NEW CLOTH MARKET SEPTEMBER 2011 by Texman

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Somani Sampat

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Business Area Manager, CSIR, South Africa CEO-IMG, Pantaloon Retail (I) Ltd. IIMS, Ahmedabad President (Technology & Strategy) Morarjee Goculdas Spg. & Wvg. Co. Ltd., Mumbai Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad Principal, Bhavnagar Engg. College LEITAT Tech. Centre, Barcelona, Spain Technical Director, Masturlal Fabrichem Pvt. Ltd., Baroda Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad Sr. Vice-President-Corporate Env., Jubilant Organosys Ltd., Noida G.M.-Fibre Dyeing, Bhilwara Processors Ltd., Bhilwara Advisor (R&D), Arvind Mills Ltd.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 (VOL. 25, NO. 9)

CONTENTS 7

EDITORIAL : " ACHIEVING ZERO DISCHARGE IN TEXTILE PROCESSING UNITS"

13 EXECUTIVE PAGES * Flame Retardant Finishing Recipe from 'Kunal' * The Information Curtain: Creating Digital Patterns with Dynamic Textiles * Luminous Curtains for a Magical Ambience * A Market Overview of Intelligent Textile Technologies in Apparel * Nano-Enabled Protective Textiles * Applications of TiO2 Nanofibers Produced by Nanospiderâ&#x201E;˘ Technology * Colourtex Recipe for Polyester Rusgulla Dress * Nanocatalyst for Dye Removal from Waste Water 32 AN OVERVIEW OF GARMENT FINISHING 37 APPLICATION OF BIOTECHNOLOGY IN JUTE PROCESSING 39 ANALYSIS OF THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY IN TERMS OF LOGISTICS

48 INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES * List of Buying Houses in Bangladesh * Preview in Seoul 2011 : A Report * Textile Industries of Pakistan, China and Bangladesh * International News & Technical Developments 72 NEWS BRIEFS

NEW CL OTH MA RK ET i s reg i s t er ed w i t h t h e Reg i s t r ar o f New s p ap er s f o r In d i a, New Del h i

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 NEW CLOTH MARKET,SEPTEMBER 2011

NEW CLOTH MARKET The Complete Monthly Textile Magazine from Textile Technologists With FASHION FABRIC SAMPLES

Published by

IIMS AHMEDABAD

ADVISORY BOARD Mr. Amin K.D. Dr. Bhat Prabhakar Dr. Deo H.T. Dr. Gandhi R.S. Mr. Garde A.R. Mr. Jain K.C. Mr. Kamdar P.T. Mr. Lekhadia Atul Dr. Patel B.B. Mr. Shah H.K.

: : : : : : : : : :

Ex. Regional Manager, Colourtex Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Head - Textile Dept., Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology & Science, Indore. Ex Professor (Fibre Chemistry), U.D.C.T., Bombay. Ex-Director, MANTRA, SURAT Ex-Director, ATIRA Processing Manager, Bhilwara Suitings, Bhilwara Technical Consultant, Rajkot Managing Director, Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. Professor of Economics, Gandhi Labour Institute, Ahmedabad FinancialAdviser, ANZ Exports (India), Ahmedabad

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: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

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"Achieving Zero Discharge in Textile Processing Units" All the 729 dyeing and bleaching factories in the city of Tirupur in Tamilnadu are lying closed as per the strict order of the Madras High Court in January this year. They will be allowed to reopen only when they are able to In order to reopen zero liquid discharge‚ a nearly impossible task, according to the factory owners. The High Court’s order came in the wake of strong protests by farmers of the region who had been badly impacted by the mindless discharge of the toxic effluent these dye houses have dumped into the local water. The petitioners said dyeing and bleaching units were discharging industrial effluents into the river, making the water unfit for irrigation and other purposes. They were successful in forcing the factory owners in 2009 to install effluent treatment plants to control the pollution. The $260 million investment made in the Common Effluent Treatment Plants proved ineffective and the pollution problem continued. The factory owners’ demand for allowing them about 6 to 9 months for ensuring the zero discharge requirement has been rejected by the High Court and even the government has not taken any urgent steps to resolve the matter in spite of the fact that closure of dyeing units in Tirupur has rendered about 1 lakh workers jobless and caused export revenue loss of Rs 1,100 crore as per its own estimates. In pursuance of the orders of Madras High Court, water and power supply to 18 CETPs (Common Effluent Treatment Plants) with 754 dyeing and bleaching units were disconnected as they did not fulfill zero liquid discharge conditions for effluent treatment. Tirupur, which contributes USD 11.1 billion worth of garment exports, specially the knitwear, is passing through a very critical crisis. It is a very unfortunate state of affairs currently prevailing in Tirupur for every one - be it farmers, factory owners, workers, residents or even the government agencies. The industry associations claim that it is not possible to comply with the ‘zero-level discharge’ norm as even the ground water and well water contains some salt. However, it is really very strange to hear some factory owners to whisper that the only permanent solution is to discharge the pollution into the sea. Sending pollution to the sea will only delay the effects of the pollution, not end them. China experienced a similar textile pollution problem last year, and the country resolved the situation by permanently closing the most polluting textile dyeing facilities. There are reports of some manufacturers opening new factories in other distant areas and on private lands in the hope of evading regulators. Let’s hope this doesn’t become the long term “solution” for pollution. The central government in consultation with the Tamil Nadu Government has set up a 12-member inter-ministerial committee to address the financial, environmental and textiles related issues of the Tirupur textiles industry. The panel is headed by Textiles Secretary Rita Menon. The Union Textiles Ministry has also constituted a high-level committee - under the chairmanship of renowned agriculture scientist Prof. M.S. Swaminathan - to study the functioning of Arulpuram Common Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) and to advise the government on technical solutions for ensuring zero liquid discharge in the dyeing process, among other issues. Meanwhile, the Commerce and Industry Minister, Mr. Anand Sharma, has assured to find some interim short-term solution to reopen the closed textile units. But what India needs is a long term ‘one for all’ policy to tackle the menace of water pollution. Even at the global level, efforts have already been initiated by the Greenpeace International which is calling for zero discharge of all hazardous chemicals in the global textile supply chain. India’s exports would suffer immensely if the issue of pollution is resolved on an ad-hoc basis. G.D. JASUJA Managing Editor

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 7

EXECUTIVE PAGES

FLAME RETARDANT FINISH The flammability characteristics of different fibers vary widely. Cellulosic fibre (cotton and rayon) burns readily with afterglow and formation of char, while wool support combustion only with difficulty. Synthetic fibers burn and melt readily. After combustion, the polymer may burst into flame, melt, shrink or char. The role of flame retardants is to inhibit the formation of combustible products. Inherent flame retardant fibers are also now made e.g. Nomex, Kevlar, Kymol etc.. Most of the non durable flame retardants for textiles are inorganic salts or hydrates such as borax, ammonium chloride or aluminum oxide trihydrate. Phosphorus containing flame retardants usually have functional groups that are phosphates or phosphonates. THPC, a tetrahydroxy methyl phosphonium salt and a phosphamide - trade name of Pyrovotex CR - are both applied to cotton fabrics by pad-dry-cure process. Ammonium sulfamate acts as the flame retardant and does not affect the hand of the treated fabric. Boric acid acts as the afterglow represser. Dicyandiamide acts as the stabilizer and protects the treated material against discoloration and tendering during exposure to high temperature. A typical recipe

Parts by Weight

Ammonium sulfamate 100 Quillon Stearate Chromic Chloride 10 (a solution of about 6.0% Cr content) Dicyandiamide 10 Boric acid 10 Water 870 Total

1000

Pick-up

70-75%

It has been found that cellulose derivatives containing primary amino groups react with tetrakis (hydroxymethyl) phosphonium chloride to produce cellulose derivatives containing phosphorus as well as nitrogen. The combustibility of their phosphorus and nitrogen containing cellulosic derivatives is markedly lower. A typical recipe Components Tetrakis (hydroxymethyl) Phosphonium Chloride Triethanolamine Triethanolmelamine Urea Water

S - 721 :

For Cellulose fabric, which is used as interior textiles. S - 400 : For Polyester fabrics, which is used as industrial textiles like automobile/ train interior textiles. Property

S- 721

Active Content 60% pH 6-7

Pad-Dry-Cure The fabric may be given ammonia cure. Components

% by Weight

Ammonium sulfate Soda ash Water

7 3 90

This process gives durable flame retardant properties, and tensile strength and tear strength is not much lowered.

S - 400 45% Neutral

4 to 7 6 to 9 4 to 7 48 to 65

In addition to these, the recipe may contain fabric softener and wetting agent.

PAD-DRY (200-2200F for 2-3 minutes) Following Flame Retardants are recommended.

% by Weight 23 to 32

Both products are transparent liquid and are easily soluble in water.

Application :

S - 721

S - 400

Minimum dosage

14-16% owf

8 - 12% owf

Material Flame retardant Finishing resin Catalyst for resin Softner Water/Oil repellant Water

100% Rayon curtain cloth 30 - 40 parts 10 4 0.3 X

100% Polyester sheet 20 - 30 parts 1-2 0.3 0.3 - 0.5 X

Total

100 parts

1 dip 1 nip 85% 90oC x 3 min. 145oC x 3min.

1 dip 1 nip 70 - 80% 100oC x 2min 160oC x 2-3min

Treatment : Padding Pick up Pre-drying Curing This page is sponsored by :

Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. : Leaders in New Generation Textile Processing Chemicals Address : 34, Madhuvan Towers, Madalpur, Ellis Bridge, Ahmedabad-380 006. Fax : 91-79-26409677 Email : mail@kunal.com NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 8

EXECUTIVE PAGES

The Information Curtain: Creating Digital Patterns with Dynamic Textiles Linda Melin Play Research Group, Interactive Institute, Sweden Abstract : We are exploring ways to bridge the gap between traditional interior-design materials and digital media. At a time when computers become ubiquitous we think it is important to explore alternative display materials that can be better integrated in the human environment. The information curtain is a seemingly ordinary textile that can change color and pattern dynamically according to some input data. This was achieved by creating a special textile based on fibers that change color according to the amount of ultra-violet (UV) light. A color will appear on the surface when exposed to UV light and then slowly fade away when the light is turned off. By connecting the fabric to a computer-controlled UV light we will be able to use textiles as an output for digital media. Keywords : Alternative computer displays, ubiquitous computing Introduction : In a time when we are becoming surrounded by computers in our daily life, there is an ever-growing need for new channels to communicate electronic information. At the same time, textile seems to have lost its place and status in interior design. Once textiles were used as a way of communicating information — a wall hanging might be a reflection of a person’s lifestyle or status, perhaps even showing the owner’s beliefs, cultural history or political standing. Furthermore, textile is a traditional material with many beneficial properties, for instance the ability to create a comfortable atmosphere both Figure 1.The information curtain changes color after exposure to acoustically and aesthetically. It UV light, except where an object has covered the material is also a material that can easily give a room a new character — making it for instance cozier or more inviting. Many of these positive properties are missing in other interior-design materials such as wood, plastic or stone. These properties are also completely missing from current computer design — computers and computer displays are still mainly anonymous boxes in gray or beige. If we are going to let computers take up more and more of our public and private spaces, we will need to design them to fit into our current environment. Some computers are already being designed as "lifestyle products" encased in colorful shells (e.g. the Apple iMac range), but we feel that there should be other ways to approach the problem. We have constructed the information curtain, a curtain that reveals a new color or pattern after being exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. The color-changing properties of the information curtain will make it possible to display information in a way that fits better with the environment, while taking advantage of NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 13

the positive properties of textiles as an interior-design material.

EXECUTIVE PAGES

The Fabric Our first prototype of the information curtain was constructed out of a polypropylene fiber with photocromic properties. SolarActive (www.solaractiveintl.com) supplied the embroidery yarn, which changes color when exposed to UV light. The thread is white when not exposed to UV light, and turns into one out of seven available colors upon exposure. The color change is effective for about 1-3 minutes depending on the light intensity and time of exposure, and on the color and construction of the fabric. After UV exposure the original white color gradually returns. The lifetime of the colored fiber is currently limited, since the color-changes will become progressively less intense over time. By weaving a fabric out of Solaractive’s yarn, we have been able to create colorchanging textiles with a variety of properties and patterns. Experiments with constructions and colors When starting to weave with a new material, it is important to make a variety of samples in the loom. The way the textile is constructed affects the color, the density and the hang of the final fabric. We have tried 15 different constructions such as single weave, twill, satin, panama, weftrib, cr pe, and honeycomb. When creating a fabric out of the SolarActive yarn we mixed the seven available colors in the warp and weft during weaving in various different ways, creating a number of samples of possible color mixtures. This gave us an extended number of color shades and possible patterns in addition to the seven basic colors.The examples were woven on a computer-controlled handloom with sixteen shafts.The amount of shafts controls the possibility to make different constructions; the more shafts the more different ways to make constructions. These initial samples have given us a wide variety of possible patterns and aesthetic expressions to use for further experimentation. The Information Curtain For our first experiment in color-changing textiles, we did not use any computer input, but instead utilized the UV light of the sun. We created a shaft-woven curtain — the information curtain — that was white during the night, but would turn into a colorfully striped curtain when the sun rose. The information curtain was exhibited publicly at the Bor s Textile Museum for three months. We found that the curtain attracted a new public that had previously not paid much attention to the possibilities of textile design. We are now experimenting with using artificial and computer-controlled UV light-sources to call forth patterns woven into the fabric. When the UV light is turned on it can create a colorful pattern on a singlecolored textile, or reveal a pattern hidden in an originally white fabric. The change will be effective for several minutes after the light is turned off. The fabric thus becomes a kind of limited "display", with patterns that can be recalled by short flashes of UV light. By directing the light at different parts of the fabric, we might call forth many different types of patterns that have been woven into the material. We can thus create different types of custom-made "displays" for different varieties of information. New Design Opportunities Since we can reveal different patterns in our fabric using UV light, by connecting the UV light-sources to different types of input data, we can create different pattern in the fabric dynamically. The UV exposure could be controlled in different ways: we might have a matrix of many individually controlled lights that shines on different parts of the fabric; or we could have a single lamp mounted on a motor-controlled arm that can be directed towards different parts of the fabric. We could also create different cut-out masks that the light shines through, making a temporary imprint much like a stencil. This creates a new design opportunity, in that we can construct information displays that can be better integrated into the environment, while also retaining the many positive qualities of traditional textiles. Here are some sample applications : A weather station The textile might show weather information in an aesthetic and ambient way, as an alternative to a traditional digital weather display. By connecting the UV light-source to a weather station we could make a bright and colorful pattern appear during a sunny day, while during a dull day a soft pastel color might appear. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 14

EXECUTIVE PAGES

Activity at work By using the opening and closing of the front door to a workplace as an information source, we might create a curtain that will get more and more colorful as more and more people pass through the door. Since the color will fade after a while, this could show if a large number of people have passed the door recently. Showing presence over distance Which of my colleagues are on-line? This can be shown by weaving specific patterns for specific persons on different parts of a large curtain, and letting the UV light selectively bring forth the patterns according to which persons are online. When all colleagues are on-line at the same time, the whole surface will be covered by a complete pattern. Related Work Relevant work has been done in combining computing and textiles, but mainly for integrating electronic circuitry into textiles [2]. Ambient displays have been introduced as a way to introduce information in the architectural space, but these have not for the most part employed textiles [1, 3]. Conclusions and Future Work Next, we plan to implement and evaluate some of the applications described previously. We are also trying to find alternative ways to illuminate the textile. Instead of pointing an external UV light to the textile, we will try to weave fiber optics into the material to be able to lead the UV light directly into the fabric. With the information curtain we have shown that there is an opportunity to use new design materials with digital media, and make displays that can fit better into the human environment. By using textiles to construct an information display, we can combine the positive properties of a traditional material with the dynamic possibilities of digital media. Acknowledgements Thanks to Lars Erik Holmquist for help with writing this paper. References 1. Heiner, J.M., Hudson, S.E. and Tanaka, K.The information percolator: Ambient information display in a decorative object. In Proceedings of UIST â&#x20AC;&#x2122;99, pp.141-148, ACM Press, 1999. 2. Post, E.R., Orth, M., Russo, P.R. and Gershenfeld, N. E-broidery: Design and fabrication of textilebased computing. IBM Systems Journal, 39(3-4), 2000. 3. Wisneski, C., Ishii, H., Dahley, A., Gorbet, M., Brave, S., Ullmer, B. and Yarin, P., Ambient Displays: Turning Architectual Space into an Interface between People and Digital Information. In Proceedings of CoBuild â&#x20AC;&#x2122;98, pp. 22-32, Springer, 1998.

Luminous Curtains for a Magical Ambience Light has the incredible ability to transform spaces, provoke sensations and change your mood. The product line DECO from Sensing Tex allows decorators and interior designers to experiment with light as never before and create spaces with a uniquely enveloping feel. Create a magical ambience with Luminous Curtain, the innovative illuminating curtain product developed by Sensing Tex, which brings together the traditional with the vanguard. With its warm and subtle illumination, Luminous Curtain constructs an intimate atmosphere which can envelope any type of space. Luminous Curtain is based on an innovative, original technology, Luminous Tex which allows the creation of environments with decorative lighting by using a traditional decorative soft furnishing, the curtain. Luminous Curtains offer the interior design community an innovative product which mixes the traditional with the new and delivers new ways to illuminate and decorate space. Curtains by day and an attractive luminous effect by night to create intelligent environments which sense our presence and interact with NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 15

EXECUTIVE PAGES

us. Luminous Curtains are made from the latest generation of light emitting textile based on patented light emitting fibre optics. Luminous Curtains introduce additional functionality to curtains, the emission of light, which leads to new design possibilities for interior spaces. Luminous Curtains allow creation interactive illuminated environments generating environments with a more comfortable feel. Key Features of Luminous Curtains : 1. The material used in Luminous Curtains look and feel the same as any other curtain. 2. They can illuminate with various light sources depending on the effect and brightness desired. 3. They provide light but not heat and since they don't heat up they can be left on as long as required. 4. Luminous Curtains are installed as easily as any other curtain. o

5. The materials used for Luminous Curtain Tex can be carefully hand washed; with hot water up to 70 C with pH neutral soap. Sensing Tex is a technology company with its origins in Barcelona, specializing in the development and marketing of smart textiles in sectors such as interior design, security, health, sportswear, automotive and fashion. Sensing Tex offers innovative solutions in the form of development services for client products as well as a line of finished products which combine textile with the latest electronics technologies. The patented technology of Sensing Tex is a unique combination of the most advanced materials : 1. Electronic inks and pastes which are flexible, elastic and can be printed on materials with special surface preparations are used to construct complex passive and active electronic systems. (Technologies are based on organic printed electronics) 2. Both conventional and silicon based fibre optics woven into textile to create a light emmiting fabric. (Technology based on light guides) Sensing Tex technology can be integrated with any type of material or other technologies under exclusive or shared licence. The technology can be applied using completely standard weaving, printing, lamination and impregnation techniques which maintain the original properties of the material such as the flexibility, elasticity, comfort and the ability to wash etc. Main differentiating characteristics : 1. By using only one coat of material, the textile remains lighter, thinner, more flexible, cheaper and more environmentally friendly than other solutions using other technologies. 2. The possibility to combine different materials with different properties â&#x20AC;&#x201C; pressure, light or temperature â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in the same textile. 3. The textile sectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s standard machinery & techniques can be used by multiple manufacturers leading to larger production capacity, shorter production times and greater possibility for cost reduction. 4. Maximum flexibility for circuit design, since with the application of electronic inks our technology is not limited by a certain type of weaving machinery or process that would limit circuit design options in less advanced technologies. Sensing Tex, S.L. Fabra i Puig 474, Local 2, 08042 Barcelona. Ph : +34 93 428 18 56. Email : info@sensingtex.com NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 16

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A Market Overview of IntelligentTextileTechnologies in Apparel Christian Dalsgaard and Anne Jensen Ohmatex Aps, Brendstrupgaardsvej 102, 8200 Aarhus N, Denmak Email: chd@ohmatex.dk Introduction : A great deal has changed since we published our first whitepaper on the smart textiles market in 2007. At that point, Ohmatex was one of the few companies working with smart textile development commercially, since then both markets and numbers of stakeholders have grown exponentially, with reported market growth now approaching 30%. As previously, the aim of this whitepaper is to provide an overview of current trends for companies in the traditional textile and electronics industries who may be looking for opportunities to exploit smart textile technologies. Definitions : Smart textiles

Textiles with the ability to react to different physical stimuli; mechanical, electrical, thermal and chemical etc.

SFIT

Smart Fabrics and Interactive Textiles (also defined as smart textiles)

WearableTechnology :

Any electronic device small enough to be worn on the body

InteractiveTextiles

Wearable technology that is integrated into a garment or controlled by and integrated panel or button.

Market overview : The last 3 years has seen a dramatic growth in the market for garments using smart textiles and other wearable technologies. Trends in the sports and clothing industries towards manufacture of specific products for dedicated uses (running, skiing, snowboarding etc.) has not only led to the introduction of products with integrated functions using smart textile technologies, it has also seen the development of virtual communities and widespread apps which offer consumers entirely new experiences and bind them closer to manufacturers. They also provide manufacturers with opportunities to gain direct feed-back as to how consumers use their products. For a number of years textile companies have been making use of system integrators to help them develop products which combine microelectronics, plastics and ceramics in new smart functional applications. Electronics companies such as Philips and system providers such as RAE Systems are now also entering the market with commercial solutions that use smart textile developments to improve their monitoring systems etc. Segmentation and Stakeholders Personal Protective Equipment & Safety : According to a 2010 Global Industry Analystâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s report, the Christian Dalsgaard is Director and Founder of smart textile consultancy Ohmatex ApS. Anne Jensen is the company coordinator with responsibility for marketing activities and project administration. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 17

EXECUTIVE PAGES

global market for Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) will approach $33300 million USD by 2015. Although this market segment has also slowed down under the economic crisis, companies cannot afford to cut corners on replacement of PPE for long, as the cost of productivity losses and liability for non-compliance with legislation is extremely high. Within the past couple of years leading PPE suppliers are beginning to embrace wearable technologies for the most exposed professions. Viking Life-Saving Equipment1 is due to launch a fire-fighters jacket with integrated temperature sensing technology at the start of 2011 and Globe Firefighter2 suits announced the commercial launch of base-layer T-shirts with integrated physiological sensing (based on Zephyrs BioHarness technology) for early 2012.

Figure 1

In the fishing industry, the EU financed FP7demonstration project Safe@Sea is developing new protective garments for fishermen (Figure 1) with integrated buoyancy, man-over-board alerting and textile properties that ensure protection from the sea and gutting knives without being bulky and while allowing maximum freedom of movement. Project manager Helly Hansen intends to exploit as many features as practically feasibly in subsequent commercial products. Workwear : Focus in this segment is on garment functionality with textile properties and coatings at the forefront. Closely related to both PPE and military clothing applications, relatively few applications with integrated electronics have been demonstrated in recent years. Healthcare : With an explosive growth in Telemedicine predicted over the next 5 years, the number of systems offering smart garments for non-obtrusive and non-invasive remote monitoring might be expected to have increased rapidly in recent years. However, despite a number of large and semi-publically financed projects in this field (MyHeart, Wealthy, Context, Myotel etc.) only a limited number of commercial applications for healthcare monitoring have been seen. Initial market players like Vivometrics, who developed and obtained FDA approval for their monitoring vest under the LifeShirt brand, have since ceased trading and the product has now been taken over by RAE Systems3 as a product suited to monitor emergency response staff and Hazmat workers. Consumer Sports Products : Smart solutions in the consumer sports segment reflect general trends in consumer electronics with T-shirts and pulse monitor straps or belts widely available from a number of brands, where they are marketed as training aids for professional and amateur athletes alike. Data from these are transmitted wirelessly to standard consumer electronics devices; Mp3 players, training watches and iPhone or Android apps. What is new in the past year or two is the way in which this data can be uploaded to on-line applications devised to increase motivation and to enable athletes to compete against themselves and others, as well as monitor their own progress. Large virtual communities are developed around these products providing discrete marketing opportunities for manufacturers and allowing manufacturers to gain direct knowledge about how users deploy their equipment. Leading brands include Nike+, Adidas MiCoach, Polar and Suunto. Within the performance clothing segment, solutions offering integrated control of personal music devices have been popular, often based upon a more or less standard concept, similar to that illustrated in Figure2. Sports Marketing : In the past couple of years a whole new segment has emerged based on exploitation of smart solutions to promote fan loyalty and brand commitment by providing opportunities for on-line and real-time interactions via increasingly widespread social media such as Facebook, and via Android and iPhone apps. The brands behind this type of sports marketing are first movers; Google, HTC and Guinness. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 18

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Figure 2 Examples include the MyTracks Android app for location based and wireless monitoring (including heart rate data) of team HTC- Columbia Velostream riders in the 2010 Tour de France4 , and the creation of the Guinness area 225 for Irish Rugby fans. Guinness has integrated RFID (Radio Frequency ID) chips into the Rugby balls and players jerseys used in Ireland games and use sensors around the pitch to monitor player and ball movement. Statistical information is streamed live “on-line” to fans. Area 22 is part of a huge brand positioning exercise and involves apps to provide the same information on mobile devices and coordinated supporters events in pubs across the country. After trying out the technology and concept in Ireland, Guinness report that they aim to provide differing entry points for differing groups of fans and subsequently expand the concept to other countries. Heated Textiles : A broad range of applications have emerged using heating panels and more integrated technologies to provide garments that improve wearer comfort by provision of localised warmth. Standard products now include jackets, vests and trousers with heated panels for snowboarders, skiers and other outdoor sports, ski and motorcycle gloves with heated fingers as well as heated underwear for sports and general wellness. The number of products in this market segment has increased dramatically over the past 3-5 years, as have the number of manufacturers. Despite an initially mixed reception, these products are now widely adopted by consumers and an annual market growth in excess of 50% is claimed by a number of manufacturers. Those companies who entered the market early are now established players; US manufacturer Gerbing6 is a good example in the motorcycling segment, as is Austrian Alpenheat7 in the outdoor sportswear segment. Audio Entertainment : While smart garments with integrated controls for iPod and Mp3 players previously attracted media attention, such solutions are no longer newsworthy. As a result, standard type solutions are beginning to emerge that existing brands can integrate as a feature in their own products. In 2007 Marks and Spencer, Bagir and Eleksen gained considerable joint publicity from their launch of a suit jacket with integrated iPod controls, but by 2010, French sports wholesaler Decathlon, was marketing their own brand ski/snowboarding jacket with audio control features without advertising Fibretronic as the supplier of this technology. This is a good illustration of the way in which smart feature integration has now become a manufacturing, rather than marketing cost. Fashion : A number of “demonstration” projects have been seen in this segment during 2009 and 2010, many publicity stunts with light emitting textiles. Catwalk and stage performances in garments with integrated LED’s have been seen repeatedly, in a variety of designs, manufactured by various companies and designers. Swiss textile manufacturer Forster Rohner8 and Danish design company Diffus9 teamed NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 19

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up and used the 2009 COP15 UN Climate Change conference in Copenhagen as a platform for showing an innovative dress with embroidered LED lighting. UK based CuteCircuit10, who describe themselves both as a wearable technology and fashion company, are perhaps one of the most prolific/successful in this area having designed dresses for pop singers Katy Perry and Safura.The dress worn by Katy Perry was embroidered with 24,000 full-colour LED lights run off iPod batteries. These garments not only attracted much media attention, but most interestingly, were reported to be commercially available in a limited version from Selfridges of London at a price of ÂŁ1,350 from September 2010. It has not been possible to find details of numbers manufactured or dress sales, but with the current maturity of the technology, commercial sale of a garment with embroidered LED lights is extremely ambitious, especially with issues of robustness and washability in mind. There are some indications that commercial launch may have been delayed, with Selfridges sending out a press release promising the dress on sale for Christmas 2010. In the mean time, CuteCircuit are already marketing a T-shirt with integrated LED technology to consumers via their on-line web-shop. The T-shirt which retails at ÂŁ80 GBP claims to be hand washable with batteries removed. Cheaper versions with LED technology attached via a Velcro-backed patch that can be removed for washing are manufactured in China as no-name products that can be branded by retailers (Global Sources Chinese suppliers offer a variety of options). Trade prices for these items vary between $1-7.4 USD. Light Emitting Textiles : Much research is still to be done to solve issues of robustness, seamless integration and not least washability. The EU funded FP7 Place-it project (Platform for Large Area Conformable Electronics by InTegration11 ), led by Dutch electronics giant Philips, focuses on true integration of LED technology with flexible, stretchable and textile substrates. Likewise, the FP7 PASTA (Integrating Platform for Advanced Smart Textile Applications12) project, which focus is new methods of electronic packaging and module interconnects to increase the robustness of integration by development of stretchable interposers to provide strain relief between components and fabrics and to develop commercially feasible interconnect technologies. Both projects are indicative of the broad consensus that these issues are critical to the feasibility of commercial manufacture and widespread consumer adoption. However technology is beginning to already emerge onto the accessories market (a wide variety of cushions and drapes/curtains are commercially available), where the challenges of washability can often be avoided.

