Nomadic Noles – Issue 2

Nomadic Noles

Summer 2015

A magazine written and produced by students in Florida State University’s Study Abroad Valencia Program

Valencia’s café culture spices up city’s vibrancy PAGE 14

First Year Abroad shapes students’ experiences

International Programs plans anniversary parties

PAGE 4

PAGE 8

From the U.S. to Spain: profs make life changes

PAGE 12

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Table of contents Summer 2015

Letter from the program director

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t Florida State University’s Valencia Study Center, we are proud to provide an academic and cultural program adapted to the needs of students who, in many cases, have never traveled outside the USA. We have grown in our program in Valencia from having 265 students during the 2001-2002 academic year, to 385 students during the 20122013 year, to 679 students during this academic year. It is our hope that the knowledge and life-skills that they acquire in Valencia will stay with them in the future, both in their professional and personal paths. It is especially fulfilling for us to see how they learn about and adapt to their new environment and gain a different perspective on the European lifestyle and culture. We firmly believe that having the chance to carry out their everyday lives in Valencia also gives students a strong sense of independence and self-confidence.

A study abroad experience is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to become immersed in a new culture and to also learn about one’s self in the world. In most, if not all, classes in the FSU Valencia study center, the use of the city as a classroom is maximized, as students make culturally-related trips, observations, and personal reflections about Valencia, its places, and people.

As dean of studies and program director of FSU Valencia, it is an absolute pleasure and honor to have Susan Hellstrom and Jack Clifford in Valencia, again teaching the Editing, Writing and Media program, following the success of the first issue of Nomadic Noles in Summer 2014. Their students have once again had a unique opportunity to learn from experts in the field and to describe their unforgettable experiences in writing, while living in the heart of Valencia, Spain, and Europe.

We would like to thank the EWM students and instructors for their hard work and enthusiasm over the summer while working to produce the edition of Nomadic Noles that you are reading.

—Ignacio Messana

Faculty profiles

Unity through music 6

Larry Gerber, professor and experienced vocal performer, talks about his travels around the world and how they led him to Valencia.

By Katherine Sinner

Wily and wise 12

William Biringer and David Nordlund are more than professors equipped with lectures — they are role models who inspire students to be better people.

By Joseph Quintana

Dynamic duo 16

Faculty members Enrique Álvarez and Michael Leeser provide insight into their lives in Valencia and Tallahassee.

By Sarah Tatum

Study center in focus

Different beginnings 4

Freshmen spend their first year abroad at one of FSU´s four study centers around the world.

By Kathleen Keenan

Font cover photo by Rachel Townsend. Photo above by Claudia Gonzalez.

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Celebrate good times 8 Important anniversaries are coming up for the London, Florence, Valencia, and Panama study abroad programs.

By Milagros Aburto

Seeing the sights 18 Through planned excursions, International Programs allows students to explore all Spain has to offer.

By Lauren Thompson

Cooking with a dash of culture 10 Dr. César Ángeles´s Food and Society class allows students to immerse themselves in various cultures and experiment with international cuisine.

By Sasha Polissky

Flamenco in the spotlight 20 FSU students experience flamenco, a popular form of musical expression, throughout their time in Spain.

By Erica Pope

Biggest year ever for Valencia 28 A total of 679 students studied at FSU Valencia in the 2014-2015 academic year, compared to 288 in 2010-2011.

By Claudia Gonzalez

Merging messages 22 Though conscious of its problems, the people of Valencia have a romantic view of America.

By Corbin Ryan Changing tides 24 Recent city mayoral election makes waves in Valencia.

By Ashley Tressel

Beyond the study center

Making time to dine 14 Coming from a fast-paced lifestyle, FSU students adjust to the slower pace of meals in Spain.

By Rachel Townsend

From toast to tapas 26 A brief guide to food, beverages, and meal times in Valencia, Spain.

By Jennifer Knauf

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Home away from home Freshman students brave first year of college in cities around the world

By Kathleen Keenan

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perspective by living in another culture for an extended period of time and in many cases learning another language.”

Florida State has become one of the leading international study programs in the U.S., and one thing that makes FSU stand out is its FYA program. Through this program, students just Photo courtesy of Mathew Mackie graduating from high Mathew Mackie, a First Year Abroad student, with school can spend 12 a 2,000-year-old Roman aqueduct behind him, in months at one or more Segovia, Spain, during an FSU trip to Madrid. of FSU’s four main study centers, located in Florence, Italy; London, England; Valencia, ning of their college career,” says Lauren Spain; or Panama City, Republic of Panama. Schoenberger, the Florida State International Each location places students in the heart of Programs FYA program coordinator. “We the city, allowing them to live and embrace are proud of the growth and change the the local culture. students experience during their First Year Coming into this experience, students may Abroad experience.” or may not know their host country’s language. For example, what makes the Valencia A financial incentive and Panama City programs so attractive is With its main attraction featuring the exthat students can practice their Spanish. perience of living and studying in a new Many students take Spanish in country, FSU offers an added incentive for high school or are required to take the out-of-state students. Once out-of-state Emily Larson, a First Year Abroad student, a language as a part of their col- students complete the 12-month program, enjoys a weekend away in Dubrovnik, Croatia. lege course curriculum. For oth- they are eligible to receive in-state tuition ers, the appeal lies in the prospect rates for their remaining three years at the of learning a new language like Tallahassee campus. This program is a smart Spanish or Italian. These new or option for students who may not have othexisting skills help students be- erwise chosen an out-of-state school because come internationalized and im- of financial reasons. mersed in a new culture.

Matthew Mackie, an FYA from Bethesda, The program does more than Maryland, is one such student. just broaden the perspectives of “I was accepted, and the tuition was lookits participants. Those students, in ing kind of steep, and it looked like my parturn, bring their experiences and ents weren’t going to be able to afford it,” new ideas back to the Tallahassee he says. “An admissions counselor pulled campus when they return. me aside at an on-campus meeting, and ex“The FYA program helps in- plained to me my options with the FYA proternationalize FSU’s main campus gram. It was then when I knew FSU could be by providing students with the a possibility.” opportunity for a yearlong imOnce FYAs realize FSU is a possibility, the next step is to register for classes. Many Photo courtesy of Emily Larson mersive experience at the begin-

hat makes a home? Home is where you learn how to ride a bike. It’s the place where your family celebrates birthdays and other special occasions. It is a space where you feel safe and secure.

When most students leave home for the first time, it´s to attend a university in their home state. But imagine leaving home—full of these memories of birthdays and special moments—to study abroad in another country for the next 12 months. Your new living conditions might be an apartment overlooking a set of medieval towers in Spain or a house set in the suburbs of Central America.

Each year, more and more students are deciding to study abroad during their college careers, including some who decide to study abroad their freshman year. In the 2014-2015 academic year, 104 students participated in Florida State’s First Year Abroad (FYA) program.

“I feel that the First Year Abroad Program is an excellent way for a young person to start their FSU career,” says Jim Pitts, FSU’s International Programs Director. “They have the opportunity to study a broad range of courses in small classes. They also gain a global

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international program courses can be described as unconventional—but in a good way. The classes are usually small, holding about 10-25 students. Because of this, the environment of the classroom can be more personal compared to those at the main campus. Additionally, having small class sizes gives professors flexibility both inside and outside the classroom.

During the days students have class inside, there is more time for in-depth discussions about the course material. Occasionally, you will see classes out exploring the city, going to museums, and eating local cuisine, all relating back in some way to their course of study.

“In my archaeology class, my professor took us to his high school to see a bomb shelter from the Spanish Civil War,” Mackie says. “We sketched the layout of it and everything.”

These excursions not only make classes more enjoyable, but they help students connect what they learn in class with a more authentic experience of the host country.

Science and math classes too FYA students are offered a variety of classes, many of which satisfy first-year requirements for most majors. Other classes are meant to encourage students to explore their different interests and to take advantage of the host country. For example, students in Valencia can take classes such as Sketching the City or Food and Society, ones that would not normally be taught in Tallahassee.

However, with interest in studying abroad growing, the study centers are increasingly adding courses in math, science, and business. These expanded course offerings help to attract students who want to major in technical fields but who fear that studying abroad will make them fall behind in their coursework.

Many students who have come through the program have good things to say about the FYA lifestyle at the four study centers.

Since the students are required to stay in the same program for the fall and spring semesters, they become close.

“I lived in a house of nine girls in a suburb of Panama,” says Tina Spohnholtz, an FYA student from Seattle, Washington who was an FYA at the Panama campus. “I liked living in a house better than an apartment because it felt like its own little community, where we became really close friends with all our surrounding neighbors. It just felt like a home.”

Transitioning back to campus

An FYA student

offers his tips on easing back into Tallahassee

By Kathleen Keenan

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fter living and studying abroad for 12 months, the transition to life in Tallahassee can be difficult. The lifestyle you led in your host country for Photo courtesy of Connor Barniskis the past year will prob- Connor Barniskis visits Sicily, Italy, while he works ably be different when for FSU International Programs in Florence, Italy. you return to the U.S. However, this transition does not have to adapt to American culture. This can to be a tough one. be a great opportunity to make friends Check out these helpful tips from from other countries, and it will allow Connor Barniskis, a former First Year you to use your experience as an FYA to Abroad (FYA) student who studied in help these “International Noles.” After Florence and London his freshman year all, you too have gone through culture and now works as a program assistant in shock while being abroad, and now you Florence, Italy: can impart your wisdom in dealing with such stressful situations.

1) Once you get back to Tallahassee, 3) My last piece of advice is to not feel it is important to get involved. I under- jaded with your impending years at FSU. stand that going from being abroad to You will be tempted to compare your a campus with thousands of students study abroad experience to memories is overwhelming. Additionally, trying you will create in Tallahassee. You saw to branch out and meet new people so many amazing sights and have done might seem impossible. One of the best so much that many people in Tallahasthings about such an immense school see will never understand. Never fall into is the myriad involvement opportuni- dismissing everything Tallahassee has to ties. Greek life is massive at FSU, but if offer, because if you keep an open mind that isn’t your scene, there are intramural you will see that Tallahassee has A LOT sports, various clubs, research groups, to offer. Find places that remind you and organizations where you can make of studying abroad, and stay in touch the campus feel smaller. with friends you made abroad (even if it 2) Your interaction with international gets hard). Most importantly, meet new groups does not have to end just be- people, try new things, mess up, make cause you are in Tallahassee. Students mistakes, but always move forward. You from around the world attend FSU. Be- have the travel bug now, so there should cause of this, FSU provides outreach at be no doubt in your mind that you will the Center for Global Engagement for go abroad again. Until that time comes, international students who are learning enjoy FSU.

See FYAs, page 30 NOMADIC NOLES

Summer 2015

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rofessor Larry Gerber walks up to Lavin’s, one of the hangouts favored by staff and students of Florida State University’s International Program in Valencia, Spain. He’s about to take a seat at one of the café’s popular outside tables when a friend approaches him. It’s fellow faculty member David Nordlund.

They begin exchanging jokes with one another.

“My profile will be muy awesomer than yours, dude,” Gerber says to Nordlund (profiled on page 12). They bounce back and forth between words and phrases such as “awesomer” and “far out.” Gerber seems to know people wherever he goes.

It was during his first summer in Valencia when Gerber made many of his current close friendships. Gerber, Nordlund, and Program Director Ignacio Messana became nearly inseparable.

“I respect and admire him both as a friend and colleague,” Nordlund says.

Gerber first began working closely with Messana and his wife during fall of 2001.

“Larry has been a great friend and even mentor,” Messana says. “It is thanks to him, among other FSU friends, that I became one more true Seminole.”

Gerber, who grew up in Fowler, Kansas, a small town in the southwestern part of the state, was born into a family of teachers.

“We must be global citizens.

If I can display that through music—wonderful.”

— Larry Gerber “My mother was maybe the best teacher I’ve ever had,” Gerber says, recalling that she was his math teacher for four years in a high school of 120 students and that she also played piano for the chorus. “I always knew

A seasoned voice for FSU's program

By Katherine Sinner

Gerber sings while performing the role of Herr Schultz in FSU School of Theatre’s production of “Cabaret. “ 6

Summer 2015

FSU Professor Larry Gerber strives to make a difference in his students' lives NOMADIC NOLES

I wanted to be a teacher,” Gerber says. “My two older brothers were also teachers.”

When it came time to choose a college, Gerber chose Fort Hays Kansas State University. After taking a men’s chorus class and receiving encouragement to pursue a degree in music, he decided to give it a try.

It wasn’t long before Gerber found his opportunity to enter the music world. After a strenuous audition process, he was named an apprentice artist with the Santa Fe Opera’s summer program, one of the best opera programs in the country.

He liked it so much that he auditioned for a second summer as an undergraduate, and was again chosen. There, he worked with renowned teachers in an array of practices including voice, diction, movement, and staging.

“It was an inspiration in every way for me,” says Gerber. “And that’s where I decided: This is a great field.”

Gerber pursued his music passion wholeheartedly, not wasting a moment. He learned about a particular professor of music through one of his undergraduate professors and decided to study with him, packing up his life and moving to Colorado State University to pursue a master of music in vocal performance. His music career was off to a fast start.

Gerber’s time with the Santa Fe Opera company prepared him to audition for the Merola Opera Program in San Francisco, another of the nation’s best. He was selected for the program and remembers fondly his lead role in Mozart’s “The Magic Flute.”

“I was very happy and absorbed all of it.

I took full advantage of every opportunity,” says Gerber.

Gerber then took a job at a fine arts high school in Greenville, South Carolina. His music career was off to a running start, and now his teaching career was as well. Moreover, the high school gave him the time and freedom to accept opera and singing contracts.

“When it came to that time when I either had to say I’m going to teach or be a professional singer, I wanted to be both,” Gerber says. “I love teaching, and I love singing.”

