FLUID
EDITORS LETTER This practical project looked to explore to what extent gender neutral photography influenced our social perceptions of non binary identity. It was evident within both the theoretical and practical aspects of the project, that fashion photography has a great deal to do with impacting views on societal topics, which in turn creates new norms. The rising topic of gender is bubbling up through online communities and the increase in exposure within the fashion industry is positively impacting contemporary gender representations today. This project was influenced by creatives who highlight the gender topic through their practice, reinforcing the aesthetic for the final series of photographs produced. I was keen to portray an authentic aesthetic through the choice of my muse Michael Savage. He represents one of a growing number of people who believe gender labels are constraining us, and he dresses fluidly to express this. This zine highlights the portrayal of Michael Savage’s aesthetic through photography in a creative and innovative manner. It is suggested within my essay that this in turn influences the social perceptions of non binary identity in a positive way.
by Georgia Roberts
gender neutral [adjective]: gender classification where one individual does not feel/belong to neither genders
Secondary research: david bowie
0113-S3N UR NUD3 ROMILY ALICE: THE ARTIST SHOWING CONTEMPORARY REPRESENTATIONS OF GENDER AND IDENTITY Leeds based artist Romily Alice explores feminism, sex, gender, and the post-internet age. She does this by accepting anonymous naked photographs from willing participants, and creates neon lighting crafted by herself, into the varied body shapes. As explored within the theoretical aspect to this project, Romily Alice seeks to positively promote body image and gender representation. An interview with Romily Alice was conducted via email by Georgia Roberts as primary research for this project about Alice’s work and views.
What are your personal views on non-binary identity? I think it’s important that as a culture there is a movement toward a more fluid understanding of gender. Gender stereotypes can be incredibly limiting and the overarching understanding of gender in our mainstream culture does revolve around a gender binary. I believe in freedom of expression so I accept and salute anyone who identifies with any kind of gender or no gender at all. How do you represent gender within your artwork?
D3S photograph from romilyalice.com I try to play with gender in my work. Some of my pieces aim to represent a non-specific gender to ask an audience to question their own thinking around the gender binary. As a feminist artist I tend to try to make work that increases the visibility of women so as a result of that a lot of my work looks at the female form and attempts to create a wider representation of that. That being said I’m very aware of the exclusivity that can come from making work that depicts the typical able bodied cis-gender women so I am working towards being more inclusive in my artwork. How do you think gender norms have changed, particularly within the past few years? I think that the internet has created a space where marginalised groups can express themselves. This includes spaces for feminist, trans, POC and non-binary people. With that has come wider visibility for these issues. Adding to that the policy changes and mainstream discussions around gender neutral toilets and LGBTQ issues have helped to bring gender issues into a mainstream forum. Whilst these discussions highlight
how far we have to go in creating a normalised understanding of these issues, I think visibility and discussion are the first steps toward change. I also think that as a general rule the younger generation of digital natives have a much more fluid understanding of gender and sexuality. I read a recent study about the percentage of under 30s who don’t identify as 100% heterosexual and the numbers were hugely different to those over 30. Do you think your artwork represents these changes in gender norms? If so, how and why? I think the fact that I am able to make artwork that depicts naked forms and gender fluid identities and that I can do that and be embraced by galleries, online communities etc. says a lot about the changes in the cultural climate. I’m not sure that my interest in gender fluidity has fully been expressed in my work but it’s an issue that I’m passionate about so I’m sure it’ll develop within my work with time. In what ways does artwork have the capacity to change people’s views on non binary identity? I think artwork has the capacity to start conversations and challenge an audience to question their own understanding of gender and identity. I think sometimes its power can be in the ability to lure people in with the visual and then challenge them with the conceptual. Sometimes this can be more effective than an article which necessitates a desire by a person to confront these issues. How would you define gender neutral? My personal understanding of gender neutral is a desire to operate on a level playing field that emphasises the intrinsic common ground of humanity as opposed to gender stereotypes. I think fashion can play an important role in the breaking down of gender identities by encouraging freedom of expression and diversity in the way that we choose to present ourselves to the world. I think it can be a very accessible way for an individual to claim their identity. View Romily Alice’s work at romilyalice.com
“Aestheticising social issues is an effective way of reinforcing audiences passivity and dulling the seriousness of events; beauty, as Ingrid Sischy remarks, ‘is a call to admiration, not action’ (Sischy in Levi-Strauss 2003: 5)” Shinkle, E (2008). Fashion As Photograph.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GEORGIA ROBERTS
MICHAEL SAVAGE In order to portray an authentic representation of contemporary views on gender, a real muse would need to photographed. Michael Savage was chosen as the final muse for the project exploring gender neutral photography’s influence on social perceptions of non binary identity. Development was conducted over four photoshoots with Savage, in which the aesthetics within the image were explored in order to portray a gender neutral look. An interview was conducted with Michael Savage in order to assess his views on what he considers his gender to be. What are your personal views on non binary identity?
