From the Field:
New Zealand
If you’re in search of monster trout and exploring outdoor adventures Down Under, this guide will provide unparalleled destination knowledge that only Frontiers can offer.
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
My New Zealand...
Twenty-Five Years of Travel Down Under Sets this Wonderful Country at the Top of My Travel List!
BY MIKE FITZGERALD, JR.
Being in the travel business, I am frequently asked, “What’s your favorite destination in the world?” That’s a very tough question to answer based on the tremendous variety of experiences our company offers worldwide. Having said this, if I was offered one last trip in my lifetime, I’d go back to New Zealand. First of all, New Zealand is the healthiest addiction I have. It’s clean, green and spectacularly beautiful. As an avid trout fisherman, the angling is unmatched internationally for trophy trout in most aesthetic surroundings. The residents are among the kindest on the planet and the culture has a commitment to environmental responsibility and conservation that was established way before the carbon footprint expectations of today. Most importantly, Kiwis have a passion for the outdoors and they want their guests hiking, rafting, fishing and exploring. I took my first trip to New Zealand in 1989, a couple of years into my full-time career at Frontiers. It’s hard to believe that was 25 years ago! That inaugural experience vaulted this small South Pacific Island country to an iconic level in my mind. On the first day of fishing I had on the North Island, my guide took a look at the net attached to my vest. He grabbed it from me, stuck it in a small hole next to the river, sprinkled a little water on it and walked away. I politely inquired and he responded, “I just planted the net! Hopefully it will grow during the day to better accommodate the fish we are about to catch!” My first brown trout that day was 26 inches and it never would have fit in my net! I was hooked. In my multiple trips Down Under over the last two decades, I have seen the country evolve into a world-class destination – not only for fly fishers, but also for their companions who may not want to fish every day. The trout resource remains incredible and is complemented with accommodation options ranging from comfortable B&Bs to incredible fishing lodges to hotels and resorts that are on par with the world’s best. There are seaside golf courses that rank in the World’s Top 100, abundant small boutique wineries that are a delight to visit, internationally renowned spas, delectable cuisine that features the wonderful resources of New Zealand and an endless list of other activities including sailing, cycling, Maori culture, hiking, camping, skiing, nature and wildlife viewing.
Mike with a nice rainbow from Tongariro Lodge
Make this your year to travel to New Zealand. Our in-house expertise dating more than 35 years Down Under will ensure a vacation that meets your every expectation. My wife, Kristene, and Sue Szakelyhidi make up the rest of our South Pacific Team. We look forward to hearing from you! n
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Meet the Team: Kristene Fitzgerald With recent trips to New Zealand and Australia, Kristene manages our South Pacific Program. Working with Sue Szakelyhidi, the team has extensive familiarization Down Under. In addition to her responsibilities in the South Pacific, she coordinates our trout fishing and general travel programs in Slovenia, Scotland, England and Ireland. Kristene is an avid fly fisher and has tackled a number of trout streams in the American West, New Zealand and Chile. She also has done a share of saltwater fishing on a variety of flats in the Florida Keys, the Bahamas, Mexico and Belize. Without the fly rod, Kristene is passionate about diving, fine cuisine, wines and loves spending time with her family and two dogs, Cara and Haggin.
Sue Szakelyhidi Sue has been an integral member of the South Pacific team for 23 years working closely with Judy Greene. There is always something fresh and exciting to learn about New Zealand and Australia. Sue relishes the trips she makes to each country that enable her to tailor itineraries to each client’s expectations.
Mike Fitzgerald, Jr. As son of the Frontiers founders, Mike Fitzgerald, was brought up in the outdoor travel business. He has handled a number of sporting programs for Frontiers through the years. Today as President, Mike works closely with the Senior Management Team and the Department Heads and is quite involved with the South Pacific programs. Mike loves to travel with his fly rods, shotguns, cameras and golf clubs. He is passionate about the outdoors and conservation. He sits on the Boards of the Theodore Roosevelt Conservation Partnership and Bonefish & Tarpon Trust. For Mike, trout fishing is at the top of his fly fishing ladder. He has chased trout on five continents; and for him New Zealand represents the true essence of the sport.
The Passing of the Torch Judy Greene has been a dedicated part of the Frontiers Sales Team since 1986 and has been designing South Pacific travel itineraries for our clients since 1988. Her travels with Frontiers have taken her from the Serengeti to the salmon rivers of Iceland to the vast experiences in New Zealand, Australia and the islands of the Pacific. Judy was brilliant at getting our clients off the beaten path – introducing them to the culture and characters Down Under. After many trips South of the Equator, Judy has a deep and lasting affection for the warm, welcoming people of Australia and New Zealand as well as for their land, customs, flora and fauna. Judy’s running gear was always first in and out of the suitcase. Her early morning runs in both Australia and New Zealand frequently introduced her to new discoveries. In July 2014, Judy retired from Frontiers after 28 years. She still consults with us and often stops by when we have South Pacific hoteliers and lodge owners visiting. Judy has confidently passed the torch to Kristene Fitzgerald. We wish Judy all the best in her retirement years!
