Wine Travel Food October 2015

YEAR 20 N. 89 - OCTOBER 2015

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD ®

www.gamberorosso.it

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COVER STORY 26 | Vini d’Italia Tre Bicchieri 2016 Gambero Rosso’s classic award for the best wines in Italy, Tre Bicchieri, this year was bestowed on 421 great bottles. We list and describe them all here.

A sign of the times and Italy’s winemaking talent: about 25% of these labels sell for 10 euros or less at the winery. (Keep this list with you at all times!)

FOOD 18 | Street Food See Venice at its best in the fall, when the lagoon’s softshell crabs come into their own.

65 | Chefs share their recipes Riccardo Camanini, brilliant chef on Lake Garda, prepares food that speaks to the heart, mind and palate. A lifetime of experience is embodied in each dish. Four recipes and four wines to pair with them.

october 2015 2

OCTOBER 2015

19

69

“Wine pricing is an art like painting.”

Joe Bastianich

55

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TRAVEL 55 | Lake Garda Special An immense expanse of water shapes the ecosystem, climate and culture of a great swathe of northern Italy. The province of Brescia and its coast offers top Y]ITQ\a _QVM Å[P KPMM[M IVL M^MV WTQ^M WQT

NEWS & MORE 4 | Editorials 6 | News 14 | Italians abroad: Mauricio Zillo in Paris 20 | Wine of the month 21 | Twitter dixit 22 | Decanters 24 | Pairing Lab 72 | Letter from Paris

3 OCTOBER 2015

EDITORIAL

COMMON CARE FOR OUR VINEYARDS As we have every year since 1987, we finished work on our guide, Vini d’Italia, and we officially presented it in Rome, on October 17. We’ll give you all the crucial details in this issue of our magazine. And, just like every year, it has been a massive project that took our group, over 60 people, around Italy, tasting wines from Valle d’Aosta in the Alps to Pantelleria in the extreme south. We visited wine territories and wineries for over five months. A fascinating experience, it brought us to very well-known zones that are always on the map of wine enthusiasts, such the Langa, Valpolicella, Bolgheri and Montalcino, but also to emerging territories, terroirs that are little known even in their own regions. Again this year we met new growers and saw new wineries open. We tasted thousands and thousands of bottles, the products of the efforts of small and big producers, all of whom look after their vineyards every day. We saw vineyards cultivated with intelligence and increasing respect, less exploited as mere production tools, more cared for with one basic idea: winemaking isn’t only about producing an economic asset; above all it aims to give a voice to the earth.

For our winegrowers, it means maintaining an environment, keeping it from being abandoned, giving space to the thousand varieties of grapes in our tradition, to biodiversity. It means living in the countryside, even in difficult zones, those that the prevailing industrial agriculture of monocultures (which require only occasional hu-

man labor) can’t exploit with satisfying margins of profit. It means creating wineries that are more and more ecologically sustainable, in terms of both energy and ethics. This kind of viticulture creates jobs, repopulates the countryside, experiments with growing methods that are closer to nature, and is less and less dependent on energy from fossil fuels. A process of relocalization is taking place, after decades of flight from the farm. The process is favoring the permanent integration of a nonItalian labor force, and whether they are refugees from war zones or economic migrants hardly matters. I don’t think that any of this was planned, except in a few rare cases. But it is happening.

Italian winegrowers are in the forefront of caring for our common home. Have they all read Pope Francesco’s second encyclical about looking after the planet, “Laudato Si”? Probably not, but they are putting into practice the teachings of Rome’s bishop, a leader who also knows how to reason like a good country priest.

On the margins of all this, in recent days one of the umpteen scandals exploded that besmirched the good name of Italian wine. In Friuli (but not only), a number of producers are under investigation for presumed illegal practices during the vinifying of Sauvignon. For this reason, we have decided to suspend our judgments in the guide on the wines being investigated until the entire issue has been clarified.

Marco Sabellico 4

OCTOBER 2015

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NEWS

THE EXPO WINE LIBRARY WELCOMED OVER 1.5 MILLION VISITORS. CEO Mantovani: “Mission accomplished” Close to 2 million visitors, of which 20% were foreigners, 3,600 labels, 2,000 wineries. 460 events: These are the numbers reported from May through September (with one more month to go) by the Expo pavilion dedicated to the Italian viticulture experience, A Taste of 1\ITa ___ ^QVW Q\ 1\ _I[ \PM ÅZ[\ XI^QTQWV QV \PM history of Universal Expositions completely devoted to wine. “The impact goes beyond the numbers. There is enormous cultural interest in our wine production and

in the territories of origin, on the part of both Italian and foreign visitors,” commented Ettore Riello, VeroVIÅMZM XZM[QLMV\ ¹5Q[[QWV IKKWUXTQ[PML º [\I\ML >MZWVIÅMZM +-7 /QW^IVVQ 5IV\W^IVQ ¹?M IKPQM^ML ITT \PM WJRMK\Q^M[ _M [M\ W]Z[MT^M[ M^MV NWZ \PM ;KQMV\QÅK Committee.” A month remains to reach the 2 million goal. Considering tickets already sold for the coming weeks, the overall goal for the Expo, 20 million visitors, shouldn’t be mission impossible.

Gambero Rosso and Università IULM join to open the Città del gusto of Milano

<]M[LIa 7K\WJMZ /QW^IVVQ 8]OTQ[Q 8ZM[QLMV\ WN \PM =VQ^MZ[Q\a 1=45 WN 5QTIVW IVL 8IWTW +]KKQI 8ZM[QLMV\ WN /IUJMZW :W[[W PI^M M[\IJTQ[PML I TQUQ\ML TQIJQTQ\a KWUXIVa ¹+Q\\o LMT /][\W · 1=45 Milano”. The partners own equal shares of the KQ\a¼[ NQZ[\ +Q\\o LMT /][\W <PM ! [Y]IZM UM\MZ space will be dedicated to professional training but also to enthusiasts who want to deepen their understanding of quality wine and food. The new facilities, although located inside the Libera Università di Lingue Comunicazione IULM, will be open to all, not just students and those regularly registered at the university. The Master program and specialized courses on communication and wine/food journalism, organized by the Università IULM in partner[PQX _Q\P /IUJMZW :W[[W _QTT WNNMZ IV QVVW^I\Q^M training approach, both theoretical and practical, designed to guarantee advanced-level preparation with a curriculum constantly in alignment with modern technology. Similar courses are available in Rome and Naples.

6

OCTOBER 2015

ITALY PASSES FRANCE AS TOP WINE PRODUCER 7^MZ \PM TI[\ NM_ LIa[ \ZQ]UXPIV\ headlines appeared in Italian newspapers, celebrating Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s victory over France in the annual competition for top wine producer. According to the estimates of the European Commission, the Italian 2015 harvest was larger than that of its cousQV IKZW[[ \PM )TX[ 1\ITa _Q\P ! million hectolitres, should therefore go up a step in the ranking of world wine producers, while France will be in second place with 46.5 millions of hectolitres, the result of a fall in production of about 1% compared to 2014. In this duel, the role of the third wheel falls to Spain, which in any case is way behind, with only 36.6 million hectolitres. Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tri-

umph this year is the happy result of 2015â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weather conditions, which were particularly favourable for optimum grape maturation in many territories around the peninsula.

France, on the other hand, suffered through an overheated year that led to a fall in production in important zones such as Beaujolais (- 25%) and Burgundy (-11%). Aside from the soccer-style headlines in many newspapers, the most important number, about which less was said, is another: exports of Italian wine in the Ă&#x2026;Z[\ [MUM[\MZ _MZM JWWUQVO _Q\P I growth in value of 6.5%, 2.52 billion

M]ZW[ NWZ I ^WT]UM WN ! UQTTQWV hectolitres. Italy is growing slightly more quickly than France, which saw its exports increase in value by 6.2%. The total value, however, of French wine exports is considerably more than Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s: France exported UQTTQWV PMK\WTQ\ZM[ QV \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ [Mmester of 2015, for a value of 3.6 billion euros. France may export less in quantity, but the value of their exports is considerably greater.

Vignerons fight high velocity trains THE NO-TAV OF SAUTERNES Bordeaux producers are on the warpath against the decision of the French government to allow the buildQVO WN PQOP ^MTWKQ\a \ZIQV </> TQVM[ to connect the region with Toulouse and Dax, a plan announced by the French minister of transport, Alain >QLITQM[ <PM 6W <I^ OZW]X WN winegrowers or vignerons, besides purely environmental questions, are concerned about their Sauternes production. The projected railroad would go through the valley in which the Ciron runs, a river that helps create the microclimate crucial to local production. Early morning fog favors the development of noble rot, the JMVMĂ&#x2026;KQIT UWTL QVLQ[XMV[IJTM NWZ KZMating the so-called Sauternes miracle.

But on the other side, also at stake is the projected fast connection between 8IZQ[ IVL \PM [W]\P_M[\MZV XIZ\ WN \PM country, three hours from Toulouse to

the capital city, for an estimated cost WN Ă&#x2026;^M JQTTQWV M]ZW[ @I^QMZ 8TIV\a president of the group defending the )7+ WN ;I]\MZVM[ IVL \PM W_VMZ WN +Pp\MI] /QZI]L [\I\M[ š<PM ZW]\M of the rail line would damage the cradle of our production, the valley 7 OCTOBER 2015

of the Ciron. It could be the end of W]Z )7+ Âş *]\ IN\MZ \PM LMKQ[QWV WN the French government, the vignerons can only appeal to the Supreme Court of Bordeaux. The winegrowers are also ready to turn to the European Court of Justice.

NEWS

WHEN IT PAYS TO BE CERTIFIED: for farms and food industries, exports soar between 2007-2014

Six million euros for a mini-vineyard American buys prize-winning Montalcino Cerbaiona

*erano possibili piĂš risposte | Fonte: indagine Accredia-Censis 2015

Certifying food products is another way of improving export /IZa :QM[KPMT IV )UMZQKIV _QVM KWTTMKnumbers: 84% of businesses believe that certifying a product tor and venture capital investor, recently improves their companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reputation. A survey of about 1,000 purchased the renowned Cerbaiona estate KMZ\QĂ&#x2026;ML MV\MZXZQ[M[ KWVL]K\ML Ja )KKZMLQI \PM WVTa 1\ITQIV for 6.000,000 euros: 1.6 hectares of pregovernment-designated agency for accreditation, in collaboramium sangiovese for Brunello, 1.4 hectares tion with Censis, an Italian socio-economic research organizaof grapes for Rosso di Montalcino and tion, found that despite the ongoing economic crisis, export-re+MZJIQWVI 1/< XT][ I [XTMVLQL ^QTTI <PM TI\ML JQTTQVO QVKZMI[ML Ja VQVM XWQV\[ NZWU QV \W _QVMZa _I[ NW]VLML QV ! Ja M` )TQ\ITQI QV IVL \PM Y]W\I WN M`XWZ\[ LQZMK\Ta ZMNMZIJTM \W KMZ\QĂ&#x2026;ML pilot Diego Molinari. His Brunello quickly XZWL]K\[ ZW[M \W š+MZ\QĂ&#x2026;KI\QWVÂş [IQL /Q][MXXM :W[[Q )Kbecame an award-winning benchmark for credia president, â&#x20AC;&#x153;ensures greater competitivity,â&#x20AC;? especially, he quality in the zone, with only 8,000 bottles ILLML NWZ ,78 1/8 IVL WZOIVQK XZWL]K\[ )KKWZLQVO \W \PM produced annually. Now 80 years old, Mo[]Z^Ma UWZM \PIV WVM KWUXIVa QV \PZMM [\I\ML \PI\ \PMa TQVIZQ PI[ [WTL PQ[ RM_MT \W IVW\PMZ _QVM IĂ&#x2026;PIL OZW_V L]ZQVO \PM Ă&#x2026;VIVKQIT KZQ[Q[ _PQTM KWVĂ&#x2026;ZUML cionado, setting a new price record for the PWTLQVO [\MILa .WZ \PM [MKWVL [MUM[\MZ WN NWZMzone.

[I_ I OZW_\P QV QVKWUM [I_ a stable near-term future. Looking HOW TO GO ABROAD (%) forward to the next three years, the optimists grew to 41.6% and those who foresaw stability were at 40.8%.

3.2 Joint venture/partnership with foreign companies ?PI\ _MZM \PM UW[\ [QOVQĂ&#x2026;KIV\ XPMnomena impacting the food business 3.4 Producersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; associations/cooperatives in the last three years? For those interviewed, the prime factors were a growth in the appeal of Made-in3.6 Chain stores Italy products (36.3%), the introL]K\QWV WN VM_ ZMO]TI\QWV[ ! the consolidation of relationships in 5.7 ICE the food industry production chain (25.5%), increased international competition (25.3%) and the growth 6.6 Chamber of commerce of the role of large distribution chains (21.1%). The controls on Ital8.5 Consortium ian food production (number one in \PM -= NWZ ,78 1/8 KMZ\QĂ&#x2026;KI\QWV[ _Q\P NWWL[ IVL _QVM[ IZM 9.8 Other IUWVO \PM UW[\ MNĂ&#x2026;KIKQW][ 7VTa 0.4% of food products examined presented chemical residues above 12.5 Consultants permitted limits, compared to the EU average of 1.5% and the world 71.3 Independently - no one helped I^MZIOM WN !

8 OCTOBER 2015

Healthy teeth and no cavities: 2000 years ago, in Pompeii, people ate well .

A CAT-scan proves it.

2015/2016

1V ! ) , 5W]V\ >M[]^Q][ MZ]X\ML IVL J]ZQML 8WUXMQQ KW^MZQVO \PM city with a layer of ash, lava and stone, plunging it into an eternal sleep in the middle of a quiet April morning. The most vivid images of the catastrophe that killed thousands of people are the plaster casts of the ash-buried bodies that are now one of the principal attractions of the archeological site. New techniques are shedding light on the customs IVL PIJQ\[ WN 8WUXMQQ¼[ KQ\QbMV[ +)< [KIV[ KWUX]\MZQbML I`QIT \WUWOraphy) of about thirty plaster casts from the area were carried out by a specialized team working with the Superintendency for the ArchaeologiKIT 0MZQ\IOM WN 6IXTM[ IVL 8WUXMQQ <PM [\]La _PQKP XMZUQ\[ \PM QV[QLM of the plaster casts to be visualized, has revealed the age, sex, health, [WKQIT KTI[[ IVL W\PMZ LM\IQT[ IJW]\ \PM ^QK\QU[ 7Z\PWLWV\Q[\[ ^QM_QVO \PM QUIOM[ _MZM IJTM \W LM\MZUQVM SMa QVNWZUI\QWV IJW]\ 8WUXMQIV MI\ing habits: their excellent teeth were the result of a principally vegetarian LQM\ _Q\P TQ\\TM []OIZ I[ _MTT I[ \PM IUW]V\ WN Æ]WZQVM VI\]ZITTa XZM[MV\ in the air and water near the volcano.

2015 OCTOBER

28 october SEOUL

Roadshow

worldtour

Vini d’Italia

trebicchieri

30 october TOKYO

trebicchieri

19 november MOSCOW

trebicchieri

30 november ZÜRICH

Vini d’Italia

DECEMBER

tour 2015/2016 2016 JANUARY

18

january

STOCKHOLM Vini d’Italia

2 november SHANGHAI

21 march

may

NEW YORK

SYDNEY

trebicchieri

trebicchieri

may

11 february

APRIL

SAN FRANCISCO

19 january

trebicchieri

Vini d’Italia

SEATTLE

OSLO

2 december NOVEMBER

9 february

16 february Roadshow

WARSAW

january

Vini d’Italia

MUNICH

SPECIAL EVENT PRESENTATION GUIDE

Vini d’Italia

MARCH

trebicchieri

FEBRUARY

12 march

4 november

4 february

DÜSSELDORF

trebicchieri

trebicchieri

HONG KONG

CHICAGO

INFO: SEGRETERIA.ESTERO@GAMBEROROSSO.IT

Vini d’Italia

4 april SÃO PAULO Roadshow

TOKYO

SPECIAL EVENT PRESENTATION GUIDE

Vini d’Italia

BEIJING

JUNE june

VANCOUVER trebicchieri

MAY

16 may

SINGAPORE Roadshow

18 may

BANGKOK Roadshow

june

TORONTO trebicchieri june

MOSCOW

SPECIAL EVENT PRESENTATION GUIDE

Vini d’Italia

NEWS

MACFRUT: The Italian fruit and vegetable fair is an international success From September 23-25, at the Rimini Expo Center, Cesena Fiera organized the 32nd edition of MacFrut - more exhibitors than ever, great public interest, and a look at a future that is more fruit-and-vegetableoriented than today.

Gambero Rosso was there with the Channelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cooking stars and the workshops of the CittĂ del Gusto schools.

The organizers of the 32nd edition of MacFrut, which took place in Rimini this year, reached their OWIT 7^MZ ! ^Q[Q\WZ[ of whom came from outside Italy, crowded into the 33,000 square meters of the Fiera di Riminiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s six pavilions. It was an unprecedented []KKM[[ ¡ TI[\ aMIZ IJW]\ came, and that was considered a great number! Lifestyles and habits are changing. And if on one hand, new eating habits, vegetarianism and veganism above all, lead to a greater consumption of fruit and vegetables, on the other, the unforgiving rhythms of work, the many hours spent outside the home and the diminishing time dedicated to food preparation lead in the opposite direction. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fruit and vegetables are inconvenient to eat,â&#x20AC;? states :MVbW 8QZIKKQVQ XZM[QLMV\ WN +Msena Fiera and of MacFrut. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one reason why the objective of Ă&#x2026;^M XWZ\QWV[ I LIa []OOM[\ML Ja \PM ?WZTL 0MIT\P 7ZOIVQbI\QWV Q[ [\QTT a distant goal.â&#x20AC;? A new approach to \PM [MK\WZ Q[ VMKM[[IZa š?M VMML an innovative thrust that takes in every aspect of the production line, from the production end, with new items such as seedless table grapes, to processing methods that increase safety, environmental and economic sustainability, to packaging that preserves the integrity of the products.

All this helps the public consume more fruit and vegetables, more easily.â&#x20AC;? Foreign countries have contributed to enlarging the range of exhibitors. The number of major foreign delegations present at Mac.Z]\ IUWVO \PMU 8WTIVL -K]Idor, Iran, Mexico and the Dominican Republic, was a positive factor, and all of them were enthusiastic about the excellent results of the 10 OCTOBER 2015

NIQZ 7VM WN \PM UW[\ QV\MZM[\QVO IVL certainly entertaining moments of the event was the Fruit&Veg Fantasy ;PW_ QV _PQKP /IUJMZW :W[[W \ITent showed how fruit and vegetables IZM \PM [W]T WN I OZMI\ K]KQVI /QWZgione, the paradigm of the Italian host, has a strong bond with garden vegetables, the focus of his popular \MTM^Q[QWV [PW_ WV /IUJMZW :W[[W +PIVVMT /QWZOQWVM 7Z\W +]KQVI (Orto means vegetable garden.) Hiro, the chef of Japanese origin who has been in Italy for years, working side by side with Raffaele Alajmo, has VW LW]J\[" š<PM QVĂ&#x2026;VQ\M ^IZQM\a WN fruit and vegetables that nature offers us should attract everyone to these products. The secret is to vary ingredients, play with new pairings WN Ă&#x2020;I^WZ IVL KWTWZ ][M LQNNMZMV\ cuts, new forms, introduce alternative preparation methods (marinades, pickling, drying) and limit the classic ways of cooking that unfortunately can cause the loss of all the basic vitamins.â&#x20AC;?

NEWS

AUSSIE SAGRANTINO? WHEN NATIVE TURNS INTERNATIONAL

Sagrantino is becoming an indigenous-international grape variety. At Enologica, the three days of Montefalco dedicated to the key wine of the territory, held last September in the Umbrian town, the conference entitled ¹5WV\MNITKW ;IOZIV\QVW ,7+/ MVKW]V\MZ[ ;IOZIV\QVW NZWU 7^MZ[MI[º JZW]OP\ \W TQOP\ VM_ IVL QV\MZM[\QVO XMZspectives on the variety’s future. Until a few decades ago, sagrantino was produced mostly as a dried-grape dessert _QVM J]\ QV \PM !! [ I NM_ MVTQOP\MVML OZIXMOZW_MZ[ began to vinify a dry version. That great revolution led \W \PM JQZ\P WN \PM ,7+/ IVL IV QV\MZVI\QWVIT [\IOM NWZ the native wine. Eventually, a few producers decided to try planting the Montefalco variety on other continents · QV +ITQNWZVQI )][\ZITQI 6M_ BMITIVL :MKMV\Ta ZMsearch conducted by the Montefalco Consorzio showed that about thirty wineries use the sagrantino grape to produce their wines and indeed, call it Sagrantino, with the name on the label. The reaction of the Consorzio producers was not what you might expect in cases like this. No one requested the European Union to protect the brand, nor demanded that the overseas producers change the name on their bottles. Instead, the outsiders were invited to participate in the 2015 edition of Enologica and do a comparative tasting. The strategy is simple: encourage Sagrantino out in the world, using the

leverage of international producers. “For us, it’s a way of [XZMILQVO W]Z VIUM º M`XTIQVML )UQTKIZM 8IUJ]NNM\\Q president of the Consorzio. “Basically, foreign production is still quite small and so it’s not much competition. ?M _QTT KWV\QV]M \W XZW\MK\ W]Z JZIVL _Q\PW]\ NWZOM\\QVO the stimuli that can come from outside.” Marco Caprai, from the Arnaldo Caprai winery, agrees. After having ZM TI]VKPML ;IOZIV\QVW QV \PM !! [ PM JMTQM^M[ QV \PQ[ operation. “In the year of Expo, the idea at the basis of the project was to understand how Italian varieties traveled in space and how they continue to do so. The last 30 years have seen Sagrantino develop from a local to a global wine. It’s a dimension that makes it harder to protect the brand, but it could lead to a new way to promote Made in Italy products.” Some with conviction, some perplexed, but at the end, all Montefalco’s producers seem to agree, or at least to have accepted, this [\ZI\MOa ?M I[SML \PM WXQVQWV WN \PM aW]VOMZ UMUJMZ[ WN \PM +WV[WZbQW _PMZM \PMa [MMU \W JM XZMLWUQVIV\ · IV QVLQKI\QWV WN \PM PMIT\P WN \PM ,7+/ ¹,]ZQVO \PM Enologica conference, we tasted the wines from abroad, and they are certainly very different from ours,” said Liù 8IUJ]ZZM\\Q NZWU \PM ;KIKKQILQI^WTQ _QVMZa ¹L]M JW\P \W \PM \MZZQ\WZa QV _PQKP \PMa OZW_ IVL \PMQZ ^QVQÅKI\QWV techniques. Right now we’re not afraid of competition 12

OCTOBER 2015

AMILCARE PAMBUFFETTI

because they are two very different concepts and, above all, because very few wineries are producing Sagrantino IJZWIL º ?M Y]M[\QWVML 8IWTW *IZ\WTWVQ _PW NW]VLML in 2011, one of the newest companies in the territory, Cantina Le Cimate. “Let’s say we made a virtue out of I VMKM[[Q\a ;QVKM _M KW]TLV¼\ ÅOP\ \PM XPMVWUMVWV we decided to make it a vehicle for our own wine,” he \WTL ][ ¹?M [\IZ\ NZWU \_W LQNNMZMV\ IXXZWIKPM[ \W ;Igrantino. In ours, the wine has to age for 36 months, of which 12 are in wood. The wine is ready for release in 4 years. The bottles from abroad are already on the market with the 2013 vintage. Theirs is fresher and lighter and, despite that, has higher prices. But, you know, denominations don’t exist overseas the way we know them here in Italy. The market logic is different.” Australian XZWL]KMZ 3QU +PITUMZ[ +PITUMZ[ ?QVM IT[W QV[Q[\ML on the difference between the two wines. She presented her two versions of Sagrantino. “For us, these are not reproductions, but rather interpretations,” she observed. ¹?M IZM I_IZM \PI\ _M KIV¼\ ZMIKP \PM [IUM Y]ITQ\a WZ IV MY]IT [XMKQÅKQ\a QV W]Z \MZZQ\WZa º :MXZWL]K\QWV WZ ZMQVterpretation, one question is legitimate: isn’t there a risk of creating confusion in the consumer about the nature WN ;IOZIV\QVW' ¹?M¼TT [MM º IV[_MZML *IZ\WTWVQ ¹)\ \PM moment, the path followed by the Consorzio is ‘as long

as they talk about us’ ”. Right or wrong, time will tell. It’s a new way of facing the question of ‘Italian-sounding’. ?PQTM 8ZW[MKKW IVL 4IUJZ][KW R][\ \W UMV\QWV \_W I\\MUX\ \W ÅOP\ \PM XPMVWUMVWV ;IOZIV\QVW Q[ \ZaQVO \W ride the wave.

by Loredana Sottile

13 OCTOBER 2015

NEWS

by Antonella De Santis

Mauricio Zillo: My A Mere in Paris An Italian from South America is making news in the Paris restaurant world.

