IDR 48.000 - SGD $10.50 - HKD $55.00 - MYR RM26.00 - AUD $10.00 - TWD $230 - THB 190
fashion restaurants and villas | bali & southeast asian style & travel
edition 7.3, oct nov ‘10 Rp. 48.000
Thailand The land of smiles, beaches, jungles and big city bars in the sky
Bali
Villas, Health Lifetstyles, Lagoons, Food and Fashion Private Lagoon Life At
ST.REGIS
Rp. 48.000
Paris, Rome The New Asian Riviera
Fivelements
d e s i g n f o o d a r c h i t e c t u r e f a s h i o n a r t w i n e r e s t a u FRVr Travel a nl 1 t s
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October november 2010
CONTENTS FEATURES 68 Mercury in Retrograde
Trauts rekindles his love and loses his passport under the sunny skies of Surin Beach Phuket.
88 Is There Any Better Meal Than Brunch?
Thomas Jones takes his time to fill to bursting at the Four Seasons Bangkok Sunday Brunch.
94 Kakadu
Nick Walton meets his very own “Crocodile Dundee” in the wilds of northern Australia.
98 George V, s’il vous plait!
George V hotel in Paris, need we say more?
134 Roman Holiday 2010
Erza skips in Audrey Hepburn’s footsteps through the ancient ruins of the Eternal City.
138 Keeping the Spirits at Bay
A tale of adventure for Cracker in Kalimantan chasing away ghosts and pirates with cannons and rock music.
On The Cover and page 30:
The Lagoon Villas at St. Regis Resort Bali meet designs from Rico Anantha in this issue.
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October November 2010
CONTENTS
26 The Artistic Energy of Villa Joss
Rachel Love finds art for art’s sake in this beautiful Seminyak holiday rental villa.
38 The Magic of Fivelements Puri Ahimsa
Rachel Love gets a healthy dose of veganism, Balinese healing and a spiritual realignment of her chakras.
42 Balmy KUVÉ Nights
Trauts makes a date at KUVÉ, turns up the lights and gets the party rocking.
50 Best Kept Secret “8”
Erza proves he can’t keep a secret by spilling the beans on this little Jakarta dining gem in Pacific Place.
52 Aulia S
FRV Travel catches up with S. Aulia Masjhoerdin, GM Aston Rasuna Jakarta for the industry’s inside scoop.
54 Mi en su Casa
124
Erza revisits one of his favourite restaurants, Casa and finds his F&B favourites still on the menu.
Singapore’s new Marina Bay Sands Hotel and Casino is open for business..
58 Au Revoir, Classic French.
Ve Handojo does lunch with Chef Renaud Le Rasle and discovers that spice and French cooking do mix.
80 Chiang Mai Surprise!
Relaxation and overeating hold sway for Thomas Jones at the Four Seasons Chiang Mai.
84 It’s All Downhill From Here
114
Rachel Love talks to artist Eva Schumy.
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Erza seeks out more of the best tastes from the streets of Jakarta. 8 l FRV Travel
Thomas Jones dines on the literal top of Bangkok and experiences a genuine Thai high.
62
Mixology
Bits & Pieces 15 Overnight Etihad 46 Overnight Mercure 48 Beverages 102 FRV Zodiac 144 FRV Listings 146 Last Word 162
92 Époisses de Bourgogne
More stinky French cheeses for your smelling and tasting pleasure.
106 Mango Tango
Sentosa’s William Collier presents three simple recipes guaranteed to impress your friends at your next dinner party.
112 A First Class Singer
FRV talks to Japanese opera singer and businesswoman Seia Lee about her passions; travel and singing.
130 Enter the Dragon
Thomas Jones revisits the Ritz-Carlton Singapore, loves the art but can’t get enough of the dragon’s feng shui.
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PT K ubu Dua Me dia J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Tel. +62 361 746 3751/52. Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@finerestaurantsandvillas.com www.fine re sta ura ntsa nd villa s.c om Dire c tor Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Sya ffri Soe wa rd i (artwork@fine re sta ura ntsa nd villa s.c om) Gra phic s Te guh Ana nta Photogra phy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Da rre n Soh Distribution Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I c ul, Ma d e i nfo@fine re sta ura ntsa nd villa s.c om F ina nc e Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Ma rk e ting Bra vina Eme ria , Anton (sales@finerestaurantsandvillas.com) Administra tion Gina , Yuni, Nurul fashion,
restaurants
and
villas
Contributors Ve Ha nd ojo, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Me la nie Le e , R a c he l Love , Thoma s Jone s, He rma n Von B e r nha rd i Agua yo, Ke nny Sa nta na . S ubsc ription Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 250,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @fine re sta ura ntsa nd villa s.c om Send e-mail to the above for details. Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@fine re sta ura ntsa nd villa s.c om) Legal Associates Agus Sa mija ya & Pa rtne rs Gra ha Asa , Jl. Ka p te n Cok Agung Tre sna 49 Re non, De np a sa r. Te l: +62 361 242447, 247302, 08123924509. FRV Travel magazine is an independent, bi-monthly public a tion Ne xt e dition de a dline Nove mbe r 15, 2010
FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y th ose of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Tr a ve l m a ga zin e is pr in te d by P T M e ga I n da h (T: 02161 9 0 5 2 9 ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s (In d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , F o re i g n P re s s ( H o n g K o n g ) , P a n s i n g D i s t r i b ut i o n (M a l a y s i a ) a n d N a t i o n B o o k s I n t e r n a t i o n a l ( T h a i l a n d ) . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .
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Edition 7. 3
Oct - Nov ‘ 1 0
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Editor’s Thought FRV Travel – It takes you places As La Niña brings inclement weather to our region we are hoping for clearer skies for the remainder of this year. One of the things I noticed after missing the plane in Phuket for Jakarta and flying instead to Singapore and then on to Jakarta the same day while coming back from the Phuket Riviera story, was how close everything is in this region. We had a choice that day of going via KL, Medan, Bangkok, or Singapore to get back to Jakarta and the weather where we stopped was all more or less the same. It’s an amazing part of the world this middle Southeast Asia and one that’s totally taken for granted by most. Thanks to Air Asia and other well organized and affordable airlines this whole region has become that much more accessible. We hope you get the chance to be part of and take full advantage of it soon, too.
In this edition of FRV Travel, Fashion, Restaurants and Villas are once again in the forefront, and our scribes travel to Phuket, Chiang Mai, Rome, Paris, Kakadu in Australia, Pontianak in Kalimantan, Singapore and there is also an abundance of stories from Bali and Jakarta right here in Indonesia. Since we distribute and sell more magazines in Thailand than anywhere else outside Indonesia, Thailand has featured a lot in this edition and will again more in the future. We hope you enjoy this edition of FRV Travel magazine. Send comments, gripes and letters to: editor@finerestaurantsandvillas.com
FRV CONTRIBUTORS
David Trauts Correspondent, English. Trauts had the chance to return to Thailand after a few year’s absense. No red shirts or carnage in the streets to be seen, but wasn’t surprised after seeing the way the international press hypes up everything negative in regard to Indonesia too. Phucket is bouncing back and he’s happy taxi drivers there are an honest lot.
Erza S.T. In love with the charm of Europe, this opera producer knows how to get there in style (read: business class). Destinations this time involving the art scene in Geneve, Zurich, Oslo and Venice as well as doing a quick sightseeing tour in Rome. Back in J-town, Erza found the new hidden garden of Eden in the city as well as the latest Mod Oz dining option. It has been a busy month.
Ve Handojo After completing his East Borneo trip in Balikpapan, Ve Handojo is back in Jakarta, reporting from a new Italian restaurant, a German bar, a diner, and an underground fondue place. Now you know why he’s gained 10 kg in the last two months. If you’re on Twitter, find @VeHandojo, and give him diet tips.
Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel is one of Bali’s most prolific authors, writing extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.
Thomas Jones A whirlwind of foreign travel and fine dining comes a-calling for Mr. Jones in the form of Paris’s best hotel, the new casino in Singapore, a long boozy lunch at the Four Seasons Bangkok and the rainforests and urban jungles of Thailand.
Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for the past 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show. FRV Travel l 13
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bits&PIECES
WHAT’S NEW, HOT AND COOL AROUND THE ISLAND OF BALI AND THE SE ASIAN REGION
Festivals Galore Promise a Grand October The culture of film and print descends on the island. Bali will be awash with culture in October and book and film lovers will be gushing with cerebral and spiritual overload as both the BALINALE and the Ubud Readers and Wrirers Festival kick off in October. Entering its fourth year the BALINALE International Film Festival launches its finest program to date from 12 to 17 October 2010 bringing together a wealth of talent from around the globe with films covering many genres. Founded by Christine Hakim and Deborah Gabinetti, the festival continues to make connections between Indonesian and International filmmakers. This year’s festival program includes open discussions with visiting filmmakers and industry professionals, along with Audience Choice Awards, a short film competition and family film program are also a featured part of the festival. Of course the big draw, depending on which side of the gender fence you sit, will be the Bali opening night premiere of Eat, Pray, Love; a sure fire thing to excite the local crowd. This was the first major studio film shot in the country contributing an estimated US$12.5 million to the local economy, not to mention the anticipated hundreds of millions of dollars to be generated through tourism, foreign investment and global exposure. On the other side of the island and cerebral hemisphere the 10th Ubud Writers & Readers Festival, which kicks off on October 6th and runs through to the 10th. This year’s theme is ‘Bhinneka Tunggal Ika: Harmony in Diversity’, the Indonesian national motto originating from the Sutasoma, an ancient Javanese text which advocates respect between all people, across religious, ethnic and social divides. The brightest global writers will come together to debate the issues that divide and unite us, in a celebration of stories and voices. In 2010 there are writers from China, Malta, Djibouti, Palestine, Israel, Lebanon, India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Burma, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, France, Bosnia, Turkey, South Africa, Australia, the UK, Ireland, the US and Canada, and from across the Indonesian archipelago. A guaranteed mind opener. For complete festival programmes go to www.balinale.com www.ubudwritersfestival.com FRV Travel l 15
BITS&PIECES
EMILIE NEW CHEF
A new face in the kitchen at Emilie.
