Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - April 2016 by Gambero Rosso

WWW.GAMBEROROSSO.IT YEAR 21 N. 95 - APRIL 2016

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

Verona

t ANTEPRIME BRUNELLO 2011 AMARONE 2012 t TRAVEL & FOOD CUBA t EVENTS EN PRIMEUR TASTING

FOOD&WINE PERBELLINI: EXPLORE MY CITY

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a tavola april 2016

COVER STORY 42 | Verona: La mia Casa Perbellini talks about his favorite places. The chef, who has JMMV \PM [aUJWT WN >MZWVI¼[ PW[XQ\ITQ\a NWZ \_MV\a Å^M aMIZ[ tells about the many culinary sites he created in the city he returned to a little over a year ago, to realize his dream..

WINE

21 | Outperform Rating on Brunello 2011 A good vintage year – uncork without concern. This could be the motto to frame the 2011 Montalcino harvest. The year’s climate is perceptible in a large series of wines that are aromatically open, with a Mediterranean feel, mainly focused on ripe fruit, spices, underbrush. Great M`XMK\I\QWV[ IVL [WUM LQ[IXXWQV\UMV\[ NZWU \PM Å[\ TWWS at the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010... 40| Amarone 2012: a mediocre vintage 2012 was a complicated year, uphill all the way for most of Italy, as well as for the rest of Europe. In our tastings, we found a series of ready and expressive wines, in some cases already low on energy, with marked fruity components on one hand, but also with a consistently more thoughtful use of oak and less concentration than you might expect...

2 MARCH 2016

«This is one of the disadvantages of wine, it makes a man mistake words for thoughts» Samuel Johnson 73

TRAVEL

NEWS & MORE

52 | Cuba: the allure of the Caribbean In a period of effervescent transition, after the reopening of embassies and the recent trip of the pope, this Caribbean island is a fascinating place to visit. It is exciting to experience the blend between old style and the new on its way in

FOOD 58 | Recipes from Great Chefs: Perbellini The challenge coming from Giancarlo Perbellini in his Verona Casa: cook only with a small number of meticulously chosen ingredients, those that the season and the farmers’ markets offer. Each dish, then, has its logic and its coherence

3 MARCH 2016

EDITORIAL

VINITALY 30 YEARS AGO

For a few days each year, Verona becomes the Italian capital of wine tasting, the place where you meet everyone, try everything, explore what’s new. This has been going on for 50 years, since 1967. From its quiet beginnings, it has become the international stage for the stars of the recent history of Italian wine, the place for those winemakers who, tired of small town festivals, want the entire world to recognize the extraordinary quality of their products. 1 ^Q[Q\ML NWZ \PM ÅZ[\ \QUM \PQZ\a aMIZ[ IOW QV ! 1\ _I[ a critical moment in the history of Italy’s enology. A few days before, the scandal of adulterated wine had exploded. It involved a number of companies that had handled \PM QVNIUW][ TQY]QL XZWL]KML Ja \PM +QZI^MOVI ÅZU WN Narzole, in the province of Cuneo, on the shore of the Tanaro river. That liquid took the lives of 23 people. A criminal in a small town on the border of the extraordinary world of the Langa, of Barolo and Barbaresco, was able to imperil the efforts of a generation of grapegrowers who had decided to make Italian wine great. They had just begun to garner the success they deserved in the world. Morale was low in those days. Exports had slumped. Italian wines were stopped at the German border to await new analyses.

?PQTM 1 _ITSML IZW]VL \PM XI^QTQWV[ L]ZQVO \PI\ ÅZ[\ visit, I felt someone grab my arm. I found a glass thrust into one hand and a slice of salami into the other. A giant of a man shouted, “Taste how great this Barbera is!!!” The wine, lively and fragrant, was very, very good. The salami was extraordinary. The man who grabbed my arm was Giacomo Bologna, the father of modern *IZJMZI )V QVVSMMXMZ WN :WKKPM\\I <IVIZW ÅN\a SQlometers away from the despicable Narzole, Bologna had traveled around the most prestigious wineries in the world to learn how the greatest wines were made. After my baptism with Monella, I was found worthy of tasting Bricco dell’Uccellone, his great wine, a grand vin. Thanks to him and those wines, I understood that I had found my own world. I saw that the universe of Italian wine would, in the end, make it through this disaster. We dedicate the wine pages that follow to Giacomo Tachis, who has just passed away, to Giacomo Bologna, and to all those who over the years have made Italian wine so wonderful, and so beloved around the world.

Marco Sabellico 4

APRIL 2016

WINE AND ECONOMY

OXYGEN AND SULFITES. Research explains how they influence each other and how to manage them

PRESIDENTIAL PRIMARIES IN THE USA. Trump wine versus Sanders’ beer In the United States, the presidential primaries don’t exclude alcohol. In one of his recent press conferences in Florida, Republican candidate Donald Trump promoted his winegrowing estate in Virginia. Trump Winery (800 hectares, of which 81 are vineyard) is run by his son Eric. “It is the largest winery estate on the East Coast,” he affirmed, underlining that the enterprise had never incurred any debt. It was a response to the accusations of ex-candidate Mitt Romney, who pointed out that every Trump Business (except wine) had failed, from Trump Airlines to Trump University, from Trump Vodka to Trump Steaks. Meanwhile, on the Democrat front, another alcoholic drink enlivened the primaries. Windsor’s Motor Craft Ales dedicated a beer to Bernie Sanders, calling it Bernie. It will be available in a few weeks in a limited edition.

What happens to wine in the presence of oxygen? What is the destiny of exogenous anti-oxidants such as sulfur dioxide? These are the questions that a research group formed by Cantine Mezzacorona, Fondazione Edmund Mach and Nomacorc, a wine-closure giant, asked. The study was carried out on 12 white wines, produced from six different grape varieties and in the presence of different quantities of oxygen. “We discovered new chemical reactions that involve sulfur dioxide. We found out that sulfur dioxide reacts with other anti-oxidants present in wine, such as glutathione, reducing their overall anti-oxidant capacity,” explained Panagiotis Arapitsas, researcher with the Fondazione Edmund Mach. “Instead of having an add-

6 APRIL 2016

on effect, they eliminate each other, leaving the wine less protected.” And now, what will be the practical application of the experimentation? “This discovery,” Arapitsas continued, “will help us towards a more intelligent use of sulfur dioxide. In fact, regular measurement of the compounds capable of reacting with sulfites could contribute to our better judging the concentration of sulfites appropriate to best protecting wine, and eventually, lead to reducing the quantity of sulfite dioxide added.” In this way, it will be possible to find new indicators to better understand the capacity of each wine to resist oxidation, and therefore winemakers will be able to better judge how to manage the presence of oxygen during and after bottling.

UNITED KINGDOM. NEW INCREASE IN WINE TAX. Beers and spirits unchanged. Winegrowers’ associations protest: “The regulation damages a growing sector.” Bad news for wine commerce in the United Kingdom. Chancellor George Osborne, presenting his new budget to Parliament, announced that the tax on wine _QTT QVKZMI[M _Q\P QVÆI\QWV ITWVO _Q\P \PI\ WV KQOIrettes. Other alcoholic beverages, however, will remain unchanged. The announcement distressed the =3 _QVM _WZTL _WZZQML IJW]\ ÅVIVKQIT XZM[[]ZM[ on the sector, above all in a moment when the sterling seems weak against the euro, a factor that works against imports from countries such as France, Spain and Italy. The tax on wine in the United Kingdom is the second highest in Europe (after Ireland). Just last year it brought four billion pounds sterling into the government cash drawer. In practice, at the moment (without considering the new increase), the tax on an I^MZIOM XZQKM JW\\TM WN _QVM WN Å^M XW]VL[ Q[ MY]IT \W 55%, or 2.75 pounds. Wine has not had the 1984 excise taxes reduced. Moreover, the tax clips the wings of the emerging wine industry in England. The effects _QTT [WWV JM M^QLMV\ QV \PM KPIZ\[ WN M`XWZ\ ÅO]ZM[ \W the United Kingdom.

ITALIAN SPUMANTE IS THE WORLD’S FAVORITE. Because it costs less? Once again in 2015, the export of Italian sparkling wine grew more than that of its competitors, France and Spain. In terms of volume, the increase was 13% (2.7 million hectoliters) compared to 7% for the French (1.8 million hectoliters) and the 4% for the Spanish (1.6 UQTTQWV PMK\WTQ\MZ[ 1V \PM ÅZ[\ \PZMM QUXWZ\ UIZSM\[ in the world for this type of wine (the United States, United Kingdom and Germany) the proportion of Italian spumante in the total sparkling wine market reached 59% in the UK, 51% in the USA and 29% in Germany. (In the latter case, the data doesn’t include frizzanti wines, which are a relevant element in German imports: from Italy alone, over 500,000 hectoliters arrived in 2015, most of it Prosecco). Although the array of sparkling wines is very varied and not easily comparable among the different exporting countries (above all in terms of production method, i.e Charmat or bottle fermentation), the fact remains that if, instead of volume you consider value, the Italian share diminishes sharply. The average price at export of French sparkling

wines is 3 times that of Italian ones in Germany, 5 times in the USA and 6 times in the UK. If you compare it to Champagne, the difference increases exponentially (over 8 times in the USA). But the difference still remains if you restrict the comparison to spumante DOPs (excluding Champagne in France and Asti in Italy). In this case, the price of French sparkling wine is about 1.5 times that of Italian. The top ranking for affordability goes to the Spanish: In Germany, the average price paid in 2015 was less than 2 euros per liter.

7 APRIL 2016

NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

ROCOOK. Vacuum cooking for all, from the Roca brothers, now on the home appliance market

IN THE UNITED ARAB EMIRATES, A FARM SYSTEM WILL PRODUCE BOTH BIOFUEL AND FOOD. At the same time A recently published study in SciMV\QÅK :MXWZ\[ IVITabML \PM XZWduction of biofuel in 2013. It showed that if maize, wheat, soy, sugar cane, palm oil and rapeseed oil were destined to be used as food, they could feed a third of the undernourished people on the planet. This is why it is important to develop more sustainable production methods, such as that being studied in the United Arab Emirates. A new plant will produce food and N]MT I\ \PM [IUM \QUM I ÅZ[\ <PQ[ Abu Dhabi project is innovative in many ways. Surrounded by desert, the farm uses sea water to irrigate IVL NIZU Å[P IVL [PZQUX XZWL]King algae and aquatic plants which are destined for use as biofuel. The

idea emerged from collaboration between the Masdar Institute of Science and Technology and Etihad. Boeing and Honeywell UOP have contracted to build the plant to produce renewable biofuel for the aviation industry. The principle is simple. The pilot project will use seawater and recycled waste _I\MZ \W OZW_ Å[P IVL [PZQUX NWZ food, and the waste will then be pumped into a tank full of salttolerant plants grown for use as aviation biofuel and fertilizer for mangroves. The aviation industry has understood the importance of investing in researching biofuels for airplane motors. The innovative Abu Dhabi solution seems to satisfy all. 8 APRIL 2016

The wait for a table at the restaurant Celler de Can Roca, in Girona, in Spain, can last almost a year, but the culinary experiences served up by the two brothers is unforgettable. In their search for creative approaches to cooking, the Roca brothers also conduct their own avant-garde research into kitchen techniques. In partnership with Cata Electrodomésticos, they invented Rocook, an induction plate connected by Bluetooth to a thermostat for cooking at high and low temperatures. It comes with the cookbook entitled “Lowtemperature cooking with Joan Roca”, distributed by Planeta. In their own kitchens, home chefs can attain a perfect vacuum that permits low-temperature cooking like that perfected over decades in Celler de Can Roca. The appliance and book cost less than 400 euros. As Joan Roca often says, “The best restaurant in the world doesn’t exist, and the best cooking is a mother’s.”

WHERE TO EAT PIZZA. The Phaidon encyclopedia helps find the nearest pizzeria. Anywhere in the world

SAVINI AT CRITERION. 150 years of history, from Milano to London. Another triumph for Italian cucina in the world Last year the Criterion on Piccadilly Circus, one of London’s historic restaurants, closed its doors. The expenses of managing the site had become overwhelming. In December 2015, however, an Italian buyer decided to invest in the prestigious location, and the new owner of the Criterion is the Gatto family, known for its restaurant in the Galleria in Milano, Savini. So today, diners at Savini at Criterion _QTT ÅVL I]\PMV\QK 1\ITQIV QVOZMLQents and Italian recipes at this classic London address. Some examples of the tried and true dishes on the menu: roast pork with heirloom borretana onions and balsamic vinegar, eggplant parmigiana, risotto alla milanese (with saffron),

pappa al pomodoro (bread and tomato soup), steak with artichokes, eggplant and radicchio, chicken with potatoes and rosemary, ossoJ]KW 8ZW[KQ]\\W LQ 8IZUI \Z]NÆM[ and a wide range of pasta dishes are available, as are international classics, such as French foie gras with pan brioche, or Peruvian veal cheek with star anise and potatoes, or raw oysters and grilled scallops. The restaurant is open from 8 a.m. until midnight. The aim is to join 150 years of Italian and English traditions, since the Savini brand dates back to 1867, when it opened in Milano’s Galleria. The Criterion bar is back in action, serving drinks from aperitif time to afterdinner nightcaps.

9 APRIL 2016

Phaidon has published excellent and imposing works in the past, such as the six-volume Modernist Cuisine, or the guide to chefs’ favorite restaurants, Where Chefs Eat. Now editor Daniel Young, New York critic transplanted to London, has curated an encyclopedic guide for those moments, no matter where in the world you are, when the yen for authentic pizza is overwhelming. In this meticulous work, Where to Eat Pizza, over 1,000 food experts from around the world have contributed their advice. The 576-page book includes city maps and reviews of more than 1,700 pizzerias. Chefs, critics, and trade professionals participated enthusiastically in the preparation of this pizza Bible, available in April, 2016. The guide ignores ratings, but just aims to be a substantial list of []OOM[\QWV[ NWZ ÅVLQVO I OWWL XQbbI outside Naples (which also appears, with many addresses noted), from the Americas to Asia to northern Europe. The volume is a celebration of the global success of an Italian food that today is a part of everyone’s life.

GAMBERO ROSSO ON THE ROAD

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

GAMBERO ROSSO LANDS IN DUBAI DUBAI

An exclusive selection of Top Italian Wines showcased in Dubai during a unique Italian NIght

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ITALY COUNTRY GUEST OF HONOR AT VINEXPO HONG KONG An exclusive selection of Top Italian Wines and Spirits showcased in Hong Kong for 3 days of celebrating great flavors: tastings, seminars and inimitable aperitivi /IUJMZW :W[[W _QTT \ISM XIZ\ QV >QVM`XW 0WVO 3WVO 1\ITa _QTT JM \PM +W]V\Za /]M[\ WN 0WVWZ I\ \PM [M^MV\P MLQ\QWV WN >QVM`XW 0WVO 3WVO PMTL NZWU 5Ia /IUJMZW :W[[W _I[ QV^Q\ML Ja \PM >QV-`XW KWUUQ[[QWV I[ M`KT][Q^M XIZ\VMZ \W ZMXZM[MV\ 1\ITa¼[ M`KMTTMV\ XZWL]K\[ L]ZQVO \PM M^MV\¼[ \PZMM LIa KMTMJZI\QWV[ IV W]\[\IVLQVO 1\ITQIV .ZMVKP KWTTIJWZI\QWV 0MZM¼[ \PM XZWOZIU 7V 5Ia NZWU " IU \W " XU I ?ITSIZW]VL <I[\QVO QV \PM [XMK\IK]TIZ /ZIVL .WaMZ WN \PM 0WVO 3WVO +WV^MV\QWV +MV\ZM W^MZTWWSQVO >QK\WZQI 0IZJW]Z /IUJMZW :W[[W _QTT XZM[MV\ I [MTMK\QWV WN <WX 1\ITQIV ?QVMZQM[ \PI\ IKPQM^ML \PM PQOPM[\ ZI\QVO[ QV \PM MLQ\QWV QV \PM JM[\[MTTQVO >QVQ L¼1\ITQI _QVM O]QLM <_W P]VLZML _QVM[ _QTT ZMXZM[MV\ \PM QVM`PI][\QJTM ^QVMaIZL XI\ZQUWVa IVL K]T\]ZM WN \PM KW]V\Za 5WZMW^MZ I [XMKQIT [MK\QWV _QTT JM ZM[MZ^ML NWZ I KIZMN]T KPWQKM WN 1\ITQIV <WX ;XQZQ\[ I [MK\WZ QV KWV\QV]W][ LM^MTWXUMV\ IVL OZW_\P 1V \PM TI\M IN\MZVWWV WN \PM [IUM LIa \PM 1\ITQIV KMTMJZI\QWV _QTT [PQN\ OMIZ IVL KPIVOM I\UW[XPMZM <PM 1\ITQIV KMTMJZI\QWV _QTT [PQN\ OMIZ IVL KPIVOM I\UW[XPMZM <PM *TMVL IV IU][QVO PWUIOM \W \PM XTMI[]ZM[ WN \PM )XMZQ\Q^W 1\ITQIVW _QTT IT[W \ISM XTIKM QV \PM /ZIVL .WaMZ WNNMZQVO M`PQJQ\WZ[ IVL O]M[\[ \PM XTMI[]ZM WN I ZQ\]IT \PI\ [\IZ\ML QV <WZQVW¼[ KINu[ J]\ Q[ JMKWUQVO UWZM IVL UWZM XWX]TIZ M^MV W]\[QLM 1\ITQIV UIRWZ KQ\QM[ <PM JM[\ TIJMT[ WN \ZILQ\QWVIT 1\ITQIV TQY]WZ[ _QTT JM WV PIVL ZIVOQVO NZWU ^MZUW]\P \W OQV IVL QVKT]LQVO U]KP U]KP UWZM 1\ITa¼[ UW[\ \ITMV\ML JIZ\MVLMZ[ _QTT \ISM KMV\MZ [\IOM TML Ja :WUIV UIM[\ZW 5I[[QUW L¼)LLMbQW \PM UW[\ W]\OWQVO IVL MV\MZ\IQVQVO IUWVO \PM KW]V\Za¼[ JIZ\MVLMZ[ 5IZKW ;IJMTTQKW K]ZI\WZ WN \PM >QVQ L¼1\ITQI O]QLM IVL _Q\VM[[ \W I OTWZQW][ XI[\ QV \PM _WZTL WN UQ`WTWOa _QTT JM I\ PQ[ [QLM

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ITALIAN CHEFS ABROAD

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

Saitta’s Story IT BEGAN IN A BASEMENT dusseldorf From a small Sicilian town, Partinico, to Düsseldorf. Giuseppe Saitta’s story is not only about a geographic leap, but also about two completely different worlds that meet. On March !0, 2016, Palermo and Düsseldorf were declared ‘twin cities’. Behind that agreement, is our protagonist. Step by step he created a miniature empire. Today Saitta, who is also a municipal councilor in Düsseldorf, owns four restaurants. <PM ÅZ[\ _I[ 7[\MZQI ;IQ\\I \PMV KIUM 8QIbbI ;IQ\\I IVL ÅVITTa \_W new locations in 2015, Va Veloce 1 and Va Veloce 2. Quality is high and when the city hosts fairs and conference, many traveling Italians make sure they eat at Giuseppe’s. His customers, Italian and not, linger long into the night uncorking great bottles and enjoying reliable, high-quality food, free of any special effects.

