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IDR 60.000 - SGD $10.50 - HKD $55.00 - MYR RM26.00 - AUD $10.00 - TWD $230 - THB 190
fine restaurants and villas | bali & southeast asian style
edition 9.2, august - september ‘12 Rp. 60.000
Macau Summer
Mauritius Indonesia
Lombok South Coast Mimpi Resort
Queensland Tenface Bangkok Angsana Maldives Travel
Desert Island
Fiji A Decent
Rp. 60.000
Singapore Dining
Proposal
Dolce Vita The Disgruntled Chef design
food
architecture
fashion
Mozaic Beach Club art
wine
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restaurants
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aston
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august - september 2012
CONTENTS FEATURES 42 Bali Fashion
Clio apartments in Bali’s Seminyak are a sophisticated partner in crime for Bali’s best designers.
60 Up And Over
Mimpi Resort and Spa in North Bali turns on the hot water and the charm.
72 A World Away
Thomas Jones travels to South Lombok looking for white sand beaches and peaceful tropicana.
98 The Sugar Isles
FRV Travel visits Mauritius off the coast of Africa, an untamed gem of tropical delight and a wondrous people.
112 Man vs Queensland
Ian Neubauer finds adventure across the wilds of Port Douglas and comes away with some sore muscles.
9.2
Cover FRV Travel: Mauritius Photo. Nick Walton
94 The Visionary Islands
Nick Walton experiences a game park in the UAE where the African savannah comes to life in the sands and sea.
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9.2
august - september 2012 CONTENTS Samadhana
028
A Decent Proposal
032
Have Chef, Will Travel
052
An inside look at one of Bali’s best villas.
66
Something new in the heart of Jakarta.
Six romantic venues sure to get a ‘yes’.
A quick chat with Bali chef, Will Meyrick.
86
Macau gets impressive by the numbers.
126
Rachel Love talks with Bali artist Cokorda Raka.
A Faultless Space A first time stay at Space Villa Bali.
Sweet Living
Great Italian food and opera in Singapore.
056
Melanie Lee lifts her spirits over lunch.
076
Big Shoes To Fill
084
Fiji Marsala
108
Tenface Hotel in Bangkok gets the FRV treatment.
Hardly Disgruntled
90
The Maldives simply can’t fail to shine.
Ian Neubauer gets a wedding invite.
14 Events - 16 Bits & Pieces - 40 Bali Legian - 70 Overnight 116 Wine - 119 Cheese - 120 Recipes - 132 Listings - 146 8 l FRV Travel
Singapore Last Word
078
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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Sya ffri Soe wa rd i (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Graphi cs Te guh Ana nta P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I c ul, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Gina (sales@frvtravel.com) A dmi ni strati o n Dya h, Poojie , Ta ri Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Ve Ha nd ojo, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Katie Truman, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Ian Lloyd Ne ub a ue r, Ke lvin Ha ye s. S ubscri pti o n Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 315,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details. Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) L eg al Asso ci ates Agus Sa mija ya & Pa rtne rs Gra ha Asa , Jl. Ka p te n Cok Agung Tre sna 49 Re non, De np a sa r. Te l: +62 361 242447, 247302, 08123924509. Fine Restaurants and Villas Travel magazine is an independent, b i -mo nthl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne September 15, 2012
FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y th ose of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Tr a ve l m a ga zin e is pr in te d by P T M e ga I n da h (T: 02161 9 0 5 2 9 ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s (In d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , F o re i g n P re s s ( H o n g K o n g ) , P a n s i n g D i s t r i b ut i o n (M a l a y s i a ) a n d N a t i o n B o o k s I n t e r n a t i o n a l ( T h a i l a n d ) . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .
F R V Trav el Mag az ine
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E dit io n 9 . 2
A ug ust - S ept ember ‘ 12
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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places The internet is really changing the way we interact with each other. Most of our time is now spent on the web finding and sharing bits of information with friends or the public at large. That could be a profile statement, an image or a video. It could be original or copied, who really cares. It all amounts to one thing in the end and that’s ‘reach’. For many people this reach is providing a lot of scope in self-promotion and there are unfathomable possibilities yet to be discovered. Now that everybody is online almost 24/7 and we can connect with thousands of people all around the world in one click of the curser, communication, information and the way we interact with each other has changed so dramatically, it’s mindboggling. While it may be easier, cheaper and more effective in reaching a greater public than ever, the question of who to actually listen to is still a concern.
Moving along as we do, FRV Travel has been working towards making a more interactive website where readers can read what we think of the restaurant, venue or destination first and then add their own review, insights and observations. We are very particular in choosing the venues we visit, most of which are of a very high caliber and presentation. However, we would be very interested in what you think of those same establishments and so would the other readers of this magazine. The written word from professional writers may be becoming a thing of the past as bloggers run amok, but we are embracing the future and that’s interaction. Log onto frvtravel.com today to make your voice heard. Meanwhile, we are facing the biggest and busiest high-season ever on Bali with the peak being Hari Merdeka and Idul Fitri arriving at about the same time. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy.
FRV CONTRIBUTORS
David Trauts Correspondent, English. With Ramadhan here it’s definitely time to relax. Cut back on the Jakarta trips, and rest and play on the island of the gods. It doesn’t get any better. It has been another hectic two months for the lad, though gallivanting around Indonesia and racking up so many frequent flier points along the way.
Erza S.T. This opera loving guy finally put his traveling stories into a book and launched it recently in what Jakarta’s recognized as the first winter party ever! Catch his journey stories during winter time in “The Winter Traveler and Other Stories”.
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Thomas Jones In between sleeping and dining his way around Bangkok and Singapore once again, Thomas travels outside of his comfortable Seminyak existence to Lombok and North Bali’s Menjangan for a change of pace and lifestyle, which seems to be having an effect and taking hold.
Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel is one of Bali’s most prolific authors, writing extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.
Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.
Ian Neubauer Ian is a Sydney-based freelance journalist specializing in adventure travel. He has reported extensively across East Asia and the South Pacific for many publications. He is also the author of two travel novels, Getafix (2004) and Maquis (2006), and an advocate for Topu Honis, an orphanage and women’s shelter in East Timor.
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regionalevents
AUGUST - SEPTEMBER
2
The Nadam Grassland Festival is a magnificent fair featuring
The Red Carpet Melbourne
traditional Mongolian recreational and sporting action, and held
The 61st Melbourne International
between summer and autumn from July to August when the
Film Festival (MIFF) will see
flowers are blooming, the grass is green, and the cattle and
Australia’s brightest stars and
sheep are well-fed - a sign of a good harvest. The activities
biggest names in film and
include song and dance performances, horse riding, archery
entertainment walking the
and wrestling all month long. Mid Aug - Mid Sept.
red carpet at one of the most
The Nadam Festival - Mongolia
anticipated events on the Australian film calendar, where the
Cup of Java – Bali
smash hit of the Cannes festival,
As Indonesia is one of the
The Sapphires, will be screened
most famous coffee growing
amid the pomp and ceremony it
nations in the world today. The
deserves. Aug 2-19.
Indonesian Coffee Festival will be held in Ubud this month to celebrate all that is good and great about the magic little bean to bring together producers and consumers to share and worship at the altar of caffeine. Aug 24 - 25.
24 Meeting of the Tribes - Indonesia
Farewell Possums – New Zealand That Australian icon of domestic cross-dressing goddessness, Dame Edna Everage, is taking her curtain call for the last time as she embarks on her very last tour of New Zealand in August after more than 50 years in the business. Don’t miss the all-singing, all-dancing extravaganza as she empowers audiences meditating on the big issues of gender, ethnicity and climate change. From Aug 11
Explore the last frontier of Indonesia’s remote wilderness and embark on a spectacular cultural journey at the Baliem Valley Festival in the centre of Papua. A time when the diverse tribes from the highlands congregate to celebrate their annual festivities, the highlight of the festival is the mock tribal
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warfare held to maintain the
Read All About It - Melbourne The countdown to Melbourne Writers Festival has started and this year it will explore the future of media in a digital world, celebrate the growing popularity of graphic novels, and focus on performance, from music to storytelling with some of the world’s finest writers of fiction, non-fiction and poetry. Aug 26 - Sept 4.
agility and preparedness of the tribes to defend their villages.