Chef Mikaël brings with him over 20 years of culinary experience to Emilie. Born and raised in La BauleEscoublac, a commune in the Loire-Atlantique region in western France, Mikaël Robin’s earliest childhood memories are deeply intertwined with food and his fondness for it. This culinary proclivity cemented his choice for a career in gastronomy, when at the tender age of 16, he enrolled in a work-study program at CIFAM in Sainte-Luce-sur-Loire. Chef Mikaël has travelled extensively to pursue his passion and career. His international experience includes time spent at Billesley Manor Hotel in Warwickshire, Nicholas in New Jersey, aboard the Sea Goddess I, a Cunard luxury cruise liner and as a chef consulant with Raffles Beijing Hotel during the 2008 Olympic Games. Back in Paris in 2003, he assumed the duties and responsibilities of Chef de Cuisine at Felix before advancing his career to Le Royal Monceau where he worked for four years under Chef Christophe Pelé. His last position was Senior Chef de Partie at L’Espadon, a two Michelin star restaurant at the prestigious Hôtel Ritz in Paris under Chef Michel Roth. www.emilierestaurant.com
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METIS 1st ANNIVERSARY Retro Disco party night in October. In mid-October METIS is celebrating their first anniversary in grand style. After a successful first year of their now very popular restaurant, Doudou and Said are putting on an unforgettable evening of fine food, wine and song at the Petitenget venue. Don’t miss a superlative four course gala dinner specially designed by Chef Doudou, and a soulful jazz performance to get you in the right mood for the evening, plus an array of original shows and a never-before seen video. Book now and don’t be late. Saturday, 16th October 2010. Admission Tickets for IDR 150,000 (includes one mix drink). Party starts at 11 PM. For dinner reservations and information please call +62 361 737 888 or email reservations@metisbali.com.
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ASTON INTERNATIONAL OPENs new NUSA DUA RETREAT
Aston International announced that the they are preparing to open Bali’s newest luxury boutique villa resort, The Nusa Dua Retreat, on Friday October 1st, 2010. Situated on a charming hillside on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula, right above the world class resort destination of Nusa Dua, The Nusa Dua Retreat will afford stunning views over the Indian Ocean and easy access to the nearby secluded Kutuh Beach.
The Second jcf is coming
Chefs unite again in Jakarta for a month long culinary feast.
Following last year’s success, Jakarta Culinary Festival is returning for second time to Jakarta. The culinary festival presented by Ismaya Group will be held from 4th to 30th of November at Level 5 Grand Indonesia. This year’s event will feature a lineup of international Masterchefs including Santi Santamaria, 3 star Michelin winner Alvin Leung, Frank Camorra (Australia), Edward Kwon of The Spice (Korea), Ryan Clift of Tippling Club (Singapore) and Jared Ingersoll (Australia) will showcase their culinary expertise. A local lineup of chefs will also take part such as Chris Salan from Mozaic Bali, Will Meyrick of Sarong Bali, Aldo Volpi of Social House, Chef Sandra Djohan, Farah Quinn, Andhika Maxi, and Chef Tatang. The objective of the JCF is to showcase some of the best in the culinary world and educate new believers in the importance and beauty of fine dining and creative cooking. For more information contact Febby Anwar (08161155952) or Fina M. Pardede (085210600065)
Being a boutique villa resort with the character of an elegant hideaway retreat the new property has been kept small and will feature 41 private pool villas - of which 23 offer rooftop sundecks - and a lavish three-bedroom residence. Resort facilities will include a full service destination spa, a large infinity edge pool, a smart / casual café overlooking the surrounding countryside and nearby Indian Ocean, a romantic semi fine dining restaurant, a pool lounge and bar and a state of the art gym and yoga studio. Norbert Vas, Aston International’s VP of Sales & Marketing said, “Compared to our other villa resorts in the main areas of Bali this new resort will be quite different and unique in the sense that it is a truly remarkable retreat with a very appealing and secluded location. Service concepts such as private butlers, personalized excursions and VIP airport meet and greet assistance will be offered to all guests; since we want to touch them on an emotional level service will be the main point of differentiation.” www. astonhotelsandresorts.com FRV Travel l 17
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Cita Di Alam October 17, fashion takes centre stage. The Association of Indonesian Fashion Designers and Entrepreneurs, Bali Chapter, (APPMI Bali) will be holding its annual “Fashion Tendance” on 17th October 2010 at the prestigious The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali. The show is a forecast on next year’s trends in fashion and this year’s event has adopted the theme “Cita di Alam” (Feelings on Nature) and hopes to raise awareness of the fragile state of our environment. They will showcase the latest collections in a highly charged fashion show from designers such as Ali Charisma, Angeliqa Wu, Dwi Iskandar, Eny Ming, Oka Diputra, Putu Aliki, Tjok Aby and Tude Togog. Established in 2004 the association now boasts 15 young and talented members whose works are sold in numerous boutiques all over the world as well as Bali. Seats at the show are very much sought after, and indeed their last show was voted as Bali’s Best Fashion Event by the illustrious Beat magazine.
AirAsia X says “Konichiwa” Japan and “no’ to fuel charge AirAsiaX, the Malaysian-based long-haul, low-fare airline announced in September its latest international route from Kuala Lumpur to Tokyo, Japan; the twelfth destination for the airline after Australia, India, Taiwan, China, Europe and Korea. AirAsia X will commence services and fly direct to Haneda International Airport on 9 December, 2010 with three non-stop weekly services between Kuala Lumpur and the Japanese capital. Haneda is a more convenient option than Narita thanks to its proximity to Tokyo. Azran Osman-Rani, Chief Executive Officer, AirAsia X, said “AirAsia X’s commencement of direct services to Tokyo from Kuala Lumpur is a new addition to our long-haul Asian network after Korea. We are pleased our long standing ambition has finally pulled through and as the largest metropolitan city in the world; Tokyo represents an important feeder market into our growing international network. The thrice-weekly flights will strengthen our historic business and tourism links with Japan’s commercial centre, adding real convenience and providing affordable international travel for everyone. We estimate that more than 60 per cent of AirAsia X passengers to and from Tokyo will be first time visitors, which will contribute significantly to tourism growth, allowing AirAsia X to open up new market 18 l FRV Travel
segments from Tokyo. This will further boost tourism traffic into Malaysia from Japan, which has already shown an increase in visitor arrivals in 2010 compared to last year.” In other good news, the airline has resolved once again to continue with its policy of maintaining its no fuel surcharge policy despite reports that other airlines are increasing previously imposed charges. Air Asia is committed to keeping air travel affordable for all and has chosen to tackle fuel price hikes with aggressive marketing and the strengthening of its ancillary business instead of relying on fuel surcharge to offset rising fuel cost. “AirAsia scrapped out fuel surcharge in November 2008, and we have no intention of resurrecting it,” said Kathleen Tan, Regional Head of Commercial, AirAsia.
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BITS&PIECES
Leonard Cohen to Play Mekong Sessions in Cambodia 2010 The master of the metaphor comes to Phnom Penh. To celebrate and contribute to the restoration of Phnom Penh, Cambodia, the legend of the morose lyric, Leonard Cohen will perform at the Olympic Stadium on November 27, 2010, with proceeds going to aid victims of Cambodia’s recent tragic past, through the Cambodian Red Cross. Olympic Stadium was once the most prized arena in all of Southeast Asia. The distinct structure is a rare example of the work of famous Khmer architect, Vann Molyvan. His designs combine high modernism with elements of classical Khmer design and are a visual reminder of the days of Phnom Penh’s former cultural stature. Exotissimo Travel has special concert and tour packages for fans eager to experience the Canadian legend playing this historic concert
and offers single packages that include flights from anywhere in the world, concert tickets and accommodation. The overall experience is designed to ensure that first time visitors, Southeast Asia lovers or expatriates are able to maximise their enjoyment of the country with this momentous event. Olivier Colomès, CEO of Exotissimo Travel said, “We are very pleased and excited to have been selected as the exclusive tour operator for the pioneering and legendary Mekong Sessions featuring some of the world’s greatest artists. Having a name like Leonard Cohen play in Phnom Penh marks the city’s return to being the cultural centre it once was. “ www.exotissimo.com
It Just Keeps Getting Easier Jetstar checks in with Hong Kong in-town check-in. Low-cost carrier Jetstar is making travel between Hong Kong from Singapore even easier with the introduction of in-town check in at MTR Airport Express at Hong Kong and Kowloon stations in August in a move to offers more options to passengers and benefits to their growing number of business and short-break leisure travellers. Check in facilities for Jetstar passengers will be available during Airport Express opening hours on the day of flight departure and passengers will be required to collect their boarding passes no later than 90 minutes before the flight departure. Jetstar will be the first value based carrier to offer this convenient service to its customers.
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BITS&PIECES
KuDeTa Urban Styles From sea level to the top of the town. The opening of KuDeTa in Singapore in mid-September has been a topic on many people’s lips for the longest time with much excitement and buzz being created around the iconic Bali venue’s first foray into the urban market. Ku De Ta Singapore will span across 14,500 square feet of the rooftop at the Marina Bay Sands SkyPark and is comprised of a whole multitude of different strokes for different folks. The Club Lounge is a cozy setting featuring plush banquettes, a sleek modern bar and a intimate dance floor and this connects onto the Vue Terrace, which of course takes in that outstanding skyline view. This will obviously be the most crowded part of the venue and has a large open-air bar and a state of the art Funktion-One sound system. Next is the 230-seater restaurant and its indoor and al fresco dining. Helmed by Executive Chef, Dan Segall, who was also responsible for award-winning eateries such as Zuma in Hong Kong, His specialty is modern Asian cuisine. It will open early morning for those looking for a hearty breakfast and will not close its kitchen until the last guest leaves for the night. But the party ain’t over yet, the restaurant is linked to the Sky Bar, a circular drinking venue, which sits on top of the SkyPark’s public observation deck which has some of the best views in Asia. From sea level to the troposphere, where will they go next?
Thailand Bouncing Back Report reveals soaring arrivals as Phuket leads Thailand’s tourism recovery. Passenger traffic through Phuket International Airport surged 28% in the first half of this year marking a dramatic recovery for the island as it leads Thailand’s tourism revival and a return to the boom year of 2007. According to the mid-year edition of Phuket Market Update, a research publication released by leading hospitality consulting firm, C9 Hotelworks, the road to recovery has firmly begun with higher hotel occupancies and a game changing shift in tourist profile that is driving growth. C9 Hotelworks Managing Director Bill Barnett said one clear indication of the bounce back is by hotel-wide performance statistics, with occupancies rising from 61% in 2009 to 70% in the same period of this year, although
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this did come at a cost of average room rates - down 9%, thus reducing incomes in real terms. Another factor affecting the potential financial heath of the tourist economy is the shift in tourist demographics which is seeing a shift away from the traditional long-stay European in favour of regional travellers who tend to stay for shorter periods. “Market dynamics are evolving with a game changing shift in tourist profiles from a historical Eurocentric dependence on long-haul European visitors to short-haul Asian travellers,” says Barnett. “Driving this trend is the weakening of the euro and the pound which have jolted market sentiment and transformed travel patterns to the resort island destination.”