Giuseppe, what brought you to Germany? My father came to Germany in 1965, to work at the Mannesmann ÅZU <PMa UILM UM\IT \]JQVO 1N you remember, in 1968 there was a bad earthquake in Sicily. My father came home to get us and the whole family joined him in Germany. ?MZM \PMZM XZWJTMU[ I\ ÅZ[\' Certainly, language was an obstacle at the beginning. I overcame it playing soccer. That was my way of integrating. I played well, and I quickly became one of them. How did you get interested in food? Papà had an accident and couldn’t work in the factory anymore. So suddenly, he had to invent a new job. In front of our house there was a tiny grocery store. We took it over 12 JANUARY 2016

with the bit of savings we had. That was 1975, and it was little more than a basement. We began to sell Italian products. You have no idea the reactions of our customers when they saw us cooking for ourselves during lunch hour. Those aromas must have seemed exotic to them. They stopped by to see what we were eating. That’s how we started our tavola calda, a prepared-foods, take-out place, in 1982. And after the tavola calda? We got bigger slowly. We opened \PM ÅZ[\ ZM[\I]ZIV\ 7[\MZQI ;IQ\\I in 1990. The idea was to reproduce our home-cooking, the recipes we made for ourselves: pasta with tomato sauce, lasagna, eggplant. In 1997 we added Piazza Saitta (Barbarossaplatz), and last year we opened Via Veloce 1 and 2. The idea of these last ones was cookQVO []Q\ML NWZ T]VKP PW]Z ÆM`QJTM and fast. Germans have less time to eat compared to Italians, so we cook simple recipes, to order. In the evening, the places become regular restaurants. The formula is the same as before, with a food counter where you can buy good cheese, cured meats, a bottle of wine. We are a wine bar, restaurant and delicatessen all in one.

Is this an Italian wine moment? By chance we found ourselves working also as distributors in order to satisfy our own demand but also \W [PW_ WNN VM_ XZWL]K\[ )UWVO the most successful was the explosion of Venica&Venica wines, and those from southern Italy, above ITT 6MZW L¼)^WTI <PMV \PMZM¼[ \PM Lugana phenomenon. We sell rivers of it – inexplicable. Pinot Grigio had a moment, then Chardonnay, VW_ 4]OIVI )[ QN \PMZM _MZM VW tomorrow. How big is the Italian community in Düsseldorf? Once, we were the second or third largest group in Düsseldorf. Now, many have gone back to Italy. Today there are about 7,000 of us, and about 700 Italian restaurants! Many have become citizens, and we’re talking about third-generation Italians. Even I speak German to my daughters at home. All in all, how is life in Düsseldorf? What do you miss? We live divinely well. It’s a safe

What do the Germans like most about Italian cucina? We made a name for ourselves for W]Z \Z]NÆM[ ZMKQXM[ M^MV QN _M¼ZM not exactly from Piedmont. We work with all types, ranging from M`Y]Q[Q\M _PQ\M \Z]NÆM[ NZWU )TJI to black ones, to more affordable summer varieties. We realized that baked pasta casseroles aren’t popular, but cooked to order, quality dishes, are. In Düsseldorf, the level of restaurant offerings is very high, and the public is demanding.

13 JANUARY 2016

city. If you love sports, there are many opportunities. I love the jogging paths that cross the old city, the bridge, the views of the Rhine. There’s a rich cultural life with opera, theater, six museums. People here love Italy. Perhaps they even neglect their own traditions to dedicate themselves to ours. They invite me to dinner and cook pasta with sauce that cooked for 10 hours, like my grandmother made. What do I miss? I’ll be trite, but that’s how it is. Light, sea, sun.

WINE OF THE MONTH

Cesanese di Olevano Romano Sup. Silene ’14 Damiano Ciolli 20,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 7.00 euros

Lazio’s safe bet

Where there’s tomato, pecorino and guanKQITM aW]¼TT ÅVL ;QTMVM <PM VI\]ZIT M`\MVsion of Amatriciana, one of those dishes constantly on the minds and tables of Romans, is Cesanese di Olevano Romano made by ,IUQIVW +QWTTQ 1\¼[ VW IKKQLMV\ \PI\ \PM JM[\ trattorias in Rome often have this wonderN]TTa XTMI[IV\ _QVM QV \PMQZ KMTTIZ 7VM ZMI[WV is its friendly price, another is the quality of the wine, and a third is its innate capacity \W MVPIVKM \aXQKIT ÆI^WZ[ WN :WUM¼[ ZMOQWV 4IbQW <PM ^MZ[QWV I ^QV\IOM aMIZ \PI\ _I[ \ZMIKPMZW][ ITT W^MZ 1\ITa JMKI][M WN M`KM[[ ZIQV Q[ QV\ZQO]QVO IVL U]T\Q NIKM\ML 1V ZMKMV\ aMIZ[ ,IUQIVW +QWTTQ PI[ ZMÅVML \PM IZWUI\QK XZWÅTM WN \PQ[ _QVM IVL Q\ PI[ OIQVML QV MVMZOa IVL QVKQ[Q^MVM[[ <PM ;QTMVM PI[ I []J\TM IVL [WXPQ[\QKI\ML IZWUI\QK VW[M _Q\P KTMIZ IZWUI[ WN ZW[M[ IVL IVQ[M <PM XITI\M Q[ R]QKa MNNMK\Q^M IVL UW]\P ÅTTQVO _Q\P IV QV\ZQO]QVO XZWÅTM WN JIT[IUQK PMZJ[ <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ ITZMILa _MTT ZM[WT^ML IVL TQOP\ _Q\P XZWTWVOML []NN][ML ÆI^WZ <PQ[ Q[ I TW^MTa JW\\TM \PI\ JZWILMV[ \PM QUage of Lazio’s wines, which at times are too anchored to a search for concentration, too aimed at making deep and richly shaded laJMT[ ,IUQIVW KIV LZI_ WV Å^M PMK\IZM[ WN vineyard, farmed without synthetic products, TWKI\ML UM\MZ[ IJW^M [MI TM^MT WV ZML ^WTKIVQK [WQT" WVTa +M[IVM[M L¼)NÅTM OZIXM[ VW\ UIVa JW\\TM[ KIZMN]TTa UILM 1\¼[ I _QVM \PI\ _QTT [I\Q[Na JMTTa PMIZ\ IVL UQVL <Za Q\ J]\ LWV¼\ NWZOM\ \PM )UI\ZQKQIVI 14 APRIL 2016

TWITTER dixit Jon Thorsen

Quartz

The horror!!!

Italy wants kids in primary schools to spend one hour a week studying the country’s “wine culture and history.”

Dance Sing Wine

“One of the disadvantages of wine is that it makes a man mistake words for thoughts”. Samuel Johnson

Jamie Goode

JF Tobias

Prowein reminded me of the size and scope of the world of wine. It’s huge. It reinforced this: we must remain humble in the face of wine

Is France more likely to see even more great vintages because of climate change? But will it last?

American Housewife

Ken @ alawine

Yes, instead of deep-cleaning your home for company, you may serve really good wine and just dim the lights.

<PM JMVMÅ\[ WN _QVM

15 APRIL 2016

DESIGN

Stefania Annese collaborated

CORKSCREWS

“T

he soft extractive note of an aged cork being withdrawn has the true sound of a man opening his heart,” wrote 18th century scholar and cleric William S. Benwell. In his short life (1765-1796) he was able to capture the poetry inherent in the opening of a precious bottle of wine. Paolo Annoni, a pharmacist and corkscrew-collector, also sees beauty in the ritual and its tools. He exhibits about 500 of his best in the museum on Piazza Castello in Barolo. <PM ÅZ[\ XI\MV\ML KWZS[KZM_ LI\M[ JIKS \W ! IVL -VOlish inventor Samuel Henshall. He, like many of his countrymen, loved the corked glass wine bottles arriving from France, Italy and Portugal but had trouble opening them. The most common tools were crude instruments — “steel worms” — that were variations on musket barrel cleaning tools (gun worms) manufactured by gunsmiths. They had been in use since the middle of the 17 th century.

ALESSANDRIO M. 16 APRIL 2016

SPIRAL

Today, corkscrews are still indispensable accessories for wine lovers. Although other nationalities are inclined to look for technological masterpieces to open their bottles, Italians prefer instruments curated in design and classic in their form, corkscrews that preserve the magic of the lyrical moment of extraction. Giuseppe Todeschini made Spiral for Artis Tecnologia e Design based in Thiene (Vicenza), a company specialized in the production of wine accessories. This corkscrew is made with material derived from aeronautical engineering, and is particularly light, fast and easy to use. A Todeschini corkscrew is in the permanent exhibition of MOMA in New York, and this new one joins what is by now a vast range of similar objects made with premium materials. His Crick is made to force the spiral to insert itself in the center of the cork without fail. It has only one handle and an original mechanism that allows even one-handed extraction. <PM 5WZM\\W ÅZU Q[ IT[W TWKI\ML VMIZ <PQMVM 1\[ KWZS[KZM_[ are housed in handy aluminum cases. An external structure in lively colors protects the stainless steel ‘worm’, the screw itself. Another memorable series is Bar&Wine by Alessi, the leading Italian brand of housewares of all sorts, featuring designs by the greatest names in contemporary artistic production for the home. Alessandro Mendini, architect, artist, designer, theoretician and Milanese journalist, works in an unmistakable style. His Anna G., a bottle opener in thermoplastic resin, _I[ ÅZ[\ UIV]NIK\]ZML QV !! IVL has undergone multiple changes over the decades. This version is an ironic homage to a real woman with a smiling face, and it has become an iconic object on Italian tables. Alessandro M., the masculine answer to the success of Anna G., was the outcome of Mendini’s study of form and function. Another charming Mendini design, Parrot, combines humor and practicality.

PARROT

CRICK

INFO: www.artisitaly.it www.morettoitalia.it www.alessi.com ANNA G. 17 LIMITED EDITION ANNA G.

APRIL 2016

DO AS LAZIA

PAIRING

drawings by Chiara Buosi

Polpette di bollito

boiled beef meatballs

BELLONE BIANCO

Tiella col polpo savory octopus pie

FRASCATI SUP.

Carciofi alla romana artichokes alla romana

MINERAL WATER 18 APRIL 2016

THE ALI DO Rigatoni con la coda

rigatoni with oxtail sauce

CESANESE DEL PIGLIO

Costolette di abbacchio alla scottadito baby lamb chops

NERO BUONO DI CORI

Crostata ricotta e visciole

ricotta and sour cherry tart

19 APRIL 2016

MOSCATO DI TERRACINA PASSITO

THE EVENT

The third edition of “Anteprima Fiere” (Fair Preview), the Gambero Rosso event that tours Italy’s best wine shops with the country’s wineries, both new and well-established, is over. Top starring roles were played by not-yet-released recent vintages. On the following pages, you can read our tasting notes. Save them and check them out during the months to come.

EN PRIMEUR TASTINGS 21 MARZO 2016

THE EVENT/THE WINERIES

The Wineries PIEDMONT

Cantina Clavesana fraz. Madonna della Neve, 19 | Clavesana (CN) | tel. 0173790451 | www.inclavesana.it

Bricco Maiolica Bel Colle

fraz. Castagni, 56 | Verduno (CN) | tel. 0172470196 | www.belcolle.it The Bel Colle vineyards are mostly located in the zones of Verduno and La Morra, with some planted around Asti, Roero and Barbaresco. <PM ÅZU QVQ\QITTa SVW_V NWZ its production of Pelaverga, \WLIa Q[ UISQVO I VIUM NWZ its nebbiolo-based wines. The Inspiration is traditional, but they are also experimenting with more modern solutions. VERDUNO PELAVERGA ’15 Clean and airy fragrances: JTIKS XMXXMZ IVL ZW[M[ QUmediate ripe red fruit. Soft tannin, pulpy, enjoyable fruit. BAROLO MONVIGLIERO ’11 Balsamic and alcohol-preserved red fruit sensations. Great character and mouthÅTTQVO [\Z]K\]ZM

fraz. Ricca | via Bolangino, 7 | Diano d’Alba (CN) | tel. 0173612049 | www.briccomaiolica.it

In 1959, 32 members signed an agreement to found the Clavesana cooperative, one of the largest for the produc\QWV WN ,WTKM\\W LQ ,WOTQIVQ Anna Bracco (director) and Giovanni Bracco (president) head the winery. This is the Langhe, where today over 2,000 families of grapegrowers have found a vital uniNaQVO ÅMTL QV +TI^M[IVI 1V Alta Langa, dolcetto is third in importance, and this cooperative turns out to be one of the most competent in its production. DOGLIANI SUP. IL CLOU ’13 /MVMZW][ IZWUI[ WN JTIKS fruit, consistent tannins and good length. DOGLIANI SUP. ALLA GIORNATA 587 ’12 Complex fruitiness, with in\MV[M R]QKa \WVM[ WN JTIKSJMZZQM[ IVL JTIKS K]ZZIV\[

Beppe Accomo has been _WZSQVO WV PQ[ JMI]\QN]T M[tate for thirty years. In this time, he has left behind other crops and concentrated every\PQVO WV ^Q\QK]T\]ZM 2][\QÅIJTa _MTT SVW_V NWZ Q\[ ,WTKM\\W LQ ,QIVW L¼)TJI \PM _QVMZa IT[W offers numerous other labels. BARBERA D’ALBA SUP. VIGNA VIGIA ’13 1V\MV[M VW\M[ WN JTIKS NZ]Q\ and toast, with a spicy element that is in the process of being integrated. NEBBIOLO D’ALBA SUP. CUMOT ’13 ) _MTT IZ\QK]TI\ML IVL ÅVM WTNIK\WZa XZWÅTM <IVVQK _MI^M is dense but of praiseworthy extraction.

22 APRIL 2016

Cantina Sociale di Vinchio Vaglio Serra reg. San Pancrazio, 1 | Vinchio (AT) | tel. 0141950903 | www.vinchio.com

The long-established cooperative winery, Vinchio Vaglio Serra, today has almost 200 members. It is still one of the most important winegrowers in the Asti zone and even in all of Piedmont. Most of its UMUJMZ[¼ ^QVMaIZL[ QV _PQKP many vines are more than 60 years old, are along the hills of the Alto Monferrato. The soil is mostly calcareous and sandy. Production is generous IVL LQ^MZ[QÅML J]\ [\Ia[ KMVtered on Barbera. BARBERA D’ASTI VIGNE VECCHIE 50 ’13 Fruity, admirable complexity and acidic support. BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. I TRE VESCOVI ’13 Powerful, with aromas of \WJIKKW IVL JTIKS NZ]Q\ RIU An unusual savory note on \PM ÅVQ[P

LOMBARDY

Ceste Franco di Ceste Pier Guido

Mauro Sebaste

K [W )TÅMZQ d Govone (CN) | tel. 017358635 | www.cestevini.com

fraz. Gallo d’Alba | via Garibaldi, 222bis | Alba (CN) | tel. 0173262148 | www.maurosebaste.it

Guido Ceste is helped in his NIUQTa¼[ _QVMOZW_QVO J][Qness by his son Franco, who completed his studies at the Istituto Professionale in Alessandria (Piedmont). Ceste began to intensify vineyard _WZS QV \PM ! [ 0M JW]OP\ land and planted new vineyards to offer a broader and better choice of wines. Since the 1990s, the winery is also XZM[MV\ QV NWZMQOV UIZSM\[ with numerous labels from the principal denominations of the Langhe. BARBERA D’ALBA SUP. ’13 Fresh fruit, notes of sweet spices and tobacco sensations. Good balance and length. LANGHE PINOT NERO CAMPO ALLE FRATE ’14 Marasca cherries and aromatic herb aromas. Soft palate with evident notes of ripe fruit and sweet spices.

0Q[ UW\PMZ ;aTTI _I[ I dominant and unforgettable presence among the 4IVOPM¼[ XZWL]KMZ[ 5I]ZW Sebaste has built up his own winery in which he uses grapes of his own and from trusted, long-established OZW_MZ[ 0M PI[ VIUML I Freisa wine for his mother. 5I]ZW¼[ W_V NIUM LMZQ^M[ above all from his Barolo selections, constantly distinguished by elegant classicism. NEBBIOLO D’ALBA PARIGI ’13 Fine sensations of violets and licorice. Intense spicy notes are perfected with bottle-aging. ROERO ARNEIS ’15 Citrus fruit and new-mown grass notes: pleasant, linear freshness. An immediately pleasurable white.