Teaching at this school for four years not only prepared him to later on teach at the

Gerber, right, performs during a special Florida State Opera program that featured arias and ensembles from opera and music theater. The trio is performing their rendition of “Japanese Sandman.” collegiate level, but it also opened his eyes to other art forms.

“I would go to art shows, poetry readings, theater,” says Gerber.

After his time at the fine arts high school, Gerber accepted a teaching job at the University of Alabama. However, this was short-

lived because Gerber received an interview opportunity, just one year later, at Florida State University. He couldn´t resist. He landed a job in 1979 as an assistant professor.

“I immediately fell in love with the College of Music,” Gerber says.

An entry-level professor in the College of Music must participate in performances in order to move up in position, Gerber says, so he wasted no time.

“You’re only as good as your last performance,” he says.

In due time, he earned tenure at FSU and was promoted to full professor, eventually serving as coordinator of voice and opera in the College of Music.

Gerber has performed in shows across the world, from the United States to the Caribbean, Central America, Europe, and Pakistan. In the U.S. alone, he has sung with the Orlando Opera, Charlotte Opera, Birmingham Civic Opera, Atlanta Symphony, Charleston Opera, Dallas Bach Society, Jacksonville Symphony, and many more.

Gerber discovered opportunities in FSU’s International Programs (IP) through Director James Pitts when Pitts’s daughter was studying voice at FSU with Gerber. He urged Gerber to bring his talents to Valencia. Once again, Gerber made a bold career move.

Spending a summer teaching abroad was all it took for Gerber—since then he has returned several times to teach at FSU Valencia. He has also taught for IP in London, England and Munich, Germany.

See GERBER, page 32

Gerber in the the role of Eisenstein in Johann Strauss’ s“Die Fledermaus”

Larry Gerber's top 5 Valencia music venues

Palau de la Musica (above)

This is an excellent concert hall. The acoustics are wonderful, so there is no bad seat in the house. It is a medium sized venue, so it feels intimate.

Palau Reina Sofia

This is one of Europe's finest opera houses. It is a treat for eyes and ears. At this venue, one can hear the world's best in classical music.

El Patriarca

I go to this venue because it is one of the few places in the world that still performs the Catholic Mass in the Latin Rite. Beautiful singing of Gregorian Chant can be heard for 30 minutes prior to the Mass and during the Mass. The acoustics and the church are stunningly beautiful.

Cafe del Duende

The place for flamenco in Valencia. It is intimate and features the best flamenco artists in Valencia. I have never walked away from Cafe del Duende unhappy.

Jardines del Palau

This is a fantastic outdoor concert venue that is in the riverbed just behind the Palau de la Musica. I have heard wonderful concerts at this location that have included music styles that range from jazz to concert bands from Valencia to a Beatles tribute band. In general, all the concerts in this location are free.

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Let’s celebrate

Top: London students pose in front of the London Eye. Middle: Valencia students gather in Plaza de la Virgen.

f FSU IP urtesy o Photo co

FSU International Programs commemorates benchmark anniversaries

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By Milagros Aburto

Photo courtesy of FSU IP tesy Photo cour

Bottom: Florence students meet in St. Mark´s Square while on a Photo Monique Boileau tripbyto Venice.

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ack in 1957, the first students to study abroad through Florida State University wore helmets and combat boots.

That´s because the Panama Canal campus, which was FSU’s first international program, was started to help American soldiers stationed there further their educations. Now, nearly 60 years later, FSU is celebrating the same program, as well as the three other international campuses that followed: Florence, Italy; London, England; and Valencia, Spain.

In 1966, the first FSU students to study abroad in Florence probably wore boots too — so that they could help the city of Florence save rare books from the most disastrous flood the city had seen in 400 years. Thus, FSU Florence´s 50th anniversary is a particularly monumental one because it also marks the 50th anniversary of the flood.

“Our students were active in helping clean up the city and received special recognition from the mayor of Florence for their service,” says Sue Capitani, director of the Florence program. “We are organizing a meeting with the local government for those members of the first Florence program. It will be an exciting time.”

Florence’s 50th and London’s 45th anniversaries will be commemorated in 2016, and Valencia’s 20th and Panama’s 60th anniversaries will be commemorated in 2017.

All past alumni of these programs are invited to join in on the ceremonies, which will be hosted in their respective study abroad cities. Those attending will be treated to guided tours of the study centers as well as the cities. Guests will also be invited to cultural events and gala dinners in historical parts of the city. To give you See ANNIVERSARIES, page 31

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Love, Italian style

Q&A with Sue Capitani by Milagros Aburto

icture yourself abroad. You´ve fallen in love with the city, the culture, and the food. But what happens when you fall in love with a person?

Many students face this dilemma while they´re studying abroad. They make strong connections but feel lost once it´s time to return home. Sue Capitani, Director of the Florence program, shares the story of how she fell in love with her future husband when she was a 24-year-old graduate student and program assistant at FSU’s Florence program.

Nomadic Noles (NN): What made you choose Italy?

Sue Capitani (SC): While in graduate school, I studied early Christianity, the medieval church, and modern-day Catholicism.

Italy seemed like a logical choice, because I wanted to be in a culture quite different from the Anglo-American culture. I liked the idea of being centrally located in Europe, facilitating travel to other European countries.

NN: How did you meet your husband?

SC: One of my best friends and former roommates from the University of Florida (where I earned my bachelor’s degree) had studied on the FSU program as an undergraduate and had met her future (Italian) husband while there. She decided to return to Florence after graduation, and when I arrived in Florence a couple of years later, I called her immediately. She came by with her fiancé and one of his best friends—who ended up becoming my future husband! We met my very first day in Florence.

NN: Were you and your husband ever long distance? If so, how did you two stay in contact and how did that affect your relationship?

SC: Yes, we were long distance when I returned to the U.S. to finish my master´s. This was before internet, cell phones, WhatsApp, and any kind of social media. WE WROTE LETTERS! We also spoke by phone every once in a while. It was a big deal to talk on

the phone with someone overseas. However, it really didn’t affect our relationship. I knew that I needed to finish my degree and was willing to do what was necessary. Fabio was very patient, but it was an 11 month wait!

NN: When did you two get engaged?

SC: We decided to get married not long after I returned to Italy after having finished my M.A. NN: Do you have any kids?

SC: Yes, we have a 32-year-old son who lives in Florence.

NN: Moving to Italy permanently must have been a huge decision. Can you tell us how you made that decision and how you felt?

SC: It was a very difficult decision. After we were married, we lived in the U.S. for almost two years, and although we had jobs (we both worked for the Italian Trade Commission—an Italian government office promoting trade between the US and Italy), something was missing. We had made friends in Atlanta, but everyone’s life is pretty fluid in the U.S., and two of our closest couple friends were moving to another city/country. My husband’s family was very close and we had lots of friends back in Italy—all in Florence, so it was a joint decision to return to Italy. I also missed the culture of living in Italy—the beauty of the city, the countryside, being able to go from the mountains to the sea in a couple of hours—and the food! I enjoyed speaking the language and the witty sense of humor of the Florentines. I personally knew the person who sold me bread, the couple where I purchased meat, and the woman who sold me cheese—you had lots of personal contact with people in your neighborhood, besides your family and friends. The most difficult part was telling my family that we were moving back to Italy because we were also very close. However, when my mother came to visit the following year, she told me that she understood why we moved NOMADIC NOLES

Photo courtesy of International Programs

Sue Capitani, right, with students studying in Florence, Italy. back here. We would return to visit my family once a year for an extended visit.

NN: How and when did you start working at the FSU Florence study center?

SC: Late fall of 1989. I had worked in other jobs, but I wanted to be back in an academic environment, and also I missed being with other Americans. My life outside of my job was entirely Italian and I felt completely at home in that environment, but I also wanted some contact with my “roots.”

NN: Lastly, is there any advice you would like to give to future students who fall in love abroad?

SC: That is a tough question because everyone is different. First of all, finish your degree—no one can take that away from you, and if the relationship is valid, then you can wait a few months. Try to return with a plan for what you are going to do. It is great to have lots of free time, but you will need your independence and that comes with a job. Learn the language properly by going to an Italian language school for foreigners, if you aren’t at least conversational. If you are enrolled in a school for more than three months, you will be able to obtain a student visa which means you will be in the country legally—and can work part-time legally. Be patient and try to keep your sense of humor. Being a student there is much different from living there, and you are going to have to make many adjustments—not only to your lifestyle but also to your way of viewing things.

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A gastronomical adventure What’s on the menu for FSU Valencia’s Food and Society class?

Article and photos by Sasha Polissky

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n a hot, humid July day, 26 stu- its when trying all the dishes Valencia has to On top of cooking traditional meals, the dents from Florida State’s study offer, but Ángeles’ teaching offers a more students in the summer 2015 class went out abroad program gather at The hands-on approach. Students test their limits for an Indian dinner, followed by a wine tastWorkshop, a place in Valencia and step out of their boundaries to fully im- ing to experience the richness of that culture that offers classes to help visitors transform merse themselves in the local culture. through its cuisine. the cooking experience. Each student particiThis course takes students on a gastro“Whether it was shopping and tasting pates in the time-consuming process of mak- nomical adventure, where they gain a respect unknown foods from the fresh market or ing Valencian paella by taking on a role at a for their new and temporary surroundings learning about the wines of Valencia and all station, where they add meat, vegetables, rice, and dare to try things that some people of Europe, every class was exciting and kept and various sauces and spices. us engaged,” says Samantha Wells, who After three hours of chopping, frytook the course during the spring 2015 “Doctor Ángeles said this class ing, and mixing they finally have their term. would be gastronomically perfect product and the students are At the vanguard of experimental able to try it, accompanied with homeand innovative cuisine, Valencia has a difficult rather than made sangria and chocolate ice cream to variety of culinary options to explore. academically, and he was right.” reward their hard work.

Since food is so highly regarded, in or— Alex Bajo der to make a name for yourself as a This is Doctor César Ángeles’ Food and Society class. chef, you must have a competitive at“Doctor Ángeles said this class would be might hardly consider food, such as Lithu- titude and an innovative mind.

Spain houses some of the most influential gastronomically difficult rather than academ- anian salted squid. ically, and he was right,” says Alex Bajo, an Ángeles allows students to experiment restaurants of our time, such as the worldFSU international affairs major. with an array of international foods while renowned three-star Michelin restaurant El Photo Monique Boileau It isbyone thing to test your culinary lim- discovering food’s relationship to society. Bulli, located near the town of Roses, Cata10 Summer 2015

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lonia. In 2006, The New York Times named Ferron Adrià, chef of El Bulli, the best chef in the world because of his creations, such as caviar made from olive oil, pine cone mousse, and cuttlefish ravioli in coconut milk.

Adrià’s success has inspired Spanish protégés such as José Andrés, chef and host of the television program Made in Spain, which showcases the broad talent stemming from this region.

During the summer of 2015, the class tried 10 different preserved foods from all over Europe, Africa, and Asia. The selections ranged from octopus in oil to Bulgarian cheese in brine. Each food was like a Happy Meal with a surprise inside, some happier than others.

“The [Lithuanian salted squid] was like a piece of paper that wouldn’t break,” Bajo says.

Students are reluctant at first to try food so different from what they are used to eating.

Human nature eventually gives way, though, and many are sometimes surprised by what they find.

“I mixed tomato marmalade with goat cheese on bread, and it was heavenly,” Bajo says.

Throughout the years this course has developed and added crucial components to the lesson plan, such as impact of world hunger. Ángeles was reluctant about adding this topic at first, but now considers it an essential part of the course.

“It deals with how human beings interrelate through food as part of culture and civilization in an increasingly globalized world,” he says.

Coming from an area greatly affected by war, the topic of world hunger is familiar to Spaniards. Famine swept the nation when the Spanish Civil War began in 1936, and Ángeles attributes this factor to the value older generations of Spaniards now place on food.

“The whole idea about Span"[Students] come out with ish traditional food is being academic knowledge. They able to feed someone with very come out respecting other little money,” he says. “What cultures and civilizations you have at hand is a very and, if things were done cheap, humble plate of food, well, they come out having but always there. Something learned a little bit more that you can count on. It’s worabout themselves." ship really.”

— Dr. César Ángeles But a generational gap has emerged, and Ángeles says the younger generation has lost its appreciation for authentic Spanish cuisine, trading paella for a juicy hamburger or a slice of pizza.

“Traditional food is being lost, and that in many ways is a shame both culturally and economically,” Ángeles says.

By nudging students out of their comfort While working as a physician for the Polyzones, the class helps students become more technic University, Ángeles noticed a sign cultured and encourages them to venture be- for FSU on a local building and went to inyond the foods they would typically eat. vestigate. There he met Valencia’s program “From learning all about the regions of director, Ignacio Messana, and Ángeles beSpain and what foods come from those re- came a physician for FSU students. In 2010, gions to the influences other cultures have on “From learning all about the regions Spain, I find myself of Spain and what foods come from still applying those lessons during my study those regions to the influences other abroad experience,” cultures have on Spain, I find myself Wells says. still applying those lessons during my Although he was born and now lives in study abroad experience.”

Valencia, Ángeles is a — Samantha Wells true Seminole at heart.

He grew up in Florida, and after high school he attended FSU, he was given the opportunity to teach, and, where his father was chairman of the Mod- coming from a teaching family, he immediern Languages department. When he moved ately took the position. back to Valencia, Ángeles did not lose the garnet and gold spirit.

See FOOD AND SOCIETY, page 33

Opposite page and above: Students spend three hours making the paella and reward themselves at the end by trying it.