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BALI COCOON BITS&PIECES
All Wrapped Up in
Cocoon
Text Trauts, Photos Sulthon
C
ocoon is a stylish, indoor/outdoor restaurant and bar. It opened late June and quickly built a loyal after-dinner clubbing crowd but while still waiting for the dinner ensemble to gather steam it has the makings of being one of the top restaurants and venues in Bali.
The Design. Cocoon was designed by Freddo Taffin, the same designer of fabled KuDeTa and other ground-breaking entertainment venues and luxury villas in Bali. On the ground floor there are three distinct areas starting with the grand entrance where guests can pull up in their cars with valet parking available. The lobby lounge area features an enormous coned roof, sofas and bar. The indoor and outdoor dining area stretches along a space that fits 130 diners. Another bar separates the restaurant from the outdoor pool area, which features daybeds and casual seating for up to 400 guests. A DJ booth overlooks the scene like a centurion on duty, ready to provide the vibes. Upstairs there is another area available for functions that can seat a further110 people. The design of the venue allows adequate separation between the dining and bar/clubbing areas, and the predominantly white décor with a mix of bamboo and timber combined with the stylish outdoor areas exudes a modern Bali style. The Concept. Cocoon is a one stop venue for all
your entertainment needs. From fine dining, morning coffee to late-night cocktails it offers so much, and they have not missed a trick in creating this venue. Excellent and creative dining from English chef Steven Moore with Rock Pool Sydney credentials, Djs and a sound system good enough to cut through the spacious and stylish outdoor setting—with Spanish Dj legend Eric Entrenea as the resident Dj no less, they have created a destination restaurant and nightlife venue on the beach in Seminyak’s Blue Ocean/Double Six strip that has set the whole area in a new direction and level of standards. FRV
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©2010 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
REJUVENATE, RELEASE, REMÈDE Offering a new dimension to spas worldwide with our imported spa products and the latest facial and manicure, pedicure equipments, our menu features an exclusive selection of therapies and holistic treatments with a specialized section for men.
st regis new
Enjoy the calm tropical surroundings and with complimentary use of our Aqua Vitale Pool and aromatherapy steam room with your treatment, invigorate in the spirit of Remède.
kAwASAN PARiwiSATA NUSA DUA LOT S6 NUSA DUA . bALi 80363 . iNDONESiA STREgiS.cOM/bALi (62)(361) 8478 111
TO DAy: A S P E N AT L A N TA b A L i b E iJ i Ng bO R A b O R A D E E R cR E S T h AwA i i h O U S TO N L O N D O N M A L L O RcA M E x i c O c i T y M O N A Rc h b E Ac h N E w yO R k P U N TA M i TA RO M E SA N f R A N c i S cO S h A N g h A i S iNg A P O R E wA Sh i N g TO N , D. c .
STREgiS.cOM
© 2009 Starwood hotels & Resorts worldwide, Inc. FRV Travel l 25
Bali VILLA JOSS
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The contemporarystyled Villa Joss offers an abundance of space, natural light and places to relax.
The Artistic Energy Of Villa Joss By Rachel Love The holiday rental villas that stand out in Bali are the ones that endeavour to be different, especially in the Seminyak area, where contemporary-styled, elegantly-furnished villas continue to pop up like mushrooms in the rainy season. A sense of uniqueness, however, can be achieved in a variety of ways, such as specific theme or a celebration of art.
A
home that has been furnished and decorated with love imparts a special energy, and as soon as guests walk into Villa Joss, they will see just how much love, thought and good taste the owner has put into the design. This includes dramatic touches such as the spectacular hanging garden of trailing green vines that heralds the entrance, complete with a koi pond, water cascade and serene welcome statue. Situated less than five minute’s walk from Batu Belig Beach, the newly-completed property embraces all the comforts of modern tropical living while also presenting a taste of the Balinese culture through the owner’s remarkable collection of fine art.
The four bedrooms, stairwell, living spaces and garden of this delightful abode showcase some beautiful paintings and limited-edition lithoprints, as well as two majestic stone carvings, one of which is a 500 kilogram reclining Buddha crafted in river stone and resting against a glistening wall of water and gold-streaked Indian slate. The villa is comprised of four pavilions, including a two-storey sleeping pavilion, and a large open-sided ‘bale’ pavilion, complemented by spacious flat lawns, a swimming pool, outdoor jacuzzi, and a pool deck punctuated with big pots of flowering lotus.
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As visitors explore the living and dining pavilion, the entertainment room and business centre, and the four comfortable bedrooms, they will be introduced not only to some of Indonesia’s best known contemporary artists but also to the Hindu gods, quintessential ceremonies and rural landscapes that form the subjects of their work. In one of the master bedrooms, for example, hangs a painting entitled ‘Elephant Dance’, which illustrates the world of fantasy that Balinese artist Made Gunawan shares with his children. The owner commissioned the painting for his six-year-old daughter, after whom the villa is named. In another bedroom, ‘Odalan’ captures a temple anniversary ceremony in which artist Atjeng has interestingly used oils to achieve a moving pastel image of a beautiful Balinese procession winding its way down the hills to the beach. Indeed, the walls of Villa Joss abound with colourful art, but like many dwellings in Bali, the walls are limited due to our taste for open air living. In the spacious living & dining pavilion, an open plan feature kitchen rests against a slate-clad backsplash, with concertina glass doors on the other three sides of the room, which can be opened to invite the garden indoors. This trend continues through upstairs balconies, terraces and indoor-outdoor bathrooms with open-air showers and picture windows, to the large bale pavilion in the garden, which has been designed for both relaxing and alfresco dining. It is in these spaces, that guests at Villa Joss might be inspired to dream up new projects, and maybe even create some artwork of their own. FRV
Guests at Villa Joss might be inspired to dream up new projects, and maybe even create some artwork of their own. Facing page: One of four bedrooms, the pink-themed Joss Suite. The living & dining pavilion is characterised by a soaring timber-lined roof and concertina glass doors.
This page: The bale, pool, bathrooms and pool deck and sun loungers, as seen from the inside of the living room.
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COVER bali fashion
Private Lagoon Life at
ST.REGIS If you are looking for the ultimate in luxurious get-a-ways on the island of Bali, the St Regis Lagoon Villas must be the place for you. The day after St Regis’s second anniversary FRV Travel checks in for a splash in the Blue Lagoon. TEXT BY TRAUTS PHOTOS BY SULTHON
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The group of villas set around the central lagoon is like a secluded, luxury enclave amid the resort. 32 l FRV Travel
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he 24 Lagoon Pool Villas at St Regis Resort Bali are built around an enormous man-made pool. All the Lagoon Villas have private gardens, their own large private plunge pools and direct access to the main pool/lagoon area. The group of one- and two-bedroom villas set around the central lagoon is like a secluded, luxury enclave amid the resort. Checking into the St Regis was a minimum of fuss. We were ushered to a waiting golf cart by our personal butler and with bags in the back we winged our way to Lagoon Villa 818. We entered the two-bedroom villa through a small patio tropical garden at the front into the main living/dining room. Plenty of space and beautiful, classic furniture greets guests there. An en-suite bathroom and pantry kitchen connects from the living room, and both bedrooms, the master fronting the lagoon and a twin bed towards the rear, also lead from the living area. The bathrooms are exquisitely finished with luxurious white fixtures including
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The immensity of this Lagoon swimming pool is unknown and unseen until one gets in the water. 34 l FRV Travel
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a freestanding bathtub and mirrors are predominant throughout. Remedé bath ammenities are an extra enticement. The main bathroom also has its own 14” flat-screen TV while large flat screens are also in the bedrooms and living area. As the sun beat down we changed into our bathers and plunged into the lagoon. The immensity of this swimming pool is unknown and unseen until one gets in the water. Floating and swimming around the blue expanse one can feel the stress of a busy life ebbing from the shoulders and heading skyward. The pool has a number of thatched alang-alang huts with seating in the middle where shade can be found from the sun. Like all rooms and villas at St Regis, the Lagoon Villa is beautifully finished with elegant furnishings and understated class. The New York standard of the St Regis pedigree can be seen throughout the villa and resort and the service and attention to detail is ubiquitous. The Lagoon villas have a small attached space for a live-in 24-hour butler if required—perfect for guests that need a little more attention. Besides room service, the St Regis offers three dining outlets for guests. The Bonneka restaurant adjacent to the lobby has a magnificent breakfast buffet and a very special Sunday Brunch and is also open for dinner, while the beachside Kayaputi restaurant offers fine dining at its best for lunch and dinner. Try the Hot and Cold selection or go the entire degustation menu prepared by their international chefs to experience this restaurant properly. There’s also the option of buying the ingredients in the resort’s gourmet deli and making your own lunch or dinner in the villa’s private kitchen. The selection of gourmet produce there is scrumptious and lunch is also available on the patio in front of the deli. For families, honeymooners or couples, the Lagoon Villas offer so much for a Bali escape. With their elegant surroundings and décor, space and privacy, and that enormous lagoon-like swimming pool to while away the special hours of a romantic get-a-way, it can’t be surpassed. FRV
The St Regis Resort Bali Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia T: +62 361 8478 111 www.starwoodhotels.com/stregis
Model: Debby Pertiwi - Iam Model Management Wardrobe: Rico Anantha - www.anantha.de Hair & Makeup: Hairudin Didin Photos: Sulthon Styling: Donnie Ardhia
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For families, honeymooners or couples, the Lagoon Villas offer so much for a Bali escape. FRV Travel l 37
BALI FIVELEMENTS
The Magic of Fivelements
Puri Ahimsa
By Rachel Love Photos by Sulthon 38 l FRV Travel
To create space for life transformation and love in action. This is the concept and mission of the newlyopened Fivelements Puri Ahimsa, an extraordinarily beautiful and inspiring healing centre, located on the banks of the Ayung River near Mambal, about halfway between Denpasar and Ubud in Bali.