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Military and defence applications : Expectations are often that the defence industry is ahead of the field in utilising research developments in smart textiles. A number of prestigious demonstration projects have been launched across the globe to utilise developments in coatings and material properties as well as exploit opportunities for integration of electronics and communications equipment in military uniforms. The US military has been exploring opportunities for exploitation of smart textile technologies at the NATIK Soldier Systems Center through the Future Force Warrior program since at least 2006. This demonstration project seeks to combine on-board computer systems, communications, and wearable power sources with enhanced soldier protection technologies (bullet protection). A similar concept, but on a commercial basis, is the FELIN system which is currently under development in a second version by French Sagem Defence Solutions (together with Thales and EADS). FELIN is a dramatically modernised combat suit with integrated rechargeable battery technology and the possibility to attach and run a range of electronics devices including weapon sights and radios. Weight is ergonomically positioned and the integrated communications reduces the burden of additional equipment as well as providing direct information to command staff.The system has already undergone extensive trials and its operational debut is expected in 2011 or early 2012. In 2010 the South Korean army reported a project to exploit smart textile technologies for military uniforms, and a similar project was announced in the UK.13 Market drivers Olympic games 2012 : Within the world of sport, there is an infinite need for improved athletic performance.Technological developments in physiological monitoring and motion supervision are expected to be exploited to facilitate new training tools allowing athletes and trainers to evaluate the efficiency of training programmes and fine tune them to optimise performance. The last two Olympic Games have also seen exploitation of new materials to dramatically enhance sports achievements. Examples are the British Olympic cycling teams bodysuit designed to reduce air drag and the controversial Speedo LZR and Arena Powerskin technologies which are claimed to have at least part of the responsibility for the more than 50 Olympic swimming records broken in Beijing. An out of lab motion sensor with real-time bio-feedback dedicated to shot put, javelin, rowing or high jump is be expected to be a sensational tool for athletes during training and even competition.

Ageing population/healthcare trends : Chronic conditions and diseases are the leading cause of mortality. In Europe chronic disease management currently accounts for 60% of all public health spend14 ing (Source: Frost & Sullivan 2010) while in the US 15 this figure is at least 75% . The demographic shift towards an older population means that there is a declining working population to pay for public health care and considerable pressure to develop alternative systems that will allow standards of healthcare to remain high while reducing costs dramatically. One area expected to expand dramatically is in truly wearable physiological monitoring and home care in order to reduce and shorten hospital admissions NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 21

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and care needs.The European Commission ICT for Health Unit report on “Business Models for eHealth” (28 February 2010) estimated the European eHealth market at EUR14.269 million in 2008 and projected that it will reach EUR15.619 million by 2012 with the market for personalised health and disease management services such as remote patient monitoring, telecare etc. predicted to have a compound annual 16 growth of 61.4% between 2008-2012 . Thus far, the number of telecare solutions implemented has been extremely limited (The ICT for Health Unit reported the telemedicine market as just 0.9% of the total eHealth market in 2008), with most as pilot studies only. This may in part be due to a lack of standards, but could also indicate that adoption of this technology may take some time, with successful solutions requiring long term investment before returns (reduced hospitalisation, better medication management, improved patient quality of life, reduced staffing and transport costs etc.) can be realised. Companies involved in development of wearable monitoring technologies include : 17

• Equivital – LifeMonitor (FDA and CE approved for health monitoring) 18

• Zephyr Technology Corporation – BioHarness BT (FDA approved) Publically (EU, NASA / ESA) funded research and development : A number of SFIT research projects have already been funded within the EU FP6 and FP7 programmes with the aim of revitalising the European textile industry and increasing competitiveness through high-tech innovation rather than see jobs lost to low cost manufacturing in Asia and the Developing world. NASA, and its European counterpart ESA, are also extensively involved in exploiting and maturing the latest wearable technologies. Until 2010 NASA had planned development of a new “Constellation space suit”, which would potentially combine many of the most advanced wearable technologies, although that was put on hold indefinitely by the Obama administration in response to the economic crisis.

Image Credit : NASA

Inhibitors The recent economic crisis led to greater caution amongst investors in the course of 2009.While some optimism appears to have returned in 2010, larger investments in smart textiles products have primarily been seen amongst well consolidated brands; Nike, Adidas and Polar amongst sports brands and Viking Life-Saving Equipment in PPE. Lack of standards : No standards for smart textiles currently exist, although the need for standards in this field is widely recognised if consumers are not to be disappointed by the immaturity of some technologies which are currently underway. A European task group (CEN/TC 248) led by Belgian CentexBel was established in 2006, to look at issues of performance and testing, compliance with legal requirements and how to ensure that new risks are not introduced, although a set of standards based on this work has yet to be introduced. Research Focus Research focus in SFIT has gradually shifted from sensing technologies in projects like MyHeart, Wealthy, BioTex and Context towards integration issues in projects such as Stella (stretchable electronics), PlaceIt (interconnects and integration of OLEDs) and PASTA (increasing the robustness and commercial maturity of integrated systems) with future focus expected to look at power supply needs for autonomous systems. Power Consumption : Research groups like those at CSEM in Switzerland, IMEC in Belgium and TNO at the Holst centre in Holland are focussing on achievement of autonomous or ultra-low power consumption sensor technologies for body area network applications. A number of applications of this type have been demonstrated including an ECG monitoring shirt and a pulse oximeter powered by dissipated body heat at IMEC. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 22

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Although sensors typically have a very low data rate and most often a unidirectional data flow, where data is sent to a base station with a less limited power supply, reduction of energy consumption for wireless transmissions is still a key issue for energy autonomous systems, with the current state-of-theart at around 20nJ/bit. Power Sources : Wearable applications with integrated electronic functions typically use batteries as a power source.These applications can already be designed to have very limited power consumption, but existing battery technologies are often bulky, relatively weighty and lack flexibility in relation to the soft drape of materials used in wearable applications. Since the rationale for integration of these functions into a garment is often that they are always at hand and never forgotten, then ideally the power supply should also be seamlessly integrated as part of the product, without the need for human intervention to recharge or change batteries (energy autonomous systems). The desire for autonomous self-powered systems has led to considerable research into systems that harvest or scavenge energy from the garments wearer. Human energy is primarily stored as fat (other energy forms are very limited) and is first available for harvesting during metabolism when it is converted into heat and movement. On average, muscles convert just 25% of chemical energy to mechanical movement, while the remaining 75% is dissipated as heat. As a result, potential energy which can be harvested using piezo electronic or mechanical technologies is extremely limited. Despite this, the primary focus of research activities has been on technologies for harvesting mechanical energy. In Europe, research on several fronts has been driven by projects within the EU 6th and 7th 19 Framework programmes: In 2007, the 6th Framework project, Vibration Energy Scavenging (‘VIBES’ ), 20 demonstrated a piezoelectric micro-generator and the current E-Stars project (2008-2011) aims to develop an autonomous smart micro system with sensing and communication capability powered by an integrated 3D high capacity micro battery based upon exploitation of the latest deposition processes for micro layers. The 2009 FP7 ICT call, called in topic 3.9 for projects to develop autonomous energy efficient smart systems and smart fabrics, although no smart textile projects were selected. While design of entirely energy autonomous integrated systems is not likely with existing technologies, researchers expect emergence of technologies that will make this possible within the next10 years. The 21 CATRENE report of 2009 concludes that while output from current harvesting technologies may be limited, the continual decrease of energy demanded by electronic systems and the increase of the energy stored and/or harvested by the generation systems is reducing the gap between needs and potential supplies so that use of intermediate storage and smart power management strategies can bring development of autonomous systems within reach. Piezo electronics : In principle, mechanical energy may be harvested from any human movement, whether generated by muscles or gravity. Demonstrated examples include torque driven generators at the joints, acceleration driven devices at the limbs, force or torque (rubbing or bending) driven embedded fibres, force driven "switches" in the soles of shoes or boots and force driven devices harvesting chest 22 expansion during inspiration (Starner, 1996 ). Focus for many wearable technologies is on size, and although developments in MEMS (Micro-ElectroMechanical Systems) technology have made it possible to reduce mechanical generator units to a size 23 that makes their integration in smart garments feasible , their very small size also means that mechanical moving elements are limited in weight and movement and as a result operate at relatively high resonance frequencies (10 kHz) while human movements have a typical frequency of maximum 10Hz. Perhaps as a result of this, demonstrated devices using electrostatic, piezoelectric and electromagnetic principles, report outputs between 60µW (with a mass of 2g@ 571 Hz a device of 0.2 cm2 is possible) and 300 µW for even the most efficient devices (CATRENE report 2009). Thermal harvesting : Since muscles are relatively inefficient converters of chemical to mechanical energy, a substantial amount of energy used during physical activity is released as heat. The process involved in scavenging energy from heat is based upon the Seebeck effect which defines output voltage as proportional to the temperature difference between two materials. Since differences in body temperature are limited, output voltages of 25 - 50mV are typical using a 10cm2 thermal harvester. Body-worn applications thus far have shown ultra-low output voltages in the region of 10’s of milli-volts and the horizon for commercially mature and viable technologies is distant. Solar cells : Solar cells are the preferred devices to achieve power autonomy in consumer products. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 23

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Since printing technologies are not yet robust enough to withstand direct print onto textile media or to withstand folding or laundry in wearable applications, current solutions are generally foil based technologies “attached” to a wearable or textile substrate. Companies like German Interactive Wear offer such a “standard” solution based upon commercially available flexible cells for integration onto garments and accessories. Outside the wearable segment, solar cells mounted on textile substrates are widely available as rollable and lightweight solar chargers for mobile phones and other consumer electronic devices. Tents for the military and for humanitarian aid projects are also emerging commercially, as are sunshade solutions with solar cells mounted on architectural fabrics. The greatest challenges are still with surface coatings, but this is also where much research effort is currently focussed, with potentially greatly increased cell lifetimes and robustness once this is solved. In the mean time accessories such as bags, which don’t have the same needs for laundering, are widely available with integrated solar charging for the mid range consumer market. More recently, well-known designers and brands such as Samsonite have launched bags with solar chargers in their range. Batteries and storage technologies : Intermediate energy storage is necessary for most energy harvesting concepts, including solar power, due to the varying availability of ambient energy and the power needs of micro-devices. In most cases however, intermediate storage is via a secondary micro battery and use of dynamic power management strategies. With the recent introduction of the ‘printable battery’ (typically low-power lithium batteries using thin-film deposition techniques), requirements to size (0.01-0.5mm thick), weight and flexibility are being reached, although this technology is currently still limited to a ‘patch’ type attachment process and is unlikely to 24 survive being printed directly onto a flexible woven or knitted structure . Energy storage capabilities for state of the art thin film batteries are currently in the region of 200Wh/litre. References 1.

http://www.viking-life.com/viking.nsf

http://www.globefiresuits.com/globe/whats-new/

17. http://www.equivital.co.uk/

http://www.raesystems.com/products/lifeshirt

ht tp:/ /www.go ogle.c om /int l/e n/la ndin g/ mytrackstour/

18. http://www.zephyr-technology.com/products/ bioharness-bt

http://www.contagiousmagazine.com/2010/01/ guinness_7.php

http://gerbing.com/

http://www.alpenheat.com/

http://www.forsterrohner.ch/ index.php?id=4&L=1

http://www.diffus.dk/

10. http://www.cutecircuit.com/ 11. http://www.place-it-project.eu/ 12. http://www.pasta-project.eu/ 13. htt p:// www. plus plas tic e lec t roni cs.c om/ SmartFabTextiles/South-Korea-backs-militarysmart-textiles11752.aspx 14. http://www.hhmglobal.com/knowledge-bank/ articles/health-spending-projections-through2015-changes-on-the-horizon 15. http://www.cdc.gov/chronicdisease/resources/ publications/AAG/chronic.htm 16. http://ec.europa.eu/information_society/activities/health/docs/studies/business_model/

business_models_eHe alth_report.pdf

19. http://www.vibes.ecs.soton.ac.uk/ 20. http://www.estarsproject.org/scripts/home/publigen/ c o n t e n t / t e m p l a t e s / show.asp?L=EN&P=55&vTicker=alleza 21. Bellevill M., Cantatore E., Fanet H., Fiorini P., Nicole P., Pelgrom M., Piguet C., Hahn R.,Van Hoof C., Vullers R., Tartagni M.: CATRENE Scientific Committee White Paper 'Energy Autonomous Systems: Future Trends in Devices, Technology, and Systems' (August 2009) http://www2.imec.be/content/user/File/ EAS_report_v28.pdf 22. Starner T. 'Human-powered wearable computing'. IBM Systems Journal, 35, 1996. 23. R. Elfrink, T. M. Kamel, M. Goedbloed, S. Matova, D. Hohlfeld, R. van Schaijk, R. Vullers 'Vibration Energy Harvesting With Aluminum Nitride-Based Piezoelectric Devices' Proc. of the PowerMEMS Int. Workshop, Sendai, Nov 10-11 2008, pp 249 – 252. 24. Southee, D.J. Hay, G.I., Evans, P.E. Harrison, D.J. 'Lithographically printed voltaic cells – a feasibility study', Circuit World Vol 3 Issue 1, pp 31-35. Ohmatex ApS INCUBA Science Park – Skejby Brendstrupgaardsvej 102 DK-8200 Aarhus N (Denmark) ph: +45 86 20 51 67 Email: atj@ohmatex.dk

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Nano-Enabled Protective Textiles Rising health and safety concerns for those exposed to dangerous environments or high risk professions has increased demand for improved protective apparel and accessories. Protective textiles are part of the Personal Protective Equipments (PPE) family and represents a specific area of the advanced technical textiles sector, a strongly growing market for the textile industry, satisfying an increasing demand for high performance requirements. Personal protective textiles are produced with the aim of eliminating or minimising the risk of injuries, accidents and infections, acting as shields against chemical, biological and nuclear hazards, high temperatures and fire, sharp objects, and ballistic projectiles. Protective textiles have been selected by the European Commission as one of the areas of the Lead Market Initiative for Europe, aimed at creating an innovation-friendly market framework to re-launch conventional industrial sectors and reduce time to market of new goods and services. In this context, nanotechnologies may play a fundamental role. Novel surface treatments and coatings, nanocomposite and nano-scale fibres, and functional nanoparticles offer textile products providing improved levels of protection together with a lower weight, higher comfort, new or multi-functionalities, or more environmentally friendly processes. The use of dynamic materials integrated in clothing can enable safety products to react to chemicals, biological agents, or changing external conditions. Smart materials combine electronics with textiles allowing for tracking of the wearer, monitoring of physiologic parameters, and energy provision for communication functions. This paper summarises the advantages offered by nano-enabled technical textiles in the protective textiles sector. Who needs PPE? Personal protective equipment is required in a number of settings including : •

Professionals and workers operating in hazardous environments or dangerous situations such as the security and emergency services;

•

Hospitals, for effective hygiene and comfort of patients and healthcare workers, providing protection from bacterial contamination and providing new functionalities;

•

Sport and outdoor activities to protect from injuries and/or extreme climatic conditions;

•

Defence and military personnel, to protect soldiers from enemy and environmental threats.

Currently available protective textiles (aramids such as Kevlar) are often heavy, bulky, and uncomfortable with limited protective performance.These characteristics limit their use; this is where nano-enabled textiles may provide a solution. Nanotechnologies add value Due to their enabling character and the unique properties of materials at nanoscale, nanotechnologies are particularly suitable for use in technical protective textiles. Their use in this sector is still at an early stage, with research following two main paths : 1. Upgrading functions and performances of existing PPE. 2. Development of products with unprecedented characteristics and performance. These development streams gives rise to two main classes of products: functional protective textiles and smart/intelligent protective textiles. Some of these materials have reached the market, but it must be stressed that many with the most innovative features have not been tested at full scale, remaining in the early stages of development. Functional Protective Textiles Although still at a preliminary stage of development, examples of nano-enabled PPE abound in many fields of application including : • Protection from chemical toxins, toxic agents and poisonous gases: PPE, which protects against harmful agents such as mustard gas or carbon monoxide, have been realised with textiles containing NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 25

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nanoparticles of magnesium oxide, dendrimers or gold and have been shown as more effective than the more commonly utilised charcoal. Further single walled carbon nanotubes (SWCNT) based sensors have been developed for detection of nerve gas agents. • Impact protection : Textiles containing inorganic fullerenes, or multi-walled carbon nano-tubes, have shown a superior protection from ballistic impact, in laboratory compared to current materials. Under development is an intelligent fabric called “Liquid Armour” consists of 3D spacer textile treated with a specially formulated silicon coating; it remains soft and flexible under normal conditions but becomes instantly rigid when stressed by an impact before returning immediately to a flexible state. • Protection from heat and fire : Many nanomaterials (including titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide, clays, and layered double hydroxide) have shown promise as flame retardant additives, enhancers of flame retardant coatings, and providing flame resistance. • Protection from extreme temperatures : Textiles with exceptional insulation performance, providing protection against very low or high temperatures, have been obtained with aerogels (nanoporous structures of amorphous silica gel). These textiles will be advantageous for those working in harsh environments, but also for extreme sport/outdoor activities. • Protection from UV radiation : Textiles exhibiting UV blocking properties find wide application, mostly in sport/outdoor garments. Such properties are obtained by coating textiles with nanoparticles of zinc oxide, or titanium dioxide, and represents one of the first examples of the application of nanotechnologies to the textile sector. • Protection against microbes and bacteria : This feature will provide protective clothing for patients and medical workers, wound dressings, bed linen, masks amongst others but may also be applied to sportswear particularly in terms of odour control. Antimicrobial/antibacterial activity is obtained using silver nanoparticles. Copper and titanium dioxide nanoparticles have also been tested for this purpose. • Water repellent and stain resistant clothing : Breathability and comfort is highly desirable for a workplace, sport/outdoor activities, combat situations, but also in everyday clothing. Water-repellent and self cleaning textiles can be obtained by nanoscale modification of the surface roughness resulting in water and dirt rolling off the surface; however, water vapour may still pass through ensuring breathability. Such products are already on the market. These properties may be combined in multifunctional textiles allowing for protection against extreme environmental conditions combined with light weight, antibacterial properties, protection against biological, chemical threats, and ballistic impact. Such products have undergone testing, most notably within the military sector, but there is potential for exploitation in the civilian sector opening wider market opportunities. Smart/Intelligent Protective Textiles Smart and interactive/intelligent textiles are the next challenge for nano-enhanced PPE. Nano-enabled fibres and fabrics allowing for the integration of sensors and electronic devices make the development of garments with new, intelligent functions possible. These garments have the capability to capture inputs (electrical, thermal, chemical, magnetic or other) from the surroundings or the wearer, and respond accordingly to them. They can also self-generate (by incorporating photovoltaic devices for example) or store energy for powering communication functions Such innovative products, some already quite close to large production but mostly still at experimental level, can help to provide personalised control and healthcare to patients by allowing the monitoring of physiologic parameters. These capabilities offer an important survival tool to professionals operating in dangerous situations (firemen, policemen, rescue teams etc.) where the monitoring of physiologic parameters, position and/or tracking can be of paramount importance. The activity in this field involves both academia and industry, but the US army has been historically the leader in this field. Nevertheless, the technologies developed have potential for wider commercial application providing attractive business opportunities; for example extreme sports consumers are often willing to pay a premium in return for higher product performance. Impacts Economic/Industry According to Nanotechnology: a UK Industry View, nanoscale technology related market revenue for the NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 26

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textiles sector in 2007 was valued at $122m (nanocoatings $120m, smart materials and sensors $1m, and nanofibres/ nanotubes $2m). The growth of this sector is expected to be important. The forecast figure for 2015 is $2170m (coatings $1850m, smart materials and sensors $125m, and nanofibres/ nanotubes $195m).

Fig. 1a : PPE World Demand Europe

30%

Asia

27%

America

37%

Approximately 200,000 jobs are thought to exist in production of Rest : 6% PPE and related industries in Europe, including 35-40,000 employees in firms which provide related services. The EU market Fig. 1b : PPE World Production for PPE has been estimated to be worth Euros 9.5-10 billion. Europe : 35% Recently PPE-related job growth in Europe has stabilised due to the economic crisis and indeed industrial production of PPE America : 30% decreased by 2.4% during 2009. In the short-medium term, the Rest : 35% market for these products is expected to grow with a relative stability, due to a positive upward trend underpinned by a rising awareness of personal protection and some catch-up demand in the new Member States, which are pushing the demand for a new generation of protective products. Overall, the PPE market is expected to grow by 7.6% in the 2012-2016 period. Moreover, the development of innovative technologies in high-tech domains such as the space and defence industries is driving the development transferred to other textile sectors, including non wearable interior textiles (buildings and transport vehicles) and consumer products (sport and out-door garments and fashion). These markets are much larger than the core market, thus providing further opportunities for such enhanced textiles. Manufacturing of protective textiles is distributed across Europe. Textile finishing operations are generally concentrated in Central and Western Europe, and garment making is more widely found in Southern and Eastern Europe as well as some neighbouring countries in the PanEuro-Med zone; however, some small scale, specialised garment making operations are present in northwestern Europe. The outside-EU market doubles that of the Europe, offering possibilities to increase EU exports substantially. The new EU Member States in Eastern Europe, Ukraine, Russia and Asia are the fastest growing areas. Market access in Asia is restricted in terms of exports and public procurement (public administrations have a strong impact in the economy and it is a potential market for innovative products and services in sectors such construction, defence, security and emergency operations). If access to such markets is improved, EU exports could grow by 50% over the next 5 to 10 years. Societal/Impact on European Citizen Increasing consciousness of risk prevention for those working in dangerous conditions (for example in smelters or contaminated environments) or emergency services such as firemen, policemen and security services has created a strong societal â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;pullâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for innovative products providing high quality, performance and greater protection. The EU strategy for 2007-2012 on workplace health and safety sets out a requirement to identify situations of exposure and to design preventive solutions and innovative technologies to deal with new risks. A high level of competence and excellence in textile and multidisciplinary research is crucial to respond quickly to security needs with strong quality and innovation capacity. Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advanced textile industry claims to be qualified to respond to this challenge. The increasing demand for high added-value protective textiles is a driver for the modernisation of the more traditional textile manufacturing industry producing a clear positive impact on the competitiveness of the sector. As with all technological developments, nano-enabled protective textiles should be developed in a responsible and sustainable way. No information has been identified which suggests that the developments highlighted will give rise to specific ethical or societal issues. Technology Readiness Levels Challenges To ensure industrial commercialization of nano-products and development of an advanced European textile industry a number of issues must be addressed : NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 27

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The cost of manufacturing and selling prices must be reduced to ensure cost effectiveness;

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Affordable enforcement of intellectual property protection is required;

•

A need for improved marketing capabilities at the (high tech) supplier side;

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The bottlenecks of public procurement which often slow/stifle the adoption of the most innovative solutions must be overcome;

•

A need for widely adopted nano-related Standards and Regulation.

•

Control and evaluation of the effects on human health and the environment of nano-related products are necessary.

Fig 2 : TRL for nano-enabled protective textiles The last two challenges above, crucial to the success of these products, refer to their entire life cycle from production to disposal. So far, existing regulation is considered sufficient to deal with nano-related products; however, continued research to clarify the effects of nanomaterials on human health and the environment is advocated together with the adoption of a precautionary approach when a potentially high risk is envisaged. EU Competitive Position In the frame of the initiatives taken to strengthen and promote the European competitive position, the European Commission has selected protective textiles as one of six markets, considered to be responsive to consumer and societal needs and capable of reshaping an industrial sector important to the European landscape. An action plan has been set up that acts at various levels: legislation, public procurement, standardization, labelling, intellectual property, and financial instruments. It is believed that, due to the strong growth forecast in some areas of the world, European PPE exports could grow by almost 50% in the coming years. Compared to Asia and the USA, Europe has a strong position both in terms of research capabilities and private enterprises, as well as in terms of markets driven by safety regulations. Of course, the defence market in the USA is substantially larger than that of Europe (or of Asia) offering US based competitors an attractive launch market for advanced high cost technologies. Nevertheless the EU sector is considered competitive and of above critical mass size and diversity. Based on several industry inventories one can identify a number of key companies such; Elmarco (CZ), TenCate (NL), d3o(UK), Peratech(UK), Smartex (IT), Slam (IT), Grado Zero Espace (IT), Mectex (IT), Thuasne France (FR), Intelesens (UK), Steiger (CH), iXscient (UK), Nanocyl (BE), Devan Chemicals (BE), Norafin Industries GmbH (DE), Vandeputte Safety (BE) and Bekaert Textiles Group ( BE). Summary •

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is increasingly important in the quest to eliminate or minimise the risk of injuries, accidents, and infections rising from a variety of threats and environments. Protective textiles/clothing represents a growing component of this sector.

•

Protective textiles have been selected by the European Commission as one of the areas of the Lead Market Initiative for Europe, aimed to create an innovation-friendly market framework and to reinvigorate and increase competitiveness of traditional industries.

•

Nanotechnologies can play a fundamental role in the development of improved or novel multifunctional protective textiles by providing higher levels of protection, lower weight and bulkiness, and higher levels of comfort. Moreover, nanotechnologies, by facilitating the integration of electronics into NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 28

EXECUTIVE PAGES

garments, make possible the development of smart/intelligent textiles that allow tracking, monitoring and control of physiological parameters, generation of energy for powering wearable equipments and communication functions. •

Approximately 200,000 jobs are thought to exist in production of PPE and related industries in Europe, including 35-40,000 employees in firms which provide related services.

•

The EU market for PPE has been estimated to be worth Euros 9.5-10 billion.

•

Compared to Asia and the USA, Europe has a competitive position both in terms of companies and R&D, as well as in terms of a market driven by increasingly rigorous safety regulations.

•

Economical and industrial challenges must be overcome to attain the full success of nano-enabled protective textiles, which have to assure their safety with respect of EHS issues, along their entire life cycle.

“Applications ofTiO2 Nanofibers Produced by Nanospider™Technology In addition to polymeric nanofibers, Nanospider™ technology allows to make ceramic electrospun nanofibers composed of a whole range of metal oxides. Compared to classical sol-gel approaches used to produce nanoparticles, electrospinning enables synthesis of nanofibers of the same materials with much more defined architecture and a narrow range of sizes. Combination of these features and specific material´s properties makes ceramic nanofibers very attractive for many application fields. In particular, ttitanium dioxide - TiO2 - nanofibers can be useful in the development and the realization of devices with advanced functionality for various markets. It is the unique combination of very high surface area (hundreds of square meters per gramm) and intrinsic semiconductive properties of TiO2 that is responsible for an enormous potential of this novel material. TiO2 nanofibers find their playground in photocatalysis, which is a very important cleaning process of our every day´s life. It is taking place on our household paintings, during disinfection of air in our air-conditioners up to large water cleaning stations used in industries of dyes and pigments. Furthermore, TiO2 nanofibers can be used in cosmetics. TiO2 is one of the main components of sun lotions and is used there for its ability to absorb the UV light, thus protecting our skin from unwanted effects. Moreover, in contrast to nanoparticles, there is no risk of penetration through the skin due to its architecture and sizes that do not match with the skin pores. Another possible application of TiO2 nanofibes lies within photovoltaic technology. The so-called dyesensitized solar cell is composed of a TiO2 layer with a suitable dye (commonly a ruthenium dye) anchored on its surface. Since efficiency of such solar cells is also dependent on the amount of dye and the electron collection, it is very desired to have high surface area nanofibers that can be loaded with enough dye and help to transport electrons with less recombination. Very important from the environmental point of view, TiO2 and similar nanofibers could be used as catalytically active materials in the automotive industry. In particular, these low-cost and thermally stable materials can catalyse reactions leading to the reduction of the huge amount of greenhouse gases (CO2, CO, NOx etc.) produced by combustion of fuels in engines of vehicles. The improvement of the catalytic acivity over conventional layers of sintered nanoparticles lies in the availability of a large surface area and an easy transport of a reactant (gas) to the active sites on each nanofiber. Last, but not least, these materials provide clearly a much cheaper alternative to noble metals that are used currently in catalytic applications and are very expensive. All in all, it is clear that these new materials with an unique nanofiber structure and guaranteed industrial productions rates will have great potential for manifold applications and will certainly contribute to ever increasing importance of nanotechnology. Nanospider™ technology is a patented, needle-free high voltage, free liquid surface electrospinning process. The technology is based upon the discovery, that it is possible to create Taylor Cones and the subsequent flow of material not only from the tip of a capillary, but also from a thin film of a polymer solution. The technology enabled Elmarco to build industrial scale production equipment with out nozzles, needles or spinnerets. Nanospider™ technology allows the production of nanofibers from polymers solved in water, acids or bipolar solvents as well as from melted polymers and is suitable for the production of organic and inorganic fibers. This versatile technology is easily adapted to a variety of process parameters for the optimization of the specific properties of the produced nanofibers. Nanospider™ technology uses simply shaped electrodes, partially submerged in a polymer solution, is mechanically simple and has no parts easily clogged (in comparison to needle-type electrospinning).

