The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly - UK62

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CANNA RHIZOTONIC

At CANNA Research, we are continuously testing our products in order to make improvements. In May 2024, RHIZOTONIC will be getting an upgrade! When using the improved product you will experience increased effectiveness and tank stability. The shelf life has doubled from one to two years and you no longer need to worry about raised pH levels in your tank when applying the product. For growers, who were using RHIZOTONIC before, rest assured you will not need to change the way you use it and you can still expect exceptional results from your plants.

FOREWORD CREDITS

Every gardener has experienced growing pains, from plant choice and environment to pests or diseases. I have always struggled with pests in my indoor garden and, more recently, powdery mildew. I almost always have thrips or mites and do my best to minimise the damage they cause. I am implementing new protocols and am optimistic that 2025 is the year I kill all these mother F***ers. This edition has informed and motivated me to make some changes. I hope you can solve your problems too with a little help from our friends.

Everest Fernandez has two informative articles any grower can relate to. In “Evaluating Clones” and “Powdery Mildew: A Quick Guide to Sanity,” you’ll find tips and tricks for selecting healthy plants and keeping them that way.

Countless growers use Calcium-Magnesium supplements, aka CaMG, to solve many plant problems. While vital to plant health, what’s the real scoop on CaMg? Can it fix everything that goes wrong in a grow? In “CalMagCure-all or Quackery?”, our resident nutrient expert Av Singh, PhD, gives us the answer.

Alex Field offers excellent growing advice for all our budding mushroom enthusiasts in his article, “The 5 Most Common Mushroom-Growing Problems – and How to Avoid Them.” Xavi Kief writes about living soil as an IPM, a must-read for diehard organic growers.

I would also like to take this opportunity to introduce Haley Nagasaki, our featured author and newest member of the Garden Culture team. Haley joins us in the role of Integrated Sales and Business Development. We could not be more excited! Get to know her better on p.10.

My final words of advice? Keep it clean, don’t overcrowd your space, defoliate, use good environmental control equipment, collect data, and quarantine new plants. Did I say keep the area clean? Always have a couple of good natural pesticides handy, a bottle of hypochlorous acid, and this edition of Garden Culture Magazine.

Happy Gardening,

SPECIAL THANKS TO:

Adam Clarke, Alex Field, Anne Gibson, Av Singh, Catherine Sherriffs, Everest Fernandez, Haley Nagasaki, Jennifer Cole, Luke Sumpter, Marci Babineau, Martyna Krol, Regi Oneton, and Xavi Kief.

PRESIDENT

Eric Coulombe eric@gardenculturemagazine.com +1-514-233-1539

VICE PRESIDENT

Celia Sayers celia@gardenculturemagazine.com +1-514-754-1539

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Catherine Sherriffs cat@gardenculturemagazine.com

DESIGN

Job Hugenholtz job@gardenculturemagazine.com

INTEGRATED SALES & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Haley Nagasaki Haley@gardenculturemagazine.com +1 (604) 401-7209

DIGITAL & SOCIAL MARKETING social@gardenculturemagazine.com

ADVERTISING ads@gardenculturemagazine.com

PUBLISHER

325 Media INC

44 Hyde Rd., Mille-Isles QC, Canada J0R 1A0 GardenCultureMagazine.com

ISSN 2562-3540 (Print) · ISSN 2562-3559 (Online)

Garden Culture is published six times a year, both in print and online.

DISTRIBUTION PARTNERS

• Creation Wholesale

• One Love Inc

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from 325 Media Inc.

Author Spotlight

Haley Nagasaki

Our first edition of 2025 is the perfect time to introduce you to a fresh face here at Garden Culture Magazine. We are thrilled to announce that Haley Nagasaki is joining our core team in the role of Integrated Sales and Business Development. Haley is a legacy plant medicine journalist passionate about gardening and the natural world. You’ll see her articles in our magazine and on the blog, but Haley is especially keen to build relationships with our current and future partners, advertisers, distributors, and friends. Welcome to the team, Haley!

On a scale of 1 to 10, how excited are you to join the Garden Culture team? I’m so excited to be joining the Garden Culture team because, as of 2025, I’ve been working as a journalist for a decade. I’ve produced both B2B and B2C content, and for the first time, I can bridge those two disciplines while keeping my hands in the dirt. I look forward to developing my voice within the magazine and its many advertisers and contributors while researching gardening-related topics and playfully blogging about my indoor grow op and outdoor garden, complete with a growing flock of chickens. To answer the question, I am 10/10 excited!

What’s the coolest thing about the growing industry? The coolest thing about the growing gardening industry, closely related to the DIY movement, is this propensity toward natural health and self-empowerment through homemaking and land stewardship. Skills that were once taken for granted somehow got lost during the Industrial Revolution. Many of us are experiencing this resurgence in old ways of thinking and being in a world that honours the natural rhythms of nature as an act of reclaiming traditional customs and wisdom as well as our sovereignty. In a nutshell!

What’s your favourite plant to grow? While I love Brassicas, my favourite plant to grow in the garden is Morning Glory! Not to be confused with the noxious Jimson weed or Moonflower. I love Morning Glories because of how they make me feel. I smile every time they bloom and am in awe of their striking colours. There is also some nostalgia there. It was the first flower I ever successfully grew when I started gardening. They can do a lot for the garden’s aesthetic by spreading their tendrils, covering a drab fence or filling a hanging basket while attracting pollinators like bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

Would you rather travel back in time or into the future? Back in time! On the thread of ancestry and traditional wisdom, I’d love to go back and observe, pen in hand, or speak with our ancestors about their practices. So much has been lost over the years, collectively, as well as my own heritage. I’d love to meet more of my Japanese relatives and experience the Celtic wisdom of my matrilineage before coming to Canada. Hell, I’d love to see some

Classic Rock before it was classic! But in truth, I find the toil of the pioneers and the Indigenous teachings before them most valuable from a spiritual and pedagogical perspective.

What are some of your favourite things to do outside of work? I like road-tripping. I like shopping for vintage records and thrifting treasures made of natural fibres. My favourite place to be is at the cottage on Georgian Bay. I like making beaded necklaces, creative writing, and cooking. I enjoy mushroom foraging on Vancouver Island and spending time with a non-profit there for the care of six beautiful medicine horses. I like cutting loose with my friends and dancing to Deep House music. I like to sing. I like real talk. I like nerding out on a new topic. I like making salves. I like thinking big.

Is there something else we need to know about you? When I was a kid, say around 2000, I wrote short stories on a word processor on my dad’s laptop at the cottage. No dial-up internet, just my creative thoughts and storytelling on paper. For fun as a preteen, I’d make magazines using clip art to the tune of Teen People and J14. And, of course, I’d always be making potions. I find myself doing the same things now. 3

Are you interested in writing for Garden Culture Magazine?

We’d love to hear from you! Send us an email introducing yourself with a sample of your work editor@gardenculturemagazine.com

VGN 4-PACK by ATAMI

Veganic Fertilisers nourish your plants for healthier crops, fragrant flowers, and tasty fruit! Try the whole range with the convenient 4-pack, which contains four certified organic fertilisers for the whole plant cycle in a 250ml format:

• VGN 5-2-2: Grow healthy green plants with a little extra nitrogen.

• VGN 2-2-4: Extra potassium for stronger, more vigorous growth.

• VGN 1-4-4-4: Provides additional phosphorus and potassium for outstanding flowering.

• VGN CalMag:To strengthen cell walls, and support cell production and photosynthesis.

Combine according to your needs and visit ATAMI.com to learn more about this new range of veganic products from Atami!

Gorilla Propagation LED Range

The Gorilla Propagation LED Range delivers reliable, energy-efficient lighting for seedlings, cuttings, and early-stage plants. Available in 60cm (12W), 90cm (18W), and 120cm (24W) sizes, these lights provide a balanced blue spectrum to encourage strong root development and compact growth. Whether you’re working with a small propagation tent or scaling up to larger grow racks, Gorilla LEDs offer practical, no-fuss solutions to get your plants off to a solid start.

Designed with growers in mind, these lightweight LED strips can be daisy-chained, making them easy to customise for setups of any size. Power leads are sold separately, so you only need one per chain, saving you money when linking multiple strips. Built to perform without driving up running costs, Gorilla Propagation LEDs are a reliable choice for budget-conscious growers who need lighting that works.

Available exclusively from Highlight Horticulture. Contact your local store for details.

Biobizz offers two standout products for a thriving garden that take your plants to the next level: Pre·Mix and Microbes.

Pre·Mix is a perfect starting point for beginners or those reusing soil. It combines organic fertilisers, trace elements, rock meals, and beneficial fungi to promote robust growth and disease resistance. Simply mix it with your soil or soilless substrate.You can also include organic worm castings for added microbial life and nutrients. Pre·Mix is the ideal transplant or starter fertiliser, ensuring healthy plants right from the start.

Microbes is a powerful blend of microorganisms, enzymes, and beneficial fungi that support every stage of plant growth. It enhances seedling development, boosts nutrient absorption, and promotes root growth. The beneficial bacteria increase nutrient uptake, while the enzymes catalyse organic nutrients for faster absorption. Trichoderma fungi protect against harmful pathogens and help retain water. Use Microbes weekly to ensure a healthy, productive garden.

Together, Pre·Mix and Microbes give your plants the best start and optimal conditions for maximum yield.

Check out BIOBIZZ.com for more tips for the garden.

PRO7 ALL+MIX, Premium quality by Jiffy

PRO7 ALL+MIX is an RHP Certified blend of premium substrates. Perlite and organic fibres are blended to give a light and oxygen-filled media creating a perfect habitat for a flourishing microbial system.

This abundance of microbial activity and beneficial bacteria in PRO7 ALL+MIX ensures vigorous plant growth, increased nutrient uptake and reliable water retention. PRO7 ALL+MIX is pre-fertilised with sufficient nutrient to sustain lush and forceful growth for up to 4 weeks.

Manufactured and distributed exclusively by HydroGarden. Contact your local grow store for more details.

Check out pro7substrate.com to learn more.

Have you tried it yet?

BudBox PRO Titan 9 RAM AIRTECH HEAVY Filters

RAM AIRTECH HEAVY Filters offer quality and superb value for selective professionals with a range of long-life, high-quality filters. They are the perfect choice when reliability and air move performance in excess of 2000m3 are required.

The 60mm bed depth throughout the HEAVY range provides longer contact time between the CTC65 virgin activated carbon and the grow room’s air. The rugged 55% all Zintec mesh allows for maximum airflow and uniformity across the filter body.

Manufactured and distributed exclusively by HydroGarden. Contact your local grow store for more details.

The ENORMOUS BudBox PRO Titan 9 is 900x450x240cm! That’s 40.5 m2 of floor space to grow in!

There are many doors, ports, passive micro-mesh screened filters, and night vision windows to give you every option for your growing needs. With super-strong tempered steel frames, oversized vents, hanging bars, acoustic-deadening silicone pads, double cuff vents, and class-leading quality, welcome to the finest grow tent you can buy.

From the UK’s #1 Bestselling Grow Tent Manufacturer, 8 years in a row.

Check out budboxgrowtents.com

NEW!

Organic DryPart ® :

all the performance of a fertiliser in a single powder

Organic DryPart® is a 100% soluble, vegan powder fertiliser designed for all growing methods—soil, coco, and hydroponics—and all watering systems, from manual to drip irrigation. Suitable for organic farming, this two-part formula includes Grow for vegetative growth and Bloom for flowering and fruiting.

Grow & Bloom provides:

• Vigorous plant growth with lush vegetation.

• Dense, flavorful flowers and fruits, rich in sugars.

• Enhanced natural fragrances and aromas.

• Improved harvest quality and maximized yields.

• Complete nutrition, delivering immediate plant benefits while enriching the soil long-term.

The DAYLIGHT 480W LED is an ideal replacement for traditional 600W HPS systems, offering efficiency and superior performance. With an output of 1104 μmol/s and full-spectrum coverage, it’s perfect for 1.2 x 1.2m areas. Its fan-less design ensures silent operation, while the IP65 ingress protection guarantees durability. This 2.3 version, featuring Osram and Lumileds chips, provides uniform light distribution and includes a remote dimmer for flexible power control. With a 50,000hour lifespan and a four-year warranty, it’s an investment in reliable, ecofriendly growing technology.

Grow is available in 70g, 400g, and 800g formats, while Bloom is available in 70g, 500g, and 1kg.

Now available at your favourite shops. Check out TerraAquatica.com for more info.

Manufactured and distributed exclusively by Highlight Horticulture. Contact your local store for details or visit GrowWithDaylight.co.uk

Bluelab OnePen™

The new all-in-one solution for measuring pH, Conductivity (EC), and Temperature, the Bluelab OnePen™, ensures that your plants have the necessary nutrient balance.

The double-junction pH probe, titanium electrodes, and IP68 dust and waterproof rating ensure durability, while the replaceable probe and health indicator simplify maintenance for long-lasting performance.

This pen’s ergonomic build and high-contrast backlit display also feature simultaneous pH and Conductivity (EC) readings for a seamless user experience. Get fast, precise readings down to 2 decimal places with the Bluelab OnePen™. This reliable information empowers growers to make confident decisions, saving you time and ensuring optimal plant growth.

2-Year limited warranty for the Bluelab OnePen™; 6-months for the Bluelab OnePen™ Replacement Probe.

Connect your Bluelab OnePen™ to the Edenic app via Bluetooth for real-time sharing, updates, and comprehensive data management. Record, store, categorise and share your measurements in one easy-to-use app.

Available at a store near you. Follow @CreationWholesale for the latest equipment your grow.

OPTIMISE YIELDS, CUT COSTS WITH QUEST CLIMATE

For growers, energy efficiency and precise climate management are key to maximising yields and reducing costs. Quest Climate delivers high-performance, energy-efficient, and reliable dehumidifiers in various sizes tailored to indoor agriculture. With the capacity to remove up to 335 litres of moisture per day (at 26.7°C / 60% RH conditions), Quest dehumidifiers operate with industry-leading efficiency, reducing energy consumption while maintaining the perfect environment for your crops. Powered by patented M-CoRR™ Technology and trusted by growers worldwide, Quest dehumidifiers are the smart choice for those looking to maximise yields, cut costs, and elevate their operations.

Dirt Bag Grey range of fabric grow bags

These round, fabric non-woven breathable plant pots continue the tradition of promoting healthier, air-pruned, efficient root systems.

Made with 100% recycled plastic, these pots are not only tough but also eco-friendly. Easy to wash and reuse, they are perfect for gardeners who appreciate quality and sustainability. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting out, these pots help your plants grow to their full potential, combining durability with great value.

Available in various sizes, they can integrate effortlessly with popular grow systems like Mega Pots.

Available exclusively from Highlight Horticulture. Contact your local store for details.

MILLS TOP MIX

Mills Top Mix is a high-quality potting soil fertilised by Mills (NPK 14-1618). It contains a premium blend of the finest black, brown and white peat with added lime extract. Additionally, Mills Top Mix contains perlite, a volcanic substance that can absorb a substantial amount of water and oxygen.Top Mix provides an explosive start with an EC 1,2-1,4 and added calcium nitrate. It is perfect for exotic cuttings and seedlings.

For more information, visit GrowWithMills.co.uk

Botanixx 720W Direct Drive LED

The Botanixx 720W Direct Drive LED Grow Light is driving a seismic shift in the industry. Growers no longer need to spend exorbitant amounts on high-performance LED technology. This new generation, ultra slimline Direct Drive LED is super lightweight and has no external ballast, meaning it can be unfolded and installed in moments—no tools required.

