Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food August 2020 by Gambero Rosso

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

All you need to know about Mount Etna WINE FAIR PREVIEW

CHEF&RECIPES: LIPPI

year 22 - number 141 - july-august 2020 - gamberorosso.it

SOMMARIO WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

All you need to know about Mount Etna WINE FAIR PREVIEW

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Editorial

4

News

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Wine of the Month

9

Seasonal Cocktail

10 

My Import & My Export

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Top Italian Restaurants: Paris

v18 

Etna, mythical territory of wine. Here’s how it happened

32 

Wine Fair Preview

60

Recipes: Giorgia Goggi

CHEF&RECIPES: LIPPI

year 22 - number 141 - july-august 2020 - gamberorosso.it

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Beautiful and fragile: we are Mt Etna Summer 2020 for us is like a mountain that can’t stop smoking: Mt Etna. The 3,329-meter elevation volcano, completely exposed to the 4 cardinal points, is like a coloured spaceship that’s been catapulted into a semidesert terrain, and which changes constantly, curve after curve, from side to side. A northern climate and yet we are in Sicily, almost at the same latitude as Africa, which hosts centuries-old alberello vineyards overlooking the sea, and what a sea! We only found that intense and vibrant blue a couple of times: looking down a promontory in Greece, or in South America, at Lake Sarmiento de Gamboa, at high altitude overlooking the Torres del Paine, in the most beautiful part of Chile. This year, unable to move from national borders, many Italians have chosen Sicily as their destination. Walking through the bars of Rome or Milan, between masks and social distancing, you only hear about its beauty, its warmth, the empathy of people, the feeling that Sicily is capable of giving. Tasting an aubergine, biting into an arancino, a pistachio and talking to a Sicilian who often, mysteriously, really seems to understand what you’re feeling even if you’ve never met before. Let’s face it, in the world of wine there are no other romantic and evocative territories like Etna, with its wild and raw beauty, its villages frozen in time, that handed down aspect that so damn sexy. Etna gives you no way out, it exudes danger and a sense of attraction, uncertainty and energy. All sensations that we are experiencing strongly these days. During the lockdown, Etna was a fixed idea, we tasted many old vintages and a rich “greatest hits” that you’ll find reading these pages. The beauty in the glass is woven from the details, from that dark and graceful profile, a delicate but very intense presence that grows in contact with the air. Etna wines are unpredictable, even fragile: most reds give their best in the first 10 years of life. Rosés are an invitation to slow and silent beauty, to be sipped like a high altitude tea. The whites, on the other hand, take you to the sea to smell the scent of the rocks. As soon as it was possible to cross the regional borders, we returned to the volcano, falling in love with abandoned houses from the 1800s with old palmento cellars where the grapes were pressed and real, authentic characters were created. We collected wines and opinions from small emerging producers, think Ayunta, Bentivegna or SRC, strong characters like Frank Cornelissen, a Belgian who is one with the volcano like few others are, to solid and solitary mountain men like Federico Curtaz, or Diego Cusumano, who is in love with a woman without makeup with a book and cigarette in hand. And in our portrait we point out all the truest must-do experiences, between a granita and a glimpse that opens suddenly after a curve. Bon voyage.

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

NEWS

EATING BY THE SEA IN SICILY. POP UPS FOR THE SUMMER ON THE BEACH 1 Locanda Perbellini al Mare, Bovo Marina (AG) 2 Marzapane da Oceanomare, San Leone (AG) 3 UovodiseppiaMare, Licata (AG) 4 Caro Melo, Donnalucata (RG) 5 Ammare, Sampieri (RG) 6 Molo di Sant’Erasmo, Palermo August in Sicily, this year, also means running into some nice gastronomic surprises that last through summer – in the case of both trendy pop ups that arrive directly on the beach – or an experience that takes its first steps in the summer and that then solidifies throughout the year, here is a map of the must visit places in between swimming in the beautiful Sicilian sea.

ETNA DOC. The Consortium responds to the crisis: less wine for 2020. But also a stop to new planting systems until 2024. Benanti: “June sales are recovering” HLess wine in the 2020 vintage and halt of new system plants for three years. The Etna Doc Wine Consortium introduces, now officially and operationally, some incisive measures to reduce the risk of market imbalances that could reverberate on producers, on the Doc and on the territory. CUT RETURNS. In fact, the shareholders’ meeting approved the proposal made by the board of directors chaired by Antonio Benanti to reduce the yield of the Etna Doc Rosso and Rosso Riserva typology from 90 to 70 quintals per hectare, and only for 2020, eliminating the possibility of any overshoots within 20% of production. An extraordinary measure, as explained by director Maurizio Lunetta, in consideration of the market trend from March to today, due to the health and economic crisis. After all, the Etna Rosso typology repre-

sents just over 60% of the total Etna Doc claimed in 2019 and is therefore the most important from a quantity point of view. INSTALLATIONS. Producers, gathered at the Nicosia company in Trecastagni, have also approved another production management measure, less connected to the Covid-19 pandemic. This is the temporary suspension of registrations of new vineyard areas in Etna Doc (new plants or re-grafts) for a period of three years: from August 1, 2021 to July 31, 2024, with some derogations on the projects already presented by OCM calls and the authorizations obtained from the national reserve for new plant systems. The suspension will not concern the replanting and early replanting of vines already suitable for producing Doc Etna. “We want to jump start for the next few years” adds Lunetta “a virtuous pro-

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

cess that manage the growth of the offer in relation to the evolution of demand”. NEW DISCIPLINARY. The assembly also approved the proposal to change the production disciplinary. Among the novelties: the chance of producing spumante wine only with classic method, the introduction of a minimum number of plants per hectare and greater freedom of choice of bottle stoppers. The aim is to limit the possibilities of interpretation of some parts of the current disciplinary, to further guarantee the quality and identity of the Etna wines. “They’re all important proposals, aimed at strengthening and protecting the denomination and governing its growth” commented President Benanti, who invited us to look forward with confidence, also considering the “net recovery of market requests starting from the month on June.”

NEWS

PHOTO NEWS

CITRUS ARCHIVE. A PHOTOGRAPHIC PROJECT REDISCOVERS THE LEMON-HOUSES OF ITALY

It all started with the curiosity to discover the history of a product that is decidedly popular in Italy and characteristic of Mediterranean landscapes, such as citrus. And from a text, a 17th-century treatise “Hesperides,” compiled by Giovanni Battista Ferrari with the encyclopedic spirit of the time, to investigate the universe of citrus fruits and their varieties. Several centuries later, the English photographer Sophia Massarella retraced the footsteps of Ferrari, with a photographic project shared online (on a dedicated Instagram profile) entitled Citrus Archive. A journey through lemon and citrus groves that touches Italy closely, since the photographer’s mission – work in progress from the first field explorations started a year ago – is to rediscover and tell the story and the cultivation techniques of small companies that hand down the cultivation of lemons (and other citrus) in Italy from North to South, to testify, with photos and words, the incredible agricultural biodiversity of the country.

photo: www.instagram.com/citrus_archive/

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

NEWS

EVENTS. LUGANA DOC CONSORTIUM CELEBRATES ITS 30TH ANNIVERSARY history. For #Luganalovers, and the general public, save the date for September 18th in Milan, with the expected annual tasting “Lugana, Timeless harmonies,” together with over 50 wineries. The virtual journey of the Consortium will also include testimonies of those who contributed to the birth and growth of the organisation, with exclusive interviews with past presidents and the current President, Ettore Nicoletto. Fans will learn about the 5 municipalities and the 5 types of Doc, also thanks to the contribution of domestic and international experts. The Garda white wine will also be paired to local products and dishes. For those wishing to follow the 30 insights can connect to the social channels of the Consortium (Facebook @consorzioluganadoc, Instagram @ConsorzioLugana, Linkedin Consorzio di Tutela Lugana DOC).

Celebrations began on Friday, July 10 with a Facebook live stream, but it will be an eventful summer celebrating the thirtieth anniversary of the Lugana Doc Consortium. Precisely on July 10th 1990, the association of producers was born in Sirmione. In three decades it has managed to establish itself and to affirm its Dop wine as one of the most interesting phenomena of the Italian wine scene. The organizers have decided to set up a sort of international anniversary party, which will culminate on Tuesday, September 22 in an event (on invitation only) dedicated to the old vintages, hosted in Sirmione, the native town of the PDO, in collaboration with the Consortium of hoteliers and restaurateurs of Sirmione. In the 70 days of celebrations, the Consortium will be the protagonist on social mdia and live thanks to a widespread story that in 30 “shorts” will retrace the salient stages of its

BAROLO. FIRST SEMESTER SALES AT +3% AND BULK VALUE AT –15% AS OPPOSED TO 2019

QUEEN ELIZABETH IS PRODUCING HER OWN GIN

The first half of 2020 was overall positive for Barolo Docg sales. The Piedmontese denomination, which chose at the meeting to not apply the 10% harvest reserve measure proposed by the board of directors, in the period January-June 2020 marked an increase of 3% compared to the same period of 2019 (see table). Not the same for the bulk wine figures, which register values between 5.5 euros and 6 euros per litre, with a drop of about 15/17% compared to the same period of a year ago, the Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani Protection Consortium announces: “A value in line with the post-pandemic situation of many other prestigious denominations”. Finally, regarding the stocks, considering the mandatory aging period required by the disciplinary, appear “in line with the average of the last few years.”

It was well known that She was a gin enthusiast, but that at 94 She began to produce it Herself was something difficult to predict. Queen Elizabeth II of England has just launched Her juniper distilled liquor, made with 12 botanicals from the Buckingham Palace garden, from which it takes its name. The ingredients, all collected by hand (as stated on the label) include fragrant verbena, hawthorn berries, laurel and mulberries. The price is affordable: £40 a bottle, which can be purchased from July 23rd at the Royal Collection Trust on online stores, with delivery only in the United Kingdom. The proceeds from sales will go to finance the care and conservation of the Royal Collection: a way to perhaps heal, after Covid, the loss of at least thirty million pounds from the collection. For sure Her Majesty never gives up Her Dubonnet (a gin and vermouth drink) before lunch. A long life elixir?

BAROLO. BOTTLING COMPARISON 2019/20 – 1ST SEMESTER 2019

2020

VARIATION

bottles

45.205

6.027.338

46.770

6.236.057

208.669

Source: Protection Consortium for Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. San Paolo Riserva 2016 PIEVALTA Frazione Monteschiavo, 18, 60030 Maiolati Spontini AN www.pievalta.it Average retail price: 17 euros

Since 2003, Pievalta has never wavered in its rigorous application of agronomic practices entirelybased on biodynamics and today it’s a touchstone of the Verdicchio area. Its 29 hectares of vineyards are primarily Jesi, with smaller amounts of Malvasia, Trebbiano and Montepulciano. Last year saw the purchase of a vineyard adjacent to its San Paolo cru, an extremely suitable site in the municipality of the same name and from which the company obtains the grapes for its celebrated Riserva. Selections are lean and gastronomic, faithfully expressing the character of the different parcels. Last month we had the chance to taste again the 2016 Riserva which is simply singing at this time. The wine it’s wonderfully rocky both in terms of its mineral aromatic profile and its vigor on the palate. We love that lemonish character which is perfectly combined with fresh hints of anice, almond and sage. Flavors are well articulated, its many aromatic sensations, all perfectly in line with the cultivar’s classic profile, are followed by a mouth of overwhelming dynamism, driven by a well-defined, saline acid vigor that is both spontaneous and deep. It’s austere and very classy, it displays a superb vitality and such a vibrant, deep and clean finish. And what a sapid traction! Try it with a super fresh salt-baked red mullet and you’re going to dream with open eyes.

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

SPIRITS

SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL SEASONAL

by byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli

PUNTA PALASCIA Diego Melorio Quanto Basta - Lecce 4,5 cl white grappa made with Moscato grapes - 3 cl Essentiae del Salento, Cornula liqueur 3 cl sweet cornetto pepper syrup, acidified - 5 cl soda from Pachineat pachino tomato water 1 dash Essentiae del Salento, Focumeu liqueur

Glass: Old Fashioned Technique: Shake and Strain

hapo d’Otranto or Punta Palascìa, considered the divider between the Adriatic and Ionian Sea, is also the easternmost point of Italy, where the sun rises first over the peninsula. And it’s precisely at dawn that the sun illuminates his native and wonderful Salento. Diego dedicates this beverage to Salento, finding inspiration in the most representative products of his land and in their seasonality. The grappa – which acts as an alcoholic shoulder – is distilled from Apulian moscato grapes, the Cornula liqueur is obtained from the maceration of carob berries, the cornetto sweet pepper, a typical ingredient of Salento cuisine, becomes an acidified syrup, while the tomato water for the soda is borrowed from Sicily. The explosive final touch is given by the Focumeo liqueur (with habanero pepper, saffron and bitter almond). All shaken, poured over an ice cube and decorated with a basil leaf.

BARTENDER: Diego Melorio, Apulian through and through, was born in Lecce in 1977. After high school he immediately began working to feed his great passion: skateboarding. He climbed the ranks from the bottom, as a dishwasher in a friend’s restaurant, then moved on to the kitchen and finally to the front of the house. After a few years he accidentally landed behind a counter, tapping beer and washing glasses in a live music club. He then began a self-taught study period to become a real bartender, alternating summer and winter seasons between Otranto and Lecce. The meeting with Andrea Carlucci was crucial: in 2013 they opened Quanto Basta in Lecce together and, in 2017, with other partners, Cubi a Maglie. They are unstoppable...

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

NEWS

MY IMPORT A true Italian wine connoisseur in Dusseldorf, Michelangelo Saitta Michelangelo Saitta runs one of the best wine collections in Europe. Twenty years ago he opened Saittavini which is an enoteca and a restaurant, complete with a private dining room for patrons who wish to dine directly in the wine cellar. Over 1,000 selected bottles, with Tuscany, Piedmont, Veneto and South Tyrol as major players, as well as a valid selection of Champagne, Riesling, Burgundy and Bordeaux wines, and other international references. He directly imports many Italian cult labels.

1 How is the recovery in Germany going? We are working well, we have implemented distancing inside the venue, we are lucky because we have large terraces, business goes well, both with Saittavini and with Prinzinger, the place that my son manages and that’s even doing better. Of course, we miss the customers who used to come for their big vacation, the big hotels who sent us clientele, today they struggle with an occupancy rate of 15%. Here in Dusseldorf for example, the Grand Hyatt has laid off 130 employees out of about 200. We received great and speedy support from the government, which facilitated things a lot, they expanded our tax payment installments and granted loans to pay back taxes at really low rates that we have to repay over a period of 7 years, without paying anything in the first two years. Plus VAT was sharply slashed, on food it dropped from 19% to 5%, on wines from 19% to 16%. My fellow restaurateurs have also recovered well.

2 How is the import and sale of wines doing? What’s changed? We significantly expanded the cellar, for import we work a lot with Nino Consiglio and many important brands like Gaja, Tasca d’Almerita, Le Pupille, Conterno Fantino. I added other Monfortino labels, also Venica, and curiously on the German market Etna is still struggling, we have tried hard but drinkers here still like softer and juicier wines, a more filigree product like Etna is struggling to take off. But I remember well how years ago even here Barolo was struggling and then look what happened. In general, I increased old Bordeaux and Burgundy to have an even more international style.

3 How did you reinvent yourself during the lockdown? Is it true that in discouraging moments we always take refuge in red wine? Well, yes, we too mostly sold red wines. We got on the phone with our customers. We were closed for 11 weeks, from March 19th to May 11th, but we were also able to sell very important wines, complete verticals of Masseto from 1989 to 2016, many important wines of Germany and Austria, we had good reserves and we were lucky, playing on vintages usually not on the market. Good products always sell.

4 Future plans? We have a project that is due shortly, a new homepage just for wine sales. Then we remodeled the kitchen and added a new cellar. I’m a bit worried about the winter, but luckily we have plenty of space and we will be able to manage two serving shifts. I’m sure the wine sales will proceed very well, we have to give it our all with retail sales, provide our customers with professional service and competence, therefore exclusive products, rarities, little gems. You have to put your head, new ideas, and all your energy into it. And a little bit of good old optimism.  Jermann | Loc. Ruttars | Dolegna del Collio (GO) | www.jermann.it

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

NEWS

MY EXPORT Stefano Ricagno – Cuvage 1 What is the percentage of exports out of the company total? The percentage is 83% and the main foreign reference markets are the Russian Federation, Greece, Switzerland, South Korea.

2 Where are sales better and where are they worse? Russia is a market with a great tradition, where great quality sparkling wines from all over the world are appreciated. As Cuvage we can say we are proud to contribute to representing Italian sparkling wines with Asti DOCG in the lead in this large market. The United Kingdom is the big missing piece of the puzzle, at least for the bubbles of Piedmontese origin.

3 How did exports go during and after lockdown? The great slowdown at the beginning of the year however coincided with the moment of least consumption of Piedmont sparkling wines, this contributed to limiting the losses. However, this year is tough like for everyone else, since alternative sales channels to restaurants will struggle to compensate for losses.

4 How’s the red tape? For the system that studies and manages it, it’s swell! For us companies, less so.

5 Tell us an anecdote related to your experiences abroad. On the positive side: the thrill of receiving an award with the sweet Asti Docg as the best aromatic bubble in the world, from the hands of the guru of sparkling wines Tom Stevenson in London during the Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships 2019. The negative: In Oslo, at the end of a masterclass on the Alta Langa Docg, when we got to tasting, being asked by the public: “give us a Prosecco...”