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
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Northland
North Island
• Saltwater fishing for marlin and other species • Slide on the sand dunes • Golf at Kauri Cliffs • Dive at Poor Knights Island
Coromandel Peninsula
Auckland • America’s Cup Match Race
• Soak in pools at Hot Water Beach
• Waiheke Island – Boutique wineries
Matamata (1 hour north of Rotorua) • Take a tour of The Hobbit movie set
Lake Taupo / Turangi • Heart of the North Island’s trout fishing • Hike the Tongariro Crossing
New Zealand’s North and South Islands in perspective to each other and in relation to Australia. Hawke’s Bay
Australia
• Napier-Art Deco architecture • Golf at Cape Kidnappers New Zealand
Tasmania
Wellington • Te Papa Museum • Seal Coast Safari
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• Gannet Safari • This is a great Chardonnay region
Nelson • Just south is New Zealand’s finest brown trout fishing • Hike or kayak in Abel Tasman National Park • WOW – World of Wearable Art Museum
South Island
• Visit local artisans
Hanmer Springs • Home to doubledigit pound trout • Thermal pools
Blenheim / Marlborough Region: • Hike on the Queen Charlotte Walkway • Wineries featuring Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir
Kaikoura
• Mussel cruise
• Whale watching
Christchurch
Milford & Doubtful Sounds
• Catch the TranzAlpine Express train here to the West Coast
• Scenic overnight cruises on the fiords • View the Manapouri underground power station
Oamaru • Blue Penguin Colony
Dunedin • Scottish influence • Royal Albatross Colony on Otago Peninsula
Queenstown • Great South Island trout fishing
Franz Josef / Fox Glacier • Take a heli-hike on a glacier
• Adventure capital of New Zealand – home to the original bungee jumping • Skiing on Remarkable Mountains • 4 award-winning golf courses
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
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Trophy Trout Fishing Down Under Since the introduction of trout to New Zealand in the late 1800s, the country has emerged as a favorite angling destination. Fishermen from all over have recognized New Zealand as the world’s best wild trophy trout fishery. The majority of the rivers on both the North and South islands are known for their clarity, and their reputation draws travelers from far and wide in search of giant trout. A trout fishery that requires more technical skills than most, New Zealand is not known for the quantity, diversity or ease of catching found in other trout waters. But to the fly fishing purist, it is heaven on earth. A good day on a New Zealand stream may yield only six trout, but they will be gorgeous, healthy, averaging from 3 to 8 pounds and caught under the most spectacular conditions. Stalking trophy wild browns and rainbows while casting dry flies and nymphs in water as clear as the air is challenging, absorbing and addictive — a style unique to New Zealand. Fly fishing in New Zealand is all about making the most of opportunities for trophy trout — seeing them before they see you, in terms of positioning to make that one perfect cast and in terms of fly selection and presentation. Frontiers works with the finest lodges, outfitters and guides in New Zealand, and we have a passion for this unique and extremely rewarding angling experience. We look forward to sharing it with you. n
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Mouse Season in New Zealand This Might Be Your Year for a 10-Pound Trout!
When we were in New Zealand, the guides and lodge owners were predicting that the 2014 / 2015 season would be an epic “mouse year.” What does this mean? We asked Owen River Lodge Owner, Felix Borenstein, for his thoughts on this prediction. And just for the record, I am re-booking for 2015! Every five or six years, a mouse plague explodes in the beech forests of New Zealand. These plagues are driven by the simultaneous seeding or flowering of the native New Zealand beech tree. This produces a glut of seeds or nuts on which the rats and mice feast. With rodents producing 10 offspring every eight weeks, the plagues can eventually do a lot of damage to the native wildlife, especially as the seed runs out and the mice and rats turn to other food sources. For anglers, however, there’s a silver lining. The millions of extra mice move around looking for food and shelter, and in the process many are forced to swim across the rivers to forage for more food. Trout, being the opportunistic feeders they are, soon tune into the large bundles of protein available to them and have no hesitation in walloping them at every opportunity! With such an extraordinary amount of extra food for the taking, it is easy to see how a five-pound brown trout can become a seven-pounder in a matter of months. At the extreme end, I’ve seen mouse feeders that ‘should’ be five pounders but weigh ten.
Owen River Lodge Owner, Felix Borenstein and Keeley
The fishing techniques we tend to use on a “mouse feeder” are pretty much the same as usual. The mice are mainly eaten at night, so thoughts of fishing mouse flies Alaska or Mongolia-style, are largely misplaced. The excitement is all about the incredible size and condition of the trout. As you can imagine, mouse years are predicted by fishing lodge owners about as often as snow resorts predict a bumper year! However, what’s different about the latest prediction is it’s offered by Department of Conservation scientists. Here’s some of what DoC says: “The heaviest beech forest seedfall in more than a decade is predicted in 2014. It is expected the increased seedfall will lead to an explosion in the numbers of rats, mice and stoats. Beech trees generally seed every four to five years but weather conditions over the last two summers — a cool summer followed by a warm one –appear to have triggered a bumper seed or ‘beech mast’ event… Past experience has shown that when a beech mast occurs, it leads to a dramatic rise in mice and rat populations, who feast on the plentiful seed all winter.” So, whilst I’m not guaranteeing a mice plague, it would appear that the scientists are saying that it might happen. If you want the best crack at a 10 pounder, then this upcoming season may be the one! n
BY FELIX BORENSTEIN
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
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Field Notes:
Fishing Down Under BY KRISTENE FITZGERALD
Kristene geared up at Poronui Ranch
In late 2013, Mike and I traveled to New Zealand to experience world-class fishing at some of our best lodges. Here are a few notes from my fishing journal of our incredible trip. Poronui Ranch, North Island: November 26 We enjoyed visiting with Eve Reilly again. She has expertly managed Poronui Lodge for more than 20 years and is a good friend of Frontiers. Poronui was formally a rustic fishing camp on a large sheep station. It was great to see how the property has developed into a world-class sporting retreat since Mike’s last visit.
Tongariro Lodge, North Island: November 21 Tongariro Lodge is a well-established operation based in Turangi on the southern end of Lake Taupo. This large North Island lake has incredible numbers of rainbows that feed into the lake’s many tributaries. We have worked with Tongariro longer than any other lodge in New Zealand, and it continues to provide memorable angling experiences. We took a short 10-minute helicopter flight that put us on a beautiful back-country river with lots of large rainbows. Our guide said that it would have taken four days to hike in there, which illustrates the value of the choppers! The day was magical, and I landed my first two New Zealand trout in the crystal clear stream. Tongariro Lodge offers a wide range of angling opportunities from back-country streams to the Taupo tributaries, the larger Tongariro River and in the lakes. There are float trips and overnight camping options too… making it a great place to explore the fine fishing on the North Island.