8
Aug 8 – 11.
22
Pole Position - Singapore Rev your engines ladies and gentleman and get into gear for the 5th annual Singapore Grand Prix, the only night race on the calendar, around the slick city streets of the Garden City. Be warped by the speed of these machines and dazzled by the glitz and glamour that goes along with it. Katy Perry and Noel Gallagher will be performing so get in quick. Sept 22-23.
Setting Sail Indonesia
On the Beach – Bali
This year’s Sail Indonesia regatta
fill this most famous stretch of
will reach its climax on
Bali sand with fun and frolics
September 14 on the island of
for three days this month with
Morotai in North Maluku and is
food stalls, exhibitions, cultural
expected to bring over 5,000
performances, bike and city
visitors to the island. More
tours, and performers from all
than 120 yachts are expected
over the archipelago as well
to participate from around the
as representatives of many of
region and Indonesian President
the tourist related businesses
SBY will also be in attendance to
across Bali. Sept 23 - 26.
The Legian Beach Festival will
celebrate the boats arriving and to promote the island itself to the world. Sept 14.
A Load of Bull - Vietnam The September Buffalo fights are taken very seriously in Haiphong. Well-fed and expertly trained bulls are elaborately decorated and paraded with much pomp and ceremony by their owners and followers into the ring, where they face each other down. At the signal they are released and charge head long into the fray. Much fun and merriment ensues with sore heads
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for all in the morning. All month.
Everyone Loves a Parade – Shanghai This year’s Shanghai Tourism Festival is working along the theme of ‘Entering the Happiness and Pleasure’ as it strives to bring people together with parades, pageantry and performers from around the world. At the grand opening ceremony the floats are shown off all over town with the public invited to vote on the best in show for the year. All thru Sept.
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BITS&PIECES
Villa Pangi Gita The finer points of Bali living. The enchanting Villa Pangi Gita gently flows down a terraced hillside to the tranquil, ‘singing’ Pangi River that meanders through the sleepy rural village of Pererenan. Designed for relaxation, peace and privacy, this three-bedroom luxury villa pays homage to its Balinese heritage with traditional-style living and sleeping pavilions adorned with Asian antiques, nestled amongst sublime tropical gardens and trickling fish ponds. To complement this oasis, a team of warm and friendly staff are on hand to spoil guests with their exceptional service. Villa Pangi Gita is bound to delight families, attract couples and seduce even the most hardened workaholic into restful submission. www.marketingvillas.com
bits&PIECES Author, Author Stories to bring light to a cold winter’s night. FRV Travel’s own travelling writer and raconteur, Erza S.T, recently launched his new book to wide acclaim in Jakarta in July at a ‘cool’ event themed to match the book’s title. A Winter’s Tale and Other Stories, highlights Erza’s love of the colder months to travel the world, when the streets are empty of tourists and filled with locals going about their daily lives: the true essence of travel. Expect the unexpected wandering the snowy streets of Vienna, being lost in translation in Geneva, gourmet restaurants in Oslo and dining on one of the world’s highest peaks, all in the dead of winter. Look for it in all good bookstores.
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BITS&PIECES “I smiled when I saw he’d left the lights on. It was a sign. He wanted me to wait for him. I could see him through the window, hurriedly slurping the rest of his soup down. He didn’t need to rush. Of course I would stay. These moments are what I waited all day for.”
Mama sees it all. And it is beautiful.
The dish: Roasted duck
with Shanghai noodles,
duck wontons and bok choy. Meltingly tender roast duck pieces swimming in a clear, golden-hued,
aromatic broth with hints of ginger, cinnamon and Sichuan pepper.
Escape the heat and head to Mama San for lunch. Open from 12 noon.
jl. raya kerobokan no.135 br taman, bali +62 361 730 436 info@mamasanbali.com www.mamasanbali.com www.facebook.com/MamaSanBali www.twitter/mamasanbali
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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES
A Sea-Change for the Tourist Boats on Halong Bay Authorities decree fresh paint for boats in the bay.
As Vietnam makes good on its selection as one of the world’s ‘New 7 Wonders of Nature,’ the authorities in the country’s premier tourist destination issued a whitewash decree in preparation for the summer cruising season: all tourist boats
in the bay must be painted white. And all of those boats have complied, at least those now ferrying tourists among the limestone karsts-studded bay. To wit, the Life Resorts: The resort management group launched a fleet of 22 traditional junks in 2011, which debuted in traditional colours, with brown wooden hulls and red-ribbed sails. In anticipation of the decree, the boats were hauled out of the water and painted white. Nearly all of the bay’s junks found themselves in similar straits, swapping traditional wooden facades for the ordained colour. While most boat owners might find cause for grumbling, one company had less cause for complaint, at least from a cost standpoint. Since 2003, Emeraude Classic Cruises has plied the jade-green waters in white, except for its hull, which is now white, and they must be laughing all the way to the bank.
Bangkok is Bang On Best city for the third year in a row. granted the World’s Best Award 2012. The Governor travelled to New York to receive the award on behalf of Bangkok on July 19th. According to him, the award is the pride of Bangkokians. He added that, besides beautiful scenery, the capital has its unique features such as lifestyle, culture, tradition and various choices of food. Mr Sukhumbhand further elaborated that the award shows that Thais have been good hosts for foreigners, adding that Thai hospitality, honesty, and friendly gestures with the tourists also help claim the award for the third consecutive year. He asked all Thais to help preserve the city as a lively place and extend a warm welcome to tourists so that Bangkok will continue to receive the World’s Best City award for years to come. Bangkok has for the third time in as many years been named the World’s Best City 2012 by a globally renowned travel magazine. Based on an annual survey conducted on readers’ opinions regarding the best travel destinations in the world, Bangkok Governor MR Sukhumbhand Paribatra announced that the Thai capital of Bangkok was ranked first on the list and was
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For other awards, New York City holds on to its title for the 12th year in a row as the Best City in the U.S. and Canada, and ranks No. 7 among top cities overall. Boracay in the Philippines is voted World’s Best Island. Singapore Airlines is the World’s best international airlines.
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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES
Haute Cuisine at 36,000 feet Bangkok Airways introduces special menus for 2011. After the success of Bangkok Airways ‘Exclusive Chef in the Sky’ program last year, the world-class chefs from the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui and The Chedi, Chiang Mai, in association with Bangkok Air Catering, have created 12 special menus to be served on our Blue Ribbon Class for the six months from July to December 2012 on selected routes in Asia. Designed to emphasize their positioning as a full service airline with boutique offerings that set it apart from the completion, the innovative cuisine on Bangkok Airways are all part of their special all points service that from reservation to check-in, as well as departure lounge for all its passengers. The menu from Four Seasons Samui will be served from July to September while the menu from The Chedi will be served from October to December. Christopher Patzold, Exclusive Chef at The Chedi, and Executive Chef Alex Gares of the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui are pictured above.
The Moveable Feast Inspiration for aspirational foodies to go beyond the dining room. wine, excellent food, and conversation. Unaware of whom the other guests will be dining with until everyone has arrived for cocktails, there is a sense of Bali meets Hollywood in an evening that is staged to perfection.
