Gate #2

THE OFFICIAL BRUSSELS SOUTH CHARLEROI AIRPORT MAGAZINE

gaT #JUILLET 2009

© SERGE ANTON

#2

TENERIFE LAND OF FIRE

#PORTFIOLIO

#ESCAPE SLOVENIA BEAUTIFUL, CHEAP & AMAZING

PRAGUE A CULT CITY

#CITY BREAK

EDITORIAL Have you ever seen a beating hart, made out of diamonds and gems? Or a former communist palace filled with disco lights and pumping techno beats? An island with black beaches and “Eternal Spring” at only 2 hours flying from Belgium? Or one of the world’s largest Mosques that transforms into a patio? You can discover all this, and much more, by flying from Brussels South Charleroi Airport this summer!

The ruby red beating hart is one of the stunning jewels created by Salvador Dalí and on display in his museum in Figueres, which is only half an hour drive from Girona Airport. During the month of August you can even visit Dalí’s theatre museum at night while sipping a glass of cava. Ryanair flies twice a day to Barcelona-Girona.

For those who like to dance all-night, the latest hype is to party within former communist palaces in Sofia and Bucharest. Check out locally which venue is still “hot” and which one is not. Wizzair flies 3 times per week to Sofia and 4 times per week to Bucharest.

Tenerife has soft black beaches and an average temperature of 21° which makes it feel like “Eternal Spring”. To experience it yourself Jetairfly flies twice a week to Tenerife.

An enormous prayer hall that can become a patio in 3 minutes thanks to its retractable roof is situated in Casablanca. The great Hassan II mosque has a 200m high minaret that makes it the highest religious building in the world. This architectural gem is also open to nonMuslims outside prayer time. Flights to Casablanca from Brussels South Charleroi Airport are operated daily by AirArabia and 6 times per week by Jet4you.

We look forward to making your travel -to one of the over 60 destinations- a pleasant and comfortable experience and wish you “bon voyage” from Belgium’s friendliest airport!

EDMEE DE GROEVE CEO - President of the Board

photo cover: Serge Anton, Tenerife

#2

CONTENTS

6 PROFILE# JUSTIN ONCLIN, WINEMAKER 8 TABLE TALK# BUDAPEST, MILAN, ZARAGOZA, BIARRITZ 13 PORTFOLIO# TENERIFE, LAND OF FIRE 18 ESCAPE# SLOVENIA 24 yellow pages# 26 destinations# 28 airportlife# 32 IMPRESSIONS# BRATISLAVA 36 FOCUS WALLONIA# CHARLEROI, THE “BOIS DU CAZIER”

39 WALLONIA# AGENDA 40 PLACES TO BE# LA ROCHELLE 44 TRAVELLING WITH# MANCHESTER 48 CITY BREAK# PRAGUE 54 wine# 56 trends# 58 travel hype# 60 hotspot# 68 podcast#

Editorial Director: Christiane Thiry | Assistant: Hélène Rivière | Founder: Eric Poelemans | Writers: Emmanuel Batiot, Isabelle Blandiaux, Nicolas Bogaerts, David Gering, René Sépul, Mishka Tighil | Art director: Dominique Hambye | Printing: Sodimco | Sales & Marketing: Eric Poelemans (Brussels South Charleroi Airport) – Mobile : +32(0)475 53 31 18 – e.poelemans@charleroi-airport.com; MarieNoëlle Raquez (RGP) – Mobile : +32(0)475305599 – marienoelle.raquez@saipm.com | Gate is published on behalf of BSCA by IPM | All correspondence should be addressed to: BSCA – Gate Rue des Frères Wright, 8 6041 Charleroi Belgium – gate@charleroi-airport.com

Justin Onclin

WINEMAKER WRITTEN BY RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTO BY CICI OLSSON

7#PROFILE

In 2008, Justin Onclin was elected “Belgian Wine Personality of the Year”. He divides his time between Belgian Limburg, where he was born, and Bordeaux, where he owns four domaines. # After working as a sales manager with John Monard, a Belgian wine importer, Justin Onclin went to Bordeaux in 1982, where he set up the firm Sovex Grands Châteaux – today “Sovex-Woltner”. The initial aim was to create a firm of wine merchants targeting export markets, mainly in Europe.

Aware that the prestigious producers of Grand Crus only used to sell their wines to merchants firmly established in Bordeaux, Mr Onclin had to start by persuading the Belgian importers of the interest in having a compatriot based in Bordeaux, while simultaneously convincing the producers of the advantages of working with somebody familiar with the specificities of the Belgian market.

Skillfully combining his passion for wine with a sharp sense of business, Onclin quickly became a strong link between the two.

A bit of a headhunter, Mr Onclin sought out as yet unknown but promising producers, all the while gaining the confidence of the most prestigious “Domaines of Grands Crus Classés” from which he started to receive small amounts. Thus, during the 90’s, the company managed to make a strong place for itself on the French market. From 1998, the company decided to target markets outside Europe, particularly in the US and Asia.

Mr Onclin has also invested in a few properties of his own. “I would have missed something important if I hadn’t been able to make my own wine”, he says with a smile.

“This is a challenge that can give you a

stronger reputation in the wine world – you can’t afford to miss the opportunity.”

In 1999, he joined forces with the group Ballande, and together they took over the Château Prieuré-Lichine, 4th Grand Cru in A.O.C Margaux, which he manages. In 2002, he bought the Château Branas Grand Poujeaux, in Moulis, which is now run by his daughter Carmen, and Château Villemaurine, Grand Cru Classé, one of the oldest vineyards in Saint-Emilion. In all these places, the Belgian arrived with the intention of respecting the heritage and the roots of the wine, while at the same time improving it with his visionary drive and a contemporary approach. Château Branas in particular is an estate that has produced beautiful results. # PRACTICAL For visits, please book ahead, Bordeaux is not as easy to visit as vineyards in Alsace, Burgundy or Beaujolais.

CHATEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE | 34 Avenue de la République | 33460 Cantenac | T. +33 5 57 88 36 28 CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE | 23 Villemaurine Sud | 33330 St Emilion | T. +33 5 57 74 46 44 CHÂTEAU BRANAS GRAND POUJEAUX | 33480 Moulis-en-Médoc | T. +33. 5 56 58 93 30 There are two flights a week from Charleroi Airport from July onward, with prices starting at 24.99 €. The village of Saint Emilion is located 60 km from Bergerac-Roumanière Airport.

Cantenac and Moulis in Médoc are just a little over 60 km from Saint Emilion.

8#TABLE TALK Last year, Budapest was voted one of the “Best Places to Live in Europe” by experts at American business magazine Forbes.

Nicknamed “The city of Spas”, the Hungarian capital also has a reputation as a food capital, that dates back to the late 19th century. #

BUDAPEST RENÉ SÉPUL

BOSCOLO NEW YORK PALACE The city’s restaurant scene has seen an incredible transformation in the last fifteen years, and, believe me, almost every style of cooking can now be found on the menus of the city’s restaurants. The spacious Café Gerbeaud is an institution in Pest, where it has been serving coffees and cakes since 1858. Its theatrically gilded interior seats more than 300, making it one of the biggest cafés in Europe. The café of the Boscolo New York Palace, for years the meeting point for intellectuals and artists, is another institution. This building, with its neo-Renaissance architecture, was built in 1889 by a Mr. Hauszman, to house the offices of the American insurance company New York Life. The street level café opened in the same year. The style is quite stunning, blending Rococo and Byzantine, with columns, countless mirrors and small mezzanines designed to accommodate the secret meetings of the past. This was already “the” place to be seen in in Budapest from 1900 to 1930. It is said that one day playwright Ferenc Molnar threw the café’s keys into the Danube to ensure that it would never close. # Gerbeaud Vörösmartyr tér 7/8 | Boscolo New York Palace | Erzsébet krt. 9-11 | 1073 Budapest | Tel. 36 1 8866111 www.boscolohotels.com | Prices from 127 € for a double including breakfast. Offers and packages on Internet. Daily flights to Budapest with Wizz Air.

The glitz is back to Biarritz. The posh seaside town in southwest France is enjoying a renaissance, as people discover the appeal of this gastronomic destination. Once the vacation spot for Europe’s noble and gentry classes, Biarritz’s shores are now shared by everyone from bronze beauties to surfers, professional golfers or beach lovers. #

BIARRITZ

HOTEL DU PALAIS Hotel du Palais is without any doubt the place to stay. Facing the Grande Plage, this hotel soaked in history from when it was the palace of Napoleon III’s Spanish-born wife, Eugénie.

There is a spa, a miniature golf course and a pool that was inaugurated in the 50’s by Bing Crosby, Gary Cooper and Jayne Mansfield. This pool is probably the best place to sip a glass of Jurançon, a local wine, or to watch the world go before reaching Villa Eugénie for dinner.

