Freesurf August 2023

Jack Ho Photo Matty Leong

The accounts below are donating $1.00 for every “Mahalo Margarita” sold in 2023 to AccesSurf to support the disabled military veterans and teach them how to Surf. Cuervo Tradicional is matching those donations to AccesSurf.

OAHU

604 Alehouse

Beachhouse by 604

El Ranchero Kapolei & Wahiawa

Kuhio Avenue Food Hall

Lay Low

Mahi'ai Table (Foodland)

Manifest

Margarita's

Mekiko Cantina

Princess Kaiulani Hotel

Scratch Kitchen

Suzie Wong's

TJ's Sports Bar

Waikiki Beach Marriott

Westin Moana Surfrider Hotel

BIG ISLAND

Bianelli's Pizza

Hilo Hawaiian Hotel

Lava Shack

Luquin's Mexican

Pineapple's

MAUI

Bobby V's Italian Restaurant

Fleetwood's

KAUAI

Jimmy's Grill

Living Foods Restaurant

Milagro's

FREE PARKING

Kahi Pacarro harnessing swell energy outside of Waikiki.

Photo Matty Leong

Editorial Editor / Publisher

Mike Latronic

Photo Director

Brian Bielmann

Art Director

John Weaver

Editorial Assistants

Kaea Latronic, Rebecca Parsons, Lowell Burton

Business Administration

Cora Sanchez (808) 260-9219

Executive Assistant

Renata Malyshev

Marketing Associate

Andrea Crawley

West Coast Distribution & Sales

Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128

Distribution & Advertising Inquiries (808) 260-9219

Staff Shooters

Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver

Contributing Writers

Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Nicole Nason

Contributing Photographers

Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke, Mitch McEwen

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Kahi Pacarro Photo Matty Leong

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Big Wave is a lighter-bodied golden ale with a tropical hop aroma and flavor—smooth, easy drinking, and refreshing. The use of caramel malt contributes to the golden hue of this beer, and our special blend of hops provides a bright, quenching finish that makes it a struggle to not grab another one.

Mahalo for Drinking Responsibly. ©2023 Kona Brewing Hawaii Photo: Mike Latronic

EDITOR'S NOTE

By Mike Latronic

Was there ever a more inspiring feeling of freedom than the free surfing experience in the ocean? If you have picked up this piece of surfing media then my guess is you can relate.

The ocean doesn’t care where you come from or how you got to the surf spot you're at. The ocean isnt bothered if you are goofy footed or regular. There’s no special favors for what your beliefs and practices are or ethnic background, sexual orientation, or religious dynamic might be. The ocean and ocean waves and gravity in general are unmoved by human circumstances. There is zero discrimination for tube rides, powder days, vert ramps or wipeouts or any other aspect of the experiences found boardriding.

If you are one of the relatively few humans who chase waves and gravity for life, you are just another hitchhiker on Mother Nature's energy.

Humans and mammals that play in the ocean and harness gravity are by all accounts numerically, perceptively, athletically, different. We are emotionally attached to dancing with gravity and gliding and harnessing all that energy. Surfing, waveriders and boardriders in general are a minority.

Welcome to the Freesurf crossover edition - a celebration of variety. As you can see by our somewhat alien front cover of a foil boarder in action, we have decided to treat our loyal audience to a healthy mix of boardsport goulash. There’s several ways to slice a turkey and many more ways to ride a wave.

There’s no singular recipe that brings joy to the human heart when it comes to gliding on a board. Whatever type of board is ridden, we all seem to be chasing that wonderful sensation of gravity and inertia. While the equipment, field of play, physical requirements and orientations may differ, the boardriders' action is similar. You might say that we all exist in the same family. If boardsports are the “family” and “watersports” are the “genus” then surfing, snowboarding, foil boarding and other boardsports would be different “species.” I did a book report on Darwinism when I was a young teen. Go figure.

In the forthcoming pages we present a great cross section of our entire boardsports kingdom! Touching upon many of the different disciplines, we take a deep dive into one of the newest and fastest growing sports that is foil boarding. The learning curve is tough but the guys and girls who do it well literally make it look easy. To see it is somewhat miraculous, it's like a magic carpet ride. Training regimen for the Silver Surfer.

Look inside and find some newsy items, a photographer profile with Maui’s Nick Ricca, “Stuff We Like,” music notes with Kai Lenny, Longboarding at Moku’s waikiki event and groms at NSSA in HB. Sadly there’s a tribute to fallen surf icon Mikala Jones. A family man and friend to so many, Jones' story is of humility, kindness, talent and art and we will be celebrating his life more in depth in the very next edition. Rest in Peace Mikala. Show all those Silver Surfers how it's done up there!

Jack Ho and Nick Kipule. Photo Matty Leong

THE EVOLUTION OF BOARD SPORTS

By Rebecca Parsons

Board sports have a long and storied history dating back to the Ancient Polynesians as early as the 12th century. The Polynesians eventually brought surfing to the Hawaiian Islands and by the late 1800s, modern board sports were born.

SURFING

Originally referred to as heʻe nalu or “wave sliding,” surfing was an integral part of the Hawaiian lifestyle. For the Hawaiians, surfing and the shaping of boards was a spiritual and religious practice. In the early 1900s, surfing was put on the map by Olympic swimmer Duke Kahanamoku as he travelled the world, demonstrating his surfing skills. Tourists began flocking to Waikiki, eager to try the sport. To this day, Duke is regarded as the father of modern surfing.

Originally, there were three different surfboard shapes: ʻolo, kikoʻo, and the alaia. Today, while there are many different shapes and models, the two main categories of surfboards are shortboards.

BODYBOARDING

Bodyboarding originated from the early style of surfing on one’s belly. The early Polynesians traditionally rode alaia boards on their stomachs, knees, or feet. In 1971, Tom Morey shaped the world’s first bodyboard and named it “Boogie,” a nod to the popular 1940s dance music. In 1973, Morey Boogie was founded and in 1976, the first Morey Boogie contest was held in Carlsbad, California.