Bali’s Best Chefs is a new dining room concept that held its inaugural dinner recently to wide acclaim with the help of 12 esteemed guests, one of the island’s most skillful chefs, a sommelier and five-star wait staff - all wrapped up in one of the island’s most dramatic locations, The Longhouse villa, a very sophisticated tone indeed. As a professional photographer, company owner Deborah Cayetano, puts her taste for dramatic landscapes and good taste to fine use to bring together likeminded travellers and Bali residents for an evening of fine 20 l FRV Travel
Chef Vincent of Warisan restaurant created a wonderfully luxurious menu with gratin scallops with leek and fennel, Wagyu rolls stuffed with foie gras in black truffle oil, prawn sate with ginger caramel sauce and crispy gyoza stuffed with snail and shitake. All accompanied by a selection of great wines that flowed through the evening with each course. As time passes Bali’s Best Chefs will expand to include garden parties and private beach soirees, all hosted by the best chefs on the island and washed down with some of the finest wines in this hemisphere. Following the success of The Longhouse event, interest in the next dinner is high so interested parties should get in quick as numbers are limited. Bali’s Best Chef’s balibestchefs@gmail.com +62 8786 204 1774
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BITS&PIECES
Family and Friends A special day in Puri Nirwana villa. rural hinterland. Kids were entertained by a magical clown, a bouncy castle, a face painting studio and there were even some animal encounters to be had, while the adults were led through the lush gardens of the magnificent six-bedroom colonial-style villa to the impressive beachfront lawn for freeflow sangria and an impressive BBQ prepared by the estate’s private chef. “We wanted to present the unique features of villa Puri Nirwana and show how beautiful this place is when enjoyed with the whole family and friends. We will be happy to arrange such a celebration for our future guests so they can feel the beauty of life, and enjoy every moment,” said Mrs. Raty Hamarto, the villa’s general manager. One of Bali’s leading villa rental specialists, Villa Na Bali Management, held a fun-filled day at Puri Nirwana recently with lots of good food, wine and loads of activities for kids and adults alike. Choosing a unique approach to the ‘open home’, many of the owner’s friends and colleagues, media representatives and business partners were invited to experience first hand the beauty of the location and the villa itself, located right on the beach in the east of Bali within easy reach of Bali’s magnificent
Puri Nirwana was created with careful attention to those with special needs, be it families with kids, those with disabilities, or the elderly. It is one of the only villas on the island that caters to those in wheelchairs, with massive bathrooms, wide open doorways and an elevator between the ground and first floors. www.villanabali.com
Climbing Up The Ladder Legian Bali puts rising Swiss star at helm. Two years after being promoted to Executive Assistant Manager of The Setai South Beach Miami, Kevin J. Abramowicz has been appointed General Manager of The Legian Bali, the sophisticated boutique resort on stylish Seminyak Beach. Abramowicz takes the reins at a time when The Legian has had its iconic, three-bedroom Beach House and nearly half its 68 suites renovated and a new lap pool installed with all work scheduled to be completed in time for the summer high season.
A New Look Lunch Metis weekly lunch special. Metis restaurant in Petitenget has announced they will be serving a special lunch menu over the high season, so if you are planning a business lunch or just a get together with the girls or boys for a weekly gossip, maybe it’s time to give Metis a go. With their stunning rice paddy setting lunch is served from 11am to 3pm daily. And don’t forget there’s plenty of spacious private parking for the charger. Amongst all the lunch time goodness make sure you make the Wednesday lunch in particular at least once, when they serve their famous couscous special, a favorite at the restaurant since right from the beginning. Metis: Jl. Petitenget No.6 Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia. Tel: +62 361 4737 888
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bcco
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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES
Music And Madness All Summer Long Ku De Ta has the good times pumping again this high season.
This year, ignite the romance and dive into a neverending summer at one of the world’s most iconic beach clubs. KU DE TA Bali brings you ‘Summer of Love’ with an international DJ line-up that will have you coming back for more. The annual ‘Bikini Day Party’ returns on the 12th of August for a summer showdown. Savour a bronzed, beautiful crowd draped in their best renditions of a less is more dress code and a flamboyant Rio Carnival theme. After the bright colours of Carnival, return to the pure snowy tones of KU DE TA Bali’s world famous ‘White Party’. Say ‘I do’ to the most awaited event of the year and mark your calendars
for the 18th of August for an unforgettable night in paradise. Celebrate the legendary soiree of the season with Grammy Award winning hit-maker Sharam; one part of DJ duo Deep Dish who changed the face of electronic music with their seminal remix of De’Lacy’s “Hideaway” and club banger “Flashdance.” For the rest of the steamy season, rock on with KU DE TA’s Summer of Love, featuring a line-up of nine other internationally renowned guest DJs and 14 beloved resident DJs. Bask in a never-ending summer dream at KU DE TA Bali, the undisputed high season party destination.
Ku De Ta Music To Live By Grand Theft Audio, Volume 2 out now. Filled with the breathtaking beats of Jim Breese and BtK, Grand Theft Audio, Volume 2 in the bi-annual KU DE TA album series, has been lovingly constructed for their endless high season in 2012. Reflecting the effortlessly elegant, forwardthinking demeanour of Asia’s leading lifestyle venue, the album offers fresh, cuttingedge tracks, which artfully recreate a typical day at the iconic KU DE TA Bali. Contemporary yet timeless productions make this instalment an instant classic. From chill to melancholy, soul to funk, or even delightful disco, the collection pulses away with a subtle hand, blending the mix without distracting from the individual tracks, guiding you on your sundrenched musical journey. Available exclusively at the KU DE TA boutique.
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BALI’S DEFINITIVE DINING DESTINATION FOR THE DISCERNING GLOBAL FOODIE
J OIN
THE
CHEFS
AS
THEY
“GO
NAKED”
OR
“NOT
SO
NAKED”
IN
THE
KITCHEN
WHERE
THE
BEST
LOCAL SEAFOODS AND IMPORTED MEATS ARE EITHER GRILLED “NAKED” OR GLAZED WITH KECAP MANIS AND SAMBAL. COME
INDULGE
ON THE
hu’u bar in bali
OVERSIZED
PILLOWS
IN
OUR
GARDEN WITH
OUR
LEGENDARY
LYCHEE
MARTINIS.
@huubali
ce l ebrating our 11th anniversar y in 2012 re s er vations +62 361 473 6576, huubali.com j a l an petitenget, seminyak , bali 80361
FRV Travel l 25
CHEFINsights BITS&PIECES
Moving with Chef PM Interview by David Trauts
Phil Mimbimi as the general manager
has been in Bali working
and head chef of Hu’u Bar and restaurant in Petitenget for the past four years. In that time he has seen many changes at that end of town, as Bali’s burgeoning fine food and beverage industry has been encroaching ever-north into Petitenget and beyond. Mimbimi, affectionately known as Chef PM, has decided to move on after getting married and having a child earlier this year, but before he leaves we thought he may like to pass on some pearls of wisdom from his time and experience in Bali.