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Poronui is located near Taupo on the North Island, nestled in the Taharua River Valley. In addition to outstanding fishing, the lodge has sporting clays, horseback riding and many other nonfishing Mike, Eve and Kristene at Poronui activities. Poronui also has an exceptional big game hunting operation for red and sika deer, plus other species. The trout fishing is fantastic with plenty of water on this working ranch. In addition to the Taharua, guests can fish the Mohaka and two tributaries. Back country access is also ideal. The best helicopter company in the region is located on the neighboring property, providing short flight times, which reduces chopper costs. We had two great days of fishing with one of Poronui’s newer guides, Paul. He had great eyes for spotting fish, a genuinely nice personality, and he was more excited than we were when a fish took our fly. Complementing the outdoor experience was the cuisine, which was remarkable; and we continued to enjoy learning more about New Zealand wines.
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Stonefly Lodge, South Island: December 3 We made our way to Stonefly Lodge, which is ideally located overlooking the Motueka River on the northern end of the South Island. John and Kate Kerr built this self-sustaining lodge from mostly raw materials found on the property. They have been in the fishing business for a number of years — we worked with them when they operated a lodge in Australia’s Northern Territory at Cape Don. Stonefly Lodge opened three seasons ago and John and Kate are proud of its early acceptance into the Luxury Lodges of New Zealand Collection. One of the highlights of our stay was the opportunity to reunite with Chef Dean Sincock (see page 20). Dean is a longtime friend of Frontiers, having worked with us at other operations. This lodge provides easy access to the famed Motueka and other rivers in the region. Helicopter fly-outs are also available and are reasonably priced because the choppers are based nearby and it’s a short flight to the prime rivers. Unfortunately, Mother Nature has not treated us well since we landed on the South Island. Despite the rain and cloud cover, our guide, Steve, put us on a number of fish.
Owen River Lodge, South Island: December 4 When anglers think of prime fishing in New Zealand, sight casting to large browns in crystal-clear waters on the South Island comes to mind. We were excited to visit Owen River Lodge near Murchison. The owner and operator, Felix Borenstein, fished extensively throughout New Zealand and chose this location for his lodge which comfortably accommodates 12 guests in six spacious suites. There are a multitude of rivers in close driving proximity to Owen River Lodge; and while helicopter fly-outs are available to the back-country, they are not necessary to reach great fishing. Despite inclement weather, the guides put all of the clients with us on fish every day and we had a thoroughly enjoyable fishing experience. Even with the weather, we had trout taking dries and nymphs. I wish that we were more “on our game.” We missed a few and had a couple get away! Nonetheless, we had two solid days of fishing and we managed to put a few in the net with lots of other action.
Fiordland Lodge, South Island: December 14 From Queenstown, we traveled to another lakeside town called Te Anau. This is a region of snow-capped mountains, steep-sided fiords, deep lakes, unbroken forests and tussock grasslands. The best accommodation in the area is Fiordland Lodge. Built by Ron Peacock and his wife, the lodge has sweeping views of the lake and provides comfortable accommodations, fine food and great Kiwi hospitality. The lodge started as a fishing program with a cabin rental and grew to become the premier lodge in the region, catering to a wide range of outdoor interests. While most of their business is known for ecotourism, Fiordland Lodge is an “Orvis Endorsed” fishing operation and Ron is one of the veteran guides. He is a genuine pleasure on the river. It was a treat to spend our last two fishing days in New Zealand with such great guides — Nick in Queenstown and Ron in Te Anau. Both of these guys have more than 20 years of experience on the water and cannot be beat as streamside companions! The trout fishing in the area is amazing with numerous rivers for both browns and rainbows. We hiked into the Von Canyon and had a wonderful day of fishing. It was a phenomenal way to end our trip! While the fish were not large by New Zealand standards, they were feeding aggressively on dries and nymphs and we put more fish in the net than any other day. Adding Ron’s excitement and knowledge was a delight! One of my fish was a nice rainbow caught on a dry and landed after eight jumps. We changed flies four times to get that take! n
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
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Tongariro Lodge Early Bird Summer Special For a limited time, Tongariro Lodge on the North Island of New Zealand is offering a spectacular summer special for anglers interested in some of the world’s best nymph and dry fly fishing for trophy trout. The back-country wilderness helicopter fly-out options are also truly remarkable. Receive a free night when you book four or more nights before October 31, 2014, and travel during the Southern Hemisphere’s prime summer season between November 1, 2014 and March 31, 2015. This offer is a savings of US $400 and includes world-class accommodations, a superb four course dinner and breakfast. From October through April, Tongariro Lodge offers some of the best sighted browns and rainbows found anywhere. Frontiers has represented Tongariro Lodge for many years and we continue to be impressed with its ideal location, world-class guiding, comfortable accommodations and terrific meals. This savings makes the lodge one of the best trout fishing values internationally. To take advantage of this exciting opportunity to fish down under, contact Kristene Fitzgerald at 1-800-245-1950. n
The Tongariro Lodge Crew
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Tips for Taking Stellar Photos in New Zealand
BY BARRY & CATHY BECK Remember to take your camera and charger. Don’t laugh, you have no idea how many times we’ve hosted trips and had anglers catch a fish of a lifetime only to discover that their camera is dead, or back at the lodge, or in the car, or worse yet — at home. Make sure your camera battery is fully charged (a spare battery is also a good idea). Use a fast-write memory card and be sure that it’s in the camera. We prefer a 16 gig card for lots of space. Unless it is waterproof, keep your camera dry. There are lots of waterproof bag options available from places like REI or Roberts Camera in Indianapolis. For us, we always carry a Nikon AW110 pocket camera. It’s waterproof, shockproof, takes great photos and video, and it’s affordable. Great images are almost always a combination of light, composition, and capturing the moment. Of the three, capturing the moment should be your priority. When you see something and you think it would make a great picture, that’s the time to shoot it. Light can change, subjects move, and the moment is lost. If possible though, limit your shooting in the harsh, bright light of mid-day. We find the best light is usually early morning or evening. Fish, especially saltwater species, have scales that can reflect light. Be careful when photographing fish that sunlight is not bouncing off the fish. This will result in hot spots or a blown out fish with no detail. Tweak the angle of the fish to eliminate any reflecting light.