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uri Ahimsa is a place for learning to love and respect life through sacred arts, meditation, healthy eating and holistic therapies administered by traditional Balinese healers using ancient wisdoms. With eight healing rooms, a Watsu pool, a beauty sanctuary, multi-purpose pavilions, a restaurant, leisure pool and five luxurious sleeping suites, it offers guests a choice of day treatments or retreats with accommodation in magical surroundings, complete with a gourmet vegan menu of living and raw foods. The fact that there are only five sleeping suites makes the place very private and ideal for programmes, yet with three ‘Mandala’ spaces, which can host 300 people in total, Fivelements Puri Ahimsa is equally suitable for large events. “The project was approached in a holistic way from a natural and spiritual perspective”, says joint owner Chicco Tatriele. “Every project has an impact so we wanted to be as gentle as possible. We achieved this with the help of our eco consultant, Gove Depuy, who guided us through the learning process to create a sustainable and eco-conscious retreat.” After finding a remarkable spur of land on a bend in the wide and fast flowing Ayung River at the tiny village of Baturning, the six founders
set about creating a unique, environmentallyfriendly healing centre. It was a project driven by intent that took four years to complete. The vision was guided by the Balinese philosophies of life – ‘Tri Hita Karana’, which advocates that happiness and prosperity can only be attained if we all live in balance and harmony with God, other human beings, and the environment; and ‘Tri Kaya Parisudha’ meaning ‘Clean Mind, Clean Speech, Clean Action’. In his role as architect, Ketut Arthana, who is also a psychic, designed the overall layout using vastu (the traditional Hindu system of design based on directional alignments) and sacred geometry to meet the requirements of Balinese cosmology and sense of space. “We used Indonesian-sourced natural materials: recycled woods, bamboo, coconut wood, alang alang grass for the roofs, and local stone, including river rock, combined with hi-tech lighting and sound systems, investing money in eco solutions and Italian technology to reduce the use of energy,” says Chicco. “Also, 99 percent of the buildings are on stilts, so this allows us to change things more easily, if need be.” The timeless design of the healing rooms and sleeping pavilions
Lrft: This bamboo ‘Mandala’ is a multipurpose pavilion with a bamboo floor and a soaring grass roof that channels a strong beam of sunlight or moonlight through the glassed opening at the top. Above: Puri Ahimsa is located at the crossroads of eight major energy lines. A circular “sacred space” has been created over the “energy centre” and each of the energy lines has been marked with a large stone.
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was inspired by the curvilinear forms of sacred spirals. The dining room, with its sweeping thatched roof, was fashioned in the shape of a banana leaf, which is a symbol of food for the Balinese, who traditionally use banana leaves to wrap food, as a plate, and sometimes even folded as a spoon. The dining room has the capacity for 80, so it can host bigger groups. The interiors, meanwhile, reflect the talents of Chicco’s wife Lahra, who sourced handwoven Balinese textiles, museum-worthy antique treasures and other resonant flavours of the locale. “These simple touches are to acknowledge and remind guests that Bali is our host,” she explains. Antique double doors herald each healing room, coloured antique boxes originally used for storing lontar palm manuscripts can be found in every sleeping pavilion, and Songket fabrics from Klungkung, which typically take four months to make, grace each bed. “In fact much of this project is handmade.” High technology then comes into play through the underwater lighting system, which has been installed in the bathtubs and pools, 40 l FRV Travel
presenting all seven chakra colours so that guests can work through chromotheraphy. Additionally, underwater speakers have been fitted in both the swimming pool and the special circular pool designed for water therapies. ‘Sakti’ means energy and the ‘Sakti Dining Room’ is all about eating for energy… but with taste. The stunningly-presented, flavour-filled dishes include ‘Seitan Escalope’, comprising walnut-crusted caramelized seitan, mashed nori, sweet potatoes and baby green beans served with cardamon kecap sambal, and ‘Live Lasagna’ with layered cashew cheese, tomato marinara, basil pesto, baby spinach and marinated shitake mushrooms with béchamel herb sauce. Chef Made Runatha was sent to the Living Light Culinary Arts Institute in California to train in the preparation of raw and living foods, and is proud to be the first certified Balinese raw food chef. His exciting approach to this transformative cuisine shows people that they don’t have to sacrifice the beauty and pleasure of food in order to enjoy healthy eating. He explains, “The enzymes are kept alive and a
high nutritional value is retained, therefore providing immense vitality and life-force. After finishing lunch or dinner, guests will feel recharged and better than before. It’s uplifting, it makes people feel happier!” “In the healing section,” explains Chicco, “guests get the real thing. This is authentic Balinese healing, and the way that these Balinese healers administer their therapies is their way, these are their skills, so accordingly we are supporting who they are. Guests can truly benefit from custom-made programmes based on what they need and what they are looking for. We are just giving tools to people so that they become part of the healing process.” Treatments at Puri Ahimsa include Aquatic Bodywork, such as Watsu and Healing Dance in which the participant floats effortlessly while receiving gentle, water-assisted massage and yoga-like stretches. Energy Healing introduces the powerful ‘Panca Mahabhuta’ in which Pak Wayan works to balance the five elements of earth, water, fire, air and ether within the body. Also available are Chakra Balancing sessions to activate and balance the body’s seven energy centres, and
Left: The architecture of the Sakti Dining Room was inspired by the shape of a banana leaf. Right: The five sleeping pavilions are fashioned after sacred spirals and embellished with traditional songket textiles. Below: The dining room can host up to 80 guests.
The project was approached in a holistic way from a natural and spiritual perspective.
Prana Healing in which Pak Dewa scans and clears the aura of imbalances. Massage therapies include Deep Healing Reflexology, Acupressure, Invigorating Bodywork, Muscle Release and Chi Nei Tsang, the latter of which combines both gentle massage and energy work to increase circulation to the abdominal organs, while cleansing and invigorating the digestive system. Additionally, there is a menu of indulgent spa treatments using entirely fresh and natural products prepared on site in the Laboratorium, including superfoods such as chocolate. “Everyone goes home feeling happier” concludes Chicco. “We feel so honoured that people are leaving with big smiles.” FRV
www.fivelements.org FRV Travel l 41
BALI’S KUVE
Balmy KUVE Nights
By David Trauts | Photos by Sulthon, C Leggett & Mertha Kurnia
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It
was a Saturday evening near the end of the High Season and after telling a friend of mine how delightful Ku De Ta’s KUVÉ had become in its latest incarnation we decided we’d take the trip down there and try it again. One of the benefits of being a Bali local (who actually goes out sometimes) is that one does get to know all the people in the industry and Ku De Ta, being no exception, is full of familiar faces behind the bar, the waiting staff and management. It wasn’t until we arrived in the car park and saw the amount vehicles and people milling around that I remembered that on this particular Saturday night a band from Melbourne was playing live in the garden. At that moment I thought maybe it wasn’t the most auspicious time to try to find a table a KUVÉ, but how wrong I was. Walking through the side entrance, which was open for most of the High Season due to the temporary structures built at the main
entrance for the famed Ku parties, we walked straight into a sea of punters having sunset drinks and waiting for the band to begin. The atmosphere was electric and abuzz. I said hello to newguy (and floor manager of sorts), Jonah as we walked through and wondered aloud in his direction if there may be a table free in KUVÉ. Hey presto, Marcus and I were whisked up the stairs and after a few moments of negotiation with Jocelyn, Ku’s Functions and Events Manager, who happened to be overseeing proceedings upstairs that evening in KUVÉ, we were directed to the beachside corner table overlooking the whole scene below. We looked around and the place was packed. Kuve was rammed too and that corner table was the last empty table in the upstairs section. The lights were dimmed more than previous occasions I’d been there and on closer scrutiny we noticed that most of the tables in KUVÉ that night were taken by couples looking rather romantic. This made us feel
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a bit uncomfortable, us being two blokes of course, and since we were already told that the table had been booked for a little later we decided to try the downstairs dining area and vacated the KUVÉ table. We arrived downstairs to find that there wasn’t a seat left in the house. “Oh man,” I said to Marcus, “we just left the best seats in the house to come down here for nothing.” By the time Jocelyn came back with the bad news that all the tables were taken we had decided to head back upstairs, and with Jocelyn’s help once more found the corner table still vacant but this time we could have it till 10pm – the time the band was scheduled to start. “OK, we’ll take it.” The same romantic couples appeared to be still whispering sweet nothings into each other’s ears when we sat down but I thought I’d try something to get some atmosphere back into that new KUVÉ scene. After a short discussion with Jocelyn we managed to turn the lights up to the same brightness as previous trips and the outlook changed instantaneously from subdued to a party atmosphere. And while we were watching all the faces light up around us, it was now time to experience the menu.
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It’s a kind of light snack menu at KUVÉ, but with all the best of the best ingredients. The prices too are for the crème de la crème, but the quality is assured. We started off with oysters – a must at any dining experience at KuDeTa, since they have the best, plumpest and tastiest oysters in town by a country mile (40k each). Two each of the three different oysters on offer with three separate sauces to match was the perfect way to start proceedings while tasting our first wine, a French red from long stemmed wine glasses. Yes, even the glasses are finer upstairs at KUVÉ. Next course was a choice of salmon and kingfish sashimi that came with ginger, wasabi and soya dressing on baby shiso (100 & 110k). What a novel way of serving a Japanese classic and the healthiness of the dish can not be denied. For the finale we ordered a wagyu carpaccio, ravigote sauce, parmesan and kipfler potato crisps (150k). 10pm came and went and the people who had booked the table were a no-show. We didn’t mind as the Tijuana Cartel started up below. What a great band and the crowd that had built to about a thousand below were now dancing like mad all over the lawn. It was a balmy Bali night and a night that only Bali and in particular Ku De Ta can produce. That’s the crazy thing about this place that we call home; you just don’t know what’s going to happen next. FRV
Previous pages. Balmy nights at Ku De Ta’s KUVÉ restaurant. The delectable French and Californian oysters served with nahm jim, ginger and shallot, and forum cabernet vinegar and eschallots. Above: As the sun sets KUVÉ comes to life.
KUVÉ Ku De Ta Jalan Kayu Aya 9 Seminyak, Bali T: +62 361 736969 www.kudeta.net
ultimo
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OVERNIGHT
The Luxurious Sky Hotel Text by Erza S.T.