How do you think you would feel if you were arriving to Bali for the first time as a tourist right now? It’s still an amazingly mystical island that has something for everybody. Sure the development and traffic seems to increase day by day, but there are so many escapes in great locations simply at your doorstep. Would it be an enlightening experience and any different to what you felt four years ago when you first arrived for those lovely visitors? Definitely, I think and believe one of the most amazing parts of living and working in Bali is how positive the vibes are. If you tend to focus on things within your control and keep an optimistic outlook at all times things always tend to go that way here. People who struggle with that seem to burn out or not encounter good experiences. Bali is one of the most happening places around the region in food and beverage, do you think there’s any particular reason that came about? The diversity and the amount of people who share and express their passion by putting their names, reputation, and money on the line each and every day. Also the quality of 26 l FRV Travel
ingredients when it comes to herbs, vegetables, spices, and seafood are really in abundance now in Bali. Most of my fellow chefs, F&B people and restaurateurs are very open minded and we don’t classify our colleagues as competitors first and foremost but as friends. The neighborhood is quite amicable, friendly, and respectful of each other’s individual skills, talents, concepts, and abilities. When you first arrived at hu’u, the club had been rather quiet for a few years. How did you go about turning that around? Working with the right people, teamwork, recognizing the repeat guests and regulars. Adding the personal touch to everything we do. It helps when you have the reigning back to back award winning Beat Dude (Dimas) and Superstar Chef of the year on the crew! Petitenget is fast becoming the place for dining and partying on the island. From the island’s finest establishments to the more eclectic eateries and bars it all seems to be moving at a breakneck speed up that way. What’s the pick of the bunch for you right now? Most of the neighborhood offers a bit of something for everybody. And the venues are mostly easy going where people tend to
come in and make themselves feel at home. Proprietors, the successful ones, just do what they do best, which is for the most part just being themselves; down to earth, open minded, friendly, welcoming and easy going. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Which restaurant would you be likely to eat in at those times of day and why? Breakfast – La Lucciola or Oberoi; serenity by the beach and ocean. Lunch – Sardine in the garden setting is nice to chill out, or Mama San for some noodles since the portions are big. For dinner Chandi always has something new and a good use of local ingredients. Great people running the place and cozy. Special note to St Regis for Sunday brunch @ KayuPuti one word - Decadence So after four years on the island, many years around Southeast Asia and cooking in some of the finest restaurants, what’s next for you? Next is a couple of exciting projects that I will be working on, both personal and career wise, so it’s a great time to take advantage of the opportunities. As I have roots in this part of the world, don’t be surprised if you see me back around the neighbourhood again sometime soon. FRV
RAW. RARE. NAKED. TAKE A DIFFERENT APPROACH PAN ASIAN CUISINE INFUSED WITH WESTERN TECHNIQUES THAT BRING TOGETHER UNEXPECTED TASTE SENSATIONS. SETTLE IN AND ENJOY EXOTIC CULINARY CREATIONS BY CHEF KEVIN CHUNG. SUNSETS ARE FREE. OPEN FOR LUNCH, DINNER AND SUNDAY BRUNCH. ASK ABOUT OUR CRAZY CRABS!
STARFISH BLOO WAS NOMINATED FOR
STARFISH BLOO JL. PETITENGET, SEMINYAK, KEROBOKAN, DENPASAR, BALI, INDONESIA T: +62 361 4738 106 E: b&f.wbali@whotels.com EXPLORE WHOTELS.COM/BALISEMINYAK FACEBOOK.COM/WRETREATBALI TWITTER @WBALI
FRV Travel l 27
BALIVILLA
Soothe your Soul Text: Jo Hocking Photos by Christopher Leggett
With stunning ocean views across neighbouring rice fields, tantalising glimpses of sacred Mount Agung in the distance and the sound of rolling waves, calming water features and twittering birds to lull you to sleep at night, Villa Samadhana is the ideal place to find your inner peace.
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or many, the seaside village of Ketewel is relatively unknown. Characterised by rice fields, tobacco plantations, and papaya, banana and coconut groves that hug the glistening black volcanic sands of Pabean Beach, Ketewel is a pocket of paradise that remains relatively untouched by Bali’s burgeoning tourism industry. Searching for a bit of peace and quiet myself, I headed to Villa Samadhana in this seemingly remote location. Just thirteen kilometres north of Sanur, directly off the busy bypass that runs along Bali’s southeast coast, my destination was surprisingly accessible. As soon as I turned off the main highway onto the narrow street leading to the water’s edge I was captivated by
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Lavish gardens and facilities perfect for entertaining. FRV Travel l 29
the overhanging frangipani trees and traditional way of life that presented itself. However, nothing really could prepare me for the real treat that lay ahead – the magical Villa Samadhana itself. Hidden behind coral-limestone walls and tall trees I was brought to the main entrance where a large seated Buddha garlanded with flowers welcomed me to negotiate the wooden bridge traversing a lotus pond and I was awestruck at the size and space of the property that sprawled out before me. ‘Was this really all for me?’ Crossing the expansive lawns, which were big enough for a football match or a wedding party I headed for the main house that beckoned me with its large opensided living and dining pavilion that oozed style and sophistication. Created by renowned Malaysian architect, Cheong Yew Kuan (Aman Resorts, Como Shambala) and professional landscaper Trevor Hilliar, this fivebedroom property has combined contemporary and traditional influences to deliver a chic and comfortable home respectful of its natural and cultural surrounds. It is accompanied by Thai silk furnishings and a collection of Asian antiques that reflect the owner’s taste and style. Resting on an impressive 7,400 square metres, there is oodles of space to hangout, including a stunning 25-metre infinity pool with adjoining entertainment pavilion offering ocean views. I found it hard to prise myself out of the swimming pool that was deliciously warm as the cool sea-breeze swirled around me. Dinner was prepared by the villa’s very own private chef in the restaurant-grade kitchen that stands as a feature of the house. With its gleaming black granite worktops and modern appliances, is in itself a work of art. Smiling from ear-to-ear the chef told me it was 30 l FRV Travel
Above left and right: Large opensided living and dining pavilion and master bedroom with ocean views.
Above: Exotic daybed overlooking an incredible 25-metre infinity pool.
probably the best villa kitchen in Bali and he was very happy with his workplace. His enthusiasm flowed through in his cooking where I was served a succulent feast including barbecue chicken with Balinese spices. After my day of indulgence I decided to retire to my ever-so-comfortable king-size bed and drifted off to sleep to the sound of crashing waves. When I woke in the morning and it was time to leave, ‘absolute bliss” were the only words I could find to describe my stay, and I was just sorry I had not brought friends along for the experience. Named after the ancient Sanskrit word for ‘inner peace’, Villa Samadhana had allowed me to obtain just that and I was extremely grateful to the villa and the staff for lulling me into restful submission. As fate would have it, a Balinese Hindu purification ceremony was taking place by the beach as I drove off, leaving me content and happy knowing my stay was round and complete. FRV Villa Samadhana is the idyllic setting for a wedding, party or special celebration, or simply a relaxing retreat for families, couples and groups seeking to spoil their senses. www.villasamadhana.com
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Proposal a decent
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Text: Katie Truman since you can’t exactly go wrong popping the question assisted by sunset, beach and sublime cuisine Bali provides the perfect romantic playground for a marriage proposal. However, if you want to really impress, these six unique and fabulous venues will help conjure up the ultimate positive outcome. And conveniently enough, they all double up as wedding venues!
