Freesurf June 2023

Jake Maki Photo: Brian Bielmann

The accounts below are donating $1.00 for every “Mahalo Margarita” sold in 2023 to AccesSurf to support the disabled military veterans and teach them how to Surf. Cuervo Tradicional is matching those donations to AccesSurf.

OAHU

604 Alehouse

Beachhouse by 604

El Ranchero Kapolei & Wahiawa

Kuhio Avenue Food Hall

Lay Low

Mahi'ai Table (Foodland)

Manifest

Margarita's

Mekiko Cantina

Princess Kaiulani Hotel

Scratch Kitchen

Suzie Wong's

TJ's Sports Bar

Waikiki Beach Marriott

Westin Moana Surfrider Hotel

BIG ISLAND

Bianelli's Pizza

Hilo Hawaiian Hotel

Lava Shack

Luquin's Mexican

Pineapple's

MAUI

Bobby V's Italian Restaurant

Fleetwood's

KAUAI

Jimmy's Grill

Living Foods Restaurant

Milagro's

When it comes to surf photography nothing compares to the deep, rich colors at back-lit Pipeline. Lucas Godrey taking a brush stroke.

Photo Brent Bielmann

Treat yourself

Editorial

Editor / Publisher

Mike Latronic

Photo Director

Brian Bielmann

Art Director

John Weaver

Editorial Assistants

Kaea Latronic, Rebecca Parsons, Lowell Burton

Business Administration

Cora Sanchez (808) 2609219

Executive Assistant

Nico Rostom

West Coast Distribution & Sales

Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128

Distribution & Advertising Inquiries (808) 260-9219

Staff Shooters

Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver

Contributing Writers

Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ito, Nicole Nason

Contributing Photographers

Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan

“Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke, Mitch McEwen

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HAND-CRAFTED ALOHA IN EVERY CUP® kaicoffeehawaii.com

Photo Brian Bielmann

EDITOR'S NOTE

By Mike Latronic

As technology continues to evolve at a record pace, the way humans view and consume media has also evolved. It didn't seem all too long ago, a few decades back, that me, my mom and brother would all gather in front of the TV set to catch weekly shows like “The Wonderful World of Disney,””Get Smart,” “Star Trek,” “Mission Impossible,” or “Gilligan's Island,” to name a few. While I run the risk of seeming cheesy with my youth programming tastes, the point is that whatever it was you wanted to watch, you had to make the appointment. There were basically three major broadcast TV channels and there was no record option on the TV or cable. There was no pay-per-view, no streaming options, no YouTube and certainly nothing like Disney+, Roku, Netflix or any other modern entertainment portals. Nowadays, things are much different; my cable provider carries upwards of 500 stations or networks to choose from and, lo and behold, with a “smart” TV we all now have access to more streaming services and content than any one person can view in a lifetime.

In the reading category: paperbacks, magazines and books, while far from gone, have certainly been rivaled by audio books, podcasts, online magazines, and social media. The proliferation of media has been massive. All this points to the fact that our relationship here is significant. You picking up this magazine and me communicating as publisher via written word has become specialized - and the visual aspect makes it even more unique.

While moving pictures are vibrant and telling, when it comes to photo images, print is still king. As a majority of surfers attest, the best way to view a moment in time captured in the waves is a good double-page spread. Print kicks ass over your handheld device any day of the week.

For the main theme in this issue of Freesurf, we catch up with some of the best photogs in the biz and lay out some fun and informative conversations about photography.

Other stories include a serious sibling talent duo with Kauai’s Zoe and Oliver Zeitz. Freesurf pays homage to fallen legend China Uemura, some surf events, news, and other tidbits.

Enjoy on whatever platform you like best, but if you wanna make a collage full of epic surf images on the back of your door, then picking up a copy of Freesurf should always be your top choice.

OLIVER & ZOIE ZIETZ THE ULTIMATE SIBLING DUO

Oliver and Zoie Zietz were born on Oahu, Hawaii but relocated to Kauai when they were seven and two years old. Hailing from a family of surfers, it was only natural that the sibling duo took to the water as groms. Under the guidance of their parents and their uncle, CT surfer Sebastian Zietz, the Zietz siblings began competing in local contests. In 2022, Oliver and Zoie both took home wins in the junior’s divisions at the NSSAs in Huntington Beach, proving that they have what it takes to follow in their uncle’s footsteps and someday qualify for the Championship

Billy, Dusty, my aunt Ginger, and my cousin Hayden. It is so fun to surf with all of them and do contests with Ollie and Hayden!

FS: What have been some of your best competition results over the years?

O.Z.: Some of my best results are NSSA National Explorer Juniors 17 and under champ in 2022, third place in U18 at the USA surfing championships in 2022, and a quarterfinal finish at the Sunset Pro QS 1000 in 2022.

ZZ: Last year, I had a really good year and I won two divisions in Hawaii regionals, won a national title in NSSA, and got fourth in US Champs. I'm so stoked with my results last year but I want to do even better this year!

FS: Tell us about winning at the NSSAs.

O.Z.: The NSSA comp in Huntington Beach was super fun. Although the surf was pretty grindy (small and hard to surf), Huntington still had some great sections to do big maneuvers. It was also great to see some of my friends from California, Hawaii, and the east coast, and cheer them on during their heats.