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Summer 2015 11

A world of wisdom

American expatriates and FSU faculty members William Biringer and David Nordlund have made Valencia their home, and they are opening new doors so their students can learn about the city

By Joseph Quintana

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Photos by Joseph Quintana

David Nordlund takes students out of the classroom to give them a hands-on lesson on what Valencia's streets are about.

12 Summer 2015

alencia is home to a bounty of ancient monuments: the San Juan Hospital, the Torres de Serrano, the Mercado Colón, and many other timeless treasures. Despite the centuries that separate students from when these sites were built, William “B.J.” Biringer and David “Dr. No” Nordlund are like time travelers with the way they bring these ruins back to life.

Professors in residence at Florida State University’s Study Abroad Program in Valencia, Spain, and veterans of the program, Biringer and Nordlund teach every class with the passion of a first-year instructor.

“B.J. wants you to find your voice in his class, while also being respectful of other students and letting your voice be heard,” says Sarah Tatum, a student of Biringer’s in summer 2015. “He wants you to be passionate about the subjects you talk about while educating yourself about the culture surrounding your everyday life.”

Both scholars are homegrown Americans. Nordlund grew up among palm trees and Lakers fans in his native Southern California, earning his B.A. from St. Mary’s College of California, his M.A. from Middlebury College in Vermont, and his Ph.D. in Hispanic Studies from UCLA. Biringer, who grew up in the Pittsburgh area, attained his bachelor’s degree in Spanish and international affairs at Penn State, his master’s degrees in Spanish and in history at West Virginia University, and his doctoral degree at Florida State.

Both men serve as a helpful bridge between Spanish and American culture for students, says FSU Program Director Ignacio Messana.

“B.J. is not only a great professor, but also a wonderful person,” Messana says. “He communicates very well with the students and ends up being a great channel of culture between the U.S. and Spain or between our U.S. students and his passion for the Spanish and Valencian culture.”

Messana also has praise for what Nordlund brings to the program.

“David gets the best from his students every semester,” Messana says. “He is a good scholar and a very good researcher, and the students know that they must work hard in his classes. But the reward is leaving Spain having learned, experienced, and walked through the knowledge, history, and streets of Valencia.”

Biringer and Nordlund are perfect for the Valencia program, not only academically but personally. In addition to speaking fluent Spanish and being married to Valencia women, they are no strangers to the city.

In 1982, Nordlund was backpacking across Europe as a teenager when he visited Valencia as a tourist, but he couldn’t resist the city’s charm. As an undergraduate, he returned to Valencia to study abroad for a year. After his B.A., he took a teaching job in Valen-

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cia, when he met Maria Sierra, whom he later married. Later, while working on his master’s degree at Middlebury, he actually did most of his work at Middlebury’s Madrid campus.

Since 1999, Nordlund has called Valencia home and now vacations annually in California. However, when not in Valencia or California, he enjoys spending time with his family in their country house in Valencia’s wine country, where he enjoys hiking in the foothills with his dog Lars.

“Dr. No is knowledgeable and we always learn something new,” says Jacqueline DePorre, one of Nordlund’s students. “He also believes learning should take place outside of the classroom and takes us on outings.”

Biringer first arrived in Valencia in 2000 to work on his dissertation and to teach at the FSU study center. He did all of his writing and editing in Valencia, receiving his Ph.D. in 2005.

“I was the first student to ever write a doctoral thesis in an FSU international program,” he says.

Currently, Biringer is active in an array of groups in Valencia: the Falla de Barrio San José (part of Valencia’s most famous annual celebration, Fallas), the Valencian Humane Society, and the American Space (a U.S. State Department initiative that tries to bring together Spanish and American cultures).

Even though he has lived in Valencia since

Photo courtesy of William Biringer

B.J. Biringer gives an interview during his tenure as Vice President of the Falla de Barrio San José.

2000, he still manages to stream Nittany Lions games on his laptop during football season (we forgive him).

You would normally expect some level of culture shock when your plane lands in a foreign place that you’ve maybe only seen in history books, but these experienced travelers settled down in a place that has the perfect remedy for those worried about not fitting in.

“The idea of community and friendship is one of the best things about Valencia,” Biringer says, his face glowing as he raves about his city.

“The people are very open. I have, since day one, felt welcomed. Never have I felt outcast or marginalized; people here want to know you, they want to know your life.”

Nordlund and Biringer have completely immersed themselves into Valencian culture, which is exactly the experience they want to share with their students (with the exception of searching for a spouse). Studying abroad is not about sitting in a classroom in an unfamiliar place; it’s about diving head first into that culture to make that place familiar.

“For studying abroad, stuPhoto courtesy of William Biringer dents need professors who B.J. Biringer and his wife, Mariá de los Angeles Varea like to be out in the field,” Bou, wear traditional Valencian garb.

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says Nordlund as he leads a class excursion across Plaza de la Virgen. “When I teach culture and humanities classes, I can use Spain to give students a much more vibrant context. After a film showing, I can reference local culture, and these students actually get to live it.”

In the United States, students do not have the opportunity to literally interact with the course text. In Valencia, Biringer thrives on giving students that chance.

“In the States, in the classroom, in a textbook, you can’t look at all these paintings in the same light. I get to show people Dali in person,” says Biringer, barely able to contain his excitement. “That’s what makes it great.

Or we go to the archaeological ruin, and you can actually touch the castle and be with it.”

Firing off what seems like 1,000 words a minute coupled with lightning-fast gestures, Nordlund might seem a little overwhelming at first, but he has this frenetic pace because he just has so much information to dish out.

In class, he draws maps of historical sites prior to his scheduled class expedition. He details the interior of the San Juan Hospital down to the exact number of windows.

In addition to teaching FSU Valencia students and to having served as the former dean and academic director of FSU Valencia, Nordlund teaches U.S. students studying abroad at the Berklee College of Music’s program in Valencia.

And from 2008-2013, Nordlund worked for the U.S. Department of State, managing See EX-PATS, page 32

Summer 2015 13

A fuller experience

Spanish café culture hits the spot with students

S

it down, order, eat, pay, leave.

Sound familiar? Not in Spain.

America and España are worlds apart when it comes to their respective café cultures.

“Eating in the Mediterranean context is a social act more than a survival fact,” says Valencian-born Juan Salazar Bonet, an archaeology professor with FSU Valencia.

In the U.S, everything is fast paced and focused mainly on the food. In Spain, socializing is the focal point of every meal.

“We take our time at lunch, especially in the middle of the day because it is our main meal,” says FSU Valencia Associate Director Alicia Martínez, a native of Spain. “It’s not only for eating, but after eating, we have coffee time and talk to the people that we are eating with.

“This is our way to live—our concep-

Article and photos by Rachel Townsend

tion,” Martínez says. “We work a lot here so we need to maintain relationships with our family members and friends as a part of our lives.”

Taking time out of the day to sit and enjoy company is vastly important in Spanish culture. At first, most students who study abroad are taken back by the idea of spending two hours at a café, but it doesn’t take long to get used to and even come to enjoy.

“The experience of going to Spanish restaurants was a culture shock for me,” says summer 2015 student Erica Pope. “I am used to quick food, quick drinks, and quick service. While at first I found dining in Valencia to be rather annoying, I eventually developed a gratefulness for it.”

Pope found herself enjoying the food more, appreciating the company more, and relishing her surroundings more.

Valencians and tourists alike socialize as they enjoy a meal in the city’s historic Plaza de la Virgen.

14 Summer 2015

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“Instead of speeding through a meal, I was truly in the moment,” she says.

Although every mealtime is a social hour in Spain, lunch is the biggest deal of all. Meals are typically eaten later in the day than in the States, which means lunchtime generally falls around 2 p.m. This is the most important part of the day for the Spanish. Small shops will even shut down for a few hours to allow their workers time to enjoy a big lunch with family and friends and then re-open in the early evening—this time is often mistaken as a time for a siesta, or nap, by non-Spaniards.

Lunchtime holds a Spanish-wide cultural importance, but it is not the only meal of value in Valencia. Almorzar, as it is called in Spanish, is a mid-morning eating stop when businessmen and women take a break from what they are doing and sit down for a coffee or drink with a bite of bread.

“In Valencian, the language of the city, we call it esmorzar … and it is like a religion,” Salazar says. “It is the time to talk about the news or other general topics—fútbol, politics, etc.”

Because the restaurant and café atmosphere is so centered on socialization, going out to eat generally calls for a more laid-back atmosphere.

“Opposite to the States, it is rude if a waiter or waitress approaches the table and gives you the check directly. We don’t like that at all,” Martínez says, with a soft chuckle.

Locals are used to taking their time with a meal, in part due to the climate in Spain, Martinez says. It gets hot during the summer and most people do not own air conditioning—it is considered a luxury due to its high expense.

“So we leave the hot and go outside in the street and meet a lot of people,” she says.

Rather than sitting inside and cooking in the heat, going out is the preferred option.

It is even fairly common to see dogs walking alongside their owners as they journey to a nearby café.

In good weather, which is year round in Valencia and most of Spain alike, most people sit outside when they go out for a bite to eat, or even if it’s just for a cup of coffee. No matter what part of town, no matter where in the country, sitting outside at a café is simply part of the Spanish culture.

“You always have excuses to say: Let’s go have a coffee,” Martinez says. “And you don’t necessarily have to drink a coffee. I mean, you

can drink a Coke, you can drink a horchata in summertime, or you can drink whatever you want. But the excuse is always coffee.”

You might be curious as to what types of dishes are ordered in these cafés. Valencia is located on the Mediterranean, so seafood is a large part of the diet, although seafood options are a bit different than what you might be used to in America.

“Try new foods—it’s definitely worth it,” FSU sophomore Samantha Arvin says.

“I tried a whole octopus and didn’t like it, but I’m glad that I tried it. It was a new experience. Just take it all in because it’s an important aspect of the culture here. You can live how the locals live.”

Paella, eels, patatas bravas (fried potatoes with a mild spicy sauce), croquetas (fried bread crumbs with a creamy filling), and gazpacho are just a few traditional foods to be found in Spain.

Although not all people like such cuisine, all should at least try. As pointed out by Arvin, the food is part of the Spanish culture, and the best way to enjoy the culture is to immerse yourself in it.

“You just don’t get this back in Florida,” Arvin says.

Nearly every street in Valencia has some historical rel-

evance, and nearly every street has a place to sit and eat. This culture is offering far more than a pleasant meal. When eating at a café or restaurant in Spain you are eating with history. You are becoming a part of the culture.

Photo courtesy of Samantha Arvin

Above: Samantha Arvin enjoys a glass of sangria while tasting pulpo, or octupus.

FSU students enjoy lunch in between classes at Lavin, a student and staff favorite.

See page 34 for Rachel Townsend’s photo essay about café culture.

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Summer 2015 15

Home is where the heart is

A look into the lives of Enrique Álvarez and Michael Leeser

By Sarah Tatum

T

he study abroad program in Valencia offers students and faculty members the opportunity to create a home away from home.

With the help of Florida State University’s International Programs, they are able to establish temporary roots in a new culture and environment.

Enrique Álvarez and Michael Leeser are associate professors of Spanish at FSU, where they have taught for the past 11 years. Since 2012, they both have been establishing their own sense of place in Valencia when teaching during various academic sessions. They also have been partners for almost 20 years.

Their home environment in Tallahassee is well established, but they appreciate being able to create a second, comfortable home in Valencia.

“I love being in a place where we can walk everywhere, and you walk out of your building and are confronted with life,” Leeser says.

Both feel that the culture and structure of Valencia’s program creates a unique learning environment for students as well as for themselves.

“In the summer sessions, we establish a very specific kind of relationship with our students that you don’t get in Tallahassee,” Álvarez says. Álvarez’s academic focus in Tallahassee is Spanish literature and cultural studies, in addition to studies in gender with a focus on Alvarez (left) and Leeser in Valencia’s City of Arts and Sciences.

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masculinity, and he teaches Spanish Read- and Latin American studies. He then moved ing and Conversation in Valencia. Leeser to the United States in 1997 and received his focuses on second-language acquisition and Ph.D. in 20th-century Spanish literature and bilingualism in Tallahassee, and he teaches cultural studies.

Studies in Hispanic Languages in Valencia.

“I love Florida State for many, many, They met at the University many reasons—I can’t begin to name of Illinois at Urbana-Chamall of them, but the way they have been paign while earning their since day one, the administrators, and Ph.D.s; Álvarez was in his second year and Leeser in his first. academics, and colleagues have been “We found each other as life about our relationship by not making companions; our life together an issue about it, it’s been really good.” has been a fantastic accom— Enrique Álvarez plishment of commitments,” Álvarez says.

The two have found a pleasing balance Leeser completed his B.A. at Wheaton between work and home life. They have the College in Illinois and his M.A at Middlebury same colleagues but teach different types of College in Vermont. He received his Ph.D. in classes for FSU’s Modern Languages and Hispanic linguistics and acquisitions.

Linguistics Department. They also enjoy “We are so happy to have them coming to their time together, especially traveling, but teach from the Spanish program of FSU’s have their own personal interests they like to Modern Languages and Linguistics departtake on. Leeser likes competitive sports, for ment to the Valencia study center,” says FSU example, while Álvarez enjoys music shows. Program Director Ignacio Messana. “They “We have lots of things in common,” Ál- bring all the knowledge and all the coordivarez says, “and we agree to disagree some- nation with the ‘home campus’ for us, plus times, but we get along together very well.” all the academics, good teaching, and experiBoth are from small towns—Álvarez is ence. And, of course, all the fun. I am proud from Navia, Spain, which is located in the to say that for me, they are good faculty, and Principality of Asturias region, and Leeser above that, good friends.”

