+ 0 3
Valentine's & Easter Recipes
Oh Shucks casanova's secret ingredient... oysters
food & lifestyle magazine
Some Like it Hot... turn up the heat with chillies
The Remotest Distillery in the World St Helena island's unique treasures
GINJA JUNIOR SOMEBUNNY TO LOVE
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The assorted senses edition
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FEBRUARY/ MARCH 2016 South Africa R45.00 (incl.VAT) Other Countries R39.47 (excl. VAT) www.ginjafood.com
FOOD Tomatoes… The Love Apple Getting creative with a healthy and diverse fruit 14 Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Insight into the brotherhood of this global chef's association 22 Baked Apple Roses A step-by-step guide for a stunning dessert 32 Aphrodisiac foods Your guide to what’s hot and what’s not 48 Some Like it Hot Think you can handle the heat? Try these chilli recipes 50 Oh Shucks Did oysters hold the key to Casanova’s success with women? 56 The Raw Revolution The quieter revolution growing in and around the food markets 72 Garden of Easter Lungi Nhlanhla goes on a garden adventure 78 Breaking Bread Taking a look at holy and festive breads from around the world 82
DRINKS Carpe Vinum In the Pink 26 Wine with all your Senses Wine Ambassador Jane Simon talks about wine and your senses 30
Liquid Gold A look at South African brandies 64
TRAVEL The Remotest Distillery in the World A visit to St Helena Island 34 Exploring Africa Part 3: Island-style flavours in Zanzibar 60
JUNIOR Somebunny to love Valentine's and Easter treats guaranteed to increase your number of admirers 88
Chef’s note 04 On the Cover Spicy white chocolate tart 06 Contributors 08 Letters to editor 10 Back to Basics Classic salads 40 Health Matters Not tonight Josephine 46 What’s in season 43 Ask a Chef KZN Midlands Chef Alex Poltera answers your questions 68 Book review Life on a Table 94 Suss out SASSI Understanding sustainable seafood 98 Out & about 100 Ginja Cheat Sheet Edible flowers 102 Dine out Guide A guide on where to wine and dine your loved one 104 Recipe index 106 Directory 107 The Last Word Darren Maule chats about food and your senses 108
bon appétit
REGULARS
chef's note
Taste, Colour & Texture... That is what we want both in food and life. This edition will overload your senses. We celebrate the month of love in February and Easter in March. I am not considered very romantic since I consider Valentine’s Day to be a money making racket. I believe you should honour your loved one daily, not only on one day. If you see something they like and can afford it, buy it, no matter what day it is. With this in mind, I need to remind myself to do something “special” on Valentine’s Day. “I always have tomatoes in my kitchen that equates to always having something to eat. We use tomatoes in nearly everything we cook,” says Antoinette De Chavonnes Vrugt - a lady with a passion for food and for Namibia. She invites us into her kitchen, and gives us a glimpse of her life on the farm, and travelling the country. We need much more raw food in our diet. I find this a fascinating subject and invited Kelvin Appelgren to give us some insight into this style of eating. I doubt I could change my eating habits to enjoy only raw food, but there definitely is a spot on my table for these wholesome and tasty dishes. Chillies can be addictive; they send your endorphins into orbit and make you feel good about yourself, some people even have chillies for breakfast! “Some like it hot” explores the use of chillies in food. Bread is the most basic stalwart of all special occasions. Lungi Nhlanhla makes flowerpot bread and cinnamon buns, and I have a look at Easter breads and rolls – minutes on the lips, months on the hips! February and March, a devilish duo for those who made dietary New Year’s resolutions, but what the heck... if you’re blessed to have a significant other, celebrate the month of love, and indulge in some seasonal Easter fare smelling of cinnamon and citrus. Hugs & Kisses
- François
on the cover
Spicy White
chocolate tart
Makes 1 tart
powder.
Prep time: about 1 hr
2. In a food processor, put the
10 mins
flour mixture and butter, blitz
Cooking time: 25 mins
until the mixture resembles bread
INGREDIENTS
3. Stir the honey into the water,
For the base
and then add 15 ml at a time to
225 g plain flour, plus extra for
the flour mixture until the dough
crumbs.
dusting
forms a ball.