In
the present time, we can enjoy a luxurious way of living pretty much anywhere we want, even in the sky. The quality and service given by some airlines in their first or business class sections is really top notch with great attention to detail that can only be compared with the great standard of five-star hotels themselves. My journey into the sky this time took me to one of the best five-star residences in the sky, and the name is Etihad Airways. For the last decade, Middle Eastern based airlines have garnared a fine reputation for their opulent style on board, and Etihad Airways (based out of Abu Dhabi) is one of them. However, this airline has a lot more to offer compared to the rest, especially when it comes to luxury and service. Checking into the Etihad “lobby” on the ground before take off is fast and super efficient, followed by a nice drink in their superb lounge. Once on board, the feel of luxury greets you immediately, especially when you arrived at your “room” in Pearl Business Class for the next eight hours. Spacious and comfortable, this room has everything you could need to enjoy your time in the sky. Luxurious flat bed seats that have a 49-inch seat pitch with generous reclining that also have a massage machine to ease your 46 l FRV Travel
back and shoulders, a 15 inch TV screen and fantastic fine dining experiences are just some of the highlights of what Etihad Airways Pearl Business Class has to offer. Free-flow champagne, wine or your favorite spirits are on offer from your arrival till you leave. I was personally very impressed with their effort in providing us with an inspiring dining experience that allowed us to choose our own time to dine. During the flight they first served me with warm bread, fresh from the oven with three kinds of condiments to choose from aside from regular butter. That was followed with the appetizer of smoked salmon with lemon served with mini pita bread. Main course was a beef goulash served with couscous and salad in a very generous size. They make it even better by pairing it with some of the best wines from their wine list. It is great to check out their boutique wine collection which has a vast selection including some that come from smaller vineyards – the type of wines that will be loved by all connoisseurs. And like all good things, every dining experience can only be ended by an inspiring desert, which for me can only mean one thing, a nice big scoop of Haagen-Dazs chocolate ice cream. Not so long after I finished my dinner, the lighting mood changed into a more soothing
atmosphere that inspired me to actually write this article while taking benefit of their power sockets to recharge my laptop and iPod at the same time. Honestly, the eighthour flight passed by in no time with all the pampering given on board. Preparing to land in Abu Dhabi, I went to wash up using their onboard products from designer Aigner Valise including my favorite: the refresher mist. I finally had to bid my fond farewell to the “room” that I had occupied for the last eight hours and continue my journey with a rather unenthusiastic feeling knowing that I had to face reality dealing with immigration and the pain staking process of getting a taxi. But, guess what? I didn’t have to suffer any of that. As an Etihad Pearl Business Class passenger, you really get VIP priority through immigration and they even provide you with a deluxe limousine to take you to your hotel destination. Now, this is what I call real fivestar treatment on board and on the ground. Flying has never been this good! FRV
Pearl Business Class Etihad Airways www.etihadairways.com
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OVERNIGHT
Text by Cracker
The Mercure Pontianak
The varying tropical climates across Indonesia are enough to cause any traveler to hope for some creature comforts when pulling up somewhere for the night. So when arriving in a city that lies directly on the equator, staying in a hotel that takes care of all your needs within a cool, clean and relaxed environment is certainly a draw card.
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hether exploring the various cities across Indonesia or passing through West Kalimantan in Borneo with a briefcase in hand, the city of Pontianak has recently acquired its first international hotel, the Mercure, to welcome your stay. With its modern design, Mercure Pontianak lies just 15 minutes from the international airport and has a total of 188 spacious Superior and Deluxe rooms, along with three Suites. All standard facilities are catered for including large flat screen televisions, high speed internet connection and 24-hour room service. For entertaining guests or taking time out, the Ebony Lobby Lounge provides just the place for a sitting by the bar or relaxing back into a large lounge chair with a drink in hand. The hotel staff has been well chosen with more personality than is common within large hotel chains and they seem to have a knack for remembering more about your personal tastes than you do. Always a bonus when you wish to be spoilt after a long day. For dining, the Ebony Restaurant’s large open kitchen serves a well rounded mix of Western, Asian and authentic Indonesian cuisine. Originally from Jakarta, Executive Chef Rudy Priawan has an extensive history in the hotel industry and has recently moved from the Bali Hyatt where he was Executive Sous Chef, bringing with him a list of personal specialties
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such as the Oxtail Soup, Kerapu Goreng Terbang and Snapper á la Jimbaran. The most impressive centre of gravity to pull you in at the Mercure would indeed be the pool. Easily viewed from both the restaurant and an upstairs fitness center, 140sqm of water surrounded by 300sqm of decking to soak up the sun or let the kids run loose (there is also a kids pool to cool them down), makes this the place to be when you’re not out looking at what Pontianak has to offer. If business is on the agenda a sophisticated ball room is available with a capacity of 600 pax along with smaller meeting rooms holding complete audio-visual equipment facilities. Other less work-focused amenities include the hotel spa. Designed combining chic simplicity and an ethnic fusion, light and dark brown tones create a relaxing nuance for rekindling the body’s energy. Mercure Pontianak also consists of its own Business Centre which includes a number of professional services including a Garuda office for ticket purchasing or confirmations, making things easy for those with not much time on their hands. For those that do, local sites to check out include the equator monument, the Kraton, Kapuas River and the Museum of West Kalimantan. The hotel is also just a short stroll from the biggest shopping mall in town. FRV
The Mercure Jln. Jendral Ahmad Yani No.91 Pontianak, West Kalimantan, Indonesia Tel :+ 62 561 577 888 www.mercurepontianak.com
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JAKARTA’s 8
Best Kept
Secret: 8
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Text by Erza S.T. Photos by Ramadhan
M
any globetrotters don’t really consider Jakarta as one of their points of interest when they come to Indonesia, and I can’t say I blame them.
Facing page: At this fantastic bar created by Mumm’s you can ask for anything from Champagne to their extensive Mojito list. At 8 Lounge you can get an open-air cinema on a big screen like this once a month. Above: Mini-burgers here are to die for and definitely a must try. Others on their Night Bites menu like this assorted sushi is also worth the wait.
FRV Travel takes you into one of the secrets of luxurious jakarta for mini burgers and movie shows
Though Jakarta claims to be one of the great metropolitan cities in the world, it is still poorly promoted. Thus many foreign visitors tend to just pass Jakarta by and only stay when they have business to do. It is quite unfortunate actually, as they have no idea what kind of exciting things in Jakarta they have missed. Though the city façade can be unappealing, there are many interesting hidden spots in Jakarta that are only revealed to those who actually look for them. One of Jakarta’s best kept secrets is 8 at Ritz-Carlton Pacific Place. 8 here is in reference to the 8th floor of the hotel where one of the best rooftop gardens in Jakarta lies under the stars. It is surrounded by the silhouette of the city’s skyscrapers with a great outdoor lounge designed by Mumm’s, showcasing stylish white rattan sofas with sensual lighting. It is an elegant alfresco venue that has soothing ambiance to unwind and perfect to drink a martini or two. Open for almost one year now, 8 still remains hidden and only known to a few as it is open only on Fridays and Saturdays. To get to 8, one should pass the spa before finally arriving at an outdoor area where your eyes will immediately greeted by the Eden-like garden setting. Right in the middle of the garden, you can find the central bar that is glowing in white and known to serve premium champagnes, cocktails and whiskies complete with an extensive wine list to choose from. Indeed, the vast cocktail selection on the menu could be mystifying, however, it would be a great loss if you didn’t try their creations of mojitos reinvented. They have almost 20 kinds of mojitos to choose from with some favorites such as Classic Cuban Mojito and Cojito.
Though the impression of this decadent roof top garden looks great for drinks, you will be surprised to find out that they also have some outstanding dishes to choose from their “Night Bites” menu. On our last visit, we were very impressed with four mini-cheeseburgers in cajun spices, as well as their wild French oysters that are fresh and luscious. Comprising East meets West, the Night Bites menu at 8 has a little bit of everything from Japanese, such as salmon maki duo, to Indonesian chicken or beef satay in peanut sauce, pickles and prawn crackers, to even vegetarian rice paper rolls with Thai chili sauce. But if you are going for total indulgence, then ignore all the above and just go directly to the top of the menu for their caviar that comes from French sturia served with traditional condiments, blinis and toast. Oh, have we mentioned that this place will also be perfect to impress your first date? Every last Friday of the month, 8 organizes a classic movie screening that you can enjoy while sipping their sexy cocktails. The hotel even serves you with complimentary popcorn while watching the movie. Starting at 8PM, the next upcoming movie schedule is for October 29th with Goldfinger on the movie menu. Make sure to put that on your agenda and surprise your other half by taking them to this Garden of Eden in Jakarta. Yes! Such things do exist in our city and 8 is a fine example of it. FRV
8 Level 8, The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53 Jakarta 12190 Tel: +62 21 2550 1888
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jakarta insights
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Aulia S
Aulia: I was born in Australia. My parents
are Indonesian and they emmigrated there before I was born so I was brought up and educated from Kindergarten to University in Australia. I have a Bachelor of Mangement Science degree from Canberra University and an Associate Diploma in Hotel Management from the Canberra Institute of Technology. I was working and studying in Canberra so when my father died in 1982 I was basically making money for myself and my education. In 1989 there was a recession in Australia and my uncle who was an Indonesian diplomat in Australia suggested that I go back to Indonesia. So that’s the way I landed my first hotel job in Indonesia.
FRV: Did you have any experience at that point in the industry? Aulia: I was alone in Jakarta as all my family were back in Australia, and still remain there today. I had a lot of F&B jobs there as a student which gave me experience. After five years in sales at the Sahid Jaya Hotel & Towers I took a job in a courier company called TNT Skypak for four or five years and was then asked to join United Parcel Service (UPS). I was in the courier business for about eight years and after a short stint in a security firm (Securicor) I decided to go back to the hotel industry. That was when I went to Aston for the first time. I was at the Aston Sudirman as Sales Manager then became the Assistant Director of Sales after a year and in 2004 I started as the Pre-opening Director of Sales and Marketing at the Aston Rasuna. From 2004 till now I have been the General Manager of this property. FRV: Why do you think people would want to come to Jakarta as a tourist, and in particular, to Aston Rasuna? Aulia: I guess it depends on what you are offering. This property is a serviced apartment set up. The booming market now in Indonesia is in the telecommunications and the oil and gas industries. These businesses
S. Aulia Masjhoerdin is the GM of Aston Rasuna in Kuningan, Jakarta. FRV sat down with Pak Auli to have a few words on the hotel, the tourism situation in Jakarta and to find out more about the man himself. David Trauts started by asking for his background in the hotel world. have a lot of long and short term projects so let me ask you, where would you want to stay long term, a hotel or an apartment? We have about 40 to 50% long term guests residing at the Aston Rasuna.