Jean-Marie Gautier, chef of the hotel’s famous restaurant, is famous for working with typical ingredients of the Aquitaine region, such as fish and seafood, goose and duck-liver creations, truffles and porcini, as well as Bordeaux wines. He draws on a vast reservoir of epicurean treasures but has a knack for uniting them with solidly down-to-earth ingredients in a very innovative way. # 1, Avenue de l’Impératrice | www.hotel-du-palais.com | In June 09, the “Imperial Golf package” included accommodation, green fee in one of the 11 golf courses of the region and free access to the Imperial Spa for 275 € per person. Daily on Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday to Pau with Ryanair.

10#TABLE TALK Spain is a favorite destination for holidaymakers, but how many of us ever venture beyond Barcelona, Seville, Madrid or the Costas?

If you venture into the Spanish provinces, you might enjoy a night i n a Parador, one of the government-owned hotels in a chain with locations in some of the most beautiful properties and sites. #

ZARAGOZA

PARADOR DE ALCANIZ There have been complaints in the past about the way they are run – civil servants are not natural hoteliers –, but progress has been made. In 2009, the chain celebrates its 80th anniversary and is highlighting its gastronomy as a symbol of all those years of success, with menus in each hotel based on traditional Spanish cuisine, prepared using local seasonal produce.

Built on the la Cumbre Cerro Pui Pinos hill top, the Parador de Alcaniz is a 12th-13th Century castle convent that became the headquarters of the Order of Calatrava in 1179. This Parador, which dominates the Maestrazgo landscape, has several preserved buildings, and, with its gothic murals and baroque façade, is decorated in shades of red, ochre and green, and has oak beams. As to food, the local specialties are huevos a la alcanizana (an Alcañiz–style egg dish), ternasco Asado (roast young lamb) and tortas de Alma y Almendrados (an almond tart). Enjoy trying these with the local wines of Somontano and Carinena.# Parador de Alcaniz | Castillo Calatravos | 44600 Alcaniz | www.parador.es | Prices from 155 € without breakfast (15 €). Ryanair flights to Zaragoza (Pyrenees) every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday. The airport is 105 km from Alcaniz.

On the western shore of Lake Garda there is an earthly paradise.

Built in 1892, the neo-gothic Villa Feltrinelli was designed by the sons of a wealthy Italian magnate as the family’s summer residence. #

BERGAMO

VILLA FELTRINELLI In 1997, this castellated, pink-striped villa was converted into a luxury hotel by Bob Burns, the founder of Regent International Hotels, who gave new life to a residence that counts Mussolini among its less desirable guests (Il Duce was imprisoned here by the Germans from 1943-5).

The € 24-million refurbishment of the villa, with no expense spared, took 5 years, culminating in the creation of the luxurious suites that are spread over the 8 acres of this lake-front property.

Mr. Burns restored the villa and its surroundings to the highest standards imaginable. Design teams from around the globe were consulted about period features and stylistic coherence in the modernisation of a location filled with antiques. Opened in 2001, the Villa Feltrinelli is nevertheless said to have the welcoming atmosphere of a country house rather than a hotel.

But bear in mind that’s not the best place to go with kids, especially if yours are football crazy like mine! Dinner is served in the covered dining pergola adjacent to the main dining room overlooking Lake Garda, where guests can enjoy the view as they dine by the light of Venetian chandeliers. # A Villa Feltrinelli | Via Rimembranza 38-40 | Gargnano | Tel. 39 0365 798000 | www.villafeltrinelli.com | Prices from 800 € | Offers and packages on Internet. 3 flights per day to Milan Bergamo with Ryanair. The airport is 96 km from the hotel.

13#PORTFOLIO

tEnErife LAND OF FIRE PHOTOS BY SERGE ANTON

14#PORTFOLIO

16#PORTFOLIO

FLIES TO TENERIFE ON WEDNESDAY & SATURDAY

LA SIESTA HOTEL Located on the best part of the Playa De Las Americanas, this elegant hotel has 282 rooms each with a fully equipped bathroom, air conditioning, telephone, satelite television and minibar. Renovated in 2004, it offers a furnished terrace and nice restaurants. The hotel has also a seawater swimming pool for adults and a separate one for children. www.jetair.be

Piran, city-museum and his bell tower, on the edges of Mediterranean Sea. Walking in the National park of Triglav.

19#ESCAPE

RENÉ SÉPUL

SLOVENIA BEAUTIFUL, CHEAP AND AMAZING

In front of us, there was the old part of the city – curving cobblestone alleys and streets, a river that traced a slender curve between centuriesold buildings, quiet plazas with statues, and a patchwork of red tiled roofs. Memories of Istria. #

It could have been Italy, or maybe even France. But with my back to the horizon, I was gazing at verdant hills rising into the one of the continent's most majestic landscapes – the stony, vertiginous Alps, a scene that could have been in Switzerland, or maybe even Austria.

But there was something different in the mood, more space. There were very few tourists about and I remember that nobody worried about money because everything was so cheap, especially hotels and restaurants. The warm, welcoming smiles of curious, friendly people were signs that I was moving along a less travelled path in a very hospitable country.

This was in Slovenia, a country that in a previous life was part of the Federation of Yugoslavia, but today shares borders with Croatia, Austria and Italy. The country has only about two million inhabitants and covers an area smaller in size than Wallonia.

BEACHES, OLD CITIES AND PICTURESQUE VILLAGES IN SLOVENE ISTRIA You’ll find the sea in Slovenia. There are no really good long beaches here, but there are old cities like Piran, with its wonderful architecture. This medieval town has dominated the bay for centuries, and has always depended on the sea for its living. Not far

20#ESCAPE

from here, have a look at Izola and Koper; throughout history this town has ruled over the region, as can be seen from its art, architecture and customs.

The hills of the hinterland of Slovene Istria roll like waves. Here you find scattered picturesque villages of stone houses clustered around their church for protection, where the rhythm of life is devoted to earth and nature.

KARST The Karst is a region of plains which sits like an upper storey above the coast and the Gulf of Trieste, a step towards the foothills of the Julian Alps. The region hides a series of underground caves of the varying sizes and great beauty. The Vilenica Cave, which lies near the village of Lokev, has the longest tradition of caving tourism in Europe.

As early as 1633 Count Petazzi, the local landowner, gave the cave to the local parish, which managed it as a resource and opened it up to visitors. Probably the most popular tourist site in Slovenia, the Postjona Cave, is a remarkably long system, which, thanks to the erosion powers of the Pivka River, is one of the most beautiful in the world. The Skocjan Caves have been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1986. They contain over 5 km of subterranean trails, sinkholes and waterfalls. With some parts as deep as 200 m, these caves are a phenomenal natural wonder, as well as being a major source of Bronze Age artifacts.

HIKING AND CYCLING PARADISE Slovenia has become an increasingly popular destination for hiking and cycling.

Thanks to the diversity of its terrain, there

are plenty of possibilities for everyone.

Families and leisure cyclists will enjoy valleys and flat areas with quiet roads, while advanced cyclists and mountain bikers can take on Alpine mountain passes and some of the most spectacular trails in this part of the world. To make your cycling holidays as varied as possible, the Slovenian Tourist Board (STB) has harmonised and expanded services. You’ll find cycling hotels, hostels, campsites and farms devoted to this kind of tourism. Cyclists and bikers will find maps of cycling tours and routes, marked cycling routes and trails, qualified cycling guides, bicycle hire and a few bicycle repair shops.

See www.slovenia.info/org Selected by National Geographic Traveler in its “50 Tours of a Lifetime 2007”, Slovenia is also a sublime alpine hiking destination.

The rugged Julian Alps are just as dominating and beautiful as the Swiss and French Alps, but they come with one very big difference – far fewer hikers. The Slovenian National Park of Triglav is a great destination.

Named after the highest mountain of Slovenia, it has a storybook landscape of dramatic mountain peaks, picturesque hamlets, shimmering alpine lakes, and historic sites dating back to the Iron Age. There are also pleasant walks suitable for beginners near Podkoren, an Alpine village in the vicinity of Kranjska Gora, from which you can reach Mount Pec, a 1508 high peak on the frontier with Slovenia, Italy and Austria. There are many other walks around Kranjska Gora, Martuljek, the Lake Bled region, and the gorgeous Soca River valley. The Vintgar Gorge, the Pokljuka high plateau, and Lake Bohinj are destinations for advanced hikers.

Peninsula of Piran and the bay of Portoroz, pearl of Istria.

Kayaking on the river Soca.

Walking in Julian Alps.

The grapevine, another reason to go there.

22#ESCAPE

LJUBLJANA With a population of 300,000 that includes 60,000 college students, Ljubljana has enough genuine charm to withstand exposure.