90 ml cocoa powder Pinch of salt
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. 5. Preheat the oven to 180째C. 6. On a lightly floured surface,
150 g cold butter, cubed
roll the dough out, wrap it around
60 ml honey
the rolling pin and transfer to a
5 ml chilli powder
60-75 ml cold water
30cm rectangular tart tin.
For the filling
7. Trim the excess pastry hanging
300 g white couverture chocolate
over the edges. Leaving enough to
150 ml cream
allow for shrinkage when baking.
3 green cardamom pods, cracked
Lightly prick a few holes in the base
For the salted pistachio brittle
of the tart with a fork. Do not pierce
250 ml castor sugar
right through. Freeze for 15 minutes.
60 ml water
8. Bake in the oven for about
56 g unsalted butter
20-25 minutes or until baked
80 ml golden syrup
through. Remove and transfer to
1.25 ml bicarbonate of soda
a wire rack, leave to cool.
80 g pistachios, (shells removed and roughly chopped)
filling
Sea salt flakes to taste
1. Pour the cream into a medium
For garnishing
saucepan, add the cardamom
Edible flowers
pods and bring to the boil.
Base
large mixing bowl.
2. Break the chocolate into a
1. In a large bowl, sieve the flour,
3. Strain the hot cream over the
salt, cocoa powder and chilli
chocolate, and, using a rubber
spatula, fold until the chocolate melts and the mixture is well combined.
4. Set aside until slightly cooled. brittle
1. Line a baking tray with a silicone mat and set aside until needed.
2. In a large saucepan, combine the sugar, water, butter, and syrup and bring to the boil. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the caramel is deep amber. This should take about 10 minutes.
3. Remove from the heat and add the bicarbonate of soda, carefully stirring until well-combined. Immediately pour mixture onto the baking tray then spread the brittle into a thin even layer.
4. Sprinkle with pistachio nuts before it cools down. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use. Assemble
1. Pour the ganache into the base, and spread until evenly distributed. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes or until set.
2. Break the brittle into shards, sprinkle over and decorate with edible flowers as desired.
our contributors
As a qualified Chemical Engineer, Kelvin APPELGREN’s early career was dominated by a demanding factory environment, although enjoyment of good food was never far from his mind. In 2008 Kelvin opened Caloroso CafÊ, the first shop of its kind in George to focus on speciality coffee. It was within this arena that he became exposed to what he calls the raw revolution.
Oysters R Us owners, Natasha De Freitas and Natalie Oliver, both grew up in Gauteng, and studied through Harvard. Having worked in the corporate world for over twenty years, their change in career and lifestyle was both challenging and exciting. Their enthusiasm for the business, love of oysters, and warm hospitality can be instantly felt when visiting their establishment.
A born and bred South African Midlands chef, Alex Poltera was exposed to the hospitality industry right from the word go. His family had built and started Fern Hill Hotel before he had even been born. For as long as Alex can remember, cheffing and hotel life has been hardwired into his DNA, and has formed part of who he is now.
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Also contributing to our ginja edition: john aritho, MARIO BOTHA, DARREN MAULE, LUNGI NHLANHLA, kelvin saunders AND jane simon
®
GINJA CHEF - François FERREIRA francois@ginjamedia.com MANAGING DIRECTOR - DENISE LINDLEY denise@ginjamedia.com EDITOR - SHERILEE MAASS sherilee@ginjamedia.com SUB-EDITOR - MIKE ALLEN mike@ginjamedia.com HEAD DESIGNER - KATE SCOTT design@ginjamedia.com JUNIOR DESIGNER - KERRYN DRIEMEYER kerryn@ginjamedia.com GINJA JUNIOR CHEF - JULIETTE MUDALY juliette@ginjamedia.com SALES EXECUTIVE - CLARISE SHA clarise@ginjamedia.com SALES EXECUTIVE - TANIA CRAIN tania@ginjamedia.com SALES EXECUTIVE - SORETHA CALITZ soretha@ginjamedia.com SALES EXECUTIVE - UDO SCHWENDENWEIN udo@ginjamedia.com MARKETING, SOCIAL MEDIA & DISTRIBUTION - MAGGI VAN RHYN maggi@ginjamedia.com
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dear editor LETTERS FROM OUR READERS Dear Editor,
than traditional turkey are a blessing with the heatwave we are currently
I recently purchased your magazine
experiencing in Johannesburg. I am
(December/January edition) for the
looking forward to trying many of
first time after noticing it while in a
them over the holidays and I think
slow queue at my local food retailer of
we’ll be having the cranberry chicken
choice. It stood out among the many
with the watermelon and feta salad
on offer because of its unique square
for our Christmas lunch. I hope our
shape.
lunch turns out as lovely as your photos of the recipes. On Boxing
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Day I think we will revert back to our
the paper which has a luxurious feel
own family tradition of a braai with
and the great variety of recipe options
friends.
in this edition. In our family Christmas is always a big event. The numerous
Please consider doing an article on 3D
dishes with preparation times shorter
food printing in the future.
