FRV Bali 12.3 Dec'15-Feb'16 by FRV Bali

FA S H I O N R E S TAU R A N T S & V I L L A S

Rp. 75.000

E D I T I O N 1 2 .3 D E C - F E B

RO O M S

TRAV E L

FAS HI ON

D I NI NG

New Bali Hotels Tirta Naga Sunset View

Bangkok New Zealand Cambodia

The Village People A Gift from God

El Kabron The Stones Bali Senshu

BALI & SOUTHEAST ASIAN STYLE

FA S H I O N R E S TAU R A N T S & V I L L A S BALI & SOUTHEAST ASIAN STYLE

EDITION 12.3 DEC - FEB

CO N T E N TS

QUAL I TY STE AK? Meaty goodness in Legian

C U CA AT S OC I E TY Dining experience in Surabaya

BAL I CAF ES Outstanding casual newcomers

E L KABRON Sunset season on the Bukit

D RAGONF LY

Refreshed and ready for business

BAL I 'S F I NEST

Great new hotels on the island

VI L L A S E MARAP U RA

One of Bali's best seaside villas

M E Y R I C K'S KI TC HE N Tasty times at home with Will

D OU BL E P L E AS U RE Two of the finest spas in Indonesia

VI L L A S U NS E T VI E W A Bali villa with a difference

96 10

THE WATE R D RAG ON Bali's Villa Tirta Naga

FAS HI ON Seminyak Village

JA K A RTA'S NE WEST The Fairmont opens its doors

E L I T E HAP P E NI NG S Excitment in the Phuket villa scene

D U S I T THANI Grace and tradition in Bangkok

FASHI O N Andaru couture

112

BA N GKOK MARRI OTT A world of comfort and convenience

SO F I TE L SAI G ON Style in the heart of the south

108

F RA NKL AND The Indonesian purveyor of style

136

KOMOD O ADVE NTU RE A journey through Indonesia's jewel

BA N G KOK'S BU STL E

128

Fun times in the City of Angels

THE ME KONG

132

Travels from Saigon to Siam Reap

A CA N T ERBU RY TAL E

140

Driving New Zealand's South Island

F LY I N G HI G H A mountain scenic flight in NZ

144

18 B ITS & PIE C ES

24 I N S I G H T H OA D

56 MARC ANTONIO

58 W I N E

60 LUXE FO OD

62 C H E ES E

106 FASHIO N BITS

74 P U L L M A N BA L I

124 INSIGHT N UN ES

110 FAS H I O N SW F

1126 INSIGHT M AS ON

146 M T B RO M O

150 DIR E CTORY

164 L AST WO R D

P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Pe tite nge t 12A, Ke rob oka n, B a li, I nd one sia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 ema il: info@frvb a li.c om www.frvb a li.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphi cs C o o rdi nato r Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvb a li.c om) P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e , Pur na i nfo@frvb a li.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, Ba gus Oka Mark eti ng Oc hy (oc hy@frvb a li.c om | sa le s@frvb a li.c om) A dmi ni strati o n T he re sia , Poojie , Swa n Co ntri buto rs Ra je nd ra , Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Ve ronika K, He rma n Von Be r nha rd i Agua yo, Ra tih DP. S ubscri pti o n Ye a rly sub sc rip tion a va ila b le in I nd one sia - R up ia h 280,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvb a li.c om Se nd e - ma il to the a b ove for d e ta ils. Co nsul ti ng Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvb a li.c om) L eg al Asso ci ates Nyoma n Ge d e Anta guna SE, SH, MH ACS La w Offic e J l. Me rta na d i 88A, Kuta , B a li. Te l: 082145689996 Fashi o n Restaurants and Vi l l as Bal i mag azi ne i s an i ndependent, q uarterl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne F ebruary 15, 2016

FRVBali

FR V Ba li m a ga zin e is pr in te d u n de r lic e n se d tr a de m a r k . N o pa r t of th is m a ga zin e sh o u l d b e re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A ll r igh ts re se r ve d. A r tic le s re f le c t th e opin ion s of th e a u th or s, a n d n ot n e c e ssa r ily t h o s e of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Ba li m a ga zin e is distr ibu te d by; P T K u bu Du a M e dia (I n don e s i a ) , P e r iplu s-J a va Book s (I n don e sia ), a n d P T I n doprom (I n don e sia ). Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

FR V B ali Magaz ine

E dit ion 12. 3

D ec â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; 15 - Feb â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; 1 6

