MELBOURNE FASHION WEEK PROGRAM INSIDE
ISSUE 190 / 2019
F R E E
On the Move
hotnoods BÚN BÒ HUÊ´
Fancy a Phở? Phở-k that! It’s time to get spicy with our newest dish Bún Bò Huế (BBH). A spicy Vietnamese, beef noodle soup with a delicious, robust broth that packs so much flavour you’ll feel like you’re walking the streets of Hanoi.
LIMITED TIME ONLY!
Think you can handle the heat? Download and order through the Roll’d App (for FREE) and tell us how hot you want your #HOTNOODS! Available for a limited time only, exclusively through the Roll’d App. For more spicy information, please visit: www.rolld.com.au/bbh
it’s hot, it’s spicy and it’s free Score a BBH for free on your first order through the Roll’d App. Simply create an account on the Roll’d App, check your inbox for your unique code. Select your BBH and input your code at checkout. Enjoy your free #HOTNOODS. For slurping not sending…
CONTENTS
Hit Reset
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52
The Scoop Fashion News Behind the Curtain with UNIQLO Total Strangers with Angie McMahon Create Education Getting Louder Feature Call my Agent! Editorial Game Play Editorial Lay Over Hair & Beauty
PUBLISHER Furst Media Pty Ltd. Mycelium Studios Factory 1/10-12 Moreland Road Brunswick East VIC furstmedia.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Giulia Brugliera giulia@furstmedia.com.au DIGITAL EDITOR
FARRAH WEARS JULIET JONES SWEATSHIRT $149.95 Full shoot credits on page 42
Sasha Gattermayr sasha@furstmedia.com.au EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Maeve Kerr-Crowley, Nicole La Ruffa
From the Team Hi friends, It’s nice to be back. After a short hiatus, we’ve hit reset and are a lil’ bit excited to present to you this next issue of FJ. We’ve welcomed a new Managing Editor and Digital Editor to the team, meaning you can expect to see some newness over the coming months. We won’t give too much away, but there’s a sneak peek on page 26 to get you started. We’ve again teamed up with the City of Melbourne as a media partner for
ADVERTISING
Melbourne Fashion Week. Flip to page 29 to study the program. Inside this issue, we also dive into denim sustainability with UNIQLO (pg 14), get to know Angie McMahon on a rather intimate level (pg 16) and road test the best and not-so-best products for jet-lagged skin (pg 52). It’s safe to say we’ve missed you. Until next time, The FJ team xx
Giulia Brugliera giulia@furstmedia.com.au Sasha Gattermayr sasha@furstmedia.com.au DESIGN & DIGITAL Ruby Furst ruby@furstmedia.com.au DISTRIBUTION distribution@furstmedia.com.au EDITORIAL INTERNS Christina Karras, Ruby Staley, Anthony Graetz, Tess Macallan, Indah Dwyer, Mariah Papadopoulos, Reema Alfouir DESIGN INTERN Sophia Temporali
SARAH WEARS YSL SUIT $495 FROM MADAM VIRTUE & CO. VOODOO HOSIERY TIGHTS $19.95 KITTE NECKLACES POA, POPPY LISSIMAN SNAPPER SAC IN BLUE CROC $155, POPPY LISSIMAN SPEED LIMIT SUNGLASSES $95 Photographer – Tracey Lee Hayes Models – Zoe At FiveTwenty Model Management, Sarah At People Agency Full shoot credits on page 34
ZOE WEARS CHRISTIAN LACROIX SUIT $1295 FROM MADAM VIRTUE & CO., CAMILLA AND MARC LEXA ZIP TURTLENECK $199, VOODOO HOSIERY TIGHTS $19.95, POPPY LISSIMAN SNAPPER SAC IN YELLOW CROC $155, POPPY LISSIMAN SKINNY DEMON SUNGLASSES $95 KITTE EARRINGS AND NECKLACE POA, MELISSA JACKSON HEADPIECE POA
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FASHIONJOURNAL.COM.AU @FASHIONJOURNALMAGAZINE /FASHIONJOURNALMAG
© 2019 FURST MEDIA PTY LTD. No part may be reproduced without the consent of the copyright holder.
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NEWS
The Scoop
Vesna Collections Based in Melbourne, Vesna is a label that seeks to embody romance and elegance across its entire women’s offering. The label prioritises effortless yet refined silhouettes, paying careful attention to detail – think textured panels, silk blends and soft merino wools. Vesna’s current collection includes sophisticated knitwear for cold winter days, plus versatile designs that work just as well in or out of the office. Looking ahead to summer, the brand is also working on a locally-made clothing range created entirely from sustainably-sourced fabrics. You can shop the current collection online. VESNACOLLECTIONS.COM.AU
Loris
Calvin Klein
Melbourne-based knitwear label, Loris, is on a mission to bring a bit of tender loving care back into the fashion industry. Operating as a onewoman show, every jumper, cardigan, dress and crop top is knitted by hand by the label’s founder. No two pieces are ever made exactly the same, ensuring every design feels as special as it looks. Loris also operates with sustainability in mind, with made-to-order creations and small product drops, utilising upcycled second-hand yarn.
Calvin Klein is taking its #MYCALVINS campaign to the next level with customisable undies. The #MYCALVINS Custom range features the brand’s classic men’s trunks and women’s briefs and bralettes. Colours span white, grey, black and a soft baby pink. Once you’ve chosen your style and colour, you can then personalise your piece with two emoji-style patches and a text slogan. The collection is available online in both standard and plus sizes.
LORISCLOTHING.COM.AU
CALVINKLEIN.COM.AU
Melbourne Fashion Week Melbourne Fashion Week is just weeks away, and this year’s program is worth getting excited about. Organisers have amped up the event’s focus on sustainability following its carbon neutral certification last year, adding new upcyclingcentric workshops and runways. There’s also an emphasis on the city’s rich history and cultural diversity. As well as the much anticipated Town Hall runways, this year there will be shows in locations like Eureka Tower, Chinatown and the Melbourne City Baths. MFW.MELBOURNE.VIC.GOV.AU
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THE SIMPLIFICATION OF LEATHER GOODS STATU S A N X I E T Y. C OM . A U
NEWS
Sans Beast Sans Beast is well and truly earning its place in the hearts and wardrobes of the ethically conscious. Across the label’s range of signature leather-free bags and accessories, you’ll find a distinctly anti-fast fashion approach. Rather than following trends, the brand is committed to producing classic, future-ready styles without skimping on aesthetic and tactile touches. Its latest collection, The Afterglow of Mutiny, is inspired by the bravery it takes to fight for what you believe in. SANSBEAST.COM
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Assembly Label
MUJI
Status Anxiety
To support children’s charity Curing Homesickness, Assembly Label has released a limited edition line of minimalist T-shirts. The organisation was founded to help kids in hospital get home sooner by funding research and equipment. All proceeds from the sale of Assembly’s Homesick shirt, which features a subtle pink print, will be donated to the initiative. Those keen to get behind the cause can shop the men’s and women’s styles online and in store now.
MUJI stores are a slice of minimalist heaven in the world of shopping centre chaos. Now, the brand’s Chadstone store is getting an update, which comes with a lot more floor space. This will make it the biggest MUJI store in Australia with plenty more goodies inside, including MUJI Labo, a new garment capsule, a range of thoughtfully curated books, an embroidery station and a kids’ play area. The new store will also feature an Open MUJI space for workshops and exhibitions. Doors open at the end of August.
Status Anxiety has dropped its latest collection and it doesn’t disappoint. You’ll find some new standout styles, all in keeping with the brand’s commitment to beautiful, minimal leather goods that are perfect for everyday use. Status Anxiety is all about producing its widely-loved products in a conscious way, using natural, ethically-sourced materials and operating out of a small studio in Sydney. The new collection is available online.
