Gate #1

THE OFFICIAL BRUSSELS SOUTH CHARLEROI AIRPORT MAGAZINE

gaT #APRIL 2009

© QUENTIN WILBAUX

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TUNISIA WHERE EUROPE MEETS AFRICA WEEKEND IN BUDAPEST

A CONTEMPORARY TOWN

#ESCAPE

#CITY-TRIP

#CHARLEROI

EDITORIAL Toasted cheese and ham sandwich with steak served with bolognaise sauce, haggis, cabbage soup and black balsam are all dishes I had never even heard of until recent years.

You can experience these culinary delights in the places they originate from quickly, inexpensively, comfortably and easily, now that Brussels South Charleroi Airport serves almost 60 destinations.

A toasted cheese and ham sandwich with steak between the ham and cheese smothered in a kind of bolognaise sauce is known in Porto as a “francesinha” or “Little French Girl” and, over the years, what was once an ordinary dish has become a dish which is served even in 5 star hotels. Haggis is considered to be Scotland’s national dish, and can be sampled in Glasgow and the surrounding area. You can taste one of more than 100 variations on cabbage soup in Budapest, Hungary’s magnificent capital. Black balsam, with vodka, is one of the most popular tipples among Latvians, and can be blended and used in 30 different ways, neat or mixed with varying amounts of alcohol. Try it out in Riga!

The friendly airport makes it possible, thanks to all of the airlines operating at its site.

On behalf of the entire team, I would like to welcome you on board this first edition of Gate, the magazine of Brussels South Charleroi Airport.

MARCEL BUELENS CEO

COMPETITION Win a trip to marvellous MARSEILLE and answer these two questions: What is the expected number of passengers at Brussels Charleroi Airport for 2009? Which view offers the Radisson Hotel of Marseille? Answers have to be send to gate@charleroi-airport.com prior to 15th June.

Rules and regulations available on www.charleroi-airport.com

photo cover: the Menara gardens in Marrakech

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CONTENTS

6 PROFILE# MARIO FERREIRA 8 TABLE TALK# VALENCIA, VERONA, CADAQUÉS, SIENA 12 PROFILE# PASCAL SAINT-PÈRE 14 ESCAPE# DJERBA 20 IMPRESSIONS# MARSEILLE 27 yellow pages# 28 destinations# 30 airportlife# 32 PORTFOLIO# SARDAIGNE 38 FOCUS WALLONIA# JEAN-MICHEL ZECCA

40 WALLONIA# CHARLEROI 44 PLACES TO BE# WINE IN BRUSSELS 46 TRAVELLING WITCH# MARRAKECH 50 CITY-TRIP# BUDAPEST 56 wine# 58 trends# 61 travel hype# 62 hotspot# 68 podcast#

Editorial Director: Christiane Thiry | Assistant: Hélène Rivière | Founder: Eric Poelemans | Writers: Isabelle Blandiaux, David Gering, Françoise Raes, René Sépul, Ingrid Tahon, Christiane Thiry, Eric Velghe, Quentin Wilbaux | Art director: Dominique Hambye | Printing: Sodimco | Sales & Marketing: Eric Poelemans (Brussels South Charleroi Airport) – Mobile : +32(0)475 53 31 18 – e.poelemans@charleroi-airport.com; Martine Levau (RGP) – Mobile : +32(0)0479 981636 – martine.levau@saipm.com; Marie-Noëlle Raquez (RGP) – Mobile : +32(0)475305599 – marienoelle.raquez@saipm.com | Gate is published on behalf of BSCA by IPM | All correspondence should be addressed to: BSCA - Gate Rue des Frères Wright, 8 6041 Charleroi Belgium – gate@charleroi-airport.com

6#PROFILE

Space

WRITTEN

BY RENÉ SÉPUL

TRAVELLER

Active in Portuguese tourism since 1992, Mario Ferreira intends to be the first Portuguese space tourist. The owner of Hotel River Cruises, an exclusive Portuguese T.O located in Porto, and Caminho das Estrelas, a travel agency specialized in Space tourism, tells us about his dreams and projects. # How did you come to take an interest in space travel? My passion for space goes way back to my childhood days. I’ve always been interested in space and aeronautics, so in 2004, when I first heard of Richard Branson’s space flights project, I knew I wanted to do it. In 2004, at a very early stage of the Virgin Galactic project I signed up to be the first Portuguese tourist in space and thus become a Founder (one of the first 100 to travel to space). It was also at this stage that I decided to create the first European travel agency specializing in Space Tourism – Caminho das Estrelas!

What do you mean by “space travel”?

Space travel, in this case space tourism, means travelling to space for a leisure purpose. Technically it means crossing the 100 km altitude line. Above and beyond that, you’re in space. This means Zero Gravity, the blackness and silence of space and, last but not least, the most amazing view of Earth and the thin layer of the atmosphere. Virgin Galactic passengers will experience all this.

It’s also the first step towards private space travel. The next step will be resorts in space and trips to the moon.

What are you offering at present? We represent Virgin Galactic and sell sub-orbital flights, space flights (crossing the 100 km altitude space line) that do not go into orbit.

To attain an orbital flight (meaning that you go into orbit thus completing at least a full ellipse around the earth) you will need a much more powerful engine and more fuel. It also means higher and longer G Forces on going up and re-entry. The flights Caminho das Estrelas sells cost 200,000 USD and last approximately 4 hours, with a 10 minute period in space,

when passengers can float around the cabin and see the Earth from space.

We also represent Go Zero G (the zero gravity flights) and The Kennedy Space Center, with visits and leisure programs for all the family including the ATX (Astronaut) training experience. We also have a space toys line, selling all kind of toys connected with space, replicas, merchandising, etc. (www.caminhodasestrelas.pt\uk) What will you be offering in the future? Once the commercial flights begin, hopefully at the end of 2009, I think that the private space race will develop very quickly.

Bigelow has already announced the space resorts project, where you can spend a few days in a space hotel. Google also announced last year that they would sponsor the Google Lunar X Prize, which will award as much as $30 million in prizes for landing unmanned rovers on the moon and having them perform certain tasks. The company to win this space race by 2012 would take home $20 million.

This will certainly mean a boost in technology research programs.

Who is your target? Everybody. There are no special health requirements or strenuous training involved. There is no age limit, as long as you are in good health. Of course the cost is a different matter. Not everybody can afford a ticket. But very soon after the flights begin, prices will drop and it will be a more and wider affordable experience. # www.caminhodasestrelas.pt Mario Ferreira in Caminho das Estrelas office (which reproduces the interior of a spaceship).

FLIES TO FARO & PORTO

8#TABLE TALK

Ask any Spanish epicurean which city in Spain is the best place for a gourmet, and most of them will fight over San Sebastian or Valencia. #

VA L E N C I A RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTOS BY CICI OLSSON

CASA MONTANA Valencia, on the Mediterranean coast, is the cradle of the paella, Spain’s national dish. The most commonly-found paellas combine seafood and chicken, but if you’re looking for something special, you can find versions that include rabbit, snails or cod. It’s worth remembering that the Spanish don’t like going to bed on a full stomach – the locals never eat a paella in the evening. The best paella is said to be found at La Rosa, on the seafront, where the range of dishes includes a paella made with sea-anemones and baby squid.

For tapas, you should venture into the heart of the popular Cabañal and grab a table at Casa Montaña. This is a glorious old-fashioned bodega serving the best wines in town with tapas of sardines, anchovies, cured meats and cheeses. Apparently nothing has changed since its foundation in 1836, when this place started to supply wine in bulk to the merchant ships of the port of Valencia. Today, Emiliano García, owner and famous sommelier, has enhanced the bodega spirit and made it “the” place to be in town, with one of the most complete and selective wine cellars in the country. # La Rosa | Avenida Neptuno 70 | +34 96 371 2076 Casa Montana | José Benlliure 69 | +34 96 367 23 14

Verona may be the place for lovers – but don’t forget it’s also a great place for lovers of opera and food. Favourites from the menu might include mortadella di Bologna, ciccioli, Felino, salama da sugo and pastizada de caval (braised horse meat), often served with wines from the Veneto, from a Prosecco with the starter to the renowned Valpolicella Amarone. #

V E R O N A

TRATTORIA AL POMPIERE The place you shouldn’t miss is the Trattoria Al Pompiere. Considered to be one of the most authentic places in town, this restaurant is associated with the Slow Food movement. It’s a great restaurant, not only for the food and wine it serves, but also for the friendliness of everyone who works there.

This is probably the best place to try the local bigoli, a short curly pasta served al dente with different sauces. We had our bigoli after an unbelievable dish of hams, cheeses, honey and mustards, washed down with a bottle of 2001 Valpolicella Classico Bonacosta recommended by the chef.

Absolutely fabulous. With more than 800 wines in the cellar, the Bottega del Vino, where food has been served since 1890, is an institution in the town. A favourite with tourists, this restaurant serves traditional Veronese dishes – sausages and beans, tripe with parmesan, polenta and pancetta star on the menu as “piatti tipici”. # Trattoria Al Pompiere | Vicolo Regina d’Ungheria 5 | +39 45 8030537 Bottega del Vino | Via Scudo di Francia 3 | +39 45 8004535

10#TABLE TALK The Sienese are seen as being rather strange, as they take little notice of outsiders. Don’t take it to heart! It has nothing to do with your being a foreigner – apparently they behave the same way with people living less than 20 km outside the city walls. #

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OSTERIA LE LOGGE As you might hear, the Sienese need nothing from you or the rest of the world – they have the Palio, a race that last less than 2 minutes, and attracts huge crowds from all over the world!.