This new budget high-performance LED grow light is rewriting the rules for indoor growers by delivering professional-grade performance at a market-disrupting price point. Free from unnecessary gimmicks, the Botanixx 720W focuses on delivering exceptional results. The Botanixx 720W Direct Drive LED has advanced features like built-in dimming control, seamless integration with TrolMaster systems, rugged IP65-rated durability, and a full five-year warranty.

The Botanixx 720W Direct Drive LED Grow Light is a game-changer for growers seeking top-tier performance at an accessible price.

Ask for it at your local store and follow @CreationWholesale for more great garden products.

Maxibright T5 LED Lighting Fixtures

Where old-school reliability meets new-school efficiency.

Designed for both compact and large grow spaces, these fixtures are available in four sizes. It emits a precise 6500K colour temperature, perfect for seedlings, vegetative growth, and as a supplementary blue light source. It’s not just about doing the same job; it’s about doing it better.These fixtures not only match the traditional fixtures but also boast significant energy efficiency.The transition to LED is not just simple but a smart move. See how LEDs boost your plants’ start in life. If you’re after reliability and the latest in efficiency, it’s time to consider an update.

Upgrade your grow space and see why so many trust T5 LEDs.

Available exclusively from Highlight Horticulture Contact your local store for details.

SPARK YOUR PLANTS TO NEW HEIGHTS

HIGH CONCENTRATION = FASTER INOCULATION AND POTENCY

3600 endomycorrhizal propagules/g

Beneficial bacteria including Mycorrhizae Helper Bacteria (MHB)

Growth enhancers & biostimulants

Giles Gunstone

A Man of Honour in Horticulture

Garden Culture Magazine remembers Giles Gunstone, founder and former Managing Director of Growth Technology. Giles was an important figure in the horticulture industry and was passionate about hydroponic gardening. He was also a loving husband to Alys, who reflects on her husband’s legacy here.

Giles became fascinated with horticulture in 1982 while working in the fledgling kiwifruit industry in New Zealand. We started our company growing exotic fruits in 1985 in Western Australia, where Giles simultaneously achieved a degree in horticulture. We had a contract with the airline Qantas to supply cherry tomatoes. We also grew living herbs for supermarkets; hydroponic produce has a longer shelf life, and manipulation of brix (sugar levels) enhances flavour. Our company name was born out of this research.

In 1989, we formed Growth Technology to produce our first major products for sale—Formulex and Clonex. We returned home to the UK in 1992 to set up the European arm of our business. Today, we sell products for propagation, orchids, cacti, bonsai, and more from Scandinavia to Southeast Asia. Later in the 1990s, we formed a trading partnership with SGS in Michigan (now Hydrodynamics International) to distribute our products in the USA.

Twin-pack nutrients were standard then, so our innovative single packs with all major and trace elements in the correct balance were very popular, especially with beginners in hydroponic cultivation. Giles went beyond this level with his interest in orchid nutrition and eventually with houseplants as we moved from hydroponics to more mainstream horticultural practice. However, sustainability and the particular benefit of hydroponics in reducing water waste and the use of pesticides in controlled environments were essential parts of decisionmaking, whether in soil or inorganic substrates. Giles was always our creative director in product development and designing high-quality labelling to promote our solutions. We do not advertise, as our labels and quality nutrient products say everything.

Giles was our Managing Director until 2019 when he first displayed signs of ill health. He is remembered as an honourable man who became a fellow of the Royal Society and is missed by all who knew him. 3

Use with seedlings and young plants for rapid root growth, pla nt vit ality a nd abundant branching

BY HALEY

Crop Rotation, Interplanting,

In this edition, we explore how organic growing methods and living soil can help protect against pests and pathogens in the garden by strengthening the immune system of plants through their good health. Starting with a bustling soil microbiome is crucial. However, cultural practices like crop rotation and intercropping may also be employed as integrated pest management (IPM) strategies, especially for market gardeners. Here are a few helpful tips and some acclaimed resources for further reading.

The planning phase of any garden is imperative to its success

Proper Planning

The planning phase of any garden is imperative to its success. This means mapping beds and assessing timing for frost dates and harvest, sun requirements, drought tolerance, nutritional needs, appropriate pairing, and, eventually, rotating crops.

Crop Rotation

One of the most interesting practices I’ve learned is the rotation of broccoli and strawberries for IPM. The insect-repellent nature of the brassica’s sulphur residue in the soil can protect the vulnerable berries against disease. This is one example of the synergistic relationships of plants and their ability to assist one another through biochemical signalling and biodiversity.

Interplanting

Intercropping or interplanting is the practice of planting different species of crops in proximity to maximise productivity based on complementary characteristics. Examples include the interplay of light and heavy feeders or taproot and fibrous root systems.

The best farmer I know of using this method is Jean-Martin Fortier – a Quebec farmer who intensifies the productivity of small plots of land, 2.5 acres or less. He educates farmers about strategic interplanting to maximise yield and space

in the backyard market garden. Fortier wrote the popular 2012 handbook, The Market Gardener, A Successful Grower’s Handbook for Smallscale Organic Farming, and stated therein that he follows the teachings of Eliot Coleman – an innovative American farmer also worth checking out.

In his book The New Organic Grower, A Master’s Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market Gardener, Coleman calls crop rotation a good example of an ages-old dependable farming practice.

“To my mind, crop rotation is the single most important practice in a multiple-cropping programme,” he writes, including fertilisation and pest control. Coleman does not encourage the use of pesticides of any kind because “the systems of the natural world are elegant and logical.” And his reasoning? “Plants only become susceptible to pest attack when they are stressed by inadequate growing conditions.” Pests and disease then become markers for cultural practices that need improving.

and Companions

as IPM in the Market Garden

Cultural practices like crop rotation and intercropping may also be employed as integrated pest management (IPM) strategies, especially for market gardeners.”

Step one in organic gardening IPM is keeping your soil as healthy, humus-rich, and microbially robust as possible. Step two is strategically using cultural practices for productivity, plant health, and IPM

A Multi-Pronged Approach

Step one in organic gardening IPM is keeping your soil as healthy, humus-rich, and microbially robust as possible. Step two is strategically using cultural practices for productivity, plant health, and IPM.

The rotation of broccoli and strawberries can help reduce specific pathogens, such as Verticillium fungi, that cause wilt in strawberries. The sulphur from broccoli and other Brassicas repels fungi and mould in the soil, and the crop residue leftover from broccoli is a biofumigant, similar to how mustard is used as a cover crop for disease suppression.

Overall, it’s good practice to rotate crops from different families because those from the same family possess the same susceptibilities. It’s important to note that some families can be prone to the same diseases, such as Rosaceae (strawberries) and Solanaceae/Nightshades (tomatoes), which are susceptible to Verticillium wilt.

Rotating crops with intention also replenishes minerals in the soil. A classic example of this is the rotation of corn and beans. Corn is a heavy nitrogen feeder, and beans or legumes are nitrogen fixers.

Moreover, planting non-host plants can resist enabling the spread of pests and disease. For example, corn rootworms can be controlled by rotating non-host/pest-resistant crops like soybeans and broadleaves. However, soybeans are susceptible to white mould, and corn is not. In addition to the complementary nitrogen rotation, which strengthens plants through nutritional needs (indirect IPM), corn and soy also make excellent rotation candidates as a direct defence against some pests and diseases.

Companion Planting

Companion planting, a version of intercropping, can also be used for IPM. Some flowers, like marigolds and nasturtiums, are reputed to repel nematodes and other pests while attracting predatory insects that prey on them. Nasturtiums can also help keep caterpillars away from cabbage. These are trap plants or crops. Nettles, as trap plants, can lure aphids away from other plants and attract the ladybugs (AKA your garden’s SWAT team).

When grown in the same garden bed, stinging nettle can increase the production of volatile oils in herbs in the Lamiaceae family, such as mint or basil. Cool, eh?

Prevention is Key

We’ve heard the adage “prevention is the cure” for people, which also applies to plants. Focusing on soil health and biodiversity in the garden, coupled with practices like crop rotation, companion planting, and trap plants, makes a powerful toolkit based on traditional agricultural wisdom. For physical tools and barriers, try row covers and protective netting.

Read Garden Culture Magazine. Study Coleman, Fortier, and many other farming pros and start practising for yourself. Indulging in the many educational tools available means working smarter in the garden and leveraging strategy hacks instead of chemical bypasses. 3

BIO

Haley Nagasaki is a legacy plant medicine journalist and former B2B magazine editor in the Canadian cannabis sector. While she has spent the last three years highlighting the industry’s technical, regulatory, and financial sides, her horticultural interest is rooted in personal gardening and home-growing experiences. Haley explores the intersection of regenerative agriculture and community building, using nature’s tools to support collective well-being and consciousness expansion.

Nettles, as trap plants, can lure aphids away from other plants and attract the ladybugs

clones Evaluating clones

Healthy leaves should be strutting their stuff— vibrant, green, and blemish-free

these innocent-looking green stubs can embody years of careful selections or drag your grow into a full-blown horticultural horror show

Grow lore is littered with cautionary tales about the consequences of accepting subpar clones from third parties. The genesis of countless pest infestations and plant diseases, these innocent-looking green stubs can embody years of careful selections or drag your grow into a full-blown horticultural horror show. The time, labour, stress, and frustration of salvaging your grow from these inadvertently imported problems is a hard-won lesson.

Rooted Cuttings: A Double-Edged Sword

Let’s begin by taking a quick look at the bad stuff first. Assuming your clone source is telling you the whole truth about the genetics they claim to have in hand, unpleasant surprises tend to lurk under three categories:

1. Pests

Whip out the jeweler’s loupe (minimum X30 magnification). Uninvited guests like spider mites, thrips, and aphids are notorious hitchhikers hiding on leaves or within propagation media. These pests multiply quickly, turning a single cutting into a source of infestation that can ravage an entire grow. Worse, they often arrive in their least visible forms, such as eggs or larvae, making early detection challenging.

2. Pathogens

Warm, humid propagation environments are perfect breeding grounds for diseases like powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spots, and root rot. Pathogens thrive on stressed or wounded tissue, common in cuttings due to handling and transport.

3. Systemic Infections: Viruses and Viroids

Systemic infections are the silent saboteurs of horticulture. Unlike pests or pathogens, these infections may not manifest until plants are well-established, making them hard to detect early. Examples include:

• Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV): TMV causes discoloured, mottled leaves, reducing photosynthesis and plant vigour. It spreads through contact with infected tools, hands, or plant material.

• Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV): This virus causes ring spots and stunted growth, transmitted primarily by thrips. Infected plants often become non-viable.

• Hop Latent Viroid (HLVd): A viroid that has gained notoriety for its devastating impact on high-value crops. It may initially appear asymptomatic, only to stunt growth, reduce yields, and compromise secondary metabolite production.

• Cucumber Mosaic Virus (CMV): Known for its wide host range, CMV causes leaf curling and mottling, significantly affecting crop quality and yield.

Detecting these infections without advanced diagnostic tools is almost impossible, making prevention and quarantine crucial.

Detective Work: Spotting the Healthy Cuttings

Before we get lost down a rabbit hole of negativity, let’s not for get what we should be looking out for:

1. Leaf Swagger

Healthy leaves should be strutting their stuff—vibrant, green, and blemish-free. Yellowing, spots, or crispy edges? Swipe left.

Green Flags:

• Perky and hydrated (like they’ve had their coffee).

• Absolutely no necrotic (dead) tissue.

• Even coloration—no plant tie-dye patterns here—with no interveinal chlorosis.

2. Stem Solidarity

A quick pinch tells you everything, but then you risk harming the cutting you’re trying to evaluate! Firm stems are thriving stems. A more passive approach is to ask: is the clone standing to attention or looking sorry for itself?

3. Roots

Check the roots like a restaurant inspector eating spaghetti. Healthy ones are prolific, white, fibrous, and full of fine hairs. Slimy, discoloured, or smelly roots? Hard pass. Healthy clones should be singing “Plant me today!” not “I’ll be alright in a few days.”

4. Uniformity Matters

Consistency is king. If one cutting looks like a valedictorian and another like it’s barely passing, it’s not a good sign and bodes poorly for your future canopy management.

5. Sniff Test

Plants should smell earthy and fresh. Sour or musty odours are a red flag for decay and mould. Trust your nose—it’s a plant lie detector.

Quarantine: The Interrogation Room for Your Green Guests

Before you let your new cuttings rub elbows (or nodes) with your main crop, give them the VIP quarantine treatment:

1. Time-Out for Troublemakers. Set them aside for at least 7–14 days in a separate space, ideally a grow tent, as far from the main action as possible. Think of it as a spa retreat with a side of intense scrutiny.

2. Pest Traps Galore. Sticky traps are your besties for catching pests in the act. Place them liberally in your quarantine tent.

3. Preventive TLC. Treat them with broad-spectrum horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps. It’s like giving them a deep clean before the party.

4. Daily Checkups. Perform daily inspections. Catching issues early means fewer headaches later.

Professional Techniques

Considering the time, energy, and resources it takes to produce a harvest from a cutting, it’s worth seeing if clones are up to the challenge. If you want to flex those green thumbs, here are some pro moves:

1. Diagnostic Testing

PCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction) testing can be instrumental in some circumstances. You can purchase plant disease PCR test kits online. These kits can help you identify specific plant pathogens by identifying their DNA or RNA, facilitating early and accurate diagnosis of disease. Several companies offer such kits:

• Creative Diagnostics: Provides a broad range of plant pathogen ELISA detection kits and rapid test strips for viruses, bacteria, and fungi affecting various crops.

• Promega: Offers qPCR and RT-qPCR products capable of detecting and amplifying target sequences of plant pathogens, aiding in precise disease diagnosis.

• Sigma-Aldrich (MilliporeSigma): Supplies PCR kits suitable for plant analysis, including the KAPA3G Plant PCR Kits designed for amplifying fragments from purified plant DNA.

Note that these PCR kits are generally intended for professional growers with some laboratory experience and access to appropriate equipment. If in doubt, consider a professional diagnostic service instead. Typically, you get results back in five days following the lab’s receipt of your plant sample.

Useful Resources

• Fera Science (UK): fera.co.uk

• National Plant Diagnosis Network (USA): npdn.org

• A&L Canada Laboratories Inc. (Canada): alcanada.com

2. Buy a Few Extra Cuttings For Stress Testing

Want to know if your cuttings are tough enough? Put them under moderate stress (like lower humidity). Weaklings will wilt, leaving only the strongest to thrive.

3. Bioassays with Sentinel Plants

Introduce a few healthy plants to the quarantine zone. If they start looking sick, you could have a plant pathogen problem.

Sourcing stem cuttings is not unlike online dating apps—exciting but fraught with risks. (It’s better to go with a recommendation from a friend, but still no guarantees.) A little extra effort upfront—inspections, quarantine, and testing—can save you from heartbreak or crop failure later. With that in mind, best of luck with your grow—and your next date. 3

Everest Fernandez is a well-respected industry educator, veteran hydroponic grower and grow light enthusiast, based in France. He works primarily as a marketing and cultivation consultant and was the founding editor of Urban Garden Magazine in the UK, US and Canada. He also writes and researches for the popular hobby horticulturalist YouTube channel, Just4Growers. Bio

Introduce a few healthy plants to the quarantine zone. If they start looking sick, you could have a plant pathogen problem

calmag calmag

Can this humble nutrient amendment be the holy elixir to fix all that is failing in your garden?

