food & lifestyle magazine
On the Wild Side
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Cooking with venison
wild & spicy
recipes
Fabulous France
Flavours of the Auvergne
hot & wild 5 ways to spice up your life Classic spice blends
WIN:
Sherry?
BUSTING MYTHS WITH SPANISH STYLE
WINE, DINE & STAY IN LUXURY JUNE/JULY 2016 www.ginjafood.com
FOOD On the Wild Side Cooking with venison 14 Black Gold Black truffles find their way to SA soil 34 Ducking Fantastic Taking a trip to Chinaka Food Farm 38 Wild & Spicy in Africa Lungi shares some African inspired curries and their perfect wine pairings 72 Life Is Short So Give It a Shot Turn up the heat for these Amarula desserts 88
DRINKS Heritage Farming The story behind Springfield wines 26 Carpe Vinum Cabernet Sauvignon 30 Sherry? There is more to a glass of Sherry according to Conrad Louw 46 Winter Warmers Allan Mullins’ suggests the perfect companion on a chilly night 78
TRAVEL A Route in Full Bloom Taking a meander through Riversdale and surrounds 20 Robustly Rustic Flavours of the Auvergne 58
JUNIOR Happy Campers Sweet treats for round the campfire 94
Chef’s Note 08
bon appétit
REGULARS
On the Cover Roast Honey and Pomegranate Duck 10 Contributors 11 Dear Editor 12 Chef’s Pick Pak Choi 52 What’s in season 66 Back to Basics 5 ways to spice up your life 68 Book Review (food) Taste the Little Karoo 82 Book Review (wine) My Kind of Wine 100
Health Matters Hot & Wild remedies for winter 102 Ask a Chef Rudi Liebenberg from the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel 104
Ginja Cheat Sheet Curry and sambal pairings 108
Suss out SASSI Understanding sustainable seafood 110 Out & About 112
Dine-out Guide Hot & Wild restaurants around SA 114 Recipe Index 116
The Last Word Darren Maule gets “Hot & Wild”… fully clothed! 118
chef's note
We are so excited to share with you our very first, entirely digital, edition of GINJA, with none other than our 3rd BIRTHDAY edition! As you know, Denise and I are firm believers in supporting everything local, and what better way to showcase a few of our unique flavours than in this edition. Heat things up with the kitchen with a few African inspired curries, cooked by our very talented Lungi Nhlanhla, and paired perfectly with wines. Stock up on some of the Winter Warmers suggested by Allan Mullins, or try out a few Sherries that are mentioned in Conrad Louw’s article. This edition's Carpe Vinum Wine Class is all about the king of grapes, cabernet sauvignon. Winters are also the perfect excuse to light up the gas stove or braai, so turn to the GINJA Junior section to get tips for your Happy Campers. And of course, the adults will be well looked after with a few outdoor friendly Amarula desserts. Take a step out of your comfort zone and take a walk on the Wild side with us. We chat to local duck farmers, Elardus and Michelle Behrens, at Chinaka Food Farms, which inspired our Roast Honey & Pomegranate Duck on the cover of this edition. After I did a review on “Taste the Little Karoo” by Beate Joubert, I couldn’t stop myself from sharing some of my favourite Venison recipes. Winter months are generally filled searching for all the great comforts, so prepare yourself for a Hot & Wild one! Finally, we would lke to pay tribute to Dr Billy Gallagher, renowned chef and icon to the industry, passed away recently. His passing will be mourned by all who knew him. Happy Cooking and keep warm
- Denise & François
on the cover
®
GINJA CHEF - François FERREIRA francois@ginjamedia.com MANAGING DIRECTOR - DENISE LINDLEY denise@ginjamedia.com EDITOR - SHERILEE MAASS sherilee@ginjamedia.com HEAD DESIGNER - KATE SCOTT design@ginjamedia.com JUNIOR DESIGNER - KERRYN DRIEMEYER kerryn@ginjamedia.com GINJA JUNIOR CHEF - JULIETTE MUDALY juliette@ginjamedia.com MARKETING & SOCIAL MEDIA - MAGGI VAN RHYN maggi@ginjamedia.com SALES - sales@ginjamedia.com
Roast Honey &
Pomegranate Duck See recipe on page 44
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ginjaFood
ginjaFood
ginjaFood
ginjaFood
CONTACT US +27 (0)31 563 0054 | P O Box 20111, Durban North, 4016 WWW.GINJAFOOD.COM GINJA RECIPES TRIED AND TESTED ON ELBA STOVES
Born and raised in Africa, Caroline Frei and her husband Anton relocated from Mozambique to a beautiful old farmhouse in Chez Saby, Puy de Dome, Auvergne. As a keen foodie and “Jack of all Trades” Caroline is opening her BnB in the near future to share her love of the country and food.
our contributors
Rudi Liebenberg has been the Executive Chef at the Belmond Mount Nelson since 2009. He demands the best quality from the very best ingredients and is passionate about what goes into his food, both ingredients and design. His style of food is a combination of local and international flavours and trends.
Conrad Louw became interested in wine when he was elected Chairman of his office's wine club, and borne out of the need to answer their questions, he joined the Cape Wine Academy. As he always says - he ended up becoming a Cape Wine Master purely due to a hobby gone wrong!
Martin Meinert discovered wine in the late 70s. Seduced by its charms and glamour he studied winemaking at Stellenbosch University and went on to work in SA, the USA and France before grabbing the opportunity to make the first wines at Vergelegen. Meinert Wines’ story began in 1987 in Devon Valley.
Also contributing to our ginja edition: MARIO BOTHA, DARREN MAULE, LUNGI NHLANHLA and kelvin saunders
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dear editor LET TERS FROM OUR READERS
Write to us: press@ginjamedia.com PO Box 20111, Durban North, 4016
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Dear Editor, A huge thank you for the most amazing food mag on the planet. The recipes are awesome and easy to follow, and the food looks like a work of art. I love your magazine and look forward to every issue. The reason I don’t subscribe is, with the postal service the way it is, I found you never got your stuff. So I’d rather pop in to Woolies and buy it there... Far more exciting to get it straight away. I recently made the Greek Cheesecake and it came out perfectly... my family and friends loved it. Keep bringing more and more exciting recipes and ideas. You rock... keep it up. Have a wonderful day. Diana Brett
Dear Editor, Yesterday while browsing through the magazines before supermarket check-out I noticed your unusual shaped magazine. I flipped through and quickly decided to add it to my basket (Feb/Mar 2016). I haven’t finished reading it yet, but have glanced at a few recipes and am looking forward to reading the rest and trying out some recipes at home on the family. One thing I really love is the wine pairing. At a dinner party you can’t lose with a well paired wine. Keep it up! Another reason why I bought Ginja was the Baked Apple Roses recipe. I found the same recipe online a few months back and tried it – they looked great however were not cooked properly. I had hoped
your recipe may add some insight into getting the whole rose baked evenly. The apples were starting to burn so I took the roses out the oven, but when we ate them the inner pastry was raw because it was so thick. Do you have any advice to avoid this next time? (see pic above of my baked apple roses). If possible, please can you add sugar free baking recipes to your magazine. I am supposedly allergic to sugar and struggle to find decent sugar free recipes to bake – recipes with artificial sugar sweeteners don’t count as the stuff makes me ill, it’s worse than actual sugar. Possibly use a small amount of honey, maple sugar or fruit to sweeten the baked good? I feel with the health drive everyone is on these
days it would be a good addition to your magazine.Looking forward to the next issue! VICTORIA PILCHER OUR GINJA CHEF RESPONDS Hi Victoria, I hope you’re well! Thank you for your interest in Ginja, I’m so glad you like the magazine. My suggestion when baking the Apple roses; - Ensure the pastry is rolled out to about ¼ cm in thickness. - You can also heat up the muffin and the oven tray just before you add them in, this will help when baking. - If for some reason they are not cooked through the way you like it, turn the heat down and use only the bottom
heat element, this will ensure the top does not burn and it cooks evenly. I used these tricks when I made mine and it came out beautifully. Regarding the sugar free desserts, I will keep that in mind for our future editions as it is a great idea! I hope you have a wonderful day and we look forward to hearing from you again! Happy baking!! CHEF JULIETTE MUDALY
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Words, recipes and styling by Lungi Nhlanhla Photography by GINJA
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On the wild side-cooking with venison Gone are the days when venison was cooked to death, smothered in vinegar or red wine and spices. Venison is very healthy as it has very little or no fat at all, and does not need to be cooked to death – steaks should not be done more than medium. I find it hard to understand why South Africans do not eat more of this excellent source of meat. The recipes that follow are for those of you who want to try venison but are still on the wary
side. Once you have experienced the taste, you will want more!
Venison Fillet
Simmered in Sweet Wine Serves 6 Easy Time: 30 mins
Ingredients 1 whole fillet of venison Salt and freshly ground black
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“ I find it hard to understand why
South Africans do not eat more of this excellent source of meat. pepper 250 g butter 375 ml natural sweet wine
8. Slice the meat and serve with reduced pan juices.
1. Trim meat of any excess
Note: The fillet should be medium at the ends and medium-rare in the middle. For this recipe, Bonnievale Natural Sweet Shiraz was used.
sinew. 2. Dry the meat well and salt and pepper generously all over. 3. Melt butter in a large heavy pan. 4. When butter has stopped foaming, add the fillet and sear it on all sides. 5. Add the wine, lower the heat, cover and simmer for 10 minutes. 6. Remove the meat from the pan and let rest until 10 minutes before serving. 7. While the meat is resting, reduce the pan juices.
Venison Braised in
Beer and Chocolate Serves 4 Easy Time: 40 mins
Ingredients 1 kg aged sirloin of venison, cut into strips as for stroganoff 30 ml butter Salt and black pepper to taste 250 ml light beer 125 ml sliced onions 15 ml tomato paste 50 g dark chocolate, grated
1. SautĂŠ the meat in the butter and add the salt and pepper to taste. 2. Set the meat aside. 3. Preheat the oven to 180ÂşC. 4. Mix the beer, onions, tomato paste and chocolate together in a bowl. 5. Place meat in buttered casserole and pour the beer mixture over it. 6. Cover and braise in the preheated oven for 30 minutes. 7. Remove cover and continue braising for another 10 to 15 minutes to thicken the gravy. 8. Serve with sweetpotato mash or rice and vegetables.
Venison Meat balls
with a Difference Serves 4 Easy Time: 25 minutes
Ingredients 1 small onion, chopped 15 ml parsley, chopped 30 ml pesto 2 tomatoes, skins removed and chopped 30 ml butter 250 ml beef stock 1 kg venison mince 2 eggs 30 ml flour Breadcrumbs Oil for frying
1. Prepare gravy by sautĂŠing the onion, parsley, pesto and tomatoes in butter, then add the stock and simmer. 2. Strain the gravy and season to taste.
3. Mix meat and eggs with 30 ml of the gravy and adjust the seasoning. 4. Add the flour and shape into balls, about the size of an egg. 5. Roll in breadcrumbs, and then fry in hot oil until delicately browned. 6. Place the meatballs on absorbent paper to drain excess fat. 7. Return to the gravy and simmer. 8. Serve with pasta or stir-fried vegetables.
Venison Terrine Serves 8 Little effort Time: Overnight + 2 hrs
Ingredients 450 g streaky bacon 340 g minced pork 225 g sausage meat 450 g chicken, sheep or venison liver 4 cloves garlic 2 eggs 60 ml brandy 75 ml cream 10 ml salt 5 ml black pepper 15 ml mixed herbs
1. Line a large terrine dish with the bacon (rind removed). Reserve enough rashers to cover the top. 2. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 3. Place all the minced meats in a large bowl with any bacon that is left over, finely chopped. 4. Put the livers, garlic, eggs, brandy, cream, salt, pepper and mixed herbs in a blender and liquidise until smooth. 5. Mix well into the minced meats. 6. Turn into the lined terrine dish and cover the top with the reserved bacon. 7. Cover the terrine dish with the lid or foil and place in a roasting tin.
food 8. Add enough boiling water to come about half-way up the outside of the terrine dish. 9. Top up with boiling water as necessary during cooking. 10. Cook in preheated oven for about 2 hours. When cool, weight terrine down overnight. 11. Turn out and remove any excess fat. 12. Serve sliced, with toast.
A ROUTE in full bloom 20
food DIE OU TRONK
Exploring Riversdale,the Floral Paradise of the Garden Route, and its surroundings. Words by Denise Lindley Images supplied
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“ Inverroche use local rare indigenous fynbos and flora that are similar to the traditional botanicals in the
production of their gin.
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A very interesting stop in town is Die Ou Tronk, or The Old Jail. This attraction is one of the oldest buildings in town, originally being built in 1838 as a trading store. In 1860, the Government bought the building, and turned it into a jail, which also became the police station, courtroom, and as if there wasn’t enough going on in the place, the warden also moved in and lived there! The jail was eventually closed in 1979, and has eventually become a coffee shop and the place where the local farmers market is held on a Saturday. If you are looking to sleep over, then the extremely comfortable De Doornkraal Country House Boutique Hotel is highly recommended. Built in about 1746, the rooms are beautifully restored, and with a great restaurant serving their own single vineyard wines made on their estate, Aan’t Vette, what more could you want?
Riversdale, Baleia Wines have their winery and tasting room at the side of the road, and you should allow some time to stop here to taste some of their wines, and chat to the very friendly general manager and winemaker Abraham de Klerk. Abraham started out as assistant winemaker at Spice Route (Charles Back’s winery in Malmesbury), and went on from there to carve out an amazing career in wine. He worked for The Company of Wine People, Neil Ellis Wines, L’Avenir, Druk-My-Niet, and still found time to do harvests in France, Germany, Italy and Austria. But his biggest challenge came in 2013, when he was offered a job to make wine in Ethiopia, working for a company whose chairman is Bob Geldof! This was extremely
food
Driving from Cape Town on the N2 towards Port Elizabeth, Riversdale is a good half way stopover to refresh the soul, as there are many noteworthy places in the area that are worthwhile visiting.