I was super stoked to take the win, especially because my sister ended up winning on the same day. Also, it was an all-Hawaiian final and I think some of the best surfers in the world come out of Hawaii, which makes winning that much more of an achievement for me.

How did you first get into surfing?

O.Z.: When I was really young my dad would take me surfing at Waikiki on a big longboard—I instantly loved it. Since then, I’ve been getting to surf with my uncle Sebastian Zietz (Seabass) and other great surfers on Kauai, which has helped me progress to the level of surfing I'm currently at.

Z.Z.: I was born in Kailua on the island of Oahu but moved to Kauai when I was two and have grown up here ever since. I started surfing at local spots after watching my brother, dad and uncles having so much fun out there.

FS: Who in your family surfs?

Z.Z.: Surfing is a big part of my family and I have many relatives who surf such as my brother, Oliver, my dad, Uncle Seabass,

Z.Z.: We had a variation of different wave and wind conditions during the event, which made it exciting and kept me on my toes. Winning the 2022 Explorer 12 and Under division was so awesome. It was my first time winning a national title and now I want to keep them coming.

FS: Has your Uncle Sebastian been a big role model over the years?

O.Z.: Sebastian Zietz (Seabass) has helped me so much by developing my level of surfing and by taking me on awesome trips to amazing waves. Even if it’s just surfing some bad waves at home, I still learn so much each time I’m in the water with him. Three of the most important things Seabass has taught me are humility, earning it yourself, and to rip no matter how the surf is.

Story and Photos by Rebecca Parsons

Z.Z.: He has helped and motivated me a lot. Last year, he took my brother, my cousin Hayden, and I, plus a bunch of our surf friends, to the Waco wave pool for the Seabass surf camp—it was so fun!

FS: Who are some surfers that you look up to?

O.Z.: Some of the surfers I look up to most are Seabass, all my uncles, my dad, and the countless surfers I see ripping daily on Kauai—you can learn something new from anyone.

If we are talking about who I think are the best surfers in general, I would say Ethan Ewing and Mick Fanning. I like their surfing so much because they are extremely fast, powerful, and smooth.

Z.Z.: There are many surfers I look up to but my top three are Tatiana Weston-Webb because she charges, rips, and every time I surf with her, she inspires me. I also look up to Stephanie Gilmore because her style is unmatched, and she is so good it's crazy. And last but not least, Carissa Moore because she is an amazing surfer and she inspires and helps the girls.

FS: Do you two surf together a lot?

Z.Z.: We surf together a lot and it's nice because he pushes me to battle harder and take waves and I push him also by telling him to surf better (that annoys him). I love surfing with my brother, and I couldn't imagine not having him. I'm very grateful.

FS: What would you say your greatest strengths and weaknesses as a surfer?

O.Z.: As a surfer, it doesn’t matter how good you think you are at something; you can always do better and learn more. But I would say my strengths are definitely my backside rail surfing and my airs. The thing I need to work on is my frontside surfing.

Z.Z.: My strengths are good timing and rail surfing. I'm still learning and have lots to work on. I am working on barrels, front side roundhouses, and picking good waves.

FS: What are your goals looking forward?

O.Z.: I want to continue improving my surfing and work on getting stronger. Plus, I want to get over to Oahu next winter and charge some bigger surf! This summer I’ll be going to SoCal for the USA Surfing Championships and the NSSA National Championships—this will be my last year doing these.

Beyond that, I plan to surf in all the Hawaii Regional Qualifying Series events and when I feel I’m ready, qualify for the Challenger Series and work with everything I’ve got to get on the Championship Tour.

Z.Z.: I really want to win the US Champs. It's been a dream of mine and I would just love to do some of my best surfing in that contest. Another goal might be to learn to do airs, a lot of the girls are learning and it's cool to watch. I want to be the next Kauai surfer girl to make it on the tour like Tati and Gabby.

HSA STATE CHAMPIONSHIPS

After numerous weekends, dozens of heats and hours of surfing, it all comes down to this. It’s the morning of Wednesday, April 26th, and the HSA State Championships are at Ala Moana Bowls while the groms are geared up to compete. All the kids are hungry for a State title at this 4 day event and to earn a good ranking for the upcoming US Championships in Huntington Beach, California. Prior to the event, there was no promising swell on the horizon. Luckily, there was just a big enough bump where the waves formed plenty of sections for maneuvers.

At the start of the event window, the ocean brought plenty of potential surf for the Junior Men. Waves broke at 3 foot faces with occasional 4 foot sets out the back. Some of the standout competitors included Nalu Deodato and Luke Tema, whose backhand snaps generated impressive spray and earned those excellent point rides. But let's not count out other performers like Oliver Zietz and Matteus Santos, finding those little nuggets that weren’t on offer the entire event. The final heat was neck and neck between Nalu and Matteus. Nalu started off the final with an 8.57, but Matteus matched his pace by scoring an 8.50. Shortly after, Nalu got a backup score of 6.77. Throughout the rest of the heat, Matteus tries to chase down Nalu. Meanwhile, Santos is within striking distance with now a backup of a 6.10. However the score wasn’t quite enough and Nalu clinched his title with a 15.04 final heat score total.