Got yellowing leaves? Use CalMag. Got nutrient lockout? Use CalMag. Got powdery mildew? Use CalMag. Got aphids?

Use CalMag? Are you starting to see a trend? Can this humble nutrient amendment be the holy elixir to fix all that is failing in your garden? The simple answer is “of course not”; the more complex answer is “sometimes”.

Under natural growing conditions like sunlight and soil, most plants won’t exhibit deficiencies in Ca or Mg

CalMag is simply Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg), both considered secondary macronutrients. Secondary relative to NPK (Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium) but still “macro” as it speaks to the quantity of these elements consumed by plants. However, when the two nutrients are combined into a supplement called CalMag, they include a host of other nutrients like nitrogen, sulphur, chloride, iron, etc. They can come in either liquid (soluble) or powder (plant-available) formulations.

The Underrated MacronutrientsCalcium and Magnesium

Under natural growing conditions like sunlight and soil, most plants won’t exhibit deficiencies in Ca or Mg. However, in controlled environment agriculture (CEA), such as greenhouses and warehouses, the intense demands placed on plants to maximise growth and yield can lead to a deficiency of these two nutrients, leading to many disorders. LED or Double-Ended HPS lights can accelerate photosynthesis to levels that exhaust Ca or Mg reserves in the plant and the growing media.

For hydroponic enthusiasts, especially those using reverse osmosis water, Ca and Mg have been stripped away, resulting in a deficit. They need to be given to plants via a fertility programme. In contrast, growers using well or tap water can experience limited Ca or Mg uptake because the pH is less than ideal or some other nutrient in high concentration like Sodium (Na) or Potassium (K) is blocking the absorption of these macronutrients. This is common for growers using coco coir that has not been adequately washed or buffered. Quality coco coir is “charged” by using Ca and Mg to wash away the excess Na and K. However, if this is not done, both elements will inhibit a plant’s ability to consume Ca or Mg.

Lastly, temperature and humidity are critical determinants affecting water uptake, and water is the common conduit for nutrients like Ca and Mg. There may be adequate Ca in the growing media, but if the relative humidity is too high, the plant may not transpire enough water to transport Ca to all cells. More importantly, Ca is the chief transporter of other elements into the plant, including many essential trace minerals. Many indoor gardeners with fluctuating humidity often notice a Ca deficiency weeks before seeing the tell-tale signs of a powdery mildew outbreak.

Deficiency? What does that look like?

The “Cure-All” nature of the CalMag supplement is a testament to the importance of these two elements to the health and vitality of the plant. Similar to that in the human skeletal system, Ca is the backbone of plant structure and is vital in the growth and development of new roots and shoots. Also, as mentioned above, Ca is the transport truck that brings most other nutrients into the plant and, therefore, has a critical role in a plant’s response to stress. Deficiencies in Ca appear first in new growth because Ca is considered an immobile nutrient, meaning that once it finds its final destination within the plant, it cannot be broken down and moved to another location.

It is often no surprise that a deficiency in Ca can also cause a Mg deficiency. However, the Mg deficiency alone can be detrimental to plant health. Mg is the central element in chlorophyll, the molecule that converts light energy into chemical energy (sugar) in the phenomenon we call photosynthesis. But beyond being essential for photosynthesis, Mg plays integral roles in carbon dioxide utilisation, synthesis of proteins and carbohydrates, and activating enzymes that help carry out floral and seed production processes.

In agriculture, the number of disorders associated with Ca deficiencies are numerous and include but are not limited to:

• bitter pit in apples

• hollow heart in potatoes

• cavity spot in carrots

• blossom end rot in tomatoes and peppers

• tip burn in lettuce

• blackheart in celery

Most plants exhibit stunted growth, deformed upper leaves, and poor root mass, which increases their susceptibility to root diseases.

Plants experiencing an Mg deficiency may exhibit a leaf curl of the margins. Still, the classic symptomology is interveinal chlorosis -- a fancy phrase to describe the yellowing of the leaf between the dark green veins. The chlorophyll molecule can no longer be synthesised in Mg-deficient plants and begins turning yellow. If left untreated, this yellowing becomes a necrotic spot as the plant tries to kill off sections of the leaves that it can no longer sustain.

Many indoor gardeners with fluctuating humidity often notice a Ca deficiency weeks before seeing the tell-tale signs of a powdery mildew outbreak.

Addressing the symptomsCalMag to the rescue

Most hydroponic grow/veg nutrient formulations provide enough calcium and magnesium to meet the plant’s needs under normal growing conditions. Calcium is commonly supplied as calcium nitrate, and magnesium is supplied as magnesium sulphate (aka Epsom salts). These two are kept in separate solutions because if mixed, they will form a precipitate of calcium sulphate, better known as gypsum, which is highly insoluble. Living soil organic (LSO) practitioners will require microbial activity to help make certain forms of Ca or Mg more available. Commonly used by organic gardeners, calcium carbonate (calcitic or dolomitic limestone), oyster shell flour, or gypsum are used as Ca sources. Epsom salts are often used as a quick fix to treat Mg deficiency symptoms and can be used as a foliar or a soil drench. Epsom salts are a favourite for growers looking for higher Brix levels and enhanced aroma and taste in their fruit and flowers. The Mg in Epsom salts helps move sugars to the developing fruit or flower, while the sulphur plays a key role in developing flavour.

Another common Mg source is called Langbeinite or Sul-PoMag. This mined mineral is available in soluble forms, but not all langbeinite is readily soluble. Magnesium carbonate is also an option. However, the challenge with carbonates is that they can create lime scale or hard water. To help reduce this, some organic practitioners will include amino acids (soy or fish/squid hydrolysate), which help chelate the Ca and Mg cations, making them more soluble and available for uptake.

Now, let’s move from using these elements separately and get into greater detail about the Cal/Mag all-in-one supplement. The irony behind using this supplement is that the wrong concentration of either element can lead to a deficiency or an excess of the other. So, the grower must understand that using a Cal/Mag supplement often addresses a symptom, not the cause.

Plants experiencing an Mg deficiency may exhibit a leaf curl of the margins.

Eggplant leaves lacking magnesium

Several Cal/Mag supplements are available on the market, and they vary wildly in their nutrient analysis and, at times, their efficacy. However, most Cal/Mag supplements seek to maintain a proper ratio between the two elements. Typically, a 5:1 ratio of Ca:Mg is used to ensure that Mg is not too readily taken up by the plant. Ca acts as a buffer to help regulate the equal consumption of the two elements and prevent toxicity.

Common Cal/Mag supplements will derive their nutrients in association with nitrates, sulphates, carbonates, or chlorides, which will, of course, come with pros and cons. Most commonly used as a liquid supplement are calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate. Many of these supplements will show a percentage of N in the analysis, and in some instances, the N is rectifying the poor growth. However, the opposite can also be true. Excessive nitrates inhibit Ca uptake, causing a deficiency. Moreover, excessive nitrates at the wrong stage of a plant’s life cycle can lead to elongated internodes, weaker cell walls, and increased water content (resulting in lower Brix levels, i.e., lower dissolved solids (sugars) in sap). Many of these factors can increase a plant’s susceptibility to pathogens and be more attractive to insects like aphids, thrips, and whiteflies. Nitrates are like candy to a plant. A plant will over-consume nitrates when the opportunity arises, even though the plant requires a lot of energy to assimilate nitrates.

More recently, some liquid organic options have combined calcium chloride and magnesium chloride to avoid the buildup of excessive nitrates while maintaining organic status. Chloride

So, can Cal/Mag cure everything from powdery mildew to aphids and create a higher-quality fruit or flower? Most likely, yes, but the caveat is you may not know why it worked.

is an essential trace mineral and can help aid good vegetative growth. However, in some LSO systems, there can be an excess of Na cations. In such situations, there is a strong potential to create salts like sodium chloride or potassium chloride and raise your soluble salts into a range that can inhibit root growth.

CalMag can often also be found as a powder. Powdered supplements allow for mixing and matching nitrates with sulphates to prevent excesses. Note that the world of biostimulants has also affected the CalMag world. We are increasingly seeing CalMag products that include humic and fulvic acid as chelators, B vitamins to help kickstart ATP (energy) formation, and amino acids to help open Ca channels in plant roots. Once again, these innovative elixirs testify to how vital these two nutrients are for plant health and vigour.

So, can Cal/Mag cure everything from powdery mildew to aphids and create a higher-quality fruit or flower? Most likely, yes, but the caveat is you may not know why it worked. You require a soil, tissue, or sap analysis to fully understand how Ca or Mg deficiencies affect your plant. But if you just need to treat a symptom, a little Cal/Mag can go a long way. 3

BIO

Av Singh, PhD, PAg advocates regenerative organic agriculture serving various organisations, including Regeneration Canada, Navdanya, and the Canadian Organic Growers.

Squash leaf with powdery mildew disease

ofHope Little Forests

For this group, planting tiny urban forests is a profoundly personal experience that reaffirms our union with the natural world.

The Garden City Conservation Society (GCCS) is an ambitious bunch. While most organisations might be satisfied with planning the planting and creation of one urban forest, the GCCS has been involved with five tiny Miyawaki forests throughout the City of Richmond, B.C. [1]. Part of the inspiration for the projects is habitat loss in Richmond caused by land development and the overhauling of giant trees and bogs.

“We’ve lost three billion birds in North America since the 1970s,” says Sharon MacGougan, President of the GCCS [2]. “For us, it’s not just about building a garden but how we can, as a community, get busy and start restoring biodiversity.”

Hubs of Biodiversity

Initially developed by the Japanese botanist Akira Miyawaki, these small forests (often only 100 square metres) are denser than traditional forests. They are perfect for urban parks or small spaces like school grounds. It is not uncommon for a Miyawaki forest to contain as many as 300 native plants (shrubs, trees and perennials). A typical forest can take 200-300 years to achieve maturity, whereas a Miyawaki forest takes 25 to 30 years. It’s the density of the planting that makes this possible. Closely packed together, the only light the plants receive filters through the upper canopy of the trees, encouraging quick upward and steady growth [3]

What these spaces lack in size, they make up for with their service to the ecosystem. They support up to 20 times more species, including pollinators and amphibians, than non-native managed forests [4] They can absorb carbon, reduce the harmful effects of urban pollution, and improve soil structure, aiding in reducing urban flooding. In the era of climate change, when summers are increasingly getting hotter, they act as cooling stations, offsetting the heat absorbed through city concrete and asphalt [5]

Miyawaki Challenges

Inspired by an article in The Guardian newspaper, “Fast-growing mini-forests spring up in Europe to aid climate,” the group’s enthusiasm for planting a Miyawaki forest in Richmond was immediate [6] However, the idea took off only after MacGougan met Jay Peachy, a conservation artist, in 2021. He was working with Richmond Senior Secondary (RSS) then and shared the idea with the school’s staff, who embraced it. Meetings ensued, and in April 2022, the first Miyawaki forest in western Canada started to take root. But it was a challenging process. The GCCS is a volunteer organisation, and it was a battle doing it all themselves.

They sourced native plants from far and wide and even hired an excavator. Working in an urban setting is complex, so they had to hire an expert to map out utility lines before digging. Despite all these details, MacGougan is happy they took on the challenge of the first forest themselves. When they finished, the forest served as an example for the other projects regarding what could be accomplished in such a small space.

A typical forest can take 200-300 years to achieve maturity, whereas a Miyawaki forest takes 25 to 30 years

The City of Richmond was also inspired by the work of the GCCS, which has become a cherished partner in the endeavour for the following forests, taking on much of the excavating and heavy lifting the group initially found challenging [6]

These plants were installed at Miyawaki #4 at Garden City Park in Richmond, March 2023

Photo: Garden City Conservation Society.

They can absorb carbon, reduce the harmful effects of urban pollution, and improve soil structure, aiding in reducing urban flooding. In the era of climate change, when summers are increasingly getting hotter, they act as cooling stations, offsetting the heat absorbed through city concrete and asphalt

In 2023, the first Miyawaki forest in a public park in Canada became a reality. Because it is on public land, MacGougan believes there is a good chance it won’t even be uprooted and developed and will remain of value to the ecosystem in perpetuity.

Inspiring Action

With spaces like these popping up everywhere, there certainly is reason for hope

“There is a lot of bad news about the environment and climate,” MacGougan says. “People can feel a sense of hopelessness. [Planting these forests] is something they can do and feel good about.”

For one planting, 120 volunteers showed up to help, MacGougan recalls. It doesn’t take much of a person’s time to plant a Miyawaki forest, which is part of the appeal. If the ground is prepared and the plants are available, it can take less than an hour to finish. The impact of that short amount of time is enormous.

Believing that putting hands in the dirt is empowering and creates a connection to nature, the GCCS shows volunteers how to massage and prepare the roots of the plants before placing them into the ground. Soon, all their work will be proven successful by science. MacGougan is excited that Birds Canada is conducting a one-year study to determine how many birds are attracted to these spaces.

Still, the research will only confirm what she already knows. These are unique places where the natural and human worlds connect.

The GCCS is a conservation society and often struggles to find people to support its environmental causes. However, MacGougan has been pleasantly surprised by the response to Richmond’s “Little Forests of Hope,” as she has dubbed them. With spaces like these popping up everywhere, there certainly is reason for hope. 3

Footnotes:

1. Garden City Conservation Society – Stewarding Richmond’s Natural Legacy (gardencityconservation.ca)

2. Nearly 3 Billion Birds Gone | Birds, Cornell Lab of Ornithology (birds.cornell.edu/home/bring-birds-back)

3. The Miyawaki Method: An Introduction - Global Tree Initiative (plantgrowsave.org/the-miyawaki-method-an-introduction)

4. This is how tiny urban forests can boost biodiversity | World Economic Forum (weforum.org)

5. (PDF) Urban green spaces and their impact on environmental health: A Global Review (researchgate.net)

6. Fast-growing mini-forests spring up in Europe to aid climate | Trees and forests | The Guardian (theguardian.com)

Photo: Garden City Conservation Society.

Miyawaki #2, Terra Nova Rural Park, Richmond. Earth Day, April 2023

BY ADAM CLARKE

No More! No More!

Following an aphid infestation of epic proportions, our friend Adam Clarke is back with an update. Did he finally get rid of the little bastards? How did he do it? To read his original article first, check out F*ck, I Hate Aphids! in the Organic & Regenerative Issue of Garden Culture Magazine.

FGCMAG.co/UK57

or those who don’t remember, we had an aphid problem; when I say problem, I mean 100,000 aphids or more in our greenhouse. The issue came when one of the workers with less experience managed the greenhouse and failed to check for the bugs. We run a 12-month-a-year greenhouse with full lights and heating, so we don’t get a natural freeze cycle to kill off our aphids. As winter kept going, the aphid problem just kept getting worse.

We tried implementing procedures to kill the aphids or remove the worst plants. While it did help, the simplest solution was to kill all the plants and start again with a clean space. Of course, killing all the plants didn’t entirely obliterate the aphids. Those little guys are everywhere and manage to live and last longer than anticipated. The most significant step in guaranteeing you don’t get aphids again is ensuring you have killed off your ant problem. Ants are always my first sign that aphids are about to overrun my grow. If you see ants, treat that problem first.

After the mass removal of plants from the greenhouse, the remaining aphids started fighting back. We used three methods to keep the aphids at bay and prevent them from spreading.