Grip & Grins. A term we use for a happy, smiling angler and trophy fish. This takes a little thought but is perhaps the most popular image from a fishing trip. Remember that a fish breaths underwater, not out. So let’s start with composition. With the fish comfortably underwater take a test shot of the angler. We’re looking for a smile and light falling on the angler, avoid shooting into the sun. If there is shade on the angler’s face from a hat, push it back, remove it, or use fill flash. If the first test shot is good, with camera ready, ask the angler to now lift the fish and smile. Fill the frame with the subject and take two or three shots, horizontal and vertical, then quickly get the fish back in the water. Check to make sure you have the shot and carefully release the fish. Hero Shots. These are shots with the angler holding the fish out at arms’ length. This will distort the size of the fish and the angler’s hands. It usually results in an unrealistic looking picture.
Don’t squeeze the fish in the stomach area and keep your fingers out of the gills. Cradle the fish under the gill area and with your other hand grip the fish just ahead of the tail which is mostly muscle and bone. Change hands for a different angle and use a mesh glove around the tail with uncooperative fish. With digital photography and simple editing software we can do all kinds of things in post-production so be careful of what you delete. For starters, we can straighten crooked horizons, fix bad exposures, crop, sharpen, and go from color to black and white. And don’t forget your smartphone. These cellphones can give us unbelievable photos and video. And with a waterproof case, you can always have a camera handy. n
Fly Fishing the South Island in New Zealand - February 2015 A Barry and Cathy Beck Escorted Trip Imagine wild brown trout sipping dry flies and nymphs in crystal clear streams. Fantastic gourmet cuisine coupled with expert wine pairings in New Zealand’s two finest lodges on the South Island. Join Barry and Cathy Beck for five days of fly fishing at the Riverview Lodge and eight days at the Owen River Lodge. New Zealand is a spectacularly beautiful country and we would recommend you take advantage of what the country has to offer. This trip can be confirmed in its entirety from February 1–18, 2015 or there is flexibility to book into either lodge for just a portion of the trip. Please contact Kristene Fitzgerald at 1-800-245-1950 today to learn more about this incredible trip and to reserve your space.
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
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Fishing Lodging Partners It’s All About the South Island
North Island
Poronui Lodge
Tongariro Lodge
Owen River Lodge
One of our favorite lodges in the Taupo region is Poronui, a vast 16,000-acre ranch with more than 25 miles of fishing waters right on the property. This home water, along with the rivers and streams of the surrounding mountains, makes Poronui one of the most secluded and varied fly fishing locations in all of New Zealand. The lodge has evolved from a rustic fishing camp into a world-class fishing and outdoor recreation facility. An outstanding wine cellar accompanies the fine menus, and a wide range of outdoor activities are available for those who may not want to fish every day.
Another fantastic option in the Lake Taupo area, Tongariro Lodge, is a fishing retreat that features well-appointed, spacious cottages that complement the comfortable main lodge. Surrounding Tongariro is a great variety of water highlighted by four lakes and 25 rivers, including backcountry streams and seldom-fished spring creeks. Raft fishing is available, as are camping and fly-out excursions. With more than two decades experience guiding fishermen on the North Island, it has been said that Tongariro has more access to productive waters than any other lodge in the area.
One of our top recommendations, Owen River Lodge, offers excellent fishing and warm hospitality to anglers in the Nelson / Murchison area. This region is renowned as a fine brown trout fishery, with fish averaging 3 to 6 pounds, although specimens of 9 pounds and heavier are caught and landed each year. Guests stay in attractively furnished, comfortable cottages on the banks of the Owen River, affording them a breathtaking view of the river valley and Mount Owen in the distance. The combination of great fishing and perfect ambiance provided by host Felix Borenstein may be just what you need to enhance your New Zealand holiday.
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Riverview Lodge Riverview Lodge owners and hosts John and Robin Gemmell have more than 30 years’ experience accommodating small groups for firstrate fly fishing and duck hunting. They possess vast knowledge of the Hamner Springs area and have access to a great deal of productive private waters and lands. A specialist in pursuing exceptionally large brown trout, John and his guides ensure an outstanding angling experience to all guests who make a trip to Riverview Lodge.
Experience
Stonefly Lodge
Fiordland Lodge
This majestic property sits high on the banks of the Motueka River and offers luxurious accommodations, exquisite views and world-class brown trout fishing. It is also mostly self-sufficient and completely “off the grid.” Built almost exclusively with materials available on the property, Stonefly Lodge produces its own power through on-site solar, wind and hydroelectric generation. Owners John and Kate Kerr are wonderful hosts, and they round out the service by employing outstanding guides from the Nelson Lakes region. The cuisine and service are unparalleled.
Set at the edge of legendary Fiordland National Park in the south of the island and with breathtaking views of Lake Te Anau and the surrounding mountains, Fiordland Lodge offers true wilderness fishing on more than 40 uncrowded rivers and streams. All lie within a oneand-a-half-hour drive from the lodge, and many more options are accessible by helicopter. Ron and Robynne Peacock have been fishing and guiding for more than three decades and have an intimate knowledge of the area’s rivers, mountains and forests. The guides at Fiordland specialize in upstream sight fishing for rainbows and browns.