Vite Colte

via Bergesia, 6 | Barolo (CN) | tel. 0173564611 | www.vitecolte.it Vite Colte (Cultivated Vines) is the new name chosen by the Terre da Vino winery to present its new production philosophy to \PM _WZTL 1\ LWM[V¼\ KPIVOM much for us since these labels are ones we have been tasting for years, but for Piero Quadrumolo and PQ[ \MIU Q\¼[ I [QOVQÅKI\ change. Vite Colte is the tip of the group (180 winegrowers cultivate about 300 hectares, including the best in the individual zones) that will enter the regime which has as its goal an absolute search for quality. BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. LA LUNA E I FALÒ ’13 Explosive fruit on a palate that is both fresh and velvety BAROLO PAESI TUOI ’11 Clean aromas of raspberry and licorice. Rich, powerful, but never heavy.

23 APRIL 2016

Cantina Conte Vistarino

fraz. Scorzoletta, 82/84 | Pietra de’ Giorgi (PV) | tel. 038585117 | www.contevistarino.it ,]ZQVO \PM [MKWVL PITN WN \PM 19th century, Counts Vistarino and Gancia decided to plant French clones of pinot nero, having chosen the Scuropasso valley as ideal for the production of Metodo Clas[QKW [X]UIV\M <PM _WZS of these great Piedmontese houses carried on. Today the ÅZU _Q\P \PM NWZKM WN I OZMI\ family estate (828 hectares, of which 200 are vineyard), and under the leadership of the young Ottavia, aims decidMLTa PQOP \W XZW^M Q\[ LMÅVQtive place. RÏES ’13 Peach and bay leaf, pleasIV\ IZWUI[ WN _PQ\M ÆW_MZ[ The palate is supported by a fresh acidic vein and intense minerality. A long and multiNIKM\ML ÅVQ[P RÏES ’14 ,MTQKI\M JW]Y]M\ WN _PQ\M ÆW_MZ[ KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL OQVOMZ 0MZJIKMW][ \WVM[ IZM sustained by a good acidic JIKSJWVM IVL I [I^WZa ÅVQ[P 1\ TIKS[ \PM MVMZOa \W IOM for decades, but is already very focused.

THE EVENT/THE WINERIES

ALTO ADIGE

TUSCANY

F.lli Giorgi

loc. Caccia al Piano, 280 | Bolgheri (LI) | tel. 0565766936 | www.campo allasughera.com

Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco

Camigliano

As you ascend Valle Isarco, viticulture becomes rarer, the vineyards are smaller, steeper and terraced. In this context, Cantina Produttori >ITTM 1[IZKW ÅVL[ Q\[ _Ia 1\ is the smallest cooperative winery in the province, but the commitment and passion of its 130 members, ITT _WZSQVO QV \PM ^ITTMa Q[ OZMI\ <PWUI[ ,WZNUIVV \PM KWWXMZI\Q^M¼[ SMTTMZUMQ[ter, supervises the entire production process. A. A. VALLE ISARCO SYLVANER ARISTOS ’14 Nose ranges from white fruit to mountain herbs. Savory, austere palate, enlivened by UIZSML IKQLQ\a A. A. VALLE ISARCO KERNER ARISTOS ’14 Fine and elegant, with aromatic herbs and citrus fruit on the nose. Full, long and wonderfully fresh.

Located on the western edge of the vast territory of Montalcino, Camigliano is a hamlet with an ancient history, set in the low green growth of pristine nature and enjoying a beautiful view of the Alta Maremma and the Colline Metallifere. The Ghezzi famQTa \WWS Q\ W^MZ I\ \PM MVL WN the 1950s, and cultivate about 100 hectares of vineyard. ROSSO DI MONTALCINO ’14 The personality of the vintage is evident: delicately herbaceous notes of underbrush and red berries. A slim body, _Q\P \PM ÅVQ[P VW\ KWUXTM\MTa resolved. BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ’11 Warm and ripe fruit fragrances. Agile palate with focused NZ]Q\ ZQXM IVL UW]\P ÅTTQVO )TZMILa NIQZTa ZMILa \W LZQVS

loc. Camigliano | via d’Ingresso, 2 | Montalcino (SI) | tel. 0577844068 | www.camigliano.it

via Coste, 50 | Chiusa/Klausen (BZ) | tel.0472847553 | www.cantinavalleisarco.it

Sede Legale e Operativa: Via di Seano, 89/A 51030 Catena - Quarrata (PT) Tel. 0573 744436/740059 - Fax 0573 740610

Founded at the end of the 1990s by the Knauf group, the winery has a certain historic importance, given the extreme youth of its territory. Campo alla Sughera has about 20 hectares of specialized vineyard, in which the varieties are mainly cabernet sauvignon and franc, merlot, petit verdot (for the reds); vermentino, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay (for the whites). BOLGHERI SUP. ARNIONE ’10 Cabernet sauvignon with small percentages of cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot, it is a red with a generous, complex bouquet. The body is harmonious and well-balanced. BOLGHERI ROSSO ADEO ’12 Iodine notes on the nose, along with interesting spicy tones. Light-hearted, long and MI[a \W LZQVS

BOZZA DI STAMPA Cortesemente controllare con cura, controfirmare e inviare via mail/fax per accettazione. Grazie

FORMATO:100x100,5mm

C A B

270mm MAX DIAM. ROT. ESTERNO: __________

B) ANIMA INTERNA DEL ROTOLO: 2011

108mm C) LARGHEZZA MAX SUPPORTO: __________ ROTOLI DA: _______________________PZ

S E N S O

D I

S E N S O

D I

S E N S O

S T A M P A

8 ABC

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S T A M P A

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SVOLGIMENTO

ABC

D I

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SENSO

ABC

The winery, led by Antonio Giorgi and by his exuberant [WV .IJQIVW PI[ IT_Ia[ SMX\ up with the times, managing to permit its two souls to coexist: one is more commerKQIT \PW]OP _Q\P I LQOVQÅML qualitative level symbolized by Pinot Frizzante. The other aims higher, and the best grapes are used to obtain premium products, especially Metodo Classico labels. BRUT CL. TOP ZERO This pinot nero monovarietal spends 80 months on its lees. Its powerful nose offers tones of raspberries and candied citrus fruit, then a resinous note. The mousse is caressing, the palate dense and reactive, [I^WZa IVL \I[\a <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ I ZMUIZSIJTM KZM[KMVLW WN ÆI^WZ OP PINOT NERO BRUT 1870 ’11 Complex and varied aromas WN ÆWZIT VW\M[ KWNNMM IVL medicinal herbs. Mineral and juicy on the palate.

Campo alla Sughera

ABC

fraz. Camponoce, 39a | Canneto Pavese (PV) | tel. 0385262151 | www.giorgi-wines.it

S T A M P A

D I

S T A M P A

APRIL 2016 COLORI A CAMPIONE

VISTO SI STAMPI CAMIGLIANO

DATA:

Maria Caterina Dei

Giannoni Fabbri

Podere La Regola

Poggio Trevvalle

A great passion for viticul\]ZM TML )TQJZIVLW ,MQ \W J]a land in the Montepulciano territory and plant vineyards. <PM ÅZ[\ JW\\TM _I[ XZWL]KML in 1985 and the process was completed in 1989 with the WXMVQVO WN \PM VM_ _QVMUISing facilities. At the beginning of the 1990s, Maria Caterina ,MQ IN\MZ I KIZMMZ QV [QVOQVO and acting, decided to move to Montepulciano, where she [SQTTN]TTa W^MZ[MM[ \PM _WZS begun by her grandfather. NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO ’12 Aromas of plum intertwine with vegetal notes of aromatic herbs. Pulpy and substantial on the palate, with a KZM[KMVLW WV \PM ÅVQ[P NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO ’13 Eucalyptus, mint, gentian and blueberries. Juicy and XTMI[IV\ _Q\P I OWWL ÆI^WZ crescendo.

The winery of Marco Giannoni, president of the Cortona consortium, carries on a family tradition begun in the 18th century. Since he \WWS W^MZ QV !! PM PI[ seen to a complete overhaul of the vineyards and a renW^I\QWV WN \PM _QVMUISQVO NIKQTQ\QM[ <PM _WZS QV \PM ÅMTL NZWU XZ]VQVO \W PIZvest, is exclusively done by hand, because only human M`XMZQMVKM KIV SVW_ _PMV to intervene on the plant. CORTONA SYRAH AMATO ’12 )T\MZVI\QVO JTIKS IVL ZML berries on the nose. Solid JWLa IVL [I^WZa ÅVQ[P CORTONA VIN SANTO ’06 Complex nose, with notes of toast, vanilla, assorted spices and dried fruit. Velvety entrance on the palate, broad, dense and wonderfully generous.

The Nuti family owns this winery, which rises where an Etruscan village was once located, a site chosen for its fertility and climate. It was suitable NWZ OZW_QVO ^QVM[ IVL UISing wine, as witnessed by the numerous antique amphorae found in the zone. Luca Nuti, after studying agriculture, promoted the development of the family estate, which already _I[ UISQVO _QVM NWZ PWUM ][M 0Q[ JZW\PMZ .TI^QW I TI_aMZ \WWS W^MZ \PM KWUUMZKQIT and promotional sector. SPUMANTE BRUT M. CL. Gros manseng, with a little chardonnay: citrus fruit tones, a slight vegetal note, linear and fresh. LA REGOLA ’11 Cabernet franc with some merlot and petit verdot; bal[IUQK IVL JTIKS JMZZa VW\M[# crisp tannins and a tasty acidic ^MQV ,aVIUQK IVL [I^WZa

Bernardo and Umberto Valle chose the Maremma to express their passion for wine at the end of the 1990s. They immediately practiced organic agriculture, convinced of the correctness of the method to obtain excellent results. Most of the vineyards are dedicated to sangiovese, but some are also planted with international varieties. MORELLINO DI SCANSANO PASSERA ’14 Lively notes of cherries and JTIKSJMZZQM[ ITWVO _Q\P NWZM[\ ÆWWZ .ZM[P IVL \Z]Ta pleasurable. MORELLINO DI SCANSANO PASSERA ’15 Full and naturally sweet with fruit, currants, cherry, and a slight peppery note. The palate is already pleasant, Excellent acidic contrast, easy-toLZQVS

via di Martiena, 35 | Montepulciano (SI) | tel. 0578716878 | www.cantinedei.com

loc. San Marco in Villa, 2 | Cortona (AR) | tel. 3475883939 | www.giannonifabbri.it

loc. San Martino | Riparbella (PI) | tel. 0586698145 | www.laregola.com

25 APRIL 2016

loc. Arcille | Campagnatico (GR) | tel. 0564998142 | www.poggiotrevvalle.it

THE EVENT/THE WINERIES

LAZIO

MARCHE

San Gervasio

loc. San Gervasio | via Palaiese | Palaia (PI) | tel. 0587483360 | www.sangervasio.com Luca Tommasini carried out a complete transformation of the family estate, starting in the mid-1990s. What had been a classic grapegrowing property was converted to high-quality production. ,]ZQVO \PW[M aMIZ[ PM ZMJ]QT\ \PM WTL _QVMUISQVO NIKQTQ\QM[ bought new hectares of land and planted avant-garde vineyards, regrafting old vines and ]VLMZ\ISQVO I KWUXTM\M ZM^Wlution of the winery. A SIRIO ’09 Blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. Excellent structure, aromas of red berZQM[ .]TT IVL MV^MTWXQVO ÆIvor. A SIRIO ’10 Ripe cherry, blond tobacco and earthy notes. Evolved proÅTM J]\ OWWL IKQLQ\a O]QLM[ \PM palate. Tannin still evident.

Omina Romana

via Fontana Parata, 75 | Velletri (RM) | tel. 0696430193 | www.ominaromana.com

Casale del Giglio

loc. Le Ferriere | s.da Cisterna-Nettuno km 13 | Latina | tel. 0692902530 | www.casaledelgiglio.it

In 2004, German entrepreneur Anton F. Borner decided to invest in an 80-hectare estate in VelTM\ZQ QV \PM )TJIV 0QTT[ IJW]\ SQTWUM\MZ[ NZWU Rome. Claudio Gori and agronomist Paula Pacheco _WZS \aXM[ WN QVLQOMnous and international red grapes, along with seven varieties of white grapes, turning out a series of good quality wines. BELLONE BRUT ’13 Monovarietal bellone; yellow peach and bread crust. Fragrant, fresh palate. DIANA MEMORENSIS I ’12 Bordeaux blend, with bell pepper and dried spices on the nose. Clean, fresh palate where soft tannins confer character.

The purchase of a longestablished winery on the island of Ponza to vinify biancolella from the surrounding vineyards, along with decades-old vineyards of bellone in the best zones of Anzio confirmed the new interest of Antonio Santarelli and enologist Paolo Tiefenthaler in indigenous varieties. Their results are excellent. TEMPRANIJO ’14 Red with concentrated aromas of cherries and plum. Powerful and extracted. ANTINOO ’14 Blend of viognier and chardonnay offering notes of yellow fruit and sweet KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ /WWL ÆI^WZ development, pleasant ÅVQ[P WN IVQ[M IVL elderberry.

201 2

26 APRIL 2016

Santa Barbara

b.go Mazzini, 35 | Barbara (AN) | tel. 0719674249 | www.vini santabarbara.it Stefano Antonucci always PI[ []ZXZQ[M[ NWZ ][ 0Q[ LMcade of experience, his abilQ\a \W KIX\]ZM \PM UIZSM\¼[ mood, and his untiring commercial dynamism are powerful weapons on the communication front, where his [SQTT[ [PQVM 7^MZ \PM aMIZ[ he has managed to release a range of wines that include the principal regional denominations and all their possible typologies. VERDICCHIO STEFANO ANTONUCCI CL SUP. ’14 Up-front citrus fruit, fresh notes of anise, compact, intense, savory character and great elegance. Compared to other editions, it is already very expressive, with a slimmer and more reactive body. ROSSO PICENO IL MASCHIO DA MONTE ’13 Montepulciano; compact, fragrant fruit with I XTMI[IV\ [XQKa ÅVQ[P []J[\IV\QIT IVL ÆI^WZN]T

MOLISE

CAMPANIA

Tenimenti Grieco Claudio Cipressi

c.da Montagna, 5b | San Felice del Molise (CB) | tel. 0874874535 | www.cantinecipressi.it A winery that has focused on rediscovering tintilia, the historic indigenous red of the Molise region, manages its land with artisanal [SQTT IVL UWLMZV XZMKQ[QWV Sixteen hectares of organic vineyard produce the excellent raw material that Claudio Cipressi interprets in a personal style that is also respectful of tradition. MOLISE TINTILIA MACCHIAROSSA ’11 Balsamic and spicy notes on the nose; a palate that is surXZQ[QVO NWZ Q\[ [QTSa IVL LMTQcate tannins. MOLISE TINTILIA ROSATO COLLEQUINTO ’15 Rose, violets, then currants and a light sensation of iron on the nose. In the UW]\P Q\ Q[ ÆWZIT R]QKa IVL enlivened by a tannic counterpoint that lends character and contrast. A charming rosé.

Tenuta Cavalier Pepe

c.da Difensola | Portocannone (CB) | tel. 0875590032 | www.tenimentigrieco.it

Sanpaolo Magistravini di Claudio Quarta

c.da San Paolo | Torrioni (AV) | tel. 0832704398 | www.magistravini.it

A winery that has a reputation for very carefully made and interesting wines. Larino is in the heart of the Molisano hills, facing the Adriatic Sea. Grieco LWM[V¼\ WVTa UISM _QVM J]\ also has an agriturismo and a teaching farm, attracting cultural tourism that is helpful for the territory. A committed and passionate NIUQTa _WZS[ \PQ[ MV\MZXZQ[M IVL UISM[ M`KMTTMV\ ^MZsions of tintilia-based wine, the indigenous variety of Molise. MOLISE TINTILIA ’14 Ripe fruit on the nose, good freshness and energy on the palate. MOLISE TINTILIA 200 METRI ’15 Nose still developing; the palate has a savory start and progresses calmly.

Claudio Quarta and his daughter Alessandra run one of the most dynamic and interesting wine businesses in southern Italy. Of their three wineries, two are in Puglia, in Salento, and one is in Irpinia in Atripalda, half way between Tufo and the village of Torrioni. Their constant research is admirable, aiming to improve all aspects of sustainability, experimenting by means of collaborations with universities and avantgarde studies of biodiversity. GRECO DI TUFO CLAUDIO QUARTA ’13 Peach, citron and grapefruit plus tones of medicinal herbs. Excellent savory depth. PRIMITIVO ORO DI EMÉRA ’12 Rich, generous fruity fragrances of pomegranate and red plum. Fresh, pleasant palate.

MACCHIAROSSA TINTILIA DEL MOLISE / DENOMINAZIONE DI ORIGINE PROTETTA

27 APRIL 2016

via Santa Vara | Sant’Angelo all’Esca (AV) | tel. 082773766 | www.tenutapepe.it

<PM _QVMZa Q[ QV ;IV\¼)VOMTW ITT¼-[KI VMIZ )^MTTQVW ;\IZ\ing from the hill, rows of vines outline a picturesque TIVL[KIXM M^WSQVO IV I\UWsphere of France. The proprietor is Angelo Pepe, a famous restaurateur in Belgium, who was named a Cavaliere della Repubblica in Italy, a title WN »SVQOP\¼ QV ZMKWOVQ\QWV WN \PM _WZS PM LWM[ \W XZWUW\M Italian food culture abroad. Since 2005, his enologist daughter Milena has been at his side in this winery. TAURASI LA LOGGIA DEL CAVALIERE RIS. ’09 *TIKS XMXXMZ JTIKSJMZZQM[ and juniper berries; well-articulated, long and deep on the palate. FIANO DI AVELLINO BRANCATO ’14 Alternates tones of yellow peach, tropical fruit and _PQ\M ÆW_MZ[ Still nervous and not completely resolved.