Talking of wine, as you leave
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challenging but rewarding for him, and you wonder what can possibly top that experience. Well, Baleia Wines came his way, and the rest is history! So you see, you just have to stop and try his wines. Next door to Baleia is La Bella Deli and Restaurant, which is also a compulsory stop! Offering gourmet sandwiches, breakfasts, pizzas, pastas and to die for individual carrot cake muffins, it is difficult to choose what to eat. However, La Bella does say that “life’s too short, eat dessert first”, something that I can easily endorse!
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Not far from Riversdale is Still Bay, a lovely seaside town which is worth a detour, and where every sort of water related activity can be enjoyed. En route into Stlll Bay
is Inverroche Distillery, where a 7 Year Old Cape Pot Still Rum and 3 different types of gin are distilled. Magnanimous Meg is used for the distilling, and she is a 1000lt copper pot still especially made for Inverroche. Here they use local rare indigenous fynbos and flora that are similar to the traditional botanicals that are used in the production of their gin. Do yourself a favour, and book for a gin tasting, and I guarantee that you will leave with at least a bottle of rum and 3 bottles of gin! Continuing along the N2 towards Port Elizabeth is a small town called Albertinia, which has a huge Aloe Ferox or Cape Aloe industry, producing a large range of wellness and skincare products which have amazing properties. If you are looking for a place to rest your weary head, then just past Albertinia is the Garden Route Game Lodge, which provides luxurious rooms, game drives and is home to a large variety of birds and the Big 5. After stopping for a gin tasting at Inverroche and a wine tasting at Baleia, it may be wise to sleep over, and continue the adventure the next day.
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garden route game lodge
refresh the soul, as there are many noteworthy places in the area that are worthwhile visiting.
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HERITAGE
farming 26
Words by Jenna Bruwer
At the end of the 17th century, during the height of the religious wars in France, a vast number of Huguenots fled the motherland as a result of the increasing persecution of Louis XIV and the recently issued Edict of Fontainebleau, which abolished all forms of legal Protestantism in France. With the choice of either converting to Catholicism or risk persecution, around 500 000 French Protestants decided to leave behind France and all that they knew, in search of new horizons by the beginning of the 18th century. The bulk of Huguenot émigrés found new homes in Protestant European nations such as England and Belgium, where a handful ventured further to faraway continents such as North America and Africa. Of the thousands of exiles, only 250 souls made their way to the Cape of Storms. One of these men was Estienne Bruére, a farmer from Blois in the Loire Valley, who arrived on the shores of Cape Town in 1688 at the tender age of 23 with little but a bundle of vines under his arm.
fertile lands of the Breede River Valley, and by the 19th century, his sons and their children called the town of Robertson home.
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For well over three centuries the Bruére – now Bruwer – family has called Robertson and the Breede River Valley, home. That shows really long term commitment to the success of the family farming operation.
The pioneering spirit of their forefather has always been felt strongly through the generations of Bruwers. The dawn of the 20th century was a momentous time for South Africa, and for the tiny town of Robertson as well, with lots of changes taking place in the little village. Most agriculture was concentrated on the mountain slopes, an area with a higher rainfall than the valley basin.
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Estienne Bruére arrived on the shores of Cape Town in 1688 at the tender age of 23 with little but a bundle of vines under his arm.
While many of the Huguenots settled in what is now known as Franschhoek, Estienne Bruére and his descendants came to the
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At the time, the Breede River dried up every summer, making farming in the valley reliant on its water for flood irrigation, very difficult. With the Cape now a British Colony, and export opportunities beckoning on the horizon, our forefathers decided to change their fates. Together with a group of like-minded farmers in the area, they undertook the huge operation of building a dam further up river, in order to supply the valley with water all year round. Knowing they would have a steady water supply in the near future, these famers bought up the land on the banks of the Breede River. J.S Bruwer was one of these pioneers, and bought the farm Klipdrif (now known as Springfield) for his two sons in 1902. In 1908, the Brandvlei Dam was completed by the industrious farmers, using their own resources, and with the help of a regular water source, viticulture boomed in the area. Born with a can do attitude, the Bruwer family has always improvised and made a plan where one was needed. Nothing is more evident than the cellar techniques used by the family in the 1940's. Before the days of sophisticated cellar machinery, hydraulic pumps and crushers, the grapes in the cellar were crushed by the ingenious use of a Fairbanks-Morse engine nailed
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to a couple of blue gum poles, which straddled the open fermenters. As it was wartime and fuel was rationed, the engines had to be run using paraffin – which was a disaster waiting to happen. It has been told that the engine would splutter and vibrate so violently from drinking its ill brew of paraffin, that it would regularly break free from its blue gum pole mounts, and take a dip into the mashed grapes. As the years went by, a passion for quality and great winemaking was cultured in the family, and Fairbanks-Morse engines were no longer a key ingredient in the wine made on the farm. Piet Bruwer, father of present day owners Jeanette and Abrie, bought his uncle’s neighbouring farm on auction in 1970, reuniting two thirds of what was the original Klipdrif farm that was first purchased in 1902. Whereas in earlier years, Klipdrif had borne many crops such as peaches, apricots and grapes, together with his children, Piet Bruwer started slowly shifting the farm’s focus solely to winemaking. As much as tradition is paramount to the family, so is progress, and many radical changes have been made since the days of J.S Bruwer and his sons. Over the years, many of the original vineyards on the farm have been replanted, owing to poor soil preparation by previous generations, disease and most significantly, an ever-increasing desire to make the best possible wine
that the family is able to produce. Fifth generation Bruwers, brother and sister Abrie and Jeanette, have replanted most of the vineyards on the farm. Vines were originally planted in a north to south direction, following the lay of the land from mountain to river to facilitate flood irrigation of old. The new vines were planted in an east to west direction, which ensured even ripening. The new vineyards were planted at a higher density – almost double the industry standard - and the cellar modernised using a gravity flow system that was unheard of at the time. Although the Springfield label, as it is now known, was launched in 1995 after the family once again took charge
of their fates, and stopped selling wine to merchants and negotiants. The resulting success is a culminative effort of years of blood, sweat and tears by generations of Bruwer hands. Today the Bruwer family is not governed by wills or share certificates, but by vows instilled in them by their ancestors that they took towards one another. Vows to not carve up their heritage and their legacy, and that what they have will be preserved for the next generation. Vows that are made to remind the family that they are not the owners, but merely the present caretakers of a farm known as Springfield.
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Carpe Vinum Wine Class 4 Words by Denise Lindley
Cabernet 30
SAUVIGNON
A relatively easy grape to grow, cabernet can hold its own under all sorts of conditions, especially frost. In South Africa, where it accounts for 12% of the national vineyards, Stellenbosch is arguably the area that produces the best cabs. (I did say arguably!) Due to its thick skin, it makes the grape very hardy and resistant to insects and viruses. We do produce some amazing cabernets
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Who would have thought that the parents of the king of grapes, cabernet sauvignon, were cabernet franc (a red grape) and sauvignon blanc (a white grape)! Well, this union between the two grapes apparently took place in France around 450 years ago, resulting in the king of grapes being born. Cabernet sauvignon has become the best-known grape in the world, and is found in all wine producing countries around the globe. It is without a doubt the favourite red wine that is drunk universally, rivalled only by merlot, either in a blend or as a straight cabernet, and produces some of the finest and longest lasting wines. It is the major component in a Bordeaux blend, a blend that really has helped make the cabernet grape so popular.
right here at home, so forget the very expensive (and extremely difficult to get hold of), but very good, Opus One from California, and Chateau Mouton Rothschild from France, and try our wonderful local cabernets. Etienne Le Riche and his son Christo, produce a lovely cab at Le Riche Wines, as does Delaire Laurence Graff, Meinert Wines and Guardian Peak, but don’t turn your nose up at the much cheaper cabs, like the Nederburg 56Hundred, Graham Beck The Game Reserve and De Krans. (More about the amazing wines that Nederburg
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is producing in future Carpe Vinum classes). But as I said earlier, cabernet is an easy grape to grow, and will produce full bodied wines that have good aging potential, and so as long as you serve it at the correct temperature (+- 16°-18°) and maybe
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This union between the two grapes apparently took place in France around 450 years ago, resulting in the king of grapes being born.
decanted, you will enjoy our South African cabernets on any occasion. Gorgeous black berries, cassis, cigar box and even chocolate can be found on the palate. One cabernet which deserves a special mention is the amazing Whole Berry Cabernet from Springfield. (See the article on Springfield on pages 26) The berries are simply destemmed, but not crushed, and the wine is not filtered at all. After being aged in new oak barrels, with no strong tannins from the stalks and pips etc., the resulting wine in the bottles is velvety smooth. A lovely wine that I urge you to try. But what to eat with cabernet? Firstly, don’t cook with a wine that you wouldn’t drink. If it doesn’t taste good when drinking it and you are loath to throw it away, but think you could add it to the oxtail stew, don’t! The elements that you don’t like in the wine will add those same flavours to your dish, which will only get stronger when you cook them down. Cook with a wine that you would drink with the dish. Try Cabernet Braised Chuck Short Ribs, Lamb Shank, or a rich Bolognaise Sauce. Even better, make a Thyme Cabernet Gravy and a Spicy Cabernet Mulled Wine. Enjoyment in front of a warm fire is obligatory!
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Black GOLD Words by Mike Allen & Denise Lindley
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food Believe it or not, truffles have been cultivated in South Africa since 2005 by international truffle expert, Dr. Paul Thomas, who was also instrumental in kick-starting the industry here. He wrote the original governmental reports on truffle growing, paving the way to allow farmers to plant truffle trees and designing the first ever South African truffle tree nursery. Leon Potgieter, a farmer, truffle expert and Mycologist (a Mycologist is an expert in the study of fungi), was the first to discover South African truffles in 2009 in the Southern and Western Cape. This turned out to be an incredibly rare and large truffle-like fungus on his farm, growing under very similar conditions to the black Périgord truffle, also known as tuber melanosporum, the black truffle, or French black truffle.
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Since these fungi were discovered,
various other species of truffles, both cultivated and wild, have been found in a variety of exotic trees which include pecan nut and hazel nut trees. These finds help stimulate new technology and protocols in future production practices within the network of production orchards throughout South Africa. Listed as one of the most expensive foods in the world, and referred to as “the diamond of the kitchen”, truffles sell in Europe for prices in the region of €1,000 - €2,000 per kilogram, about R20,000 - R40,000. They are so expensive because just about every truffle that lands up on your plate has to be found underground by a human being, usually with the help of a specially trained truffle-sniffing dog. Before we get all excited and rush off to dig up our gardens in search of truffles, we need to turn to the people who have managed to bring this once exclusive
It can take anywhere from 5 to 10 years, depending on the variety of tree, soil and climate conditions and
amount of effort put into the actual trees growth to achieve production.
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ingredient into our backyard. “Truffle Growers SA” tells us how it has been made possible and the climatic requirements of truffles and their oak tree “parents”. They give us the following parameters: Mainly found in France, Spain and Italy, the black Périgord truffle typically prefers climates with well-defined seasons. Mild winter frosts are beneficial, but prolonged freezing of the ground can impact on the harvest. The ideal average winter temperature range is -1 - 12C˚. The black truffle also prefers cool summers with average temperatures ranging from 15 28C˚. Mediterranean summer temperatures can be tolerated as long as proper irrigation is utilised together with the correct specie of tree suited to the climate other than temperature, humidity and winds, which could have different effects on certain trees. The next item on our agenda is how to ensure that our orchard of oak trees is actually going to produce these pricy fungi? The trees need to be host inoculated in order for this to take place. Now all this is far too technical for GINJA’s foodies who really only want to know, when, where and how much? We get answers to some FAQ’s from Leon. Q: Who were the pioneers of black truffle production in South Africa, what organisation were/are they from, and are they still in the business?
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“ A: The first pioneers were a group of people who initially saw the workings of the European and Australian establishments and decided to invest in bringing my current partner Dr Paul Thomas to South Africa. The group was headed by Volker Miros, from Woodford Truffles and Donna Hornsby from Truffles of Africa in Natal. I was introduced to Dr Paul Thomas during a period when I was trying to expose the fact that I had found some new varieties of truffles in SA. Based on our knowledge as fungi fanatics, our company Truffle Growers SA was born. Q: How long does it take for black truffles to be ready for harvesting in South Africa, and what are the main factors that affect this? A: It can take anywhere from 5 to 10 years, depending on the variety of tree, soil and climate conditions and amount of effort put into the actual trees growth to achieve production. Q: In your experience, what has interest been like in South Africa towards the establishing of commercial black truffle orchards, and what is driving this interest, if any? A: Usually it would be farm land owners that wish to retire in a few years, or young adults wanting to get involved in an ecofriendly farm business and not wanting to get involved in the usual highly intensive
cattle or crop farming. Interest varies from investment opportunity to people really wanting to try something new and unorthodox to make money. Q: When do you expect South Africa to become a bona fide commercial black truffle producing country for the benefit of local, and possibly, international consumers? A: We are still a long way off, based on truffle production at the moment. I think it will take another 4-5 years for us to reach over a ton of production. However once all these trees are up and growing, as with anything that is mushrooming, production tends to pick up immensely.
Currently SA truffle production can be seen as a very small tree that is shooting roots all over the environment.