SKIMBOARDING

The origins of skimboarding date by to the 1920s, when Laguna Beach lifeguards wanted a way to easily slide across the water. At the time, it was called skidboarding. But it wasn’t until the 1960s, when a miniature surfboard style design was released, that the sport became more commonplace. In 1976, Tex Haines and Peter Prietto founded Victoria Skimboards and the sport’s name was officially changed to skimboarding. By the 1990s, skimboarding was popular worldwide.

KNEEBOARDING

Kneeboarding first originated in southern California, as an alternative to water skiing and barefooting. The exact origins are unclear, but kneeboarding is believed to have been invented in the 1950s or 1960s. In 1972, surfer Bud Hulst and skier Mike Murphy collaborated to create the Knee Ski, the first fiberglass kneeboard. The following year, John Taylor invented Glide Slide, a blow-molded plastic shell filled with foam that gained widespread popularity. In the early 1980s, the International Kneeboard Association was founded.

Mike Stewart. One of the pioneers of the Boogieboard at Pipeline. Photo Brian Bielmann

original since 1962

FOILING

Although the modern hydrofoil is relatively new, Enrico Forlanini designed the first hydrofoil boat in 1906. In the 1950s, the first jet-powered hydrofoil watercraft was built. In 1973, Mike Murphy and Bud Holds created the hydrofoil kneeboard. In 1979, Joop Nederpelt, invented the first windsurf hydrofoil and in 1984, Bob Woolley invented the first sit-down hydrofoil. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Laird Hamilton began experimenting with attaching hydrofoils to surfboards and in 2003, he popularized hydrofoiling when he appeared doing it in the film Step Into Liquid. In 2004, Mango Carafino created the first hydrofoil for a kiteboard and in 2016, impressive footage of Kai Lenny hydrofoiling in Hawai'i was released. In 2017, Lift Foils made the world’s first eFoil commercially available.

Laird Hamilton. PhotoTom Servais

Kai Lenny, 8 years old. Photo JD Photo fairy

SNOWBOARDING

In the mid-1960s a surfer named Sherman Poppen decided to bring surfing to the snow and invented a surfboard specifically designed for the snow. He named the board the Snurfer and between 1956 and 1975, over a million boards were sold. In 1970, an east coast surfer named Dimitrije Milovich started manufacturing boards inspired by the current shortboard surfboards, incorporating steel edges, laminated fiberglass, nylon straps, and gravel for traction. His company, Winterstick, is regarded as the first snowboard company.

In the late 1970s, 23-year-old Jake Burton Carpenter added footstraps and fins to his Snurfer. Around the same time, skateboarding champion Tom Sims began producing skateboards. Snowboard competitions first began popping up in the early 1980s.

WINDSURFING

Windsurfing was first invented by Newman Darby in 1948 when he mounted a handheld sail and rig to a universal joint to control a small catamaran. In 1970, the first patent for a sailboard was granted to sailor Jim Drake and surfer/skier Hoyle Schweitzer—they named their design the windsurfer. In the early 1970s, Schweitzer began mass producing polyethylene sailboards and the sport exploded in Europe. The first world championships were held in 1973 and windsurfing became a part of the Olympics in 1984 for men and 1992 for women.

Keoni Watson Photo Mike Latronic

Robbie Naish Photo Tom Servais

PHOTO: LARRY COLE

PHOTO: DON AUGUST

SKATEBOARDING

In the 1950s, surfers wanted to find a way to transfer the feeling of surfing onto the pavement. In California and Hawai'i, surfers attached metal wheels and bearings to shorter surfboards. By the late 1950s, the toy industry caught wind of the invention and in 1959, Roller Derby released the first official skateboard. In the following years, skateboarding gained popularity and transitioned from toys to sporting equipment and in 1962, Val Surf, a surf shop in Hermosa Beach, sold the very first self-produced skateboards. In 1963, the first skate contest was held in Hermosa Beach.

HANDBOARDING

The handboard or handplane was first produced by an Australia company in the 1960s, to help body surfers improve their speed, lift, and control. By the 1990s, many new manufacturers began making handplanes, with many of the new models being created from foam as opposed to the traditional wood.

WAKEBOARDING

Although water skiing first made its debut in the 1920s, it wasn’t until the 1980s that wakeboarding first appeared. Water skiers were experimenting with different ways to ride behind the boat when they stumbled upon wakeboarding, which they called “skurfing.” The first modern wakeboards were manufactured by Hyperlite in 1991.

TOW-IN SURFING

While the idea of tow-in surfing had been tossed around, it was popularized in the mid-1990s by Laird Hamilton, Buzzy Kerbox, and Dave Kalama, among others. The new style of surfing was used as a strategy to successfully get into oversized waves or waves where positioning is especially important.

Kai Lenny , Maui. Photo Tom Servais

STANDUP PADDLEBOARDING

Although standup paddling gained popularity in more recent years, modern SUP first started in Waikiki in the 1940s when local surf John Ah Choy got too old to get up and down on his board and instead stood up on his board with a paddle. In 2011, 1.2 million people tried SUP for the first time. By 2013, standup paddling was regarded as the most popular sport in the world.

KITESURFING

In the 19th century, George Pocock first patented a traction system where he used kites to pull cars and boats in the direction of the wind. In 1903, Samuel Cody crossed the English Channel using a kite. And in 1977, Gijsbertus Adrianus combined a kite and surfboard and patented his idea—to this day he is regarded as the father of kitesurfing. In 1984, brothers Dominique and Bruno Legaignoux set out to create a kite that could launch from the water. In 1987, they acquired the first patent for the first kite that could take off from the water.

Laird Hamilton Photo Darrel Wong

Nani Dalene Photo Matty Leong

THE ALLURE OF FOILING

By Rebecca Parsons

While the origins of hydrofoils date back to the 1900s, it wasn’t until recent years that foil surfing exploded. In the early 2000s, Laird Hamilton began experimenting with attaching a hydrofoil to the bottom of a surfboard and gained recognition for riding it on massive waves at Jaws. While Hamilton was one of the pioneers of foiling, Kai Lenny is credited with popularizing the sport. To this day, Lenny regularly pushes the limits of what is possible on a foil and videos of him flying across the water have spread like wildfire.