Ma Joly At The Sandi Phala A Bedouin-style tent and the serenity of Tuban Beach is your toes-in-the-sand option for pretentionfree romance. Spaced well apart from beachfront Ma Joly Restaurant, this dining spot pretty much gives you and your intended beach exclusivity. Be seated for sunset, after which the intimate beach tent is beautifully illuminated with flickering torch lights and candles. Billowing white cotton canopy it may look, but refinement still abounds with a starched white tablecloth, golden plates and a white rose centrepiece, plus Ma Joly’s candle-lit dinner menu – seven courses of exceptional French cuisine allowing enough time to steady the nerves. There is a personal bell to summon your waiter, plus a hidden video camera, allowing momentous moments to be recorded for posterity. It’s hardly rocket science that this is a well-oiled proposal launch-pad. Jalan Wana Segara, Tuban, www.ma-joly.com. Tel: +62 361 753 780
Four Seasons Resort Bali At Sayan An elegantly decorated table a deux, surrounded by lotus ponds, seemingly suspended mid-air high amongst the treetops with the sacred Ayung River coursing through Ubud’s rain-forested gorge below. What could be more quintessentially Balinese? Post 5.30pm, this idyllic stage, aptly named the ‘Lily Pond,’ on the uppermost floor of the prestigious resort is all set for romance. Totally open to the elements (no good daytime, unless you both want to end-up a sticky heap), Four Season’s provide serene open-air dining under starry skies aglow with floor candles, cooled by riverside breezes and accompanied by a natural sound system of rainforest frogs, geckos, cicadas and cascading water. Naturally, you‘ll wish to be all alone at Lily Pond – there’s space for five other dining tables – so a small extra fee can guarantee exclusivity and privacy. Sayan, Ubud, Gianyar, www.fourseasons.com/sayan: Tel: +62 361 977 577 FRV Travel l 33
hu’u bar & grill Among hu’u’s huge garden, you’ll find a solitary cushioned pod for two known as ‘Lurve Cocoon’ – quite apt for elegantly savvy yet playfully fun hu’u. Decadently peppered with plump silk cushions and semi-open with organza silk walls, ‘Lurve Cocoon’ is edged by manicured lawns and allows plenty of space for private moments. In this romantic setting lit-up like a fairy grotto, kick start the proceedings with a signature Lychee Martini. One of greater Seminyak’s finest restaurant-bar experiences (celebrating their ten-year anniversary this year), you’re in good hands with Executive Chef Philip Mimbimi’s innovative, yet simplistically fresh, global dishes. Note, as you’ll be feasting while reclining back on cushions, prearrange a customized menu or opt for naughty nibbles from the Small Bites Menu, served by seriously slick waiting staff. Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak, www.huubali.com. Tel: +62 361 4736 573
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The Chedi Club Set just outside the village of Ubud, up on the refreshing slopes far away from the popular Kuta/Seminyak party zone guests can relax and feel the love for the big occasion. Looking out over the rice fields of The Chedi Club, a super romantic pavilion accommodates one couple in complete solitude with elegant and refined service and divine dining pleasure. No desire or opulence is spared to create the greatest platform over the rice paddies for romance on the island of love. Executive Chef Dean Nor and staff are there to serve your every wish. Choose from four menus or tell the chef what to prepare just to make your evening even more special. Pop the question before dessert, after entrÊe or while enjoying a glass of champagne; it’s totally up to you. Jalan Raya Goa Gajah Goa Gajah. www.ghmhotels.com. Tel: +62 361 975685 /
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Metis Bali Glitzy ambience, expansive open-air formal dining and magnifique French Mediterranean haute cuisine in Petitenget has made Métis one of Bali’s hottest dining spots for celebs, gastronomes and hopeless romantics. A recent addition is The Bale, a traditional Balinese gazebo linked to the main restaurant-lounge by a pathway surrounded by lily and lotus ponds and rice fields, that is magically aglow come night time. The Bale has a ‘Romantic Dinner Package’ including a four-course dinner exclusively created by the Executive Chef, a bottle of champagne, private butler service and a suitably ornate table setting, and their service is both impeccable yet flexible, thoughtfully accommodating high-end private events down to the minutest detail: “We always try to keep the glass full for the future groom, making sure however he doesn’t get too drunk.” Quite! Jalan Petitenget #6, Petitenget, Kerobokan. www.metisbali. com. Tel: +62 361 4737 888 36 l FRV Travel
Alila Villas Uluwatu You may be giddy from nerves or nervous with romance, but at Alila Villas Uluwatu resort on the Bukit’s southern most cliffs, you may endup feeling a bit strange from vertigo. Alila’s cliff-edge Sunset Cabana, hangs 85m up over Uluwatu’s crashing surf breaks, providing one of Bali’s most staggering vistas. The open-air venue is strikingly designed with timbered floors, wooden latticework walls and understated plush cream sofas, which balances the rugged savannah landscape. Located in the main resort area, it’s justifiably popular as a wedding venue, but the nine smaller cabanas along Alila’s cliff-hanging grounds offer more intimacy. These are all complimentary for resident guests but outside guests can enjoy the same privileges, providing they order F+B options; hardly a hardship as culinary treats include contemporary Western warung-style archipelago fare or the chef ’s signature menu. Jalan Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Pecatu. www.alilahotels.com. Tel: +62 361 848 2166
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BALIdining
Warisan’s New Heritage Menu
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arisan restaurant in Kerobokan have made a shift recently, embracing local flavours in their menu and bringing Indonesian cuisine to where it belongs in its own country – to the top of the list. After all, “Warisan” means “heritage” in English. The founders of Warisan wanted to build a restaurant which would be there for future generations and after 21 years of serving western dishes to their guests they have decided to honour their ancestral roots by also serving Indonesian dishes crafted by their Executive Chef Vincent Denayer and his team. Western Mediterranean dining is also still available on the delicious and creative menu but now in one of the few highend restaurants in the Seminyak area of Bali to have it, excellent Indonesian is available for both lunch and dinner
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accompanied by top service and comfortable surroundings. Diners can enjoy the choice of Western and Indonesian cuisine at the same table, perfect for visitors and locals alike. As Cetin, manager of Warisan told FRV Travel recently while this scribe was enjoying a wonderfully presented and tasting Warisan nasi campur, “We find having these delightful Indonesian dishes on the menu is perfect for just about all guests as some can order exquisite Western cuisine and others the Indonesian dishes. And all at very reasonable prices,” adds Cetin. It’s the perfect time to wish everyone “Salamat Makan” and “Menikmati Menu ini” at Warisan restaurant. FRV
Warisan Restaurant Bali: Jalan Raya Kerobokan, Seminyak, Bali Tel: +62 361 731 175
Text: David Trauts The classy Seminyak restaurant embraces its heritage.
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BALIaccommodation
The Legian offers guests what they want The seminyak hotel Reopens with new decks, gardens and a 30-metre pool
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ust in time for the summer high season, The Legian has reopened after four months of sprucing and enhancing the finer points of the high-end Seminyak hotel. Most ideas for the make-over came directly from the guest feedback book, and the first guests to arrive after the 68-room property reopened on June 25 had the chance to enjoy the new 30-metre infinity lap pool and beachfront sun deck, freshly landscaped gardens, improved lighting in half of the guest rooms and upgraded views of the spectacular Indian Ocean from its three-bedroom private Beach House. Essential elements of the resort experience— natural light, easy airflow, prime ocean views and inviting green spaces—were all refreshed in The Legian’s most extensive facelift since its opening in 1996.
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“In the past half-year we have taken a nearperfect property and, with layers of subtleties (and one grand swimming pool), made it that much better,” said Kevin J. Abramowicz, the resort’s new general manager. “Our guests love The Legian’s design, but they wanted more light, so we gave it to them.” Guests also wanted a space to enjoy sundowners, so the resort laid down a deck; they wanted to do laps, so the resort built a gorgeous infinity pool right above the sands. “We listened to guest comments when planning the improvements,” said Kevin. In the first of two stages of renovations, workers took tools to half of The Legian’s guest rooms. They fixed the plumbing for better temperature control, they recalibrated the air circulation system in the bedroom, and they installed new lighting on the terrace.
The resort’s exclusive Beach House was the recipient of a new 20-square metre terrace with sunbeds accessible from the master bedroom, which was rearranged for better ocean views. More windows were created to allow Bali’s tropical rays into the guest rooms and bathrooms, while the living room was opened up with two walls of transparent folding doors giving guests the option to enjoy 180-degree panoramic views whether relaxing in the sea breeze or air-conditioned comfort. The Legian Bali right on Seminyak beach just became that much better. FRV
The Legian Bali Seminyak Beach Bali Indonesia Tel: +62 361 730 622 www.gmhotels.com
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CLIO STYLE
A collection of stylish downtown dwellings in central Seminyak CLIO APARTMENTS Photos by skas
Garments White spikey shoulder dress by StyleStalker from This Is A Love Song. Dewi 138 peeptoe in camel by Niluh Djelantik. 42 l FRV Travel
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Apparel Red dress by Miss Milne. Dulup 90 wedges in silver by Niluh Djelantik.
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Apparel Encore dress by HORN by EGR from Horn Emporium. Christian Graciel teak clutch from Namu. Dewi 138 peeptoe in camel.
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Apparel Blue pemplum dress by Miss Milne, Christian Graciel silver and teak bangles. Anastasia 138 in black vintage by Niluh Djelantik. 46 l FRV Travel
function meets design at clio
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Apparel Bow blouse and brocade cullotes by Miss Milne. Anastasia 138 in black vintage by Niluh Djelantik. 48 l FRV Travel
Clio is a small boutique enclave of 13 designer apartments FRV Travel l 49
Apparel Bi-colour dress by Namu. Orchid pendant by Namu, Dulup 90 wedges in silver by Niluh Djelantik.