ASSEMBLYLABEL.COM
MUJI.COM/AU
STATUSANXIETY.COM.AU
NEWS
Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion An exhibition dedicated to the one and only Cristóbal Balenciaga is hitting Bendigo Art Gallery this month. Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion centres on the designer’s extensive body of work, as well as his sweeping industry influence. Pieces made by Balenciaga himself in the ’50s and ’60s will be displayed alongside the work of his protégés, demonstrating the lasting impact of his innovative silhouettes. You’ll also find archival sketches, patterns and fabric samples. The exhibition will run August 17 to November 10. BENDIGOARTGALLERY.COM.AU/BALENCIAGA
Roll’d
Chusette
Mangkaja x Gorman
Turns out there is such thing as a free lunch. The good people at Roll’d are rolling out a new noodle soup, available for a (very) limited time. The Vietnamese restaurant’s Bún Bò Huế is made with beef, spice and all things nice. To celebrate the arrival of the aptly nicknamed #HOTNOODS, Roll’d is giving Aussies their first BBH for free. All you need to do is download the Roll’d App, choose your size and spice level, and nab your unique code.
After only seven months in business, Chusette is about to open its third store in Melbourne’s inner city. The socks and hosiery label is quickly building a name for itself thanks to its innovative production technology and premium fabrics. Chusette materials include a soft bamboo blend, cashmere and a thinner, mercerised cotton built for everyday wear. The line also includes products for men, women and little ones.
Gorman has collaborated with Indigenous artists for the first time ever, releasing a collection that took over two years to complete. A range of Gorman silhouettes have been updated with the work of five senior artists from Western Australia’s Mangkaja Arts Resource Agency: Ngarralja Tommy May, Sonia Kurarra, Daisy Japulija, Nada Tigila Rawlins and Lisa Uhl. Gorman will be donating funds from the sale of the collection to support Mangkaja Art Centre’s youth development programs.
ROLLD.COM.AU/BBH
CHUSETTE.COM
GORMANSHOP.COM.AU
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Istituto Italiano di Cultura Melbourne Standard language courses, conversation classes, Dante and Carpe Diem-Latin language course, Italian for Italians, and culture courses on different topics, private lessons, VCE and courses for children and young people.
Italian Language & Culture Courses 233 Domain Rd, South Yarra 3141 www.iicmelbourne.esteri.it 03 9866 5931
GOODS
Step Up Determined to improve the sustainability of its practices, global retailer UNIQLO is introducing new, eco-friendly ways of producing denim. Through extensive innovation and testing, these new methods are designed to reduce water waste and eliminate the use of harmful chemicals. Expect this greener, more ethical denim to roll out across the entire UNIQLO denim range. PHOTOGRAPHER – JESPER HEDE AT CUBED STUDIO STYLIST – JAM BAYLON
Top to bottom UNIQLO MEN'S SLIM FIT JEANS $59.90, UNIQLO WOMEN'S HIGH-RISE STRAIGHT JEANS $49.90 W
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UNIQLO.COM/AU
@UNIQLOAU
/UNIQLO.AU
A modern Australian icon, five vintages in the making.
This year’s vintage has finally arrived. Cheers to that!
www.fourpillarsgin.com.au | Don’t drink more, drink better.
FEATURE
Behind the Curtain How one global retailer is advancing sustainable denim and encouraging others to do the same. WORDS BY BIANCA O’NEILL
As the fashion industry shifts towards more sustainable practices, one global retailer is well and truly keeping pace. UNIQLO has introduced a new technology that has seen it reduce wastewater in the production of its jeans by an average of 90 per cent. But it’s not the brand’s only innovation in the space. On a recent visit to the retailer’s Jeans Innovation Centre (JIC) in Los Angeles, global media were treated to a behind-the-scenes look at this new process, which is set to change denim manufacturing for the better. REDUCING WATER USE BY 90% ON AVERAGE
Little known to many, there is huge water wastage that takes place during traditional denim manufacturing. This is largely due to the continuous wash cycles that raw denim has to undergo in order to achieve different levels of wash colour or to create a worn, ‘vintage’ look. Over the last four years, UNIQLO’s Jeans Innovation Centre has been testing new washing processes in an attempt to reduce this wastage. Its answer? A combination of nanobubbles (almost like high-force steam) and water-free ozone gas cleansing. On average, production at the JIC is now using 90 per cent less water, with some of these new washing processes reducing the water footprint by up to 99 per cent. Interestingly, the JIC developed this new process using existing technology not specifically made for denim manufacture. The creators of the production machinery are learning, along with UNIQLO, how to retrofit their technology into the new process. UNIQLO is now inviting other producers to use the water-saving measures as well. “The JIC was built from our desire to make denim more sustainable,” shares COO of the Jeans Innovation Centre, Masaaki Matsubara. “We never intended to reduce water used for jeans washing by only 10 per cent or 20 per cent. Ultimately, we want to reduce water usage to near zero. Only this can be considered true innovation.” LASER TECHNOLOGY AIDING SUSTAINABILITY GOALS
One of the worst aspects of denim manufacturing for workers has traditionally been the controlled destroy process. That is, the physical roughingup of the fabrics in order to lend a ‘vintage’ look to denim.
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In the past, UNIQLO workers have used harmful chemicals to physically wear away layers of denim, as well as sanding processes that threw blue denim ‘dust’ into the air. Not only did these processes take time, but the workers often left their shifts covered in this potentially harmful by-product. UNIQLO’s new technology has now seen its workers retrained and upskilled to work with laser machines. Graphic designs, modelled on real vintage denim, are input into these machines before the lasers then ‘destroy’ each pair of jeans within minutes. This process is fascinating to watch. A laser works its way down each leg removing thin layers of denim, then uses super-quick controlled burning to open up vintage-looking rips and tears. Not only does it take mere minutes (compared to hours of physical labour), but it also produces very little waste. Another aspect of controlled denim destruction is stone washing, used to achieve a faded, mottled effect on the final product.
Traditionally, natural pumice stones were used for stone washing. However, these stones only last around two washes and disintegrate, contaminating water and creating more waste. UNIQLO, however, has introduced a new, artificial ‘eco-stone’. It mimics the effect of pumice, without creating stone powder waste. Combined with the technologies mentioned above, this eco-stone is making a massive impact in the sustainable production space. UNIQLO is now on target to have its entire denim range run through the new technology by 2020. “Our ambition is to redefine what sustainability means in the apparel industry,” says Director of Sustainability, Veronique Roche. “[We want] to leverage the scale of our business to have genuine meaning and impact.” Bianca was hosted at the Jeans Innovation Centre in Los Angeles by UNIQLO. UNIQLO.COM/AU
MUSIC
Total Strangers WORDS BY ELIZA SHOLLY
If Angie McMahon was given a high school superlative, it wouldn’t have been Most Outgoing. It probably would not have even been Most Likely to Become Famous. But she would have been a frontrunner for Most Likely to Fulfil her Dreams, in one capacity or another. How do I know this? Well, to unnecessarily insert myself into this narrative, I actually went to school with her. I guess you could say I’ve been following Angie’s career since 2005, when we both played trumpet together in our primary school instrumental program. And while my performative musical career began and ended there, it was obvious even then that bigger things were on the horizon for Angie. After graduating, the world cottoned on to her talents. The last two years have seen her release a string of exceptionally well-received singles, sell-out international headline shows, perform coveted festival spots and amass a legion of fans from all around the world. The culmination of this writing, touring and performing is her debut album, Salt, a project that packages a feeling so well, Angie makes it look easy. The record couples melancholy solitude with powerful songwriting. It serves as a timely reminder that the truth isn’t always easy to hear, but it’s easier to digest with a voice like hers. Salt seems to enter the inner workings of your mind. What happens when total strangers feel they have licence to ask you about some of the darkest moments in your life? To be honest, it’s sort of become a really big part of me developing as a person. It’s interesting to talk to you, actually, because you knew me when I was younger. Back then I was so worried about what people thought of me and the way I came across. I know everyone was like that, but I think it’s something I carried into the beginning of my career. I would so much rather utilise my energy on actual health, and the things that truly matter. Writing so openly has been a really nice way to let go of caring so much. Having all these conversations, you can’t be fake. I don’t really have the option to be anyone but myself, and I’m at peace with that. This album is a kaleidoscope of emotions. Is it scary releasing something so personal? Because I have been sitting with the songs for such a long time, it’s almost like looking back at
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a past reflection of myself. And while the subject matter is really personal, it’s also not what I’m going through right now. Maybe it’s not so scary because I’ve already lived the things, and now they’re old trauma. What are your favourite songs to cry to? This actually isn’t something I’ve shared with anyone, but to be totally open, the first few months of this year I was pretty depressed. So it’s been a big learning curve to work through that and keep being productive at the same time. Making emotional playlists is good for that. I have this playlist that I made called ‘Pulling Together’, which is pretty good. There’s one [song] called Beloved by Mia Dyson that will one hundred per cent make me cry. There’s another called Northsiders, by Christian Lee Hutson, which is a good one. K.d. lang, she does a cover of Neil Young’s After The Gold Rush.