As foiling gained popularity, many surfers swapped their surfboards for hydrofoils and haven’t looked back. So, what exactly is the allure of foiling? Is it the feeling of flying across the water? The enhanced speed? The increased wave count? The new challenge it presents? All of the above? We caught up with three diehard foilers and asked what drew them into foiling and what continues to keep the captivated by the sport.

Photo Tom Servais

KAI LENNY

I first started riding a hydrofoil when I was nine years old: back when it involved snowboard boots and bindings. That was the time Laird [Hamilton], Dave Kalama, Rush Randle, and the entire strap crew were experimenting with riding the world’s biggest waves on foils. Because it was so elite, nobody else got into it and it disappeared for a while. When it returned in kite surfing for racing, that’s when carbon fiber and different technologies made it more accessible. But it wasn’t until 2016 when I set my sights on riding the world’s smallest waves on a hydrofoil rather than the world’s biggest: small waves on the south shore paddling in prone or doing downwinders on a SUP with a foil.

The sensation of riding a hydrofoil is like snowboarding in chest deep powder. For those that haven’t done that, it’s like standing on a cloud. It’s about the closest feeling to flying or being like a bird that you can get, or at least the illusion of it.

The beauty of Foil surfing is that it’s insane training for all sorts of different sports, especially surfing. The reason is, your endurance/ stamina improves, you can essentially ride the worst waves ever with no one around and practice your technique, repeatedly. It’s definitely a board that is essential to my quiver.

What I love about the sport is no matter where I go in the world, I know I’m not going to get skunked because with the foil, the waves are always good. I also really like the technical side of the sport and being able to fine-tune your equipment to fit your riding style or the conditions that you are in. So, it’s a bit like Formula 1 in the sense that you’re combining athleticism with technology and that adds another layer to the enjoyment of riding waves.

JACK HO

I first got into foiling when I was 13 years old, in 2018. At the time, I was super into longboard surfing, so I was surfing Diamond Head and Waikiki daily. The thing about these surf breaks is that the waves are usually soft and mushy, perfect for logging but also perfect for foiling. I would be going surfing and see a lot of guys flying circles around me on foils. It looked way more fun than what I was doing so of course I wanted a go.

The crossover between foiling and surfing is that your style points from surfing have a direct translation to foiling. Some of the best foilers I've seen are also the most stylish surfers. The foil ironically slows everything down. When you can do a 30-foot bottom turn and come right into a 30-foot frontside carve, it gives you so much time to think about your form and style. With the surfing background, you can apply your own form and style to the foil. The differences are mainly the foot pressure and the types of waves you are looking for—you’re no longer looking for perfect six-foot A-frames. Instead, you’re on the hunt for a glassy, two-foot mush burger that peels forever. My favorite conditions are when the winds are howling and the downwind runs come into play.

The community is 100% the best part. All of sudden, you’re showing up to a spot hoping it’s crowded with all your friends. After the session, you cruise in the parking lot with the crew. I have met some of my now closest friends through the sport. There’s no discrimination based on your skill level and no judgment on your prior surfing background. Everyone is just here to have a good time.

Photo Matty Leong

JOHN AMUNDSON

I first tried foiling about 20 years ago. After seeing the Maui guys put together the first tow surfing foil, my good friends Guy Perre and Brenden Shea approached me to build a board and make one of the first (if not the first) foil boards on Oahu. The contraption featured K2 snowboard boots and weighed about 40 pounds. The foil technology was nowhere near where it is today—you had to tow into and ride rather large waves to keep it up on foil. I will never forget the feelings of absolute nirvana and absolute terror! More recently, the gear has been refined into a lighter package with much better low speed performance, allowing for very small waves to be ridden.

Foiling gives you the feeling of flight. If you have ever seen a pelican gliding over a glassy ocean, bending and conforming to the swell’s surface, that is what foiling feels like. As surfers, we are always looking for a good wave which allows us to effortlessly go fast. A foil allows us to go fast on the smallest of waves.

I love the fact that I can go foil some random empty wave and have an amazing time. The world is full of mushy little waves and the foil loves to play with them. Another amazing thing about foiling are the happy people you encounter in the lineup. Generally speaking, the foiling community has smiles to offer and are willing to offer help if needed. I have actually seen foiling make some surfers happy again and find the stoke that was lost somewhere along the way.

My ultimate foiling conditions might be slightly different than most. I love being out on the jet ski with a good friend in waves that make me feel alive. I would say that we are all looking for the same feeling of joy and happiness and I can find that on nearly every foil session.

Photo Peter King

MALA'E MCELHENY

I first tried foiling in October of 2017 with John Amundson when I was nine years old. Foiling had been re-emerging on the internet and I also knew John and Kamaki Worthington were foiling here on the North Shore. I was really lucky to also spend time foiling when I started with the inventor of modern surf foiling, Alex Aguera.

I was really fortunate to also learn wing foiling from one of the winging pioneers, Alan Cadiz. I received a lot of support when I started wing foiling from both John Amundson and Duotone Sports.

I have always been inspired by Kai Lenny and Zane Schweitzer since they are able to excel at all the disciplines of foiling in addition to all the other types of ocean activities that they are the world’s best at! Both of them also make time to foil and surf with the groms too!

The biggest crossovers in surfing and foiling are definitely the feelings of being out in the water with your friends and family. The stoke you get from getting a good ride or seeing your friend get a good one is also similar. One big difference is that you can have a pretty bad wipe out foiling even if it is pretty much flat. Another difference is the speed and length of ride in foiling.

Foiling feels like magic to be flying above the water and I just want to keep reaching for that feeling. This is especially true when doing big downwind runs or when we are doing big jumps. Number two, I have met the most enthusiastic and generous group of friends. Foilers remind me of skaters where it seems that people cheer each other on more so maybe than in other sports—if one foiler does something cool, everyone gets stoked!