1. We used “Bioceres” from Anatis, a fungus that the aphids like to eat. The aphids die after consuming, which is a great way to help mitigate the aphid population. Be warned that you need to keep applying and apply often. If you stop too soon, you will have wasted your efforts.

2. The second method is applying peppermint castile soap using a misting bottle. We mist our plants a couple of times a week when we have pest problems and add a few drops of soap to the bottle. The soap can encapsulate the aphids and eventually kill them off. The peppermint in the soap also acts as a deterrent to pests.

3. The third and final step to keeping the aphids out is to populate the greenhouse with ladybugs! We found that ladybugs do a great job managing the pests, create a little ecosystem, and are self-sustaining. We haven’t bought bugs in a while and are still aphid-free.

the simplest solution was to kill all the plants and start again with a clean space.

best friend; the alternative is killing your crop and waiting for a freeze. If you see ants, get them killed ASAP. After all this and figuring it out, I still f*cking hate aphids.

BIO

cultivation and processing facilities over the last seven years with Stratus. His projects involve outdoor cultivation, indoor cultivation, drying, processing, extraction, storage, bottling and packaging, and more. Living on a hobby farm, Adam loves all plants, including flowers, vegetables, and microgreens, but is most passionate about hemp and is in awe of the fast-growing plant and all of the benefits it offers to humans and the environment alike.

Powdery Mildew

A Quick Guide To Sanity

PM is a subtle intruder that quickly spreads throughout your entire garden

PM isn’t a single pathogen. We’re facing a host of fungal culprits—Golovinomyces, Erysiphe, and Podosphaera are some of the most common genera

Check the online growers’ forums, and you’ll see that powdery mildew (PM) is often driving indoor growers crazy. A faint, powdery white coating that’s typically first visible on fan leaves—PM is a subtle intruder that quickly spreads throughout your entire garden. The repercussions are significant, from diminished yields to compromised plant health, particularly for indoor growers cultivating intensively, such as microgreens.

What Is PM?

PM isn’t a single pathogen. We’re facing a host of fungal culprits— Golovinomyces, Erysiphe, and Podosphaera are some of the most common genera. These fungi share a hallmark: powdery, white growth on plant surfaces. Despite their superficial appearance, PM infections can reduce photosynthesis, drain nutrients, and, if left unchecked, destroy crops.

One common misconception is that PM is purely a surface problem. While many PM species, such as Golovinomyces cichoracearum, remain epiphytic (surface-only), some can penetrate plant tissues to extract nutrients. However, the systemic infections often mentioned are rare and speciesspecific. Overgeneralising can lead to confusion when diagnosing and managing this disease.

Why and When Does PM Strike?

PM spores are always lurking—airborne, on tools, in soil, or hitching a ride on your clothes. But they only get a foothold when environmental conditions are favourable. Moderate temperatures (60–80°F or 15–27°C) and high humidity (50–80%) create the perfect storm. Even more problematic is fluctuating humidity. For example, low humidity may desiccate leaf margins, while subsequent high humidity allows spores to germinate and spread.

Stress is another critical factor. Overfertilisation, particularly with nitrogen-heavy formulations, can make plants more vulnerable. Why? Excess nitrogen encourages soft, lush growth that’s easy for PM to colonise. Similarly, overcrowded plantings and poor airflow create stagnant microclimates where spores flourish.

Mother plants face unique risks. Long vegetative cycles, regular wounding from cuttings, and prolonged exposure to pathogens make them prime PM targets. Once infected, they can act as reservoirs, spreading spores to every clone and the following generation.

Spotting PM Early

PM often masquerades as other problems, like nutrient deficiencies, pest damage, or foliar spray residues. Early signs include:

• Small, white patches on leaves or stems.

• Yellowing or curling leaves as the infection progresses.

• A faint dusty appearance that wipes off easily (but returns quickly).

Symptoms may be subtle for crops like microgreens. Growers handling fast, dense plantings—like basil or cilantro—should pay close attention to early-stage discolouration or unusual growth patterns.

Crops at Risk

Certain plants are particularly vulnerable. Because they’re grown so densely, microgreens can fall foul, especially if grown to baby leaf stage—cilantro and basil growers pay attention! Other susceptible crops include tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and lettuce.

Organic DryPart®

and soil and soil and soil and soil and soil and soil and soil Brings magic to plants in one go

Some growers swear by milk sprays, baking soda solutions, or garlic-based treatments. While these can temporarily suppress PM, they’re no substitute for a comprehensive strategy

Prevention Strategies:

Building an Anti-PM Environment

The best way to deal with PM is to prevent it entirely. Here’s how:

Environmental Management

• Humidity Control:

Keep relative humidity stable and within crop-specific thresholds. While 40–50% is ideal for leafy greens often require higher humidity. Use hygrometers and automated controls to avoid fluctuations.

• Air Circulation:

Ensure consistent airflow with oscillating fans. Proper pruning and defoliation help eliminate dense areas where PM can hide. Avoid overcrowding plants, especially in propagation areas.

• Temperature Stability:

Maintain moderate temperatures and avoid sudden fluctuations that can stress plants.

Hygiene and Sanitation

• Disinfect Tools and Surfaces:

After each use, sterilise tools, pots, and propagation trays with a bleach solution or hydrogen peroxide. Don’t forget HVAC systems—clean filters and ducts regularly.

• Quarantine New Plants:

Even if a supplier appears reputable, isolate new arrivals for two weeks and inspect them thoroughly.

Resistant Varieties

Breeding for resistance is one of the most promising tools against PM. Look for resistant cultivars, particularly in cucumbers and tomatoes. Resistant strains won’t prevent infections entirely but can slow the spread and reduce damage.

Preventative Treatments

Sulphur Sprays:

Effective during early vegetative growth, but avoid using sulphur during flowering due to its impact on flavour and safety.

overcrowded plantings and poor airflow create stagnant microclimates where spores flourish

Potassium Bicarbonate:

You’ve Spotted PM: What Now?

If PM does take hold, quick and decisive action is essential:

Isolate Infected Plants:

Move infected plants away from healthy ones to contain the outbreak.

Prune Affected Areas:

Remove infected leaves and stems, bagging and discarding them far from your grow space. Never compost PM-infected material.

Apply Targeted Treatments:

Neem oil or biological fungicides can help suppress surface infections. However, avoid excessive reliance on fungicides— they don’t cure PM and can only slow its progression.

Environmental Adjustments:

Lower humidity and increase airflow to create an inhospitable environment for spores.

PM can sneak up on even the most vigilant growers. Regular inspections, proactive environmental management, and cleanliness are critical

Natural Remedies: Myth vs. Reality

Some growers swear by milk sprays, baking soda solutions, or garlic-based treatments. While these can temporarily suppress PM, they’re no substitute for a comprehensive strategy. Use them as a stopgap measure, not a primary solution.

Biocontrol Allies: Nature’s Fungal Defense

Beneficial microbes like Trichoderma and Ampelomyces quisqualis are excellent tools for managing PM. Trichoderma competes with pathogens, strengthens root systems, and boosts plant health. Meanwhile, A. quisqualis is a hyperparasite that targets PM specifically, feeding on its spores and reducing its spread.

Dos and Don’ts for PM Management

Don’t:

• Take cuttings from infected plants.

• Overfertilise with nitrogen-rich formulations.

• Ignore airflow and plant spacing.

• Assume fungicides can eliminate systemic infections.

Do:

• Inspect plants daily for early signs of PM.

• Sterilise tools, grow spaces, and HVAC systems regularly.

• Rotate mother plants frequently to reduce long-term risks.

• Use resistant cultivars and biocontrols as part of your integrated pest management (IPM) strategy.

Winning the Fight Against PM

PM can sneak up on even the most vigilant growers. Regular inspections, proactive environmental management, and cleanliness are critical. By understanding its systemic risks and adopting meticulous practices, growers can effectively manage and overcome this common challenge. 3

All·Mix® Peat Free provides growers with the most natural environment possible for plants to flourish throughout the year. Its heavily pre-fertilized content ensures all the best qualities found in a rich outdoor soil.

Light·Mix® Peat Free is designed to give growers maximum control of their grow cycles. It gets the vital micro activity going as the water works with the soil, producing organic catalysts that rapidly develop root structures.

BY JENNIFER COLE

Meet the Ecotypes:

Elevating the Native Plant Conversation

Sefra Alexandra

She’s called the Seed Huntress and is on a mission to restore the heirloom of the pollinator.

When Sefra Alexandra, aka the Seed Huntress, talks about restoring the “heirloom of the pollinator,” she’s referring to the plants pollinators like bees, moths, wasps, and butterflies fertilise through their natural activities. But not just any plants – the Seed Huntress is interested in those sub-species of native plants that have developed to meet the needs of their particular environment, such as soil conditions, weather extremes, and the rhythm of the nature around them, including pollinators. They are native plants on an overdrive that science calls ecotypes [1]

They are native plants on an overdrive that science calls ecotypes

“Ecotypes are genetically distinct populations of plants, animals, and organisms found in a particular habitat that has specific adaptations to the local environment,” Alexandra explains.

Unfortunately, roadways, manicured lawns, natural disasters, and climate change have increasingly removed ecotypic plants from the landscape and deprived pollinators of food and nesting sites.

For the past six years, Alexandra, co-founder of the Connecticut-based Ecotype Project, has worked to change this by building and mentoring a community of scientists, farmers, and landowners throughout Ecoregion 59 in the Northeast United States. Their mandate is to collect the seeds from native, hyperlocal plants [2][3]

Along with Dina Brewster, co-founder of the organisation, they have come to understand that reduced pollinator populations may be a seed problem caused by the lack of ecotypical plant material along pollinator pathways.

There can be no underestimating the importance of ecotypic plants to the landscape, as the story of the milkweed and endangered monarch butterfly illustrates. Milkweed is found throughout North America, growing by the side of the road, wildflower meadows, and gardens. It is the only plant on which the monarch will lay its eggs, making it critically important for the insect’s survival. Milkweed ecotypes in the natural environment have evolved to bloom in sync with the butterflies’ annual migration from Canada to California and Mexico and back again [4]

If milkweed that is non-indigenous to a particular area finds its way onto the landscape via a commercial seed packet or seedlings from a nursery, the plant will be off-kilter with its surroundings. This situation can have dire consequences. It may bloom too early before the butterflies arrive or too late, disrupting the insects’ migration and breeding patterns.

As the “Seed Huntress,” Alexandra is excited that the work of the Ecotype Project aligns with the United States National Seed Strategy managed by the US Department of the Interior’s Bureau of Land Management and its goal to preserve seeds for ecological restoration as a response to mounting ecological disturbances, including wildfires, habitat destruction, and the impacts of climate change [5]

“Before the National Seed Strategy, there was no backup of ecotypical material,” she explains. Now, seed networks across the US are being formed to preserve local seeds.

Creating a Template

The seed-collecting and propagation model developed by the Ecotype Project is designed to be a template for other seedcollecting and native plant groups throughout the northeast corner of the US and beyond.

After the Ecotype Project volunteers hike through meadows, woodlands, and marshes to collect seeds, the seeds are cleaned, dried, and planted in “founder plots” on regional organic farms. When the seeds ripen, they are collected and distributed.

After the Ecotype Project volunteers hike through meadows, woodlands, and marshes to collect seeds, the seeds are cleaned, dried, and planted in “founder plots” on regional organic farms

Some go to farmers to plant pollinator habitats, others to gardeners and conservation groups. Some seeds are replanted in the areas where they were initially collected or go to local nurseries that grow them into saleable plants.

The results are incredible once the right plant has found its proper place.

“It’s as if the insect life has been waiting in the wasteland of the lawn and degraded landscapes,” Alexandra says.

Once the plants they require for nectar grow, pollinators come in droves. Only a few plants can have the desired effect. For example, a couple of ecotypic milkweed plants by a mailbox is enough to connect pollinator pathways.

A Seat for Everyone

How do home gardeners find ecotypic plants? It’s not always easy, explains Tyler Refsland, the manager of applied ecology for the non-profit organisation Wild Seed Project in Maine [6]

Often, native plants available in garden centres were propagated thousands of miles away and haven’t evolved through successive generations of open pollination to the characteristics of the landscape they are transplanted into.

Agreeing that the ideal is to have ecotypes, Refsland offers a caveat. He suggests taking a broad approach. For example, a plant for a garden in Maine that comes from Massachusetts or Pennsylvania, where similar soil and climate conditions exist, still has ecological service for pollinators. Refsland recommends avoiding cultivars or nativar plants propagated from tissue, not seed, that are genetically altered to have bigger blooms or sweeter aromas. These plants look beautiful but have not evolved naturally. Therefore, they lack genetic diversity and often have no resilience to withstand local environmental stresses.

Alexandra suggests asking local garden centres and big box nurseries if they carry ecotypic plants and seeds. If more people ask the question, the nursery will likely want to meet the demand

To encourage the spread and restoration of ecotypic seeds and plants, the Wild Seed Project is building a first-of-its-kind Native Seed Centre at Maine’s Cape Elizabeth Land Trust’s Turkey Hill Farm. Plants will grow among nature in living seed banks scattered throughout woodlands, marshes, and meadows. This gives them their best shot at evolving and adapting to a rapidly changing and unpredictable climate. The urgency of the situation encourages this model for ecotypes.

NatureServe, a network of governmental and non-governmental conservation professionals in the United States and Canada, reports that in 2023, 34% of plants and 40% of animals were at risk of extinction in the United States [7]

Alexandra suggests asking local garden centres and big box nurseries if they carry ecotypic plants and seeds. If more people ask the question, the nursery will likely want to meet the demand.

“We all have a role to play as caretakers and stewards and have a seat at the table of ecological restoration,” the Seed Huntress says. 3

Footnotes:

1. Tech Note: What are Plant Ecotypes (nrcs.usda.gov)

2. Home | The Ecotype Project (ecotypeproject.org)

3. Ecoregions of North America | US EPA (epa.gov)

4. Monarch Butterfly Habitat Needs (fs.usda.gov)

5. National Seed Strategy | Bureau of Land Management (blm.org)

6. Wild Seed Project (wildseedproject.net)

7. Over One-third of Biodiversity in the United States is at Risk of Disappearing | NatureServe (natureserve.org)

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Most Common The 5

Have you grown more mould than mushrooms? More flies than fungi? Is your mycelium misbehaving? Or perhaps it never started growing in the first place?

Mushroom growers get to know these problems well, and many give up after wasting lots of time and money on failed grows. Many wannabe mycologists tell me they haven’t even bothered trying for fear of contamination, insects, or other growing fails.

Worry not, mushroom lover. I’m here to help you find success in your grows!

Edible and medicinal mushroom cultivation can be a very fruitful hobby – or even business, for those who’ve done their market research. Once the correct conditions are dialled in and growers know the warning signs to look for, they can enjoy some tasty rewards.

While both beginners and pros face problems occasionally, this article will give you the best tools to avoid the common issues mushroom growers face – and tell you exactly what to do if they come your way.

This article is primarily concerned with container growing, but some advice will also apply to outdoor log-inoculation.

1. Contamination

Every mushroom grower will have encountered Trichoderma mould at some point on their journey (it’s the green stuff you’ll find on that forgotten loaf of bread). A rainbow of other moulds are floating around, and bacterial contamination is common. While contaminated media often can’t be ‘fixed’, there are many ways to avoid it in the first place.