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stylish outdoor and indoor
FASHION
CLIO APARTMENTS
Model: Melrose - Balistarz Photographer: Skas/Balistarz Wardrobe: Mixed Hair and make up: Anja Braendli/ Balistarz Production: Balistarz Stylist: Angie Anggoro
Jalan Raya Seminyak Gang Mangga No.7, Seminyak, Bali. T. +62 361 747 8851 www.cliobali.com
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KITCHENCONFIDENTIAL
HAVE CHEF, WILL TRAVEL Text: Katie Truman If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen. British Chef and Bali resident, Will Meyrick frequently does, with mouth-watering results.
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lthough British chef Will Meyrick enjoyed success at two of Sydney’s premier restaurants – Jimmy Licks and Long Grain – it’s a long-running fascination with Asia’s vibrant street food culture that’s been this intrepid chef ’s culinary inspiration and making. Whippingup dishes in the kitchens of upscale hotels in Bali, Koh Samui and Hong Kong, Meyrick fell spellbound with the region’s exotic spices, flavours, aromas and textures, and in a recurrent theme evident over the years, ever-hungry Meyrick is invariably found roaming wide across Asia, personally sourcing authentic recipes and traditional cooking methods passed down the generations - from sage old ladies to street market hawkers, and from remote mountain villages to seething cities. “I have a library of chefs, not cookbooks,” quips Meyrick. Experimenting and adapting Asian streetfood recipes led to the idea behind Meyrick’s signature restaurant Sarong, launched in 2008, an early leader in Bali’s gastronomic enclave of Petitenget, and still one of the island’s classiest acts.Within Sarong’s refined Euro-Asian elegance, Meyrick masterfully balances modern Asian dishes inspired by carefully researched traditional home-style recipes; an innovative concept of sublime street food – without the ‘street.’
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From top left: Mama San’s interior; Rangoon beef curry with potato; chicken wing & tea leaf salad; the man himself eating on the street.
Following on from Sarong’s success, Will and long-term kitchen side-kick, chef Palm Amatawet from Koh Samui, opened the similarly styled, ‘Asian culinary odyssey gone posh,’ Mama San last year - a wildly popular ‘kitchen-bar-lounge’ housed in a converted double-storey warehouse in Seminyak and dripping retro-vintage ambience that again focuses on authentic Asian street food. Recent culinary forays across Asia, unearthing sensational new recipes and traditional techniques acquired from ibu ibu (Indonesian for mothers) and other culinary wizards has resulted in Will’s definitive “Kitchen Sessions” menu; an on-going, regular series of additions in Sarong and Mama San, concentrating on local cuisine of one particular region, such as Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Sulawesi, Padang, Aceh and so on. “It’s all about expressing the
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culture and regional Asian food. Sampling it, experiencing it, understanding it and learning from the ibu ibu, then adapting it for patrons to sample authentic cuisine from focused regions,” explains Will. Extensive research in regions across the Indonesian archipelago has also inspired Will to put together an in-depth authoritative cook book on Indonesian street food featuring around 150 traditional recipes and related colour photos which will be launched next year. Meanwhile this year, look out for the launch of ‘Inspirations of Sarong,’ a more personalized culinary tome recounting Will’s experiences across Southeast Asia and of living in Bali over the past decade, plus his classic and favourite Sarong-inspired recipes. There are also plans afoot for an ‘Asian concept restaurant’ opening in Jakarta. FRV
Will’s top five kitchen essentials When this nomadic chef is not on the road, and instead holed up at home in Bali with his family, what essential must-have products does he stock in his cupboards? Below: Bustling downtown Rangoon; Rangoon market women.
Eggs We always have at least half a dozen free-range eggs in the fridge. Clearly tropical living calls for refrigeration, although we’re lucky to always get small quantities of super fresh, delicious eggs from family friends living nearby. Instant Noodles The Indomie brand is as synonymous with instant noodles in Indonesia as Cadbury’s is with chocolate in the West. In fact, the Indomie name has become so main stream that it’s now used for any brand of instant noodles. There’s something about Indomie that stirs up a cult-like passion, even for those with some of the most refined foodie palates. Locals reared on this Indonesian staple wax lyrical years later about their love of Indomie and their favourite version of it. Sambal Pedas I always stock an assortment of sambal (chillibased condiments) depending on how hot I want to go! Some are homemade from wonderful traditional recipes handed down from locals, but there are also some decent ready-made store versions available. Soy Sauce The ABC brand of this essential Asian condiment is the one I use regularly, easily obtainable from any local supermarket. Choy Sum When creating something simple but tasty, it’s all about adding in something fresh, clean and green. Leafy choy sum does the job, bought fresh daily in small quantities from the local market. There’s a method to this list: throw these five ingredients together and you have Indomie Mi Goreng - the perfect fast food. Lightly stir-fry or steam the choy sum, add soy sauce and hot-asa-rocket sambal to taste. Top it off with a soft, velvety, poached egg. “That’s one of my all-time favourite simple pleasures and comfort meals,” says Will. “A quick, easy lunch, late night snack or hangover cure breakfast. Sometimes it’s not always necessary to complicate dishes or dress them up, especially after a huge week focusing on the nuances of aromatic broth bases or slowbraised signature curries.”
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BALIVILLA
A Faultless For Sydney-sider ian neubauer on holiday at Space in Seminyak, design and service came together to create a faultless villa experience
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was only a six-hour flight from Sydney to Bali, but it really took it out of us. But when I saw our guy pushing his way through the airport crowds and holding a placard with my name on it, everything changed for the better. His name was Gede, and for the next four days he would earn his stripes as our trusty driver, even when he was commandeered by my girlfriend for yet another Seminyak shopping trip. “Welcome to Bali, Mr Ian,” he said. “I am so happy for you to be here.” An hour later Gede pulled into a narrow driveway leading to Space Villas at Jalan Drupadi, a quiet backstreet in Seminyak. As a seasoned travel writer I’ve been fortunate enough to stay at some of the most opulent, over-the-top and ridiculous properties on earth, and while our two-bedroom villa at Space with private pool, cabana, monsoon shower, traditional Balinese furnishings and every modern convenience under the sun held its ground among them, it was the service, and the way our stay was packaged, that left a lasting impression. Gede led us straight into our villa to wind down and seconds later two female staff materialized with tropical cocktails and canapés, followed by Mudana, our butler, a wide-eyed 20something, father of three from Ubud.
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Space
The two-bedroom villa at Space with its private pool. FRV Travel l 57
One of the two bedrooms, looking out to the pool.
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Right: The combined living and dining room fitted with hand-carved Balinese furniture.
“The villa business is extremely popular in Bali and there are now hundreds of them on the island,” says Space Villas manager, Stephen Michie from New Zealand. “But they tend to be a bit hit and miss. You may find a stunning villa in the middle of a rice field but they may not have backup generator in case the power goes out, or the internet’s no good, or the staff don’t speak English, all things that can put a dampener on your stay. Here we match the hardware – design and construction – with great software – the staff. Our staff members are highly trained, well motivated, good English speakers and know exactly what the guest wants,” he remarks. The next day we awoke to the sound of Mudana and his staff preparing breakfast in our kitchen: scrambled eggs, bacon, croissants, fresh fruits, percolated coffee, and juice. We watched in fascination over the course of the meal as a conga line of staff made there way through our villa. There was a gardener who clipped the lawn even though it was immaculate; a pool cleaner, even though there wasn’t as much as a stray leaf on the water; and more cleaners than we could count. And when I mentioned to Mudana that we may want some privacy, he clapped his hands and the staff were gone as quickly as they appeared. After a lazy mid-morning swim we were whisked away by Gede to Canggu to visit a friend from home who was now living in Bali. Our friend’s directions, however, were less than foolproof, and Gede had to stop and ask five or six times until he got us there.