Q: What volumes of black truffles do you think South Africa will eventually be producing? A: Once the current orchards are in full production, around 10 -15 tons can be expected over the next 10 years. Currently SA truffle production can be seen as a very small tree that is shooting roots all over the environment. As this tree grows, more and more seeds will be produced, causing new individual trees to shoot up, which, many years from now, will become a new reality for us in this country. For more information on truffle growing in South Africa visit www.africantruffles.com
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Ducking
fantastic Recipes by Franc¸ois Ferreira and Chinaka Food Farms Photography by Kelvin Saunders
food All natural and nutritious, Chef Franc¸ois makes some feathered friends at Chinaka Food Farms and serves up some ducking delicious dishes. Thirteen years ago, Elardus and Michelle Behrens moved to George after having purchased a smallholding which was basically a bluegum forest. They developed the farm and named it Chinaka, - God decides (in the Nigerian language). When sitting on the farm, looking over the dam, one can see that there was divine intervention in every aspect. After deciding to change their eating habits by following the popular Banting diet, the Behrens found that duck was the perfect meat for their needs, but not easy to find. Elardus, who comes from farming stock, decided to raise their own ducks. “We could only buy 80 ducklings at a time,” says Michelle, “and soon we had deep freezers full of duck. So becoming a producer was a natural progression.” They are opposed to the concept of mass production where one producer has a monopoly over an area or industry segment. They have therefore specifically established their business in such a way as to include various other small producers, who all supply in a cooperative type of mechanism, using one firm to market and distribute,
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“ Easy Duck Breast
We refer to ourselves as personal farmers
– producing what our clients need.
but with various small businesses gaining benefit. “I would like to call us personal farmers as we liaise directly with our clients to supply ducks and poussin to suit their needs,” says Michelle. The ducks cannot be reared in batteries like chickens, and they are allowed to move around freely. They do not take kindly to antibiotics and other chemicals, so the ducks from Chinaka are truly organic. Michelle feels that part of their job is to educate the public on the good nutritional value of duck meat. With this couple’s passion for what they are doing, South Africa will soon have a significantly larger duck-eating public.
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with Brandy & Fig Sauce Serves 4 Little effort Time: 15-20 mins
Ingredients 4 duck breasts Salt and pepper 100 ml chicken or duck stock 100 ml brandy 100 ml fig jam
1. Defrost the breasts and pat dry with kitchen paper. 2. Smooth out each breast fillet and remove excess fat around the edges. 3. Score the skin all over – this will allow the fat layer under the skin to render during cooking. 4. Season the breasts with salt and pepper. 5. Heat a frying pan to low heat without greasing the pan. 6. Place the duck breasts, skin side down, in the frying pan. 7. Slowly cook the breast fillets until they begin to brown. The fat layer under the skin will begin to render and
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“ With this couple’s passion for what they are doing, South Africa will soon have a significantly larger duck-eating public.
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food will be present in the pan as liquid fat. 8. When the duck skin has browned and enough of the fat has been rendered out of the breast - possibly 10 minutes - turn the duck breast fillets over to cook the other side. Note that the duck breast will reduce in length and will swell in thickness during this time. 9. When the breasts are cooked, the juices will run clear. 10. Remove from the pan and let them rest for 5 minutes. 11. Pour some of the fat out of the pan, filter and set aside for further use. 12. Deglaze the pan with the stock, then add the brandy, let it flambĂŠ to impress your guests, add the fig jam and mix well. 13. Warm through, but be careful that the jam does not over-caramelise or burn. 14. Slice each breast fillet, drizzle the sauce over and serve with wilted spinach or steamed vegetables.
Easy Duck Leg
Confit
Serves 4 Little effort Time: 6 hrs
Ingredients 4 duck legs Coarse sea salt and black pepper Fresh thyme 500 g duck fat / chicken fat / lard
1. Defrost duck legs and dry them thoroughly. 2. Mix the salt, black pepper and thyme together. 3. Rub the legs with the mixture, cover and place in the refrigerator for about 2-3 hours. 4. Remove from the fridge and rinse off salt, pepper and thyme and pat dry. 5. Preheat oven to 120ÂşC (low heat). 6. Place the legs in casserole, cover with the melted fat and place in the preheated oven. 7. Cook for about 3-4 hours. 8. Once cooked, transfer the duck legs to a storage jar and cover with the fat. 9. When ready to serve, remove the legs from the fat and heat up in a pan for a few minutes. (Use the storage fat to cook with, or store for the next batch of confit.) Note: If the meat was cured in salt for two days or more before cooking, it will preserve perfectly in the fat outside the fridge or freezer. If not cured for long, it will keep equally well in the fridge for a few months, or freezer for longer.
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Straight from the Quack Duck meat and eggs are hugely underrated in South Africa and a closer look at their benefits and nutritional value prompts a favourable relook at this culinary delight! • More albumen in duck egg makes for a firmer white and so cakes, pastries, omelettes and quiches will therefore be fluffier and richer. Cakes and breads will also rise better. • Duckfat intensifies the natural flavour of food when used to cook with, as many a passionate chef will testify! • Duck fat contains CLA (Conjugated Linoleic Acid) which is great for brain health, weight loss, and heart health, vitamin K2 (artery decalcification, proper calcium absorption), and omega-3’s (reduced inflammation and improved cholesterol balance). It also provides the body with the fat soluable vitamins A, D, E, but more importantly the medium required for them to be absorbed, namely fat! • Duck Breasts are the steak of poultry – incredible easy to prepare with dark, rich flavourful meat and a gorgeous fatty skin which can be crisped to “Banting” friendly perfection !
Roast Honey &
Pomegranate Duck Serves 6 Little effort Time: 90 mins
Ingredients 2 – 2,5 kg duck Salt 2 garlic cloves, crushed 3 spring onions, finely chopped 5 ml freshly grated ginger 45 ml soy sauce 60 ml honey 60 ml pomegranate juice 500 ml boiling water 500 ml water for roasting
1. Wipe the duck with a damp cloth. Rub it lightly inside and out with salt. 2. Preheat the oven to 180ºC. 3. Combine the garlic, spring onions and ginger with the soy sauce. Divide the mixture in half. 4. Mix the honey and pomegranate juice with one half. Apply some of the mixture to the duck using a basting brush. Let it stand for a few minutes to dry. 5. Mix the remainder of the
honey mixture with the boiling water to be used for basting. 6. Pour the other half of the soy mixture into the duck cavity. 7. Place the bird on a rack in a roasting dish and pour water into the roasting pan. 8. Cover the bird with foil and place in the preheated oven and roast covered for 45 minutes. 9. After 45 minutes; remove the foil, roast for another 45 minutes basting with the honey/ pomegranate mixture every 10 minutes. If the pan runs dry, add more water. 10. Serve with couscous flavoured with pomegranate aryls.
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food
SHERRY? Words by Conrad Louw
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There is a big misnomer out there that Sherry is always sweet, and is the favourite afternoon tipple of grannies playing a game of bridge, or the overly-sweet sticky bevvy served to wedding guests in waiting for the bridal couple to return from their photo session. Yet, in Spain, the home of Sherry, it will be the mucho matadors who would, when celebrating their victory, together with other noble cigar smokers, quaff down bottles of various styles of Sherry, usually dry. Shakespeare wrote about it hundreds of years ago (*Falstaf and other writings), and James Bond apparently was a connoisseur when it came to Sherry (*Diamonds are Forever). What then is Sherry, and why the fuss? Well, that is a curvedball question that involves a prolonged response, but we will rather stick to a far more fun and easy riposte that would perhaps entice you to try out the real McCoy. Sherry originated from the small province of Cadiz in the south-western part of Spain, wedged between three towns, Jerez de la Frontera (inland), and the two coastal towns of El Puerto de Santa Maria, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, forming the Sherry Triangle. Unique to this area, are the snow-white Albariza soils, rich in calcium and chalk.
There are numerous styles of Sherry, some of which will be touched on. Essentially, Sherry is a fortified wine, meaning that an additional amount of alcohol, or wine spirits, has been added to it. There are two mainstream styles of Sherry; Fino and Oloroso. Then these wines are uniquely aged in a Solera system.
drinks
“Sherry?” “No thanks, not for me!”
However, let us start at the beginning. Firstly, the winemaker makes quality base-wine from white grapes, much like normal good white wine. In Spain it is made from Palomino grapes, and in South Africa, mostly from the very versatile grape, Chenin Blanc, although some Palomino is also used. The really good wine, usually made from free-run juice, will be destined to become Finos, whereas the more coarse, fuller and richer wine will be used to make Oloroso. Fino: the biological process. The wine is made, then fortified to a specific percentage alcohol of between 15.2 and 15.5%. It is then put into barrels, but filled only to approximately four fifths. This will allow oxygen to be in the upper portion of the barrel. A specific type of yeast is introduced to the wine, which forms a protective layer that floats on top of the wine. This yeast is called flor (flower in Spanish) and thrives on oxygen that is in the upper space of the barrel, as well as from nutrients, glycerine and any residual sugar that might still be in the wine. This refers to the biological process. It protects the wine from any interaction with oxygen, and imparts a unique nutty character
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to the wine. Finos are usually a fine, delicate style of Sherry. Each Fino made in the different towns in the Sherry Triangle taste very different from the others. Those Finos from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the only area with its own unique quality classification, are lean, complex and somewhat salty, due to the high humidity in this coastal town. Fino from Jerez de la Frontera is somewhat richer and more flavoursome, much like the Fino that is made in Paarl. Oloroso: the oxidative process The wine destined to become Olorosostyle Sherries, will start off in barrels, but fortified to a higher percentage of alcohol, which means the flor will never be able to grow on top of the wine. Here the wine will start its long process in the solera system to develop into a very complex wine style.
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Solera System? What’s that? Sherry is aged in a Solera system, the process responsible for the enigma surrounding the wine. This process is quite mind-boggling to most people, but
The main reason why I love Sherry so much, is that each and every style has an array
of food it can pair with.
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essentially, it is a process of fractional blending of the wine, meaning that younger wine is added fractionally to older wine. The younger wine adds freshness to the older wine, whilst the older wines impart rich complexity to the younger wine, resulting in a multifaceted wine. Barrels are literally stacked on top of other barrels in layers of three or more, with the younger wine in the top layers, and older wine at the bottom, from where the wine is drawn for the final stage of bottling. The Sherry that is bottled from a Solera with three layers, results in the average age of the Sherry being approximately seven to eight years’ old. Different styles of Sherry Different styles of Sherry are the result when the natural course of the aging process changes the character of either Fino or Oloroso Sherry. Sherry is almost always dry, except for the sweet styles made from Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel grape varieties. Lesser quality Sherries are usually sweetened with aged grape juice, resulting in the Cream styles, such as Pale Cream, Medium Cream or Full Cream. South African wine laws on Sherrystyle wines are somewhat different to that of Spain, and locally, Oloroso has to be a sweetened version of more than 50 grams of sugar per litre, compared to the quality dry Oloroso Sherries in Jerez with around 5 grams of sugar per litre.
Fino: Pale, straw-coloured Sherry, light bodied, dry, and delicate. Fino Sherries are always matured under flor, in the towns of Jerez de la Frontera and El Puerto de Santa MarĂa. They have 15% to 17% alcohol and are best when served chilled like a dry white wine. It is an ideal accompaniment to shellfish and seafood. Manzanilla: Pale, straw-coloured, delicate, light, tangy, and very dry fino-style
Sherry which has to originate in SanlĂşcar de Barrameda. Manzanilla is thus the driest, almost salty, and most sharp-tasting of all the Sherries. Manzanilla should also be served very cold, and probably the best drink with a plate of freshly shucked oysters. Manzanilla Pasada: This is Manzanilla that has been aged in casks for about seven years, and has started to lose its flor
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is full-bodied with rich, complex flavours of roasted walnuts, prunes, dates, coffee and dried figs. They are served like a full bodied red wine with cuisine fitting in complexity, at 18˚C. Amoroso is sweetened Oloroso.
Amontillado: Amontillado started off like Fino under a layer of flor, but later on it is fortified again to an alcoholic level higher than in which flor can grow, and then it is aged similarly to an Oloroso. It has a deeper amber colour, and is much richer, nuttier and multifaceted than Finos. Amontillados are very complex, multi-layered and elegant in taste, and should be served slightly cool, much like a wooded Chardonnay.
Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel: These styles are extremely sweet, dark brown to black in colour. They are syrup-like, silky and seductive dessert Sherries, with nuances of dates, figs, raisins, liquorice and cocoa. These Sherries are labelled under the name of the grape variety it is made from.
Palo Cortado: This used to be rarest of all Sherries. It starts out as a Fino, under a layer of flor, but then the flor starts dying off naturally, and develops like an Amontillado. In additional to that, for some ‘unknown reason’, it begins to resemble the richer, more fragrant Oloroso style, all the while retaining the elegance of an Amontillado. This used to be reserved exclusively for the Bodega owner and his special guests. Today the ‘unknown reasons’ are simulated and it is more commercially available, at a higher price of course. It should be served between 16 and 18˚C. Oloroso: As mentioned above, Oloroso is aged without the influences of flor, but it is still very dry. It ends up being dark in colour, between amber-gold and brown. It
drinks
character. The colour has changed from the pale straw the Manzanilla had, to more amber in colour. It is fuller-bodied, yet still very dry. It falls in a style between Fino and Amontillado.
There are more styles of Sherry than those mentioned above, but before I attempt to tell you about the En Rama “cult movement”, and East India styles, I will first let you get your head around just those mentioned above. The main reason why I love Sherry so much, is that each and every style has an array of food it can pair with. Especially seafood and sushi, but also meat dishes and casseroles, to any style of cheese and desserts. When talking about Sherry, I always develop a yearning for some Spanish cuisine, so I attempted to make François Ferreira’s Chicken Chilindrón (GINJA April/May 2016 edition) which I enjoyed with Lustau’s Dry Oloroso ‘Don Nuño’ (imported by Wine Cellars in Cape Town). Pure bliss! “Sherry?” “Yes please!! With which one shall we start?”