Although not all of this relatively compact city is of interest, its old part, which lies at the centre, is well worth a visit. Its most picturesque streets lie along the Ljubljanica river, which is latticed with stone bridges and hemmed by weeping willows. From the 16th-century fortress walls on top of Castle Hill, the view of the capital city is exquisite: waves of red-tiled roofs, turquoise domes, spires and, here and there, lacy bridges spanning the river, stitching the two sides of the capital city together.

Offering a graceful marriage of Slavic, Austrian, and Italian cultures, the city started to gain a reputation as an up-and-coming hotspot not long after Slovenia became independent. The arts scene includes a local opera company, an orchestra, and a music festival that runs all summer long.

The best place for imbibing the atmosphere is Preseren Square, the city's bustling social hub, which is anchored by the 17th-century Franciscan Church of the Annunciation and monastery and the Triple Bridge. On the other side of the twin-towered Cathedral of St. Nicholas, the outdoor market is a blaze of color where farmers bring their produce from villages like Trnovo and Krakovo.

WINES Slovenia has an impressively long tradition of wine making. Comparisons are already being made between Slovenia and Burgundy. Those who like to spend their holidays wine tasting will love this country.

There are no really huge wine producers here, and what travellers will usually find will be small, family-owned businesses and a warm welcome from the locals.

The country’s diverse geography creates a variety of microclimates. Goriska Brda and the Vipava valley are among the most famous wine growing areas. Primorska has a very visible Mediterranean influence, and many vineyards are located on the foothills of Julian and Karavanke Alps. Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon are among the most frequent grape varieties grown here, but more and more producers are going for local and less well known varieties such as Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, Kerner, Pikolit, Vitovska, Sipon or Pinela, which offer very individual, different wines. To find out which producers to visit, take a look at the brochure Wine Road of the Lower Vipava Valley, published by the tourist authority. #

INFO General info: www.slovenia-tourism.si Getting There: Ryanair flies from Charleroi to Trieste – Aeroporto Friuli Venezia Giulia – twice a week, on Sundays and Wednesdays.

The border is a few kilometres from the airport.

Getting Around: The most efficient way to travel into Slovenia is by car. Major car rental a gencies have desks at the airport

WHERE TO STAY LJUBLJANAL | ANTIQ HOTEL | Gornji trg 3L | Cosy and charmingL | www.antiqhotel.si PIRAN | HOTEL PIRAN | From 80 € for a double out of season, with breakfast | www.hoteli-piran.si PORTOROZ | HOTEL EXCELCIOR | The hotel has completed a five-year restoration program, and has both a historic building and a newly-built modern section. Amazing view and a luxurious spa | See www.kempinski-portoroz.com AGRITOURISM | KABAJ MOREL | www.kabaj.eu FLIES TO TRIESTE ON WEDNESDAY & SUNDAY

24#yellow pages

Rue des Frères Wright 8 6041 CHARLEROI (Belgium) +32 71 251 211 bsca@charleroi-airport.com WEBSITE www.charleroi-airport.com

WEBSITE www.flyonair.it CALL CENTER +39 058 432 22 38

WEBSITE www.jet4you.com CALL CENTER BELGIUM 078 160 222

WEBSITE www.ryanair.com CALLCENTERS Belgium French speaking 0902 88 007 Belgium English speaking 0902 88 009 International English speaking +353 1 248 08 56

DOOR TO DOOR SHUTTLE A partner company takes passengers between their destinations in Belgium (www.minibus-services.be) & North of France (www.aeronavex.fr) by luxury mini-bus.

WEBSITE www.jetairfly.com CALLCENTER 070 22 00 00 JETAIRCENTER CHARLEROI AIRPORT CharleroiAirport@jetaircenter.be +32 71 258 062

WEBSITE www.wizzair.com CALL CENTER BELGIUM 0903 41 405 WEBSITE www.airarabia.com

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28#airportlife

CHARLEROI

AIRPORT Behind the Scenes RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTOS CICI OLSSON

1

SAFETY AND SECURITY Do follow safety and security instructions: they’re for your own good! Hand luggage must go through an obligatory x-ray control and may also be subject to a visual or manual search. If you have keys or any other metal objects in your pockets, put them in a tray to go through the x-ray control. The same goes for any items you may be wearing, even if not metal, such as watches, bracelets, necklaces, belts etc, coats, jackets and sometimes even shoes!

It is strictly forbidden to carry any sharp objects like knives, scissors, cutters, or any kind of weapon or object that could be used as a weapon, in your luggage. Any object of this type will be removed at security checks and may be destroyed without compensation. lf you wear a pacemaker or any other orthopaedic implant, please inform the security officer and do not go through the metal detector gate.

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LUGGAGE Never leave your luggage unattended inside the terminal.

The regulations require immediate destruction of any baggage that seems lost and therefore suspect, and no compensation will be paid.

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LUGGAGE PROCEDURES Only one piece of hand luggage per person is allowed in the cabin. The dimensions cannot exceed 55cm x 20cm x 40 cm. Hand luggage includes bags, suitcases, briefcases, laptop bags, baby care bags, camera bags and similar articles.

Most airlines allow passengers to check in two pieces per paying customer. With Ryanair, checkedin baggage must not exceed 15 kg. Check out the specific rules for your company before departure.

A fee is charged for luggage exceeding the permitted limit and for special items such as bicycles and surfboards. Compliance with the regulations is good for your safety as well as your wallet!

YOUR RIGHTS IN THE EVENT OF DELAY If your flight is delayed (2 hours for flights up to 1,500 km, 3 hours for all intra-Community flights of more than 1,500 km, and all other flights between 1,500 and 3,500 km) the airline has to provide free refreshments, restaurant vouchers, and even hotel accommodation if the delay extends overnight, as well as the opportunity to make two telephone calls.

Whatever the route, if the delay is over 5 hours, you are entitled to full penalty-free reimbursement of the cost of your ticket.

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5

3 ADVICE 1. Do not use luggage straps, turnbuckles, or clamps to secure your luggage 2. Put identification tags on the inside and the outside of the luggage with both your home and destination addresses.

3. Keep your medication and valuables, such as cameras, jewellery, electronic equipment or money, with you.

SUMMER 2009.

A RECORD TO BEAT‌ Between June and August 2008, , 815,894 passengers passed through Charleroi Airport, an increase of 23%. We are looking forward to a new record, as a result of the combined attraction of new destinations with those that have proved successful in the past.

The New Bridge.

An old tram.

Bratislava main square

The National Theatre.

A castle dominates the city.

A communist monument.

The blue church.

33#IMPRESSIONS

ISABELLE BLANDIAUX

Honorary Consul for the Slovak Republic, Mario Annaert invites us to discover a complex capital a long way from the clichés. #

BRATISLAVA from the other side of the

MIRROR The only person to volunteer to emigrate to Slovakia in 2000, at the request of his employer Dexia, Mario Annaert fell in live twice over whilst he was there. With his wife and with the country, “a hidden gem, 40% covered with forest”. At the end of his three year contract, the couple came back to Belgium but have continued to live between the two European countries. Now Honorary Consul for the Slovak Republic, Mario Annaert runs a waste recycling company which is particularly active over there and is working on developing economic links between Bratislava and Brussels as a consultant. “It’s sixteen years ago that Czechoslovakia was divided into two, but a lot of the people I meet don’t remember and get Slovakia and Slovenia muddled up …” The psychological wall bet-

ween West and East remains. “People often think that it’s a poor, disorganised country, that the population there is withdrawn…

These pre-conceptions are totally wrong.

The Slovaks quickly prove to be friendly and welcoming, they are fiercely proud and attached to values which have got somewhat lost over here, such as the family. Bratislava has changed enormously. The capital has always played an important role, including between the 16th and 19th centuries, when it played host to the coronations of the Kings of Hungary. It retains many Baroque features from this era, mixed with the strictly Communist buildings (concrete on the outside, wood on the inside) and those of a modern city. It’s one of the things I like about it, this contrast between styles. And

The average age of the population of Bratislava is very young.

A city on a human scale with lots of pedestrians.

Bizarre, life-size statues liven up the city.

A building from the Communist era.

the fact that the population there is very young (average age 36) because that’s where you study, find work and live it up in the bars and clubs.”

ON FOOT, BY BIKE, TRAM, CAR OR BOAT Situated 1 hour away (50 km) from Vienna (“the two closest capitals in Europe”), 2 hours from Budapest and 3-4 hours from Prague, the “little big city” as the tourist slogan calls it, proves to be “compact and easy to visit in two or three days”. “A large pedestrianised area covers the points of historical interest. Several palaces (Archbishop’s Palace) are worth visiting, as is the Cathedral of Saint Martin. The trams and buses are very practical and there are no problems with parking in this city of fewer than 500,000 inhabitants. The castle which dominates the city acts as a reference point, as does the Danube, which can also be used to get to the capitals of the neighbouring countries. The motorways are in good condition but certain sections are missing and traffic jams are frequent. If you want to use them, you have to buy a permit in the service stations. Reckon on 5 euros for a week; the fines are very harsh.”