 Cuvage | Acqui Terme | Alessandria | www.cuvage.com

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

GAMBERO ROSSO X LIBRANDI

Librandi, synonymous with Calabria A cellar that focuses all on terroir Marina, a city that overlooks the IoVisiting this company would cernian Sea and is characterised by tainly help to understand the very both hilly and flat land vineyards set important work that the Librandi in the Mediterranean scrub biome. brothers carried out financially as The winery has always been excluwell. In 1993 they planted the first sively family-run: led until 2012 by experimental plot that welcomes the founding brothers Antonio and magliocco, arvino, mantonico bianco Nicodemo Librandi. Today, after Anand pecorello. In 1997, with the purtonio’s passing, the company is run chase of Tenuta Rosaneti, research by Nicodemo, Raffaele, Paolo, Franprogressively widened in parallel cesco and Teresa Librandi. An imwith the recovery of the viticultural portant choice that sees the Libranheritage and in 2000 an experimendi family at the forefront of all the tal plot was also set up to house over company’s activities: from managing 2,500 vines divided into 25 native vineyards to commerce. grape varieties. Here pre-harvest samplings and comparative company micro-vinifications were IDENTIKIT carried out. Driven by the desire to explore Wine: bottles and bring value to the Extra virgin olive oil: bottles local genetic heritage, in the same years the Horeca distribution channel Librandi brothers started a genetic improveMarket: in Italy, abroad ment program based on self-fertilization and Main foreign markets: subsequent selection of the best genotypes obtained on the two most important red berried varieties grown in the area: gaglioppo and magliocco dolce. A painstaking work that shows how strong the family bond is for the land and how important their contriCellar: employees bution to the quality of local viticulture has Vineyards: employees been. The area is Cirò

2,500,000 25,000 Horeca 55% 45% Germany, Switzerland, United States, Japan, Denmark, Belgium, China, Netherlands England, France, Russia, Canada, Australia, Luxembourg, Austria, Ukraine, Brazil, Finland, Norway, Sweden, Lebanon 25 80

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Labeling and Igp, further regional bond This past year the winery has undergone further changes, providing a graphic restyling of the labels and company logo with simpler and cleaner lines. The new look of the Critone, Terre Lontane and Duca Sanfelice wines was recently presented alongside the release of the new vintages. But more importantly, it was decided to focus fully on the “Calabria brand”, with the aim of making it even more recognizable in the world of wine and turning this into a strength. For this reason, the denomination “Calabria IGT” was adopted (in place of the previous “Val di Neto IGT”), placing it on the label for many of the references, while maintaining the micro-territoriality and the selective provenance of the grapes from the historic estates, plus supporting all with marketing strategies aimed at rediscovering the authentic natural and artistic riches of the region.

GAMBERO ROSSO X LIBRANDI

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

1. An overview of the Pittaffo estate (photo Luca Savettiere) 2. The new bottles of Critone, Terre Lontane and Duca Sanfelice wines 3. A bunch of gaglioppo grapes, the main vine of the Cirò denomination (photo Luca Savettiere)

Cru and olive groves for 350 hectares The estates owned by the Librandi family cover approximately 350 hectares, of which 232 are vineyards, 80 planted in olive groves and the remaining are forests. Rosaneti is certainly the beating heart of the company: it is the largest estate of the family, where we find the “varietal garden”, the collection of native grapes that currently houses about 200 varieties recovered throughout the region. In Arcidiaconato, in the municipality of Strongoli, the vineyards are exclusively dedicated to international vines. Ponta, in the historical area of the Cirò Doc, is bred in gaglioppo. There are additional plots of land in Pittaffo, San Biase and Brisi.

 Librandi - Cirò Marina (KR) - loc. San Gennaro - s.s. Jonica, 106 - 096231518 - librandi.it

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2O2O

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN PARIS

ARMANI RISTORANTE 149 Boulevard Saint-Germain Paris Average Price: € 45

Of the many Armani restaurants we tried around the world – from Tokyo to Dubai – that this is certainly the most complete and rigorous as far

as ingredients go as well as in cleanliness of flavours. This is a one-way trip to Italy. Merito for this goes to Massimo Mori and the good hands of Sicilian chef Massimo Tringali. Ingredients employed are nothing short of excellent, from the gamberi rossi di Mazara, Piedmontese hazelnuts, to the small artichoke Presidia, bottarga, and the charcuterie. A cuisine based on great purity, each dish has a different oil pairing, such as the spaghetti with tomato or ravioli with a burrata filling: luxurious and simple at the same time. The wine list mimics the same rigor, with a lot of research into niche wines from indigenous grapes. Minimal and elegant restaurant, located on the top floor of the cafe, boasting super pro-

BIJOU

DILIA

10 Rue Dancourt - Paris

1 Rue d’Eupatoria - Paris

Average Price: € 40

Average Price: € 60

The volcano that is Genn-

Of all the Italian chefs in

aro Nasti never stops. After

Paris, according to us Mi-

experiences in Spain and

chele Farnesi is the one

the United States, he found well-deserved

who mostly enhances instinctive, cre-

success in Paris. Bijou is much more than

ative and tasty traits. For us his is one

a pizzeria, it offers an extraordinary gas-

of the best cooking experiences in the

tronomic experience, at the foot of Mont-

city. In his mini bistro in Belleville, he

martre we ate some of the best doughs

combines the lessons learned during

in the world: contemporary, creative, with

his experiences with great French chefs

ingredients of true excellence. The blend

with very Italian flavours and textures.

of fine flours, from wholemeal, semi-

Perfect stuffed pasta, even the simple

whole and other cereals, and a perfect

spaghetti with seafood or cacio e pepe

leavening lead to pies of incredible light-

for lunch are excellent, with cuts of meat

ness. The many fanciful versions are ex-

such as the sumptuous venison fillet.

ceptional – there is also a dough added

The flavours are incisive, well balanced,

with Champagne – as are the great clas-

the land-sea combinations are amusing,

sics like Margherita and Marinara. Among

the dishes are extraordinary even in the

our favorites, the Crunch with salsic-

presence of many ingredients. Michele

cia and friarielli or the pie zucchine alla

is very young and loves good, artisanal

scapece, burrata and bottarga borealis.

wine, the wine list proves it thanks also

Top service. And what a wine list!

to the hard work of Mirko. In our last visit we had some amazing beetroot gnoc-

fessional service. At the meal’s end, leave

chi with oyster and some mind-blowing

room for Antonino Di Stefano’s fantastic

ravioli with black truffle on the top. No

desserts. The ricotta is to die for!

frills, real taste. Michele Farnesi has been awarded as Chef of the Year in the Top Italian Restaurants 2019.

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

There’s an increasing number of successful Italian restaurants in the French capital, but far removed from the stereotypes of classical Italian gastronomy. Think mini-bistros, restaurants with annexed extraordinary pasta labs and gourmet pizzerias in which wine plays a starring role. Some of the most talented Italian chefs live in Paris. Would you believe us if we told you we ate better tripe in Paris than in Rome?

TEMPILENTI

IDA par Denny Imbroisi

IL CARPACCIO

13 Rue Gerbier - Paris

117 Rue de Vaugirard - Paris

37, Avenue Hoche - Paris

Average Price: € 35

Average Price: € 50

Average Price: € 130

Tempilent is a place where the

When Italians move abroad,

We are in the center of Paris, a few

passage of time takes second

they hold tight to family ties.

steps from the Arc du Triomphe. In-

place. It’s an intimate and wel-

Michele Farnesi, for example,

side the luxurious Le Royal Manceau

coming space that allows guests to forget

dedicated his Parisian restau-

hotel, here we find Il Carpaccio, an

the busy Parisian life and enjoy genuine

rant, Dilia, to his grandparents. Denny

elegant restaurant that brings to the French

food. The place was created at the behest

Imbroisi, 30 years old, calls his place Ida,

capital classy but straightforward italian cui-

of Francesca Feniello and Silvia Giorgione,

named for his older sister. Born in Cal-

sine. High-quality fresh products give birth

respectively a chef from Alghero and a

abria, Imbroisi grew up in Mantua and

to dishes such as the burrata with pappa

sommelier from Turin, who focused their

moved to France at eighteen. He is a

al pomodoro sphere with extra virgin olive

attention on gentle care for the customer

well-known face in his adopted coun-

oil, oregano and basil; or the grilled spring

in the name of sensory pleasure. The de-

try, thanks also to his participation in the

lamb with confit spring onions, grilled egg-

cor is simple and linear, like the menu, im-

television program, Top Chef, when he

plant and fried baby potatoes. Not to be

mediate and composed of a few dishes:

was twenty-four. He headed the kitchen

missed are all the seafood-based dishes,

the vitello tonnato is a masterpiece of bal-

in Alain Ducasse’s Eiffel Tower restaurant

made with competence and respect of the

ance; as are the tasty spaghetti with but-

after a long lead-in working with re-

raw materials. Exhaustive wine list, but with

ter, anchovies and breadcrumbs, the goat

nowned chefs and restaurants. His favor-

some not-too-friendly prices.

cheeses are excellent, accompanied by the

ite ingredient is pasta, and he dedicates

broccoli rabe. The products are all of re-

an entire menu to it, from antipasto to

markable quality, all come from Italy, while

dessert. There’s always pasta, including

the meat from Burgundy breeders, while

the most traditional ones such as cacio

the strictly Italian wines have been se-

e pepe and carbonara served with a raw

lected by Silvia among the best references.

egg yolk on top. Pasta, vitello tonnato,

There is no shortage of traditional Sardin-

gnocchi – these are all reinvented in a

ian dishes often unknown to most. A place

contemporary manner.

of pleasure that many Parisians appreciate, so much so that it is often crowded even by famous people, artists and singers.

GAMBERO ROSSO

APRIL 2020

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN PARIS

CAFFÈ STERN

RETRÒBOTTEGA

PENATI AL BARETTO

47 Passage des Panoramas Paris

12, rue Saint Bernard paris -

9, rue Balzac - Paris

Average Price: € 100

Paris Average Price: € 35

Average Price: € 120

The elegant restaurant of the Alajmo brothers is perfect for any time of day. Located in a repurposed engraving studio at 47 Passage

des Panoramas, in the heart of Paris, Caffè Stern’s rooms are restored by architect Dominique Averland and furnished by Philippe Starck, with period pieces ranging from the XVI to the XVIII century. Service starts in the morning with well-brewed coffees by Gianni Frasi paired with flaky croissants. The quality offer continues throughout the day. Dinner shines with chef Denis Mattiuzzi’s creative dishes. Among menu classics, consider the dill tagliolini with pistachio sauce; fine shellfish and fish, and the quirky “cappuccino potato” served with Bolognese ragout.

Alberico Penati is a man in con-

Pietro Russano is the soul of

stant search for the pleasures of

Retrò. One of those eateries that

the table, having pursued his dream

cheer your heart and spirit. A

since adolescence to throw himself

relaxed yet lively atmosphere,

headlong into the dining world. His first

starting with the violet that welcomes

apprenticeship began in a restaurant in

you at the entrance; simple, too, but

Lecco, away from his family residing in

with a huge selection of products that

Brianza, an experience that ensured him

pop up all over the place, creating a

collaborations in the most prestigious

cheerful muddle. Natural Italian and

restaurants around the world. In 2014 Al-

French wines, cheese, charcuterie, pas-

berico opened a place in Paris and began

ta. To buy and take away or eat here, at-

to delight his customers with creative

tracted by that perfume of good things

dishes made with unique products from

which even drifts out onto the street.

every Italian region. The research be-

Then there are flatbreads from Apulia

hind the ingredients is accurate, among

stuffed with great products, conserves,

these Felicetti pastas, Mantuan pumpkin,

vegetables from the market, sausages.

Piedmont hazelnuts, meat selections

Ultra-simple, ultra-good, like the breads

and dishes based on white truffle from

and flatbreads made on the premises,

Alba. The wine list pays homage to the

home-made pasta, charcuterie and Ital-

major Italian names, with as many as

ian cooking. And we do love the philos-

250 labels from prestigious companies.

ophy and the research behind the wine and food selection. It’s the perfect place to get to know bio and biodynamic producers as well as many less know native grape varieties such as piedmontese carica l’asino and so on.

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

PASSERINI

LE GEORGE

MORI VENICE BAR

65 Rue Traversière - Paris

31 Avenue George V - Paris

27, Rue Vivienne - Paris

Average Price: € 50

Average Price: € 125

Average Price: € 110

A great example of virtuous restau-

Opulent, fashionable and with a

Italian chef back home, we

rant service. On the ground floor

classy clientèle, Mori is Maurizio

would put Giovanni Passerini

of the Four Season Hotel is the

Mori’s signature restaurant (the oth-

If we were asked to bring one

on top of our bucket list. Of Roman origin,

exquisitely Mediterranean cuisine

er is Emporio Armani Caffè). Philippe

Passerini has been in Paris for 10 years and

marked by crisp lightness. The service is

Starck designed the luxurious, rather Ba-

has trained in some of the best bistros in

exceptional, starting from the wine coor-

roque interior. The dishes evoke Venice

Paris. At Rino, for example, there were loyal

dinated by the pure talent of young Ales-

(and not only Venice), including cichetti

fans that drove thousands of miles just to

sandro Cini, who has put together one of

with aperitifs, veal tonné, musky octopus,

taste his genial dishes. Then, in 2016, he

the most beautiful and articulated wine

bigoli whole wheat pasta, risottos. Then

launched himself into the adventure of

collections in Europe, boasting character

Venice-style liver, squid in their ink and so

opening his own restaurant. The place is

and research. In the kitchen, Simone Za-

on. Fried food is Mori’s forte. We highly sug-

essential and the cuisine is contemporary,

noni proposes a sustainable cuisine, tak-

gest the Belfritto which is a fantastic and

ingredient-based, made of gestures, of re-

ing advantage of the land owned by the

crispy journey.

search. The customer is fully satisfied, and

hotel in Versailles and reducing waste as

Asparagus has a menu all of its own and

we are beyond the concept of fine dining.

much as possible. Meals open with ex-

there’s also room for truffles and Caviar de

The Roman style tripe is better than back

cellent raw fish or impeccable arancini.

Venise. Excellent Italian wine selection to

home, and the homemade bigoli with

Don’t miss the tarte tatin, filled with ca-

drink by the bottle or the glass.

mussels and broccoli are simply superb.

cio e pepe gelato and ricotta, lemon and

The lunch menu boasts exceptional value

mint tortelli, the restaurant’s great classic.

for money, in the evening customers can

Among mains, the 36 hours goat and the

share generous meat servings and a menu

very classic Milanese cutlet, perfectly fra-

that varies on a daily basis. The wine list is

grant, stand out above the fine rest.

in tune with the natural wave of Parisian bistros, and there’s good choice of wines poured by the glass. Annexed to the restaurant is a fresh pasta workshop, where even Alain Ducasse comes for his supply…

GAMBERO ROSSO

APRIL 2020

ETNA, MYTHICAL TERRITORY OF WINE. HERE'S HOW IT HAPPENED The vineyards on the slopes of Mt Etna have an ancient history, yet it has only been a few years since this area has started a new life and made itself known as one of the best places in the world. Elegance, depth, finesse and stylistic precision are the best identity elements of the wines here, a universe of green, blue and lava that stirs the soul. And in this rebirth, the link with cooks and food entrepreneurs is important: an inseparable combination, thinking of the tourism that gives oxygen to these lands

words by Lorenzo Ruggeri - photos by Andrea Ruggeri

STORIES

e think better with our bare feet in the sand. The chalkboard reads: swordfish rolls, anchovy skewers, capon fish alla ghiotta, mussels, salad. That nobody ever orders. Our journey begins with one of the most spartan beaches on the coast, Stella Marina in Giardini Naxos. No two sunbeds are like the other, the grill is perfectly controlled, you can eat well and Mt Etna is there in plain view, from the sea it is even more impressive. From the water the volcano is magnetic, you have to look at it a couple of times, rub your eyes, to verify that it's actually real. We'd like to stop a passerby and ask him if he too sees the mirage we see. The contours of the volcano have been redesigned by wine, from the acclaim

that the Etna bottles have garnered in the great restaurants of New York, Hong Kong and Tokyo. In the course of only a few years Etna has become the dream of many international sommeliers, ferrying curious enthusiasts, hungry for good bottles, ready to be surprised by a strong, wild and distracting territory. We hug the coast and enter the Catania province, we glance at the peak that always attracts clouds: a landscape that knows how to impress with its contrasts, sea and lava, gorse and huge bougainvillea; perched villages and hospitable people in a mix of scruffy beauty, unfinished buildings and a very special energy. After many kilometers of free beach with deep blue water just a few centimeters from the shoreline, we reach Riposto with its lively fish market where you can

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

enjoy a king's meal with only a few euros. This is where all the wines of the Etna districts would rest, waiting to board the boats ready to sail. ANCIENT HISTORY AND MANY PAUSES Viticulture on Etna has a history of peaks and very long pauses, in parallel with a certain propensity for exports. One figure stands out from the rest: in 1848 the area planted with vines on Etna was over 25,000 hectares. A number that today is difficult to imagine: Etna DOC currently claims just over one thousand hectares. The great abandonment took place in the early 1900s, with the advent of phylloxera and then with policies that led to the grubbing up of the vineyards, favouring lemon and orange groves, as Salvo Foti il-