THE EVENT/THE WINERIES

Martino

via La Vista, 2a | Rionero in Vulture (PZ) | tel. 0972721422 | www.martinovini.com The young Carolin Martino _WZS[ ITWVO[QLM PMZ NI\PMZ Armando at the helm of this long-established winery, and divides her time between the family business and the Con[WZbQW LMTT¼)OTQIVQKW LMT >]Tture, which she heads. Martino today has a super-modern winery in Rionero and vineyards in the best positions in the zone, such as the Bel Poggio estate in Ginestra. The grapes from their own property cover about one-third WN \PM M[\I\M¼[ ZMY]QZMUMV\[ The rest are purchased. AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE PRETORIANO ’10 Elegance, structure and balIVKM ) ÅVM ÅVQ[P WV UMLQKQnal herbs. AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BEL POGGIO ’10 Cherry and marasca cherry: ÆI^WZN]T IVL TWVO KTW[QVO WV licorice tones.

PUGLIA

Paolo Leo

Risveglio Agricolo

The entire Leo family, grapegrowers for four generations, _WZS[ _Q\P 8IWTW QV \PM Z]Vning of this winery, founded in 1989. The vineyards lie principally on tufaceous and calcareous soil in the municiXITQ\a WN ;IV ,WVIKQ" \PMa QVKT]LM ÅN\MMV aMIZ WTL ^MZ\Qcal trellis plantings and 40year old alberello vineyards. The principal varieties are the classic indigenous ones of Salento: negroamaro, malvasia nera di Lecce, malvasia bianca, and primitivo, as well as KPIZLWVVIa IVL ÅIVW TRIADE ROSSO ’13 Blend of primitivo, negroamaro and nero di troia, it presents notes of fruit and [_MM\ [XQKM[ I TQ\\TM ÆI\\MVML by excessive alcoholic heat. SALICE SALENTINO NERIMATTI RIS. ’10 )ZWUI[ WN ZQXM JTIKS KPMZZQM[ and dried aromatic herbs. Rich palate with still-tight tannin and good substance.

Risveglio Agricolo is one WN 8]OTQI¼[ JM[\ KWWXMZItive wineries. It is headed by Giovanni Nardelli, an agronomist with a passion for enology. Founded in 1958 by a group of Brindisi grapegrowers, today it is an icon of viticulture for Pugliese wine fans, not only in the zone itself, but in all of Italy. Labels of this cooperative have even reached JMaWVL \PM KW]V\Za¼[ JWZders, and these bottles also appear on Swiss and German tables. 72100 ’13 *TIKS NZ]Q\ _Q\P ^MOM\IT notes. Negroamaro with [QTSa IVL _MTT QV\MOZI\ML \IVVQV[ OWWL IKQLQK JIKSbone and depth. BRINDISI ROSSO SIMPOSIO RIS. ’10 Negroamaro and malvasia; pleasant, displaying sweet tones with notes of cherry and chocolate.

via Tuturano, 21 | San Donaci (BR) | tel. 0831635073 | www.paololeo.it

Cantine San Marzano

via Regina Margherita, 149 | San Marzano di San Giuseppe (TA) | tel.0999576100 | www.cantine sanmarzano.com The many labels (23, articulated in different lines) produced by this cooperative winery come from over 1,200 contributing members followed all year by the winery staff. It is one of the most important winegrowing businesses in all of Salento. Most of the vineyards are located in the municipalities of San Marzano, Sava and Francavilla Fontana. PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA SESSANTANNI ’12 Great concentration of ripe JTIKS NZ]Q\ *IT[IUQK IVL earthy notes. The palate is energetic and substantial, dense and well-contrasted by sapidity and elegant tannins. ESTELLA MOSCATO ’15 1UUMLQI\M IVL ÆWZIT IZWUI[ of yellow fruit and almond. Fresh and enjoyable on the palate. BEL POGGIO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE DENOMINAZIONE DI ORIGINE PROTETTA

Ottenuto dalla vinificazione in purezza di uve Aglianico dell’area del Vulture, offre profumi intensi e speziati, una bocca morbida, calda e vellutata frutto di un sapiente affinamento in rovere francese. Accompagna ottimamente arrosti, selvaggina e formaggi dal gusto forte. Stappare qualche ora prima di servire a 18-20 °C. L. 000-00

BASILICATA

Vinificato e imbottigliato da Casa vinicola Armando Martino s.r.l. Rionero in Vulture (PZ) ITALIA +39 0972 72 14 22 - www.martinovini.com CONTIENE SOLFITI - CONTAINS SULPHITES - ENTHÄLT SULFITE

PRODOTTO IN ITALIA

13,50% Vol 750 ml

28 APRIL 2016

c.da Torre Mozza | Brindisi | tel. 0831519948 | www.cantinerisveglio.it

SICILY

SARDINIA

A GUIDE TO THE LEADING 850 COMPANIES PRODUCING FOODSTUFFS IN ITALY

Vigneti Zanatta

Tenuta Coste Ghirlanda

via Spirito Santo | Olbia | tel. 3926947269 | www.vignetizanatta.it

loc. Piana di Ghirlanda | Pantelleria (TP) | tel. 3388244649 | www.costeghirlanda.it

The Zanatta family (in the Coste Ghirlanda shows the photo, Marco, son of Bruno best of Pantelleria by welZanatta) has been making coming guests and serving premium wines in Sardinia excellent food and wine. This for a long time. To guarantee young winery in the center quality, careful attention to of the island is marvelously production methods is key: promising. Two estates grow the grapes come from the zibibbo grapes: Montagnole, estate’s own vineyards, harin a splendid nature reserve, vested when fully ripe, transwhere the vineyards face Sicported to their own cellars ily, and Nikà, where the day and soft-pressed. The must is ends with beautiful sunsets then fermented at controlled towards the coast of Tunisia. temperatures. SILENZIO ’13 CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA From zibibbo grapes, the SALANA ’14 wine displays elegant notes Myrtle and wild berry aroof sage and orange blossom mas, slightly spicy, ready to on the nose. Dynamic palate. drink now.. PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA VERMENTINO DI GALLURA ALCOVA ’12 RENADORO ’15 Wonderfully complex nose. Aromatic herbs and yelSunny fruit, sweet, and very DOCG fruit. Palate played on a long on the palate.VERMENTINO DI GALLURAlow RENADORO sweet/bitter contrast. DESCRIZIONE: E’ un vino molto caratteristico, equilibrato e ben strutturato. Il terreno, la posizione geografica e la bassa resa di uva, gli conferiscono la sua tipicità inconfondibile. Ha riflessi verdognoli ed è morbido. Conservare a 15/18° C, và servito a 8/10°C. Provenienza: Gallura, Sardegna

CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA Vinificazione: DOC In bianco con pressatura soffice e fermentazione a 18 ° C in

SALANA contenitori di acciaio inox Gradazione: 13% Vol.

Di colore granato vivace, ha profumo Acidità totale: 5,2 g/l intenso, persistente, ampio Il Zuccheri:ed3,0etereo. g/l Cannonau di Sardegna sopporta lunghi invecchiamenti. Va conservato in una Capacità-Capacity cantina fresca, a temperatura costante e Unità-Cassa-Unit buia. Ideale con piatti molto strutturati quali Peso Cassa-Weight Casse le carni rosse, la selvaggina da penna e da pelo, ottimo anche conDimensione formaggio pecorino. Cassa-Case Dimension Servire ad una temperatura di circa 18-20°C. Provenienza: Nord Sardegna Base-Length

Vinificazione: Criomacerazione per 2 giorni e Profondità-Width successiva macerazione tradizionale per 8-10 giorni in contenitori inox ad una Altezza-Height temperatura di 24-26° C. Gradazione: 13,5% Vol. Acidità totale: 4,6 g/l Zuccheri: 2,0 g/l

0,75 lt

Casse/Pallet-Cases/Pallet

Casse/Strato-Cases/Layer

7,8 kg

Strati/Pallet-Layers/Pallet

Altezza Pallet-Pallets Height Tipo Pallet-Type of Pallet 25 cm

Barcode

16,5 cm 30cm

Capacità-Capacity

0,75 lt

Casse/Pallet-Cases/Pallet

Unità-Cassa-Unit

Casse/Strato-Cases/Layer

7,8 kg

Strati/Pallet-Layers/Pallet

Peso Cassa-Weight Casse Dimensione Cassa-Case Dimension

Altezza Pallet-Pallets Height Tipo Pallet-Type of Pallet

Base-Length

25 cm

Profondità-Width

16,5 cm

Barcode

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ANTEPRIME

ANTEPRIME Amarone and Brunello 31 APRIL 2016

TUSCAN ANTEPRIME

by Paolo De Cristofaro and Gianni Fabrizio

Brunello, 2010 and 2011 vintages on the 50th anniversary of the DOC It isn’t easy to choose what to highlight in a zone of well-known fame and talent, and with 127 wineries presenting their 2010 reserve wines and their 2011 Brunello labels. The tasting was particularly important because this edition, number NITT[ WV \PM ÅN\QM\P IVVQ^MZ[IZa WN \PM ZMKWOnition of the protected territorial denomination (the DOC) of Brunello di Montalcino. Over all, the vintage years proved to be valid. The tastings took place, as they have for some years, in the splendid Cloister Museo di Montalcino. The wines in the tasting were: Brunello di Montalcino 2011, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010, Rosso di Montalcino 2014 and 2013, Moscadello di Montalcino and various Sant’Antimo labels. We’ll tell you about those that struck us the most.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011

wine, in the best sense of the term, it XTIa[ _Q\P [KMV\[ WN LZQML ÆW_MZ[ ZWW\[ incense and a touch of plum that reminds us of the hot vintage year. The palate is [QOVQÅKIV\" ZQXM J]\ VW\ XTIKQL Q\ Q[ [][tained by a vigorous tannin structure to a ÅVQ[P \PI\ Q[ UWZM I][\MZM \PIV LZa

Armilla | www.armillawine.com This little winery belonging to Silverio Marchetti grew, step by step, after its NW]VLQVO QV ! 1V !! PM ÅVITTa XZWL]KML PQ[ ÅZ[\ *Z]VMTTW <WLIa PQ[ wife, daughters and grandchildren carry on his work. Two hectares of vineyard, planted in the Tavernelle zone in ! \]ZV W]\ I PIZUWVQW][ *Z]VMTTW with a clean, wonderful note of red berries intertwined with hints of sweet tobacco. Tight tannins are balanced by soft, pulpy fruit. A promising discovery.

Capanna |

Barbi | www.fattoriadeibarbi.it ?M VMML _QVM[ TQSM *IZJQ¼[ *Z]VMTTW in a zone that is so frenetically concerned about international markets. An old style

Fanti | www.tenutafanti.it

www.capannamontalcino.com After receiving rave reviews from wine _ZQ\MZ[ · *Z]VMTTW NIV[ PI^M IT_Ia[ unanimously appreciated Patrizio CenKQWVQ¼[ _QVM[ · \PM +MVKQWVQ NIUQTa PI[ no intention of resting on its laurels. In \PM *Z]VMTTW VW\M[ WN ZQXM KPMZZa tobacco and licorice are elements in a KWUXTM` IVL ZMÅVML UW[IQK ZM[\QVO WV an assertive tannic structure. A wine of great depth and length that should age for a long time in the cellar.

<PM *Z]VMTTW UILM Ja .QTQXXW .IV\Q IVL his daughter Elisa, who has been full time at the winery since 2007, represents

32 APRIL 2016

an archetype of the sangiovese grown in the southeastern part of the Montalcino bWVM \PM +I[\MTV]W^W LMTT¼)JI\M IZMI 1\ has ripe aromas of cherry and plum with hints of sweet spices and tobacco. In the mouth, a dense tannic texture and solid, correct acidity is balanced by the enveloping softness of alcohol that caresses the palate.

Il Marroneto |

www.ilmarroneto.com 1V\MZVI\QWVIT KZQ\QK[ PI^M ÅVITTa ZMKWOnized the magic that often accompanies \PM *Z]VMTTW WN 1T 5IZZWVM\W ¹\PM PQLden treasure of the northern slope of Montalcino,” as described by revered wine writer, Luigi Veronelli. The Madonna delle Grazie cru is by now considered the star of the denomination, but in the tastings of 2011, in this phase _M XZMNMZZML \PM JI[M _QVM" KPMZZa JMZgamot, spices, an edgy tannic charge, but with savory sweetness dictating the ZPa\PU NZWU \PM ÅZ[\ \W \PM TI[\ LZWX

Le Chiuse |

www.aziendaagricolalechiuse.it <PQ[ Q[ M`IK\Ta \PM \aXM WN *Z]VMTTW \PI\ _M PWXML \W ÅVL" []VVa IVL R]QKa but also multi-faceted and vital, a sangiovese that above all reveals the interpretative know-how of Simonetta Valiani, Niccolò and Lorenzo Magnelli. A triumph of red fruit, a saline backdrop, hints of berries and resin, a touch of black olive, it joins an evident Mediterranean temperament with a rigorous, [WTQL IVL [][\IQVML JIKSJWVM 1\ LWM[V¼\ UI\\MZ QN Q\ LWM[V¼\ ZM^MIT I\ TMI[\ NWZ now, the depth of the super version.

Le Potazzine | www.lepotazzine.it

Joyous, slender, empathetic, the 2011 ^MZ[QWV ZMÆMK\[ JW\P \PM [XMKQIT NMMTQVO JM\_MMV *Z]VMTTW IVL 4M 8W\IbbQVM IVL the hot and dry vintage year, more and more common in Montalcino recently. *MPQVL ZML]K\Q^M QUXIK\ WV \PM VW[M generous fruit and the clarity of the balsamic and medicinal herb shading are evident, even more in the foreground on \PM ÅZ[\ [QX <PMa MVTQ^MV \PM XITI\M IVL M[KWZ\ Q\ \W_IZL[ I [TQOP\Ta P]ZZQML ÅVQ[P marked by a moderate yet slightly unbalanced tannic structure.

Le Ragnaie | Brunello di Montalcino V.V. |

www.leragnaie.com Another masterful release from Le RagVIQM ITWVO _Q\P I ZIVOM WN *Z]VMTTW 2011 bottles. Among them, the complex IVL MTMOIV\ > > [PQVM[ Ja LMÅVQ\QWV <PM \MZU *]ZO]VLa TQSM Å\[ Q\ XMZNMK\Ta both for its aromatic tones (wild strawberry, oriental spices, woodsy essences), and for the long lines and penetrating ÆI^WZ[ WN \PM \I[\M XZWÅTM ) KWV\ZW^MZsial vintage year is evident in the brusque \IVVQV IVL I PMI\ML ÅVQ[P J]\ W^MZITT the wine is decidedly a success.

Mastrojanni | Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto |

www.mastrojanni.com Mastrojanni has gotten us accustomed once more to a standard that is simply impressive. The long-established win33 APRIL 2016

ery today belongs to the Illy family and Q[ PMILML Ja )VLZMI 5IKPM\\Q <PMa¼^M done it again with Vigna Loreto 2011, a *Z]VMTTW _Q\P I KTI[[QK IQZa VI\]ZM IVL stony, thermal tones deepening luxuriant fruity aromas. If you must look for a fault, it could be the slightly less dense ÆI^WZ J]\ \PM _QVM¼[ MI[a LZQVSIJQTQ\a Q[ unquestionable.

Canalicchio – Franco Pacenti |

www.canalicchiofrancopacenti.it In a steamy vintage year like 2011, we M`XMK\ML \W ÅVL IUWVO \PM JM[\ _QVM[ I [QbMIJTM V]UJMZ WN *Z]VMTTW TIJMT[ NZWU the northern slope of Montalcino. Not at all. Among the exceptions, is this one NZWU .ZIVKW 8IKMV\Q · +IVITQKKPQW ;\alistically it is very recognizable for its unusual dialogue between youthful fruity tones (pomegranate and mandarin) and I]\]UVIT [MV[I\QWV[ WN \Z]NÆM[ IVL NWZM[\ ÆWWZ ;WUM \IVVQK MLOQVM[[ LWM[V¼\ WJ[\Z]K\ Q\[ X]TXa IVL ÆI^WZN]T XZWOZM[sion.

Piancornello |

www.lacortedeiventi.it ¹) *Z]VMTTW LQ 5WV\ITKQVW QV I [W]\PMZV SMaº [W]VL[ TQSM I OWWL LMÅVQ\QWV WN \PM *Z]VMTTW TIJMT[ NZWU +TI]LQW 5WVIKQ His vineyards are planted on the red soil of the southernmost part of the Montalcino municipality, between CastelV]W^W LMTT¼)JI\M IVL ;IV\¼)VOMTW _Q\P an exposure towards Orcia and Monte Amiata. The wines have generous fragrances of plum jam and medicinal herbs, austere tannins and, above all, a striking savory vein.

Pieri Agostina |

www.pieriagostina.it Agostina Pieri, with the help of her sons, 2IKWXW IVL .ZIVKM[KW 5WVIKQ KPW[M \W XZWL]KM *Z]VMTTW QV I UWLMZV [\aTM ZQOP\ from the start. In the most recent releases, however, the wines grew in harmony IVL ÅVM[[M _Q\P I UWZM KIZMN]T ][M WN VM_ WIS <PM *Z]VMTTW NZWU \PM vineyards in Piancornello, stands out for the natural freshness of its nose (cherry, violets, tobacco) and for the amazing dyVIUQ[U WN ÆI^WZ [MV[I\QWV[

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TUSCAN ANTEPRIME

age altitude of 450 meters, and to its PQ[\WZa \PM *Z]VMTTW )T\MZW UILM Ja the Gloder family expresses the most ZMÅVML IVL MTMOIV\ KPIZIK\MZ WN \PM Montalcino territory. On a base of ripe cherry, complex hints of sweet spices and tobacco emerge, along with the sweetness of tannins and underlying, measured acidity. This is a harmonious UWLMZV *Z]VMTTW

Poggio di Sotto |

www.collemassari.it A reading of the vintage year in full Poggio di Sotto style is evident from the ÅZ[\ \I[\M[ WN \PM *Z]VMTTW :I[Xberry jelly, dried violets, ginseng, meLQKQVIT PMZJ[" XZIQ[M_WZ\Pa V]IVKM[ IZM IUXTQÅML Ja IV M\PMZMIT \W]KP \PI\ NIQ\Pfully reappears in the intense and at the same time rigorous palate. Sweet fruit, tonic, refreshing, with only large-grain \IVVQV \W [TW_ Q\ LW_V WV \PM ÅVQ[P 1\ Q[ a version worth keeping an eye on.