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PAK Choi Recipes by Juliette Mudaly Photography by GINJA
food Often times I find myself walking through the aisles of a supermarket looking for a spark of inspiration for my meals, and more often than not, I tend to drift towards the “safe” veggies. A sure fire way to get dinner on the table quick and easy. I will admit that although I love the idea of being creative and adventurous in the kitchen, I also know that all too often, I fall into the safe and boring category. In this edition of GINJA we decided to take a look at pak choi, the lesser known cousin of our chubbier friend, cabbage. Pak choi and bok choy are often linked as one and the same as they are from the same plant. This leafy green Chinese cabbage commonly grown in Asian regions, has found its way to western dishes thanks to its sweet and tender stalks.
Growing in a similar fashion to celery, these plants reach between 30 – 45 cm in height, with smooth white stalks and green oval-shaped leaves. This leafy green also tends to tick all the right boxes when it comes to being nutritious and beneficial to your health. As one would expect with vegetables, pak choi is no different. High in fibre, vitamins and minerals, your daily serving has antioxidant properties, whilst assisting with eliminating the bad cholesterol from your blood and increasing your levels of vitamin C, vitamin K, calcium and iron. So wonder no more when walking down the aisles at your nearest store, abandon the safe veggies and join me in a culinary adventure. Now to tackle that inspiration required for your dinner...
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Asian Inspired Stuffed Baguette Served with a
Tangy Carrot Salad
Prep Time: About 10 mins Cooking Time: 5 MINS Refrigeration time: 2 hours or preferably overnight
Ingredients For the baguette 4 bulbs pak choi, roughly chopped 30 ml olive oil 10 ml garlic, crushed 5 ml brown sugar Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 690 g cream cheese, softened 30 g fresh coriander, roughly chopped 3 spring onions, sliced 3-4 red chillies (as desired), finely chopped Zest and juice of 1 lime 1 standard size baguette For the salad 3 carrots, grated 1 medium onion, cleaned and finely diced 10 g coriander, finely chopped 15 ml white wine vinegar 15 ml sugar Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste BAGUETTE 1. SautĂŠ the chopped pak choi in olive oil and garlic. Add sugar, toss and adjust seasoning. Set aside until cooled. Using a food processor, add the cream cheese, fresh
chopped coriander, sliced spring onions, chillies, lime zest and juice and blitz until well-blended. 2. Cut both ends off the baguette and using a long thin knife hollow it out. Leave about a 1 cm thick crust all around. Working from both ends, fill the baguette with the mixture ensuring the filling is packed tightly. Cling wrap and refrigerate for about 2 hours or preferably overnight. SALAD In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients together, cover and refrigerate. When serving, slice the baguette into 1 ½ cm pieces and top with a dollop of salad to add a little acidity. The flavours work extremely well together!
PAk ChoI & Mushroom
Coconut Soup
Serves: 3-4 Prep time: 10-15 MINS Cooking time: 25-30 MINS
Ingredients 30 ml olive oil 1 medium onion, cleaned and diced 15 ml fresh garlic, crushed 15 ml fresh ginger, minced 2 red chillies, finely sliced
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7.5 ml turmeric powder 1 punnet shitake mushrooms, thinly sliced 200 ml coconut milk 600 ml water 2 vegetable stock pots Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 3-4 bulbs Pak Choi, thinly sliced
PAk ChoI Salad
1. Over medium high heat, heat the
For the dressing 100 ml olive oil 45 ml soy sauce 30-45 ml raw honey 15 ml Dijon mustard 60 ml white wine vinegar 80 ml sesame seeds, toasted 3 spring onions, washed and sliced For the salad 6 bulbs pak choi, washed and sliced 2 carrots, washed and julienned 30 ml olive oil 1 package ramen noodles, crumbled Beef seasoning to taste For the roasted maple cashews 100g raw unsalted cashews 45 ml maple syrup 7.5 ml brown sugar Sea salt flakes to taste
oil in a large pan. Add the onions and cook until golden. Add in the garlic, ginger, chillies and turmeric and cook until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Add in the sliced mushrooms and cook for a few minutes. Add 15 ml coconut milk if it starts to stick to the pan. 2. Add the coconut milk, pour in the water and stock cubes and stir until well combined. Lower the heat to medium, cook for about 15 minutes and adjust seasoning. Remove from heat. Stir in the pak choi to lightly wilt. Serve hot or warm.
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with a Sweet Mustard Sesame Dressing Serves: 6 Prep Time: 5 mins Cook Time: 25 mins
Ingredients
This leafy green also tends to tick all the right boxes when it comes to being nutritious and beneficial to your health.
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DRESSING 1. Place the sesame seeds in a dry pan and toast on medium low heat until golden brown. 2. Once the sesame seeds are toasted, place all ingredients into a jar with a tightly fitted lid and shake until well blended. Set aside until later use. Roasted maple cashews
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a baking tray with a silicone mat and set aside until later use. 2. In a large bowl add all the ingredients and mix until wellcombined. Evenly spread out the mixture onto the prepared baking tray and bake in a preheated oven for about 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove, sprinkle with sea salt flakes and leave to cool before adding to the salad. SALAD 1. Over medium high heat, heat 30 ml olive oil in a large sauce pan. Add ramen noodles and toss until toasted. Season to taste. Ensure to toss frequently to prevent burning. Set aside until later use. 2. In a large bowl, toss the sliced pak choi, julienned carrots, toasted ramen noodles and the dressing. Top with roasted maple cashews.
food
robustly rustic
travel
flavours of the Auvergne Words by Caroline Frei
“ Mention “French cuisine” and images of fine-dining in Michelin starred restaurants spring to mind. Indeed, the major cities of Clermont-Ferrand, Vichy and Moulin are home to numerous top class restaurants. However, it is in the Country Inns and Farmhouse Eateries that are found in the small, picturesque villages, where one can eat authentic regional food cooked and served in the true Auvergne style. The traditional fare tends to be simple rustic dishes, hearty, wholesome and full of flavour. A sparsely populated high plateau in the heart of Central France with quaint hamlets and spa towns dotted along the meandering country roads, Auvergne has a wealth of delectable specialities making it a food lovers’ favourite. The region produces excellent beef, lamb and cheese. Allier is famous for its Charolaise cattle raised for their superior quality “melt-in-your-mouth” beef, but pork is the most commonly served meat in Auvergne. The region is renowned for its pork products, and the crisp mountain air is perfect for curing sausages and drying hams. Many of the regions recipes use pork in combination with fresh staples from the garden to create rustic soul food.
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A sparsely populated high plateau in the heart of Central France with
quaint hamlets and spa towns dotted along the meandering
country roads.
Auvergne’s famous dish, ‘Potee Auvergnate’, is a pork joint soaked overnight, then simmered slowly with cabbage, potatoes, leeks, carrots, turnips and fresh herbs, making a sumptuous hotpot type stew. ‘Soupe au Chou’, (cabbage soup) is typical farmhouse fare, quick and easy to prepare with cabbage, potato, lard or smoky bacon. Simply delicious. Tiny green ‘Puy Lentils’ cultivated on the volcanic soil in the area of Le Puy en Velay, are organically grown; packed with goodness, they have a unique taste. Auvergne is well known for these lentils, suitable for traditional Auvergnate cuisine as well as more sophisticated and elaborate dishes prepared by master chefs. This tasty legume is the main ingredient of the rural speciality known as ‘Petit Salé’ (salted belly pork), accompanied by sausages and spare ribs.
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“ There is no doubt, Auvergne is a cheese lover’s paradise! A large variety
of high quality goats and sheep cheeses are made in small farm homesteads.
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‘Aligot’ is another popular dish made with mashed potato, blended with melted Tomme cheese (from Cantal), cream and garlic. This mixture is stirred continuously over a low heat to produce an elastic, doughy consistency, and then served immediately, usually with grilled homemade sausages and ‘tripoux’ (sheep tripe stuffed with sweetbreads, a variety of herbs and fresh garden vegetables). One is spoilt for choice with a delectable variety of seasonal fare. Springtime is for fishing, with fish such as wild trout, salmon, char, pike and zander being available. Late summer and autumn, hearty meals prepared with venison, wild boar and waterfowl are appreciated, and Sunday afternoons can be spent foraging in the forests for mushrooms and wild berries.
Bleu d’auvergne: A strong, pungent blue veined cheese with an intense sharpness. Saint Nectaire: This is the favourite of Auvergne cheeses and one of France’s best loved. There is a distinct difference between the Farmstead Saint Nectaire, and ‘Saint Nectaire laitier’ which is made from pasteurised milk in commercial creameries. Cheese made in creameries often has a less
complex flavour but both farm and creamery produced Saint Nectaire varieties are traditionally ripened on straw and have a mild but distinct nutty flavour.
travel
There is no doubt, Auvergne is a cheese lover’s paradise! A large variety of high quality goats and sheep cheeses are made in small farm homesteads. No cheese platter would be complete without one or several of the regions excellent cheeses, including 5 which have earned the prestigious Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) label:
Cantal: Another favourite of the French, there are three types: Jeune (young), aged for 1 to 2 months and has a milkier flavour and a light coloured rind. Entre-deux (in between), aged for 2 to 6 months, it shows stronger, floral flavours and its rind develops a dimpled surface. Vieux (old), aged for longer, it has a spicy, pungent, gamey flavour. The flavour of the cheese is dramatically affected by the length of time it is aged. Salers is made between the months of April
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“ and November to ensure that the cheese is made only from the milk of Salers cows that have been feeding on lush pastures. It is aged for a minimum of three months. The intense herbaceous, aromatic flavour of this cheese is due to the wild mountain flora whose subtle essence is transferred from pasture to cheese in the milk. Fourme d'Ambert: It is traditionally made on farm homesteads in the mountains of the Livradois-Forez. Creamy and smooth, this blue cheese combines a tangy, aromatic perfume with a rustic slightly sweet flavour and has a unique cylindrical shape. Although the Auvergne region is not well known for its wines, this ancient wine growing area produces some good white, red and rosé wines. The wines produced are light, fresh and fruity. Wines from ‘Cotes d’Auvergne’ and ‘SaintPourcain’ are the best known from the region. Auvergne White Wines Chardonnay is the varietal that is used for the production of Auvergne whites which boast a wooded flavour. Auvergne Rosé – Produced from
One is spoilt for choice with a
delectable variety of seasonal fare.
a Gamay varietal, it is a fruity, dry wine and should be consumed when still young. Auvergne Red Wines - The soft and fruity red wines are produced using Gamay and Pinot noir grapes. These authentic Auvergne wines are little-known outside the region but they are good quality wines at affordable prices; yet another of Auvergne’s secret treasures! Time has stood still in this unspoilt French regional gem, and the landscape’s pastoral charm provides the perfect backdrop to feast on Auvergnate specialities. The diverse flavours and authentic tastes created from an abundance of regional produce, are best enjoyed in a rustic village brasserie, sipping good wine and savouring the true hospitable warmth that is Auvergne.
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What's in
season Here is our seasonal guide. Keeping you up to date as to what is readily available on the shelves in your local stores across South Africa. Vegetables Asparagus, artichokes, beetroot, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, chives, garlic, horseradish, kale, leeks, mushrooms, parsnips, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, turnips. Fruits Apples, avocado, gooseberries, guavas, granadilla, grapefruit, kiwi, kumquats, lemons, limes, loquats, naartjies, oranges, tomato. Herbs Basil, bulb fennel, calendula, dandelion, fennel, garlic chives, garden cress, lavender, marjoram, mustard, nasturtiums, parsley, rocket, sage (limited), sorrel, thyme, oreganum, rosemary. Available All year ROUND . . . Bananas, butternut, carrots, cucumber, lemons, lettuce, onions, pineapples, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, squash, sweet potatoes.
LAUREN'S A passion for good food Heather Park, a suburb of George, in 2009. Lauren’s Deli Eatery soon became a choice destination for foodies visiting the Garden Route, being ranked among the Top 20 culinary destinations in the Garden Route, and one of the top three eateries in George on TripAdvisor. Twenty two years ago, Lauren and Bobby Pelser decided to exchange the hustle and bustle of Johannesburg for a “quieter” farm life on the Garden Route. Lauren’s passion for good food soon put an end to the quiet part of their new life though. Trading at various farmers’ markets in the area, her taste and approach to preparing foods that are influenced by her travels around the world to exotic destinations such as Alaska, Kenya, Egypt, Japan, Australia and Israel, attracted food lovers from all over the region. She became well-known for her particular brand of Mediterraneanstyle cuisine, and being the first person to introduce falafels and shwarmas to the Garden Route. “If I have to put a name to my style of cooking, I would say Mediterranean inspired, with my own personal touch,” explains Lauren. Deciding to move from producing food at home, she opened Lauren’s Deli Eatery in
Forever seeking to expand and improve, Lauren closed the Deli Eatery in September 2015 and moved to the newly developed Eden Meander Lifestyle Centre in George where the new-look Lauren’s opened its doors at the end of last year. Her daughter Amy joined her, adding a fresh, new dimension to an already winning recipe whilst still staying true to their core values.
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Offering an ever-expanding menu with delicious tastes and textures, Lauren’s justifies what every foodie knows: There is no love sincerer than the love of food.
If I have to put a name to my style of cooking, I would say MEDITERRANEAN inspired with my own personal touch.
5
ways to spice
up YOUR LIFE
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Words and recipes by Franc¸ois Ferreira
Spice blends come and go as fashion in food dictates. However a few classic blends will always be part of my repertoire, since they can be applied in so many ways, from baking to dipping bread or used as a crust on food.
INGREDIENTS
One of the most commonly used spice blends is Garam Masala, the basis of any curry. As with most recipes, there are many versions, as the recipe is usually handed down from generation to generation. I’m sharing two that I find wonderfully aromatic, as well as a few other spice blends that might not be that familiar, but which are so basic that everyone can make them.