This race is amazing, but don’t try to understand how it works, who is the winner or what the prize is! It’s a manner of honour, and nobody who doesn’t have the Sienese mindset can possibly understand it. And it’s impossible to have the Sienese mindset unless you, and several generations of your family before you, were born within the city walls. Its name alone gives Osteria Le Logge a little bit of this atmosphere. It’s considered to be the best place in town, although a wine producer I met insisted on pointing out the pros and cons, claiming that the best culinary deals were found outside the city, in the Chianti area or towards San Giminiano.

I tried Le Logge and I would recommend it if you don’t come by car. Here you’ll find a cuisine firmly rooted in tradition with crostini, pici (thick, hand rolled spaghetti), malfatti all’Osteria (spinach-andricotta balls in a creamy tomato sauce), ravioli ripieni di pecorino e menta (ravioli stuffed with ewe'smilk cheese and mint in a sauce flavored with port) and bistecche di vitello. # Osteria Le Logge | via del Porrione 33

If you go to Cadaqués, a little Spanish fishing village set on a small bay ringed by mountains near the French border, you might stay at La Residencia, an affordable hotel whose guests have included famous artists like Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, Man Ray, André Matisse, and even Salvador Dali, who lived with his wife Gala in the adjacent Port Lligat. #

CADAQUÉS

CASA NUN Reminders of their work can be seen everywhere, in the hotel as well as in the village. Today, this area is also known for food, with Ferran Adrià and his world famous restaurant El Bulli just around the corner in Cala Montjoi near Roses. A great place to visit, but keep in mind that this is not the sort of restaurant that you can just turn up at. It gets booked up as much as a year in advance. If you’re among the lucky, make sure you have enough credit on your Visa card…

If it’s full, you can still find great opportunities for food in Cadaqués, where there is a wide selection of places to eat, from small Mediterranean family-run restaurants to fresh fish restaurants and tapas bars. I recommend Casa Nun as the prettiest, with the best food, especially if you can get an alcove table on the first floor overlooking the bay. At this very table I had some of the best grilled fresh fish I’ve ever tasted, along with a lovely bottle of Mas den Gil, Coma Blanca 2006, at a decent price. # Casa Nun | Calle Portitxó 6 | +34 972 258 856 Hotel La Residencia | Calle Caritat Serinyana 1 | +34 972 258 312 | www.laresidencia.net

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MAISON DE LA FRANCE avenue de la Toison d’Or, 21 1050 Brussels | Tel. 0902 88 025 | Monday to Friday, 9.00 to 17.00 | www.franceguide.com info.be@franceguide.com

France

AT HOME IN

France is the number one destination for Belgians tourists.

Pascal Saint-Père, the Managing Director of “La Maison de la France” in Brussels, aims to increase his country’s attraction. # RENÉ SÉPUL

What exactly is “La Maison de la France” ? “It’s another name for the French National Tourist Office. This institution was created twenty years ago as an Economic Interest Group (EIG). The Maison de la France is now an association of members with an economic interest in tourism, such as the National Ministry of Tourism, local and regional authorities, and people making a living from tourism like hotels and guides, as well as the major players within the French economy. Altogether, our 1400 members represent roughly 85 % of the general tourism product.

Our first priority is to promote France as a destination. We have more than 30 offices around the world with budgets allocated by the Ministry of Tourism to create consumer awareness of our country. We provide many experience and incentive options, targeting special interest tour groups, since our country has a lot to offer in fields such as gastronomy, wine, culture, education and so on. We have a web site and an agency in Brussels where people can get all the information they need.”

Are Belgian travellers important? “In 2007, France welcomed 82 million foreign visitors, making it the world’s No. 1 Tourist Destination for the 15th year running. However, our country is currently facing new challenges linked to increased international competition and shifting consumer needs. In this general context, Belgium is important, as, alongside Luxemburg, it provides the third largest number of tourists, representing 12.4 % of our visitors.

This group is also the third group in terms of spending, following England and Germany.”

What is the Belgian market like? First I would like to say that it is a very loyal market.

Every year, between 20 and 23.3 % of the Belgian population visits us. In 2006, more

Belgians spent their holidays in France than in their own country. We are in the lead as a summer destination as well as for week-ends.

Apart from the summer holiday season, which mainly focuses on Provence and the Mediterranean coast, we could call this a “zapping attitude”– Belgians tend to go for short stays, starting with, for example, Alsace, followed by the Loire, then Burgundy or Normandy. It’s a completely different market because this population of 10.5 million is divided into three very different markets – Flemish, Walloon and Brussels, with the European Community.

With the Walloons, our results are excellent with 34.4% of travellers visiting France. Here our work is more about loyalty, while in Flanders we have to work to make ourselves better known, with only 18.8% visiting us.”

Is low cost travel modifying the consumer habits? “Yes. Nowadays, air traffic from Belgium to France represents only 9% of the total flow, but it is growing, especially for short breaks. Previously, a long week-end or a mini break would involve Paris and the Île de France area. With the development of low cost flights, there are new airports in places like Bergerac, Perpignan, and Carcassone. From there, you can easily drive to Toulouse, Montpellier or Bordeaux, so there is a huge potential for discovery all year round.

We’re looking at the possibility of a future connection to Corsica. A lot has to be done in this area. France has been working too much on its strong destinations like Paris, the Côte d’Azur, and the Alps in winter. We haven’t worked enough on promoting cities like Bordeaux, Marseille, Lyon or Montpellier. These places cannot compete with Barcelona or Berlin as fun destinations, but they have undergone tremendous changes and are, indeed, a great pleasure for new generations to discover.”

FLIES TO PERPIGNAN, LA ROCHELLE, CARCASSONNE, BERGERAC, MARSEILLE, NÎMES, GRENOBLE, MONTPELLIER

The medina of Sousse The ruins of Carthage

15#ESCAPE

Where Europe MEETS WRITTEN BY RENÉ SÉPUL

AFRICA

For a long time Tunisia has been known in Europe primarily as a cheap beach destination for crowds of tourists with no interest in culture. That wasn’t completely off the mark – Tunisia is a beach paradise – but it was completely unfair to the culture and the history of a country whose capital city, Tunis, lies closer to Italy than to its own southern borders. #

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As a teenager I spent two weeks with my family near Hammamet. For the entire stay, we had great fun – ever try donkey races?

However, I didn’t see much of the country or its inhabitants except during the half-day bus trip organized by the Club to the medina, where the family “had to” buy djellabahs and babouches to take home.

Times are changing. Slowly but surely Tunisia is rising above its cheap package reputation.

Located in the up-market residential area of north Tunis, the Villa Didon is a good example of the alternatives this country can offer. The ground floor of the Villa is home to Alain Ducasse’s restaurant Spoon Carthage – his first venture in north Africa, an addition to the list of “Spoons” in places like St Tropez, Hong Kong, London and Gstaad.

This great hotel is within walking distance of the ruins of Carthage, another aspect of the variety that’s on offer in Tunisia. The great city of Dido was sacked by the Romans in 146 BC, and its replacement was overrun by vandals and Arabs over the following centuries. There isn’t much left to see, but rambling among the chunks of columns and other ruins is a fascinating experience. The best preserved sections are the Antonine Baths, one of the largest baths in the Roman Empire built in the middle of the second century, and the old Theatre of Hadrian, just off the Roman road.

ARTISTS’ VILLAGE A few minutes drive from the Villa is Sidi Bou Saïd, perched on a cliff overlooking the Gulf of Tunis where many of Tunisia’s elite live.

In its narrow streets, the white of the walls is

Tunis : the Great Mosque Sidi Bou Saïd, en artist’s village

broken up by aquamarine windows and purple flowering vines . Seen as one of the more picturesque villages of North Africa, Sidi bou Said has, in the past, been a source of inspiration for artists and writers like Paul Klee, Gustave Flaubert and André Gide.

Like the medina of Tunis, this small village is busy with tourists from late morning to early evening in summer, but then, suddenly, as the sun fades away, it becomes a retreat for travellers in search of authenticity. There's a handful of hotels but the best bet is the characterful Dar Said, which has a small pool and a hammam. At sunset, Café Sidi Chebaane is a great stop for an afternoon tea, a wonderful place looking out over the bay and, as night falls, the twinkling lights of Tunis.

THE CAPITAL OF DIVERSITY The capital itself is becoming a good weekend destination. The city is a perfect mix of North African, Middle Eastern and European influences, with long boulevards, belle époque buildings and wrought-iron balconies courtesy of the French, but beneath the modern outer shell lies a city that hasn't changed in centuries. Its traditional heart is in western Tunis at the Zitouna Mosque, in the middle of the medina, with the old walled town’s maze of alleys, the covered Souk and the elaborately studded doors for which Tunisia is famous. Don’t miss the National Museum of the Bardo, probably the finest archaeological museum in the Maghreb, where magnificent mosaic floors testify to the wealth and luxury that this seemingly arid land was able to afford during the Roman era.