If you’ve got more time, you can extend your journey to take in the North and the Tartas mountains. “Liptov is the loveliest region”, according to Mario Annaert. You can ski there in winter, walk there in summer, and the price of accommodation is very good compared to resorts in France, Switzerland or Italy. “I’ve got a Belgian friend who opened a hotel there, in the village of Malatiny, near the town of Liptovsky Mikulas, the Relax Hôtel Sojka (www.sojka.eu ).”

A three star hotel offering peace and quiet,

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the warmth of wooden chalets and a new spa for recharging your batteries.

WINE ROUTE Little known, “quality at a good price”, you can discover Slovakian wines along the wine road starting from Bratislava. “You start in the villages of Pezinok then Modra, stopping for a visit to Cerveny Kamen (the Red Stone Castle). It’s bit more complicated to communicate outside of the capital, where they don’t speak either English or German.”

These white, red or sparkling nectars can also be enjoyed around good tables in Bratislava. “My favourite is the Hôtel Matysak (near the Presidential Palace) (www.hotelmatysak.sk). The owner is a wine grower. He has an enormous cellar and a very high quality Slovakian restaurant. The value for money makes it worth a detour.”

SLOVAKIAN FOOD What local food shouldn’t you miss? “Lots of meat and vegetables. A typical dish, bryndzové halusky, consists of a sort of gnocchi made with potatoes, water, flour and sheep’s cheese, with grilled bacon pieces.

Two soups are popular: drzkova with tripe and the Christmas kapustnica with cabbage and smoked sausage. Not forgetting the fruit brandies (Slivovica: made from plums), whether official or not. Sold in shops (40-45°) or distilled at home (55-65°). You can get a bottle out at any time of the day!”

Another address to remember, the Slovenska Koliba restaurant, on the esplanade opposite the National Theatre (Hviezdoslavovo Namestie). “They serve excellent quality Slovak meals. Expect to pay about 30 euros per person, plus 15 euros for a good bottle of wine.”

On the same square, Le Monde offers

sophisticated French cuisine. And 50 metres from there, a really nice Irish pub, The Dubliner, livens up in the evening. Also a block away from this square (Panska road), De Zwan (the swan) is an old Belgian café where they drink draught beers, eat mussels and chips, carbonade and steaks. A rallying point for ex-pats. Bratislava is obviously a bit more expensive than the rest of the country, but in the little restaurants you can get away with 10 to 15 euros inclusive. For lunch, I would recommend Prasna Basta (www.prasnabasta.sk, Zámočnícka 11), which is housed in a tower and frequented by locals.”

For somewhere to stay, “the luxury hotels, namely the Danube, the Devin and the Carlton, are on the edge of the river. A more democratic alternative is to stay at the Marina (www.botelmarina.sk), which is on a boat.”

FOLKLORE Folk music and dancing play a central role in traditional Slovakian culture. “You find several famous groups in Bratislava (Sluk), made up of students from the university, of virtually professional standard. A group from Liege, Li’Tchena, is very highly thought of in Slovakia and has an impressive collection of costumes. A folk festival is held in July in Vychodna, 300 km from the capital.” Note also, The summer of culture (Kulturne Leto) in Bratislava, namely 200 open-air concerts (www.bkis.sk).

INFO www.slovakia.travel FLIES TO BRATISLAVA ON TUESDAY, THURSDAY & SATURDAY

37#WALLONIA

charleroi

RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTOS BY CICI OLSSON

THE “BOIS DU CAZIER” Industrial tourism has become increasingly popular in recent years, particularly in Europe. In France, no fewer than 1,400 heritage museums or industrial sites draw in 20 million visitors every year. Every sector is represented, including industry, mines, and even spectacular infrastructures like the Millau viaduct, the highest road bridge in the world, which was officially opened in December 2004.# The Borinage region is part of the European coal deposit that stretches from Wales to the Germany. For more than a century, coal mines fuelled the industrial revolution that turned Belgium into an industrial giant. The first traces of coal extraction can be found in the 13th century but coal mining in this area peaked at the beginning of the last century.

After the Second World War, numerous Italian immigrant workers settled in and around Charleroi to work in mines, hoping for a better life. The Bois du Cazier, one of the most spectacular coal mines to visit, lies just south of Charleroi. This place is forever engraved on the Belgian national memory because in 1956 a fire killed 262 workers, mostly of Italian origin.

This site, with its rich and poignant history, has been completely rehabilitated thanks to the European Union and the Walloon region.

The Museum, dedicated to coal, steel and glass, is divided into different sites. The most moving is the 8th August area, a centre devoted to the tragedy, safety at work, and migration. On the upper floor, films, photographs, testimonies and technical explanations tell the story, hour by hour and day by day, of the disaster and the rescue operations. On the ground floor, a place of remembrance pays homage to the 262 victims of the accident.

The Bois du Cazier does not only focus on the past and the tragedy; in the middle of the Walloon chain of slagheaps, a wooded domain of 25 hectares, laid out as seminatural parks, makes it possible to explore a specific biotope. Footpaths accessible to the public have been laid out through the three slagheaps, allowing people to relax and discover a surprisingly rural aspect of the past of the “Pays Noir”.

38#WALLONIA

THE BOIS DU CASIER IS MANAGED BY BELGIAN HISTORIAN JEAN-LOUIS DELAET Can you summarize the rebirth of the Bois du Casier? “After its closure in 1967, the site of the Bois du Casier was neglected and vandalized. In the early 80’s, voices were being raised across Europe, calling for respect for cultural heritage industry.

This heritage was an identity and a part of the culture of many people. People began to say, “This is my story, I love it, I am proud and I want us to respect it.” There was suffering, but also pride in this place. This movement caught the attention of the authorities.

Budgets have been proposed to safeguard this place of memory, and then to direct it towards tourism. The Museum of Glass and the Museum of Industry have been moved here to make various aspects of our industrial history coexist within the same space. Completely renovated, the site was inaugurated on the 50th anniversary of the tragedy.”

The museum is presented as a place of memory. “Yes. One of our priorities is honouring the memory of the dead workers. In this regard, we are holding courses and workshops to make young people aware of issues going beyond the accident itself. Behind this tragedy – where more than a dozen nationalities were found, alongside a Flemish minority – lies the issue of migration. Why do people leave their own countries? This is a tourism of memory, but also a tourism of awakening.

Sixty years ago, it was the Greeks, Italians and Spaniards who had to leave their countries. Today, migrants come from elsewhere.

Who are these new migrants? What are they looking for? Another aspect of our work is focusing on industrial accidents. What happens in our factories today? The Ghislenghien disaster that occurred a few years ago shows that occupational accidents are unfortunately still a reality.”

Who is your audience? “It is becoming more diversified. In the early years, there were many visitors who were directly or indirectly affected by the tragedy and the general history of the miners, their sons, and the descendants of Italian immigration. There is also an audience of elderly people who witnessed that era. The workshop that we hold in schools brings in many young people.

We’re also starting to become known in France and Holland, where this form of tourism is booming; our site is gradually becoming a step on the road to Bruges and Ghent. We have also turned the surrounding slagheaps into places for family walks for the locals and people interested in the flora and fauna they come across. Discovery walks are held with “guides”. Despite some sad and tragic memories, people from here are proud of this place – proud of what they have been building and proud of the changes they have achieved.” # THE “BOIS DU CAZIER” | 6001 Marcinelle Tel. 071 88 08 56 | www.leboisducazier.be | info@leboisducazier.be | Closed on Mondays.

Adults: 6 € | Under 18s and students 4.5 € | Admission free for the under 6s. The site has a café, a gastronomic restaurant and a picnic area.

CONTACT CHARLEROI REGION TOURIST OFFIC 20, Place Charles II 6000 Charleroi Tel. +32 71 86 14 14 www.paysdecharleroi.be maison.tourisme@charleroi.be

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

in charleroi GUIDED WALKS CHATEAU AND ARBORETUM OF MONCEAU-SUR-SAMBRE A rare chance to visit the interior of the Monceau Chateau. This stately home dating from the 17th and 18th centuries owes its noble credentials to the visit of Louis XIV. The arboretum, in the grounds of the Chateau, is an ecological circuit showing the remarkable essence of our regions. Meet on Saturdays 11 July and 29 August at 2.30 pm | Visit led by a tourist guide and a nature guide | Wednesdays at 2 pm and Sundays at 10 am, a nature guide accompanies you on a visit to the arboretum.