I am a Woman overtly explores the minutiae of feminine identity in such a pure and raw way. How do you feel about being at the forefront of vulnerable women in Australian music at the moment? It’s no secret that the movement where people – particularly women – are being open about their experiences, desires and rights is becoming louder. It’s exciting to be a part of that. I don’t really feel like I’m at the forefront in that sense, because I feel a part of it, more than anything. I’m so inspired by all the other people [who are so open] and it feels like because of them, I can be. It doesn’t feel like some big brave thing, it feels like a natural progression.
Salt is out now via AWAL Recordings. Catch Angie McMahon touring nationally in October. ANGIEMCMAHON.COM
Plans tonight? BEAT.COM.AU FIND HUNDREDS OF EVENTS & GIGS
THE NEW ALBUM FROM CLAIRO
OUT NOW
PLAY TIME Look elsewhere in this issue and you’ll quickly learn that UNIQLO is doing great work in the realm of denim innovation and sustainability. Here, however, you'll learn just how easy UNIQLO denim is to wear, no matter how you play.
ISABELLA WEARS UNIQLO WOMEN’S U CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRT IN PINK $14.90 UNIQLO WOMEN’S ULTRA STRETCH JEANS $59.90 VOLLEY HERITAGE HIGH LEAP $74.99
DRE WEARS UNIQLO MEN’S U CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRT IN DARK GREEN $19.90 UNIQLO MEN’S REGULAR FIT JEANS $59.90 VOLLEY HERITAGE INTERNATIONAL $54.99
PHOTOGRAPHER – JESPER HEDE AT CUBED STUDIO STYLIST – JAM BAYLON AT PARTISAN
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HAIR AND MAKEUP – KAT BARDSLEY MODELS – DRE AT DUVAL AGENCY, ISABELLA AT CHADWICK MODELS
ISABELLA WEARS UNIQLO WOMEN’S U CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRT IN BROWN $14.90, UNIQLO WOMEN’S ULTRA STRETCH JEANS $59.90, VOLLEY HERITAGE HIGH LEAP $74.99 DRE WEARS UNIQLO MEN’S U CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRT IN BROWN $19.90, UNIQLO MEN’S ULTRA STRETCH SKINNY FIT JEANS $59.90, VOLLEY REVIVAL MID UNISEX $79.99
OPPOSITE PAGE
DRE WEARS UNIQLO MEN’S U CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRT IN BLUE $19.90 UNIQLO MEN’S SLIM FIT JEANS $59.90 VOLLEY REVIVAL MID UNISEX $79.99 THIS PAGE TOP
ISABELLA WEARS UNIQLO WOMEN’S U CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRT $19.90, UNIQLO WOMEN’S ULTRA STRETCH JEANS $59.90, VOLLEY HERITAGE INTERNATIONAL $54.99 THIS PAGE BOTTOM
DRE WEARS UNIQLO MEN’S U CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRT IN YELLOW $19.90 UNIQLO MEN’S STRETCH SELVEDGE SLIM FIT JEANS $59.90, VOLLEY HERITAGE HIGH LEAP $74.99 ISABELLA WEARS UNIQLO WOMEN’S U CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRT IN YELLOW $14.90, UNIQLO WOMEN’S ULTRA STRETCH JEANS $59.90, VOLLEY REVIVAL LOW IN BLACK $69.99
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UNIQLO.COM/AU @UNIQLOAU /UNIQLO.AU
EDUCATION
Create
LOL Space Workshops CLASS LIFE DRAWING LOCATION MELBOURNE NEXT INTAKE EVERY SUNDAY
Independent collective, Ladies of Leisure, offers weekly workshops covering everything you need to know about being a person in the world, but Sunday afternoons are particularly for life drawing. Focused on responding to your body and finding new perspectives, visual artist Lani Mitchell guides you through discovering your own creative flow in this safe, body-positive environment. Visit the website to see the full roster of workshops, from friendship speed-dating to financial literacy. LADIESOFLEISUREZINE.COM PHOTO CREDIT: AMELIA STANWIX
Australian Academy of Modelling
National Institute of Dramatic Art
COURSE COMPREHENSIVE MODELLING COURSE LOCATION MELBOURNE AND ONLINE NEXT INTAKE OCTOBER 5
COURSE VARIOUS LOCATION SYDNEY NEXT INTAKE FEBRUARY 2020
Australian Academy of Modelling’s 11-week, comprehensive course covers everything you need to know about launching and sustaining a career as a model. That includes the nitty gritty of runways, editorial, hair and makeup, agency applications, business set-up and marketing. Instruction from industry professionals is complemented by the chance to take part in four different photoshoots and build your portfolio. The Academy also offers online and short courses.
NIDA will take your love of fashion, craft or visual storytelling and use it to build a career in film, TV or theatre. In addition to the Institute’s world-renowned actor training, you’ll find undergraduate, graduate and vocational courses in costume, design, directing, makeup, musical theatre, prop making, set construction and more. Applications for 2020 are now open. APPLY.NIDA.EDU.AU
AUSTRALIANACADEMYOFMODELLING.COM.AU
Whitehouse Institute of Design COURSE BACHELOR OF DESIGN AND MASTER OF DESIGN LOCATION MELBOURNE AND SYDNEY NEXT INTAKE SEPTEMBER 2019 / FEBRUARY 2020
Whitehouse Institute of Design is hosting its 2019 open day on Saturday August 24 to showcase its students’ latest design work. Visitors will get the rundown of available degrees (including undergraduate courses in Fashion Design, Interior Design and Creative Direction and Styling) and can chat to academic staff about their individual pathways. There will also be free workshops, exhibitions and a student runway, with registration now open online. Bring in this magazine to get a free Whitehouse tote bag. WHITEHOUSE-DESIGN.EDU.AU/OPENDAY
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EDUCATION
Thread Den
Italian Cultural Institute
Box Hill Institute
COURSE VARIOUS LOCATION MELBOURNE NEXT INTAKE CHECK ONLINE
COURSE VARIOUS LOCATION MELBOURNE NEXT INTAKE AUGUST 26 – OCTOBER 10
COURSE DESIGN LOCATION MELBOURNE NEXT INTAKE CHECK ONLINE
Thread Den’s sewing lounge offers workshops and short courses covering sewing and embroidery basics, as well as more experienced dressmaking techniques. Classes are kept small to ensure your time is as beneficial as possible and to create a more social atmosphere. Courses are conducted primarily in the evenings and on weekends to accommodate people who work full-time but still want to branch out and gain new skills.
It’s never too late to learn a new language, you just need to know where to start. The Italian Cultural Institute holds Italian lessons at a variety of levels, whether you’re a complete beginner or just looking to refine your skills. Instructors aim to teach culture and language that you can use in real-life situations – like that holiday you’ve been dreaming of, for example.
Box Hill Institute offers a huge range of courses to set you up for a creative career, including fashion, graphic design, interior design, photography or visual merchandising. Qualifications range from certificates and diplomas through to bachelor’s degrees, as well as a wide range of creative short courses. Open days will be held in Box Hill on August 25 and Lilydale Lakeside on September 15.