FRV: How competitive is staying in the Aston Rasuna versus a normal hotel? Aulia: It’s very competitive. We have a selection of one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, which can fit up to six people. So if we do the maths…we can fit anywhere from two up to six people in one room for a rate of IDR800k per night for example; compare that with a hotel room with only room for two people. FRV: How about tourists coming to Jakarta? Aulia: We have a number of travel agents, corporate short stays and leisure travelers. Having one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, obviously with all the amenities in the kitchen, etc. make it perfect for families and weekend visitors from Medan, Bandung, Surabaya or Bali. So I am proud to say that we have an average occupancy of 85% and I’m confident that we will remain a market leader amongst our prime competitors.
FRV: I’ve noticed you have new TV’s in the apartments. Aulia: One of the reasons why we do this is because we like to upgrade our facilities. We’ve been open since 2004 and we like to offer the best possible facilities and services and as you know, it’s a growing and competitive market and a lot of new establishments are going to open so we have to remain competitive and one of the ways to do that is to upgrade the facilities. It’s only wise to do that or we get left behind. FRV: So what do the tourists do when they come to Jakarta? Aulia: Ha, you are asking an Australian here. (laughing)… This whole area of
Rasuna - Kunginan is moving ahead very fast. The owner of the Aston Rasuna is the Bakrie group and they are developing this whole area as a one-stop shop. They have a mall, office building and residences which are beginning to open now and within the next year it should be a vibrant area. They are still currently building The Grove Residences beside the mall which will be a five-star, fully-serviced apartment and residence. The Aston Rasuna is also very centrally located with most main parts of Jakarta readily accessible.
FRV: Do you see a growth in tourism in Jakarta. Aulia: In term of hotels I think it is growing, not at a fast pace, but it is growing. One of the reasons I say that is that my figures at the hotel are always up. From 2004 to 2010 every year there is growth but you also have to understand that there are always more and more new hotels and apartments springing up so there is more supply, but even with that we still see growth. I’d say the tourism and business growth in Jakarta is growing steadily. FRV: I just wonder what people do when they come here besides walking around malls. Aulia: That’s true. Nowadays there is quite a good nightlife in Jakarta, there are also a lot attractions like Taman Mini, Dufan, Ancol, etc. FRV: There seems to be a lot of flights between neighbouring cities like KL, Singapore and Bangkok. Do you see many people travelling around the area? Aulia: Yes, there appear to be more of these leisure tourists coming here. But Jakarta is an interesting city for the corporate sector in the way it has everything here, the government, business opportunities and the people ( +/20 million of them) which makes it a vibrant and an attractive city to visit. FRV
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JAKARTA’S CASA
FRV Travel takes a trip down a Kemang memory lane and revisits casa on the second floor of aksara books.
Mi En SuCasa Text By Erza S.T. Photo by Ramadhan
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e are always happy to find a new restaurant, but over time we are happier to find out that these restaurants can actually survive. Some of the survivors eventually become Jakarta food institutions by proving themselves consistently good in doing what they do. Casa in Kemang, just above Aksara bookstore, sits in this category.
Previous page: Casa’s entrance will immediately take you into the retro realm. This page: The corner that everybody has loved since Casa’s early days.
Back in 2001, Kemang was really a happening area where most of the expatriates resided and the finest establishments were nestled. It was in the same year that a new building designed by famous architect Andra Matin become the site of the first Aksara bookstore. It was groundbreaking as this bookstore was the first one in town that adopted a modern approach, combining it with a nice café on the second floor, thus creating a totally new concept. Around four years ago, this minimalist, bright and glass-enclosed café on the second floor changed its name to Casa and transformed itself into a retro 50’s laid back kind of place with Herman Miller Earnes chairs, a teak DJ console and other
modernist Indonesian furniture from the era. This new vintage look was immediately popular among Kemang residents, especially the yuppy crowd who regaled it as their hangout spot. The management maintained the William Wongso (who originally invented W Sandwich + Grill before Casa) menu selection. However, last June 27, the management decided to give Casa a mild makeover and took over the control totally. Meaning that we finally have to bid fond farewell to old favorites such as flaky pizzas, roti prata, and baba au rhum as Casa is now serving their own menu selection. Out of curiosity, I decided to give Casa a visit after some years of absence. All the right elements that made me fall in love with Casa in the first place are still there. The beige Vespa motorbike at the entrance, the wooden floor, the chairs and that retro look are all still there. It is even better as they made such a great job on the facelift of the bar. All of these are a great comfort to me, especially after such long and heavy traffic to reach the Kemang area these days. FRV Travel l 55
Top: The newly renovated bar where you can get cupcakes with your cocktails. Middle: Some highlights on Casa’s menu from the simple yet delicious Mac & Cheese to their own style of Balinese nasi campur. Below: Another cozy corner with comfortable home-style sofas.
Casa Jl. Kemang Raya No. 8b Jakarta Tel: +62 21 719 9289 56 l FRV Travel
Casa’s menu selection now has a lot of similarity to Canteen in Pacific Place and Plaza Indonesia as the same group runs them too. Nevertheless, Casa has some specialties that Canteen doesn’t have, especially on their cocktail menu. I was quite thrilled that they managed to keep one old favorite from their heyday called “Mellow Mellow”. Made of crème de casis, cranberry juice, strawberry, lime and Irish whiskey, Mellow Mellow was one of the favorites back then. Right now though, new cocktails such as ‘Stardust’ (with star fruit juice) and their latest invention ‘Rule My World’ (coffee cocktail) are Casa’s signature cocktails. Food wise, Casa is serving comfort food with a selection of pastas, sandwiches and Asian fare such as kung pao chicken with rice, Japanese curry and oxtail soup. But for something different and fulfilling, you might want to try their own rendition of Balinese Nasi Campur that comes with yellow rice
and mixed with other dishes such as stir-fry soybean patties, shredded fried chicken, shredded dried beef, steamed marinated tofu, urap (blanched vegetables tossed with a mixture of spices and grated coconut), Bali’s chicken satay, pindang telur (egg boiled in a guava leaf ), and of course sambal mantah (Balinese condiment of hot chili peppers,
performance that surprisingly comes in at an affordable price range. Service is generally good though sometimes can be unfocused.
Overall, I still enjoyed my visit to Casa as much as my first experience going there years ago, though slightly sad for losing my favorite cocktail ‘Casa Royale’. With its charming vintage ambiance, I can actually imagine With its charming ambiEnce, I can actually Casa as a place where imagine Casa as a place where Belle & Sebastian Belle & Sebastian meets Iron & Wine meet Iron & Wine while Bebel Gilberto sits in the while Bebel Gilberto sits in the other corner other corner sofa. It’s that kind of place. sofa with her new beau Didie Cunha enjoying a nice moscato with Erlend and Eirik shallots, lemon grass, fish paste and lime). Or - the boys from Kings of Convenience. It is you can easily choose their ‘Mac & Cheese’ that kind of place where time no longer has for something simpler. importance. FRV In this WiFi-equipped cafe, the wine list is short but exquisite, clearly built for
Combining great cocktails, with a fine menu and ambience makes Casa one of the places Jakarta loves.
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JAKARTA Chef
Au revoir, Classic French!
Lunch with Chef Renaud Le Rasle
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The new Chef de Cuisine daringly brings a fresh and gentle wind of change to Riva. Ve Handojo finds out why he injects Asian flavours into French cuisine. Photos By Ramadan
Previous page: Steamed French asparagus with crab meat, yuzu, espelette Hollandaise, and chives. A warm and appetizing dish that still resembles classic French. This page: The convincing look of Chef Renaud Le Rasle - the new Chef de Cuisine of Riva at The Park Lane Jakarta.
W
ho wouldn’t trust a chubby, smiley, and friendly French chef with around two decades of experience working in Paris, New York, and Ubud? That definition itself won my heart long before I met Chef Renaud Le Rasle. After spending many years in Bali, Chef Renaud now is the new Chef de Cuisine for Riva, the classic institution in The Park Lane Jakarta. “Every chef travels around, and the flavours they taste and experience in other parts of the world will bring influence in the dish they create. I like what I taste in Asia. Thailand and Bali are rich with beautiful flavours and tastes – the lemongrass, the cauliflower, the kemangi
leaves, and many more,” he began his story enthusiastically.
“Selamat Makan!” A sign that he understands so well who are his guests.
“There’s no more classic French cuisine for me now. It’s gone already. People don’t like too much cream or cheese anymore. All over the world, French cuisine is injected with Asian spices and herbs. This is what I see is happening now.”
“I would compare Jakartan diners with the ones in New York. They both have a high stress level, and busy people that come with a high demand. Yet, the New Yorkers are more open-minded for new things on their plates. In Bali, people surely are more relaxed, and the atmosphere is encouraging them to always try new things. Jakarta will take time to accept, enjoy, and appreciate new things,” he admits.