Photo Blake Mcelheny

SIMEON KEPALOMA

I started foiling in 2019 just for fun as something to do when the surf was terrible—I never thought I’d get into it or like it. I would just try my buddy’s board to pass the time, have some entertainment from wipeouts, and enjoy a new challenge.

Foiling is like the balance of hanging 10 on a four-foot double up, elevated two and a half feet off the water, going the fastest you’ve ever gone and riding the farthest you’ve ever gone. Surfing and foiling are very similar yet very different. I think we try to surf a wave like we do on a surfboard with cutbacks, roundhouses, hitting the foam, airs, and such, but foiling is three-dimensional. You have to deal with pitch, altitude and different angles that you don’t experience in a normal bottom turn. You also gain an insane amount of speed as you turn, so you’re hanging on for dear life.

I love the community, the stoke and enthusiasm, and the brotherhood of foiling. I love the learning curve and how humbling it is. I love downwinding and surfing the open ocean for miles at a time. Gear and equipment are constantly improving and getting better, allowing us to feel faster speeds, have better efficiency, and improved sensations. I see contest and racing in the future as well, we have a few here and there but that’s a huge sector that will grow.

Photo Bryan McDonald

On a surf trip to the Maldives in 2016, I was introduced to foiling by Zane Schweitzer. It clicked right away. Perhaps it was my complimentary love for snowboarding, riding ala'ia, finless surfing, and skateboarding that allowed my body to quickly adapt to these new demands to remain on a foil, but whatever it was, I was hooked. What I didn't realize at that moment was that foiling would change my life.

Upon returning home, I sold a few shortboards and bought a foil with a friend. We Frankensteined it to the bottom of one of my old shortboards and broke the board on the first day. Not the greatest start but I’m glad we persevered. I met other foilers learning alongside me and started to realize that not only was the riding different, but also the overall vibe and a mutual sense of discovery.

Fast forward to today and foiling has evolved dramatically. We are foil surfing, winging and most amazingly, downwinding. Downwinding is riding open ocean swells and wind bumps to travel miles of coastline in peace and solitude. It doesn’t require breaking waves and in a single run one can catch hundreds if not thousands of waves. Your only companions are the marine life and your thoughts as you travel anywhere from 2-30 miles down the coast or between islands.

I understand the hesitance and accompanying disdain that many of my fellow shortboarders hold towards foiling. Those good, often great surfers have worked for decades to reach a level of proficiency in surfing that allows them a respected spot in the lineup. Giving that up to become a kook again is not appealing. But I will guarantee that the benefits of humiliation during the foil journey are worth it. Foiling allows me to surf waves the way I always imagined, surf waves I would have never imagined, go twice the speed, and spend exponentially more time up and riding waves.

Photo Matty Leong

ERIC STERMAN

In 2016, I had the opportunity to help film a documentary with Robby Naish and Kai Lenny in Namibia and Peru. I’d seen foiling online when Kai put out the first video, but in person it was something different. Watching them foil Chicama Peru was what inspired me to get into this sport. As soon as I got home, I ordered one and started my foiling journey.

The closest feeling someone can relate to is snowboarding on pure powder, experiencing the sensation of floating with no resistance. The thrill one gets from their first glide on a foil, followed by a momentary crash, and then popping up with a huge smile says it all.

With the ocean being our playground, foiling just adds opportunities in all conditions— mainly when it’s windy or small and you wouldn’t want to surf, foiling solves that issue. What I love most about foiling is the camaraderie. Doesn’t matter your age, lifestyle, or profession, this sport brings everyone together, which I think is special.

This is a big year for foiling, with major foiling contests like Molokai 2 Oahu shining light on this sport. This will push competition between large foil brands to invest more time and energy into new tech and R&D that will lead to a growing community of foiling.

Photo Matty Leong

MOONA WHYTE

I first tried foiling about six years ago. I learned how to ride one with a kite first, then on a SUP, and then moved to a prone board. But I didn't really get into foiling until I started winging a few years ago and could tow myself into waves without paddling and pumping. Now that's my favorite way to foil.

I remember the first time I got up on a foil with my kite I felt like I was flying and I was so stoked. That, plus feeling like you're balancing on top of a yoga ball on a stick. Now that I've gotten more comfortable with it, it just feels like super smooth surfing, with no chops, like you're on a hoverboard.

Foiling can be just like surfing if you want it to be. You can paddle out, catch waves, go down the line and carve. But the biggest difference is the size of wave you need, which is what makes it such a great compliment to surfing because you want to go out when the surf is junk.

Everything has been so unexpected with the progression of foiling, like with wings and now freestyle tricks and flips, so I probably shouldn't count anything out. But for now, I think it's pretty cool seeing guys hitting the lip and the whitewater and getting even closer to a surfing style.

Photo Christa Funk

KEAHI DE ABOITIZ

With my kitesurfing background, my first introduction to the sport was in 2012 with a kite foil. Although it was a great light wind and exploration tool, I never really got that into it in the beginning. But once surf foiling started taking off in 2017, it didn't take me long to join the trend and become addicted. Having the kite foil background was a massive help and made the learning curve much easier and I've been addicted ever since.

I think the most comparable feeling is snowboarding in powder leaning into big flowing carves down the mountain. It gives you that similar feeling of speed and drive you get surfing a bigger wave on a small wave that’s barely even breaking.

For me, it always comes back to the ability to turn average waves into a whole new world of fun. You'll never look at a mushy wave the same after learning and it’s changed the Hawai'i summertime experience massively for me, especially with the addition of wing foiling and downwind foiling. It opens up so many more areas to have fun and escape the crowds. I've never looked forward to the small days so much in my life.

The evolution of gear has been insane over the last few years and I think the ongoing development will continue to make things even better in terms of speed, turning, and efficiency. Higher grade, stiffer materials continue to allow for higher aspect foils which have been a game changer for more speed range and efficiency, especially for pumping, downwinding, and wing foiling. I'm sure this will just continue to get better as the years go on.