Sanlorenzo | Brunello di Montalcino Bramante 2011 |

Pietroso | www.pietroso.it

Since 1995, when Gianni Pignattai inherited the family winery, production has been limited only to Rosso and *Z]VMTTW LQ 5WV\ITKQVW +WUQVO NZWU three vineyards with different altitudes and microclimates, and from grapes worked in a straightforward manner, *Z]VMTTW 8QM\ZW[W WNNMZ[ I NIQ\PN]T M`pression of the territory. The 2011 is full of personality, with its complex aromas of cherry, licorice and damp soil on the nose and its impressive [\Z]K\]ZM OWWL IKQLQ\a IVL ZMÅVML \IVnins on the palate.

Poggio Antico | Brunello di Montalcino Altero |

www.poggioantico.com .IQ\PN]T \W Q\[ WZQOQV QV ^QVMaIZL[ OZW_ing on stony, calcareous soil at an aver-

sanlorenzomontalcino.it *ZIUIV\M OQ^M[ ][ IVW\PMZ ZMI[WV \W TW^M \PM *Z]VMTTW UILM Ja 4]KQIVW +QWTÅ 1\[ KPIZIK\MZ Q[ LMMXTa Montalcino-esque, with the austere and Mediterranean accents of the southwestern area where it originates. *T]MJMZZQM[ IVL [W]Z KPMZZQM[ 5MLQterranean brush and burned wood, its KITTQVO KIZL WTNIK\WZa XZWÅTM TMIL[ QV\W a caressing palate at the start and a UWZM LMUIVLQVO WVM WV \PM ÅVQ[P 1\ seems, as usual, one of the wines that is lagging in its evolution, but also one of the most promising.

Vasco Sassetti | Brunello di Montalcino 2011

1V +I[\MTV]W^W LMTT¼)JI\M \PM ;I[setti family has grown sangiovese vineyards since the beginning of the 20th century, but with Vasco Sassetti, the winery took a marked and irreversible turn towards top quality wines sold by the bottle. With the 2011 vintage, the 35 APRIL 2016

fruity aromas take on a tone of cherry marmalade, and the alcohol, less discreet than usual, emphasizes the softVM[[ WN \PM XPI[M .WZ\]VI\MTa I _MTcome savory note arrives to balance \PM TWVO ÅVQ[P

Sesti | www.sestiwine.com

The Castello di Argiano lies in the most southwestern part of the Montalcino municipality, where roe deer and wild boars are more common than human beings. The Sesti family has gotten us used to excellent reviews of its wine. After a somewhat open beginning, where medicinal herbs from \PM 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV JZ][P ÅTT \PM VW[M \PM *Z]VMTTW OIQV[ OZMI\ ^Q\ITQ\a Juicy fullness, docile tannins and sapidity are the leitmotiv of the tasting.

Talenti | www.talentimontalcino.it

1\¼[ KMZ\IQVTa VW\ IV MUMZOQVO _QVery, but Riccardo Talenti seems to have moved into a new dimension _Q\P *Z]VMTTW <PQ[ Q[ I UIOVQÅKMV\ _QVM _Q\PW]\ LW]J\ WVM WN the most enthralling and satisfying in \PQ[ ZW]VL .Z]Q\ Q[ TQOP\ OMVMZW][ IVL complex, but almost whispered in its stately aromatic pace. It changes gear on the palate into a sweet and saline, continuous, elegant mouthful. The tannin is severe, but drying only for I UWUMV\ \PMZM¼[ [W U]KP R]QKM IVL MVMZOa <PM ÅVQ[P WXMV[ W]\ QV\W UQV\ and mulberry.

Uccelliera |

www.uccelliera-montalcino.it )VLZMI +WZ\WVM[Q¼[ _QVM[ IZM IT_Ia[ controversial. Either you love them and accept their stylistic license, or their decisive, assertive character leaves you perplexed. The vineyards VM`\ \W \PM )JJIbQI LQ ;IV\¼)V\QUW ZMÆMK\ \PM UQVQUIT IT\Q\]LM IVL \PM great heat of the subzone. On the nose, aromas of tobacco, plum and cocoa have a southern accent. The wine has impressive structure, with tannins that are still rough but dense and progressive.

TUSCAN ANTEPRIME

VENDEMMIA 2011 UNCORK WITHOUT CONCERN A good vintage year – uncork without concern. This could be the motto \W NZIUM \PM 5WV\ITKQVW PIZ^M[\ XZM[MV\ML WNÅKQITTa \W \PM XZM[[ and trade operators on the occasion of Benvenuto Brunello – Edition 1\ _I[ I LQNÅK]T\ aMIZ _PQKP [\IZ\ML WNN _Q\P \PM ÅZ[\ XIZ\ WN \PM summer luminous and normal, without excesses. But in mid-August there was a long stretch of humid heat, high temperatures, little thermal excursion and frequent scirocco winds. The year’s climate is perceptible in a large series of wines that are aromatically open, with a Mediterranean feel, mainly focused on ripe fruit, spices, underbrush. )N\MZ I LMTQKQW][ IVL _MTKWUQVO ÆI^WZ QUXIK\ UWZM M^QLMV\ TQUQ\[ IZM noticeable on the development of the palate, marked by sensations of drying, even dehydration. These factors are due to a tannic weave that Q[ WN\MV OZIQVa IVL \W OMVMZW][ ÆI[PM[ WN ITKWPWT But what is lacking in harmony and depth is well-compensated for, in \PM JM[\ _QVM[ Ja \PM IXXMITQVOTa []VVa \QUJZM IVL I KWUXIK\ ÆIvorful structure that works well with a wide range of pairings. It is a vintage year that the wine shop owners, restaurants and wine bar managers will like, a Brunello ideal for drinking by the glass, and probably worth enjoying in its youthful phase, or little more.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2010 Le Chiuse di Sotto Gianni Brunelli |

www.giannibrunelli.it <PM *Z]VMTTW LQ 5WV\ITKQVW NZWU +PQuse di Sotto, like many others, is the product of a blend of grapes. Maria Laura Vacca, just as her husband and NW]VLMZ WN \PM _QVMZa /QIVVQ *Z]VMTTQ did, found the secret of harmony by blending the sangiovese from Podernovone (350 meters above sea level, facing Monte Amiata) with that from Chiuse NIKQVO >IT L¼7ZKQI <PM PQLM[ Q\[ studied power under an aromatic fruity IVL ÆWZIT TIaMZ

Canalicchio di Sopra |

www.canalicchiodisopra.com )UWVO UIVa *Z]VMTTW :Q[MZ^I JW\\TM[ \PI\ LWV¼\ [MMU \W OW JMaWVL \PM [MIZKP for more maturity and power, the one from Canalicchio di Sopra is regularly notable for its original character. The Q[ VW M`KMX\QWV" P]U][ NWZM[\

ÆWWZ [W]Z KPMZZa R]QKM Q\ UIQV\IQV[ both charm and depth thanks to a compact and vigorous palate. It is probably worth the trouble to wait for it for anW\PMZ Å^M aMIZ[ 1\[ XW\MV\QIT NWZ I TWVO life is a sure thing.

Caprili | www.caprili.it <PM _QVMZa JMTWVOQVO \W \PM *IZ\WTWUmei family is one of the few in MontalciVW \PI\ IT_Ia[ [PQVM[ _Q\P Q\[ *Z]VMTTW Riserva. A new example appears with the 2010. It starts off slightly reduced IVL aMI[\a <PMV \PM UW\WZ [_Q\KPM[ WV" just-gathered currants and blackberries, incense, wax, plowed soil aromas. The palate also is typical of Montalcino to \PM KWZM" R]QKa ÆI^WZN]T ZMIK\Q^M Q\ WVTa needs time to soften and harmonize the dense tannin. Fattoi | www.fattoi.it

1N \PQ[ Q[V¼\ \PM JM[\ :Q[MZ^I \I[\ML I\ *MV^MV]\W *Z]VMTTW Q\ UQ[[M[ Ja very little. It is certainly the interpretation that best embodies the concept of »VI\]ZIT M`XZM[[Q^MVM[[¼ [WUM\PQVO \PI\ \WW WN\MV Q[ UQ[[QVO NZWU \PQ[ \aXWTWOa" I _QVM \PI\¼[ NZMM \W ]VTMI[P Q\[ MVMZOa without losing in precision and balance. Iodine, earth, roots, and a vital nose that 36 APRIL 2016

illuminates its double soul, rigorous biting and tasting tannin, joyfully juicy, citrusy fruit, almost salty.

Il Poggione | Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Paganelli Ris. 2010 |

www.tenutailpoggione.it ?M IZM PIXXa \W ÅVL I OZMI\ KTI[[QK WN the southern slope of Montalcino, Vigna Paganelli Riserva 2010 from Il PogOQWVM QV []KP ÅVM NWZU ) ^QV\IOM aMIZ that was cool overall conferred fruity integrity and a certain aromatic amplitude, with balsamic, spicy, and medicinal herb scents. The usual tannic density is present, but the texture is pulpy and tight, not drying, and allows the savory tonic tone to last for the entire mouthful.

La Fortuna |

www.tenutalafortuna.it A few years ago, the Zannoni family celebrated the hundredth anniversary WN \PM X]ZKPI[M WN 8WLMZM 4I .WZ\]VI northeast of the Montalcino center. Over the years, they added vineyards QV +I[\MTV]W^W LMTT¼)JI\M IVL ZMIKPML the present-day 18 hectares. A deep

TUSCAN ANTEPRIME knowledge of their own territory allows the Zannoni to offer a few bottles WN *Z]VMTTW LQ 5WV\ITKQVW :Q[MZ^I QV the best years. On the nose it reveals a contrast between fruity clarity and spicy sweetness, while on the palate, fresh IKQLQ\a IVL UW]\P ÅTTQVO \IVVQV[ KWVtribute to shaping its character.

Lisini | Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 2010 | www.lisini.com

Today the grandchildren of that extraordinary Montalcino personality Elina Lisini, manage this historic winery, located in the southern part of the municipality. The family has the good fortune to own, among the over 20 hectares of sangiovese vineyard, some of the oldest vines in the DOC, dating back to the 1930s and 1940s. Vigna Ugolaia is one. The 2010 offers all the warmth of its origin, with opulent fruity aromas refreshed by notes of tobacco, mint and damp soil. On the palate, extraordinary tactile fullness is balanced by tannins and acidity.

a white wine, and with earthy and bal[IUQK VW\M[ ILLQVO KWUXTM`Q\a .ZM[Pness and a sense of proportions are also respected on the palate, sustained by vertical character and by saline energy, more than by volume.

Solaria | Brunello di Montalcino 123 Ris. | www.solariacencioni.com

The winery was founded in the 1950s thanks to Giuseppe Cencioni, but the aim of producing quality wines came in 1989 with his granddaughter, Patrizia. The wines produced come from ten hectares of vineyard on a plateau about 300 meters above sea level in the southeast zone of Montalcino. The wine has a modern, but not too modern style, with an eye always to tradition as well. In the 2010 Riserva, notes of red fruit and licorice, enriched by sensations of leather on the nose. The mouth is deep and juicy, with a stern tannic texture \PI\ WNNMZ[ I TWVO IZQ[\WKZI\QK ÅVQ[P

Podere Le Ripi | Brunello di Montalcino Lupi e Sirene Ris. |

www.podereleripi.it .ZIVKM[KW 1TTa \PM PMQZ \W I LaVI[\a WN coffee entrepreneurs, has owned this UIOVQÅKMV\ M[\I\M VMIZ 5WV\M )UQI\I [QVKM !! .ZWU \PM JMOQVVQVO PM QVterpreted his work courageously, planting vineyards at stunning densities and cultivating them according to natural and biodynamic principals. After 48 months of aging in large oak casks, the resulting wine is simply extraordinary. In a nose of great personality, the fruity character marries darker aromas of licorice and medicinal herbs. The mouth RWQV[ NZM[PVM[[ IVL LMV[Q\a ÅVQ[PQVO [Ivory and long.

Tenuta di Sesta |

www.tenutadisesta.it The light, progressive style of the *Z]VMTTW :Q[MZ^I NZWU <MV]\I LQ Sesta won us over immediately. The nose is decidedly spring-like, with petals, berries both red and black, almost like

RISERVA 2010 GREAT EXPECTATIONS, SOME DISAPPOINTMENTS <PM ÅZ[\ TWWS I\ \PM *Z]VMTTW LQ 5WV\ITKQVW :Q[MZ^I Q[ LQ[IXXWQV\ing. Expectations were legitimately high, considering the brilliant performances of many of the regular versions of the year, described enthusiastically in the 2016 edition of Vini d’Italia. It may seem a contradiction, but it’s not. The stylistic limitations come forward in an evident way, more than the elements of the vintage year. For too long, QV NIK\ \PM :Q[MZ^I PI[ JMMV QV\MZXZM\ML IVL VW\ WVTa QV 5WV\ITKQVW as an ‘important wine’, but basically in a quantitative key. Therefore, more mature fruit, more power, more extractive, the contribution of \PM WIS KI[S[ ][ML QV IOQVO VW\ IT_Ia[ KIUW]ÆIOML ?QVM[ \PI\ IZM drier, more than austere, lacking energy and drinkability, don’t add much to the respective base wines, physiological exceptions aside. Moreover, it is right and normal to take into account the prestige and KW[\ WN \PM[M _QVM[ KWV[\IV\Ta QVKZMI[QVO NWZ I\ TMI[\ Å^M aMIZ[ IVL LMÅVQ\Q^MTa M`XTWLQVO IN\MZ \PM _IZU _MTKWUM OQ^MV \W \PM ^QV\IOM especially by Anglo-Saxon wine critics. Brunello is a globally famous brand. The cost of land, of grapes and bulk wines explain it better than any logical reconstruction can. This is also why we expect a further leap in quality in terms of interpretative sensibility for the more ambitious types, which would be, at least in theory, also those with the deepest roots in tradition.

38 APRIL 2016

vini del pollino

CONTRADA CIPARSIA CASTROVILLARI (CS) CALABRIA www.tenuteferrocinto.it

VENETO ANTEPRIME

Ja 4WZMVbW :]OOMZQ

Amarone. 2012, a vintage ready to drink

2012 was a complicated year, uphill all the way for most of Italy, as well as for the rest of Europe. In Valpolicella, the spring was fairly damp, while between June and August there were four heat waves, with peak temperatures even above those of the dreadful 2003, along with major water stress. Precipitation was down 35% compared to normal levels. Grapegrowers were able to breathe freely only at the end of the summer, thanks to cooler, more linear weather. We blindtasted all 77 Amarone 2012 labels at the Anteprima (preview) organized by the local Consorzio. Sixty percent were samples from the barrel (see below, indicated as da botte). Missing were the labels from the Famiglie dell’Amarone d’arte, which don’t belong to the Consorzio. In our tastings, we found a series of ready and expressive wines, in some cases already low on energy, with marked fruity components on one hand, but also with a consistently more thoughtful use of oak and less concentration than you might expect. As a result, sometimes the sugar component of the vintage was accentuated, but there was no shortage of seductive wines with full, ripe fruit. All in all, the Amarone vintage year makes itself felt and seems to express ITT Q\[ UWWL[ <_W ÅVIT KWV[QLerations: more than ever the vineyards on the upper slopes are markedly different and the selections of the so-called base very often achieved much higher

Monte Zovo – Cottini | Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Danieli 2012 (da botte) |

www.paolocottini.it One of the most interesting surprises. A wine of praiseworthy elegance, with a ÅVM _MTT KWUXW[ML [XQKQness, ranging from blond tobacco to freshly-ground pepper, a measured bal[IUQK XZWÅTM IVL ^MZa well-calibrated sweet fruitiness. A savory tone is clear and pronounced, the tasting path incisive and satisfying. The ÅVQ[P Q[ ITZMILa ^MZa _MTT ZM[WT^ML

Viviani | Amarone della Vapolicella Classico 2012 (da botte) |

www.cantinaviviani.com Seductive and well-articulated scents that range from ground coffee to herbs, along with fragrant, ripe, pulpy fruit. The palate proves to be taut, agile, very natural in its expression, _Q\P IV ITUW[\ [IT\a ÅVQ[P \PI\ [PILM[ off very well, prolonged by a long return of Asian spices. Elegant and very pleasant.

Ca’ dei Frati | Amarone della Valpolicella 2012 (da botte) | www.cadeifrati.it

Dark, dense and compact wine. Tones of black pepper, bitter cocoa and underbrush lead into a densely rich but never weak palate, enlivened by rhythmic and well-paced taste \M`\]ZM .QVQ[P KWV\QV]M[ WV \WVM[ WN mint and pencil lead. The balance of all the components is praiseworthy. .]TT WN NTI^WZ

40 APRIL 2016

Corte San Benedetto | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012 (da botte) |

www.cortesanbenedetto.it Less evolved compared to the other samples tasted, but with notable ten[QWV 7V ÅZ[\ QUXIK\ N]TTa ZQXM KPMZZa is warm and enveloping, while the palate changes gear with decisive, [\ZQSQVO ÆI^WZ IVL I R]QKa XZWOZM[[Q^M ÅVQ[P +TW[M[ WV \WVM[ WN LZQML PMZJ[ and bitter cocoa.

Corte Rugolin | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Danieli 2012 (da botte) |

www.corterugolin.it .QN\a aMIZ WTL ^QVM[ XMZOWTI \ZIQVML about 350 meters above sea level. The wine seems like the child of another ^QV\IOM aMIZ" NZM[P \WVM[ WN UQV\ [IOM IVL JMZZQM[ .]TT XITI\M _Q\P TQ^MTa acidic contrast, certainly not yet resolved, but with notable depth of ÆI^WZ )TT \PM MTMUMV\[ IZM \PMZM NWZ a truly interesting evolution in the bottle.