Story and photos by Aukai Ng

Merrik Mochkatel

Luke Tema

PHOTO: KIMO LASSWELL

PHOTO: TASHA JAHRMARKT

Day 2 had unexpected downpour and a decline in the swell energy, but it didn’t stop competition. The surfers adapted to the conditions and surfed the waves to their full potential. 13 & under boys took to the stage along with the young wahine. Zal Costa absolutely ripped it on his forehand, making stylish cutbacks and almost unmakeable floaters, allowing his scoreline to go into double digits in every heat. Kai Nelson also made excellent scores, making sharp snaps on his backhand. Nelson started the division from the bottom at round two and advanced

few awarded in the event. Chesney took the win, which was her first win at the State Championships - making the victory so much sweeter. With the approach of the US Championships, Chesney now had her eyes on taking the top title for the under 14 division. Another wahine absolutely ripping was Maui’s Chrislyn Simpson Kane. Chrislyn performed at an elite level, making excellent scores in all heats. In the finals, the Maui wahine started off strong, improving her scores with every wave she caught, from a 6 to a 7 and then to an 8. Chrislyn took the win, marking another win for the Maui crew.

Surfing does come with risks at times. Competition continued for day 3 but was short lived due to a shark sighting near the competition area. Heats were in progress when a 12 foot long Tiger shark started flailing near two freesurfers in the breaks between Bowls and Rockpiles. The two surfers spotted the shark in time and were able to paddle out unscathed. Hawaiian Water Patrol did a great job by collecting all the competitors in the water via ski. Thankfully, no one was hurt in the water, but the rest of the competition was postponed until there was an all clear in the water. The event continued the following day with no sharks in sight. All the divisions were completed as scheduled. Overall, it was a very fun event for all the participants. There were ups and downs, sunny and rainy days, and some scares, but the surf was excellent and the experience was memorable. Congratulations to all of the participants at this exciting event. With States coming to a close, these Hawaii competitors now qualified for the US championships later this summer at Huntington Beach. Good luck to all the Hawaii representatives, you will make us proud.

all the way to the finals. The finals were a heavy battle between Kai and Zal. Zal started strong with the opening exchanges, earning a 6.27. However, Kai started answering back, with two solid back-to-back scores of a 5.67 and a 7.17. Zal was able to secure a backup score of a 6.23, however Zal’s heat total of a 12.50 came just short of Kai’s 12.84. It was a hard fought battle between the two and both gave an excellent performance. Maui boy Kai Nelson took the win for the 12-13 boys division, making all the Maui groms proud. The girls did equally well in their divisions. North Shore’s Chesney Guinotte was a standout for the girls 12-13. In her previous year at States, Chesney made the final but just came up short for the win. This year, she was motivated to take home the win. Starting off the event strong, Chesney threw down a 18.17 heat total for the opening round. From this point on, she never lets up. All her heat totals had excellent point rides, including a perfect 10, one of very

ree paths forged by a love of sur ng

TEAHUPO'O

Chaos, confusion, and sort of like a surf park on steroids. This swell in Tahiti did not turn out to be quite as big as everyone hoped, definitely not a code red. Although, the day before, the Tahitian police feared it would be huge and dangerous and were threatening to shut all water craft from the lineup including surfers.

Story & Photos by Brian Bielmann

Gilbert Teave-Tehuritaua

We woke to the most beautiful conditions you could get and a few XXL size waves. A handful of surfers waiting on the outside to tow and a pack of surfers waiting to paddle in. Some of the bigger waves were worthy of towing in but a lot of the surfers were towing into smaller waves which would have been super exciting if the paddlers were able to drop in late on these slabs. That was not happening. Safe to say it was very much a bummer for those surfers on the inside ledge. Also, I counted 30 skis on the inside between our boats and the wave, a few with cameras but mostly just spectators, As a tourist I can’t say anything but trying to get a photo was downright impossible with more than half of the waves being blocked by skis, boats and surfers paddling back out. The other way to go was to get a ski to shoot from and pay between $2000 and $3000 for the day. Or swim and shoot but then there’s the chance of getting run over by a ski. Getting shots at Teahupo'o is not as easy as it used to be. The surfers that scored were happy and the people swimming and on the skis had the time of their lives. We had it uncrowded for years and times have changed, but not the waves.

Nathan Florence

The next day we expected a repeat performance of the day before but woke to a dark and ominous sky with torrential downpour. The end of the road is next to the river coming from the waterfall, which had sent a crazy amount of water down into the parking lot. It sent cars out into the ocean while many houses were flooded and residents lost everything, locals said they had not seen anything like it in 60 years. It was very sad for the Tahitian families and surfers were quick to try to get the word out to the rest of the world through their social media to send help to all those in need. In the end Teahupo'o is still there and waiting for the next big swell.

Makana Pang

VISUAL BUTTER

Four individual shooters, all with their own style and philosophy about their life as surf photographers. All sharing a deep love for the ocean and the breaking waves. A short peek into how their brain works and what they love about their craft.

BRIAN BIELMANN

After all these years of shooting surf I still cherish it. Although there are times when I’m just going through the motions, it can still be really productive. I mean, sometimes just simply documenting is the best way to go about it. You add your own style to it but at the end of the day it’s really just capturing the action as it happens.