40#WALLONIA

GUIDED WALKS GOING UP THE SLAG HEAPS The habitats provided by these historical summits, from the driest to the wettest, attract unique flora and fauna.

The slag heaps also offer exceptional viewpoints over the town and the fifty or so summits scattered around it.

TRADITIONAL MARCHES THE ENTRE-SAMBRE-ETMEUSE REGION The Entre-Sambre-etMeuse region is famous for its numerous religious, secular and military marches. Every year, from May to October, military escorts are recreated in most villages, with marchers in period costume accompanying the procession to the sound of fifes and drums, following a route laid down by tradition.

THE MADELEINE TOUR The famous Madeleine Tour, one of the strangest folk traditions in the Sambre, takes place on the Sunday nearest to 22 July. It stands out from other processions because of the extraordinary variety of uniforms worn by the 2000 or so soldiers on parade. It is specially famous for its Sunday parade, a 25 km route, the open-air mass and the presentation of medals to the marchers.

Meet: Sunday 19 July at 2 pm on the Les Hiercheuses slag heap in Marcinelle | Sunday 2 August at 10 am at the Martinet slag heaps in Roux | Sunday 9 August at 10 am at the Bayemont and Saint-Charles slag heaps in Marchienne | Sunday 6 September at 10 am at the Trou Barbeau slag heap in Monceau | Sunday 26 July and Saturday 29 August, from 9 am, all-day rambles on the Marcinelle slag heaps | Saturday 12 September, from 9 am, a day on four of the most typical slap heaps in the area.

SOLVAY SETTLING TANKS An extraordinary landscape to discover over the course of a day. Sunday 23 August, from 10 am, with a barbecue on site.

EXHIBITION “BULLES JAZZ BLUES” The cartoon writers of Wallonia and Brussels are like jazz: inventive, curious, passionate, attracting derision and with a strong taste for parties or the night and its ghosts. A reflection of society, the cartoon has latched on to jazz. Telling the lives of its great soloists or Dinant’s most famous inhabitant, Sax himself, it has combined swing and blues at all times of the day and night. Here, the story is purely biographical and transforms a famous trumpeter into a cartoon hero, a role model … there is jazz and its universe which are the very subject of the cartoon… Then again, it’s music from New Orleans, New York or the cellars of SaintGermain-des-Prés which depict an atmosphere and a look. Made up of some sixty frames, 4 panels and a stand, this magnificent exhibition will take place in the departure terminal at Brussels South Charleroi Airport to the delight of numerous tourists and cartoon lovers.

“Bulles Jazz Blues” from 1 July to 19 August

43#PLACES TO BE

Strolls around LA ROCHELLE

In addition to the majestic 14th and 15th century towers dominating the port, the seaside town of La Rochelle has delightful sculpted stone facades and fine arcaded streets with lively markets. Every summer, this stronghold on the Atlantic Coast sways to the rhythms of the La Rochelle Francofolies festival, and both the town itself and the nearby islands of Ré and Oléron have delightful hotels with restaurants not to be missed. Explore these addresses with a man of taste, Emmanuel Batiot, the owner of L’assiette on the Ile d’Oléron. # LA ROCHELLE CAVE À VIN | OWNED by Jean Marie Floirat, former advisor to the famous gastronomic restaurant La Tour d’Argent in Paris, on the marketplace. 2, Bis Rue Thiers | 17000 La Rochelle +33 (0)5 49 41 09 07 | For lovers of fine wines WINEBAR | LA GUIGNETTE | 8, Rue Saint Nicolas | 17000 La Rochelle | Renowned for its atmosphere and its happy hours LES FRANCOFOLIES A mad atmosphere is created when around a hundred singers and musicians from France, Belgium, Africa, Canada and the West Indies entertain nonstop by the famous medieval towers | 10th to 15th July 2009 | 6, Rue de la Désirée | BP 53018 | 17030 La Rochelle Cedex1 +33 (0)5 46 28 28 28 | www.francofolies.fr THINGS TO DO The (very pleasant) market in the history centre every Wednesday and Saturday | The local council provides free bike hire at the historic port against presentation of an identity card.

NEAR LA ROCHELLE ILE DE RÉ La Rochelle and Ré are connected by a 3.3 km bridge. This rather smart island is known for its cycle tracks.

CHARMING HOTEL | LA MAISON DOUCE |25, Rue Mérindot | 17410 St Martin de Ré | www.maisondouce.fr

ILE D’OLÉRON The island is connected to the mainland by a 3 km bridge. 40 minutes from La Rochelle by road or 30 minutes by sea.

RESTAURANT | L’ASSIETTE 17, Rue Lafayette | 17480 Le Château d’Oléron | www.lassiettecompagnie.com | Fresh produce daily with menu based on market availability and the latest fishing catch. Grilled fish, salads…

CHARMING HOTEL | LES JARDINS D’ALIÉNOR | Le Château d’Oléron | www.lesjardinsdalienor.com | Delightful hotel and restaurant. Gastronomic restaurant and delightful rooms.

FLIES TO LA ROCHELLE ON MONDAY & FRIDAY

44#TRAVELLING WITH

Manchester

NICOLAS BOGAERTS

NON-STOP

FUN Manchester, the principal city in the North West of England, has gone from being an industrial jewel to a factory of fantasy and colour.

For more than two decades, between the end of the 70s and the end of the last century, the city shed an intriguing light on the destiny of avant-garde music: punk rock, pop, house and electronic music. # Wandering around the streets of Manchester is to be confronted with the various eras which have pained or enlivened this city since the end of the industrial revolution: the second world war and its bombings, the industrial crisis of the 70s, the IRA bombing right in the heart of the city’s commercial district, Market Street, in 1996. These have left deep scars in the city’s urban landscape, which alternates today between flamboyant Victorian buildings, towers of glass, steel and concrete, and imposing industrial buildings, factories and depots.

THE CENTRE AND THE NORTHERN QUARTER For shopping lovers, Manchester has a plethora of options to choose from: a shopping centre to suit all pockets, vintage and second-hand boutiques, local creative artists, designer labels. From Market Street, in the city centre district, you can access several

shopping centres. Set out over three floors, the giant Arndale centre is an Americanstyle giant, whilst you can sniff out some bargains at Primpark, (Calvin Klein, Boss, Burberry, Hillfiger, all at knock-down prices…) Topping off the triangle formed around the city centre, John Lewis and Harvey Nichols offer the epitome of “posh”: Paul Smith, Armani, Balenciaga… Don’t look for the prices, they’re not marked.

Manchester’s Northern Quarter is brimming with vintage stores, second-hand shops and the shops of creative artists. This area, with its double backbone made up of Tib Street and Oldham Street, is one of the city’s nerve centres, lively both by day and by night. A local institution, Affleck's Palace (44 Church Street) offers four floors of alternative boutiques, a Babylon of kitsch, vintage and originality. A few metres further on you’ll find Rags & Bitches (60 Tib Street), unmissable when it comes to second hand. Those who

46#TRAVELLING WITH can’t stand the Fred Perry look of Liam Gallagher (Oasis), should go to Oi Polloi (70, Tib Street) or opt for the more original creations of White Label Clothing (53, Church Street).

For a light snack or simply a drink, Odd (30-32 Thomas Street) and its strange eclectic mix, offers a decor where you float somewhere between Morocco, Wonderland and rockabilly. More sensible but not to be missed at any cost, the Soup Kitchen (3133 Spear Street) dishes up original and succulent soups, served at large, communal tables, where people look at laptop screens or at the historical covers of The Face magazine. Having got some energy back, you’ll be well-placed to go and stock up on disks, vinyl and t-shirts in the three ultimate benchmarks of independent music sellers: Piccadilly Records (53 Oldham St), Vinyl Exchange (18 Oldham St) and Sifters Records (177 Fog Lane).

FROM SALFORD TO THE GAY DISTRICT, ALL THROUGH THE NIGHT From Piccadilly Gardens, the number 33 bus crosses the city and its canals and climbs up towards Salford, from where you can admire a poignant view of the roofs of the Dirty Old Town sung about by Ewan McColl.

A short walk to the Salford Lads Club, immortalised on a photo from the Smiths’ ultimate album, The Queen is Dead, will put you straight back into the legend of one of the most influential groups of the 80s.

Going back down towards the centre of Manchester, you will be passing through a musical patchwork: the districts marked by Deansgate to the west and Wilworth to the south, contain high spots such as the Boardwalk (the former rehearsal room of Joy Division, Happy Mondays and the Charlatans), all that remains of which today is a commemorative plaque; the old Hacienda (now a luxury apartment complex); the stunning Hilton hotel, housed in the breathtaking tower from where the regional station Granada TV used to broadcast, where Tony

Wilson played host to the Sex Pistols and the avant-garde of the punk and new wave movements. To the doors of China Town and the gay district, which comes alive in the last hours of the day, you are looking at a city constantly reinventing itself, between current geniuses and past splendours.