His viewpoint is tangible in his lemongrass ‘Du Puy’ lentil soup generously filled with Peking duck confit, curry beurre meuniére, and chervil. Just slightly warmer than room temperature, the soup is a pond of rich and refreshing delight. Through this dish, Chef Renaud is greeting us with a perfectly pronounced
Sensible enough, the arrival of Chef Renaud will not revolutionise Riva’s menu right away. The establishment, FRV Travel l 59
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Left top: Grilled Takusen Wagyu beef sirloin with tomato basil confit, asparagus, Shimenji mushroom, potato mousseline, and Bordelaise sauce. Left bottom: Mediterranean sea bass with garlic and olive oil, with eggplant and tomato caviar, sauteed artichoke “Poivrade” parmesan, and Provancale sauce. Above: Chef Renaud is very hands-on and takes every detail in his kitchen very personally and delicately. A cup of berry salad with Nutella mousse as the perfect mouth-cleanser.
which has received an “Award of Excellence 2010” from the New York-based magazine Wine Spectator, will still preserve the classic favorites. I’m pretty sure, though, that Chef Renaud’s steamed French green asparagus that comes with soft and gentle crab meat, yuzu, espelette Hollandaise and Chives will grow on loyal diners. This is truly a sample of a well-balanced Asianinfluenced French dish. My lunch takes me away to the Mediterannean as I took the first, rather crunchy, bite of the pan-seared with garlic and olive oil sea bass. The crush of eggplant-tomato caviar adds more indigenous tang. With artichoke “Poivadre” parmesan and Provancale sauce, the dish is nothing less than a marine fiesta. Chef Renaud, who befriended the local farmers when he was in Ubud, did his best to use the local ingredients as much as possible, as long as the high quality he aims for is met. The Wagyu beef sirloin cut – of the Marbling Grade 9 – actually comes from Takusen cow. These are Japanese cows that are exported to Sumatra and raised there. Chef Renaud himself travels to Sumatra regularly to meet his supplier. “I even make myself the pepper that’s on your plate now. I get the seeds from Bali, and grind them myself,” he cheerfully told me as I was about to enjoy that last dish. The beef was grilled, garnished with Shimenji mushroom, with asparagus and tomato basil confit, and comes with “Potato Mousseline” and Bordelaise sauce on the side. The lunch with Chef Renaud is wrapped in a sour mouthcleanser – a cute cup of berry salad covered with Nutella mousse. The dessert is as refreshing as his love towards his take on Indonesia. “My favorite food here? My wife’s homecooking. She’s Indonesian, and she cooks very well.” FRV FRV Travel l 61
mixologist
Sagatiba
cocktails
M
uhammad Asri, also known as “Pak RT” is beyond a bartender, with his passion and experience of more than 15 years, he is a drink-scientist. Being the chief mixologist at Immigrant, famed restaurant bar in Plaza Indonesia, Jakarta, he is famous for his own creations of infused liquors and has a vast knowledge of exotic herbs. He’s been experimenting on cocktails for many years. His motto is “Create. Don’t mix.” He didn’t have a formal hotel or F&B related education but life has taught him how to create and mix drinks from all bartenders he has worked with together over the years in life and work.
What’s the craziest thing that ever happened while mixing a drink? I created the ultimate of all cocktails, the strongest ever, but sometimes I have somehow and somewhat regretted that. The drink is called “Eleven Element” and is still one of the best selling cocktails at Immigrant. The craziest thing about this cocktail is most of the time customers buy it in pairs and ask me to accompany them to drink it and teach them how to ‘enjoy’ this drink, and after every session I have to take a long break.
What makes the difference using Sagatiba in these cocktails? Sagatiba has the smoothest flavour of all cachacas, and the tropical character of the drink made by Sagatiba really comes out just with a dash of it. Only Sagatiba can make the best Caipirinha and Immigrant will never compromise in giving the best to its customers. FRV
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Rujak Samba Ingredients
30ml Sagatiba Velha 30ml Natural honey 2g Chili flake 30ml Fresh lime juice 100g Fresh young mango Methode Mix all ingredients with iced and serve in an old fahioned glass, decorated with pink salt with chili and sliced mango
Watermelon On Fire Ingredients
100g Grilled watermelon 30ml Sagatiba Velha 5 sprigs Italian basil 2 cubes Laughing Cow Cheese 15ml Natural honey
Methode
Decoration
Blend all ingredients without ice, serve in tall glass decorated with round watermelon on the top of glass
Glass
Decoration
Young coconut Double shooter
Round grilled watermelon
Glass
Tall glass
Rayuan Pulau Kelapa Ingredients
30ml Sagatiba Pura 30g Lychee Sorbet 60ml Coconut water 15ml Fresh lime juice 50g Young coconut 4 Leaves chopped kaffir lime Methode Mix all ingredients in mixing glass, serve in coconut and decorate with umbrella, kaffir lime and red cherry
Decoration
Kaffir lime, parasol and red cherry
Glass
Coconut
Confused Mojito Ingredients
30ml Sagatiba Pura 8 Spring kaffir lime leaf 45ml Simple syrup 45ml Fresh squezed lime juice
Methode
Smash kaffir lime leaf then pour all ingredients into mixing glass and shake all ingredients with ice
Decoration
Kaffir lime leaf and chopped lime
Glass
Tall glass FRV Travel l 63
JAKARTA THE GRILL
The Foodie Affairs at
The Grill
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Text by Erza S.T. Photos by Ramadhan
A
food lover like me lives with one important ritual and that ritual is to find new eating-places in town. My ritual so far has brought me some great finds, from casual eateries on the street up to the finest dining in town that serves food in languages that can’t even be pronounced. Every week I dare myself to try new places or existing venues that I haven’t yet visited. On a recent exploration around the Kuningan area, I found newly-built buildings, and of course, new restaurants as well. One of them, comfortably hidden on the mezzanine floor of Lumina Tower is Jakarta’s latest called The Grill.
Small yet intimate, The Grill is the latest dining in town and has a modern minimalist look and warm ambience.
This new kid on the block is within quite a hidden location inside a food hall called The Nest. I was a bit unsure at first about The Grill, as the idea of finding a fine dining venue behind a so-called food hall was quite hilarious to me.
Nevertheless, since I was already there, I thought I might as well give the place a chance. The Grill like many new restaurants these days is dressed in modern minimalist style with white bricks, open kitchen and strong wooden accents on furniture and floor. Slightly uninspired by it, I decided to check out their menu. Modest yet solid, the menu offers dishes ranging from appetizers (both entrée and salad), a chef ’s special to their specialty, the grill menu, and to finish off, dessert. I settled down by ordering one dish from each category to get the overall taste. Crepes with chicken, mushroom and avocado salsa was how I began to build my appetizer moment followed by roast pumpkin salad with feta cheese, baby spinach, and roast capsicum in balsamic dressing. Pleased with those appetizers, I was actually thrilled by my next dishes, which FRV Travel l 65
Though the menu has a petite selection, it showcases a great take on the Mod Oz (Modern Australian) food concept.
were BBQ beef ribs from the Chef ’s Special section and 250 gram of Margaret River Wagyu beef grade 4 – 5 rib eye marble. I couldn’t be happier with the result. The Grill has an inspiring taste that beats their odd location and setting.
My BBQ beef ribs with Smokey BBQ sauce were luscious and addictive. I believe after being braised for 18 hours, these BBQ ribs are guaranteed to give addiction a new meaning. Forget the cutlery and just use your fingers to enjoy it. Finger licking has never been this good before! Equally remarkable,
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my Wagyu beef rib eye also arrived with the same excellence. Accompanied by three condiments such as pepperonata, caramelized onion and green peppercorns, this 250-gram beef was perfectly grilled: brown on the surface and a pinkish color inside. Though the menu has a petite selection, it showcases a great take on the Mod Oz (Modern Australian) food concept. The Grill manager, Arnold Poernomo who is also responsible for all these fantastic dishes understand the epitome of creating Mod Oz cuisines – a concept of combining Mediterranean cuisines and more recently, Middle Eastern as well as Asian cuisines mixed with high-quality Australian and local ingredients. With over a decade of experience in Australia, including prestigious food institutions like Bills in Darlinghurst, Sydney, Arnold has successfully created his own approached to Mod Oz concept. Lo and behold! A new fine dining contender has arrived to Jakarta. My advice to you is to focus on The Grill’s sinfully delicious menu and just walk through the misfit food hall. It is for the food’s sake only. FRV
Facing page: Chef Arnold Poernomo shows great skill in the kitchen and brings Jakarta a new taste on the culinary landscape.
This page: BBQ Ribs left the tongue craving it for days afterwards. Roast pumpkin salad with feta cheese is a great way to give your appetite a lift.
Orange panna cotta with raspberry and white wine syrup. Quite spectacular.
The Grill At The Nest FoodHall & Grill Lumina Tower The Kuningan Place Jl. Kuningan Utama Lot 15 South Jakarta Tel: +62 21 2555 4614
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PHUKETonthe rise
Mercury in Retrograde
Phuket on the Rise
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My mind scans back to me checking my passport sachet for some reason in the back of the taxi. Ooops, we’re lost, the passports are still in the cab and on their way back to Surin.
By David Trauts
H
aving to wake up at dawn to get the taxi to the airport was always going to be tough. It’s a half-hour drive from Villa Rak Tawan, and through winding back streets we bumped along till we made it to Phuket International Airport. Shuffling bags, tending money, no change – the typical manifestations rushing a taxi exit at an airport. We arrive to the Air Asia check-in desk and the Jakarta flight is closed. Huh? “The gate is closed 45 minutes before takeoff, sir,” says the lady. I look at the ticket. I miss-read the flight details and we were half an hour late. She calls the captain of the plane direct and they can hold the takeoff till we get there. “Can you give me your passport, sir?” I look in the bag and no passport!? My mind scans back to me checking my passport sachet for some reason in the back of the taxi. Ooops, we’re lost, the passports are still in the cab and on their way back to Surin. Mercury in Retrograde had just got me again*. Five days before this we arrived at the same airport from Jakarta. It was a beautiful, blue-skied day and a young man dressed in white was holding a sign with “Paresa” waiting for us at the exit. This was the beginning of our sojourn in what is now called the New Riviera of Phuket – a stretch of coast from Surin in the north to the northern border of Patong in the south.
* What is Mercury in Retrograde? This happens three to four times per year, when the planet Mercury slows down, and appears to stop (station) and move backward (retrograde). It’s an optical illusion, since there is forward movement, like speeding by a slow-moving train - as it recedes, it appears to go backward.
What are the Mercury Retrograde dates for 2010? The dates are December 26th, 2009 to January 15th, 2010 in the earth sign Capricorn. April 17th to May 11th in the earth sign Taurus. August 20th to September 12th in the earth sign Virgo. December 10th through 29th, in the earth sign Capricorn and fire sign Sagittarius.
What happens during Mercury Retrograde? Since Mercury rules communication, it’s said that everything goes haywire in that area - emails get deleted or bounced back, mail is returned, calls go out into the ether, etc. Some people find that their computers go on the fritz or phone lines go down. I’ve never seen the hard data on this, so make your own observations. It does seem though that miscommunications abound and travel plans go amiss during the retrograde period.
A Time-Out: Mercury retrograde gives us time to catch up with ourselves, and to look back. Something from the past might return in a different form. This can mean people, ideas or buried insights that need to surface for you to move forward. Often it’s felt as a contemplative time, depending on the sign, a chance to go over old ground again, to claim what you missed the first time around. Or so they say....