Kawhaka Lodge Nestled under the breathtaking backdrop of the Southern Alps of New Zealand and built to complement the natural environment, Kawhaka Lodge offers luxury boutique accommodation and the fishing experience of a lifetime. The Westland District is home to some of the finest wild brown and rainbow trout in the world, and offers a natural beauty that is quintessential New Zealand. Legendary guide and Kawhaka owner Tony Allan has assembled a top-notch fishing guide team and, along with his wife Marj, has created one of the premier operations on the South Island’s west coast. n
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
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DiscoverNew Zealand Its Land and People When the Maori people sailed their canoes across the Pacific to New Zealand, they saw the geysers and volcanic activity of the North Island and the expansive, snow-covered Southern Alps that form the spine of the South Island. They named this land “Aotearoa” (Land of the Long White Cloud) and made it their home. Centuries later, the Europeans arrived. Homesick for the Crown, they bestowed familiar names on the areas in which they settled: Christchurch, Wellington, Queenstown and New Plymouth. The New Zealand we visit today is an amalgam of these two cultures, molded by the fabric of this diverse landscape. New Zealand is blessed with stunning alpine vistas, golden beaches, rocky sea cliffs and verdant meadows and hillsides where sheep graze placidly. The visitor, initially overwhelmed by beauty, soon discovers that the people exude a warm hospitality unlike anything he or she has experienced anywhere. New Zealand always has more delightful sights to discover, for both first-time visitors and those making their 10th trip. Frontiers’s South Pacific experts have explored many niche areas not found on most itineraries and are able to customize an unforgettable experience for any traveler. n
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Judy riding the Otago Trail!
Hiking and Biking in Incredible New Zealand BY JUDY GREENE My husband, Dick, and I were lucky enough to spend three weeks in beautiful New Zealand this past April and May. We experienced sparkling weather throughout (only one rainy day in Wellington on our very last day!) and were able to enjoy several outdoor excursions. These were our favorites:
Day Trip on the Queen Charlotte Walkway Perched at the northernmost end of the South Island, the beautiful Queen Charlotte Walkway is a 42-mile walking track along the topmost end of the South Island. This beautiful walk, renowned for the stunning views, contrasting landscapes and wide variety of natural beauty and wildlife, is one of the most popular walks for visitors to the Marlborough Sounds region of the South Island. On a visit to New Zealand in 2010, we set out to walk the full length of the track, overnighting at a few wonderful accommodations along the trail. Our April 2014 trek was an abbreviated version, but nonetheless enjoyable. After an early breakfast, we boarded the ferry taking us to Ship’s Cove, the starting point of our four-and-a-half hour journey. It was good to note that the trail continues to be well-maintained and clearly marked. On this beautiful day, the birds were in full song, the views across the Marlboro Sound were stunning, and all was right with the world. Before we knew it, we were at our pick-up point and on the ferry back to Picton, vowing to return when we could walk the full length of the trail once again. Note: As we had been on the Queen Charlotte Walkway on previous visits, we did not have a guide on this trek. We do
suggest having a guide if this is your first experience on the hike, as he or she will offer a wealth of information on wildlife, foliage and general trail history and geography.
Riding the Otago Central Rail Trail Following the route of the former Otago Central Railway, the 93-mile Otago Central Rail Trail offers both locals and travelers an exciting walking and biking experience across a diverse and picturesque region of New Zealand’s South Island. Having recently come off the Queen Charlotte track, Dick and I decided to bike a small section of that trail which we could squeeze into our itinerary. Our luck was holding out, as the chosen day dawned bright and sunny. After a quick breakfast at the Post Office Restaurant (yes, it was once a post office and our funky, fun accommodation next door was once the Postmaster’s House), we walked to Bike It Now to meet Deidre, one of the shop’s owners. She outfitted us with comfortable new bikes, then drove us to the starting point of our ride. What a beautiful ride! The bikes were comfortable, the weather was perfect, and the beauty of the Otago countryside unrolling in front of us was spectacular. It was autumn in New Zealand and the leaves were in full color. We stopped for an outdoor lunch at a small cafe before continuing onward through some of the most stunning scenery we have been privileged to see in New Zealand. The day flew by and before we knew it we were back in Clyde. This day on the trail gave us an enticing taste of what the full Otago experience has to offer. Our New Zealand wish list just keeps on growing! n
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Helicopter excursions from Matakauri
The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs, The Farm at Cape Kid Three Stunning New Zealand Properties
Our staff and clients thoroughly enjoy these remarkable properties owned and operated by the Robertson family. Boasting incredible accommodations, delectable Kiwi cuisine, unsurpassed spa services, the best golf courses and a myriad of other outdoor activities, The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs, The Farm at Cape Kidnapers and Matakauri Lodge should be on every international traveler’s wish list! We had a chance to chat with Managing Director, Jay Robertson … Mike Fitzgerald, Jr.: Jay, you are an expert fly fisherman, organic farmer and a hospitality leader who believes that success depends on culture. What attracted you to New Zealand and inspired your family’s investment in these three great properties? Julian Robertson: My father first visited New Zealand in 1977. During that time my family lived in Auckland and traveled all over the country. In 1995, my father came over and was amazed at the land and the exchange rate at the time. He purchased the Kauri Cliffs property with no other intentions but to keep it as an investment and run the property as a sheep and cattle farm. Years later, a friend visited the land and insisted that a golf course be built. My father met with David Harmon and a plan was hatched to build 18 holes on the property.
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Along the way, my mother insisted that accommodation for the new course be built as well. The lodge and golf course opened in 2001. We then found Cape Kidnappers and decided it was a perfect spot to situate another lodge and golf course. We also found two vineyards, one of which we still own, Dry River. It was always our intention to include a Queenstown property. It took some time to find a suitable location, but in 2008 we discovered Matakauri and thought that it would be an excellent South Island addition for the portfolio. The lodge opened in August 2010. MF: From one avid angler to another, what are the fishing opportunities at or near each location?
JR: The great thing about New Zealand is that there is no shortage of water and fishing opportunities. With warmer coastal waters than most other parts of the country, Kauri Cliffs has exceptional saltwater options. There are great opportunities nearby to target yellowtail kingfish and kahawi, or go further afield and try for pelagics like marlin and tuna. Cape Kidnappers has access to both exceptional saltwater and trout fishing experiences. Within about an hour’s drive of Cape Kidnappers there are more than 20 rivers that guests can fly fish for both brown and rainbow trout. The Tukituki and Mohaka are two of my favorites. Each summer there is a run of longfin albacore tuna that enter the bay. This offers a great opportunity to chase these saltwater speedsters with fly rods.