A few months after the opening, Mauricio Zillo, ex-chef of Rebelot del Pont in Milano, tells us about his A Mere.

It’s happened again…this time, from Milano, direction 8IZQ[ ¹-^MZaWVM PMZM \PQVS[ 1¼U 1\ITQIV º [Ia[ 5I]ZQKQW BQTTW *ZIbQTQIV _Q\P I 6MIXWTQ\IV [W]T IV 1\ITQIV NIUQTa IVL XI[[XWZ\ \WW ?Q\P \PM M`XMZQMVKM I\ :MJMTW\ LMT 8WV\ WV 5QTIVW¼[ KIVIT[ JMPQVL PQU 5I]ZQKQW RWQV[ \PM ZIVS[ WN []KKM[[N]T 1\ITQIV[ QV 8IZQ[ <PZMM UWV\P[ IN\MZ the opening, A Mere is doing well, although it started quietly in order to work calmly and have a breaking-in period. “A French kitchen, lightened by the sun of southern 1\ITa º Q[ PW_ [WUMWVM LMÅVML PQ[ _WZS 5I]ZQKQW \MTT[ us. He focuses on simple preparations in which he spotlights the product. “I use Italian ingredients only if there’s something really good, and that happens rarely. Here I can’t go to the market the way I did in Milano, so I work with sources that understand what we need for our cuciVI º 0M XTIa[ _Q\P ÆI^WZ[ IVL KWV\ZI[\[ ¹[WUM\PQVO \PI\ apparently the French are not used to,” he says, adding, ¹1V \PMZM _MZMV¼\ UIVa 1\ITQIV[ 1\¼[ VW\ TQSM \PI\ anymore. Since I always want to do something different from what I see around me, I opted for cooking that was more French.” For the same reason, he didn’t keep the tapas concept from Rebelot. “Here in France, little plates

are very popular, but I’m tired of them.” So portions in the new place are normal, even abundant, like “those in your mamma’s kitchen,” he adds. The menu is minuscule: three choices for each course, varying often. It seems like I JQ[\ZW\ WZ ITUW[\ J]\ \PMZM¼[ VW XZQ` Å`M ¹<PI\ LWM[V¼\ _WZS IVaUWZM ?M PI^M \W OQ^M \PM KTQMV\[ \PMQZ [Ia <PMa choose a restaurant, they choose us, and we must listen \W _PI\ \PMa TQSM º 8IZQ[ Q[ KZIba IJW]\ [MKZM\ QVOZMLQMV\[ as they call certain unexpected products, such as smoked eel or oysters or a meat fond in a chocolate dessert. “It’s not a question of which ingredients you put in a dish, but _PI\ ÆI^WZ[ \PMa PI^M 1V \PM MMT 1 _I[ TWWSQVO NWZ \PM smokiness, in the oyster, the iodine. Subtle notes that I was interested in capturing.” So no imposing or obligating, no fashion or paranoia: “By following trends, you forget to be logical. You don’t decide for yourself.” But why the name A Mere, we ask. “In that name, we hint at the sea, la mer, which is very present, perhaps only to add complexity to dishes, and to bitterness, amere in French, which is a ÆI^WZ \PI\ .ZMVKP K]Q[QVM LQLV¼\ IKKMX\ I\ WVM \QUM J]\ we also are suggesting mamma’s cooking, la mere.” He is, after all, still an Italian boy.

14

OCTOBER 2015

Vineyard for Vineyard.

Wine for Wine. www.kellerei-kurtatsch.it

EVENTS

PROSECCO TASTING IN TOKYO RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL | TOKYO MID-TOWN 9-7 | 1 AKASAKA MINATO – KU OCTOBER 29, 2015 MASTERCLASS 8IZS >QM_ :WWU . [\ ÆWWZ 02:00 – 04:00 pm OCTOBER 30, 2015 TASTING *ITTZWWU VL ÆWWZ 12:00 – 06:00 pm

The world’s most popular spumante is coming to Tokyo. The beautiful reception rooms of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel will host, on October 29th at 2pm (14.00), a masterclass led by Marco Sabellico, Senior Editor of the Gambero Rosso guide, Vini d’Italia.

This prestigious publication has been showing the world the many facets of Italian wine for 29 years. It will be an unmissable opportunity to experience the varied productive souls and styles behind an amazing wine that takes its name from an ancient town in the province of Trieste.

Prosecco comes from a picturesque land in northeastern Italy, on the

border between Veneto and Friuli, two beautiful regions. Close to both the Alps and the Adriatic Sea, they are extraordinarily well-suited for winegrowing. Here the glera grape ÆW]ZQ[PML M^MV JMNWZM :WUIV times, and has always produced excellent wines.

In the 20th century, this variety encountered modern technology and became the spumante that can convey Italy to the world. Over 8,000 grapegrowers, 356 spumante wineries and more than 300 million bottles produced annually bring a value of 1.4 billion euros to the zone.

Day after day, even outside the na16 OCTOBER 2015

tion’s borders, this success grows, and exports absorb 70% of production, a value of 980 million euros. Extremely delicate, fragrant, light and amazingly inviting, Prosecco is produced in a variety of styles that make it suitable for every occasion.

To give a more complete picture of the many facets of Prosecco, the Consortium (Consorzio di Tutela) and Gambero Rosso will offer a tasting corner, on October 30th, from 12 to 6pm (18.00), where the wines will speak for themselves.

We look forward to toasting you with the most famous Italian sparkling wine in the world.

are pleased to invite you to

Tasting Prosecco DOC in Tokyo 29-30 OCTOBER 2015

29 OCTOBER

Park View Room 1F(1 Floor) st

02.00 – 04.00 pm MASTERCLASS

30 OCTOBER

Ballroom (2nd Ühhk" 12:00 – 6:00 pm TASTING

THE RITZ – CARLTON TOKYO Tokyo Mid Town 9-7 1 Akasaka Minato – Ku

RESERVATION REQUIRED CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REGOLAMENTO CE N. 1308/13 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO CE REGULATION NO. 1308/13

Please RSVP to gamberorosso@asahiagency.com

STREET FOOD

by Pina Sozio photography by Paolo Della Corte

Autumn on the Lagoon It’s the perfect moment for Venice.

Wander the alleyways, stopping for bar snacks and soft shell crabs, cicheti and moeche.

In November, Venice has its off season: a little more rain, a few degrees chillier, tourist numbers way down.

Yet this is just the moment when the city seems most captivating to us and more available to show its charms to its admirers. The Architecture Biennale (www.labiennale. org) is still on, so Venice is generous with its art wonders and never disappoints food fans. <PW[M _PW TQSM Å[P IVL [MINWWL come in this period because of the lagoon, where soft shell crabs, unavailable elsewhere, rule local tables. The crab becomes a moeca after it loses its shell but before the new one has a chance to build up, 18 OCTOBER 2015

when the green Mediterranean crab reaches the peak of its molting phase. This takes place in autumn, between October and November and again in the spring, between March and April. Fishing for these lagoon delicacies is a serious business in Burano, Giudecca and Chioggia. Fishermen, having caught the crabs with a special net spread WV \PM [PITTW_ [MI ÆWWZ [MXIZI\M \PMU NZWU W\PMZ Å[P XTIKQVO \PMU in jute bags. Those close to molting are divided from those still needing more time, chosen by the expert eyes of the molecanti. They are monitored twice a day to catch the moment when they shed their shell

OSTERIA DEL CASON

and before they form a new one – a matter of hours. Without a shell, they are tender and totally edible.

To buy moeche, together with other products of the lagoon, visit the traLQ\QWVIT Å[P UIZSM\ ]VLMZ \PM :QIT\W bridge, the perfect stage for viewing the Venetian scene. Nearby is an historic place to try the little dishes called cicheti with wine by the glass, Osteria del Ca’ d’Oro, or Alla Vedova. Owned by the same family for generations, it has always been a magnet for Venetians and tourists. Eat at the counter and choose from a selection of tasty little plates, UW[\Ta Å[P" IUWVO \PMU IZM JIKcalà mantecato, (salted cod mousse),

baby octopus with celery, marinated sardines, and the renowned house meatballs. Besides being a place for snacking, a bacaro, Alla Vedova is also a trattoria, with many typical dishes and a warm atmosphere.

Nearby, at San Polo, the Osteria del +I[WV Q[ IVW\PMZ XTIKM NWZ Å[P IÅcionados. A branch of an historic restaurant in Mestre, this location has a typical Venetian ambiance, a handsome cicheti counter and a menu that includes scallops, cuttleÅ[P QV Q\[ QVS _Q\P XWTMV\I IVKPWvies cooked with vinegar (sardoni alla greca NZQML Å[P IVL UWZM# ITT this with a charming view over a quiet canal.

ADDRESSES VENICE MERCATO DI RIALTO SAN POLO, 92/93 WWW.RIALTOVENEZIA.COM OSTERIA ALLA VEDOVA VIA RAMO DEL CÀ D’ORO TEL. 041 5285324 OSTERIA DEL CASON CALLE DEL CRISTO (FONDAMENTA DEL FORNER) SAN POLO, 2925 TEL. 041 2440060 WWW.OSTERIADELCASON.IT 19 OCTOBER 2015

WINE OF THE MONTH

Taurasi 2008: an unmissable vintage Taurasi V. Olmo Riserva '08 DI MEO 30,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 16.80 euros The wines made by Generoso and Roberto di Meo are notable for their essential, austere style. They require a good deal of patience and long bottle-aging to express all their tasting potential. Don’t be surprised, therefore, if some Fiano labels will be offered even 10 years after harvesting. The results are impressive, and demonstrate the capacity to acquire complexity over time of a variety that has not been fully appreciated on a global level. The range of the winery, launched in 1986, is very broad and constantly evolving. Among the reds, this Taurasi stands out. Its grapes come from vineyards located 650 meters above sea level in the uppermost zone of Montemarano, in Campania. Vigna Olmo is the highest piece of property in the Montemarano zone and Taurasi Riserva ’08 is its happy interpretation. It presents elegantly with scents of antique roses, freshly-ground pepper and medicinal herbs: the fruit is perfectly mature and juicy. Graceful on the palate, it unfurls silky tannins, grip, and is incisive, savory, and more than usually persistent in the mouth.

The most perfect food pairing is a legume and dried chestnut soup, a dish typical of 1ZXQVQI¼[ \ZILQ\QWV[ WZ MT[M I N]TT ÆI^WZML meat stew, such as wild boar with prunes.

20 OCTOBER 2015

TWITTER dixit PureVino

Jon Thorsen

“Spilling your drink is the adult equivalent of letting your balloon go”.

Bill Murray

;]KP I ÅVM TQVM

Kovas 50StatesOfWine

Come on wine...do your job

Jamie Goode

I like wine, but I don’t think you should drink wine in a pub. Pubs are for beer.

James Suckling

I think 2011 Barolo is a better overall vintage V.S. 2010, which was a slightly overhyped year.

Social Vignerons

The EVIL Side of Wine.

Lorenzo Ruggeri

What???

21 OCTOBER 2015

@James Suckling

FOOD & DESIGN

DECANTERS

Not just a pretty face Made of pure crystal or crystalline glass, even in gold and silver, produced in the most intriguing and varied shapes, the decanter is an aesthetic object, beautiful as well as functional. The evolved soul of a carafe, the decanter assures the wine perNMK\ W`aOMVI\QWV <aXQKITTa I _QLM Ă&#x2020;I\ JI[M ITTW_[ \PM []ZNIKM WN \PM _QVM \PM OZMI\est contact with oxygen. A narrow, long neck prevents aromas from escaping, but also keeps oxygen from entering too quickly and compromising proper evolution.

Although modern use is growing, the decanter already existed in the 2nd century B.C.. The lagynos was an antique pottery decanter with a long narrow neck, funnel mouth and a large body, wide shoulders and a vertical handle that guaranteed a correct grip for service during festive banquets. In 1700, Johann Christoph Riedel, an Austrian artisan, made exquisite decanters in crystal, experimenting with shapes and materials. But in 1723, Riedel was tragically murdered, leaving a wife and three children to tend the great crystal workshop he had founded. Today the Riedels are a

RIEDEL. AMEDEO

ETIENNE MENEAU. GRAND COEUR

BRAGAGNOLO ARGENTI. FINE WINE TASTING

powerful industrial family, now in the 11th generation. They offer unconventional and unique decanter designs, with sinuous shapes of sculptural beauty. Amadeo, for example, has an elegant lyre form, and is the most majestic in the collection. The decanter is produced in a limited series of 100 pieces per year and no mold is used in its manufacture. Cornetto nero is of black crystal, and challenges the taster’s capacity to recognize the wine without any visual clues. Swedish designer Matilda Sundén Ringnér, in collaboration with Skurf Glass Works, created Rain Man, a decanter shaped like a bottle, but with no neck. Strategically placed holes on the side allow the wine to pour into the glass like a gentle rain.

The Danish company MENU, founded in 1976, designed the clever Winebreather, a decanter with a special top inserted into its neck that grips the neck of the wine bottle and aerates the liquid as the wine bottle empties. The wine can then be served from the decanter or poured back into the bottle to be served. Artist and sculptor Etienne Meneau made a series of decanters like works of art and created in limited editions of eight pieces each, with six or seven different variations. For example, Grand Coeur, a little reproduction of a heart, can contain 20 cl. of wine. and costs 1,500 euros. Fine Wine Tasting is an ItalLAGYNOS FROM THE GEOMETRIC PERIOD. 8 CENTURY BC ian series, made by Bragagnolo Argenti with the collaboration of Luca Gardini, world champion sommelier in 2010. The decanters, one in gold and the other in silver, are sleekly elegant tableware, and also, thanks to the charIK\MZQ[\QK[ WN \PM[M UM\IT[ MVPIVKM \PM IZWUI[ IVL ÆI^WZ[ WN \PM _QVM[ These are only a few examples of decanters that ennoble the art of ser^QKM IVL KWV^Q^QITQ\a _PQTM ZMÅVQVO \PM \MKPVQY]M[ WN LMKIV\QVO <PM purchase and use of decanters has become indispensable for true wine lovers. Christian Moueix, owner of Château Pétrus, producer of the celebrated Pétrus, considered one of the greatest Bordeaux, explains, “I prefer to decant wines, both young and old.

1\ Q[ I [QOV WN ZM[XMK\ NWZ WTL _QVM[ IVL I [QOV WN KWVÅLMVKM in young wines. Decanting old wines, just a few moments before they are served, helps to ensure that the wines’ clarity and brilliance are not obscured by any deposit that may have developed over time. Decanting young wines several hours before they are served gives the wine a chance to bloom and attain a stage of development that normally requires years of aging.”

by Stefania Annese TH

RIEDEL. CORNETTO NERO

23 OCTOBER 2015

SPECIAL WINE

PAIRING

drawing by Chiara Buosi

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

fettuccine with Porcini mushrooms

Etna Rosso V. Barbagalli ’12 PIETRADOLCE

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

San Daniele prosciutto Collio Friulano ’14 SCHIOPETTO

ANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

herb-stuffed guinea hen breast Franciacorta Dosage Zéro Noir Vintage Collection Ris. ’06 CA’ DEL BOSCO

24 OCTOBER 2015

frappato

morellino

AWARDS PAIRING torcetti Valle D’aosta Chambave Moscato Passito Prieuré ’13 LA CROTTA DI VEGNERON

pizza with zucchini flowers and anchovies Falanghina del Sannio Svelato ’14 TERRE STREGATE

salmon carpaccio with anise and orange

INTERNATIONAL

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Cerasuolo Le Cince 2014 DE FERMO 25 OCTOBER 2015

VINI D'ITALIA 2016

by Gianni Fabrizio, Eleonora Guerini and Marco Sabellico

26 OCTOBER 2015

THEYEAR OF

BRUNELLO AND THE SMALL WINE ARTISANS OF ITALY

VINI D'ITALIA 2016 984 PAGES

SOON AVAILABLE IN ENGLISH, GERMAN, CHINESE, JAPANESE

ON WWW.GAMBEROROSSO.IT AND WWW.AMAZON.COM

VINI D'ITALIA 2016

T

Every year, looking over the final list of Tre Bicchieri awards, we try to draw conclusions about our work and find a pattern to all our tastings. Every year there’s a zone that stands out, a wine that seems to us to embody the season. Last year, it was Barolo, which again in 2016 repeats the fine performances of our 2015 edition, not only with extraordinary bottles from 2010 that are releasing now, but also with excellent ones from 2011. These are the denominations that have garnered the most laurels, but they are also terroirs that have known how to increase their hectares and bottle numbers over the years, creating extraordinary international success as well. The credit goes to their producers who, suitcases and bottles in hand, had the perseverance to travel around the world, introducing their great products. Their efforts paid off and have been – and still are – a marvellous model for Italy’s entire wine sector. The list of great Italian terroirs could go on for another 20 pages, from Valpolicella to Etna, from Valle d’Aosta to Salento. What’s happening is a stylistic maturation.

his is the year of Brunello di Montalcino, just twelve months after an explosion of awards for Barolo (which, in any case, with 35 awardwinning wines, is still our guide’s most prestigious denomination), and further confirmation of the 2010 vintage year as one of the greats. We gave awards to 18 Brunello labels this year, double the number that won prizes for the 2009 vintage. These are wines that faithfully express the many facets of a broad and diversified territory, from the subtle, elegant Brunello of the northern zone to the enthralling, warm Brunello of the zone facing the sea. The year showed that in Tuscany, sangiovese has returned to center stage, not only in classic terroirs like this one and in Chianti Classico (with 19 winners), an area that never abandoned the variety, but also in other zones, whether official denominations or not.

The years of passion for ‘international’ grapes are over, and everyone – and certainly not just for today – is reflecting on the thousand shades of red of this exceptional territory-revealer.

28

OCTOBER 2015

WWW.FERRARITRENTO.IT

THE ITALIAN ART OF LIVING

Venezia, Piazza San Marco ore 4:54

VINI D'ITALIA 2016

ly has been consistently going down. We believe that these artisans are as important as the big companies that produce on a scale that allows them to work in a more efficient manner and present themselves in an organized fashion on world markets. The little growers are doing incredible work. They are real artisans.

Like peasants, they live on their land, properties that often they have brought to life after years of neglect.

These winegrowers live in symbiosis with their fields and their vines; they are the true guardians of their territory, of the beauty of the nation’s landscapes, of everything that is good and true in our country. They take care of the Common Home, as Pope Francis called it in his recent encyclical Laudato sì. With a toast to them and to all the excellent grapegrowers of our beautiful Italy, we serenely begin our thirtieth year. We want to tell you about this wonderful world – that few people can say they know as well as we do – with all the enthusiasm of youth but with more mature understanding. And we will continue to do so for many years. To your health!

Experiments with indigenous varieties are ongoing; technical frontiers of enology are being explored so that vines and terroir can tell their stories with more and more clarity.

This year we gave Tre Bicchieri awards to over 400 wines, 421 to be exact. It may seem a lot, but we want to remind you that a team of 60 experts travelled all over Italy for 6 months, tasting something like 45,000 wines. Every year we repeat this process enthusiastically, even passionately.

If we examine 2016 attentively, little by little, a thousand fascinating details emerge. One is the size of wineries. About 100 of the award-winning labels were produced by wineries that have 10 or fewer hectares of vineyard. That means we are giving oxygen and renown to the entire wine sector, not neglecting any quality winegrowers, not even the very smallest. These are people who, without the visibility given by an internationally distributed publication, would not be able to survive in a competitive world market. Over the last years, the value of wine global30

OCTOBER 2015

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421 Tre Bicchieri

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“Wine, especially in Italy, is the poetry of the earth.” Mario Soldati VALLE D'AOSTA Valle d'Aosta Chambave Moscato Passito Prieuré ’13 | La Crotta di Vegneron 7XMV[ WV ÆWZIT NZIOZIVKM[ V]IVKM[ WN \PaUM IVL ÅVITTa LZQML NZ]Q\ 7V \PM XITI\M KWVKMV\ZI\QWV WN NZ]Q\ [_MM\VM[[ J]\ IJW^M ITT NZM[PVM[[ IVL MTMOIVKM Valle d'Aosta Chardonnay Cuvée Bois ’13 | Les Crêtes <PM VW[M []OOM[\[ IKIKQI ÆW_MZ[ \PMV UW^M[ WV \W [XQKM[ []KP I[ KQVVIUWV IVL ^IVQTTI <PM XITI\M Q[ []UX\]W][ _Q\PW]\ JMQVO NI\ [I^WZa ZQKP IVL NZM[P Valle d'Aosta Petite Arvine ’14 | Elio Ottin ) VW[M WN OZMI\ QV\MV[Q\a _PMZM MTMOIV\ NZ]Q\a IVL ÆWZIT IZWUI[ MUMZOM" [I^WZa VMZ^W][ IVL ZQKP QV \PM UW]\P Valle d'Aosta Pinot Gris ’14 | Lo Triolet =VN]ZT[ OZMI\ KPIZIK\MZ _Q\P IZWUI[ WN

XMIZ ÆW_MZ[ IVL [UWSa XMXXMZa VW\M[ WV \PM VW[M# \PM XITI\M PI[ OZMI\ [\Z]K\]ZM IVL PIZUWVa Valle d'Aosta Pinot Noir Semel Pater ’13 | Maison Anselmet 1\[ [XQKa \WVM[ JITIVKM IVL \PM KTMIV VW\M[ WN NZ]Q\ Q\ M`XZM[[M[ · _QTL [\ZI_JMZZQM[ IVL JTIKS K]ZZIV\ · _QTT KWVY]MZ aW] d'Aosta Syrah ’13 | NEW Valle Rosset Terroir

1\ PI[ \PM \aXQKIT IZWUI[ WN _PQ\M XMXXMZ \PMV KTMIZ JMZZa \WVM[ 7V \PM XITI\M Q\ Q[ PIZUWVQW][ IVL JITIVKML _Q\P M`\ZIWZLQVIZa TMVO\P WV \PM ÅVQ[P

PIEDMONT Alta Langa Brut Zero Cantina Maestra ’09 | Enrico Serafino )N\MZ VW\M[ WN KZWQ[[IV\ \WI[\ML JZMIL IVL _PQ\M ÆW_MZ[ WV \PM VW[M \PM _QVM

32 OCTOBER 2015

LMTQ^MZ[ IV M`\ZIWZLQVIZa UW]\PN]T [WTQL IVL IOQTM I\ \PM [IUM \QUM Barbaresco Albesani S. Stefano ’12 | Castello di Neive 0IZUWVQW][ JW]Y]M\ KMV\MZML WV ZI[XJMZZa IVL _QTL [\ZI_JMZZQM[ _Q\P \PM ÅZ[\ PQV\[ WN TQKWZQKM I\ \PM MLOM[ <PM XITI\M Q[ Ja \PM JWWS XW_MZN]T IVL TWVO Barbaresco Asili ’12 | Ca' del Baio -TMOIV\ LMMX IVL TIaMZML WV VW\M[ WN \IZ KTW[QVO WV VW\M[ WN \WJIKKW IVL M]KITaX\][ Barbaresco Asili ’12 | Bruno Giacosa )XXMITQVO XZWÅTM WN \WJIKKW [_MM\ [XQKM[ IVL ZML JMZZQM[ [ML]K\Q^M QV Q\[ MTMOIV\ IVL OZIKMN]T XZWOZM[[QWV _Q\P I KZM[KMVLW WN QV\MV[Q\a WV \PM ÅVQ[P Boito Ris. ’10 | Rizzi NEW Barbaresco 2]VQXMZ \WJIKKW TQKWZQKM IZWUI\QK