11 COLLECTION-WORTHY LABELS THE ETNA RENAISSANCE

Some

lustrates in his book The Wines of the Volcano. But even after 1968, with the recognition of the DOC, Etna, more than anything else, continued to doze. Meanwhile, we continue to slowly take in the volcano, we stop in Carruba for an exceptional mulberry granita with whipped cream (locals say it as one word, "gelsiconpanna") at Nuovo Caffè al Portico, along State road 117. Very little sugar, compact texture and homogeneous, prime quality fruit; and the arancini are equally delicious. We stop at the port of Pozzillo between boats and houses that appear as populated by hobbits, then we reach Michele Faro, owner of the Pietradolce winery, at the La Grotta restaurant in Santa Maria la Scala. You only come here for one reason: enjoying a sumptuous 

of etna ' s greatest wine hits retasted for a collector ' s album

1 Etna Bianco Pietramarina ’98 - Benanti Monumental for precision, crystallization of flavour, brilliance, surreal time management. the scents are of menthol, the colour is still very young, vibrant and creamy, never ending in its hints of herbs and salt. One of the best whites ever produced In italy, child of the Contrada Caselle, just outside Milo. 2 Feudo di Mezzo Quadro delle Rose ’05 - Terre Nere A wine that has opened a way, a vision. A 6,000 square meter patch surrounded by dry stone walls that Marc De Grazia decided to produce on his own. The vintage is graceful, with bewitching floral aromas, pure silk tannin, reminiscent of medicinal herbs alternating with whispered minerality.. 3 Etna Rosso Monte Ilice ’07 - Biondi Awine produced only in 2007 and 2008 by Ciro Biondi in the municipality of TreCastagni on a small volcanic crater. The gustatory verticality is proportional to the slopes of the vineyard, reaching 45% inclines, complete with an active cableway to transport the grapes. Plants sink into the sand, there is also a little minnella; the modulation of flavour and the incisiveness of this Etna are something worthy remembering. 4 Etna Rosso Musumeci ’08 - Tenuta di Fessina Tthere is a sense of balance in this wine that is totally at odds with the disturbing energy that the volcano transmits. The vineyard dates back to 1932 in the Contrada Rovittello district. Scents are of freshly picked blackberries, graphite; the tactile sensations are nothing short of caressing, there is still a lot of momentum and fragrance, lashings of flowers and ash. Among whites, take note of A' Puddara 2009 and a real gem: Musumeci Bianco 2015. 5 Etna Bianco Quota 600 ’10 - Graci Great interpretation of the vintage by Alberto Graci. The sensations of orange blossom and broom touch deep strings, as well as the minerality matrix, for a white with a refined step, structure, and with a decisive and balanced finish, just slightly resinous, of excellent progression. 6 Rosso Relativo Rivedibile ’14 - Bonaccorsi It's not a red, it's not a rosé, it's rather a fascinating middle ground for its cadence in perfumes, first slow and then incessant. The smoky imprint carries herbs, mulberries, licorice with it. The wine was rejected by the tasting commission of the Etna Doc, Alice Bonaccorsi thus decided to put the "to be revised" term on all the bottles. Reassessed now, it has aged better than many famous etna rosso. 7 Magma ’14 - Cornelissen From the Contrada Barbabecchi district comes this intense red, deep, powerful and fascinating on the nose, which smells of smoked herbs, ripe peach and lots of mediterranean scrub. In the mouth it's dense, rich in fruit, with round tannins that satisfy. At the beginning it feels like a slow wine, in the end it runs freely between smoky touches and an intense minerality. 8 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo ’14 - Girolamo Russo 2014 was a great year only on etna. Rarefied, impregnable, the colour is very clear but the tenacious taste, a spun texture like silk, with fruit at its maximum point of maturity and vitality. Memories of pepper and graphite accompany a symphonic gait. In the cellar there are a few bottles of a 2016 goosebumps-worthy San Lorenzo Reserve. 9 Etna Rosso Contrada Santo Spirito ’16 - Pietradolce We already talked about that natural amphitheater that is Vigna Barbagalli, the 2012 vintage should be framed like a precious work of art. Here we like to remember a bottle that best summarises the traits of a delicate cru like santo spirito, one can feel the cold winds, and the scents of rose and mint. Raspberry and a lot of grace in the mouth. 10 Etna Rosso Don Alfio ’16 - Vino di Anna Australia and France meet in Solicchiata. Here, the sensibility of Eric Narioo's tasting, the resourcefulness of Anna Mertens and the grapes of a vineyard located 900 meters above Rovittello, matured in amphora. It opens with a little CO2, then it's just a crescendo of mulberries, pepper. Juicy and salty: long! 11 Etna Rosso Contrada P ’16 - Passopisciaro The last "track" is dedicated to the work on the contrade by Andrea Franchetti who has opened the eyes of many other producers. We like the echoes of root, anise and violet, for a juicy red of finesse and depth, with well-defined minerality and nuances of incense.

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

STORIES

TRE BICCHIERI 2020 ON ETNA  Etna Bianco A’ Puddara 2017

seafood salad by choosing the fish at the entrance from the counter, a good seasoning of olive oil and a bottle of Etna Bianco.

Tenuta di Fessina

 Etna Bianco Alta Mora 2018

Alta Mora

 Etna Bianco Cavanera

Ripa di Scorciavacca 2017 – Firriato  Etna Rosato Mofete 2018

Palmento Costanzo

 Etna Rosso 2017 – Tornatore  Etna Rosso Arcurìa 2017 – Graci  Etna Rosso Contrada

Monte Serra 2017 – Benanti  Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo 2016

Cottanera

 Etna Rosso V. Barbagalli 2016

Pietradolce

 Etna Rosso Vico

Prephylloxera 2016 – Tenute Bosco  Etna Rosso Vign. Monte Gorna

Ris. 2013 – Cantine Nicosia

OVER 100 WINERIES AT THE FOOT OF THE VOLCANO «I remember very well when my grandfather had to go to Randazzo: there was practically nothing. Yet already in the 1950s the Solicchiata and Passopisciaro grapes were the most popular. Then there was a long gap of 50 years, until the rebirth in the 2000s. We arrived on Etna in 2005, together with Franchetti, Graci, Marc de Grazia, Cornelissen,» says Michele Faro. The history of quality winemaking on Etna is a very recent fact, from the New World. «Today we are more than 100 wineries on Etna, there is even the need for a master plan and fix a ceiling price in the vineyards, but we must also

THE THREE WINES WE’RE READY TO BET ON 1 Etna Bianco ’19 – SRC 2 Etna Rosso Notti Stellate ’16 Etnella 3 Etna Rosso Navigabile ’17 Ayunta

«Today we are more than 100 wineries on Etna, there is even the need for a master plan and fix a ceiling price in the vineyards, but we must also work a lot on tourism»

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

work a lot on tourism, to give more information to visitors. I receive several visits from American and Asian sommeliers who have fallen in love with our wines. Now we are very ready to start again, this is the right time to bring the Italians closer to a territory that has no comparison.» We finally climb Etna with Michele until we reach the new winery in Solicchiata, decorated with art pieces by Sicilian artists and a very deep view. You can see the Alcantara, Castiglione, Nebrodi gorges, a river of alberello system vineyards. We go up to the Barbagalli basin, a small vineyard with centuries-old stumps that give microscopic grapes and an unprecedented concentration of flavour. In total silence we tune in to the topographical unit of Etna: the contrada, or district. Here we are in the Rampante district, in the cellar 

STORIES

we also taste the Santo Spirito district with a gentler and whispered character, distinctly floral, in a comparison with the Langa is the Villero dell'Etna. A 2016 Etna Rosato also shines, very delicate and fragrant, yes, we strongly believe in the typology. Confirmations come from an equal vintage of Giuseppe Russo, equally delicious. Michele speaks very well about the 2019 vintage, in fact his white Archineri is already consistent, juicy, a classic, mature, balanced vintage. We continue to climb between abandoned villas and vineyards that have seen their value increase by 300% in recent years. NOT JUST WINE: WATER IS GREAT, TOO Our attention shifts from wine to water. Armed with glass bottles, we take a tour of some of the area's most renowned fountains. Etna has not

only fire in its belly but also hosts an exuberant groundwater aquifer, the most important water resource in eastern Sicily. Compared to the rest of the island, here it rains a lot more, in winter you can ski on the volcano, the temperature range is fierce: Etna is really a North in the deep South. The first stop is the source at the gates of Castiglione di Sicilia, at the crossroads downhill from Solicchiata, savoury and very fine. The second, very popular considering the number of people waiting in line, is in Piedimonte Etneo, next to the sports field, and is just barely sparkling, a joy for the palate. The last stop is at the gates of Presa, for a slightly creamier and more full-bodied water. Happy with our spoils and our water tasting, we return to Linguaglossa, a hub for those who want to visit the north side of the massif. Here the Pennisi family has done its part. The

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

butcher shop has been active for 50 years, in May 2009 an ancient 19th century residence was transformed into a resort, complete with an excellent restaurant; three years ago the butcher also became a trattoria, with home-aged Nebrodi cured meats, well-marbled meats, a virtuous list of olive oils and wines. ÂŤThe change of the last 10 years for the whole territory has been wonderful. We had quantity tourism but finally also quality travel, we are really grateful to the wine producers who have changed the face of the area. As far as businesses like us there are still few, but pizzerias and restaurants are popping up; we are growing well and we believe we can do it even after the great health emergency. Wine tourista are demanding, they ask for a more attentive service, if they spend 70 euros for a bottle they also want to eat well, learn the details. Think olive oil, for example, in short, tourism urges ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

THE ETNA RENAISSANCE

Partinic

o (PA)

Cusumano

Osteria Rosso di Vino

Giarra

SRC Girolamo Russo

Tischi Toschi Taormina

Cottanera Graci

La Riserva Bistrot

Davide Bentivegna

Tornatore

Passopisciaro

Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Pasticceria Santo Musumeci

Randazzo

Flascio

Castiglione di Sicilia

Sant’Alessio Siculo

Vino di Anna la

Ristorante San Giorgio e il Drago

Cave Ox

Solicchiata Rovittello

Terra Mia

Gaggi Taormina

Linguaglossa Passopisciaro Winery

In Cucina dai Pennisi

Pietradolce

Giardini Naxos

Shalai Resort

Tenuta di Fessina

Bronte

Santa Teresa di Riva

Tenute Bosco

Verz el

Ayunta

Casamatta

Lido Stella Marina

La Spina Carmelo Pasticceria Bar

PARCO DELL’ETNA Sant’Alfio

Zash

Milo Riposto Santa Etnea Venerina Carruba

Sabir Gourmanderie

Locanda Nerello

Adrano Carcaci

La Cucina di Donna Carmela

Pasticceria Russo

Biondi

Biancavilla Ragalna

Trecastagni Viagrande

Pedara Federico Curtaz

Acireale

Trattoria la Grotta

Paterno Benanti

Mm!! Trattoria Me Cumpari Turiddu

Cantine Nicosia Sapio

Catania Cantine

Pasticceria Savia

Sigonella Sum Restaurant

Mangiare e dormire

5 km

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

STORIES

WHY DID I, BORN IN TAIPEI, WANT TO WRITE AN "ENCYCLOPAEDIA" OF ETNA WINES How did the idea of a book about Etna come about? I like to talk about terroir and after the work I did on Barolo and Barbaresco I found a variety similar to Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo on Etna which fully reflected the composition of the soils, the lava flows of different eras. On my first trip, emotion was triggered, my Asian colleagues told me that there were no more than 10 good wineries, that's not the case. Plus very little is known about Etna, even in Italy, I find it curious that it was a girl from Taiwan who tackled such an enterprise. In fact, success did not come from the Consortium's promotional work, but thanks to a small group of producers who brought their wines everywhere and discovered Etna in the world. I have read the production disciplinary of Etna 200 times and found it very confusing, I also found several errors, some crus are poorly written, the limits between the contrade are not very clear and sometimes do not coincide with the map that I drew using satellite imagery. Having said that, I am convinced that Etna wine is not a bubble, there are wines of great quality and I am happy to see a glass of Etna sold in Hong Kong or New York for $120, it means that the prestige of a booming area is being recognised. Fascinating because there are many different styles, each cellar has its own. At a stylistic level I see two strands among the whites. The first: whites from alberello vines which are very cisp, full, with very high acidity, wines that are better on the second day with a little more air. I think of Graci, Terre di Costantino, Baron of Villagrande, Federico Graziani. Then there are the whites of altitude with very late harvests, here you sense less acidity but a salty relaxation and a mature finish. I think of Feudo Cavaliere as a typical example, Falcon, Mannino and Eudes estates, to me all great news. A rosé? Everyone has a journey and a colour, there is no common philosophy. I prefer those with lighter hues, sharper direction, with floral notes, mint and fresh herbs like a good oolong tea, such as Terre Nere or Cottanera. In regards to the reds, there is the whole natural route, on Etna it's much easier to make wines without chemistry, I think of the Cornelissen paradox: the whole world knows him as a producer of natural wines but he says he does not make natural wines. When done well, I feel a lot of the contrade in the glass, with beautiful fruity impressions, and a pure cherry that is typical of the Nerello Mascalese. I also really like vinification without oak, some entry levels can age very well. I am thinking of Fischetti and Quantico in Linguaglossa, many clear, vivid wines. As for the contrade, I have a soft spot for Barbabecchi which is outside of the DOC, but the name is inside the DOC, located above 1,000 meters, few producers do that. All the wines I tasted have an elegant violet note and a wild cherry sensation. The lava layer here is from 1879, cooler than others and you feel a toasty note even more internal to the structure. And then I think San Lorenzo and Rampante who share a 1644 lava floor and a very high concentration of pre-phylloxera plants. I think of Giotto, Pietradolce, Russo, Passopisciaro. There is a cherry imprint and a more sinuous and less wild character than Barbabecchi with this spice that is unique. Travel tips? There is still very little tourism here, it's very easy getting lost with the GPS navigator, therefore: stay on the road! And if you find yourself on a single lane road that gets too narrow, it means that you are in the wrong place. But in the end even a Taiwanese learns, there are only two main roads that go up. Postcovid? Etna has a bright future, it will continue to offer quality and not quantity wines, the number of wineries will decrease, but in the world there is still a great hunger for Etna. – Xiaowen Huang, journalist and author of Etna Wine Library

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

us to do better. And the response goes well beyond Etna, I am really happy that Catania, the city, has finally caught up.» THE BOND BETWEEN WINE AND DINING During lockdown, continued Leonardo Pennisi, the world of wine has tightened around the dining world: «That's when I remember why I am comfortable in this world: I have never found a bad person among those who make wine,» he says. Among the latest tastings, Leonardo mentions SRC, of which we tasted a truly amazing Etna Bianco 2018, and Cusumano's Etna Bianco Alta Mora 2014, a refined white that would blindly put many serial tasters in a profound identity crisis. All the main wineries on the island took part in the race to Etna, among which Cusumano seems to have a more complete and defined strategy, with a good quality level achieved in a short time, particularly on whites, Di-

THE ETNA RENAISSANCE

HERE’S WHY L’ETNA IS SO PUPULAR IN ASIA Ah, how I love Etna wines! They have a lot of personality, a medium body, an elegant profile that puts them in competition with the best wines in the world. Finding such a wine in the South is almost impossible. Etna has been a vector for all of Sicily, it's also making the other areas grow, it has given an incredible boost and I am delighted that it's selling at higher prices, it gives value to the territory. Before the challenge in Bangkok, I was the sommelier and general manager of Otto and ½ Bombana in Hong Kong for 5 years, I touched this growth with my own hands. In Asia, seafood is very important, in Hong Kong, as here in Thailand, Etna is a great wine in its versatility, it goes very well with fish dishes, but also with meat and truffles, a real favourite in Asia. You can put a bottle of Etna Rosso in a pairing everywhere, even on a table that orders very different things. The fundamental aspect is that quality producers came to Asia first, consumers formed an opinion on the best bottles. Protagonists like Michele Faro, Giuseppe Russo, Alberto Graci, Andrea Franchetti have created a furrow for the others who are now arriving. And now we can only grow, the palate has changed in Asia. Previously consumers sought fruit and roundness, now they are used to tannins and acidity. Here I added in all the restaurants of my hotel an Etna Bianco, an Etna Rosato and an Etna Rosso. In October we start with the Italian restaurant Riva, it will be fun. – Marino Braccu, Assistant Food & Wine Beverage Director, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, Bangkok

ego Cusumano's passion. «The spark happened n in 2013 drinking a Passopisciaro wine and looking at that natural amphitheater of Guardiola. Today the vineyard project is complete, we have 34 productive hectares, spread over five contrade. We didn't want to change anything about the area but only to emphasize its beauty,» said Diego. ENTREPRENEURIAL VISION The initial enthusiasm must be followed by an entrepreneurial project, a medium and long-term vision because Etna is not a hit and run place, it does not allow the possibility of speculation: «Whoever comes to Etna must must be in the mindset of marrying it». In his thought, Etna must aim for vertical growth, without increasing the quantity, seriously working on wine tourism, on an idea of family luxury, keeping a traditional register: «There is no person in the world who came to Sicily and doesn't spend wonderful

words, despite all the problems. Imagine if we became efficient in transport and with an excellent connection with the hotel offer: we would be self-sufficient. Etna is a beautiful woman who does not need makeup. It meets the strong request for simplicity, foreigners are fascinated by the fact that we bring real flavours to the table, even just natural vegetables that express all the power of this land.» We then move to the other side of Mt Etna, the one to the north-east, skirting villages such as Sant’Alfio and Milo, between churches built in dark lava and bell towers that still peal every fifteen minutes. We meet the frankness of Federico Curtaz, one of the agronomists and oenologists who best knew how to read the white wine inclination of the volcano. «I think Etna has a charm that's far superior to the current results. If we talk about medium quality, there is still a lot to do, there are many good wines but not absolute champions. There is a space to

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

be filled with consistency, we must put ambition and awareness into it, we need conscious farmers. The problem? Etna makes good grapes even in bad years. And we could suffer from this aspect, the sense of haphazard luck, this is a place of extraordinary vocation». His Etna Bianco Gamma comes from a historic vineyard on the outskirts of Milo, we taste a preview of the 2018 vintage and we find ourselves inside a story to say the least fascinating: dry and crisp, it opens on fennel, anise tones; it is light and suspended, has a undulating rhythm, beautiful like the details of an old Borsalino. We like his Etna Rosso Purgatorio 2017 less, but he asks us to hold, we would already have the verdict in hand. THE STRENGTH OF THE AREA’S WHITE WINE SOUL We agree with Federico on certain points: Etna Bianco often ages better than Etna Rosso, which expresses 

STORIES

itself at the top in the first 5-10 years of life. As if among the characters of Nerello Mascalese there were a fragile beauty, a youthful fragrance, a search for detail rather than power and extension over time. «You see, Pinot Nero has a tannin that goes towards the fruit of the raspberry, velvet, enters the mouth and then flattens. The tannin of Nebbiolo is voluminous, fills the mouth and then pushes hard. The tannin of Nerello is exactly in the middle, it does not have the volume of Nebbiolo, it does not have the velvet of Pinot Nero. It ripens earlier, but it has a beautiful crunchiness of fruit with already sweet and ripe tannins». A grain and texture halfway between silk and wool that really seems woven from lava and ripiddu, that black dust that settles on the balconies of the Etna towns. Three places that a mountaineer like Curtaz loves on Etna. The first is

dawn on the hairpin bends between Milo and Linguaglossa, just before arriving in Sant’Alfio: the profile of Calabria opens up to the east, you can see the hill that supports Taormina and the sea starts to glimmer at that time of day. The sunset on the other hand needs to be seen in Biancavilla, between the terraces of the Montalto stream: the gaze goes far and the sea takes on a darker colour than the wines. The mountain in all its beauty can be seen «Above Randazzo, when you reach the hill that leads to Maletto and descend towards Bronte, there is a slight slope. Look around: the volcano seems to have the gift of immensity, there is a stark contrast between the forest and the petrified lava flow, in spring you can see flowers and in the distance there's snow.» We interlude with a cipollina (local pizza) and aubergine rustico - rotis-

THE DENOMINATION IN FIGURES

2016

2.898.368

2015

2.377.728

2014

1.865.267

2013

NUMBER OF BOTTLES (0,75)