E D I TOR’S NOT E FRV Bali – IT TAKES YOU PLACES

Bali still has some of the best accommodation options in the region and possibly the world. It’s easy to forget this as one goes through the hum-drum of real life. Just last weekend I had the pleasure of staying in one Bali’s top villa complexes in Ubud, The Viceroy Bali. Being a family run business, it’s not only a five star experience from start to finish, it’s also intimate, cosy and offers a minimum of fuss, and an excellent weekend away, for me in any case, from the hectic south Bali life. The service and dining especially are impeccable and as good as any five-star establishment you could find and so relaxed you just didn’t feel like going anywhere. No wonder The Viceroy is always full of honeymooners and couples.

This got me thinking about how fortunate we are living on this island and for the people coming here on luxury holidays. There are so many amazing places to discover. You could spend most of a lifetime finding them and a small fortune experiencing them, but it must be said, you won’t be regretting it sometime in the future looking back on your life. The only regret would be if you hadn’t. This edition of FRV Bali takes us to many of those incredible establishments around the island and the region. Both the best dining and accommodation establishments are covered and experienced by our team of competent writers and reported right here back to you.

This edition we visit Bangkok, New Zealand, Bromo and Komodo Island for quick getaways. Some top restaurants in Bali, Surabaya and Jakarta. Equally impressive accommodations around Indonesia and the region and speak to fascinating people on Bali who make this island tick and the incredible place it is. There is always something for everyone and this edition is no different. We trust you will enjoy the ever changing and evolving FRV Bali magazine. Read on... And any comments, suggestions or gripes direct to this email: editor@frvbali.com

F RV C O N T R I B U TO R S DAVID TRAUTS This English correspondent founded The Beat magazine and then the group’s flagship, FRV. He always enjoys new experiences and the freedom of the getaway – sometimes far, sometimes close, but always fun. Good food, good wine, good people and times are the essence of an enjoyable life—you don’t need many or much, it’s the quality that counts.

ERZA S.T. Erza ST writes for many Indonesian publications and is a regular bon-vivant in his home town of Jakarta. He has been the head honcho of the Indonesian Opera Society for many years and can be caught at many of the classical concerts around the country. He loves winter in European countries as much as he loves good food and conversation in the best restaurants in Jakarta.

THOMAS JONES Travel writing is an admirable and important profession that takes a lot of dedication, hard work and a smidgen of luck to make it pay. Yet despite the hardships, Thomas sees it as a calling to take the opportunities that arise and share the lessons learned with the FRV community. This issue it’s off to New Zealand for a trip around the South Island and a flight up and over Mt Cook and back again.

SALVADOR B New Yorker, U.S.A., moved to Bali in nineteen eighty three, painter, writer, musician and song writer. Through the years he has been noted as a true renaissance man in that perspective. As a writer he has contributed many an articles on the life styles of Bali as well as interviews, openings, fashion and food reviews.

NICK WALTON Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

VERONIKA K Veronika is not only a journalist, but also a professional mermaid and a travel junkie. Praguebased, she has been living life in flip-flops since 2008. If not on her laptop forging words, she can be found playing in the ocean or practicing her headstands. Vero’s hobbies are breakfast, lunch & dinner and writing about herself in the third person.

BITS & PIECES ‘TIS THE TIME TO BE MERRY! The festive season is fast approaching again and this year FRV Bali will be kicking the season into full gear with a special pre-Christmas gathering on Friday December 18 from 8pm till late at the enchanting Spanish restaurant, La Sal on Jalan Drupadi, Seminyak. The event is happily sponsored by our friends at Belvedere and Chandon with delicious Spanish tapas and canapes from our hosts for our invited guests from 8pm. The evening will be getting into full swing around 10pm with DJs Poornima and Kevin. It should be a blast with a very fashionable, Bali restaurants and villas kinda crowd. There are plenty of festive season dinners, set menus and cocktail parties coming soon. Christmas lunches and New Year’s gala events are hot on the list. Find out all the details by going to our news section on www.frvbali.com.