In Kairouan, the sacred city of Islamic Tunisia

Tunis, in the National Museum of the Bardo

18#ESCAPE

GOING THERE WHEN ?

Avoid the hot, dry summer season.

Late autumn or early spring are the best choices.

Food is another good reason to visit Tunis.

The national cuisine is the result of rare combinations, mixing local know-how with contributions of various origins from various times. Local cuisine has been enriched throughout the centuries by the contributions of the peoples who came to the country, such as the Jewish, Arab, Turkish and Italian communities, whose impact on food is very significant, as well as the Berbers who brought couscous to Tunisia. The best place to get a taste of it is Dar El Jeld, but you’ll need to book in advance and dress up.

KAIROUAN & SOUSSE It’s very easy to rent a car anywhere in the country. Then you might head toward Kairouan, the sacred city of Islamic Tunisia, founded in the seventh century as a fortified military camp, an outpost for the first Arab invaders and a centre for the spread of Islam. The town is also the country’s oldest and best-known carpet centre. The medina around the Great Mosque is well worth a visit, as is the medina of Sousse, where you should visit the ribat, a particular kind of fortressmonastery that was once used by monks intent on holy conquest. #

FLIES TO DJERBA & MONASTIR

EAT AU BON VIEUX TEMPS | Probably the best restaurant in Sidi Bou Saïd. French and Tunisian menu | Rue Hedi Zarrouk 56.

CHEZ SLAH | A classic | Rue Pierre de Coubertin 14 bis.

EL FIRMA | Best fish | Rue des Fruits 58 | La Soukra.

DAR EL JELD | Rue Dar el Jeld 5-10 | La Kasbah | Tunis.

SLEEP VILLA DIDON | 2016 Carthage Byrsa | + 216 71 73 3433 | www.villadidon.com HOTEL MAISON DORÉE | two stars | Rue de Hollande 6bis | +216 1 240 632 | Double room with bath and breakfast, about €30 a night.

DAR SAID | Rue Toumi | Sidi bou Said | + 216 71 72 9666 | www.darsaid.com.tn HOTEL MAISON BLANCHE | Avenue Mohamed V 45 | 1002 Tunis | +216 1 849 849 | Double room with bath (breakfast not included), about $110.

HOTEL SPLENDID | Rue du 9 Avril | Kairouan | +216 7 227 522 | Double room with bath and breakfast, about $25.

MONEY Most but not all hotels and good restaurants accept credit cards. You cannot export Tunisian dinars, and you lose a lot in the exchange when you leave, so change small amounts as you need them.

CAR RENTAL ADA, the Tunisian car rental agency which collaborates with Atlantis (Atlantis Voyages – Tel. +216 1 343 901), is cheaper than an international agency. ADA Location | Rue des Métiers 34 Z.1 Ariana | Tunis Carthage | Tel. 216 1 704 700.

Frédéric Flamand on the rooftop of Le Corbusier’s. Radiant City Notre-Dame de la Garde dominates Marseilles and its Old Port.

21#IMPRESSIONS

WRITTEN BY CHRISTIANE THIRY AND QUENTIN WILBAUX PHOTOS BY QUENTIN WILBAUX

the radiant

CITY

Frédéric Flamand, Director of the National Ballet and the National School of Dance of Marseilles, takes us on a tour of Marseilles, his radiant city. #

22#IMPRESSIONS

After living in Charleroi in Belgium, Frédéric Flamand now resides in Marseilles, the city of 111 districts, micro-towns within the city. It’s a rebellious city, defying any planning law, and nurturing great utopian ideas. These ingredients are not to Frédéric Flamand’s disliking.

In fact, since 1996, he has been questioning the way in which the space is structured with his choreographic productions in association with famous names in architecture, such as Moving Target, followed by E.J.M.1 and E.J.M.2, which were created with the architects Elisabeth Diller and Ricardo Scofidio, Metapolis and Metapolis II with Zaha Hadid, The Future of Work and Body|Work|Leisure with Jean Nouvel and The Radiant City with Dominique Perrault.

Frédéric Flamand experiences this relationship with architecture and urban scenography on a daily basis as he walks along the streets of Marseilles, from his bus stop at Prophet’s Beach to the National Theatre of Marseilles or the Municipal Opera House in the Old Port, where his shows are staged, up to the Boulevard de Gabes, home of the National Ballet and the National School of Dance. He describes the Radiant City or the docks district with the eyes of an architect and town planner, and depicts the crypts, tiny ports and scenery of Marseilles with all the flair of Cézanne.

20, BOULEVARD DE GABES Set in a park like a futuristic kasbah, this is Frédéric Flamand’s kingdom. First opened in 1992 and built by the architect Simounet, a disciple of Le Corbusier, the building’s architecture appears inward-looking, as if to promote concentration among its 120 students aged 8 to 18. The three-storey complex looks like a complicated set of white volumes subtly arranged to allow natural light in everywhere.

A red and blue totem pole marks the entrance of Le Corbusier’s Radiant City.

Frédéric Flamand has introduced a few blocks of bright colour into the hall, a nod towards the Radiant City. This modernist-influenced venue is where he intends to continue to break down the barriers between dance, fine art and visual art.

OLD PORT AND LE PANIER Marseilles boasts around 40 kilometres of coastline punctuated with numerous inlets and ports where man has made a living for centuries from fishing and trade, first and foremost among which is the Old Port. The shores of this ancient rocky inlet are where the Phocaeans first landed, and where the great events which have shaped the city have been played out. In the surrounding area, Marseilles life is in full swing, with its cafés, restaurants, fish market, pavement cafés and so on. So which are Frédéric Flamand’s favourites? La Caravelle, on the first floor of the Bellevue Hotel, when you want to get a coffee or a quick bite to eat, leaning on the port’s prettiest and smallest balcony, and also the Bar de la Marine, a fashionable old bar along the quay, virtually opposite the ferry landing stage. This boat, regarded fondly by Pagnol and the people of Marseilles, has been making the shortest sea crossing, from the left bank to the right bank of the Old Port, since 1880. The boat berths in front of the Town Hall, a beautiful baroque building dating from the 17th century built using ochre stone. The port’s quays were built under Louis XIV. During the Second World War, around 2,000 homes in the districts around the Old Port were razed to the ground by the Nazis. The architect Fernand Pouillon was given the task of rebuilding them. Behind his buildings is hidden Le Panier, an unmissable district where you can find the real spirit of Marseilles. This is traditionally where immigrants arriving in Marseilles by sea came to live.

Frédéric Flamand climbs into the Radiant City’s superstructures.

The arrival of the ferry which crosses Old Marseilles.

The outdoor Cercle des Nageurs swimming pool overhangs the Mediterranean.

A tiny fishing port nestles in the hollow of Auffes Valley, right in the middle of Marseilles.

A shopping street within the Radiant City is generously bathed in natural light.

Frédéric Flamand enjoys walking along the shores of the Mediterranean, in the Calanques (rocky inlets) or, like here, at the Pointe d’Endoume.

FROM PORT TO PORT Right in the middle of Le Panier is a good example of the kind of redevelopment Frédéric loves, namely the Vieille Charité (former almshouse), one of the finest works by the architect Pierre Puget. An example of 17th century civil architecture, the Vieille Charité was used to provide shelter for vagrants, before being turned into a hospice and subsequently a barracks in the 20th century. Left empty, it was threatening to fall into ruins when Le Corbusier drew the attention of the authorities to this masterpiece.

Made a listed building in 1951, the restoration work took over 15 years. Since 1986, the Vieille Charité has housed a multidisciplinary scientific and cultural centre, including research centres, museums and a bookshop.

However, the fact that the Old Port is the birthplace of Marseilles should not make us overlook the charm and character of the other small ports. If you hug the Coast Road, you will discover other atmospheres, such as Catalans Beach or, nestled in the delightful Auffes Valley, a picture postcard fishing port with a viaduct in the background. Le Fonfon “where they serve one of the best fish soups in Marseilles” in the words of Frédéric Flamand, is a must. You then go through Madrague de Montredon. This is where the Calanques (rocky inlets) start. A haven of tranquillity with its huts and seaside fish restaurants. “If you like good Marseilles cooking, you absolutely must go to Chez Dédé and Chez Aldo”. The Port of Goudes is charming because of its beautiful setting and the bowls of mussels, mullet and garlic mayonnaise served at Mon Plaisir. After a few bends in the Coast Road, you end up at the Route des Ports Callelongue. Stop off at La Grotte, a former 19th century factory restored with an old counter and gilt-framed paintings, to

25#IMPRESSIONS

sample freshly-caught grilled fish shown to you at your table before being cooked.

FROM ONE UTOPIAN IDEA TO ANOTHER Built by Le Corbusier between 1947 and 1951, the Radiant City is an imposing structure built to resemble an urban ship.