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Kauri Cliffs Main Lodge
nappers and Matakauri Lodge At Matakauri, we are fortunate to have many lakes and rivers on our doorsteps. The famous Greenstone, Caples and Routeburn rivers are within a 45-minute drive of the property. Taking a helicopter in this area can be nothing short of spectacular. Fiordland Park is nearby and provides access to hundreds of kilometers of fishable water. This is one of my favorite places in the world to fly fish for trout. MF: Kauri Cliffs, Cape Kidnappers and Matakauri provide a wide range of activities for nonanglers and nongolfers. Tell me about some of the other pursuits. JR: Each property has so much to offer visitors. Firstly, they are each in unique parts of the country. Kauri Cliffs has three private beaches and 30-plus kilometers of walking trails. The Bay of Islands has some of the best boating, scuba diving and snorkeling in the world. Cape Kidnappers is situated in wine country and has more than 100 vineyards within an hour’s drive of the front gate.
The property is a nature reserve with 70-plus kiwi birds onsite. In addition, it is home to the world’s largest land based Gannet bird colony where guests can walk within arm’s reach of 10,000 of these birds. Matakauri is in Queenstown, which is the adventure capital of the world. From jet boating to visiting the world renowned Milford Sound, there is no shortage of beauty or activities here. Each location has great spa services as well. MF: Highly acclaimed chefs dazzle guests with terrific culinary delights. Is there one dish at one property that is your favorite? JR: Each property and chef has a special feel and flavor. I can say that some of my favorite meals include New Zealand lamb, Nelson scallops, South Island venison and kingfish. MF: Personally, I like to visit New Zealand in early spring or toward late
autumn to avoid the peak summer months of January through March. Are there special things to see and do at your properties then? JR: I agree. My favorite months are October and November. The brown trout rivers open October 1st and the rainbow rivers open on the 1st of November. The fish have had a nice break over the winter and are hungry and ripe for the taking. I caught my largest trout ever on opening day two years ago. In addition, spring is in the air. Lambs are being born in every farm paddock. The New Zealand native trees and shrubs are in full bloom and colors abound. The weather has the potential to be as good as any summer month. n
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
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Sunrise at Kauri Cliffs
Mike with a Callaway instead of a Sage!
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www.frontierstravel.com | 1-800-245-1950 | +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK
The challenging seaside links of Cape Kidnappers
World Class Golf in the Most Idyllic Settings New Zealand is emerging as a serious, world-class golf destination. Golf has been a large part of the Kiwi culture for many years and it continues to be one of the most popular outdoor activities in the country for both men and women. Famous pros like Frank Nobilo, Michael Campbell and veteran Bob Charles have traveled to play in the top international tournaments. There are venerable courses like Wairakei and Paraparaumu Beach that have been around for more than three decades. A handful of absolutely awesome courses have been built in New Zealand since 2000 that are acclaimed gems ranking in the World’s Top 100.
NORTH ISLAND Kauri Cliffs was designed and built by David Harman of Golf Course Consultants, Orlando, Florida. The par 72 championship golf course measures 7,119 yards / 6,510 meters and offers five sets of tees to challenge every skill level. Fifteen holes overlook the Pacific Ocean, six of which are played alongside cliffs which plunge to the sea. The beautiful inland holes wind through marsh, forest and farmland. Cape Kidnappers was designed by legendary golf architect Tom Doak. The Cape Kidnappers par 71 golf course measures 7,119 yards (6,510 meters) and will challenge golfers of all skill levels. Completed in 2004, this spectacular New Zealand golf course has been hailed as one of the great modern marvels in golf.
The Kinloch Club welcomes all golfing guests to experience this outstanding Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course, located in the central North Island of New Zealand. Only a 20-minute drive from the tourist town of Taupo, The Kinloch Club has become a “must play” on any golfer’s itinerary who wishes to experience the true challenge of a championship layout golf course.
SOUTH ISLAND The Hills golf course near Queenstown was designed by Darby Partners and opened in 2007 to host the New Zealand Open. Set on 500 acres of land across a glacial valley the layout, highlights the dramatic elevation changes and rocky schist outcrops that are a feature of the area. This championship layout provides a serious challenge for accomplished players while thoughtful and considerate design means that the golf course is equally enjoyable for golfers of all abilities. Jack’s Point championship golf course, carved from former high country station farmland, backdropped by the Remarkables Mountain range and overlooking Queenstown’s Lake Wakatipu, is billed as one of the world’s most spectacular courses. The John Darby designed 18-hole par 72 course provides a range of challenges for both experienced and beginner golfers. The 6,388 meter undulating course follows natural contours and features tussock grasslands, dramatic rocky outcrops and steep bluffs offset by striking alpine and lake views. We welcome the opportunity to incorporate a few rounds into your itinerary. n
WE SHARE YOUR PASSION.
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New Zealand One of our favorite Kiwi Chefs
Dean Sincock
I have been in the kitchen for almost 20 years. I started my cooking career in Christchurch where I did a short culinary course, and then headed to Australia where I did my apprenticeship in a small, very well reviewed Fare Go Gourmet Restaurant in the lower north shore of Sydney. I worked there for four years. Then it was off to England for two years of fun, work and travel. On my return to Sydney I worked at Lucio’s Italian Restaurant in Paddington for a couple of years. After that I worked at Absolute Ambrosia Catering where I worked for four years as the Head Chef, doing the catering for Deutcshe Bank and the Government of NSW…plus numerous private clients in and around Sydney.