In the middle of this hectic tour, we need to take a step back in time: to Mr Thomas’s Chop House (52, Cross Street), an authentic, old Victorian pub packed with a colourful crowd of thirty somethings, students and business men, where they serve traditional English food from a time when fat wasn’t something banned from the menu. Succulent Fish and Chips, finger-licking Pork Vindaloo.

It’s time to make the most of the last rays of sunlight, on one of the terraces which border the canal in the heart of the gay district (Canal Street), before plunging into the darkness. We could have a fine time living in the night sung Ian Curtis (Joy Division).

Manchester has made this adage its own.

It’s impossible here to name all the pubs which attracted our attention, or the clubs which have taken over from the Hacienda.

The Northern Quarter, Withworth, Oxford Road and gay districts are bursting with possibilities. To get warm, the Dry Bar (28-30 Oldham Street) or A Place Called Common (39-41 Edge Street) will do the job, whilst the Mint Lounge (46 Oldham Street) carries on the tradition of Good music good vibes and great social.

On Oxford Road, lose yourself in the sophisticated atmosphere of the Attic (50 New Wakefield Street) and the vibrating groove of the Music Box (65 Oxford Road) where a certain Mr Scruff still rules.

Welcome to Manchester, the city that reinvents itself.

FLIES TO MANCHESTER ON MONDAY, THURSDAY, FRIDAY & SATURDAY

48#CITY BREAK

PRAGUE

A CULT

CITY

Prague has surprises in store, hidden away behind the tourist city everyone thinks they know. Far from the usual sites, the dissident heart of the city is tucked away in its alleyways. #

BY MISHKA TIGHIL PHOTOS BY RENAUD CALLEBAUT

Museum Kampa

Galerie Langhans

Hotel Josef Dancing house alias Ginger and Fred

Grand Café Orient

Café Louvre

51#CITY BREAK

It was Klaus, a young German painter living in Prague, who gave the keys to the city at a chance encounter over a beer. “Be careful!

Prague isn’t what it seems. It’s worth looking further. It has a lot to offer to the discerning traveller - but to find it, you have to go behind the scenes and look beyond the stereotype. This city is still a European cultural crossroads. That’s normal – it’s the capital of a country which, not so long ago, chose a playwright to be its president. Can you think of many others? That’s really something!”

elsewhere”. In the manner of Hasek’s novel “The Good Soldier Svejk”, a seminal apologia for disobedience, the key to understanding the city is indisputably “resistance” political resistance, as developed during the Soviet period, or economic resistance, which is now forcing people to query the era of mass consumption they have seamlessly moved into. During any period of domination, the people of Prague always fall back on a safe value - culture. This is the cement of the city.

It’s true that at first sight one could be mistaken. There are two misconceptions to be avoided. First of all, Prague’s chocolate-box prettiness seems to be engraved in stone.

Its photogenic nature has made it a favourite location setting for Hollywood vampire films.

And the guided tour runs the gamut of classical statues, baroque domes, church spires, and gothic buildings. It would be a pity to stop short there, for the city on the Vltava has a present just as interesting as its past. The other misinterpretation would consist of only taking contemporary contributions into account, between the Zlaty Andel shopping centre by Jean Nouvel and the famous Dancing House, alias Ginger & Fred, by Frank O. Gehry and Vlado Milunic buildings that can be seen as signs of a Czech republic in the throes of globalisation.

HOT CAFÉS Ideally, a tour of the teashops should start with the Grand Café Orient. A tangible sign of its close proximity to culture, the building housing this establishment is also home to the Museum of Cubism. The entire décor of this venue, a favourite with the people of Prague, is by the Rondo-Cubist architect, Joseph Gocar. The quirky decorative lines of this teashop are an architectural expression of the daring of the Cubist painters.

Next on the list should be the Louvre café.

Once frequented by Franz Kafka and Albert Einstein, this has been the ideal place for browsing the newspapers since 1902. Its very Art Nouveau decor gives it a light good taste matched by its delicious café viennois.

Here again, culture is not far away, for this is home to the Café Galerie, a space dedicated to contemporary art, where trendy young people come for wifi. But the absolute must is without a doubt the legendary

To paraphrase the great Czech writer Kundera, one could say that “The true Prague is

52#CITY BREAK

Villa Muller Café Slavia

Café Slavia. Its wood-panelled walls and imposing marble make this the favourite haunt of students from the FAMU film school, as well as performers from the National Theatre. Dominated by “The Absinthe Drinker”, a painting depicting the effect of the green fairy on a doomed artist, the Slavia has unbeatable views of the Vltava, to be enjoyed over a cup of hot chocolate.

More “underground”, literary cafés go right to the heart of the mystery. Try the Café Rybka, the Velryba, or the Rebezova, and you’ll find an unbeatable atmosphere. These tiny venues are lined with books of every kind, from Franz Kafka to life-style guides, via Heidegger. You will be drawn into their friendly atmosphere – the limited number of seats may mean sharing a small table with a total stranger. #

Villa Muller

Grand Café Orient | Ovocny 19, 1 | Tel. 224 224 240 | www.grandcafeorient.cz Café Louvre | Narodni 22, 1 | Tel. 224 930 949 | www.cafelouvre.cz Café Slavia | Smetanovo Nabrezi 2, 1 | Tel. 224 218 493 | www.cafeslavia.cz Lucerna | Vodickova 36, 1 | Tel. 224 217 108.

FLIES TO PRAGUE DAILY

54#wine

MADE IN ITALY

RENÉ SÉPUL PHOTOS BY CICI OLSSON

CASTELLO DI AMA IN CHIANTI The rebirth of one of the best Chianti producers, Castello di Ama, located in the commune of Gaiole in Chianti, started in 1972 as a result of the love of wine of four families from Rome. They bought what was at the time a ruin, invested in a new winery and hired Marco Pallanti, a young winemaker who was one of the few who believed in the potential of Chianti wines.

He devoted his life to this vineyard where he found love, marrying Lorenza Sebasti, a daughter of one of the families who had bought the property. Twenty years later, the couple had made wine the mainstay of the local economy. Marco is said to have replaced every vine and planted the surrounding hills with grape varieties that have yielded fantastic results, crafting a number of outstanding Chianti Classicos including one of the first ever to earn 95 points on the Wine Spectator’s 100 Point scale. In 2003, Marco was crowned “Oenologist of the Year” by Vini d’Italia, published by Gambero Rosso and Slow Food.

In 1999, the husband-and-wife team started the Castello di Ama for Contemporary Art project. Lorenza points out the link between art and wine: “We want our wine to tell this story, now and in the future, to anyone who has ears to hear, as accurately as any work of art. Art is our means of fertilising our local soil to keep it beautiful and culturally rich.” Every year they commission an artist to come to the borgo and create a work which, once finished, will remain on the wine estate for ever. The piece must integrate with the history, the landscape and the architecture of the villa and the wine cellar, blending the modern and historic. The first artist to accept their invitation was Michelangelo Pistoletto.

Since then, Daniel Buren, Giulio Paolini, Kendell Geers, Anish Kapoor, Chen Zhen, and Carlos Garaicoa have made their mark on the magnificent property.

ALLEGRINI IN VALPOLICELLA The Valpolicella area is in the Veneto Region, to the north west of the city of Verona.

The area has been closely linked with winegrowing and wine since ancient times, as is confirmed by the etymology of its name, “val polis cellae”, which means “the valley of many wine cellars”.

The Allegrini Estate has been located in Fumane di Valpolicella since the 16th century. Giovanni Allegrini, the head of the latest generation, is seen as the ultimate expert in the oenological history of this region. He has made an essential contribution to promoting the idea of the “cru”, a vineyard dedicated to the production of grapes for a particular wine, because of its importance and special characteristics.

“Crus” worthy of mention are La Grola and Palazzo della Torre, now ambassadors of the Allegrini touch all over the world.

The company is now run by Marilisa and Franco, who are developing the winegrowing heritage in an original and innovative manner.

The properties of the Allegrini family include some 70 hectares, which are divided among the townships of Fumane, Sant'Ambrogio and San Pietro In Cariano, and are all situated on the slopes of the Valpolicella Classica area, a joy to drive through.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION CASTELLO DI AMA. GAIOLE IN CHIANTI | www.castellodiama.com | Tel. +39 (0)57 7746031 | Visit by appointment only | The Castello Di Ama is less than 2 hours from Pisa airport by car.