Sartori | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Reius 2012 | www.sartorinet.com

Good basic harmony in this wine that combines a dark, dense and delicious fruity timbre with wellcalibrated extraction in oak. Tones of licorice and pencil lead into a creamy, agile palate and a UW]\P ÅTTQVO QVKQ[Q^M ÅVQ[P

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantina | Amarone della Valpolicella Famiglia Pasqua 2012 | www.pasqua.it

?PMV ÅZ[\ XW]ZML Q\ ZMTMI[M[ ^MZa ZQXM IZWUI[ and a fairly clear smoky note, which little by little leave space for ripe black fruit tones and sensations of orange peel. The palate has a different pace and an excellent savory tone, fruit that is [_MM\ J]\ VW\ M`KM[[Q^MTa [W IVL I ÅVQ[P WN OWWL aromatic length.

Cantina Valpantena Verona | Amarone della Valpolicella Torre del Falasco 2012 |

www.cantinavalpantena.it An immediate and very pleasant Amarone. Opens on notes of oriental spices, tobacco and alcohol-preserved cherries, enlivened by a palate that is already well-resolved and dynamic, with ripe and truly pleasurable fruit and a cre[KMVLW WN KTMIV KTMIZ TQVMIZ ÆI^WZ )TT \PQ[ NWZ less than 30 euros in wine shops.

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Domini Veneti 2012 |

www.cantinanegrar.it -`\ZIK\Q^M IVL XW_MZN]T [\aTM _Q\P VW\IJTM ÆIvor balance. It opens on aromas of coffee, bitter cocoa and warm, enveloping notes of currants. The mouth is rich and pulpy, lively, with an intriguing spicy undertone, sensations of thyme and sweet tannins.

Corte Sant’Alda | Valpolicella Ca’ Fiui 2014 | www.cortesantalda.it Drink slightly chilled. The color is pale and inviting. Pure and clear fragrances of cherries, JTIKSJMZZQM[ IVL I LMTQKI\MTa IZWUI\QK ÆWZIT \WVM Delicious and spontaneous in the mouth, it has a [UWSa KTW[M WV \PM ÅVQ[P \PI\ QV^Q\M[ IVW\PMZ [QX -[\QUI\ML \QUM \PM WXMV JW\\TM TI[\[" MQOP\ UQVutes. During the Amarone presentation dinner for journalists, it was by far the wine most reached for. 41 APRIL 2016

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by Maurizio Bertera photos by Aromi Creativi

The chef, who has been the symbol of Veronaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hospitality for twenty-five years, tells about the many culinary sites he created in the city he returned to a little over a year ago, to realize his dream

VERONA LA MIA CASA

Perbellini talks about his favorite places

43 APRIL 2016

TRAVEL

rom Castel San Pietro – “Be sure you get there on foot, by the staircase to the side of the Teatro Romano” – the view over the city of Romeo and Juliet is spectacular, and especially so on a winter day when the sun is reÆMK\ML QV \PM )LQOM :Q^MZ /QIVKIZTW Perbellini, symbol and idol of VeZWVI K]Q[QVM TWWS[ W]\ IVL [UQTM[ ¹1 KIV¼\ PMTX TW^QVO PMZ <PM >MZWVM[Q went to my places in the city and M^MV KIUM \W 1[WTI LMTTI ;KITI SQTWUM\MZ[ I_Ia 1 NMT\ 1 PIL \W KWUM JIKS PMZM \W ZMITQbM IV WTL LZMIU 1 hoped for the success of Casa PerJMTTQVQ J]\ 1 _I[V¼\ []ZM º 1V[\MIL in his gourmet jewel box in Piazza San Zeno, local food and wine fans, ^Q[Q\WZ[ NZWU W\PMZ 1\ITQIV KQ\QM[ IVL \ZI^MTQVO NWZMQOVMZ[ ITT [PW_ ]X 7V the other hand, to the chef ’s dismay, tourists are beginning to disapXMIZ NZWU \PM OMVMZIT )LQOM IZMI “We had the most elegant tourism QV VWZ\PMZV 1\ITa M[XMKQITTa /MZUIV[ IVL ;_Q[[ <WLIa VW\ M^MV \PM )ZMVI¼[ WXMZI[ IZM N]TTa I\\MVLML 1 think it was an error to aim for mass \W]ZQ[U <PMZM IZM UIZSML XZWJlems with hotels, although the overall quality of restaurants is better than \PI\ WN W]Z VMQOPJWZ[ >MZWVI PI[ I\ least a dozen excellent places, more than Mantua, Brescia or Vicenza, for M`IUXTM *]\ Q\¼[ VW\ MVW]OP º Perbellini has been a star in Verona NWZ aMIZ[ 1V !! \WOM\PMZ _Q\P -TQI :QbbW KPMN I\ 1T ,M[KW IVW\PMZ unmissable place) he opened San *I[QTQW ITTI 8MZOWTI <PMV PM X]\ PQ[ [QOVI\]ZM WV 7[\M ;K]ZW _PQKP launched a revolution in Verona on \PM Å[P ZM[\I]ZIV\ NZWV\ IVL WV \PM \ZI\\WZQI )T 8WUXQMZM \PM [\ZWVOPWTL of traditional cucina in Verona and \PM >MVM\W ¹<PMZM _I[ I [XQZQ\ WN young adventure about it, the pleasure of doing things together with people you like, who are partners at the start or who become so during the work and at the end, they

J]a \PM XTIKM 1V W]Z _WZTL Q\¼[ ZIZM \W ÅVL [WUMWVM _PW PI[ KTMIZ QLMI[ JMNWZM \PM IOM WN IVL \PI\¼[ OWWL 1 \PQVS 7VTa Ja _WZSQVO NWZ I _PQTM LW aW] ÅVL \PM ZQOP\ XI\P_Ia IVL \PM IJQTQ\a \W NWTTW_ Q\ _MTT <PI\¼[ PW_ Q\ _I[ NWZ ][ NWZ UM <PMV Q\¼[ KTMIZ \PI\ not everyone is suited to opening a ZM[\I]ZIV\ I [\IZ\ ]X 1 TQSM Q\ I TW\ 1\ UISM[ UM NMMT ITQ^M 5IaJM W\PMZ[ LWV¼\ MVRWa Q\ I\ ITT º <PM ZM[]T\ Q[ I network of places that are always interesting, curated in every detail, and OZMI\ \W [XMVL \QUM QV <PMZM IZM KTQents that go to more than one in the same week, and then to Casa PerbelTQVQ I KW]XTM WN \QUM[ I aMIZ ¹1V \PQ[ sense, having different places stimuTI\M[ NWWL MV\P][QI[\[¼ QV\MZM[\ )N\MZ a while, they want to see Piazza San BMVW º 8MZJMTTQVQ []ZUQ[M[ The birth of the new concept led to another original idea, a mini-hotel UM\MZ[ NZWU +I[I 8MZJMTTQVQ 1\¼[ called Cinque, for the number of its ZWWU[ MIKP _Q\P \W\ITTa QVLMXMVdent access, since there’s no recep\QWV LM[S ¹<PI\¼[ \PM NI]T\ WZ UMZQ\ 44 APRIL 2016

MERLO FOTO

of the architect who did our last XTIKM ?PMV 1 [IQL Q\ _W]TL JM OZMI\ to be able to offer hospitality to those who were visiting from far away, he came up with this bright idea, restorQVO IV WTL J]QTLQVO QV \PM KMV\MZ 1 like it because the rooms have an inNWZUITTa T]`]ZQW][ VI\]ZM º )VW\PMZ peculiarity of this street hotel is the Tarantino-inspired naming of the ZWWU[" 5Z *T]M 5Z /ZIa 5Z 8QVS 5Z 8]ZXTM IVL 5Z ?PQ\M <PM WTLM[\ ZM[\I]ZIV\ QV \PM OZW]X Q[ \PM ,] de Cope (the two of cups, a tarot card), a pizzeria that has had every table full for over a decade, with P]VLZML[ [PW_QVO ]X WV _MMSMVL[ “We were thinking about real NeaXWTQ\IV XQbbI <W PQ\ \PM ZQOP\ VW\M 1 _MV\ ZM[MIZKPQVO QV 6IXTM[ NWZ \PM ÅZ[\ \QUM QV Ua TQNM 1 M`XTWZML \PM LW]OP \PM XZWL]K\[ \PM UM\PWL[ )\ \PI\ \QUM \PM [WXPQ[\QKI\QWV WN good pizza was just beginning to be ]VLMZ[\WWL <WLIa ITT \PM JM[\ KPMN[ PI^M I UM\PWL º *M[QLM[ \PM [\aTM which is truly Neapolitan, the mozzarella and tomatoes used are all

TRAVEL

from Campania, and the special pizbI UMV] KPIVOM[ M^MZa [Q` UWV\P[ )VW\PMZ [\ZWVO XWQV\ WN \PM ,] LM Cope is the beer selection – about twenty artisanal brands, selected by LQZMK\WZ -]OMVQW +I^ITTIZW :QOP\ next door is Tapasotto, a place that’s not easily categorized, but that wins aW] W^MZ WV \PM ÅZ[\ \Za 1\¼[ I TQ\\TM like a cicchetteria veneziana (a snack and wine bar), a little like a tapas bar, and a little like a osteria, since the classic little plates can be followed by a more []J[\IV\QIT WVM XZQUQ WZ ÅZ[\ KW]Z[M[ QV XIZ\QK]TIZ ¹<PMZM¼[ \PM KWVKMX\ of sharing delicious dishes, drinking _MTT 1 IXXZMKQI\ML Q\ I OZMI\ LMIT QV New York while we were launching \PM OZMI\ /QW^IVVQ :IVI ZM[\I]ZIV\ 1 PIL \PM LM[QZM \W LW [WUM\PQVO [QUQTIZ QV >MZWVI º <IXI[W\\W Q[ Z]V Ja a dynamic pair, chef Federico Zonta IVL UI{\ZM L¼ 4]KI .I[WTQV .WZ Å[P )T +IXQ\IV LMTTI +Q\\ILMTTI Q[ \PM XTIKM 8MZPIX[ \PM VIUM LWM[V¼\ immediately suggest the sea, but all Veronesi consider it a must for an allW]\ Å[P LQVVMZ ¹1 \PW]OP\ WN Q\ I[ I OWWL VM`\ [\MX IN\MZ 7[\M ;K]ZW \PM best restaurant in town with superior WNNMZQVO[ IVL XZQKM[ \W UI\KP 1 LQLV¼\ want to compete, but to offer seafood KTI[[QK[ · ZI_ NZQML OZQTTML -^MZathing depends on the availability in the market, with appealing ideas like \PM /ZIV 8QI\\W LMT +IXQ\IVW NWZ I \IJTM \W [PIZM <PI\ KW[\[ M]ZW[ J]\ \PMZM IZM \_W OWWL XZQ` Å`M UMV][ I\ IVL M]ZW[ º )\ \PM PMIL Q[ )VLZMI 5IVbWTQ TWVO \QUM NZQMVL WN /QIVKIZTW 8MZJMTTQVQ -^MV more famous, and not only in VeZWVI Q[ 4WKIVLI +]WKPQ NW]VLML QV .WZ\M >QTTIOM ¹) NM_ aMIZ[ IOW QV ;IZLQVQI 1 ZMITQbML 1 PIL NW]VL \PM XMZNMK\ JITIVKM <PZMM aW]VO XMWXTM QV \PM JZQOILM IVL 1 KW]TL PIVLTM IJW]\ O]M[\[ QV ! UQV]\M[ _Q\P IV IKKMX\IJTM NWWL KW[\ IVL [I\Q[ÅML KTQMV\[ :WKKW 1IVVWVM [IQL »<PQ[ Q[ the ideal formula, and you have to LW \PQ[ I\ PWUM ¼ )N\MZ \_W aMIZ[ WN [QUXI\QKW [\ZM[[ 1 WXMVML QV !

AL CAPITAN, CAPUN MAGRO, SEAFOOD MEDLEY

GIANCARLO’S CHOICES What can you ask a chef who has everything of his own what he thinks about someone else’s food and wine in his city? We tried anyway, and we did get answers. “Right in front of Locanda 4 Cuochi is Osteria La Mandorla, a big wine bar where you can drink until late into the night. For breakfast, a look at the newspapers and a chat, I go to Urban Café, also in Via Mario Alberto. Another nice place is the CAFÉ CARDUCCI in the heart of Veronetta (www. cafecarducci.it) which is great for an aperitif or for a cheese platter to have with one of the many wines in their cellar. I like their retro atmosphere, which reminds me of Paris. For gelato, I would choose NIQU in Borgo Roma (www.niqugelateria.it) and L’ARTE DEL GELATO in via Leoni. Outside the city, I’ve always liked the TRATTORIA ALLA RUOTA in Negrar (www.trattoriaallaruota.it), in wine country, with its menu and lovely outdoor space. In Roverchiara, I adore LE 4 CIACOLE, an inn that has as its slogan ‘magnar, bear e dormir”, eat, drink and sleep! It offers many niche products and has a great wine cellar (www.le4ciacole.it). Another place to visit, in San Giovanni Lupatoto, is CAPRINI BOTTEGA & CUCINA (www.icaprini.it. They have a hundred different kinds of cheese and thirty types of cured meats.”

46 APRIL 2016

Family traditions since 5 generations

Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it

TRAVEL

AL CAPITAN. CHEF ANDREA MANZOLI WITH THE SOUSCHEF

QV I TWKI\QWV \PI\ 1 PIL JMMV NWTTW_ing all my life, that appeared at the ZQOP\ UWUMV\ ,M[\QVa 1 \PQVS *]\ 1 PI^M \W \PIVS 1IVVWVM QN 1 JZW]OP\ Q\ WNN Âş <PM 4WKIVLI Q[ IV M`KMTTMV\ example of how to serve good dishes (â&#x20AC;&#x153;they are reinterpretations of cucina italiana in a contemporary keyâ&#x20AC;?, says Perbellini) in a pleasant ambience, where the brigade, let by Moreno 8MTTMOZQVQ IVL ,IZQW .ZIKI[[W IT[W contributes above-average enthusiI[U <PIVS[ \W QV\MTTQOMV\ [PWXXQVO which eliminates the expensive cuts WN UMI\ \PM XZQKM Q[ IJW]\ M]ros, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s even a small tasting UMV] I\ WVTa M]ZW[ )VL Ă&#x2026;VITTa \PMZMÂź[ ,WTKM 4WKIVLI AW] UQOP\ \PQVS \PI\ /QIVKIZTW \PM son and grandson of a family that wrote the history of Venetoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pastrymaking, would be having special N]V _Q\P \PQ[ Âš1 PI^M IT_Ia[ JMMV more a chef than a pastry cook,â&#x20AC;? PM M`XTIQV[ ÂšJ]\ ,WTKM 4WKIVLI Q[ I [MZQW][ IVL LQNĂ&#x2026;K]T\ ZM[XWV[QJQTQ\a IVL 1 LQLVÂź\ OQ^M Q\ MVW]OP \QUM TI[\ aMIZ 4]KSQTa \PM XMZ[WV QV KPIZOM Q[

/Q]TQI +MZJWVM[KPQ IVL [PMÂź[ ^MZa KIXIJTM ;PM Q[ \PM -UMZOQVO 8I[\Za +PMN NWZ \PM /IUJMZW :W[[W QV ,WTKM 4WKIVLI PI[ \PM RWJ WN supplying the other restaurants, but WN Q\[ XZWL]K\QWV Q[ [WTL W^MZ \PM KW]V\MZ []KKM[[N]TTa 7]Z ZQ[QVQ (rice tarts) are unmatched in Verona, but our little pastries, brioches IVL KPMM[MKISM IZM XWX]TIZ \WW Âş /Q^MV \PM [WKQIT K]TQVIZa QVĂ&#x2020;]MVKM of Perbellini in the city, we ask him QN PM UQOP\ Z]V NWZ MTMK\QWV Âš.WZ goodnessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; sake, better to avoid XWTQ\QK[ 1 _W]TL JM ZMILa \W KWUmit myself to change the quality of \PW[M _PW KWUM PMZM 1 _IV\ \W TQ^M in an important tourist destination where we can speak with the institutions and explain that we need to think more about the decorum of \PM KQ\a W^MZITT Âş 1\ [MMU[ M^QLMV\ that Perbellini is not about to enter politics, but any future mayor should pay attention to him, if for no other reason than the great love he feels for Verona and its inhabitIV\[ 48 APRIL 2016

A DISH AT TAPASOTTO

PIZZERIA DU DE COPE

DOLCE LOCANDA. DOLCE LOCANA. PREPARING SINGLE-PORTION MILLEFOGLIE

49 APRIL 2016

Vineyard for Vineyard. Wine for Wine. www.kellerei-kurtatsch.it

TRAVEL

CAFÉS & BARS CAFFÈ ALEXANDER |

VIA LOCATELLI, 15 | TEL. 045 597 569

CAFFÈ BORSARI |

C.SO PORTONI BORSARI, 15D | TEL. 045 8031313

CAFFÈ COLONIALE |

P.TTA VIVIANI, 14C | TEL. 045 801 2647

FLEGO | C.SO PORTA BORSARI, 9 |

TEL. 045 8032471

PIZZACAFFÈ LA TORRE |

COFFELE | SOAVE CL. CA’ VISCO ’14 | SOAVE (VR) | WWW.COFFELE.IT

LE VIGNE DI SAN PIETRO | BARDOLINO ’14 | SOMMACAMPAGNA (VR) | WWW.LEVIGNEDISANPIETRO.IT

STRADONE SCIPIONE MAFFEI, 1 |

GUERRIERI RIZZARDI | VALPOLICELLA CL. SUP. RIPASSO POJEGA ’13 | BARDOLINO (VR) | WWW.GUERRIERI-RIZZARDI.IT

VILLA SPINOSA | VALPOLICELLA CL. SUP. RIPASSO JAGO ’11 | NEGRAR (VR) | WWW.VILLASPINOSA.IT

VIA PONTE NUOVO, 8 | TEL. 366 5922835

MARCATO | SOAVE CL. PIGNO ’13 | RONCÀ (VR) | WWW.MARCATOVINI.IT

VIVIANI | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. CASA DEI BEPI ’10 | NEGRAR (VR) | WWW.CANTINAVIVIANI.COM

TEL. 045 2525464

TOSCA CAFÉ |

TRE FOGLIE 2016. province of Verona CA’ RAINENE | TORRI DEL BENACO (VR) | WWW.PAOLOBONOMELLI.COM