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 29

EXECUTIVE PAGES

Processing & Finishing of Polyester Rus-Gulla Dress The Process sequence of Polyester (Ras-Gulla) Dress from grey to the finished stage is carried out as follows 2400 mts. : Grey fabric Warp 75/36-48 filament bright site 11 Kgs./100 mts. Weft 75/36 Crep Scouring / Desizing Soda Ash Levocol TFL Sodium Hydro Sulphite Scouring Agent (Levocol SCR) Temperature 1000C./30 mins.

2000 500 1000

gms. gms. gms.

500

gms.

Normal Weight Reduction (Temperature 1300C./30 mins.) Sodium Hydro sulphite Caustic Soda Scouring Agent (Levocol SCR) Defoamer

250 gms. 25kgs to 30kgs (As per requirement).

1500 100

gms. gms.

Hot Wash (600C. to 700C./10 mins.) Acid Wash (Temperature 800C.-900C./15 mins.) HCL Oxalic Acid

1000 to 1500 500 gms.

gms.

Optical Whitening (Temperature 1300C./30 mins.) White R Acetic Acid Defoamer

0.25% OWF 500 gms. 100 gms. (If required).

Cold Wash with 500 gms. Acetic Acid Setting for Printing(Levocol PB 0.4%) Printing Loop ager at 1700C./8 mins. or Pressure ager at 25/30 psi/30mins. Reduction Clear Hydro extraction Setting and finising. For Dryfil For Microfil

Use Dryfil agent Iner - expoxy base Surfase - Silicon + Polyurethane.

Above process may vary from customer to customer. This information is provided in good faith, to the best of our knowledge and without liabilities This page is sponsored by : Colourtex Pvt. Ltd.

Email : pradeep.mistry@colourtex.co.in

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 30

EXECUTIVE PAGES

Nanocatalyst for Dye Removal from Waste Water Factories across the world are dumping thousands of tonnes of untreated dyes into rivers and waterways every year. The majority of these dyes are toxic to the environment and may lead to mutations and cancers in animals. Particularly in textile industries where considerable amounts of water and chemicals are used during the dyeing process the wastewater contains about 20% of dye as well as organic matter, salts and other substances. Also since synthetic dyes are used to resist bleaching by UVlight and chemicals to improve the quality of the textiles, they are also persistent in the environment and some dyes can be biologically modified into carcinogenic compounds. For example azo dyes, a commonly used dye to color fabrics can cause cancer if released into the environment with wastewater. Removal of color from dye wastewater : The release of untreated wastewater has high color, high chemical oxygen demand, low biodegradabilityand high variability, it poses a threat to the animal and human health, environment and the most serious problems are ground water and surface water pollution. Further, the discharge of colored effluents into water bodies affects the sunlight penetration which in turn decreases both the photosynthetic activity and dissolved oxygen levels. The removal of dyes from wastewater is one of the major environmental challenges. Removal techniques : Wastewater containing dye is conventionally filtered using activated carbon. However, the carbon can only be used once and is then commonly disposed of in landfill sites. Biotechnological treatment methods called dye remediation can be used for the treatment of dyes using biological and physico-chemical techniques. Different techniques are adopted to treat dye wastewater including adsorption, catalytic oxidation, chemical oxidation, photocatalysis, electrochemical process, biodegradation and catalytic wet oxidation by adding catalysts and oxidants to improve the oxidation rate. Catalytic wet oxidation : Catalytic wet oxidation process is usually carried out at high temperature and pressure, which restrict its wide application. More and more efforts have been focused on developing new processes to improve the efficiency of CWO, such as the preparation of new type heterogeneous catalysts with high catalytic activity. CeO2 or CeO2-based oxides materials by virtue of their large surface area exhibit greater catalytic activity in CWO. Recovery : It is very hard to recover pure CeO2 or CeO2-based oxides powders from water when they are used in aqueous systems. Coating the particles onto other materials is the promising method to resolve this problem. Supports of silica and ?-Al2O3 have been used to prepare the CeO2-based catalysts, but, the supports, synthesized by chemical reactions have inherent defects such high cost, time consuming reaction and low surface area. Natural nanostructural material : Attapulgite (ATP) is a crystalline hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate with reactive â&#x20AC;&#x201C;OH groups on its surface with a structure of zeolite-like channels. Due to its regular structure and large specific surface area, ATP has been used as absorbent, catalyst and catalyst support. Zhao et al. prepared copper modified palygorskite/TiO2 photocatalyst by hydrolysis method, which exhibited much higher activity than that of the pure titanium dioxides in the degradation of methylene blue. In addition, it was reported that the redox couple (Ce3+/Ce4+) in contact with metal particles promoted the catalytic activity in ceria-based materials. It is effective way to enhance the catalytic reaction rate that modified the palygorskite clay with copper ions since addition of rare metal ions to CeO2-based catalytic systems.

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 31

An Overview of Garment Finishing The know -how of denim finishing is regarded as an essential element in garment manufacturing and also in jeans washing. For the fabric production, a large number of finishing chemicals are available worldwide which provide the demanded fabric properties such as good sewability, stiffness, elasticity and handle. The other field of interest is that of laundring procedures for ready -made clothing such as trousers, jackets or skirts, shirts. Many errors may occur in the complicated production process. The laundry, the last step in the sequence of producers, is faced with difficulties which are caused by previous inaccuracies. Therefore, a good coordination among the steps of jeans manufacturing is required to avoid problems. Fabric producer, garment manufacturer and laundries have to work together to obtain the desired end result. One has to, therefore, identify the eventual problems and work on to modify production procedures according to the respective requirements. This write-up is aimed at helping to solve shopfloor problems. Garment " Processing" A few years ago garment treatment was related to the washing of blue and black denim. Nowadays, a much more extensive treatment of garments is carried out in the laundries, e.g. dyeing, wrinkle -free finish, coating by spraying etc. Therefore, it is also called garment processing. The finishing of a garment is particularly challenging, as it is a product which is already processed to a large extent. Because denim fashion was the beginning of todayÂ´s garment treatment and especially because jeans washing is still the most part of the treated garments we present some worth knowing items about "denim". Denim" Fashion" Denim â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this word derives from "Serge de Nimesâ&#x20AC;&#x153;, a coarse cotton fabric which was manufactured in the Provence during the previous century. The designation denim fabric is used for fabrics on the market containing a dyed warp yarn and a greige white

cotton filling. The warp yarn may be dyed with sulphur, pigment or reactive dyestuffs. However, indigo-dyed blue denim is dominating. As a rule the warp yarn is dyed on continuous dyeing machines in form of a warp or cable. The continuous dyed yarn is usually dried in one step and afterwards, the sizing process follows immediatelly. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 32

For sizing of the coarse cotton yarns which are usually used for denim fabrics sizing agents based on modified starch are preferred. Often these sizing agents contain additional omponents like acrylates in order to reduce dust problems and waxes to improve the lubrication effect. After weaving the denim fabric is fin-

An Overview of Garment Finishing ished. In finishing the sought after stiff hand which eases garment making of this material needs to be provided. In addition, chemicals are applied which improve the sewability. By mechanical means the necessary fabric stability and the shrinkage properties must be adjusted to prevent shrinkage in the following jeans washing process. Finishing is usually carried out on continuous ranges comprising a singe, a padder, a can dryer and a sanforizing unit.

Completion of the Garment (Garment Finishing)

On a can dryer the fabric is dried to approximately 20 % residual moisture. With this humidity the fabric is stabilized on the following sanforizing unit. Then, a fabric finished in this way comes to cutting and sewing and finally to laundring. Targets of " Jeans" Washing" Besides the handle and softness to improve the wear comfort of the previously very stiff fabric the improvement of the optical appearance of the ready -made garment is the most important target of jeans washing. Stone -wash, Moon - wash, Used Look or Rodeo -wash, to name a few fashion trends, require considerable know -how from the laundry but also from the textile auxiliary supplier as its partner. The avoidance of problems like uneveness, crease marks, streaks and spots, reduced tensile and tear strength, staining on white parts of the cloth, poor handle, too high shrinkage, rust formation on metal parts (corrosion), poor contrast between warp and weft, colour changes of indigo-dyed textiles caused by radicals like ozone and nitrogen oxides in the air and many others is very demanding of the jeans washing to obtain high quality and good reproducibility. Ecological compatibility is the latest aim of jeans laundering which nowadays gains greater importance,

Desizing removes starch on warp without causing the strip on your garment with the desired hue indigo ( dark or pale shade) . Bio wash garment finishing can be applied to the light and heavy fabrics such as jeans, trousers, indigo denim, with the result of abrasion and enzyme effect are evenly distributed to obtain contrast between the blue with white, soft/smooth surface and without any sign of scratches on the fabric. Stone wash washing applied to indigo denim, jeans or other heavy fabric with craftsmanship using mineral substances. The enzyme effect is evenly distributed to obtain contrast between the blue with white and soft fabric. Ecolite unique garment finishing aimed at menghilangan color indigo denim fabric to produce grayish shades of denim, and less likely to affect the strength and durability of fiber. Silicon garment finishing is suitable for coating of all types of fabrics including woven and knitted fabrics. This process aims to improve the grip. The fabric becomes more supple, soft, smooth, durable and hydrophobic without causing yellowish effect on garment. Bleaching process of eliminating or reducing the indigo color with whitish level garment tailored to the desires of consumers. Dyeing garment and staining methods on the garment with some of them. Retro dye dyeing for all types of cotton garments, including gray cloth and indigo denim. It produces brilliant color, contrasting textures and strong erosion on the surface of a soft fabric, without any garment disfigurement. Over dye dyeing is designed to be applied in all kinds of garments including cotton indigo denim for producing dark colors. Pigment dye dyeing is applied for all kinds of cotton and cotton fibers, such as denim, jeans, sweatshirts and shirts. This system gives a variety of shades of a color. Cross dye dyeing is designed to be applied on fabric made of fiber/yarn mixed of different colors. This leads to staining of one of the fibers/yarns.

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 33

An Overview of Garment Finishing especially in regard to bleaching. Hypochlorite -free bleaching may be an answer for it. Main Processes in the " Laundry" • Pre -treatment • Stone and/or Enzyme Wash • Effect Adjustment • Bleaching • Colour Adjustment • Finishing (Handle Adjustment) Pre-treatment This step is the basic, but most important part of washing. Related to the final target. we have to take the extra precaution in this part. This process has 3 main targets; removing the impurities coming from the fabric, desizing of woven fabrics and decreasing the crease risk while removing the impurities either from the cotton or at the manufacturing stage garment can contain some impurities. These impurities can be based on oil, alkaline or acidic chemicals and all of them can cause several problems in the next steps of washing. In this step a professional laundry man has to decide about the risk and he has to use the suitable auxiliaries to remove these impurities. Desizing All of the woven fabrics contain size on them. During the weaving processes there can be two main problems; one is breaking of the yarn because of high friction and second is dust formation. Desizing is the solution of these problems, because sizes are making a choppy film on surface and improves the tensile strength and directly causes better efficiency. However, this size becomes a problem so it must be removed in washing. There are several types of size available in the market. But they can be divided in two groups -water soluble sizes (CMC or PVA based sizes)

Different trends in denim jeans NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 34

An Overview of Garment Finishing Em b r o i d er y Embroidery in today's market has basically become a powerful advertising tool. The corporate/institutional clients are putting their business or product logo on garments for the purpose of getting their name out in the marketplace. In this respect, embroidery has become a powerful, inexpensive way to promote a product or business. Process: It all starts with an idea!!! The embroidery process begins with an idea or a piece of artwork. That artwork then has to be "digitized" which is the specialized process of converting 2 dimensional artwork into stitches or thread. Contrary to popular opinion, you cannot take a particular format of art such as a jpeg, tif, eps, bmp, and convert it to an embroidery tape. Digitizing is much more than that. The digitizer has to actually recreate the artwork using stitches...in a sense...the digitizer is programming the sewing machine to sew a specific design, in a specific color, with a specific type of stitch. This is the process known as digitizing. Also, because embroidery is in a sense 3 dimensional, some exciting effects can be included to "spruce up" a normally flat piece of artwork. Production: Once the artwork has been digitized, it is then ready to be put into production. Production embroidery is a very hands on process. Before the process of sewing can begin, specific thread colors must be loaded by hand into the machines. A spool of thread for each color for each sewing head must be loaded. The machine itself is programmed by the operator to sew the design in a par-

ticular color sequence and a particular sewing speed. The garments must then be "hooped" individually, again by hand, and then loaded into the machine. Once the design has completed sewing, the garment is off loaded from the machine, un-hooped, and then sent to the next step in the production process. Finishing: After the garments have been sewn, they go through a finishing process. During this step, the garments are inspected for quality, individually trimmed of excess backing material and excess threads, then folded and packaged ready for shipping to the end user. Customers have the option of polybagging which takes place in this step. Polybagging involves individually folding each garment and placing in into a plastic bag preserving it from stains and dust.

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 35

An Overview of Garment Finishing and dissolvable sizes in water (starch based Sizes). Starch based sizes still are used widely and have the biggest market share because of their cheap prices and easy purchase conditions. There are different methods to remove the size. These are : 1. Washing with high alkalis 2. Washing with high acids 3. Washing with oxidative chemicals 4. Enzymatic desizng with -amylases First three methods are difficult, risky and expensive methods in the laundry business because of this nearly all of the market prefers enzymatic desizing. The liquor to goods ratio is usually between 5:1 and 8:1. Depending on the machine and jeans quality a lower machine loading may be required if the washed garment shows streaks. Usually, the jeans are loaded with the left side turned outside. Especially, jeans which are sensitive to formation of washing marks, e.g. goods which have been in stock for a long time, may require steaming (topping) or turning the garments inside out to obtain washing results without streaks. Desizing Recipe 0.5-1 g/l

Amylase enzyme

0.5 - 1 g/l

Wetting agent

0.5 - 1 g/l

Dispersing agent

Temp.

55 -60°C

6.5 - 7

Time

10 min

Washing machines at work After a garment is dyed it is sent to the washing machines to be washed. Here the garments undergo washes such as enzyme washes, stone washes, bleach washes etc. After washing the garments are sent to the dryers for drying after the water is extracted from them.

water, loading capacity and rotation/ speed of drum. Chemical reaction based creases : These are the creases related to the wetting time of fabric or unevenness in auxiliary applications. Fabric based creases : These are the creases caused during the production of the fabric. Useful Chemical Auxiliaries :

Anti Back-staining Agent It is used in stone wash/after washing to reduce back staining. The backstaining is caused due to re-deposition of loose indigo, or indigo dyed short fibres, removed during desizing, stonewashing or enzyme washing. Re-deposited Indigo reduces the contrast between warp and undyed weft. It also stains pockets and labels. Redeposited indigo is more prone to ozone and yellowing

Wetting " Dispersing" Agent Used in desizing process.

Back-staining is, therefore, highly undesirable in denim washing.

Drain

Rinsing - 50 -60°C; 2 min

•

Drain

Rinsing - 20 -25°C; 2 min

•

Must rapidly wet out jeans.

Anti-creasing Agent

Prevention of creases

•

One of the main problems in laundry business is creases. We can classify creases into different groups depending on their causes.

Prevents white lines caused by rigid creases.

Prevents crease formation during the washing procsess.

•

Permits penetration of amylase to ensure complete desizing.

•

Increases the loading capacity of the washing machine.

•

Prevents back staining of loose indigo onto weft yarns and pockets.

•

Reduces the stone spots risk during the stone wash procsess.

Mechine based creases : these are the creases related to the ratio of

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 36

Application of Biotechnology in Jute Processing Dr Nimai Chandra Pan, Dr Sambhu Nath Chattopadhyay and Dr Ashim Kumar Roy Chemical & Biochemical Processing Division National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology Indian Council of Agricultural Research 12 Regent Park, Kolkata – 700 040, India Introduction

E + S = [ E - S ] -----> E + P

Biotechnology has several applications in textile processing field. It is the application of living organisms and their components to industrial processes. The term biotechnology is used to refer to the textiles that are based on enzymes. Enzymes are proteins which catalyze specific chemical reactions and are termed as biocatalysts. It comes from natural systems and acts on the living cells. Enzyme works in atmospheric pressure and at low temperature. Enzyme reacts only with a specific substrate which fits within the active sites of the molecule. Several works on bio-processing of cotton in the name of biopolishing was already done. It is the cellulase action to remove the fine surface fuzz and fibrils from the cotton fabric. It helps to eliminate pilling and provides better surface texture, drapability, colour brightness, print definition and softness. It also helps to increase the absorbency property of the fabric. In-depth work on bio-processing of jute was not investigated yet. At the pretreatment stage some work like bioscouring of jute was done by the authors but no work was reported on the application of biotechnology in the colouration of jute fabric. Mechanism of enzyme action Two phases of enzyme action follows the Michaelis – Menton equation which is expressed in the simplified form as follows :

Enzyme + Substrate -----> Enzyme – substrate complex Enzyme – substrate complex -----> Enzyme + Product of enzyme action Factors influence enzyme reactivity Enzyme reactivity depends on the following factors : •

Concentration of enzyme

•

Concentration of the substrate

•

Reaction duration

•

Reaction temperature

•

pH of the systems

•

Presence of activators

•

Presence of inhibitors

Enzyme treatment on jute Commercial enzyme treatment is usually targeted to cotton. However little has been reported on other cellulosic fibres. Cellulase enzyme that acts on all suitable cellulosic substrate, all such fibres, be they cotton, viscose, flax, ramie, jute can be treated. It can also act on cellulose part of mixed fibres and yarns. Bast fibres like linen, ramie and jute ate multiple cellular systems. Multicellular fibre contains gum, lignin, hemicellulose, pectin, etc to keep cell altogether. It is possible that such residual encrusting substances can influence the course of enzymatic action. The use of biomolecules as an activaNCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 37

tor in the bleaching of lignocellulosic fibres has existed for sometime.These activators include glucose, oxidase, ligninase and peroxidases. Pretreatment of jute with a mixture of cellulose and xylanase enzyme for enhancement of bleaching and softening was done. Lignin exerted an inhibitory effect, hemicellulose and micronutrient of jute favoured decomposition as determined by weight loss. Hysteresis behaviour of enzyme treated jute and mesta fibres showed that when these fibre are treated with a combination of cellulose, hemicellulase and pectinase enzymes, the moisture retention capacity is increased which in turn improves the spinnability of these fibres. Direct and logical approach to reduce the inherent coarseness of jute fibres for getting finer and softer yarn were done by treating jute fibre with polysaccharide enzyme prior to spinning.Treatment of jute fibre with EDTA and polysaccharide degrading enzyme has been found an improvement in brightness and fineness of the fibre. The demand for jute fibre as a conventional product or as a diversified product is rising day by day. For application in diversified and value added product like soft luggage, upholstery, curtains, outer garments, etc, the fibre needs some modification in its feel, need for study on dyeability characteristics using a variety of dyes to pro-

Application of Biotechnology in Jute Processing duce coloured products with specific fastness properties. In general, jute fibre has harsh feel which limits its application in textiles to some extent. Bioprocessing that is application of enzyme on jute fibre has found to improve its feel, reduce hairiness and has a positive effect on dyeability. Higher dye uptake means the removal of impurities as well as removal of small amount of jute constituents etc., resulting easy access of dye molecules. Enzymes can be applied on jute by various ways : •

•

• •

At the pretreatment stage i.e., the scouring stage - This process is technically known as bioscouring. It will make the fibre smooth and soft. At the bleaching stage – Significant improvement in whiteness index will occur. Before dyeing stage – It will increase the dye uptake of the fibre. After dyeing stage – It will increase the brightness of the shade.

So, stages of application of enzyme depends on the end use requirement. In jute fibre, different types of enzyme viz., cellulase enzyme, xylanase enzyme, pectinase enzyme, ligninase enzyme either alone or in combination can be applied. Advantages of bio-processing Bio-processing of jute offers several advantages as under : •

Less energy requirement

•

Less water requirement

•

Less chemicals used

•

Mild conditions of treatment.

Conclusions Application of biotechnology in colouration of jute offer relative im-

provement in dye uptake, brightness of shade and wash fastness property. Texture becomes soft and smooth. In case of fabric processing, hairiness in the fabric reduce significantly. As a whole it improves quality of the jute fibre. Literature cited 1. Pan N C, Chattopadhyay S N, Roy A K, Patra K and Khan A, Melliand International, 15 (3), May 2009, 100-101. 2. Vishnu Vardhini and Selvakumar N, The Indian Textile Journal, CXIX (6), March 2009, 32-38. 3. Vigmeswaran C and Keerthivasan, Melliand International, 14 (5), December, 2008, 308-311. 4. Saravanan D, Nalankilli G and Ramachandran T, Man-made Textiles in India, February 2008, 44-48. 5. Shirish Kumar G V N, Journal of

the Textile Association, March – April, 2007, 263-266. 6. Moghe V V and Nabar P S, Colourage, 53(2), February, 2006, 95-96. 7. Vigneswaran C and Jayapriya J , The Journal of the Textile Institute, 101(6), June, 2010, 506-513. 9. Kundu A B, Ghosh B S, Chakravorty S K and Ghosh B L, Textile Research Journal, 61, 1991, 720-723. 10. Ghosh B L and Dutta A K, The Journal of the Textile Institute, 71(2), 1980, 108. 11. Kundu A B, Ghosh B S, Chakravorty S K and Ghosh B L, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 18(2), 1993, 101-103. 12. Chakraborti S K, Ghosh B S, Kudu A B and Ghosh B L, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 16(2), 1991, 154-158.

Key Features of Jute Fibre Jute fibre is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly. It has high tensile strength, low extensibility, and ensures better breathability of fabrics. It is one of the most versatile natural fibres that has been used in raw materials for packaging, textiles, non-textile, construction, and agricultural sectors. Advantages of jute include good insulating and antistatic properties, as well as having low thermal conductivity and a moderate moisture regain. Other advantages of jute include acoustic insulating properties and manufacture with no skin irritations. Jute has the ability to be blended with other fibres, both synthetic and natural, and accepts cellulosic dye classes such as natural, basic, vat, sulfur, reactive, and pigment dyes. As the demand for natural comfort fibres increases, the demand for jute and other natural fibres that can be blended with cotton will increase. To meet this demand, some manufactures in the natural fibre industry plan to modernize processing with the Rieter's Elitex system. The resulting jute/ cotton yarns will produce fabrics with a reduced cost of wet processing treatments. Jute can also be blended with wool. By treating jute with caustic soda, crimp, softness, pliability, and appearance is improved, aiding in its ability to be spun with wool. Liquid ammonia has a similar effect on jute, as well as the added characteristic of improving flame resistance when treated with flameproofing agents. Some noted disadvantages include poor drapability and crease resistance, brittleness, fibre shedding, and yellowing in sunlight. However, preparation of fabrics with castor oil lubricants results in less yellowing and less fabric weight loss, as well as increased dyeing brilliance. Jute has a decreased strength when wet, and also becomes subject to microbial attack in humid climates. Jute can be processed with an enzyme to reduce some of its brittleness and stiffness. Once treated with an enzyme, jute shows an affinity to readily accept natural dyes, which can be made from marigold flower extract. In one attempt to dye jute fabric with this extract, bleached fabric was mordanted with ferrous sulphate, increasing the fabric's dye uptake value. Jute also responds well to reactive dyeing. This process is used for bright and fast coloured value-added diversified products made from jute.

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 38

Logistics as a Competitive Strategy

Analysis of the Clothing Industry in Terms of Logistics Selin Hanife Eryuruk and Fatma Kalaoglu Istanbul Technical University, Department of Textile Engineering, Istanbul, Turkey Murat Baskak Istanbul Technical University, Department of Industrial Engineering, Istanbul, Turkey Abstract The clothing industry is one of the most competitive and highly value-added sectors in the world; however, in recent years the industry has suffered diffcult times. Logistics is a very important strategy to gain competitive advantages like time, cost and customer satisfaction. This paper presents logistics as a strategic solution and investigates important problems as well as necessary solutions according to the needs of the Turkish clothing industry. In the first section of the article, a profile of the clothing industry in Turkey and the world is presented. Then the situation of the logistics sector in Turkey and the world is explained. Finally, an evaluation of logistics as a global strategy in the clothing industry is presented. (This article is reproduced here through the courtesy of Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe) Key words: logistics, Turkish clothing industry, competitive strategy.

A profile of the clothing industry in Turkey and the World The clothing sector is both a labor-intensive and low wage industry, but it is also dynamic and innovative, depending on which market segments one focuses upon.The competitive advantage of clothing firms located in developed countries is related to their abilities to produce designs that capture tastes and preferences in addition to cost effectiveness [1]. The other market segment is the mass production of lower-quality and/or standard products such as t-shirts, uniforms, white underwear etc. Manufacturers for this market segment are largely found in developing countries [2]. According to manufacturing statistics (UNIDO), the average annual growth of added values for the textile sector in relation to the world manufacturing industry was 0.2, and for clothing it was (-)1.8 between 1990 and 2005 (Table 1) [3].Furthermore, the most significant job losses have been experi-

enced by the textile and apparel industry in manufacturing. In G7 countries, there has been a decreasing trend with respect to employment in manufacturing. Table 2 clearly shows that inside the G7 countries the textile and apparel industry had 10.7 million employees in 1970, whereas it decreased to 4 million people in 2001 [4]. Table 3 shows that the proportion of the total export that apparel represents decreased from 4.5% to 3.8% between the years 1990-2006. For the textile industry this value decreased from 4.4% to 2.6%. On the other hand, the export value of the apparel sector, in billions of dollars, increased 2.88 times, and the textile export value increased 2.10 times between 1990 and 2006, which means that as the value of export in billions of dollars increases, the proportion of the total export decreased between 1990 and 2006 [5]. In 2007, world apparel trade was valNCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 39

ued at around 340 billion dollars, and it was estimated that 171 billion dollars of the trade was in knitted products and 199 billion dollars of it in non-knitted apparel products. When knitted apparel exports were considered, in 2006 it was seen that China (36%), Hong Kong (8%), Italy (5%), Turkey (5%), Germany (4%), Bangladesh (4%), India (2%), France (2%) and the Netherlands (2%) were the leaders. Similarly, when non-knitted garment exports were considered, it was seen that China (28%), Hong Kong (8%) and Italy (8%) shared the first three places. Other prominent countries were Turkey (3%), Germany (5%), Bangladesh (3%), India (3%), France (4%) and Belgium (2%) [6]. According to technology groups, the contributions of the sectors within the foreign trade balance are important indications of the position of the countries inside world trade. Balances that are created by the export and import

Analysis of the Clothing Industry inTerms of Logistics values of high technology sectors, medium technology sectors, mediumlow technology sectors and low technology sectors make a positive or negative contribution to the overall foreign trade balances of countries. The industry contributions of countries in the foreign trade of the manufacturing industry according to technology classes are presented in Table 4 as of 2005. According to these data, the U.S. had a trade deficit in the low-tech and medium-tech industries; it was of a more limited extent in medium hightech industries, and the US had a strong surplus in high-tech technology trade [7]. Turkey had a contribution value of (-5) for high technology industries, (-8) for medium-high technology industries, (2) for medium-low technology industries and (+15) for low technology industries.

Table 1 : Manufacturing industry of G7 countries - value added growths 1990-2005. Technology Groups

Sectors

Average annual growtlh, %

Low Technology

Textile

0.2

Low Technology

Apparel

-1,8

Table 2 : World manufacturing industry - employment change. Industries' employment (million people)

1970

1980

1990

2001

Textile apparel industry

10.7

8.3

6.5

4.0

Total

63.0

594

56.4

50.7

Turkey’s textile and clothing industry is one of the most important low-tech sectors in the Turkish economy and has been its “locomotive” since the early 1980’s.

According to the technology groups, the positive and negative contributions of the sectors to foreign trade are shown by the technology group in which these countries have intense production and are more competitive.

Table 5 shows the textile and clothing export as well as import values of Turkey between the years 1980 and 2008. As seen from the table, the textile and clothing export proportions of the total export have been decreasing dramatically since the year 2000 [8].

Turkey had a significant trade deficit in high-tech, mediumhigh-tech and medium-low-tech sectors, as a result of which Turkey is trying to compensate for these high deficits by focusing on production and export in lowtech sectors [7].

When the clothing export values of Turkey were investigated with respect to the countries exported to, it was seen that Germany, England and France were the largest, but the change in export rates had a decreasing trend in general (Table 6).The import values

of Turkey are shown in Table 7. It is clearly seen that Turkey had a significant rise in import values between 2005 and 2008, especially from Bangladesh, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and China, which shows that Turkey has started to import some apparel products from low cost countries or producing them in cheaper countries rather than in Turkey, like clothing companies in developed countries [6]. 51.40% of Turkey’s apparel exports was in knitted garments, 34.80% in woven garments, and 13.80% of apparel exports was in the other garment types in 2008 (Figure 1.a). 35.90% of apparel imports was knitted garments, 57.90% - woven garments, and 6.20% of apparel exports was in other garment types in 2008 (Figure 1.b) [6].