Dinner that night was at Metis and at La Lucciola the night after. Both came on Mudana’s recommendation and both were amazing. But both these meals were trumped by dinner on our We watched in last night, prepared in house fascination as a by Mudana himself. He’d conga line of staff spent the day shopping for fresh ingredients at various made there way markets and prepared for through our villa. us a traditional Balinese banquet comprising homemade sate sticks, fish curry, rice, lots of vegetable and, on my special request, beef rendang. I’d become addicted to this recipe when I spent three months backpacking around Indonesia in my youth and was dying to try it again, but failed to find a warung in Seminyak that could cook it well. Mudana’s, however, was cooked to perfection and accompanied with a jar of fresh sambal (homemade chili). And if that wasn’t enough, he spent the next three hours playing with our guests’ five-year-old boy while concurrently serving us and clearing dirty dishes. But, as is always the case, Mudana wanted something in return. And with two young children to care for, it wasn’t hard to guess what he wanted. Or so I thought… “When you write your magazine story,” he said, “can you please tell everyone who comes here that I will look after them the same way I looked after you?” FRV
www.spacebali.com FRV Travel l 59
MENJANGANGETAWAY
Up and Over Mimpi Resort Menjangan
Text and Images by Thomas Jones
In the northwest corner of Bali is a resort that lies at the gateway of the wilds of the island. A place of mangroves, savannah, coral reefs, sunshine and extreme comfort known as the Mimpi Resort and Spa. Thomas Jones checks in for some adventure and relaxation.
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he Mimpi Resort Menjangan is a special place on the inner reaches of a natural harbour where the mangroves grow tall and proud on the fringes of the West Bali National Park. The owner bought 4.5 hectares of coastal land in 1998 and, after discovering a geothermal spring, developed the resort using only 40% of the land, choosing to leave the rest in gardens and natural forest due to the scarcity of water in North Bali. The only water the resort has onsite is that which comes from their spring and this is only used for the hot pools and the local community. They have to buy the rest, and they recycle their grey water through the kitchen gardens and plumbing systems. They are extremely aware of the importance of the fragility of their local environment and are heavily involved in helping the fragile ecology of the region maintain its foothold, including working to regenerate the coral reefs around the park.
From these springs, 16 of the villas are supplied with their own natural hot pools. So, after a three-hour motorcycle ride up from Seminyak in the south of Bali, when I was shown into the courtyard of my villa with not one, but two pools – one cold, one hot – I could hardly wait for the bellhop to leave. All I wanted to do was to ease my weary road-damaged joints and muscles into that sulphuric-smelling hot water. As soon as he left, the bolt went on the door, clothes on the floor and into the pool. Oh, it was good! After 30 minutes or so of recovery, it was time for a wander through the estate to get an idea of the resort layout. In the centre is a large swimming pool that looks over the gardens, which are full of towering canopy rainforest trees. Shady meandering pathways lead down to the water’s edge where most of the resort facilities are located; the dive centre, restaurant,
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another swimming pool, the spa and two more hot pools. Here, the inner harbour area is filled with mangroves, and the skyline is dominated by five tall volcanic peaks just a short distance away on the eastern edge of Java. The tide was high so I grabbed a kayak and paddle and headed out onto the water for a bit of exploration under the mangrove canopy for a couple of hours. Then as the day’s end drew near it was time for a spa treatment before slipping into one of the hot pools at sunset with a cold drink in hand to take in the serenity. How perfect is that!
The next day it was time for some adventure and over breakfast asked the staff for some recommendations. Mimpi Resort offers all sorts of tours to guests including boat trips to nearby Menjangan Island for some great snorkelling, or guided walks in the National Park in the hope of seeing some of Bali’s native wildlife. A highlight is a trip to the Bali starling pre-release centre, a conservation project designed to protect this very rare and beautiful bird for eventual release into the wild. Seeing as it was a glorious day I was up for some underwater action, and after kitting
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Facing page: Hot pools, kayaks and mangroves; freeloading boat passengers; and a warning about the wildlife.
Above: The volcanoes of Java challenge the serenity somewhat; the villa’s pool and hot tub.
up with snorkel and mask at the resort we motored out through the channel under a hot sun and onto blue seas, protected by the boat’s canopy for the 30-minute ride to the island. The island is protected as part of the National Park and its reefs are teaming with fish and underwater life. I snorkelled for about two hours all up and then circumnavigated the island by boat taking in the mixed scenery of forest and coastline with the eerie backdrop of those Javan volcanoes just across the Bali Strait; a stark reminder that we humans are a pretty insignificant blip on the Earth’s radar.
Taking the initiative to head out of Kuta you will see that there’s more to Bali than the party palaces of the south. The northwest of Bali is a The island is stunning locale just crying protected and its out for a visit, in particular the Mimpi Resort, and it is reefs are teaming a reminder of all the things with fish. that come to mind when thinking of the tropics; calm blue seas, coral reefs, white tropical sands, palm trees and warm sea breezes, and only a few hours drive from the airport. FRV
Mimpi Resort Menjangan Banyuwedang, Northwest Bali Tel: +62 362 94497 www.mimpi.com FRV Travel l 63
BALIdining
The Mozaic Beach Club on the beach in Batubelig Text: David Trauts
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eminyak, or better said, Batubelig, has a new hip and totally cool place to hang on the beach for sunset and beyond. It’s top-end and it’s fine-dining all the way. The Mozaic Beach Club, the brainchild of chef Chris Salans and part of the Mozaic Group, has just opened and offers poolside chill-out tapas, lunch on the deck, a fine dining restaurant and so close to the Batubelig Beach waves you can just about touch them. FRV Travel had a unique opportunity to experience the new beach club and restaurant shortly after opening and while it’s still early days and points like service and the dust settling process are still in the making, the first impressions were extremely good. We sat down to a magnificent meal on the top level of the restaurant presented by English Executive
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Chef James Ephraim, who is a four year protégé of master chef and Mozaic Ubud’s head honcho, Chris Salans. The views are stupendous over the beach and flavours equal to match. The large deck and poolside bar and lounge on the beach level, situated only a few steps away from the new W Hotel, is the ideal design and has made perfect use of the space available. Combining Salans’ culinary genius and hospitality savoir faire, his flair for great service and the expertise of a team he has assembled over the years, the Mozaic Beach Club is set to be the next big thing around the Petitenget/Batubelig end of town. To get there just turn left along the top of the beach past Balisani Suites at the end of Jalan Batubelig. FRV
Mozaic Beach Club Jl. Pantai Batu Belig, Kerobokan, Bali Indonesia Tel +62 361 4735796 www.mozaic-beachclub.com
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JAKARTAKERATON
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Indonesian-inspired furnishings, specially made by Grahacipta Hadiprana, in the lounge.
A Most Luxurious Address Text by Erza S.T.
Left: The grandiose lobby featuring a stunning chandelier as the centrepiece.
Despite being one of the biggest cities in Asia, Jakarta appears to fall behind its near neighbors when it comes to popularity and attractiveness. Jakarta may be a rather shy city, one that is not as organized as Singapore, or as advanced as Hong Kong. However, once you find the right angle, the city will definitely reveal to you its charm and beauty.