I try, as probably most photographers do, (good photographers that is), to think outside the box. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t, but as long as you're going somewhere new and creative it’s eventually worth it. If I get really bored or if the waves are not showing up, I’ll try anything. I’ve shot lots of mermaids. I prefer mermaids to mermen and lately I’ve been taking pictures of angels with some wings I purchased on the internet from Russia…they look so damn real. The point is, continue to push the borders, try to stay on the edge and most importantly have fun. I’m on year 44 of being a surf photographer and as long as I can keep swimming at Pipeline I can keep my motivation. I forget how old I am and prefer to pay attention to how young I am.

Dre. Angels on the seven miles of heaven.

Photo Makana Potter

Jack Robinson

Never been a fan of the Gold Coast. All the years I had to go there for the WCT it was my least favorite event on tour. Hot, sand all over everything, rainy, bad waves, just get me outta here. When West OZ was winding down I was getting pressured from all angles to come to the Gold Coast. Initially I dug my heels in with those bad memories of the past. I’m at a point in my life now where I really like to say yes to everything and just roll with whatever happens. I decided to come check out Coolangatta for the week with low expectations and not work a ton. Mostly vacation but shooting a bit as well to appease my violent work habits. It was such a beautiful combination. I would shoot for a few hours then pack it in to surf, swim, bike around town and hang with friends. Realized that this place is quite magical in that regard. Didn’t shoot a lot of photos but did get a few nice images.

Samuel Pupo

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Mahalo for Drinking Responsibly. ©2023 Kona Brewing Hawaii Photo: Mike Latronic

Coconut Willie

DOOMA PHOTOS

I live a simple stress-free lifestyle that enables me to be there taking photos when the waves are firing and living an 8 minute drive to Honolua Bay helps. When shooting photos I prefer to be alone - it's kinda my happy place when I know waves are gonna be firing I pack a cooler and hang there shooting photos all day til the sun goes down. I got my zones I shoot from that are away from everyone they are a little tricky to access so that keeps them empty and the angles are excellent. When a friend gets barreled and I get the photos I get just as stoked as the surfer even if it is someone I don’t know and I’ll find that person and get them their photos.

Highlights of my surfing photography are getting the covers of Surfer and Surfing magazines, photographing Peahi, shooting the rare Ma’alaea when she did her thing and was 6-8 ft with 10fters and all time epic last summer . I was there from sun up to sundown both days. Being on the back of the ski with Ty and his dad Chris for the Peahi contest they called off . It got too big but we stayed. Ty borrowed Kai Lenny’s tow board and Darrick Doerner towed Ty into a legit 25 footer. Ty pulled into the barrel and got spit out and I got to photograph it all. That was a special moment.

Last few winters have been pretty average I have been hearing alot of talk about next winter being a strong El Nino so that means Maui is gonna have a great winter and I’ll probably take 40,000 photos all winter LoL.

Liam Obrien

Photography has been a lifelong pursuit for me. I began at an early age in my teens and fell in love with the whole process. I got my first camera, a Canon Ae-1 when I was 13 from my mom. Soon I built a black and white darkroom where I would make all my own prints and even roll my own film. Photography was a wide open door into a world of possible avenues and lifestyles to pursue, and it still is today. That really one of the things I love so much about it. There are so many paths you can take from shooting stills or into the world of moving pictures and cinema and every thing in between. Sports, fashion , landscape , architecture, street photography, still life…. The list goes on and on. You get the idea.

The key element for me is to shoot what you are passionate about. It's the only reason I still shoot , its one of my passions. I think as a photographer you need to have that passion directed at a certain subject matter and specialize in that. For me it was the 3 S’s ; Surf, Snow and Skate that drew me in. I had my first tiny photo published in Surfer Mag when I was 16 and was on the moon when I got a check for $10! The shot was of a friend of mine back in Rhode Island where I grew up and more than the joy of getting paid $10 was the stoke I felt for capturing my friend and seeing how stoked he was when he saw the shot. I think that’s still my favorite thing. Sharing what I capture through my lens with the person in the photo, preserving a split second in time of them doing what they love after they have often committed a lifetime to developing the skills to get there.

The world around us just keeps moving faster and faster. Technology has sped it all up and I feel like it can be easy to lose touch and fall out of living in the moment. Photography freezes those fleeting moments , and often shows us things that we didn’t even notice were there in the first place. It gives us an ability to travel backwards in time in our minds and relive some of the magic that make life what it is. A good photo can take you back to a moment in time , full of sounds , smells, feelings, thoughts and color. I love that time capsule aspect of photography.

Photography is a lot like other art forms where our inspiration to create changes with a pace that can keep up with the changing modern world. Like a good song , a good photograph can capture an essence or something new that is part of the modern cultural fabric, which allows for fresh and new ideas based on change. A lot of good songs and great photos have been taken but I believe there is always room for more. Pipeline itself is a great example of this , with its ever changing faces and moods, coupled with the evolving talent of the surfers that charge it, beautiful and powerful moments in surf photography still approach like a set on the horizon. I’m grateful that photography helps me to look a the world in awe and see beauty in the minute details. The road in front of the lens is is infinite, and I plan to travel this road for my lifetime.

Jamie O'Brien

ORIGINAL GANGSTERS

THE HISTORY OF SURF PHOTOGRAPHY

By Rebecca Parsons

Most of what we know about surfing is thanks to surf photography. While many of us dream of travelling the globe in search of the perfect wave, it is a reality only for a select few. For most, the only exposure they have to the world’s best waves is through photos and videos online and in magazines.