Table 3 : International trade statistics for the sectors under study; Above should be ‘billions of dollars’ and ‘proportion of total export’; Source: International Trade Statistics, 2007, WTO. Sector

1990

1995

2000

2006

Growth rate (1990 to - 2006)

Export, billion dollars

Proportion inside total export, %

Export, billion

Proportion inside total

Export, billion

Proportion inside total

Export, billion

Proportion inside total

Apparel

108

4.5

157.4

4.3

198.9

4.2

311.4

3.8

2.88

Textile

104.3

4.4

149.7

4.1

157.5

3.5

218.6

2.6

2.10

100.0

3641.8

100.0

4697.7

100.0

8256.9

100.0

3.45

Total export 2391.2

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 40

Analysis of the Clothing Industry inTerms of Logistics The main determinant of a change of manufacturing place in manufacturing industries is the manufacturing cost of labour-intensive and low-middle-low technology industry sectors. Production places in the manufacturing industry are often shifted to developing countries that have more appropriate production conditions. First labor-intensive, low value-added and low technology sectors, such as the textile and clothing sector, are shifted to countries that have the advantages of a low-cost labour force. Countries that have left this sector concentrate on more high-technology industries. This concentration is achieved mostly by countries with high technology and innovation capacities [9]. Low and medium-low technology production in lower cost locations has begun to make the price of these products fall. The export of these products has increased in quantity, but the increase in value is limited, as was mentioned before for Turkish clothing export values. Between the years 1990 and 2005, the average annual value added growth decreased by 1.2% (Table 8). Moreover, producer prices and export prices decreased between 1980 and 2005 [9]. Production cost differences between developed and developing countries (for low and medium technology products) are evaluated in Table 9. Which clearly shows that transportation, logistics and stock costs have an important place (10%) in the total production costs [9]. There is a growing demand for timebased logistics management in developed markets where customers are relatively sophisticated and resulting competitive pressure is high. Customer demands for faster delivery, continuous shipment tracking and the electronic transfer of information reflect this desire to minimise time wasted. A competitive advantage built on a well-

Table 4 : Industry contributions based on the technology classes; Source: Science and Engineering Indicators 2008, Mational Science Board, USA. Countries

High-tech Technology Industries

Medium-High Technology Industries

Medium-Low Technology Industries

Low Tech. Inds.

G-7 Countries U.S.A.

+5.5

+1.5

-6.0

-1.0

Japan

+1.0

+14.0

-1.0

-14.0

Germany

+3.0

+7.0

0.0

+4.0

England

+3.5

+1.0

+0.5

-5.0

France

+0.5

+3.0

-1.0

-2.5

Italy

-4.0

0.0

+1.0

+3.0

Canada

-3.0

+2.0

-3.0

+4.0

-4.0

+2.0

+0.5

+1.5

EU Countries Spain

the Netherlands -0.5

+2.0

-0.5

-1.0

Belgium

0.0

-1.5

+0.5

+1.0

Austria

-1.0

+3.0

0.0

-2.0

Denmark

+1.0

+3.0

-3.0

-1.0

Sweden

+0.5

+1.0

-1.0

-0.5

Ireland

+6,5

+1.0

-4.0

-3.5

Finland

0.0

+1.5

-7.0

+5.5

Portugal

-3.0

-1.0

-2.0

+6.0

Greece

-2.5

+1.0

-4.5

+6.0

Other Industrialized Countries South Korea

+3.5

+0.5

-1.0

-3.0

Switzerland

+7.5

+10.

-3.0

-5.5

Australia

-6.5

-8.5

+8.5

+6.5

Norway

-3.0

-1.5

+8.0

-3.5

Industrializing Countries Mexico

+2.5

+3.5

-5.0

-1.0

Hungary

+3.0

+1.0

-4.0

0.0

Slovakia

-4.5

+2.0

+2.5

0.0

Poland

-4.0

-3.0

+1.0

+6.0

Czech Republic -2.5

+3.5

+0.5

-1.5

Turkey

-8.0

-2.0

+15.0

-5.0

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 41

Analysis of the Clothing Industry inTerms of Logistics Table 6 : Apparel export values of Turkey for each country.

Table 7. Apparel import values of Turkey for each country.

planned and successfully executed logistics strategy can be sustainable because it is very difficult for a competitor to copy [10]. Evaluation of the logistics sector in Turkey and the world The world market size of logistics is estimated to be 3 trillion dollars, equivalent to 10% of the Gross Na-

tional Product value of the U.S. The United States and the EU constitute more than 50% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s logistics market in relation to their world trade in goods. In Asia, China has a developing trend in the logistics market [11]. Turkey is a Gateway from/to Europe, Central Asia, the Black Sea, the eastern Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf. Turkey has one of the most important NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 42

positions with respect to logistics i.e. between Europe and Middle East, as result of which its multi-mode connection facilities: Seaports/Free Zones/ Railways/Airports and Truck formation (Figures 2 and 3) are also of great importance. Among the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 10 big emerging markets, Turkey has growing Transport and Logistics, Automotive, Textiles and

Analysis of the Clothing Industry inTerms of Logistics Retailing industries, with 60% of the population under the age of 30 [12]. In Turkey, logistics has an important place in the development of the industry; Turkey has nearly 50.000 foreign trade companies. Approximately 5.000 of these companies have a foreign trade volume of over one million USD. There are approximately 2.000 customs clearance companies, 1200 international road transport companies, 1000 international maritime companies, 250 freight-forwarders and about 250 bonded warehouses that provide logistics services. Transportation warehouse operators, transportation job agents, distributors, cargo and courier companies can also be included in this sector [13]. Moreover, Figure 4 shows the total export and import values of Turkey. Turkey has an increasing tendency in the total foreign trade, which further highlights the importance of the logistics sector. [12]. Turkey’s foreign trade represented nearly 35 billion dollars at the end of 2007. Turkey’s foreign trade as per transport modalities in percent is shown in Table 10.

Figure 1 : Turkey’s exports (a) and imports (b) as basic product groups in 2008. Furthermore, depending on the sector, between 4% and 20% of the sale price of a product is logistics costs, which makes the importance of the sector for Turkey’s economy clear [14]. Turkey generally uses sea (about 50%) and road transport (about 35%) for foreign trade. Airway transport (about 10%) is rarely used because of high transportation costs. Although in the world the use of rail freight transport has an important place in transportation, Turkey uses railways for about 1% of its foreign trade [15].

The importance of logistics as a global strategy in the clothing industry As global firms in distant places find ways of embedding themselves within larger webs of production and distribution, the conditions surrounding these objectives of upgrading also change. The whole system of internationally fragmented production and distribution increases economic activity almost everywhere and forces firms to respond in the form of technological change, industrial reorganisation and regional relocation [16].

Table 8 : Effects of change in manufacturing sites.

Figure 2 : International road connections of Turkey.

Figure 3 : Seaports of Turkey.

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 43

Analysis of the Clothing Industry inTerms of Logistics Schematically, three main types of clothing enterprise can be identified in Turkey: The first comprises principal enterprises that design and market clothing; such enterprises employ relatively few technical staff and achieve a high turnover per person employed, but they do constitute a small segment in the sector. The second comprises manufacturers which are usually small and highly specialised; such types of companies have a significant majority in the Turkish clothing industry.The third is made up of vertically-integrated own account enterprises that design, make and sell clothing, perhaps through their own distribution networks [17]. Turkish clothing companies have, first and foremost, placed great emphasis on the development of new brands that command higher prices relative to costs or on those that can secure a larger market share in order to preserve their place in global markets. Moreover, some big companies within the global clothing market, gain profit from a combination of designing, branding, marketing, retailing, and financial services rather than from manufacturing alone. In addition, some companies transfer their production facilities to low wage areas to keep costs down. Activities can also be relocated to seek out new cheaper sources of materials and components. For the firms placed inside these dense networks, responsibilities have gone beyond handling logistics activities and include the management of a complex business environment that requires sophisticated forms of coordination. Therefore, a successful combination of highly sophisticated logistics structures has become a requirement for success. Logistics, in its most basic definition, is the efficient flow and storage of goods from their point of origin to the point of consumption. It is the part of the supply chain process that plans, implements and controls the flow of

Table 9 : Production cost differences between developed and developing countries (for low and medium technology products); Source: Capturing Global Advantage, BCG 2007. Cost Elements

Unit

Total cost in developed country

100

Labor cost contribution

-20 -25

Amortization contribution

-5 -10

Cheap raw material of intermediate goods contribution

-10 -15

Scale contribution

-0 -5

Special incentives

-0 -5

Manufacturing cost in developing country

Transportation, logistics and stock costs

+10

Additional administration costs

Taxes

Total cost in developing country

Figure 4 : Turkeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s total exports and import. Table 10 : Foreign trade of Turkey as per transport modalities (import + export, %); Source : TĂ&#x153;IK. Year

Sea transport

Railway transport

Road transport

Airway transport

Others

1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

48.8 47.6 46.4 44.9 46.4 47.4 49.3 48.1 49.0 50.4 53.8 55.3 50.4 54.2

0.8 0.8 0.6 0.5 0.7 0.4 0.6 0.8 0.9 1.1 1.4 1.4 1.1 1.2

39.8 39.5 41.4 44.0 41.8 35.4 36.8 38.6 37.7 36.3 31.8 30.4 36.3 32.0

7.7 9.4 9.8 9.4 9.7 9.6 10.3 10.0 10.0 10.1 9.0 8.3 10.1 8.2

2.9 2.7 1.8 1.2 1.4 7.2 3.0 2.5 2.4 2.2 4.1 4.7 2.2 4.3

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 44

Analysis of the Clothing Industry inTerms of Logistics

Figure 5 : Supply chain in the textile and clothing sector [19]. goods. It can also be seen as the management of inventory, at rest or in motion. The word logistics was first used in the military to describe the process of supplying a war zone with troops, supplies and equipment. The term is now used more commonly in the field of business. Logistics is also defined as a business planning framework for the management of material, service, information and capital flows. It includes the increasingly complex information, communication and control systems required in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s business environment [18]. The textile and clothing sectors can be seen as a supply chain consisting of a number of discrete activities. Increasingly the supply chain from the sourcing of raw materials via design and production to distribution and marketing is being organised as an integrated production network.The supply chain in the textile and clothing sector is illustrated by Figure 5. The dotted lines represent the flow of information, while the solid ones represent the flow of goods. The direction of the arrows indicates a demand-pull-driven system. The information flow starts with the customer and forms the basis of what is being produced and when. In many cases information flows directly from

the retailers to the textile plants. The textile sector produces for the clothing sector and for household use. At each link in the production chain to the left of the distribution centre in Figure 5, there are usually several companies. In order to make goods, information and payments flow smoothly, a number of logistics and business services are needed. Depending on the size and development of the host economy, such services are provided by the lead firm in the supply chain or independent service providers in the more advanced countries [19]. Turkey possesses a good logistical advantage over other competitors, such as India, China and Pakistan, owing to its short distance from Europe. Moreover, Turkey has other important strengths in the logistics sector like economic growth, productivity growth, being surrounded by the sea on three sides, and a developed road transport network with a significant fleet, but above all it is a low cost country compared to Europe. On the other hand Turkey has some weaknesses like the lack of a technological infrastructure, a shortage of qualified personnel, the lack of a rail and sea transportation infrastructure, the lack of combined transport, and an aged veNCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 45

hicle fleet. Uncertainty and fluctuations in the economy is an important threat for Turkey. The entry of foreign firms to the sector, the dynamic structure and development of the sector, a young and dynamic population, a suitable geographic infrastructure for harbour construction, as well as the Black Sea, Balkan and Arab markets are some of the advantages Turkey has [13]. The determination of the strengths and weaknesses of the sector, the elimination of infrastructure deficiencies, the creation of effective information sources for sustainable competition, and the determination of logistics strategies and policies providing solutions to the problems are necessary for the competition of Turkish logistics companies [20].The use of rail freight transport must also be developed for the logistics success of Turkey. Moreover, as a logistics strategy, building logistics centers similar to those in Europe brings with it significant advantages like logistics chain optimisation, truck usage optimiation, warehouse usage optimisation, manpower usage optimisation, a decline in total transportation costs, a drop in total industrial costs, a decline in labour costs and an increase in the total turnover of transport operators [21].

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011

Table 5 : Turkish Textile&Clothing export values between 1980-2008; Source: Undersecretariat of the Prime Ministry for Foreign Trade.

Analysis of the Clothing Industry in Terms of Logistics

Analysis of the Clothing Industry inTerms of Logistics In order to convert their current situation into a competitive advantage, global companies are searching for ways of spreading their activities among nations in order to serve the world market, which obliges them to have the ability to coordinate those dispersed activities [10].Today, big clothing companies in Turkey have started to use logistics as a globalisation strategy and outsource their some operations such as sourcing, inbound logistics, and manufacturing, which can be conducted anywhere. Outbound logistics, after-sales service and marketing are usually tied to the buyer’s location. Some clothing manufacturing facilities (after assembly and before distiribution) such as stock and inventory management, first control, repairs, stain removal, quality control, repressing, counting, bar-coding, labeling, packaging, the placement of accessories, manuals and warranty documents, product seperation and classification, order management and creating sets of products are provided by leading firms in the logistics sector or by independent service providers. As a result clothing companies gain important advantages like time and reducing costs, and consequently they can focus on their strategic activities more professionally. Conclusions Turkey’s textile and clothing industry is one of the most important sectors in the Turkish economy and has been its “locomotive” since the early 1980’s. To compete in the global market, the Turkish textile and clothing industry must engage in a permanent process of restructuring that involves the adoption of new technologies and new modes of work organisation to increase productivity, reduce costs and keep ahead of producers in low wage areas. Inside this type of production and distribution systems, there is pressure to improve logistics methods such as developing new and more effective ways of managing material and infor-

mation flows, as a result of which there will be a decrease in distribution and stock management costs. Turkey possesses a good logistics advantage compared to its other competitors, such as India, China and Pakistan, owing to its short distance from Europe. Moreover, Turkey has an important place in the world textile and clothing sector. On the other hand, labour-intensive, low valueadded and low technology sectors, like the textile and clothing sector, are often shifted to countries that have the advantage of a low-cost labour force. Logistics is becoming an increasingly important strategy for clothing companies. The findings of this study make a useful contribution to the industry as well as academia in order that the current situation of the clothing industry in Turkey and the world, as well as the situation of the logistics sector in Turkey and the world be analysed. Moreover, this article will attract attention to the idea of logistics as a globalisation strategy for the clothing industry, as well as to important problems and variables for the continuing development of the Turkish clothing industry. In the second part of this study, a design of a logistics center for the Turkish clothing industry will be presented. In the meantime, an expert survey will be conducted in the Turkish clothing industry, and data will be collected from the top-level management teams of each of the clothing firms, who are liable to provide answers for the questionnaire.The functions, sizes and important criteria to establish a logistics center for the Turkish Clothing Industry will be presented. References 1.

Navaretti G. B., Falzoni A., Turrini A.; Journal of International Trade and Economic Development, Vol. 10 (2001), pp. 451-70.

Gereffi G.; Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, Vol. 2, (2001), pp. 1-5.

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 47

Manufacturing Statistics, UNIDO INDSTAT3 2006, Industrial Statistics Database.

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Sevim,Ümit, “Hazir giyim 2009”, T.C. Basbakanlik Dis Ticaret Müstesarligi Ihracati Gelistirme Etüd Merkezi, (2009).

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ITKIB (Representation of Turkish Textile and Ready-made Garment Expor ters Association), “Tekstil Sektörünün Ihracat Performansi Yillik Degerlendirme 2008”, ITKIB Genel Sekreterligi, AR&GE ve Mevzuat Subesi, January, (2009).

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10. Gourdin K. N.; “Global Logistics Management - A Competitive Advantage for the 21st Century”, Blackwell Publishing, (2006), p. 8. 11. www.igeme.org.tr/tur/pratik, (Oct. '09). 12. http://www.utikad.org.tr/srapor.asp, Türkiye Uluslararsi Tasimacilik ve Lojistik, (2008). 13. (http://www.utikad.org.tr/srapor.asp, TSKB Lojistik Sektör Raporu, (2008). 14. Tanyas M.; Lojistik ders notlari, (2008). 15. http://www.roder.org.tr/TR/STATS/ sta_other.asp, Dis Ticarette Tasima Modlari, (2009). 16. Essletzbichler J., Rigby D. L.; Environment and Planning, A 33, (2001), pp.1385-1410. 17. Tokatli N.; Environment and Planning A, Vol 35 (2003), pp. 1877-1894. 18. http://www.wisegeek.com/whatislogistics.htm, October, (2009). 19. Abernathy F. H., Dunlop J. T., Hammond J. H.. Weil D.; “Lean Retailing and the Transformation of Manufacturing – Lessons from the Textile and Apparel Industries”, Oxford: Oxford University Press, (1999). 20. h t t p : / / w w w . t c d d . g o v. t r / y u k / yukindex.htm, October, (2009). 21. www.unece.org, (2008).

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13. Ronald Bogaards Managing Director A.T. Sports & Fashion Wear Ltd. Plot #28 (5th Floor, A Block) Road #9, Block #G Banani, Dhaka NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 48

15. Kabir Uddin Ahmed (Proprietor) Aartistic International 43, Johnson Road, Dhaka Tel : 7173128 Fax : 7173128 Email: aartisticintl@yahoo.com 16. S.M. Saad Chief Executive Officer Aaztex House #42, Road # 2/A Dhanmondi, Dhaka Tel : 01552100464, 8621746 Fax : 8622409 Email : saad@aaztex.com 17. Mohammad Abdullahil Alim Proprietor ABC International House # 292 (Ground floor), Road # 19/B, New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel : 9898973, 01713005700 18. Md. Sbdullah Sarder Managing Director Abdullah Sweater Ltd. 119, Ashkona Medial Road Uttara, Dhaka Tel : 8923163 Fax : 8924390 Email: asltd@citechco.net 19. Didarul Alam (Managing Director) Abid Export Ltd. House #84, New Airport Road Banani, Dhaka Tel: 8821975, 01552152091 Fax : 9892064 Email: abidexport@gmail.com 20. Alam Korsued (Proprietor) ABL 243/1, New Circular Road

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Moghbazar, Dhaka Tel: 9331362 Fax : 8313651 Email : abl@bttb-net.bd 21. Md. Khorshed Alam (Proprietor) ABL â&#x20AC;&#x2122;42, Bamnartak Kamarpara Block-E, Ward - 6, Road #2 Turag, Dhaka Tel: 8960937, 01741163983 Fax : Email: rosse_7@yahoo.com 22. Maj. S.M. Saiful Islam (Retd.) Proprietor Abloom Limited Hosue #155 (3rd Floor) Lane # 1, East DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 8840224, 01713003949 Fax : 8840224 Email: verso10@gmail.com 23. Shabbir Ahmed Siddiquee Chief Executive (Proprietor) Adelia International Suit # 1201 (11th Floor) 27, Dilkusha C/A Dilkusha, Dhaka Tel : 9563158, 7171479, 0191354746 Fax : 7171479 Email : adelia@bttb.net.bd 24. Md. Moinul Hassan (Partner) Adezahs Corporation 913, Agrabad C/A (Oppsite Jomuna Bhaban) Agrabad, Chittagong Tel: 716372 Fax : 710412 Email: adezahs@spnetctg.com 25. Shariful Islam (Proprietor) Adroit Fashions 38, Shahajalal Avenue, Sector 04 Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 01913321676, 8916824 Fax : 8916824 Email: sharif@adroitfashions.com 26. Md. Salauddin (Proprietor) Adroit Linkers House # 134 (4th Floor) Road # 1 (West), Baridhara DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel : 8837327-8, 01711540546 Fax : 8833859 Email : salauddin@adroitbd.com 27. Md. Nuruddin (Managing Director)

Afrin Fabrics Ltd. Flat # F (3rd Floor), House # 412 Lane #29, New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 9887111, 8815033 Fax: 8826546 Email: afrin@citechco.net 28. Md. Azad Rahman (Proprietor) AHL Export International Ka-33, South Mohakhali Gulshan, Dhaka Tel : 8835529, 01713034357 Fax : 9861480 Email: ahlexport@gmail.com 29. Niloy Chakma (Managing Director) Ahlam Fashion Munjub Building (Ground Floor) No #4, Rupashi Houseing Society, TTC Road, Nasirabad, Chittagong Tel:031-2580847 Fax : 312580847 Email : ahlamfashion@gmail.com

34. Shadath Md. Faisal (Proprietor) Alana Strategic Business Unit House #373, Road #28 New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 8815178, 0171591599 Fax : 8818603 Email: alanabu2@worldnetbd.net 35. Shamsul Islam (Proprietor) Al-BarakaTrading House #472, Road #8 Baridhara, DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 9886349 Email : albaraka@sparkbd.com 36.Tarun Sethi Resident Sales Executive Aldwick Textile Exports Limited House # 70/E, Road #17 Banani, Dhaka Tel: 9881418, 8810510 Fax : 8828143 Email: aldwick@yuefung.net

30. Md. Monjurul Islam Managing Director Ahnaf Apparels Ltd. House #202/D (2nd Floor) Road # 6, Mohammadi Housing Ltd. Mohammadpur, Dhaka Tel : 9891251, 9893108, 0171-523835 Fax : 9891629 Email: asheeq-islam@domainex.com

37. Mosharaf Hossain Managing Director Alex Customer Service Ltd. Lane# 5, House #321/1 Baridhara, D.O.H.S Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 9889214 Fax : 9887357 Email: mosharof@alexbang.com

31. Nurul Amin (Managing Director) AK Trade Co (Pvt.) Ltd. Road #29, House #394 New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 9889571, 9889886 Fax : 9884058

38. Md. Nasir Uddin Khan (CEO) Alfatex Road # 12, House #541/5 Unit # 5-B, Baridhara DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 8849079 Fax : 8849081 Email : nasir@alfatex.com

32. Mohammad Salauddin Managing Director Al Aseel Fashions (Pvt.) Ltd. Suite # 7 & 8 (8th Floor), Eastern Trade Center 56, Purana Paltan Lane, Inner Circular, VIP Road Purana Paltan, Dhaka Tel: 9361385, 01817-119588 Email : aseel.fashion@yahoo.com 33. Sameer Sood (Managing Director) Alana Startegic Sourcing Ltd. H # B/141, L # 22 New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 8811319, 01714102648 Email: sameer@alanagroup.com.bd NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 49

39. AHN Byung So Managing Director Alliance Great Britain Limited House #212, Road #02 DOHS Baridhara Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 9889905 Fax : 9886130 Email: alliance@bdcom.com 40. R.N. Karmaker (Proprietor) Alpine Fashions International 95/KA Pisciculture, HS Block -KA (Ground Floor) Shamoli, Dhaka Tel : 8121206, 9139996, 011029958 Fax : 8116369 Email: contact@alphine-fashion.com

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES 41. Md. Abdus Sabur Managing Director Alternative Fashions Ltd. Suite-312, RM Center (3rd Floor) 101 Gulshan Avenue Gulshan, Dhaka Tel: 9898677, 01715150393 Fax : 9898718. Email : sabur@alternative-fashions.com 42. Md. Aminul Islam (Proprietor) Amin Enterprise Tengra (Near ASA Office), Plot # 543, P.O. Sarulia, Demra, Dhaka Tel: 7400568, 0171033938 Fax : 7400568 Email: amin@bijoy.net 43. Md. Abdul Baset (Millal) Proprietor Amitex Fashions 1481/A Khilgaon, Dhaka Tel: 9560734 Fax : 8315916 Email: mabaset27@hotmail.com 44. Ariful Islam (Proprietor) Am ranâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Attire House # 15/F, Road # 7 Banani, Dhaka Tel: 8827163, 0171540889 Fax : 9886153 Email : islama@agni.com 45. Ms. Jarzana Islam (Proprietor) AMS Fahion House Road - 14A# 374 APT CI Dhanmondi, Dhaka Tel : 8157053, 8157007, 9125191 Fax : 8157906, 8118206. Email: farzin_amsfashion@spaninn.com 46. Aninda Mukharji Country Manager Anand Fashions Ltd. House #23, Road #28 Block K Banani, Dhaka Tel : 8861860, 9886079, 9893478 Fax : 8855198 Email: info@afldac.com 47. Shahidul Haque Mukul (Director) Ananya Apparels Ltd. House # 3, Avenue-1 Block-D, Section-11 Mirpur, Dhaka Tel: 8017716-7 Fax : 8015526 Email : ananya@citechco.net

48. Md. Abdul Khaleque Managing Director Anik Fashion Ltd. House # 52, Road Garibe Newaz Avenue Sector # 13 Uttara, Dhaka Tel : 8913477, 8923993, 01711528388 Fax : 8920028 Email: pacific-impex@bdcom.com 49. Pijush Kanti Barua Managing Partner Anima Collection Orient Tower (3rd Floor) 1 K.B., Aman Ali Road, Laldighi North, Anderkilla, Chittagong Tel : 88031-2853683, 01715531497 Fax : 031-2853696 Email: anima7@bdonline-ctg.com 50. Mohammad Rakibur Rahman Director Anmole Sourcing Ltd. House # B/181 (3rd Floor) Road # 23, New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 8752981 Fax : 8752981 Email : sourcing@worldnetbd.net 51. Amiruddin Ahmed Managing Director Anwara Apparels International House # 491 (Ground Floor) Road # 32, New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel : 8835166, 8835366, 01713036565 Fax : 9861271, 9883466 Email: dbtrading@dhaka.net 52. Aminul Islam (Proprietor) Apparel House House # 441 (Ground Floor) Road #30, New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel : 8812457, 9899835, 018-237148 Fax : 8827116 Email: apparel@gnbd.net 53. Rafiqur Rahman (Chairman) Apparel Solution Links & Logistics Ltd. Sheba House (6th Floor) Plot # 34, Road # 46 Gulshan-2, Dhaka Tel: 8855890, 01713-100800 Fax : 9883956 Email : sheikh_hassanJaki@asllogistics.net 54.Delwar Hossain (Managing Partner) NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 50

Apparel Trade International Road # 30, House # 420 (Ground Floor) New DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 8855342, 9862454 Email: apptrade@yahoo.com 55. Mynuddin Ahmed (Proprietor) Apparels Buying Company Planners Tower 13/A Sonargaon Road (3rd Floor) Bangla Motor, Dhaka Tel: 8651789, 8650776 Fax : 9666322 56. S.M. Jahangir Alam (Proprietor) APT International Yakub Plaza (1st Floor) IPC Road, Chittagong Tel : 01819313718, 031-2526649-50 Fax : 2521742 Email : aptgroup@bbts.net 57. Syed Rezaul Hossain Kazi (Reza) Managing Director Aptech Designs Ltd. Krishnachura, Apartment # 1/D House #40, Road # 21, Block B Banani, Dhaka Tel:8837691-93 Fax : 8851116 Email: reza@aptechdesignsltd.com 58. Md. Shamsul Alam (Proprietor) Arco Tex Wear 56, Purana Paltan (6th Floor) Purana Paltan, Dhaka Tel: 9567510, 9562511 Fax : 9560194 Email: arco@citechco.net 59. Imran Siddique Toffee (Proprietor) Aries Corporation House # 15, Road #5, Block-F Banani, Dhaka Tel: 8824532, 01711535051 Fax : 8816339 Email : info@ariescorporation.com 60. Md. Motaleb Hossain Managing Director Arion Impex Ltd. City Heart 67, Naya Paltan (10th Floor), Room #7 Naya Paltan, Dhaka Tel:8313418 Fax : 9339941 Email: arion@gononet.com 61. Mohammad Abid Hossain Managing Director Arn Global Concept Limited

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES A-6, Bashati Horizon (6th Floor), House # 21, Road #17, Banani C/A Banani, Dhaka Tel: 8816729, 019381847 Fax : 8827056 Email: arn@arnglobal.com

68. Md. Ai-Masum Managing Director Atima Fashions Ltd. 88/C, Kadamtala Bashabo, Dhaka Tel: 8814326 Fax : 9883811 Email : atima@bdmail.net

62. Amanat Ullah Chowdhury Proprietor Ashri Textile House #24, Road # 12, Sector 14 Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 8915426 Fax : 8953736 Email : ashritex@rksysbd.com

69. Al Masum Howlader Managing Director Atima Knitwear Ltd. House #B-108 (1st Floor) Road #8, Mohakhali DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 8814326 Fax : 9883811 Email: atimamrmasum@gnbd.net

63. Ravin Fathesh Shah General Manager Asia Excel Trading Ltd. 1st Floor, House #461 Lane #8 (East Side), DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel : 8849056-7, 01713013865 Fax : 8849057 Email: ravin@indochinebd.com

70. Shahidul Alam (Proprietor) Atlanta Int’l House #42/A (1st Floor) Road # 08, Cantonment R/A Cantonment, Dhaka Tel: 8811031 Fax : 8811031 Email: atlint@aitlbd.net

64. Md. Salimullah Miyan Managing Director Astha Products 836/863 (4th Floor) D.T. Road, Dhanialapara Dewanhat, Chittagong Tel: 4482610 Email: saph@techno-bd.net 65. Md. Tofazzal Hossain Moll ah Managing Partner AT Sweater Fashion & Design House # 9/4, Avenue-5 Block-B, Section-6, Mirpur, Dhaka Tel: 9008486 Fax : 8010076 Email : at@bdcom.com 66. Md. Jabbar (Managing Director) Atelier Sourcing Ltd. House # 50, Road # 3 Gulshan, Dhaka Tel: 8817735 Fax : 8817737 Email: info@atelier-sourcing.com 67. Mohammed Nakeem Uddin Nishad Director Atex Associates Ltd. Faruk Chamber (6th Floor) 1403, Sk. Mujib Road Agrabad, Chittagong Tel: 717731, 01730042902 Fax : 727809 Email: atex@techno-bd.net

