Encountering Classic Kenya and the Enchanting “Singing Wells” of Sarara by Kathy Schulz
72
• Call Call Frontiers Frontiers1-800-245-1950 1-800-245-1950• •+44 +44(0)845 (0)845299 2996212 6212ininthe theUK UK• www.frontiersej.com • www.frontiersej.com
I
recently experienced Kenya’s warm, friendly hospitality and the exceptional wildlife in the game-rich areas of Laikipia, Mount Kenya, the Masai Mara and Samburu.
Traveling as part of an invitation-only Abercrombie & Kent Familiarization Trip, I had the pleasure of visiting some classic safari locations including the historic Norfolk Hotel in Nairobi, the intimate lodges and bush homes in the renowned Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, the prestigious Mount Kenya Safari Club, and several great properties in the Masai Mara including the remarkable new Angama Mara, which had just opened its doors literally on the edge of the Great Rift Valley three days prior to my visit. The design and namesake of this fabulous owner-run lodge was inspired by the Swahili word for “suspended in midair.” Our last stop in the Mara was also my favorite: Sanctuary Olonana. Situated on the banks of the famed Mara River, Olonana’s private location in a riverine forest provides a frontrow seat during the annual action-packed Great Wildebeest Migration. The luxury camp features 14 spacious and tastefully appointed “tents” with verandahs close to the river where guests can relax and watch the resident hippos wallowing. You can also enjoy an open-air spa treatment, take a tasting tour of the organic garden, learn about the camp’s eco-initiatives, plant a tree with your name on it, or accompany one of Olonana’s Maasai guides to the nearby village. Maurice, the manager of this extremely friendly and well-run camp, has been at Olonana for 17 years. He worked his way all the way up from his original entry-level position, and his love for and dedication to this camp have an almost tangible tricklethrough effect. Olonana is the perfect choice for both couples and families, with scores of fun and creative children’s activities. Our dear friends at Africa House Safaris hosted me for the last few days of my memorable safari. I was delighted to take a scenic flight in a private Cessna 206 to the northern frontier of Kenya and spend two nights at Sarara Camp, set in the pristine wilderness of the Mathews Range in the Namunyak Wildlife Conservancy. This remote and dramatic landscape is also home to the Samburu tribe, whose age-old traditions, including the famed “Singing Wells,” are as much a part of the fabric of this land as the wildlife. Our fascinating and well-versed Samburu guide, Lemaiyan— otherwise known to guests as Robert—escorted us on a
walking safari from our elegant six-room tented camp through the African bush to the Singing Wells. We felt extremely privileged and deeply moved as we observed the Samburu warriors descend into the wells, standing naked one on top of the other, forming a human chain that extended 32 feet deep. They handed buckets between each other on the precarious ladder, gathering water for their livestock as they sang their haunting Samburu melodies. Each herdsman’s unique chant rose deep from his throat and served to call his cattle to drink as we witnessed this extraordinary ritual. Some of the wells are also used by the thousands of elephants in the area and the stunning Sarara leopards. Although the Samburu bring their cattle to these watering holes on a daily basis during the dry season, no photography is permitted of this intimate experience. The scene is truly surreal and something you can experience nowhere else in Kenya, let alone the world. Safaris in Kenya are overflowing with incredible flora and fauna as well as romantic scenery and breathtaking views! Anyone who’s been on safari before knows that no two days are ever the same. Activities enjoyed during my 12-day journey included day and night game drives in open-sided Land Rovers, guided bush walks, horseback riding, hot-air ballooning, breakfast in the bush, dinner under the endless stars, cultural experiences at local Maasai and Samburu villages, and a very special private visit at Daphne Sheldrick’s Elephant Orphanage to meet our Frontiers’ adopted baby ellie named Mbegu. If you would like to adopt your very own baby elephant or engage in another meaningful philanthropic opportunity firsthand, contact Frontiers Africa Department to let them share how Africa fills your soul like no other destination on earth! n
Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •
73