ETNA DOC

778,82

252

759,90

291 321 340

2019

4.324.034

242

2018

3.606.419

680

2017

3.432.185

203

844,16 885,68 966,47

370

1062,28

GRAPE-GROWERS CLAIMED AREA (ha)

TYPES BOTTLED IN 2019 (hl.) Etna Bianco Etna Rosso Etna Rosé Etna sparkling Bianco Etna sparkling Rosé

9.152,59 19.227,91 2.581,31 621,69 233,04

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

series on Etna should be proposed as UNESCO heritage! - and we return to the North side at a native Etna restaurateur: Sandro Dibella. In 2011 he opened Cave Ox, a meeting hub for wine lovers; three years ago he doubled with Vitis in Castiglione, a nice wine bar with cuisine. «I have a vivid memory before I opened the first place. I was working in a bar around here and a gentleman asked me for a glass of wine. I didn't have any. He simply couldn't accept my refusal in an area like this. Then out of a sense of service I went to my father's house, took a glass of water and red house wine from the fridge and returned to offer it to the gentleman. He walked out with a smile», Sandro tells us. Until a few years ago, Prosecco and Campari were what people drank, at best. Today at Cave Ox there is all the best of Etna, between a slice of pizza and that sense of hospitality

THE ETNA RENAISSANCE

«We are hungry for tourism, as soon as we see foreigners we want them to bring home the best possible memory of Etna, we must make that message live on»

typical of the area: «We are hungry for tourism, as soon as we see foreigners we want them to bring home the best possible memory of Etna, we must make that message live on». You never really feel like a tourist on the volcano.  THE NEW WAVE IN THE VINEYARD

MOULDS, LIMESCALE, OXIDATION, HYPER-FERMENTATION... I think of caliceddu, a spontaneous vegetable that grows only in the Catania area or in the mountains of Siracusa: a unique product, a beautiful bitterness that I balance with pumpkin. I find it crazy that many local chefs haven't valued it yet. Yes, Sicily is characterised by incredible biodiversity, in a few minutes you have a product steeped in land and sea. I think of mauro, a super crisp seaweed that grows mainly in Ognina. It was once eaten crumpled in newspapers with a squeeze of lemon juice. I think of the delicious mulberries, apricots, or when I go down to the fish market and feel something special. Sicily is the best place in the world for a chef, believe me, it really offers everything. And above all it allows a particular approach to the raw material, it conveys something more. Just take a walk to the Catania market early in the morning where a sort of romanticism hovers and is so difficult to find elsewhere. I love it, I enjoy doing super-umami cuisine. I push all products towards strong aromatic profiles, thanks also to the collaboration with the University of Catania. And I manage to do it because here we like to eat tasty savoury dishes, there is a historical and cultural heritage towards strong tastes, an articulated path towards a food with structure and character that affects the type of approach to the raw material. Dining in Sicily? The bare facts say that there is no generational leap, the entire range of thirty-year-old chefs is missing. Like there has been a blockage, the fish is still served overcooked in order to avoid any sort of risk. We are still there, the disciples of Cuttaia and Sultano also follow the fish, sauce and side dish routine. I want to eat an ancient cuisine, a dish featuring Cosaruciario beans or Ustica lentils, I want to enhance the native products. My cuisine requires very long preparations, I think of the fermentations, the garum I make with the entrails of anchovies (one month at 60 degrees). In the kitchen I need 20 people, and only 2 in the service which is very simple, it's just a matter of assembling. I still know little about Catania but I had the opportunity to tour Etna, I like many of the Biondi wines, also I like to drink very natural, especially orange wines, they give me something more. On the product level, my attention is now on the small apples that grow on Etna, one of these fits in three fingers of your hand, I am thinking of a dessert. What's next? In the kitchen I am working on the concept of hyper-ripening. We are studying oxidation to stabilize a very ripe product like an avocado. We work on fats, lipolysis, bringing it to a level of ripening that's close to rancid and bombard it with antioxidants. The result is a soft avocado, both super sweet and super metallic. And we season it with oxidized avocado oil. On the menu in August you will certainly find a historical dish such as marinated anchovies, lemon oil and infusion, oxidized anchovy mayonnaise, garlic oil and parsley. It's our garum march. Then zucchini alla scapece, a lasagna of zucchini fermented in rice bran, scapece mayonnaise; we season it with oil, no balsamic vinegar but rather black garlic. And then our tomato salad. I start from a tomato water, shallot marinated with soy, the beauty is that the tomatoes are marinated in quicklime: they become even harder. At the base, a tomato soup and basil water. In the cherry tomatoes we insert a mould and then juice everything in the cold centrifuge. This gives us a super acidic and aromatic water!– Davide Guidara, , chef at Sum Restaurant in Catania

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

STORIES

The key encounter is with Frank Cornelissen, a beautiful mind, a Belgian who since 2000 has chosen Etna as his home and life philosophy, bringing it with his wines - which always make you think everywhere - in the world, between restaurants, independent wine bars and also to those who pursue trends. «Here on Etna, apart from Benanti, we are all first generation. We have to get involved, we are in a phase of great change, we are in phase 2.0, in full expansion, research, with many young producers. It takes time: in 15 years we will reap the rewards. Myself, 20 years ago, thought more of my style than Etna, the approach was even provocative», Frank confesses that to maintain a greater fragrance on red wines he understood that he had to bottle first and leave more wine in the bottle rather than in oak or in the

tank. This is why he's investing heavily in storage. While we interview him, we think about his Susucaru Rosato and how well it pairs with a bruschetta topped with tomato and onion. «We have to work a lot as a consortium and as a wine growing area. Rosé on Etna does not yet have an identity, it needs to be rethought, while for white the specification is too wide and there is too much space for interpretations, there is a common stylistic problem. While on red we are already ahead as definition and recognizability.» Visiting Frank's cellar will resume on September 7, 2020. «Now we bite the bullet, it takes patience, let's focus on the Etna wines: elegance, depth and finesse». We descend from the Alcantara gorges and return to look at Etna from the sea. And we are already set to come back. 

11 NOT-TO-BE-MISSED FOOD EXPERIENCES

1 ARANCINO FILLED WITH TRUNZO CABBAGE FROM ACIREALE 4 Archi - Milo (CT)

2 GETTING LOST BROWSING THE WINE LIST Cave Ox - Castiglione di Sicilia (CT)

3 STIMPIRATA STYLE RABBIT Tischi Toschi Taormina Taormina (ME)

4 WARM CROISSANTS FILLED WITH HONEY FROM ETNA Pasticceria Russo Santa Venerina (CT)

5 ORO VERDE DI SICILIA GELATO Musumeci - Randazzo (CT)

6 GELSICONPANNA MULBERRY GRANITA WITH WHIPPED CREAM Nuovo caffè al Portico - Carruba (CT)

7 SEAFOOD SALAD Trattoria la Grotta Acireale-Santa Maria La Scala (CT)

8 SWORDFISH ROLLS Lido Stella Marina Giardini Naxos (ME)

9 ALMOND PASTE AND PISTACHIO PASTRIES Pasticceria La Spina - Sant’Alfio (CT)

10 GRAZING BOARD OF NEBRODI CURED MEATS Dai Pennisi - Linguaglossa (CT)

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

TONNACCHIOLI WITH ETNA HERBS San Giorgio e il Drago

CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR

2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour 2021 2021 2021 2021 2021 2021

GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational

2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER 16-18 ROME - Italy

SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER JUNE JUNE CANADA JUNE

trebicchieri

trebicchieri 16-18 ROME - Italy trebicchieri - Speciale Anteprime - Speciale trebicchieri Anteprime trebicchieri - Speciale - Speciale Anteprime 21-22 SHANGHAI -trebicchieri China 14 MONTREAL 14 MONTREAL - Canada 14 -MONTREAL Canada 14 MONTREAL - Canada - Canada trebicchieri VINEXPO Special Anteprime trebicchieri web show JUNE SOLD OUT 21-22 SHANGHAI - China trebicchieri VINEXPO Special trebicchieri Special Edition Italian Wines Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Top Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow trebicchieri web show 24 TAIPEI - Taiwan - Canada - Canada CALGARY -TopCanada -TopCanada 16 CALGARY 16 CALGARY 16 16 CALGARY SOLD OUT CANADA trebicchieri web show TAIWAN trebicchieri Special Edition 24 TAIPEI Taiwan 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEBVANCOUVER SHOW18 WEBVANCOUVER SHOW 26- SEOUL Top Italian Wines Top Italian Wines Roadshow TopWines ItalianRoadshow Wines Top Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow Top Italian 18 Canada 18 VANCOUVER - -Canada 18 VANCOUVER - Canada -Roadshow Canada Korea web show TAIWAN trebicchieri web show USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow 26 SEOUL Korea trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 29 TOKYO - Japan 08 GERMANY 08 GERMANY08 GERMANY 08 GERMANY trebicchieri trebicchieri web show USA OCTOBER OCTOBER OCTOBER OCTOBER trebicchieri web show U.K. trebicchieri 29 SHOW TOKYO - Japan trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK trebicchieri web show U.K. NOVEMBER trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri ROME -ROME Italy - Italy ROME -ROME Italy - Italy OCTOBER WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 22 U.K. 22 U.K. 22 U.K. 22 U.K.trebicchieritrebicchieri NOVEMBER OCTOBER Gambero Rosso Food&Wine Week 16-19 DUBAI - UAE Top Italian Wines Roadshow 29 TOKYO 29 TOKYO - Japan - Japan 29 TOKYO 29 TOKYO - Japan - Japan KIEV - Ukraine trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 29 USA29 USA 29 USA29 USAtrebicchieritrebicchieri Gambero Rosso Food&Wine Week 16-19 DUBAI - UAE Top Italian Wines Roadshow KIEV - Ukraine trebicchieri 24 ST.PETERSBURG - Russia trebicchieri en primeur WARSAW - Poland NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER trebicchieri 24 ST.PETERSBURG en primeur en primeur trebicchieri 26 MOSCOW -- Russia Russia WARSAWPRAGUE - Poland - Czech Republic trebicchieri trebicchieri JULY JULY JULY JULY trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri 02 SEOUL 02 SEOUL Korea Korea 02 SEOUL 02 SEOUL Korea Korea trebicchieri 26 MOSCOW - Russia 30 ZURICH - Switzerland Vini d'Italia PRAGUEWIEN - Czech Republic trebicchieri trebicchieri en primeur en primeur - Austria trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 04 SHANGHAI 04 - China - SHANGHAI China 04 SHANGHAI - Chinatrebicchieri - Vini China 30 SHANGHAI ZURICH -04 Switzerland d'Italia trebicchieri en primeur WIEN - Austria trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB BEIJING SHOW06 WEB BEIJING SHOW trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri 06 - China- 06 China BEIJING 06 BEIJING - China - China 13 HONG 13 KONG HONG KONG 13 HONG 13 KONG HONG KONG

2021 2021

16-19 DUBAI 16-19 -DUBAI UAE -16-19 UAE DUBAI 16-19 -DUBAI UAE -Food&Wine UAE Gambero Rosso Gambero Rosso Food&Wine Week GamberoWeek Rosso Gambero Food&Wine Rosso Food&Wine Week Week trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE JANUARY27 JAPAN 24 - Russia 24 - Russia MOSCOW 24 MOSCOW -trebicchieri Russia-trebicchieri Russia trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB MOSCOW SHOW24 WEB MOSCOW SHOW 27 JAPAN 27 JAPAN 27 JAPAN

JANUARY

12 CALGARY - Canada

trebicchieritrebicchieri

Top Italian Wines Roadshow 26 ST.PETERSBURG 26 ST.PETERSBURG -26Russia ST.PETERSBURG -26Russia ST.PETERSBURG - Russia - Russiatrebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri

APRIL

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27 BERLIN - Germany

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05 NAPA VALLEY - USA trebicchieri SponsorSponsor 10 Sponsor Sponsor CHICAGO - USA trebicchieri trebicchieri 08 NEW YORK - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow 12 HOUSTON - USA 10 CHICAGO - USA trebicchieri trebicchieri PROWEIN Special 20 DUSSELDORF - Germany Top Italian Wines Roadshow 12 HOUSTON - USA

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CHARTS

WINE FAIR PREVIEW Tastings of new previews in the main wine bars of Italy by Stefania Annese - illustrations by Valentina Scannapieco

Wine Fair Preview reaches its eighth edition. The project, promoted by Gambero Rosso, aims to bring the public closer to quality drinking in the best wine bars of Italy. It’s an itinerant tasting that every year involves the largest and most historic wine bars in Italy in Rome, Naples, Turin, Lecce, Milan and Florence to Trento, Palermo and Cagliari. There are many cities involved and more than 40 wineries proposed on rotation with their wines, including preview labels and successful classics. Each tasting highlights the multiplicity of ways and styles that the different

GAMBERO ROSSO

terroirs and many grape varieties are able to express by telling the many faces of Italian Wine. The leitmotif of the whole tasting is the quality of these promising new vintages which, despite the short aging in the bottle, show to have interesting implications in flavours and aromas. Thus appreciable and recognizable are the freshness of the Apulian Rosés and the elegance of the Chianti Classico, the power of long-aging wines and the sunny character of the white wines of the coast. Here is the description of the companies and the wine tasting cards. 

JULY-AGUGUST 2O2O

WINE FAIR PREVIEW

Ozzano Monferrato (AL) – Cascina Cairo, 10 3468549015 – societaagricolaangelinipaolo.com Winegrowers for generations, today they manage about 40 hectares of vineyards, cultivated with Barbera, Grignolino, Nebbiolo, Bonarda, Syrah, Cortese, Viognier and Muscat grapes. A dozen labels proposed by the Angelini family, with the support of winemaker Mario Ronco. The area of interest are the hills of Monferrato Casalese, suitable for viticulture.

M.to Bianco Synphonia ‘18

Blend of viognier and chardonnay, lends sensations of white flowers and exotic fruits; savoury with good acidity and structure.

Grignolino del M.to Casalese Golden Arbian Monferace ‘15

From pure grignolino, it tastes of rose and pepper, it unravels on the palate with great elegance, keeping together richness, flavour, tannic progression and freshness.

BEL COLLE Verduno (CN) – fraz. Castagni, 56 0172470196 – belcolle.eu In 1976 brothers Carlo and Franco Pontiglione and Giuseppe Priola founded Bel Colle, owned by Bosio Family Estates since 2015. The company base is in Borgo Castagni, a hamlet of Verduno, while the vineyards also insist on the territories of La Morra, Treiso and Barbaresco, with some cru of absolute prestige, such as the legendary Monvigliero.

Langhe Nas-Cëtta ‘19

It tastes of chamomile, cedar and tropical fruits, acacia honey and thyme. In the mouth, the freshness floods the palate and persists thanks to its sapidity.

Nebbiolo d’Alba La Reala ‘18

Rich in polyhedric hints of violet and licorice, it plays on a fruity body and pulp that’s barely hinted at, in no way detracting from the purity of its tannic texture.

CASCINA ALBERTA Treiso (CN) – via Alba, 5 0173638047 – calberta.it Cascina Alberta’s wine-making process, which began in 2010, continues positively, with its 4,000 bottles of Barbaresco Giacone produced in certified organic agriculture at its core. At the helm are Francesco and Luca Guernani who also manage a beautiful agriturismo .

Barbaresco Giacone ‘17

The expression is floral sensations of violet, notes of spices and licorice. On the palate it’s full and intense with a tannic structure that gives persistence to the palate..

Barbera d’Alba Sup. Tres ‘17

Complex and fresh in its aromas of red fruits. The tannins are not at all intrusive.

GAMBERO ROSSO

RABEZZANA

Turin

Piedmont

PAOLO ANGELINI

JULY-AGUGUST 2O2O

via San Francesco d’Assisi 23 - 011543070 osteriarabezzana.it It was a dance hall in 1911, then it became a wine bottling plant in the postwar period, now it’s an osteria with a Piedmontese cuisine and a wine list with more than 900 labels, in addition to the Monferrato wines which the owners produce (since 1876). Many fine vintage bottles.

ROSSORUBINO via Madama Cristina, 21 0116502183 - rossorubino. net In just over three decades, since it was born in 2003, Rosso Rubino has transformed itself from a wine shop (immediately fantastic) into a model of wine bar-enoteca (alongside the shop and glasses there is now a articulated dining offer) definitely categorized as 3.0. Without renouncing the human factor at all - it is the motto of the house and the two founders, Edoardo and Andrea - the company has extended its domain to the web, launching a kind of e-shop in which, in addition to the classic digital “shopping cart”, there’s also a live video call, so that customers feel “inside” Rosso and have someone from the team to speak and assist them vocally and be fully dedicated to them. The work plan then includes wine knowledge courses, events, tastings, pairing lessons. The team’s discoveries and classic Piedmont, top and minor Italy, Spain, France (a lot of Champagne) and Germany coexist on the shelves and especially in the daily list of the drinkables by the glass, with a ductility mirroring the ecumenical curiosity of those at the helm.

SIGNORVINO via G. L. Lagrange, 13 0114407490 - signorvino. com One of the most beautiful shops in the Signorvino chain where the experience

top italian restaurants www.gamberorosso.it/en/restaurants/

b GamberoRossoInternational x GamberoRossoInternational sponsor

WINE FAIR PREVIEW

GOZZELINO

Moscato d’Asti Bruna ‘19

A great wine with a broad and intense aroma, with references to wisteria, white flowers, sweet almond and sage. An intense and musky white.

LA CANTINA

Asti

Costigliole d’Asti (AT) – s.da Bricco Lù, 7 0141966134 – gozzelinovini.com It’s a centuries-old story that links the Gozzelino family to the lands that in the past belonged to the Marquis Asinari, on the hills of Costigliole d’Asti. Five generations of wine producers, capable of regularly offering outspoken and territorial Barbera and Muscat wines, such as the last tasted during previews.

of wine (to be purchased and tasted) is linked to the possibility of enjoying excellent cuisine based on very well selected and seasonal ingredients with dishes designed especially to accompany the chosen wine. There are 1,500 wines on offer.

via Bernardino Palio, 13 0141530217 enotecalacantina.eu Founded by Giuseppe Gerbi in 1968, today the wine shop is managed by his daughter Claudia and grandchildren Alessandro and Alberto. The great success obtained over the years, as a result of extreme competence and passion, has led the Gerbi family to open another shop in via Gobetti, in a more central position, in addition to the historic store in via Pallio. The offer is incredible: over 3,000 labels, many of which local, with vintage depths up to the 1960s, especially for Tuscan and French bottled. Historical Monfortinos, verticals of many Gaja wines, different rarities come in contrast with more recent productions from every Italian region (about 300 producers), from Europe and the rest of the world (another 100 different names). With such a selection of wines, the spirits offer could not be less: so look for Armagnac, grappas and rum as well as good availability of Cognac, whiskey, Port and sherry. The ever expanding food offer includes specialties sought among the small and more qualified local and regional producers; a selection of vinegars and oils, typical local sweets and signature chocolates.