The first surf photo in history dates back to the 1890s. The photographer is unknown, but the photograph depicts a surfer on the beach in Waikiki—the image currently resides at the Bishop Museum in Honolulu. It wasn’t until the 1930s that surf photography truly took off.

Tom Blake is a name that forever changed not only surf photography but surfing as a whole. He revolutionized surfboard design by using lightweight materials, he was the first person to ever put a fin on a surfboard, he invented the wind surfer, and he invented the first water housing. The water housing had a profound impact on surf photography, allowing photographers to capture images from the surfer’s perspective in the water. In 1931, he landed a spread in the Los Angeles Times. In 1935, Blake had his first spread in National Geographic.

Inspired by Blake’s images, John Heath ‘Doc’ Ball decided to dedicate his life to documenting surfing and surf culture. A dentist, he traded dental work for a better camera and in 1937, he built a “water box” (aka a wooden box with a brass handle) to house his Graflex camera. He shot 3" x 4” film and was constantly experimenting with new angles and techniques, laying the foundation for future surf photographers.

Fast forward to the 60s and surfing had become widespread. The first surf magazines came out and surf films and music were becoming common. The era saw photographers like Don James, John Severson (founder of SURFER), Ron Church, The Endless Summer creator Bruce Brown and Leroy Grannis perfecting their craft with new, lightweight 35 mm SLR cameras. One of the most well-known photographers of the time was Ron Stoner, who worked for SURFER, landing the cover shot six issues in a row thanks to his impressive color photographs.

A solitary Hawaiian surfer named Charles Kauha, who sported a malo while holding a Alaia surfboard. In 1898, Frank Davey captured several photographs of Kauha in various positions, but none of them show him surfing.

An underwater portrait, and the first example of such a thing in photographic history. Taken in the 1890s (most likely 1899) by biologist and photography pioneer Louis Boutan, it depicts Boutan’s Romanian colleague Emil Racovitza holding up a sign that reads “Photographie Sous Marine,” or “Underwater Photography.”

In the 70s professional surfing made its debut and Art Brewer and Jeff Divine were at the forefront of capturing it. Warren Bolster’s roots stemmed from documenting skateboarding, but in 1978 he moved to Hawaii and began shooting surf. He revolutionized surf photography by shooting the North Shore from a helicopter, he created remote-control board mounted cameras, and shot half in/half out of the water shots with a large, custom-made dome.

The 80s saw camera technology improve in leaps and bounds. Cannon released their A-1, the first SLR camera in the late 70s, and their manual focus 800 mm lens in 1981, which was the top long lens pick for surf photographers for the next decade. Standout photographers included Don King, who was the first heavy water photographer to shoot with a wide angle, and Larry Moore, who worked as a photo editor for Surfing Magazine and documented high performance surfing in California. Moore, aka Flame, also pioneered the pole cam. Another noteworthy photographer was Australian photographer Paul Sergeant, who was one of the first photojournalists.

In 1981, Pentax released its first autofocus SLR. In 1987, Canon launched its EOS system. By 1988, the 600 mm lens was the industry standard and in 1989, the EOS1 pro camera body came out. The new technology made capturing good images attainable for the masses, if you could afford the equipment.

The 90s saw little by way of technological advancements, but the surf industry was booming, and photographers were in high demand. Names like Brian Bielmann, Hank, Ted Grambeau, Sean Davey and Chris Van Lennep dominated the scene, transporting homebodies to surf breaks across the globe.

In 1990, Photoshop v1.0 made its debut, further changing the industry. In 1991, Kodak released the first commercial digital camera priced at a whopping $20,000. Some photographers embraced digital, while others were committed to the craft of traditional film. Heavy water photographers continued to push the limits, swimming in massive waves in the name of getting the shot.

These days, surfers are shot from all angles: via the sky, the water, or even from a camera in the surfer’s hand or mounted on the front of his or her board. With each passing year, the skills of surfers continue to progress in tandem with the photographers. We are lucky enough to reap the benefits of their incredible talent.

John Severson ‘at work’ in the 1960s

FOR THE LONG RIDE...

FIND

GERRY LOPEZ MR. PIPELINE

Gabriel Medina and Carissa Moore Win Margaret River Pro

MARGARET RIVER, Western Australia, Australia (Friday, April 28, 2023) – Gabriel Medina (BRA) and Carissa Moore (HAW) won the Western Australia Margaret River Pro, Stop No. 5 on the World Surf League (WSL) 2023 Championship Tour (CT), today in solid four-to-six-foot surf at Main Break. With their big wins today, Moore and Medina made significant moves up the rankings and now sit at World No. 2 and No. 7, respectively, on the rankings.

The Mid-season Cut narrowed the field to only the Top 22 men and Top 10 women, who will continue competing through the back half of the 2023 CT season. After earning a runner-up finish here at Margaret River, Tyler Wright (AUS) will wear the yellow Leader jersey going into Stop No. 6, the Surf Ranch Pro. Joao Chianca (BRA) held onto the ranking’s lead with his Semifinal finish today and stays in

the top spot on the rankings. Competitors will now shift their focus to making the Final 5 to be able to compete at the WSL Rip Curl Finals and have a shot at the 2023 World Title.