The test bed for a new housing system, the Radiant City comprises 337 apartments with 23 different layouts. The typical apartment is designed for 4 people. This is a so-called “dual-aspect” split-level apartment with a large living room, recessed balcony and full-height picture window. As well as this new layout, there are a number of add-ons designed to stimulate a new way of living in collective housing, including an indoor street with shops and a hotel for residents’ relatives and guests. The top floor contains a nursery and a gym. Finally, the magnificent roof terrace provides a relaxation area with a children’s pool, play areas and a stage sheltered by a windbreak wall for open air performances.

Some residents have lived in their apartments since 1952. Today, many are occupied by a well-to-do class of teachers, doctors, architects, psychoanalysts and interior designers.

COAST ROAD IN THE STYLE OF NIEMEYER For Frédéric Flamand, life in Marseilles is made up of transitions, from one architecture to another, and from one view to another. Every morning, he leaves the chic district of Roucas Blanc and his floral villa to go down to the Kennedy Coast Road, which provides some of the best scenery Marseilles has to offer (the Mediterranean, the Frioul Islands and the Château d’If), with perspectives and tones which remind him of Niemeyer’s projects.

On the Coast Road, next to Catalans Beach, the Cercle des Nageurs is one of Frédéric

26#IMPRESSIONS

FRÉDÉRIC FLAMAND’S RECOMMENDATIONS Flamand’s personal favourites. This private complex featuring 1950s architecture boasts a restaurant, terrace cafés and, most importantly, an impressive Olympic-size swimming pool with semi-circular terraced poolside seating. Another must is Les Flots Bleus, where those who remember 1998 fondly sip their drinks in the pretty circular terrace café looking out at the sea and the islands, under the unmissable giant portrait of Zidane.

From the Coast Road, head for the docks and a change of scenery. A massive complex built

by Gustave Desplaces between 1858 and 1863 modelled on London’s St. Katharine Docks, the docks extend over more 400 metres, with four inter-connected sets of warehouse buildings finished off with a magnificent Louis XIII-style administration building. They were returned to their former splendour following the highly successful restoration carried out by the architect Eric Castaldi, and now feature brand new wooden footbridges over docks, huge windows, bars and restaurants, local media and international offices.

A DIFFERENT MARSEILLES EMERGES The Joliette district with its docks is becoming an international business centre. It’s also the showcase of Euroméditerranée, a wide-ranging programme which aims to make Marseilles the main centre for trade between the rich North of Europe and growth markets in the Mediterranean region. Frédéric Flamand has discovered a city which is rethinking its entire urban fabric, which is moving into unconventional sites such as enormous silos on the seafront, near to the docks, which are due to be transformed into a 2,000 seater theatre!

Nearby, a 110 metre high, 29 storey tower is due to be built for the CMA-CGM shipping company by the architect Zaha Hadid.

A different Marseilles is emerging, “a Torontostyle dream”, in the words of Frédéric Flamand, who hopes to see the city selected as the 2013 European City of Culture. #

WHERE TO EAT IN THE CALANQUES (ROCKY INLETS) Chez Dédé | Boulevard Bonne Brise 32 | 13008 Marseilles | +33 4 91 73 31 55 Chez Aldo | Madrague de Montredon 28 | Rue Audemar-Tibido | 13008 Marseilles | +33 4 91 73 31 55 Mon Plaisir | Port of Goudes | Rue Désiré-Pelaprat 13008 Marseilles LA CORNICHE DISTRICT Chez Fonfon | Rue du Vallon des Auffes 140 | 13007 Marseilles | +33 4 91 52 14 38 Le Petit Nice Passedat | Anse de Maldormé | Corniche J.F. Kennedy | 13007 Marseilles | +33 4 91 59 25 92 Chez Michel-La Brasserie des Catalans | Rue des Catalans 6 | 13007 Marseilles | +33 4 91 52 64 22 OPERA HOUSE DISTRICT La Part des Anges | Rue Sainte 33 | 13008 Marseilles | +33 4 91 33 55 70 Librairie des Arsenaux (restaurant and bookshop) Cours d’Estienne d’Orves 25 | 13008 Marseilles +33 4 91 59 80 37 AROUND LA CANEBIÈRE Toinou Dégustation (seafood) Cours Saint-Louis 3 | 13001 Marseilles +33 4 91 33 14 94 WHERE TO DRINK OLD PORT DISTRICT La Caravelle | Quai du Port 34 | on the first floor of Bellevue Hotel | 13002 Marseilles | +33 4 91 90 36 64 Bar de la Marine | Quai de Rive-Neuve 15 | 13007 Marseilles | +33 4 91 54 95 42 COAST ROAD Les Flots Bleus | Corniche John-Kennedy 82 | 13007 Marseilles | +33 4 91 52 10 34 WHERE TO SLEEP OLD PORT DISTRICT Chambres d’Hôtes Schaufelberger Superb views overlooking the Old Port. En-suite double rooms from €60 to €65 including breakfast. Rue Saint Laurent 8 | 13002 Marseilles | +33 4 91 90 29 02 | schaufel@wanadoo.fr FLIES TO MARSEILLE

27#yellow pages

Rue des Frères Wright, 8 6041 Charleroi – Belgium Opening hours : 4.30 am to 11 pm GENERAL CONTACT +32(0)71 251 211 LOST & FOUND CONTACT +32(0)71 251 311 GENERAL E-MAIL contactbsca@charleroi-airport.com COMPLAINT E-MAIL CONTACT bsca-complaint@charleroi-airport.com WEB SIDE www.charleroi-airport.com

WEBRESERVATION www.ryanair.com CALL CENTER NL (BELGIUM) 0902 345 876 CALL CENTER FR (BELGIUM) 0902 123 098 CALL CENTER INTERNATIONAL +34(1)45 125 097 675

WEBRESERVATION www.jetairfly.com CALL CENTER +32(0)59 243 987 JETAIRCENTER CHARLEROI AIRPORT +32(0)71 258 060 cathy.tonsenst@jetaircenter.be

WEBRESERVATION www.wizzair.com CALL CENTER (BELGIUM) 070 342 876 CALL CENTER INTERNATIONAL +36(1)20 165 897 456

WEBRESERVATION www.jet4you.com CALL CENTER RESERVATION (BELGIUM) 070 234 089 JETAIRCENTER CHARLEROI AIRPORT +32(0)71 258 060 cathy.tonsenst@jetaircenter.be

WEBRESERVATION www.flyonair.com CALL CENTER RESERVATION +39(0)34 567 345 789

28#

30#aiportlife

BRUSSELS SOUTH CHARLEROI IS ILS CATEGORY 3 APPROVED THE AIRPORT CAN COPE WITH JUST ABOUT ANY WEATHER CONDITIONS Belgocontrol and BSCA have successfully completed the calibration period for the Instrument Landing System (ILS) category 3 at Brussels South Charleroi Airport. Now that the airport is ILS category 3, aeroplanes can land there in just about any atmospheric conditions. Visibility of 200 metres is sufficient for landing aircraft at present. This limit will be further reduced to 150 metres within the next 6 months.

2008: ANOTHER RECORD YEAR FOR BRUSSELS SOUTH CHARLEROI WITH 2,957,026 PASSENGERS, A RISE OF 20%.

2008 allowed Brussels South Charleroi, Belgium’s most accessible airport, to set a new absolute record for passenger numbers. 2,957,026 passengers were recorded in 2008, compared with 2,458,980 in 2007, making a rise of 20%. In December, the airport had 235,728 passengers, a 16% increase on the same period in 2007.

12 NEW DESTINATIONS Brussels South Charleroi Airport will be flying to 12 new destinations this summer 2009, i.e. Prague with Wizzair, Reus, Alghero, Bratislava, Cagliari, Trapani and Trieste with Ryanair, Monastir and Djerba with Jetairfly, and Pescara, Catania and Napoli with Onair.

INTRODUCTION OF A DOOR-TO-DOOR SHUTTLE Brussels South Charleroi Airport has recently introduced door-to-door shuttles. A partner company takes passengers between the airport and their destination in Belgium by luxury minibus. You can book on the company’s website www.minibus-services.be or at the information desk at Brussels South Charleroi Airport.

32#PORTFOLIO

sArdAigne PHOTOS BY CAROLINE ROME

Craft manufacturing of the ricotta

Bosa Marina

Old town Alghero Torre Argentina

Olive grove

Bosa river Port of Bosa

Montains of the West coast

34#PORTFOLIO

Olive collect West coast. Oristano

FLIES TO ALGHERO & CAGLIARI

37#FOCUS WALLONIA

It came as no surprise to anyone who knew Jean-Michel Zecca to hear that the Belgian radio host from RTL-TVI and BEL-RTL had produced a book combining food, family, and Italy. Born forty years ago, Zecca has never hidden his passion for food and cooking, and in many of his interviews he has let us know that at his home, which he shares with Julie Taton, he is usually the one behind the stove. #

profile

ZECCA “LA CUISINE

DE MON PÈRE”

Son of a Belgian mother and an Italian father who had emigrated from the little white village of Gallipoli in Apulia, in the heel of Italy, Zecca grew up in the green belt of Charleroi, an area with which he still keeps strong links. As a boy and teenager, he spent his summer holidays back in what is known as “the pearl of the Ionian sea”, where he learned to understand the importance of “la famiglia”.

very authentic. The work is dedicated to Giorgio Zecca, Jean-Michel’s father, who died ten years ago, his love and respect for the world of his childhood untarnished. His culinary treasures start with Zucchini alla menta e basilico, followed by an exploration of antipasti, primi, pesci, contorni, and dolci such as insalata di arance, mezzelune con cime di rape noci e bottarga and pustraduzzi.