ZENATO | AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. SERGIO ZENATO RIS. ’09 | PESCHIERA DEL GARDA (VR) | WWW.ZENATO.IT

FRANTOIO BONAMINI | ILLASI (VR) | WWW.OLIOBONAMINI.COM

WHERE TO EAT IN VERONA

TENUTA POJANA | CAZZANO DI TRAMIGNA (VR) | WWW.TENUTAPOJANA.IT

51 APRIL 2016

SAN CASSIANO | MEZZANE DI SOTTO (VR) | WWW.CANTINASANCASSIANO.IT SISURE | MEZZANE DI SOTTO (VR) | WWW.SISURE.IT

TRAVEL

text and photography by Antonella Cecconi

photo by Paolo Gotti

CUBA

the allure of the Caribbean 52 APRIL 2016

In a period of effervescent transition, after the reopening of embassies and the recent trip of the pope, this Caribbean island is a fascinating place to visit. It is exciting to experience the blend between old style and the new on its way in

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assimo Bottura will launch his restaurant here before next Christmas and a free megaconcert by the Rolling Stones is scheduled for March 25, 2016. “Cuba will be the new destination over the next ten years,” says Italy’s number one chef. He wants to open, together with Andoni Luis Aduriz from Mugaritz in San Sebastian and Enrique Olvera of Pujol in Mexico City, a restaurant that offers a mix of Mediterranean-Caribbean food seasoned with good music. Quality ingredients are abundant PMZM" NZM[P Å[P M`W\QK NZ]Q\ [XQKM[ free-range chicken. Cuba is an Eden where visitors can forget winter, enjoy the sparkling aromas of sea breezes, combine cocktails and Caribbean rhythms. Although the island is rich in history and art, it has been tested by decades of embargo. The

atmosphere of the 1960s has been XZM[MZ^ML QV \PM )UMZQKIV /ZINÅ\Q style cars and the absence of the []XMZÆ]W][ )T\PW]OP \PM [\I\M XZWvides the basic needs of the people, wide-spread consumerism is still a mirage. The marks of colonialism are evident in the sumptuous art nouveau architecture, some of it in decay, some splendidly restored. The Grand Hotel is only for foreigners, and the double money system is confusing (1 CUC is a convertible Cuban peso, worth about 1 euro or a little over a dollar for tourists and for imports, and equal to about 29 Cuban pesos, the moneda nacional, or CUP). Just outside the capital city, nature is pristine: deserted beaches, wetlands, tropical forest. Almost a quarter of the island’s nature is protected. Visitors can best see Cuba by renting a four-wheel drive or traveling on the comfortable Viazul, air-conditioned

buses for tourists. A tour of the western half of the island can begin at the national park of the Valle de Viñales: palm trees, corn and tobacco ÅMTL[ IVL mogotes, the limestone-karst panettone-shaped rocks from the Jurassic period (160 million years ago). Riding a horse through the silent valley feels like traveling back in time. Visit a tobacco plantation where the iconic puros are made, the natural cigars that Che Guevara smoked. The Cueva del Indio is a system of caverns that lead to an underground river. After a section on foot, exploration continues in a motor boat. The best view of the valley is from Los Jazmines, the hotel near the La Terraza restaurant, set in lush vegetation. For a day at the sea, go north to Cayo Jutías, an island linked by causeway to the main land and its white beaches. To the southeast is the peninsula

photo by Paolo Gotti

PALACIO DE LOS CAPITANES GENERALES, HOME OF THE MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD

of Zapata, a wetland, bird and aniUIT ZM[MZ^M _PMZM KZWKWLQTM[ ÆW]Zish. Playa Larga, a renowned beach, although not one of the best, is near the Playa Giron, the site of the unfortunate Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961. Along the coast, on the road for Cienfuegos, Caleta Buena is a beautiful beach (admission is charged) with many snorkeling facilities. The most startling building in Cienfuegos is Palacio de Valle, a Spanish-Moroccan fantasy with a bar commanding a superb view over the bay. Trinidad, protected by UNESCO, has charming cobbled streets and pastel-colored colonial homes with painted wooden columns (barrotes) at the windows. This capital of the sugar and slave trades has been splendidly preserved thanks to its isolation since 1950. There are many restaurants (paladares) where you can eat and sleep. Sol Ananda, on the central Plaza Mayor, is the best both for atmosphere and food. In the evening, go to Casa de la Trova (or the more crowded Casa de 55 APRIL 2016

HAVANA Havana covers a lot of ground and includes many different neighborhoods, from modern Vedado to the historic center, La Habana Vieja. Ignore the potholes in the sidewalks but notice the repair work going on everywhere. Relax into the magic of the old city. In the important streets – calle Obispo, Mercaderes, de la Obra Pia – an enchanting mix of architecture surrounds you: Spanish buildings, colonial homes, pastel-colored houses and aged art deco pharmacies. The historic plazas are alluring: Plaza de la Catedral (San Cristóbal), Plaza de Armas (with the multicolored book market and Museo de la Ciudad), Plaza Vieja (don’t miss the Museo del Ron). At the end of calle Obispo is the central zone. Il Capitolio and Gran Teatro de La Habana (one of the most capacious theaters in the world where Sarah Bernhardt, Arthur Rubinstein and Andrés Segovia have been on stage) are being restored, but you can see them from the terrace of the historic Hotel Inglaterra, along with a beautiful view over the city and a good cocktail. Paseo del Prado is the most memorable boulevard – Moorish buildings, bronze lions, polychrome marble pavements and birds singing in their cages hung on the trees.

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MUSIC AND CINEMA CULTURAL FERMENT The capital is striking for its cultural buzz, with many international events taking place, such as the Festival Internacional del Nuevo cinema latinoamericano, the Festival Internacional Jazz Plaza, both in December, the Feria Internacional del Libro (February) e the Art Biennial. Young artists can be seen at the Pabellón de Cuba. Nearby is the Hotel Nacional, an art deco jewel that calls for a visit and a cocktail on the marvelous lawn facing the ocean, the Malecón esplanade. The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, in the contemporary Cuban art section, is a marvel for its stylistic variety, from the anthropomorphic insect gripping a wall by Roberto Fabelo, (is it Gregor Samsa from Kafka’s Metamorphosis?) to the ships laden with slaves by Manuel Mendive. Performances, events and the young people involved show that in Cuba the academies are truly artistic forges, and not stiff institutions. The National Museum of Decorative Arts in Vedado is an aristocratic residence from the end of the 1920’s, complete with furnishings and collections, an immersion in colonial life. It was the property of the Countess of Revilla de Camargo, a collector of Asian art, glass and crystal art nouveau, porcelain, English furniture and [QT^MZ <PM NIUQTa ÆML QV ! during the revolution, hiding all their precious objects in spaces behind the walls, in the hope that someday they could get them back.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS

la Musica) to dance son or salsa, drink rum and enjoy the sensual physicality of Cubans of every size and age when they move to music. Among the numerous musical genres, (rumba, mambo, danzòn, bolero, salsa etc.) son is probably the most popular. It is familiar to foreigners from \PM ITJ]U IVL ?QU ?MVLMZ[ ÅTU Buena Vista Social Club. Another genre is trova, two voices and a guitar, born in the eastern part of the country and deriving its name from itinerant musicians, trovadores. Moron is an unspoiled town with wonderful, honest and generous people. Use it as a base for visiting the Cayos. Reserve the city’s best Å[P LQVVMZ _Q\P [\MIUML TWJ[\MZ IVL crab, in Giraldo and Katia’s Hostal Alicia. To the north is an archipelago of 400 islands called Jardines del Rey. Once a haven for pirates and KTIVLM[\QVM [TI^M \ZINÅK Q\ PI[ JMI]tiful beaches both at Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo. It is a natural oa56 APRIL 2016

[Q[ _Q\P XIZZW\[ QO]IVI[ ÆIUQVOW[ white ibis, black hawks that feast on crabs, zunzùn (emerald-colored bee hummingbirds), herons, and dolphins. (An area of the sea is fenced off so visitors can swim with these mammals.) Santa Clara is remembered as the site of the last battle of Che Guevara, who put an end here to the dictatorship of General Batista. Remedios is known for a dramatic baroque altarpiece of gilded, carved wood in its cathedral, but also for the celebration of Las Parrandas, which ends on Christmas Eve with a gathering in the Plaza. Everyone comes together to eat, [QVO IVL LIVKM _I\KPQVO ÅZM_WZS[ all night and admiring the creative ÆWI\[ )VL ÅVITTa · +IZQJJMIV XIZILQ[M" )MZWOI^QW\I ÆQM[ NZWU 0I^IVI to Cayo Largo, which has the country’s loveliest beaches (Playa Sirena, Paraiso and Tortuga), one more beautiful than the next, with natural swimming pools and fresh coconuts to complete the picture.

PALADARES AND CASAS PARTICULARES FAMILY FLAVOR Thanks to recently relaxed rules, Cubans have obtained licenses, about half a million, to open small commercial enterprises, such as paladares, restaurants in private homes featuring local cuisine, and casas particulares, basically bed and breakfast in private houses. Many of these rooms, even if Spartan, are in picturesque colonial residences, and are often preferable to anonymous and modern, international-style hotels. Both paladares and casas particulares are subjected to government scrutiny, but offer an opportunity to be in contact with Cubans and their daily life. In the cities, the most famous paladares are in historic buildings and a favorite with gastronomes. In Havana, La Guarida (which was the set of a popular Cuban movie Strawberries and Chocolate) is in a faded early 20th-century building where laundry is hung WV \PM ÅZ[\ ÆWWZ IVL \PM ZM[\I]ZIV\ Q[ IJW^M <PM furniture is antique, the photos from another age, the food may be better and less expensive in other places – but La Guarida’s atmosphere is unique. Another spectacular paladar is Café Laurent, a penthouse with a terrace, a view over the city and excellent cuisine. Reserve for sunset. CAYO GUILLERMO, BANANA TREE AND ZUNZÙN (HUMMINGBIRD) PASEO DEL PRADO

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PLAYA SIRENA

VIÑALES | VICINO HOTEL LOS JAZSMINE | TEL. CARRETERA DE LA ERMITA KM. 2 | TEL: +53 (48) 8936100 RESTAURANT LA TERRAZA

58 APRIL 2016

HOTEL LOS JAZMINES | CARRETTERA A

VIÑALES KM. 25 | TEL. 48796205 |

WWW.HOTELESCUBANACAN.COM | DOUBLE 100 EUROS

FRUIT, CHICKEN, SEAFOOD THE ORGANIC ISLAND Any exploration of the Cuban countryside makes it evident that organic farming is the norm. Agriculture is as it once was, a matter of hoe and plow, sometimes pulled by oxen. Roads are often only one lane because the other is taken up by rice laid out to dry. Animals wander freely. Tropical fruit – pineapple, strawberries, mango, papaya – is succulent and sweet. The most typical dish is comida criolla, made with pork or chicken, fried or roasted, enlivened with bell peppers, onions, oregano and cumin, and served with the omnipresent rice and beans (moros y cristianos, black or red). Marinated suckling pig (lechos) is roasted or cooked on a spit. But the greatest attraction for foreigners is the fresh seafood: lobsters, enormous crabs, often served grilled (10-20 euros a portion). Shrimps (camarones) appear grilled, baked, steamed and boiled. A seafood dinner in casas particulares and paladares KW[\[ IJW]\ M]ZW[ 1\¼[ ^MZa +]JIV \W ÅVQ[P I UMIT _Q\P QKM KZMIU NZWU \PM [\I\M KPIQV Coppelia. In Havana it’s an institution, including the inevitable line. Best to forget about wine – it’s costly and inferior. Local beer, however, is excellent and comes in two types, Cristal, which is light, and Bucanero, with a higher degree of alcohol. *W\P KW[\ IJW]\ M]ZW[ +WKS\IQT[ IZM QZZM[Q[\QJTM J]\ I^WQL \PM QKM UILM _Q\P \IX _I\MZ It’s rare to end a day in Cuba without having had one or more, often accompanied by the live music so popular in bars. Some locales, famous, touristy and expensive, have become known for particular drinks. The daiquiri made the name of La Floridita, supposedly an Ernest Hemingway hangout; the mojito at Bodeguita del Medio is renowned. The Cuba libre owes its name to liberation from Spanish colonialism, but there’s also the Havana Especial, and the Ron Collins. Rum (ron), made from molasses, comes in various types: after 18 months it is Silver Dry (the base for cocktails), aged 3 years, carta blanca# IN\MZ aMIZ[ it becomes carta oro, and after 7, it is called añejo and is aged in oak barrels for at least 3 years. These are rums that are consumed straight.

DINNER WITH LOBSTER AND CRAB AT NATY AND LESTER

REMEDIOS HOSTAL BUEN VIAJE – LESTER MERCEDO Y NATY TORNA | CASA PARTICOLAR | CALLE ANDRES DEL RIO, 20 E/ ENRIQUE MALARET Y MAXIMO GOMEZ | TEL. +53 (42) 396560 | HOSTAL.BUENVIAJE@GMAIL.COM DOUBLE 29 EUROS BREAKFAST INCL. DINNER WITH FISH AND CRUSTACEANS 10 EURO

LA ESTANCIA - SR. NOLY Y AMARELYS| CASA PARTICOLAR | CALLE CAMILO CIENFUEGOS, 34 E/ AV. GENERAL CARRILLOY JOSÈ A PENA | TEL. 0053 (42) 395582 | NOLY64@GMAIL.COM

CAYO LARGO SOL CAYO LARGO MELIA | TEL. +53 (45) 248260 | WWW.SOLMELIACUBA.COM | PER PERSON, ALL MEALS INCLUDED 150 EUROS

59 APRIL 2016

THE STORY

Livia Montagnoli collaborated

FORAGING THE FOREST IS HER FRIEND 60 APRIL 2016

DANIEL TĂ&#x2013;CHTERLE PHOTO BY

Noris, the Forest Lady, is a master of foraging, the new trend in cooking and the culinary world. She found her pathways in Val Rendena, in Trentino, at the beginning of this century. It is also a story of green economy that in a short time, found its way around the world, from the USA to Australia. 61 MARZO 2016

PROFESSIONALS, IN EVERY SENSE. PASSION for: FOOD & BEVERAGE VINE & SPIRITS TECHNOLOGIES BAKERY PASTRY ICE CREAM COFFEE CHOCOLATE MACHINERY EQUIPMENT FURNITURE TABLEWARE INNOVATION DESIGN SERVICES PROFESSIONAL TRAINIG JOB OPPORTUNITIES E-COMMERCE WEB MARKETING

13-15 November 2016

LINGOTTO FIERE TURIN - ITALY

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er name is Eleonora Cunaccia and her friends call her Noris. But there are many who refer to her as the ‘Forest Lady’, the forests being those of the Val Rendena, in the Dolomite mountains of Spiazzo, in Trentino. For over ten years, Noris has turned her special relationship with nature into a unique profession. Each day she renews her bond, a rapport made up of work, silence, solitude and great joy. She moves among the secrets of the mountain, where at the food of a walnut tree, even in winter, underneath the snow, she KIV ÅVL [WUM \PZMIL[ WN KPQ^M[ ;PM [Ia[ that if you look around you, learning to listen to nature, you can bring home the best that the woods know how to offer. Among these treasures are rose hips, yarrow, wild fennel, mallow, linden blossoms (the serenity plant), and common nettles, a concentrate of iron and vitamins. “Nature needs time and different types of manual dexterity. It reveals itself only to those who approach with grace and respect, without greed. It’s enough to ask for what one needs,” she says. The search can become ritual and “You can discover the joy of nourishment.” 7VKM \PMZM _I[ I ÅVM ZM[\I]ZIV\ \PI\ 6WZQ[ managed with her brother Giovanni in Spiazzo, the town where both were born. <PMV \PQVO[ JMKIUM LQNÅK]T\ IVL \PMa PIL to shift gear. Today Noris is one of Italy’s best known foragers for wild herbs, berries and mushrooms. She understands everything edible that her mountains offer. As an expert in foraging, the term for a phenomenon that began in the 1960s and that has become a culinary trend, she seeks for the dimension that lets natural resources nourish her body and soul. Noris doesn’t like to speak of trends and movements. Instead, she reminds us that hers is a profession of commitment, built up slowly. She continues to fear, with reverential respect, this majestic force that takes and gives. “I am very afraid of nature,” she revealed sincerely. “I don’t know everything, and I always have to be certain what I am bringing home. I have a great store of experiences with my territory, accumulated over time. But I wish ev-

eryone could discover how much life is in the nature that surrounds us, could learn to recognize a few herbs or a wild fruit, could become aware of even ten little remedies that our grandmothers knew well – how much satisfaction they _W]TL ÅVL -IKP TQ\\TM ^QK\WZa MIKP LQ[covery takes on a different value.” Far from those who trumpet trends IVL ÅTT \PMQZ UW]\P[ _Q\P XPQTW[WXPQM[ of life that sound like warnings for the elite, Noris wants to contribute to an ethical cause that calls for everyone to work for a better future. But she does it with the simplicity that accompanies her every gesture, without proclamations or life lessons. “My work is ethical because I bend my back, I labor, I earn my bread, I respect and honor nature every day. Nature knows how to be generous, but only if you know how to develop a friendship that takes into account her enormous resources without abusing them.” The point is in the difference 63 APRIL 2016

FOTOTECA TRENTINO SVILUPPO S.P.A.

THE STORY

FORAGING,

FOTOTECA TRENTINO SVILUPPO S.P.A.