pair of white frilly socks - they are marketed towards girls, but I just said ‘they’re my socks’. I’m fortunate to be comfortable in my own mentality and my skin. I wish that - not the world - but there was an environment to facilitate self comfort instead of a market making money, when the market is within a certain gender I get that, it should be more open. I’d love to see pink glittery socks in Topman, so I wouldn’t have to go to Topshop. How do you think gender norms in fashion have changed, particularly within the past few years?
It is within itself becoming a market, unisex is a great thing, I’m not that knowledgeable of fashion. Im well I don’t know to be honest, never crossed my mind peraware it’s becoming more mainstream to not have that sonally, in childhood my bedroom was barbie themed, divide. Outside of the industry, more prominently, you got stigmatised at school, I was always best friends with notice more men wearing women’s clothing instead of girls, in terms of gender representation it’s never been vice versa, more unexpected. a struggle really, I do believe that gender is a construct. Doesn’t cross my mind, don’t care too much about how Do you think your style represents these changes I’m acting or what I’m wearing. Not a struggle for me in gender norms? compared to other people. I dress how I like to, if I can stand in front of a mirror How do you represent gender within your personal and think “damn, I look good” then that’s it. style? Do you think any of your friends or peers are recI don’t know, that’s for someone else to pick up, I wear ognising any changes in gender norms regarding what I wear, I don’t know. I know that if I put on a pair fashion/clothing? of hoops someone might give me a look but it won’t stop me from wearing what I want to wear. I’ll quite I know I’ve heard more comments coming my way, happily browse around mens and womens sections. someone picked up clothes in a shop saying I would My dad came up to see me and I was wearing a pair like it but then was like “nahhhh that’s not feminine of white frilly socks - they are marketed towards girls, enough”. Not a lot of people are comfortable in their
“I dress how I like to, if I can stand in front of a mirror and think “damn, I look good” then that’s it.”
PARTY GIRL
own skin. In what ways does clothing have the capacity to change people’s views on non binary identity? It’s got a pretty big role to play if I’m honest, we are in a visual culture, like it or not we are, images we are fed are responsible for changes. The more prominent the movement becomes, I definitely feel like, there’s no bullshitting, you get more of a sense of a person from how they dress. Now it’s become more popular, it’s a pretty big role to play, not in changing people’s views but shredding the old views. It’s not just the clothing, its perceptions of masculinity and femininity as a whole construct. Can fashion photography achieve the same outcome in changing people’s views on non binary identity? If so, how and why? It’s the market that feeds into the clothing essentially, and again if that begins to permeate more into mainstream culture. Probably equal to the clothing because too little people are autonomous in their gender identity, fashion photography has as big a role to play as garments. Who are your main inspirations regarding your personal aesthetic and how does this inform your style? No, and no if I’m honest. How would you define gender neutral? And what is your opinion regarding gender neutral fashion? I understand gender neutral has to be used as a term, I wish it wouldn’t have to exist, if you have to label it as gender neutral then you have to notice there is a binary, ideally it will get to a point where it’s not male or female, and it’ll just be clothes like ‘I like that suit or dress’. We’ll get there eventually. I think I’d like to reiterate that I wouldn’t like people to use labels for people to show who they are, stick to your instincts in clothing, style or demeanour. Yeah, stick to that and just be proud of losing your inhibitions when it comes to it.
“we are in a visual culture, like it or not we are, images we are fed are responsible for changes.”
I’m fortunate to be comfortable in my own mentality and my skin. I wish that There was an environment to facilitate self comfort instead of a market making money, when the market is within a certain gender I get that, it should be more open.
GEORGIA ROBERTS CONTEXT OF PRACTICE 3 LEEDS COLLEGE OF ART