71. M.K. Zaman (Chief Executive) Atlantic Resources Ltd. Hosue # 22 (3rd Floor) Rabindra Sharani, Road, Sector 7 Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 8933853 Fax : 8933853 Email : info@arlbd.com 72. Ahsan Elahi Chief Executive Officer Atta and Sattar Brother’s 46, Siddeshwari Road Eastern Flower, Flat # 2/1404 Siddeswari, Dhaka Tel: 8360335 Fax : 9339588 Email: atta@1postbox.com 73. Shahidur Rahman (Proprietor) Attire International Flat-7/A, Russel Lodge 32/4A, Shahjahan Road Mohammadpur, Dhaka Tel : 9143852, 0171592280 Fax : 9143852 Email: s-ent@dhaka.agni.com 74. Humayun Kabir Ahmed (Chairman) Authentex Fashions Limited House # 351 (3rd Floor) Road # 5, Baridhara DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel : 01817035758, 01819258086 Email : info@authentexbd.com NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 51

75. Shaik Mohammad Alam (Pintu) Proprietor Authentic Fashion International Road # 29, Hosue # 396 (4th Floor), New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel : 8711815, 01819280548 Fax: 8711815 Email: info@authentic-fashion.com 76. Oliur Rahman (Managing Director) Autumn & Winter Collection Ltd. House #141, (1st Floor) Road # 1, DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel : 9892973 Fax : 8820377 Email: awcl@bdonline.com 77. Abedur Rashid Khan (Proprietor) Avanti International Room # 1107 (11th Fl.) Senakalyan 195, Motijheel C/A, Motijheel, Dhaka Tel: 9564914 Fax : 9564915 Email : avanti@bol-online.com 78. Nasirul Islam Khan (Chairman) Awss (BD) Limited 97/A, Green Road Framgate, Dhaka Tel: 9129637 Fax : 9129637 Email : nikawss@yahoo.com 79. Nasirul Islam Khan (N.I.Khan) Managing Director Awss Fashions Ltd. 97/A, Green Road (2nd Floor) Framgate, Dhaka Tel : 8154508 Fax : 8154508 Email: nikawss@yahoo.com 80. Ariful Huq (President) Axim Bangladesh Road # 37, House # 39 Suite # H (4th Floor) Gulshan, Dhaka Tel:9888681, 9890882 Fax : 8810372 Email : axim@aximonline.net 81. Ziaul Amin (Managing Director) AZ Fashion Wear Ltd. House #19, Road # 13/C Block-E Banani, Dhaka Tel:8811369, 9886081, 9887090 Fax : 9881821 Email: ziaul@citechco.net 82. Md. Masudul Alam (Proprietor) Azreen Collection House #307, Road #21, DOHS

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel : 9887407, 9887408 Fax : 9885776 Email: mfashion@dhaka.agni.com 83. M.A. Alam (Proprietor) B.D. Fashions 208, Central Bashabo, Shabujbagh Shabujbagh, Dhaka Tel : 8101842 Fax : 8102305 Email : bdf@bdlink.com 84. Abul Bashar (Proprietor) B.M. International 14, Mowshire Uttara, Dhaka Tel : 8915097 Fax : 8916935 Email: bmintl@bol-online.com 85. Ahmedur Rahman Managing Partner Babooi 50/1, South Bashabo Bashabo, Dhaka Tel: 8920759 Fax : 7291233 Email: babooi@bdonline.com 86. Shomon Robie (Managing Director) Babui Limited 134, Lane-1 (West) DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 8849669, 01713002110 Fax : 8840399 Email : info@babui.net 87. Pascal Le Barbier Lacouture Managing Director Backstage Readywear Ltd. House # 39, Road # 37 Apt 2/D Gulshan, Dhaka Tel: 8817759 Fax : 8811890 88. Monzurul Islam Managing Director Bail a Fashion Ltd. House # 63 (Ground fl), Road # 11 Sector # 13, Uttara Model Town Uttara, Dhaka Tel : 8912403, 8923512, 0171207449 Fax : 8923512 Email: baila@sparkbd.net 89. M. Sirajul Islam (Chairman) Bakul Fashions Ltd. Nirala Bhaban (2nd Floor) 9/A, Toy en bee Circular Road Motijheel, Dhaka Tel : 9563066-67 Fax : 9561763 Email : amita94@bdcom.com

90. A.S.M. Shaflquzzaman (Proprietor) Bangladesh Clothing 3/4, South Begun Bari (5th Floor) Tejgaon, Dhaka Tel:011875528 Fax : 8317023 Email: bcl@aitlbd.net 91. Mohd. Abid Hossain Belal Proprietor Basic Fashion House #155, Lane #01 DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 9880033 Fax : 8816589 Email: basic@bol-online.com 92. Md. Moniruzzaman Monir Managing Director Bay “ N” Wind Sourcing Ltd. No 1, Sekandar Market Ashkona Dakhin Khan, Dhaka Tel: 8932817, 01915504600 Fax : 8932817 Email : info@baynwind.com 93. M.I. Siddique (Selim Mahbub) Chairman Bay Cotton Excel Knit Ltd. Chanmari Fatullah, Narayanganj Tel: 9750309 Fax : 9751873 Email: baycreations@agnionline.com 94. Hafizur Rahman Managing Partner BD Fashion Wear House # 355 (Ground Floor) Road # 5, Baridhara DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 9349612 Email: bdfashion@mailzoo.com 95. Syed ON Ahmed (Proprietor) BDG Textilien BD 263, Bara Moghbazar (3rd Floor) Moghbazar, Dhaka Tel: 9358476, 01710921287 Fax : 9358416 Email : bdg.oli@gmail.com 96. Md.Tariqur Rahman Chowdhury Proprietor BDTTex Wear 280, Dhania, P.O. Dhania Demra, Dhaka Tel: 7514683 Fax : 7514683 Email: tareq0529@dhaka.net 97. Md. Abu I Kashem (Proprietor) NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 52

BD-Tex Sourcing 36-3A, South Jatrabari Demra, Dhaka Tel: 7541178, 7548539 Fax : 7546452 Email: bdtx@dhaka.net 98. Sorder M. Nur-Uz-Zaman Managing Director Beitex International House# 10, Road# 31, Sector# 07 Uttra Model Town, Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 8017549 Fax : 8016590 Email : beitex@bdonline.com 99. Rezaul Karim (Managing Director) Belleamie Collections Ltd. House # 470, Road # 31 New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel : 9891732, 9892020, 0171560028 Fax : 9880012 Email: a2zbd@agni.com 100. Pritam Chowdhury Chief Executive Officer BenExclusive IFCO Complex (4th Floor) 1147/A CDA Avenue, Chittagong Tel : 01713194301, 031-2552472 Email: pritam@benexclusive.com 101. Kh. Md. Rumi Managing Director Bengal Bay Company (Pvt.) Ltd. House #217 (Ground Floor) Road # 14, Lake Road New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 9860858 Fax : 9860858 Email: bengalbay@gnbd.net 102. Mohd. Nur Nabi (Proprietor) Bengal Clothing Corporation House #61/B, Road #21 CDA R/A Agrabad, Chittagong Tel: 031-727495, 01711199579 Fax : 031-723238 Email: bengales@yahoo.com 103. Kazi M.A. Hakim Managing Director Bengal Exports Syndicate Limited Suvastu Tower Level-11/B, 69/1, Green Road Panthapath, Dhaka Tel : 8610818, 8629262, 01711567527 Fax : 8619843 Email: benex9@bdcom.net 104. Md. Kamal Hossain (Proprietor) Benson Fashion Wear

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES 2/3, Sukarabad, Navana Venus Apt # I-2 Dhanmondi, Dhaka Tel : 9880152, 8817125, 01713004321 Fax : 8817125 Email : info@bensonfashion.com 105. Ben no Valentin Fischer Managing Director Bent ex International BD Ltd. House #13, Road #10 Sector # 6, Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 8922375 Fax : 8922375 Email: info@bentexbd.com 106. Mohammad Asheque Elahe Proprietor Best Buy International Knit Wears House # 8/A, Road # 14 (New) 29 (Old) 1st Floor, Dhanmondi, Dhaka Tel: 9125191, 9120982 Fax : 8118206 Email: best_buy@bijoy.net 107. Salma Musa (Proprietor) Best Sellers IntI House #56/A Road # 3/A Dhanmondi, Dhaka Tel: 8610651, 9661207 Fax : 8613208 Email : bondnk@global-bd.net 108. Md. Raziul Hassan Managing Director BHML Fashions Ltd. 849/3, Shewrapara Flat-A4 (6th Floor) Mirpur, Dhaka Tel:8011115 Email: bhmlltd@bdonline.com 109. Jalal Uddin Ishaque (Proprietor) Bismillah Sourcing No. 1, Sekander Market 1st Floor Dakhkhin Khan, Dhaka Tel: 8952496, 01715063215 Fax : 8952496 Email: jaiai@bismillah-sourcing.com 110. Md. Rashed Musharraf Hossen Managing Partner Black Pearl House #5, Road # 3/E Sector 9, Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 017141182181, 8920254 Fax: Email : bpearlbd@gmail.com 111. Jahangir Alam Bhuiyan Managing Director Blagio USA United Ltd.

89, National Zoo Road, Mirpur-2 Mirpur, Dhaka Tel: 9010667, 011810571 Fax : 8018239 Email: blagiousa2000@yahoo.com 112. Md. Abu I Kashem Managing Director Blooming Dell Ltd. 93/B, Road # 4 Block # F Banani, Dhaka Tel: 9891020 Fax : 9890854 Email: blooming@connectbd.com 113. Ziauddin Md. Jahangir (Proprietor) BLP Buying International Rahman Tower, No 1 Rail Gate Sholashahar, Muradpur, Chittagong Tel: 710093, 681422 Fax : 710513 Email : info@blpbint.com 114. Jean Adajian (Managing Director) Blue Avenue Clothing Ltd. House #229, Road # 16 (2nd Floor), New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 8821595 Fax : 8861920 115. Md. Masudur Rahman Managing Director Blue Bard International Ltd. 22/A, Konipara, Tejgaon, Dhaka Tel: 8855330 116. A.K.M. Ansarul Alam Lincon Managing Director Blue Bird Attire Ltd. House #62, Road #3 Block-B, Niketon, Gulshan-1, Dhaka Tel : 9886956, 0171526595 Fax : 8857620 Email : bluebird_attire@siriusbb.com 117. Md. Masudur Rahman (Proprietor) Blue Bird Fashion House # 62, Road # 3 Block B, Niketon Gulshan-1, Dhaka Tel : 9886956, 0171-526595 Fax : 8857620 Email: bluebird_attire@siriusbb.com 118.Tang Xin Xin (Matthew) Country Manager Blueline International (BD) Ltd. House # 2 (3rd Floor), Road # 4 Sector 1, Uttara, Dhaka NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 53

119. Rajesh Sethi (Managing Director) Bodyline (Far East) Ltd. House # 3A Road # 50 Gulshan-2, Dhaka Tel: 9885194, 8813846 Fax : 8823731 Email : mahabub@bodylinebd.com 120.Tanvir Ahmed (Proprietor) Bodywears International House #82 (1st Floor) New Airport Road Banani, Dhaka Tel: 8828402 Fax : 8817102 Email: bodywear@1postbox.com 121. Borhan Uddin (Chairman) Bokatex International Ltd. Hosue # 417, Road #7 DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 8840418, 01715491037 Fax : 8840359 Email: bokatex@bokacrattex.com 122.Tanjima Mahmud (Proprietor) Boston Sportswear MFG. House #79/M Airport Road Banani, Dhaka Tel: 9896755 Fax : 8812294 Email : boston@gononet.com 123. Prisco Faiella (Managing Director) Boston Sportswear MFG. Ltd. House #14, Road #3 Block-K Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 9896755 Fax : 8812294 Email: boston@bdcom.com 124. Ahamed Dastaquir Ismail General Manager Braitrim Plastiform Bangladesh Ltd. Hosue #22, Road # 113A Gulshan, Dhaka Tel: 9889594, 01713061157 Fax : 8813048 Email: dasty@braitrimplastiform-bd.com 125. A.T.M. Sharhad Uddin (Proprietor) Brandman KR Complex, House # 2, Road # 2 Lane# 3, Block-K, Kalishahar Housing Halishahar, Chittagong Tel: 031-2513815, 01714281444 Fax: 031-2513816 Email : brandman@yahoo.com 126.Tamiz Uddin Ahmed Managing Director Broadway Designs Ltd.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES 47, Dilkusha C/A (2nd Floor) Dilkusha, Dhaka Tel:8810217 Fax : 9882631 Email: bdway@bdcom.com 127. Ataul Huq (Managing Director) Brooks Wear Ltd. 2/1, Eskaton Garden Road Eskaton, Dhaka Tel: 8317223 Fax : 8322059 Email: brookswear@dhaka.net 128. Md. Faruque Hossain Managing Director Brothers Impex Ltd. 48, Kazi Nazrul Islam Avenue (3rd Floor) Kawran Bazar, Dhaka Tel:8126911, 018-212906 Fax:9113042 Email : bcsl@agni.com 129. Syed Mostafa Zaman Managing Director Bunano Classic (Pvt.) Ltd. 2/F-3/13 Mirpur, Dhaka Tel: 8015702 Fax : 8015702 130. Faizul Hassan Managing Director Business Universe Ltd. 345 Segun Bagicha Ramna Segunbagicha, Dhaka Tel: 9337740-43, 8316481 Fax : 8313538 Email: bunil@bangla.net 131. Jong Hwan Yang Managing Director Buy IT Corporation Ltd. 41, Shamsuddin Mansion Gulshan North, Gulshan, Dhaka Tel: 9880654, 9882699 Fax : 8824128 Email : buyit@bttb.net.bd 132. U. K. Chang (Managing Director) C & K Trading Co., Ltd. House #102/7 New Airport Road Banani, Dhaka Tel: 9892744-5 Fax : 9881100 Email: ck@bdmail.net 133. Roshan Withanage Managing Director C J International Ltd. Apt # 4C, House #11 Road #33 Gulshan-1, Dhaka Tel: 8835912, 01713046641

Fax : 8835913 Email: roshan.withanage@cjahn.net 134. Md. Mahmud Hasan Managing Director C.F. Gallery Ltd. Nahar Plaza (7th Floor) Room # 813, 26, Sonargaon Road Hatirpool, Dhaka Tel: 8651349, 0189260532 Fax : 9671137 Email : cfgaliery@hotmail.com 135. Saiful Azam Chowdhury Proprietor Caesar International 82, Industrial Area Nasirabad, Chittagong Tel: 682423, 682551 Fax : 682820 Email: caesar@caesargroup.com 136. Mushtaq Ahmed Managing Director Caravan Mode Ltd. F.R.Tower (10th Floor) 32, Kamal Ataturk Avenue Banani, Dhaka Tel : 8836628, 01711525398 Fax : 8836629 Email: info@caravangroupbd.com 137. Paul Prodip (Managing Director) Caretex Sourcing Ltd. House # 161 (5th Floor) Road # 1, DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 8840592, 01713006202 Fax : 9861070 Email : paul@caretex-bd.com 138. Md. Arif Razzaque Country Manager Carrefour Trading Asia Ltd. Lotus Kamal Tower One, (7th floor), 57, J oar Sahara, New airport Road, Nikunja, Dhaka Tel : 8952988, 8959202-3, 101819245835 Fax : 8950096 Email: arif_razzaque@carrefour.com 139. Kaiser Hossain Managing Director Carrera Connections Ltd. Navana Tower (21st Floor) Apt - 21C, 45, Gulshan-1 Dhaka Tel : 8822644, 01711532552 Fax : 8834241 NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 54

Email: kaiser@carreralimited.com 140. Mir Momin-UI-Haque Managing Director Cassiopeia Mode & Designs Ltd. House #26 Road #4 Block-D, Banasree Rampura, Dhaka Tel : 01552356135, 01819270217 Fax : 9571580, 8318568 Email : cmd@dhaka.net 141. Perwez Shahed (Proprietor) Celin-Perwez Exportex International 90, South Bishil, Road # 5, Mirpur Section 1, Mirpur, Dhaka Tel: 8013318, 0191320620 Fax : 8013318 142.Tahsin Khan (Managing Director) Centro Tex Limited House #5 (2nd Floor) Road #10, Sector #1 Uttara, Dhaka Tel : 8922200, 8911256, 01711595528 Fax : 8913385 Email: tahsin.khan@centrotexbd.com 143. Golam Mahiuddin Khan Proprietor Channel Expor-tex International 19 (2nd Floor) Road #102, Gulshan-2 Gulshan, Dhaka Tel : 8828925, 8850462, 0171527049 Fax : 9891236 Email : channel@siriusbroadbabd.com 144. Juan Ricardo Gonzalez Managing Director Channel Expor-tex International Ltd. Monte Cristo, Flat # A1, Plot # 10A/2 Block-NE(K), 176, Gulshan Avenue Gulshan, Dhaka Tel: 9880296, 01713016230 Fax : 9898476 Email: info@channelbd.net 145. Muhammad Moxamul Islam Bappy (Managing Director) Chapter 17 Ltd. Hosue # 5 (3rd Floor) Garib-E-Newaz Avenue, Sector # 11 Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 8922261, 01713010006 Fax : 8921322 Email: mibappy@chapter17bd.com 146. Dong Jin Cha Managing Director

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Charip Trading Ltd. House #88A Road # 23A Banani, Dhaka Tel: 8819971 Fax : 8824917 Email : charip@dhaka.agni.com 147. Rohan Bandula Hemaratne Managing Director Chavi Bangladesh Ltd. House # 99 (Apt-A1) Road #4, Block # A Banani, Dhaka Tel: 8821494, 8815157 Fax : 8828666 Email: rohan@bol-online.com 148. Abu Jore Md. Shamaun Country Manager Cherryfield Trading Ltd. Apt. No. 4-1/A Road #6 Gulshan-1, Dhaka Tel: 9890730, 01713033200 Email: shamaun@cherryfield.com 149. Zahidul Haque Babul Managing Director Chi en & Associates Ltd. 73. Kakrail (9th Floor) Room # 901 & 902, Kakrail, Dhaka Tel: 8318704-5 Fax : 8314984 Email : chienasi@aitlbd.net 150. Abu I Kalam Azad (Proprietor) China Palace House # 28, Road # 8 Sector 11 Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 8933809, 01711520303 Fax : 8933810 Email: palace.china@gmail.com 151. Z. Shaukat Ghani (Proprietor) Chishtia Enterprise 27, Dilkusha C/A (5th Floor), Room # 602, Dilkusha, Dhaka Tel: 7170604, 0189249934 Fax : 9558793 Email: chishtia@agnil.net 152. Ln. M. Nazrul islam Chowdhury Chairman & Managing Director Chowdhury Fashion Wear & Buying 21/22, Agrabad C/A Agra bad, Chittagong Tel: 031-2514721, 01711225032 Fax: 031-2516158 153. Kamanashis Das (Ashis) Proprietor Chyeeti Fashion

370/411, Hemsen Lane Jamal Khan, Chittagong Tel: 044-333-03478 Email: cfashion@colbd.net 154. Mohammed Didarul Alam Managing Director Citex House #146, Road# 1-GA Sugandha R/A, Panchalaish, Chittagong Tel : 2551401, 2551402, 01711725969 Fax : 2551403 Email: alam@citexsweater.com 155. Md. Jashim Uddin Managing Director Citex Fashions A/33-34, BSCIC Industrial Estate F.I.D.C. Road, Kalurghat, Chittagong Tel: 671095 Fax : 671752 Email : citex@abnetbd.com 156. Md. Aminul Islam (Proprietor) City Apparel-Tex Co. (CATCO) House # 430, Road # 30 New DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel: 9886968, 01711528087 Fax : 9886970 Email: catco@bttb.net.bd 157. Md. Aminul Islam (Chief Executive Officer, Proprietor) City Import House #430, Road # 30, New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka Tel : 9886968, 01199851345 Fax : 9886970 Email: cimport@bol-online.com 158. Mohd. Giasuddin Managing Director Classic Clothing Co. Ltd. BTMC Bhaban (3rd Floor) 7-9, Kawran Bazar Kawran Bazar, Dhaka Tel: 0171530860 159. Md. Shahidullah Azim Managing Director Classic Fashion Concept Hosue # 1, Road # 2 Block-F Banani, Dhaka Tel : 8812630, 8812201, 01711520514 Fax : 8812620 Email: info@classicbd.com 160. M. Zakir Hossain (Proprietor) NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 55

Classic Fashion International Ltd. 41/1, Dilu Road 3rd Floor New Eskaton, Dhaka Tel : 9346011, 9338917, 018-238019 Fax : 8321583 Email: cfi@citechco.net 161. M.A. Muttaleeb Managing Director Classic International (Pvt.) Ltd. House #73, Road # 17a, Block-E Banani, Dhaka Tel: 9880840, 8825826 Fax : 8823562 Email : office@classic-match.com 162. K.S. Thay Chief Executive Officer Cloths “ R” Us House #407/6, Lane #7 DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka Tel: 01711068225, 8849045 Fax : 8849068 Email: clothsrus@gmail.com 163. Monjurul Alam (Proprietor) Collections 59, West Tejturi Bazar (3rd Floor) Tejgaon, Dhaka Tel: 9118490, 019-320264 Fax : 9118490 Email: french@bdcom.com 164. Liaquat Hossain Moghul Managing Director Colour Wear Ltd. 25, Rabindra Sarani, Sector-3 Uttara, Dhaka Tel: 8953316 Fax : 8953317 165. A.K. Giasuddin Mahmud Manager Accountants & Commercial Commercial Ways Company Limited House # 53, Road # 9 Block # F Banani, Dhaka Tel : 8824246, 8822614, 8824102 Fax : 8823484 Email: william@commercial-ways.com 166. Baratha Jayatilake (Manager) Comtextile (HK) Ltd. Chamber Building (5th Floor) Agrabad, Chittagong Tel :712792-5, 723346-7, 01713108700 Fax : 714634 Email: comtexctg@comtexctg.com

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Hem t ex ey es m o r e stores in China Leading Swedish home textile retailer chain Hemtex officially launched its purchasing office in the Pudong New Area in Shanghai. With a total of 189 stores, of which 143 are in Sweden, the firm is currently looking at the future with the Hemtex AB Board assessing the viability of expanding into the Chinese market, particularly in Shanghai. Hemtex's business concept is to sell affordable value-added home textiles and accessories-related products that appeal to a broader range of customers.

Textile Credit Ratings in China The China Chamber of Commerce for the Import and Export of Textiles has given credit ratings to Chinese textile enterprises for the first time. The scheme aims to support companies in the sector amid difficult global conditions. 128 textile firms received the top "AAA" rating, while another 14 got "AA" ratings. China textile Industry Association has announced that textile and apparel industry was officially launched Enterprise credit evaluation.This marks the textile and apparel industry financing of SMEs, business credit management and risk-low problem will be solved, and build faith and dishonesty of reward and punishment mechanism. "Sized Enterprises is the Government attaches great importance has been difficult to break through the persistent, 99.4% of China's textile and garment enterprises These are small and medium enterprises, their financing difficulties mainly in guarantee funds difficult, and this most important of which is the lack of credit system caused by the international financial crisis after this period the urgent need to address. "president of China Textile Industry Association, said Du Chau, the textile

Our passion for textile At Hemtex, we love pillows, to mention an example. And curtains, to mention another. But for us, a pillow is not just a pillow. And a curtain can have other qualities than just being made from Indian cotton and be able to simply hang by the window. Textiles and all that textiles can be and add to a room, besides lying on a table or hanging from a bathroom hook and look good, is what Hemtexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lifelong passion is all about. Or, to be honest, when the textiles are and do all of that at the same time in its own inimitable, irresistible, wonderful way, is when we love it the most. Design and functionality in one, forever. industry is a traditional pillar industry of national economy and an important livelihood industry, currently working from a Major Textile Textile power changes, up textile companies in the credit evaluation system not only to provide credit guarantee financing for the enterprise and strong evidence, but also to improve the competitiveness of enterprises in brand, from Xing Ye Shouxinjiannuo could be formed in terms of good practice of, produced to boost the industry Nei Health power. Du Chau, frankly, the current construction of textile and garment industry there are many credit shortage, such as a false escape standard, contract fraud, FALSIFYING induced by lack of sales and credit sales agent conflicts are restricting the development of the industry, the industry need to solve the "credit crisis . " China Textile Industry Association is NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 56

the SAC the Ministry of Commerce and the third batch of the credit evaluation of the pilot units in the industry. According to the China Textile Industry Association, Office of Director Ye Zhimin introduction of credit, China Textile Industry Association will host the first in the Association and members of professional associations to carry out corporate credit evaluation. Corporate credit rating will follow the realistic objective, corporate voluntary, open and transparent, service members great loss principle. Corporate credit rating will serve as an association to promote business development services to member companies of the long-term work carried out, from the 2010 corporate annual report received. Du Chau told the China Business News reporters, some companies are already active reporting requirements for evaluation.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES According to Du Chau introduction, textile and garment industry, enterprise credit evaluation system for the basic framework of textile and apparel companies in the financial, finance, human resources allocation, business operating conditions, business management, product quality, production safety, social prestige and many other factors to be an objective analysis and evaluation, released to the community twice a year of evaluation results, carried out as a corporate finance, mergers and acquisitions, foreign economic activity, an important reference. "A lot of production scale and sales are not telling the truth, so our credit rating system to include these basic data." In addition, the association will also set up channels of trade credit and business credit information collection database, the focus of the credit files, credit files to include trading partners, companies can voluntarily exchange, as long as the information you can provide your own for free inquiry, the community is can be compensated open. It will also establish a trustworthy and dishonesty of reward and punishment mechanism, and trustworthy business associations will be for financial institutions, relevant government departments to recommend, while bad credit business will be incorporated into a "black list." Du said that the textile industry for the international and domestic markets, chain length, industry cluster effect is obvious, direct service to hundreds of thousands of consumers, textile and garment enterprises to establish a credit system and credit rating industry, work, relationships to the business and interests of all parties.

Ch i n aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tex t i l e & ap parel exports up 25.73% yr-on-yr in H1 The Running Situation Analysis of China Textile Industry for the First Half Year of 2011 and the Trend Forecast

Report for the Whole Year, which was released by China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC), showed that the export volume of textile and apparel from January to June rose 25.73 percent year-on-year to US$ 111.725 billion, and the growth rate increased by 3.69 percentage points year on year. During the first six months, the export volume of four individual months exceeded US$ 20 billion. According to the forecasting of China National Textile and Apparel Council, from January to May, the export price of textile and apparel increased by 21.49 percent, the export price index of textile rose by 24.91 percent, and the export price index of apparel rose by 18.91 percent. From January to May this year, the export price of China textile and apparel increased by 21.49 percent.This over 20 percent increase is especially outstanding since China textile and apparel export industry has, for a long time, been winning the market with price competitiveness. In particular, under the influence of various factors such as unstable international market demand and appreciation of the RMB exchange rate against the U. S. dollar, the result is undoubtedly a piece of exciting news. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 57

Factors such as the rising cost of cotton and chemical fiber raw materials and the soar of labor cost are one of the reasons for the price hike of textile and apparel. However, after deep analysis, we see that rise in cost can't support price hike. Searching for the root, it's found that the main reason is that the structural adjustment of enterprises in textile and apparel industry in China has begun to take effect in recent years. In the middle of the year with prospects of more complicated international market in the next half year, how should we look at the export price hike of textile and apparel? First of all, it's noticed that, through technological innovation and brand cultivation, China textile and apparel have preliminarily obtained bargaining power in the international market. Textile and apparel trade is the most fundamental and active part of the world economy, and China textile and apparel is the main impellor of the world textile and apparel trade. In the past 20 years, the world economy has increased by 1 percent, the world textile and apparel export expressed in US Dollars has increased by 2 percent, and China textile and apparel export has increased by 4.86 percent. In re-

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES cent years, the growth of China textile and apparel trade has obviously accelerated compared with the world textile and apparel trade. The perfect export data indicate that China textile and apparel is doing better in terms of export and its industrial competitiveness and ability in sustainable development have been further enhanced.The main reason lies in that textile and apparel enterprises in China, faced with fierce competition in domestic and international markets, are attaching more importance to product upgrade, technology upgrade, equipment replacement, and brand cultivation. A great number of large and modernized textile and apparel enterprises have survived the fierce competition. These enterprises are close to or have reached world-class level in terms of technical equipment, productive technology, production management, and product design, and their competitiveness and bargaining power in the international market have been considerably enhanced. An analysis report from the website "China Customs statistics" also points out large enterprises tend to have stronger ability to work under pressure, and many large export enterprises report that they have abundant orders this year and are ready to expand production. Secondly, we should notice that emerging markets are pulling export dramatically but remain to be further developed. According to customs statistics, China textile and apparel export to markets worldwide is comprehensively rebounding, and export to emerging markets such as Latin America has increased considerably. From January to May, China's export volume to all the continents maintained double-digit growth. The export volume of China apparel to

European Union, America, and Japan continued to grow year-on-year by 29.12 percent, 16.07 percent and 21.44 percent respectively. Total value of export to those traditional markets reached US $ 33.162 billion, accounting for 64.66 percent of the total China apparel export, a year-on-year increase of 21.54 percent.