The cuisine of this up-and-coming area on the travellers’ map is a little different, a little less familiar that what food lovers generally expect in Italy. The Italians call it “una cuccina povera” which means a basic or poor cuisine, more reliant on pasta than meat and fish, even if we are on the coastline.

A good cookery book is a celebration of food and drink, and of an area and the people who care about it. I won’t say that you’ll find a lot of originality in the eighty recipes given by the author, but Zecca knows his onions and it is a pleasure to read this candid account of part of his story. #

The book takes us to a part of Italy which, until not so long ago, was still quite poor but

La Cuisine de Mon Père, Jean-Michel Zecca, Brussels, RTL Éditions, 2008, 192 pp. €25

38#WALLONIA

charleroi

If Charleroi welcomes strangers as if they were friends, it remains shy about revealing itself completely. A town with multiple identities, its geography tells a tale of layers with blurred edges.

And above all a town who is moving. #

A COMTEMPORARY TOWN FRANÇOISE RAES PHOTOS BY FRANÇOIS DE HEEL

The Sambre in the evening, viewed from Baudouin Bridge

Michèle Anne De Mey, choreographer and co-director of Charleroi Danses

On Baudouin Bridge, opposite the Gare du Sud. “The Miner”, a sculpture by Constantin Meunier

Administrative zone Pierre-Olivier Rollin, Director of B.P.S. 22

The entrance to Charleroi Danses

CBC Building in Place Albert 1er Xavier Canonne, Director of Charleroi’s Museum of Photography

“Dolisy” building

Place du Manège

40#WALLONIA

“It’s a town which conceals neither its sadness nor its joys,” explains Michèle Anne De Mey, co-director of Charleroi Danses. “Charleroi is anything but an easy town, which makes it interesting. I like its ill-assorted and paradoxical nature. Charleroi sometimes seems sad, but the people there are full of life and extremely warm, and perhaps a bit less depressed than elsewhere,” the chorographer continues.

Our first stop is B.P.S. 22, a venue dedicated to contemporary art, a 1 400 m2 industrial space made out of concrete, glass and iron.

Built rather in the style of a church, it was constructed in 1911 for the Charleroi Industrial Exhibition. “We are in an institution which is part of that heritage,” explains Pierre-Olivier Rollin, the venue’s representative and curator.

“People come to B.P.S. 22 to see works which question our era, rather than to experience pure aesthetics. The fact that the walls of B.P.S. 22 have not been washed to make it into a sleek, immaculate space is because we are located in one poor district of the town,” he explains. “Defending contemporary culture is sometimes difficult. The past is often idealised as a golden age which you cannot touch and contemporary art is all to do with breaking with the past.”

MIXED IDENTITY However, the place is also open to that pure simplicity you find at the bar of the Royal Nord, a bistro where football fans, lawyers, newspaper hacks and neighbours come together to enjoy “the best-served pils in the whole of Belgium” by Patrice Lejeune, the owner. “In my opinion, there is no specific Charleroi identity,” continues Pierre-Olivier Rollin over the frothy head of an Orval beer.

“Charleroi is made up of several layers of

FIND OUT MORE www.charleroi-danses.be | http:||bps22.hainaut.be www.designaddict.com | www.museephoto.be

identity. What’s more, there’s no strict Walloon identity here, it’s more what you might call a fusion.”

South Mont-sur-Marchienne is one of Charleroi’s green, spacious districts. This is where Patrick Everaert and his wife live. They are behind the DesignAddict website, which is one of the top 10 sites chosen annually by Forbes magazine. “What is most important in Charleroi, it’s the people. I couldn’t go back to living in Brussels because I’d miss the kindness and harmonious relationships of the people I rub shoulders with here terribly.

Furthermore, we are in constant contact with enthusiastic people from all over the world,” explains Patrick Everaert. The couple lives with and in one of the country’s finest design collections. “I don’t buy a name, I buy an object,” he explains. “Look around you.

My Charleroi looks nothing like the idea people might have of this town if they don’t really know it.”

A TOWN WHICH CONTINUALLY REINVENTS ITSELF In the opinion of Xavier Canonne, Director of Charleroi’s Museum of Photography (one of Europe’s finest dedicated to this art form), “Tournai and Mons came to a standstill at a certain moment in their histories, but Charleroi is a town which continually reinvents itself. In this respect, it shares similarities with cities in the US where the edges of the city always remain blurred. I think that I understand the town a little better every time I show foreign artists around it. Through their eyes, they show us our town in a different way. Charleroi is a kaleidoscopic town with post-modernist architecture. It is a strangely photogenic town.” #

COMIC STRIP: “MICHAËL MATTHYS… TIN TOWN” An exhibition at the Fine Arts Museum. With “Moloch” (Ed. Frémok, 2003) and “The Red Town” (Ed. Frémok, not yet published), Michaël Matthys (who was born in Charleroi in 1972) takes a sensitive and striking look at his home town of Charleroi, featuring original panels, engravings and videos on which these two comic strips were based.

Until 21 June 2009 at Charleroi Fine Arts Museum.

QUAYSIDE FLEA MARKET This impressive 24 hour flea market stretches for 4 km along the quayside of the Sambre.

It is held on the third weekend in June and features around 600 exhibitors. Street artists and fireworks add sparkle to the night.

20 and 21 June 2009.

COMIC STRIP AUTHORS ILLUSTRATE THEIR WALLONIA. The “les musées planchent sur les bulles” (museums talk about speech bubbles) exhibition is the product of an initiative carried out by museums which belong to the “Museums and Society in Wallonia” association.

The project has been assigned to comic strip class students from the ISBA in Liège. They have created twenty numbered panels and, through their speech bubbles, have tried to show their Wallonia in an off-beat way. From 1 to 27 May 2009 at Charleroi Region Tourist Office.

CONTACT CHARLEROI REGION TOURIST OFFIC 20, Place Charles II | 6000 Charleroi Tel. +32 71 86 14 14 | www.charleroi.be www.paysdecharleroi.be | office.tourisme@charleroi.be

TO SEE AND DO

in charleroi

42#WALLONIA

FINE ARTS MUSEUM Up until now, the Fine Arts Museum has shown works from the brief but rich artistic past of the Charleroi region, together with many exhibits by other renowned Walloon artists. It generally covers the 19th and 20th centuries, looking at the various major artistic and collective trends in the art history of Wallonia and Brussels. In future, the museum will also be opening up its collections to include contemporary creations. Palais des

B.P.S.22 FRÉDÉRIC LEFEVER “WE” The B.P.S.22 space for contemporary creation of the Province of Hainaut is hosting an exhibition of the work of the photographer Frédéric Lefever.

Born in Charleroi in 1965, he currently lives and works in La Madelainesous-Montreuil, Pas-deCalais. The artist is exhibiting a new collection of photographs relating to Wallonia. Until 14 June

Beaux-Arts | Place du Manège | 6000 Charleroi mba@charleroi.be www.charleroi-museum.org Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 9 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and from 1.15 p.m. to 5 p.m.

MUSEUMS AND ME Five museums in the Charleroi region have joined forces to provide high-quality, reasonablypriced guided tours. The first weekend of each month, you are invited to go on a special tour which takes around 90 minutes.

Just go to the Fine Arts Museum at 11 a.m. on the first Saturday of each month. Guided tours cost €5 per person.

BIS-ARTS FESTIVAL “2HORS” An amazing programme with artists from all over the world, all creating worlds which are often funny, sometimes worrying, but always fascinating, Charleroi’s Bis-Arts Festival also features concerts every evening at the Eden Brewery.

From 8 to 16 May 2009.

2009, Wednesday to Sunday, from 12 noon to 6 p.m. Admission: €3.

B.P.S.22 espace de création contemporaine 22, Boulevard Solvay B-6000 Charleroi Tel. +32 71 27 29 71 Fax +32 71 27 29 70 http://bps22.hainaut.be

44#PLACES TO BE

Notos

RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTOS BY CICI OLSSON

Wine in BRUSSELS Looking back to the beginning of the nineties, it’s hard to understand how different the relationship between wine and Brussels was then. # Apart from a few short-lived exceptions, there were no wine bars, and it was virtually impossible to order wine by the glass in restaurants or cafés. There were no selections from Germany, Austria, or Portugal, and virtually nothing from Australia, South Africa or South America. In restaurants and wine shops, with the exception of a handful of specialists, Italy was largely represented only by Chiantis, poor Bardolinos, and hundreds of bottles whose origins it was safer not to ask about. Spain was restricted to Rioja, and Portugal to Port and Matéus Rosé, while when it came to America, the reputation of the Napa Valley was better known than the wines themselves.

It’s difficult to explain in a few lines what has happened in the past twenty years in Brussels,

but we should mention the arrival of a new generation of sommeliers during the midnineties who, thanks to their knowledge, have done a great job of educating customers to appreciate higher quality and expect a large diversity of wines.