Mushrooms grow in wet and warm conditions – like mould (a type of fungi) and bacteria. Many mushroom-growing mediums are nutritious and sterile – which means an open house to any spores or bacteria that happen to be passing by. With up to 10,000 spores in every cubic metre of air, it’s unsurprising that there’s a bit of competition around.

Wash your hands, sanitise tools, and work in as clean an environment as possible.

Signs of Contamination

• Green, black, red (or pretty much any colour that isn’t white) patches on grain, substrate or mycelium. This is mould. More rarely, you will find cobweb mould that looks like a greyish cloud on the surface of a growing medium.

• Sludgy and uncolonised patches on grain or substrate. This is bacterial contamination.

• A sour and unpleasant odour.

What isn’t Contamination?

• Mushroom metabolites can look like drops of urine (that’s kind of what it is) on the surface of a substrate or spawn bag. This is a natural byproduct of the mushroom’s metabolic process and is perfectly fine.

• White cobwebby structures within a substrate are mycelium, which is commonly confused with cobweb mould (which is greyer and grows on top of a substrate).

How to Avoid

Do mushroom ‘work’ in clean conditions

This is especially important in the early stages of mushroom growth when using sterile grain, sub strates and cultures. Wash your hands, sanitise tools, and work in as clean an environment as pos sible. Professional growers often use HEPA air filters to do this – but you can achieve pretty good sterility inside a homemade ‘Still-Air-Box’.

Mushroom-Growing problems

Avoid Them

Check how to make a Still-Air-Box in our “Grow with the Flow” edition!

Keep your growing space clean and well-controlled

Choose a growing area that isn’t prone to mould. Clean your growing space regularly. If you’re using a closed growing environment like a fruiting chamber, consider carbon filters for the in-flow of air.

Use high-quality spawn and cultures

Contamination when growing indoors often stems from poorly produced grain spawn (or whatever else you’re using to make mushroom ‘seeds’). Use sterile grain from reputable suppliers if you’re buying it, or autoclave for enough time and at a high enough pressure if you’re making your own.

Similarly, it is difficult to tell if a liquid culture or spore syringe is contaminated before use. This is another thing to get from reputable vendors or make for yourself. If you use agar, it’s always a good idea to test a culture or grow some spores on a Petri dish before using it on lots of expensive grain.

Get conditions right

Growing temperatures that are too high can encourage contamination, as can overly wet substrate or grain. Check the needs of the species you are growing and try to get things just right.

What to Do if you Get Contamination

If you find contamination inside a container, you will likely need to throw away your grow, wash your equipment well, and start again. If you catch mould contamination early on, it is possible to kill off spores by spraying the area with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. I have had limited success with this approach.

If you have other growing containers, it is essential to isolate any contaminated substrates as soon as you catch them so they do not spread. Do not open contaminated containers inside your growing environment!

Do not open contaminated containers inside your growing environment!

2. Slow Colonisation or ‘Stalled’ Grows

The second most regular cause of heartbreak for hopeful growers. They’ve bought all the right equipment, followed their instructions and built a Breaking Bad-level laboratory to avoid contamination. Then, the weeks go by, and very little happens. Perhaps they see a little mycelium growing, or none at all. Some see a positive start, and then everything… stops. This can be devastating after all the effort of getting a grow on.

How to Avoid

Colonise in optimal and consistent temperatures

Mushrooms have specific environmental requirements to grow well, including temperature, humidity, light, and airflow. At the colonisation stage, temperature is often the variable people don’t get right. Many growers with ‘stalling’ issues have containers in areas with too low or fluctuating temperatures, which can inhibit growth and stress the mycelium, destroying a potentially beautiful crop of mushrooms.

If you live in colder areas, an inexpensive greenhouse heater and temperature controller (I use an ‘Inkbird’) is likely to up your growing game and minimise ‘stalling’. Check the optimum growing temperature for the species you are cultivating and just dial it in.

A word of warning about lizard heat mats, which many use directly under mushroom-growing containers: these can burn or dry out the areas they touch. A good rule is to heat your growing space, not the container itself, so I am a fan of the greenhouse heater approach. If you intend to use a heat mat, put spacers between it and your growing containers.

Keep colonising spawn and substrates in ‘underground’ conditions Avoid bringing your colonising containers into the light more than you need to. This is difficult when you want to compulsively check on your mycelium babies (I’ve been there), but it can confuse the fungus about its growth stage. Keep containers closed to avoid changes in climate, and check through the sides of the container every five days or so before returning it to its underground home.

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Make sure your mycelium has access to a small amount of air. This can be through the cracks in a tub or filter patches on a mushroom-growing bag. Mycelium must breathe a small amount – even when ‘underground’ - or it will suffocate.

What to Do if You Get Slow or Stalled Grows

Do your research about the specific species you are growing and dial in the optimal conditions for them ASAP. Then sit back and cross your fingers that you’re not too late. If you notice sludgy, uncolonised patches forming on your grain or substrate, this is likely to be bacterial contamination. This happens regularly when things have been sitting uncolonised for some time. Remove the container from your growing space, bin the contents, pray to the mushroom gods and get ready to start again.

3. Low (or No) Mushroom Yields

You’ve avoided contamination and nurtured your vibrant white block of mycelium into the world. Now it’s time to birth it and harvest the many fruits, right?

For some, the promised mushrooms just don’t start growing at this stage, and others get much less than expected.

How to Avoid

Simulate consistent fruiting conditions

Most mushrooms need high humidity and fresh air exchange to grow well at the fruiting stage. You can achieve this by wafting the substrate regularly with a book and spraying the inside of your container with a water mister. Optimising light and humidity (using automated fogger units and daylight-level LEDs) is optional but will give you more consistency in your grows.

Check the right fruiting conditions for the species of mushroom you are growing

Some mushrooms need slightly different air exchange or humidity to grow well. Certain species need more time than others to start fruiting. Some also need a ‘casing layer’ (usually vermiculite) on top of the substrate to fruit well.

Individual species have their quirks, so it’s worth doing your research. For example, king oyster mushroom mycelium can benefit from a night in the fridge to trigger mushroom growth, while some shiitake growers drop their blocks to simulate a tree falling in the forest and stimulate fruiting!

Choose the right substrate

Use a substrate that matches your mushroom species. For example, hardwood sawdust is ideal for shiitake, while straw works well for oyster mushrooms. Add supplements like bran or gypsum to boost nutrients, but be cautious, as over-supplementation can lead to contamination.

Hydrate correctly

Ensure the substrate has the right water content, often called “field capacity.” Squeeze the substrate; if only a few drops of water come out, it has a good moisture level.

“Perhaps your mushrooms don’t look right – squishy, malformed, furry or too long.”

4. Poor-quality mushrooms

Perhaps your mushrooms don’t look right – squishy, malformed, furry or too long. Often, this doesn’t mean they’re inedible (although I would ditch the squishy ones as these likely died a while ago). Still, it’s satisfying to grow something beautiful.

Low-potency crops are a more pressing issue for many growers. This can be due to genetics, but often, it is due to improper processing after harvest.

How to avoid

Ensure correct fruiting conditions

Furry-bottomed mushrooms often lack consistent airflow. Similarly, ‘leggy’ oyster mushrooms crave more fresh air exchange. Lots of ‘aborts’ (small, squishy, dead mushrooms) are sometimes a sign of stagnant moisture on the mushrooms, which could also be due to poor air exchange.

Check your Genetics

‘Mutant’ or other low-quality mushrooms can be caused by bad genetics. Get your mushroom cultures from a reputable supplier. Try to get liquid cultures if you can, as strong genetics will (hopefully) have already been selected. Spore syringes can give more random results.

Harvest and process mushrooms well

The best moment to pick many mushrooms is when the ‘veil’ breaks between the stem and the cap. With oyster mushrooms, it is when the cap opens but before it goes concave. Check out the best time to harvest the variety you are growing.

Consuming or processing mushrooms as soon as possible after harvest is essential to retain potency. For long-term storage, I recommend dehydrating at 70°C until cracker-dry, then storing them in an airtight container with silica gel sachets as an extra precaution. Keep them in the dark—or store your dried mushrooms in the freezer if you’re keen.

I have had a few full-on infestations in my home, and I’m not going to sugar-coat it - it’s pretty disgusting

5. Fungus Gnats

Many mushroom growers will be too familiar with the ‘fungus gnat’ – a fly that loves mushroom substrate and other wet soil. Once they get into a growing environment, they multiply very quickly, and their tiny, winged bodies can travel easily between growing containers and house plants. I have had a few full-on infestations in my home, and I’m not going to sugar-coat it - it’s pretty disgusting.

The upside is that fungus gnats don’t seem very interested in mushrooms themselves, so if you can bear them or keep them at bay until harvest day, you’ll still get some food for your dinner.

How to Avoid

Keep your growing space clean

Bits of nutritious debris can attract fungus gnats and other flies. Minimise these as much as possible. If growing at home, keep your living space as clean as possible, especially during warmer months.

Seal entry points

You can check out Alex’s latest on line course, ‘Growing Mushrooms on Pre-Cooked Rice’ here: GCMAG.co/GYOM

A separate grow room or contained space like a fruiting chamber can give you some control over what goes in, especially if you use

Set up traps

Sticky fly traps can work as a preventative measure – and to reduce populations if you start getting an infestation.

What

to

Do if You Get an Infestation

Take infested containers out of your grow room and consider sealing off cracks in other containers so rogue gnats can’t get in and lay their eggs.

One trick that works well for house plants (and reportedly for some mushroom containers, too) is introducing scariad nematodes. You can add the eggs of these microscopic worms into the water and soak the growing medium in it. Over a few weeks, this can kill off the flies and their eggs – if you can hang on for that long. 3

Alex loves empowering people to grow their own food and medicine. He has taught over 6,000 students worldwide to cultivate mushrooms at home. Stay tuned for more specific guides from Alex in future issues of Garden Culture Magazine. Follow on Instagram: @fungi_tribe 3

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Plant-Care is Self-Care!

The month of love is upon us, and while many like to get cosy with someone special, others are getting up close and personal with their plants! And why not? Studies continue to show that spending time in a garden boosts mental health and overall well-being.

Think about it; our relationships with our gardens are similar to those with people. In this edition, Everest Fernandez writes about how selecting clones is much like using a dating app. In another article, Xavi Kief compares successful crop selection and plant rearing to dating and making new friends. There is so much we can learn about our relationships with ourselves and others through plants, a concept explored by Kamili Bell Hill in her book Happy Plants, Happy You. This book crosses between a self-help or self-care book and a growing guide. Bell Hill focuses on houseplants, but the same rules apply to any garden you grow, whether indoors or outdoors, edible, ornamental, or edimental! Plants can help us in more ways than we can imagine; here’s how Bell Hill says caring for them can lead to self-worth and love!

Establishing a daily routine of walking through your garden and observing your plants is a ritual that’s also good for the soul.

Plant-Care = Self-Care

Establishing a daily routine of walking through your garden and observing your plants is a ritual that’s also good for the soul. While you check for new growth, moisture levels, and potential issues, Bell Hill recommends connecting with yourself to see how you feel mentally and physically. Time with your garden is time spent away from errands and emails. Press pause and nurture yourself by leaning into this wonderful hobby! As your plants grow, you will too.

There is so much we can learn about our relationships with ourselves and others through plants

Water Yourself

Bell Hill breaks down one of the simplest things we can do to improve our mental and physical health: drink plenty of water! Plants need water to survive, and so do you! Studies show that our brain function improves when we drink fluids daily. Toxins are flushed from our bodies, and our overall physical well-being is boosted. Picture a thirsty, drooping plant; people are droopy, too, when they’re not caring for themselves properly. Feeling good in your skin and mental clarity are crucial to self-love, so grab a watering can …er, we mean water bottle… and hydrate!

The Art of Letting Go

Moving on from toxic relationships is crucial to our overall well-being. Bell Hill writes that plants can remind us of valuable lessons, many of which we carry to our relationships with others. Do you have a high-maintenance plant that never seems happy? Let it go. What about any crops that seem to take but never reciprocate? Cut them loose; it’s so over. Accepting that you won’t always find a perfect match in the garden is practical for how you look at relationships, too!

Build Community

One of the secrets to longevity in the Blue Zones is a sense of community and connection with others. Join community gardens or online discussions with other growers; connecting with others will help you feel valued and contribute to your self-care routine! 3

For more good gardening and self-care advice, grab a copy of Happy Plants, Happy You: A Plant-Care & Self-Care Guide for the Modern Houseplant Parent by Kamili Bell Hill (@plantblerd ).

Soil is missing from our diets. We’re not talking about heaping tablespoons of the stuff scattered over salads and into soups. But passive exposure to minimal quantities on our food and environment frequently made its way into our bodies when we lived closer to the land, potentially keeping us healthier and diversifying the microbial populations that inhabited our bodies.

Does soil belong on the dietary health plate? Does its inclusion come with any risks we need to consider? And how exactly should we invite soil life back into our bodies?

Soil

as a Probiotic Part of the Human Diet

Now, many of us can go years without intentionally touching the soil. Urbanised environments and industrialism mean most of us spend our time indoors in technological bubbles that insulate us from the complex microbial life in the ground. Whereas farm-fresh food works as a vector of soil particles and their associated microbes into the gut, the rise of ultraprocessed items has also sanitised our food chain to a degree, meaning we receive fewer beneficial microbes with every bite.

So, does soil belong on the dietary health plate? Does its inclusion come with any risks we need to consider? And how exactly should we invite soil life back into our bodies? Let’s find out together!

Soil: An Important Component of the Human Environment

Soil is essential in developing the human microbiome, serving as a source of beneficial gut microbes. Researchers have found functional similarities between soil life and the human gut (1). Historically, several human cultures have engaged in geophagy, the intentional ingestion of soil. Even in cultures where this practice didn’t exist, populations routinely consumed small quantities of soil—and the massive amounts of microbes attached—that clung to potatoes, carrots, and other vegetables.

The contemporary view of soil doesn’t give this substance the respect it deserves. Many of us view it as something entirely separate from our bodies, as something impractical that dirties our clothes. Modern agricultural practices often ignore and exploit life in the soil, blitzing it with chemical fertilisers and herbicides and placing profits on proliferation. However, soil is part of humans’ natural habitat (2). We’re supposed to maintain close contact with it and eat plants grown on soil together with soil microbes.

Studies show that removing an animal from its natural environment almost always produces adverse effects. These include weakened immunity, increased disease susceptibility, behavioural changes, and a reduced lifespan. Our loss of connection to the soil has isolated us from a critical component of our natural habitat, and our health is taking a toll.

The Problem: We’ve Lost Our Connection to the Life in the Soil

Researchers from the University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, Austria, have described soil and human gut microbiomes as “superorganisms” (2). In their view, these systems are designed to be in close contact, replenishing each other with inoculants, genes, and growth-sustaining molecules. Remove the soil “superorganism”, and the gut “superorganism” doesn’t work as it should.

According to Rosland and colleagues at the Natural Resources Institute in Finland, the human genome has adapted to complex molecular signals produced by diverse populations of microbes in the gut (1). The loss of these microbes and their unique signals could disrupt vital pathways in the human body, including the immune and endocrine systems.

This team has also collected and reviewed research showing a correlation between urbanisation, biodiversity loss, and the prevalence of chronic inflammatory diseases. Their analysis of the available literature suggests that soil-bound microorganisms could be key to immune regulation and mental health.

Although we co-evolved with these microbes in our huntergatherer and agrarian past, we’ve lost our relationship with these “old friends”. Some soil-derived allies include Mycobacterium, which has anti-inflammatory properties, and Streptomyces, which can regulate the immune system.