Photo Christa Funk

ROBIN JOHNSTON

I first tried foiling in 2018. It looked like so much fun; I couldn’t resist getting into it. Crossovers between surfing and foiling are the sensation of carving (much like snowboarding in powder feels like surfing). Imagine doing a bottom turn into a knee buckling G force solar system carve that you sustain in a committed arc for so long that it turns into a bottom turn going the opposite direction at which time you lay into another arc carving back the opposite way to complete a figure eight. And this gets repeated over and over and over until your legs fall off.

The allure of foiling is the speed carving. Also pumping outwards to attack an oncoming wave. And I haven’t even gotten into downwinding, yet which will be an additional adrenaline thrilled bonus. We recently watched Matahi Drollet pull into the barrel at Teahupoo on a foil, so the sky is the limit.

Photo Mike Latronic

APERTURE

Sky Brown, North Shore, Oah'u Photo: Brent Bielmann

Teva Dexter, Heavy Metal Thunder, Teahupo'o Photo:Brian Bielmann

Keoni Watson Photo: Mike Latronic

Dan Ryan, Highway to Hell, Teahupo'o Photo:Brian Bielmann

Nicollo Porcelle, Peahi Photo: Brian Bielmann

Ikaika Kalama Photo: Mike Latronic

Stuff We Like

Volcom

FINALLY! Womens wetsuits are here and ready for YOU. Tested out at Pipeline by Coco Ho, Moana Jones Wong, and Chesney Guinotte volcom.com

Kaiola

Surf Hats

Kaiola surf hats are designed by surfers for surfers. We know what matters and our sole purpose is to make the ultimate surf hat. Our customers confirm that we have achieved this: Best fit ever, wipeout and duck-dive proof, UPF 80, and oh so comfy. Must-haves: premium quality, sustainability and timeless style. Kaiola Surf Bucket Hat - $89.00. Kaiola

Surf Hat - Black $72.00

kaiola.co

O'Neill

4-way stretch board shorts

A standard, functional boardshort for any day by the water. 4-way stretch fabrication adds flexibility while O'Neill Hyperdry technology speeds up drying time.

oneill.com

LUKE SWANSON

Photo: Ryan Ell

Dragon by Marchon ©2023 Marchon Eyewear Inc.

Stuff We Like

Local Motion

Jiggy Tee

Our "Re-issue Collection" brings back original Local Motion designs exactly as they were printed in the 80's. localmotionhawaii.com

Sun Bum

Mineral SPF 50 Sunscreen Lotion

Some of us like to go as au naturel as possible, so we’re really proud to introduce our new zinc-based Mineral collection for your lounging and earth loving pleasure. sunbum.com

dryrobe® Advance Long Sleeve

The original weatherproof surf poncho is designed to let you get changed in and out of a wetsuit anywhere. Complete with a waterproof outer and fast-drying inner, it’s perfect for warming up after a cold surf. Made with 100% recycled fabrics. $195 dryrobe.com

Hi-Tech Surf Sports

@benoaswim x voyager summer 2023 is now available at Hi-Tech Kahului and Shapers Maui! surfmaui.com

Hawaiian Island Creations

Boardshorts

Black camo with rasta stripe for maximum flex factor. hicsurf.com

NICK RICCA

Growing up on Maui, I’ve always been inspired by the sea, spending my days in it or around it. My step father is a filmmaker, and similarly I was also surrounded by media and production. One of my earliest inspirations was seeing Clark Little shore break photos, and picking up a little water proof point and shoot to take barrel shots at 12 years old. It felt like such a natural fit to merge my two passions of being in the water and being creative with a camera.

A few years later, a local maui surf photographer Dooma held a Facebook Contest to give away one of his old DSLR’s to an aspiring photographer as a way of giving back to the community. I submitted several photos and an essay describing what I would do with the camera, and I won the canon 40D. With the help and support of my mother, I bought a used telephoto lens and my journey into surf photography really began. I would shoot everyday and as often as I could, always getting rides from friends as this was before I could even drive. Ultimately, I started to want to be in the water with a housing and set my sights on saving up money to buy one. Luckily for me on Maui there’s no shortage of talent in the water here. Friends I’ve grown up with have gone on to make it to the world tour or are successful free surfers.

When I was 16 I was one of 30 selected out of over a hundred applicants to attend a water photography workshop held by Zak Noyle on Oahu. It changed everything for me, getting to learn from the best using top of the line equipment that I didn’t have access to otherwise. it only fueled my passion more. It was a turning point of understanding I could turn this into a career and gave me a foundation of how to shoot in the water. Zak is definitely my biggest inspiration with watershots along with Brian and Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, & John Hook.

Ian Gentil

I spent my high school years devoted to water photography and working as hard as I could. One highlight was when I was sent to Oahu to shoot the 2015 Volcom pipe pro by an energy bar sponsor I was working with at the time, It was a dream come true. It was my first time on the north shore and I was sleeping on a couch at the Volcom house, thanks to Tai and Kaimana. The morning of the last day of the contest, I ran into Zak in the front yard of the house. He told me to quickly grab my gear and took me over to the officials tower, signed us in, and next thing I know I’m in the lineup at backdoor with him and only two other photographers. It was surreal to be shooting there as this huge contest was running.

Besides swimming, I’ve always loved shooting big waves. In fact most of my commercial success has come from shooting in my backyard at Jaws. I’ve landed a few ads for brands like Reef and Billabong, and was nominated for the XXL awards a couple times. I’ve also worked a lot with Vissla, Dakine, and various other brands.

In 2018 I left the country for the first time to go on a last minute surf trip to Mexico with Ian Gentil and Tyler Larronde, it was crazy to see such perfect waves and be so far from home. It was the kind of thing I would dream about as a kid flipping through magazines, and I was living the dream. We shot the whole trip on a RED camera and Ian and I edited the video on our way home on my laptop. Our edit “Salt and Lime” got a lot of traction and was shared by some major sites like surfer magazine. It’s still online at vimeo. com/nickricca. I love filming videos and it’s fun to go back and forth between stills and motion. Eventually I’d like to shoot a long form surf movie with a great team. Albee Layer is a big inspiration for me with all the films he’s made. Dan Norkunas and Elliot Leboe have helped me a lot over the years with video too.