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are well written and I love your Dine Out Guide.
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Keep up the great job you are doing.
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TOMATOES 14
Compilation and recipes by Franc存ois Ferreira Recipe images by Kelvin Saunders
the love apple
food The French call it pomme d’amour (love apple), the Italians pomodoro (golden apple), the Aztecs ‘tomatl’, but in English, it is simply tomato. Botanically, the tomato is a fruit (actually a berry), but for all practical purposes, at least in North America and Europe, cooks use it as a vegetable. This red, sometimes golden-coloured “fruit” belongs to the nightshade family and was for a long time believed to be poisonous. Although the leaves are indeed poisonous, the delicious tomato is not, and is extremely versatile. It can be used in salads, in sauces, as a garnish, fried, grilled, pickled, dried, made into a paste, canned and used as a colouring for pastas. Many South Americans regard it as the most scrumptious of all fruits and eat it with a pinch of salt. The wild tomato is indigenous to Peru and Ecuador, but the Aztecs and other Central American Indian nations were the first to cultivate it. Several strains were developed and even today, researchers develop tomatoes with different characteristics. The most notable, a few years ago, was a strain that contained in its DNA a fish gene to make it more resistant to frost. Mercifully, it never caught on.
are said to have been enjoying tomatoes without salt and pepper, and called it ‘pomodoro’. At that time, pepper was a precious commodity, and Italians might have thought the tomato not worth the expense! Mediterranean nations, Portuguese, Spaniards and Italians took to the tomato; in other countries, the plant enjoyed an ornamental status. This ignorance lasted for approximately two centuries, fuelled by the physicians of the time who were warning that tomatoes had no nutritional value and caused all kinds of diseases. Surprisingly, although the tomato is indigenous to South America, it reached North American via Europe, and was taken there by the pilgrims. It became popular in 1820 only after Colonel Robert Johnson ate a large quantity of tomatoes in front of thousands of spectators who believed he would die. Today, tomatoes are grown on all continents, and in different sizes. Cooks everywhere use them in one form or another, even in regions too cold to grow this sub-tropical and fragile plant. North Americans love the tomato and expect to find it on grocery shelves throughout the year, whereas in
When Spanish conquistadors first encountered
most other countries, it is consumed fresh in season.
tomatoes in the beginning of the 16th century
Out of season, people eat pickled tomatoes, sauce,
(1520s), they found both the taste and textural
or canned tomatoes prepared in one of many ways.
characteristics of tomato intriguing enough to take
Actually, around the Mediterranean, people rarely
the seeds back to Spain. By 1544, southern Italians
use canned foods. There is a natural resistance to
15
canned food, but gradually this aversion seems to be changing, particularly with improved quality of cans that preserve the taste better than those used in the past. The best sauce tomatoes grow just outside Naples in San Marzano. In fact, pizza sauce was invented there. To an Italian, pizza is a thin dough laced with tomato sauce, onions, basil and mozzarella, and eaten as an appetizer. American-style, thick-crust doughy pizza has been imported into Italy, and seems to be popular with American tourists who flock there by the millions every year. Once tomatoes became popular, hybridisers and plant researchers set out to ”improve” it by breeding variations in colour, size, texture, and cold resistance. Today there are thousands of varieties, but only a few have commercial value; the rest go under the
“
collective title of heirloom tomatoes. Tomatoes are by far the healthiest of the fruits and vegetables with the power to ward off some of the worst known diseases. One of the best-known tomato-eating benefits is its lycopene content.
Mediterranean nations, Portuguese, Spaniards and Italians took to the tomato; in other countries, the plant enjoyed an ornamental status.