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33 OCTOBER 2015

Barolo Giachini ’11 | Giovanni Corino )TUW[\ \WW UWLMZV \PQ[ [M^MZM *IZWTW /QIKPQVQ ¼ Q[ IV QV\MV[MTa XTMI[]ZIJTM _QVM Barolo Gramolere ’11 | F.lli Alessandria 1V\MV[M IVL U]T\Q NIKM\ML _Q\P PQV\[ WN TQKWZQKM IVL _PQ\M \Z]NÆM \PM _QVM ]VTMI[PM[ Q\[ KTMIV ZQXM NZ]Q\ WV \PM XITI\M XMZNMK\Ta [][\IQVML Ja I UIRM[\QK \IVVQK [\Z]K\]ZM LMV[M IVL I\ \PM [IUM \QUM LMTQKI\M Barolo Liste ’10 | Giacomo Borgogno & Figli +WUXTM` VW[M TIaMZML _Q\P XMXXMZ IVL KQ\Z][ [MV[I\QWV[ J]\ TQVMIZ QV Q\[ XZWÅTM WV \PM XITI\M ››

VINI D'ITALIA 2016 Barolo Marenca â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Luigi Pira 5IZMVKI PI[ LMX\P IVL MVMZOM\QK NWZKM# [TQOP\ MLOa WV \PM KTW[M J]\ I KTMIZ N]\]ZM Barolo Monfortino Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;08 | Giacomo Conterno 7VKM IOIQV I\ \PM \WX _Q\P IV QUXMKKIJTM ^MZ[QWV M`XZM[[Q^M VW[M IVL ZM[WT]\QWV WN Q\[ \IVVQK \M`\]ZM 1\ Q[ I \Z]M IZKPM\aXM QV Q\[ KI\MOWZa Barolo Monprivato â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio 5WVXZQ^I\W Q[ IT_Ia[ I [\IZ IVL \PM ^MZ[QWV Q[ MV\PZITTQVO QV Q\[ \QOP\Ta SVQ\ \ZIV[XIZMVKa LMV[M _Q\P R]QKM IVL Ă&#x2020;I^WZ Barolo Ornato â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Pio Cesare *IZWTW 7ZVI\W Q[ I\ \PM [IUM \QUM XW_MZN]T IVL MTMOIV\ TILMV _Q\P [MV[I\QWV[ WN NZ]Q\ Barolo Parafada â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Massolino 8IZINILI [\IVL[ W]\ IUWVO *IZWTW TIJMT[ NWZ Q\[ ZQOWZW][ IVL _MTT UIVIOML N]TTVM[[ Barolo Prapò â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Ettore Germano 8ZIX Q[ U]T\Q LQUMV[QWVIT IVL ^QZQTM NZWU [\IZ\ \W Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Barolo Rapet â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Ca' Rome' ?PI\ _M Ă&#x2026;VL WV \PM VW[M IVL XITI\M \WLIa Q[ [W ZQKP IVL _MTT XZWXWZ\QWVML \PI\ Q\ XZWUQ[M[ QUXZW^MUMV\ NWZ UIVa aMIZ[ Barolo Ravera â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Elvio Cogno 4QKWZQKM ^QWTM\[ IVL PQV\[ WN UQV\ WV \PM []XMZJ *IZWTW :I^MZI Âź 1\ _QV[ W]Z UI`QU]U ZI\QVO IVL I_IZL IVL Q[ [M\ \W JM \PM KIX\IQV WN \PM JI\\ITQWV Barolo Resa 56 â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Brandini ?Q\P Q\[ LMTQKI\M VW\M[ WN ^QWTM\[ M]KITaX\][ IVL ZML JMZZQM[ \PM ^QV\IOM _ITS[ I_Ia _Q\P W]Z \WX I_IZL \PIVS[ \W Q\[ JITIVKM IVL QUXMKKIJTM []J[\IVKM Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Renato Corino =V][]IT W^MZITT Ă&#x2026;VM[[M _Q\P MVLTM[[ OTW_QVO VW\M[ WN NZM[PVM[[ IVL IJ[WT]\MTa XZIQ[M_WZ\Pa ^Q\ITQ\a QV [XQ\M WN I PW\ PIZ^M[\QVO [MI[WV Barolo Rocche di Castiglione â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Vietti <PM VW[M Q[ LMMX IVL KWUXTM` _W^MV _Q\P VW\M[ WN 8MZ]^QIV JIZS \IZ ^QWTM\[ IVL PQV\[ WN JIT[IU ITT [][\IQVML Ja _MTT ZM[WT^ML \IVVQK \M`\]ZM

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34 OCTOBER 2015

_M Ă&#x2026;VL IOIQV WV I ZQKP XW_MZN]T XITI\M >MZa TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Pitasso â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Claudio Mariotto 8Q\I[[W Q[ I \Z]Ta QKWVQK <QUWZI[[W UWZM KWUXTM` IVL MTMOIV\ \PIV UW[\ Dogliani Sup. San Bernardo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Anna Maria Abbona +WUXTM` VW[M WN [XQKM[ IVL LIZS JMZZa NZ]Q\ XW_MZN]T J]\ MI[a \W LZQVS ITT JI[ML WV X]TXa NZ]Q\ [ML]K\Q^MTa LMV[M IVL ^Q\IT Dolcetto di Ovada Sup. Du Riva â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Tacchino ,]ZQVO \I[\QVO \PM WTNIK\WZa XPI[M [PW_[ NZ]Q\ M^WT^QVO WV VW\M[ WN KWKWI XW_LMZ IVL TQKWZQKM IV\QKQXI\QVO I XITI\M ZQKP QV NZ]Q\ _Q\P I ^MZa TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Gattinara Osso S. Grato â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Antoniolo <PIVS[ \W Q\[ M`XZM[[Q^M LM\IQT[ 7[[W ;IV /ZI\W Âź I\\IQV[ W]Z PQOPM[\ ZI\QVO" ZWW\[ \WJIKKW QWLQVM IZWUI[ <PM XITI\M Q[ I NM[\Q^IT WN ZML JMZZQM[ [M\ QV I UIRM[\QK NZIUM Gavi del Comune di Gavi Minaia â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Nicola Bergaglio .QVM IVL KWUXTM` _Q\P IZWUI[ WN _PQ\M Ă&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ IVL Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ WV UQVMZIT VW\M[ /WWL [\Z]K\]ZM WV \PM XITI\M 7XMV[ XZWOZM[[Q^MTa IVL KTW[M[ XMZ[Q[\MV\ IVL NZM[P Gavi Minaia â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Franco M. Martinetti <PM UW]\P Ă&#x2026;TTQVO /I^Q 5QVIQI Âź Q[ ITZMILa ^MZa XTMI[]ZIJTM LM[MZ^QVO Q\[ <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL NWZ Q\[ KWUXTM`Q\a IVL ZQKPVM[[ .ZM[P IVL UQVMZIT VW\M[ _QTT JMKWUM M^MV JM\\MZ W^MZ \PM VM`\ LMKILM[ I[ \PM PQ[\WZa WN \PQ[ TIJMT PI[ IUXTa LMUWV[\ZI\ML dei Mazzoni â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | NEW Ghemme Tiziano Mazzoni

+WUXTM` IVL QV\MV[M _MTT IZ\QK]TI\ML IZWUI[ WN MIZ\P ZWW\[ IVL JMZZQM[ ) _WZ\Pa XITI\M _Q\P I ^MT^M\a \M`\]ZM _PQKP MVKWUXI[[M[ I Ă&#x2026;VM IZZIa WN \IVVQV[ KZMI\QVO I [\QU]TI\QVO aM\ JITIVKML _PWTM Ghemme V. Pellizzane â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Torraccia del Piantavigna ?MTT UIVIOML M^WT]\QWV WN LZQML Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ Z][\ IVL [ITQVM [MV[I\QWV[ \PI\ [MMU \W ZMVW]VKM NZ]Q\ M^MV WV \PM XITI\M 6M^MZ\PMTM[[ Q\ Q[ ^QJZIV\ \PIVS[ \W I VW\M_WZ\Pa [I^WZa IVL \IVVQK XZM[MVKM I][\MZM J]\ VW\ IOOZM[[Q^M Langhe Larigi â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Elio Altare ) <ZM *QKKPQMZQ _QVM \PI\ UIVIOM[ \W LQ[\ZIK\ NZWU Q\[ W_V XW_MZ _Q\P I LMTQ^MZa WN

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The most expensive Tre Bicchieri?

You’ll need 535 euros to take home, from an Italian wine shop, Barolo V. Rionda Ester Canale Rosso 2011 Roero Mombeltramo Ris. ’11 | Malvirà :ML JMZZQM[ IVL TQOP\ VW\M[ WN 8MZ]^QIV JIZS IVL ZP]JIZJ WV \PM VW[M <PM XITI\M Q[ ZQKP QV NZ]Q\ · R]QKa KWUXTM` NZM[P · IVL PI[ OWWL TMVO\P Roero Mompissano Ris. ’12 | Cascina Ca' Rossa .TWZIT IZWUI[ _Q\P VW\M[ WN JMZZQM[ +WUXTM` [I^WZa TWVO XITI\M _Q\P N]TTa XZM[MV\ J]\ ÅVM \IVVQV[ Roero Printi Ris. ’11 | Monchiero Carbone <PM ^MZ[QWV Q[ ZQKP QV NZ]Q\ N]TT \IVVQK J]\ JITIVKML _Q\P I [I^WZa I[[MZ\Q^M ÅVQ[P Roero Sudisfà Ris. ’12 | Negro Angelo e Figli ,M[MZ^M[ Q\[ <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL NWZ Q\[

Sterpi ’13 | Vigneti Massa +WUXTM` VW[M _Q\P \WVM[ WN _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ ITUWVL[ IVL ^MOM\IT VW\M[ \PI\ M^WT^M QV\W UQVMZIT IVL XM\ZWT [MV[I\QWV[ QV I XW_MZN]T ITKWPWT TILMV XITI\M

LIGURIA Colli di Luni Vermentino Et. Nera ’14 | Cantine Lunae Bosoni <PM JZQTTQIV\ QV\MV[M OZMMVQ[P KWTWZ Q[ QV\ZQO]QVO <PM VW[M WNNMZ[ TQOP\ [MV[I\QWV[ WN JI[QT QV\MV[M VW\M[ WN ZW[MPQX[ 1V \PM UW]\P QUXWZ\IV\ [\Z]K\]ZM XZWTWVOML QV\MV[Q\a IVL [WN\ IN\MZ\I[\M IZM ITT XTMI[QVO di Luni Vermentino NEW Colli Il Chioso ’14 | Conte Picedi Benettini

) JZQTTQIV\ TQ^MTa KWTWZ PMZITL[ \PM _WVLMZN]T PIZUWVa JM\_MMV \PM KTI[[QK VW\M[ WN 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ]VLMZJZ][P IVL QV\MV[M NZ]Q\ 1V \PM UW]\P Q\ ZMIKPM[ I XMIS _Q\P I KWUXTM` VWJTM JWLa XTMI[IV\ NZM[PVM[[ IVL I TWVO ZMTI`ML ÅVQ[P Colli di Luni Vermentino Il Maggiore ’14 | Ottaviano Lambruschi *ZQTTQIV\ QV\MV[M 1V \PM UW]\P VW\M[ WN UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ IVL NZM[P NZ]Q\ QV I ^MZa KWUXTM` IVL NZM[P JWLa 8MZ[Q[\MVKM IVL PIZUWVQW][ IN\MZ\I[\M KWUXTM\M \PM M`KQ\QVO M`XMZQMVKM Dolceacqua Sup. Vign. Posaù ’13 | Maccario Dringenberg )V QV^Q\QVO Z]Ja KWTWZ \PM _QVM M`XTWLM[ QV \PM UW]\P _Q\P XTMI[IV\ QV\MV[Q\a LMTQKI\M PIZUWVa IVL ]VMY]ITML KPIZIK\MZ 1\ WNNMZ[ \PM NZM[PVM[[ WN I _MTT IZ\QK]TI\ML JWLa _Q\P QUXWZ\IV\ \IVVQV[ IVL XW_MZN]T MVMZOa Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Albium ’13 | Poggio dei Gorleri *ZQTTQIV\ [\ZI_ aMTTW_ KWTWZ XTMI[IV\Ta aW]VO 1V\MV[M IZWUI[ WN NZM[P PMZJ[ IVL _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ 1UXWZ\IV\ QUXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P IVL XTMI[IV\ IKQLQ\a WV I ^MT^M\a JWLa \PI\ _QVL[ Q\[ _Ia \W I TWVO ÅVQ[P Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato U Baccan ’13 | Bruna 5IZSML VW\M[ WN UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ M]KITaX\][ IVL QWLQVM 8MZ[Q[\MV\ XTMI[IV\ IVL OZIKMN]T QV \PM UW]\P _Q\P IV QV\MV[M IN\MZ\I[\M IVL VWJTM MTMOIVKM

35 OCTOBER 2015

LOMBARDY Brut 'More ’11 | Castello di Cigognola <PQ[ TIJMT _QV[ W]Z <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL NWZ \PM [MKWVL KWV[MK]\Q^M aMIZ \PIVS[ \W Q\[ ÆWZIT IVL KQ\Z][a JW]Y]M\ _WVLMZN]T [I^WZa KZMIUQVM[[ QV \PM UW]\P ÅVM JMIL IVL I[[MZ\Q^M JIKSJWVM Farfalla | Ballabio NEW Brut +ZMIUQVM[[ MVMZOa IVL ZQKPVM[[

\PIVS[ \W I TWVO [\Ia WV Q\[ TMM[ \PI\ PI[ VW\ UQVQUITTa _MISMVML Q\[ JIKSJWVM# I KTI[[ IK\ ÅVQ[P KWUXTM\M[ \PM XQK\]ZM WN IJ[WT]\M M`KMTTMVKM Brut Nature | Monsupello .]TT ZQKP NZM[P IVL ^MZ\QKIT \PIVS[ \W IV M`MUXTIZa IKQLQK ^MQV NZIOZIV\ _Q\P JMZZQM[ I[ WVTa I XQVW\ VMZW KIV JM JM[\W_QVO I ÅVQ[P WN M`\ZMUM KTMIVTQVM[[ Franciacorta Brut Cru Perdu ’04 | Castello Bonomi .ZM[P IVL ^Q\IT _Q\P PMIT\Pa [\QTT _PWTM NZ]Q\ IVL I [ML]K\Q^M UQVMZIT ^MQV \PI\ [][\IQV[ Q\ QV I TWVO IVL [I\Q[NaQVO ÅVQ[P Franciacorta Brut Extreme Palazzo Lana Ris. ’07 | Guido Berlucchi & C. 1\ M`XZM[[M[ I VMZ^W][ IOQTM IVL NZM[P KPIZIK\MZ MVTQ^MVML Ja MTMOIV\ [PILQVO[ WN ZML NZ]Q\ IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL Ja I KTMIV [I^WZa ÆI^WZ \PI\ KPIZIK\MZQbM[ Q\[ TWVO ÅVQ[P Franciacorta Brut Naturae ’11 | Barone Pizzini 1\ WXMV[ MTMOIV\Ta IVL KWUXZM[[ML WV \PM VW[M _Q\P IZWUI[ WN _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL LMTQKI\M V]IVKM[ WN IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ <PM XITI\M Q[ [I\Q[NaQVO IVL X]TXa [][\IQVML Ja I TQ^MTa IKQLQK ^MQV IVL Ja UQVMZITQ\a \PI\ IKKWUXIVQM[ Q\ \PZW]OP I TWVO ÅVQ[P Franciacorta Dosage Zéro Noir Vintage Collection Ris. ’06 | Ca' del Bosco 7^MZ MQOP\ aMIZ[ WN IOQVO WV Q\[ TMM[ OQ^M \PQ[ *TIVK LM 6WQZ[ M`\ZIWZLQVIZa LMX\P IVL KWUXTM`Q\a UISQVO Q\ IV IJ[WT]\M Y]ITQ\I\Q^M JMVKPUIZS Franciacorta Dosage Zero Secolo Novo Ris. ’08 | Le Marchesine 1\ PI[ I JZQTTQIV\ OZMMVQ[P [\ZI_ aMTTW_ KWTWZ KWUXTM` IZWUI[ WN NZ]Q\ PIbMTV]\ \WI[\ IVL aMI[\ J]\ Q\ Q[ WV \PM XITI\M \PI\ Q\ [PW_[ Q\[ OMVMZW][ [\Z]K\]ZM KWUXTM`Q\a JITIVKM IVL M`\ZIWZLQVIZa M`XZM[[Q^M NZM[PVM[[

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VINI D'ITALIA 2016 Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;08 | Lo Sparviere 7V \PM VW[M Q\ Q[ KWUXTM` [WUM\QUM[ I][\MZM _Q\P UQVMZIT VW\M[ IVL [UWSQVM[[ \PI\ LW VW\ KW^MZ ]X ^Q\IT PMIT\Pa NZ]Q\ 7V \PM XITI\M Q\ Q[ [\Z]K\]ZML \I]\ [I^WZa IVL OMVMZW][ KTW[QVO TWVO IVL [I\Q[NaQVOTa WV VW\M[ WN NZ]Q\ IVL KQ\Z][ bM[\ Franciacorta Extra Brut â&#x20AC;&#x2122;09 | Ferghettina -TMOIV\ IVL ZQKP WV \PM VW[M _Q\P Q\[ XITM\\M WN _PQ\M Ă&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ PQV\[ WN M`W\QK NZ]Q\ \PI\ [PILM QV\W IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ 7V \PM XITI\M QV\MV[M LMV[M I[[MZ\Q^M MTMOIV\ IVL UMUWZIJTa XTMI[IV\ \W LZQVS /ZMI\ Ă&#x2026;VQ[P WV KQ\Z][ bM[\

103 months on its lees: Sparkling Wine of the Year: Franciacorta Dosage Zero Noir 2006 Caâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; del Bosco Q\a KWUXTM`Q\a \aXQKITTa XQVW\ VMZW ZML JMZZa NZ]Q\ IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ Ă&#x2026;VM JMIL IVL I Ă&#x2026;VQ[P QV KZM[KMVLW

;\QTT LM[MZ^M[ I <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL NWZ Q\[ N]TT NZ]Q\QVM[[ IVL [XTMVLQLTa JITIVKML IKQLQ\a Trento Brut Altemasi Graal Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;08 | Cavit 6W\M[ WN WZIVOM JTW[[WU[ M^MV QN \PM _QVM Q[ JWZV QV \PM UW]V\IQV[ :Pa\PUQK QV \PM UW]\P TWVO NI[KQVI\QVO Ă&#x2020;I^WZ WTNIK\WZa JITIVKM Trento Brut Domini Nero â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Abate Nero <I]\ ^Q^QL Ă&#x2020;WZIT QUXIK\ Q\ PI[ XQVW\ VMZW \WVM[ OZMI\ XMZ[Q[\MVKM IVL Q[ LMKQLMLTa KIX\Q^I\QVO Brut Dosaggio Zero NEW Trento Opera Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;08 |

Franciacorta Extra Brut Vittorio Moretti Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;08 | Bellavista 6W\M[ WN RI[UQVM WV \PM VW[M [ML]K\Q^M IVL KZMIUa MNNMZ^M[KMVKM _PWTM IVL PMIT\Pa NZ]Q\ ^QJZIV\ JIKSJWVM IVL XMZ[Q[\MV\ IZWUI[

Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Nino Negri )V MTMOIV\ IVL KTI[[QKITTa UWLMZV _QVM _Q\P IZWUI[ \PI\ ZIVOM NZWU ZQXM NZ]Q\ \W [XQKM[ NZWU XT]U[ \W KWKWI XW_LMZ ITWVO _Q\P TQOP\ VW\M[ WN \WJIKKW <PM XITI\M Q[ ZQKP XZWXMZTa X]TXa _Q\P I LMV[M \IVVQK \M`\]ZM IVL I ^MZa TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

Opera Vitivinicola in Valdicembra ,W[IOOQW BMZW _QV[ Q\[ <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL Ja LMUWV[\ZI\QVO VW\IJTM Y]ITQ\a I Ă&#x2026;VM IZWUI\QK JIKSJWVM KZa[\ITTQVM [\Z]K\]ZM IKQLQK ^Q\ITQ\a" I VM_KWUMZ IUWVO \PM TMILMZ[ QV <ZMV\W

Franciacorta Nature | Enrico Gatti .QVM JMIL IVL KZMIUa UW][[M 7XMV[ WV \PM VW[M WV \WVM[ WN _PQ\M XMIKP IVL PI_\PWZV \PMV [PILQVO QV\W KQ\Z][a V]IVKM[ 7V \PM XITI\M Q\ Q[ [WTQL ^MZ\QKIT I\ UWUMV\[ I][\MZM J]\ \PMV Q\ WXMV[ W]\ NZ]Q\a IVL NZM[P

Valtellina Sfursat Fruttaio Ca' Rizzieri â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Aldo Rainoldi -`KMTTMV\ IZWUI[ WN NZ]Q\ KWKWI XW_LMZ IT_Ia[ _MTT JITIVKML _Q\P VW\M[ WN UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ IVL I Ă&#x2026;VIT NZM[PVM[[ <PM XITI\M Q[ [WN\ IVL aM\ \I]\ _Q\P I ^MZa Ă&#x2026;VM \IVVQK _MI^M IVL I NIQZTa TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

Lugana Molin â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | CĂ Maiol 5MUWZIJTM NWZ \PM NZIOZIVKM WN Q\[ IZWUI[ IVL I UW]\PNMMT \PI\ Q[ QUUMLQI\M KZQ[X IVL ^MZa TWVO

Valtellina Sup. Dirupi Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Dirupi ;\ZQSQVO ^MZa MTMOIV\ NZIOZIVKM[ WN ZI[XJMZZa IVL _QTL [\ZI_JMZZQM[ [PILQVO[ WN \WJIKKW IVL TQKWZQKM <PM XITI\M Q[ M`\ZMUMTa Ă&#x2026;VM R]QKa KZQ[X IVL ^MZa TWVO WV \PM Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

Trento Brut Methius Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;09 | F.lli Dorigati <ISQVO IL^IV\IOM WN I XW[Q\Q^M ^QV\IOM aMIZ Q\ _QV[ W]Z <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL \PIVS[ \W KZMIUQVM[[ WV \PM VW[M ]VLMZ[KWZML Ja NZIOZIVKM[ WN _QTL IXXTM[ IVL I VW\M WN ^IVQTTI UQ`ML _Q\P XQVM ZM[QV \WVM[ \PI\ MUMZOM WV \PM XITI\M I[ _MTT _PMZM \PM UW]\PNMMT Q[ KIZM[[QVO [][\IQVML Ja TQ^MTa IKQLQ\a

OP Pinot Nero Brut 1870 â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | F.lli Giorgi <PM \Z]M XMIS _QVM WN \PQ[ PW][M Q[ [\QTT \PM IVL IOIQV _Q\P \PM ^QV\IOM Q\ _QV[ Q\[ <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL \PIVS[ \W Q\[ M^MZ XZM[MV\ KPIZIK\MZ" [I^WZ UQVMZITQ\a \I]\VM[[ JIKSJWVM PIZUWVa MTMOIVKM OP Pinot Nero Giorgio Odero â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Frecciarossa )[ MTMOIV\ I[ M^MZ PIZUWVQW][ LMMX I XZIQ[M_WZ\Pa JITIVKM JM\_MMV JMZZQM[ IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ VW\M[ WN KWNNMM IVL \MZ\QIZa V]IVKM[ 1\ PI[ I\\IQVML Q\[ \Z]M LQUMV[QWV[ IVL Q\[ ]VUQ[\ISIJTM [\aTM OP Pinot Nero Noir â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Tenuta Mazzolino 0WVM[\ \aXQKIT KWUXTM` VW[M XTIaML W]\ WV \WVM[ WN _QTL JMZZQM[ IVL [XQKM[ <PM XITI\M Q[ OMVMZW][ IVL PIZUWVQW][ _Q\P VWJTM \IVVQV[ IVL I OZMI\ Ă&#x2026;VIT \PZ][\ Nero Brut 64 â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Calatroni NEW Pinot <PM M`KMTTMV\ *Z]\ _QV[ Q\[