IICMELBOURNE.ESTERI.IT PHOTO CREDIT: LISA GOLDEN
BOXHILL.EDU.AU
THREADDEN.COM
Australian Style Institute COURSE THREE QUALIFICATION LEVELS OF PROFESSIONAL STYLING: CERTIFICATE, ADVANCED AND MASTERS LOCATION MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, PERTH AND ONLINE NEXT INTAKE OCTOBER 2019
Home to the most comprehensive fashion styling courses in the country, Australian Style Institute offers instruction in both editorial and personal styling, all with a unique focus on individuality and human behaviour. The flexible curriculum combines face-to-face intensives with online learning to produce versatile cohorts of industry-ready stylists. Students are also actively supported in finding work across editorial, TV, branding and more opportunities after they’ve completed their courses. AUSTRALIANSTYLEINSTITUTE.COM.AU
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Bring your vision to life Combine your love of design and fashion for an exciting career in theatre, film and television. Explore NIDA’s Design for Performance and Costume degrees and learn from the best at Australia’s leading institute for performing arts education and training. 2020 applications are now open. → Bachelor of Fine Arts → Master of Fine Arts → Vocational Diplomas
ut our o b a e r o Find out m ostume dC Design an a.edu.au d i n t a s course
Photo by Fenton PhotoMedia PRV 12052 – CRICOS 00756M – RTO 90349
MOREBLESSING WEARS ARNSDORF SKIVVY $129, STYLIST’S OWN EARRING
JUSTINE WEARS ARNSDORF MERINO RIB FUNNEL NECK SKIVVY $129, ARNSDORF KAREN PANT $690 TALENT’S OWN JEWELLERY
BRI WEARS KOWTOW WORKROOM JUMPER $259, STYLIST’S OWN EARRINGS
Getting Louder PHOTOGRAPHER – KRISTINA YENKO PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT – CHRIS CAO STYLIST – OLIVIA SMYTHE
HAIR AND MAKEUP – VERONIKA MOREIRA HAIR FOR MOREBLESSING – CHRISSY ZEMURA
TALENT – MOREBLESSING MATURURE, JUSTINE YOUSSEF, BRI LEE SHOT AT SUNSTUDIOS SYDNEY
INTERVIEW
WORDS AND INTERVIEWS BY ELIZA SHOLLY
For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. The same holds true for activists, who face as much opposition and controversy as they do support and endorsement for the issues they are advocating. Far from being silenced, the voices of these three women are only getting louder.
MOREBLESSING MATURURE If we had to write the Wikipedia page for Moreblessing Maturure, defining her role would be a hefty task. Born in Zimbabwe, Moreblessing moved to Australia at eight years old. Since then, it’s been achievement after achievement. She’s the founder of FOLK Magazine, dedicated to showcasing Australian artists of colour and their work. She’s held a myriad of acting roles, has written for an extensive list of titles, is developing an online dramedy series called Afro Sistahs, is a proud diversity advocate, a TEDx speaker, a model and the winner of multiple awards. I constantly ask myself, ‘how is my work contributing to the bigger picture?’ Because I have the privilege to influence, whether through advocacy, activism or the work I create and support, I am constantly thinking about what causes to prioritise and when. Currently, it’s access. Not just physical accessibility (which we’re roundly shocking at prioritising), but how content creators and storytellers are framing the things that we’re passionate about. How accessible are these discussions for all people to engage in?
How we perform our activism is crucial. Too often it’s to be received by those who have had access to tertiary education, or at least been given the means and access to develop skills of critical analysis. Not everyone has access to opportunities to learn and sharpen those skills. Representation matters, too. Growing up in Zimbabwe, I saw people that looked like me everywhere; that was my reality. Then I came here and I came up against the messaging that my reality wasn’t the norm. So many little things, like having sign language on the news as the default in Zimbabwe, is another reality that isn’t the norm here. The rules of engagement are different here. Some realities are deemed more legitimate than others — and that doesn’t quite cut it for me. MOREBLESSING WEARS
LEFT KOWTOW ADA LONG SLIP DRESS $209, BATU AZUMI BOOTS $329, ALIX YANG SOPHIA EARRINGS $115 RIGHT VIKTORIA AND WOODS EVEREST BLAZER $500 VIKTORIA AND WOODS VARGO CULOTTE $320 ARNSDORF SKIVVY $129, BATU AZUMI BOOTS $329 ALIX YANG LINDY EARRINGS $112
INTERVIEW
BRI LEE
JUSTINE YOUSSEF The magic of Justine Youssef can be felt in what she says, but also what she creates. The artist is a founding co-director of Pari, an initiative dedicated to contributing to the cultural life of Western Sydney on Dharug Land, where Justine was born. Her artworks are a response to global xenophobia, exploring how this racism is reflected in the smells, sights and textures of her ancestral homeland in Southwest Asia. Justine also uses art to consider neo-colonial rhetoric through her own feminist lens. Growing up I was told that my parents had escaped something in Lebanon, but there was so much silence masking the political occupation and warfare that displaced them from their homes. My art practice became a tool to dismantle that silence. It’s a technology I use to build counter-colonial narratives and highlight how systems of oppression endure to this day. For example, ‘Australian’ society began with colonisation. The human labour and resource exploitation that make the fashion industry the second-most polluting industry on the planet (after Big Oil) are embedded in capitalism, which came to this land through that colonisation. When my aunties first arrived here, they worked as garment sewers for an Australian fashion house. They worked long hours and were paid under minimum wage. The fact that I’m here sharing parts of my story, wearing these garments on this set today, holds so many complexities that I’m still trying to understand. My cousin Chris took me to my first anti-colonial protest when I was 16. The protest was in support of Palestine and in resistance to its occupation. It was my first glimpse into what activism could look like and I continue to engage in this way, to this day. Activism via collective organising is an affirming way to recognise that we actually can enact change. JUSTINE WEARS
ABOVE ARNSDORF CLASSIC TRENCH $890 BATU ITSUME HEELS $269 TALENT’S OWN JEWELLERY
When Eggshell Skull was first published in May last year, author Bri Lee quickly became the face of a cause that so many could relate to. The autobiography details Bri’s experience as a sexual assault survivor and complainant in the Australian legal system. Through sharing her story, Bri was given a microphone to publicly advocate for women’s rights, which led to her most recent project to change consent law in Queensland. The 110-year-old legal defence allows an accused rapist to argue they had a mistaken but honest and reasonable belief that sex was consensual. Bri co-authored the most detailed academic study of the use of the defence, which, due to her efforts, has since been referred to the state’s Law Reform Commission for review. I burst into tears when I got the news on the 9th of July. I found out a few hours before the formal announcement and had to go to the ABC offices to record a piece to camera for that night’s news. Having fought for this for so long, and having come up against so much conservative pushback, I really am still processing what an achievement the referral is. We have had so much correspondence from survivors who feel shame because they froze when they were subject to unwanted sexual advances, rather than fighting back or running away. In reality, the freeze response is the most common. So as an incidental by-product, we’ve been able to raise awareness about the freeze response and how common those rape myths are. That’s been really powerful. I think survivors are gladiators. The number of people that have read my book and told me it was the catalyst for them going to the police, or even telling their partner or parents, is huge. That, on a daily basis, gives me such an immense source of pride and also makes me feel like a vigilante superhero. We still have a bit of a fight ahead, of course. But at the end of the day, I feel satisfied knowing that change is really possible.
BRI WEARS KOWTOW COLLECTOR SHIRT $199, KOWTOW EDITION PANT $229, ALIX YANG ZURI HOOPS $105
RIGHT VIKTORIA AND WOODS ALPS SHIRT $240 TALENT’S OWN JEWELLERY
FULL INTERVIEWS ONLINE AT FASHIONJOURNAL.COM.AU
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HIGHLIGHTS M/FW ’19 takes over the city from 28 August to 5 September with more than 150 events celebrating Melbourne’s creative, innovative and thriving fashion scene.