Price hike will also accelerate the trend of outward transition of China apparel processing industry. Southeast Asian countries can enjoy GSP (Generalized System of Preference) when they export to Europe and America, and these counties give foreign enterprise considerable preference in terms of tax policy.

Total value of export to emerging markets such as Latin America, Africa, ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations), and Russia reached US $ 8.143 billion, accounting for 15.88 percent of the total China apparel export, increasing 36.53 percent compared with a year earlier.

With the increases of labor cost in China, some labor intensive and lowvalue links in the production chain such as garment processing are gradually transferred to Southeast Asia, but the links with much technology content such as textile shell fabric still remain in China.

Apparently, export growth to emerging markets exceeded that to traditional markets. Statistics indicate that emerging markets have huge potential and enterprises should exert more efforts to further develop them and cultivate them into new growth points.

Since this year, domestic and overseas branded apparel enterprises have strengthened their efforts in overseas OEM. Some textile shell fabric is exported to Southeast Asia from China and made into ready-to-wear garments there, which are then distributed to Europe, America, Japan, and Korea.

Thirdly, we should also notice that price hike also brings deep influence on China textile and apparel industry. Price hike has aggravated the polarization of China textile and apparel export.Textile and apparel has entered the era of high cost. The rising cost of raw materials, labor forces, and physical distribution has brought huge pressure to enterprises to survive. With small profit margin and weak bargaining power, the medium and small size enterprises are on the weak positions in the industry, and it is hard for them to cope with various impacts because they also face the problem of difficult financing. At present, medium-sized and small enterprises constitute the main part of the textile and apparel industry in China, and they mainly produce medium- and low-end OEM products. Under the context of industrial structure adjustment, industrial resources flow to large enterprises at a higher speed, so industry reshuffle is inevitable. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 58

Insiders believe that China's position in the industrial chain of textile and apparel export is gradually changing, and the trend will be more obvious in the future. Although China textile and apparel export has achieved favorable and continuous development since this year, there are still many factors that restrain the development of the industry. Besides the possibility of export orders might reduce, enterprises are also faced with the upsurge of cost of production factors such as raw materials, labor forces, and energy and the restraint from appreciation of the RMB and environmental protection. Textile and apparel enterprises in China should catch the market opportunity and further explore and deepen emerging markets by increasing technology content, improving quality, and promoting additional value of original brands, so as to achieve better long-term development.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Pakistan : Textile sector earning exceeds target, increases 30pc Multan : Chairman All Pakistan Bed Sheet and Upholstery Manufacturers Association Khawaja Jalaluddin Roomi said that there was 30 percent increase in exports revenue than the target set in the textile sector. While addressing in a party, he expressed satisfaction over the country earned another three billion dollars due to exports in the textile sector. He clarified that billions of rupees in the textile sector was due to increase in prices at international level. He however said that there was five to seven percent reduction registered in exports of bed-sheets and towels. He stressed upon the government to ensure implementation on Trader Policy 2009-12 and Textile Policy 2009-14 as non-implementation is creating many problems for industrial sector. He urged upon the government to resolve issues related to duty drawback as thousands of cases are still pending in the State Bank. The chairman said that there was 9.2 percent reduction in export of textiles during July 2011 and it was due to the energy crisis. He said that the country was facing shortage of 7,739 megawatt electricity and 400 million cubic feet gas. He stressed upon the government to ensure uninterrupted power supply to textile sector otherwise the textile sector would not be in position to carry on the existing performance. He said the government would have to ensure steps to minimise difference between exports and imports in order to put the country on the path to progress and prosperity. Textile exports grow at 14.22 percent The textile exports during the first

month of the current fiscal year (201112) were recorded at $1.121 billion, showing an increase of 14.22 percent over the exports of $982.007 million of the same month of the last fiscal year, Federal Bureau of Statistics (FBS) has reported. However, the exports of textile group witnessed decrease of 15.26 percent when compared to the exports of $1.323 billion during June 2011, according to FBS provisional figures. The textile products that contributed in positive growth of textile sector included raw cotton, exports of which increased from $1.026 million during July 2010 to $11.521 million during July 2011, showing an increase of 1022.90 percent. As compared to the raw cotton exports of $9.815 billion in June 2011, the exports of the commodity during July witnessed increase of 17.38 percent. Similarly, exports of cotton yarn increased by 3.29 percent in July 2011 over July 2010 by growing from 112.664 billion to $116.368 billion. Exports of cotton cloth in July 2011 increased by 12.28 percent over July 2010 while that of yarn other than cotton yarn by 530 percent, knit wear by 10.73 percent, towels by 13.53 percent, tents, canvas and tarpaulin by 54.09 percent, readymade garments by 29 percent, art silk and synthetic textile by 40 percent, made up articles (excluding towels and bedwear) 21.89 percent whereas the exports of other textile materials witnessed increase of 30.60 during July 2011 over July 2010. The products that witnessed negative growth in exports during July 2011 over 2011 included cotton (carded or combed), and bed wear exports of which fell by 75.97 percent and 3.13 percent respectively. On the other hand, as compared to the exports of June 2011, the exports of raw cotton in July witnessed positive growth of 17.38 percent whereas the exports of tents, canvas and tarpaulin NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 59

increased by 2.33 percent. The exports of cotton yarn witnessed negative growth of 24.06 percent in July 2011 over June 2011. Similarly the exports of cotton cloth decreased by 20.4 percent, cotton carded or comber 53 percent, yarn other than cotton yarn 24.56 percent, knit wear 7.74 percent, bed wear 12.7 percent, towels 14.78 percent, readymade garments 13.91 percent, art, silk and synthetic textile 20.27 percent, madeup articles (excluding towels, beadwear) 0.83 percent whereas exports of other textile products decreased by 31.98 percent.

PM Gilani approves additional Rs1 billion for Pakistan Textile City Karachi : Prime Minister Yousuf Raza Gilani has approved additional Rs1 billion for Pakistan Textile City to meet the urgent financial need of the project. This was stated by the Federal Advisor on Textiles and director of Pakistan Textile City Dr Mirza Ikhtiar Baig. He thanked the prime minister for sanctioning the additional amount which was needed on urgent basis to complete some remaining work. Baig also thanked Finance Minister Dr Abdul Hafiz Sheikh and Minister for Textile Industry, Makhdoom Shahabuddin for their continued support to the project. He said that since the plots are offered to interested entrepreneurs for sale in the project, it was necessary to complete all the initial development work. Baig called it a testimony and endorsement to the ownership of the project by the Government of Pakistan. It may be noted that Textile City located at Port Qasim is a project of value added textile industries with most modern facilities. The project was recently inaugurated by the prime minister of Pakistan and now industrial plots are ready for allotment.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Pakistan : Bleak global cotton scenario 5pc cut i n m ar k u p o n t ex t i l e loans sought Lahore : All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) Chairman Gohar Ejaz has demanded five per cent cut in interest rate on all outstanding short and long term loans as on 30 June 2011 in line with the measures adopted by the regional competitors because of the global cotton crisis. In a press statement, he said the regional competitors — India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and China — had responded to the bleak global cotton scenario by taking different support measures for their textile sector. The APTMA chairman said the Indian government provided seven per cent duty drawback to the spinning and value-added segments. “Sri Lanka has provided five per cent tax-free incentive payment to eligible companies exporting textiles. Bangladesh has been providing different stimulus measures like bank loan rescheduling facilities, five per cent cash incentive on yarn exports, access to Export Development Fund for cotton import whereas China has extended up to 14 per cent textile rebates and put into place a comprehensive Textile Reviving Programme (TRP).”

ciency due to energy issues, adverse law and order situation and a financial challenge of paying 15 per cent interest to the bank against short term and long term requirements of capital. “This high markup is being charged on an obsolete economic myth that it is the only way of controlling inflation.This thinking has not worked in six years but the policymakers are not realising the fact that inflation cannot be exported to the US and the EU markets offering below one per cent interest rate to the industrial sector for the last three years.” The APTMA chairman said the government should not force its exporting industry to bankruptcy because of flawed policy and bring interest rates down to 7.5 per cent. “There is a need for out-of-box solution to keep exporting industry alive through paying back five per cent on all outstanding short and long term loans on June 30, 2011.” He said the textile industry had achieved $14 billion exports during outgoing fiscal year. However, the level of activity achieved by the industry on its own would be difficult to sustain in future without any stimulus. He said the current non-performing loans amounting to Rs600 billion, which in the event of unresponsiveness by the government, were likely to go up sharply. Therefore, the government must provide support to the sector in the prevailing crisis-like situation.

Ejaz said heavy losses were incurred by different sectors across the textile value chain in all textile producing countries including Bangladesh, China and Pakistan. He was of the view that a five interest rate cut would lend support to textiles that contributed to the economy. “A small support will enable a better balance of payments position for the government and will have a salutary effect on trade and employment.”

Vice President KCCI & Chairman AEPC assure to increase interaction and participate in fairs an d ex h i b i t i o n o r g anized in India and Pakistan

Ejaz pointed out that the textile sector was running below 70 per cent effi-

Karachi Chamber of Commerce & Industry’s High-level Business DelegaNCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 60

tion headed by Junaid Esmail Makda, Vice President, met the Chairman of Apparel Export Promotion Council of India (AEPC) and exchanged views on participation of trade fairs, exhibitions and delegation. According to KCCI’s press release, Junaid Makda informed that meeting was held on the occasion of India International Garments Fair with Premal Udani, Chairman AEPC, where he asserted upon regular exchange of trade information. He apprised about the vital role of KCCI to promote trade. KCCI, since 2004, was also organizing annual “My-Karachi Exhibition” wherein Indian companies used to participate, however, since last 3 years their participation was not witnessed, he informed. Makda also stressed upon the need of easy market access to the business community of two countries. He said that the bilateral trade will act as cornerstone for more Confidence Building Measures (CBM). He said that KCCI had already signed 10 Memorandum of Understanding with its Indian counterparts for promotion of two-way trade. He appreciated that there exist a large quantum of trade of textile products and therefore the business community of two-countries should play their effective role. Mr. Premal Udani, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council of India (AEPC), earlier warmly welcomed Mr. Junaid Esmail Makda, Vice President KCCI and the delegation. He was of the view that trade between two countries should be increased aligned with the existing potential. Business must lead over the bureaucracy. He informed that AEPC had worked to integrate the entire industry, supplying stream of manpower; identifying the best countries to source machinery and other infrastructure. He highlighted that for the skills development of human resource, AEPC had introduced the mobile training centres on wheels equipped with latest machinery which move to desired destinations and provides hands-on-training to the human resource. Friendly Government policy

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES towards exports and excellent cultural and political connections with the importing countries had nurtured their industry and made it bigger and better each year. Ashok G Rajani, Chairman, Exhibition Advisory Committee, Apparel Export Promotion Council of India, earlier, received the KCCI delegation at India International Garments Fair at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi. Rakesh Vaid, President, Garments Exporters Association & Ex-Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council, Vishwa Nath, Founder & Executive Member, Export Promotion Council, Ministry of Commerce, Government of India. Rahul Mehta, President and Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director of The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) also exchanged views with the Vice President-KCCI.

Explosion at textile factory in South Korea kills 5, injures 2 Gumi, South Korea - An explosion sparked a fire at a textile factory in southeastern South Korea recently, killing five people and injuring two others, police said. The apparent accident broke out at around 1:35 p.m. at the laboratory in a three-story factory building of textile company TK Chemical in the industrial city of Gumi, about 200 kilometers southeast of Seoul. The blaze, which sent black smoke billowing into the sky, gutted the second and third floors of the building. Seven people were in the building at the time, of whom five were confirmed killed, including deputy laboratory chief Hong Myung-hyuk, 49, police said.Two others injured were taken to hospital with serious burns, they said. Twenty-six fire trucks and about 110 firefighters brought the blaze under control in about two hours, police said.

TK Chemical's main business item is polyester fiber produced by a state-ofthe-art continuous polymerization and direct spinning system that was introduced by ICI Fibre of England. TK Chemical is equipped with the world's most advanced facilities, technologies, and production rates. The automated distribution system ensures tight, time-specific inventory control. In particular, TK Chemical produces and supplies high-quality spandex-fiber products with the latest high-speed production facilities and the third largest production capacity in the world. TK Chemical also produces and supplies resin chips for bottles and textiles. Police suspected that experiments involving inflammable chemical substances might have ignited the explosion.

Bangladesh : FM Muhith assures textile mills of hiking cash incentive Finance Minister AMA Muhith has assured the country's troubled textile mills of hiking cash incentives. Textile mills are hit hard by plummeting sale in recent months owing to volatile cotton prices in the global market and the European Union's easing of import rules. Muhith told the millers and garment manufacturers that the government was "sympathetic" to their cause and would enhance cash incentives against their sale in an effort to bail them out of the ongoing troubles. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 61

The assurance came when the officials of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) met him at his Secretariat office. The three associations, whose members account for 80 per cent of the country's exports and some 30 per cent of the imports, demanded 15 per cent cash incentive on their sale, up from the existing five per cent. "We will consider the demand for enhancing cash incentive in a sympathetic way as the textile sector now faces numerous difficulties," Muhith told reporters after the meeting. "Most of the demands from the textile sector are genuine.We will consult with other ministries to solve their problems

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Alamin said if the cash incentive was not raised substantially, most of the country's 300 textile and spinning mills would be forced to pull down shutters as they could not compete with cheap yarn being imported from India, Pakistan and China.

Finance Minister AMA Muhith immediately after the Eid vacation," he added.

He said the millers have urged the minister to convert their inventory loss into term loan and extend the credit repayment schedule as part of the bailout package for the sector.

Local textile mills, which have invested billions of dollars in the capital intensive sector, bought cotton at a high price from international market and were facing the prospect of selling their products at a price far lower than their manufacturing cost. The mills have also been hit by European Union's relaxation of import rules from January this year, which now allow Bangladeshi apparel makers to get duty-free access to the 27-nation bloc by sourcing yarn from anywhere in the world. In the past, local textile mills would enjoy a protected market at home as the EU rules would force the apparel makers to source yarn and fabrics from Bangladesh in order to enjoy duty-free access to the economic bloc. The association leaders sought a raft of bail-out benefits from the finance minister including a ban on import of yarn -- up to 60 counts -- for six months and converting the working capital loans of textile mills into term ones. "It's a very fruitful meeting.We narrated our woes to the finance minister and he has assured us of enhancing incentives very soon," said BTMA president Jahangir Alamin.

He also linked political unrest and weak infrastructures to the sluggish investment in primary textile. “The primary textile sector needs huge capital, and huge investment is linked with many risks. Entrepreneurs invest cautiously in the capital intensive ventures,” Bakht said.

Fresh investment in the primary textile sector is declining because of an uncertainty in the gas and power connections and a lack of capital adequacy, said businessmen. The primary textile sector, which includes spinning, weaving, printing, dyeing and finishing, plays a vital role as backward linkage industries for woven and knitwear garments by supplying fabrics and yarn.

According to AK Azad, president of the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI), the flow of investment in the textile sector is on the wane due to the gas and power crises and the recent changes in the rules of origin by EU. The local investors feel discouraged as the readymade garment makers prefer importing fabrics, rather than buying from the local millers as they can enjoy duty benefits from the EU even from export of garment made from the imported fabrics, Azad said.

Currently, primary textiles meet the demand for more than 80 percent fabrics in knitwear and 40 percent in woven, the businessmen said.

“If the gas and power supply does not improve, investment in the primary textile sector will slow down further,” he said.

According to Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), a total of 13 new spinning mills were set up during January-August this year, while the number was 10 last year, seven in 2009 and 44 in 2008.

Jahangir Alamin, president of BTMA, also echoed the views of Bakht and Azad, and said many mills cannot go into operation for the lack of gas and power supply although their construction was completed years ago.

The number of new initiatives in weaving is also on the decline, as 19 new units were set up during January-August this year, while the number was 34 last year, 49 in 2009 and 66 in 2008, the BTMA data showed.

“Moreover, the millers have slashed down their production capacity by nearly half for the market situation and inadequate supply of gas and power,” he said.

Primary textiles see slow investment Leaders of the associations told the minister that the country's primary textile sector faced a disastrous future as they had no market to sell their products, leading to huge inventory worth Tk90 billion.

of rules of origin by EU and inadequate fund from banks.

Only five units were set up in dyeing, printing and finishing in the JanuaryAugust period this year, 10 units last year, one in 2009 and 24 in 2008. Zaid Bakht, research director of Bangladesh Institute of Development Studies (BIDS), blamed the slowdown on gas and power crises, low incentive from the government, relaxation NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 62

A vibrant primary textile sector is the strength of apparel industry, he said. “If we cannot increase the volume of the textile sector, we might not be able to maintain the strong values in export of garment items,” he said. He said no government has taken any step to protect the local investment in the textile sector.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Chemists dying to uncover historic textiles' secrets US researchers have developed a sensitive and simple technique for identifying the dyes used to colour textile artefacts. Their approach will not only help understand the composition of heritage materials for conservation purposes but could offer new insights into the technological relationship ancient peoples had with their environment. Cathy Selvius DeRoo of Detroit Institute of Arts and Ruth Ann Armitage of Eastern Michigan University have applied direct analysis in real time-timeof-flight mass spectrometry (DARTMS) to the four main natural fibres cotton, wool, linen and silk. Their aim was to develop a technique to identify the dyes found in historic textiles. However, pigments can have a strong tinting effect on textiles at microgram and even nanogram quantities and so represent a major analytical challenge, especially as often only a tiny fibre or fragment is available. DART-MS is an ambient ionisation technique that has previously been used in forensic, food and pharmaceutical analysis. The team tested DARTMS on solutions of three common dyestuffs, quercetin, indigotin and alizarin, found in artefacts at the Detroit Institute of Arts, as well as simulated dyed fibres. Control experiments with dyes produced by the team from dry yellow onion skin or ground madder root, were used to validate the findings. The approach allowed the team to quickly carry out precise mass determinations on small samples of dyed textiles.The ability to identify flavonoid, indigoid and anthraquinone classes of dyes means that this analytical approach holds promise as an important tool for the analysis of the organic dyes found in rare cultural heritage materials. 'We may be able to study historic cloth-

Identifying dyes used in textile artefacts could help to identify how old they are ing, furniture, carpets, puppets, paints, manuscripts with this technique,' says Armitage. 'The applications are driven by the questions being asked, either from a conservation or archaeological standpoint.' In some cases, understanding how dyes were used in a particular object can provide evidence of trade or verify the age of an artefact if, for example, they were only available after trade with the New World. Such understanding is helpful in conservation as it is necessary to first understand the materials to preserve them. The team points out that their approach might have wider uses. 'Synthetic textiles should work as well, but we haven't tried yet,' Armitage tells Chemistry World. 'The organic colourants can be used in paints as well, so we are working to adapt our technique for identifying the dye compounds in other artworks, too.' She adds that the approach might also be extended to ceramics. 'Right now, the limitation is having a sample that we can place into the DART gas stream,' she concedes. 'That means physically removing a piece of an artefact/artwork. You have to have a good reason to sample these kinds of materials.' NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 63

Maciej Jarosz, chair of analytical chemistry at Warsaw University of Technology, Poland, suggests that the technique would be most useful for analysing small objects with simple matrices without separation. 'The idea is really valuable,' he says. However, he points out that it could be very difficult to differentiate flavonoid glycosides, because of the instrumental limitations, mainly the dimensions of the ionisation space. (Courtesy : David Bradley)

‘Preview in Seoul 2011,’ Show for Global Trend, was a Big Success The number of visitors increased by 3.6% compared to last year, with growth both in quality and quantity. ‘Preview in Seoul 2011’ was closed in great success on September 2. In the exhibition where 252 exhibitors from home and abroad participated, total 9,242 people visited including 882 overseas buyers. This year, Preview in Seoul achieved growth in quality like the increased number of local and overseas influential buyers, thanks to internal stability

Preview in SEOUL 2011 was held in Hall B of the COEX from August 31st to September 2nd, 2011. A total of 252 exhibitors participated. The Korea Federation of Textile Industries Exhibition and Marketing Team has declared that the Preview in SEOUL 2012 will be held from Sept. 5 to 7, 2012.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES

by expansion of professional exhibitors and diverse seminar programs.Particularly, overseas buyers which used to be limited on Asian countries like China or Japan expanded to the Americas and Europe and from more diverse brands like famous SPA brands like Forever21, L.L. Bean, and Adolfo Dominguez to luxurious boutiques. Seong-Ok Gwon, a manager of Lenzing, an Austrian company which participated in PIS again after three years, said, “We had 80 consultations approximately, including Korean representative exporters like Sae-A Trading and PANKO, and overseas famous brands like Forever21 and BCBG. It seems that size and quality of buyers have been high improved comparing with 3 years ago”. According to Bok-Gyu Nam, a CEO of Young Poong Filltex which newly presented new fabrics with UV protection along with existing anchor products, they had consultations more actively than ever since reputations on Young Poong Filtex and their representative fabrics have been highly enhanced and

especially, 7 denier lightweight goods and Colde Noir, a new product, achieved 350 million (KRW) of consultations, approximately. Meanwhile, Multi Fashion Textile which introduced functional heating and cooling fabrics signed a contract for providing 3 million shirts with a buyer. “Although there’re only few sourcing companies in yarns, we’re satisfied with meeting a big buyer from Canada who produces circular knitting fabrics for jersey and Korean major companies like LG Fashion”, Woong-Gyo Seo, a section chief of Shinhan Spinning which presented hemp developed through stream collaborations with wool-blended yarns, their main item, said.

positively on Korean fabrics.Takahasi, a purchasing agent of Itochu Corporation, showed interest in purchasing by saying, “We had consultations with Texland & Nexko, WATEC, and ST Onechang. The technological skills of exhibitors are excellent and the items are cheaper than those we have, so they’ll be competitive in Japanese market”. Adolfo Dominguez, a luxurious brand from Spain, showed great interest in eco-friendly fabrics including cotton and silk by Young Textile, Visionland, and JK Fabric, and Swift Galey from New York in 3 way tricot, newly developed by Shinwon Textile.

Most exhibitors who participated in PIS for the first time like Gaon International, Saron International, Ahwa Textile, and Iljoong Intertex evaluated the exhibition as ‘beyond expectation’ and said that they’ll achieve more performance by thorough preparations next year.

On the other hand, G-III Apparel and SK Textile from New York expressed grievance on exhibited items centered on fabrics, repetitive displayed items, and a bit higher price than before. Buyers from the Americas specially had high demands on exhibitors who’re available in needlework as well as fabrics and higher demands on home textile.

Meanwhile, most of buyers responded

Satisfaction on high quality of exhib-

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 64

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES ited items and well-organized structure of exhibition, although smaller size than overseas exhibitions, was high in general, but absence of exhibitors in functional yarns, lack of specific items like knit and wool, and of promoting channel for Chinese buyers who account for the most in number were pointed out as improvements.

‘Preview in Seoul 2011’ : Some Pictures of the Exhibitors and Visitors

Meanwhile, enhanced professional programs were welcomed by Korean buyers and exhibitors. Particularly, Presentation on Development of New Materials by 5 global companies in materials who also participated in the exhibition received the most attentions. Fashion Trend Seminar by Stylesight and PFIN also received positive responses and dragged Korean buyers into the exhibition hall. Dong-Soo Kim, a vice president of KOFOTI (Korea Federation of Textile Industries), said, “We achieved overall growth in quality like vitalization of seminar programs related to the exhibition, increased number of influential Korean and overseas buyers, and actual achievement of consultations and contracts. For the next year, we’ll further enhance the quality of the exhibition by upgrading improvements surveyed by exhibitors and buyers”. Preview in Seoul is a business trade show which has special highlights on high functional and eco-textiles and presents outstanding and distinguished textiles. First organized by the Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI) in January 2000 and now in its 12th year, Preview in Seoul has become Korea's premier textile exhibition aiming to create superior value through promoting active exchanges and building partnerships between overseas visitors and Korean textile companies. Preview in Seoul is a business trade show which has special highlights on high functional and eco-textiles and presents outstanding and distinguished textiles. (Report and pics courtesy : Aving News Network) NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 65

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Fujifilm textile inks certified to GOTS Kent - Fujifilm has announced that more than 50 products from three of its Sericol screen printing textile ink ranges have now been approved by the Soil Association's certification body to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) standard for use in organic textile processing. The certification means that Fujifilm is now the first company to have products approved under the Soil Association’s new ‘Approved Inputs for Textiles Scheme’ which has been created to help organic textile and garment manufacturers to source low-impact textile processing chemicals. Fujifilm said that the certification process involved carefully balancing print performance characteristics with the toxicological and ecological requirements that were necessary to meet the approval criteria. The products approved are from three of the Sericol screen printing textile ink ranges and include Texiscreen Aqua AJ – a water based ink for direct printing; Texcharge TC – a water based discharge ink for printing dark garments; and Pioneer Ultra YC – an opaque PVC-free and phthalate-free plastisol ink for printing line and process colours together with a range of special effects including high build, puff and suede. “Fujifilm is delighted to have achieved this approval from the Soil Association Certification that demonstrates Fujifilm’s commitment to sustainability,” said Jon Harper-Smith, marketing manager, Fujifilm Graphic Systems Europe. “We are thrilled that it is now even easier for our customers to print certified organic textiles. With this comprehensive range of Soil Association approved screen printing inks there is virtually no limit to the range of colours and effects that can now be printed onto organic certified textiles.” Georgina Thomas, Soil Association

Certification textile specialist, said:“We are excited to announce that Fujifilm is the first company to offer Soil Association approved inputs for organic textiles. These inks meet strict criteria on toxicity and biodegradability according to GOTS, the international gold standard for organic textile processing.”

About GOTS :

The Soil Association & GOTS

3. Compliance with minimum social criteria.

The Soil Association has been working in organic textiles for over 10 years, and played a leading role in the development of GOTS, a standard which the Soil Association Certification now certifies to. The Soil Association textile licensees saw 35% sales growth in 2010. Francis Blake, Soil Association policy advisor and member of the GOTS International Working Group, said: “The increasing range of approved chemical inputs available to almost 3000 GOTS certified textile and garment businesses worldwide demonstrates that certified organic textiles represent an exciting and buoyant market sector. It is increasingly clear that it is possible to produce modern, fashionable textiles in a way that is kinder, cleaner and better for people and the planet.” The Soil Association - the largest organic certification body in the UK, with almost 30 years experience - played a leading role in the development of the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) and is a quarter owner of Global Standard GmbH which manages the GOTS standards. Approval of chemical inputs for textiles to GOTS with Soil Association Certification Ltd offers : ·

the Soil Association approved symbol

a dedicated certification officer to guide you through approval

a not-for-profit, practical approval service

no extra charge for support NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 66

There are three core elements to GOTS : 1. The use of certified organic fibres. 2. Eco friendly processing and manufacturing system.