Students taking classes with the professors is from Macungie, Pennsylvania, which is enjoy the knowledge they bring to the proabout 60 miles northwest of Philadelphia. Álvarez moved to England to complete his gram. Karen Orellana, who took Leeser´s B.A. at London University, studying Spanish 2015 course in Valencia, admits not knowing much about her temporary new home before arriving in the country.

“Coming to Spain I didn’t know about the culture, and I have asked him so many questions and he has answered all of them without hesitation,” she says.

Annie Strickland, a student who took Álvarez’s summer 2015 course, says he is “a cool guy and has a lot of experience in the field.” Álvarez and Leeser agree that the most rewarding part of their Valencia experience is being able to watch their students grow. They teach students beyond the classroom and use the local community to help their students grow as Spanish-speaking students, and say they enjoy hearing their students become excited about the material they are learning.

“The student gaining enthusiasm and wanting to explore the culture is the best rePhoto courtesy of Michael Leeser ward as a teacher,” Leeser says.

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Álvarez and Leeser also help other visiting professors feel comfortable in their new environment by sharing their knowledge with them, says Eduardo Robles, a Florida A&M professor who teaches art and architecture courses in Valencia.

“To begin with, Enrique and Michael are good friends—they happily share the places and people that they have come to know in the past years teaching here,” Robles says. “They provide a bi-cultural experience by having a foot in Florida and one in Spain. Both are no nonsense. And funny.”

The two express their appreciation to be part of FSU’s community, especially for the support they receive with their partnership.

“I love Florida State for many, many, many reasons—I can’t begin to name all of them,” Álvarez says, “but the way they have been since day one, the administrators, and academics, and colleagues have been about our relationship by not making an issue about it, it’s been really good.”

American history changed June 26, 2015, when the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that same-sex marriage is a constitutional right.

Words and messages of support from those close to Álvarez and Leeser boosted the couple’s happiness with the court’s decision, making the day even more memorable for them.

“What struck me the most was emails I got from former students, and family members, and friends that are very supportive,” Leeser says. “That’s what meant the most, getting that support from our straight allies.”

“Straight allies that are happy for you because they love you,” Álvarez adds. “It is an accomplishment for them as well.”

That day was a turning point for Americans, and a lot of people expressed themselves on assorted social media platforms.

“Facebook became some sort of a multi-

Photo coutesy of Michael Leeser

Leeser and Alvarez during a visit to Leeser’s hometown in Pennsylvania. cultural, multi-colorful place,” Álvarez says.

While the court’s decision was very recent, Álvarez and Leeser have been talking about the idea of marriage for quite some time.

“It’s part of our responsibility as educators to also educate our fellow citizens in America about what is a right to live by one’s emotional desires, without interfering in others’ (lives),” Álvarez says.

Education is an important concept to Álvarez and Leeser, within their private life and at work. Álvarez wrote his dissertation on queer male poets in Spain and is currently researching problematic construction of masculinity in 20th-century Hispanic culture.

Leeser’s dissertation focused on second language comprehension, and he has published several journal articles on the topic.

One of the classes that Álvarez teaches in Tallahassee is titled Queer Theory.

“Queer studies is a growing field of inqui-

ry in the humanities,” Álvarez says. Originally offered to just graduate students, the class is now open to undergraduates.

“Because my students are [activists], and they come to us with questions, and we provide them with answers, and I might not be upfront as an activist but I certainly feel like one,” Álvarez says.

The two are excited to see America enter a time of change, and move toward a positive view of marriage equality. They are pleased that recent events are starting to encourage the view that love is equal for everyone.

“Love is having a simple dinner, and feeling like you are dining at the Ritz,” Álvarez says. “Love is to have a simple omelet with a glass of wine, and that simple omelet and glass of wine taste like the best meal ever.

That’s love.”

“And watching ‘Game of Thrones,’” Leeser adds, causing both to laugh in agreement.

Enrique Álvarez´s three favorite Spanish poets Olvido García Valdés: Born December 20, 1950, Valdés has written poetry, prose, and translations. She has three major stages of writing. The first includes her first three verse collections. The second includes her prose book Caza Nocturna. The third includes two books of poetry that bring a profound awareness of death. In her third stage, her collection titled Y todos estábamos vivos won the National Poetry Prize in 2007. She is currently a professor of literature and Spanish in the Instituto el Greco of Toledo, Spain.

Federico García Lorca: Born June 5, 1898, he was part of the Generation of ’27. His most famous work, the Romancero Gitano, was published in 1928. The ballads highlight the gypsy lifestyle and the trials and tribulations the gypsy people go through.

The book brought him fame across Spain and the Hispanic world, and he went on to write many more poems and plays until his death. García Lorca was arrested on August 18, 1936, at the outset of the Spanish Civil War, and he was executed by the National Militia on August 19, 1936.

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Jaime Gil de Biedma: Born November 13, 1929, Biedma was a Catalan post-Civil War poet. His earlier poems showed a strong opinion toward Spanish dictatorship, and his first publication, Compañeros, took after the Trotskyist expression for Communist sympathizers. Along with Francisco Brines, he was also famous for helping to reinvigorate homoerotic topics in poetry. Biedma belonged to a group of poets known as the Generation of ’50, individuals who were inspired by social realism after the Spanish Civil War. He died in 1990 from AIDS. Summer 2015 17

Sea breezes & city streets Students travel around Spain with Valencia program

By Lauren Thompson

Photo by Lauren Thompson

View overlooking the town of Peñíscola from El Castell de Peñíscola 18 Summer 2015

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W

hen thinking of Spain a few things come to mind: bulls, flamenco, siesta, and soccer, just to name a few. There is much more to the country than those common stereotypes, however, which Florida State’s Study Abroad Program in Valencia tries to teach students by taking them on field trips around the region.

“Spain is a very diverse country” says Melissa Claessens, FSU’s cultural program coordinator. “Every province is different, and they even speak different languages. We just want to give you the Spain experience, not only the Valencian.”

Through the program, students in the summer B session for 2015 traveled to Peñíscola, Segovia, Madrid, and Toledo. In other sessions, students have traveled to Barcelona, Seville, and Granada.

The small, seaside town of Peñíscola, about 90 miles from Valencia, was the first trip of the session. Students visited a historic castle nestled on a hill overlooking the town and were given a brief tour of the fortress.

Some students climbed to the highest point of the hill, where they enjoyed picturesque views of the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea. “One of my absolute favorite parts of the trip were the breathtaking views from the top of the castle,” says Melissa Betters, an FSU junior majoring in marine biology. “With a relatively easy climb, it was amazing everything that you could see. The white-washed buildings with the red roofs and the impossibly bright blue water were all breathtaking and actually looked a little Greek.”

While views from the top were the most sought after, some students ventured farther into the rooms of the fortress and received additional views from inside.

“My other favorite part of the trip, though, was actually getting in the water,” Betters says. “It felt as beautiful as it looked; it was almost crystal clear and perfectly warm.”

Students took part in different activities while at the beach. Some adventurers went paddle boarding, some sunbathed, and some dove into the silky smooth sea.

Soon, the 3 p.m. departure time rolled around and everyone was back on the bus, exhausted from their explorations. This short day trip only increased the students’ excitement for what was to come one week later: a weekend in Madrid.

The program staff prepares students thoroughly for the time spent in Madrid, the largest planned trip of the session. First, stu-

dents meet with program assistants to sign up for hotel rooms and for group assignments. The evening before leaving Valencia, at a dinner held for all the students, they were given their itinerary, some explanation about the places they would visit, and hotel information. The meeting not only provided a reference for the group’s activities while in Madrid, but it also enhanced the excitement in the air.

Before long, Thursday afternoon arrived, and close to 200 students, program assistants, and faculty and staff members were boardPhoto curtesy of Melissa Betters ing buses for the ride to The parks in Madrid are full of interesting finds as Madrid. junior Melissa Betters finds out while taking a stroll.

After a night of exploration and discovery of Spain’s capital city, the There was a sense of peace that came from large group divided into two with one group looking out over the valley, however, considstaying in Madrid for the day and the other ering the calm, serene nature that engulfed heading to Segovia, a city about an hour and the monument. Still, having been carved out a half away from Madrid. The trip to Segovia of the side of a mountain, the entirety of the included another stop not far from Madrid, basilica felt cave-like and haunting. though, the Valley of the Fallen.

“The building was breathtaking—the Located above a forested valley, the site views, the architecture—but it was unsetis beautiful. Francisco Franco, the former tling,” says Christine Allston, an FSU junior Spanish dictator, commissioned the gigantic majoring in international affairs. “I enjoyed monument to be built, and much controver- going to the Valley of the Fallen and learnsy comes with this place. ing about the Spanish Civil War, but it was an Not only is it meant to honor some of intense and heavy place to be.” those who died during the Spanish Civil War, See FIELD TRIPS, page 36 but it also is home to the church where Franco is buried. Critics of the monument say that it does not honor those who fought against or suffered under Franco.

“I didn’t expect it to be so huge,” says Claudia Gonzalez, an FSU editing, writing, and media major who graduated at the end of the summer.

“Then I walked in, and that too was larger than I had expected. It was eerie. What surprised me was the Photo curtesy of Kathryn Kane fact that this is a huge With the beautiful city of Toledo behind her, art major church.”

Kathryn Kane enjoys the last leg of the Madrid trip.

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Summer 2015 19

emotion

IN MOTION

Students immerse themselves in Spanish culture by experiencing flamenco during their trip to Madrid and in Valencia

T

By Erica Pope

he lights dim as anticipation rises means something. Despite the upbeat sound in the room. A guitarist starts of flamenco, most songs are about feelings of to play. Someone begins to sing oppression and sadness from losing or missin a loud voice. A dancer moves ing a loved one. across the stage and a clacking noise rings out.

The style originated in the province of AnSuddenly, everything is in sync. This is the dalusia, Spain, and it was known as a popular sound of flamenco. form of music expression among the poor “If you walk away from Spain and never and oppressed. The style passed on from genexperienced flamenco, then there´s a big eration to generation through oral tradition hole,” says Larry Gerber, professor of voice and has evolved over the years, and elements at Florida State University who teaches World include cante (singing), toque (guitar playing), Music Culture and Modern Popular Music for baile (dance), palmas (handclapping), and piValencia’s study abroad program. “It´s a big tos (finger snapping). hole in what you should´ve accomplished in During the period from1765 to 1860, the your time here.” first flamenco schools were built in Cadiz, FSU students who studied during the sum- Jerez de la Frontera, and Triana (Seville). Durmer 2015 B session experienced flamenco at ing this time, flamenco was mainly performed least once during their time in Spain during a in ballrooms. Flamenco first became a public, program-wide trip performing art with to Madrid, when the emergence of “What most amazed me they visited Tablao café cantantes (flaRestaurante Las during the show was how menco clubs) in the Carboneras for din- skilled and fast the guitar late 19th century. ner and a show.

The first café canplayers were. I couldn´t keep Before entering tante originated in my eyes off of them during the venue, AssociSeville in 1842, and ate Director Alicia their solo performance.” attracted very little atMartinez prepared — FSU senior Kenzie Hendrix tention. But eventustudents by describally around the 1860s, ing what they would see and calling it a “magi- these cafés started to attract more attention cal” experience. and opened in other major cities including “I witnessed true passion that night,” says Madrid.

Corbin Ryan, a student with the FSU proBy the end of the 19th century, the café gram. “I could see raw emotion on the faces cantante culture greatly declined, which ulof the performers as they vigorously danced timately brought on the rise of flamenco as and sang, conveying feelings of regret, sor- more of a theatrical performance similar to a row, and anguish to name a few. Flamenco ballet. The Spanish Civil War caused the perdance is no mere spectacle to be taken lightly. formance of flamenco to decline in the late It is a window into another way of life.”

1930s and early 1940s; however, it started to The night included a four-course meal with gain popularity again in the 1950s by appeartypical Spanish dishes such as patatas bravas. ing in festivals in Cordoba, Jerez, and Malaga.

The performance involved four dancers and The flamenco song involves a combination two guitarists, with solo performances from of four cultures including the Romanis, the each person.

Right: A dancer performs The dance of flamenco is not just a Spanher solo act in Madrid. ish version of tap dancing—each movement 20 Summer 2015

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Photos by Erica Pope

tar players were,” but many also saw flamenco shows in difMoors, the Jews, “Flamenco dancing is no FSU senior Kenzie ferent Valencia locations. and indigenous Hendrix says. “I Gerber took a large group of students to Andalusians. The mere spectacle to be taken couldn’t keep my see a performance at Radio City during the Romanis, Moors, lightly. It is a window into eyes off of them first week of the summer B session, someand Jews came toanother way of life.” during their solo thing he has done for hundreds of students gether from the — Corbin Ryan performance.” in the past years. general persecution What makes Café del Duende is another Valencia venue that followed the 2015 study abroad student flamenco so dis- where students can see a more intimate flaexpulsion of the Moors in 1492. Flamenco was eventually cre- tinctive from other music is that it is not menco show. The name comes from the feelated by the fusion of the cante Gitano with designed to impress the audience and catch ing of heightened emotions audience memAndalusian folk music. The guitar and other people’s attention, but is more intended to bers can get during the performance.

Students also may have seen flamenco instruments including the bandurria, violin, draw the audience to it. This uniqueness is and tambourine were not a part of flamenco what makes people enjoy it so much because without planning to while walking the streets it allows the audience to be a part of an inti- of Valencia in areas around La Plaza de Pamusic until the late 18th century. triarcha and La Plaza de la Virgen, where imToque, or guitar playing, is an important mate experience that the performers create.

While flamenco puro, or traditional flamenco, promptu performances might feature a guipart of flamenco music. The guitars used during a flamenco performance are different typically involves just a singer and a dancer, tarist and a singer. Sometimes these can be than regular guitars. The traditional flamen- flamenco musicians have also branched out to the best shows to watch and listen to because co guitar is made of sycamore, cypress, and create nuevo flamenco, or new flamenco, which of their authenticity and passion.