Shortly after that trip to Mexico I found out that I was going to be a father, I was 21 at the time and I knew I needed to make more money. Although I was getting so much traction with my photography and video, it wasn’t paying enough. Randomly I got an opportunity through a friend to work at Gucci selling luxury goods. I figured I would give it a shot. It was my first entrance

into a real corporate 9-5 type of job that was serious, and for a kid who spent every day at the beach taking pictures and surfing it was a big shift for me. I learned a lot there and did well, had my daughter and thought I would have time to pursue my creative career on the weekends. With the pressure of being a new father working 40+ hours a week and commuting 2 hours a day, I realized there was barely any time to do anything else. My photography gear was picking up dust and I kind of fell out of the loop with it all. It was a weird feeling and I missed the freedom and excitement of shooting. I worked there for four years, and last year I decided I wasn’t where I wanted to be. I needed to make a change and go back into media pursuing the things that I love. Being creative is what I find most enjoyment in so I took a leap of faith and quit in December 2022. I took out a loan and got the equipment that I felt that I would need, because I’ve spent my entire life til then scraping up anything I made from photos to reinvest it and barely even had enough money to upgrade equipment. I wanted to get back into things not only with my skill, but with the tools that I needed to succeed.

Throughout the years of creative work, I’ve also stumbled into doing modeling and acting and that’s been taking off for me lately. I’ve had an agent on Oahu for the past 5 or 6 years but have been doing way more with it now. I feel like my diverse background has allowed me to play many different roles which I’m grateful for. I recently starred in a commercial for Kona brewing company that aired nationwide. I always love to talk story with the filmers and photographers on these jobs and see how they work on a big set. With what I do and where I’m going, I want to inspire kids growing up here who were like me interested in many different things to be multi faceted. To show that if you put your mind to anything and work hard you really can achieve your dreams and go places you never thought were possible. It feels good to do so many things in front of and behind the camera, whether shooting a surf trip, a brand campaign, or acting in a commercial, it keeps things fresh and interesting every day. Ultimately, I feel blessed to just be creative and pursue the arts like this. You can follow along with my journey at @nickricca on social media and www.nickricca.com

Billy Kemper

ree paths forged by a love of sur ng

KAI LENNY

Tears for Fears

Songs from the Big Chair

This band and album feels nostalgic and is easy to daydream too

Korn

Untouchables

Because I was growing up in the early 2000’s some of my favorite music is Nu-metal. It is just straight pump up music ��

Grateful Dead

I chose this album because as I kid I remember listening to it with my parents. Listening to it brings back so many great memories. One of my favorites was when we were driving and a 15 minute song came on. My brother at the time was 12 years old and finally broke and couldn’t take another 15-20 minute song. He wanted to be dropped on the side of the road!

Staind

14 shades of Gray 2003 is when this album dropped and my obsession of Jaws and the Strapped Crew was at an all time high. This to me is epic Big Wave Music. Motivating but emotional, which Big Wave Surfing is. I’ll go over the ledge on a 20ft no hesitation with this album playing in my head

Billy Talent

Fun Punk music to surf too. Used to play this with my friends to go surfing all the time. Love this genre

Photo Brian Bielmann

FOR THE LONG RIDE...

FIND RAINBOW® SANDALS AT THESE RETAILERS SURF N SEA, HAWAII SURF AND SAIL, BARNFIELDS RAGING ISLE, POIPU SURF, BACKDOOR SURF, FLIP FLOP SHOPS WAIKIKI INTERNATIONAL MARKETPLACE, ALOHA BOARD SHOP, LAHAINA SUNGLASS CO, ALOHA EXCHANGE, ISLAND HEMP & COTTON CO, ADVENTURE SPORTS MAUI, BILLABONG HANALEI, FLIP FLOP SHOPS KAUAI, KAI ALOHA, WORLD CORE AND KIHEI PARADISE, SURF CAMP, STOKE HOUSE

GERRY LOPEZ MR. PIPELINE

Afew years back, I got a call from Volcom, and they needed me to show up on the west side for a skate project they wanted me to photograph. Now, I rarely shoot skating, but I never turn down a job, and I believe it's basically like shooting surfing, so I packed my bags and hit the road. I needed to be there in 2 hours to meet them at the harbor. I had no clue what was going to happen.

I showed up, and Clint Moncata had his boat waiting. Jump on and let go, he yells. We had two skaters, Grant Taylor and David Gonsales, three filmers, and Ryan Immegart, the boss from Volcom, who was producing. We headed out to sea, and I asked, So what the hell are we doing? An hour later, we pulled up to a floating ramp out in the middle of the ocean.

Clint had built this ramp and had it in front of his place in Kaneohe. The idea was to shoot the skaters against a beautiful Hawai'i sunset, so Clint had dragged this thing all the way around the island to get the ramp floating in front of the sunset. My buddy Tai Van Dyke had pulled up on a jet ski to shoot it from another angle. I instantly realized how lucky I was to walk into this scenario.

The guys jumped on the ramp and started to slowly work things out. It was an hour before sunset, so they practiced and slowly worked out the ramp, and as the sun got lower and the sky more beautiful, they started going off. The airs got bigger and better. Finally, right before the sun went down, they started the beautiful synchronized skate performance with both of them on opposite sides of the ramp getting airs at the same time, and we got the magic shot on film and stills. It was awesome. Mission accomplished. It was going to be in the new Volcom movie. High fives for beers and joints all around.

It was getting dark and we had to get the ramp into the harbor. New problem, we got word that the DLNR (game wardens) agents were waiting for us. We decided Tai would go in on the ski and try to talk us out of whatever was waiting for us. We just thought we could wing it and nobody would know.