GRICOLA ALLEGRINI. FUMANE DI VALPOLICELLA | www.allegrini.it | Tel. +39 (0)45 6832011 | By appointment | The vinyard is less than 2 hours from Bergamo airport by car IN BELGIUM | you can find and order their wines from Licata Vini in Hasselt on | www.licatavini.com

FLIES TO ITALY

56#trends The padlock as the symbol of eternal love. At Dodo, you can believe it with this pendent and chain in silver and rose gold. 340 euros.

Info: 00800 14 03 20 02.

Rimowa suitcase, from the Salsa Deluxe collection. Indestructible polycarbonate shell and movable internal divider to protect clothes against creasing, even when the case is half empty.

Multiwheel model. 74.5 x 49.5 x 27.5 cm. 459 euros.

Info: www.rimowa.com

NOMADS Blu Mediterraneo Experience Set from Acqua di Parma.

Arancia di Capri, Fico d’Amalfi and Mirto di Panarea: 30 ml of each of these sophisticated fragrances evocative of Italy, contained in a sleek, smart box.

An invitation to travel. 64 euros. Info: +32 (0)2 642 26 27.

Super Aqua Masque from Guerlain. Easy to carry around in their individual sachets, these six face masks provide as many active moisturisers and regenerative ingredients as 30 ml of the serum from the same range. 100.97 euros.

Until 31 December 2009, Maison Delvaux is offering the Leathers & Letters collection, comprising items for writing: from the leather notebook cover (A6, A5 and A4) to the pocket or office note pad - round or D-shaped - to the little writing box, the square sketchbook, envelopes and leather pencil cases. From 11 to 22 euros for the pads and notebooks, from 50 to 220 euros for leather items. Info: +32 (0)2 738 00 40.

Prada metal sunglasses (Ref. SPS501 1BC-3M1), double bridge with classic drop-shaped lenses and etched decoration on the bridge and arms.

Arms made of nylon in opaque colours, shades of blue, brown and khaki. 186 euros.

Travel in style this summer with the Damier Graphite Roadster bag from Louis Vuitton. 900 euros.

Info: www.louisvuitton.com or +32 (0)2 289 28 28.

Silk cotton scarf in Mer du Nord orange.

80 euros.

Info: +32 (0)2 743 01 43.

Refined case, graphic and structured dial, for a smart and sleek man’s watch. Hugo Boss Black, model HB-244. 449 euros.

Info: +32 (0)2 357 11 11.

Hydrating, anti-shine after shave, Allure Homme Edition Blanche, from Chanel. Daily skin-care for men’s skin: light, fresh and non-greasy. Prevents shine and makes skin look radiant. 43.73 euros for 100 ml.

58#travel hype

COMPACT SLR AND VIDEO

MADE TO MEASURE The Philips Arcitec combines an even, 360° pivoting shave with triple track heads, to give you a supersoft shave. From de 179.99 euros.

NEW PHOTO PHONE The Viewty Smart (LGGC900) from LG Electronics is the second, improved version of this photo phone which enables you not only to record video, listen to music and share images, but also to take quality photos thanks to its Intelligent Shot automatic setting mode and 8 megapixel camera, capable of taking pictures at up to 1600 ISO, all with a high-resolution, WVGA touch-screen. Recommended retail price: 499 euros.

The new Canon EOS 500D camera, a 15.1 megapixel digital SLR, offers full HD (High Definition) video capability built in to a light, compact SLR. For taking shots when the light is virtually non-existent, it has a wide sensitivity range going as high as 3200 ISO. Recommended retail price of 18-55 mm kit: 999 euros.

BLUETOOTH SPEAKER The MS500 outdoor wireless speaker from Sony Ericsson enables you to share the music you’ve downloaded onto your mobile phone with everyone. Small, light and portable, with a strap and clip-on hook. Bluetooth™ technology enables the phone to be used as a remote control for going from one track to another, adjusting the volume, etc. Recommended retail price: 49 euros.

HIGH TECH UNDERWATER MUSIC This underwater MP3 player from Speedo (capacity: 250 files) means that you don’t have to lose the beat whilst swimming, surfing, snorkelling, in the bath or under the shower! Floats and is waterproof to a depth of 3 m. Guaranteed 1 year. Recommended retail price: 99 euros. Info: +32 (0)14 67 22 20.

61#hotspot

BUCAREST BERGERAC

LONG LIVE MUSIC!

LOCAL PRODUCE

If you’re a cheese-lover, you’ll enjoy Périgord’s oldest cheese in this genuine French abbey, the Trappe d’Echourgnac. Nestling in the heart of the Forêt de la Double, the abbey, which is still home to nuns, has a shop selling all the produce made by the Sisters - cheeses, jams, and fruit jellies.

Typically French. Abbaye Notre Dame de Bonne Espérance | Fromagerie de la Trappe | Biscaye | 24410 Echourgnac | +33 (0)5 53 80 82 50 | www.abbaye-echourgnac.org

The 19th biennial “George Enescu International Festival and Competition” is being held in Bucarest from 30th August to 26th September. The best international orchestras and ensembles will be directed by the greatest conductors. Opening concert on 30th August at 19.00 with George Enescu’s Oedipus, performed by the orchestra and choir of the Bucarest National Opera, under the direction of French conductor Nicolas Joël. Bucarest National Opera | 70-72 Mihail Kogalniceanu Boulevard | sect. 5 | Bucarest | +40 21 314 69 80

BRASSERIE

A COMPLETE REST

The 17th century La Chartreuse du Bignac is surrounded by 12 hectares of parkland with centuries-old box-trees, copses, orchard and lawns. The perfect place for enjoying a quiet rest while enjoying the region in between lazing in the pool. And of course, on the culinary side, the speciality is duck. La Chartreuse du Bignac | Le Bignac | 24520 Saint-Nexans | +33 (05) 53 22 12 80 www.abignac.com

The Carul Cu Bere (which translates as “beer wagon”) is one of Bucarest’s most famous brasseries. Dating back to 1879, this is one of the few neogothic buildings in Bucarest, impressive for its murals, its waxed woodwork, its windows, and its high ceilings. Around 1900, this was the meeting place of the literary circles of the city. This is a relaxed, cosmopolitan venue, where you can stop for a simple meal or just have a beer. Carul Cu Bere | 5, Stavropoleos Strada | +40 21 313 75 60 | www.carucubere.ro

62#hotspot

BRUGES

THIS REALLY IS A MUSEUM!

WINE AND MUSIC

Bar à Vins | 7, Braambergstraat | 8000 Bruges | +32 (0)50 33 38 39 | www.wijnbarest.be

A new museum opened in Brussels at the beginning of June – the Musée Magritte.

The 2500 m2 of exhibition space spread over the 5 floors of this building on the Place Royale are entirely dedicated to the work of this great Belgian painter (18981967), covering every period of his life.

More than 200 works have been brought together here. Musée Magritte | Place Royale

BEAUFORT

1000 Brussels (entrance at 3, Rue de la Régence) | +32 (0)2 508 32 11 | www.musee-magritte-museum.be

This wine bar has more than 90 wines. From Pommerol classics to fresh Chablis via New World crus from Chile, South Africa, California - they can all be bought by the glass. And every Sunday evening, from 20.00 to 22.30, there’s the cherry on the cake – a free blues or jazz concert! Yeah! Est

YOUNG BELGIAN PAINTERS AWARD

From Bruges, pop across to the Belgian coast, only 15 km away, where you’ll find a whole phenomenon, unique of its kind, the Beaufort Festival, which spreads to take in the whole coast from the French border to the edge of the Netherlands. Works by known or emerging contemporary artists are displayed like buoys on the beaches, the dykes, in the sand dunes, or inland. A museum more than 60 kilometres long … to be visited with sand between your toes!