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Valtellina Sup. Sassella Rocce Rosse Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;05 | Ar.Pe.Pe. ) LMMX IT\PW]OP aW]\PN]T _QVM _Q\P VW\M[ WN TMI\PMZ IVL \WJIKKW PQV\[ WN OMV\QIV V]IVKM[ WN QWLQVM IVL Z][\ <PM XITI\M Q[ ZQKP IVL I][\MZM _PQTM \IVVQV[ IZM _MTT []XXWZ\ML Ja LMV[M M`\ZIK\Q^M X]TX Valtellina Sup. Sassella Sommarovina â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Mamete Prevostini 1V\MV[M _Q\P WXMVQVO IZWUI[ WN \WJIKKW RIU ZWI[\ML KWNNMM IVL [XQKM[ <PM XITI\M Q[ M`\ZIWZLQVIZa QV^QOWZI\ML Ja I NZM[P TWVO IKQLQK \IVVQK Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

TRENTINO San Leonardo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Tenuta San Leonardo <PM _QVM MV\MZ[ \PM UW]\P [WN\Ta \PMV OZW_[ XZWOZM[[Q^MTa KTW[QVO ^MZa TMVO\PQTa WV [XQKa IVL NZ]Q\a VW\M[ Trentino MĂźller Thurgau V. delle Forche â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | La Vis/Valle di Cembra

36 OCTOBER 2015

Trento Brut Riserva del Fondatore 976 â&#x20AC;&#x2122;05 | Letrari ) _QVM WN ZIZM QV\MV[M JZQTTQIVKM .QVM \M`\]ZM IVL LMV[Q\a QV \PM UW]\P +WUXTM`Q\a ZIVOM[ NZWU \WVM[ WN KIVLQML KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ \W I \W]KP WN KWNNMM IVL \WI[\ >MZa MVRWaIJTM Trento Dosaggio Zero Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Nicola Balter )V M`\ZIWZLQVIZa <ZMV\W WN KPIZIK\MZ -`KMTTMV\ JITIVKM [I^WZa MTMOIV\ M`Y]Q[Q\M Ă&#x2026;VM[[M Trento Extra Brut Lunelli Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;07 | Ferrari <PM MV\PZITTQVO :Q[MZ^I LQ .IUQOTQI _WV W]Z <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL NWZ I [QTSa QV^QOWZI\QVO IZWUI\QK KPIZIK\MZ XTIaML W]\ JM\_MMV KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ \WVITQ\QM[ IVL \PM NZIOZIVKM WN NZM[PTa JISML JZMIL Vino Santo Arèle â&#x20AC;&#x2122;06 | Pravis ) M`\ZMUMTa MTMOIV\ UMLQ\I\QWV _QVM IJTM \W N]Z\PMZ KPITTMVOM \PM XI[[IOM WN \QUM

ALTO ADIGE A. A. Cabernet Sauvignon Cor RĂśmigberg â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Alois Tenutae Lageder 7V \PM VW[M \PM NZ]Q\ [\Ia[ PQLLMV JMPQVL VW\M[ WN UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ IVL [XQKM[ â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş

VINI D'ITALIA 2016 \PMV MUMZOM[ NZMMTa WV I ZQKP PIZUWVQW][ XITI\M _Q\P I _WVLMZN]T \IVVQK _MI^M A. A. Cabernet Sauvignon Lafòa ’12 | Cantina Produttori Colterenzio ,Q[XTIa[ IZWUI[ \PI\ ZIVOM NZWU ZQXM XT]U \W UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ \PMV WXMV[ NZMMTa WV\W I ZQKP XITI\M [][\IQVML Ja [_MM\ \IVVQV[ IVL IV M`\ZIWZLQVIZa [I^WZa [MV[I\QWV \PI\ TMVO\PMV[ IVL [\ZM\KPM[ W]\ \PM ÅVQ[P A. A. Gewürztraminer Auratus Crescendo ’14 | Tenuta Ritterhof 7V \PM VW[M QV\MV[M VW\M[ WN KIVLQML KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ ZW[M[ IVL [XQKM[ \PI\ _M ÅVL IUXTQÅML WV I ZQKP UW]\P ÅTTQVO XITI\M \PI\ UIVIOM[ \W JM JW\P R]QKa IVL MTMOIV\ A. A. Gewürztraminer Brenntal Ris. ’12 | Cantina Produttori Cortaccia <PM TWVO [\Ia QV \PM KMTTIZ OQ^M[ ][ I _QVM \PI\ ZM^MIT[ KWUXTM`Q\a IVL LMX\P WN IZWUI[ JM[\W_QVO WV \PM XITI\M N]TTVM[[ _MTT UIVIOML Ja UIZSML [I^WZa [MV[I\QWV[ IVL \PMV I TWVO NI[KQVI\QVO ÅVQ[P A. A. Lago di Caldaro Cl. Sup. Leuchtenburg ’14 | Erste+Neue ) 4IOW LQ +ITLIZW TIJMT \PI\ M`XTWQ\[ \PM KWWT \MUXMZI\]ZM[ WN \PM ^QV\IOM aMIZ \W OQ^M ][ ZMÅVML IZWUI[ WN _QTL JMZZQM[ IVL [XQKM[ MVPIVKML QV I XITI\M \PI\ UIVIOM[ \W RWQV TQOP\VM[[ [I^WZa [MV[I\QWV[ IVL KPIZIK\MZ A. A. Lagrein Abtei Muri Ris. ’12 | Cantina Convento Muri-Gries <PM []VVa ^QV\IOM aMIZ WN OQ^M[ ][ I ZML _Q\P I KWUXIK\ IXXMIZIVKM QV\MV[M IZWUI[ LWUQVI\ML Ja UMI\a [_MM\ JTIKS NZ]Q\ ^MQVML _Q\P [UWSa VW\M[ [XQKM[ IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ 1V \PM UW]\P I\ ÅZ[\ \PM WIS Q[ VW\QKMIJTM J]\ \PMV NZ]Q\ \ISM[ W^MZ A. A. Lagrein Castel Ringberg Ris. ’11 | Elena Walch ) JT]MJTWWL ZML \PI\ Q[V¼\ KWV\MV\ _Q\P JM\\QVO WV \PM \aXQKIT M`]JMZIVKM WN \PM ^IZQM\a J]\ ZI\PMZ M`XTWZM[ Q\[ KZQ[XMZ KPIZIK\MZ UIVIOQVO \W JZQVO \WOM\PMZ XW_MZ IOQTQ\a IVL TMVO\P A. Lagrein Staves Ris. ’12 | NEW A. Tenuta Kornell

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A. A. Lagrein Taber Ris. ’13 | Cantina Bolzano 1V\MV[M JW]Y]M\ WN JTIKS NZ]Q\ KWKWI XW_LMZ IVL [XQKM[ _Q\P I[[MZ\Q^M UQVMZITQ\a QV \PM JIKSOZW]VL \PI\ X][PM[ IPMIL \W \ISM \PM [\IZZQVO ZWTM 1V \PM UW]\P \PM [WTQL [\Z]K\]ZM Q[ _MTT UIVIOML Ja IKQLQ\a IVL Ja I LMV[M J]\ [_MM\ \IVVQK _MI^M

IVL UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ )V MVMZOM\QK PIZUWVQW][ XITI\M WN OZMI\ TMVO\P

A. A. Moscato Giallo Passito Serenade ’12 | Cantina di Caldaro 8TIa[ \PM KIZL[ WN PIZUWVa IVL MTMOIVKM WV \PM XITI\M

A. A. Terlano Nova Domus Ris. ’12 | Cantina Terlano >MZa IJ]VLIV\ QV \PQ[ ^QV\IOM aMIZ \PM MTMOIVKM WN <MZTIVW 6W^I ,WU][ PI[ MUMZOML IOIQV 3MTTMZUMQ[\MZ :]LQ 3WÆMZ PI[ [K]TX\ML IZW]VL I ZQXM KZQ[X _PQ\M NZ]Q\ [MV[I\QWV OQ^QVO Q\ I [WTQL MTMOIV\ IVL QV\MZUQVIJTa TWVO UW]\PNMMT

A. A. Müller Thurgau Feldmarschall von Fenner zu Fennberg ’13 | Tiefenbrunner 1V\MV[M IZWUI[ WN _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ [XQKM[ IVL ÆW_MZ[ _Q\P TI\MV\ UQVMZITQ\a \PI\ X][PM[ ]X NZWU JMTW_ 1V \PM UW]\P \PM _QVM Q[ MVMZOM\QK \I]\ IVL QV\MZUQVIJTa TWVO A. A. Pinot Bianco Praesulis ’14 | Gumphof - Markus Prackwieser 8ZIM[]TQ[ IXXMIZ[ M[[MV\QIT IVL I[[MZ\Q^M XZWUQ[QVO M`KMTTMV\ M^WT]\QWV A. A. Pinot Bianco Sirmian ’14 | Cantina Nals Margreid .ZM[P PMIT\Pa IVL XMVM\ZI\QVO IZWUI[ 1V \PM UW]\P \PM KWWT ^QV\IOM aMIZ OQ^M[ I XITI\M WN OZMI\ \MV[QWV IVL TMVO\P A. A. Pinot Bianco St. Valentin ’13 | Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano )ZWUI[ WN _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ ÆW_MZ[ IVL [XQKM[ ZM^MIT XMZNMK\ N][QWV _Q\P WIS 1V \PM UW]\P Q\ Q[ ZQKP IVL NZM[P I\ \PM [IUM \QUM _Q\P I MVMZOM\QK XITI\M WN OZMI\ ÅVM[[M \PI\ MI[QTa _QV[ W]Z <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL A. A. Pinot Bianco Tyrol ’13 | Cantina Meran Burggräfler ,Q[XTIa[ IV IZWUI\QK XZWÅTM WN OZMI\ MTMOIVKM _Q\P _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ MVTQ^MVML _Q\P ÆWZIT IVL [XQKa PQV\[ 1V \PM UW]\P JW\P TQOP\ IVL [WTQL I\ \PM [IUM \QUM _Q\P I TWVO TI[\QVO ÅVQ[P A. A. Pinot Nero Trattmann Mazon Ris. ’12 | Cantina Girlan <PM OZIXM[ KWUQVO NZWU \PM 5IbWV []JbWVM OQ^M \PM _QVM MTMOIV\ IZWUI[ QV _PQKP _QTL JMZZQM[ IZM _MTT KWV\ZI[\ML _Q\P [XQKM[ IVL _Q\P WIS \PI\ _IQ\[ \W JM N]TTa IJ[WZJML 1V \PM UW]\P [WTQL IVL TILMV _Q\P ZMÅVML \IVVQV[ A. A. Santa Maddalena Cl. ’14 | Pfannenstielhof - Johannes Pfeifer :MÅVML IZWUI[ \PI\ []OOM[\ _QTL JMZZQM[

38 OCTOBER 2015

A. A. Sauvignon ’13 | Franz Haas )ZWUI[ WN _PQ\M XMIKP IVL ÆW_MZ[ _Q\P I XITI\M QV _PQKP MTMOIVKM Q[ \PM \IZOM\ TMI^QVO \PM IZWUI\QK M`]JMZIVKM WN \PM ^IZQM\a QV I []XXWZ\QVO ZWTM

A. A. Terlano Sauvignon Tannenberg ’13 | Manincor <IVVMVJMZO Q[ I [I]^QOVWV _Q\P QV\MV[M VW\M[ WN _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ IVL ÆW_MZ[ WV \PM VW[M \PI\ IXXMIZ IOIQV QV \PM UW]\P <PM _QVM \PMV WXMV[ W]\ _Q\P [I^WZa ÆI^WZ IVL \MV[QWV PIZUWVQW][ IVL WN OZMI\ TMVO\P A. Valle Isarco Riesling ’14 | NEW A. Taschlerhof - Peter Wachtler

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Barolo, Barbaresco, Super Tuscan, Brunello di Montalcino, Amarone, Romanèe Conti, Armand Rousseau, Barolo, Barbaresco, Super Tuscan, Brunello di Montalcino, Amarone, Romanèe Conti, Armand Rousseau, Chateau Petrus, Chateau Lafite, Rothschild, Chateau Margaux, Chateau, Mouton Rothschild, Chateau Petrus, Chateau Lafite, Rothschild, Chateau Margaux, Chateau, Mouton Rothschild, Hauto Brion, Old and Current vintages, Grappa Levi, Old Whiskies, Old Cognacs, Hauto Brion, Old and Current vintages, Grappa Levi, Old Whiskies, Old Cognacs, Current and Vintage Champagnes Current and Vintage Champagnes

VINI D'ITALIA 2016 []TXP]Z IVL KZQ[X _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ IZM [\ZQSQVO Q\¼[ QV \PM UW]\P \PI\ \PM _QVM LWUQVI\M[ \PM ÅMTL \PIVS[ \W I XITI\M \PI\ PI[ M^MZa\PQVO" N]TTVM[[ \MV[QWV KPIZIK\MZ TMVO\P A. A. Valle Venosta Riesling ’14 | Tenuta Unterortl - Castel Juval )V M[[MV\QIT _QVM ZMÅVML IVL NZM[P _Q\P KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL ÆWZIT IZWUI[ Q\ OQ^M[ \PM XITI\M I ZQOQL UW]\PNMMT [I^WZa IVL _Q\P ITUW[\ K]\\QVO IKQLQ\a Trias ’14 | Ignaz Niedrist ,MTQKI\M QUXIK\ J]\ \PMV \PM _QVM ZM^MIT[ MVW]OP [I^WZ PIZUWVa IVL TMVO\P \W UISM Q\ WVM WN \PM ZMOQWV¼[ UW[\ QV\MZM[\QVO _PQ\M[

VENETO Amarone della Valpolicella ’10 | Marion <PM VW[M LQ[XTIa[ QV\MV[M VW\M[ WN W^MZZQXM NZ]Q\ \PI\ OZIL]ITTa TMI^M ZWWU NWZ ÅVM[ PMZJM[ IVL [XQKM[ <PM UW]\P WXMV[ W]\ OZIKMN]TTa IVL KWV[Q[\MV\Ta MTMOIV\Ta UIVIOQVO IV QUXW[QVO JWLa Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli ’11 | Tenuta Sant'Antonio <PM _IZU ^QV\IOM aMIZ OI^M \PM _QVM I []VVa IVL ZQXM KPIZIK\MZ _Q\P NZ]Q\ XMZNMK\Ta M`XZM[[ML QV I XQK\]ZM \PI\ QVKT]LM[ VW\M[ WN [UWSM IVL NWZM[\ ÆWWZ <PM UW]\P ZM^MIT[ \PM ][]IT LQ[XTIa WN KPIZIK\MZ WNNMZQVO VW\ WVTa N]TTVM[[ IVL ZW]VLVM[[ J]\ IT[W I UIZSML [I^WZa [MV[I\QWV

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The Veneto, with 16 labels Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. ’11 | Allegrini 7V \PM VW[M IZWUI[ IZM [\QTT ^MZa [QUXTM IVL NZM[P LWUQVI\ML Ja KZQ[X IVL R]QKa ZML NZ]Q\ 1V \PM UW]\P I KPIVOM WN XIKM I LMKQ[Q^M KWVY]M[\ LQ[XTIaQVO [UWW\P \IVVQV[ IVL M`\ZIWZLQVIZa TMVO\P Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. ’07 | Cav. G. B. Bertani ?QV[ XZIQ[M NWZ Q\[ MTMOIVKM \PM LMTQKIKa _Q\P _PQKP Q\ LQ[XTIa[ W^MZZQXM NZ]Q\ MV\_QVML _Q\P VW\M[ WN ÅVM[ PMZJM[ IVL [XQKM[ -^MV UWZM LMTQKI\M QV \PM UW]\P UIVIOQVO IV QUXZM[[Q^M JWLa _Q\P TQOP\VM[[ IVL N]TT ÆI^WZ

Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. ’06 | Giuseppe Quintarelli 7V \PM VW[M QV\MV[M [MV[I\QWV[ WN W^MZZQXM NZ]Q\ _Q\P I LMMX VW\M WN UMI\ IVL LZQML ÆW_MZ[ \PMV ÅVITTa TQJMZI\QVO \WVM[ WN UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ \PI\ ZMNZM[P IVL MVMZOQbM \PM IZWUI[ 1V \PM UW]\P VW\M_WZ\Pa XW_MZ Q[ UIVIOML _Q\P OZIKM IVL XZMKQ[QWV <PM _QVM LQ[XTIa[ [QTSa \IVVQV[ IVL IV MVMZOM\QK MTMOIV\ XITI\M

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Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Campolongo di Torbe ’09 | Masi 7V \PM VW[M QV\MV[M VW\M[ WN W^MZZQXM ZML NZ]Q\ _Q\P I LQ[KZMM\ XZM[MVKM WN WIS QV \PM JIKSOZW]VL 1V \PM UW]\P VW\M_WZ\Pa XW_MZ J]\ IKQLQ\a IVL \IVVQV[ KWVNMZ \MV[QWV IVL ZQOWZ \W \PM XITI\M

Breganze Cabernet Vign. Due Santi ’12 | Vigneto Due Santi ) JMI]\QN]T JZQTTQIV\ Z]Ja ZML KWTWZ Q[ NWTTW_ML Ja I VW[M _Q\P QV\MV[M VW\M[ WN JTIKS JMZZQM[ IVL NWZM[\ ÆWWZ [XQKM[ IVL LIUX TMI^M[ :QKP IVL R]QKa QV \PM UW]\P Q\ Q[ [][\IQVML Ja [UWW\P \IVVQV[ \PI\ TMVO\PMV \PM XITI\M

Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Casa dei Bepi ’10 | Viviani 7V \PM VW[M W^MZZQXM NZ]Q\ PI[ I KMV\ZIT XW[Q\QWV J]\ Q\ [TW_Ta UW^M[ I[QLM ITTW_QVO ÅVM[ PMZJM[ KWNNMM IVL [XQKM[ \W MUMZOM 1\ \PMV ZMIXXMIZ[ [_MM\ IVL X]TXa WV I [WTQL \I]\ ITUW[\ I][\MZM XITI\M

Cartizze Brut V. La Rivetta | Villa Sandi ) VW[M WN NZM[P ÆW_MZ[ IVL _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ \PI\ LM^MTWX[ MTMOIV\Ta QV \PM UW]\P XMZNMK\Ta [][\IQVML Ja KZMIUa J]JJTM[ \PI\ KIZM[[ \PM XITI\M LMTQKI\MTa

Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Monte Ca' Bianca ’10 | Lorenzo Begali +PIZIK\MZQbML Ja ÅVM IZWUI[ LQ[XTIaQVO NZ]Q\ QV \PM NWZMOZW]VL <PMV [TW_Ta UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ [XQKM[ IVL UIKMZI\ML ÆW_MZ[ IXXMIZ OQ^QVO LMX\P \W \PM VW[M 1V \PM UW]\P \PM ][]IT JT]MJTWWL KPIUXQWV XW_MZN]T J]\ I\ \PM [IUM \QUM \MUXMZML Ja \IVVQV IVL IKQLQ\a \PI\ TMIL QV\W I NI[KQVI\QVO ÅVQ[P Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Sergio Zenato Ris. ’09 | Zenato 1\[ NZIOZIVKM[ IZM LWUQVI\ML Ja [_MM\ IVL X]TXa ZML NZ]Q\ MV\PZITTQVO QV Q\[ QV\MV[Q\a IVL KTIZQ\a 1V \PM JIKSOZW]VL XMXXMZ IVL KPWKWTI\M PQV\ I\ I XITI\M WN OZMI\ N]TTVM[[ IVL PIZUWVa Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Vign. di Ravazzol ’11 | Ca' La Bionda <PM KWTWZ Q[ I JZQTTQIV\ Z]Ja _PQTM WV \PM VW[M _M ÅVL VW\M[ WN KPMZZQM[ \PaUM IVL XMXXMZ \PI\ ZMIXXMIZ WV I XITI\M QV _PQKP M`]JMZIVKM Q[ \MUXMZML Ja NZM[P IVL [I^WZa IKQLQ\a VQKMTa IKKWUXIVQML Ja [QTSa \IVVQV Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Vign.

Sant'Urbano ’11 | Viticoltori Speri ) _QVM \PI\ M`]T\[ QV \PM PMI\ WN \PM ^QV\IOM aMIZ _Q\P W^MZZQXM ZML NZ]Q\ QV \PM NWZMOZW]VL OZIL]ITTa TMI^QVO [XIKM NWZ VW\M[ WN JTIKS XMXXMZ IVL UIKMZI\ML

40 OCTOBER 2015

Bardolino ’14 | Le Vigne di San Pietro 7V \PM VW[M QV\MV[M VW\M[ WN _QTL JMZZQM[ \PMV [PILM[ WN XMXXMZ IVL \PaUM \PI\ _M ÅVL IOIQV XMZNMK\Ta M`XZM[[ML WV I XITI\M \PI\ UIVIOM[ \W JM ZQKP LMMX IVL I\ \PM [IUM \QUM TWVO TI[\QVO

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\PI\ UMZQ\[ W]Z <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL Valpolicella Sup. Ripasso Campo Ciotoli â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | I Campi ) :QXI[[W \PI\ LWM[VÂź\ IQU NWZ ZQKPVM[[ I[ U]KP I[ NWZ MTMOIV\ IZWUI[ IVL \MV[QWV WV \PM XITI\M 4WVO KWV[Q[\MV\ IVL NZIOZIV\

FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Braide Alte â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Livon ,MKQ[Q^M IVL NZIOZIV\ WV \PM VW[M _Q\P IZWUI[ WN \ZWXQKIT NZ]Q\ IVL JZMIL KZ][\ 7V \PM XITI\M QV\ZQO]QVO IZWUI\QK [PILQVO Collio Bianco Broy â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Eugenio Collavini +ZMIU ^IVQTTI IVL [aZ]X XZM[MZ^ML NZ]Q\ MUJZIKM \PM XITI\M TMI^QVO Q\ MV^MTWXML QV QVLMTQJTM IZWUI[ Collio Friulano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Russiz Superiore :QKP QV IZWUI[ IVL [I\Q[NaQVO WV \PM XITI\M \PM _QVM N]TTa LM[MZ^ML W]Z <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL Collio Friulano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Schiopetto :QKP KWUXTM` IVL PIZUWVQW][ JW\P WV \PM VW[M IVL \PM XITI\M \PM _QVM ZMOITM[ ][ _Q\P VW\M[ WN ZQXM NZ]Q\ TQOP\ PWVMa IVL Ă&#x2020;W_MZQVO PIa Collio Malvasia â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Doro Princic )V I_IZL _QVVMZ NWZ \PM KWUXTM`Q\a WN Q\[ WTNIK\WZa XZWĂ&#x2026;TM IVL Q\[ KWZZM[XWVLMVKM \W ^IZQM\IT \ZIQ\[

Soave Cl. Calvarino â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Leonildo Pieropan <PM _QVM LMTQ^MZ[ Q\[ IZWUI[ \W \PM VW[M OZIL]ITTa" Ă&#x2026;Z[\ _PQ\M Ă&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ \PMV NZM[P Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ IVL Ă&#x2026;VITTa I PQV\ WN UQVMZIT[ \PI\ _QTT Ă&#x2026;VL UWZM [XIKM _Q\P IOQVO 1\ WXMV[ W]\ QV \PM UW]\P _Q\P IOQTQ\a IVL KWV[Q[\MVKa ZM[]T\QVO QV I TWVO IVL NI[KQVI\QVO XITI\M

Valdobbiadene Brut V. V. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Ruggeri & C. >MKKPQM >Q\Q ÂťWTL ^QVM[Âź LM[MZ^M[ NZIUQVO ¡ LQ[XTIaQVO IZWUI[ WN Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ IVL _PQ\M NZ]Q\ QV \PM UW]\P Q\ ZM^MIT[ I[[MZ\Q^MVM[[ IVL ZIZMTa [MMV \MV[QWV

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Cl. Sup. Ripasso Jago â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | NEW Valpolicella Villa Spinosa