The GOTS standards detail all the requirements for organic textile processing and cover the following areas : Certified organic natural fibres : Your products must contain a minimum of 95% organic fibre to label it as organic and 70% to label it as made with X% organic. Accessories and additional materials permitted : Non-organic fibre content and accessories must meet the requirements for material type permitted. Minimum social criteria (based on ILO norms) : If you have employees you must comply with the social and employment criteria. Separation and traceability of organic products : Organic and non-organic products must be kept separate, and you must be able to account for incoming and outgoing organic products, including keeping supplier certificates on file. Chemical inputs used in processing: these must be approved to GOTS before use. We can provide you with details of over 4000 chemical inputs already approved or assess new inputs you want to use. Harmful residues in accessories and final products : If there is a risk your final products or accessories may contain harmful residues, they may need to be tested. Environmental management and waste water treatment : You’ll need an

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES environmental policy and waste water must be tested and treated (by you or your local authority). Basic quality requirements : If you are applying colour, fastness must be checked; and if you are making garments dimensional stability must be checked. Labelling : Labels must meet the GOTS and Soil Association standards, and be checked by us before application. GOTS is a private standard as organic textiles are not yet covered by the EU organic regulation for marketing organic foods); but if you want to be sure your product descriptions are accurate, reassurance for your customers, then certification is recommended. To market products as Soil certified, the whole supply chain behind the product must be certified. This means the raw fibre national or internationally recognised organic farming standards, and each step in the processing been certified to GOTS by an approved certifier. Notes: 1) there are some exemptions for traders and retailers 2) There are specific requirements for certification if you are trading in USA. Contact details : Soil Association Certification Limited South Plaza, Marlborough Street, Bristol BS1 3NX 2406 (UK) Tel. : 0117 314 5046 Email : goorganic@soilassociation.org www.soilassociation.org/certification

Weaving Some MAGIC for U.S. Textile Exporters U.S. cotton is still king around the world, but the government and domestic manufacturers would really like to send other American-made fabrics, yarn and apparel down the global export runway, with cameras flashing. At a recent MAGIC show held August

The United States is the world's biggest exporter of cotton. Here, at the MAGIC show in Las Vegas, a vendor offers cotton t-shirts. 21-24 in Las Vegas, a big promotion of U.S. exports was on display for some 60,000 fashion and textile industry attendees. American manufacturers have their antennas up in search of opportunities, especially as China's burgeoning middle class, rising labor costs and the weak U.S. dollar make Chinese exports pricier than they used to be. “With wages going up in China, we want people to know one of the best resources is in the U.S., and that for sourcing, they can reach out to North America, Central America and South America,” Chris DeMoulin, MAGIC International President and executive vice president of Advanstar’s Fashion Group, said. The goal of President Barack Obama’s National Export Initiative, announced in his 2010 State of the Union Address, is to double exports by the end of 2014. In this, it has made some progress: in 2010, the United States exported $19.7 billion of textiles and apparel to the world, up 18.9 percent from $16.6 billion in 2009, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce’s Office of Textiles and Apparel. Although it is No. 1 in global cotton exports, the United States is only the fourth-largest exporter of textiles and NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 67

apparel, and the third-largest global producer of man-made fibers. Francisco Sanchez, undersecretary for the Department of Commerce’s International Trade Administration, says that U.S. yarn and fabric manufacturers have opportunities to grow here in the West, which is why the pending freetrade agreements that the Obama administration wants to sign with Colombia and Panama (South Korea is also on the list) are so important. The debt-ceiling debate sidelined those talks earlier this summer, but now the administration hopes that Congress will tackle the issue in September, and Sanchez sees a free-trade deal with Colombia to be especially pivotal to keeping the export momentum going. “Orders are coming back to the region,” Sanchez, who spoke at MAGIC, said. “Quality, reliability, speed-to-market, preferential tariff treatment, and cost structure play an important role.” Among the nation’s biggest opportunities are advanced textiles, not for fashion but for military, construction, medical and transpor tation end-uses, Sanchez noted. He also saw opportunities for U.S. yarn, for example, to be spun for supplying Central American mills, which make apparel for U.S. retailers.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Charities are selling an increasing amount of the material they receive in their shops

MAGIC featured an Americas Pavilion, devoted to vendors in North and South America, and a “Sourcing in the Americas” summit to expose visitors to the wonders of made in the USA goods, among others. One of the big trends for retailers this year is to do their own sourcing of textiles and apparels for private labels and private brands, DeMoulin said. As the economy has recovered, attendance figures at MAGIC have come back accordingly, and although they were not yet made public, DeMoulin says that both of the first two days of the show were up over last year.That’s an important barometer, because when business is down, trade show attendance tends to go down with it. This year, De Moulin said that the attitude was positive, and people were thinking about their businesses and what they could do to keep them on the right track. "With everything that’s going on financially, and with all the things going on in Washington, people think, 'This is what I do have control over,'" he said.

Textile recyclers refute claims they won’t buy rags Charities need to set the prices they ask textile recyclers to pay for rags at a ‘more sustainable level’ if they are to avoid being left with unsold material. That is the message from the Textile Recycling Association, which has sought to downplay reports from charities that recyclers are no longer interested in lower grade material, or rag, and only want to buy high-grade clothes that can be sold on to be worn again. Rag, such as ripped clothing, is traditionally used in applications such as wipers and mattress filling. One charity in the Nottingham area told letsrecycle.com that it had been told by several textile collectors that they “they don’t take rags, only good qual-

ity to send abroad”.This, they claimed, could lead to increasing amounts of textiles being sent to landfill. The reports were corroborated by one North West textile recycler, who said: “We don’t do that much in charity shops but there must be something in it because we’re being offered charity shops which is something we don’t normally get offered.” But, the scale of the issue was questioned by Alan Wheeler, national liaison manager for the Textile Recycling Association (TRA), who said: “This is the first time I have heard of this. “Prices have continued to remain firm across all grades and I think that the suggestion of any grade of charity clothing being sent to landfill is somewhat premature.” The Charity Retail Association, which represents charity shops nationwide, also suggested the issue might be isolated, as researcher Cristina OsoroCangas, said: “It’s the first time I’ve heard about this.” Ms Osoro-Cangas said there had been an average price rise of four pence per kilo every six months for material sold by charity shops and that there strong demand for material. But, she said that if charities were finding it hard to sell material, they should contact the CRA for help in finding end markets. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 68

For the TRA, Mr Wheeler suggested that if charities were facing difficulties in moving all the material they weren’t able to sell in their shops, they should look at the prices they were asking textile recyclers to pay for it. And, he also highlighted what he said was a decline in the “general quality” of material being offered by charity shops to textile recyclers, which he claimed was through a combination of more clothing actually being sold in shops He said textile recyclers had reported that: “The general quality of clothing and textiles coming out of charity shops has declined over recent years, as charity shops are seemingly creaming off more of the better quality clothing for sale in their shops and rotating clothing around the country.” Previously, only 20% of material received by charities was sold in shops, but Mr Wheeler said this was now nearer 50% on average.These sentiments were echoed by one Scottish textile recycler, who said that, while he had heard of collectors asking for higher quality material, this was understandable given the cost of processing and the quality of material charities offered them. “Processing costs £100 a tonne. You’ve got to get good quality,” he said. “The charity shops are right in what

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES they’re saying [but] they’re picking out the best cottons and trying to put good quality clothing to one side and then ask for a high price for what’s left. Market share Mr Wheeler also claimed that some charity shops were getting collectors to outbid each other for material and force prices up, with collectors doing so in order to maintain their market share in the hope prices will drop again – despite it meaning they operate at a loss. “If there are reports of merchants demanding higher quality of material from charity shops, it would seem as though this is being driven by the high price demanded by the charities,” he said. He added: “If the charities want their collectors to accept all the used clothing and textiles that they cannot sell in their shops, it may be that it is now time to renegotiate the prices to a more sustainable level so that their collectors can continue to accept all grades.

Sp r i n g Ci t y t ex t i l er SSM Industries building a $3 million, job-creating expansion Spring City, Tenn : A local textile manufacturer is building a $3 million, jobcreating expansion, indicative of a rebound in an industry that hemorrhaged more than half its area jobs in the past 10 years. SSM Industries, a flame-resistant fabric manufacturer, will add 13 jobs to the Spring City area by the end of the year and hopes to grow that number to 25 as its factory expansion swings into full production mode. “We’ve had lean times like anybody else, but now we’re doing well. That’s why we’re expanding,” said Phil Chandler, SSM’s vice president for development. “We’re reinvesting for the future.”

Betty Godsey and Lennie Cecil operate machines making fire-resistant Kevlar simplex material at the SSM Industries Inc. plant in Spring City, Tenn. For the past decade, that future has looked grim for textile manufacturers across Tennessee and Georgia. Georgia shed more than 58 percent of the industry’s jobs, down to 18,856 from 45,513, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. The industry in Tennessee also was hit by major losses, dropping nearly 62 percent to 3,637 jobs from 9,469 10 years earlier. But so far this year, the textile industry appears to be turning around. Jobs are up 2.5 percent nationally, to 123,000 this June from 120,000 last June, according to the National Council of Textile Organizations, a trend the group expects will continue. “What you’ll probably see in the next 10 years is a slow but steady increase in textile jobs, and I think it’s in part because costs are increasing in Asia,” said NCTO President Cass Johnson. “That’s making U.S. textiles more effective, but also because U.S. textile mills have pivoted and are now focusing on the high-tech and value-added products.” Rossville textile manufacturer Southern Industrial Fabrics has focused on NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 69

such products for years, always trying to stay one step ahead of low-cost Asian goods. “We do a little bit of everything, and what we did last year, we’re probably not doing this year,” said company president Phillip Bryan. SIF produces filtration, rubber, kevlar, and eco-friendly fabrics with a variety of applications such as bags, floor matts and, like SSM, flame resistant shirts for utility workers. SSM is expanding to speed up production of the value-added products that are its specialty. Now, the company is dependent on yarn suppliers’ varying costs and production and shipping schedules. This expansion will break that chain, creating an in-house yarn production center. “This allows us to go vertical,” Chandler said. “It will allow us to control our cost, but more importantly it’ll let us control our quality.” Quality is vital when dealing with military contracts, he said. SSM’s campus includes its own military-certified testing lab to make sure everything

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES produced is up to snuff. “You’re protecting people, so we take it very serious,” Chandler said. Military contracts have been a vital part of the domestic textile business since nearly all clothing and footwear production moved from the U.S. overseas in the 1970s and 1980s. Thanks to a law known as the Berry Amendment, the Department of Defense is required to buy clothes, uniforms, footwear and other fabrics domestically, vaulting the military to one of the largest purchaser of domestic textiles. “By and large, whatever is made here is probably made for the military,” said Scott Elmore, spokesman for the American Apparel and Footwear Association. For a company like SSM, the Berry rule is the gas keeping the factory running. About 65 percent of the company’s textile orders come from finished product manufacturers that won government contracts. SSM’s decades of experience with flame-resistant fabrics such as Kevlar and Nomex have helped it remain relevant not only with military contractors, but in a variety of other markets such as auto racing, utility and industrial workers. Those markets are enough to keep company operators busy. SSM employs 90 workers and managers and is usually running its machines 24 hours a day five days a week producing the materials for fighter pilot gloves, tank driver helmet liners and NASCAR jumpsuits. With that foundation, SSM has seen consistent, growing revenue over the past few years, allowing it to expand domestically and, they hope, internationally. “There’s hundreds of uses for what we produce,” Chandler said. “We’re always

looking for the next customer base.” As other textile companies across the country head down the same path as SSM and if growth continues as it has this year, Johnson and the trade group expect the textile industry to bounce back, though not to the same levels as a decade ago. “The industry has gotten smaller, but I think it’s gotten smarter,” Johnson said. “People who thought the industry was going to go away were clearly wrong.”

Gl o b al Gl as s Fi b er s Market to Exceed 8.5 Million Tons by 2017, A c c o r d i n g t o a New Report by Global Industry Analysts, Inc. GIA announces the release of a comprehensive global report on the Glass Fibers markets. The global market for glass fibers is projected to exceed 8.5 million tons by the year 2017, driven by recovery in the global economy and improving prospects in various end-use markets, specifically construction and automotive. Technological advancements and material improvements, and enormous potential in Asia countries, particularly China and India, are likely to foster further growth in the glass fiber market. San Jose, California : Glass fiber has contributed significantly to facilitating advancements in construction and automotive applications.The product's versatile performance and low cost has made it a leading reinforcement fiber in the manufacture of plastic products. With the recession affecting all sectors of the industry, the demand for glass fiber witnessed a downward slide, particularly in North America and Europe. However, the industry is registering steady rise in demand as the global economy moves towards complete recovery. Asia-Pacific is the driving force for the glass fiber market, and NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 70

is expected to benefit immensely from the construction boom in developing countries. The United States, Europe and AsiaPacific dominate the global glass fiber market, as stated by the new market research report on Glass Fibers. China has emerged as a force to reckon with in the global glass fiber industry, capturing more than 50% of the worldwide production capacity. An expanding domestic market and surging exports are contributing to robust growth of glass fiber market in China. While the rise in the domestic market has been driven by consistently high GDP growth during the last decade, the export market has surged due to lower prices of Chinese glass fiber as compared to the fiber produced in the developed countries such as the US and Europe. Glass wool's superior sound absorption and thermal conductivity properties allows its extensive use in the construction industry. The insulationgrade glass fiber or glass wool market is bolstered by the rapid growth in construction activities in developing regions, growing concerns about the environment and higher usage of insulation material per unit built area. The segment growth is largely attributed to the increasing demand for lightweight, durable and non-corrosive components. Government efforts to reduce energy consumption in the construction industry are expected to provide a fillip to the glass wool market. In addition to the construction sector, the segment is witnessing sustained demand from basic as well as high-tech industries such as electronics, automotive, construction, aircraft, and construction, among others. Textile glass fibers are versatile, corrosion-resistant and low-cost materials that are used in both reinforced and non-reinforced applications. Expanding use of textile glass fibers in electronic and electrical, and telecommunication sectors offers growth opportunities for the glass fiber market participants. In the US, the demand for textile glass

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES fibers is expected to grow at a steady rate led by emerging opportunities in the field of reinforced plastics, as well as asphalt construction products such as shingles. However, growth in the US market is limited due to the growing maturity of various end-use applications and the rising threat of low-cost imports from Asian countries specifically China. Global glass fiber market is characterized by high degree of consolidation with the six leading players accounting for about 70% of the industry's output. Competition is particularly tough in the glass wool insulation fiber segment owing to the products' commodity characteristic and extremely limited scope of product differentiation. Select players profiled in the report include Advanced Glassfiber Yarns LLC, China Fiberglass Company Limited, Guardian Fiberglass Inc., Johns Manville Corporation, Knauf, Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd., Owens Corning Inc., PPG Industries Inc., Taishan Fiberglass Inc., and Uralita Group. The research report titled "Glass Fibers: A Global Strategic Business Report" announced by Global Industry Analysts Inc., provides a strategic review of the industry, key market trends, recent product launches, strategic corporate initiatives, and profiles of key market participants. The report provides annual sales estimates and projections by the following geographic markets - US, Canada, Japan, Europe, Asia-Pacific, Middle East, and Latin America. Key product segments analyzed include Glass Wool and Textile Glass Fiber. End-use segments analyzed include Glass Wool (Housing Construction, Commercial /Industrial/ Infrastructural, Industrial/Commercial Equipment, and Others) and Textile Glass Fibers (Construction, Automotive, Industrial/Commercial Equipment, Marine, Consumer Goods, Paper & Fabrics, and Others). About Global Industry Analysts, Inc. Global Industry Analysts, Inc., (GIA)

Fibreglass Scrim (Made in China) - It can mostly resist the corrosion of high alkali substance of common portland cement.

Glass Fibre Reinforced Plastic Tube (FOB : US $ 300 - 800/metre) is a leading publisher of off-the-shelf market research. Founded in 1987, the company currently employs over 800 people worldwide. Annually, GIA publishes more than 1300 full-scale research reports and analyzes 40,000+ market and technology trends while monitoring more than 126,000 Companies worldwide. Serving over 9500 clients in 27 countries, GIA is recognized today, as one of the world's largest and reputed market research firms. Global Industry Analysts, Inc. Telephone: 408-528-9966 Fax: 408-528-9977 Email: press(at)StrategyR(dot)com Web Site: www.StrategyR.com/ NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 71

NEWS BRIEFS 'Sportech' - Centre of Excellence (COE) to be set up at ICT (Formerly, UDCT), Mumbai Sportech - Centre of Excellence awarded to Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai. The highly coveted Centre of Excellence (COE) under the Technology Mission of Technical Textile (TMTT) in Sportech has been awarded to the Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga, Mumbai – 400 019. The announcement to this extent was made on August 25, 2011, by the Honourable Minister of Textiles, Shri Anand Sharma on the inaugural function of the event Technotex 2011 held between August 25 – 27, 2011, at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai. In this venture the major collaborators of ICT are Kemrock Industries and Expor ts Limited, Kusumgar Corporates Private Limited and Reliance Industries Limited. An Expression of Interest (EoI) has been extended by JCT, Textiles Committee, Textile Association of India and Texanlab and they have agreed to support in every possible way with all their branches in spreading awareness and training in Technical Textiles to make this COE a grand success. Institute of Chemical Technology (formerly known as UDCT), one of the most prestigious Institutes in the country is headed by Prof. G. D. Yadav, Vice-Chancellor of the Institute who has been spearheading the campaign for excellence with infrastructure build up on par with other national institutes of repute. It has seven major chemical technologies, such as Textiles, Dyestuffs, Oils, Plastics,

Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai Paints, Pharma and Food. It has other major courses such as Chemical Engineering, Pharmacy, Bio-Process Technology, Chemistry, Physics, Mathematics and General Engineering. A survey was published by Professor Jude Sommerfeld of Georgia Tech; USA showing that the ICT is Number One Institute in India far ahead of several others including IITs, and it is ranked 4th in the world in Chemical Engineering. This rank has been maintained since 1970s.The institute has the most effective relationship with industry. Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology is one of the founding departments of the Institute started at the very beginning, in the year 1933, to fulfill the fundamental and technological demands of the ever flourishing Textile Industry. This department is now headed by Prof. R. V Adivarekar. The other faculty members of this department are Prof. S.R Shukla (also the Registrar of the Institute), Prof M. D Teli (also the Dean, Students Affairs and HRD of the Institute), Dr. Usha Syed, Dr. Sujata Pariti and Mr. R. D Kale. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 72

The Vision of this Department is to be the world class centre of excellence in teaching and in research, in the chemical processing of fibres, textiles, apparels and the key areas of technical textiles with ecological, social and ethical responsibilities; meeting the crucial needs of trained manpower and technological solutions of Indian textile industry. The Head of Department, Prof R. V Adivarekar, in his message said that, “The Textile Department, over decades has proved to be the most preferred destination for aspiring textile technologists from across the country. The department consistently attracts the finest faculty and the best of students for its Undergraduate, Postgraduate and Doctoral programmes. In this new era of globalization, industries plan to leverage their competitive advantage for sustainable growth leading to quantum leaps in the economic development of the nation. Keeping this in focus, we at Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), since inception (1933), nurture the budding technologists and enlighten potential leaders, shaped by

NEWS BRIEFS

Prof R.V Adivarekar, HOD - Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, ICT its Vision, Mission and Values.The ICT thanks the Ministry of Textiles for the honour bestowed on us. With the tradition of Institute working hand-inhand with the Industry and Research Associations, we assure our sincere efforts to make this COE in Sportech a COE with distinction”. The graduate (B. Tech.) and post graduate courses of M. Tech. and Ph.D. (Tech.) attract a large number of students and so far more than 2250 graduates and 500 postgraduates have passed out from this Department. The faculty of the Department has good interaction with the industry. The department has been recognized as Centre of Advanced studies in “Physicochemical aspects of Textile, Fibres, Polymers and Dyes” presently in Phase VII, since 1963. The department also played an important role in evaluating TUFS under Ministry of Textiles, GOI. The faculty is engaged in high quality fundamental as well as applied research and they have got over 1000 publications in Indian and International journals as well as reputed fellowships to the credit from recognized institutions in India and abroad. The Office of the Textile Commissioner is the apex government body facilitating the holistic growth of India‘s diversified and broad based textile industry. Technical Textiles is expected to be a booming opportu-

nity for developing economies in Asia both from a production perspective as well as consumption opportunities in a technologically e v o l v i n g economy.Thus, Technical textiles holds significant potential in India and the government has taken steps to promote this industry by the establishment of COEs in the country. The Sportech segment comprises of technical textile products used in sports and leisure. The technical textile products covered under Sportech are; Sports Composites, Artificial turf, Parachute Fabrics, Ballooning fabrics, Sail cloth, Sleeping bags, Sport nets, Sport shoes components, Tents and Swimwear. This Sportech segment of technical textiles can generate employment opportunities, international market, import substitutions, high unit value realization in sportswear and also develop sporting potential of our country in the global arena. Further, the Expert Committee’s Report and Baseline survey on Technical Textile Industry reveal that there is scope to develop products which are 100% imported and having high unit value realization. There exists opportunity for the existing textile manufacturers to diversify into Sportech area and grow the business. The ICT believes that it will deliver the set objectives and make the country proud. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 73

N.G.O.

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Even now if you have doubt, Call us...

One Day Seminar On Protective Agrotextile by SASMIRA The Synthetic and Art Silk Mills’ Research Association, Mumbai is the Centre Of Excellence (COE) For Agrotextiles. One of the major activity under the COE is dissemination of

NEWS BRIEFS knowledge to the consumers, manufacturers and exporters, etc. One such activity is spreading knowledge through Seminars. SASMIRA has so far conducted eight such events at various levels for the benefit of agriculturists, textile manufacturers and end users. The Seminar on “Protective Agrotextiles – Advantages & Future Prospects” will be held on Monday, 19th September 2011 at University of Agricultural Sciences Auditorium, Dharwad jointly by SASMIRA and The Office of the Textile Commissioner. It is being held in association with University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad. The Programme will bring together Government Officials both from the Ministry of Agriculture and Ministry of Textiles along with research scientists from Textiles and Agriculture field and also the officials from the funding agency like NABARD and the success stories of few enlightened users to highlight the importance of protective agrotextiles. The detailed programme shall be as per the following schedule : Date : Monday, September 19, 2011 Venue : New Auditorium, UAS, Dharwad 09.00 A.M. – 9.30 A.M. Registration 9.30 A.M. – 10.45 A.M. Inauguration Welcome & Lighting of Lamp Welcome Address Dr. Shailaja D. Naik, Professor, UAS, Dharwad Concept Address (Textiles) Shri M.H. Doshi, President, SASMIRA Concept Address (Agriculture) Dr. Rama K. Naik, Dean (Home Science), UAS, Dharwad Address by Guest of Honour Dr. R. R. Hanchinal, Hon’ble Vice Chancellor, UAS, Dharwad

Inaugural Address by Shri A. B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner, O/o TXC, Mumbai Vote of Thanks by Shri U. K. Gangopadhyay, Executive Director, SASMIRA HIGH TEA 10.45 A.M. – 11.00 A.M. Technical Session – I : Global and Domestic Scenario of Agrotextiles 11.00 – 11.30 A.M. Government Incentives for Agrotextiles, O/o TXC, Mumbai 11.30 – 11.50 A.M. Domestic Scenario of Agriculture and Government Policy Initiatives Dr. H. S. Vijayakumar, Registrar, UAS, Dharwad 11.50 – 12.10 P.M. Incentives and Loan Schemes from Banks Shri Mahadev, Manager NABARD, Dharwad 12.10 – 12.30 P.M. SASMIRA’s Centre of Excellence for Agrotextiles – An Eye Opener Dr. Rekha R., SASMIRA 12.30 – 1.00 P.M. Role of Technical Textiles in Agriculture Prof. Shailaja D. Naik, UAS, Dharwad

Lunch 1.00-2.00pm Technical Session – II : Agrotextile Products and Their Advantages 2.00 – 2.20 P.M. Protective Structures for Effective Cultivation of Flowers & Vegetables Dr. A. A. Patil, Special Officer (Hi-tech), Hi-tech Horticulture Unit, UAS, Dharwad 2.20 – 2.50 P.M. Use of Plastics in Agriculture/Horticulture Dr. Krishna Manohar, Prof. and Head (Hort), PFDC, GKVK, Bangalore 2.50 – 3.15 P.M. Case study-I: Agrotextiles in Anthurium Cultivation Shri Thakur, Belgaum 3.15 – 3.30 P.M. Case study-II: Shri Amrut Inamdar, Belgaum 3.30 – 4.00 P.M. Tea Break : 4.00 – 4.30 P.M. Plenary Session : Shri U. K. Gangopadhyay Dr. L. Krishna Naik Dr. Shailaja Naik Dr. Krishna Manohar

Six textile dyeing factories sealed Erode : The revenue and Pollution Control Board (PCB) has sealed the six unlicensed textile dyeing factories in Erode. District Collector of Erode Mr. C Kamaraj acted on the complaint given by the farmers. The team of higher officials went on a raid to the suspected areas of Periyasemur, Choolai and Periya Agraharam and found that tanners, textile dyers were discharging the effluents into drains. Finally, the inspections revealed that six factories were doing so and were sealed as the textile dyeing factories were unlicensed. For quite some time now, residents have been protesting against the discharge of huge amounts of untreated, toxic effluents on the open ground even by the ‘licensed' units in Sipcot premises in Perundurai in Erode district. They alleged that many units were not treating the effluents either through the common effluent treatment plant or their own treatment plants located in the Sipcot premises. Instead, they kept on discharging in the open, which had affected the ground water quality in many villages including Periya Vettuvampalayam, Ingur and Kambuliyampatti. These villages were located very close to the Sipcot premises.

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NEWS BRIEFS Govt receives 55 proposals for integrated textile parks The government today said it has received 55 proposals for establishing integrated textiles parks in various parts of the country. "So far, 55 proposals have been received for establishing new integrated textile parks," Textiles Minister Anand Sharma said in a written reply to the Rajya Sabha. The government has approved a budgetary allocation of Rs 400 crore for establishment of new textiles parks under the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP), he added. At present, there are 40 textiles parks in various states, including Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, West Bengal, Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh. The scheme is demand-driven and investors decide the level of investment based on commercial viability, the minister said. The government finances 40% of the cost of common facilities and infrastructure, up to a limit of Rs 40 crore, under the scheme. To encourage the production of special yarn and silk, two silk parks have been sanctioned at the Doddabalapur Integrated Textile Park and Kanchipuram AACM Handloom Silk Park, Sharma said.

An effect cannot occur before its cause.

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA), MUMBAI UNIT Organises

Half Day Seminar on INNOVATION IN TEXTILE PROCESSING Date : Thursday, 13th October 2011 Time : 03.00 p.m. to 08.00 p.m. (Followed by Cocktail & Dinner) Venue : Dombivli Gymkhana, P-9, MIDC, Phase-I, Dombivli (E). One of the leading Textile Processing Cluster is the territory covering Dombivli, Badlapur, Ambernath, Ulhasnagar & New Mumbai. It is engaged in processing 100% Cotton i.e. Woven, Knits to larger extent in addition to Polyester/Cellulosic blended fabric & Cotton, Viscose, Polyester yarn. Dress Material, Sarees and Processed Goods for Garments are major varieties. It carries out toll manufacturing for many major textile companies. Dyeing & Printing both actively are being carried in the processing. This cluster caters mainly to the domestic markets & certain extent to overseas market. Although there is significant development in this cluster, it is the need of the hour that the processors should update in the field of infrastructure, innovation in processes, environment, pollution control, safety & modernization to enable them to meet the challenges in domestic as well as global markets. Technological Upgradation for better quality and competitiveness is the present need of this cluster. Keeping in view these requirements, The Textile Association (India), Mumbai unit has planned a half-day seminar at Dombivli. The Seminar will cover the practical applications as well as the new developments in the same fields. Eminent industrialists, reputed professionals and renowned experts from diverse fields of textiles have been invited to address the gathering. The TAI is expecting about 125 participants to attend this seminar. Chief Guest : Mr. S. Balaraju, Joint Textile Commissioner, MoT, Govt. of India, Topics & Speakers Cotton / Polyester Blends - Exhaust Dyeing – Changing Market Trends Mr. Elias Mohammad, Product Manager, Colourtex Ltd. Mr. Ranganath, Regional Manager, Colourtex Ltd. Low Temperature Bleaching – The New Trend Mr. Edward Menezes, Director, Rossari Biotech Ltd. Challenges and Developments in Reactive dyeing of Cotton Dr. Ashok Athalye, GM – Technical Service, Atul Limited-Colors Division Pollution Control Systems for Textile Processing Industries - Conserving Natural Resources Mr. Anand Apte, Managing Director, West Encare (India) Pvt. Ltd. Innovative Printing Styles on 100% Cotton & Blended Fabrics Mr. Sateesh Gore, Director, Electron Group Panel Discussion : “ Prospects of Cluster Upgradation” Moderator : Dr. G. S. Nadiger, Research Advisor, BTRA (Open interactive session wherein expert panel answers participants’ queries )

Delegate Fees : Members of TAI: Rs. 300 /- Non Members: Rs. 500 /For more information please contact : Hon. Secretary The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit (www.textileassociationindia.com) Amar Villa, B/h Villa Diana, Flat No. 3, 3rd Floor, 86 College Lane, Off Gokhale Rd, Nr. Portuguese Church/Maher Hall, Dadar (W), Mumbai-28 Tel: 022- 2432 8044 / 2430 7702 Fax: 91-22-2430 7708 E-mail: taimu@mtnl.net.in / taimu@bom3.vsnl.net.in / taimumbaiunit@gamil.com

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 75

NEWS BRIEFS Tirupur : Why India's largest textile exports hub is dying? Dressed in a loincloth, a frail-looking 84-year-old A P Kandaswamy, who is a farmer and also the president of the Noyyal River Ayacutdars Protection Association, greets us with a glass of water from his well. "Don't drink it. Just taste it," he warns. "Drinking can be harmful for your health." Kandaswamy takes us to his farm and shows us what remains of it. "I had 1,400 coconut trees, now none remain," he says. "There are some with fruits, but we don't sell them, as they can be harmful for anyone who consumes them," he adds. This summarises the state of affairs in Tirupur - a town near Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu that accounts for almost 80 per cent of all the cotton knitwear exports from India. Once a bustling place with great ambitions, Tirupur is facing a devastating reversal of fortunes because of the deadly industrial effluent that its industries have emptied into the ground and rivers nearby and the resulting contempt order that Kandaswamy filed in the Chennai high court some time ago. This order has recently forced the industry to shut down. Dyeing in Tirupur has been the lifeblood of much of the community since the 1970s. It has also spelt death. "Only I live here. My children have all moved to Erode - because of the water, they had pregnancy related complications. Even the cattle are unable to reproduce," says Poontai. Here, the river Noyyal, which emerges from the Vellingiri hills in the Western Ghat and has a basin of 180 kms, can easily be mistaken for a drain.