RUNWAYS HIGHRISE RUNWAYS
POOLSIDE AND STREET RUNWAYS
TOWN HALL RUNWAYS
28 AUG 85TH FLOOR, EUREKA TOWER
29 AUG – 5 SEPT CITY-WIDE
30 AUG – 5 SEPT MELBOURNE TOWN HALL
TICKETED
TICKETED AND FREE
TICKETED
For the first time ever, the unoccupied 85th floor of the Eureka Tower will play host to three unique runways that celebrate independent designers STRATEAS CARLUCCI, Kloke, A.BCH, VERNER x Lisa Waup and more. Presented by Bensons Property Group.
M/FW takes over some of the city's most iconic spaces. There will be an athleisure show at Melbourne City Baths as well as four free Street Runways across the city, including a runway in Caledonian Lane presented by Emporium Melbourne, two showcases in Chinatown presented by PR Asia, and a runway at Seafarers Bridge.
See new-season looks from designers CAMILLA AND MARC, Arnsdorf, Scanlan Theodore, J’Aton Couture, Bianca Spender and more, as well as work from emerging student designers at these premium runways in Melbourne Town Hall.
FORECOURT AND MARKETPLACE 29 AUG – 5 SEPT MELBOURNE TOWN HALL FREE The Forecourt is the must-visit destination during M/FW featuring a bar, DJs, and interactive experiences from MECCA, Campos Coffee, China Eastern, Emporium Melbourne, and Specsavers. You will also have the opportunity to shop exclusive runway looks at the pop-up M/FW Marketplace located in Swanston Hall.
THE FASHION CAPSULES
POP UPS
6 AUG – 5 SEPT CITY-WIDE
28 AUG – 5 SEPT CITY-WIDE
FREE
FREE
The six exhibition Fashion Capsules scattered across the city* showcase creative talent and bring together inspirational leaders in fashion, animation, costume, film, performance and digital arts. Presented by Creative Victoria.
Catch these free fashion moments as they rove through the city and in a M/FW first – at Melbourne Airport. The Pop Ups will feature menswear, gender-neutral, maximalism and ready-to-wear fashion as well as a showcase featuring model Robyn Lawley and Bella Unsigned Model Search finalists.
*Check out the Fashion Capsules map on the back to find out more.
VAEFNO
THE FASHION FORUM
M/FW CONVERSATIONS
29 AUG CITY-WIDE
2 SEPT ZINC AT FEDERATION SQUARE
2 – 4 SEPT MERCEDES ME STORE
FREE
TICKETED
TICKETED
M/FW once again plays host to fashion’s biggest shopping festival – Vogue American Express Fashion’s Night Out (VAEFNO). With one-off offers and activations from hundreds of city retailers, this one-day event has something for everyone looking to elevate their wardrobe.
Retail expert Doug Stephens, M/FW Ambassador Adut Akech, Creative Director of MECCA Brands Marita Burke and KEVIN.MURPHY founder Kevin Murphy join a stellar line-up of industry experts to offer insights into everything from sustainable business practices to the future of retail. Presented by Creative Victoria.
Learn from fashion experts and tastemakers at this series of bite-sized talks. Topics include how to create engaging social media content, an in-depth discussion with designer Bianca Spender, and how sustainability has driven the need for new business models. Presented by Creative Victoria.
ETHICAL CLOTHING AUSTRALIA ON TOUR
THEY SHIELD US
MODEST FASHION
30 – 31 AUG EMPORIUM MELBOURNE
31 AUG KOORIE HERITAGE TRUST
31 AUG – 1 SEPT CITY-WIDE
TICKETED
FREE
FREE AND TICKETED
Tour each location in Melbourne’s Guide to Ethical Shopping and hear from representatives from Arnsdorf, Manning Cartell, Viktoria & Woods and more. Led by Ethical Clothing Australia, this unique opportunity gives you the chance to learn more about ethical production.
In this exhibition discover how Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander women adorn their bodies to harness the strength and power of their ancestors and how their bodies carry thousands of years of cultural knowledge.
M/FW is giving a platform to the growing modest fashion movement. Join the Modest Fashion Runway, which features looks for fashion-lovers from diverse cultures and lifestyles, or head to a weekend-long celebration of this fashion community at Mod Markit where you’ll find shopping experiences, a clothes swap and more.
TICKETS ON SALE NOW
FOR THE FULL PROGRAM VISIT
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CAPSULE 1 – MELBOURNE TOWN HALL FORECOURT
CAPSULE 2 – CITY OF MELBOURNE VISITOR HUB
CAPSULE 3 – SOUTHBANK PROMENADE
29 AUG – 5 SEPT | OPEN FROM 11AM
6 AUG – 5 SEPT | 9AM – 6PM
6 AUG – 5 SEPT | 24/7
Line-up, pose and take a photo while thinking about repurposing and zero waste.
An exhibit featuring customised denim pieces by painters, sculptors, weavers, photographers, costume makers and multidisciplinary artists.
A celebration of First Nations artists and designers featuring work from those who are taking on the world with their high-end, futuristic vision while acknowledging their history and culture.
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CAPSULE 4 – COLLINS PLACE
CAPSULE 5 – COLLINS SQUARE
CAPSULE 6 – SOUTHERN CROSS RAILWAY STATION
8 AUG – 5 SEPT | 8AM – 7PM
13 AUG – 5 SEPT | 8AM – 5PM (CLOSED SAT AND SUN)
7 AUG – 5 SEPT | 24/7
A whimsical collaboration between Melbourne’s most-loved made-to-measure designers and milliners.
With a ‘Sweet 16’ theme, this capsule features fabrics suspended high above a glass atrium as they cascade below forming designer gowns and cocktail wear.
A collaboration between artists, costume, textile and accessory designers who aim to spark feelings of joy from passers by.
PRESENTED BY
OFFICIAL PARTNERS
SUPPORTING PARTNERS
MEDIA PARTNERS
MAJOR PARTNER
ASIAN ENGAGEMENT PARTNER
FEATURE
Now Playing WORDS BY SASHA GATTERMAYR ILLUSTRATIONS BY TWYLAMAE
As non-traditional as it might seem, everything I know, I learnt from podcasts. They were my teachers at the school of life far more than institutions had been at all. Call Your Girlfriend and The Guilty Feminist taught me everything I know about intersectional feminism, while Longform trained me in how to be a writer. Podcasts like these allow us to share knowledge, raise our voices and educate ourselves.
She’s on the Money
How to be a Girl
Guys we F****d
WITH MOLLY BENJAMIN AND LISA CONWAY-HUGHES
WITH MARLO MACK
WITH CORINNE FISHER AND KRYSTYNA HUTCHINSON
UK-based initiative, She’s on the Money, started as event workshops that aim to enhance financial literacy among women. Its podcast is now beamed around the world. Hosted by founder Molly Benjamin and financial planner Lisa ConwayHughes, She’s on the Money looks at investing, pensions, taxes, budgeting and property, with zero accounting jargon. It’s not so much about demystifying finance as it is about learning how the most important system in the world works, so that women can take control of their financial independence and stability. Together, Benjamin and Conway-Hughes break down difficult and deliberately confusing financial concepts in a friendly, no-bullshit way. Industry guests feature on every episode, delivering their own ‘how-to’ guides, such as on building an investment portfolio with 100% ethical companies. It also dedicates specific episodes to financial issues that disproportionately affect women, such as child support, health insurance and tackling the gender pay gap. It encompasses the financial needs of all different kinds of working women, professional or not, from home loans to freelancing. It’s funny and educational and everything I wish I’d learnt at school.
Marlo is the single mother of a transgender child. At three years old, her son informed her that she was actually a girl. How to be a Girl chronicles Marlo’s journey of raising her daughter and the complications they face in a society that is sometimes hostile to each of them. It is also a moving exploration of parenthood, as Marlo herself re-evaluates her identity and makes a huge effort towards self-education. She experiences moments of doubt and sadness, simultaneously longing for the child that used to be there, but deeply loving the one she has now. How to be a Girl is at the frontier of new parenting literature, veering away from self-help and more towards the essence of being human. It is about the experience of being transgender, the experience of someone you love being transgender, and navigating unfamiliar territory together. Heartwarming, open-minded and inspirational, it made me cry tears of sadness and happiness at once. The central question the host asks is what is a ‘girl’, anyway? What does it mean, even to a fully-grown woman, to be female? It is a deep and uplifting portrayal of a child teaching a parent, rather than the other way around.
