Individual
Pattern Making Journal Skirt Project Skirt Pattern Ready for Construction By, Gabriela Jessica Susilo F15FD0558 FD2A2/10
Skirt pattern ready for construction (week 4-9) - info ¡Prepare
÷Reuse
individual experiment from group task 1-1 … or…
÷Recreate ¡Prepare ¡Know
small scale experiment with PMP
one skirt design with small scale skirt block applying 5 PMP
actual fabric swatches by week 8
the fabric width
¡Prepare
accessories used (zipper, button, trimmings, etc)
¡Master
Patterns
¡Intermediate ¡Full
Patterns
Toile
¡Final
Patterns
¡Technical
flat drawing
¡Cut
Actual Fabric with Final Patterns
¡Refer
to session plan for progressive workshops
Individual Task – Skirt Project week 4 - info Show and tell skirt design from PMP experiment on small scale block. ● Purpose of this workshop is to produce skirt according to shortlisted design. Therefore, assessment criteria are focus on technical skills, communication and self-management ÷apply appropriate PMPrinciples ÷Annotations ÷Accurate fit and proportion according to design sketch/ TFD ÷Ability to show progress weekly
Individual Task – Skirt Project week 4 - info No assessment criteria of Visual Impact and Aesthetic Appeal However, design must be of a certain level of complexity in order to demonstrate pattern making skill. Begin Drafting Master Pattern ¡All layers and pattern to draft in one master pattern ¡experiment with drafting patterns/ small scale modelling/ paper draping/
Individual Task – Skirt Project week 4 - workshop Individual Task: Skirt Project
Commence Skirt pattern ready for construction 1.Reuse
design from individual experiment from group task 1 or create new design with small scale skirt block 2.
Show and tell with small scale planning:
3.application 4.fit
of PMP
and proportion
5.fabric
swatches
6.seam
finishes (1.5cm close or open seam overlock)
7.waist
finishes (waistband or facing)
8.openings
(exposed / invisible zipper)
9.fastening
(hook and bar)
10.edge
finishing (hemming stitch)
11.accessories
(bias tape, trimmings etc)
Individual Task: Begin individual skirt pattern with tracing from block to draft Master Patterns
Individual Task – Skirt Project week 5 - workshop 1..Create Intermediate pattern with pattern making principles - Cut
and stitch full toile of skirt 2.Annotate full toiles with stitching / finishes instructions and
communication 3.Draft Intermediate Patterns with application of PMP and cut
calico to stitch full toile ¡1.5
cm seam allowance at waist, side seam, center back (CB) and any other seams created. ¡Hemline
seam allowance depends on finishes decision
4.Annotate full toiles with instructions and communication
(finishes, SG, CF, CB, Notches, Drill Holes, Cut Piece, etc) 5.Draw Technical Flat Drawing (TFD) of your skirt design 6.Complete TFD with technical pen (0.3 and 0.8) 7.Record information of cutting (calculate amount of calico needed
and fabric width with layout of intermediate patterns)
Individual Task – Skirt Project week 6 - workshop
Skirt Project Continued: - Create Intermediate pattern with pattern making principles - Cut and stitch full toile of dress - Annotate full toiles with instructions and communication
Individual Task – Skirt Project week 7 - workshop Skirt Project Continued ¡Tutorial
and Evaluation accuracy between full toile, technical flat drawings and patterns ¡review
between full toile, technical flats and intermediate patterns ¡put
the full toile on dress stand to evaluate
÷Fit ÷Proportion ÷Finishes
Details
÷Annotations
¡confirm
evaluation to proceed to Final Patterns
Individual Task – Skirt Project week 8 - workshop Final Pattern must be ready to cut actual fabric for construction/ sewing ¡Trace another copy from intermediate patterns ¡Complete final skirt pattern ready for construction ¡Complete final skirt patterns ready for construction with appropriate annotations / pattern information ¡Layout and cutting actual fabric for construction ¡ Annotations of Drafting Final Patterns includes: ¡Seam allowances (depends on types of fabric and finishes) ¡Notches (where applicable) ¡Drill holes (apex of darts, dart points at waist) ¡Annotations with markers (SG, CF, CB, Interfacing, Finishes, opening/closure, Cut Piece, Piece Number, top stitches) ¡ Cut out Final Patterns includes seam allowances
Individual Task – Skirt Project week 8 - workshop Cutting actual Fabric ¡ Cut out Final Patterns includes seam allowances Preparation before cutting actual fabric ¡Iron actual fabric ¡Iron interfacing for waistband or facing Fold actual fabric in half according to Straight Grain (SG) Layout and pin final patterns on actual fabric Cut with fabric scissors Trace punch point, notches and seam lines(where necessary)
Week 4 - Small Scale Planning - Master Pattern
28/01/2016 I started with making the small scale planning. The small scale planning include master pattern and intermediate pattern. It also need to include all of the annotation so it can be easier for me to make the actual scale
MASTER PATTERN
Made the Master Pattern with the actual scale. Master pattern must be completed with annotation - straight grain - CF-CP - on-fold - number of pieces
Week 5 - Intermediate Pattern and Toile Make the intermediate pattern - Intermediate pattern has to included annotation; Straight grain On-fold - CF and CB - Notches (at CF, CB, side and other notches - Number and name of pieces - Number of pieces to be cut
04/02/2016
In intermediate pattern you also have applying the 5 PMP - Add volume There are 2 types of add volume in my pattern - Pleat on the piece 2/21 and 3/21 - Godet (pieces 6/21, 7/21, 8/21, 9/21, 10/21, 11/21, 12/21, 13/21, 14/21, 15/21, 16/21, 17/21, 18/21, 19/21)
- Pivot the dart -
- Fold the calico on the straight grain (a selvage meet the other selvage) - Lay out all of the pattern on the calico (preparation to make toile) - After that add seam allowance - add seam 1.5 cm seam allowance on the CB seam - add seam 1 cm seam allowance on the other seams.