1. Preheat the oven to 180ÂşC. 2. Place the hazelnuts on a baking
DUKKAH Dukkah is an Egyptian spice blend that can become addictive! Serve it with toasted crusty bread and olive oil. First dip the bread in olive oil, then into the Dukkah, close your eyes and enjoy this nutty, aromatic mix. Easy Makes about 250 ml Time: 10 minutes
180 ml hazelnuts 60 ml sesame seeds 30 ml coriander seeds 30 ml cumin seeds 30 ml freshly ground black pepper 5 ml sea salt flakes
sheet and bake for about 5 minutes, or until fragrant. 3. Whilst the nuts are still hot, pour them onto a tea towel. Fold the towel over them to cover, and rub vigorously to remove the skins. 4. Set aside to cool. 5. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry pan until they just start to turn colour. Be careful not to burn the seeds as it might give a bitter aftertaste. 6. Pour the seeds into a bowl immediately so that they will not continue toasting. 7. In the same pan, toast the coriander and cumin seeds, shake or stir occasionally until they start to pop. 8. Transfer the coriander and cumin seeds to a food processor and process until finely ground. 9. Pour into the bowl with the
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sesame seeds.
10. Place the cooled hazelnuts into the food processor and process until finely ground. 11. Add to the bowl with the other spices. 12. Add the salt and black pepper. 13. Mix well and enjoy!
HARISSA
Za'atar is a very versatile spice blend and can be used on meats, vegetables, rice and breads.
Harissa, the basic flavouring agent in Tunisian cuisine, is extremely versatile. Use it as a condiment for grilled meat or fish, add it to roasted vegetables, or stir into stews and soups. Adjust the amount of heat by increasing or reducing the number of chillies. Just remember, it is meant to be hot!
Easy Makes about 180 ml Time: 5 minutes
Easy Makes about 250 ml Time: 10 minutes
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
60 ml sumac 30 ml dried thyme 15 ml sesame seeds, toasted 30 ml dried marjoram 30 ml dried oregano 5 ml sea salt flakes
100 g dried red chillies, split lengthways and seeds removed Hot water 6 cloves garlic, peeled 60 ml ground cumin
Za’atar
1. Add all the ingredients together
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If you cannot find sumac, you can use mango powder.
and mix well. 2. Store the za'atar in a cool, dark place in a plastic zip bag or an airtight container. When stored properly, za'atar can be kept for 3-6 months. Chef's Note:
1. Place the chilies in hot water to soften and rehydrate them. 2. Drain and put them in a processor or blender with the garlic, cumin, salt and ground coriander. 3. Process for 30 seconds, and then add the olive oil in a steady stream until the mixture forms a paste. 4. Store in a screw top jar and add, a
food little at a time, to soups or stews to enhance the flavour. Chef's Note: Remember to wear rubber gloves when working with chillies, or later you will wipe your eyes or lips and find them smarting from the chillies.
Garam Masala Garam means hot, and masala
means a blend of spices. This mixture is essential if you want to make a good curry. It is usually sprinkled over the dish at the end of the cooking process as the spices have already been roasted. In some recipes it would be required to use the masala at the beginning of the cooking process. You can buy a commercial masala, but with time you will develop your own variation, reflecting your personality and taste.
3. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.
Easy Makes about 250 g Time: About 10 minutes
60 ml coriander seeds 30 ml cumin seeds 30 ml black peppercorns 10 ml cardamom seeds 5 ml whole cloves 2 x 5cm cinnamon sticks
Ingredients 15 g cumin seeds 75 g coriander seeds 40 g cardamom seeds 4 bay leaves 50 g black peppercorns 15 g grated nutmeg 15 g blade mace 40 g cinnamon sticks
1. Roast all the spices together in a heavy frying pan until they start to pop – this process is called vagaar (the ‘tempering’ of spices). 2. Grind the spices to a fine powder with a pestle and mortar or electric coffee grinder.
Garam Masala 2 Here is another recipe for Garam Masala; you will notice that it has a “sweeter” note. Easy Makes about 125 ml Time: 10 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1. Dry roast each of the spices separately in a heavy cast-iron frying pan. 2. After putting each spice into the pan, shake the pan until the spice turns a shade or two darker and gives off a freshly roasted aroma. 3. When all the spices have been roasted, grind them together to a fine powder in an electric coffee grinder. 4. Put the ground masala into a glass jar with an airtight lid, and keep in a cool place.
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Wild & Spicy
in africa I’m crazy for curry. As the seasons are rolling towards the winter chills, it’s only fitting to heat things up, not only in the kitchen, but with lots and lots of food spice. One of my favourite comfort foods is curry and I have added an extra treat by pairing each one with another winter comforter, wine. So let’s take a trip around Africa for some added extra flavour and be inspired by what our continent has to offer.
Goat Curry (North African Inspired) Serves: 4 Prep Time: 24 hrs Cooking Time: 2 ½ hrs
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Ingredients For the meat tenderising marinade 10 cloves garlic, crushed 15 ml smoked paprika 15 ml garam masala 5 ml ground coriander 5 ml ground ginger 2,5 ml chilli flakes 5 ml ground cinnamon 10 ml turmeric 1 sprig each of rosemary and thyme finely chopped Handful each fresh parsley and dill, finely chopped 60 ml sherry vinegar 1 onion Salt and pepper Oil For the curry 1 kg cubed goat meat with bone 45 ml vegetable oil
Words, recipes and styling by Lungi Nhlanhla Photography by GINJA
“ As the seasons are rolling towards the winter chills, it’s only fitting to heat things up, not only in the kitchen, but with lots and lots of food spice.
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2 onions, diced 2 star anise 3 cloves 6 curry leaves 10 ml chilli flakes 5 ml cumin seeds 4 garlic cloves, sliced 5 cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick 1 thumb ginger, finely grated 5 ml smoked paprika 5 ml chilli flakes 15 ml brown sugar 100 g dried apricots, chopped 1 tin peeled and chopped tomatoes 200 ml beef stock Salt and pepper to taste Fresh coriander to garnish Meat Tenderising Marinade 1. Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. 2. Add oil a little at a time to loosen. 3. Place the marinade in a bag with the meat and refrigerate overnight.
food Curry 1. In a heavy based pot heat the oil and sauté the onions, star anise, cloves, chilli flakes, cumin seeds, garlic cardamom pods, cinnamon and ginger for 10 minutes. 2. Add the paprika, 5 ml chilli flakes and sugar. 3. Add the marinated meat and apricots. 4. Stir in the tomatoes and beef stock until all ingredients are well combined and allow to simmer, stirring every 15 minutes, for 2hrs or until meat is soft. 5. Garnish and serve with krummelpap [crumbly maize porridge] (phuthu), yoghurt sauce and sambals. Tip: If goat meat is unavailable then substitute with stewing mutton or lamb on the bone.
Peanut Chicken curry
(East African inspired) Serves: 4 Prep Time: 25 mins Cooking Time: 30-40 mins
Ingredients 30 g butter 4 whole chicken drumsticks 4 chicken thighs quartered 15 ml vegetable oil 1 large onion, diced 15 ml garlic, crushed 1 thumb ginger, grated 2 jalapeño peppers, finely chopped 10 ml cumin seeds 10 ml coriander seeds 2,5 ml chilli powder 5 ml curry powder 5 ml turmeric 150 g peanuts, ground 1 tin peeled and chopped tomatoes 1 chicken stock cube 250 ml coconut cream 125 ml cream Handful fresh coriander, finely chopped Extra fresh coriander, raisins, sliced banana and peanuts for garnish
1. In a pan melt the butter and brown the chicken in small batches. 2. Remove and set aside. 3. Add the vegetable oil and sauté the onions, garlic, ginger, jalapeños, cumin and coriander seeds over a medium heat for 10-15 minutes.
4. Add the chilli powder, curry powder, turmeric and ground peanuts. 5. Add the chicken and cook for 15 minutes until all ingredients are well combined. 6. Lower the heat and add the tomatoes, chicken stock and coconut cream. Allow to simmer for 30 minutes or until chicken is soft. 7. Add the cream and allow to simmer for a further 5 minutes. 8. Just before serving, stir in the fresh coriander. 9. Garnish and serve with steamed bread (ujeque) and sambals.
Prawn curry (Cape Malay Inspired) Serves: 4 Prep Time: 25 mins Cooking Time: about 50 mins
Ingredients 3 ml oil 2 onions, finely diced 4 cloves garlic, crushed
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½ thumb ginger, finely grated 6 curry leaves 2 bay leaves 30 ml Cape Malay curry powder 30 ml tomato paste 100 g dried apricots, chopped 500 ml fish stock 2 carrots, cubed 1 ½ kg large prawns, shelled and deveined 250 ml cream Salt and pepper to taste Fresh coriander, chopped apricot and raisins for garnish
1. In a pan heat the oil and sautĂŠ the onions, garlic, ginger, curry leaves and bay leaves for 10 minutes. 2. Add the curry powder, tomato paste and apricots and cook for a further 10 minutes. 3. Add the fish stock and carrots and allow to simmer until sauce begins to reduce and thicken. 4. Add the prawns and simmer over a low heat until prawns are cooked and soft. 5. Just before serving add the cream and simmer for a further 5 minutes. 6. Season to taste, garnish and serve with yellow basmati rice, carrot salad and sambals.
Basic Sambals Serves: 4 Prep Time: 10 mins
Ingredients 1 white onion, finely diced 1 tomato, finely diced Bunch fresh coriander 45 ml white vinegar 30 ml white sugar Salt and pepper to taste
1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well. 2. Refrigerate until needed. Tips: For some variations substitute red onion for the white onion or use a variety of tomatoes. If using green tomatoes, more sugar might be needed as they are more tart. Add freshly chopped chillies or peppers of any kind for extra heat & spice. For some fresh flavour variety, add finely diced cucumber, mango or grated carrot.
food
Words by Allan Mullins
WINTER warmers
drinks
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Pack away your Sauvignons, Chenins and Chardonnays. As winter takes its chilly hold, now is the time to stoke up the fire, take your sizzling casserole out of the oven, get yourself a corkscrew, a large glass and a winter warming bottle of red wine. Which red wine? Here are some that you could try. Tierhoek Grenache 2013 In South Africa, the bug is steadily biting for the Spanish variety Grenache, and winemakers are queueing up to get grapes from Piekenierskloof, a veritable treasure
trove of quality Grenache. Tierhoek are ideally placed in the heart of Piekenierskloof and their 60 year old vines make a fabulous Grenache with abundant red fruits, subtly sweet spice, a velvety texture and soft elegant tannins. Impossible to resist. Cellar price: R125 Hartenberg Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz 2012 Carl Schultz (veteran of 23 harvests at Hartenberg) has put together a blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon (ripe blackcurrant and dark chocolate), 34% Shiraz (a softer spicy allure) and deft splashes of 4 other red cultivars for balance and a range of flavours. It is instantly appealing with luscious red/
black fruit and a “drink me” juiciness on the palate. Cellar price: R75 Allée Bleue Blue Owl Merlot 2014 Allee Bleue’s new easy drinking Blue Owl range is named for an owl family that was found in an old farm cottage and the magnificent avenue of blue gum trees at the farm’s entrance. Merlot is distinctly quaffable and fruit driven with cherries, redcurrants and a rounded, supple palate. Distinctly more-ish. Enjoy it with pasta topped with basil, roasted cherry tomatoes, slivers of Parmesan and drizzled with olive oil. Cellar price: R48
Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 A family cellar with Cabernet Sauvignon fundi, Etienne le Riche, working alongside his son, Christo (winemaker) and daughter, Yvonne (marketing manager). This Cabernet Sauvignon is as good as it gets with aromas of blackcurrant, ripe cherry, black olive and mint. The palate is fruit-rich with beautifully integrated oak, a hint of spice and fine structured tannins. Will mature for 5 to 8 years. Cellar price: R250 Glen Carlou Grand Classique 2012 Long-standing Glen Carlou cellarmaster Arco Laarman’s intimate knowledge
of his vineyards, shows in this adroit assemblage of the 5 Bordeaux varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon makes up half of the blend and is responsible for the ripe cassis, black berry fruits and firm structure, while the other 4 varieties add red fruit nuances and soften the palate, ensuring ripe, supple tannins. Cellar price: R135 Spier Creative Block 5 2012 Winemaker Johan Jordaan has orchestrated a distinctly creative blend from the 5 Bordeaux varieties, in which a core of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is supported by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. He says that in blending “intuition and art, meet science in deciding the percentages
drinks
of each grape”. There are flavours of forest black berries and dark chocolate, a generous palate with fruit and oak layers and ripe grippy tannins. A great partner for slow cooked oxtail. Cellar price: R129 Doran Shiraz 2013 Irishman, Edwin Doran and South African, Andre Badenhorst celebrated a long friendship by creating Doran Vineyards in the Voor Paardeberg. Their Shiraz has complex notes of black and white pepper, dried herbs and clove spiciness; the well structured palate echoes these flavours and has a lingering fruity finish. Enjoy with Irish stew or Springbok loin with a rich Shiraz sauce. Cellar price: R79
Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Shiraz 2009 The Kleine Zalze wine team scours the Cape’s vineyards to find suitable grapes, with only the exceptional going into their much-awarded Family Reserve range. This Shiraz is from 3 different soil types, each adding a different dimension to the wine. Experience wild berry fruit, lavishly extravagant spices, lush mid palate, a velvety texture and firm sensual tannins. Cellar price: R300 Creation Syrah-Grenache 2014 Carolyn and JC Martin’s Hemel-en-Aarde winery, Creation, is a splendid place to visit. Exceptional wines, scrumptious food, welcoming charm, divine setting.