Flamenco is an important part of Spanish rosewood and is built with thinner tops than has become popular around the world thanks classical guitars. to artists such as the Gipsy Kings and Paco culture and prevalent in Valencia, but Gerber encourages FSU’s Additionally, the flamenco guitar has the de Lucia. This type of Students also danced their way through study abroad students extra feature of a tap plate, whose function music fuses together swing dancing lessons; see page 30. to “look up flamenco is to protect the body of the guitar from the other musical genres artists and keep it alive,” when they return including jazz, rock, reggae, among others. guitarist’s frequent taps.

Not only were students given the oppor- to the U.S., “because once you hear that, it´ll “What most amazed me during the [Madrid] show was how skilled and fast the gui- tunity to experience flamenco in Madrid, draw you back to your time in Spain.”

Photo by Sasha Polissky

Photo by Erica Pope

Photo by Sasha Polissky

Photo by Sasha Polissky

Photo by Rachel Townsend

Above, flamenco dancers from venues in Valencia, Sevilla, and Madrid perform in front of FSU students.

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Summer 2015 21

A little USA in the VLC

Discovering the red, white, and blue in Valencia Article and photos by Corbin Ryan

Y

ou find yourself in a restaurant.

The menu offers a variety of gourmet burgers, with names such as the All-American, the Bar-B-Q Burger, the Chiliburger. Movie posters cover the walls, advertising Hollywood blockbusters such as The Terminator, The Edge of Tomorrow, and Twilight. Billy Joel’s “Piano Man” plays over the speakers.

This is a familiar environment, similar to many other eateries you have found yourself in while growing up. But there is one major difference to the experience you are having in this burger joint: You are in Valencia, Spain.

Students preparing to study abroad in Valencia may anxiously anticipate the culture shock they will experience, but bits and pieces of the U.S. can be seen and heard in many places throughout the community to ease their worries. You are able to see that influence from the restaurants, to the films that are advertised, to the music that is played in restaurants and over the local radio stations.

Though it is both appreciated and criticized in Valencia, there is no mistaking that aspects of American culture are very much part of the city’s identity. Some professors with FSU’s study abroad program have at least one simple answer to America’s presence in Valencia.

“You are the Roman Empire of the 21st century” says Professor Juan Salazar, a Valencian native. He teaches archaeology courses for the FSU program.

Professor B.J. Biringer agrees with Salazar’s assessment, and adds that there are economic reasons for this Americanization.

“I’m not saying that it’s 22 Summer 2015

good, I’m not saying that it’s bad — it’s happening,” says Biringer, a native Pennsylvanian who has lived in Valencia for the past 15 years. “Why? Mainly because of globalization, and the new generation of people that you have, culturally, who are studying abroad.”

Some of the more complex answers to persisting American influences in Valencia lie in the two places’ historical relationship.

“The United States requires no introductions. It is already inside us. Or perhaps it is part of us that is inside them,” writes Jose Antonio in Barres I Estels, els Valencians I Els USA, a book published to accompany a Valencia conference that took place in early 2015 that was devoted to analyzing the American influence in Valencian culture and vice versa.

Several discussion panels made up the conference, including one led by Biringer and

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FSU Valencia’s Program Director Ignacio Messana titled “Fallas or New Orleans Carnival? Who celebrates a festivity better?”

FSU Professor David Nordlund, who teaches in Valencia, led one called “Americans in Valencia, from Hemingway to the America’s Cup (and much more).”

American influence can begin at an early age for many Valencians. Sometimes they might even take on American symbols and figures as a part of their own identities. Salazar says he and his friends, in their adolescence, loved NBA basketball, without much thought of what culture it came from.

“They played well, we watched the games, and enjoyed the games—that was all,” he says, and adds that his parents grew up listening to American music, like Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, and other English music.

“When I say ‘the American influence,’ you could also say ‘the English influence.’

We don’t distinguish that much between the two.”

In essence, Salazar’s comments on this topic echo the passage in Barres I Estels, els Valencians I Els USA. “We grew up probably with the same [TV] programs that you did. Having these movie characters as the symbols of what we wanted to become. Everyone of my generation has

seen Star Wars and is a fan,” he says. “We have been influenced by so many elements of American culture that it is difficult to tell what’s different [from us].”

But Valencians do not enjoy American culture solely in their private lives. Simply walk from the FSU Study Center to La Plaza de la Virgen, for instance, and you can see these influences in action within the narrow city streets and on the plaza.

“Rap and hip-hop, that’s very The sign above can be baffling, with its look popular here,” Biringer says. “You of a 1950s American ad. The text translates to see young Spanish groups doing "Call Peggy Sue at home and order!!!"

Spanish rap. And hip-hop. And it’s popular. Or, you see the skateboard culture as of the 1950s, helped the presence of the United States in Spain to grow. As of the among the young people here.”

Biringer, Salazar, and their colleague 1960s, the presence of the U.S. economy Professor Enrique Alvarez all talked about was marked by the emergence of companies some of the surface ways that American like IBM or Ford. American popular culture culture has seeped into Valencia and Spain, (jazz, rock, fashion Made-in-the-U.S.A. film but their opinions also went much deeper. genres, TV series, food multinationals, shopThe three of them had insights on how eco- ping malls) has been taken on by younger nomics and corporatization are both driv- generations of Valencians as their own.”

Not all of the influences flow from Amering forces behind the phenomenon of the ica to Valencia, however. two cultures intersecting.

“Few New Yorkers know that the architect “It belongs to some sort of market strategy that is very conspicuous of what Ameri- of the Grand Central Terminal came from can culture is,” says Alvarez, a Spaniard who Valencia or that when they take a cab, it is has attained dual citizenship in his home very likely to have been manufactured in Vacountry and in the United States. For exam- lencia,” the book points out.

Of course, students from FSU and other ple, when Alvarez comments on Starbucks, one of the most internationally recognized American universities bring more individual corporations, he says, “As you know, in Spain and personal influences when they study in we have very good coffee. I don’t know why Valencia. Alvarez offers a few suggestions we need Starbucks in this country. I believe for them to consider as they become imthat there is no need, yet, it is a very success- mersed in a different culture.

“Something you should take into account ful business.”

Biringer points out that because there is if you want to talk about the perception of such a strong corporate influence from the American culture in Valencia is the way that U.S., there also is a demand to learn Ameri- your fellow Americans in Valencia behave in can English, especially among the younger the streets late at night—that will be picked up by the passerby,” he says. “We as Amerigenerations.

“For years, America has been the number cans have to be concerned about the actual one world economy, and defines what hap- image that we present.”

Future study abroad students should be pens to the world economically,” he says.

“Morever, English is the technological lan- aware that the real impressions Spaniards will guage of the world. Million and billion dollar have of America and the culture will be the deals are brokered every day and every min- ones they experience firsthand. If students ute around the world in English. Therefore, want America to have a positive image, then if you want to be something and advance em- these students must try their hardest to give off the best impression they can. ployment wise in Spain, you need English.”

“What is the image we want to project in Passages in Barres I Estels, els Valencians I Els USA reference these economic connec- Valencia as American students living in a different country? That is the question,” Alvations, adding a recent historical context.

“The ups and downs of Spanish history, rez says.

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Spanish culture 101 Yes, students and faculty members will find a good amount of American/English influence in Valencia while participating in a study abroad session. It is important to remember, however, that you are a visitor in Spain, and that there are small acts or understandings of the culture that can show you appreciate the invitation into the country.

• Learn a little bit of Spanish before you leave the U.S. If you know at least how to order your food in Spanish, it will show that you are willing to participate in Spanish culture. If you want to go the extra mile, maybe even look up and become familiar with a little Valencian, the local dialect of the city.

• Apparel should be smart and conservative. This will allow you to look less like a tourist and you will better connect with the locals. For example, don’t wear clothing with text on it, English or otherwise. You want to appear as if you could be from any country. Also, cover your shoulders and knees. “You can never be overdressed or overeducated,” Oscar Wilde said.

• Spaniards tend to socialize a lot later than Americans do in the States.

A typical Friday or Saturday night in Valencia may start with dinner at 10 p.m., and a drink or two with dinner.

Then, to a bar or tavern at midnight.

Then, out to the clubs at 2 or 3 a.m.

Finally, arrive home at 5 or 6 a.m.

• Just like Spanish nightlife, lunch and dinner are held later in Spain, regardless of what day it is. Restaurants typically open between 2 or 3 p.m. for lunch and between 8 and 11 p.m. for dinner.

• Almost all bartenders and waiters earn a decent salary in Spain. Because of this, it is usually not necessary to leave a tip. Sometimes for bigger groups it can be considered a nice gesture to leave a few extra euros.

Above all, remember that you are guest in someone else’s country. Imagine how you would feel if someone came to your country and acted rudely and disrespectfully and how you would view that visitor’s own country.

Summer 2015 23

Open to change Valencia´s new mayor Joan Ribó Canute rings in a progressive era for the city

By Ashley Tressel

Photo by Ashley Tressel

24 Summer 2015

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Editor’s note: Author Ashley Tressel, who hopes to become a foreign correspondent, immersed herself in learning about local politics while studying in Valencia in summer 2015.

Compromís to actually take care of business in the city, since there has been a history of disagreement within the coalition. Voters are now alencians awoke on May 25 to a concerned that the leaders of change that some would say was a Compromís will be too busy long time coming. warring among themselves to New mayor, Joan Ribó Canute, agree on important decisions, won the election for Coalició Compromís, since the coalition contains a relatively new coalition that supports na- so many views: those of the tionalist, progressive, and ecological politics. Valencian Nationalist Bloc Ribó replaced Rita Barberá Nolla, who had (BLOC), the Valencian Peoheld the office for 24 years. ple’s Initiative (Iniciativa PV), Ribó is now the highest leader of the city and The Greens — Environof Valencia. Valencia is the capital of the mentalist Left (Verds-EE).

Valencian Community, an autonomous comReferring to itself as “Vamunity in Spain. Separate from these two, lencia’s third political force,” the province of Valencia is also a central part Compromís “was born as a of the Valencia Community and includes the viable electoral alternative for city of Valencia. the citizens of the Valencian Ribó served as deputy of the Valencian Country,” according to the Parliament from 1995-2007 and councilor party’s website. of the city of Valencia from 2011-2015, and This “electoral alternative” is now spokesman of Compromís. is no doubt in response to The coalition, formed in 2010, was found- Ribó’s predecessor, Barberá. ed on the sentiment “compromís means Such a long term is almost uncommitment.” Met with widespread enthusi- heard of among Americans, asm, Ribó was sworn in as mayor of Valencia who often tire of politicians on June 13. However, the initial enthusiasm after just four years. Barberá is about the progressive shift has quickly trans- the only mayor that young Valencians know. formed into skepticism for some.

Although Barberá held the highest per“I think [the local citizens] went from im- centage of the popular vote with 25.7 permediate excitement about a new opportunity cent, the Partido Popular (PP), to which Barto immediate doubts,” says David Nordlund, berá belongs, lost over half of its city council a professor in residence at the FSU Valencia seats to the more progressive Compromís.

Study Center who has lived in Valencia for Compromís was a close second with 23.3 16 years and who previously worked for the percent of the popular vote. There were six U.S. Department of State. parties total in the election, but none of the These doubts concern the ability of others managed to garner 20 percent.

The Valencian people, upon hearing the election results, were optimistic about the change in Former Mayor leadership. To her credit, BarRita Barberá berá, referred to familiarly by her Nolla lost her constituents as Rita Barberá, efposition after 24 fected plenty of positive change years of service. during her time as mayor.

Starting right at the beginning of her term, she cleaned up the city, which had a major drug problem in the 1980s, and transformed it into an area that local citizens could be proud of. She also directed effort into maintaining historical buildings and pushed the city to utilize greener Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons methods of transportation, such

V

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New mayor Ribó walks the streets with his supporters.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

as Valenbisi, a public bicycle rental service.

However, her positive influence on the city was not enough to stop the decline in her party’s seats.

This decline was likely due to several financial scandals surrounding the PP, the most famous of which occurred in July 2013.

Named the Bárcenas Affair after Luis Bárcenas, former treasurer of the PP, the scandal centered on claims that Bárcenas took donations from construction bigwigs and distributed them to PP party leaders in cash.

Furthermore, given the current state of recovery after the recession, voters had seemingly become disenchanted with the PP, and were craving a fresh start. And they have certainly found it in Ribó.

In the weeks after the election, Compromís was focusing on popular, superficial changes to try to boost its image. Ribó announced a few changes concerning the perks of his position, including decreasing his salary and selling one of the luxury cars that Barberá used to get around the city.

“There are gestures that show one wants to seem above the rest, but I like to be just a See ELECTION, page 35

Summer 2015 25

Finding food in Valencia What to eat and when while studying abroad

By Jennifer Knauf

Y

ou´re showered and ready to start the day, a day like any other, except that you´re studying abroad in Valencia, Spain. You have a few extra minutes before class to grab breakfast, but what should you eat? What is there to eat?

You have probably had a decent amount of practice feeding yourself; after all, college life is a culture shock in and of itself, and you have obviously been surviving somehow.

However, Spain is a whole different kind of culture shock: The food is different, the meal times are backwards and upside down, and then there is the small issue of needing to speak enough Spanish to order and pay.

“I started to become concerned about food when I noticed that my friend, who studied abroad in Valencia in the spring semester, came back much skinnier,” says Erica Pope, a summer 2015 study abroad student graduating in 2017.

Have no fear. There is no shortage of food or variety in Valencia.

“There´s actually a lot to eat and I have a newfound appreciation for Spanish food, even if it´s not my food of choice,” Pope says, revising her earlier statement.