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41 OCTOBER 2015

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VINI D'ITALIA 2016 Collio Ribolla Gialla di Oslavia Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Primosic )ZWUI[ WN WZIVOM bM[\ JTWVL \WJIKKW Z]U IVL IXZQKW\ \IZ\ >MZa LZa _IZU IVL UW]\P Ă&#x2026;TTQVO WV \PM XITI\M Chardonnay SpĂŹule â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | NEW FCO Tenuta di Angoris ) ZQKP TQVMIZ \I[\a _QVM \PI\ KWVY]MZML W]Z XITI\M[ _Q\P \PM PIZUWVa JM\_MMV NZ]Q\a IVL ^IVQTTI VW\M[ \PI\ IXXMIZ[ _PMV \I[\QVO FCO Picolit â&#x20AC;&#x2122;08 | Adriano Gigante <PM VW[M Q[ NZIOZIV\ IVL KZQ[X _Q\P QV\ZQO]QVO _PQNN[ WN [INNZWV XWTTMV IVL UQV\ <PM XITI\M Q[ XWM\Za FCO Pinot Bianco â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Torre Rosazza <PQ[ aMIZ [I_ \PM OZMI\M[\ KWV[MV[][ KWVKMZVQVO \PQ[ 8QVW\ *QIVKW Âź _PQKP _WV Q\[ <ZM *QKKPQMZQ NWZ IV MTMOIV\ VW[M IVL [WN\VM[[ WV \PM XITI\M

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Wine shop price: 7.50 euros Pinot Bianco Myò â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Zorzettig NEW FCO <PM VW[M LQ[XTIa[ OZI\QNaQVOTa

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42 OCTOBER 2015

WN QV\MZXZM\QVO \PM ZI_ UI\MZQIT IVL \PM \IVVQV[ _PQTM ^QVQNaQVO Lambrusco di Sorbara Secco Omaggio a Gino Friedmann FB â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Cantina Sociale di Carpi e Sorbara .]TT WN MVMZOa XZMKQ[M IVL XMVM\ZI\QVO UQVMZIT IVL K]\\QVO 7V \PM VW[M Q\ QVL]TOM[ QV Ă&#x2020;WZIT VW\M[ IVL QV \WVM[ WN JW\P JMZZQM[ IVL _PQ\M Ă&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ Lambrusco di Sorbara V. del Cristo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Cavicchioli U. & Figli 7V \PM VW[M ^MZa LMTQKI\M IVL ZMĂ&#x2026;VML [ITQVM IVL IZWUI\QK _Q\P WZQOQVIT PQV\[ WN UIVLIZQV WZIVOM IVL ZW[M[ ;PIZX IVL I[[MZ\Q^M QV \PM UW]\P Reggiano Lambrusco Concerto â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Ermete Medici & Figli +ZMIUa NZ]Q\a N]TT IVL ZPa\PUQK I][\MZM _Q\P VW\M[ WN K]ZZIV\ IVL KPMZZa Ă&#x2020;I^WZN]T ]X \W Q\[ TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P ) _QVM JW\P XZMKQ[M IVL XZWNW]VL Romagna Albana Secco Neblina â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Giovanna Madonia <PM VW[M Q[ I][\MZM IVL ^MZ\QKIT ITUW[\ KWTL ;]J[\IV\QIT IVL UQVMZIT QV \PM UW]\P .QVM IKQLQK \MV[QWV [XMML[ ]X \PM XITI\M IVL LQZMK\[ Q\ QV\W I [IT\a Ă&#x2026;VQ[P N]TT WN PQV\[ WN PMZJ[ IVL \PM \aXQKIT VW\M[ WN \PM ^IZQM\a Romagna Sangiovese I Probi di Papiano Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Villa Papiano <PM VW[M Q[ I][\MZM IVL Ă&#x2020;WZIT _Q\P NZ]Q\ M`XZM[[QVO Q\[MTN LMTQKI\MTa 5QVMZIT IVL VMZ^W][ KWUXW[ML IVL ^MZ\QKIT QV \PM UW]\P Sangiovese NEW Romagna Sup. Assiolo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Costa Archi

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Sangiovese Sup. NEW Romagna Il Sangiovese ’14 | Noelia Ricci

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43 OCTOBER 2015

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VINI D'ITALIA 2016 Chianti Cl. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Badia a Coltibuono +PQIV\Q +TI[[QKW Âź PI[ []VVa IZWUI[ IVL I [I^WZa _MTT IZ\QK]TI\ML XITI\M \PI\ UISM[ Q\ MI[QMZ \W LZQVS \PIV UW[\ WN Q\[ \aXM Chianti Cl. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Bandini - Villa Pomona )ZWUI[ WN OZMI\ NZM[PVM[[ LQ[\QVO]Q[PML Ja I XZMKQ[M IVL QV\MV[M VW\M WN KPMZZa 1V \PM UW]\P \PM _QVM PI[ MVMZOa Q[ _MTT IZ\QK]TI\ML IVL LMTQKQW][ Chianti Cl. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Borgo Salcetino +TMIV IQZa NZIOZIVKM[ /ZQX IVL KWV\ZI[\ WV \PM XITI\M _Q\P IV MI[a \W LZQVS QVKQ[Q^M UW]\PNMMT Chianti Cl. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Castell'in Villa <PM VW[M WNNMZ[ LMTQKI\M VW\M[ WN ZML NZ]Q\ []KP I[ [\ZI_JMZZa IVL [W]Z 5IZI[KI KPMZZQM[ UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ LZQML TMI^M[ <PM UW]\P [PW_[ \MV[QWV IVL TMVO\P _Q\P I PWVML KTMIV Ă&#x2026;VQ[P IVL I [I^WZa QV\MZUQVIJTM KTW[M Chianti Cl. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Castello di Volpaia .ZM[P IVL []J\TM NZIOZIVKM[ LQ[\QVO]Q[P +PQIV\Q +TI[[QKW 7V \PM XITI\M TQOP\ IVL [I^WZa \I[\M XZWOZM[[QWV _Q\P Ă&#x2026;VM KWV\ZI[\[ Chianti Cl. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Le Cinciole )ZWUI[ IZM KWUXTM` []OOM[\QVO Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ PMZJ[ IVL PQV\[ WN [\WVM <PM UW]\P LM^MTWX[ _Q\P ZPa\PU KPQIZW[K]ZW VW\M[ IVL OZMI\ NZM[PVM[[ \PI\ QVKZMI[M[ \PM XTMI[]ZM WN LZQVSQVO Chianti Cl. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Villa Le Corti .I[KQVI\QVO IZWUI\QK \ZIQ\[ QV +PQIV\Q +TI[[QKW _Q\P Q\[ IT\MZVI\QVO VW\M[ WN UQV\ IVL NZM[P KPMZZa ) OZMI\ XZMT]LM \W IV MY]ITTa [I\Q[NaQVO XITI\M Ă&#x2020;I^WZN]T IVL R]QKa Chianti Cl. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Podere Val delle Corti 1\[ IZWUI\QK XZWĂ&#x2026;TM Q[ KZa[\ITTQVM IVL IT\MZVI\M[ _WVLMZN]TTa NZM[P KQ\Z][ VW\M[ Ă&#x2020;WZIT \WVM[ IVL PQV\[ WN MIZ\P IVL ZWKS 7V \PM XITI\M _MTT IZ\QK]TI\ML ZPa\PUQK \MV[M IVL QVKQ[Q^M WNNMZQVO I Ă&#x2020;I^WZN]T IVL LMMX UW]\PN]T Chianti Cl. Brancaia â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Brancaia ;TQOP\Ta JIT[IUQK IZWUI[ IZM MVZQKPML Ja NZIOZIV\ VW\M[ WN K]ZZIV\[ 1V \PM UW]\P M^QLMV\ IKQLQK NZM[PVM[[ IVL [IXQLQ\a \PI\ W^MZTIX _Q\P aW]VO IVL KZQ[X \IVVQV[ Chianti Cl. Bugialla Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Fattoria Poggerino .ZIOZIV\ VW[M _Q\P MTMOIV\ KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ VW\M[ QV \PM NWZMOZW]VL 1V \PM UW]\P OZMI\ LaVIUQ[U IVL Ă&#x2020;I^WZ LM^MTWX TI[\QVO QV\W I

LMMX IVL NZ]Q\a Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Chianti Cl. Gran Sel. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Tenuta di Lilliano =VTMI[PM[ I ZW]VL WN VW\M[ WN QZWV ZML JMZZQM[ IVL PQV\[ WN KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ 1V \PM UW]\P [_MM\ QUXIK\ IVL KZMIUa ZPa\PUQK LMMX LM^MTWXUMV\ Chianti Cl. Il Grigio da San Felice Gran Sel. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | San Felice +WUXTM` IVL NZIOZIV\ IZWUI\QK XZWĂ&#x2026;TM NWZ +PQIV\Q +TI[[QKW 1T /ZQOQW LI ;IV .MTQKM 1V \PM UW]\P [I^WZa LMMX IVL R]QKa Chianti Cl. Il Poggio Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Castello di Monsanto ,MTQKI\M IZWUI\QK XZWĂ&#x2026;TM IVL XITI\M KPIZIK\MZQbML Ja Ă&#x2020;I^WZ NZM[PVM[[ IVL ZPa\PU XTMI[IV\Ta MUJZWQLMZML Ja I \IVVQV PIZLVM[[ WN Ă&#x2026;VM KPIZIK\MZ Chianti Cl. Il Solatio Gran Sel. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Castello d'Albola ) []J\TM VMZ^W][ _QVM _Q\P XZMKQ[M LMTQKI\M NZIOZIVKM[ IV M`IUXTM WN Ă&#x2026;VM[[M IVL MTMOIVKM Chianti Cl. Lamole di Lamole Et. Blu â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Lamole di Lamole 8ZMKQ[M IZWUI[ WN JMZZQM[ IVL NZM[P KPMZZQM[ IZM I XZMT]LM \W R]QKa XZWOZM[[QWV WV I _WVLMZN]TTa [I^WZa XITI\M [][\IQVML Ja TQ^MTa IVL KWV\QV]W][ IKQLQK ^MZ^M Chianti Cl. Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Castello di Radda <PM VW[M Q[ _MTT LMĂ&#x2026;VML IVL QV\MV[M 1V \PM UW]\P \PM XITI\M Q[ KWV\QV]W][ _Q\P TW^MTa [UWW\PVM[[ IVL KWV\ZI[\ Chianti Cl. Rocca Guicciarda Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Barone Ricasoli +PQIV\Q +TI[[QKW :WKKI /]QKKQIZLI :Q[MZ^I Âź Q[ I XZMKQ[M _QVM _Q\P _MTT LMĂ&#x2026;VML IZWUI[ IVL R]QKa [I\Q[NaQVO Ă&#x2020;I^WZ Chianti Cl. Sergio Zingarelli Gran Sel. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Rocca delle MacĂŹe .ZIOZIVKM[ IZM N]TT WN NZ]Q\a IVL Ă&#x2020;WZIT VW\M[ _Q\P I JIZMTa M^QLMV\ JWQ[u [MV[I\QWV LM[\QVML \W [WN\MV _Q\P \QUM <PM UW]\PNMMT LWM[VÂź\ LMXMVL WV _MQOP\ IVL ^WT]UM J]\ ZI\PMZ WV I JITIVKML IVL LaVIUQK XITI\M Chianti Cl. Villa Cerna Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Famiglia Cecchi ;WTQL IVL R]QKa +PQIV\Q +TI[[QKW >QTTI +MZVI :Q[MZ^I _Q\P IZ\QK]TI\ML IVL XZMKQ[M IZWUI[ Rufina Lastricato Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | NEW Chianti Castello del Trebbio ) VW[M [\ZQSQVO NWZ Q\[ NZM[P KTMIV JW]Y]M\ _Q\P JIT[IUQK VW\M[ IVL TQ^MTa NZ]Q\ ?MTT

44 OCTOBER 2015

JITIVKML JWLa QV\MOZI\ML \IVVQV[ \PMV UQVMZIT IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ WV I XZWTWVOML IVL bM[\a IN\MZ\I[\M Colline Lucchesi Tenuta di Valgiano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Tenuta di Valgiano <PM ^QV\IOM aMIZ JM[\W_ML NI[KQVI\QVO IVL KWUXTM` IZWUI[ ;TQOP\ NW`a VW\M[ TMI^M \PM Ă&#x2026;MTL Y]QKSTa \W [XQKa ITUW[\ [UWSa [MV[I\QWV[ 7V \PM XITI\M \I[\a UW]\P Ă&#x2026;TTQVO IVL LMMX Cortona Syrah Il Castagno â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Fabrizio Dionisio 7V \PM VW[M Ă&#x2026;VM ^IZQMOI\ML JMZZa \WVM[ [WN\MVML Ja [XQKa VW\M[ WN JTIKS XMXXMZ IVL V]\UMO _Q\P TQ\\TM [PILQVO[ WN UQV\ 4QOP\ QUXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P \PI\ OI\PMZ[ NWZKM OZIL]ITTa LQ[XTIaQVO QV\MOZI\ML \IVVQV[ IVL \PM OQN\ WN I \I[\a ZMTI`ML Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Dedicato a Walter â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Poggio al Tesoro )V IZWUI\QK KQ\Z][a IVL PMZJIKMW][ XZWĂ&#x2026;TM _WVLMZN]TTa NZM[P IVL WZQOQVIT \PI\ _M Ă&#x2026;VL IOIQV WV \PM XITI\M Do ut des â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Fattoria Carpineta Fontalpino ,Q[XTIa[ QV\MV[M IVL ^MZa _MTT LMĂ&#x2026;VML NZIOZIVKM[ 1V \PM UW]\P \PM _QVM Q[ LMKQLMLTa [WTQL [\QTT ^MZa aW]VO J]\ ITZMILa _MTT LMĂ&#x2026;VML QV \MZU[ WN ZPa\PU IVL XZWOZM[[QWV Duemani â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Duemani 4Q^MTa NZ]Q\ \WVM[ []KP I[ JT]MJMZZQM[ IVL JTIKSJMZZQM[ MUJMTTQ[PML Ja VW\M[ WN [IOM IVL ZW[MUIZa _Q\P PQV\[ WN R]VQXMZ 1UXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P Q[ ^QJZIV\ _Q\P I OWWL Ă&#x2026;VIT \PZ][\ NWZ IJ[WT]\MTa XTMI[]ZIJTM TMVO\P Flaccianello della Pieve â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Fontodi )ZWUI\QKITTa XW_MZN]T _Q\P LMV[M IVL IZ\QK]TI\ML [\Z]K\]ZM .TIKKQIVMTTW LMTTI 8QM^M LQ[XTIa[ N]TT NZ]Q\a IVL NZM[P IZWUI[ ITWVO _Q\P LMMX R]QKa IVL ZPa\PUQK XZWOZM[[QWV WV \PM XITI\M Galatrona â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Fattoria Petrolo ) JZWIL IVL KWUXTM` IZWUI\QK JW]Y]M\ \PI\ ZIVOM[ NZWU ZQXM JMZZQM[ \W PQV\[ WN TQOP\ [XQKM[ []KP I[ R]VQXMZ IVL KQVVIUWV 1V \PM UW]\P QUXIK\ Q[ [WN\ IVL MV^MTWXQVO _Q\P \IVVQV[ N][ML _Q\P \PM ITKWPWTQK KWUXWVMV\ Oltreconfine â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Bruni NEW Grenache ) UWVW^IZQM\IT OZMVIKPM _Q\P XZM-

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I Sodi di S. Niccolò â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Castellare di Castellina <PM ^MZ[QWV [\IVL[ W]\ \PIVS[ \W Q\[ KWV\ZI[\[ IVL XZWOZM[[QWV WV \PM XITI\M Le Pergole Torte â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Montevertine <PM _QVM LQ[XTIa[ \PM UI[\MZa WN LMTQKI\M J]\ LMMX M`\ZIK\QWV \PI\ SVW_[ PW_ \W M`XZM[[ ITT \PM \MZZQ\WZaÂź[ XW\MV\QIT *MZZQM[ Y]QKSTa UISM ZWWU NWZ TMI^M[ IVL UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ <PM UW]\P Q[ KZQ[X IVL [I^WZa QV\MZUQVIJTM Lupicaia â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Castello del Terriccio ) [ML]K\Q^M VW[M _Q\P VW\M[ WN M]KITaX\][ ZQXM LIZS NZ]Q\ [XQKa PQV\[ WN R]VQXMZ 1UXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P Q[ LMTQKI\M _Q\P \IVVQV[ [PW_QVO ]X \QUQLTa IV IXXZWXZQI\M IKQLQK ^MQV IVL I Ă&#x2020;I^WZN]T TQ^MTa Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

Tuscany holds the record for Tre Bicchieri from organic wineries: 22 labels that respect nature and the environment Maremma Toscana Baffo Nero â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Rocca di Frassinello 5MZTW\ *INNW 6MZW Q[ QV\MV[M IVL MV^MTWXQVO _Q\P VW\M[ WN JTIKSJMZZQM[ IVL JT]MJMZZa RIU JIT[IUQK IVL UMV\PWTI\ML VW\M[ \QOP\ \IVVQV IVL M`\ZIWZLQVIZa KWVKMV\ZI\QWV Toscana NEW Maremma Podere San Cristoforo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Podere San Cristoforo ) NZM[P VW[M _Q\P VW\M[ WN ZW[MUIZa IVL JIa TMIN LIZS NZ]Q\ []KP I[ JTIKSJMZZQM[ IVL JT]MJMZZQM[ JIT[IUQK VW\M[ ;WN\ UW]\P _Q\P [UWW\P \IVVQV[ I NZM[P IVL \I[\a IKQLQK ^MQV \PMV I OWWL Ă&#x2026;VQ[P WN XW[Q\Q^M XZWOZM[[QWV Maremma Toscana Rocca di Montemassi â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Rocca di Montemassi <PM VW[M IT\MZVI\M[ NZM[P IZWUI[ WN 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ]VLMZJZ][P IVL X]ZM NZ]Q\ JT]MJMZZQM[ IVL K]ZZIV\[ PQV\[ WN JTIKS XMXXMZ 1UXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P Q[ [WN\ MV^MTWXQVO _Q\P NZM[PVM[[ LQNN][ML IVL _MTT QV\MOZI\ML

IVL I [I^WZa Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Mix36 â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Castello di Fonterutoli 5Q` Âź I UWVW^IZQM\IT [IVOQW^M[M LQ[XTIa[ XZMKQ[M IZWUI[ IVL [WTQL \I[\a XZWOZM[[QWV QV \PM UW]\P _Q\P I TWVO IVL NZIOZIV\ Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Montecucco Sangiovese Lombrone Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Colle Massari ) KWUXTM` Ă&#x2026;VM JW]Y]M\ _PMZM NZM[P [MV[I\QWV[ WN UQV\ IVL TI]ZMT IT\MZVI\M _Q\P NZ]Q\a VW\M[ WN KPMZZa IVL K]ZZIV\ ;]XXTM JWLa QV OWWL MY]QTQJZQ]U IVL IV QV\MV[M ^QJZIV\ Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Morellino di Scansano Calestaia Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Roccapesta 1UXIK\ WV \PM VW[M Q[ XW_MZN]T _Q\P ZQXM NZ]Q\ []KP I[ KPMZZQM[ IVL JTIKSJMZZQM[ \PMV ZMNZM[PQVO UQV\a IVL JIT[IUQK [MV[I\QWV[ 1UXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P Q[ TQOP\ \PMV OZW_[ QV I [\MILa UIVVMZ \IVVQV[ N][ML _Q\P ITKWPWT /WWL XZWTWVOML Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Morellino di Scansano Madrechiesa Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Terenzi 5WZMTTQVW 5ILZMKPQM[I :Q[MZ^I Âź PI[ I NZM[P JW]Y]M\ _Q\P VW\M[ WN UQV\ WV I NZ]Q\a JI[M WN [\ZI_JMZZa IVL KPMZZa 1V \PM UW]\P Q\ Q[ MTMOIV\ KTMIV IVL XTMI[IV\Ta JITIVKML MVLQVO QV I R]QKa XW_MZN]T Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Nobile di Montepulcianoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Avignonesi ) KWUXTM` IZWUI\QK XZWĂ&#x2026;TM WN UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ \WJIKKW IVL [XQKM[ ) ^QJZIV\ JWLa OWWL ZPa\PU I \I[\a JZWIL IKQLQK ^MQV IVL I Ă&#x2020;I^WZN]T Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Poliziano 1UXW[QVO VW[M _Q\P QV\MV[M IZWUI[ WN R]VQXMZ JIa TMIN IVL ^IVQTTI MUJZWQLMZQVO NZ]Q\a KPMZZa VW\M[ 1V \PM UW]\P _IZU R]QKa N]TT JWLQML QUXIK\ _Q\P I XZWTWVOML IVL [\QU]TI\QVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Nobile di Montepulciano I Quadri â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Bindella ) LQ[XTIa WN XZMKQ[M [XQKa NZIOZIVKM[ WV KTMIV KPMZZa NZ]Q\ <PM UW]\P Q[ [WN\ XW_MZN]T IVL JZWIL _Q\P IV IXXM\QbQVO IVL XTMI[]ZIJTM Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Nobile di Montepulciano Il Nocio â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Poderi Boscarelli +WUXTM` JM_Q\KPQVO NZIOZIVKM[ WN IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ []KP I[ UQV\ IVL JIa TMIN NZ]Q\ \PI\ ZIVOM[ NZWU XT]U \W JTIKSJMZZa IVL LMTQKI\M [XQKM[ []KP I[ V]\UMO /WWL QUXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P JZWIL IVL [QTSa WV \PM XITI\M

45 OCTOBER 2015

Nobile di Montepulciano Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Tenute del Cerro 6WJQTM :Q[MZ^I Âź Q[ QV\MV[M IVL UI\]ZM _Q\P I NZ]Q\a _MTT IZ\QK]TI\ML JW]Y]M\ WN K]ZZIV\[ IVL _QTL Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ ;WN\ IVL [QTSa QV \PM UW]\P _Q\P OWWL \IVVQK \M`\]ZM IVL I Ă&#x2020;I^WZN]T PQOP Y]ITQ\a Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Nobile di Montepulciano Salco â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Salcheto .ZM[P VW\M[ WN UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ PQV\[ WN UQV\ IVL \PMV KTMIV NZ]Q\ []KP I[ JT]MJMZZQM[ WV \PM VW[M 4QOP\ VWV QV^I[Q^M QUXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P I [\MILa \I[\a LZQVSQVO M`XMZQMVKM Oreno â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Tenuta Sette Ponti 7V \PM VW[M NZM[P PMZJIKMW][ VW\M[ M]KITaX\][ IVL [XQKM[ []KP I[ R]VQXMZ IVL KTW^M[ ITT WV I NZ]Q\a JI[M WN KPMZZQM[ 1UXIK\ QV \PM UW]\P Q[ [WN\ IVL [QTSa _Q\P \IVVQV[ _MTT QV\MOZI\ML IVL ZMTI`ML JWLa NWZ I TWVO IVL XTMI[QVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Orma â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Podere Orma )ZWUI[ IZM I TQ\\TM LIZSMZ \PIV ][]IT _Q\P ZQXM JMZZa VW\M[ IVL [XQKM[ J]\ QUXMKKIJTM M`XZM[[Q^M XZMKQ[QWV <PM XITI\M UIOQKITTa PI[ ITT Q\[ KWUXWVMV\[ QV MY]QTQJZQ]U _Q\P IV M\MZVITTa TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Paleo Rosso â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Le Macchiole <PM PI[ M^QLMV\ PMZJIKMW][ IVL [XQKa \WVM[ _MTT I[[MUJTML QV I XZIQ[M_WZ\Pa NZ]Q\a NZIUM 7V \PM XITI\M \PM _QVM Q[ JW\P UMI\a IVL ^QJZIV\ TQ^MTa IVL JZQTTQIV\ IVL PI[ M`\ZIWZLQVIZa LMX\P Petra Rosso â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Petra 5ILM NZWU KIJMZVM\ [I]^QOVWV IVL UMZTW\ \PM VW[M LQ[XTIa[ NZM[P VW\M[ WN JTIKS NZ]Q\ []KP I[ JT]MJMZZQM[ IVL K]ZZIV\[ QV\MV[M [XQKM[ []KP I[ OQVOMZ \PMV TQKWZQKM IXXMIZQVO IOIQV QV I UW]\P WN TQOP\ \IVVQV[ JITIVKML Ja \PM ITKWPWT KWUXWVMV\ ) TWVO IXXM\QbQVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Terre di Pisa Nambrot â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Tenuta di Ghizzano ) JTMVL WN UMZTW\ KIJMZVM\ NZIVK IVL XM\Q\ ^MZLW\ _Q\P I JM_Q\KPQVO VW[M \PIVS[ \W IZWUI[ WN ZML IVL JTIKS JMZZQM[ IVL I LMTQKI\M [XQKa \QUJZM <PM UW]\P PI[ ZPa\PU IVL OWWL \MV[QWV [M\ QV I NZIUM_WZS WN ZQXM IVL [I\Q[NaQVO NZ]Q\ Tramonto d'Oca â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Poggio Bonelli ) _MTT UILM +PQIV\Q +TI[[QKW _Q\P QV\MV[M IVL XZMKQ[M IZWUI\QK \ZIQ\[ M[XMKQITTa VW\M[ WN NZM[P ZML NZ]Q\ 7V I []J\TM IVL XZMKQ[M XITI\M Q\ LQ[XTIa[ KWV\QV]W][ IVL Ă&#x2020;I^WZN]T XZWOZM[[QWV