“ Carolyn describes this blend of 80% Shiraz and 20% Grenache as “alluring aromas of ripe black olive elegantly complemented by whiffs of pepper. A well-endowed, full-bodied Rhônestyle blend with intense flavours of ripe plum, black pepper, tapenade and umami”. She suggests drinking it with Cape Malay lamb curry. Cellar price: R175 Boplaas Ruby Port Non-Vintage Boplaas in Calitzdorp is a true family affair with Cape Wine Master Carel Nel the owner and cellarmaster, alongside his daughters, Margaux who is the winemaker, and Rozanne who handles marketing. This easy sipping Cape Ruby is made from traditional
Portuguese port varieties and spends 18 months in old French oak barrels. The nose has dark chocolate, fruitcake and sweet vanilla and the palate is rich and luscious. Cellar price: R58 Boplaas Vintage Port 2013 Boplaas are known for their port but also excel in still wines made from Portuguese port varieties, muscadels and brandy. This vintage has been in French oak barrels for 24 months and has ripe plum, dark cherry, violet and licorice flavours with a rich, creamy, mouth-warming palate. Enjoy with mature cheeses, dark chocolate, dried fruit and nuts. Age for 10 years or more. Cellar price: R75
get yourself a corkscrew, a large glass and
a winter warming bottle of red wine.
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TASTE THE LITTLE KAROO Book review
Taste the Little Karoo is Beate Joubert’s first book. Beate is the consummate foodie who loves the flavours of the Little Karoo. She owns and manages the Alfresco Deli on their family farm/winery, Joubert Tradauw, near Barrydale.
Beate Joubert Published by Penguin Random House Price: R 285
Beate has managed to capture the essence of the Little Karoo - the beauty of rugged landscape, the specific taste of the region’s food and, of course, the character of the people of the Little Karoo. She takes you on a trip of tastes, colours and textures, covering everything from tapas to comfort food, braai dishes to celebratory platters.
Taste the Little Karoo is an inspiration to hobby cooks, home entertainers, wine lovers, lifestyle enthusiasts and people who respect tradition and are not afraid to experiment. Ginja asked Beate a few questions:
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GINJA: Where did your love affair with food start? BEATE: I think as a child in my grandmothers’ kitchens, seeing them work with Karoo food like lamb cuts and infusing it with fresh herbs that grew wild in the garden, home-made stocks and delicacies like ‘’harsings’’ and tripe. There was no way we would be allowed to say no to these traditional dishes. My father was from Gauteng and he could never get himself to eat it, but he bribed us by saying that sheep brains make you clever, and would give us money not to offend my grandmother. So she felt flattered that we ate her “kaiings” and her amazing liver in caul fat for breakfast. In the Karoo they lived a lot like the people from the French countryside, sitting around the table, first preparing food together like peeling vegetables and then lingering around that same table with candles and the most beautiful linen and plates in the evenings. I still remember the
fruit, the different varieties of watermelons and cucumbers we had to harvest, the hard, dry, flat biltong or meat cuts that were held in the cold room. Worlds apart, my other grandmother lived at the Coast, an arty, real home cook that even those days, made bouillabaisse or paella. G: What inspired you to write the book? B: I wanted to make food and recipes more approachable, and to show a less staged or rather authentic way of cooking and living, bringing the recipes of my world to people in a more Mediterranean way. I wanted to give Klein Karoo cooking a twist, turning my recipes into something unique and different. I had many plans, like going on a road trip into the Klein Karoo and showing the world authentic Klein Karoo people, architecture, lifestyle, food and wine. I wanted to salute my three sisters, my mother and my two grandmothers for what they’ve given me, for my husband and children and friends for what they have contributed to my life, and the only way I eventually thought
“
I wanted to give Klein Karoo cooking a twist,
turning my recipes into something unique.
Marrowbones with a Parmesan Crust and Apple Salsa
“ I always tell people not to be scared of the kitchen. The kitchen and cooking is a labour of love, and for
me the concept of fear is not the connection I have emotionally Oupa Jacobus’s with food. venison or
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ostrich fillets
klein tradouw lamb or kudu liver
fit to do it, was to put it in a book! G: What are your favourite kitchen utensils? A good quality whisk, good pots and pans, a big paella and stirfry pan, a good convection oven, good, thick cake tins (a ring, a small, a square … you name it!) and the best working knives.
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G: People say if they have a carrot, a potato, an onion and a tomato, they have food in the house. What are your staple ingredients? B: Fresh herbs like basil and rocket, beetroot, butternut and brinjal, good feta and Dutch cheeses or soft cheeses, good meats like a fillet, a leg of lamb, pesto, tapenade, humus and Dukkah. Good Arborio rice, polenta and everything from the garden like MY MOM's prickly pears and figs, nuts and plenty brown of seeds. chicken
Oupa Jacobus’s venison or ostrich fillets
Over the Coals Serves 6
Ingredients 6 x 200 g eland or ostrich fillets ¼ cup melted butter Coarse salt to taste ½ cup fresh or frozen cranberries ¼ cup port 3 Tbsp brown sugar Onion marmalade to taste 6 pieces brie, melted A handful fresh coriander or thyme, torn Freshly ground black pepper to taste For the marinade ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
food
“ the beauty of rugged landscape, the specific taste of the region’s food and, of course, the character of the people. ¼ cup red wine 1 Tbsp fruit chutney cup balsamic vinegar 2 Tbsps brown sugar 1 Tbsp honey 1 tsp salt 2 tsps grated lemon zest ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ cup port 2 tsps dried oreganum 2 tsps dried thyme 2 tsps mild mustard powder 2 tsps crushed garlic
cooking from the residual heat). 4. In a saucepan, over the mediumhot coals, mix the cranberries, port and brown sugar together and cook until the port is reduced by half. 5. To serve, place each fillet in a pan and spoon over a teaspoon of onion marmalade followed by the melted brie, and a teaspoon of the cranberry and port sauce. Sprinkle with coriander or thyme leaves and grind over black pepper to taste.
1. To make the marinade, mix all the ingredients together. Marinate the fillets in the mixture overnight in the fridge. 2. Remove the fillets from the fridge (but reserve the marinade for basting) and bring to room temperature. About 10 minutes before braaiing, mix the leftover marinade with the melted butter and salt, until combined. 3. Prepare your braai and when the coals are medium-hot, place the fillets on a grid and braai for 3 minutes on each side while basting with the marinade. Set the fillets aside to rest (they will continue
Klein Tradouw lamb or kudu liver in Caul Fat Serves 6
Ingredients 18 squares caul fat (± 6 x 6 cm each) (a specialist butcher will be able to supply this) 1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 tsp finely chopped garlic 1 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
± 750 g lamb or kudu liver, roughly chopped 1 slice molasses bread, finely crumbled ½ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp ground nutmeg Finely chopped fresh parsley to taste Salt and pepper to taste
1. Soak the caul fat in warm water for about 30 minutes. Drain. 2. In a frying pan, sauté the onion, garlic and rosemary, then leave to cool completely. Combine the liver with the onion mixture, bread crumbs, cloves, coriander, nutmeg, parsley, salt and pepper. 3. Spoon a tablespoon of the liver mixture onto each square of caul fat, then fold the fat around the liver and secure with a toothpick if necessary. 4. Arrange the parcels on a braai grid (or in a heavy-bottomed saucepan). 5. When the coals are low, braai the meat (or fry on the stove top over a low heat) until browned and crispy (most of the fat will cook away ). 6. Serve with hot mustard and fresh
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ciabatta with butter. Tip: Ensure that you braai the parcels over a very low heat, otherwise they will burst open. Klein Tradouw is a neighbouring farm. They regularly serve these to guests with a glass of cold chardonnay.
Pita bread with kudu fillet,
Salsa and Mustard Mayonnaise Serves 6–8
Ingredients
pita bread with kudu fillet
3 Tbsps butter, melted Coarse salt to taste 1 tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp white pepper Freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste 4 x 250 g kudu fillets 6–8 pita breads For the salsa 8 small ripe tomatoes, halved 1 large red onion, peeled and chopped A handful of fresh basil, torn A handful baby spinach, torn 1 red chilli, finely chopped
¼ cup balsamic reduction Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the mayonnaise ¼ cup olive oil 2 tsps prepared Dijon mustard ¼ cup mayonnaise 2 egg yolks Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 clove garlic, crushed
1. Mix together the ingredients for the salsa in one bowl, then do the same for the mayonnaise in another bowl. Set both aside until ready to serve. 2. Mix the melted butter, salt, peppers and lemon juice together and rub over the fillets. Heat a griddle pan and fry each fillet for 5 minutes on each side – the meat should be tender and pink on the inside. Remove from the pan and leave to rest for about 5 minutes before cutting into pieces. Spoon some fillet, salsa and mayonnaise into each pita and serve warm. Tip: These pitas are also delicious served with chicken strips. Replace the salsa with tzatziki or thinly sliced cucumber. Add vegetables such as butternut and brinjal, then top with onion marmalade, feta and fresh herbs.
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Words and recipes by Franc¸ois Ferreira Photography by Kelvin Saunders
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Life is short
so GIVE IT A SHOT Recipes by Juliette Mudaly
Winter is the perfect time to indulge and enjoy the comfort foods in life. We have the perfect excuse for you to open up that bottle of Amarula, and what better way to enjoy it than with your friends and family around a warm braai. End your evening with one of these three delicious treats. Note to self: the marshmallow roasting may require some patience, but you are guaranteed to enjoy them either way.
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30 ml maple syrup ½ tsp salt 5 ml cinnamon powder 125 ml pecan nuts, toasted and roughly chopped Cinnamon sugar for sprinkling on top
1. Line a loaf tin with foil and grease with
Amarula French
cooking spray and gently place the bread inside. 2. Whisk the milk, Amarula, eggs, sugar, maple syrup, salt, cinnamon and pour over the bread. 3. Sprinkle pecan nuts between each slice and top with pecan nuts and cinnamon sugar. 4. Wrap tightly with cling wrap and refrigerate overnight. The bread will absorb all of the mixture. 5. Remove the cling wrap and lightly cover with foil and bake on a gas braai for about 25 minutes or until golden. 6. Serve with fresh fruit and maple syrup.
Toast
Prep time: 10 MINS Cooking time: ABOUT 25 MINS
Ingredients 1 whole loaf white bread, sliced 375 ml full cream milk 125 ml Amarula 3 eggs 30 ml sugar
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Amarula Pudding Makes: about 8 Prep time: 1o MINS Cooking time: ABOUT 15 MINS
Ingredients For the filling 2 boxes Romany Creams (original or
“ Winter is the perfect time to indulge and enjoy the comfort foods in life.
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“ the perfect excuse for you to open up that bottle of Amarula, and
what better way to enjoy it than with your friends and family around a warm braai.
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easy chicken & dumplings
food flavoured) 375 ml cream 450 ml Amarula, as desired FILLING 1. Grease a cast iron pot and set aside until later use. 2. Crumble the biscuits into a large mixing bowl. 3. Gradually add in the cream, mixing until combined, and add in the Amarula. Taste as you go to get the flavour you prefer. The mixture should be wet. 4. Spoon in the mixture into the prepared pot. 5. Cover with foil and bake on top of the gas braai for approximately 15 minutes or until set. It will set like a sponge pudding. Chef’s note: If you would like to twist things up with this pudding, prepare them in orange shells, adding a delicious citrus infusion. orange moulds
1. Use 6-8 medium oranges. Slice the tops off each orange, about 2cm in diameter, and set the tops aside. 2. Using a knife cut between the orange flesh and rind and then hollow out the orange with a spoon. Repeat with the other remaining oranges. 3. Spoon in the mixture into the prepared orange moulds, and put
their “lids” on. 4. Cover with foil and bake on top of the gas braai for approximately 10 minutes or until set. It will set like a sponge pudding.
Amarula
Marshmallow Pockets COOKING time: 30-45 MINS (DEPENDING ON HOW MANY YOU MAKE)
FREEZING time: 25 MINS
Ingredients 1 bag marshmallows 500 ml Amarula bottle
1. Over a gas braai, toast marshmallows on a fork until a dark golden brown. 2. Remove from the fork and place on a plate. 3. Once the marshmallows implode, place in the freezer for about 25 minutes. 4. Remove when ready, pour in the Amarula and enjoy your marshmallow pockets straight away. IT’S NOON SOMEWHERE!!!
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HAPPY campers Recipes by Juliette Mudaly
Everyone knows that in order to be a good adventurer, you need to be prepared. Dress warmly during the winter days and make sure you have a dry shelter (so make sure your tent is pitched or your fort is secured). Enlist the help of an adult to light the fire, helping you to set the scene to tell your tales to those who gather around it. Last, but certainly not least, once the fire is ready, you will need nourishment to keep you fuelled for your future adventures. Parental supervision is advised for the recipes below.
Campfire Blueberry Custard Tarts Makes: about 8 Prep time: 15 mins Cooking time: about 35 mins
Ingredients For the blueberry mixture 375 ml fresh or frozen blueberries 125 ml sugar 45 ml corn starch 200 ml water
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15 - 30 ml lemon juice For the tarts Store bought short crust pastry, thawed Store bought custard Blueberry Mixture 1. In a Weber, make a fire using charcoal and firelighters. Ensure the braai is extremely hot before cooking. 2. Place all the ingredients into a
large saucepan, place onto the grid of the Weber and cook until thick. Set aside to cool. tartS 1. Grease the individual tart moulds with cooking spray (we used mini tin mugs, as per picture) and set aside until later use. 2. Roll out the short crust pastry on a lightly dusted surface to about 5mm. Line the inside of each mould with the pastry, ensuring some of the pastry hangs over the edges allowing for shrinkage. 3. Wrap each mould in foil and cook on the weber for about 20 minutes or until golden. You can remove the foil for the last 5 minutes of baking. To assemble: Remove the tart shells from the moulds (if you aren’t using them to serve in) and spoon in the custard and top with the blueberry mixture. Have fun with the pie crusts. If you would like a woven effect, use the leftover pastry and cut into ½ cm wide strips. Use the strips to form a weave. Use one of the moulds to cut out the desired pie crust sizes. Alternatively you can use various biscuit cutters to create fun shapes and designs. Bake separately for
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“ 7 minutes, or until golden brown, and place on top of your tart before serving. Serving Suggestions: Can be served with ice cream or whipped cream.