For future Valencia study abroad students, here is a brief survivor´s guide for Spanish food, beverages, and meal times.

El desayuno

Breakfast

The all-American breakfast of eggs, bacon, and sausage with a side stack of pancakes drowning in syrup doesn’t exist in Spain. In fact, breakfast is considered the least important meal of the day and is often skipped. This meal, if eaten at all, is typically at 7 a.m., or whenever you wake up for work or school.

26 Summer 2015

Photo by Sarah Tatum

Traditional breakfast at Panaria.

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Coffee is the main form of sustenance for breakfast—keep in mind this is a small, non-American sized coffee. Some common coffees include café con leche (half coffee, half milk), el cappuccino (or coffee with milk and a dash of chocolate), and café cortado, for those who don’t like a lot of milk. The rest of the meal may consist of croissants, pastries, toast with jam, and other dishes centered on bread.

El almuerzo

Coffee break

The second “meal” of the day is a coffee break around 10 a.m. This is exactly what it sounds like: a break from work to drink more coffee and maybe eat a small sandwich, or montadito. If you haven’t caught on yet, Spaniards really like their coffee, and as a result, it has become one of the perfected arts.

“I am going to be a spoiled brat when I go back to America because the coffee here is just so good,” says 2015 study abroad student Sarah Tatum. “Nothing can compare.”

La comida

Lunch

The time between meals in Spain is extensive, hence the many snacks. Lunch doesn’t begin until 2 p.m. This is the biggest meal of the day in Spanish culture; you probably know it as la siesta, or the time in the middle of the day when everyone takes naps. However, people don’t really sleep during the three-hour lunch break. Instead, this is a time for family, when small-business owners close so they can go home to their loved ones. Or occasionally Spaniards may eat lunch at a café.

Lunch generally consists of three or more courses. It begins with something light like soup or salad. Two popular soups in Spain are gazpacho and salmorejo. Gazpacho is a tomato soup, served cold, and made with garlic, red and green pepper, olive oil, vinegar, and small pieces of bread on the side to mix in later, like croutons. Salmorejo is very similar.

Paella Valenciana For the main course, dishes of meat and fish are served. According to FSU Valencia instructor Leda Pedelini, most of Spain´s

rice comes from Valencia, so naturally the city is famous for its rice dishes. Paella is probably the most well-known of these— after all, some call Valencia the city of paella.

This social dish, made to be shared between two or more people, has several variations.

Paella Valenciana, named after the city, is the most common. It is made with chicken and/or rabbit, sweet pepper, tomatoes, olive oil, and green beans, all on top of Spanish rice colored yellow by saffron and other spices. Paella can also be made with seafood and squid ink, which turns the rice black. There is even a paella, made with noodles instead of rice, called fideau. This creation came about when a fisherman had to improvise to provide food for his whole crew.

Following the main course is dessert, which could be pastries, custard, or ice cream.

Bread usually accompanies the meal, as well as wine or a beer, and of course there is almost Horchata always more coffee at the end.

bread and held together by a toothpick.

Aside from the perpetual option of coffee, horchata is another available beverage offered all day but usually saved for la merienda. Horchata is a sweet liquid that looks like milk but is made from the tiger nut (a tuber) and is usually served with a sweet bread called fartón.

“I´m not a milk person, so I was hesitant to try it,” says Kathleen Keenan, a summer 2015 student. “I was surprised by how sweet it was, but it tastes better with the fartón.”

La cena

Dinner

Finally, dinner comes around at 10 p.m.

If you try to eat much earlier, you will be the only one on the restaurant scene. Many restaurants don’t even open or start preparing food until 9 p.m. The final meal of the day is also a light one because it is eaten so late.

As with most meals late in the day, dinner is generally accompanied by wine and other alcoholic beverages. Agua de Valencia has become especially popular later in the day. The cocktail is a mixture of

La merienda

Snack

After the oh-so-famous siesta, there is another snack time from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. once people get off work. Tapas are a famous Spanish food usually eaten during this time. There are a variety of these small dishes meant to be shared between f r i e n d s.

S o m e tapas include croquettas de jamon (ham tucked inside fried balls of potatoes), and patatas bravas (fried potatoes drizzled with tomato sauce and aioli).

Sometimes tapas are meats and cheeses or other delicacies piled on a slice of French

Finding fresh food at Valencia’s El Mercado Central; see page 38.

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Agua de Valencia champagne, orange juice, vodka, and gin. In the summer, people also enjoy sangria or its cousin, tinto de verano (red wine of summer).

You probably already know that Spaniards are night owls. Even after dinner is finished, the younger generation takes on the night, bar hopping and clubbing any day of the week. When you eventually make it home, which could possibly be around dawn, you may have the luxury of falling asleep for a few hours—only to wake up and start the meal process over again.

All photos on this page by Jennifer Knauf

Summer 2015 27

FSU Valencia more than doubles its enrollment in the past five years

Let the

D

uring the summer 2008 study abroad sessions, 198 students set out to study at the FSU center in Spain. All of the students were housed in one building, where they quickly became a closeknit group.

Now fast-forward seven years to the summer of 2015, when 367 students arrived at FSU Valencia. Instead of one building, students were housed in three apartment buildings: Garnet, Gold, and Seminole.

Growth has spiked dramatically at the center in the past two years.

In the academic year from the fall 2014 semester through the summer 2015 sessions, 679 students studied at FSU Valencia, up from the year before when 529 students studied at the center—and up dramatically from years before that. For example, from the years 2000 through 2010, annual enrollment hovered steadily between 250 to 300 students per academic year.

There are many reasons to study abroad, and choosing a location may not always be the easiest decision a student will ever make.

But the word is out that the Valencia study center provides students with great weather, beautiful beaches, delicious food, and gorgeous scenery for those Instagram photos.

“There are a number of reasons why I chose to study abroad in Valencia, language and location being two big ones,” 2015 student Kathleen Keenan says. “I had studied Spanish in high school and college and was

numbers talk

By Claudia Gonzalez

Photo by Claudia Gonzalez

Program Director Ignacio Messana and his staff work hard to make sure students succeed and enjoy themselves while in Valencia.

28 Summer 2015

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excited to finally put my Spanish to the test.

It ended up being a great decision.”

Program Director Ignacio Messana and his staff were as surprised as anyone at the dramatic growth.

“We didn’t know that the program would become so popular so fast,” Messana says.

“We didn’t have any specific goal in mind of growing to a certain number.”

Messana mentions two main factors that contributed to FSU Valencia’s expansion.

“One is that our colleagues in the International Programs office in Tallahassee do a wonderful recruiting job, both for the freshman students and for the broad curriculum students, including people like the ones that recruit for Editing, Writing and Media,” Messana says.

“Point two: We know it has been word of mouth. That is, the students who go back speak well about our program, and that means many of the students want to come here for that reason,” he says.

Clearly, studying at FSU Valencia is more popular than ever. But with such success come some logistical challenges.

“The same problems arise with anything that has high volume,” says David Lanza, a PA in summer 2015, summer 2009, and spring 2009—as well as one of the students who studied in Valencia in spring 2008.

Lanza, who has first-hand experience of the dramatic growth, gives an example.

“You have a lot of students who need to do a lot of different things,” Lanza says. “We have six PA’s. We take students to the doctor almost every single day, and that changed because it used to be a once a week thing, and now there are just more students.”

From coordinating daily doctor visits to organizing field trips for 367 students, FSU Valencia staff members have had their hands full, not just during summer 2015, but also throughout the 2014-2015 academic year.

“I used to know the name of every student, and now that’s impossible,” Messana says.

Such enrollment growth has also required logistical changes. For instance, the PAs used to staff the front reception desks of the apartment buildings during daytime hours.

But during summer 2015, the front reception desks of each building were staffed by local Valencians.

In addition to staff changes, field trips have also required some tweaks. Instead of all students following the same itinerary on the summer Madrid trip, for example, students were divided into two groups and went to different places each day.

With all of this growth, you might think that staff members would be discouraged or overwhelmed. This, however, is not the case.

“Yes, we have noticed this increase so much that it has affected the staff, faculty, courses, classrooms, housing (of course), and assistants in the different offices,” says Alicia Martinez, associate director of FSU Valencia.

“But we are super happy with this increase and happy to be able to give the opportunity to many other students coming through FSU to experience this beautiful study abroad program.”

Like Martinez, Messana is pleased that the program is so popular, and he is quick to

credit his colleagues for the center’s success.

“It is a wonderful achievement of FSU Valencia as a team, not of mine only. As a team, we are very proud.”

Moreover, Messana and his staff are determined to keep the quality of the program high for each student who studies at FSU Valencia.

“If students leave here feeling like they’ve learned a lot and at the same time they’ve enjoyed a lot, that’s the best feeling,” he says.

"If students leave here feeling like they´ve learned a lot and at the same time they’ve enjoyed a lot, that´s the best feeling."

— Program Director Ignacio Messana

Top left: While visiting the Valley of the Fallen during the 2015 summer session B, one half of the entire student group meets for a picture.

Photo by Emily Larson

Top right: The rest of the students visit Valley of the Fallen on a different day and pose for the same photograph.

Photo by Ryanne Doumet

Bottom center: The entire fall semester class of 2005 during a trip to Cordoba.

Photo courtesy of Melissa Claessens

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Summer 2015 29

Swing dancing

the

night away Story and photos by Erica Pope

Kathleen Keenan and Corbin Ryan participate in one of the swing dancing performances, which are held every Sunday night near FSU’s Valencia study center.

Flamenco is just one form of dance that can be found in Spain. Swing dancing performances are held every Sunday near the Torres de Serrano, and they typically involve around 20 to 30 swing dancers and people who are watching the dancers.

The music ranges from older jazz music to more modern music and doesn´t have any lyrics. The event allows Valencians and tourists alike to let loose and enjoy judgment-free dancing.

“I actually learned how to swing dance in Valencia from walking by the dancers one Sunday night,” FSU senior Kenzie

Hendrix says. “It was really random but also really fun.”

Many other musicians and dancers — violinists and fire dancers, for example — perform in Valencia at night, and can be found in the plazas near the FSU study center, such as the Plaza de la Virgen.

FYAs from page 4 The housing system varies from study center to study center. While FYA students in Panama enjoy living in their own house, those at the Valencia, Florence, and London centers are housed in apartments. For example, in Valencia the FYAs are spread out between the two FSU-owned buildings, Garnet and Gold.

These study centers become home to students. It is not only a place to hold their belongings or lay their head at night; it is a space that feels safe and secure.

Emily Larson, a Valencia FYA, says, “I love to travel, but Photo by Rachel Townsend whenever I am near the end of FYAs reminisce about their favorite memories at a local cafe. Clockwise from lower left: Asha my trips, it is such a relief to Jackson, Charles Evers, Dylan Geller, Victoria Oesterle, and Julianne Mahoney. get back here, to Valencia. This “What was really helpful was that I am apartment has pretty much been my safe months forces students to become comfortable in situations they would not normally in a program with about 200 American stuplace for the last 11 months.” dents,” Mackie says. “So, I can go outside Studying abroad for a year changes a have to deal with in the U.S. While culture shock may occur when stu- and get my fair share of the Spanish culture, person. Going into the experience, the student may not know anything about the host dents engage with a culture dissimilar from and if I am not feeling up to it the next day, country´s culture or even speak the lan- their own while traveling or studying abroad, my building is like a little slice of America just chilling there.” guage. But living in a different country for 12 they do not have to go through it alone.

30 Summer 2015

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Students who were in Valencia during the 2010 World Cup will always remember the celebration when Spain won the title.

Photo courtesy of FSU IP

Anniversaries from page 8 an idea, the Florence gala dinner will be hosted in the Palazzo Borghese, and the London dinner will be hosted in the London Transport Museum.

“We are organizing visits to local museums, special wine tastings, cooking lessons, and even a tour of some of the local artisans,” Capitani says. The Florence program has also scheduled a trip to Siena for one of the days.

“These events are primarily about the alumni and giving them the chance to celebrate with us as we recognize the amount of time our study centers have been providing students the opportunity to study abroad,” says Michelle Campbell, marketing representative for FSU’s International Programs (IP).

“We want them to reconnect as well as reflect upon their experience in these cities as FSU students.”

Little did anyone realize in 1957 that FSU would one day send roughly 1,600 students abroad every year. “We now have the four study centers that we operate year around, and we have close to 20 other locations around the world that we offer summer only programs,” says Dr. Jim Pitts, director of IP. “So, we’ve had an enlarged interest in studying abroad and different areas of the world to study in.”

Looking to the future, International Programs hopes to keep expanding.

“We would like to examine the possibility of doing another type of study center in either Asia or Africa,” Pitts says. “Asia is certainly an attractive location in terms of the Pacific Rim and commerce, as well as a representation of the world’s populations. As it relates to Africa, we have a lot of students in the U.S. and at FSU who trace their roots to Africa, and I think it would be good to give those students an opportunity to learn more about the culture of Africa.”

FSU has consistently been ranked in the top 20 of U.S. study abroad programs by the Institute of International Education, yet IP is always looking for ways to make the programs more attractive and accessible to students.

“We would like to certainly make it more affordable and attract more students because I think studying abroad is an essential element of a 21st century education,” Pitts says. “We would like to provide more scholarships and generate the funds to allow that.”

Choosing to study abroad can be a lifechanging decision that not a lot of students get to experience. Pitt himself regrets not having the opportunity to study

abroad. “I did teach abroad in the London program though, and I saw how it changed the lives of students,” he says. “And it also broadened my own understanding of other cultures in the world. So I’m very passionate in trying to encourage students to do it.”

FSU tries to make it easier for students to study abroad by focusing on scholarships and by finding interesting places to expand to. If you decide to study abroad, you can rest assured that you will be part of a long history of students and will participate in one of the top-ranked programs in the country.