Taylor and David Gonzalez skating outside Makaha

Tai headed in while we started dragging the ramp to the next harbor. We were desperados trying to get the hell out of dodge. Within 10 minutes, we could hear a helicopter coming towards us, and pretty low, one of the filmers yelled to the skaters and said, "Get rid of your pot! Throw it overboard!" No way. "Forget it", yelled one of them. Very reluctantly, he threw it overboard, and the minute he did that, the chopper turned and flew off in another direction. He was not after us after all, but too late, the pot was gone.

We spent a couple hours dragging the ramp in the darkness and finally made it to the next harbor. We sneaked the damn thing in, parked our boats, ran into our cars, and took off. We could come back for the ramp when the heat cooled off. Thinking we pulled this off because they were not waiting for us, we headed home.

The next morning, we woke to find out that they knew exactly who we were, so they had not bothered to pursue us. They had handed Tai a ticket for no permit and said, We will see you in court in one week. A week later, Tai came back from court and said that Volcom would have to pay a fine of $10,000. It's safe to say we didn’t see that coming.

The video was a hit, and they used my shot as the poster for the movie. All the video was used in the final scenes of the film. It was called "True To This." It's the cost of doing business, I guess. As time goes by, the photo has become quite iconic. Im pretty blessed that I walked into this scenario and got one of the coolest skate shots ever. You just don’t see a shot like this every day.

FLASH BACK

By Brian Bielmann

MOKU HAWAII SURF CLASSIC

Surfing in Waikiki has been a tradition ever since the time of Duke Kahanamoku and the original Waikiki Beach Boys. Many generations since then have kept that tradition going by surfing these long stretches of breaks with different variations of boards from piopo boards, to epoxy longboards. One particular shop in Waikiki has made it their goal to always put the community first and give them a chance to surf in prime surf conditions. Moku Hawaii Surf Shop put together the 2023 Moku Surf Classic, where surfers from longboarding to shortboarding got an opportunity to surf Queens surf break with only 5 other people. With a non-elimination format, every competitor got to surf 2 heats, accumulating an amount of points in order to enter a 6 person final. The first day of the event only had waves reaching 1-2 feet making it a bit more challenging for these performers to catch any decent rides. However, the next two days received a bigger south swell, having maximum set wave reach from overhead to double overhead. This fresh swell gave the participants a great opportunity for aggressive carves, big floaters, and long nose rides. Standouts like Kaniela Stewart and Johnny Van Hohenstein brought their knowledge of their home break and absolutely brought their A game. Even the local wahine, Tiki Willis and Kelis Kaleopaa put on a great show by tearing it up on the open face and adding some stylish hang 5’s. The entire Waikiki community has a great time celebrating surfing and the ocean. Lots of the local kids who competed got to surf amazing conditions at Queens and take home some fun prizes. Waikiki style of surfing will continue on. Especially when this new generation keeps innovating the sport and elevating the skill level.

Photos & story by Aukai Ng

Kaniela Stewart

Kelis Malia Lei Kaleopaʻa

John Michael Van Hohenstein

29TH ANNUAL OLE LONGBOARD CLASSIC

Tasha Jahrmarkt won her third straight open women’s title while Mau Ah Hee claimed his second consecutive open men’s crown at the 29th annual Ole Longboard Classic, Saturday at Launiupoko.

The open divisions were the biggest with 30 competitors each. After experiencing near flat conditions in the weeks leading up to the event, over 200 entries surfed four-to-five foot wave faces in the 64 contested heats.

In the 19-29 final, Jahrmarkt’s final wave moved her from fifth to first. “I kind of pulled it together at the very last second there. I’m really, really stoked about that. It’s really cool to surf against the guys. It was a fun heat.”

For Ah Hee, a 35-year-old Maui County lifeguard, it was his fifth open men’s title. “Stoked to win again,” Ah Hee said. “I felt good coming in.”

Ah Hee won using borrowed surfboards as his new longboard didn’t arrive in time. “A big shout out to my mother-in-law, Marcy (Martin), and Joe Barone. Those are the boards I rode today.”

His wife, Ariel, also used the same borrowed boards and placed fourth in open women. It was her first time ever advancing to the open women’s final.

Ah Hee’s sister, Mahealani, won the Auntie division. His motherin-law, Marcy, was third in the same division.

Also having a family affair was Keli Everett and his son, Owen. Everett won the 40-49 division while Owen was fourth in the menehune category.

Zolten Poulsen, a member of the MIL champion Maui Prep boy’s team, won the junior boys. His two-wave total of 15.63, was the highest score in all of the finals. The sophomore-to-be is also a shortboarder who enjoys longboarding.

Another MIL surfer, Bella Kuailani, won the junior women. The junior-to-be at King Kekaulike took the junior girls last year.

Lara Claydon finished runner-up to Jahrmarkt in the open women for the third straight year. Earlier she did win the Ole division.

“Me and Tasha have had this rivalry going on,” Claydon laughed. “One day, I’ll get her, but she’s been killing it.”

Claydon defeated five guys in the Ole final. “It was really cool to take out all the guys in that division. We all were encouraging to each other. Everyone was ripping.”

Aunties division winner Mahealani Ah Hee places her toes on the nose.

Tasha Jahrmarkt Jahrmarkt won her third straight title .

Mau Ah Hee. He won for the second straight year. Keli Everett, the Hana High School surf coach wins the 40-49 division.

Photos Dayanidhi Das

Finneus The Dolphin by Michael Green

by Sabrina Weaver

Finneus The Dolphin by Michael Green was overall a great book for those who want to try a little longer book at a young age, 9 years (like me), or any age really. It is a fantastic book if you love sea life or the ocean overall!

This book is about a boy named Phillip who lives in a town called Beluga Bay. Phillip loves being in the ocean and is in the sea everyday, but then one day he gets turned into a dolphin!?! How!?! I'll let you figure that out. So here is my review about this book!

One of my favorite things about this book is that sometimes in the book it gives small facts. For example, in the book it said some of the dolphins were in their late twenties. I was like, “HUH dolphins can live that long?! “ And it was true! and they can live up to forty years! That was my favorite fact of the entire book. The inclusion of these facts is one of the highlights for me.