- After that I cut the pattern that I have added seam allowance. When I cut the calico I made sure first whether all of the seam allowance have been right or not.
Week 6 - Intermediate Toile - Full Toile - Trace on the calico by using tracing paper and tracing wheel. - Trace the pattern - The annotation (straight grain, CB-CF, on-fold, notches) - Stitch the full toile. When I stitch the full toile, I make sure that all of the notches met properly
11/02/2016
2
3
STITCH THE TOILE 1. The first thing that I did was close the dart on pattern 1/21 2. I sew pattern 2/21 and 3/21 (the front and back side pleat) 3. After that I sew it with pattern 1/21, which is the pattern 4. I sew the pattern part that I have sewn with pattern 4/21 5. After that sew it with pattern 5/21 6. I sew together the CB seam
Week 7 - Full Toile, Final Pattern - Spec Sheet CONTINUING TO STITCH THE TOILE - After that I start with the godet part. - After I sew all of the godet, I sew the godet part with the other part that I have sewn. - Sew the facing and then finish.
18/02/2016
Right side
Wrong side
After the full toile has finished, I wrote and indicated of the seam finishes and hem line finishes. The seam finishes that I use are open seam overlock for the CB seam and close seam overlock for the other seams. The hem line finishes is double fold hemline (1 cm = 0,5 cm + 0,5 cm)
After make the toile, we have to make final pattern. Final pattern has to include: - Seam allowance - Annotation
-
Straight grain On-fold CF and CB Number and name of pieces Number of pieces to be cut Notches (with notcher) Drill hole
SPEC SHEET
Behind this
Week 8 - Consultation and Evaluation
03/03/2016
Mr Chew asked us to show all of our complete work to him to be consulted. From the consultation; - Mr. Chew asked me to fix the technical drawing - Mr. Chew asked me to change the hem line to 1 cm so (0,5+0,5 cm) because there is curve part. - There are some part that I forgot to notch with notcher on final pattern and drill hole
CUTTING ACTUAL FABRIC
I use to colors of fabric, dark blue and purple. First I cut the blue fabric. I use fabric with Width : 150 cm Length : 75 cm
After that, I cut the purple Width : 150 cm Length : 60 cm
I cut pattern 15/21, 16/21, 17/21, and 18/21 twice to get 4 pieces each.
Week 9 - Assessment At week 9, I have assessment for this project. For this assessment, I have to had finished all of the elements that are needed (Small scale planning, Master pattern, intermediate pattern, full toile, final pattern, specsheet and technical drawing). All of those has to be put in an envelope, except the specsheet and technical drawing must be paste on the envelope.
ISSUE & PROBLEM
- I have a problem when made the pattern for the godet part. However, I found a good book called “Fabric Manipulation� that provided the explanation and pattern for godet. I follow the instruction from the book, and I try to make. After that, I arranged a consultation with Mr. Chew and happily, Mr. Chew confirmed the pattern - I also have problem when sewing the godet part. The godet part have many patterns and a little bit confusing.
CONCLUSION & REFLECTION Overall, the skirt look quite nice. However, I think the godet part looks too much. And the skirt also look too small for the mannequin From this lesson, I have learned - The 5 PMP and how to apply it especially for variation of add volume (pleat. godet) - I know the basic way of cutting pattern on the fabric, how the direction should be - Know more about Pattern making language (salvage, straight grain, fabric width, fabric length). Perhaps, it’s because I make pattern by myself