16
food Lycopene is a vital anti-oxidant that
ZZ2 to this agricultural approach.
helps in the fight against cancerous cell
Tomato varietals produced by ZZ2:
formation as well as other kinds of health
Long Shelf Life (LSL) tomatoes which
complications and diseases.
are the normal round tomatoes used for salads and cooking. These sweet
New research is beginning to indicate
tomatoes with a hint of acidity are the
that tomatoes may also be used to
tomatoes that are the staple food of the
help prevent lung cancer. Two powerful
nation.
compounds found in tomatoes coumaric acid and chlorogenic acid
Roma tomatoes, also known as saladette
- are thought to block the effects of
or jam tomatoes, are great for sauces,
nitrosamines. These are compounds
being a little bit fleshier than the LSL
that are not only formed naturally in
tomatoes. ZZ2 has branded these
the body, but are also the strongest
tomatoes their “Italian Roma tomatoes”.
carcinogen in tobacco smoke. By blocking the effects of these
Cocktails - ZZ2’s flagship here is the
nitrosamines, the chances of lung
Romanita. It is a sweet, crunchy mini
cancer are reduced significantly.
plum tomato with an incredible shelf life. ZZ2 also grows Santé type tomatoes
The largest producer of tomatoes in
which are smaller than the Romanita and
South Africa is ZZ2. They are a farming
have been called ZZ2’s “Spanish Santé”.
conglomerate operating in Mooketsi, Politsi, Polokwane and Musina in the
These healthy and nutritious varietals
Limpopo Province, Ceres and Riebeek
are readily available and the perfect
West in the Western Cape and Langkloof
accompaniment to any meal - but not
in the Eastern Cape of South Africa.
the fruit salad!
ZZ2 produces tomatoes, onions,
Imagine a rich red, juicy, slightly sweet,
avocados, apples, pears and breed
slightly acidic tomato, and then think
cattle. Tomatoes are the main crop
what you can do with it. Most people will
with in the region of 160 000 tonnes
say make a salad, a sandwich, a pasta
being produced annually. ZZ2 is a
sauce or a bredie. Tomatoes or love
world leader in tomato production and
apples can be used for a myriad of dishes,
large-scale biological farming practices.
from preserves to a creamy soup, jam
Natuurboerdery® is the name given by
to an elegant tarte tatin. I find tomatoes
17
available in the shops sometimes taste like nothing, but leave them outside for a day or two. They will acquire that special “tomato” taste, but still, there is nothing as delicious as a ripe tomato picked fresh from the vine.
Bloody Mary
Granita EASY | Serves 6
Prep time: 15 mins Freezing time: 3-4 hrs
Ingredients 300 ml tomato juice 75 ml vodka Juice of 2 lemons 5 ml worcestershire sauce 6 ice cubes, crushed ½ green pepper, finely diced 1 celery stick plus leaves, finely chopped Celery salt and freshly ground black pepper To garnish: 6 x 10 cm cucumber sticks 6 mint, basil or watercress sprigs
1. Put the tomato juice, vodka, lemon juice, worcestershire sauce and crushed ice in a blender and blend at high speed. Add the green pepper, celery, seasoning to taste and blend until smooth.
2. Pour the mixture into a container, cover and freeze until firm, beating 3 times at 45 minute intervals.
together with 1 litre of water and half the sage
container in the refrigerator. Spoon the granita
leaves. Simmer over moderate heat for 30
into chilled martini glasses, add a cucumber stick
minutes, or until the vegetables are tender.
to look like a straw and garnish with the herb
5. Blend until smooth in a liquidiser. Check the
sprigs.
seasoning.
food
3. About 20 minutes before serving, place the
6. Fry the remaining sage leaves in the rest of
the olive oil. Pour the soup into a tureen, add the
Cream of Tomato and Sage Soup
cream and stir just until it leaves a creamy white trail on the surface, then sprinkle with the fried sage leaves.
EASY | Serves 4 Prep time: 20 mins Cooking time: 35 mins
Ingredients 4 potatoes, peeled 6 large, ripe tomatoes 1 onion, peeled 2 garlic cloves, peeled 30 ml olive oil Pinch of sugar 16 sage leaves 150 ml cream Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Cut the peeled potatoes into large cubes and set aside in a bowl of cold water.
2. Skin the tomatoes, deseed and chop coarsely. Thinly slice the onion and garlic.
3. Place half the olive oil in a saucepan and sweat the onion and garlic in the hot oil. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle over the pinch of sugar. Simmer for 5 minutes.