“I really enjoy seeing the impact that studying abroad has on students as they have their first-world perspective broadened and they come back with a new understanding of global issues,” Pitts says.

FSU anniversary events

“We would like to certainly make it more affordable and attract more students because I think studying abroad is an essential element of a 21st century education.”

— International Programs Director Jim Pitts

London’s 45th: January 21-23, 2016 Florence’s 50th: February 25-27, 2016 Valencia’s 20th: January 2017 Panama’s 60th: February 2017

To RSVP, contact FSU International Programs Phone: 850-644-3272 Toll-free: 800-374-8581 Fax: 850-644-8817 Email: fsuipanniversary@gmail.com

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Summer 2015 31

Gerber from page 7

them as students in the FSU Valencia program. “They all three have the travel bug— “It has made me a better teacher,” says like me,” Gerber says. Currently, his oldest Gerber. “I try to give back as much as I re- daughter works in Africa with refugees, his ceive. I still feel indebted to this program. I middle daughter teaches at an elementary love IP.” school in Tallahassee, and the youngest lives Gerber has enjoyed soaking up the Valen- in Richmond, Virginia. cian lifestyle. The café culture is something Gerber’s career has yielded five awards he instantly became fond of. He sees the ap- for outstanding teaching at FSU. Initiated by peal of sitting outside, grabbing a bite, and positive student evaluations, it is clear that he connecting with friends. He also enjoys walk- stands out among other professors. ing around—being able to see everything “It is a lovely honor,” says Gerber. “But and to admire the city. that’s not the main reason I teach.”

Gerber has three grown daughters, all He enjoys engaging his students—getting of whom have been to Valencia, two of them out of the classroom and into the city.

He not only takes students around Valencia but also to local flamenco shows. He aims to provide a cultural experience.

Gerber has accomplished quite a bit. Attempting to sum up his entire career in just one article has been just that—an attempt.

It feels impossible to sum up everything. He Larry Gerber, front right, and students from his 2015 seems to be loved and courses, visit the Miguelete Tower, which tops the Valencia admired by all.

Cathedral.

All article photos courtesy of Larry Gerber He has been in Va-

lencia since the birth of the program. In many ways, he has become one of the faces of the program.

“The very idea that we are all interconnected—we are all part of this greater whole,” says Gerber while finishing his soda.

“We must be global citizens. If I can display that through music—wonderful.”

ing his fingers to keep count of everyone he mentions. “In my apartment building, I know all my neighbors, I know all their kids. I know the butcher, the pastry maker, and the guy who runs that restaurant on the corner. Here, you know everyone; everyone knows you.”

The powerful sense of community Biringer always talks about is exactly what students experience in his Kingdom of Valencia class.

This is typically the only 4000-level course in the Valencia program and is reserved for Spanish majors, minors, or heritage speakers.

Biringer leads students on a journey all over the region to speak with locals, see popular culture, hear music, taste food, and everything else that encompasses the Valencian identity.

“I want [students] to act like they’ve been here before. You’re a guest, you are privileged to live here,” says Biringer. “I want them to respect the culture.”

Both men are more than just professors; they are mentors. They mold young minds through direct instruction and as inspiring role models. In fact, both take great satisfaction from their students’ success.

“There’s no greater feeling than when the

pupil surpasses the master,” says Biringer, beaming with joy.

This past spring, one of Biringer’s former students earned her Ph.D. in political science from Duke University. Although she was no longer his student after the Valencia program, she was still learning from him, always asking questions and seeking his counsel.

“I felt like I was coaching her from the sidelines,” says Biringer. “And there’s no greater feeling than that.”

Nordlund too takes pride in mentoring students. A bright pupil who matured and flourished under Dr. No’s tutelage earned an internship at the White House.

“When you teach someone, a young adult, and they come out of their study abroad experience as a sharper, clearer person and they get one of the most difficult internships on the planet, that’s huge for me,” Nordlund says.

Biringer and Nordlund genuinely care about their students, and they do not take for granted their opportunity to inspire ambitious, young adults.

Nordlund put it best: “They teach me that what I do matters.”

Ex-pats from page 13 the U.S. Consulate in Valencia, where his duties ranged from diplomacy to naval support to regional security protocol to public outreach. Currently, he serves on the Fulbright Commission for educational exchanges between the U.S. and Spain.

In spite of Nordlund’s Swiss-army-knife range of talents and interests, his heart belongs to teaching, as evidenced by his decision to leave the State Department.

“The State Department told me I had to choose between my academic interests or government interests and I said ‘Well, give me two minutes and I’ll clean out my office.’” A day later Nordlund was done with politics and instead was dedicating his life’s work to his students.

Upon meeting Biringer, you would know right away that he is the guy who knows everyone not because he works in government surveillance but because he’s just that likable.

Biringer has not just assimilated to life in Valencia; he has embraced it.

“I know all my neighbors,” Biringer says us32 Summer 2015

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Gerber in FSU’s 2014 production “Street Scene,” performing the role of Abraham Kaplan.

Food and Society from page 11 Ángeles brings 30 years of medical experience and a strong vocational component to the table when he teaches about food and society. He showcases his passion and willingness to help students develop a true understanding of the concepts. Every class is

unpredictable and he motivates students to engage in the culture.

“He brings a new aspect to the classroom that other teachers don’t,” Wells says. “He gets everyone involved without them even knowing, which is key for kids who don’t like to participate — you can see how much he cares for his students in every class.”

Whether tasting foreign foods or learn-

ing about the wines of Europe, each class is its own adventure, and students come away with lessons that stay with them for the rest of their lives.

“Students come out with academic knowledge,” Ángeles says. “They come out respecting other cultures and civilizations and, if things were done well, they come out having learned a little bit more about themselves.”

Dietary concerns or questions? María Sierra answers them for you What precautions does the program take?

On the housing form, students must put down any special needs or dietary requests that they may have. The school further discusses specific accommodations during orientation and will send a message to each student with dietary restrictions before a group dinner to ensure that they are able to eat.

What are some options for vegetarians?

In the last 15 years, Spain has become more open with different types of foods. Before you couldn’t find tofu, soy milk, or broccoli; however now there are specialty shops that students can go to. Students have the option to cook at their apartments and can go to Mercado Central [the central market] to choose from a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables.

What problems do students typically encounter?

Photo courtesy of FSU International Programs

María Sierra, head of health care services, is always eager to help students.

During the first few days abroad, students are hesitant to try the Mediterranean diet and will sometimes feel ill. Make sure to give your body time to adjust, eat well, and get plenty of rest.

ter after jet lag and cultural shock. Keep in mind that in Valencia, you must pay for water individually at restaurants.

Is it safe to drink the tap water?

Jamón serrano [Serrano ham] is a type of dry-cured Spanish ham, which is generally served in thin slices, or occasionally diced. In Spain, students are always surprised to see legs of ham hanging from restaurants and shop windows; however it is completely safe to eat. All the restaurants and shops have a safety measure that they follow to carry this type of meat, so don’t be afraid to try it in your bocadillos [sandwiches] and other meals.

It is safe; however it is recommended that students drink bottled water during the first few days abroad to help them transition bet-

Is it safe to eat the dried ham?

What advice would you give to incoming students?

Photo by Sasha Polissky

The Mercado Central is a great place for students and instructors to buy locally grown produce and to interact with market vendors.

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Students tend to seek out familiar food like pizza and hamburgers while abroad.

Take advantage of the Hispanic diet.

Start out with some tapas [five starters and five main dishes] and work your way up to the fish, meat, and other dietary options Spain has to offer. In Valencia, you will find that the meals are plain in flavor, typically substituting olive oil for sauce. This will allow you to fully embrace the flavor and immerse yourself in the Valencian diet.

– Interview by Sasha Polissky Summer 2015 33

Capturing café culture Text and photos by Rachel Townsend

Going counterclockwise from top left: A classic Spanish dish FSU students tend to love includes croquetas, patatas bravas, and a glass of sangria.

Churros con chocolaté is a delicious treat that all must try when visiting Spain.

Eating at cafés in Valencia always calls for a great view, such as overlooking the Valencia Cathedral.

Make sure you know what you´re ordering in Spain. "Small fried fish" does not mean the same thing as it does in America.

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Modern-day Water Court has long, storied history

By Joseph Quintana

C

ameras and selfie sticks are everywhere as a crowd swarms the Apostles Gate of Valencia’s cathedral every Thursday at noon to be a part of history. The crowd quiets as a bailiff wielding a scepter-like weapon summons nine men adorned in black robes.

Suddenly, court is in session.

The Tribunal de las Aguas de la Vega de Valencia, or simply the Water Court, functions as the oldest existing justice institution in Europe, dating back to the times of AlAndalus (9th-13th centuries).

Surprisingly, the Water Court is not made up of lawyers; rather it is composed of nine farmers who are democratically elected, each representing a different irrigation community.

They are tasked with settling conflicts and disputes regarding the use of irrigation water users in Valencia. But because of improved irrigation technology, there are not many complaints.

However, when there is a complaint, the proceedings are carried out orally and publicly. Considering the backdrop of the cathedral, the robes, and the fact that the tribunal is carried out completely in Valencian, you feel as if you should double-check the date to make sure you are not in the Middle Ages.

Court members deliberate amongst themselves and render a verdict immediately, so if you intend to catch this spectacle, you had better not be late.

Although the court may seem antiquated,

Election from page 25 regular guy,” Ribó said in a statement.

By August, there was even a video game featuring Ribó bicycling around the city “while dodging obstacles on his way towards the City Hall,” according to Costa News, a regional newspaper.

The new changes are clearly pointed and symbolic, including opening the doors of City Hall from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., reserving one day a week for one-on-one meetings to receive requests or complaints, and allowing dogs to ride the subway.

While these new policies may give an appearance of City Hall being more open to

Photo by Ashley Tressel

Crowds gather at the Apostles Gate of the Valencia Cathedral every Thursday to witness the Water Court’s meeting, but hearings are not that common. its judgment holds as much value and authority as any Spanish civil court, as its existence is protected by the Spanish constitution.

The survival of the Water Court is a testament to Valencia’s dedication to honor and maintain its history.

the public, the coalition has yet to discuss more pressing city matters, such as the rising unemployment rate, particularly among youths. However, Ribó has announced that there will soon be an audit of city finances.

The shift from conservative to progressive has also taken place on a bigger scale.

“The city of Valencia and the region of Valencia are certainly becoming more leftist and nationalist,” says Nordlund.

Ximo Puig, leader of the Socialist Party of the Valencian Country (PSPV-PSOE), the main opposition party in Valencia since 1995, was recently elected president of the Generalitat Valenciana (of the Valencian Community). The PSPV-PSOE is the Valencian branch of the Spanish Socialist Work-

ers’ Party (PSOE), a social-democratic and federalist political party in Spain.

This political change prompts questions of whether education systems will change (most schools in the area are Catholic), whether trade relations will be affected, and even whether local language will be affected.

Under Barberá, the local government emphasized the use of the local language (Valencian), but it is conceivable that the new leadership would lessen that emphasis.

So far, the lack of solidarity within the new ruling party is the main cause of worry among some Valencians. But Valencians are hoping that Compromís will come through on its promise to “bring about the change that [this] society needs.”

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Summer 2015 35

come across another ancient building” Betters says.

“The city itself just seemed so historic and beautiful, and it was incredible to be able to walk the streets and see that close-up.”

The group also received a guided tour of the Alcazar de Segovia, a medieval fortress once home to kings and queens of Spain.

“I really enjoyed the castle,” says Kathryn Kane, an FSU junior majoring in art.

“The guided tour taught me interesting tidbits of information like that there are golden pine cones decorating the ceiling and who the murals were inspired by.”

But, the day had to end, and everyone boarded buses for the return to Madrid, where they would await the adventures that were in store for them the next day.

Students were eager to Photo by Lauren Thompson explore Spain’s capital, and The gigantic stone cross is the first thing a visitor sees the day started with a guidwhen arriving at the Valley of the Fallen. ed tour of the city center.

The guides led the groups while explaining Field trips from page 19 the history and importance of various places, and the tour ended where many had been After that short visit, the students and anticipating since the beginning, the Prado other program members again boarded their Art Museum. buses, which made their way toward Sego“Seeing the masterpieces of Velasquez, via, located in the Old Castile region. Upon Goya, El Greco, Rubens, and Rafael was entering the town, the group was met with a beyond incredible, as was seeing the Garden 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct. This grand of Earthly Delights by Bosch and Las Meninas marvel stood nearly 100 feet off of the by Velasquez,” says Betters, referring to the ground, with beautiful archways spanning priceless treasures housed at the Prado. the entire length.

Students even had a rare chance to see more works than usual "It's one thing to read about artists and by Pablo Picasso that were on loan to the their work, but it's another thing to see museum. Students also were encouraged to take it in person, observe the details, and a short walk to Reina just be in physical awe."

Sofia, a modern art mu -Kathryn Kane seum, which holds the works of Salvador Dali Perhaps the most interesting fact about and Picasso’s Guernica, seen by many as one the aqueduct is that its approximately 25,000 of greatest anti-war paintings in history. granite blocks are held together without any “Picasso is my favorite artist, and I was so mortar. A walk through Segovia gave every- happy to be able to see some of his famous one the opportunity to see even more sights. works,” Kane says. “Both museums are ex“I loved seeing the architecture of the city, tremely large so it was impossible to see and it felt like every five steps you would everything, but the tours showed us some 36 Summer 2015

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magnificent highlights. It´s one thing to read about artists and their work, but it’s another thing to see it in person, observe the details, and just be in physical awe.”

Students were given free time during the afternoon to explore the city on their own, and some headed farther into the shopping district to pick up some new clothes or souvenirs, while some walked to Retiro Park to take in some of the green spaces of the city.