â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş

VINI D'ITALIA 2016 Vernaccia di S. Gimignano Carato â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Montenidoli 1V\MV[M KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IZWUI[ WV VW\M[ WN XMIKP IVL IXZQKW\ ;WTQL MV^MTWXQVO JWLa _Q\P _MTT LMĂ&#x2026;VML NZM[PVM[[ IVL I XZWTWVOML IXXM\QbQVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P Vernaccia di S. Gimignano l'Albereta Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara ) KWUXTM` VW[M WV _PQKP NZIOZIV\ Ă&#x2020;WZIT \WVM[ MUMZOM KWUJQVML _Q\P UQVMZIT VW\M[ IVL NZ]Q\ \PI\ IT\MZVI\M[ JM\_MMV KQ\Z][ IVL IXXTM <PM XITI\M [PW_[ OWWL _MQOP\ IVL I TQ^MTa IKQLQK ^MQV _MTT IUITOIUI\ML _Q\P \PM ZM[\ WN \PM KWUXWVMV\[ Vin Santo di Carmignano Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;08 | Tenuta di Capezzana >QV ;IV\W Âź KIV JM LMĂ&#x2026;VML I[ TMOMVLIZa _Q\P Q\[ VW[M WN IXZQKW\ _WWL JIa TMIN ITUWVL +WUXTM` QV \PM UW]\P" [_MM\ KZMIUa ^MT^M\a IVL M`\ZIWZLQVIZQTa TWVO

MARCHE Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Il Cantico della Figura Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Andrea Felici <PQ[ Q[ I UIZI\PWV Z]VVMZ 1\[ IZWUI[ KQ\Z][ []KP I[ OZIXMNZ]Q\ IVL KQ\ZWV QV \PM NWZMOZW]VL \PMV PMZJIKMW][ IVL UW]V\IQV Ă&#x2020;W_MZ [MV[I\QWV[ IZM \PM XZMT]LM \W I OZIVLQW[M N]\]ZM KWVĂ&#x2026;ZUML QV I XZWOZM[[Q^M XW_MZN]T IVL [I^WZa XITI\M Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Villa Bucci Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Bucci )ZWUI\QK PMZJ[ ITUWVL IVL I \W]KP WN IVQ[M KZMI\M I VW[M WN OZMI\ Ă&#x2026;VM[[M KWVĂ&#x2026;ZUML QV I XITI\M WN M`KMTTMV\ MY]QTQJZQ]U IVL [ITQVM \MV[QWV Il Pollenza â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Il Pollenza ) \Z]M *WZLMI]` [XQZQ\" I ZMĂ&#x2026;VML SITMQLW[KWXM WN LIZS NZ]Q\ JIT[IUQK VW\M[ IVL KMLIZ _WWL 7V \PM XITI\M Q\ Q[ I[[MZ\Q^M KWUXIK\ ITUW[\ I][\MZM ) OZIVL NI[KQVI\QVO _QVM Kupra â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Oasi degli Angeli 3]XZI Âź Q[ I UWLMZV ^Q[QWV _Q\P Q\[ MVKPIV\QVO VW[M WN )[QIV [XQKM[ Q\[ [WTQL IVL ZMĂ&#x2026;VML \MUXMZIUMV\ Q\[ Ă&#x2026;VQ[P KZIKSTQVO TQSM Ă&#x2026;ZM_WZS[ Offida Pecorino Artemisia â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Tenuta Spinelli ) TQ\\TM TM[[ [\Z]K\]ZM J]\ \PM QVLWUQ\IJTM JIKSJWVM WN )Z\MUQ[QI Q[ ]V\W]KPML I _PQ\M _Q\P I UW]V\IQV \MUXMZIUMV\ ¡ XQMZKQVO IKQLQ\a VW\M[ WN OZIXMNZ]Q\ IVL Ă&#x2026;MTL PMZJ[ I\ \PM JW\\WU WN MIKP UW]\PN]T

The fewest bottles produced of a Tre Bicchieri?

Oasi degli Angeli made barely 500 bottles of Kupra 201.

We drank a lot of them Pecorino Donna Orgilla â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | NEW Offida Fiorano

.ZM[P VW[M WN KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ ) XITI\M WN OZMI\ ^Q\ITQ\a IVL I ^MZa TWVO [ITQVM [\ZMIS

[\Z]K\]ZM QV Ă&#x2026;VM MY]QTQJZQ]U NWZ I _QVM \W KMTTIZ NWZ I TWVO \QUM Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Misco â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Tenuta di Tavignano )T[W QV \PM ^QV\IOM aMIZ \PM 5Q[KW [MTMK\QWV _QV[ W]Z UI`QU]U ZI\QVO _Q\P I KZa[\ITTQVM VW[M WV \WVM[ WN UQV\ ITUWVL IVL TQOP\ NZ]Q\ ;I^WZa UW]\P _Q\P \PM TQ^MTa IKQLQ\a \aXQKIT WN I KWTL aMIZ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Podium â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Gioacchino Garofoli )TUWVL IVQ[M XWTTMV IVL Ă&#x2020;WZIT QLMI[ [PILM QV\W MTMOIV\ JIT[IUQK VW\M[ X]ZM IVL ^MZa LM\IQTML WV \PM XITI\M KTW[QVO _Q\P JM_Q\KPQVO [ITQVQ\a dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. NEW Verdicchio Sup. QudĂŹ â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Roberto Venturi

Piceno Morellone â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Le Caniette )ZWUI[ WN Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ IVL [ML]K\Q^M [XQKa VW\M[ <PM UW]\P Q[ MUJMTTQ[PML Ja I ZMĂ&#x2026;VML \IVVQK _MI^M IVL UI[\MZTa MY]QTQJZQ]U

<PQ[ Q[ >MZLQKKPQW \W Q\[ [W]T _Q\P IKIKQI Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ ITUWVL[ IVL _PQNN[ WN IVQ[M IVL PMZJ[ <PM XITI\M Q[ \PZ][\QVO ^QJZIV\ IVL LZa _Q\P I[[MZ\Q^M [IXQLQ\a

Rosso Piceno Sup. Roccaviva â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Terre Cortesi Moncaro ;]XMZQWZM :WKKI^Q^I LQ[XTIa[ \PM JM[\ Y]ITQ\QM[ WN \PM 5WV\MX]TKQIVW OZIXM ZM[\WZQVO \PM QLMI WN X]TXa NZ]Q\ MUJZWQLMZML Ja ^MT^M\a \IVVQV[ _Q\P IV MV\PZITTQVO XITI\M IVL I ZMTI`ML XIKM

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Vecchie Vigne â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Umani Ronchi )V IUITOIU WN MTMOIV\ [MV[I\QWV[ WN IVQ[M JIT[IU IVL _PQ\M Ă&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ OQ^M[ >MKKPQM >QOVM V]IVKM[ QV M`XMZ\ PIZUWVa IZ\QK]TI\ML QV \PM TWVO TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

Rosso Piceno Sup. Roggio del Filare â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Velenosi )[ ][]IT :WOOQW Âź NMIZTM[[Ta [PW_[ Q\[ NZ]Q\a [W]T M`XZM[[QVO Q\ WV \PM XITI\M _Q\P KITQJZI\ML MVMZOa PMTXML ITWVO Ja Ă&#x2026;VM \IVVQK M`\ZIK\QWV â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Muròla NEW Teodoro <MWLWZW Âź KWV^QVKML \PM \I[\QVO

XIVMT N]TTa _Q\P Q\[ VW[M WN MTMOIV\ [XQKa JTIKS KPMZZa VW\M[ IVL XITI\M WN PMIT\Pa NZ]Q\ JW\P NZIOZIV\ IVL IZ\QK]TI\M Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Stefano Antonucci â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Santa Barbara .QVM IZWUI[ R]QKa IVL PIZUWVQW][ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Grancasale â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | CasalFarneto )T\MZVI\M[ _PQ\M Ă&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ IVQ[M IVL ITUWVL IZWUI[ WV \PM VW[M UMT\QVO QV\W I ^MZa [I^WZa IVL []XXTM XITI\M Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Il Priore â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Sparapani - Frati Bianchi -`XTWQ\[ \PM KWWT ^QV\IOM aMIZ \W ILL M`\ZI [ITQVM NZM[PVM[[ _Q\P I JIT[IUQK ^MOM\IT \W]KP \PI\ MUJMTTQ[PM[ \PM KTI[[QK I[[MZ\Q^M QLMV\QNaQVO XZWĂ&#x2026;TM ;IXQLQ\a IVL

46 OCTOBER 2015

Verdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Belisario ) VW[M WN KIVLQML KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL ITUWVL[ WV I XITI\M ^Q^QLTa KWV\ZI[\QVO XTIKQL ZQKPVM[[ IVL \aXQKIT 5I\MTQKI [I^WZa [MV[I\QWV[ ,MMX Ă&#x2026;VQ[P WN [I\Q[NaQVO QV\MV[Q\a Verdicchio di Matelica Collestefano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Collestefano 7V \PM VW[M ITUWVL[ IVL TQOP\ NZ]Q\ OZIXMNZ]Q\ IVL [ITQVM VW\M[ IKKWUXIVQML Ja I KTI[[QK [I^WZa IVL []XXTM XITI\M

UMBRIA Cervaro della Sala â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Castello della Sala ) XZWĂ&#x2026;TM J]QT\ WV MTMOIVKM IVL Ă&#x2026;VM[[M ;IKZQĂ&#x2026;KM[ I TQ\\TM QV \MZU[ WN []J[\IVKM \W [PW_ I KIX\Q^I\QVO ^MZ\QKIT Y]ITQ\a WN OZMI\ LaVIUQ[U Montefalco Sagrantino â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Fattoria Colleallodole ) ZML WN Ă&#x2020;I^WZ IVL I]\PMV\QKQ\a MV\PZITTQVO MIZ\Pa IZWUI[ WN LZQML TMI^M[ IVL JMZZQM[ ) OZMI\ KTI[[QK _Q\P XZIQ[M_WZ\Pa \M`\]ZM UQVMZIT ZM^MZJMZI\QWV[ IVL QVĂ&#x2026;VQ\M TMVO\P Montefalco Sagrantino â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Perticaia ;]J\Ta [PILML IVL [ML]K\Q^M ZML NZ]Q\

â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş

G I U S T I

W I N E

The Noble taste of Tradition

G I U S T I

W I N E

$ ', % $! (&' ! $! % ! ! $! #' %) & !! '' ! !

+ " ! # $ (&' * # $" + *** (&' * # $"

VINI D'ITALIA 2016 MVZQKPML Ja I KIX\Q^I\QVO JIT[IUQK V]IVKM 1V \PM UW]\P Q\ LWM[V¼\ [PW_ Q\[ U][KTM[ J]\ NWK][M[ WV Ã&#x2020;I^WZ <IVVQV [\QTT aW]VO WN ILUQZIJTM M`\ZIK\QWV Montefalco Sagrantino â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Romanelli )ZWUI[ IZM QUUMLQI\MTa KIX\Q^I\QVO IVL LQ[XTIa \aXQKITTa 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV \ZIQ\[ JM[QLM[ JMQVO MTMOIV\Ta [XQKa <PM XITI\M Q[ XZIQ[M_WZ\Pa [TMVLMZ IVL ^MZ\QKIT _Q\P ^MZa Ã&#x2020;I^WZN]T \IVVQV Sagrantino â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | NEW Montefalco Scacciadiavoli

<PM WXMVQVO QUXIK\ Q[ ZM[MZ^ML NWZ PQV\[ WN ZML JMZZQM[ _PQTM \PM [MV[I\QWV[ WN KQOIZ JW` KWUM QUUMLQI\MTa IN\MZ_IZL[ I[ LW [XQKa VW\M[ <PM \M`\]ZM Q[ ZMÃ&#x2026;VML IVL \PM Ã&#x2020;I^WZ KIX\Q^I\QVO ,MMX Ã&#x2026;VQ[P _Q\P _MTT M`\ZIK\ML aW]\PN]T \IVVQV Montefalco Sagrantino Campo alla Cerqua â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Giampaolo Tabarrini ) ZML _Q\P []J\Ta [PILML IZWUI\QK \ZIQ\[ ZQKP QV KPQIZW[K]ZW _Q\P I UIZSMLTa MTMOIV\ LW_Za WN [XQKM[ <PM UW]\P PI[ ZM[\ZIQVML JWLa LaVIUQ[U IVL LMX\P Montefalco Sagrantino Collenottolo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Tenuta Bellafonte <PM VW[M Q[ LIZSMZ \PIV QV \PM XZMKMLQVO ^QV\IOM _Q\P VW\M[ WN JTIKS KPMZZa ITKWPWT XZM[MZ^ML KPMZZQM[ IVL [XQKM[ J]\ Q\[ KPIZU Q[ ]VLQUQVQ[PML JMKI][M ITT \PM [MV[I\QWV[ IZM _WVLMZN]TTa MTMOIV\ Montefalco Sagrantino Collepiano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Arnaldo Caprai *ITIVKML IVL [TMVLMZ ITUW[\ LMTQKI\M _Q\P I ZML IVL JTIKS JMZZa \M`\]ZM IUWVO _PQKP IZM K]ZZIV\[ IVL IV IOQTM XITI\M Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino Trebium â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Antonelli - San Marco ;_MM\ IVL [I^WZa [ITQVM IVL LMMX \PM _QVM LIVKM[ JM\_MMV WXXW[Q\M[ ]V\QT Q\ Ã&#x2026;VL[ I UI[\MZN]T [aV\PM[Q[ Torgiano Rosso V. Monticchio Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Lungarotti ) [MV[I\QWVIT _QVM \PM ZM[]T\ WN I UM\QK]TW][ XI\P WN [\aTQ[\QK OZW_\P XT][ I ^QV\IOM aMIZ \PI\ UILM PQ[\WZa )TT \WTL I OZMI\ KTI[[QK WN \WUWZZW_

LAZIO Antium Bellone â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Casale del Giglio 1V Q\[ Ã&#x2026;Z[\ aMIZ WN XZWL]K\QWV \PQ[ _QVM TMIX[ \W \PM \WX ZI\QVO _QVVQVO W^MZ \PM XIVMT _Q\P Q\[ UQVMZITQ\a XMZ[Q[\MVKM IVL WTNIK\WZa \I[\M KWZZM[XWVLMVKM

Baccarossa â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Poggio Le Volpi 1\ XZM[MV\[ \W \PM VW[M _Q\P OWWL NWZM[\ Ã&#x2020;WWZ NZM[PVM[[ IVL VW\M[ WN ZQXM JTIKS NZ]Q\ 7V \PM XITI\M _M Ã&#x2026;VL VW\M[ WN KPMZZQM[ IVL TQKWZQKM _Q\P NIQZTa XZWVW]VKML \IVVQV I\ \PM [\IZ\ \PI\ TMI^M[ ZWWU NWZ KZQ[X TWVO NZ]Q\ Fiorano Bianco â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Tenuta di Fiorano ) ZQKP IVL KWUXTM` JTMVL WN OZMKPM\\W IVL ^QWOVQMZ QV MY]IT XIZ\[ \PI\ M`XZM[[M[ Q\[MTN WV \PM VW[M _Q\P ITUWVL VW\M[ aMTTW_ Ã&#x2020;W_MZ[ IVL _PQ\M XMIKP [MV[I\QWV[ 7V \PM XITI\M MVPIVKML Ja [I^WZa IVL UQVMZIT IKQLQ\a Q\ WNNMZ[ KWUXTM` IVL JITIVKML [\Z]K\]ZM Sup. Eremo Tuscolano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | NEW Frascati Valle Vermiglia

) XZMKQ[M VW[M _Q\P VW\M[ WN KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL ITUWVL <PM XITI\M Q[ KWPMZMV\ ILLQVO _PQ\M Ã&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ \W \PM XZWÃ&#x2026;TM ITWVO _Q\P PQV\[ WN KPITS IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Trappolini NEW Grechetto 1V\MV[M IVL KWUXTM` WV \PM VW[M

_Q\P VW\M[ WN ITUWVL[ IVL _PQ\M NZ]Q\ ) ZQKP [I^WZa XITI\M

Grechetto Poggio della Costa â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Sergio Mottura 6W\M[ WN KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL [IOM WV \PM VW[M 7V \PM XITI\M _M Ã&#x2026;VL IXZQKW\ _PQ\M UMTWV IVL JZQTTQIV\ [IXQLQ\a \PI\ ZMVLMZ[ \PM UW]\PNMMT TWVO IVL \I]\ Montiano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Falesco 5WV\QIVW KWVÃ&#x2026;ZU[ Q\[ M`KMTTMVKM IOIQV QV \PM ^QV\IOM LQ[XTIaQVO OZMI\ []J[\IVKM [XQKa IVL \WI[\a VW\M[ WN \WJIKKW IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ IVL ZML NZ]Q\ M[XMKQITTa KPMZZa

ABRUZZO Abruzzo Pecorino â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Tenuta I Fauri 8MKWZQVW [WIZ[ QV\W Q\[ <ZM *QKKPQMZQ ZI\QVO _Q\P NZIOZIVKM[ WN PMZJ[ IVL KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL I ZQKP LMV[M XITI\M Montepulciano d'Abruzzo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Tiberio ) ^MZa OWWL ZML \PM ZM[]T\ WN [XWV\IVMW][ NMZUMV\I\QWV IVL UQVQUITQ[\ MVWTWOa <PM NZ]Q\ Q[ KTMIV IVL U]T\Q NIKM\ML Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Cerasuolo Le Cince â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Nicoletta De Fermo )[ \ZILQ\QWV LMUIVL[ I XMZNMK\ _QVM NWZ NWWL _Q\P KWUXTM` VW\M[ WN JQ\\MZ ITUWVL IVL UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ <PM UW]\PNMMT Q[ QV\MV[M IVL ZPa\PUQK IVL \PM XITI\M KPIVOM[ KWV\QV]W][Ta JM\_MMV [_MM\VM[[ IVL IKQLQ\a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane Adrano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Villa Medoro )LZIVW ¼ Q[ VW\ \PM +WTTQVM <MZIUIVM

48 OCTOBER 2015

\PI\ aW] M`XMK\ MV\P][QI[\QK IVL ZPa\PUQK _Q\P WZLMZTa IZWUI[ WN XZMKQ[M NZ]Q\ IVL I [I^WZa VMZ^W][ XITI\M LM[XQ\M Q\[ XW_MZ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane Pieluni Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Dino Illuminati <PM 8QMT]VQ IV IUJQ\QWV[ XW_MZN]T IVL 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV 5WV\MX]TKQIVW +WTTQVM <MZIUIVM _WV M^MZaWVM W^MZ _Q\P Q\[ LMV[M \M`\]ZM [ML]K\Q^M _MI^M IVL [I^WZa ZQKP XITI\M Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Malandrino â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Luigi Cataldi Madonna <PM XITI\M Q[ N]TT ZPa\PUQK IVL NZ]Q\a [][\IQVML Ja OWWL ^IZQM\IT IKQLQ\a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Marina Cvetic â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Masciarelli 7V \PM VW[M KWUXTM` NZIOZIVKM[ \PI\ ZIVOM NZWU I[PM[ \W TQ^MTa KTMIV NZ]Q\ <PM XITI\M Q[ LMV[M IVL N]TT _Q\P QUXWZ\IV\ J]\ XZWOZM[[Q^M ^IZQM\IT \IVVQV[ 5W]\PNMMT Q[ [I^WZa IVL LaVIUQK LM[XQ\M Q\[ XW_MZ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Mo Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Cantina Tollo <PM VM_ 5WV\MX]TKQIVW 5W KWV^QVKML M^MZaWVM ZQOP\ NZWU \PM Ã&#x2026;Z[\ \I[\M _Q\P Q\[ ^MZa \aXQKIT IZWUI[ WN I[PM[ IVL TQ^MTa NZ]Q\ <PM XITI\M Q[ N]TT KWUXIK\ IVL ^MZa XZWOZM[[Q^M WV XZMKQ[M \IVVQV[ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Nativae â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Tenuta Ulisse 7V \PM VW[M \aXQKIT VW\M[ WN [WW\ JWVL _Q\P KTMIV NZ]Q\ <PM XITI\M Q[ U]T\Q NIKM\ML IVL [][\IQVML Ja ^IZQM\IT JIKSJWVM Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Podere Castorani Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Castorani 7V \PM VW[M IZWUI[ WN NZ]Q\ IVL 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV PMZJ[ <PM XITI\M Q[ N]TT IVL KWUXIK\ _Q\P \aXQKIT VW\M[ WN [WW\ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo S. Clemente Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Ciccio Zaccagnini ;IV +TMUMV\M Q[ IV IUJQ\QW][ IVL WZLMZTa 5WV\MX]TKQIVW \PI\ _QV[ Q\[ <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL \PIVS[ \W I N]TT M`XZM[[QWV WN \PM \MZZQ\WZa IVL IV MTMOIV\ \IZOM\ML XITI\M Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Spelt Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | La Valentina <PQ[ Q[ I 5WV\MX]TKQIVW _Q\P M`XTW[Q^M IZWUI[ WN JTIKS KPMZZa IVL UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ ) N]TT LMMX XITI\M _Q\P XTMI[IV\ [IXQLQ\a IVL IKQLQK VMZ^W][VM[[ Trebbiano d'Abruzzo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Valentini :MILa \W LZQVS IVL XTMI[IV\ WV \PM VW[M _Q\P NMZUMV\I\QWV IZWUI[ \PMV I []K- â&#x20AC;ºâ&#x20AC;º

VINI D'ITALIA 2016 KM[[QWV WN NZIOZIVKM[ ZIVOQVO NZWU Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ \W UMLQKQVIT PMZJ[ UISQVO I U]T\Q NIKM\ML IVL KWUXTM` _PQ\M \PI\ LWM[ R][\QKM \W \PM ^IZQM\a Trebbiano d'Abruzzo V. di Capestrano â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Valle Reale >QOVM\W LQ +IXM[\ZIVW Q[ I <ZMJJQIVW \PI\ QV \PM MLQ\QWV KWV^QVKML M^MZaWVM _Q\P Q\[ KWUXTM` \MZZQ\WZQIT IZWUI[ )V QV\MV[M IVL OTW_QVO XITI\M Ă&#x2020;WZIT IVL UW]V\IQV PMZJIT

The largest number of bottles of a Tre Bicchieri produced?