4. Drain the potatoes and add to the saucepan,
19
150 ml mayonnaise 150 ml sour cream 75 ml cream, whisked to soft peak 10 ml onion puree 10 ml basil pesto 30 ml lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Puree the tomatoes in a food processor. Whisk the mayonnaise and sour cream together in a bowl.
2. Fold in the cream, tomato puree, onion puree, basil pesto and lemon juice. Adjust the seasoning.
3. Spoon the mixture into a container, cover and freeze until firm. About 20 minutes before serving, remove from the freezer and put the cream in the refrigerator. Serving suggestions Spoon into hollowed out tomato shells For a retro feel, freeze the cream in a ring mould. Surround the base with sliced cucumber and add dressed salad leaves to
Frozen Tomato Cream
This dish is ideal for a starter. EASY | Serves 6 Prep time: 20 mins Freezer time: Overnight
Ingredients 500 g ripe tomatoes, skinned
20
the middle.
Tomato and Mozzarella Tarte
Tatin
EASY | Serves 6 Prep time: 30 mins Cooking time: 45 mins
1 kg jam or roma tomatoes
food
Ingredients 1 bunch of basil 30 ml olive oil 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 150 g mozzarella, sliced 5 ml dried oregano 250 g ready made puff pastry Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Skin the tomatoes, deseed and crush. Remove the leaves from the basil and shred finely.
2. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the garlic, crushed tomatoes and basil. Season with salt and pepper and cook over high heat until you have a slightly moist purée.
3. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 4. Open the packet of mozzarella, drain off the water and pat the cheese dry with kitchen paper. Cut into thick slices. Arrange the cheese slices in the base of a greased pie plate, and spread the tomato mixture on top. Sprinkle with oregano. Roll out the puff pastry to fit your pie plate and place it on top of the tomato mixture, tucking in the edges to seal.
5. Bake the tarte tatin in the preheated oven
for 25 minutes.
6. Allow to cool slightly and then unmold the
tarte by carefully turning it upside down onto a serving plate.
Extracts from Portrait of the Tomato – Catherine Quévremont, www.foodreference.com and www.zz2.co.za
21
Confrérie de la Chaîne
des Rôtisseurs
Celebrating the Art of the Table Images supplied by the Chaîne des Ro^tisseurs | Photography by Shaun Smith
22
established in 1981 in Johannesburg.
association whose focus is brotherhood,
Thereafter the Bailliage du Cap was
friendship, camaraderie and sharing a
established in 1982. Today the Bailliage
passion for the culinary arts, and is the only
National d’Afrique du Sud boasts six Bailliage
gastronomic association which welcomes
(regions), namely Du Cap, Outeniqua,
both non-professional and professional
KwaZulu Natal, Pretoria, Johannesburg and
members. The non-professional members
Lowveld. Each region is managed by a Bailli
are cherished of course, as they eat out
and a committee.
food
The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is a global
at the professional members’ hotels and restaurants! Membership status of la
The South African Chaîne Foundation,
Chaîne is recognised internationally and is
founded in 2008, established the Ikusasa
transferable worldwide.
School of Cooking, with campuses in Durban and Riebeeck West. The Ikusasa School trains
The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs was created under
disadvantaged youth as chefs in association
the 1901 French law regarding associations,
with the International Hotel School. The aim
with its International Headquarters based
is to have an Ikusasa School in each of the
in Paris. At its head is a President with a
regions.
Secretary General and a Board of Directors. The day to day running is organised by
Networking possibilities are numerous
National, Provincial and Local Bailliages. A
especially for a member who travels
National Bailliage is managed by its Bailli
frequently. Members have access to:
Délégué (National President), assisted by
• Nearly 18 000 non-professional members
a Council. Members are inducted into the
who are passionate about culinary arts and
Chaîne at Grand Chapitre gala events that are three-day social and educational events that
fine wine. • Nearly 7 000 prestigious professionals
culminate in the induction of new members.
encompassing all disciplines of culinary
Members wear ribbons at such events which
arts.
denote their level of membership, whether professional or non-professional. These designations are standard in all Bailliages worldwide. Professionals in the kitchen have orange ribbons, front of house – orange and purple; non- professionals - purple trimmed with blue.