Gabriel Medina Wins First CT Event Since 2021

Gabriel Medina (BRA) reminded everyone why he’s a three-time World Champion today, taking a dominant win over Griffin Colapinto (USA) in the Final with the highest heat total of the day, a 17.50 (out of possible 20), which included a nearperfect 9.50 (out of possible 10). Medina built momentum throughout the event, taking down current World Champion Filipe Toledo (BRA) in the Quarterfinals and current World No. 1 Joao Chianca (BRA) in the Semifinals.

This marks Medina’s 17th CT career event win and his first ever at Margaret River. After taking a break in the first half of the 2022 season and having a slow start this season, there is no doubt Medina has come back with force.

“It’s pretty special to win here,” said Medina. “It’s a venue where I’ve struggled to make heats. It felt good to have good waves and get the win. I’m feeling better now just feeling like I’m in the rhythm again. Griff (Colapinto) and I always have good battles. I love competing against the guys, and that’s what we’re here for. It’s a really hard wave to surf, and I’m happy with my improvement.”

Medina and Colapinto started the Final with an explosive back-to-back exchange. Colapinto got the better of Medina, earning an excellent 8.17 (out of a

Carissa Moore and Gabriel Medina.

Photo by Aaron Hughes/WSL

BOARD STORIES

Board Stories can be seen in Hawai'i on Spectrum OC16 on Ch. 16/1016 and Spectrum Surf Channel Ch. 20/1020. Spectrum OC16’s live stream is available on oc16.tv and the Spectrum TV app (to Spectrum customers in Hawai'i only), and nationally to any Spectrum customer on the Spectrum News mobile app and CTV app on Roku and Apple TV.

6 DAYS A WEEK!

Hosts Pua DeSoto and Mike Latronic

possible 10). But Colapinto struggled to find a backup score for the remainder of the heat. Meanwhile, Medina was in rhythm with the ocean, throwing his backhand attack at the large Main Break walls. His critical turns right in the pocket earned him two excellent scores, and the event win. Medina’s win marks the first time a goofy-foot man has won Margaret River, CT in 33 years.

Carissa Moore Earns 27th CT Victory

Carissa Moore (HAW) earned her second event win of the season and her 27th overall CT career win today at Main Break. The fivetime World Champion now has a third Margaret River win to her name after taking down two-time World Champion Tyler Wright (AUS) in the Finals. Now, Moore hopes to overtake Wright, who currently holds the World No. 1 position, as she’s in striking distance at No.2.

“It was a crazy week and a crazy month being away from home, it’s a roller coaster,” said Moore. “Coming here, the doubts were starting to creep in. But, I really felt the love and the joy from this community and I want to say thank you because I couldn’t have done it without that good energy. I didn’t see Tyler’s (Wright) wave so I thought I might have wasted my opportunity, but I just thought it’s up to the universe at this point.”

The women’s Final was a battle of two World Champions and former Margaret River Pro event winners. After a slow start, Moore took the lead by showcasing her trademark wrapping carves to post a 6.10. Wright had one more opportunity right before the horn but mistimed the end section and the score came up short.

For highlights from Finals Day at the Western Australia Margaret River Pro, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

Carissa Moore. Photo by Aaron Hughes/WSL

ROY “CHINA” UEMURA

When some people leave this planet, they leave behind family and friends. When others depart, they leave a legacy in their wake. Roy Uemura, aka Uncle China, left both.

Uncle China was a Waikiki beach boy and is known for his contributions to women’s surfing, work with the keiki, and influencing the sport of longboard surfing. He founded both the Wahine Surfing Classic and the China Uemura Longboard Surfing Classic, which he ran for 33 years. Both contests take place annually at Kuhio Beach in Waikiki and have raised over $200,000 for nonprofits, including the American Diabetes Association and Kapiolani Medical Center’s Sex Abuse Treatment Center.

In the 1970s, Uncle China became a pro surfer and went on to become a world longboard champion. He regularly turned heads in the lineup and was always excited to share the sport with the keiki. After years of battling drug and alcohol addiction, Uncle China had a heart for troubled youth and wholeheartedly believed in giving them a second chance.

"Surfing was something that saved his life, you know, kept him off the streets [and] away from all the bad stuff," Kekoa Uemura told KITV4. "So he was able to relate to a lot of people on that level, and help them in the water. Start surfing and you surfing is kind of [like] coming to therapy."

In 2013, Uncle China was inducted into the Hawaii Watermen Hall of Fame for his accomplishments in surfing and standup paddling, in addition to all he did for the sport.

During the last decade of his life, Uncle China began having health issues. In 2012, he had open heart surgery after blacking out at one of his contests. After he recovered, he returned to teaching and regularly offered free standup paddle lessons at Ala Moana Regional Park.

“I remember at one time he was overweight,” Jim Fulton, president of Duke’s OceanFest told the Star Advertiser. “He discovered stand-up paddling, and it was one of those lifesaving things that allowed him to surf again.”

In November of 2022, Uncle China slipped and fell in his home. The accident required emergency surgery and left him almost entirely paralyzed from the neck down. On January 6th, at the age of 68, Uncle China passed away in his home surrounded by family and friends.