Feudi San Marzano makes 600,000 units of Primitivo Talò 2011 MOLISE Molise Rosso Don Luigi Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Di Majo Norante <PM ^MZ[QWV Q[ [\ZQSQVO NWZ Q\[ LMV[M IVL KWVKMV\ZI\ML IZWUI[ JIKSML Ja MTMOIV\ _WWL VW\M[ \PMV \PM \aXQKIT NZ]Q\QVM[[ WN 5WV\MX]TKQIVW OZIXM[ IVL \PM LIZS VW\M[ OQ^MV Ja I XQVKP WN IOTQIVQKW <PM XITI\M Q[ N]TT IVL XZWOZM[[Q^M _Q\P XZMKQ[M NZ]Q\ IVL ^IZQM\IT IKQLQ\a LM[XQ\M Q\[ ZQ[Sa UI\]ZI\QWV

CAMPANIA d'Amalfi Bianco Per Eva â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | NEW Costa Tenuta San Francesco

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Costa d'Amalfi Furore Bianco Fiorduva â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Marisa Cuomo .QWZL]^I Âź Q[ NZIOZIV\ _Q\P aMTTW_ Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ IVL WZIVOM bM[\ 2]QKa \W \PM \I[\M Q\ Q[ UWZM IOQTM \PIV W\PMZ ^MZ[QWV[ _Q\P I TWVO NZM[P Ă&#x2026;VQ[P WV \WI[\ML ITUWVL IVL IVQ[M \WVM[ del Sannio Biancuzita â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | NEW Falanghina Torre a Oriente

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50 OCTOBER 2015

Fiano di Avellino Clos d'Haut â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Villa Diamante 1V\MV[M IVL ]VXZMLQK\IJTM M^WT]\QWV _MTT X]VK\]I\ML Ja _PQNN[ WN XMI\ JTIKS XMXXMZ IVL [XWV\IVMW][ PMZJ[ [][\IQVML Ja I[[MZ\Q^M MVMZOa QV \PM UW]\P \W I [ITQVM IVL QV\MZUQVIJTM Ă&#x2026;VQ[P di Tufo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Fonzone NEW Greco <PQ[ [\Z]KS ][ NWZ \PM XMZNMK\ Y]ITQ\a

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PUGLIA Castel del Monte Rosso V. Pedale Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Torrevento <WVM[ WN JMZZQM[ _Q\P VW\M[ WN NWZM[\ Ă&#x2020;WWZ WV \PM VW[M <PM XITI\M Q[ NZM[P []XXTM R]QKa IVL LQ[XTIa[ OWWL NZ]Q\ Gioia del Colle Primitivo 17 Vign. Montevella â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Polvanera +WNNMM KPWKWTI\M IVL JTIKS KPMZZQM[ WV \PM VW[M IZM \PM XZMT]LM \W I []J[\IV\QIT QV\MV[M IVL LMV[M XITI\M _MTT [][\IQVML Ja IKQLQ\a Gioia del Colle Primitivo Et. Nera Contrada San Pietro â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Plantamura ) LMTQKQW][ _QVM _Q\P VW\M[ WN JMZZQM[ WV \PM VW[M <PM XITI\M Q[ \QOP\Ta _W^MV J]\ I\ \PM [IUM \QUM MTMOIV\ KTMIV IVL PI[ OWWL IKQLQK OZQX IVL TMVO\P Gioia del Colle Primitivo Marpione Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Tenuta Viglione ;XQKa IZWUI[ _Q\P VW\M[ WN JTIKS NZ]Q\ <PM XITI\M Q[ NZM[P \I[\a IVL R]QKa _Q\P I [XQZQ\ML Ă&#x2026;VQ[P WV \WVM[ WN 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ]VLMZJZ][P Gioia del Colle Primitivo Muro Sant'Angelo Contrada Barbattoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Chiaromonte ,Q[XTIa[ QV\MV[M IZWUI[ WN JTIKS NZ]Q\ _Q\P \WVM[ WN 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ]VLMZJZ][P <PM XITI\M Q[ R]QKa IVL [I^WZa _Q\P OWWL JITIVKM TMVO\P IVL M`\ZIWZLQVIZa NZM[PVM[[ Masseria Maime â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Tormaresca <PM ^QV\IOM Q[ ZQKP _Q\P MIZ\Pa IVL JTIKS NZ]Q\ \WVM[ QV\MV[M IVL _MTT UILM

Negroamaro â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Carvinea <PM ^MZ[QWV PI[ MIZ\Pa VW\M[ WN JTIKS NZ]Q\ IVL [_MM\ [XQKM[ WV \PM VW[M _PQTM \PM XITI\M Q[ R]QKa TWVO IVL XTMI[IV\ di Manduria NEW Primitivo Raccontami â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Futura 14

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CALABRIA Grisara â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Roberto Ceraudo -TMOIV\ IVL 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV WV \PM VW[M Q\ LQ[XTIa[ aMTTW_ NZ]Q\ IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ IVL [ITQVM ITUW[\ UIZQVM V]IVKM[ ) NZM[P IVL [I^WZa XITI\M JZQVO[ ^Q\IT NZIOZIV\ NZ]Q\ Magno Megonio â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Librandi )V IZQ[\WKZI\QK MTMOIV\ \MZZQ\WZQIT _QVM LMV[M IVL ZQKP QV _MTT IUITOIUI\ML NZ]Q\ QV[QLM I [XQKa IVL JIT[IUQK NZIUM Moscato Passito â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Luigi Viola <PM Q[ MTMOIV\ [ML]K\Q^M [_MM\ IVL ZMUIZSIJTa TWVO

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Aglianico del Vulture Il Repertorio â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Cantine del Notaio <PQ[ MUMZOML NZWU W]Z \I[\QVO[ NWZ \PM ZQKPVM[[ WN Q\[ 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV JW]Y]M\ Q\[ NZM[PVM[[ IVL NZ]Q\ QV\MOZQ\a Q\[ R]QKa UW]\PNMMT IVL \PM [WN\VM[[ WN Q\[ \IVVQV[

Etna Bianco A' Puddara â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Tenuta di Fessina ;ML]K\Q^M [WTQL LMĂ&#x2026;VQ\QWV WV \PM VW[M ¡ _PQ\M XMIKPM[ IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ IVL Ă&#x2026;VM UQVMZIT VW\M[ -^MZa\PQVO ZM\]ZV[ WV \PM XITI\M I[ NZM[P OZMMV []J[\IV\QIT NZ]Q\

Aglianico del Vulture Serpara â&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 | Re Manfredi - Terre degli Svevi -TMOIV\ KWVKMV\ZI\ML J]\ IT[W M`\ZIWZLQVIZQTa JITIVKML \PM _QVM LQ[XTIa[ []J[\IV\QIT ZML IVL JTIKS NZ]Q\ [UWW\P \IVVQV[ IVL MTMOIV\Ta KWUXTM` VW\M[ WN [XQKM IVL UW]V\IQV PMZJ[

Etna Rosso ArcurĂŹa â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Graci ) VW[M WN [XQKM[ QZWV IVL NZ]Q\ UW^M[ WV PIXXQTa \W ZQXM XMIKP <PM XITI\M Q[ TWVO IVL ZQKP QV NZ]Q\ _MTT MUJMLLML QV[QLM I VMZ^W][ \IVVQK NZIUM

Aglianico del Vulture Titolo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Elena Fucci ;\Z]K\]ZML IVL N]TT \PM _QVM LQ[XTIa[

51 OCTOBER 2015

Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Tenuta delle Terre Nere ) _QVM WN KWV[]UUI\M MTMOIVKM _Q\P XZMKQ[M [PILQVO[ WN [XQKM[ TMI\PMZ IVL â&#x20AC;şâ&#x20AC;ş

VINI D'ITALIA 2016 \WJIKKW ;WTQL NZ]Q\ M`\ZMUMTa XTMI[IV\ \W LZQVS Etna Rosso San Lorenzo â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Girolamo Russo -`\ZIWZLQVIZa -\VI :W[[W ;IV 4WZMVbW PI[ ZMĂ&#x2026;VML UQVMZIT IVL aMTTW_ NZ]Q\ \WVM[ -TMOIV\ [WN\ IVL [QTSa QV \PM UW]\P Etna Rosso V. Barbagalli â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Pietradolce ,MMX IVL ZQKP WV \PM VW[M _PMZM ZML NZ]Q\ UQVMZITQ\a [XQKM[ \WJIKKW IVL JIT[IUQK VW\M[ IT\MZVI\M ) ^MZa TWVO IVL XZMKQ[M XITI\M _Q\P I TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P WV _PQKP NZ]Q\ ZM\]ZV[ QV ITT Q\[ MTMOIV\ [MV[]ITQ\a Etna Rosso Zottorinoto Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Cottanera ;MV[]IT [_MM\ [XQKM TMI\PMZ IVL \WJIKKW WV I RIUUa JIKSOZW]VL 1V \PM UW]\P Q\ ITT ZM\]ZV[ _Q\P MTMOIVKM IVL TMVO\P â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Le Casematte NEW Faro -TMOIV\ ZQXM VW\M[ WN XT]U KPMZZa IVL JTIKS [XQKM[ [ML]KM IVL \W]KP MUW\QWV[ _Q\P \PMQZ ^Q^IKQW][ IVL ZMĂ&#x2026;VML NZM[PVM[[ Harmonium â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Firriato +WUXTM` 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV [MV[]ITQ\a WN NZ]Q\ IVL NZM[P PMZJ[ \PI\ MVPIVKM I XITI\M WN LMV[M MTMOIV\ KWV[Q[\MVKa â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Alliata NEW Lorlando ) JZWIL IVL LMMX VW[M KWUXTM` IVL MTMOIV\ I\ \PM [IUM \QUM >QJZIV\ V \PM UW]\P _Q\P I XZMKQ[M ZM\]ZV WN NZ]Q\ IVL TWVO XMZ[Q[\MVKM Sup. Semisecco NEW Marsala Targa 1840 Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;04 | Cantine Florio

1V\MV[M IVL aM\ TQOP\ _Q\P IZWUI[ WN [XQKM[ LZQML NZ]Q\ QWLQVM IVL KIVLQML KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ <PM UW]\P Q[ IUXTM MTMOIV\ IVL XMZ[Q[\MV\

The Red Wine of the Year, Etna Rosso Vigna Barbagalli 2012 from Pietradolce, is grown 900 meters above sea level, on Mount Etna

Cannonau di Sardegna Mamuthone â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Giuseppe Sedilesu 8ZQUIZa IZWUI[ WN ZW[M[ _QTL JMZZQM[ IVL [XQKM[ ) _IZU ITKWPWT TILMV XITI\M IT[W JITIVKML Ja JIT[IUQK IKQLQ\a TQOP\ [I^WZa [MV[I\QWV[ IVL ^MT^M\a \IVVQV

MZVM\ [I]^QOVWV +TMIV [XQKa IVL ZQKP NZ]Q\ WV \PM VW[M ZM\]ZV[ XW_MZN]TTa WV \PM XITI\M ¡ NZM[P [I^WZa IVL _MTT [][\IQVML Ja \QOP\ [\ZMIUTQVML \IVVQV[

Carignano del Sulcis Buio Buio Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Mesa 6W\M[ WN ZQXM ZML NZ]Q\ IVL 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV [KZ]J .ZM[P IVL [WN\ QV \PM UW]\P _Q\P XMZ[Q[\MVKM aW] KW]TL _ZQ\M I JWWS IJW]\

Sicilia Rosso Ramione â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Baglio di Pianetto ) JTMVL WN UMZTW\ NZWU ;IV\I +ZQ[\QVI /MTI IVL VMZW L )^WTI NZWU 6W\W )V IUXTM \MZ\QIZa JW]Y]M\ WN [XQKM[ V]\UMO IVL JTIKSJMZZa RIU <PM UW]\P ZM^MITML IOQTM LMV[M \M`\]ZM IVL I TWVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

Carignano del Sulcis Sup. Terre Brune â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Cantina di Santadi ) 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV IVL _IZU _QVM _Q\P VW\M[ WN ]VLMZJZ][P IVL ZQXM ZML NZ]Q\

Tancredi â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Donnafugata :QKP IVL MTMOIV\ _Q\P NZIOZIV\ NZ]Q\ UIZZQML \W []JTQUM \IVVQK IZKPQ\MK\]ZM ) _QVM WN M`KMTTMV\ Y]ITQ\a Timperosse Mandrarossa â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Settesoli .ZWU XM\Q\ ^MZLW\ I _QVM _Q\P IV M`\ZIWZLQVIZa IZWUI\QK XZWĂ&#x2026;TM _Q\P V]IVKM[ WN JIa TMIN JTIKS [XQKM[ 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV _QTL PMZJ[ IVL ZML NZ]Q\ .ZM[P ZMĂ&#x2026;VML IVL TQ^MTa QV \PM UW]\P

SARDINIA

Saia â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Feudo Maccari 6MZW L )^WTI _Q\P [\ZWVO \MZZQ\WZQIT XZWĂ&#x2026;TM" UQVMZIT [ITQVM LZQML ^QWTM\[ WV \PM VW[M IVL I LMMX VMZ^W][ ]V][]ITTa TWVO XITI\M

Barrua â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Agricola Punica <PM ^QV\IOM aMIZ WNNMZ[ I JW]Y]M\ WN UaZ\TM [XQKM[ IVL UMI\a ZML NZ]Q\ \PI\ Q[ I XZMT]LM \W I [TMVLMZ XITI\M _Q\P [WN\ \IVVQV[ IVL I TWVO KTMIV Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

Sicilia Bianco Maggiore â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Rallo ;\IVL[ W]\ NWZ \PM M`\ZMUM KTMIVTQVM[[ WN Q\[ WTNIK\WZa XZWĂ&#x2026;TM QV _PQKP VW\M[ WN UQVMZIT[ M`]JMZIV\ aMTTW_ NZ]Q\ RWaN]T VW\M[ WN NZM[PTa XQKSML IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ IT\MZVI\M <PM UW]\P Q[ []J[\IV\QIT IVL Q\[ NZ]Q\ [][\IQVML Ja I NZM[P IVL [I^WZa IKQLQK ^MQV

Cannonau di Sardegna Cl. D53 â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Cantina Dorgali .I[KQVI\QVO JW]Y]M\ WN JTIKSJMZZa K]ZZIV\[ IVL ZW[M[ 7V \PM XITI\M _IZU UW]\P Ă&#x2026;TTQVO IVL [WN\ _Q\P UI[\MZTa NZM[PVM[[ \PI\ MVTQ^MV[ \PM LZQVSQVO M`XMZQMVKM IVL TMIL[ \W_IZL I KTMIV NZM[P Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

Sicilia Deliella â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Feudo Principi di Butera -TMOIV\ IVL \MZZQ\WZQIT QV\MV[M IVL U]T\QNIKM\ML VW[M 2]QKa WV \PM XITI\M aM\ [\IaQVO NZM[P IVL [I^WZa

Cannonau di Sardegna Cl. Dule â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 | Giuseppe Gabbas ?WVLMZN]T IKQLQK NZIOZIVKM UIVIOM[ \W \ZIV[UQ\ ITT \PM KPIZIK\MZQ[\QK[ WN I OZMI\ 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ZML _Q\PW]\ TW[QVO LZQVSIJQTQ\a IVL Ă&#x2026;VM[[M

Sicilia NoĂ â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Cusumano ) JTMVL WN VMZW L )^WTI UMZTW\ IVL KIJ-

52 OCTOBER 2015

Capichera â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 | Capichera ) _QVM \PI\ JM[\W_[ IZWUI[ WN aMTTW_ Ă&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ bM[\ NZM[P ITUWVL IVL IVQ[M ,ZQVSIJTM NZM[P ^MZa [I^WZa IVL TWVO QV \PM UW]\P LM[XQ\M LM^MTWXUMV\ QV JZMIL\P

Turriga â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 | Argiolas ,MV[M I][\MZM IVL WN OZMI\ KWUXTM`Q\a 1\ M`MUXTQĂ&#x2026;M[ \PM OZMI\ 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ZML \PI\ KIV I[\WVQ[P aMIZ IN\MZ aMIZ Vermentino di Gallura Canayli V. T. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Cantina Gallura ) _PQ\M \PI\ LQ[XTIa[ IZWUI[ WN ITUWVL[ aMTTW_ Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ QWLQVM \WVM[ IVL [MV[I\QWV[ WN IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ \PI\ IZM XZMT]LM \W I XITI\M \PI\ Q[ N]TT OMVMZW][ IVL _IZU J]\ IT[W [I^WZa IVL MI[a \W LZQVS di Gallura Sup. MaĂŹa â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | NEW Vermentino SiddĂšra

) _PQ\M _Q\P IZWUI[ WN _PQ\M Ă&#x2020;M[PML NZ]Q\ IVL KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ NZM[P ITUWVL IVL _QTL Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ <PM UW]\P Q[ [TQU _Q\P Ă&#x2026;VM IKQLQ\a IVL I [I^WZa LMTQKI\M Ă&#x2026;VQ[P \PI\ KWUXTM\M[ \PM XITI\M Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Monteoro â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Tenute Sella & Mosca ) >MZUMV\QVW LQ /ITT]ZI Âź _Q\P KQ\Z][ IVL Ă&#x2020;WZIT VW\M[ \PI\ NWZ \PMQZ KWUXTM`Q\a _WV \PM <ZM *QKKPQMZQ \PQ[ aMIZ Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Sciala â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Vigne Surrau )ZWUI[ WN NZM[P ITUWVL IVL VW\M[ WN IVQ[M IV\QKQXI\M \WVM[ WN KQ\Z][ _PQ\M Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ Vermentino di Sardegna Stellato â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 | Pala )V M`MUXTIZa >MZUMV\QVW LQ ;IZLMOVI Âź _Q\P [I^WZa UIZQVM VW\M[ IVL I ^MZa TWVO XITI\M

The Soul of Barone Pizzini

It embodies the living nature of its vineyards This wine is the crowning achievement of a long process of pionering renewal, that led Barone Pizzini to become the first organic grower and winemaker in Franciacorta.

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GARDA

SPECIAL THE LAKE THAT THINKS ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S A SEA

Lake Garda is unique, an immense expanse of water that shapes the ecosystem, climate and culture of a great section of Italy.

The province of Brescia and its coast is the part that offers the appetite the most temptations, ranging from wine to fish, from cheese to olive oil 55 OCTOBER 2015

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by Maurizio Bertera

A record-breaking lake, with flavors to match One of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest tourist attractions, Lake Garda is divided among three different provinces. The Bresciano coast focuses on quality, in wine as much as in extra-virgin olive oil. Fresh-water fish dominates the table.

Visit this unique landscape during the mild weeks of early autumn

GARDA BRESCIANO

57 OCTOBER 2015

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T

hose from the Trento region will tell you quite correctly that Torbole and Riva are jewels inherited from the Austro-Hungarian empire that ruled here until 1918. Manicured towns, after becoming the mecca for windsurfers, they are now the capitals of mountain biking. The people of Verona, on the other hand, point out the elegance of Lazise or Torri del Benaco, the charm of Malcesine and Brenzone, or the joie de vivre you sense in Bardolino, and not only thanks to its wine. They’re right too.

But, if we’re talking about the variety and richness of food and wine experiences, the Garda Bresciano zone is ahead of the other two shores of Italy’s largest lake. Within eighty kilometers, along the coast, you pass from towns embraced by the rocks – perforated by the Gardesana, one of the most spectacular roads in the country – such as Limone or Campione, to

others that face beaches like those you ÅVL I\ \PM [MI XTIKM[ TQSM 5WVQOI WZ Manerba, with the greenest of hinterlands. From the silence of Gargnano (with fewer than 3,000 residents it has a three-star Michelin restaurant and \_W Å^M [\IZ PW\MT[ · \PMZM U][\ JM I Guinness record in there somewhere) you can move onto the crowds of conventioneers and tourists in Sirmione.

The romantic Isola del Garda and the retro Gardone Riviera, where lake tourism was born at the end of the 19th century, are now hangouts for VIPs in search of relaxation and wellness. Finally, there are the two main centers: Desenzano, historic, closely tied to Milano, but once much livelier than now, when crowds poured into its nightclubs (many say it’s better this way) and Salò, with elegant shops, restaurants, and one of Europe’s most beautiful lakefronts. The two are bitter rivals. Last year, in an interview in the local newspaper, Il Corriere di

VILLA FELTRINELLI

58 OCTOBER 2015

Brescia, noted local writer Camilla Baresani defended her Desenzano in the face of the ambitions of Salò. It brought down a storm of angry letters. The debate is open and lively, although, like Rome and Milano, each town needs the other.

From the border of Trentino to that of Lombardy, the key word in recent years has been quality tourism. The number of visitors (around ten million in 2014) is important, but is seen differently, although it does contribute, along with the other two provinces, to making Garda Italy’s number one tourism area. Restaurants seem to be a step ahead of hotels, which are too tied to monuments of the past in need of restyling. However, there are two extraordinary places, both in Gargnano: Villa Feltrinelli, run by Stefano Baiocco, which guidebooks consider number one, and the Lefay Resort, which continues to collect international prizes, above all for its spa and its eco-sustainability. These are two aspects that will come into their own in the coming years, perhaps in boutique hotels such as Locanda del Benaco or Bellariva in Gardone. It’s not easy to foresee the future for restaurants, not only because of the enormous size of the market, but also because of the absence of homegrown Garda-born talent. Riccardo Camanini is certainly the best. He started off at Villa Fiordaliso, but when he moved on to Lido 84, also in Gardone, he brought it to the top with cooking that is the most technical, modern, but also enthralling on Lake Garda. He also has TISM Å[P I ^MZa aW]VO JZQOILM I NIVtastic location, 1960s décor inside and tables at the water’s edge outside. To be absolutely clear: the established restaurants (La Rucola, Capriccio, Esplanade, Al Porto, Tortuga…) are still good, as are the historic trattorias and osterias (Alle Rose, Orologio…) but the zone needs a little fresh breeze, like the one called peler here, that blows over the lake in the morning. Perhaps

for young people, the future lies in hotel complexes: Matteo Maenza is doing well at the Grande Limonaia in Lefay Resorts as is Matteo Felter at Fagiano in the Grand Hotel Fasano and Nicola Morettini at the Locanda del Benaco. Other names to remember are Dino Colantuono (Rolly) and Saulo Della Valle (Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Osteria H2O), the latter from Garda and a student of Mauro Uliassi.

Today, made-in-Garda products are not just the focus of the innumerable local festivals. More respected than ever, especially in northern Europe, thanks to the internet, Gardaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s olive oil and wine, jewels that were once a little rough and ready, are now showcased by real artists of the trade (see box). Extra-virgin from the Garda zone, praised enthusiastically by writers in ancient Rome, now is recognized with the Bresciano DOP denomination (the others are Orientale DOP and Trentino DOP). Naturally, the olive growers of the west coast of the lake â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 125 of them, all told â&#x20AC;&#x201C; claim that theirs is the best. The problem for the entire zone, of course, is that the total quantity equals only one percent of national production. Particularly light and delicate, the oil is perfect WV ITT Ă&#x2026;[P VW\ WVTa NZM[P_I\MZ Ă&#x2026;[P I[ [WUM \PQVS IVL M[XMKQITTa WV ZI_ Ă&#x2026;[P As for wines, Lugana DOC is growing rapidly â&#x20AC;&#x201C; some of the wineries, we must mention, are in the Verona province â&#x20AC;&#x201C; selling close to 14 million bottles yearly. (A possible problem in the future â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a high speed train with tracks crossing and marring the area.)