As a result, and to a much greater extent than Paris, which is often much too restricted to French products, Brussels is becoming one of the places to be if you enjoy great and fine wines. In the past five years, the European capital has seen many new wine bars and wine sold from wine cellarsemerg, some specialising in certain areas and types of wine. Most of them are located in a very French part of town, which includes Place du Châtelain, Place Brugman in Forest, Uccle, and Ixelles.

café Al Dente The Winery Quentin, le pain et le vin

Belga Queen

BEST ADDRESSES IN TOWN WHERE TO EAT THE WINERY. Best place for discovering rare wines or top properties from Languedoc, Spain or Bourgogne | place Brugman 18 BELGA QUEEN. Best Champagne bar in town. Specialising in Belgian wines, or wine grown and produced by Belgians | rue Fossé aux Loups 32 CHEZ MARIE. One of the best wine lists in Brussels.

This restaurant sports one Michelin star | rue Alphonse de Witte 40 BAR DU MARCHÉ. Great but small wine-by-the-glass list, but unfortunately, smoking is allowed | rue Alphonse de Witte 12 NOTOS. Amazing Greek restaurant with great and unknown Greek wines that the owner imports directly | Rue de Livourne 154 BAR DE LA POSTE. The new bar in town, specialising in biodynamically produced wines | chaussée de Waterloo 550 a QUENTIN, LE PAIN ET LE VIN. A pleasant place to drop in on a Wednesday (market day) afternoon) | rue du Page 7 MIGS WORLD WINES. If you’re looking for the pearl no-one has heard of, like wines from Tanzania, this is it where you’ll find it… | chaussée de Charleroi 43 OENO TK. Good place for “Les Vins de la Loire” | rue Africaine 29-31

BOOK Photographer Cici Olsson and writer René Sépul have recently published a book on wine in Brussels. This very practical guide book is an interesting key to the best wine bars, wine shops, and wine importers, as well as to the restaurants with the most interesting wine lists in town, from the most prestigious to the simplest. “Bruxelles Vins” is full of tips that should please any wine lover or specialist ready to explore the capital of the EU a different way.

Bruxelles Vins, 180° éditions, €19, sold in the main bookshops in town.

46#TRAVELLING WITH

Marrakech WITH QUENTIN WILBAUX A riad restored by the Belgian architect Quentin Wilbaux (www.darelqadi.com).

A Belgian architect and town planner, he was the pioneer in restoring the Medina of Marrakech. Quentin Wilbaux shows us around Marrakech, the “Pearl of the South�, a city with which he has had a love affair for more than twenty years. A valuable address book. #

Avenue Hassan II, close to the post office. Italian restaurant in a backyard shed. Light Mediterranean cuisine. A place loved by Casablancans, who come to warm up their ears before moving onto the nightclubs.

LOLO QUOI

AL FASSIA In the centre of Gueliz, right next to the ACR bookshop, one of the best Moroccan restaurants in Marrakech.

Dine à la carte on sophisticated traditional cuisine.

Managed, served and cooked by women. You will need to book in advance.

AQUA AQUA Opened only two months ago, the only “fashionable” place in Djemaa el Fna square. An informal, soberlydecorated café, “light” restaurant and pizzeria, with a lovely terrace on the first floor which opens out onto one of the best views Marrakech has to offer, namely Koutoubia minaret and square.

KECHMARA Rue de la Liberté. White décor, Knoll furniture.

A bar and restaurant, like those you find in Northern capitals, somewhat of an unusual and disorienting island within the red city.

The other side of Marrakech.

48#TRAVELLING WITH The shop shoe lovers form a stampede to. Original styles, inspired by the big brands, at Moroccan prices.

Rue de la Liberté. White décor, Knoll furniture.

A bar and restaurant, like those you find in Northern capitals, somewhat of an unusual and disorienting island within the red city. The other side of Marrakech.

ATIKA. RUE DE LA LIBERTÉ

KECHMARA

ACR BOOKSHOP Boulevard Zerktouni 55.

The publisher, originally from Marrakech, has opened a bookshop here which specialises in books on art. Of course, you will find the full collection of ACR publications, but also just about everything which has been published on Morocco and the Mediterranean arts.

TERRASSES DE L’ALHAMBRA Rustic décor with wrought iron and taddelakt, under canvasses which echo the designs on old ceremonial tents. A spot for drinking tea on cushions right next to Marrakech’s bustling main square.

Just behind Gueliz main post office. A fashionable venue for Marrakchis, this old café, which was fully modernised two years ago, has become one of the city’s “must go” places. Retro-colonial atmosphere, blinds, fans and dark wood. Brasserie-style cooking, for those who hark back to Old Europe.

In Passage Ghandouri, surrounded by the art galleries which are springing up all over Marrakech, this interior decorator sells inventive, well-finishedfurniture in a resolutely contemporary atmosphere. The fusion of traditional handicrafts and clean lines sets off quality materials.

DÉCORIENTE

GRAND CAFÉ DE LA POSTE

QUENTIN WILBAUX’S PUBLICATIONS The Medina of Marrakech, formation of urban spaces in Morocco’s ancient capital, L’Harmattan, Paris, 2002; Marrakech, the secret of the garden houses, ACR, Paris, 1999; Marrakech and the South of Morocco, Herme, Paris, 2001. Find out about his work and the riads which have been restored by visiting www.darelqadi.com.

E-mail: qwilb@hotmail.com

CAFÉ DES ÉPICES A new arrival in the picturesque Spice Square, the rahba kedima, this three-storey little café is a welcome oasis amid the souks.

VILLA ROSA Avenue Hassan II. Muffled English club atmosphere, library, chandeliers, red velvet. An old address given a new makeover. Impeccable service.

One of the best places to eat in Marrakech.

FLIES TO MARRAKECH

50#CITY-TRIP

IN CONVERSATION WITH I.B PHOTOS BY MARC VELGHE

Weekend in BUDAPEST

Marc Velghe, a Tournai restaurateur who likes to embrace other cultures, sets off on a journey of taste discovery to sample new horizons, both in terms of what’s on the plate and in terms of the feel of the place. This is his alternative take on the nearby and exotic Hungarian capital. #

53#CITY-TRIP

“After a short two hour flight, I arrived in Budapest at 7.30 p.m., just the right time to make the most of the evening. I stayed with Belgian friends who live in the Jewish quarter (district VII). However, I would recommend staying in the city centre, near to the Danube, a strategic location for joining in the enjoyable and dynamic nightlife. This is the time when exuberant young people come into their own.

You have to take the plunge and join in with the day to day lives of the population, deviating from the well-trodden paths of the historic buildings and the baths. This first evening, we went to Szimpla Kert (district VII), a trendy bar located in old houses which look a bit like squats. As you go through a central inner courtyard, you get the feeling you’re walking through several different flats. The furniture is a mishmash of different eras, and DJs mix fairly hardcore electro music at a volume which means you can still carry on a conversation comfortably.”

MARKET AND BATHS “During this weekend in Budapest, I travelled around exclusively on public transport, which is very functional and well run, comprising an old tube network, trams and buses. You never have to wait and you can buy a handy 3 day travel pass. That’s how I saw the city, stopping off at the oldest places. In particular, we walked along the Danube, some of the quays of which have been developed. At lunchtime on the second day, we ate at an Italian restaurant (Le Vapino in district V) in the city centre’s new modern and European shopping district. It’s the equivalent of Rue Neuve in Brussels.”

“Then we visited the large indoor market next to the Liberty Bridge (Szabadsag). You can find all kinds of regional food products there, including paprika, peppers and duck’s liver pâté. To round off the day, we took a trip to the huge Széchenyi outdoor baths (where the water temperature is 35 degrees), housed in a Neo-Baroque building behind a thermal spring, featuring hammams and saunas. People also play chess there. Two other indoor baths worth seeing are the Gellért in an Art Nouveau hotel and the extremely authentic Rudaz Turkish baths, which were built in the 16th century. The second night, we went to Ket Szerecsen, a typical little city centre restaurant in district VI Nagymez.”

“The view from the top of the Citadel takes in the entire city and the Danube, which divides the city into two parts: Buda on one side, which is somewhat hilly and residential, and Pest on the other, which is bustling and commercial. Large islands have been created along the river and a whole host of activities are organised in these magnificent parks, particularly sporting activities. Although it’s very cold in winter (-5 degrees when I went there in January), given the continental climate, the summers are hot and dry. That’s when you can hire bikes, and the Danube cools down the atmosphere.”

Marc Velghe runs the Le Corto Malté bar and restaurant in Tournai | 1, Rue Moncheur | +32 69 22 34 00 | www.cortomalte.eu

54#CITY-TRIP

PRACTICAL INFORMATION For tourist information, maps and places to see in Budapest, visit http://www.budapest.info.hu/ or www.hongrietourisme.com.

CURRENCY 1 Euro is worth around 295 Hungarian Forints (Hungary has been part of the European Union since 2004 but has not yet joined the Euro).

FOOD “People mainly eat the filling local cuisine, especially borscht and cabbage-based soups, served in typical little restaurants. Surprisingly, the décors are often highly original, and somewhat avant-garde.”