JIMBARAN TO JAVA The beauty of East Java has long been neglected by visitors from Bali, put off by the long, arduous and sometimes dangerous drive on the Gilimanuk main highway. But all that could change with a new fast-boat service starting in December which will ferry people from Jimbaran Bay to Banyuwangi in just two hours, half the time it takes to get there by road and ferry. The owners have set themselves the target of 400 passengers a day in an effort to raise awareness (and money) for the East Java region’s mountains, beaches, forests and all round untouched natural beauty. www.marinasrikandi.com

ONE MORE FOR ONE ELEVEN The uber-chic, adults only, private sanctuary in Seminyak known as One Eleven, welcomes Helen Fox as the new GM at the helm in Bali, where she will oversee the running of the bespoke resort and its flagship Japanese restaurant, Shiro as well as their invilla resort, bvilla, all in the capital of cool, Seminyak. With over 33 years of experience in the hospitality trade, British born and bred Helen has travelled the world living and working in such varied locations as Goa, China, the Middle East and here in Bali, where she was in the employ of The Legian and The Chedi Club, both highly esteemed hotels and resorts. Helen’s looking forward to the challenge ahead, saying; “I love Bali and have always considered the Balinese hospitality the best in the world. So I am excited to be back in happening Seminyak.”

BITS & PIECES

DARK SKIES OVERHEAD Indonesia’s premier adventure cruising operator, SeaTrek Sailing Adventures, is offering a very special boat journey through the waters of eastern Indonesia to witness a total solar eclipse aboard the Ombak Putih, a traditional 42m wooden schooner outfitted with 12 cabins and offering the highest levels of service and comforts. The total solar eclipse of Wednesday 9 March 2016 tracks right over the Equator in the beautiful, remote Moluccas island group of the Indonesian archipelago. Titled “Under Tropical Skies – The Total Eclipse

Experience” this 12-day cruise is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience a rare celestial event in the company of celestial navigator Jeffrey Mellefont, and to cruise the waters and lands of the “Spice Islands”, where guests can visit remote islands and their peoples, snorkel pristine reefs, laze on tropical islands and swim in crystal clear seas to their heart’s content, while being waited on by a professional crew of sailors and stewards. www.seatrekbali.com

FIVE-STAR VILLAGE LIFE In October, Bali took a big sophisticated step forward in fashion, style and opulence with the opening of Seminyak Village, a brand new and glitzy shopping mall deep in the heart of Seminyak. The mall offers over 60 prime retail stores which are now home to high fashion retailers such as Farah Khan, Rococo, Optik Tunggal, Aldo, Lily Jean, Bamboo Blonde, and some of the island’s best food outlets like Wahrung, Duck King, and the latest and much anticipated offering from the Sarong Group, Tiger Palm. With it’s unique position so close to the central nervous system of Petitenget and Oberoi and all the great venues and beaches on offer in the area, Seminyak’s footprint on the world stage of fashion and fun just got a whole lot deeper. www.seminyakvillage.com

BITS & PIECES

TWO IN ONE BEACHFRONT Overlooking a near-deserted beach and the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, the contemporary-styled Seseh Beach Villas offer guests the opportunity to witness traditional rural life in the pretty fishing village of Seseh, while enjoying sophisticated facilities, divine meals prepared by the villas’ talented chef, and the services of a team of caring staff including a complimentary car and driver. The perfectly symmetrical thatch-roofed Seseh Beach Villa I comprises a pair of two-storey buildings, with a living and dining room in between, a delightful rooftop terrace, and five air-conditioned, ensuite bedrooms. Outside, a flat lawn and open-sided dining and living pavilions are situated at either end of a 16.5-metre swimming pool. The six-bedroom Seseh Beach villa II is equally charming. The villa features a private 14-metre pool with a sun deck and relaxation pavilion, indoor and outdoor dining rooms, spacious grounds and a kids’ bunkroom. Together the villas offer 11 bedrooms and are ideal for large weddings and special events. www.sesehbeachvillas.com

HIGH TEA AT METIS JARDIN The new Le Jardin at Seminyak’s Métis Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery opened a few months ago and it has added an extra dimension to the famed fine dining restaurant. A trendsetter in Bali’s fine dining and nightlife scene, Métis partnered with a famed landscape design company to augment its open air dining experience. From 4pm to 7pm seven days a week High Tea will be served with a selection of packages for two to tempt savoury and sweet desires. With prawn and cucumber, and other assorted sandwiches, spring rolls, scones and cream and an abundance of delightful cakes and macaroons the afternoon tea is surely a time to unwind and experience the garden in its full splendor. “The new Le Jardin constitutes a deepening of the sensory experience that defines Métis,” says Managing Director Said Alem. Our award-winning chefs Nicolas “Doudou” Tourneville and Desyanto Nugroho delight the senses with their culinary artistry, while our garden exposes the beauty and romance of Bali’s splendid greenery.” Le Jardin is also available for private gatherings and can accommodate a party of up to fifty guests. www.metisbali.com

INSIGHT HOSPITALITY

HANNAH HOAD LIFE IS A BEACH FOR THIS BALI BABY, AND WHO BETTER THAN SOMEONE WITH A BACKGROUND THAT SUITS THE STYLE TO BOOT. IT’S GOOD KARMA ALL THE WAY.