Cuisine In 2002, I returned to New Zealand, spending that summer working at the Boatshed Cafe in Mapua, just on the outskirts of Nelson. I got a call from a friend telling me there was a job available at Lake Rotoroa Lodge. I cooked the Managers (Brent and Sharleen Hyde) a dinner and signed a contract. I then worked there for the next five summer seasons. In the winter months (summer in the Northern Hemisphere), I spent time working with Frontiers training chefs at the Ponoi River on the Kola Peninsula in Russia and at Bristol Bay Lodge in Alaska. I also spent some time cooking for Frontiers in Pittsburgh. From 2006 to present, I have been working the European summer in the south of France on the Roi Soleil - a luxury canal barge cruising the Canal du Midi. I am cooking for discerning clients in one of the world’s great food and wine regions. This year, I had the opportunity to go to
the kingdom of Bhutan. I was asked to do some consultancy work at Zhiwa Ling Hotel in the Paro Valley for three months. During my stay I spent most of my time in the kitchen with the local chefs, teaching and guiding them on ways to better utilize the local produce — looking into ways where they can start to be a little more sustainable; not relying so much on imported produce. Currently, I am Head Chef at Stonefly Lodge, a 5-star boutique fly fishing lodge in the heart of the South Island’s brown trout capital. Contact Frontiers for a great fishing trip to Stonefly. I will make sure that the cuisine complements the wonderful scenery and fishing in our region! n
The Best Meal I Ever Ate BY SUE SZAKELYHIDI When asked what my favorite meal in New Zealand has been, lamb immediately comes to mind. Though it’s their exquisite breakfasts that really make my heart flutter. At The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, I was served a simply delicious French toast with mascarpone and roasted pears. Served with a side of New Zealand’s Manuka honey, I can’t imagine starting the day off any better. Since I also enjoy desserts, a totally different and very yummy end to my meal was a blue cheese panna cotta served with crystallized apples and ginger compliments of the chef from Poronui. n
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www.frontierstravel.com | 1-800-245-1950 | +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK
The Wine Steward at Hans Herzog
Would You Like Some
Wine with Lunch?
Three great New Zealand wineries that are “must” stops. The wine production in New Zealand is tiny on the world stage, but stands out nonetheless. If you took all of the wineries in the country and put them together, they would only be the sixth largest in the United States. Having said this, though, New Zealand winemakers have a passion and desire to be an international contender and are ardently committed, just as those in Napa must have been many years ago. Most of the country’s more than 500 winemakers are boutique, small scale operations producing low volumes of niche varietals. New Zealand has 10 major wine-producing areas. The grape varieties, soil structure and mini-climates in these regions are varied, producing a broad spectrum of wines. Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay are New Zealand’s two premium wine-growing regions. A number of the wineries have quaint cafés and bistros that are only open for lunch and offer an ideal combination of elegant tastings and exquisite cuisine. Read on for our three great suggestions. Allan Scott Family Winemakers was one of the first wineries in Marlborough (South Island), and its Twelve Trees Restaurant features a seasonal menu with fresh, local cuisine prepared by Head Chef Matt Gibson. We enjoyed a wild boar terrine with pear chutney and a special Asian chicken salad matched with appropriate wines from the Prestige Collection — a great Wallops Chardonnay and a smooth Hounds Pinot Noir. Also in Marlborough, we visited Hans Herzog Winery, which has received a “Best of Award of Excellence” from Wine Spectator magazine. The restaurant here is best known for a wonderful degustation menu that is three or five courses. We chose from the Bistro Menu and were served a few small
plates that were delicious — each matched with excellent wines. Our favorite was the poached ”Beacon Grove” organic, free range egg with wilted spinach and portobello mushroom on Agria-Parmesan puree with a 2011 Chardonnay. The restaurant also has an amazing Mediterranean garden with views of the vineyard. Hawke’s Bay on the North Island is best known for its Chardonnay and Merlot grapes. Syrah is also coming along nicely. We loved Clearview Estate Winery, a small boutique winery and café owned and operated by Tim Turvey. When Tim purchased the property more than 30 years ago, his intention was a self-sustaining farm for his family. After assisting a local farmer with cultivating a few vines, he committed himself to making his lovely seaside property a winery, and today it is one of the most acclaimed in New Zealand. Tim, a self-proclaimed former hippie, worked hard building his brand. We had a private tour of the winery and tasted several of his wines right from the barrels just prior to bottling. His lovely cafe was a great place for lunch, and the wine continued to flow, with Tim matching wines for us with each course. We loved the corn-fed, free range chicken risotto with roast pumpkin, grilled leeks and Manchego cheese matched with a Reserve Chardonnay 2012. Let us make your reservation. n
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Final Thoughts on New Zealand... Air New Zealand now allows the use of handheld portable electronic devices including tablets, smartphones, e-readers and mp3 players during all phases of flight provided the devices are in flight mode. The new freedom to use the devices extends across the airline’s A320 and Boeing 787-9, 777-200 and 777-300 aircraft, with plans to include regional turbo prop and Boeing 767-300 fleets following Civil Aviation Authority approval. Hollyford Track is launching a new two-day “Ocean to Alps” hike for the 2014-15 season offered only through travel agents. With group sizes set at a minimum of six and a maximum of 16 people, the trip includes a helicopter flight in, comfortable accommodation in a fully-catered private wilderness lodge, a jet boat trip and, of course, walking with experienced guides to bring the forest, coastal areas and personalities of the Hollyford to life. Qantas international premium passengers passing through Queenstown Airport will be able to enjoy the benefits of their own airline lounge. The Manaia Lounge – Maori for Protector of Land, Sea and Sky – will cater for up to 75 guests and offer views of the Remarkables. Features will include comfortable and stylish furnishings, dedicated bathrooms, free Wi-Fi, newspapers, hot and cold beverages including bar service and freshly prepared food. The lounge will be located on the first floor of the terminal building. Held every four years, the Cricket World Cup 2015 begins on February 14 and Auckland’s Eden Park will host a semi-final game on March 24. Despite being great traditional rivals on the pitch, New Zealand is co-hosting the ICC Cricket World Cup with Australia.