RECYCLED FASHION “You find unique little shops run by young people in Budapest. These include Betrock in district V Frerenczy Isvanou, which is owned by a designer who makes recycled T-shirts and accessories.”

FESTIVAL “In August, Sziget, a Dour Festival-style music festival, takes place on Obudai Island on the Danube. This year, it’s on from 12 to 16 August.” www.szigetfestival.com

FLIES TO BUDAPEST

56#wine Until less than two decades ago, the Portuguese wine industry was sadly out of date and had no ambition to shine beyond its borders.

If you were to discuss the topic with wine lovers, the only reference apart from Port, of course, would have been Mateus Rosé, a wine more suited to better student parties than quality restaurants.

The main change is a change of attitude that took place in the eighties. Until then, grapegrowing families all over Portugal were selling their grapes to big companies or cooperatives with low expectations and return. This was linked with legislation favouring cooperatives over small estates.

The changes have a lot to do with a few individuals who refused to follow out-dated rules, and with Portugal’s membership of joining the European Community.

In Barraida, Luis Pato has been one of these rebels for more than 20 years. “He is a duck (Pato, in Portuguese) that walks by himself”, writes Metcalfe, giving credit to a family that has been producing wine on Quinta do Ribeirinho since the 18th century.

Luis’s father, Joao, was already bottling his own wine in the seventies. He encouraged his son to have a nonconformist, pioneering attitude – giving him wings to fly higher – and now this son has probably done more than anybody else for the international visibility and reputation of the wines from the Barraida region. He

The Rebirth of

PORTUGUESE

WINE

RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTOS BY CICI OLSSON

“If it’s been a while since you tasted Portuguese wine, you’re in for a big surprise…”, these are the first words in a well-documented book recently published about wine and food in Portugal (1). #

revolutioniased the cellar, fitting it out to create wine which would have a modernist style without neglecting the traditional local character of the Baga, a grape that helps him to give a strong identity to many of his products.

He was a pioneer of the new era of Portuguese wines, adopting a professional attitude as a producer, and developing an innovative and dynamic strategy in order to attract attention to his wines internationally, on the European, Asian and American markets.

Domingos Alves De Souza is another big name. He qualified as an engineer and worked in the profession before returning to the family estates at Quinta da Gaivosa in the Douro, where his family has been making wine for generations. However, Domingos made the important decision to stop selling wine in bulk to the major port-blending houses, and embarked on the road to producing, bottling and marketing wines under his own label.

Today, his faith in quality and identity is paying off. Domingos has been elected “Producer of the Year” twice in seven years (1999 and 2006) by the Revista de Vinhos, a Portuguese wine magazine. One of his many fabulous products, the “Abandonado tinto”, a wine from a vineyard more than 80 years old that looks as if it has been abandoned, was awarded 94/100 by Robert Parker in 2007; the same wine scored 95/100 last year.

Both producers are members of the Independent Winegrowers Producers Association of Portugal (IWA), which represents 6 of the best producers of Portugal’s key wine region. # (1) The Wine and Food Lover’s Guide to Portugal, Charles Metcalfe & Kathryn Mc Whirter, 2007, Inn House Publishing.

CONTACT & VISIT LUIS PATO | Ribeiro da Gandara | 3780-017 Amoreira da Gandara | +35 1 231 596 432 QUINTA DA GAIVOSA | Pousada da Cumiera | Apartado 15 | 5030-055 Santa Maria de Penaguiao | +35 1 254 822 111

FLIES TO FARO & PORTO

58#trends Princesse Tam-Tam Gloss 503 structured swimsuit (€95) you can wear on dry land too because of the matching garden green top.

For more information, +32 2 506 10 40

Chanel fabric and white metal Bubble Quilt Bag (€1,650).

For more information, +32 70 66 55 55

Mock croc leather passport cover (€22.99), wallet (€29.99) and card holder (€19.99). White metal round chronograph watch with leather strap (€99.90). White metal “button” and “aeroplane” cufflinks (€19.99).

All from Celio Club.

For more information, visit www.celio.com/celioclub.

DESTINATION SUNSHINE Optical white, splashes of colour and subtle interplays of precious materials. A dip into the Spring-Summer 2009 ocean collections.# A Natan Collection silhouette which invites you to brighten up your ideas with colour! Nafy jacket, Nes skirt and Nazar top in cotton. Prices on request. For more information, +32 2 647 10 01

Dream getaway accessories at Delvaux this summer Santiag Beach weekend bag (€2,100) and D Mousseline Beach scarf (€120).

For more information, +32 2 738 00 40 Giorgio Armani knitted cotton beret (€130).

For more information, +32 2 513 79 81

An impeccable line and two elegant but original graphic colours.

Cats 5000 (€119) by Ray-Ban. For more information, +32 3 286 80 00

Louis Vuitton poker set so that you can devote yourself elegantly to this traditional game, which is more fashionable now than ever, while on the move.

Available to order from Louis Vuitton boutiques. For more information, +32 2 289 28 28

60#trends This Lady Dior mini bag is a compact containing a highlighter and a cheek/lip colour. Lady Chic

by Dior: €108.17 (limited edition).

Tender pink or coral nail varnish in a pen for this Spring/Summer. Nail Touch

by Yves Saint Laurent. €25.41.

A brush which delivers a dose of creamy powder.

Quick Blush

by Clinique: €28.70.

BEAUTY CASE This jewel padlock won’t lock your suitcases, but it does contain Kelly Calèche perfume extract, the feminine fragrance from Hermès. 7.5 ml (refillable): €140.

Colonia, Colonia Assoluta and Colonia Intensa (just for men, our picture) by Acqua di Parma. 30 ml travelspray in a leather case: €97. For more information +32 2 642 26 27.

61#travel hype

HIP NIGHT EFFECT

Philips earphones are available in more masculine black and white tones or in fashionable gold and purple hues. Quality hand in hand with comfort and elegance. From €29.99.

After Giorgio Armani, now Emporio Armani has teamed up with Samsung Mobile to create a new mobile phone which is both refined and elegant.

Called Night Effect, it is aimed at both nightclubbers and fans of music on the go. Extremely slender, the side lights up (in blue, red or green) when it’s on, and it has been especially designed to handle music files easily. RRP €300.

BEAUTY ON THE BEACH The Remington Dual Head Epilator can shave, thanks to its rounded shaving head, as well as epilate. Wireless, it slips into your luggage easily. Available for €59.95 from retailers including MediaMarkt, Collishop, Vandenborre and Krëfel.

HYPE ALL TERRAIN The new Xacti CA8 waterproof digital camcorder from Sanyo fears neither dust nor rain, and allows you to film underwater to a depth of 1.5 metres. Compact, it is fitted with an integrated camera. 5x optical zoom, 2.5 inch TFT display, 8 megapixel resolution, 239g, with a small SD card. Also available in black, white and orange. RRP €449.

62#hotspot

BRUSSELS BARCELONA

2009, YEAR OF THE COMIC STRIP

“LA GAVINA”

“La Gavina” is a Mediterranean restaurant serving fish and shellfish dishes outside in the old port, or underneath the arches of the “Palau de Mar”. Plaza Pau Vila, 1 | Edificio Palau de Mar | Barcelona 08039 Tel. +34 93 221 20 41 | +34 93 221 05 95

LONJA DE TAPAS

2009 is the Year of the Comic Strip in Brussels, and no fewer than 36 events (exhibitions, installations, etc.) are planned to celebrate the comic strip. A logical choice for a city which many comic strip writers call home, and where quite a few legends of the genre were born. In fact, Hergé (Tintin), Franquin (Gaston Lagaffe) and Peyo (The Smurfs) all came from Brussels. What’s more, Brussels is home to the Belgian Comic Strip Centre, a magnificent Art Nouveau building which is celebrating its 20th anniversary. See the entire programme at www.bruxellesbd.com. Belgian Comic Strip Centre | 20, Rue des Sables | www.cbbd.be

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Lonja de tapas is a bijou restaurant specialising in fish and seafood tapas in the port district close to Santa Maria del Mar.

Tucked away in Saint-Gilles, Café des Spores is a mushroom restaurant set in wood, tiles and glass. Dozens of species, from chanterelles and ceps to porcini and truffles, grace a short but inventive menu scribbled on giant blackboards, with a wine list designed not to overpower the delicate flavours. It’s a local favourite, so get here before the crowds do. Café des Spores |

7, Plaza del Palau | 08003 Barcelona | Tel. +34 93 268 7258 | www.lonjadetapas.com

103-108, Chaussée d’Alsemberg | Reservations +32 2 534 13 03 | www.cafedesspores.be

DUBLIN

ROCK HOTEL

Built in 1852, the hotel was taken over in 1992 by Bono and The Edge from the rock group U2, together with several Irish investors. More beer and whisky than champagne, the hotel’s Octagon Bar is frequented by a mixture of local businessmen, people who just want to see what it’s like and fans of U2. The Clarence has one of the best spas in the world. Owners Bono and The Edge have restored the legendary hotel, retaining the original 1900 character and adding a touch of rock ‘n’ roll crushed velvet and penthouse luxury. The Clarence | 6-8, Wellington Quay | www.theclarence.ie

FEZ

ORIENTAL SPLENDOUR

Chakir Sefrioui’s Moroccan fusion cuisine can be enjoyed at one of the city’s most beautiful riads. People also devour the décor with their eyes here in one of the three dining rooms, around the pool or on the roof terrace. A selection of authentic, refined and fragrant dishes. Riad Fes | Derb Ben Slimane | Zerbtana | www.riadfes.com

CULTURAL CROSSROADS

READER’S CORNER

The ultimate in literary cities (George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett were Dubliners), Dublin boasts a whole host of literary addresses. Well-located and split over three floors, as well as new and second-hand books, the Winding Stair Bookshop serves a varied range of dishes, in which local products (lamb, seafood, pork, etc.) and organic vegetables feature heavily.