Soil microbes are essential for human health. But how should we re-establish this recently severed age-old connection?

The Solution: How To Restore Your Connection To Nature’s Microbial Kingdom

Before you decide to take up the practice of geophagy, know that soil poses some real dangers to human health. Many modern soils are polluted with heavy metals and pesticides; even natural organic soils harbour dangerous pathogens and parasites. Researchers are working on the technology required to produce safe probiotic soil mixtures. But you don’t need to wait for them to figure this out to reencounter soil and re-introduce its associated microbes in your microbiome.

“Soil is missing from our diets.”

Spend More Time In Your Garden

Direct contact with soil influences the human gut microbiome. One teaspoon of the stuff contains billions of microorganisms. You don’t need a big growing space to develop a close connection with soil microbes; even a couple of planters on a balcony provide a good opportunity.

Research shows that gardening families possess greater gut microbe diversity throughout the growing season (3). After examining faecal samples, scientists found soil endemic microbes, suggesting the transfer of this organism from the soil into the human gut.

Another study also demonstrated that merely touching soil throughout the day increases bacterial diversity on the skin and gut (4). Likewise, data also shows that children exposed to soil while playing outdoors possess biomarkers that indicate improved immunomodulation (5)

Aim To Build Living Soil

Not all soil is equal. Chemical fertilisers, herbicides, and excess tillage reduce the soil’s microbial diversity. However, you can help the fungal and bacterial population in your garden thrive using simple techniques. Adopt a no-till approach, regularly apply compost, and make your simple bioinoculants such as lactic acid bacteria, compost tea, and JADAM microbial solution.

Buy Local Organic Food

You’re not just consuming macronutrients, vitamins, and minerals while eating healthy food. Organically grown produce also serves as a vector of soil-associated microbes that live on and in leaves, roots, and fruits. Try to find local farms that utilise organic and living soil practices for food higher in beneficial microbes grown in soils teaming with life.

Take A Walk In the Forest

If you don’t feel like working in the garden on a particular day, simply walking in nature can inoculate you with beneficial microbes. Spending time amongst the trees will expose you to the aerobiome of forests—the communities of organisms in woodland air. These creatures are derived from the soil and are recognised for their health-promoting properties (6) .

Build an Environment That Benefits Your Microbiome

Separation from the soil has removed a crucial part of our natural habitat from the lives of many. The soil doesn’t only serve as a growing medium for our food; it contains a superorganism that synergises with our bodies and minds. We developed with these microbes, and our bodies require their chemical signals to operate correctly. Thankfully, the simple act of gardening frequently exposes us to soil and allows us to grow food that contains an abundance of probiotic life. Gardening serves as a bridge that gives our old friends access to our skin, gut, and airways, where they enable us to become fully human. 3

Footnotes:

• besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/ pan3.10638

• mdpi.com/2076-2607/7/9/287?affiliateid=4/1000

• nature.com/articles/s41598-022-05387-5

• tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2217/fmb-2017-0286

• sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/ S0147651322007400

• sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/ S0966842X23001300

BIO Luke has been a horticulture writer for over 10 years, covering soil science, cultivation, plant nutrition, integrated pest management, and organic practices. Fascinated by natural processes, he spends much of his time reading the latest scientific research on how microbes can help humanity grow better food without using chemicals. He’s growing produce in the north of England using a no-dig approach and homemade organic inputs.

Citrus How to Control Leafminer

One of the most common pest problems we face when growing our favourite citrus trees is leafminer attack. What damage does it cause, and how can we control this pest organically?

Citrus Leafminer ( Phyllocnistis citrella ) is native to eastern and southern Asia and is the only leafminer that attacks citrus in Australia. However, it is a problem wherever citrus fruits are grown, including northern and central Africa, Brazil, Spain, Mexico, and Florida. The adult is a small silvery-white moth. However, it’s the larvae that cause damage by attacking young leaves.

The adult is a small silvery-white moth. However, it’s the larvae that cause damage by attacking young leaves

What is their life cycle?

The life cycle starts with adult Citrus Leafminers, tiny moths about 2mm long with a wingspan of just 4mm. Moths are rarely seen because they tend to fly at night unless a tree is heavily infested or foliage is disturbed. The Citrus Leafminer has an average life cycle of 14-17 days (depending on temperature) with up to 15 generations a year.

Female moths lay up to 20 eggs at night after mating and can produce 50+ eggs in their short lives. The eggs are flat, oval and translucent. Just 0.3mm long, they resemble miniature water droplets on the underside of leaves. Look for them along the midrib at the base of the young leaf. Moths prefer to lay on newly emerged sap-rich leaves 1-2cm wide. The eggs can hatch in just a day during summer.

The tiny larva (caterpillar) wastes no time! It starts eating and burrowing into the leaf as soon as it’s born. These insects tunnel through the leaf, feeding on sap, disrupting the cells and leaving a distinctive papery, thin raised trail 50-100mm long. Their ‘mines’ fill with air, causing a shiny appearance – like a silvery tunnel in a leaf ‘sandwich’. Each larva lives inside one leaf for its whole life. So you’ll never see them on the upper or underside.

When larvae have finished eating, they form a pupal chamber or cocoon by spinning a thread from their mouthparts. This is usually hidden in the protected rolled edge of the leaf, where the adult moth emerges. Most live for less than seven days, although some can survive up to 160 days.

How do I know if I have a problem?

Look for visual evidence. The damage leafminer larvae cause is easy to identify. The first clues are windy ‘mines’ or silvery trails in immature new leaves on the underside. They have a distinctive central line because they excrete as they eat! As they continue mining, their movement causes the leaves to twist, curl and eventually become deformed. This is the next clue to watch for. As the damage becomes more extensive, leaves will tend to curl over at the edges where the pupae are hiding. The entire stem or branch may become infested and deformed if action is not taken. In severe cases, leaves may also drop off the tree.

Which plants does the citrus leafminer affect?

This species specifically targets all citrus trees. However, oranges, lemons and mandarins are particularly impacted. The larvae are only able to survive by eating through citrus leaves. If you notice a leafminer pattern on a non-citrus tree, this will be a different leafminer species. The target is often new leaf growth, which is soft, tender and sappy. However, bigger mature leaves can also be attacked. New shoots in summer or after pruning/hedging are vulnerable to attack.

How concerned should I be?

Young trees, including immature potted citrus, can be badly affected. The leaves are vital for photosynthesis and growth before fruit production can begin. So, curled leaves reduce the tree’s ability to produce energy through photosynthesis, slowing its development. Severe infestations in a young citrus tree can reduce the yield or stunt growth. Citrus trees that are 5+ years old may have unsightly visual damage, but they tend to be able to sustain this injury without significant yield losses. Infected leaves also open pathways for serious bacterial diseases like Citrus Canker ( Xanthomonas citri ). The faster you observe, diagnose and treat the problem, the better.

When can I expect Citrus Leafminer damage to occur?

Severe infestations only usually occur during late summer and autumn. This is when new growth flushes appear, and leafminer natural predator numbers are lower. Citrus Leafminer populations are typically low after cool winter weather, so they are less of a problem in early spring. Their numbers usually build up around October after the initial flush of new growth has hardened. During December-January, activity increases with early summer growth. The peak season is January to March, with a flush of new growth common, particularly after seasonal rains. From late April, as the weather starts to cool, parasitic insect enemy populations have increased, and citrus leaf growth has reduced, so the numbers drop off significantly. While it is possible to see some minor damage during winter, the problem is usually non-existent during spring. I keep a record of seasonal patterns in my Garden Journal. This helps me tailor my pest control strategies to my local climate conditions and minimise damage.

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Citrus LeafminerPhyllocnistis citrella

Phyllocnistis citrella

The first clues are windy ‘mines’ or silvery trails in immature new leaves on the underside

Organic Control Methods and Strategies

It’s essential to understand the life cycle of this insect pest so we treat it at the right stage of development. Once eggs hatch and larvae burrow into the shelter of the internal leaf tissue, they are protected from sprays. As the insect pupates, they are also shel tered by the edge of the rolled leaf. It’s best to treat the leaves before the eggs are laid to minimise populations getting started!

Curled distorted leaf and silver trails of the Citrus Leafminer

1. Time Tree Maintenance: Some critical management strategies relate to timing pruning, fertilising and watering activities. The goal is to minimise new vulnerable leaf growth when Citrus Leafminer populations are highest. In my subtropical climate, I do this by:

• Fertilising in late winter (July) to encourage strong spring growth in August/September. This is a time of year when numbers are low and gives trees a chance to flourish with new growth. Older, mature leaves are stronger and less attractive to leafminers.

• Pruning new growth flushes during high infestation times.

• Avoiding overfertilising or overwatering to encourage excessive new growth during peak population times like January-March. Apply slow-release nutrients like compost or worm castings that don’t tend to trigger a flush of new leaves, like commercial fertilisers high in nitrogen.

• Making the garden attractive to natural enemies, including parasitic wasps and lacewings, by avoiding chemicals and planting flowers as supplementary food sources.

it’s vital to act early to protect new shoots before moths can lay many eggs. Spraying young citrus trees (<5 years old) is essential when new growth is about 1-2 cm long. Then reapply every 2-3 weeks, especially in January to March. I stop spraying once the leaves have hardened off and the surface is resistant to attack.

3. Pruning: Snip off any affected leaves (especially curled ones) that may be hiding pupae. Disinfect secateurs to avoid spreading eggs that may hatch or larvae hitchhikers. Bin infected leaves or solarise them in a plastic bag in the hot sun. Avoid adding them to the compost. Prune suckers from the trunk that appear below the graft or water sprouts that develop on branches. This helps reduce the number of unnecessary new leaves that can provide potential egg-laying sites.

4. Pheromone Traps: These are a very effective strategy to reduce the male moth population and minimise their ability to mate successfully with females. I’ve used the Eco-CLM sticky trap with great success. The pheromone bait is added to the trap surface and then hung in the citrus tree. The aroma invites the boys to the ‘brewery’! At least they die happy. This strategy minimises the population of pregnant moth mothers, reducing the potential for damage.

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Another strategy I use involves attracting natural enemies to the garden.

The beneficial predatory insect green lacewing

Biological Control (IPM) by Natural Enemies

Avoid using chemicals in the garden for these controls to work. Unsustainable use of broad-spectrum insecticides has led to an increase in leafminer populations and many other pests. Research in Spain(1) found that banning insecticide use “led to an increase in the abundance and importance of the complex of generalist predators that inhabit the citrus canopy.” Home gardeners must encourage a population of beneficial insects that naturally help keep Citrus Leafminers and many other pest insects in check.

Parasitoids

According to the Australian Centre for International Agricultural Research, approximately 50 species of natural enemies “have been reported to attack the citrus leafminer, many of which are chalcid wasps.” (2)

Several introduced parasitic wasps (Citrostichus phyllocnistoides, Cirrospilus quadristriatus and Ageniaspis citricola) help control Citrus Leafminer by attacking the larva. The native wasp, S e -

References:

mielacher petiolatus performs the same role. Other native Australian parasitic wasps include Cirrospilus ingenuus, Sympiesis sp. and Zaommomentedon brevipetiolatus . There are also some parasitoid flies (Diptera).

How do they kill the leafminers? It’s a bit of a graphic horror story. These parasitic wasps lay their eggs inside or on top of the larva’s body or inside the leaf tunnel. The larva becomes a living host for the wasp’s egg. When it hatches, the wasp larva eats the leafminer larva, killing it, emerges as an adult wasp and ends the life cycle. These beneficial ‘pest managers’ help regulate numbers to keep populations in balance.

Parasitic wasp species numbers can be incredibly effective in a healthy ecosystem without chemicals. In Queensland, the introduced wasp species Ageniaspis citricola can parasitise up to 90% of Citrus Leafminer larvae by February-March when their populations increase! What an army to have onside.

Predators: Green and brown Lacewings are predatory insects that also tackle this pest. By observing the emergence of Citrus Leafminer in our gardens and applying some of these organic and biological controls, we can limit the damage of this pest and enjoy the fruits of our labours. 3

1. Mansour et al. (2021). Biological control of the citrus leafminer 25 years after its introduction in the Valencia citrus growing area (Spain): A new player in the game. Biological Control. 155. 104529. 10.1016/j.biocontrol.2020.104529.

2. Citrus leafminer fact sheet. Pacific Pests, Pathogens & Weedshttps://apps.lucidcentral.org/pppw_v10/text/web_full/entities/citrus_leafminer_240.htm

BIO

Anne Gibson, The Micro Gardener, is an author, speaker and urban garden community educator on the Sunshine Coast, in Queensland, Australia. Anne is passionate about inspiring people to improve health and wellbeing, by growing nutrient-dense food gardens in creative containers and small spaces. Anne regularly presents workshops, speaks at sustainable living events, coaches private clients and teaches community education classes about organic gardening and ways to live sustainably. She has authored several eBooks and gardening guides. Anne shares organic gardening tips and tutorials to save time, money and energy on her popular website - TheMicroGardener.com

Phyllocnistis citrella larva

Phyllocnistis citrella pupa

How a Vibrant, Diverse Community in the Soil Protects Your Plants (and the Planet)

Growing in living soil is a means to achieving bountiful harvests. This substrate provides abundant and available nutrition to plants and provides (literally!) a foundation for the holistic management of pest pressures that reduce the quality and quantity of yields.

Integrated pest management involves creating a cultivation setting where the chosen species thrive. Aiming to build the most economically and environmentally accountable relationships we can with the land and our co-inhabitants, effective IPM strategies take patience, care, and trust.

Living Soil works as IPM because it supports balance

Living Soil works as IPM because it supports balance. Even while pests are not entirely excluded or eliminated, it’s less likely their populations will boom unexpectedly when the existing conditions are tailored to others that feed on them or compete more successfully for resources.

The Plants’ Roles

Showy flowers encourage pollinators to visit blooms, assisting plants in breeding and ensuring their survival. Throughout their evolution, plants also developed generally more subtle (to humans) ways of attracting and supporting insect and microbial ‘helpers’ to protect them from pests. These include sharing the products of photosynthesis (energy-rich food) and hosting endophytic microbes within their bodies.

In living soil, plants’ relationships with microbes improve access to nutrients, substrate structure, and a web of other interactions that favour positive outcomes. Healthy plants have more energy to develop their own natural phytomechanical and phytochemical defences, like trichomes, sticky or repellant-smelling oils, and thick, bite-resistant leaf coatings. By exposure to certain soil fungi, like some Trichoderma species, plants attune their immune systems to be primed for exposure to others, like botrytis and fusarium, which would be more destructive. When plants are cut down and allowed to decompose in place, rain washing their phytochemicals into the soil, a zone of non-beneficial exclusion is maintained.

Earthworms and Other Soil-Dwellers

Well-structured soil favours air exchange, discouraging the overpopulation of root rot and wilt-causing microbes. While on their travels, worms excavate tunnels through the earth and digest an omnivorous diet. They break down dead material into smaller particles that microbes feast on, making the nutrients available to plants. Millipedes, spiders, and numerous other types of ‘bugs’ also contribute to soil architecture and organic matter decomposition.

The Cultivator’s Role

When we remove anything from a system in balance, it’s up to us to compensate for that — hopefully, in abundance. An example is replacing organic matter in living soil when we remove produce from that place at harvest time.