Others simply wandered around seeing what the city had to offer and finding themselves a little lost, before heading back to the hotel.

Close to 7 p.m., students gathered in the hotel’s lobby, dressed for a nice planned dinner and a flamenco show at Tablao Restaurante Las Carboneras, about a 15-minute walk from the hotel. After the dinner plates had been cleared, the live band strummed up their guitars and the performers’ emotions flooded the room.

“I was very impressed with the flamenco show,” says Samantha Arvin, an FSU sophomore majoring in communication disorders.

“I tried tap dancing when I was younger and [flamenco] was like tap dancing on steroids. I was so impressed.”

The four dancers were dressed in a variety of outfits all in traditional style.

“Only a couple of the people are the same

Photo by Lauren Thompson

Flamenco is not just about the movements and the music; the dancer’s emotion adds to everything.

Photo curtesy of Melissa Claessens

Catching some waves in Valencia, Frances Beacom, a student with the FSU program, is one of many who tried out surfing while at the beach.

Surf’s up!

Photo by Rachel Townsend

The Segovia Cathedral was built between 1525 and 1577 and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. each time with different types of dress and dance,” according to Alicia Martínez, the program’s associate director, “so each semester the students never get the same experience as another.”

After the passionate show, some students went out to discover more of Madrid at night, while others, exhausted from a long day in the brutal Spanish sun, made their way back to the hotel.

The next morning started the final day of the trip, and students and instructors boarded the buses for the trip to Spain’s former capital, Toledo.

"It almost looked like a movie set or fairytale."

— Melissa Betters “It honestly felt like going through a time machine and winding up in an intricate, stone medieval city,” Betters says.

“The entire city looked like a place where time had stopped—the cobbled streets, the stone buildings, the winding, narrow paths and roads, the soaring steeples of the different churches and temples. It almost looked like a movie set or a fairytale.”

Before entering Toledo, the buses stopped on a hill overlooking the city, and students reacted with awe and excitement.

“The panoramic view was my favorite part,” Arvin says. “I knew that we were in Spain, but it reminded me of Tuscany in Italy. It was very quaint, and I love quaint.

After leaving the business of Madrid, it was refreshing to be in the rustic countryside. Plus, I am always one for a good view.”

While on a walking tour of the city, the groups stopped at two churches and one synagogue.

“Toledo was the first place in Spain I’ve been where the different kinds of churches were preserved and celebrated for what they were,” Kane says.

Even though only a few hours were spent in Toledo, Betters, Kane, and Arvin say they would love to return. Upon arriving back at the study center in Valencia, all of the students were tired and dreading the return to classes the following morning, but the trip had all been worth it.

“During Spanish classes we were always taught about the culture and history in Spain, but to actually see and experience their daily lives firsthand is an experience that you can only get abroad,” Allston says.

Spain has more to offer than what stereotypes may lead people to believe. It is a nation with a rich culture and history that can only be discovered through exploring the country. Only then can you discover the real Spain.

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Water activities around Valencia

When you hear the phrase “water sports,” Valencia might not be the first place that comes to mind, but there is a lot to do on the Mediterranean Sea. Here are just a few of the different aquatic activites offered that the Valencia program took students to try out in summer 2015.

Surfing

Valencia is not Hawaii or California in regard to wave size, but the waves on the Mediterranean do have something to offer. It is a great place for people trying out the sport for the first time to test the waters and get the basic hang of the sport.

Swimming

If you are not one for more unique sports, there is always swimming. Valencia has several kilometers of coastline and water for swimming and jumping into waves, and this is one activity that every member of the family can enjoy.

Paddle boarding

Like surfing, the participant stands on a board (although the board is much smaller than a surfboard) and moves around the water with a paddle. This is an activity that can be done by novices just as well as experts.

— By Lauren Thomspon

Summer 2015 37

A walk through El Mercado Central

By Jennifer Knauf

I

f Consum, the main grocery store that Florida State study abroad students frequent, is like Winn Dixie, then El Mercado Central is similar to the Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia. A maze of shops fills a warehouse with food products from nuts and dried fruits to vegetables and meat.

Vendors take time to make beautiful displays of their products, only enhanced by the colorful produce. Freshly squeezed juice, or zumo, is often sold for a euro to reel customers in. Freshness is a huge selling point in the central market. Vendors even keep live snails and eels for customers to choose.

However, a trip to the market is not for those with weak stomachs. While markets in the United States sell meats ready-to-eat, El Mercado Central uses all parts of the animal in its counter displays. Not only do sausage and ham legs hang over countertops, but be prepared to see dead fish, animal hooves, and even animal heads.

“Personally I didn’t find it unsettling but even if you think you would, is till suggest going to experience a traditional part of daily Valencian life,” says Lauren Thompson, an FSU senior studying abroad in summer 2015.

Photos from Wikipedia Commons

A last hurrah for (and with) David Lanza, a veteran PA

Editor´s note: David Lanza, originally from Cocoa Beach, Florida, graduated from Florida State University in 2009. He earned his law degree from FSU in 2012 and then his Master of Laws in Taxation from the University of Florida in 2015.

Lanza is starting a new job in fall 2015 as an attorney for Ernst & Young in San Francisco.

Sadly, this means that he will no longer be returning to Valencia, Spain, as a program assistant (PA) in the future.

Nomadic Noles: When did you first become a program assistant? How long have you been a PA and why did you decide to become one?

David: Originally I studied abroad in Spain in the spring of 2008 and came back. I decided to come back initially to practice my Spanish and to visit Spain. My family is in the north

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[of Spain], so I came here to kind of to be away from them. I liked it a lot—it seemed like a great opportunity to come back and try to be a PA. I applied for [the position] and I ended up being a PA in spring 2009. They asked me to stay an extra 6-week session because they had 120 students at that time, so I stayed and I was a PA during summer session 1 2009. I came back this semester [summer 2015] because I had the summer open before I start working. I was talking to Ignacio and he invited me to come back this summer.

NN: What do you like most about being a PA at FSU Valencia?

David: Probably the interaction that you get with the staff, students, and area. There is a little more added responsibility and that’s always nice to be able to take advantage of

Insta Spain Students in the summer 2015 program took to Instagram to highlight their adventures.

Follow @nomadicnoles for up-to-date info about studying abroad and to keep up with the student-produced magazine.

Don’t be scared, it’s just arroz negro! #fsuip #fsuvalencia (By Claudia Gonzalez)

Holy Toledo! #fsuip #fsuvalencia (By Sasha Polissky)

The Feria de Julio Ferris wheel peeks out from the famous Rose Bridge #fsuip #fsuvalencia (By Milagros Aburto)

What better way to end a summer night than in the old riverbed of Valencia overlooking the Feria de Julio? #fsuip #fsuvalencia (By Rachel Townsend)

instagram.com/nomadicnoles/ that and rise to the challenge. At the same time you also have a lot more interaction with the general populous and culture by necessity.

You have to go do doctor visits—that’s not really something you learn as a student.

You have to talk to business owners, you have to help professors find stuff, you set up excursions; you learn more about the area because you have to, in order to tell the students about those type of things.

Simultaneously, it’s a great opportunity.

It’s a great way to familiarize yourself with the region.

NN: As an experienced PA, do you feel a little bit like the unofficial “head” PA? Do the other PAs come to you whenever they have a question or concern?

David: Not really. I mean, I’m just another PA. There are a couple of things I do that I ask them to help me with. I delegate sometimes but not because I’m in any position of authority. I think it’s just because I know Alicia and she asks me to tell them to do other stuff.

NN: Are you planning to come back after summer 2015 or will you be officially retired as a PA once this semester ends?

David: No, I don’t think I’ll ever be back [as a PA]. It was kind of a freak coincidence that I was here for this summer. I start working in September and I was working before this, so I just had summer off. That’s why I’m here.

NN: So you were glad to come back?

David: Yeah, there’s a reason I came. I love Valencia.

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David Lanza

Summer 2015 39

About the contributors Milagros Aburto Aburto is a Florida State University (FSU) senior majoring in English with a concentration in editing, writing, and media (EWM) and minoring in communications. She was born in Lima, Peru, but moved to sunny South Florida when she was 10 years old. She is passionate about traveling, music, and film. Upon graduation, she will pursue a career in editing or desktop publishing. She aims to never stop learning and to continue to discover her talents.

Claudia Gonzalez Gonzalez, from Coral Springs, Florida, graduated from FSU at the end of summer 2015 with a major in English (EWM concentration)

and a minor in communications. After graduation, she is being forced into the real world, where she has hopes of returning to Spain to teach English. Some of her favorite things include cats, sleeping, and traveling.

Kathleen Keenan Originally from Vero Beach, Florida, Keenan is a senior and she will graduate from FSU in December 2015. She is majoring in English with a concentration in EWM and minoring in communications and political science. Her love for reading started at a young age, and now, with graduation approaching, she hopes to have a future in publishing. Her perfect day starts with a Dunkin Donuts iced coffee, followed by reading a good book on the beach.

Jennifer Knauf Born in Orlando, Florida, Knauf is majoring in English (EWM). She is a junior at FSU and hopes to one day edit books.

Sarah Polissky Polissky, who grew up in South Florida, is a senior at FSU majoring in English (EWM) and minoring in business. She aspires to work in a marketing or public relations firm, where she can put her creativity to use. She enjoys traveling, photography, and spending time with her loved ones—especially her adorable puppy.

Erica Pope Pope is a junior at FSU from Gainesville, Florida. (Go Noles!) She is majoring in English (EWM) and minoring in sociology of law, and she also is pursuing a certificate in leadership. She has dreams of becoming a lawyer and traveling the world along the way.

She has a passion for good books, Chipotle, and puppies.

Joseph Quintana Quintana is a senior at FSU majoring in English (EWM) and minoring in film studies. He grew up in Miami and his future aspirations range from writing for an online news publication to writing and directing for the silver screen.

Corbin Ryan Hailing from the city of Tampa, Florida, Ryan is a junior at FSU. Deviating from his creative writing concentration for his English major, he decided to give journalism a try by working on Nomadic Noles. His passions include reading, cooking, and surfing.

This area behind Valencia’s cathedral is where the weekly Tribunal de las Aguas de la Vega is held.

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Katherine Sinner Sinner is a senior at FSU majoring in English (EWM), while minoring in communications.

Her roots are in St. Petersburg, Florida. She enjoys a good book, her pug puppy, and the

Students in the summer 2015 Editing, Writing, and Media Program visited Valencia’s La Beneficencia and found a break from the July heat in the center’s inner courtyard. beautiful beaches of her hometown. Through her time in Europe, she discovered a borderline obsession with any pistachio-flavored dessert. Her longterm passion and goal is to one day work for a fashion magazine.

Sarah Tatum Originally from Orlando, Florida, Tatum is a senior and she will graduate from FSU in December 2015 with an English major (EWM) and a minor in international affairs. While her hobbies include filmmaking and photography, she would like to pursue a career in investigative journalism upon graduation.

Lauren Thompson Thompson is a senior from Ocala, Florida, majoring in English (EWM) at FSU. After graduating, Thompson hopes to work for a travel magazine and travel the world writing. She enjoys going to new places, adventure sports, and curling up with a good book and a hot cup of tea.

Rachel Townsend Townsend is a junior at FSU majoring in English (EWM) and minoring in environmental studies. She has lived in Tallahassee, Florida, since the age of 5, and she aspires to write for a nature magazine such as National Geographic. She thoroughly enjoys immersing herself in the outdoors and playing with nearly every dog to cross her path.

Ashley Tressel Tressel is an FSU junior majoring in English (EWM) and media/ communication studies.. She has interned in the Executive Office of the Governor (Tallahassee) and worked as a freelance writer for Carbonated.tv. In fall 2015, she will be a journalism intern for The Borgen Project. She hopes to be a foreign correspondent or news editor. Her favorite city in Europe so far is Brussels, Belgium.

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Advisors: Susan Hellstrom and Jack Clifford Student editors: Kathleen Keenan and Ashley Tressel Student design assistant: Sasha Polissky Summer 2015 41

What will I miss the most about Valencia?

“

Taking two steps out my front door and being instantly surrounded by century-old buildings is one of the things I will miss most about living in Valencia, Spain.

– Rachel Townsend

“

I will miss the castles that had unbelievable views of the Mediterranean.

– Claudia Gonzalez

”

“

”

Just a short metro ride away from the study center is the beach and the beautiful Mediterranean Sea, and this is one of the many things that I will miss about our time in Valencia.

– Lauren Thompson

”

“

I’m going to miss the unforgettable adventures we had including dorking out on the top of the Torres de Serranos with our daggers.

– Sasha Polissky

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“

No single adventure or monument compares to the unforgettable people I’ve been blessed to meet.

– Joseph Quintana

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”

I will miss walking around the streets of Valencia and marveling at the beauty and history of this city.

– Erica Pope

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Of all the wonderful things about Spain, I will miss the story-book like scenes the country has to offer.

– Corbin Ryan

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”

I’ll miss walking along the streets and encountering beautiful street art each day.

– Sarah Tatum

”

“

I will miss having the Torres de Serrano as my front door.

– Milagros Aburto

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What will I miss the most about Valencia?

“ “

I’ll miss the unbelievable architecture, palaces, and museums that are always just a short walk away.

– Katherine Sinner

I will miss the unique live entertainment you can find simply walking down the street, from music to magic.

– Jennifer Knauf

”

“

”

Text and photos by students in the summer 2015 magazine course

I will miss all of the crazy adventures and memories that brought us closer as a “family” that we shared while being abroad.

– Kathleen Keenan

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What I will miss the most is being surrounded by a neverending supply of delicious food.

– Ashley Tressel 44 Summer 2015

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”