Barbera d’Asti Sup. Sergio ‘16

Savoury and rich in fruit, enveloping and full-bodied. It has nuances of red fruits and undergrowth, harmonious and discreet flavour.

PIO CESARE Alba (CN) – via Cesare Balbo, 6 0173440386 – piocesare.it A company history dating back to 1881, an underground cellar surrounded by 2,000 year old Roman walls, a heritage of vineyards in magnificent Langhe crus and, above all, a continuous challenge in search of the highest quality: these are the strengths of tireless Pio Boffa, validly helped by his nephew Cesare.

Barolo ‘16

A red that comes from the vineyards of the winery, located in the most important crus of Serralunga, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Novello and Monforte d’Alba. It has a palate of fine classicism, dark and rich in red berries, spicy, with thick tannins and good alcohol content.

GIOVANNI SORDO

Barolo Perno ‘16

The Nebbiolo grapes come from the most prestigious areas of the Fraction of Perno in the municipality of Monforte d’Alba. They give life to a red with spicy and licorice notes. Obvious tannins and great aromatic persistence.

Barolo Monvigliero ‘15

It has references of small fruits, sensations of sweet spices and undergrowth. Tannins and acidity are present in a very pleasant balance.

GAMBERO ROSSO

ENOTECA DELLA FOCE

Genoa

Castiglione Falletto (CN) – fraz. Garbelletto via Alba Barolo, 175 – 017362853 – sordogiovanni.it Giorgio Sordo didn’t sit on his laurels of more than centuries-old family tradition, and instead created both new acquisitions of vineyards and a cellar of rare beauty. Nebbiolo is at the centre of production, but the range goes from Roero Arneis to Langhe Sauvignon up to Alta Langa, passing through the classic Barbera and Dolcetto d’Alba.

JULY-AGUGUST 2O2O

via A. Rimassa, 143 010562525 enotecadellafoce.com Andrea Pinasco, with a degree in Agriculture Sciences from the University of Parma and many experiences in various wineries, in 2013 took over the historic Enoteca della Foce, a place that opened

GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZI DEL LAMBRUSCO

The many faces of Lambrusco from Reggio Emilia to Modena Exuberant, lively and enveloping, but at the same time Lambrusco has adapted to different historical periods also severe, deep and full of nuances. If there is a wine while keeping intact its innate and frank vocation of whose name is one with that of the grape from which being an everyday wine, of great versatility at the table, it is born, which has the ability to have multiple faces, however characterised by different nuances and pecuthis is certainly Lambrusliarities depending on co. the territories in which Along a short stretch of it grows, of the differCONSORTIUM FOR PROTECTION the Via Emilia that goes ent varieties present and OF LAMBRUSCO DI MODENA from Reggio Emilia to the different production Modena, is what can methods adopted. born: unanimously be conTherefore, it is no coincibirth of the denominations: sidered the epicenter of dence that the presence one of the most famous of two important Conpartners wines in Italy, always sortia â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Consortium known also in the main for the Protection and bottles produced international markets. Promotion of Reggiano

August 7, 1961 May 1, 1970 41 32.383.606

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AGUGUST 2O2O

GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZI DEL LAMBRUSCO

1. An image of the rows in autumn, when they fill the countryside between Modena and Reggio Emilia with a thousand colours and warm shades ranging from green to red 2. and 3. Different glasses of Lambrusco: a wine that can be declined in many forms, versatile: one of the reasons why it also has excellent appreciation abroad

tury. A goal that will soon and Colli di Scandiano and Canossa Wines and the Conalso touch the Reggiano sortium for the Protection of Lambrusco di Modena – Lambrusco DOC, born in which have the task of bringing value and safeguard1971. ing the production regulations who have now almost reached 50 years of life. In the Modena area, in fact, if CONSORTIUM FOR PROTECTION AND the Lambrusco di Modena PROMOTION OF REGGIANO AND HILLS DOC is the youngest, born OF SCANDIANO AND CANOSSA WINES in 2009, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, the Lambrusco born: Salamino di Santa Croce DOC and the Lambrusco birth of the denominations: Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC have seen their recpartners ognition in 1970 and this year celebrate half a cenbottles produced in 2019

February 25, 1972 July 22, 1971 26 11.358.066 2

 Consorzio Tutela del Lambrusco di Modena

Modena - Viale Virgilio, 55 - 059208610 - tutelalambrusco.it  Consorzio Tutela e Promozione dei vini Reggiano e Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa

GAMBERO ROSSO

It knows how to be drinkable but also severe, it knows how to adapt to different needs and different combinations: this is part of its history and it is its strength

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CHARTS

VITICOLTORI ASSOCIATI VINCHIO VAGLIO SERRA

its doors over seventy years ago in Genoa, near the Marina della Foce. Helped by his mother Angela and his sister Giulia, Andrea manages a wine shop featuring over 700 references, with an eye for organic and biodynamic productions and with a particular focus on sparkling wines produced with the Classic Method, both local and beyond the Alps. To all this we must add another 300 references from the world of liqueurs and spirits. To complete the picture there are beers whose choice is based exclusively on Italian products from small and significant breweries. In the wine shop, on the first and third Thursday of the month, free tastings are organized and often enhanced by the presence of the producers.

Vinchio (AT) – reg. San Pancrazio, 1 s.da prov.le 40 km. 3,75 – 0141950903 vinchio.com Established in the late 1950s, the Cantina Sociale di Vinchio Vaglio Serra now holds 200 grape growers who contribute to the creation of around 50 labels with over 450 hectares of vineyards. Numbers that speak volumes about the agricultural and economic importance of the cooperative.

Barbera d’Asti Sup. I Tre Vescovi ‘17

These grapes have a high sugar content which give Barbera sensations of dried fruit and woody notes, for a fresh, dynamic and gritty palate.

Barbera d’Asti V. V. 50 ‘17

Rich in fruit and with a nice acidic support, Barbera d’Asti 50 Vecchie Vigne ’16, plays on the tones of fresh red fruits and on immediacy.

Adro (BS) – via Piave 3351433774 – franciacortabelon.it Paolo Perin creates a curated range of Franciacorta from vineyards under his direct management. A selection of wines of the Franciacorta denomination with a fine and persistent perlage, the result of skilful processing, made in various dosages such as Brut, Rosé, Saten and Pas Dosé. Wines that pair well in any situation.

SIGNORVINO

Arese (MI)

Lombardia

BELÒN DU BELÒN

From chardonnay and pinot noir, this sparkling wine has an intriguing aromatic complexity reminiscent of citrus and almond. On the palate it gives great freshness due to the power of its savoury minerality.

Iper Il Centro via Giuseppe Luraghi, 11 0293876149 - signorvino.com The Arese shop has a floor area of over 300 square meters with over 70 seats and a large outdoor veranda; is located in front of the Hyper on the ground floor. The calendar is chock full of events with wine tasting in the company of the producer. The Signorvino chain offers wine bars with cuisine specializing in Italian wines (over 1,500) where you can buy, taste, drink a glass or bottle at the same takeaway price.

BOSCO LONGHINO

ENOCLUB

Franciacorta Pas Dosé Vintage 240 Mesi Riserva del Fondatore

An intense, important wine of great aromatic complexity. It’s rich in fruit and freshness, beautiful verticality, it closes with citrus and persistence.

Franciacorta Pas Dosé Vintage 120 Mesi

Milan

Santa Maria della Versa (PV) – fraz. Molino Marconi 0385798049 – boscolonghino.it Edoardo Faravelli is the progenitor, the one who started the family business in 1895 starting from 100 poles in the Molino Marconi area. Initially the farm also included arable land, fodder and cattle. After the war, Tullio, Edoardo’s son, gave new impetus to the business by planting Barbera and Croatina.

OP Pinot Nero M. Cl. Casto ‘16

Pinot noir in purity and fermentation in the bottle for a minimum of 36 months. It has delicate floral sensations, citrus and floral notes. Elegant, with an intense structure and good persistence.

353 Chardonnay ‘18

Chardonnay in purity, it has aromas of ripe fruit, spices, vanilla, almonds and hazelnuts. Satisfying, flowing and dynamic sip.

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via Friuli, 15 0255182421 enoclubmilano.com Since 1982 this is the Malfassi family reign with natural generational transitions over time. Equally over time, alongside a large selection of wines (about 4,000 labels with a beautiful underground cellar of about 300 square meters) has the business honed a rich and refined selection of food specialties. But back to wines, the Italian ones excel (Piemonte, Tuscany, Trentino Alto Adige, Sicily, Lombardy, Veneto and Campania are the ones with the greatest number of labels on the shelf) but there is also a rich selection of French and a well-

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CASTELLO DI CIGOGNOLA Cigognola (PV) – p.zza Castello, 1 0385284828 – castellodicigognola.com The Castle of Cigognola has ancient origins: founded in the year 1212, in full-on feudalism, it subsequently housed a Renaissance court, while already at the beginning of the 19th century it became a place of wine production. For some years now this place has embarked on a new path of quality thanks to an effective organisational restructuring, which refines the style and personality of the wines.

OP Pinot Nero M. Cl. ‘More Brut

On the nose it offers sensations of thyme, bread crust and white chocolate; the sip is creamy, harmonious, with a precise finish.

OP Pinot Nero M. Cl. ‘More Pas Dosé

Crisp, vigorous, sapid, fragrant with citrus and mint, with a long and sustained finish.

GIORGI Canneto Pavese (PV) – fraz. Camponoce, 39a 0385262151 – giorgi-wines.it For years now the new generation, represented by Fabiano Giorgi, his sister Eleonora and his wife Ileana - always with the careful supervision of their father Antonio - has revolutionised this winery, bringing the average production quality higher and higher and reaching absolute excellence especially with the Classic Method made with pinot nero.

OP Pinot Nero Brut M. Cl. 1870 ‘14

Hints of sage, mint, apricot and vanilla. Harmonious on the palate, rich and velvety, with a vivid backbone and a fine and long texture.

Top Zero Pas Dosé M. Cl.

Complex and elegant bouquet with notes of white flowers and vanilla. Sapid and well-structured, it has a dry and well-balanced finish.

kept assortment of international labels. The range of spirits is also interesting. For fans, the historical vintages of Sassicaia, San Leonardo, Ornellaia, Solaia and Monfortino are worth mentioning. They organize approach to wine courses (three per year) and there’s a very rich and highly attended weekly calendar of events, to which one can subscribe via newsletter. Every Saturday there are free tastings with the proposal of different producers. In combination with delicious and varied appetizers.

WINERIA p.zza C. Caneva, 4 0239464196 - wineria.it In 2012 Stefano Rimassa decided to leave his work as a journalist in a publishing house to devote himself fully to his passion. With the help of his brother and wife and some partners, he threw himself in the adventure of his wine shop, giving it from day one well-defined guidelines. In fact, among the 400 labels you will not find the classic names of Italian wine, but only the labels of small artisans out of the large-scale distribution, all in small quantities; a research wine list, based on the personal knowledge of the producers and on the tastings carried out personally during the year. There is no online shop yet but Stefano and his partners are evaluating something new: the possibility of having a preview purchase at a discounted price on wines which will then be available on the shelf. At Wineria you can also go for an aperitif: in fact, in addition to the take out menu, it’s possible to taste some bottles paired with small delicious dishes. During the year they periodically hold courses to approach wine.

SIGNORVINO via Dante, 15 0289095369 - signorvino. com After the first store opening in the Duomo area, the store (and restaurant) in the pedestrian area of Via Dante has also been open for a while, a stone’s throw

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO DI TUTELA DEL PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA

Primitivo di Manduria conquers international palates

The wine’s birth date is relatively recent, considering the area historically suited to wine, but the international and not only Italian success has provided a great boost. So, in 1998 a dozen companies (today there are 57, including cooperatives) created the Consortium for the Protection of the Primitivo di Manduria which in 2002 obtained the Ministry’s recognition. The area in question covers 18 municipalities between Taranto and Brindisi and within it there are different types of wines produced: Primitivo di Manduria Dop, Primitivo di Manduria Dop Riserva and Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale Docg. At the end of 2015, the Consortium obtained from the Minister of Agricultural and Forestry Policies also the exclusive assignment of coordinating the functions of protection, promotion, enhancement, surveillance, consumer information and general care of interests: the famous “Erga Omnes” for the Primitivo di Manduria Doc and for the natural sweet Docg. To underline the international success of Primitivo di Manduria, it should be noted that the repression of deceptive and counterfeited brands has tripled in the last year.

GAMBERO ROSSO

ITHE CONSORTIUM IN NUMBERS

57 wineries 1.000 producers More than 4,000 hectares planted in vines 18 municipalities (Taranto and Brindisi) 17 million litres produced 23 million bottles 2019 production is up + 12% compared to 2018 In the face of the wine’s appreciation, there is also the valuable work of the DOC, a task for which the Consortium has designed a series of projects and investments with campaigns and events both locally and abroad.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO DI TUTELA DEL PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA

The vines are in a unique territory rich in history and particularly suited to viticulture. The red-coloured soil gradually becomes more sandy as it approaches the sea. The typical appearance of the vines here takes the form of the alberello (ancient historical form of farming) up to one and a half meters high.

Characteristics of the grape and the wine Primitivo di Manduria is characterised by fairly contained yield, which allows the grapes to express an intense aroma. The resulting wine has an intense red colour which in its youth tends towards bright purple; the nose is characterised by aromas of red fruit and small berries, accompanied by a pleasant spicy background. In the mouth itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich, warm, deep, with enveloping fruity aromas, good tannic texture and balanced freshness. The finish is surprisingly persistent for a wine of this structure.

Alberello amid soil and sea

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Primitivo di Manduria was born in a large territory between the provinces of Taranto and Brindisi. The soil, here, is red due to the presence of ferrous skeleton with limestone peaks in the subsoil, and becomes more loose (practically sandy) in the districts closest to the sea. Here the primitivo plant grows luxuriantly in the forms of the alberello, the oldest vine growing system. Traditionally, this vine is bred so that it develops on three arms, no more than 1.5 meters high.

CHARTS

Aquileia (UD) – via Beligna, 41 0431919700 – catullio.it Within the prestigious archaeological area of Aquileia stands a large brick building erected at the beginning of the last century originally used for drying tobacco. In 1994 it was purchased by Paolo Calligaris and transformed into a modern and functional winery: half of the vineyard park is located here, while the remaining part extends over the Manzano hills.

FCO Ribolla Gialla ‘19

Fresh and floral nose, with flavours of acacia and citrus flowers. Fragrant, pleasant and remarkably easy to drink wine.

Friuli Aquileia Traminer Aromatico ‘19

from Castello Sforzesco, also in the outdoor terrace. The shelves dedicated to wines (100% Italian) are divided by region. The labels can be purchased for take out, enjoy by the glass (about twenty) or bottles for the table, perhaps tasting one of the ad hoc menus.

OSTERIE MODERNE

Padova

Friuli Venezia Giulia

CA’ TULLIO

Campodarsego loc. Sant’Andrea via Bassa II, 18 0495565236 osteriemoderne.it Luca Olivan, with experience in TV production and commerce, about twenty years ago was struck by the world of fine wine and food and took over a large restaurant in the countryside just north of Padua, giving birth to the Osterie Moderne. A place that combines a traditional and well-executed cuisine with a deep passion for wine, characterized by a twenty-year promotion and tasting activity proposed almost weekly. If the wine list is in constant transformation between great classics and new trends, it is precisely the dense network of tasting appointments that characterizes the Osterie, with events that allow the tasting of the greatest Tuscan reds Monday after Monday, perhaps followed by the Chiaretto del Garda, from the most important brands of Champagne to the wines of the Atesina cooperation or of the Mediterranean islands, in a journey of constant research. The food offer is also very important, however limited to only the products used in the kitchen.

It smells of wild flowers and stands out for its typicality and ease of drinking.

TENIMENTI CIVA Povoletto (UD) – fraz. Bellazoia via Subida, 16 – 04321770382 tenimenticiva.com The escalation of Tenimenti Civa continues by leaps and bounds. It was just 2016 when Valerio Civa entered the regional wine world, taking over a cellar and a large number of vineyards in Bellazoia di Povoletto and surroundings. The company headquarters has been joined by a new production structure, equipped with cutting-edge equipment.

FCO Sauvignon Vign. Bellazoia ‘17

The nose is surprising for its bouquet of citrus fruits, flowers and passion fruit. On the palate it’s light and soft, and very easy to drink.

FCO Refosco P. R. Vign. Bellazoia ‘17

Enveloping and intense nose, lots of red fruit, undergrowth, violet, raspberries and blackberries. Spicy finish with aftertaste of cloves and graphite. On the palate it’s intense and delicate at the same time.

MONVIERT

FCO Friulano Monviert ‘18

It tastes of pineapple, linden blossom and honey. On the palate it develops in a fresh and savoury structure, and then continues with a long elegant persistence that asks for another sip.

FCO Schioppettino Monviert ‘16

Hints of red fruits, currants, cherries and blackberries. On the palate it is fresh and soft, with silky tannins that are never intrusive, and which accompany the sip.

GAMBERO ROSSO

GRADO 12

Trento

Cividale del Friuli (UD) – via Strada di Spessa, 8 – 0432716172 – monviert.com Stefania, Alessio and Chiara Zorzettig manage the family business, known until 2018 as Ronchi San Giuseppe, which is now called Monviert. The same brand identifies the production line of wines subject to careful selections, while the traditional line is called Martagona.