SB: Begin the begin.

HH: My name is Hannah Hoad, but I’ve been called Honey since birth, which stuck with me. I was raised in Bali and often Spain by an Australian mother and Spanish father, who both came from a posthippy era background, and were lucky enough to live the highlight times of the Spanish Costa del Sol and early Bali stages in the 70s & 80s. Schooled at Bali International School in Sanur, grew up as they ensured with an open-minded education, lots of freedom and a relaxed understanding of life with plenty of change. As one of the consequences I am a native speaker of English, Spanish, Indonesian and French, which I must say, has been unbelievably useful in the hospitality business. SB: Where did your hospitality influence come from?

HH: My care and concern for others’ wellbeing and comfort has always been a big part of my person and nature. This, plus my ease to adapt to any situation, took me off on a journey of its own. When in Spain, our residence was my grandfather’s holiday home and members club on the Costa del Sol, ‘Lew Hoad’s Campo de Tenis’, where Lew and wife Jenny spent over 30 years entertaining personal friends such as actors and singers. Every day was a summer Sunday atmosphere. I believe this was my biggest influence and the greatest hospitality school. The club was built on the image of Lew Hoad world tennis champ’s laid back and casual personality, where values were put before profits. It was an oasis of time gone by for

anyone who wanted to drop in, to drop out. From there on it was travel: Italy, Belgium, Barcelona, Ibiza, Portugal, Amsterdam to France, where I co-established ‘Le Bagus Bar’ in the south, conceptualized around the Bali lifestyle and still there today! After some years I decided it was time to return to the Island of the God’s, Bali and there I found Karma. S.B. When you say found Karma, what did Karma find in you?

HH: I think the correct way to put this is rather what we found in each other – Karma to me was it. The same atmosphere and values that I believe in and a love for, simply put, letting go. What Karma found in me was the person to ensure this. SB: Can you describe the Karma luxury lifestyle?

HH: A home away from home, a world away. A place you check in to check out, where everything is taken care of, pampering guests with a personalized ‘mine host’ approach for a personalized experience. Laid-back barefoot luxury, where surprises always await. Unobtrusive, unpretentious luxury experience all about choice and literally creating your own Karma. Once you arrive at Karma’s magical cliff top kingdom there is no longer a reason to step off it. This small village, rather than resort, has villas built in across the limestone at all different levels. Where stepping out of your villa, onto a cable car ride down 85m of limestone cliff though raw green jungle onto a white sandy beach surrounded by turquoise waters and a beautiful bamboo structure

Hannah ‘Honey’ Hoad Karma Group’s go-to beach club aficianado.

is just a regular day! The best tailored cocktails to fit your mood of the moment, freshly-caught seafood cooked right in front of your eyes, unique DJs with more to music than just beats and all done in nature at its rawest form. This is the life! If you’re looking to let your hair down a bit our bars and tables are strong enough for dancing, as has been proven in all of our resorts. SB: How long have you been with Karma?

SB: What is the latest on Karma Beach Clubs?

HH: I have now been with the Karma Royal Group for five years, and now oversee the beach clubs. From 2011 until 2013 I lived and breathed Karma Beach Bali, our group flagship and most prized possession. I then went on as part of the opening team for Karma Beach in Fiji and shortly after, opened Gili Meno, just off the coast of Lombok.

HH: Karma Beach will be bringing a taste of Karma to the world with its new offshore popup parties scheduled in London, Singapore, St. Tropez, Mykonos and Perth on a yacht! The first of several offshore parties will be scheduled in 2015 for our followers and newcomers to immerse themselves in true Karma style with a little help from the world’s best cocktail mixologists, chefs and DJs working together to bring good Karma to these destinations and beyond.

SB: Do you have any personal fantasies that you would like to do yourself?

HH: Yes, I have a great idea in mind. Some great things are being done on the island but there is still a lot more that can be offered for the ultimate experience.

SB: What’s your philosophy?

HH: Wake up with a smile, and without sounding cliché, do what makes you happy! FRV