Enlist the help of an adult to light the fire, helping you to set the scene to tell your tales to those who gather around it.
Cream Cheese & Strawberry Jam
French Toast Rollups Makes: 12 Prep time: 10-15 MINS Cooking time: ABOUT 10 MINS
Ingredients For the rollups 12 slices white bread 230 g cream cheese, softened 1 jar strawberry jam For the egg mixture 2 medium eggs 50 ml milk Salt to taste For the cinnamon sugar 60 ml sugar 5 ml cinnamon
1. In a Weber, make a fire using
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charcoal and firelighters. Ensure the braai is extremely hot before cooking. 2. In a large bowl, combine the sugar and cinnamon, mix and set aside for later use. 3. Trim the crust off each slice of bread. Using a rolling pin flatten each slice separately. Spread the cream cheese and strawberry jam onto about of the slice of bread and roll up. 4. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and milk together. 5. Heat the pan over the braai and grease with spray and cook. Coat the rollups in the egg mixture. Place the rollup in the pan with the seam side down. 6. Fry until golden brown on all sides, and cooked through. Remove and immediately coat in cinnamon sugar. 7. Serve warm.
“
Once the fire is ready, you will need nourishment to keep you fuelled for your future adventures.
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Bacon & Maple Syrup French
Toast Rollups
Makes: 12 Prep time: 10-15 MINS Cooking time: ABOUT 10 MINS
Ingredients For the rollups 12 slices white bread 12 pieces streaky bacon Maple syrup, as desired For the egg mixture 2 medium eggs 50 ml milk Salt to taste For the cinnamon sugar 60 ml sugar 5 ml cinnamon
1. In a Weber, make a fire using charcoal and firelighters. Ensure the braai is extremely hot before cooking. 2. In a large bowl, combine the sugar and cinnamon, mix and set aside until later use. 3. Cook the bacon in a pan until crispy and set aside for later use. 4. Trim the crust off each slice of bread. Using a rolling pin flatten
each slice separately. Add a slice of bacon to one end of the bread and drizzle with maple syrup then roll up. 5. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and milk together. 6. Heat the pan over medium high heat then grease with spray and cook. Coat the bread roll in the egg mixture. Place the rollup in the pan with the seam side down. 7. Fry until golden brown on all sides, and cooked through. Remove and immediately coat in cinnamon sugar. 8. Serve warm.
junior
drinks
John Platter Published by Pawpaw Publishing Price: R 375 I bought my copy of John Platter’s new book at the Swartland Revolution in November last year, where the book was first launched and he was a guest speaker. He and Erica were selling signed copies after the business of the Revolution was over, and I just couldn’t resist buying one for myself. And what a great buy!
Book review
my kind of wine Words by Denise Lindley
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It is not just any boring old wine book, it is about John and Erica’s travels through the winelands of South Africa, visiting old friends and trying some of their wines. They visit different wine farms, in no particular order or preference, where John talks about the winemaker and some of the more outstanding wines from that producer. Having started the Platters Wine Guide back in 1980, and being a winery owner himself (he owned Delaire and was involved at Clos de Ciel) he obviously knows probably all the old and most of the new winemakers personally! He starts off
“ with different cultivars, and I found myself skipping pages to find out which wines he recommended or spoke about. If there was a wine that took my fancy that I had not heard about before, I would excitedly look it up in the latest Platters Wine Guide, and then Google it to find out more about the winemaker or the wine estate. I have discovered some wine farms and winemakers that I didn’t know existed, and some wines that I am just dying to try. As a result I am now on a mission to visit some of these out of the way wineries and to try to get hold of some of these wines. I like the fact that John acknowledges the new kids on the block and praises them and their new wine making techniques, while still praising the much more established winemakers. He is not so pompous as to turn his nose up at new ideas. In addition to all the wines and people, there is a section on recipes from chefs who all own, or work in winelands restaurants, sharing some of their favourite recipes. My regret is that I didn’t get to accompany him on his travels, share his amazing meals and experiences, and meet all the interesting people along the way! My Kind of Wine is certainly My Kind of Book!
John acknowledges the new kids on the block and praises them and their new wine making techniques, while still praising the much more established winemakers.
Health matters:
HOT & WILD REMEDIES FOR WINTER... Words by Mario Botha
Winter-time is like peak-hour traffic in the pharmacy, and due to being exposed to all of the “vehicles” that transport germs into the shop, I need some sort of protection against it. The following are my hot & wild tips to survive the coldness, dryness and germs that hit you in winter. 1. Drink 6 – 10 cups of warming liquids such as hot water and herbal teas (with spices like ginger, cinnamon and cardamom) to prevent dehydration and to warm your body from the inside. 2. Keep warm by wearing warm clothes and scarves. Why? If you expose your mucus membranes (the soft tissue in your throat, nose and eyes) to cold, it gets irritated and inflamed and loses its protective abilities, making you vulnerable to bugs and germs. 3. Use baby oil or any other bath
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oils (enriched with vitamin E and moisturisers) in your bath or after a shower to prevent dry and itchy skin. 4. Avoid refined sugar treats which weakens your immune system. This will not just protect you, but will also help you maintain your ultimate weight for summer. 5. Eat nuts and seeds (in limited quantities) like Almonds, Cashews, Brazil nuts, Walnuts, Hazelnuts, Flax seeds and Sesame seeds. These will provide necessary vitamins and natural oils and provide required nutrients to keep the body warm. 6. The obvious tip: eat fruits rich in vitamin C like oranges, lemons and tangerines which will help flush out toxins from the body, protect you from free radicals and support the immune system. If you don’t like these fruits, opt for a vitamin C supplement.
7. Use a daily antihistamine. Why? Allergens (substances that causes allergies) causes inflammation in the nasal and throat passages. This inflammation weakens the defence mechanism and makes you more vulnerable to viruses and bacteria. See also point 2 above. 8. Wash your hands. This is not like a carwash when you do a wash and go. I mean you really have to work it. The rule of thumb is to sing the “Happy Birthday” song twice. This is long enough to wash your hands thoroughly and wash away germs and bacteria. Use warm water and a sanitising soap. 9. Use a cortisone nose spray, especially if you are prone to sinus infections and congestion. This is also handy for those overseas travels and germ-generating Boeings. It will protect you a bit better against bacteria and viruses which target your upper respiratory tract infections. 10. Go for a flu vaccination. If you didn’t get one this year, please consider getting one next year.
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Remember to consult with your doctor on any of the above as your doctor knows what is best for you.
EXCELLENCE IN CULINARY & HOSPITALITY TRAINING
* Factual accuracy is a general overview only. Discuss any decision you want to make with a healthcare worker.
Winter-time is like peak-hour traffic in the pharmacy, AND DUE TO BEING EXPOSED TO ALL OF THe "VEHICLES" THAT TRANSPORT GERMS INTO THE SHOP. I need some
sort of protection against it.
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ask a chef Chef Rudi Liebenberg Images supplied
Renowned Chef Rudi Liebenberg, one of Cape Town's top chefs, answers some of your food queries. Q: What are the healthier carbohydrate vegetables to substitute potatoes with in a meal? - Sarah Steart A: My personal favourite apart from using sweet potatoes and cauliflower is celeriac, roasted and mashed or pureed. Q: I have a really yummy pasta recipe, but sometimes I make way too much sauce for it. How long can I keep a sauce in the fridge for, if it is made with cream? - Mary Pitout A: It should last two to three days if cooled and refrigerated. I personally make a lot of extra sauce every time I make pasta, for those lazy Sunday evenings. Put it in the freezer. When you reheat place in a pot with a little water. Q: Sometimes a recipe requires softened butter
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and more often than not I forget to take it out of the fridge, so I do a quick fix in the microwave but it does tend to melt too much. Does it make a big difference to the end baking result? - Yashika Moosamy A: It depends what the application is for, melted butter for doughnuts or even muffins is fine. But the same cannot be said when a recipe calls for creaming soft butter with sugar, as air bubbles/air pockets are created. This is essential when baking items like cookies and some cakes, which requires gas to expand, creating lighter product. Q: I got my baking skills from my mom non-existent - but I love it. I wanted to know why my cake looks beautiful in the oven but taken out, it sinks slightly. What am I doing wrong? - Skye Erins A: It could be a couple of things. It is important to remember when baking anything, the recipe must be followed with 100% accuracy. From weighing and measuring to instructions on the recipe. If the recipe calls for a pre heated oven, then these instructions must be followed. The reasons could be that the temperature was too high or too low, cake taken out too early, or being heavy handed with the leavening agent. The cake can be salvaged as long as it is baked through. Q: Is it fine to double or triple my recipe ingredients for baking if I want to make bigger quantities? Does this reduce the
quality at all? – Philile Msuna A: I find generally by doubling a recipe, that the end results are often different, I prefer batch preparations. If doubling, do so very accurately, use the same size pans or shells when baking to ensure consistent results. It becomes a problem when you start multiplying recipes by four or five that proportions do not work. Q: Eggs for me are awesome, mainly because I’m a student, but I always wanted to know how to distinguish if an egg has gone off or not before I use them? - Donovan Stein A: Firstly it starts with buying good quality eggs, pay attention on the expiry date. If you are a student that enjoys eggs, you will never have eggs old enough to worry about, but, if in the event that you are sleeping over at a friend’s house, these tricks will help. Place the egg in a bowl of water, if it lies flat it will generally be fresher, if one side starts to lift, it is a little older due to air pocket increasing in size. If you are still not sure, when breaking these eggs, crack into a separate cup first before use or combining with others. Do you have a question that you have always wanted to ask a chef? you can look forward to having your questions, flops and wives' tale mysteries, answered by a professional Chef. Send your question to press@ginjamedia.com and you could win if published.
food
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SPICEd FRIKADELLE AND Chutney
This dish reminds me of WHEN
Chef Rudi Liebenberg of The Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel shares one of his delicious but simple recipe ideas that anyone can try.
I FIRST STARTED OFF IN THE KITCHEN AT TURFFONTEIN RACE COURSE,
and the ladies that made the best chutney I have ever tasted.
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Sandwich
EASY | serves 6 Prep Time: 30 mins Cooking Time: 55 mins
Ingredients For the chutney 2 onions, peeled and finely diced 1 Tbsp canola oil 1 Tbsp clarified butter 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and crushed 1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted and crushed 8 curry leaves 5 g turmeric powder 2 cloves garlic, peeled chopped 1 tsp grated ginger 4 chillies, 2 chopped 2 slit down centre 6 tomatoes, grated
Water as needed Pinch sugar as needed Chopped coriander For the frikadelles 500g minced beef 4 slices bread, cubed ¼ cup milk 2 eggs, beaten 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 chilli, finely chopped 1-2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp ground paprika 3 Tbsps fresh parsley, chopped 1 Tbsp fresh thyme, finely chopped ½ tsp coriander, chopped 1 Tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped ½ tsp cumin powder 1 tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp Worchester sauce 1 tsp chutney 2 Tbsps vegetable oil For the rolls 6 prego rolls 150 ml yoghurt Fresh coriander 2 tomatoes sliced Butter for rolls Mixed vegetable atchar
CHUTNEY BASE 1. Add the onion to the oil and butter and cook until soft and translucent. If it starts to catch, add a little water but ensure to cook away before adding the rest of the ingredients. 2. Add in the mustard seeds, coriander seeds, cumin seeds and cook for 5 minutes until fragrant. 1. Stir in the turmeric, curry leaves and extra butter if needed. Cook further for about 3-5 minutes. 3. Add the garlic, ginger, chillies and mix through. Cook for an additional 3-5 minutes and then add the grated tomatoes and sugar. 4. Stir in water if needed. Finish with coriander.
FRIKADELLES 1. Soak the bread in milk, add all the ingredients together and mix until well-combined. 2. Form the beef mixture into golf ball sizes and press to flatten slightly. 3. Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan and brown the meatballs on both sides or bake in oven. 4. Place in the prepared chutney to finish. TO ASSEMBLE Butter the rolls then toast. On each roll, place the tomato slices, top with 6 Frikadelles, then drizzle with yoghurt and finish with coriander. Serve.
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GINJA CHEAT SHEET Curry and Sambal Pairing
SOM TAM
FukujinZuke
TRADITIONAL SAMBAL
Som Tam is also known as a spicy green papaya salad. The sambal dish combines the five main taste elements: sour, savoury, hot, salty and sweet. Som Tam is unripe papaya is used with a mixture of chilli, lime, sugar, fish sauce and salt.
Fukujinzuke is a dish that is most common in Japan. It is a pickled vegetable dish. The use of finely chopped vegetables such as daikon, eggplant, lotus root and cucumber are pickled with a base and soy sauce is used for flavour.
A traditional South African sambal consists of chopped onions, tomatoes, coriander and is then mixed with vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. This combination is best served chilled as it has a crunchy texture and a tangy flavour.
BEST PAIRED WITH: Thai curries
BEST PAIRED WITH: Asian Beef Curry
BEST PAIRED WITH: Butter Chicken Curry
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KIT C NV HEN ER SIO N
CO
S
OVEN TEMPERATURES
MANGO CHUTNEY
CUCUMBER RAITA
Gas Mark 1 Gas Mark 2 Gas Mark 3 Gas Mark 4 Gas Mark 5 Gas Mark 6 Gas Mark 7 Gas Mark 8 Gas Mark 9
140˚C 150˚C 170˚C 180˚C 190˚C 200˚C 220˚C 230˚C 240˚C
275˚F 300˚F 325˚F 350˚F 375˚F 400˚F 425˚F 450˚F 475˚F
SPOONS, CUPS & LIQUIDS tsp-teaspoon, dsp-dessert spoon, tbsp-tablespoon
Mango chutney is a relish type sambal. Unripe green mangoes and an assortment of spices are used to make the tangy chutney. The mixture is simmered and then cooked down and can be stored for a period of time for future use.