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l.go G. Carducci, 12 0461982496 enotecagrado12.it In Trento it’s a must, the place of wine par excellence. It has been this way for almost a century, since wine was poured directly from the barrels on the ground floor of this historic building in the city center. And where a young Bruno Lunelli learned the job of wine shop. Yes, the very Lunelli who in 1952 bought the brand and procedures from Giulio Ferrari to relaunch per-

WINE FAIR PREVIEW

OBIZ

haps the most renowned classic sparkling wine in Italy. It’s no coincidence then that the wine shop was called Lunelli, until the sale, in 2000, to a group of young enthusiasts. Who only renewed the furniture, further enhancing the offer. Merit of Mario Demattè and Fabio Leali, two enthusiastic lovers of good drinking, assisted by Luca Torta and Nicola Loizzo, experts not only in wines or spirits, but also in coffee and confectionery delights. On the shelves over 1,500 labels, practically the most accurate selection of the vast wine world, with adequate space for the cellars of Trentino, without neglecting the myriad of spirits - local, domestic and international - for a choice that ranges from almost 500 references. Comparative micro-tastings and cultural moments are held weekly to spread the pleasure of wine.

Cervignano del Friuli (UD) b.go Gortani, 2 – 043131900 – obiz.it Yunmani Bergamasco manages the 25 hectares of vineyards that surround the historic cellar dating back to 1718. Obiz gets its name from the Venetian banker Tommaso Obizzi, who in 1505 bought land in the area of the current denomination Friuli Aquileia.

Ribolla Gialla ’18

Delicate bouquet, with notes of acacia flowers, light citrus and spicy hints. Definitely dry, fresh and lively taste, harmonious and pleasant drinkable finish.

Friuli Aquileia Refosco P.R. ‘17

Fruity notes of morello cherry, wild blackberry and undergrowth prevail. Sapid, tannic and full-bodied taste, lending an enveloping and pleasant aftertaste.

ZORZETTIG

FCO Refosco P.R. Myò ‘15

Great structure, sweet tannins and on the nose has pleasant tones of tobacco, chocolate, plum and smoky notes.

FCO Ribolla Gialla ‘18

Aromas of ripe white fruit, in the mouth it is gritty, refined, energetic and full of flavour.

GAMBERO ROSSO

ENOTECA ITALIANA

Bologna

Cividale del Friuli (UD) – fraz. Spessa s.da Sant’Anna, 37 – 0432716156 - zorzettigvini.it Annalisa Zorzettig is a classic example of successful female entrepreneurship, while her brother Alessandro loves the silence of the vineyards and contact with nature. Together they manage the winery founded by their father Giuseppe, who in 1986 had the opportunity to acquire an old farmhouse, settled there with his family and quickly transformed it into a modern and functional reality.

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via Marsala, 2b 051235989 enotecaitaliana.it The wine shop opened in 1972 in the heart of Bologna, a stone’s throw from via Indipendenza, in a central yet slightly out of the way area of the city, creating a nice atmosphere. The architects are Marco Nannetti and Franco Casini, who were then replaced by Claudio Cavallari. Today Marco and Claudio manage one of the historical places of the city that over time has changed its skin by renewing itself and anticipating some trends, such as becoming a wine bar, as early as 1994: a counter where different labels are poured together with a slender wine list, but always of great quality and a selection of local products such as prosciutto, mortadella and Parmigiano Reggiano. But the beauty of the place does not end here: the large spaces are in fact full of bottles for a rich and complete offer, which allows you to spend an entire afternoon among the shelves, even just to browse. In addition Champagne, grappas, Cognacs, whiskeys, calvados, rums, craft beers; but also handmade pasta, typical sweets, jams, sauces and pickles.

CHARTS

Veneto

Susegana (TV) – via Barriera, 41 043864462 – colsandago.it Avant-garde facility, equipped with absolutely innovative gear, reaches high quality standards in the production of spumanti, sparkling and still wines. The careful tending of the vineyards and the various farming practices take place in full respect of nature.

Piacenza

TAVERNA DEL GUSTO

COL SANDAGO

via Taverna Giuseppe, 27 0523332814 tavernadelgusto.it What strikes at first sight is the extraordinary “aesthetic contrast” between the environment - that is, the premises of a 17th-century building - and the soberly modern furnishings, with a predominance of red. The mastermind behind it all is Andrea Libè, who sixteen years ago opened this wine shop with kitchen in the center of Piacenza starting from his passion for wines and typical food products. Today the wine cellar boasts 1,400 references, many of which are also served by the glass, with particular attention, as well as - obviously - the wines of the Piacenza valleys, Champagne and meditation wines, one of Andrea’s passions. As far as the gastronomic department is concerned, in the foreground is the excellence of Piacenza and Emilian delicatessen, starting from the black pig from which salamis are made, the 22 months seasoned pancetta and coppa seasoned over two years directly within the Taverna; then culatello di Zibello and Langhirano ham aged 40 months. There is also a wide selection of cheeses; and obviously fresh homemade pasta.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene V. del Cuc Brut

On the nose it has intense aromas of apple, pear and wild flowers, which translate into a dry, taut and long-lasting sip.

Wildbacher ’13

Wildbacher is agrape variety of Austrian origin that only very few wineries produce in Italy. Col Sandago offers a 2013 version with intense aromas of wild fruits and spices that is striking for the sip’s acid character.

CONTE COLLALTO Susegana (TV) – via XXIV Maggio, 1 0438435811 – cantine-collalto.it Isabella Collalto De Croÿ leads the historic winery with a 160-hectare vineyard in the hills, where viticulture is not hegemonic but intersects pasture, the forest, rare olive groves and even more rare dwellings.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Sup. Rive di Collalto Isabella Brut ‘18

Scents of apple, pear and rose hit the palate governing sweetness and acidity with harmony and length.

Piave Cabernet Torrai Ris. ‘15

MONTELVINI Volpago del Montello (TV) fraz. Venegazzù – via Cal Trevigiana, 51 – 04238777 – montelvini.it The Serena family winery embarked on a virtuous journey of valorising Prosecco and the Asolo area. The wines have aromas of good fruity sharpness that reveal the strength of the territory through the sapidity of the sip.

Asolo Prosecco Sup. Collezione Serenitas Extra Brut ‘18

The Extra Brut Serenitas is good, delicate in the aromas of white fruit and flowers, conquered by the solidity and sapidity of the sip.

Montello Colli Asolani Manzoni Bianco Zuitér Collezione Vintage ‘18

Tropical fruit on the nose; dry on the palate: softness and structure integrate well with sapidity and minerality. Good complexity on the palate.

GAMBERO ROSSO

ENOTECA ALESSI DAL 1952

Firenze

Nuances of small berries, enhanced by a balsamic note. The tannic component stands out on the palate, balanced and dosed by the marked acidity and dense and calibrated pulp.

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via delle Oche, 27/31r 055214966 - enotecaalessi. it The wine shop was opened in 1952 by Paride and Napolino Alessi, first in via De Neri as a warehouse and distribution, then moved to via delle Oche, in its current location, in the Seventies. It was one of the first shops in Florence to obtain the recognition of Florentine Historical Business, with the “mission” of maintaining the particularities of the shop, without distorting its nature. Half a century later, the shop still retains a part of the furnishings, shelves and display cases, crafted by Alessi and collaborators. The current management is Giorgio’s with his son Massimo, ready to take the baton. In July 2007, the wine bar was annexed to

GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO CHIANTI COLLI FIORENTINI

On the hills of Florence a Chianti that speaks organic COLLI FIORENTINI IN NUMBERS

610 hectares 44 producers (10 outside of the Consortium)

15.780 hectolitres (average 20152019) Production/year

982.00 (average 2015-2019) Bottles/year

The Chianti Colli Fiorentini territory covers a geographical area of 51,300 hectares, approximately 11% of the entire Chianti area: the hills around Florence from Montelupo Fiorentino to Fiesole passing through Lastra a Signa, Scandicci, Impruneta, Bagno a Ripoli, Rignano sull’Arno and Pontassieve, with three offshoots towards the south: Montespertoli, San Casciano Val di Pesa, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, up to Certaldo and Barberino Val d’Elsa; Incisa and Figline Val d’Arno and a narrow strip of territory from Pelago to Reggello. The “Vinum Florentinum” was produced already from the first centuries of the Christian age, and up to 50 years ago farms cultivated by sharecroppers were splendid vine gardens and olive groves interrupted by wheat and forage fields. Today mechanisation requires new geometric models for vineyards and olive groves. To protect these hills between 150 and 350 meters, the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Consortium was born in 1994 thanks to a small group of wine producers with the aim of improving quality and promoting the denomination. Under the symbol of the “Marzocco” (the rampant lion on the Tower of Palazzo Vecchio in Florence) over the years the Consortium has gained increasing consent, so much that since December 2004 the Mipaaf has assigned “Protection” for its denomination. There are 34 member wineries, 28 of which bottle directly. The Consortium’s strong point is the presence of organic farms (more than 50%) which in the short term could have an interesting request also from the GDO. .

Grapes used 70 - 100% sangiovese Max 30% red berried vines

registered in the Tuscan Register and white berried grape varieties up to (individually or jointly) 10%

Max 10% grape varieties such as cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon

Grapes produced: max 9 ton/ha Wineries present at Anteprima Fiere del Vino La Querce laquerce.com Fattoria Castelvecchio castelvecchio.it Castello di Volognano volognano.com Tenuta San Vito san-vito.com Fattoria San Michele a Torri fattoriasanmichele.it Tenuta il Corno tenutailcorno.com

 Consorzio Chianti Colli Fiorentini - Firenze - viale Belfiore, 9

0553245750 - chianti-collifiorentini.it

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CHARTS

LA TORDERA

the shop, with few seats and twenty wines on the bar counter with an almost weekly rotation. The selection of spirits is truly wide and varied, capable of satisfying even the most demanding enthusiasts. On the floor below a suggestive cellar dedicated to wines from all Italian regions, with an in-depth analysis of Tuscany: the assortment focuses on the best known and “safe” companies and on undisputed success labels.

Vidor (TV) – via Alnè Bosco, 23 0432985362 – latordera.it The Vettoretti siblings Gabriella, Paolo and Renato, have developed the family business founded in 2001. Today they count on an important wine-growing platform which explores some of the most beautiful expositions in the area, even with top-level wine growers. The new winery is certified CasaClima Wine and the management of the vineyards follows an organic regimen.

Valdobbiadene Rive di Guia Otreval Brut ‘18

Wide and fruity with sensations ranging from apple and pear, to a delicate mineral note. Intense with good structure and pleasant acid freshness.

BOTTIGLIERIA VIGNOLI via Cimabue, 9r 0552343220 @enotecavignoli Founded in 1970, it celebrates its half century of activity. A reference point in the city for enthusiasts and not only, it’s also among the reference wine bars for Florentine hotels and restaurants, both for the supply and for the drafting of the wine lists, which Vasco, the owner, personally takes care of. Difficult to estimate the number of labels between display and warehouse; there are several thousands that cover the Italian territory, with a “dutiful” study on the Tuscan territory. The selection of foreign wines is also excellent: not only France, the United States, Australia and Chile, but also South Africa, New Zealand, Spain and other lesser-known areas. French sparkling wine lovers will find a wide range of Champagnes that’s very reassuring for the accuracy in the choice of maisona and vignerons. Orderly, welcoming environment, with wooden shelves high up to the ceiling to create a warm place with a slightly retro charm.

Valdobbiadene Rive di Vidor Tittoni Dry ‘18

It has hints of ripe yellow apple, plum, white flowers, with a predominance of white rose and light spiciness. Intense and noble structure.

CANTINA PRODUTTORI DI VALDOBBIADENE - VAL D’OCA Valdobbiadene (TV) – via San Giovanni, 45 0423982070 – valdoca.com Born in post-WWII period, the great Valdobbiadene cooperative boasts more than sixty years of history and today is one of the main protagonists in the world of Prosecco Superiore. More than a thousand hectares of vineyards are cultivated by a small army of wine growers who work day after day in a territory that recently became a world heritage site.

Valdobbiadene Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Brut

Fresh and with good sapidity, this Brut has refined aromas and is dominated by the characteristic expression of golden variety apple and flowers found in a dry sip, with good tension and very long finish.

VALDO SPUMANTI

Valdobbiadene Rive di S. Pietro di Barbozza Brut Nature

Appreciated for its aromatic amplitude and the harmony of the sip, perfectly supported by acidity and a thick and creamy presence of bubbles.

Valdobbiadene Numero 10 M. Cl. Brut

Nice fruity sensation and sweet spices that are perfectly expressed in a creamy palate with good persistence.

GAMBERO ROSSO

ENOTECA VANNI

Lucca

Valdobbiadene (TV) – via Foro Boario, 20 04239090 – valdo.com Founded in 1926, the Società Anonima Vini Superiori was acquired by the Veronese Bolla family a few years later, but the appearance of the Valdo brand happened in 1951. Therefore, the historic Valdobbiadene company has been run by the Bolla family for more than ninety years and today the helm is in the hands of Pierluigi, who has made it one of the most reliable businesses in the area.

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p.zza San Salvatore, 7 0583491902 enotecavanni.com The wine shop has been in the center of Lucca since 1965, since when Giampiero and Giulietta opened the resale of bulk wine in this historic building. Giampiero then began to research and collect bottles of the finest wines. So now his son Paolo Petroni, who continues the work of his parents, has a patrimony of histor-

WINE FAIR PREVIEW

ZARDETTO

ical labels that rests perfectly in the centuries-old cellar. The tunnels, rooms full of shelves alone deserve a visit, however stopping at the wood bar counter and the shelves located at the entrance to welcome the many visitors, foreigners and Italians, who come to this monument to the culture of wine. Nowadays bulk wine has given way to an extraordinary assortment of bottles, the result of a passionate research and selection that brings Paolo into contact with the producers and with a world full of stories and humanity. Wine above all, but also a good choice of spirits, all perfectly ordered also on the shop’s website to allow quick online purchases. .

Conegliano (TV) – via Martiri delle Foibe, 18 0438394969 – zardettoprosecco.com The company was founded in 1969, created by Pino Zardetto, a tireless winemaker passionate about spumante wine. At the helm now is his son Fabio, also an oenologist and tireless experimenter. The modern winery, specializes in bubbles, and selects the best grapes from the Conegliano area.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Refosso Brut ‘19

A Brut that expresses aromas of white fruit, flowers and lime. Delicate perlage, while on the palate it is dry and of good length.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Rive di Ogliano Tre Venti Brut ‘18

Produced with glera grapes from the most beautiful vineyards of Ogliano, boasts aromas of apple and flowers that are enhanced in a dry and bold palate.

Emilia Romagna

Torriana (RN) – fraz. Montebello di Poggio Torriana – via Casone, 35 0541675515 – tenutasaiano.it Extraordinary place from every point of view: a visit to Tenuta Saiano cheers the heart, there is no doubt. The territory is in the hills of Rimini near Torriana, in a context that sees vines snatching portions of land from the woods and dividing the limelight with olive groves.

Perugia

BERESAPERE

TENUTA SAIANO

Colli di Rimini Rebola L’Animo ‘18

From pure rebola, it speaks through mineral notes and iodine perfumes. Complex, white bouquet that’s easy to drink, fresh and immediate, reminiscent of the sea and the Apennines in a carefree tone.

Romagna Sangiovese Sup. Montebello Ris. ‘16

Sangiovese in purity, with a lively, elegant fruit. Beautiful structure but also great freshness.

CANTINA VALTIDONE Borgonovo Val Tidone (PC) – via Moretta, 58 0523846411 – cantinavaltidone.it Compared to many cooperatives that have their roots at the beginning of the last century, Cantina Valtidone is relatively recent. It was founded in fact by 16 partners in 1966, at the gates of Borgonovo Val Tidone where it is still located, with a gradual expansion of the spaces, the renewal of equipment and overall growth. 50 Vendemmie is the top line, with the most traditional wines.

50 Vendemmie Malvasia

Smells of musk, sage, ripe plum and wild flowers; sparkling, soft and pleasantly persistent.

Gutturnio Bollo Rosso Ris. ‘16

Fruity, spicy and deep, balanced in the mouth thanks to good freshness and calibrated tannic texture. A wine of character.

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via Mentana, 43 0755056053 - beresapere.it Gabriele Ricci Alunni was, for many years, president of AIS Umbria. Understandable, therefore, that at some point he thought of investing in his knowledge and opened his own wine shop (in 2006). The name says a lot: it’s a place of sale but also of spreading the culture of the god Bacchus. The shelves and overall space always very accurately decorated, full of proposals on every front. The labels are around 2,000, including wines from current vintages and old millesimes, ordered by geographical origin. There is no shortage of great whiskeys, rums, grappas, gins, mezcal and other spirits; as well as craft beers, cured meats, cheeses, truffles, sauces and jams, chocolates, coffee, spices, salts and peppers. Frequent tasting nights. The place is also a distribution spot, capable of fast deliveries and shipments, and dining advice for everything related to the wine list. Today Gabriele is helped by his son Gionata and by Luca Paolucci.

PASQUALE GIULI via F.lli Rosselli, 228 0734687108 @LEnoteca-di-Giuli-Pasquale It won’t be hard to spot the large windows that characterise the place that host the wine shop along the busy Adriatic state road. In the large interior spaces

GAMBERO ROSSO X SIGNORVINO

SIGNORVINO Cellar with Kitchen Seasonal and quality cuisine paying close attention to pairings

Signorvino is a point of reference in many Italian cities for all food and wine lovers and for all those who have the curiosity to discover the magical world of wine, its flavours and aromas with ease, having fun and experiencing the best of Italian production always at affordable prices. In fact, Signorvino is not only a wine shop: in the Signorvino shops, it’s possible to buy a bottle for any occasion, but also a place to have lunch or dinner, enjoy an aperitif tasting new wine pairings, participate in lessons, Tastings, Masterclasses or spend an evening together thanks to over 1,000 events organized year round. In all the stores it’s possible to find more than 1,500 representative Italian labels from areas of the greatest wine vocation, big names and very small wineries that are often unavailable (therefore become available to everyone) one step away from home and in the most iconic points of the Italian cities.

 Signorvino - signorvino.com

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Great attention paid to the dishes on offer and the perfect combination of wine and food is Signorvino’s primary goal. The research begins with the choice of serious and careful producers who guarantee the highest quality standards. «Thanks to our Food Specialists there’s a direct control of the production chain and a personal relationship with those who work every day to deliver fresh and genuine products - explain the managers of the chain - The menus, in continuous evolution, present seasonal dishes, typical of local tradition, but always with an innovative aspect thanks to studies carried out directly in the kitchen. We are also proud to offer a large selection of PDO and PGI cured meats and cheeses from all over Italy and Slow Food Presidia with the ambition of becoming a guarantee for customers who wish to have fun with simple but tasty pairings».