This is an example of a podcast steering the collective conversation in a new direction. Hosted by New York comedians Corinne Fisher and Krystyna Hutchinson, this sex-positive podcast is all about discussing topics that are still taboo for women in the public space. Primarily, female sexuality. Our foul-mouthed, straighttalking, sexually expressive hosts interview revolutionaries in reproductive health, people from all corners of the LGBTQI+ community, people in the arts, sex workers and porn stars. They also successfully weave in-depth pop culture analyses with real-world and political references. Expect titles like ‘Does Kris Jenner know when each of us will die?’ and ‘You’re a queer Christian?’. Fisher and Hutchison are like the crazy aunts we only ever see at Christmas because our parents worry they will be a bad influence, but little do they know they buy us booze on the weekends and tell us everything they know about sex. Fisher and Hutchinson speak truth to power, are confrontational in a way we all wish we were, and are laughing with sex not at it. And occasionally they talk about guys they f****d.
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Call my Agent ! The city of Melbourne comes alive this time of year. Spring is nearing, layers are shedding and Fashion Journal is again an official media partner of Melbourne Fashion Week. Quite like these images, it’s going to be spectacular.
MELBOURNE.VIC.GOV.AU/MFW
PHOTOGRAPHER – TRACEY LEE HAYES PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANTS – ALEX REINDERS AND MEL KULINSKI
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STYLIST – STUART WALFORD MODELS – ZOE AT FIVETWENTY MODEL MANAGEMENT, SARAH AT PEOPLE AGENCY
STYLIST’S ASSISTANT – RAINEY PENSINI HAIR – CLAIRE LEIGHTON MAKEUP – NIGEL STANISLAUS
ZOE WEARS CAMILLA AND MARC LEXA ZIP TURTLENECK $199 SANDRO BLAZER $720, JASON GRECH DRESS, VOODOO HOSIERY COLOUR BURST TIGHTS $12.95 ZARA BAG $45.95, KIM FLETCHER HEADPIECE $410, POPPY LISSIMAN CRYSTAL BETH SUNGLASSES $145 KITTE EARRINGS $169, ZARA BOOTS $139, STYLIST’S OWN BELTS
SARAH WEARS CARLA ZAMPATTI GOWN $1099, KITTE NECKLACE $129, JYJEWELS EARRINGS $295, KITTE BOW ZOE WEARS CLAUDIE PIERLOT TWEED JACKET AND SKIRT, JYJEWELS EARRINGS $295, KITTE BOW
ZOE WEARS JASON GRECH METALLIC DRESS, VOODOO HOSIERY LOLA TIGHTS $19.95, KITTE EARRINGS $169 JYJEWELS NECKLACE $299 STYLIST’S OWN BOOTS AND RING SARAH WEARS ARNSDORF PRUDENCE SHIRT $380, MISHA TUXEDO JUMPSUIT POPPY LISSIMAN HUNTSTMAN LUXE SUNGLASSES $145, KIM FLETCHER FEATHER HEADPIECE $210 STYLIST’S OWN SHOES
SARAH WEARS CARLA ZAMPATTI COAT $999, STILL STILL STUDIO DRESS, KITTE NECKLACE $134, POPPY LISSIMAN SPEED LIMIT SUNGLASSES $95 ZOE WEARS MAJE CASHMERE SWEATER $640, CLAUDIE PIERLOT JACKET $550, JASON GRECH TROUSERS, KITTE EARRINGS $119 AND NECKLACE $129, KIM FLETCHER ZEBRA HAT $160, STYLIST’S OWN SHOES
SARAH WEARS NICOLA FINETTI DRESS STILL STILL STUDIO SEQUIN DUSTER MELISSA JACKSON HEADPIECE VOODOO HOSIERY TIGHTS $12.95, ZOMP SHOES, POPPY LISSIMAN SNAPPER SAC IN BLUE CROC $155, POPPY LISSIMAN SKINNY DEMON SUNGLASSES $95 JYJEWELS NECKLACE $299
ZOE WEARS MAJE CASHMERE SWEATER $640, CLAUDIE PIERLOT JACKET $550, JASON GRECH TROUSERS, KITTE EARRINGS $119 AND NECKLACE $129, KIM FLETCHER ZEBRA HAT $160, STYLIST’S OWN SHOES
ZOE WEARS NICOLA FINETTI DRESS $550, VOODOO HOSIERY TIGHTS POPPY LISSIMAN CRIKEY BB BAG IN PINK $185, MELISSA JACKSON HEADPIECE, JYJEWELS NECKLACE $299 KITTE NECKLACE $109, STYLIST’S OWN SHOES AND EARRINGS
SPECIAL THANKS TO THE PAPERBACK BOOKSHOP, WINDSOR GENTS SALON AND BONZA WASH LAUNDRETTE PRICES NOT LISTED ARE POA
ZOE WEARS CAMILLA AND MARC SHIRT $399, GUCCI BUSTIER FROM REINA MELBOURNE SANDRO DENIM SKIRT $480, ZOMP BOOTS $275, KITTE NECKLACES $109, KITTE EARRINGS $169 SARAH WEARS SANDRO DENIM JACKET $550, SANDRO JEANS $520 CAMILLA AND MARC TURTLENECK $299, ZARA BOOTS $159, CLAUDIE PIERLOT BAG
PHOTOGRAPHER – AMELIA J DOWD AT VIVIEN’S CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT – SEAN SINCLAIR STYLIST – JOSIE MCMANUS
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HAIR AND MAKEUP – VIC ANDERSON AT RELOAD AGENCY MODEL – FARRAH AT CHADWICK MODELS SHOT AT SUNSTUDIOS SYDNEY
OPPOSITE PAGE
NEW GUARD COAT ASOS TOP $36 AND LEGGINGS $44 BALLY BOOTS $870 THIS PAGE
MAJE SWEATER $430 BEC & BRIDGE SKIRT $150
MOSCHINO GLASSES POA, DOUBLE RAINBOUU T-SHIRT $95, HUGO BOSS SWEATER $466
JOSIE STARDUST VINTAGE TEE $95 ASOS SKIRT $60 SANDRO SNEAKERS $415
FEATURE
On One Hand Thoughts around friendship, boundaries and when to let go. WORDS BY RACHAEL AKHIDENOR ILLUSTRATION BY TWYLAMAE
A few months ago, I had my tarot cards read. My life was changing rapidly. In the previous months, many pivotal friendships in my life had dissipated, even though I had done everything in my power to keep those once much-loved friendships alive. I had contorted myself into a person I did not recognise in order to keep the peace. And then, when it seemed I had exhausted all options and they still walked away, I felt the heavy shame of failed friendships every day. I was recommended to see a lady who owned a dingy shop filled with crystal balls and angel cards. Her name was Sophie. Many had said she was exactly what I needed. The room was warm and dimly lit. She drew cards in each of my astrological houses. She noted that I was in a time of transition. “Your friendships are shifting,” she said in a quiet whisper. “People are moving in and out of your life. Don’t hold on to them, let them go.” Slightly unsettled, I asked her to elaborate. “People come into your life on three grounds: for a reason, for a season or for life. Don’t get them confused,” she said. “Lifelong friendships are rare, you can count them on one hand. All other friendships are transient, placed in your life to teach you something. Once that friend has served their purpose, they will leave. You must learn to let them.” I was impressed by her accuracy. There were many friendships in my life that no longer served me. Friends that made me feel bad about myself, that I had learnt to accept and tolerate, that I had fought tooth and nail to keep. Why did I do this? Why had I held onto toxic friendships, instead of simply letting them go? Because it isn’t simple. In fact, it’s understandable. Since the age of time there has been safety in numbers. To be liked means to be part of a community and in the time of hunters and gatherers, this was synonymous with survival. Humans needed groups to stay alive. While the human race as a species has since evolved, our unconscious beliefs around friendships have endured. To be likeable is a symbol of status. The more friends we have, the higher our social standing. It’s a belief so ingrained in our culture, we rarely question it. A person who is constantly having qualms with friends, however, is more likely to be deemed the root of the problem. An inability to maintain friendships broadcasts a lack of social skills. We perceive these people as unlikeable. We believe there is something inherently wrong with them.