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Paresa The Toyota Fortuna, sent by the resort to pick us up from the airport whisked us, my recently reunited girlfriend and me, along the winding coastal road to the so-called heavenly resort, literally perched on the cliff-face of Millionaires Road just south of Kamala, Phuket. Paresa is breathtaking in its concept and its construction. The name of the resort means seventh heaven in Sanskrit and standing at the top of the cliff and gazing over the bay below, a spot and view closer to heaven would be hard to imagine. We stumbled our way through the resort lobby and down the stairs with its minimalist and serene styling to the heavy, wooden doors of the main entrance. The gong on the left side before the entrance stands strong and proud waiting to offer its ritual welcome. We were prompted by our private Angel, a term they use at Paresa for one’s private butler and service, to bang the gong, and once I did she opened the doors to blasting rays of sunshine outside rebounding from the gold layered mosaic tiles on the floor. It’s hard to describe this entrance in words but it does take you by surprise. When one’s eyes adjust again a breathtaking vision of the Andaman Sea below awaits. It’s a nice idea from the management to wake up tired souls with a shock after a long trip from their distant homes and guarantees to start a beautiful holiday with a literal jolt at this secluded and luxurious
she opened the doors to blasting rays of sunshine outside rebounding from the gold layered mosaic tiles on the floor.
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Previous page: Rays from the sun almost blind you coming through entrance.
This page: A bird’s eye view of Paresa resort with the dramatic bay below.
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PHUKETonthe rise
retreat - as long as you don’t remain permanently blind, of course. The restaurant level is accessed by descending an elevator to the lower floor. From there we were put on the back of a waiting golf cart and transported along a long, narrow, curving and suspended concrete track to our villa. The track that winds up, across and down through the resort connecting all villas to the restaurants and main swimming pool and spa
below is like a luxury rollercoaster ride and this adds a touch of fun to the whole Paresa experience. Enormous Banyan trees rise from the cliff floor and face tower all around the villas and track adding to the natural spectacle. These trees look to be hundreds of years old, offer abundant shade and have been incorporated right into the design, even going through the roofs of some buildings.
Left: Both restaurants are visible in this shot. Above: The minimalist lobby and reception, and a flower petalled bath tub awaits in Aqua villa.
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Right: The tastfully designed and appointed Aqua villa bedroom and outdoor patio.
Relaxing is the name of the game and the crashing waves below and empty blue horizon can take care of you all day long.
More than a resort, Paresa is also a retreat. It’s a place to relax and take time out from a hectic world. If you need a shot of action, though, you can get a lift into Kumala or Surin, or go to the not too far Patong Beach for a look around, a night out or shopping trip, but the essence of this resort is to stay put, relax and drift away into the magnificent views. My partner and I were in need of some down time after a long separation and it was the perfect place to redefine certain directions. Relaxing is the name of the game and the crashing waves below and empty blue horizon in front of the villa can take care of you all day long. The Aqua villa where we stayed was spacious and very wellappointed with all the mod-cons, timber floors and door joinery, aluminum sliding doors and windows facing the sea and a cozy setting and plunge pool outside. The ipod dock and system supplied classic chilled fare (I wanted to download the lot but couldn’t figure out how to do it – Mercury once again at play). The bathroom is fantastically finished with a plunging bathtub overlooking beautiful vistas of the bay below and the plunge pool directly in front - floating around that plunge pool became an obsession over the next days and nights. The interiors are understated and elegant, finished immaculately and above
all, the villa is extremely comfortable. Facing the open sea, the construction had to be rock solid and it is without being at all boxy or bunker like.
Dining
Paresa says they have two restaurants, but in fact they have one indoor/outdoor restaurant with a choice of two different menus and cuisines. Lo and behold, we found an old face in the kitchen, James Stanton previously of Amankila Resort Bali and recently transplanted to Paresa. He has loads of experience from all over the world – Australia, Europe and Asia, and has been the Executive Chef at Pareasa for the past four months. They have an Italian Sous Chef by the name of Nicolino Lalla in charge of the Italian restaurant, DIAVOLO, and he is doing a great job. We had the Italian on our second night and the dishes we tried from the Carpaccio and Insalata Caprese to the Crab filled squid ink Tortellini were all authentic and freshly made in the classic Italian way. Being in Thailand though any visitor can’t go past the Thai cuisine of TALUNG THAI, this officially is served on the balcony area of the restaurant. The owner of Paresa has had a hand in the menu at this Thai restaurant and has added many varying dishes from all over the regions of Thailand. The menu is quite an eclectic mix, some winners, some not, but you can’t miss the make-your-own Betel Nut wraps and the Green Curry. The dining at Paresa is exceptional with service and setting to match. FRV Travel l 73
PHUKETonthe rise
Villa Rak Tawan
A
fter two nights we moved further north to Surin and Villa Rak Tawan. Phuket has a beautiful coastline with rolling hills down to white beaches and bays, coves and resorts at every turn – and in contrast to Bali, Phuket also has perfect Western-style roads and traffic that flows. Rak Tawan is the last villa at the top of an ascending, winding road overlooking the headland of Surin and two sweeping bays to the north and south. The million-dollar view is only matched by the luxurious and spacious Villa Rak Tawan itself. The traditionally Thai-styled design offers plenty
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of space and features an expansive open living area fronting to an enormous swimming pool and vistas out to sea. Ideally suited for families or a bunch of friends on a joint holiday, for two people it is enormous, but we sure did enjoy the experience. We chose the right side bedroom with the same massive views and en-suite bathroom at the rear. A lot of timber is used throughout this gorgeous villa which gives it a warm, tranquil feel of an ocean-going boat. Each bedroom is more or less the same lay-out with two bedrooms, up and down, on either side of the pool with one extra
These pages: Exterior and interior shots of the breathtaking Villa Rak Tawan.
adjacent to the gym, which can also be used as a children’s playroom. The place is perfect for entertaining with a large living area with comfortable sofas, pool table and sound system with a central bar which is the villa’s focal point – it’s the ideal spot to hang-out and soak in the atmosphere. Upstairs is where the TV living area and kitchen can be found. A staff of four takes care of your every need, whether it’s finding a restaurant, booking a tour, cooking a meal or fetching a cab. As it turned out, it was lucky we did just that, booked a cab with the manager on the morning of our departure. After I discovered the missing passports at the check-in desk, I called Sang, the manager of Villa Rak Tawan, and told her what happened. She immediately called the taxi driver, since she had his number, and within 15 minutes he was back to the airport, passports in hand. After shuffling some flights we were on our way home and, on a personal front, to a new future. This particular Mercury in Retrograde had in many ways been a learning curve ball, but we had just hit a home run out of the park.
The million-dollar view is only matched by the luxurious and spacious Villa Rak Tawan itself.
Phuket is a beautiful island with much to offer. They, like many parts of Southeast Asia, have had their share of calamities over the past decade or so, but for an island a quarter the size of Bali they have excellent infrastructure, beautiful resorts, beaches and facilities. They may not have the same standard of high-end, freestanding restaurants and nightlife of Seminyak and other parts of Bali, but the luxury accommodation and the views that Phuket offers are to die for. FRV
Air Asia has many flights from around the region to Phuket every day. Direct flights are from Jakarta (with connections to Bali), Singapore, Hong Kong, KL, Bangkok and many more. Log onto www.airasia.com for more details.
www.paresaresorts.com www.villaraktawan.com
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Phuket SAILING
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Phuket Sailing By Nick Walton With its countless islands, sun-drenched beaches and predictable weather, the Thai island of Phuket continues to draw in yachtsmen and travellers from across the globe, including its fair share of inspired landlubbers.
T
he first rays of sunshine beam through the banks of palm trees on the horizon, casting their long, slender branches into dark, exotic profiles, as if eager to remind me just where I am. The golden light then spills onto the water, which glistens with the Midas touch of a new day, and extends out to my perch at the bow of a yacht at anchor, bathing me in warmth and setting off orchestras of bird calls which echo off the towering limestone cliffs surrounding our anchorage. This is Railay, on Thailand’s Krabi coast, one of the many little communities dotting an idyllic stretch of southern Siam that is only accessible by boat. Little more than a beach, a few boutique resorts and a handful of laughterfilled, bamboo-built beach bars, this is Thailand as it was before mass tourism, seas of beach umbrellas and armies of super persuasive touts. After cups of strong coffee, a few delicate Thai lady finger bananas and a sun-drenched fresh water shower on the yacht’s transom, we’re ready to start another day under sail. There are four in our crew; myself, the total novice of the pack, who willingly clambers around the rigging with renewed confidence each day; Jason, a Canadian who regularly competes in the region’s racing regattas; Yvan, a company man from Sunsail who is completing his Day Skipper certification; and Skipper Chris Green, who has sailed for as long as he can remember.
Sunsail yacht off Phi Phi Leh island.
It is safe, calm anchorages like Railay, combined with the region’s hundreds of limestone islands - some hiding internal lagoons or huongs – as well as remote cliff-side bars and restaurants, and favorable, predictable weather
patterns, that have made Phuket’s southeastern sailing grounds so popular with both diehard yachties and novices like myself looking to explore this beautiful setting by sail. Popular with charter guests for many years, increased infrastructure in Phuket, including both the expansive Royal Phuket Marina and Ao Po Grand Marina, where Sunsail has their base (there is another on Koh Samui), means more yacht owners are berthing their vessels in Southern Thailand instead of in over-crowded marinas in Singapore and Hong Kong. But it’s not just the boats that are drawing in the sailing set; southern Thailand has some of the most dramatic scenery in Asia, with Phuket’s typical sailing grounds reaching northeast to the top of Phang Nga Bay, and southeast to Krabi where the likes of Railay and Ko Lanta offer deserted, postcard-perfect lagoons and great sailing conditions. There are literally hundreds of islands reaching from the Andaman Sea into the straits of Malacca, many of which have small restaurants and pier-side bars popular with yachties. “The sailing area of Phuket is exceptionally spacious and offer an unrivaled choice of anchoring,” says Yvan, who is Yacht Sales Manager for Asia. “Phi-Phi island and Phang Nga Bay have inspired many movies and are among the must-sees of Southeast Asia.” “Sunsail’s flexible packages range from a single day to a couple of weeks of sailing, and offer countless discovery possibilities. Depart from Phuket, discover the west coast of Thailand, visit Krabi, Koh Lanta, and the myriad islands on the way to our sister-base in Langkawi. FRV Travel l 77
Clockwork from top: Sunsail yachts at Ao Po Grand Marina. Limestone cliffs at Phi Phi Leh. Cruising the limestone islands of southern Thailand.
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Jason mans a mooring buoy. A tourist boat in the huong at the southern face of Phi Phi Leh.
We spend days in the sun, learning about sailing angles and nautical terms but at the same time rejoicing in the day’s tropical warmth.