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The Lord of the Rings movie trilogy and The Hobbit trilogy were filmed entirely in New Zealand. Now you can experience the stunning locations and lands that starred as Middle-earth. These movies were filmed in some of New Zealand’s most beautiful places with filming locations. Follow the path that the filmmakers took throughout New Zealand to experience the journey that was taken to create this series of movies. In the Bay of Islands, you can experience an incredible opportunity to swim with wild dolphins in their natural environment. This intimate half day cruise seeks out the many playful wild dolphins within the sheltered waters of the Bay of Islands. Jump into the warmest waters in New Zealand and snorkel with these majestic and inquisitive creatures. The purposebuilt dolphin vessel is complete with a low viewing deck, water jet engines, underwater microphone and experienced crew with an intimate knowledge of dolphin behavior. Cruises operate between October and April with a maximum of 35 passengers per cruise. Swimming with dolphins is also available from Kaikoura. Marvel at Mother Nature’s light display as you glide silently through the starry wonderland of the Glowworm Grotto. Meander underground along the Waitomo River and gaze at the myriad of glowworm lights that make up the Glowworm Grotto. As you enter this galaxy of tiny living lights, you will immediately experience a serene ambience and be fascinated and intrigued by the tiny glowworms that light the way.
Only a one-hour drive from the heart of Nelson, the Abel Tasman National Park is New Zealand’s only coastal national park, boasting golden sandy beaches and clear turquoise water. The sheltered bays are popular for cruising, sailing and sea kayaking. On land, the Abel Tasman Coast Track follows the coastline through lush native bush, over limestone cliffs and along beautiful beaches. Cape Kidnappers is the largest and most accessible mainland gannet colony in the world. Visitors will see these amazing birds nesting, preening, flying and performing the famous recognition ritual “dance of the gannets.” Whale Watching tours from Kaikoura offer exciting, up-close encounters with the world’s largest toothed predator, the giant sperm whale. Giant sperm whales are the stars of the show and year-round residents, but you may also encounter New Zealand fur seals, pods of dusky dolphins and the endangered wandering albatross. Depending on the season visitors may also see migrating humpback whales, pilot whales, blue whales and southern right whales. Kaikoura often hosts the world’s largest dolphin, the orca and is home to the world’s smallest and rarest, the Hector’s beaked whale. Kaikoura also attracts the largest concentration and variety of sea birds on mainland New Zealand including 13 species of albatross, 14 varieties of petrel and seven types of shearwater. Just outside of Dunedin City is probably the best possible viewing location for Hooker’s sea lions, yelloweyed penguins, blue penguins, a breeding colony of New Zealand fur seals and royal albatross. n
www.frontierstravel.com | 1-800-245-1950 | +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK
Your Airline Connection to New Zealand When traveling as far afield as New Zealand, you don’t want to leave any of your air travel details to chance – or the internet! Our team of air travel experts is standing by to coordinate all flight arrangements from your home city to Auckland and beyond. The preferred air carrier for our exciting fishing expeditions to New Zealand is Air New Zealand, the only carrier with non-stop service from the U.S. mainland to Auckland. Treat yourself to the luxury of Business Premier Class, featuring all forward-facing leather seats in a traditional 1 – 2 – 1 herringbone layout with available memory foam mattresses for a superior sleep experience. The stylish Spaceseat* takes top honors for most innovative premium economy seat design. These pod-style seats are clad in white leather (to reflect the colors of the onboard mood lighting) and arranged in a 2 – 2 – 2 configuration that has led some passengers to mistake the Spaceseat section for the
business class cabin. “Outer Space” seats are staggered for privacy and easier aisle access and “Inner Space” seats are perfect for couples who prefer to face each other. The armrests in the center section can join together to create a dining table for two and then drop down to provide extra space to curl up and sleep. Seats slide forward within their own shell to offer recline without allowing the seat in front to infringe on the personal space of the passenger behind. And to add a touch of whimsy to an already novel seat design, Air New Zealand has eliminated the standard footrests on the Spaceseats in favor of a glittery purple beanbag ottoman nicknamed Otto! Upgraded meal service, audio / video ondemand entertainment on a 10-plus inch personal screen, and access to the premium check in counters complete the Spaceseat experience. n *Featured on Boeing 777-300 aircraft only as of press time.
Los Angeles Airport … Fishing with Dynamite BY MIKE JR. AND KRISTENE FITZGERALD One of the reasons New Zealand is such a wonderful place is that it is so far away. For our east coast clients, it is a long trip, but well worth the journey. Air New Zealand pretty much has the monopoly for nonstop flights from the United States with gateways in Los Angeles and San Francisco. For our trip Down Under in late 2013, we routed through LAX, and sometimes flight schedules dictate a long layover in Los Angeles. From our point of view, this can be looked at as a positive. There are a number of decent hotels within a mile of LAX and many offer attractively priced day rooms. After flying all the way to California, it is nice to take a walk, grab lunch, rest and shower before the long flight across the Pacific. It is tempting to hang out at the hotel for the afternoon, but we highly recommend that our clients take the 15-minute taxi or the $5 Ocean Express Shuttle to Manhattan Beach. This cool seaside community has a lovely pier, awesome restaurants, quaint shops and a beautiful beach. We settled into the small, but trendy Fishing with Dynamite – a gem of a seafood restaurant. At the Raw Bar, we enjoyed Kusshi and Komo Gway oysters from British Columbia, mahi mahi fish tacos with avocado and salsa verde and a bucket of steamed clams with chorizo, tomato and vermouth with the most amazing grilled focaccia bread. All were washed down with a nice California Chardonnay and a craft pilsner beer. It was great to get away from LAX and the monster hotels for a nice afternoon in the sun. n
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UNITED STATES OFFICE 600 Warrendale Rd., Gibsonia, PA 15044 Toll-free 1-800-245-1950 Phone 724-935-1577 Fax 724-935-5388 Email info@frontierstravel.com Website www.frontierstravel.com
EUROPEAN OFFICE Kennet Cottage, Kempsford Gloucestershire, GL7 4EQ, England Tel +44 (0)845 299 6212 Fax +44 (0)1285 700 322 Email info@frontierstrvl.co.uk Website www.frontierstrvl.co.uk
Copyright © 2014. Frontiers International Travel. All rights reserved.
Photo Credits: Frontiers Staff, Barry and Cathy Beck, R. Valentine Atkinson, New Zealand Tourism, Poronui, Owen River Lodge.
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