“It was one hell of a ride pops,” his family posted on the China Uemura Surfing Foundation Instagram page. “All the stories of you in your wild days, and all the love you poured into the community. Over the last month it’s really put into perspective how many people you have impacted. Rest easy. We love you and so will all the people you’ve reached with your kindness. Mahalo everyone for your prayers, and kind messages. Dad’s in a better place, no pain, no sadness, only happiness.”

RIP Uncle China.

Roy Uemura. Photo Keoki

Moku Rider Johnny the Ripper Photo @danitoro312

“Uncle China had a deep passion for surfing and the aloha spirit of embodying the ocean and the cultivating of Hawaiian style surfing and gathering.” -Rochelle

Ballard

“Uncle China not only provided a platform for women’s professional surfing in Hawaii, he cultivated a space for women empowerment. I wholeheartedly believe that my friends and I are so supportive of each other because we were surrounded by supportive men and women our whole lives, who left the competition in the water and cheered on anyone and everyone who won! When one wins, we all win. That’s the motto my friends and I live by and something we’re passing along to the next generation—we got that from Uncle China!” -Malia

Kaeleopaa

“Uncle China’s contribution to the surfing community will never be forgotten. He really shone a light on women’s surfing with his wahine contest, which opened so many doors for me and many others. I will forever be grateful to him.” -Jenny

Lee

“I knew Uncle China and looked up to him a lot as a child growing up in Waikiki and doing all the surf contests. One thing that really stood out to me is that he always told us to love your parents. He always said, ‘Make sure you guys thank your parents. When you go home, tell your mom and dad that you love them.’” -Kaniela

Stewart

“Uncle China was so generous and loving. He was a pillar in the longboarding community. If it weren’t for his contests and generosity, a lot of us longboarders wouldn’t have a career. I’ve met my best friends at his contests and hopefully we (the surf community) can do right by him and his legacy.” -Megan

Godinez

“Uncle China was a dad to us all and guided us to be our best. I grew up with his beautiful kids and learned a lot in the golden days of Waikiki. He helped me from amateur to pro career. He was a leader, a character, and a champion surfer. He had the fastest feet in the game, walking the board back and forth. He had an amazing forehand open face carve. He comes from the days of ultimate respect and now he is part of the surf gods watching over all of us out there in the surf.” -Ezra

Rodrigues

“Uncle China was an original classic who spoke strength into the hearts of the young girls in Waikiki. He spoke to them as Hawaiian princesses that would one day rule the ocean, but not with eloquent speech, with a rugged-pidgin-broken English language that needed interpretation for an outsider. He instilled a belief that they were the future. And that didn’t mean an award, trophy, or title (well that too), he wanted them to know who they were in their own skin—warrior princesses from Hawaii, from Waikiki. Until we meet again; love you.” -Tammy

Moniz

“There is so much that can be said about [Uncle China]. He truly was community minded, helping raise funds for so many organizations throughout Hawaii. Uncle China elevated and supported Hawaiian longboarding like no other, helping jumpstart countless surfing careers through his surf contests in Waikiki. When there were few to zero surfing events for women, he created a Wahine Surf Contest that included all ages, from a little girls division to a senior women’s division. I will always admire Uncle China’s dedication to the community, especially his steadfast encouragement of Hawaii’s keiki to excel in their education and continue to participate in ocean activities. Mahalo nui Uncle China.” -Geodee

Clark

“Uncle China was close to my dad. I grew up with his daughter, Kanoe, and Kekoa, his son. My first longboard contest was the China Uemura Longboard Surfing Classic in 1986. I was nine years old at the time and the only age division I could enter was the 29 & under division—back then there were zero opportunities to surf longboard contests against my peers. The waves were small that year, so I did really well against all the adults and made it all the way to the semifinals. Uncle China took notice and during the trophy ceremony, he made a special award for me that year. He called me on stage and presented me with a brand-new Blue Hawaii mini tanker with red and black tiger striped rails. It was probably the first brand new board I ever got; it was unforgettable for me. Uncle China was aware of how good I was at surfing. He made me feel good and was one of the sparks in my life that made me want to be a great surfer myself—an influence that reminds me today to stay humble and that it’s my turn to be an ‘uncle.’”

-Duane DeSoto

“I had the privilege of growing up celebrating and competing in Uncle China’s contest; it was the best contest during the summer. t was more like a big family gathering—every year he ran his contest families from across the island would come to Waikiki to hang, surf, and just have a good time with one another. Uncle China has paved the way for women’s surfing in Hawaii and given so many girls from Hawaii (including me) such a healthy platform to take surfing to the next step. He strongly believed in our surfing, and by him believing in us, so did we. Uncle China played such a big role in my surfing, and I can’t thank him enough. He was also just the kindest man ever, always so caring and loving towards others and always put others first. He was the true meaning of the aloha spirit. Mahalo Uncle China.” -Kelis

Kaleopaa

"Uncle China's contest was one that I looked forward to every year. It was a fundamental part of my development as a person and surfer. I am deeply grateful for his belief in women's surfing and the platform he gave us to grow and shine. His contribution to our community will never be forgotten and his legacy will live on through all those he impacted and shared his aloha with."

-Carissa Moore

The Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach concluded with two Australians claiming the win and ringing the bell. Tyler Wright defeated world number one Molly Picklum to ring the bell for the second year in a row. Ethan Ewing took down Ryan Callinan—his win occurred 40 years after his mom won at Bells in 1983.