Historical accounts give many examples of farms where disease and insect damage are “practically non-existent,” credited mainly to the high quality of the soil. Today, we recognise beneficial microbes, including numerous bacteria, fungi, and nematode subspecies, as near-universal inhabitants of living, organic-matter-rich soil.

When supporting living soil for effective IPM, the cultivator’s role involves stewarding any environmental factors within their capacity but potentially beyond those of the plants and microbes. These may include temperature, access to water and air exchange, local species diversity, and exclusion of threats.

Temperature

Throughout the year, extreme temperatures threaten the lives of beneficials in the soil.

Sometimes, low-growing, large-leafed plants can provide enough shade to protect life in the rootzone of intercropped varieties, such as squash growing among corn. Cloches, cold frames, and row covers add time to the growing season for plant life above ground to thrive, extending the period during which photosynthesis can provide food for Microbes.

Balance of Water and Air

Living soil practices like no-or low-till topsoil management, “chop and drop” of non-edible plant parts (pea vines, for example), and sowing walking paths with low-growing nitrogen accumulators (like clover) allow garden beds to retain the structures that afford them good air circulation, drainage, and water retention as needed.

Practising IPM by cultivating living soil creates resilience through redundancy worldwide

Local Species Diversity

Living soil is always planted with something alive and photosynthesising or that provides a winter home for dormant life. Undisturbed earth acts as a seed bank and contains the dead roots of annual plants; the seeds and roots harbour microbial partners. If it hasn’t been sterilised by human intervention, a young sprout germinates with some inherited benefactors already close by, ready to populate the root zone. This is called “vertical transmission”: the ‘passing down’ of microbial life from the plant that grew the seed. From this moment, soil life is a more diverse community.

Trading seeds among nearby producers supports microbial and plant partnerships that are well-adapted to that place. Common beneficial bacteria and fungi are gregarious — they get along well with numerous plant companions and find it stimulating to be in the company of different ‘personalities’. This happens on various timescales. It may be all at once, like an intensively inter-planted garden bed. It can also be throughout a season or many years, where their populations ebb and flow in numbers but never go locally extinct.

Threats

Threats to plants in living soil environments can include strong natural growth inhibitors other plants make. One example is juglone, a root exudate of black walnut trees that prevents the establishment of many different plant species in the shared soil.

While living soil is a bountiful environment for the web of life to prosper, larger animals may be attracted to the lush gardens. Critters that dig, like moles and skunks, might help reduce populations of destructive grubs, but they do not prioritise gentle handling of your precious plants.

Thankfully, there are microbiological species that balance out some of these concerns before they can become problems. Beneficial nematodes can reduce the number of juicy soil larvae destined to grow into caterpillars and beetles. It’s a win from two angles because the bugs themselves often cause damage to living plants.

When their breeding cycles are interrupted in the garden more than elsewhere, the plot becomes less attractive to those aforementioned nosy beasts.

Grow Life-Affirming Cultures

It’s helpful to think about the relative wildness of the plants and other species we’re relating with as growers. We are a domesticated species; the crop plants we grow are, by extension, also domesticated. The history of their co-evolution with us, partly by careful selective breeding at the hands of humans, makes them vulnerable to challenges they were raised not to expect. If we want to see lots of fully-formed, ripe and phytochemically/nutrient-dense mature plants at harvest time, we must understand and manage tests that will divert or even overwhelm their resources.

If we take a megascopic lens, we can see that the species supported by living soil on a global scale is so richly diverse because of the local evolution of species. They often serve similar functions, but each within the context where they are situated.

All of the travels and trade of humans, the migrations of other animals, and even the air intermingle and disperse genetics. Practising IPM by cultivating living soil creates resilience through redundancy worldwide. As researchers dive deeper into the sciences that reveal how and why problems in one location don’t seem to occur in another, we have hope for responsible, informed responses rather than “one-chemical-kills-all” approaches. 3

Xavi Kief is a writer, researcher, and lifelong learner with their hands in the dirt and their imagination traversing the universe. Seeking always to deepen and integrate their connection with the living planet and its diverse inhabitants, Xavi finds joy by infusing their practical and playful approach to cultivation with a healthy dose of science. They grow food and medicine for their family and community on their NorthEast Coast homestead. Bio

Making a Love Connection

Many folks dream of growing their favourite plants and fungi but feel intimidated by the available options. It’s been called the “Paradox of Choice”: we can become overwhelmed, even paralysed into inaction by the feeling that we could make a ‘bad’ selection, which we’ll later regret.

It’s been called the “Paradox of Choice”: we can become overwhelmed, even paralysed into inaction

Once, you probably thought regular garden plants, the ‘run-of-themill’ veggies like carrots and peas, were straightforward. And even though they can be, once you start growing your own, you come to appreciate that among numerous heritage, heirlooms, and hybrids are even more subtypes that will grow bigger, or taller, or take longer to mature.

Shifting into a cultivator’s perspective can often bring gratitude for experiences of simple choices and blissful naiveté one might have as a consumer. Besides those you’ve sampled from others’ gardens, how do you know which will be the right ones for YOU to grow? Finding the right match is very individual; it can be a bit like dating or making new friends. You might test out a few (or many) different garden partners, trying to learn more about your needs, likes and dislikes, discovering surprising attractions and uncovering important dealbreakers along the way.

Most of all, you want assurance that the time and care you invest in growing will be returned to you in kind. In this article, we’ll go over ways to narrow your search and make choosing where to start less daunting.

Know Thyself

Start with an honest self-evaluation of your budget, commitment, ideal (and attainable) growing conditions, and abilities. Have no shame in your game if this rules out some shiny selections for now. You never know what the future holds!

Cut Down The Initial Investment

The sense of risk can be compounded by the perceived investments required to succeed. What you can spend on growing, including crop selection, can range from frugal to frivolous.

Seed and strain descriptions are fun to read, but when it comes to parsing which ones to pick, temperatures (starting/sowing, running/ fruiting), feeding requirements, and days to

Random, free seeds or starting cultures may fall into your lap, but you will have little idea what the living organism will be like. If you’re prepared to go on a “mystery date” with no expectations, this can be the ticket to testing your skills and set-up without worrying that you’ll be on the hook for an expensive initial purchase.

If the costs of cultivation are already a concern, it may be worth measuring the price of plants or starter cultures in relation to feeling a greater sense of safety in your investment. Going with something familiar, grown commonly by many people, may not be as thrilling as seeking a unique experience. Still, the upside is there will be more of a community to turn to for advice. If you can access a nursery or

work will have been done for you — even better!

Are you All In, or is this a Casual Thing?

This can be a nuanced discussion, but you should have it with yourself. Some varieties are very adaptable, while others are pretty particular. If you’re new to cultivation, it can help to start with plants and mushrooms that have reputations for being distress-tolerant. If you make minor errors, your growing partners will hopefully be forgiving. If you’re willing and able to cope with frustration, feel ready to put your convenience on the backburner sometimes for the good of the grow.

Finding the right match is very individual; it can be a bit like dating or making new friends

Do They Want To Live Where You Want To Live?

The selection of plants and fungi can also be narrowed by the environment you will share.

If you’re an outdoor cat and don’t mind the bugs, dirt, hot sun, and other vagaries of the uncontrolled setting, consider whether the plants you would like to grow are likely to thrive in your local climate conditions. Seed and strain descriptions are fun to read, but when it comes to parsing which ones to pick, temperatures (starting/sowing, running/fruiting), feeding requirements, and days to maturity are as or more relevant than how tasty and pretty something looks. You can usually find something with comparable qualities that will do better than that big-name prizewinner from another region.

If you’d rather stay indoors, consider the plant’s expected space and temperature needs. These will restrict the size and number of growing/fruiting containers and the bulk of your overall yields. You might make up for that by choosing types known for higher potency.

What Excites You?

It’s totally fine to base your choice on reasons others might find silly or weird. You think the name is funny? Love the colour? It might be “wrong” to someone else, but right for you. Getting jazzed about one option among many might be the best guiding factor; this passion can drive you to explore the boundaries of your ambition, keep your focus, and make sacrifices that feel worth the journey.

Don’t Believe the Hype

Remember that promotional images show the peak performance of the plant or mushroom you’re growing. If the source of the photos shares their methods and conditions, you can compare your situation and attempt to replicate their approach. Experience and many other factors (some of which could be beyond your reach or part of the grower’s own “secret sauce”) contributed to that optimal result.

People can get very excited about spreading the joy of growing (I know I do!), so try not to be shy about seeking help in making selections

Matchmaker, Matchmaker

If you’re still overwhelmed and are open but uncertain about what to grow, ask around! Someone in your network may be abundant with wisdom or have sharable starting materials that they understand intimately and can advise you about. People can get very excited about spreading the joy of growing (I know I do!), so try not to be shy about seeking help in making selections.

There’s a Key (or More Than One) for Every Lock

Ultimately, the solution to reducing anxiety is to remind yourself that even if you experience some disappointment, there is almost always an opportunity to learn. It is not a measure of your worth, competency, or capability if you can’t get a chosen varietal to work. You might need to “fail better” a few times or try something different before you find your groove 3

Them, And They Will Come

Whenever you invite nature into your life, especially if you enlist it to do your bidding, you have invited chaos, both enriching and reciprocal, but certainly out of your control. Eating is a wild bird’s main pastime, so building a habitat for them in your garden brings a hungry army of insectivores that can balance insect populations intrinsically. If you are a grower, it will calibrate your growing in terms of building another natural system, one in which health is the priority and poison has no place.

For instance, if you grow potatoes, you are familiar with the potato beetle. No amount of squishing its larva can compete with a ravenous collection of wild birds descending on your crop to rid it of this delicacy. Domestic chickens can also be helpful for this, but they must be supervised, as their scratching can uncover potatoes. You may need to interplant some elderberries or something offering a favourite food while the potato beetle larvae are around to coax them into your patch.

Attracting Birds to the Garden

I came to the mountainous countryside of the Laurentians in Quebec, Canada. Little is grown here because the soil is poor, but the beetles found me within three years of growing potatoes. The birds will do the same.

Attract the birds to your target area with seed. This has the mixed benefit of also attracting rodents, so be sure your crop is not tasty to them. Once they are in, however you get them there, your infestation will be devoured, noting that this is a potential place for yummies possibly returning.

We know that robins and starlings will eat Japanese beetle larvae, one of the most destructive beetles to herbaceous plants. So, if they are scratching around your patch because your rich soil provides ready worms, they will likely find whatever else it harbours.

It is a dance of reciprocity and the work of observation, some of which is impossible to see unless you live under a bush. So, we believe that birds eat bugs that eat plants. One must invite the birds into the garden by all means possible, especially by learning about their favourite natural plants. If birds are one of your problems because you grow fruit, as I do, then it is doubly important to have lots of what they like on tap. If you are growing fruit, wild birds will not be uninvited, but they will prefer what their beaks are adapted to most easily eat, which are small berries.

Learn About Local Birds

To support any army, you must feed it; these soldiers aren’t conscripted. They are on the wing. They have a choice. They must be courted. This requires research for your specific area Learn who your local birds are, their migratory patterns and their favourite diets. Remember who stays behind for the winter if you are in a northern climate like me. Their presence and health will be essential to your ecosystem.

Eating is a wild bird’s main pastime, so building a habitat for them in your garden brings a hungry army of insectivores that can balance insect populations intrinsically

Rose hips

Golden seal

Integrating the wild birds does not guarantee that your crops will be safe from pests, but developing an integrated growing system has the best chance of creating the balance all-natural growing systems crave

Elder rose

Valerian, mullen

Sumac in bloom

“Interplanting is key to this system.”

If you are trying to attract birds, you must also integrate polli nator-friendly plantings to attract the insects. Therein lies the rub. You are attracting birds to eat your pests and attracting insects that will dispatch your pests and feed the birds. Not all insects and arachnids are created equal! You can also invite them in by mail ordering them, but I have yet to have a lot of luck with that. Still, it is nice to have millions of ladybugs emerge from a package, coat your hands and arms and move off into your veg.

Interplanting is key to this system. These are the plants that work for me at latitude 45 North:

Wild Plants—Trees and shrubs: stag-horn sumac, Canadian wild plum, hawthorn, Canadian black cherry, red choke cherry, American elderberry, rugosa roses (for hips), wild raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries, American beech, and hazelnut.

Wild and Cultivated Pollinator Flowers: Jerusalem artichokes, rudbeckia and echinacea, wild evening primrose, great mullein, fleabane, golden rod, Joe-Pye-weed, milkweed, sunflowers, as well as any edible seeding plants like fennel or parsley seeds.

Domestic Trees and Perennials: Crabapple, mulberry.

turkey.

Migratory wild birds: juncos, robins, finches, cardinals, starlings, grosbeaks, mallard ducks, Canadian geese, crows, flickers, woodpeckers, owls and raptors.

These lists are by no means exhaustive. I have focused on the birds I have seen in my garden. With climate change, the migratory seasons of wild birds are changing yearly as more species come further north, so it is tricky to pinpoint exact arrivals. The plants will know because they are responding to the same stimuli.

So, leave a patch for the wild birds and bees. Or several. Leave small piles of natural debris over the winter, waiting for the summer when all insects have hatched to clear it away. Integrating the wild birds does not guarantee that your crops will be safe from pests, but developing an integrated growing system has the best chance of creating the balance that all natural growing systems crave. This is impossible to do with the large-scale monocultures that feed us, but if we all do it on whatever scale we have, it will go some way to offset the habitat-destroying practices that much of our food currently comes from. 3

BIO Marci Babineau grew up in gardens in California and Georgia. She currently gardens north of Montreal, Quebec, where she has nestled a food forest into a south facing hillside. Working in organic gardening and landscaping for 40 years, she has written about and taught a variety of gardening topics to young and old in Montreal and Cambridge,UK.

Wild blueberries

Notes From A Dirty Old Gardener

Spider mites are much like the movie characters Beetlejuice or Candyman. If you say their name three times in a row, they seem to appear out of nowhere to cause you unnecessary pain and aggravation. Unlike the movies, these pests are not entertaining and will take up more than a few hours of your time. When you get infested with spider mites, it can feel like a biblical pestilence has invaded you. Locusts ain’t got shit on spider mites, let me tell you.

When you get infested with spider

mites,

it can feel like a biblical pestilence has invaded you. Locusts ain’t got shit on spider mites, let me tell you

Things might be chugging along well in the grow room, which is where I usually run into these gross little arseholes, and then BAM! You start spotting the tell-tale signs of things going south—little white dots near the primary veins under your leaves. If you have been an inattentive gardener, you may be balls-deep in webbing and egg sacks by this point. Your plant may look like something out of a Tim Burton film. If you took a microscope to any stage of a spider mite infestation, you would want to soak the plants in gasoline and flick a match. Christ… it’s shocking enough to make you want to set the whole house on fire. Exterminate the brutes.

How To Treat Spider Mite Infestations

Let’s talk treatment. If your plants are not in flower, you have many options; we will begin with the all-natural route before we go nuclear. You can start by defoliating the most affected areas, bringing down the population numbers immediately. Combine this with a homemade soap and hydrogen peroxide spray and wipe down the entire plant. Repeat the process for a couple of days. You can also employ Neem oil in this spray to make your all-natural home remedy even more potent, but it’s not recommended during flower. Remember, these little bastards are tenacious and will reappear. Just when you think you have things under control, BAM! Like in Poltergeist, “They’re baaaaaaaaaaaaaack”.