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Our fear of being unpopular is therefore entirely natural, yet the consequences are harming us more than we’d like to admit. We allow all kinds of hideous behaviour. We fight for friendships that are toxic, we accept flakiness and disrespect, and we allow our friends to treat us in less than stellar ways, without the bat of an eyelid. We reduce ourselves, and our worth, to the number of friends we have. Sophie’s words of wisdom had turned this perception on its head. She had asked me to stop conflating my social worth with the size of my friendship group and instead insisted that I divorce my value as a person from my ability to maintain friendships. I was to accept a cold, hard truth that the majority of friendships we have now will not remain forever. It got me thinking. Was my fear of being labelled unpopular the reason I was so reluctant to let go? Was I afraid of becoming a social pariah if my friendship circle was an ever-revolving door of fresh faces? Potentially. But I wondered if there were other forces at play. There is no denying the fact that extricating friends from our lives is downright difficult. As a hopeless believer and a foolish optimist, memories of the ‘good old days’ are seared into my brain. I fight for friendships in the hope that one day they may go back to the way they were. Of course, sentimental attachment to another
person doesn’t expire the minute the relationship stops being mutually beneficial. And let’s not forget our deep aversion to change. Whether it is for better or worse, difference is uncomfortable. Growing pains are inevitable. Too often, we hold on to a toxic friendship in order to maintain some semblance of familiarity. I asked Sophie if it was really that easy. “Of course it is,” she said. “You must realise that life is always changing. Don’t be sad when a friend leaves. Push away your resentment. It’s a blessing. It means they have served their purpose. It means you are alive.” We all experience hardships with people we love, that’s the point of friendship. But Sophie was saying that I had to learn when the scales had tipped out of balance past a salvageable point. It can be heartbreaking to realise that a friendship represents a person you no longer are. But that confrontation is part of growing up. The following month, a good friend and I had a falling out. It was sparked by a forgotten birthday invitation and ended in an all-out text message war. I was no stranger to friendship altercations but this one was different. This time, I did not fight. I did not contort myself to hold on to a friendship that had run its course. I refused to allow the dissolution of that friendship define my worth. I simply let it go.
TICKETS ON SALE NOW FESTIVALX.COM.AU/TICKETS
CRUELTY-FREE
Go Vegan
Zuii Organic
Lumen + Luxe
Certified vegan and completely organic, Zuii Organic’s Lux Range is formulated to protect the skin from the damaging effects of the environment. Pavlova Lutheri extract is combined with the brand’s signature blend of functional actives and botanicals to provide nourishment and create a protective barrier against pollutants. Made with real flowers, the range features a line of creamy Lux Lipsticks and two types of foundation – the Flawless Foundation and Luminescent Foundation. Also included in the range is the Lux Finishing Powder, which features a rose petal finish.
Few things create atmosphere like lighting a candle or diffusing essential oils. Smell is the strongest sense we have and Lumen + Luxe believes in taking advantage of that to improve people’s moods and lives. The brand offers candles, diffusers, room sprays and mists that, thanks to all-natural ingredients like 100% vegetable soy and coconut wax, won’t harm you or the Earth. Choose from scents like French Pear, Lime in the Coconut, Persian Oud and Madagascan Vanilla. Until September, you will also score a complimentary essential oil roller with any online purchase using code FJReader.
ZUIIORGANIC.COM
LUMENANDLUXE.COM.AU
Zette Shoes Fitzroy-based retailer Vegan Style has spent the last few years developing its own accessories through in-house label, Zette Shoes. Every pair of shoes is made in Europe from premium materials and (as a personal touch) named after one of the founders’ many foster cats. The label’s Winter collection is all about taking sophisticated, elegant styles and giving them an unexpectedly playful twist. You’ll find pops of warm orange, metallic prints and glittery combat boots. And because everyone should be able to find a pair of bold, cruelty-free shoes, the brand now offers extended men’s and unisex sizing. VEGANSTYLE.COM.AU
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fashion show, workshops, campus tour, student exhibition
2019
2 Short St, Surry Hills NSW 672 Bourke St, Melbourne VIC
Register Online
whitehouse-design.edu.au/openday
cut me out and bring me with you!
You will receive a FREE tote bag when you show me at Whitehouse Open House. Valid only on open day.
CRUELTY-FREE
Ettitude We all know beauty sleep is important, but what you’re sleeping in makes a difference, too. Ettitude makes its bedding with vegan silk not just because it’s comfortable and ethical, but because it’s better for you. Its sheets use bamboo lyocell, a fabric that is good for skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Vegan silk is antibacterial, so Ettitude sheets don’t have to be washed as frequently as cotton ones. There are also bonus beauty effects, like reduced hair frizz and no post-slumber crease marks on your skin. ETTITUDE.COM.AU
SÜK Workwear Mimosa Schmidt spent years on male-dominated farms, ships and building sites in workwear designed for bodies that looked nothing like hers. The resulting chafing and general discomfort led her to launch SÜK, where she designs functional, gender-inclusive and vegan work clothes. Think boiler suits, overalls, work pants and crop tops made from quality, chemical-free materials. The designs are comfortable and versatile enough to slot in with your everyday wardrobe, just as seamlessly as they fit in with your work gear. Plus, $1 from every garment sold is donated to The Social Studio. SUKWORKWEAR.COM.AU
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HAIR & BEAUTY
Lay Over If you’ve been lucky enough to jet off on a holiday or are simply recovering from a recent red-eye, touching down from a flight can leave your skin in all sorts. Hydration is key, but certain formulas can give your skin an added boost and aid in post-flight recovery. Christina Karras road tests some of the best. Tatcha The Satin Skin Mist FROM MECCA.COM.AU PRICE $73
Made with Okinawa clay and a blend of Japanese superfoods, this face mist promises to balance your skin, minimise oils and refine skin texture. Tatcha is known for its attention to detail, and the packaging here is luxurious and feels expensive – which is good news considering the price point. The metal spray bottle allows for a really pleasant fine mist, unlike some plastic bottles that produce chunky spritzes. Designed for normal to oily skin, the mist left my face feeling fresh and hydrated, and settled into my skin with no sticky residue. It’s a great little pick-me-up post air travel. RATING 4/5
Trilogy Age-Proof Overnight Mask FROM TRILOGYPRODUCTS.COM/AU PRICE $44.99
Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask
The Inkey List Caffeine Eye Serum
FROM MECCA.COM.AU PRICE $73
FROM SEPHORA.COM.AU PRICE $18
Intended to give tired, out-of-sync skin some much-needed TLC, the Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask has a rich consistency, designed to be lathered onto skin for 10 minutes. It does include a combination of peppermint and citrus oils, meaning it is best avoided by sensitive skin types. The formula settled into my skin well, albeit with some minor tingling. However, five minutes in and keen to check on my newly-hydrating skin, I found my face had flared up in small patches around my eyes, where the skin is most sensitive. To those with tricky or even slightly sensitive skin, this one might not be for you.
Flights can leave your eyes feeling puffy and looking tired, particularly after a red-eye. The Inkey List’s eye serum is made to target those dark circles and eliminate fine lines, with caffeine as the hero ingredient. Using an antiinflammatory antioxidant derived from coffee, the serum noticeably helped to de-puff my eyes. It’s a really nice texture that melts easily into the skin and soothes the area around the eyes, altogether helping me look and feel more awake. There was no real improvement in dark circles, however, that might happen with repeated use.