Lastly, I loved the illustrations. I actually really liked this kind of art style! The art is not super distracting from the story itself. This book has good sized illustrations and are not too detailed but you can still tell what they are, for example in chapters 1,5 and 17 all have really good illustrations! Very nice art!

So, that is why I thought this story about Phillip, a boy who turns into a dolphin. It was a great book and you should read it too! So, find a comfortable spot, sit down, and start reading this book now!

Mokulele Surf Team Rider Diego Ferri

Photo Aukai Ng

Hawai'i ranked well at the National Scholastic Surfing Association’s 2023 Explorer National Championships in Huntington Beach. Phots Nate Perry and Larry Cole.

12-year-old Kiki Oshiro-Kaneshiro was granted the wildcard for the pro event in Local Motion’s annual “Surf into Summer” contest, making her the youngest competitor in the event. She also finished fourth in the 17 and under girls shortboard division.

Sanuk teamed up with the Surfrider Foundation for the third year in a row to launch a limited-edition coastal footwear collection in honor of National Ocean Month. In addition to the limited-edition styles, Sanuk donated $45,000 to Surfrider to aid in the fight for clean oceans and healthy beaches.

Clyde Aikau, younger brother of beloved Eddie Aikau, was hospitalized in Las Vegas while on a work trip in late June. He collapsed after leaving a restaurant and it was determined that he had an aneurysm in his aortic valve, requiring him to undergo emergency open heart surgery. Best wishes for a speedy recovery Uncle Clyde!

Rookie Caitlin Simmers and Yago Dora took the win at the Vivo Rio Pro in Brazil. For Simmers, it’s her second CT win and for Dora, it’s his maiden win. At the conclusion of the event, both Carissa Moore and Tyler Wright had officially secured their positions in the final five.

Southern California based surfer Sage Erickson got engaged to Daniel Norris in early June.

Four-time world champion and mother of two Lisa Anderson launched a signature collection with Roxy. According to Roxy’s artistic director Stephanie Micci, the collection draws inspiration from Lisa’s iconic 90s Roxy style and all the pieces are shred worthy.

Luke Tema

Zoei Zeitz

Kai Domen

Lucas Senkbeil Cassity

Luke Tema

BOARD STORIES

“Board Stories” can be seen in Hawai'i on Spectrum OC16 on Ch. 16/1016 and Spectrum Surf Channel Ch. 20/1020. Spectrum OC16’s live stream is available on oc16.tv and the Spectrum TV app (to Spectrum customers in Hawai'i only), and nationally to any Spectrum customer on the Spectrum News mobile app and CTV app on Roku and Apple TV.

Fins are the BEST Noseriding fins on the market.

“Black Tip” power flex fins, for longboards, nose riders, 2 + 1 and single fin set ups “I guarantee this will be the best single fin, you’ve ever tried!

World Surf League CEO Erik Logan left the company. There were no details as to why Logon left the company and WSL is looking for a replacement.

In early July, the ISA held a two-week training camp at Teahupo’o for surfers who had already qualified for the 2024 Olympics or were on the verge of qualifying. Participants included Alan Cleland (MEX), Bryan Perez (ESA), Candelaria Resano (NCA), Saffi Vette (NZL), Shino Matsuda (JPN), Billy Stairmand (NZL), Cody Young (CAN), Lucca Mesinas (PER), Sol Aguirre (PER), Leilani McGonagle (CRC), and Tiara van der Huls (NED).

The ISA suspended Erin Brooks’ eligibility to compete for team Canada in the Paris 2024 Olympics. There were some issues with her citizenship status and proper documentation.

On July 18, Surf Girls Hawaii premiered on Prime Video. The four-part docuseries produced by Hello Sunshine in partnership with Togethxr follows five, young native Hawaiian surfers, Moana Jones Wong, Ewe Wong, Maluhia Kinimaka, Pua DeSoto, and Brianna Cope, as they navigate careers as professional surfers and daily life.

The Red Bull Foam Wreckers contest returned with multiple summertime events across the United States. Sponsored by Red Bull and created by Jamie O’Brien, Foam Wreckers is an “anti-surf surf contest” where anyone can enter, and everyone competes on soft tops.

Filipe Toledo and Caroline Marks won the El Salvador Pro. Toledo defeated Griffin Colapinto in the final to take the win. For the women, it came down to Marks and Tyler Wright, with Marks coming out on top.

Tuesday, July 4, 2023 was the hottest day ever recorded, with a global average temperature of 62.92 degrees Fahrenheit. The record is attributed to the El Nino year in combination with climate change.

Tuesday, July 4, 2023 was the hottest day ever recorded, with a global average temperature of 62.92 degrees Fahrenheit. The record is attributed to the El Nino year in combination with climate change.

John John Florence listed his 48-foot catamaran for sale for $1,349,000.

Erik Logan

Word on the street is that there are plans to open the world’s largest wavepool in Abu Dhabi and it is suspected that the World Surf League is a part of the project. The pool will be on Al Hudayriat Island and will supposedly include the world’s longest ride, biggest barrel, and the largest man-made wavepool. It is speculated that events and contents will be held there.

A Netflix film crew was attacked by sharks while filming Our Planet II near Laysan, Hawai'i. No one was injured in the attack.

Patagonia released a new short film entitled For the Love of the Sea. According to Patagonia’s website: “The documentary short follows Câr y Môr, the first community-owned regenerative ocean farm in Wales. Cultivating versatile crops like seaweed with zero-input techniques, the Haines family reveals the powerful ways that the ocean can help fight climate change while nourishing people in more ways than one.”

World Ocean Day was celebrated worldwide on June 8. The theme for 2023 was “Planet Ocean: Tides Are Changing.”

Huntington Beach’s Sara Freyre earned her second NSSA surfing national title in Surf City. For the men, Mexico’s Lucas Cassity claimed the win.

Coming next issue,The Art Of Mikala Jones. Farewell to an athlete, an artist and a beautiful soul. RIP.

Photo Mikala Jones