Taking Things Up A Notch

These mites’ birthing cycle is about three days, so if you haven’t managed to disrupt that effectively, you will most likely have to arm yourself with something a little more severe, like a Miticide or Insecticide that’s good for eggs, nymphs, and adult mites. If you are dealing with a Stephen King-level infestation and are down to your last option before a flamethrower, might I suggest “Spider Mite Knockout”? This should also be used before flower, as it is toxic. Not only do I not recommend breathing it in, I wouldn’t want to be in the room with it after spraying. It contains Pyrethrins and Piperonyl Butoxide that will do more than just steal a few brain cells out of your skull.

“But what about if we are in the middle of flowering?” I hear being screamed at me right now. Well, let me tell you, my dear grow buddy, you are shit out of luck and can’t get rid of them; it’s all about mitigation now. It’s time to decide whether to limp your way to the finish line or break out the butane torch. You can’t start spraying willy-nilly now, so get a little hands-on. It’s time to roll up our sleeves and commit a small-scale insect genocide. This is Sparta, it’s time to kick these fuckers down the well.

Firstly, you will defoliate intelligently; don’t take any leaves pertinent to flower growth. These primary leaves should be cleaned with the spray mentioned in the all-natural treatment, except don’t spray it. Wet a paper towel and gently wash your sick ladies. These little guys will also travel up and down the stem and hang out in the soil, so you must treat the whole plant.

The Spider Mite Apocalypse

You can manually apply neem oil during flowering. However, it has a powerful smell that some may say will leech into your terpene profile. Latestage spider mite infestations will kill plants by eating them to death one nibble at a time. Each nibble impedes the plant’s ability to photosynthesise. Giant spider webs will cover your plants like cotton candy, and mite adults will be big enough to be seen by the naked eye. I feel like barfing just thinking about it. I have been able to wipe out a population before, but they will often be a permanent fixture in the grow room until you chop, and the room goes dead for a few weeks.

When gardening, spider mites may be one of the biggest challenges, so it’s best to be proactive and assume they are ALWAYS around and do some IPM

for a few minutes. Do the same with the two other rinsing solutions. Hang it dry like usual, except hit it with a fan until all that excess water is dry. This will clean all the spider mite poop off your product and also removes a lot of other ambient grow room grime. You can use this trick even if you don’t have mites. Some people do it for every grow.

Assume You Have Spider Mites

Tricks Of The Trade

Let’s say you have now limped your way through flower and are ready to chop. Since all the parts of the plants you like are oil-based, you can go ahead and “wash” them. I start by totally defoliating. I then get three buckets, filling two with room-temperature water and the other with water, citric acid, and baking soda. I will let you create your ratio based on your container size, but I recommend being liberal, more rather than less. Make the solution effective. Submerge the plant entirely in the solution and agitate the plant

I don’t want to give anyone any nightmares, so I will ask the publisher to put a cute face on the mites they may use to dress up this article. When gardening, spider mites may be one of the biggest challenges, so it’s best to be proactive and assume they are ALWAYS around and do some IPM (integrated pest management). Aside from that, if you’re religious, start praying they don’t show up. If you’re not religious, power up the flamethrowers and stay vigilant. For everyone’s sake, don’t say spider mite three times in a row. I fear even writing this article has me slated for a visit.

Happy growing, my little bean sprouts. Death to all pests, spider mite to aphid. 3

BIO Regi Oneton is a multi-disciplinary artist and daytime executive. He’s been a member of Socan since his first album release at the age of 20, and is a self-taught audio engineer and self-proclaimed studio rat. Regi is a late-blooming street artist and painter whose works can be found hanging in the offices of Burton and Vans Canada. Long-time contributor to the Under Pressure Graffiti Festival and lover of the Arts. As the years plow forward, he has added botanical enthusiast/plant father to his litany of passions. His interests include writing and spending too much time looking at his phone.

How to Plant an

n urban garden doesn’t have to be a huge undertaking; it can start with a few plants on your windowsill! Get started with our guide to urban gardening, and head over to GCMag.co for more good gardening advice.

How to Plant an Urban Garden: Understanding Its Importance and Impact

Urban gardening is on the rise as city-dwellers look to beautify and cool their surroundings and access affordable and nutritious food sources. But what exactly is an urban garden? Do they have to be a specific size, and what can you grow in them? Is urban gardening complicated? Let’s break it down from the top.

Urban gardening is on the rise as city-dwellers look to beautify and cool their surroundings and access affordable and nutritious food sources. But what exactly is an urban garden? Do they have to be a specific size, and what can you grow in them? Is urban gardening complicated? Let’s break it down from the top.

What’s An Urban Garden?

Urban gardens are typically small-space growing areas within city limits. Planting in containers, grow bags, or vertical gardens on balconies, rooftops, small patios, windowsills, or in a few compact raised beds on a plot of land qualifies as urban gardening. Indoor vertical or hydroponic farms and community gardens with several raised beds and containers also fit the description. An urban garden is any growing space in a suburban or city neighbourhood, whether in soil, water, or another substrate.

What Is An Urban Gardener?

An urban gardener is anyone who tends to these growing spaces. They plant the seeds, water and feed the plants, weed the garden areas, and harvest the fruits. Don’t worry; if you’ve had a few unsuccessful attempts at growing, you are still an urban gardener! All gardeners kill plants, are plagued by pests and disease, or suffer poor yields at some point in their growing careers. Learning from these mistakes and honing your skills as you continue your growing ventures is essential and part of being a gardener.

Why Is Urban Gardening Important?

There are many reasons why urban gardening is essential:

• Urban gardens bring fresh, nutritious, affordable food to cities and reduce food miles.

• Urban gardens help reduce the heat island effect, cooling cities typically surrounded by concrete and paved surfaces.

• Urban gardens bring green and beauty to backyards, balconies, and windowsills. Being surrounded by nature is proven to help boost moods and reduce stress and anxiety.

• Urban gardens can act as beautified privacy fences.

• Urban gardens create a community and teach essential life skills in spaces where many neighbours or schools get involved.

• Urban gardens often use upcycled materials to maximise a space, which is super cool and unique.

Planting in containers, grow bags, or vertical gardens on balconies, rooftops, small patios, windowsills, or in a few compact raised beds on a plot of land qualifies as urban gardening

What Can Be Grown In An Urban Garden?

You can grow almost anything in an urban garden, but always consider the available space. If you have tight quarters, microveggies are a fun alternative to indeterminate or full-size crops. Dwarf tree and shrub varieties exist for smaller yards; some grow well in containers! If all you have is a countertop or windowsill, consider growing microgreens and sprouts, which are incredibly fast-growing, and nutritious!

Can An Urban Garden Follow A Theme?

Yes! Like gardens and farms in the countryside, urban gardens can be unique and follow various themes on a smaller scale. Ideas include:

• Sensory gardens

• Cottage gardens

• Medicinal herb gardens

• Herb spirals

• Meditation gardens

• Shade gardens

• Moon gardens

Urban gardens don’t have to be complicated! Start small and grow plants that you love! You’re already an urban gardener; now it’s time to get growing and beautify your surroundings. 3

If you’re looking for some excellent urban gardening resources, keep browsing Garden Culture or pick up these books:

The Urban Garden: 101 Ways to Grow Food and Beauty in the City by Kathy Jentz and Teri Speight

Field Guide to Urban Gardening: How to Grow Plants, no matter Where you Live by Kevin Espiritu

BIO Catherine is a Canadian award-winning journalist who worked as a reporter and news anchor in Montreal’s radio and television scene for 10 years. A graduate of Concordia University, she left the hustle and bustle of the business after starting a family. Now, she’s the editor and a writer for Garden Culture Magazine while also enjoying being a mom to her three young kids. Her interests include great food, gardening, fitness, animals, and anything outdoors.

Local Growers

WHO’S GROWING

WHAT WHERE

in the UK & Ireland

Louise ‘ Loulou’ Sanders Cornwall, UK

Gardeners often share crop and root stories, but what I love most about this column is discovering people’s first recollections of gardening. Louise attributes this gift to her grandfather of Polish descent, lovingly called ‘Papa’, who, after being released from a labour camp, served in the British army in Cornwall. Meeting a Cornish girl and creating a home was the start of his journey. Most food was grown in the home garden, and nothing went to waste, with the smallest peelings turned into compost. Louise remembers walking in the woods with other children in the family to carry bags of leaf mould home for Papa’s compost pile.The black gold helped grow the biggest strawberries, peas, and even magnificent grapes in his greenhouse.

When Louise bought a home and started a family, gardening crept back into her life. She started with ornamentals and indoor plants, then began foraging for wild Oxfordshire plums and berries to make jams and chutneys. Three years after signing up on a local allotment waiting list, Louise got her first half-plot. She spent time clearing a massively overgrown patch. Her determination and guidance from experienced vegetable growers resulted in raised beds and a fully planted plot, winning her a ‘Best Newcomer’ award.

When a second plot became available, her husband got involved. The chickens arrived soon after, followed by a polytunnel and a smart watering system powered by solar panels. While her melons might not stand up in Giant Veg competitions, the smaller varieties she nurtures are worth the effort. There isn’t a vegetable Louise hasn’t tried growing, and she produces large amounts of useful crops that feed family, friends, and neighbours. Any surplus goes to the ‘Jam Lady’ (Louise’s mother), who is known by locals for her skills and for selling produce at her garden gate.

Canning has become Louise’s new activity, preserving fragrant tomatoes and cucumbers in jars. While this method is more popular in North America, it’s great for saving the summer bounty. The process must be well-researched, as it poses a risk of botulism if done incorrectly.

During our conversation, Louise realised her grandfather sparked her passion for gardening. The seeds he planted waited for her to be ready, and when she was, she magically remembered all of Papa’s techniques.

Follow Louise: @Loulous_allotment @Louise_sander’s_artworks

Would you like to be featured as one of our local growers? If you’ve got a garden, grow room, or farm and have a story to share, contact us at: growers@gardenculturemagazine.com

Isabel Openshaw London

Many of us have a newfound focus and respect for nature after the pandemic. For Isabel, it began with sitting in one place and having time to study herbal remedy books she already owned. Daily walks on the same paths helped her notice patterns and observe how quickly nature changes, giving Iza, as she’s known, food for thought.

Her reignited love for medicinal plants (some call them weeds) brought another connection to her family, where foraged goods were gifted and turned into teas and other products. Having learned that her grandmother used to make elderflower wine, Iza seized the opportunity when elder trees bloomed. She, her sister, and her mother ventured on horseback to reach the purest flowers at the tops of trees to transform into wine. While watching it ferment over weeks was entertaining, she wondered about her ancestors – how they lived, collected food, and made the most of what was abundant around them.

Since this transformative time, Iza completed her studies in ecology and conservation and researched ectomycorrhizal fungi at Kew Gardens, where she currently works studying above- and belowground fungi and forest dynamics. Her deep love of trees eventually led to broader research on fungi and native plants. Iza is also keenly interested in plant folklore, recognising the unique knowledge preserved in ancient tales. As stories were the primary way of passing knowledge, they often contained more profound concepts in forms easy for ordinary folk to remember. While we may never know the truth about fairies, Iza believes their place in botanical folklore is significant.

“Perhaps they depict the spirit of the plants, which we can connect with by asking questions while gardening, foraging, or meditating,” she says.

While her research career centres on data, Iza maintains that handson experience connecting with the soil is equally important. Growing with community groups offers connection and abundant produce, while having her home garden provides peace and a safe space to connect with nature. In her garden, she grows mostly herbs and native plants, combining low-maintenance approaches (as nature

intended) with practices that increase biodiversity. The results are visible to the naked eye – after introducing homemade compost, previously unseen creatures appeared and established themselves, visibly improving the garden’s health and abundance.

We can learn so much when our hearts engage with a task. Sometimes the smallest catalysts, like an interest in common weeds, can lead to a lifelong career filled with awe and admiration for the natural world.

Follow Iza: @iza.herbalremedies

WAYS

To Get A Head Start On Plant Problems

Listen, no matter how seasoned a gardener you are, you can’t avoid growing problems. It’s part of the game. While some issues are expected, you can get a leg up on common garden pests and diseases by implementing a few preventative strategies. This edition is jam-packed with great growing advice; let’s finish with 5 Cool Ways

To Get A Head Start On Plant Problems.

Reduce the spread of disease in the garden by diligently disinfecting your tools. If you use pruners, trowels, scissors, or a moisture meter, properly clean them afterwards so you don’t accidentally cause a plant epidemic. Dirty tools and pots easily pass disease from infected plants to healthy ones because pathogens like bacteria, fungi, and viruses hang on to their surfaces or tiny pieces of soil. Even if your pruners look clean, wipe them down with a product like rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl alcohol). This antiseptic is easy to find, affordable, and doesn’t rust metal pieces. Hand sanitiser is another excellent option for small tools. Even if your plants all seem healthy, don’t skip this step.

DIY Pest Control Projects 3

We’re all about finding inexpensive, organic, and ingenious ways to control pests in the garden. Plenty of nifty DIY projects can keep you busy on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Did somebody say Sunday afternoon? How about building a beer trap to help control slugs? These critters make quick work of leaves in ornamental and edible plants. Slugs are attracted to yeast, so pour some beer into a cup and slightly bury it beneath your plants.They’ll come crawling in for a drink, fall over the edge, and drown in the beer. Luckily, the same won’t happen to you, so go ahead and enjoy a brewskey yourself after making your trap. Another easy DIY is building a cucumber beetle trap using a yellow plastic cup, petroleum jelly, and clove oil. Cucumber beetles are brutal garden pests and make quick work of staples like cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, melons, pumpkins, and squash. They also transmit bacterial wilt and cucumber mosaic virus, so protecting your plants is crucial. Find these DIY projects and others, including cutworm collars, carrot rust fly screens, and earwig traps, in The Vegetable Garden Peat Handbook by Susan Mulvihill.

Introduce Beneficial Nematodes 4

There are good and bad nematodes; the good ones are crucial to nutrient cycles and perform many roles in exchanging and converting minerals, plants, and animals into available food for other life forms. Beneficial nematodes find hosts in the soil through the pest’s respiration. They enter the host’s body and infect it with bacteria harmless to humans, animals, birds, and pollinators. The host dies within 48 hours of infection. In this edition, Alex Field writes about common mushroom-growing problems and introducing scariad nematodes to help combat fungus gnats. He says adding the eggs of these microscopic worms into the water and soaking a growing medium with it will help kill the flies and their eggs. It works for houseplants, too! You can purchase beneficial nematodes from garden centres and online suppliers. Be sure to verify which species you are selecting and what pests they are best suited for tackling.

Good Cultural Practices

Good cultural practices have everything to do with the garden’s health. Taking preventative measures gives a crop the best chance at survival. Walking through your garden space daily and checking your plants closely for changes is an excellent start. Plus, it’s therapeutic! Intercropping is beautiful in all its chaos and makes it more challenging for pests to find their desired crop. Mulching reduces soil erosion, locks in moisture, and prevents plants from having direct contact with possible pathogens. Savvy gardeners inspect seedlings for signs of pests or disease before introducing them into the garden space. Good airflow, proper watering practices, and weeding are essential for healthy plants. It might seem like a lot to keep track of, but we promise that implementing good cultural practices is simple, and you’ll end up with a mostly pest-and-disease-free garden, making it all the more enjoyable! 3

We highly recommend Susan Mulvihill’s The Vegetable Garden Pest Handbook and The Vegetable Garden Problem Solver Handbook to help you identify and battle pesky bugs in your garden!