RATING 2/5
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RATING 3/5
Despite the reference to age in the product name, this mask is ideal for anyone in need of deep hydration. It left my skin feeling plump and even rescued some dry, flaky spots. On application, the mask goes on smooth and white, before drying clear into the skin. I woke up with a hydrated glow. Overall verdict: it feels like a mini facial in a tub that works its magic overnight. RATING 5/5
La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water FROM LAROCHE-POSAY.COM.AU PRICE $11.99
This huge bottle of spring water boasts natural antioxidant properties through mineral and trace elements, to help soothe sensitive skin. The formula is also prebiotic and promises to help rebalance the skin’s microbiome. It felt a little too watery on first spritz, however was quickly absorbed into my skin. Ultimately, it left my face feeling smooth while also helping to mattify its texture. RATING 4/5
HAIR INTERVIEW & BEAUTY
Beauty Buys What's new in the world of skin and haircare.
Sportsgirl Mr. Smith Mr. Smith has added two new products to its offering, for when your hair is calling for a little bit of love. The Luxury Shampoo is designed for dry hair that needs an extra hit of nourishment, which is delivered by caviar lime, aniseed myrtle and mountain pepper. To follow, the Luxury Masque uses potent antioxidants to improve shine and manageability. Both hydrating formulas are created using vegan, colour-safe and vitamin-rich ingredients that actively repair damage and rejuvenate hair cuticles.
Sportsgirl has re-launched its skincare range with a brand new look. The drop includes five products, suited to a variety of skin types. You’ll find a tropical toner, blueberry jelly cleanser, mango setting spray, avocado overnight face mask, and mango or avocado body scrub. Like all the brand’s beauty products, these new formulas are all vegan and cruelty-free, with ingredients like shea butter, grape seed extract, vitamin E and natural fruit extracts. SPORTSGIRL.COM.AU
MR-SMITH.COM.AU
Patricks
There’s no need to fix what isn’t broken, so instead of messing with its iconic skincare formulas, The Ordinary has decided to bring you more of what you love. The brand has introduced larger sizes of its bestselling products, including the Squalane Cleanser, “Buffet” and Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. Not only does this translate to savings for customers, but it allows The Ordinary to cut down on harmful emissions by making less frequent deliveries.
The men’s grooming specialists and out-of-the-box thinkers at Patricks have just introduced an in-house skincare range. The brand’s new venture includes a face scrub, face wash, body wash, eye balm and two moisturisers. Each vegan formula was developed with the help of a geneticist and neuroscientist, and features pharmaceutical-grade active ingredients to aid in cell renewal. This leaves skin looking and feeling healthier and can minimise the appearance of scars.
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The Ordinary
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MELBOURNE / SYDNEY
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Photographer: Jordan Drysdale / @jordandrysdale Stylist: Vy Nguyen / @ynvynyty Makeup Artist: Rob Povey / @robpoveymua Hair Styling: Georgia Ramman / @georgiaramman Talent / Sarah: People Agency / @people.agency
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Look & Listen WITH SASHA GATTERMAYR AND ELIZA SHOLLY
Three Women
Period Power MAISIE HILL
LISA TADDEO
Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion LESLEY ELLIS MILLER
We hear a lot these days about power imbalances and toxic masculinity. What we don’t hear a lot about is female desire. Lisa Taddeo’s book confronts that cultural silence by intricately chronicling the sexual lives of three ordinary women in America: Maggie, Lina and Sloane. One is in her twenties and recovering from the end of a relationship with an older man, another is a recent divorcée in her thirties and the third regularly attends swingers’ parties with her husband. Though it was sexier than I was expecting from a book about deconstructing assumptions around women and sex, Three Women is a vital portrayal of female desire. It shows the complex struggle women face when trying to find both sexual autonomy and emotional connection under a power structure that has forever conditioned them not to. It is a piece of nonfiction about shame and the fight for independence. It is a powerful and essential read.
Produced in conjunction with the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, this catalogue book accompanies the exhibition of the same name, coming to the Bendigo Art Gallery this August. Interspersed with glossy pictures of garments and images of the designer himself, the book takes us on a journey through Cristóbal Balenciaga’s life almost fifty years after his death. For fans of Grace Coddington’s Grace, it is an essential piece of fashion history. It explores the golden age of couture, the juncture between fashion and culture, and one of the most important designers of the 20th century. At times it can read a bit like an archive, but the material is so thoroughly researched and the story so compelling that the historical context is vivid and captivating, rather than tedious. It ends with an exploration of Balenciaga’s legacy, guiding us through his influence that we still see in the industry today.
Immunity
DJ-Kicks
The Big Day
CLAIRO
PEGGY GOU
CHANCE THE RAPPER
From bedroom beats to breakout singles, Clairo has jumped from strength to strength with ease. Her debut album, Immunity, offers listeners a glimpse into a post-college abyss, detailing a familiar flailing from the lens of a contemporary queer woman. Produced by Rostam Batmanglij of Vampire Weekend fame, what results is a mature, credible body of work that evokes the kind of light euphoria that only good lyricists can. Aptly-titled track ‘Softly’ oozes a new brand of sophisticated pop, while ‘Sofia’ poetically journeys through the emotional chaos that ensues after falling in love with your best friend. If a strong, intentioned female voice is what you seek, then Immunity delivers all that and more. Not bad for a 20-year-old.
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I’m someone who enjoys getting her period. Maybe ‘enjoy’ is the wrong word, but it’s a monthly reminder that everything is working the way it’s supposed to be and I feel connected to my body and the cycle of life. Period Power harnesses that connection and teaches you how to read your hormones, ensuring that periods are an empowering, rather than terrifying, experience. From anatomy lessons to discussions of the politics around access to menstrual products (“period poverty”), Hill wants us all to be period literate. She gives us strategies for self-care that work for all women, with all kinds of cycles. The beginning might be a bit scientific for some but it explains so much terminology I feel I should already have known, that I was engrossed from the start. Maisie Hill gives us the kind of sex education we should have had at school, but didn’t.
Born in South Korea, Berlin-based Peggy Gou has a musical presence that has long transcended the dance floor. Her seemingly never-ending stream of quality mixes has brought female personality to the forefront of the dance music scene. With six EPs already under her belt, DJ-Kicks gives us an introspective look at her influences. With nods to house, jazz, techno, breakbeat, electro, ambient and everything in between, she curates a tracklist that champions her taste-making abilities. Highlights include the soulful deephouse take of Sly & Lovechild’s 1990s’ ‘The World According To Sly & Lovechild (Andrew Weatherall Soul Of Europe Mix)’, as well as the Erhu and Pipa instrumentals of ‘Hungboo’, the first track Gou has ever produced. DJ-Kicks is accessible, easy on the ear and oozes good curation. Thank Gou for that.
Celebrated for releasing three of the best mixtapes in recent hip-hop history, Chicago native Chance The Rapper’s debut album received plenty of hype. Ultimately, however, The Big Day feels lacklustre. A surprisingly meh release. I wanted to love this album, but all in all, The Big Day sounds nothing like a natural progression in his body of work and more like a mishandled attempt at creating pop-rap ballads with clickbait hooks. While there is a brief resurrection in a number of impressive rap guest verses – with names like Smino, Megan Thee Stallion, DaBaby and MadeinTYO featured – any redeeming moments are diluted by the 22-track album length. If you like albums with overdone raps about the minutiae of loving your wife, forgettable production and features that overshadow the actual artist himself, then today is your Big Day.
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Out & About Melbourne Fashion Week Casting In preparation for this year’s Melbourne Fashion Week festivities, over 400 models flocked to North Melbourne’s Meat Market for the annual casting call. From 28 different agencies, old pros and newcomers alike attempted to score a spot on one of MFW’s many runways. PHOTOGRAPHY: SONJA MARIA SUJECKI
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Stockists ALIAS MAE ALIX YANG JEWELLERY ARNSDORF ASOS BALLY BATU BEC & BRIDGE CAMILLA AND MARC CARLA ZAMPATTI CLAUDIE PIERLOT CONVERSE DOUBLE RAINBOUU HUGO BOSS
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