Beaufort 03 | www.beaufort03.be

7 young artists have been selected for the Young Belgian Painters Award; they are Nico Dockx, Jeroen Hollander, Robert Kot (notre photo), Lara Mennes, Caroline Pekle, Els Vermang / LAb[au] and Léon Vranken. Their main concerns are social and urban, relating to memories of places and people through archive, taking in landscapes, and touching on the fragility of things. Until 13/09 | Palais de Beaux-Arts de Bruxelles | 23, Rue Ravenstein | +32 (0)2 507 82 00 | www.bozar.be

© MRBAB – Musée Magritte Museum

BRUSSELS

CASABLANCA

FLY TO CASABLANCA

NOT TO BE MISSED DELICACIES

Standing, pharaonic, by the sea, Casablanca’s Hassan II Mosque, with its 200 metre minaret and its 20,000m2 space is well worth a visit. It was built between 1980 and 1989 and officially opened in 1993, and it took 10,000 craftsmen to make the Murano glass chandeliers and chiselled plasterwork walls, to work the marble, the granite, the onyx, the cedarwood, the stucco and the ceramic inlay…

And the cost of all this? Around 500,000 Euros. Hassan II Mosque | on the Corniche | Casablanca | www.mosqueehassan2.com

At the heart of Casablanca’s Habous district, the new medina, Pâtisserie Bennis has been keeping the Moroccan culinary tradition alive since the 1930s. Gazelle or sesame horns, coconut or almond-based cakes, stuffed dates, honey cakes…

Gourmets and the curious will be spoilt for choice in this Ali Baba’s Cave, equally appreciated for its antique décor. Pâtisserie Bennis Habous | 2, Rue Fkih El Gabbas | Quartier Habous | +212 22 30 30 25 | www.bennishabous.com

DEMOCRATIC

SOPHISTICATED

A patio in front of an ancient Moroccan villa full of charm. People come to the Al-Mounia Restaurant as much for its luxurious setting as for the sophistication and flavours of the local cuisine. Lamb or chicken tajines, kebabs, coucous, pastille, kefta … And all these dishes can be enjoyed with a wide choice of cru wines. Al-Mounia | 95, Rue du Prince-Moulay-Abdellah | +212 22 22 26 69

The Hotel Suisse, on the famous Corniche boulevard overlooking the ocean, has modestly-priced accommodation in a quiet location close to the centre. Modern comfort, excellent service and, last but not least, a patio that’s a haven of peace, tucked away in the heart of the tall building.

Hôtel Suisse | 1, Boulevard de la Corniche | +212 22 39 60 62/3

64#hotspot

FARO

SCIENCE FOR EVERYONE

© Turismo de Portugal

CHARMING POUSADA

GLASGOW

The Palácio de Estoi is a magnificent Pousada, commissioned at the end of the 19th century by the Vicomte de Estoi, José Francisco da Silva, but only officially opened in May 1909. In 1987, Faro Council bought the palace and refurbished the main building as well as the tea pavilion and the Versaillesstyle gardens. Today the Pousada is a hotel with spacious rooms and an excellent restaurant serving local fish and seafood dishes.

Pousada Palácio de Estoi | Rua São José, Estoi | 8005-465 Faro | +351 289 990 150 | recepcao.palacioestoi@pousadas.pt

DANCING ON THE BEACH

With its feet in the water, facing Faro beach, the Sui Generis is a new “three in one” concept of restaurant, café, and disco-bar.

Eat Mediterranean cuisine, subtly garnished with world flavours. Once the desert course is finished, the tables are removed, and the restaurant becomes a dance floor. Real holidays! Sui Generis | 6, Avenida Nascente | Praia de Faro | 8005-520 Faro | +351 289 818 996 | sui_generis@netcabo.pt

You can’t go to Glasgow without visiting the Glasgow Science Centre. Current and future health, science and technology issues are dealt with here, in an entertaining, attractive manner, with interactive exhibitions, planetarium, IMAX screen and more, to entertain adults and children alike.

Glasgow Science Centre | 50, Pacific Quay | Glasgow G51 1EA | 0871 540 1000 | www.glasgowsciencecentre.org

FINE FOOD

Last year, the Ubiquitous Chip, tucked away down a side street in Glasgow’s dynamic, cosmopolitan West End, was awarded the title of Best City Restaurant in Scotland. Produce is carefully selected to prepare an original and traditional take on Scottish cuisine. The wine list is said to be one of Great Britain’s top ten in terms of value for money. And the plant-filled courtyard, with its glazed ceiling and mezzanine, makes this a delightful setting.

The Ubiquitous Chip Restaurant | 12, Ashton Lane | Glasgow | 0141 334 5007 | www.ubiquitouschip.co.uk

RIGA COSY

SANTANDER A PALACE

At the heart of the old city, the Vecriga Hotel (the name, literally translated, means Old Riga), is in a 15th century building which has been rebuilt several times (the last time was in 1768). This delightful hotel has 14 cosy rooms with a romantic atmosphere. And in good weather, you can relax in peace and quiet in the inner courtyard. Boutique Hotel Vecriga | Gleznotaju 12/14 | Riga | +371 6 721 65 24, +371 6 721 60 37 | www.vecriga.lv

NIGHT FEVER

This hotel, which was opened in 1917, was built at the behest of Spanish aristocrats wanting to spend their summer holidays in Santander. It has everything you could want from a luxury hotel: magnificent views over the Santander bay, hydrotherapy, seawater pool, suites, very spacious rooms. Ideal if you feel like being pampered. This is one of the prestigious “Leading Hotels of the World”. Hotel Real (5*) | 28 Pérez Galdós | Santander | +34 942 272 550

A TASTE BUD EXPERIENCE Riga is full of lively places for a drink or to dance until dawn at the weekend. Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta (its name, translated literally, means “No One writes to the Colonel”, a reference to the Gabriel Garcia Marquez novel) is a huge, trendy pub-club with subdued lighting, a circular bar, and the atmosphere of an abandoned industrial warehouse.

Eclectic music, from punk to acid jazz.

Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta | 26/28 Peldu | Riga +371 6 721 38 86 | www.pulkvedis.lv

The La Sal restaurant, a temple to innovation and haute cuisine, has it all: a well-lit dining room where the food served combines the new gastronomy with local produce. The young chef, Fausto Alonso Ramirez, has turned this home of traditional food into an inventive culinary experience. Dishes are still based on fish and seasonal produce.

Gourmets will also appreciate the wine cellar, with more than 400 Spanish and international wines. La Sal | 5, Castelar | Santander | +34 942 214 646

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SOFIA

WELCOME TO THE CLUB!

Right in the heart of Sofia, on the corner of Boulevard Tsar Osvoboditel and Avenue Rakovski – the road with the theatres – the Central Military Club is a real cultural nerve centre in Sofia. An old dance hall, frequented in the past by the city’s aristocracy, this Renaissance style building has retained all its class. Nowadays, the Club is an in place with café, art gallery, and concert hall.

TANGIER HANGING TERRACES

Built in 1929, the Café Hafa is famous for its terraces clinging to the cliff and its unbeatable views of the Spanish coastline. A haven of peace with a marine backdrop, a haunt of both locals and tourists. And quite a few musicians, actors and writers have come to chill out here, including the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Sean Connery, Paul Bowles, Jean Genet, and William Burroughs. Café

Central Military Club | 7, Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard | Sofia | +359 (2) 988 17 46

Hafa | Avenue Hadi Mohammed Tazi | Tangier

FLOWER POWER

MOORISH

The Hotel Les Fleurs, at the heart of the business, shopping and historic centre, is the most fashionable hotel in Sofia. There’s nothing cold about its design – it could be described as plant-based, if not luxuriant, with wood playing a great part, as the flower theme is handled differently in each area and in each non-smoking bedroom.

An unusual setting for modern service and comfort. Hotel Les Fleurs | 21 Vitosha Blvd |

Built round an Andalusian courtyard in 1930, the Spanish/Moorish style of Tangier’s best 5-star hotel stands out at the meeting point of two worlds, the old and new towns. It overlooks the bay, the beach, the port, the old town and, in the background, Cap Malabata with the Spanish coastline. Restaurants, bars, pleasant terrace, a swimming pool in a luxuriant garden, a fitness centre and a huge spa (2000 m2) for recharging one’s batteries. Hôtel El

Sofia |+359 (2) 8 100 800 | www.lesfleurshotel.com

Minzah | 85, Rue de la Liberté | Tangier | www.elminzah.com

67#podcast

GUIDES The big travel guides have had to fall into line with the Internet. Some offer high-quality audio or video podcasts. www.lonelyplanet.tv/ www.roughguides.com/website/travel/Downloads/Podcasts/Default.aspx www.nationalgeographic.com/ podcasts/index.html

TRAVEL DIARIES Journalists, professional globetrotters or travel enthusiasts produce their own mini-reports. A personal approach based on exchanging and sharing experiences. www.blogtrotters.fr/ www.cheminsdumonde.net | amateurtraveler.com/

UNMISSABLE IN MUSIC Three young men cross-cross Eastern Europe, Turkey and Africa looking for anonymous musicians. They send sound clips from the artists or groups they meet along the way. www.terre-de-notes.com

travelin10.libsyn.com/ Mediterranean shores or Northern or Eastern Europe: each destination is the subject of a simple and complete mini-report lasting 10 minutes. www.hostelworld.com/podcasts/index.php Discover the best-kept secrets of Rome, Venice or Marrakech, to name but a few of the destinations. www.ricksteves.com/radio/podcast.htm The site of the great reporter from the US public television channel PBS. A reference.

TRAVEL BY

PODCAST In the space of a few minutes, podcasts, the audio or video clips made by professionals or just keen amateurs, transport you to a world waiting to be discovered. A sketch. #

NICOLAS BOGAERTS