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rom the exciting culinary landscape to what some would say the best parties and one of the best social scenes in the region, it’s all happening in Jakarta and one of the latest must-visit attractions is The Keraton at The Plaza. Before it even opened its doors word of mouth was buzzing strongly on the street, and when it finally did open last May, Jakarta went wild. Our verdict is that the Keraton at The Plaza is definitely the most beautiful luxurious business hotel there is in Jakarta to date. The reasons we think so start with the hotel’s great design. The Keraton at The Plaza is all about privacy, tranquility and elegance, impressions that immediately reveal themselves once guests enter the grand lobby of the hotel. With its high ceiling and stunning chandelier, the lobby is inhabited with hues of silver, grey and black lacquered frames, with a few pieces of Indonesian-inspired bric-abrac in the corners to create a unique ambience and personal identity. FRV Travel l 67
Meaning “palace” in Javanese, The Keraton is a reinterpretation of royal Indonesian palace heritage that mixes contemporary and traditional design in all 140 rooms and suites. As a result, the rooms are not only spacious but also have a modern grandiose nuance. During our stay in a junior suite we had an amazing view of Jakarta’s skyline. Finished in a quiet celadon colour, with wooden parquet floors and warm lighting it is also equipped with free WiFi, an IPod dock and a Nespresso machine. We also enjoyed the spacious bathroom that includes a shower room and a big stand-alone bathtub. Aside from its well-implemented concept and first class service, the hotel also has a prime location on Jalan Thamrin, the city’s most prestigious address. It is also connected to Plaza Indonesia, the playground of the fashionistas and socialites of Jakarta, and to experience this hotel, even for a short business trip, it may show you a new side of Jakarta that is more sophisticated and enchanting. Just take a seat in the hotel’s fine-looking lounge and order a cappuccino. You will understand what we mean. FRV
The lobby; a Junior Suite; Bengawan restaurant on the 7th floor.
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The Keraton at The Plaza Jl. MH. Thamrin Kav. 15 Jakarta, Indonesia. www.luxurycollection.com/keraton
Aside from its wellimplemented concept and first class service, the hotel also has a prime location on Jalan Thamrin.
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OVERNIGHTSINGAPORE
Text: Darren Dylan
Rest and Recreation There’s more to Singapore than just Orchard Road, and for this reason I decided to explore a different part of the island to see what’s on offer.
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it turns out, Singapore is packed with many hidden gems including one that I found in Singapore’s upscale residential district of Noven, which goes by the name of The Forest by Wangz. Owned by the Wangz family, it’s a serviced residence that caters to guests that plan to stay for longer than a week on the island and is their second hotel after the boutique Wangz Hotel in Outram Park. Although relatively new to the hospitality business, the Wangz family has successfully created a strong brand identity that is noticeable from the moment guests step foot in the lobby. Showcasing a coollooking colour-changing facade, the building blends harmoniously with the neighborhood and is compact and easy to access—just the way we like it. The interior promotes the idea that guests are in a tropical forest, and far away from the concrete jungle of Singapore, and is enhanced by a large private collection of specially commissioned artworks of Singapore pop artist Andre Tan. Each room comes with a modern kitchenette and, thanks to the design of the building, by closing the extra doors on the corridors several rooms can be sectioned off to create a private section for groups looking for a larger and more personal space. Being an upscale neighbourhood the views from the room take in the surrounding large and expensive homes and condominiums, making it feel like we were part of the Singapore life and not just outside visitors of the Lion City. Located near the financial district, the MRT is only a short 10-minute-walk from the hotel. Within a one km radius are some fine shops and restaurants, and for guests who need to stop by the Orchard Road shopping belt for some serious retail therapy, it is just a short taxi ride away. FRV
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LOMBOKGETAWAY
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After much delay Lombok’s new and improved airport opened in late 2011 making it easier to access the wonderful pristine beaches of the south coast. Thomas Jones flew back in for a look at what’s on offer.
Images and Text by Thomas Jones
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he increased size of Lombok’s new airport isn't just opening retail opportunities for Lombok islanders and tourists, it is also a major source of entertainment for the local communities who flock to the chain link fences surrounding the runway each evening to watch the handful of planes arriving and departing, and with it the promise of a brighter future for all. There are a few security issues with cows on the runway and people taking shortcuts through holes in the fence but in these early days it’s all part of the tropical charm and hopefully will be ironed out with time. In the meantime it's a novelty that has not yet worn thin. Tourism hasn’t reached adulthood yet in South Lombok. Innocent and beautiful, it doesn’t have the cynicism and decadence that can be seen in the more built up parts of Bali, for example, and while the cargo cult at the airport is bustling in anticipation, to the south, Kuta is still taking it easy. Not to be confused with Bali’s famous beach – Kuta, Lombok feels like the Wild West. There is one French-owned five star resort nearby but for the most part the accommodation is pretty basic. It’s a one-, maybe two-horse town with a handful of streets with small restaurants, shops and budget hotels and guesthouses, still mainly FRV Travel l 73
in the hands of locals, and filled with surfers and low cost backpacker types and everything is so laid back it's almost falling over.
Belanak where the potholes stop and the road quality improves no end as it heads inland again in the direction of the airport.
Although it’s a place to come to with no expectations of grandeur, but signs of development can be felt on the wind with a few villas and developments starting to crop up. But for now it's still a grass hut and bamboo culture with Bar, Why Not? being a classic example. Taking full advantage of the views west across Kuta beach and offering cold beers, cocktails and magic muchrooms for the daring (while not strictly il-legal, they are not for the faint of heart), they blare Bob Marley’s universal message of love through their sound system while offering an unforgettable sunset experience at the end of each day with sand beneath your toes.
After spending two nights in Kuta, we rented a couple of scooters and headed off to stay at Villa Atas, a fully-staffed, two-bedroom villa overlooking Selong Belanak Beach, and our 'flash as' home for the next three days. The drive there was something else. Along this stretch of road, over high headlands and through rural villages, the many bays and beaches are secluded and beyond picturesque with sand like sugar and names like Mawi, Mawan and Tampa, where we stopped to swim and take photos of the biteshaped bays with coconut palms, fishing boats and perfect swimming conditions. Remote it may be but an enterprising young man named Din has set up shop on the forgotten far western corner at Mawi Beach under a giant shady tree, serving hot noodles, biscuits, snacks, sarongs, fresh coconuts and cold beer. What more could you possibly need?
The real magic, however, is found outside of Kuta, along the damaged and rutted roads that hug the coast to the west towards Selong
Perched on top of a lone hill that stands in the very centre of Selong Belanak Bay, and consisting of two modern, octagonal-shaped, interconnected pavilions with wrap-around decks and windows, Villa Atas commands such views that must be seen to be believed. Centre stage is a large infinity pool facing southwest that took up much of our time, while the staff cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner, kept our drinks cold and topped them up throughout the days and nights. It has satellite TV, WiFi, and 24-hour security and transport, this is great base for some serious fishing, surfing, snorkelling or just hanging out by the pool or on the beach catching a tan. There is a small handful of other villas dotted about the hill below Villa Atas and they all have access to an onsite restaurant down on the flat called Laut Biru (Blue Ocean). It is housed in a groovy bamboo and thatch building in beautifully landscaped grounds and serves up a gourmet selection of Asian and Western
The real magic, however, is found outside of Kuta, along the damaged and rutted roads that hug the coast.
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Facing page: Renting a scooter will gain you access to some incredible spots, and hammock worship is essential.
Top: The view from the swimming pool at Villa Atas, overlooking Selong Belanak Beach.
Bottom: Why Not Bar in Kuta for sunset cocktails, and the entrance ‘toll’ gate for Mawan Beach.
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Kuta Lombok’s long sweeping bay with white sands and fishing boats, and the two rural staples of Lombok agriculture: buffalo and rice.
Along this
dishes, desserts and cocktails in a seriously stretch of road slick operation. They the beaches are also have a beach secluded and club of sorts down on the water’s edge picturesque with with plenty of shade sand like sugar. trees, hammocks and deck chairs for a total get-away-from-it-all experience, with attendants on call to bring the drinks. All in all it looks like some serious thought is being given to expanding the Indonesian tourist markets beyond Bali, and South Lombok is near the top of the list. Infrastructure and roads have been improved for the inevitable but at the moment they are huge and wide yet still empty. So, before the hordes start cottoning on to the true beauty of Lombok, it may be a good idea to get there while the getting’s good. FRV
Getting there There are several flights a day from Bali and Jakarta on Garuda, Merpati and Lion Air. Silk Air flies direct from Singapore. www.villaataslombok.com FRV Travel l 77