WINE FAIR PREVIEW

Porto San Giorgio (FM)

there is a summary of his long career as a representative and enoteca owner. The most evident trace is found in the many regional references where nothing is left to chance in terms of Marche beverages. On the long shelves, the best Italian wines but good space is also reserved for France (good presence of Champagne), Germany and other suitable wine-growing areas. Part of the shelves is dedicated to Italian craft beers as well as a well stocked niche dedicated to spirits. Artisan delicacies such as jam, chocolate and olive oil from small artisan productions are also available for purchase.

IMPERATORI

Terricciola (PI) – via del Chianti, 6 0587658505 – badiadimorrona.it The property belongs to the Gaslini Alberti family since 1939, but the production turnaround, in terms of quality and style, is obviously more recent. The beauty of the whole is not a new fact, starting with the abbey dating back to the year 1000 (initially a Benedictine convent) and something like 600 hectares of land in Terricciola, between the territories of Pisa and Volterra.

Chianti I Sodi del Paretaio ‘18

A red that is ready for a pleasantsip, juicy on hints of wild plums and fine spices, not at all short and very slender.

Terre di Pisa Sangiovese VignAlta ‘16

Redolent of ripe red fruits, well blended with spicy sensations of pepper. In the mouth it’s juicy and tapered and with a nice finish.

ALFONSO BALDETTI Cortona (AR) – loc. Pietraia, 71a 057567077 – baldetti.com The winery was one of the first to bottle in the early Seventies after Mario Baldetti, Alfonso’s father, had replanted the vineyards. The family is strongly linked to Tuscany and in particular to the territory of Cortona, where it has focused mainly on syrah, the reference grape for all the producers in the area.

Cortona Syrah Crano ‘16

It presents slightly smokynotes on the nose, hints of leather, then fruity crisp cherry and mild sensations of pepper. Tense mouth, with well inserted tannins, long and intriguing finish.

Cortona Sangiovese Marius ‘17

Intense aromas of pepper and berries, good body, fine tannins and long finish.

GAMBERO ROSSO

p.zza M. Armellini, 15 0683794671 - imperatori.biz High-level bar, wine bar and wine shop, good reference also for shopping thanks to a rich gastronomy counter that offers cheeses and cured meats, selected dairy products, sauces and fresh preparations as well as selected flours, dried pasta, preserves, biscuits, tea and chocolate. The wine shop, with hundreds of references between big brands and small productions, has a spectacular corridor where the bottles are displayed. At the wine bar it’s possible to enjoy aperitifs with selections of specialties and high-level sandwiches. At the indoor tables, or in the pleasant outdoor area, one can taste Piemontese cheeses, hand-cut Cinta Senese ham, selections of seafood specialties, accompanied by a glass of wine or a well-made drink. Rich calendar of events and tastings.

Rome

Tuscany

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LUCANTONI l.go di Vigna Stelluti, 33 063293743 - webdivino.it Stefano Lucantoni manages this beautiful wine shop to the fullest, opened in 1961 by Silvio, Marino and Francesco who together decided to open a place to drink well and offer the best labels of the world’s wine heritage. For food and wine enthusiasts this temple offers over 3,000 references from the most renowned plac-

CHARTS

CAPARSA Radda in Chianti (SI) – loc. Case Sparse Caparsa, 47 – 0577738174 – caparsa.it Caparsa is the winery of Paolo Cianferoni, who, together with his family, has been running it since 1982. Located in the sub-area of Radda in Chianti, the winery, founded by Father Reginaldo Cianferoni in 1965, produces wines that look at tradition enthusiastically, with everything that follows. In the vineyard organic farming method is applied to say the least with rigor.

Chianti Cl. ‘17

A traditional and typical wine, with aromas of earth and flowers. In the mouth the wine is savory and of good flowability, for a quick sip.

Chianti Cl. Caparsino Ris. ‘17

The nose plays on floral tones, especially purple, and fruit, well defined. Good drinkability, acidity in the forefront, tannins are noticeable but measured.

LAMOLE DI LAMOLE Greve in Chianti (FI) – loc. Lamole 0559331256 – lamole.com The Santa Margherita Veneto Group is one of the most significant national wine-growing realities and has estates in various areas of Italy. In Tuscany, there are two wineries in the Chianti Classico area, Lamole di Lamole, in the sub-area by the same name in the Greve in Chianti area, and Villa Vistarenni, in Gaiole. Despite the numbers, Chianti production is characterised by a precise and modern style.

Chianti Cl. Ris. ‘15

Distinct aromas of berries and cherry that anticipate a juicy and savoury taste progression, supported by a beautiful acid verve.

Chianti Cl. Et. Blu ‘17

A wine that is immediately pleasant on the nose, intense and clean, and which finds perfect correspondence in a tasty and well-balanced mouth.

RIDOLFI Montalcino (SI) – loc. Mercatali 05771698333 – ridolfimontalcino.it The beautiful production adventure of the Peretti family is based on the historic estates near the Mercatali di Montalcino village. All the vineyards are located on the north-east side of the Montalcino hill and there are clones mainly for grand aging. The vineyards planted after 2013 are positioned at 300 meters above sea level close to the famous Brunello road.

Brunello di Montalcino ‘15

Warm and luxuriant; with its hints of plum and morello cherry, which are supported by the dry and glyceric development of the sip.

Rosso di Montalcino ‘18

Convincing with its jovial fruit and floral grace, including some smoky and resinous contrasts.

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es in the wine sector: bottles from the main Italian districts, but also lots from France, Germany and beautiful realities of the new world. In addition, you can get lost browsing the wide selection of spirits, liqueurs and grappas of the best brands. The important gastronomic offer ranges from pasta to preserves, from sweets to anchovies and smoked salmon of great value, carefully selected and offered at very fair prices for the high quality. The section of the online website is very well structured, showing the most advantageous prices on the web.

BUCCONE via di Ripetta, 19 063612154 enotecabuccone.com Just recently celebrating 50 years of brilliant and honoured work, the brand rightly attracts wine enthusiasts and customers from Rome and from all over the world who visit the wine shop every day a few steps from Piazza del Popolo. At the beginning it was Domenico Buccone and Maddalena Trimani who took over the shop, giving life to the first city bar that served great wines, Champagne and tasty plates to the artists and intellectuals who crowded the square. Nowadays as then history continues sitting at the tables (the proposals in the bar vary from month to month accompanied by carefully selected artisan products and a small menu with tasty and original dishes) and among the shelves, where the labels are more than 1,000 from all over the world, with a particular eye to those of Lazio. Think “Cesanese”, “bellone”, “Grechetto”, “Malvasia puntinata” among the most important and famous and “Lecinaro”, “Aleatico” and “Passerina” varieties parade to continue with the more particular ones. But we don’t live of wine alone, and so the assortment is completed with food and gastronomic specialties starting from extra virgin olive oil, vinegars and sweets and traditional specialties for every occasion. Among the spirits, sambuca, limoncello, amaro, white or barrique grappa, whiskey and vodka. Preparing for

WINE FAIR PREVIEW

VARRAMISTA

future celebrations, the program of popular activities “in honour” of wine is constantly updated on the company’s social platforms.

Montopoli in Val d’Arno (PI) - loc. Varramista via Ricavo – 057144711 - varramista.it The estate of Varramista has an ancient history, which dates back to the Fifteenth century. The villa that still constitutes the central part of the winery was completed in 1589. In the 1900s it was purchased by the Agnelli and Piaggio families, who enhance its farming and agritourism parts.

TRIMANI via Goito, 20 064469661 - trimani.com Among the oldest shops of Italian wine, with a constant activity that began back in 1821. Today the work is carried out brilliantly by Paolo, Carla and Francesco Trimani. The former is one of the best Italian palates, always looking for new labels and tasty ideas to offer, Carla is the queen of the adjacent wine bar with a perfectly balanced cuisine offe, while Francesco manages all and square the circle. The wine shop is spacious and elegant and offers yards of shelves full of the best Italian and foreign labels. The selection is impressive with thousands and thousands of references from all over Italy and the rest of the world. Precious is the work done on the Lazio cellars, as well as on the many rare bottles that are only found here in the city. The selection of magnum formats is also noteworthy. The proposal also includes pasta, rice, legumes, jams, honeys, chocolate and many other sweets. The website applies the same wine shop prices is effective and well usable.

Varramista ‘13

Syrah in purity, has ripe tones of cherry jam, then hints of fur and leather with notes of tobacco and licorice. In the mouth it reveals a soft character, with full tannins, a relaxed wine with a satisfying finish.

Sterpato ‘16

Fruity and slightly spicy with notes reminiscent of wild berries. The taste is soft, lively, drinkable, with good balance.

FATTORIA VILLA SALETTA Palaia (PI) – loc. Montanelli via E. Fermi, 14 – 0587628121 – villasaletta.com Total balance with nature, wines faithful to the Palaia native varieties and terroir. The estate belonged to only 4 families: the Gambacortas consolidated ownership of the lands around the estate in the year 1300, before the Riccardi took possession of it and turned it into a veritable rural farm, when it was sold to the Castelli family.

Chianti ‘15

Evokes floral and red fruit notes. In the mouth it’s fresh, soft and well balanced with a complex consistency with hints of violets, cherries and vanilla and notes of toasted wood.

Chiave di Saletta ‘15

DE PASCALE

Avellino

Balsamic notes and spicy sensations, on the palate it is sinuous with soft and velvety tannins.

c.so Vittorio Emanuele, 205 0825781654 - depascale.it It’s impossible to condense in a few lines the centuries-old entrepreneurial history of the Pascale family, inaugurated in the second half of the 19th century with a small bakery-gastronomy and which over time has become one of the most renowned pastry shops and bottle shops of Campania. Today brothers Roberto and Francesco are at the helm, to them we owe the development of the wine shop as we know it, further enriched by assortments and collateral activities after the return to the original location on Corso Vittorio Emanuele in the pedestrian heart of Avel-

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GAMBERO ROSSO X BARBERA D’ASTI AND VINI DEL MONFERRATO CONSORTIUM

Barbera d’Asti, queen of Monferrato and the native expressions of Piemonte

The Barbera d’Asti and Vini del Monferrato Consortium, the unitary heart of all the Monferrato del Vino, promotes and protects 13 denominations, 3 Docg (Barbera d’Asti, Nizza, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato) and 10 Doc (Albugnano, Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato, Dolcetto d’Asti, Freisa d’Asti, Grignolino d’Asti, Loazzolo, Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Monferrato, Piemonte, Terre Alfieri). «Today Monferrato has become a true brand - comments Filippo Mobrici, President of the Consortium - We justly restored value to our denominations, bringing our products to the most important and famous markets, improving traditional commerce and conquering new spaces beyond national borders.» Barbera d’Asti is certainly the most identifiable product in terms of economy and image, it’s easy to approach in the young version, complex if left to age: a double sign of a versatility that has conquered experts and enthusiasts from all over the world. Quality levels of absolute importance also characterise the other DOCGs such as Nizza, obtained from pure Barbera grapes and expression of complexity and organoleptic structure; and Ruchè, which currently

GAMBERO ROSSO

THE CONSORTIUM IN NUMBERS

born:

1946 located in: Castello di Costigliole d’Asti 360 partners 13 denominations: 3 DOCG and 10 DOC hectares planted in vines: 11,000 26% of Piemonte vineyards 65 million bottles in 2019 reaches one million bottles and has obtained the official certification for the version of the Riserva type. «For a wine usually considered ready to drink and intended for consumption young – explains Mobrici – the

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GAMBERO ROSSO X BARBERA D’ASTI AND VINI DEL MONFERRATO CONSORTIUM

1. The Monferrato hills, an evocative landscape that showcases an oenoic Piedmont that’s different from the stereotype and protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site 2. The imposing facade of the Castle of Costigliole d’Asti, headquarters of the Protection Consortium

2 3

possibility of aging 24 months, of which at least 12 are spent in oak barrels, certainly represents great potential.» But the ampelographic variety of the territory finds expression in the plurality of indigenous vines that obtain growing and constant appreciation. Examples are Marengo, made from Cortese grapes in spumante and sparkling versions; or, for the Piemonte Doc, Piemonte Bussanello and Piemonte Viognier. Special mention goes to Monferrato Nebbiolo, a type of Monferrato Doc that will arrive on the market in 2021 at the end of aging. «The excellent work of producers, winemakers and Wine Cooperatives, also thanks to investments in technology, has led to a constant quality growth – says Mobrici – Unesco World Heritage Monferrato is a territory that finds the key in its denominations just to open up to the world together with all its excellences».

 Barbera d’Asti and Vini del Monferrato Consortium - Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 10

Costigliole d’Asti (AT) - 0141324368 - viniastimonferrato.it

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CHARTS

Umbria

lino, rebuilt after the 1980 earthquake. Surrounded by over 700 wine references, beers and spirits, you can drink a glass on the lower floor throughout the day, relying on Francesco’s proposals, accompanied by the many products baked by the adjoining bakery laboratory (but also cured meats, cheeses, extra virgin olive oil, preserves, artisan pasta). Without forgetting the theme evenings and insights dedicated to the areas and producers of the heart: especially Tuscany, Umbria and Piemonte, with a special space for the older bottles of Taurasi.

SCACCIADIAVOLI Montefalco (PG) – loc. Cantinone, 31 0742371210 – scacciadiavoli.it The Panbuffetti family skillfully manages the Scacciadiavoli winery, a rare example of authentic industrial archeology that deserves a visit. The modernization began in the 2000s, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Among the rows we meet the traditional local grapes: sagrantino first of all, but also sangiovese, grechetto, trebbiano spoletino and small quantities of international grape varieties.

Montefalco Sagrantino ‘16

Dense nose, notes of blackberry and tobacco, dry leaves and orange; the mouth is slender and easy to drink, characterised by sharp tannin.

Montefalco Rosso ‘17

Lazio

CASALE DELLA IORIA Anagni (FR) – loc. La Gloria s.da prov.le 118 Anagni-Paliano 077556031 – casaledellaioria.com Cesanese, formerly confined to local consumption, needed interpreters who knew how to renew it. Among these, Paolo Perinelli deserves a special mention, precursor of the new course with particularly suitable vineyards and with a desire to tread new paths.

Naples

Ample and fruity with hints of undergrowth. Good structure, balanced between acidity and tannin. Impressive for its persistence.

Cesanese del Piglio Sup. Tenuta della Ioria ‘17

Nose of red fruits and berries, accompanied by a non-invasive spiciness, and a palate with balanced tannins and amplitude.

Cesanese del Piglio Sup. Torre del Piano Ris. ‘17

A Cesanese that’s consistent with its story but that, at the same time, opens up to a more rounded approach, with an excellent raw material and a wise use of oak.

Abruzzo

CIAVOLICH Loreto Aprutino (PE) – c.da Salmacina, 11 0858289200 – ciavolich.com Historic cellar of the Theatine hills, active for over a century. The Ciavolichs were wool merchants who arrived in Miglianico in 1500 and in 1853 built the family’s first cellar, one of the oldest wine-making structures in Abruzzo. The building was intended for the pressing of the grapes and for the production of cooked wine. The basement, however, housed the barrels for aging the wine.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Fosso Cancelli ‘15

A Montepulciano with beautifully fine and fruity aromas, with a typical and fragrant mouth and a fresh and pleasant drinkability.

Fosso Cancelli Pecorino ‘16

Touches of flowers and fresh aromatic herbs, mouth played on the same register with citrus fruits to give pulp to a tense and infiltrating sip.

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SCAGLIOLA via San Pietro a Maiella, 15 081459696 winebarscagliola.it It was 1940 when Nicola opened the wine shop in the historic center of Naples. Located in San Pietro a Maiella, next to Piazza Bellini, where decumano maggiore witnesses the past of the city. Today there is the third generation in command that selects the best of Italian and foreign references. Nicola, the current owner, together with his partner Sandra, manage the wine shop with much dedication and attention towards the customer. Many labels on offer, from domestic ones, with a very precise focus on Campania wines, to foreign ones. But the strength of the place is also in the vast selection of rums and, more recently, of gin that Nicola has carefully chosen among the craft ones, among those of small realities but also among the most noble ones. Theme evenings or tastings with producers are periodically in the calendar. And for those who want to stay for a glass, it’s possible to pair them with cheese and charcuteries boards of Campania products.

ENOTECA CONTINISIO via Francesco Crispi, 38 0814207066 enotecacontinisio.it Francesco and Stefano have recently moved to via Francesco Crispi and from

WINE FAIR PREVIEW

here they continue to delight their countless customers with their experience. Their adventure began in 1987, when Francesco, a professional Sommelier, and Stefano, sommelier and Master Cheese Taster ONAF, positioned themselves as a reference point for Naples and Campania for lovers of wines and gastronomic products of the highest quality. After a quarter of a century in the historic location of Corso Vittorio Emanuele at the Mercadante wine shop, the two partners, as well as friends, have decided to renew themselves by looking for a new location. The multipurpose space, in fact, is distrbuted on three levels and houses 2,000 labels of Italian, French and international wines and spirits, but also about 100 types of national and European cheeses to be combined with different honeys, mustards, creams and sauces. in addition, 50 references of cured meats, smoked salmon (such as the precious Balik), foie gras, caviar and Balsamic Vinegars. There is no shortage of theme meetings and tastings or evenings dedicated to Italian wineries. Finally, the Enoteca Continisio is the regional headquarters of the European Sommelier School: it’s in fact possible to take First, Second and Third Level courses here. In short, this is a safe address for all fans, gourmets and specialists in the sector.

SAN GIACOMO Rocca San Giovanni (CH) – c.da Novella, 51 0872620504 – cantinasangiacomo.it Historic social winery in the province of Chieti, San Giacomo brings together about 200 wine growers and a significant heritage of vineyards distributed over various municipalities around Rocca San Giovanni, where the operational headquarters are located. A reality that has grown enormously in recent years thanks to the entire proposal, focused on the typical Abruzzo cultivars.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Casino Murri 14 Ris. ‘16

A typical and nervous Montepulciano, with beautiful aromas of fruit and a rhythmic and food-friendly sip.