On April 21, a USA Bodysurfing event was scheduled to take place at Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz, California for the first time in history. Unfortunately, the contest was cancelled due to lack of waves.

On Friday, April 27, the HSA State Championships were taking place at Ala Moana Bowls when an aggressive shark was sighted in the area, putting the contest on hold.

The HSA state championships concluded in early May. Here are the winners: Kea Moody (boys shortboard 11 & under), Kai Nelson (boys shortboard 12-13), Tema Hannemann (boys shortboard 14-15), Nalu Deodata (junior men’s shortboard 16-17), Leah Turner (girls shortboard 11 & under), Chesney Guinotte (girls shortboard 12-13), Chrislyn Simpson Kane (girls shortboard 12-13), Isla Sexton (junior women shortboard 16-17), and Luke Tema (open men shortboard).

Jack Robinson pulled out of the Margaret River Pro, his homebreak contest, due to a knee injury sustained at Bells Beach.

On April 28,

Tom Lowe was surfing a massive Teahupo’o swell when he got thrown over the falls and hit the reef. He broke five ribs and punctured a lung—Lowe has a long road to recovery ahead of him.

The Byron Shire Council in New South Wales, passed a new law, making it illegal to surf without a leash in Byron Bay. Violators will be charged a $75 fine, with a maximum penalty of up to $1,100.

After the conclusion of the Margaret River Pro, the result are officially in. These are the women who made the mid-season cut: Tyler Wright, Caity Simmers, Molly Picklum, Carissa Moore, Caroline Marks, Stephanie Gilmore, Tatiana Weston-Webb, Lakey Peterson, Bettylou Sakura Johnson, and Gabriela Bryan. These are the men who made the cut: João Chianca, Jack Robinson, Filipe Toledo, Ethan Ewing, Griffin Colapinto, Ryan Callinan, John John Florence, Yago Dora, Leonardo Fioravanti, Caio Ibelli, Connor O’Leary, Callum Robson, Gabriel Medina, Jordy Smith, Matthew Mcgillivray, Italo Ferreira, Liam O’Brien, Rio Waida, Kanoa Igarashi, Barron Mamiya, Seth Moniz, and Ian Gentil.

The WSL granted Kelly Slater and Johanne Defay the wildcard spots for the 2023/2024 season, allowing them to compete in the remainder of the season’s events as well as entry into the first half of the 2024 season. Brisa Hennessy and Miguel Pupo were given the 2024 season wildcards, which will also automatically enter them into the CT events for the first half of 2024.

Zeke Lau left his long-time sponsor Quiksilver and announced his new sponsor: AVVA. The brand was founded by Lau’s friend, Keko Cazimero. According to the company’s website, “AVVA is more than a brand, it’s a philosophy of honoring the global roots connecting unique cultures, individuals, and the natural world throughout the many facets of life.”

The inaugural Dana Point Film Festival took place in Dana Point, California from May 4-7. The festival included over 40 hours of documentary films about the ocean, marine life, and human interaction with the ocean.

The Mexi Log Fest was held in Guerrero, Mexico from April 2229. The world’s best longboarders gathered to compete. Oahu’s Sophia Culhane and Kai Sallas walked away victorious.

The classic film The Endless Summer celebrated its 60th anniversary. There was a special showing at Salt Creek Beach in Dana Point, California as part of the Dana Point Film Festival. The original photograph for the film poster was staged at Salt Creek.

Mokulele Surf Team Rider

Diego Ferri

Photo Aukai Ng

TSUNAMI BURGER WITH FRIES

Hale Kope (Coffee Shop) 730am - 430pm

Kikoni (Bar) 10am - 430pm, Thursday's Till 6pm

Wahi Aina (Grill) 10am - 430pm

Wailele (Shave Ice and Local Snack Shop) 10am - 4pm

Open Kitchen is Located in Waimea Valley, a Branch of Ke Nui Kitchen

Kama'aina Discounts | Pau Hana Thursday's Hale Kope Loyalty Card, Purchase 7 Coffees Get One Free

Open Daily

IG: Open Kitchen Oahu Openkitchenoahu.com (808) 376-4135

Volcom launched a swimwear and apparel collection in partnership with Oahu’s Coco Ho. The collection was “designed for the ultimate beach to city lifestyle.” The collection includes swimwear, sweatshirts, shirts, shorts, sarongs, and more.

AccessSurf hosted its annual Hawaii Adaptive Surf Championship from May 8-May 12 at Queens on Oahu. The event was also the first stop of the Adaptive Surfing World Tour in partnership with the Association of Adaptive Surfing Professionals (AASP). 104 adaptive athletes from 18 countries gathered to compete in 17 qualifying divisions.

A new exhibit debuted at the California Surfing Museum in San Diego, California. The new exhibit is centered around exploring the science behind the sport. The multi-media exhibit uses charts, diagrams, photographs, art, and video monitors to explain the energy, tides, types of surf breaks and conditions and custodianship of the oceans, the California Surf Museum said in a release.

LAST LOOK

As crowded as Teahupo’o gets, there’s always the huge empty wave that allows us to do some serious mind surfing.

Photo Brian Bielmann

fortune favors the brave.

matahi drollet

kumbaya special

teahupo’o, Tahiti