The Winding Stair Restaurant + Bookshop | 40, Ormond Quay | www.winding-stair.com

A Café-Brasserie straddling several floors in the old clock house (the façade of which, the only example of its kind in the world, used to form a water clock dating back to the 15th century), this magical place serves a first-rate camel burger! The place also likes to think of itself as encouraging friendships and culture (cookery and oriental dance lessons, concerts, etc.). Café Clock | 7, Derb El Magana | Talaa Kbira | www.cafeclock.com

64#hotspot

MILAN MADRID

LOS HUEVOS DE LUCIO

In a street which is a “must” for foodies, and where you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to “mesones” and their various specialities (meson del jamon, meson del champinon, etc.), Los Huevos de Lucio stands next to the slightly more chic Casa Lucio. The owner of both addresses, the eponymous Lucio, wanted to create a place where people could enjoy a good meal in the relaxed atmosphere of a typical Madrid taverna. So what’s on the menu? Salads, peppers stuffed with meat, cheek of pork, bull’s tail, etc. Los Huevos de Lucio | 30, Calle Cava Baja | www.casalucio.es

TEMPLE’S GASTRONOMY

One of the most chic “delis” in Milan! An impressive selection of cheeses and pork meats, as well as a restaurant you can stop off at after a morning’s shopping. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth it for the experience, if only to provide a treat for the eyes. The essential tastes of Italian gastronomy are on offer, including fresh pasta, pumpkin ravioli, chicken and sweet potato croquettes and tiramisu. Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone | 12, Via Monte Napoleone

A NIGHT AT THE OPERA

LAS CUEVAS DE SESAMO

A typical and poetic sangria bar. Formerly frequented by writers, it retains the traces of its literary past on the walls, via the quotes written there. Today, people go there more for its bubbly basement atmosphere than to ponder upon these phrases. A classic when it comes to nights out in Madrid.

Built by the neo-classical architect Giuseppe Piermarini to replace the Royal Ducal Theatre after it was destroyed in a fire, Milan’s La Scala opened on 3 August 1778 with an opera by Antonio Salieri. The programme of operas for the end of April (24,29) and the begin of May (2,12,14,17) features The Rake’s Progress of Igor Stravinsky.

Stravinsky’s tale of the decline and fall of Tom Rakewell is particularly topical in today’s times of crises and fraud. The production, set in America in the 1950s, is by Robert Lepage, the great Canadian maestro of multimedia theatre. Teatro alla Scala |

Las Cuevas de Sesamo | 7, Calle Principe

2, Via Filodrammatici | www.teatroallascala.org.

MONTPELLIER

MEDITERRANEAN MEETS ASIA

Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, the twin brothers behind “Le Jardin des Sens”, Montpellier’s two Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, have given the menu of La Compagnie des Comptoirs an exotic and modern twist. Without ever losing sight of their Southern roots, they invite diners on a journey of taste discovery. The fillet of sea bass is cooked in a banana leaf and served with cep penne. A refreshing double. La Compagnie des Comptoirs | 51, Rue François Delmas | www.lacompagniedescomptoirs.com

MAMMOTH MUSEUM

With a surface area of 9,200 m2 and around 900 works spanning the 15th century to the 21st century featuring on a themed and chronological tour, the Fabre Museum is one of the largest in France. Alongside its permanent collections, it also hosts temporary exhibitions. Up until May, these include a retrospective dedicated to Emil Nolde, a major figure in German expressionism, whose abundant work still finds echoes in contemporary art. The Fabre Museum | 13, Rue Montpelliéret | http://museefabre.montpellier-agglo.com

ROME

DIVINE COMEDY

The Hotel Aleph is located right in the centre of Rome, close to the famous Via Veneto.

This 5 star hotel was designed by the architect Adam D. Tihany on the theme of Dante’s Divine Comedy. The designer was particularly inspired by hell (represented by sensually luxurious spaces dominated by the colour red), with paradise being brought to mind by the Heaven Spa. Quite a programme! Hotel Boscolo Aleph | 15, Via di San Basilio | www.aleph.boscolohotels.com

BOOK BAR

Brunch or coffee in the daytime and a cocktail with some Swedish nibbles in the afternoon.

The Scandinavian owner of this original literary bar has skilfully blended styles to recreate a “New York penthouse meets world” vibe, with 1950s sofas, Murano lights and Art nouveau brocade. The modern rubs shoulders with the vintage at this extraordinary address, where you can flick through books on art, photography, design, fashion, cinema and music. Il Salotto 42 | 42, Piazza di Pietra (Pantheon) | www.salotto42.it

66#hotspot

SALAMANCA

FROM ROTTERDAM TO SALAMANCA

History doesn’t tell us whether Erasmus journeyed as far as Salamanca, but the humanist has certainly inspired a bar there. Behind its doors is hidden a little piece of the Netherlands. Wooden benches, traditional house façades painted on the walls and bicycles hanging from the ceiling all remind us of the homeland of Erasmus. The menu features a wide range of local and foreign beers (including Belgian beers), as well as traditional Dutch dishes and good wines. ERASMUS Bruin Café | 7, Calle Meléndez | www.erasmuscafe.com

WARSAW

SEE AND BE SEEN

Something of an institution, and a classic in the world of patisseries, the Blikle café is the place to see and be seen in. This café, which dates back to the 19th century, is frequented by little old ladies and families on a spree, as well as businessmen, expatriates and a growing number of tourists. People can’t resist their ponczki, a kind of traditional doughnut with a rose jam filling. Delicious!

Blikle | 35 ul. Nowy Swiat | www.blikle.pl

INJECT SOME COLOUR INTO YOUR KITCHEN!

ELECTRIC NIGHTS

The concept of this little shop is to combine cookery with design. You can find all types of decorative items, but mainly revised and updated cooking implements. Colourful and amusing, yet still practical. The shop also sells pasta in all shapes and colours. If you’re looking to brighten up your kitchen, you’ll love this place. Past & Decor | 33, Calle Iscar Peyra

Nights are electric in this nightclub/bar/ restaurant. Szparka (The Little Slot) serves international cuisine but, predominantly, businessmen and trendy night revellers crowd there every evening in the sticky heat of a feverish atmosphere. Its décor is imposing. The music played there is mostly jazz, soul and pop. Szparka | 16a, Pl. Trzech Krzy¨zy

67#podcast Podcasts are audio or digital broadcasts distributed over the Internet, that anyone can download and listen to whenever they want want.

Podcasting started a few years ago – the term being a portmanteau of the words “Ipod” and “Broadcast”, following theappearance of the Ipod. It is today considered to be a new and alternative way of picking and choosing audio content. # RENÉ SÉPUL New technologies have made the process quite easy to use. Using simple Podcatching utilities, users can access shows or programmes when they want, receive updates whenever there is a new show available, and add the shows to a portable MP3 player or a mobile phone that will go with them wherever they want.

Podcasts are great tools because they’re a simple medium that can be adapted to multiple audiences, from children to adults. There is already a wide range of travel podcasts, from professionally produced programmes by magazine and book publishers to homemade podcasts by enthusiastic travellers.

Programme length varies from about 5 to 30 minutes, and the formats range from documentaries to talk shows. Most of the popular travel websites and magazines now have regular podcasts that are often available for free subscription or individual download of programmes. Here you’ll find general information about countries, cities or areas you’re planning to visit, as well as arts centres, exhibitions, and museums in which podcasts can replace the usual audio tours.

In association with Vodafone, the UK newspaper The Independent was one of the first newspapers to offer a real Travel Podcast Service designed to give an insider's guide to a variety of cities around the world. Hosted by their travel editor, Simon Calder, the service combines the experience of their regular travel writers with on-the-spot local knowledge.

Check www.theindependent.co.uk, and you’ll find Simon on his journeys to some of the world's greatest travel destinations, like Barcelona, Nice, Athens or Dublin, and experience the inside story from the people who know. #

SEE ALSO As is often the case, you’ll find many more interesting propositions in English than in French. www.paperblog.fr has an interesting Travel section. ITUNES Music Store has a huge number of podcasts, including a travel section: www.apple.com/itunes.

LONELY PLANET: www.lonelyplanet.com has a Travel Podcast section from around the world.

HOTELWORLD.COM: www.hostelworld.com offers City Guides podcasts.

ROUGH GUIDES: www.roughguides.com offers a monthly Rough Guides Podcast providing very useful and practical information.

THE INDIE TRAVEL PODCAST, a weekly show that gives you ideas and advice, is on www.indietravelpodcast.com.