FOOD AND ECOLOGY

between thoughtful consumption and the untrammeled consumption that afÆQK\[ W]Z MI\QVO PIJQ\[ ¹?M PI^M \W [MM nature as a pantry to carefully protect, and not as shelves to loot.” Thirteen years ago, when this all began, she worried that her choice would prove to be too extreme. Today, Primitivizia goods (the brand name she uses to package her products - www.primitivizia.it) are sought after even abroad. “The United States imports almost all our production of Mugolio – or Pine *]L +WVM ;aZ]X ?M [MVL W]Z _QTL cherries to Australia.” Noris works closely with her brother Giovanni. “In our workshop, he manages the alchemy part: he cleans, processes, extracts \PM NWZM[\ ÆI^WZ º <PMa \]ZV W]\ IJW]\ twenty products, ranging from essenc-

es of chives or dandelions to rose hip ketchup and the herb known as maidenstears. Now Noris has undertaken a new project, and for the last few years she has tried to domesticate some wild mountainous plants. In four extreme herb gardens she grows radicchio dell’orso, or Alpine sow-thistle, and is beginning to get results. “It’s a hunter’s herb, very famous in our valleys and today protected like edelweiss. In Friuli it is a Slow Food Presidio.” If she has a secret, it’s this. “Become a plant yourself. Plants have no voice. Like babies, they communicate only if you know how to interpret them. So then you have to commit yourself to slow domestica\QWV º ?Q\PW]\ I[ \PM .WZM[\ 4ILa M`plains, ever going against nature. 64 APRIL 2016

The modern-day trend that involves important young chefs around the world and various professional gatherers, uses the term foraging to mean the collecting of wild, spontaneous herbs and fruit in the woods for use in the kitchen. In this sense, it is a kind of return to hunter-gatherer cultures in an ancestral era before true agricultural models were instituted. But herb gatherers in Italy and elsewhere made up a hard core of food providers for towns and cities until the 1960s, when the post-war boom gave birth to industrial IOZQK]T\]ZM IVL \PM ÅZ[\ supermarkets. In ecology and ethology, foraging means the search for wild food resources and above all, the study of animals and their capacity to feed themselves and reproduce in nature. Foraging theory is a branch of behavioral ecology that studies the manner QV _PQKP IVQUIT[ ÅVL food in response to the environment in which they live and the ways they maximize their energy and minimize the time spent. The contemporary foraging trend, instead, is essentially based on the old science of studying the use of edible wild plants in times of famine or other emergencies WWW.WOOD-ING.ORG | FORAGE.BERKELEY.EDU | THEURBANEFORAGER. BLOGSPOT.IT

Winter Foraging

DAVE CHANG | MOMOFUKU | MOMOFUKU SSÄM BAR | NEW YORK (USA) | MOMOFUKU.COM

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS

BEN SHEWRY | ATTICA | MELBOURNE | AUSTRALIA | WWW.ATTICA.COM.AU

BY NORBERT NIEDERKOFLER VEGETABLES

1 YELLOW TURNIP, 1 BEET, 1 CELERY ROOT, 1 CHIOGGIA BEET, 8 COLORED BABY CARROTS, 12 YELLOW NUTSEDGE AMARANTH WAFERS

200 G AMARANTH, 1 LITER WATER, 1 LITER VEGETABLE OIL

MASCARPONE (450 ML FRESH CREAM, 20 G POWDERED MILK, 100 G FRESH WHOLE MILK, 5 G CITRIC ACID)

Slice the vegetables into thin rounds, using a mandoline. Place the vegetables in separate vacuum bags, with their juices. Cook in steam oven, 8 minutes at 90°C (195°F). Chill in iced water. Prepare the amaranth wafers. Cover the amaranth with cold water, bring to a boil and cook until liquid is completely evaporated. Spread on a silicone baking mat and dry in a 70°C oven (160°F) for one hour. Then fry at 170°C (340°F).

PUMPKIN SEED OIL

Mascarpone: heat cream and milk to 70°C (160°F). Add powders. Leave to strain through gauze in refrigerator for 48 hours. Arrange on dish, imaginatively.

CARROT GREENS

65 APRIL 2016

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2400 producers 22000 wines 421 Tre Bicchieri 80 Tre Bicchieri verdi

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THE STORY

Curds of herbs, herring milk, egg BY PIERGIORGIO PARINI FOR THE CURDS 100 G BORAGE

FOR THE SMOKED HERRING MILK 1 SMOKED HERRING

TO COMPLETE THE DISH

100 G NETTLES

150 G MILK

SORREL

AROMATIC HERBS

Leave the herring in the cold milk for two VQOP\[ <PMV ÅT\MZ \PM UQTS QV\W I [UITT XIV FOR THE EGG 2 EGG YOLKS

FLOWERS

100 G CREAM

;I]\u \PM PMZJ K]ZL[ ?IZU \PM PMZZQVO UQTS and with an immersion blender, emulsify the surface to obtain a foam like that on a cappuccino. (A little soya lecithin previously added to the liquid can help.) In a deep plate, arrange the browned curds, dampen the surface with a little creamy egg mixture, arrange the aromatic herbs on top and complete with the whipped herring milk.

WILD HERBS

Cook the wild herbs, borage and nettles in salted water. Cool and drain. Puree in a blender IVL [\ZIQV \W WJ\IQV I ÅVM X]TX ;QUUMZ \PM puree over low heat until it begins to coagulate like ricotta. Remove from heat and transfer to a mould lined with paper towel. Cool at room temperature, taste for salt and sprinkle the top with fresh chopped herbs.

LEMON ZEST AND MACE

PARMIGIANO REGGIANO SALT, PEPPER, SOYA LECITHIN

Boil the cream with the mace, pour the mixture onto the egg yolks and mix with Parmigiano. Replace on low heat and cook like I K][\IZL :MUW^M NZWU PMI\ ILR][\ ÆI^WZ and keep warm.

67 APRIL 2016

MARJORAM

DILL CHERVIL

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

by Maurizio Bertera

The challenge coming from Giancarlo Perbellini in his Verona Casa: cook only with a small number of meticulously chosen ingredients, those that the season and the farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets offer. Each dish, then, has its logic and its coherence

Perbellini

BEGIN WITH THE MARKET AND THE SEASONS

69 APRIL 2016

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

THE MATHEMATICS OF INGREDIENTS His restaurant, Casa Perbellini, is a true home, a few steps from the splendid Romanesque basilica of San Zeno, facing one of Verona’s great piazzas. A small door opens into an entry with a counter and a table. Immediately to the side is a room with about thirty places, divided in two. The larger one is part of the kitchen, totally open, without even a separating window between. The smaller one is more private, yet communicates with the rest of the space. “Casa Perbellini emerged from my desire to change my life and to bring the cook, and I underline that word, to center stage. There are no mysteries here,” Giancarlo said. The small brigade in the front of the house, with Barbara Manoni in charge, and the larger one in the kitchen, led by sous chef Giacomo Sacchetto, work in sync, without the slightest tension. The result is satisfying: the two dishes of “a Mezzogiorno” (At Noon) are perfect for a gourmet’s lunch break at 50 euros. The sequence of plates in “Assaggi” (Tastes) for 135 euros delights the palate with Perbellini classics alongside VM_ WNNMZQVO[ <PM \PQZL XZQ` Å`M ¹KPQ sceglie…prova” (choose and try) has the client select two out of four possible ingredients, and the kitchen then prepares two dishes (110 euros) that feature those ingredients. It seems like a Master Chef test, but the idea is simply pure math. “We put together seasonality, good shopping in the morning since we don’t have a cold storage zone or a freezer, the ability to surprise our guests and the concept of home.” Another interesting meal costs M]ZW[" \PM ¹>MTWKMº XZQ` Å`M 9]QKS offered between 19 and 20.45, allows clients to sample the maestro Veronese’s classic dishes. The restaurant’s wine cellar, given Perbellini’s exquisite taste, is up to the kitchen’s standards, and is both intelligent and deep, with 250 labels (“That we like, obviously,” the chef underlines). CASA PERBELLINI | P.ZZA SAN ZENO, 16 | VERONA TEL. 045 8780860 | WWW.CASAPERBELLINI.COM

70 APRIL 2016

S. SERRANI/F. BRAMBILLA PHOTO

SUSHI OF PASTA AND RED SHRIMP WITH NORI ALGAE PESTO INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS 40 MEZZE MANICHE (LARGE, SHORT PASTA) 20 RED SHRIMP 1 BURRATA, CUT INTO 24 PIECES

200 G FISH BROTH 5 PARSLEY STEMS

FOR THE NORI ALGAE PESTO: 20 G ALGAE NORI

PREPARATION For the nori algae pesto: work all the ingredients with a mortar and pestle and keep cool. For the wasabi mayonnaise: combine the two ingredients until they are well-blended. Clean the shrimp, removing the shell but keeping the tail on. Slice in half length-wise and season with salt, olive oil and lemon. 0MI\ \WOM\PMZ OMV\Ta Å[P JZW\P OIZTQK KPQTQ XMXXMZ JI[QT IVL parsley. +WWS \PM XI[\I QV [IT\ML _I\MZ LZIQV _PQTM [\QTT IT LMV\M IVL ÅVQ[P KWWSQVO QV \PM Å[P JZW\P [\QZZQVO QV M`\ZI ^QZOQV WQT I\ \PM MVL Assembly: stuff each mezza manica with half a shrimp. Arrange WV XTI\M IVL LZQbbTM _Q\P Å[P JZW\P )LL KP]VS[ WN J]ZZI\I IJW]\ 6 per portion), drops of wasabi mayonnaise and algae pesto. Decorate with fried algae.

40 G PINE NUTS 10 G VINEGAR 50 G GARLIC-SCENTED OLIVE OIL

120 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

5 BASIL STEMS

FOR THE WASABI MAYONNAISE:

1 CLOVE GARLIC

100 G MAYONNAISE

CHILI PEPPER, LEMON, FRIED ALGAE, EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, SALT

20 G WASABI PASTE

71 APRIL 2016

S. SERRANI/F. BRAMBILLA

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

RAVIOLI WITH MILK, LEEKS, BLACK TRUFFLE AND SEA URCHINS

PHOTO

INGREDIENTS FOR 6 SERVINGS 2 LEEKS SEA URCHINS GRATED BLACK TRUFFLES BUTTER EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SALT

FOR THE MILK FILLING 1LITER WHOLE MILK ½ LITER HEAVY CREAM 3 G CITRIC ACID FOR THE PASTA 400 G MANITOBA FLOUR 100 G SEMOLINA 200 G WHOLE EGGS 50 G YOLKS

PREPARATION .WZ \PM UQTS ÅTTQVO" *ZQVO \PM UQTS IVL cream to a boil, add citric acid and simmer together for 15 minutes until it curdles. Remove from heat and cool for 20 minutes. ;\ZIQV ][QVO ÅVM UM[P [\ZIQVMZ +PQTT IVL taste for salt. Prepare the pasta working all ingredients together until smooth. Put aside to rest, then roll out very thin sheets. Shape into ravioli IVL [\]NN _Q\P UQTS ÅTTQVO Chop leeks and sauté in a pan with a drop of oil, a teaspoon of butter and a dash of salt. Cut the urchins in half with scissors and extract the pulp with a spoon. Boil the ravioli in abundant salt water. Drain and dress with butter. Assembly: place sautéed leeks in the center of each plate, add buttered ravioli. On each raviolo place 2 teaspoons of sea urchin and I OMVMZW][ LWTTWX WN OZI\ML JTIKS \Z]NÆM

72 APRIL 2016

RICETTE DEI GRANDI CUOCHI

LAMB SADDLE, PURĂ&#x2030;ED PEAS, MORELS AND EUCALYPTUS AROMA INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS TWO SADDLES OF BABY LAMB 100 G FRESH MORELS 1 BOX FRESH PEA SPROUTS LAMB STOCK NEUTRAL VEAL DEMI-GLACE BUTTER EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL FLEUR DE SEL SALT AND PEPPER

FOR THE PEA PURĂ&#x2030;E 700 G FRESH SHELLED PEAS 20 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SALT FOR THE EUCALYPTUS OIL 10 FRESH EUCALYPTUS LEAVES

PHOTO

S. SERRANI/F. BRAMBILLA

80 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

PREPARATION Clean the lamb saddles, leaving the ribs _MTT \ZQUUML IVL \PM Ă&#x2026;TTM\ IVL TWQV XIZ\ trimmed, held together by the bone. Reserve the discards and prepare a classic lamb stock. Simmer the peas (keep some aside) for a minute in salt water. Strain, purĂŠe in a blender with 150 g of their own cooking water, a pinch of salt and 20 g of extra-virgin olive oil until desired density is reached. Simmer the reserved whole peas in salted water, cool and remove skins. Keep aside for garnish. For the eucalyptus oil: Place fresh eucalyptus leaves and extra-virgin olive oil together in a vacuum bag, and leave in a bain-marie infu[QWV I\ Â&#x2C6;+ Â&#x2C6;+ NWZ LIa[ Prepare sauce blending the lamb stock with an equal amount of demi-glace.

*ZW_V \PM ZQJ[ IVL \PM Ă&#x2026;TTM\ TWQV XIZ\ WN the lamb, but keep meat pink. Leave to rest. *ZQMĂ&#x2020;a \W[[ \PM NZM[P UWZMT[ QV I XIV _Q\P olive oil and butter. On a serving dish, arrange the warm pureed peas, a few whole peas (seasoned with olive oil, salt and pepper) and 4 or 5 pieces of fresh morels. Cut the lamb into pieces (2 or 3 ribs together) and the cutlets separately (one for each set of ribs, as in the photograph). ArZIVOM \PM K]\TM\ _Q\P Q\[ Ă&#x2026;TTM\ IVL ZQJ[ ;MI[WV _Q\P TIUJ [I]KM ;MI[WV \PM UMI\ _Q\P Ă&#x2020;ISM[ WN Ă&#x2020;M]Z LM [MT IVL I LZQbbTM WN M]KITaX\][ WQT Decorate with fresh pea sprouts.

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

SALTED CHOCOLATE, HAZELNUTS AND COGNAC INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS CHOCOLATE LEAVES FOR THE FAKE HAZELNUT TORRONE 75 G ITALIAN MERINGUES 100 G HAZELNUT PASTE 50 G WHIPPED CREAM (NO SUGAR) 20 G CARAMELIZED HAZELNUTS FOR THE HAZELNUT CRISP 50 G WAFER STICKS 25 G HAZELNUT POWDER 20 G TOASTED HAZELNUTS

PREPARATION For the fake hazelnut torrone, mix Italian meringues with hazelnut paste, add whipped cream, then caramelized hazelnuts coarsely chopped. Spread the mixture on silpat to a LMX\P WN KU IVL NZMMbM JM[\ QV I ÆI[P freezer). For the hazelnut crisp, melt the milk chocolate. Combine in a bowl crumbled wafer sticks, hazelnut powder, Maldon salt and toasted hazelnuts, chopped coarsely. Combine the caramelized hazelnuts with melted chocolate and add vegetable oil. Add the dry ingredients to the creamy mixture and stir well. Spread unevenly on silpat and freeze in ÆI[P NZMMbMZ WZ WZLQVIZa NZMMbMZ

For the cognac gelatin: heat the cognac in a pan, but do not evaporate. Add agar agar, bring to boil, then pour liquid into silicone molds and cool in refrigerator. For the chocolate sauce, boil together water, heavy cream, sugar and cocoa powder, stirring constantly. Strain and cool. Assembly: place three little cognac jellies on bottom of plate. On top, place some irregular pieces of fake torrone, pieces of salted chocolate mixture and complete with drops of chocolate sauce. Garnish with chocolate leaves.

30 G CARAMELIZED HAZELNUTS 50 G 41% MILK CHOCOLATE S. SERRANI/F. BRAMBILLA

10 G VEGETABLE OIL 12 G MALDON-TYPE SALT FOR THE COGNAC GELATIN 100 G COGNAC

PHOTO

.5 G AGAR AGAR CHOCOLATE SAUCE 40 G WATER 55 G HEAVY CREAM 45 G SUGAR 15 G POWDERED COCOA

74 APRIL 2016

PAIRINGS

SUSHI OF PASTA AND RED SHRIMP

RAVIOLI WITH MILK, LEEKS,

WEHLENER SONNENUHR AUSLESE 2013 MARKUS MOLITOR BERNKASTEL-WEHLEN | MOSELLA (GERMANIA) | MARKUSMOLITOR.COM

SOAVE CL. LA ROCCA 2013 LEONILDO PIEROPAN SOAVE (VR) | WWW.PIEROPAN.IT

Markus Molitor is one of the masters or Riesling, the iconic wine of the Moselle. This wonderfully elegant Auslese goes well with our shrimp antipasto. Besides typical aromatic qualities and freshness, it has perfect equilibrium despite its fundamental acidity.

For the pasta course, we play a home game. This 2013 soave from Pieropan won Due Bicchieri in the Vini d’Italia 2016 guide. Among the labels of this Veneto maison, it is the fruitiest, but maintains the same tension and length as its more important brother, Calvarino, a Tre Bicchieri winner.

LAMB SADDLE, PURÉED PEAS,

SALTED CHOCOLATE, HAZELNUTS AND COGNAC

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010 POGGIO DI SOTTO MONTALCINO (SI) | WWW.POGGIODISOTTO.COM

MOSCATO D’ASTI PIASA SAN MAURIZIO 2014 FORTETO DELLA LUJA LOAZZOLO (AT) | WWW.FORTETODELLALUJA.IT

An elegant meat main course that deserves a red that is both elegant and powerful. This Brunello vintage deservedly won a Tre Bicchieri award in Vini d’Italia 2016. Ethereal and fragrant, it is supported by a complex aromatic array.

For a very Piedmontese dish, this Forteto della Luja is a winning choice. A late-harvest Moscato, it is rich and creamy on the palate. Sumptuous and sweet, it is also supported by a fragrant acidic vein. An echo of vanilla and white chocolate lends itself to an M`KMTTMV\ ÅVQ[P

WITH NORI ALGAE PESTO

BLACK TRUFFLE AND SEA URCHINS

MORELS AND EUCALYPTUS AROMA

75 APRIL 2016

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