"The colour of the river is green. If the water was clean it would have been red," say farmers. The Chennai court order has meant the demise of a once-booming business in knitwear. As an impact of the closure, the first-quarter knitwear exports have declined by Rs 1,200 crore (Rs 12 billion) this year alone and exNCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 76

porters expect a loss of Rs 4,000 crore (Rs 40 billion) for the year. According to some estimates, the industry is bleeding Rs 10 crore (Rs 100 million) every day. "At least 45,000 workers, who were working in these industries, have been left with no work and have returned to their villages," says S Nagaraj, president of the

NEWS BRIEFS Tiruppur Dyeing Association. Ghost town The impact is more than visible on the streets of Tirupur.In December last year, traffic was reduced to a crawl on its narrow roads. Now, however, they have a deserted look about them. "I can zip through the town now," says Hariharan, who operates a taxi service. "After January, there has been no traffic on the streets," he adds. Naturally, anyone who has benefited from Tiruppur's past boom has been hit badly, especially the likes of hotel owners and mobile-phone sellers. According to Ashok Kumar, district head, Tirupur Mobile Phone Services Association, in the last four months alone around 30,000 connections have been disconnected. "Till January, there were about 2,500 shops here involved in recharge, with an average collection of Rs 2.5-3 lakh (Rs 250,000-300,000) a day.This has now come down to Rs 1-1.5 lakh (Rs 100,000-150,000)," says Kumar. The rise of a boom town Two decades ago, Tirupur was relatively unknown.Veterans here say the shift towards it began after numerous strikes in Kolkata during the 70s -then, the dyeing-hub of India -- forced industry to look for an alternative place. Since Tiruppur was already involved in bleaching, and it was close to Coimbatore, dyeing units began to emerge. However, a real change in the town's for tunes occurred after liberalisation in the 1990s. Then, total exports from the town were Rs 289.85 crore (Rs billion), rising to Rs 12,500 crore (Rs billion) last year. In 1996, however, seeds of the long fight between the industry and the area's farmers were sown when the Taluk Noyyal Canal agriculturists filed a petition in the Madras High Court to

put a stop to dyeing companies releasing effluents into the river. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 77

NEWS BRIEFS The matter came to an end after the dyeing companies agreed to take steps to reduce the release of effluents. However, the steps taken by the units failed to impress the agriculturists and they approached the court again.This time, in 2006, the high court laid down conditions and made it mandatory for units to follow a policy of 'zero-liquid discharge'. That didn't happen and a contempt petition was ultimately filed by the farmers. On January 28, the court ordered closure of all dyeing and bleaching units. Later, in March, the court also refused to provide further time for these units to achieve zero-liquid discharge. At that point, the die for the survival of Tiruppur had been cast. Struggle to survive For Tirupur's garment manufacturers, the court order is the final blow in a series of recent setbacks. "We have not completely emerged from the 2007 recession and now, because of the dyeing units being forced to close, our margins have further shrunk by 10-15 per cent," says a garment manufacturer who has an annual turnover of Rs 30 crore (Rs 300 million). The reason? "We are forced to send our garments to other places for getting them dyed," says P Nataraj, managing director of KPR Mills. "We have lost 30 per cent of our business. It is very difficult to sustain this mode of working in the long run. It is not feasible.The government and the industry have to find a permanent solution," he adds. Solutions One of the solutions being floated is the construction of the Marine Discharge Plant, which would transfer effluents from all the bleaching, dyeing and processing units of the state through a common pipe in the sea. The Thirteenth Finance Commission had also allocated an amount of Rs

200 crore (Rs 2 billion) for this project. As of now, no work has started on this project. On August 2, the Tamil Nadu government also gave a Rs 200-crore (Rs 2billion) loan to the affected units on zero interest. In addition, the government would also pay a Rs 18-crore (Rs 180-million) compensation to farmers who were affected by the pollution. Plus, a high-level committee under the textile ministry, headed by the Textile Secretary Rita Menon is also meeting on August 24 to take stock of the situation. However, in spite of the NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 78

government's efforts, manufacturers are still sceptical. "Till now the government has failed to perform its role properly," says Raja Shanmugham, managing partner at Warsaw International. If this is indeed true, then these manufacturers have only one entity they can rely on -- themselves. "There are technologies available, which can be adopted by the dyeing units in Tirupur," says J Thulasidharan, chairman, Southern India Mills' Association (SIMA). However, manufacturers don't want to

NEWS BRIEFS use them as they have an effect on profits. Flight to foreign shores Not surprisingly, other countries are taking over the shortfall created by the Tiruppur impasse. "Tiruppur's loss is India's loss," says A Sakthivel, president of the Tiruppur Exporters Association. "The confidence of our buyers is falling as we are unable to complete the orders on time. Most of the international buyers are moving towards China and Bangladesh," he adds. Meanwhile, as a temporary solution, manufacturers are sending their garments to places such as Ludhiana, Kolkata, Surat and Mysore for dyeing. However, they say that this has led to a 15-20 per cent increase in the cost of manufacturing, and a sharp drop in demand. A more permanent shift to alternative places has also already begun. "Sima has set up a company called Sima Textile Processing Park, which has set-up an industrial park in Cuddalore," says J Thulasidharan, chairman, Sima. "So far, ten units form Tiruppur have come up there," he adds. Farmers allege that the manufacturers of death haven't yet completely stopped operations. "In spite of the Court order, there are still some units that continue to dye. Last week, a team from Chennai visited and sealed few units after they found that they were still dyeing," says Kandaswamy. Still, it is only a matter of time before these, too, are shut down, leaving the nation to simultaneously cheer the dismally few successful interventions to protect and preserve the environment and human lives, while lamenting the death of an industry with much financial promise. (Courtesy : BS) Farmers living alongside River Noyyal are not prepared for any compromise with dyers other than ensuring of zero liquid discharge (ZLD).........................>>>

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 79

NEWS BRIEFS Cloth Bags an Alternative to Polythene

to address the financial, environmental and textiles related issues of the Tirupur textiles Industry.

The Government of India has already taken various initiatives through National Jute Board (NJB) under Ministry of Textiles for establishing the supply chain for increase in production of jute carry and shopping bags in both organized and decentralized sector.To create awareness and to popularize use of low cost jute bags in place of plastic bags, National Jute Board organizes promotion events and awareness programmes in those States where plastic bags have been banned by the respective State Governments. National Jute Board also ties up retail activitie in different States to make available the supply of jute bags to customers.

National Textiles Research Council

This was stated by Smt. Panabakka Lakshmi, Minister of State in the Ministry of Textiles in written reply to a question in the Rajya Sabha. Other information given by her in the Rajya Sabha include the following.

Closer of Tirupur Textile Units In pursuance of the orders of Madras High Court, water and power supply to 18 CETPs with 754 dyeing and bleaching units and 68 IETPs was disconnected as they did not fulfil zero liquid discharge conditions for effluent treatment. Tirupur Exporters Association has represented to Government that export revenues of Rs. 1100 crore were lost and job losses of nearly 100,000 workers has taken place, due to closure of Dyeing units in Tirupur. The Government in consultation with the Government of Tamil Nadu has constituted a 12 member High Level Inter Ministerial Committee under the Chairpersonship of Secretary (Textiles)

There is no proposal for setting up of a National Textiles Research council. Research & Development (R&D) policy provides financial support for industrial as well as generic research projects mainly to the Textile Research Associations (TRAs). The Focus areas for research include product development, cost reduction in the entire manufacturing chain including in utilities conservation, eco-friendly technologies, development of technical textiles including test methods and test equipments, application of information technology, application of biotechnology, R&D in knitting and garment technology, application of nanotechnology and plasma science etc. These TRAs are supported through plan and non-plan allocation. In addition, Government has set up a high level committee under the Chairmanship of Secretary (Textiles) to address techno-economic solutions to the environmental issues of Tirupur Textiles Industry.

Restructuring Textile Policy Government in the 11th Five Year Plan has restructured the Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFs), the Scheme for Integrated Textiles Park (SITP) and formulated the National Fiber Policy. Government has enhanced allocation under restructuredTUFs from Rs.8000 crores to Rs. 15404 crores to catalyze investments in hitherto low investment areas like processing, weaving, knitting, technical textiles and skill centres. Under the SITP scheme, Rs. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 80

400 crores allocation were made for sanction of new Integrated Textiles Parks. The National Fiber Policy has been formulated as a fiber neutral policy in a decadal perspective to attract to 1.76 lakh crores of investment in the next decade. Ministry of Textiles has held road shows in the year 2009-10 in several countries to attract Foreign Direct Investment in Textile sector. The road shows promoted business to business relations to enhance FDI in the Textiles sector in India. Investments on Textiles sectors are in automatic route.

Handloom Units Facing Threat of Closure As per Handloom Census 2009-10, there are 27,85,227 number of handloom units in the country. There is no report that a large number of handloom units are facing threat of closure. However, the handloom sector is facing stiff competition from power loom and mechanised sector. The Government of India, Ministry of Textiles, is constantly making concerted efforts for the well being of the handloom weavers. The Government of India is already implementing five Plan schemes through the Development Commissioner for Handlooms during the Eleventh Plan, keeping in mind the welfare requirements, for providing need based interventions for holistic and sustainable development of the handloom sector. Two of these schemes are implemented through the State Governments. The details of these five schemes are given below: 1. Integrated Handloom Development Scheme provides need based inputs to clusters of 300500 handlooms or Groups of 10 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 100 weavers for making them self sustainable by providing them financial assistance for margin money, new looms and accesso-

NEWS BRIEFS ries, skill upgradation, marketing opportunities and for construction of work sheds etc. So far, 542 Cluster projects and 1789 Group Approach projects have been sanctioned during the Eleventh Five Year Plan. 2. Marketing and Export Promotion Scheme provides platform to the weavers and their organizations to participate in the domestic as well as international trade events and sell their products directly to the buyers. So far, 2527 marketing events have been sanctioned during the Eleventh Five Year Plan. 3. Handloom Weavers Comprehensive Welfare Scheme : This comprises of two separate schemes viz. the Health Insurance Scheme (HIS) for providing Health Insurance to the Handloom weavers and Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana (MGBBY) for providing Life Insurance Cover in case of natural/ accidental death, total/partial disability due to accident. Under Health Insurance Scheme, 16.11 lakh families of handloom weavers and workers were covered during the policy period of 2009-10. During the policy period 2010-11, 7.07 lakh weaversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; families have been covered so far out of the proposed 17.97 lakh families of handloom weavers and workers. Under MGBBY, 5.11 lakh handloom weavers were enrolled during 2009-10 and 5.21 lakh handloom weavers were enrolled during 2010-11.

G.C.Vikram Kumar (32), COO of Tif-f-labs School of Fashion, promoted by Tirupur Industrial Federation (TIF), has won a place in the Limca Book of Records for creating 1,000 designs in 50 hours in May this year. All designs - Ethnic & geometrical varieties - are in black & white shades and can be used for wide range of textile items including knitwear, home textiles and woven garments uniformly.

4. Mill Gate Price Scheme : This scheme makes available all types of yarn at Mill Gate Price to the eligible handloom agencies to facilitate regular supply of basic raw material to the handloom weavers and to optimize their employment potential. During the Eleventh Plan, so far, 3893.62 lakh kg of yarn valuing Rs. 3783.58 crore has been supplied to the handloom weavers under the Scheme. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 81

NEWS BRIEFS 5. Diversified Handloom Development Scheme : This scheme provides assistance for technological and skill-upgradation of weavers for design and product development through 25 Weaversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Service Centres and 05 Indian Institutes of Handloom Technology all over the country to improve the productivity and earnings of the handloom weavers. Under Integrated Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (IHCDS), 20 handloom clusters covering 5000 looms with project cost of Rs 2 crore each, sanctioned in 2006-07, are also under implementation. In addition to the above schemes, Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS) has been introduced in 2008-09 with an objective to empower handloom weavers and build their capacity to enhance competitiveness of their products in the domestic as well as global market in a sustainable and reliant manner. The scheme covers clearly identifiable geographical locations with at least 25,000 looms in which Government of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s financial support would be up to Rs.70 crore. Four such Mega Handloom Clusters have been sanctioned so far at Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Sivasagar (Assam), Virudhunagar (Tamilnadu) and Murshidabad (West Bengal).

Role of NIFT in Improving Market Prospects for Handloom Sector National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) is an educational institute imparting knowledge to the students in the fields of Design, Management and Technology. It inter alia, undertakes projects from Government and non Govt. organizations that seek assistance from NIFT in the field of design, capacity building, technological upgradation and marketing. It also undertakes projects with an objective to impart knowledge to artisans re-

Table I : Production of cotton yarn, cotton fabrics, blended fabrics and 100% Non cotton fabrics Items

Unit

2008-09

2009-10

2010-11 (Prov)

Cotton yarn

Mn. Kg.

2896

3079

3469

Cotton cloth

Mn. Sq. mtr

26898

28914

31204

Blended cloth

Mn. Sq. mtr

6766

7767

8135

100% Non cotton cloth

Mn. Sq. mtr

20534

22840

21657

Fabrics (excluding khadi, wool & silk)

Mn. Sq. mtr

54198

59521

60996

Source:Textile Commissioner lated to crafts, market intelligence and apprise them of new and latest trends resulting in their improved marketing prospects as a part of cluster activity. NIFT is implementing 11 projects sanctioned by Office of Development Commissioner (Handloom) for providing inputs on various aspects of handlooms. For this purpose, the Office of Development Commissioner (Handloom) has released Rs.04.21 crores to NIFT across its different Centres in India. NIFT is not involved in production or marketing of handlooms. The Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act, 1999 provides legal protection to Geo-

graphical Indications of goods etc. and prevents their unauthorized use by others.

Tec h n o l o g y Mi s s i o n for Technical Textile The Government has already launched a Technology Mission on Technical Textiles (TMTT) for a period of five years (from 2010-11 to 2014-15) with a fund outlay of Rs. 200 crore. The Scheme has two Mini-Missions. Mini Mission-I is for standardization, creating common testing facilities, indigenous development of prototypes and Resource Centres with I.T infrastructure in eight Centres of Excellence (COE). Mini Mission-II focuses on support for domestic and export market development of Technical Textiles

ATTENTION TEXTILE MANUFACTURERS/ PROCESSORS & EXPORTERS Your window to the COMPLETE solution to all processing problems, testing needs & NEW PROJECTS. Most reliable results. Full confidentiality & total perfection assured. Jyoti Laboratories & Consultancy Services A-303, Ghantakaran Market, Near New Cloth Market, Ahmedabad-380 001. India Ph : 22142128 (R) 27485502 Mobile : 9924085303 NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 82

NEWS BRIEFS through assistance for business startups; contract research; assistance for buyer seller meets and participation in international exhibitions/seminars for Technical Textiles. The production of cotton yarn, cotton fabrics, blended fabrics and 100% Non cotton fabrics during the last 3 years is given in the Table I. In order to increase the share of Indian clothes in the world market and to enhance capacity of man-made fibre, the government has launched various schemes/measures like Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) and Common Compliance Code. To encourage Foreign Direct Investment in Technical Textiles, under the Technology Mission on Technical Textiles (TMTT), empanelled associations/ institutes/ COEs will be eligible for a service fee of 3% of the project cost for FDI projects on successful completion of the projects in Medium, Small and Micro Enterprises sector.

Embee : One-stop Textile Shop for Printing, Processing & Finishing The dawn of the T-Mall (â&#x20AC;Ś. a mall for textile mills) - Machines, Spares & Accessories Everyday, textile mill owners end up spending a valuable part of their time finding a reliable solution to their everyday needs for purchasing/finding proper source of materials. How cumbersome it is to spend half the day deciding what to purchase and where to find a source who can provide reliable solutions at good price. Especially when the production is halted due to some damaged part, mostly one ends up buying parts from the original supplier at an enormous pricetag although knowing that the value of it is much lesser. Do you trouble yourself with the

qualms of finding a reliable source for every small spare-part? Do you find the need of an entity that helps - recognizes defects in your manufacturing practice and helps you improvise the existing machinery or its performance and provides timely delivery, service and assurance? Embee invites you to be a member of its huge family that has solutions for many types of problems, and workcultures while for the rest it is eager to carve out a solution. The T-MALL (textile mall) â&#x20AC;Ś.. from Embee Finding a trusted source that can guarantee quickest delivery, reliable quality, at-site support till satisfactory results and best prices. Embee has a huge network having bases in NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 83

Ahmedabad, Surat, Mumbai, Delhi, Amritsar, Erode and Tirupur in India and in 20+ other countries where it supports 1000+ companies over the past six decades. Its extensive effort and support from its customers over generations, has helped grow Embee manufacture not just spare-parts but develop its own line of machines for printing industry. Your No.1 OEM source for textile machines, spares, chemicals & accessories. Embee provides solutions for material-handling, chemicals, machines, spares and chemical plants. Material Handling Embee manufactures all textile material handling equipments from move-

NEWS BRIEFS ment material handling - Trolleys, pallet-trucks, stackers. It also craters to your material handling need like racks for squeegee blades and rods, screens, beams, trolleys, special, spares, and trolleys for better utilization of space & improved performance. Screens and Chemicals It has established a semi-automatic chemical manufacturing facility for providing consistent quality over decades and a research facility that helps improve performance and develop different variants to serve customers in all environments. Intensive research has Embee outperform competition by providing its customers with three different variants of photo-emulation that suits the customers' needs as per applications. Its semi –automatic controlled plant manufactures stripping, degreasing, ending gluing & removing, photo emulsions & sensitizers, embee also supplier engraving ink, lubricants & greasers chemical & special for stenter & other machines. It has a huge stock of screens for ready delivery in all sizes and repeats upto 1680mm. Spares : Spares for Stork, Zimmer, Reggiani, Ichinose, Monfor ts, Bruckner, Artos, Babcock, Benninger, E+L, apart from all indian makes, all under one-hood. It has been manufacturing spares for all machines of the textile printing, processing & finishing departments since more than six decades. Embee manufactures high-quality spares for stentering machines, printing machines, engraving machines, all processing, finishing and inspecting machines of all major manufacturers. Rolls : Rolls in M.S., S.S., or coated for machines with exact precision it also provides chilling rolls and guide bars. Embee rolls are used for guiding, drying, squeezing,

EMBEE WelcomesYou At : ITMA 2011, BARCELONA (22-29SEPTEMBER 2011) (Hall 7, Stand B-115) Machines : Many textile units have their entire floors painted in blue (official colour of Embee). Embee has scaled its machinery manufacturing practices in fields of color preparing-dispensing systems, rotary printing machines, engraving machines, inspection machines and all other processing and finishing machines besides chemical manufacturing and recovery plants. Systems and Plants : Embee has also ventured in manufacturing recovery plants for waste water, caustic, effluent, heat & minerals. It has successfully exported & installed such plants that have the shortest payback period. Embee guarantees its spares quality anywhere in the world. Contact details : Kamlesh Shah/Hardik Shah M. B. K.Textile Engineers Pvt. Ltd. 426 - G.I.D.C., Odhav, Opp.Telephone Exchange, Ahmedabad - 382 415. Phone : 91 79 22976411/22/33 Fax : 91 79 22748187 Email : info@embeeindia.com Website : www.embeeindia.com

Co t t o n yar n p r i c es continue to be a matter of concern for mills Coimbatore :Textile industry representatives discussed the trends, issues of concern, competitiveness of the industry in the global market, and stratNCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 84

egies to sustain growth at a two-day CEO Conference organised by the Southern India Mills' Association (SIMA) here. Inaugurating the conference B.K. Patodia, Chairman and Managing Director of GTN Group, said normally the textile mills do not have more than 15 to 20 days stock of yarn. However, when yarn exports were restricted last financial year, the mills were unable to export for over two months and stocks increased with the units. Though exports had resumed now, the mills were unable to realise better prices for yarn. Nearly 90 per cent of area under cotton was under Bt cotton in the country and yields had increased. Cotton production was expected to be 355 lakh bales in 2011-2012 and Indian production could reach even 400 lakh bales in a couple of years. The domestic mills should also look at timely and regular purchase so that prices did not shoot up, he said. Manickam Ramaswami, Deputy Chairman of Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council, said the Indian textile and clothing industry would be able to capture 40 per cent to 50 per cent of world yarn market and 20 per cent to 25 per cent of grey cloth market in three years. It required a stable Government policy, modular incentive package, and no quantitative restrictions on exports. The Commerce Ministry should encourage exports. Every segment of the textile sector should improve its competitive edge in the international market. The inter-dependence of various segments of the industry should be understood. Cotton should be available in surplus and farmers should be encouraged to cultivate cotton.The cotton development and research wings of the textile industrial associations should focus on developing cotton by-products. “Two cents per pound freight equalisation tax should be levied to compensate for higher freight charges to Indian mills,” he suggested.

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NEWS BRIEFS Textile expor ters flay m o v e t o o f f er m o r e sops to Bangladesh Mumbai : Textile and apparel exporters have opposed the government move to accord more concessions to apparel imports from Bangladesh, terming it "ad-hoc and arbitrary." Commerce and Industry Minister Anand Sharma hinted at allowing Bangladesh to export more duty-free garments into the country, ahead of Prime Minister Manmohan Singh's two-day visit to Dhaka. "In April, we had raised the (duty-free) quota from 8 million pieces to 10 million ... There is some more demand and the government will take a fair view on that," Sharma said in New Delhi. On whether Dhaka has demanded more duty-free garment exports, Sharma said, "It is true that many of the tariff lines in the textiles sector are being discussed." Both the Apparel Expor t Promotion Council (AEPC) and Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) said the move would spell "disaster" for the domestic industry in the absence of any reciprocal benefit for it. "This is really going to spell disaster for us because Bangladesh is our largest competitor in the export markets. Giving them free access to our market is going to put jobs of million workers and businesses of thousands of small and medium enterprises at stake," AEPC Chairman Premal Udani said. He said it has never happened in the past that such an accelerated process of concessions have been given to anyone. The domestic industry was willing to remove 14 items from the negative list. But an abrupt removal of 48 items, which comprise nearly 85 per cent of our imports from Bangladesh, will severely dent apparel manufacturing activity in the country, he added.

"The industry had agreed to an increase in the tariff rate quota (TRQ), but removal of items from the negative list will open floodgates of Bangladeshi imports. Also, the dutyfree imports of apparel translate to significant loss to the domestic fabric industry," Udani said.

Heavy rain causes major damage to cotton crop in Malwa region Chandigarh : Heavy rain over the past few days have caused extensive damage to cotton crop in the Malwa region, thus hitting the cotton growing farmers hard. As farmers had fetched high price of cotton last year, they had increased the area under cotton by 60,000 hectares this year. "We have got reports from the officials concerned that rain has caused a heavy damage to cotton crop in core belt," said a senior official of the Agriculture Department. He said accumulation of rainwater in most of the fields had proved harmful for the crop. Director of Agriculture Balwinder Singh Sidhu said: "We are really worried as the rain continues to lash the crop in the cotton belt for the past some days." The crop is at the picking stage at most of the places and owing to this reason, the situation is more alarming for the farm community, he added. The worst affected are the Muktsar, Bathinda, Fazilka districts and some areas in Abohar, where not only the cotton bolls have been affected, but also the standing plants have started withering due to water logging. According to preliminary estimates of the government, cotton crop over an area of about 90,000 hectares has been affected. Muktsar Deputy Commissioner Arshdeep Singh Thind said 400 pumps have been installed in the affected areas to drain out the accumulated water from the fields. NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 86

Preliminary estimates indicate that the cotton crop over an area of 74,000 hectares in Bathinda district, 10,700 hectares in Muktsar and 3,200 hectares in Fazilka. Farmers in these areas raised slogans against the authorities for inadequate steps to drain out the rain water from their fields. According to the Agriculture Department officials cotton crop on 25,000 hectares out of 35,000 hectares has been affected in Bathinda block. In Nathana, 10,000 hectares out of 15,000 hectares of cotton crop has been affected, 6,200 hectares out of 31,000 in Sangat, 25,000 out of 41,000 in Talwandi Sabo, 6,000 out of 20,000 in Maur, 1,500 out of 14,000 in Rampura, 1,000 out of 9,000 hectares cotton crop in Phul got affected. Cotton crop on about 10,700 hectares in Muktsar is under kneedeep water, especially in low lying areas, while 50 per cent cotton crop in about 500 hectares has affected adversely in about two dozens of villages of the Muktsar, Lambi and Gidderbaha areas. Chief Agriculture Officer Paramjit Singh said â&#x20AC;&#x153;The chief engineers of the Drainage and the Sewerage Departments have been ordered to camp in the affected areas to supervise drainage of the rain water and disposal of the sewerage water,â&#x20AC;? he added. Baldev Singh, a farmer from Abul Khurana village (Malout), said the cotton crop on about 250 acres in his village had been damaged. An assessment by a private textile industry estimates 8 to 10 per cent loss to the cotton crop due to incessant rains in the cotton belt of Punjab this season. According to the initial estimates in Ferozepur, around 10,000 hectares of standing paddy crop in areas of Makhu (3,480 hectares), Fazilka (4,268 hectares), Ferozpur (1,514 hectares) and Mamdot (622 hectares) has been affected during the recent floods and rains. Head of the Department of Agronomy, PAU, said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Of all the standing crops,

NEWS BRIEFS the rain is more harmful for cotton and maize. In case of cotton, the cotton balls are opening and the rain will harm its quality. In case of maize, the accumulated water in the field will damage the stalks.”

''Maj or t ex t i le s ho w ro o m s i n TN s el l i n g powerloom sarees violating Centre's guidelines'' alleges Co-optex Madurai : Co-optex has alleged that major textile showrooms in Tamil Nadu are violating Centre's guidelines by selling silk sarees woven from powerlooms and also using fake filigrees and said the matter would be brought to the notice of the Textile Ministry and state government. C Uma Shankar,Managing Director of Cooptex said the Handloom Reservation Act stipulated that silk saris should be woven only through handlooms, but most showrooms are selling sarees made in Powerloom. Textile shops sell saris that do not have handloom mark, marked for pure silk or both in many cases. Alleging that fake filigree was being used, he said genuine feligiree would contain 0.6 per cent gold and cost Rs 56.60 per gram.Textured filigree comprising copper would cost Rs 1.40 per gram and plastic jari would cost 40 paise per gram."Most saris sold in the showrooms contain textured jari or plastic Jari (filigiree)", he said. If showrooms violate norms, then action can be taken only by CBI and the state's enforcement wing of the Handloom department and consumer fora, he told reporters after a review meeting on Virudhunagar Handloom Mega cluster project of Cooptex. He said Tamil Nadu was spending Rs 350 crore on purchase of free saris and dhotis, procured from the powerloom sector. Cooptex had suggested that the state release a monthly fund of Rs 35 crore so that handloom weavers also would get regular income. "Cooperative so-

Managing Director of Cooptex C. Umashankar, centre, inspecting production of a sari using a mechanised pedal loom in Sundarapandiyam near Srivilliputtur cieties are taking looms on contract to achieve the target," he said. He said Cooptex would go in for German technology to manufacture non silk saris. Co-optex, which was set up in 1935, promotes over 1,175 handloom weaver co-operative societies, supporting 2 lakh 30,000 weavers in Tamil Nadu. It runs 209 showrooms across the country with a total retail turnover of Rs 200 crore. Co-optex has set an ambitious target of Rs 800 crore for this year and will also get into online sale of products in India and abroad. Co-optex currently sells 1,00,000 silk and 3,00,000 cotton saris every year across its showrooms, apart from home linen, men’s and children’s apparel.

Textiles Ministry Constitutes Panel to Study Arulpuram CETP The Union Textiles Ministry has constituted a high-level committee to study the functioning of Arulpuram Common Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) and to advise the government on technical solutions for ensuring zero liquid discharge in the dyeing process, among other issues. According to a communiqué received at Tirupur Exporters Association, the committee has Prof. M.S. Swaminathan, renowned agriculture scientist, as its chairman and V. Srinivas, joint secretary of textiles, GoI, as its convener. The members of the committee include M.S. Ananth, former director of IITMadras; G.D. Yadav, Vice-Chancellor of University Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai; M.L. Gulrajani, Chair Professor (Textile technology), IIT-Delhi; S. Prabhakar, scientist, Bhabha Atomic Research Centre, Mumbai; and Sudha Nair, Scientist, M.S. Swaminathan Research Foundation. The committee will be visiting the cluster to study, assess and advice on the technical solutions proposed by Tamil Nadu Water Investment Company for ensuring ZLD norms in the cluster. The trial run carried out by Arulpuram CETP for testing the ZLD gadgets installed on its premises would be observed by the committee. The farming community has expressed surprise over the formation of committee with M.S. Swaminathan, who always campaigned for the farmers' right, as the chairman who, according to them, had a career all through in the field of agriculture. They feel that Prof. Swaminathan should not accept this assignment of advicing the same dyeing units which had destroyed the livelihood of lakhs of farmers through indiscriminate discharge of effluents into the River Noyyal.

NCM-SEPTEMBER 2011 87

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