Wineries such as CĂ dei Frati, Provenza-CĂ Majol, CĂ Lojera and Tenuta Roveglia stand out for their excellence. The new-born Valtenesi DOC has absorbed the virtues of Chiaretto to make a product with great potential for growth, as we see in wineries such as Costaripa, Avanzi and Le Sincette. Garda, Garda Bresciano, Garda Classico, San Martino della Battaglia and Benaco Bresciano IGT are also

MATTIA VEZZOLA

MISTER VINO VEZZOLA, THE BELLAVISTA GURU, NOW STUDIES ROSĂ&#x2030; He had to give up his veterinary studies, pressured by his father, Bruno, in WZLMZ \W TMIL \PM NIUQTa J][QVM[[ *]\ [QVKM \PI\ Ă&#x2026;Z[\ ^QV\IOM QV >IT\MVM[Q ¡ I\ \PM [\IZ\ WN \PM ! [ ¡ 5I\\QI >MbbWTI JWZV QV 5WVQOI LMT /IZLI PI[ _ZQ\\MV QUXWZ\IV\ XIOM[ QV \PM PQ[\WZa WN _QVM 1V ! >Q\\WZQW 5WZM\\Q MV\Z][\ML PQU _Q\P \PM TMILMZ[PQX WN *MTTI^Q[\I *]\ TI[\ aMIZ >MbbWTI WVM WN \PM O]Z][ WN .ZIVKQIKWZ\I ,7+/ TQUQ\ML PQU[MTN \W K]ZI\QVO \PM PQOP Y]ITQ\a WN *MTTI^Q[\I IVL _MV\ JIKS \W PQ[ VI\Q^M /IZLI _PMZM PM [XMVL[ UW[\ WN PQ[ \QUM š1 \WWS W^MZ \PM Ă&#x2026;ZU NZWU Ua JZW\PMZ QV ! IVL _IV\ \W LMLQKI\M \PM ZM[\ WN Ua TQNM \W UISQVO >IT\MVM[Q :W[u QV OMVMZIT OZMI\ IVL WJ^QW][Ta \PI\ QVKT]LM[ \PM WVM _M UISM I\ +W[\IZQXI 1\ Q[ \PM ZQOP\ UWUMV\ NWZ \PM WVM \QUM +PQIZM\\W \W MV\MZ \PM UIZSM\ QV IV QVVW^I\Q^M _Ia I[ I Y]ITQ\a _QVM I\ \PM KWZZMK\ XZQKM IVL VW\ I[ I JIZOIQV IJW^M ITT QV ZM[\I]ZIV\[ 1V 1\ITa \_MV\a UQTTQWV JW\\TM[ WN ZW[I\Q _QVM[ IZM [WTL IVL W]Z ,7+ U][\VÂź\ limit itself to the one million, three hundred thousand of today.â&#x20AC;? Devoted to PQ[ \MZZQ\WZa QV I T]KQL VW\ QLMWTWOQKIT _Ia >MbbWTIÂź[ []KKM[[N]T _QVMZa [MTT[ JW\\TM[ JM\_MMV >IT\MVM[Q :W[u IVL :W[[W I 4]OIVI IVL I LM[[MZ\ _QVM 8ITUIZOMV\QVI <PM [\IVL W]\[ IZM \PM UM\WLW KTI[[QKW JW\\TM[ I [\WZa \PI\ JMOIV QV ! IVL JMKIUM PQ[ XI[[QWV" JW\\TM[ 0Q[ XZWRMK\ NWZ \PM ,7+' š1ÂźU IQUQVO NWZ \_MV\a UQTTQWV JW\\TM[ IVV]ITTa <PM PMK\IZM[ WN ^QVMaIZL QV >IT\MVM[Q [PW]TL JMKWUM .M_ XMWXTM SVW_ \PI\ QV ! \PMZM _MZM \PI\ _MZM ][ML XWWZTa NWZ LMKILM[ _Q\P \PM ZM[]T\ WN ]VLMZUQVQVO \PM MV\QZM ^IZQM\a 1\Âź[ KZ]KQIT \PI\ WN \PM XZWL]K\QWV QV >IT\MVM[Q JM NWZ :W[u _QVM[ JMKI][M \PI\ Q[ _PI\ _QTT UISM \PM LQNNMZMVKM Âş <PM V]UJMZ[ IZM P]OM ITUW[\ QVKZMLQJTM >MbbWTI [UQTM[ š1 SVW_ _PI\ UIVa WN Ua KWTTMIO]M[ \PQVS *]\ 1ÂźU PMIZQVO \PM [IUM _IZVQVO[ IVL \PM [IUM WTL \PQVO[ [IQL IJW]\ >IT\MVM[Q :W[u \PI\ 1 PMIZL [IQL QV \PM MIZTa [ IJW]\ .ZIVKQIKWZ\I ;W Q\ LWM[VÂź\ NZQOP\MV UM I\ ITT Âş WWW.COSTARIPA.IT)

59 OCTOBER 2015

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DOC denominations. Wine is not the only game in town. Alta Garda is also known for its cheeses, ranging from those from Tremosine (aged Garda, Formaggella, ‘normal’ and with trufÆM[ IVL \PM ZIZM +I[I\ \PI\ IOM[ QV olive oil) to Tombea from Valvestino.

Honey, which is more and more organic, is often produced by olive oil and wine estates. )VL VW_ _M KWUM \W TISM Å[P \PM pride of Garda and now in a golden age, thanks, above all, to the few Å[PMZUMV ZMUIQVQVO _PW PI^M IT[W been convinced to respect seasonality.

Quantities are such that supplies can ZMIKP 5QTIVW 8QSM _PQ\MÅ[P NZM[P_Iter sardines, perch and chub are popular, and in recent years, native trout have returned. Fisherman are hoping to see carp one day soon. For reasons no one understands, carp live only in this lake and in the Caspian Sea. Carp were sought after by the Venetians for their banquets in their city’s golden age, transported from the lake to the

palaces on Piazza San Marco. Many food historians believe that the origin WN I \MKPVQY]M SVW_V I[ Å[P ¹QV KIZXQWVMº QV _PQKP NZQML Å[P Q[ TIaMZML QV terracotta containers and preserved in vinegar and wine, originated with the need to preserve carp for the market.

It is still a favorite recipe on the LomJIZL TISM[ ;QVKM W^MZÅ[PQVO PI[ UILM carp rare and extremely expensive (as much as 70 euros a kilo), the only road VW_ Q[ \W ZM[WZ\ \W IZ\QÅKQIT ZMXZWL]Ktion, and local universities have been called in for research. Carp farming has not been successful. Gianni Briarava of Slow Food, is a native of the Garda zone and owner of Trattoria alle Rose in Salò. He has been followQVO \PM Q[[]M KTW[MTa ¹?M¼TT SVW_ QV I NM_ aMIZ[ º PM [Ia[ ¹J]\ 1 IU WXtimistic and dream about new carp, perhaps born elsewhere but brought to Garda to grow. The lake is returning to the beautiful, clean state it was in during the 1970s.” Thank you, Mr. Briariava, for a perfect closing note.

THE COMINCIOLI ESTATE

60 OCTOBER 2015

MISTER EXTRAVERGINE COMINCIOLI. THE GUARDIAN OF OLIVE OIL

/QIVNZIVKW +WUQVKQWTQ [Ia[ PM \PQVS[ WN PQU[MTN I[ I XMI[IV\ entrepreneur. He has headed \PM NIUQTa J][QVM[[ [QVKM ! \PM ÅN\MMV\P OMVMZI\QWV *]\ QV ZMITQ\a PM Q[ \PM O]Z] WN /IZLI¼[ olive oil and one of the lords of \PM >IT\MVM[Q bWVM 1V PM _I[ IJTM \W \]ZV IZW]VL \W\ITTa \PM XZWÅTM WN \PM _QVM[ \PI\ PIL JMMV \PM JIKSJWVM WN PQ[ _QVMZa ¹1 _I[ \QZML WN _WZSQVO \PM [IUM _Ia I[ M^MZaWVM ,]ZQVO I ^IKI\QWV QV ;XIQV 1 [I_ PW_ \PMa UILM :QWRI IVL 1 LMKQLML \W KPIVOM 6M^MZ stop.” His extra-virgin olive WQT[ KWTTMK\ XZQbM[ QV 1\ITa IVL IJZWIL /QIVNZIVKW WXMVML I VM_ NZWV\QMZ NWZ WQT[" IV M`\ZI virgin made from pitted olives, _Q\P WJ[M[[Q^M KIZM NWZ \PM NZ]Q\ from harvesting to bottling, VM^MZ \ISQVO UWZM \PIV MQOP\ PW]Z[ I^WQLQVO M^MZa SQVL WN oxidation and impurity. From PQ[ \ZMM[ PM PIZ^M[\[ Y]QV\IT[ WN WTQ^M[ NWZ IV average yield of 5,400 liters of WQT 5I`QU]U Y]ITQ\a ZMY]QZM[ I aQMTL IUWVO \PM TW_M[\ IVa_PMZM · QV ZMKMV\ aMIZ[ Q\ PI[ JMMV IJW]\ PITN I VWZUIT extra-virgin. “We constantly try to do better than the year JMNWZM º PM M`XTIQV[ ¹_Q\PW]\ craziness, but by studying and _WZSQVO PIZL ?PMV aW] UISM WQT NWZ LIa[ aW] TQ^M Q\ hours a day. Our methods are ]VQY]M QV 1\ITa" PIVL [MTMK\QVO \PM WTQ^M[ \WOM\PMZ _Q\P ZM[XMK\ing the cultivar and having the QLMIT KTQUI\M QV \PQ[ bWVM UISM \PM LQNNMZMVKM QV \PM ÅVIT XZWL]K\ º <PM TQY]QL OWTL MVL[ ]X QV \PZMM OTI[[ ÆIKWV[ [QUQTIZ \W those used for perfume, called 4MKKQVW +I[ITQ^I IVL 6]UMZW =VW I JTMVL WN MQOP\ K]T\Q^IZ[ _Q\P XQK\]ZM[Y]M VIUM[ TQSM .I^IZWT :W[[IVMT IVL /IZOVo <PMa IZM K]T\ Q\MU[ NWZ \PW[M _PW TW^M WTQ^M WQT WWW.COMINCIOLI.IT)

A DISH BY STEFANO BAIOCCO

STEFANO BAIOCCO, CHEF VILLA FELTRINELLI

ADDRESSES WHERE TO SLEEP LEFAY RESORT | GARGNANO (BS)| VIA FELTRINELLI 163 | TEL. 0365 241800 | WWW.LEFAYRESORTS.COM <PQ[ Ã&#x2026;^M [\IZ PW\MT IJW^M /IZOVIVW LWUQVI\M[ \PM TISM 1\ Q[ NIUW][ NWZ Q\[ QV\MZVI\QWVITTa SVW_V ;XI IVL Q\[ QVÃ&#x2026;VQ\a XWWT <PM OWWL K]KQVI QV \PM ZM[\I]ZIV\ Q[ K]ZI\ML Ja 5I\\MW 5IMVbI GRAND HOTEL A VILLA FELTRINELLI | GARGNANO (BS) | VIA RIMEMBRANZA 38/40 | TEL. 0365 798000 | WWW.VILLAFELTRINELLI.COM <PM :][[QIV W_VMZ PI[ MVPIVKML I PW\MT \PI\ _I[ ITZMILa JMI]\QN]T []ZZW]VLML Ja OZMMV )UWVO Q\[ ^QZ\]M[ IZM \PM IJ[WT]\MTa MTMOIV\ LQ[PM[ IJW^M ITT ^MOM\IZQIV \]ZVML W]\ Ja KPMN ;\MNIVW *IQWKKW

A DISH FROM LOCANDA DEL BENACO

LOCANDA DEL BENACO MIT CAFFÃ&#x2C6; | SALÃ&#x2019; (BS) | LUNGOLAGO ZANARDELLI 44 | TEL. 0365 20308 | WWW.BENACOHOTEL.COM ) ZMKMV\Ta ZMVW^I\ML JW]\QY]M PW\MT QV I XZQ^QTMOML XW[Q\QWV ITWVO \PM TISM 7V \PM OZW]VL Ã&#x2020;WWZ _Q\P I KPIZUQVO \MZZIKM QV \PM []UUMZ Q[ \PM ZM[\I]ZIV\ UIVIOML Ja M`XMZ\ /QIVVQ *ZQIZI^I

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WHERE TO EAT

ANTICA TRATTORIA ALLE ROSE | SALÃ&#x2019; (BS) | VIA GASPARO DA SALÃ&#x2019; 33 | TEL. 0365 43220 | WWW.TRATTORIALLEROSE.IT <PM _PWTM PQ[\WZa WN 4ISM /IZLI¼[ IVL *ZM[KQI¼[ KWWSQVO" TISM Ã&#x2026;[P SQL U][PZWWU[ KPMM[M <WX Y]ITQ\a QVOZMLQMV\[ [MI[WVITQ\a LQ[PM[ \PI\ IZM VM^MZ JIVIT -`KMTTMV\ _QVM[ QV \PM KMTTIZ

CANTINA DEL BAFFO | LIMONE SUL GARDA (BS) | VIA CALDOGNO 1 | TEL. 0365 914061 | WWW.LACANTINADELBAFFO.IT 1[QLWZW +WV[WTQVQ M`XMZ\ KPMN NZWU >MZWVI [_Q\KPML NZWU WVM [QLM WN \PM TISM \W \PM W\PMZ \W UIVIOM \PQ[ TQ^MTa JQ[\ZW\ · KWUXTM\M _Q\P TQ^M U][QK · _PMZM PM QV\MZXZM\[ JZQTTQIV\Ta \PM TWKIT XZWL]K\[ WN TISM IVL UW]V\IQV

61 OCTOBER 2015

TRAVEL

OSTERIA DELLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OROLOGIO

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TEL.

LEFAY RESORT

0365 20019 |

WWW.RISTORANTELIDO84.COM

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62 OCTOBER 2015

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VIEW OF GARDA VINEYARDS

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THE POOL BAR AT LEFAY RESORT

63 OCTOBER 2015

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RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

by Francesco Seccagno photography by 35 Image Mix

MIND AND HEART ON THE LAKE

Riccardo Camanini Garda and Normandy live together in Riccardo Camanini’s cooking.

From Gualtiero Marchesi’s kitchens to Spain’s most innovative workshops to France – his food speaks to the heart and the palate. Great techniques, prime ingredients from his territory and beyond 65 OCTOBER 2015

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

GARDA AND NORMANDY In 2014, Riccardo Camanini celebrated 20 years at the stove. He began in 1994 in Mantua (Al Solito Posto). Then for two years he lived

by Gualtiero Marchesi’s side before moving around Europe with Relais & Chateaux. He settled successN]TTa NWZ Å^M aMIZ[ I\ >QTTI .QWZLITQ[W QV /IZLWVM :Q^QMZI .QVITTa _Q\P PQ[ brother Giancarlo, he opened his own restaurant on Lake Garda. We ÅVL PQU QV I ZMVIQ[[IVKM WN NZM[Pness and creativity – a return to his golden years. Skills and absolutely top ingredients in simple dishes speak directly to heart, intellect and palate. Garda and Normandy live together here, along with his in\MZVI\QWVIT M`XMZQMVKM[ QV .ZIVKM England, Spain, where he worked in San Sebastian – Mugaritz belonging to Andoni Luis Aduriz – and Paris, at Taillevent and others. Now Riccardo reveals his own style, a matter of contrasts, intuition, rethinking and originality, all of which emerge in the dishes we present here: a splendid and striking salad of chicken with cocques, or cockles (which can be replaced by mussels) and a [\ZWVO JQ\\MZ[_MM\ [I]KM .][QTTQ IXpear with a cream of almonds, razor clams, capers and lemon in a dish of great harmony and unusual toneon-tone color.

His winery also follows a creative and innovative path, under Giancarlo’s supervision. Sparkling wines are divided between ChamXIOVM IVL .ZIVKQIKWZ\I WJ^QW][ given the location). Other wines are grouped as “cheerful and merry”, or “lyrical and evocative”, “sincere and honest” or “introspective and enthralling”. Choices such of these connect well with Riccardo’s cucina, an experience of surprises and statements, forward movement and well-established roots.

LIDO 84 | GARDONE RIVIERA LOC. FASANO | C.SO ZANARDELLI, 196 | TEL. 0365 20019 | WWW.RISTORANTELIDO84.COM 66 OCTOBER 2015

(BS) |

PATATA AL BURRO, PANNA ACIDA, CENTROCCHIO POTATOES WITH BUTTER, SOUR CREAM, CHICKWEED PREPARATION

4 SERVINGS 1 KG YOUNG WHITE POTATOES

Peel potatoes and cut into long, wide, thin strips using a mandoline slicer. Roll the strips and drop into a casserole of salted Normandy butter until they are completely covered. Bake in 100°C oven for 5 hours and reserve at room \MUXMZI\]ZM ;MZ^M WV I ÆI\ XTI\M _Q\P I NM_ grains of gray salt, sour cream and chickweed.

500 G SALTED BUTTER 120 G SOUR CREAM GUÉRAND SALT COMMON CHICKWEED

(A WILD GREEN WITH A DELICATE FLAVOR)

67 OCTOBER 2015

FUSILLONI IN BIANCO, MANDORLE, CANNOLICCHI, CAPPERI E LIMONE FUSILLONI WITH ALMONDS, RAZOR CLAMS, CAPERS AND LEMON

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

4 SERVINGS 280 G FUSILLONI PASTA 80 G PEELED ALMONDS 220 G SHELLFISH LIQUID 200 G RAZOR CLAMS 75 G SEED OIL DEHYDRATED CAPERS LEMON

PREPARATION Blend thoroughly the shellfish liquid, almonds and seed oil, and heat for 10 minutes in a Thermomix. Open the razor clams, clean and cut into rounds. Cook the pasta in abundant salted water. Drain and season with enough almond mixture to cover the fusilloni. Add the razor clams, the caper powder and some lemon zest.

68 OCTOBER 2015

GALLINA NOSTRANA, COCQUE E DOLCEFORTE CHICKEN, COCKLES AND RAPINI SAUCE 4 SERVINGS 1 ROASTING CHICKEN 1 MARIANO CABBAGE 300 G COCKLES FOR THE DOLCEFORTE SAUCE

16 G SUGAR 100 G VEAL TENDON BROTH 20 G MUSTARD 7 G ANCHOVY SAUCE 1 ANCHOVY

75 G RAPINI

1 G GARLIC

40 G WHITE VINEGAR

1 G HOT RED PEPPER

70 G SHELLFISH LIQUID

4 G SALT

PREPARATION Simmer a roasting chicken in veal tendon broth for 3 hours. Open the KWKSTM[ I KTIU \aXM UWTT][K \PI\ TQ^M[ QV \PM [IVLa WKMIV ÆWWZ WN 6WZmandy, but also the Adriatic) in water and remove shells. Conserve their liquid. Blend all the ingredients of the dolceforte sauce in a Thermomix or food processor. Assemble the plate alternating the chicken, the cockles, the raw cabbage and the dolceforte sauce.

69 OCTOBER 2015

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

CROSTA AL CIOCCOLATO BRUCIATA CRUMBLE WITH BURNED CHOCOLATE INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

FOR THE COCOA POWDER AND ORANGE TUILE

FOR THE COFFEE CRUMBLE

160 G POWDERED SUGAR

50 G FLOUR

20 G BROWN CANE SUGAR

50 G GROUND ALMONDS

40 G WHITE SUGAR

80 G BUTTER

20 G COCOA POWDER

50 G SUGAR

40 G FLOUR 00 (PASTRY)

50 G COFFEE

100 G ORANGE JUICE 120 G MELTED BUTTER

FOR THE MUSCOVADO BROWN SUGAR TUILE

30 G BUTTER 100

G MUSCOVADO BROWN SUGAR

FOR THE BITTER CHOCOLATE CRĂ&#x2C6;ME BRULĂ&#x2030;E

1 LITER CREAM

50 G EGG WHITES

200 G SUGAR

45 G FLOUR 00 (PASTRY)

150 G EGG YOLKS

WATER

250 G CHOCOLATE

70 OCTOBER 2015

Prepare the crumble: mix all the inOZMLQMV\[ I\ ZWWU \MUXMZI\]ZM .WZU a sausage using plastic wrap, freeze, Grate and bake in 160°C oven for 8 minutes.

The muscavado tuile: caramelize the sugar with water. Away from the heat add butter. When the mixture is tepid, ILL MOO _PQ\M[ IVL Ă&#x2020;W]Z ;XZMIL W]\ on very thin silpat and bake at 168°C. Remove from oven and fold into irregular shapes.

Make the bitter chocolate crème JZ]TuM" XI[\M]ZQbM \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ QVOZMLQents, remove from heat, add chocolate and cook at 100°C for about 50 minutes. ;MZ^M WV I Ă&#x2020;I\ LQ[P IVL J]ZV _Q\P I PW\ iron to give diners a sensation of toast.

FUSILLONI WITH ALMONDS, RAZOR CLAMS,

POTATOES WITH BUTTER, SOUR CREAM, CHICKWEED

CAPERS AND LEMON

FRANCIACORTA DOSAGGIO ZERO | ANDREA ARICI | COLLINE DELLA STELLA | GUSSAGO (BS) | WWW.COLLINEDELLASTELLA.COM

SERESE 2013 | CASCINA BELMONTE | MUSCOLINE (BS) | WWW.CASCINABELMONTE.IT

This wine contributes a note of acidity and contrasts its pungent notes to the round sweetness and fattiness of the potato cooked in butter and served with cream. But the bubbles also go well with the elegance of the dish, since it is a dosage zero of monovarietal chardonnay.

The wine is a blend of incrocio Manzoni and riesling renano grapes, a local, fresh wine with citrus notes that go with the lemons, capers and razor clams, while its mineral aspect pairs with the ^MT^M\a JQ\\MZ[_MM\ ÆI^WZ WN \PM ITUWVL UQTS

CHICKEN, COCKLES AND RAPINI SAUCE

CRUMBLE WITH BURNED CHOCOLATE

ETNA ROSSO A RINA 2012 | GIROLAMO RUSSO | CASTIGLIONE DI SICILIA (CT) | WWW.GIROLAMORUSSO.IT

RECIOTO DELLA VALPOLICELLA SANT’ULDERICO 2010 | MONTE DALL’ORA | SAN PIETRO IN CARIANO (VR) | WWW.MONTEDALLORA.COM

A great Sicilian Tre Bicchieri wine that brings together indigenous nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccino grapes. The mineral elMOIVKM WN \PM[M OZIXM[ NZWU ^WTKIVQK [WQT XIQZ[ _MTT _Q\P \PM ÅZU chicken meat, the iodine sensation of the mollusks and the sweet IVL [W]Z ÆI^WZ WN \PM LWTKMNWZ\M [I]KM

A spicy and complex sweet wine, made by Carlo and Alessandra >MV\]ZQVQ N]TTa ZM[XMK\QVO \PM \aXQKQ\a WN \PM OZIXM[" Q\ [][\IQV[ \PM burnt, bitter taste of the caramelized crust and accompanies the creaminess of the dessert.

71 OCTOBER 2015

LETTER FROM PARIS

2015 – A PROMISING VINTAGE YEAR! How was the grape harvest in Italy? All the Italian friends we contacted, no matter what their region, seemed very optimistic. In France, it’s obvious that we have had an exceptional vintage year. And that’s exceptional in the literal sense, that is, with unique character and potential that can’t be compared to any other year. Various regions and microclimates experienced the vintage differently, but certain fundamental elements were similar everywhere. The year was the warmest and sunniest since weather statistics have been recorded. It was sunnier than 1947 or 1921.

The vines suffered a long period of heat and drought from July until mid-August. The heat was especially stressful on the granite soils of the country’s eastern section, which had the highest temperatures of all, with many days above 40°C (104°F) on southern exposures. The only exceptions were on the Mediterranean shore and Corsica, where fortunately it rained at the end of the spring, and in the Bordeaux zone, where an abundance of winter rain was a blessing. Every other French region was deeply pessimistic about the vintage, especially because the precocious vegetative cycle left the berries liable to burn during the exact time when they needed to produce sugars. A major attack of oidium (powdery mildew) in late spring was a disaster for some improvident winegrowers, who lost a large part of their pro-

duction. Overall, though, the health of the country’s grapes was impeccable. This was the only consolation for the growers before, on about August 20th, miraculous, almost too abundant, rains came and vegetation took off once more. In the six following weeks, long sunny periods reappeared, nights were cool, rain fell from time to time, occasional storms shook some parts of the southwest and Languedoc. This weather pattern contributed to the perfect maturation of the grapes, allowing them to reach absolute peaks of sugar richness, while maintaining a good balance with acidity.

The malic acid of the grapes was consumed by the summer heat, favouring tartaric acid, a factor that brought about much lower PH levels than were seen in 2003 or 2009, other very hot years. Harvesting began immediately after August 20 in the earlier-ripening zones. Everyone had to choose between harvesting early to avoid overly-high sugar concentration, thereNWZM PMI^a _QVM[ \PI\ _MZM LQNÅK]T\ \W ^QVQNa WZ ZQ[SQVO everything in order to reach the grapes’ full aromatic and phenolic maturity. The only certainty was that most winemakers, all except the unluckiest, were able to produce quality wines, especially since yields were low everywhere. The exception to this was once again in Champagne, which had its usual good luck.

Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauve 72

OCTOBER 2015

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