Casino Murri Pecorino ‘19

A bold and drinkable Pecorino, with nice sweet fruit tones.

TENUTA DEL PRIORE Collecorvino (PE) – via Masseria Flaiani, 1 0858207162 - tenutadelpriore.it From the frenetic rhythms of the capital to the return to the places of origin: the Mazzocchetti cousins tell a story of a family that around the Seventies rediscovered their ties with the soil and decided to invest time and resources in viticulture. Located in Collecorvino, in the Pescara hinterland, where today Fabrizio manages the winery.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Col del Mondo ‘16

Possesses an aromatic baggage of berries on a fresh and flowing mouth, supported by graceful tannic support and refreshed in the finish by intriguing memories of medicinal herbs.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Kerrias ‘15

The nose it expresses hints of currant and blueberry and notes of coffee. On the palate it is soft, enveloping and with good persistence.

Brindisi

ANELLI ENOTECA DELIZIE DAL 1970 via F. Consiglio, 6 0831563507 anellienoteca.com In 2020 the Anelli wine shop celebrated its first 50 years of history. Gianni Anelli and his wife Mariangela have always managed the family business located in the historic center of Brindisi, which has expanded since 2012 with the opening of “Anelli Bistrot”: a room adjacent to the wine bar dedicated to pouring glasses. Creativity, the pursuit of quality, originality and good taste are the fundamental elements through which the two owners have developed a successful busi-

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CUSTOZA DOC

Custoza: enhancement of mineral sapidity A white that encapsulates its territory the denomination. Although the area extends over nine The gentle hills in the south-east shores of Lake Garda municipalities, some of the most beautiful vineyards hold a special heritage: the morainic soils left behind by surround this historic town, famous for having been the the last ice age beyond the Lake form the ideal base for scene of two crucial battles for Italgrape growing. ian independence. Here stories and This is the home of Custoza, a white 4 NATIVES FOR THE DOC legends are still preserved and kept wine characterised by its terroir. alive, such as that of the Tamburino And that, starting from the 2019 The main white variety of Verona. Sardo narrated by De Amicis in the vintage, is also produced as a ReA fine grape variety, which lends novel â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cuore.â&#x20AC;? serve. The variety of styles of the Custofresh and fruity notes. The 1,400 hectares of vineyards za Doc - depending on the terroir dedicated to Custoza Doc are locatand the grapes used - offers variaed at an altitude between 90 and (local clone of Cortese) tions ranging from fruity freshness 200 meters on the hills south-east Slightly aromatic, contributes to more compact, structured and of Lake Garda: morainic soils with significantly to the balance and aromatic wines. The new Riserva mineral components that provide harmony of Custoza. combines the structure of a mafreshness and elegance to this inture white wine appreciated for its imitable white wine. Custoza, a mineral importance balanced with hamlet of Sommacampagna in the Assures freshness lightness and freshness. southwest of Verona, is the heart of

Garganega

Fernanda

Trebbiano Toscano Trebbianello

A local biotype of the Tocai Friulano: fine aromatic variety, at times spicy, even. It contributes to the character of the wine.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CUSTOZA DOC

The vineyards dedicated to the production of Custoza Doc: 1,400 hectares of vineyards in a hilly position between 90 and 200 meters above sea level, south-east of Lake Garda

Cuisine for Custoza It’s excellent with both seafood and traditional cuisine; it goes perfectly with fresh pasta, also stuffed pasta and with delicate farmstead meats. Typical of the area: bigoli with sardines, Valeggio tortellini, potato gnocchi, risotto, lake fish, grilled chicken. In season: with Broccoletto di Custoza, a small local broccoli grown in the vineyards possessing a very savoury and mineral flavour. The typical dish that best presents it is seasoned with a pinch of salt and an excellent extra virgin olive oil from Garda, served with hard boiled eggs and salami.

 Consorzio Tutela Vino Custoza Doc - 0455545857 – custoza.wine - info@vinocustoza.it

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CHARTS

Campania

MARISA CUOMO

ness in this sector, without neglecting, at present, the help and expertise offered by the whole family. While the ground floor is dedicated to the confectionery sector, the basement houses the cellar and the tasting room: the labels are numerous, from all over Italy with a particularly detailed focus on local wines. But that’s not enough: in addition to wine and desserts, in the wine shop you will find extra virgin olive oils, jams, honeys, teas and infusions, wine accessories, spirits and local gastronomic products.

Furore (SA) – via G. B. Lama, 16/18 089830348 – marisacuomo.com Marisa Cuomo is a woman capable of bringing value and attention to the Amalfi Coast around the world, producing wines with a Mediterranean and marine soul. Located in Furore where the vineyards are positioned on soils rich in limestone rocks supported by dry stone walls that draw the typical wine landscape of the Amalfi Coast. In 1980 Marisa received the vineyards inherited from her father as a wedding gift from her husband Andrea Ferraioli.

Costa d’Amalfi Furore Bianco Fiorduva ‘18

It tastes of aromatic herbs, citrus fruits and has a salty aromatic background combined with a thick and continuous central mouth. On the nose there are cherry and blackberry. On the palate it is pleasant and characteristic, medium-bodied, elegant, with good mineral texture.

CANTINE DI MARZO Tufo (AV) – via Gaetano Di Marzo, 2 0825998022 – cantinedimarzo.it The Di Marzo cellar is over 370 years old. It was 1647 when Scipione Di Marzo moved from Nola to Tufo to escape the plague and started the production of wine. In 2009 the winery passed into the hands of Filippo Somma and his kids Ferrante and Maria Giovanna who renewed the cellar, arranging the suggestive 17th-century cellars carved in the tuff.

Greco di Tufo Premium ‘19

The nose picks up sensations of yellow peach, apricot and flint. On the palate it is an intense, fresh and sapid wine with a citrus and refreshing fruit profile.

Greco di Tufo Colle Serrone ‘18

Releases iodine notes and ripe fruit. In the mouth it is enveloping, ample and intensely mineral with a strong flavour.

Basilicata

ELENA FUCCI Barile (PZ) – c.da Solagna del Titolo 3204879945 – elenafuccivini.com In the 1960s grandfather Generoso bought the first vineyards in Contrada Solagna in the Valle del Titolo di Barile, at the foot of Mount Vulture. In those years the wine was produced was only for self-consumption, while the grapes were sold to local producers. Since 2000 the management has passed into the hands of Elena Fucci, winemaker, granddaughter of Generoso, a witty and passionate woman; the grandfather still works at the winery, like her father Salvatore and her husband Andrea.

Aglianico del Vulture Titolo ‘18

Rich and complex on the nose, with hints of black fruits, spices, graphite and a light smoky nuance, on the palate it is dense, weighty and with character, rich in fruit, sapid, with a long finish.

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Costa d’Amalfi Furore Rosso Ris. ‘16

JULY-AGUGUST 2O2O

via XXV Luglio, 3 0832244201 - wineemore.it Marco and Melania Guido, husband and wife, great food and wine enthusiasts, opened the wine shop in 2016, quickly becoming a reference point for enthusiasts and professionals in the city and in the area. The layout of the wine shop is the same since the beginning: Local, domestic and international labels, a food and olive oilsection and spirits. Over time, however, the exhibition space expanded to double the references for each category. So today wine labels have become about 2,500. A large space is dedicated to rosé wine, not only local (100 references), Piemonte and Champagne. The selection of olive oils, not only local, is also very accurate, just as the food proposal with pastas, pickled vegetables, jams, chocolate, confectionery and bakery products is equally satisfying and this year also includes a proposal of high-level producrs. Think caviar, salami and anchovies. Periodically they organise free tastings and theme nights; in the not too distant future, the project involves the creation of a wine bar inside the wine shop with the possibility of enjoying poured drinks and food, too.

ENOTECA & BISTRÒ VINO VERITAS via Boris Giuliano, 22 (già via Piemonte) 091342117 vinoveritasenoteche.wine

WINE FAIR PREVIEW

San Donaci (BR) – via Mesagne, 62 0831681085 – cantinasandonaci.eu Among the oldest vineyards in the Salento area: founded in 1933 by a group of 12 farmers with the interest of protecting and enhancing the wines of Salento. Today the company boasts 300 grape-contributing members, who have made a strong contribution to the agricultural history of Salice Salentino by becoming an authoritative point of reference for Italian oenology.

Palermo

Puglia

CANTINA SAN DONACI

Just renovated and embellished, with elegant rooms lined with beautiful bottles and an inviting outdoor patio, this is an authentic wine temple, born in 2001. For the guests of Giuseppe Lisciandrello, enoteca owner and vigneron, are over 2,000 labels from the world for an offer, also by the glass, hailing from more than 650 cellars. There are only 120 Champagne maisons, but there are pearls from all over the planet, from Bordeaux to Burgundy, from the great Rieslings of the Moselle to the must-haves of the New World. Wine courses, theme nights and product presentations are held here. On the shelves there is no lack of careful selections of olive oils and food products. There is also a rich offer in the field of spirits: only the gins and rums are at least 150. From the open kitchen simple but tasty platters of quality cured meats and cheeses but also hot and cold dishes, solid and tasty, for market fresh cuisine of high level. In recent years, a great push has been given to e-commerce. Another location opened in via Piemonte, 22, practically a perfect clone of the flagship location.

Salice Salentino Rosato Anticaia ‘19

Coral coloured, it tastes of raspberries and wild strawberries. Fresh and savoury on the palate, a Rosé that works for the entire meal..

Fulgeo Negroamaro ‘16

Pure Negroamaro grape, it has fruity and spicy sensations. On the palate the tannins are present but, elegantly refined and in the finish a pleasant bitter note is perceived.

CONTI ZECCA Leverano (LE) – via Cesarea 0832925613 – contizecca.it The winery belonging to the family of the Counts Zecca, founded in 1935, is a true institution of Salento viticulture. The four estates owned, Saraceno, Donna Marzia and Santo Stefano in Leverano, and Cantalupi in Salice Salentino, give life to a very wide range of labels, divided into various production lines, in which the native vines dominate.

Leverano Negroamaro Liranu Ris. ’17

Sharp, with good length and aromatic finesse, with hints of small berries and nuances of rosemary. Hints of ripe fruit and flowers. On the palate the flavour is fresh, harmonious and elegant.

Sardinia

MESA Sant’Anna Arresi (CA) – loc. Su Baroni 0871965057 – cantinamesa.it Mesa is the Sulcitana company that is part of the Santa Margherita group. It was founded years ago by Gavino Sanna, with the idea of enhancing and promoting an extraordinary territory in the south west part of the island, beautiful not only for the vineyard park, but for all the natural habitat that characterises it. Located in the most suitable area for Carignano produced here in different versions, depending on the vineyards and the age of the plants.

Carignano del Sulcis Buio Buio Ris. ‘16

The nose is marked by notes of scrub, myrtle and plum, the palate is dense, with soft tannins and a savoury finish.

Vermentino di Sardegna Giunco ‘18

A Vermentino with fascinating nuances of citrus, sage and mountain herbs with a savoury and almondy finish.

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CUCINA.EAT

Cagliari

Venus Rosato ‘19

JULY-AGUGUST 2O2O

p.zza G. Galilei, 1 0700991098 - shopcucina. it Practically in the city center, this modern, bright and multifunctional place CUCINA.eat is not only a wine shop, but also a pantry of good things, a wine bar, a bistro, a bookshop, a shop for kitchen utensils, accessories and small appliances, a meeting place where you can taste and exchange gourmet experiences. Excellent selection of wines with many Sardinian labels and with an open outlook on all national and foreign quality products. Large choice of local and non-local food specialties, express dishes to be enjoyed at the counter, which revolves around the open kitchen in the centre of the room, or on the social table.

RECIPES

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Masseria Moroseta RESTAURANT CONTACTS

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My Finest Work Yet by Andrew Bird

Mackerel, miso, cucurbits Ajoblanco, peaches and 'nduja Gyoza tomato, ricotta and lemon Cherries, beetroot and seaweed

LATEST BOOK READ

Kafka on the beach by Haruki Murakami

by Paolo Cuccia – photos by Alessio Manca and Giorgia Eugenia Goggi

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

GIORGIA EUGENIA GOGGI - MASSERIA MOROSETA

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

RECIPES

Sgombro, miso, cucurbits ingredients for 4 2 mackerels 200 g rice vinegar 100 g whole sea salt 4 juniper berries tarragon thyme

For the miso mayonnaise 150 g grapeseed oil 50 g white miso 3 egg yolks 2 garlic cloves, confit juice of ½ lemon

1 barattiere variety cucumber 1 Carosello variety cucumber 40 g fermented watermelon rind 40 g EVOO ½ honeydew melon 15 g cedar vinegar 5 g coriander honey 5 g di toasted coriander seeds sweet & sour mustard seeds lemon “aglina” herb flowers fennel pollen

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Clean and carve the mackerel to obtain 4 fillets of about 80 g each. Freeze them for 24 hours, then place them on a plate, cover evenly with salt and leave them in the fridge uncovered for 2 hours. After this time, rinse gently with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Place the fillets in a container, cover with rice vinegar, toasted juniper berries, aromatic herbs and marinate for 40 minutes. Drain from the marinade, pat dry to remove excess vinegar and gently remove the first layer of skin. For the mayonnaise, blend all the ingredients in the glass of an immersion mixer until a stable and shiny sauce is obtained. Store in the fridge until ready to use. Make an emulsion with the extra virgin olive oil, honey, vinegar and mustard and coriander seeds. Cut the cukes into a fine brunoise, season lightly with the dressing, mix well and leave to blend flavours for 15 minutes. Taste and adjust salt and acidity. Slice the mackerel into regular slices of about 1 cm and arrange in the center of the plate. At the two ends of the fish make two small quenelles of miso mayonnaise and cover with the marinated vegetables. Finish with fennel pollen, thin strips of cucumber and "aglina" herb flowers.

JULY-AUGUST 2020

GIORGIA EUGENIA GOGGI - MASSERIA MOROSETA

Ajoblanco, peaches and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nduja ingredients for 4 250 g naturally leavened bread, stale 150 g almonds, peeled 150 g water 150 g unsweetened almond milk 150 g EVOO 45 g white wine vinegar 10 g salt 2 garlic cloves, confit

1 yellow peach 4 radishes 25 g â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nduja 25 g grapeseed oil melissa toasted almonds sumac

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For the ajoblanco, put the stale bread, peeled almonds, water, almond milk, olive oil, vinegar, salt and the garlic cloves in a container, then mix well. Leave the mixture to rest in the refrigerator overnight. The following day, blend everything in several batches until a smooth cream is obtained. If too thick, add a little water. Adjust seasoning and acidity, then put in the refrigerator. Soften the 'nduja with grapeseed oil, cut the peach into 1 cm cubes, slice the radishes thinly and keep them in water and ice. Serve the ajoblanco in chilled bowls, garnishing the surface with a few drops of 'nduja emulsion, diced peaches, crumbled toasted almonds, a few slices of radish, melissa

JULY-AUGUST 2020

RECIPES

Gyoza tomato, ricotta and lemon ingredients for 4 For the pasta 200 g “0” flour 50 g semolina flour 5 egg yolks 1 large egg 5 g EVOO For the filling 250 g sheep’s milk ricotta, drained 70 g Parmigiano Reggiano, grated 50 g mascarpone 50 g fermented potatoes 15 g sun dried tomatoes 15 g salt-cured lemon 8 g fresh mint leaves

For the dough, knead all the ingredients for about ten minutes to obtain an elastic and smooth dough. Cover with plastic wrap, chill for at least 2 hours. For the filling, finely chop salt-cured lemon, sun dried tomatoes and mint. Combine the rest of the ingredients and mix to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Place in a piping bag. For the tomato sauce, cut the tomatoes in half and slice the onion, season everything with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Distribute on a baking sheet and roast at 200° C for 25/30 minutes until very tender and browned on the surface. Leave to cool and juice to obtain approximately 450 g of puree. Pour into a saucepan, add the vinegar and sugar, and cook over very low heat for about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon leaves, the bay leaf and lemon zest, cover with cling film on contact and leave to infuse for 3 hours. Roll out the dough to 2 mm thickness and cut 10 cm discs. Distribute the filling, fold over the crescen and fold to obtain the characteristic gyoza folds. Cook in boiling salted water for about 3 minutes, drain and sauté in a pan with the tomato sauce. When the gyoza become shiny and the sauce has reduced, serve. Finish with lemon thyme, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and Timut pepper.

For the tomato sauce 1 kg “Piccadilly” variety tomatoes 30 g brown sugar 20 g vinegar 1 onion 2 lemon leaves 1 fresh bay leaf Zest of 1 lemon Lemon thyme Timut pepper EVOO

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JULY-AUGUST 2020

GIORGIA EUGENIA GOGGI - MASSERIA MOROSETA

Cherries, beetroot and seaweed ingredients for 4 For the kombu seaweed gelato 800 g milk 250 g heavy cream 250 g light brown sugar 200 g milk kefir 50 g dextrose 4 g carob flour kombu seaweed

To make the gelato, boil the milk to 80° C, add the kombu and leave to steep for 6 hours. Sift and weigh. Add the kefir, heavy cream and the powders mixed together, then emulsify with an immersion blender until the sugars are completely dissolved. Store in the fridge for 12 hours to allow the mixture to stabilize. Blend again for a few seconds and stir. For the sorbet, heat the water to 40° C, add the mixed powders and cook to 84° C. Put in an ice bath and allow to cool completely. At this point add the other ingredients and emulsify with an immersion blender. Store in the fridge for 12 hours to allow the mixture to stabilize. Blend again for a few seconds and stir. Obtain a quenelle of gelato and spread it lightly with the back of a spoon. Sprinkle with toasted kelp powder and finish with a quenell of sorbet.

for the cherry and beetroot sorbet 450 g cherry puree 215 g water 170 g light brown sugar 100 g cold pressed beetroot juice 35 g dextrose 30 g lemon juice 20 g balsamic vinegar 2 g carob flour 1 g guar flour toasted kelp powder

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2020

GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Gianluca Atzeni, William Pregentelli, Loredana Sottile PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Giorgia Eugenia Goggi, Alessio Manca, Alessandro Naldi, Andrea Ruggeri, Valentina Scannapieco GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising Class Pubblicità SpA Milano, Via Marco Burigozzo, 8 - tel. 02 58219522 For commercial enquiries: mprestileo@class.it Advertising director Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it

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