Cucumber raita is a sambal that is for people who do not enjoy the hot tastes of curries and Indian cuisines. The dish can be varied with its base being yoghurt and fresh ingredients are added such as cucumber and tomatoes.
BEST PAIRED WITH: Jamaican Chicken Curry
BEST PAIRED WITH: Durban Mutton Curry
1/4 tsp 1/2 tsp 1 tsp 1 dsp 1 tbsp 1/4 cup 1/3 cup 1/2 cup 1 cup 4 cups
1.25 ml 2.5 ml 5 ml 10 ml 15 ml 60 ml 80 ml 125 ml 250 ml 1L
SOLID MEASUREMENTS 1 Cup Flour Caster Sugar Brown Sugar Butter Sultanas/Raisins Currants Golden Syrup Uncooked Rice Grated Cheese
Metric 140g 225g 170g 225g 200g 140g 340g 200g 110g
GRILLED YELLOWTAIL, Asparagus, Coriander, Roasted Potatoes with a Simple Salsa serves 1
INGREDIENTS 200 g yellow tail 5 baby potatoes 5 asparagus 20 g coriander Cherry tomatoes Spring onion Sherry vinegar Butter 1 lemon Salt Pepper SALSA 1. Slice the cherry tomatoes into thin rings. 2. Finely chop the spring onions. 3. Add 1 tsp of the sherry vinegar.
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4. Add a squeeze of lemon. 5. Season to taste. YELLOWTAIL 1. Grill the yellowtail for 3 minutes each side with butter and half a lemon. 2. Cut the baby potatoes into halves and add 5 g butter. 3. Bake at 180ยบC for 25 minutes. 4. Add some fresh coriander. 5. Grill asparagus in a pan with butter for 4 minutes, tossing continuously. 6. Add salt and pepper for seasoning. This WWF-SASSI recipe is courtesy of Chef Bjorn Guido, Executive Chef of the Millhouse Kitchen at Lourensford.
food G R E E N - B E S T CHO I C E Anchovy Angelfish Calamari/Squid (various species) Dorado (SA line caught) Gurnard (SA offshore trawl) Hake (SA trawl)
For more information please go to www.wwf.org.za/sassi or SMS the name of the fish to 079 499 8795, to find out if your fish is on the Green list.
Always look for MSC eco-labelled products, e.g. the South African trawled Hake, for the best choice in sustainable and traceable seafood. See www.msc.org for more info. Always look for ASC eco-labelled products for the best choice in responsible and traceable farmed seafood. See www.ascaqua.org for more info.
Rainbow trout (farmed in SA) Sardines (SA) Snoek (SA) Yellowfin tuna (SA pole caught) Yellowtail (SA)
The most sustainable choice from the healthiest and most well managed populations. These species can handle current fishing pressure, or are farmed in a manner that does not harm the environment.
ORANGE - THINK TWICE Cape dory Carpenter (SA line caught) Dorado (SA pelagic longline) East Coast spiny lobster Englishman Geelbek/Cape salmon (SA line caught) Hake (Namibia) Hake (SA demersal longline)
Kingklip Octopus Panga (SA line caught) Pangasius/Basa (farmed in Vietnam) Prawns (various species) Catface rockcod White-edge rockcod Yellowbelly rockcod
Red roman Atlantic salmon (Norway farmed) Santer Sole (East Coast) Swordfish (SA pelagic longline) Bigeye tuna (SA pelagic longline) West Coast rock lobster
Exercise caution when choosing these, as they are either depleting as a result of overfishing and are unable to sustain the current pressure, or fishing/farming methods may be causing harm to the environment.
RED - DON’T BUY Black musselcracker/ Poenskop Dageraad Jacopever Kob (SA inshore trawl) Red stumpnose/Miss Lucy Scotsman Shortfin Mako shark (SA pelagic longline) Biscuit skate
Baardman/Belman Blacktail/Dassie Brindle bass Bronze bream Cape stumpnose Galjoen Garrick King fish Natal knife jaw Natal stumpnose
Red steenbras River snapper Seventy-four Spotted grunter West Coast steenbras White musselcracker White steenbras Spotted Grunter West Coast Steenbras White Musselcracker
White stumpnose Bluefin tuna
Natal wrasse Potato bass
White Steenbras
NO SALE SPECIES
guide
Hottentot Kob (farmed in SA) King mackerel Queen mackerel Monk Mussels Oysters
Don’t buy these species. They are either from unsustainable populations, due to collapse and/or extreme environmental concerns and/or lack of management, or are illegal to buy or sell in South Africa.
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OUT&
about
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A look at the fabulous foodie events not to be missed
Tulbagh Christmas in Winter
Wacky Wine Weekend
Beer Boot Camp
25-26 JUNE, TULBAGH, WESTERN CAPE Celebrate the midwinter solstice in the quaint village of Tulbagh. The village is decorated with Christmas cheer and restaurants will be offering traditional Christmas fare. Wine estates through the valley will enter into the spirit and entertainment will be included at specific venues. Visit www.tulbaghtourism.co.za.
2-5 JUNE, ROBERTSON WINE VALLEY, WESTERN CAPE Wine farms, boutique wineries and tourist establishments showcase the valley’s award winning wines. Join the wine tastings, food pairings and educational presentations with the valley’s most esteemed winemakers. Embrace all the fun-filled wine activities and entertainment. Visit www.wackywineweekend.com.
2-9 JULY, JOHANNESBURG Beer Boot Camp is a full day event focusing on beer and the beer brewing process. This event is aimed at all brewers and beer enthusiasts interested in learning more about beer flavours and brewing methods. Meet leaders in the industry and top author Randy Mosher, while enjoying craft beers. More info and tickets available at www.beerbootcamp.co.za
The Juliet Cullinan Standard Bank Wine Festival
Plett Food Film Festival
11-13 JULY, PLETTENBERG BAY, 12-13 JULY, SUMMER PLACE, WESTERN CAPE JOHANNESBURG Whether you’re talking cuisine, Sponsored by Standard Bank for 16 years, film, chefs or entertainment, this the festival is an elite affair showcasing year’s event has a buffet of options hand-picked icon producers and has catering to any entertainment become a firm fixture for oenophiles junkie. Running into its third year, and wine lovers alike. Guests can meet the festival is one of a kind in SA leading winemakers, discuss vintages, celebrating cinema, wine and food maturation, the latest vintages and rare culture. Visit www.pletttourism.com wines. Visit www.julietcullinan.co.za. for tickets and info.
Wine and Dine Collaboration
4th Hermanus FynArts Festival
29 JULY, GRANDE PROVENCE HERITAGE WINE ESTATE, FRANSCHHOEK An evening of Shiraz expertly paired with a superb menu awaits guests at The Restaurant and Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate. A four-course meal designed by Executive Chef Darren Badenhorst awaits you with pairings of signature Shiraz from local wineries and the Grande Provence itself. To book email restaurant@grandeprovence.co.za.
10-19 JUNE, HERMANUS, WESTERN CAPE The picturesque seaside town of Hermanus is hosting its annual FynArts Festival in June. It boasts an incredible line-up of South African artists, musicians and speakers. The programme is packed with art exhibitions, live music, interesting food demonstrations and workshops. Visit www.hermanusfynarts.co.za for info.
The Pick n Pay Knysna Oyster Festival 1-10 JULY, KNYSNA, WESTERN CAPE Oyster enthusiasts, fitness fanatics and lovers of the good life can expect a fun-filled lifestyle festival. The 33rd annual festival is packed with 100 activities over 10 days. Races, sport challenges along with wine and night markets will be available. Bring the whole family for a days outing. Visit www.pnpoysterfestival.co.za
Grahamstown National Arts Festival 30 JUNE–10 JULY, GRAHAMSTOWN This year a diverse and exciting programme of drama, dance, physical theatre, street theatre, lectures, craft fair, workshops, tours of the city and its surrounds as well as a kids arts festival, will all be on the menu. With over 80% of the programme created by women. Visit www.nationalartsfestival.co.za for more info.
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DINE OUT guide BUSH TAVERN & GRILL, KZN
BARLEY AND BILTONG EMPORIUM, PAARL
The GINJA selection to dining "Hot and Wild" in South Africa.
Kwa-ZULU NATAL HOUSE OF CURRIES Tel No: 031 303 6067 Address: 275 Florida Road, Durban www.quarterbunny.co.za Thava Indian Restaurant Tel No: 078 802 7427 Address: 33 Compensation Beach Road, Ballito www.thava.co.za Bingelela Tel No: 036 448 1336
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Address: Bergville, Northern Drakensberg www.bingelela.co.za TRATTORIA LA TERRAZZA Tel No: 039 316 6162 Address: Outlook Road Umkobi Beach, Southbroom South www.trattoria.co.za Bush Tavern AND Grill Tel No: 031 568 1266 Address: 1 South Beach Road, Umdloti Beach www.bushtavern.com
Linga Lapa Tel No: 061 898 4939 Address: Nottingham Road, Exit 132 www.lingalapa.co.za
GAUTENG Spiceburg Tel No: 011 318 0327 Address: Carlswald Lifestyle Center, New Road, Midrand www.spiceburg.com Red Chilli Spice Tel No: 082 727 7798 Address: 345 Jan Smuts Avenue, Craighall Park, Johannesburg www.redchillispice.co.za Chaplins Grill Tel No: 011 886 8866 Address: 61 Woodlands Avenue & Near William Nicol, Republic Road, Johannesburg www.chaplinsgrill.co.za Safari Restaurant Tel No: 012 807 4545 Address: Safari Garden Centre, Corner of Lynnwood and Rubida Road, The Willows, Pretoria www.safarirestaurant.co.za The Mistress of Spice Tel No: 011 478 4321 Address: Shop 17 Ridge Terrace Shopping Centre, Without Street, Weltevreden Park, Johannesburg
www.themistressofspice.co.za Leshala Cuisine Tel No: 082 687 0447 Address: 139 Makapane Street, Molapo, Johannesburg www.leshala-cuisine.co.za
WESTERN CAPE Serengeti’s Restaurant Tel No: 028 735 1200 Address: Garden Route Game Lodge, Albertinia www.grgamelodge.co.za Barley and Biltong Emporium Tel No: 021 863 5200 Address: Suid-Agter-Paarl Road, Suider Paarl, Cape Town www.spiceroute.co.za Su Casa Restaurant Tel No: 087 350 1950 Address: R328, Cango Caves Road, Oudtshoorn www.surval.co.za
SERENGETI'S RESTAURANT, WESTERN CAPE
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Recipe index
A
Amarula French Toast 90 Amarula Marshmallow Pockets 93 Amarula Pudding 90 Asian Inspired Stuffed Baguette Served with a Tangy Carrot Salad 54
B
Bacon & Maple Syrup French Toast Rollups 98 Basic Sambals 76
C
Campfire Blueberry Custard Tarts 95 Cream Cheese & Strawberry Jam French Toast Rollups 97
D
Dukkah 69
E
K
Klein Tradouw Lamb or Kudu Liver in Caul Fat 85
O
Oupa Jacobus’s Venison or Ostrich Fillets Over the Coals 84
P
Pak Choi and Mushroom Coconut Soup 55 Pak Choi Salad with a Sweet Mustard Sesame Dressing 56 Peanut Chicken Curry 75 Pita Bread with Kudu Fillet, Salsa and Mustard Mayonnaise 86 Prawn Curry 76
R
Roast Honey & Pomegranate Duck 44
Easy Duck Breast with Brandy & Fig Sauce 40 Easy Duck Leg Confit 43
S
G
V
H
Z
Garam Masala 71 Garam Masala 2 71 Goat Curry 72 Grilled Yellowtail, Asparagus, Coriander, Roasted Potatoes with a Simple Salsa 110
Harissa 70
Spiced Frikadelle and Chutney Sandwich 106
Venison Braised in Beer and Chocolate 16 Venison Fillet Simmered in Sweet Wine 15 Venison Meatballs with a Difference 17 Venison Terrine 18
Za’atar 70
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I have been tasked with writing a column for you on the subject of “Hot and Wild” whilst at the same time being given the strict instruction not to venture into the realm of the wanton and carnal. That is like telling a 12 year old boy to watch the cookies cool down but not to nibble. With that in mind I will gird my loins and venture bravely forth into the culinary universe of “Hot and Wild.”
The last
WORD
with Darren Maule
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(Note to self - although Mickey Rourke and Kim Bassinger’s scene on the kitchen floor, lit by the light of a single bulb from the ajar fridge door did involve food - it must not be referenced in this piece at all!). So... Hot and Wild are two words which do seem to be inextricably intertwined. On their own they are quite innocuous. Hot could be in reference to anything from temperature to Chanel’s Spring/ Summer Collection. Wild could mean anything from the Big 5 to the behaviour on Durban’s Florida Road on a Saturday night. But it’s also all relative. Ostrich carpaccio might seem like a wildly exotic dish to you but to a husband
from Oudtshoorn – it is leftovers from his child’s birthday party. Then again there is that child in your family. You know the one. The one with tousled hair and crazy eyes who goes for 48 hours on two hours sleep and is referred to as busy... but who is actually wild! Half a teaspoon of sambal oelek might burn your face off but for the Aunty from Tongaat – it is a handy hot spike for Sambhar soup. People from Johannesburg think they understand the concept of hot summers... until they go to Durban. The same can be said of Durbanites who venture to Richards Bay. But put the two together and their union is as natural as Bangers and Mash, Ice-Cream and Chocolate Sauce, Brandy and Coke, Honey and... Oh wait, that almost went all 9½ weeks, I said I wouldn’t go there! I’m not winning with this one, I think I’ll quit whilst I’m ahead. The best suggestion I can make is that if you really, really want to experience “Hot and Wild” fully clothed - then a Vindaloo curry in the Umfolzi Game Reserve should do the trick.