The Chaîne Oath: I shall always honour the art of cuisine and the culture of the table, and I shall always fulfil my obligations of brotherhood and of respect for my fellow members.
• More than 200 international conference facilities, service companies and catering service specialists. • More than 200 prestigious universities, hotels and cookery schools. • More than 250 vineyards in some of the most beautiful winemaking regions and wine wholesalers.
The South African National Bailliage was
• Nearly 90 cruise lines and airline
23
food
“ Being a member of la Chaîne means you are part of a worldwide community in which you can network and build relationships –
professional or social. companies.
• Head chefs, young chefs of the future and sommeliers in more than 2 200 restaurants around the world, including famous names in the culinary world (2- and 3-stars Michelin, master craftsmen, Meilleurs Ouvriers de France). • General Managers of some 3 000 high-end establishments on five continents. • Nearly 180 private clubs. The Chaîne invests in the youth of the hospitality sector by organising the Jeunes Chef Rôtisseurs Competition (Young Chef Competition) as well as the Jeunes Sommelier Competition on regional, national and international levels. Being a member of la Chaîne means you are part of a worldwide community in which you can network and build relationships – professional or social. For more information, go to www.chainedesrotisseurs.com or www.chaine.co.za
24
Carpe Vinum wine class 2 RosĂŠ wine Words by Denise Lindley
In the
PINK
In our second Carpe Vinum Wine Class, I thought that I would write about that pink drink that most people either love or hate, but which is firmly here to stay, rosé wine. A few years ago, rosé was the poor cousin in the wine world, when it was made from blending leftover red and white wine, and tasted like sweet strawberry jam.
The previous lack of acceptance by the
drinks
“ local wine market towards rosé was probably due to a number of factors, including the
perception that real men don’t drink pink drinks.
The first wine I remember drinking when I was at college in the UK in the 70’s was the
the amount of dry, purpose made rosé’s
sweetish, sparkling Mateus Rosé, that was
have increased exponentially, while the
the cheap and cheerful drink from Portugal
demand for off dry/semi sweet has not
that first became popular just after the
grown as much at all. With only 37 blanc de
war. In the 70’s and 80’s it went on to
noirs being listed in the 2016 Platters, this
become so popular, that it accounted for a
style of wine has obviously been kicked off
huge 40% of Portugal’s total wine exports,
the top spot.
equating to 3.25 million cases! That is an enormous amount of Mateus Rosé!
A dry rosé wine is made from grapes which have been picked early and which don’t
In South Africa, Delheim Pinotage Rosé
have too much sweetness. These wines
was the popular rosé wine for many years
are made from red grapes which are then
until the Boschendal Blanc de Noir became
crushed and the skins removed when the
South Africa’s favourite pink drink.
right amount of colour has been extracted.
The first Platters Wine Guide I bought was
The inside of the red grape is actually white
in 1987 (it was first published on 1980),
(peel a red grape and see the white flesh)
which I still have, and the Delheim Pinotage
with the red colour coming from the skin.
Rosé was named the Rosé Wine of the Year,
The longer the juice is left on the skins, the
with the Boschendal winning the Blanc de
more colour is extracted. To make a rosé
Noir (white from black) accolade. In total,
the juice is left on the skins tor just a few
only 7 dry rosé’s were listed, 38 off dry/
hours, and in the case of red wine, the juice
semi sweet and 63 blanc de noirs. In the
can be left on the skins for several days.
2016 Platters, there are 268 dry rosé’s and
Currently many wine makers are using
98 off dry/semi sweet. So it is evident that
shiraz, merlot, cabernet sauvignon or our
27
drinks
“ very own grape, pinotage to purpose make our rosé’s. The previous lack of acceptance by the local wine market towards rosé was probably due to a number of factors, including the perception that real men don’t drink pink drinks. Although dry rosé wine has become a traditional European lunch time wine, most South African wine drinkers will choose to have a white wine during the midday meal instead. With a few exceptions, rosé’s are not intended to age and
A few years ago, rosé was the poor cousin in the wine world, when it was
made from blending leftover red and white wine, and
tasted like sweet strawberry jam.
should be quaffed ice cold, young and fruity.
M
Y
CM
the Haute Cabriere Chardonnay Pinot Noir which is a white wine, and
28
C
Some of our winemakers are making
the pale pink absolutely fabulous
some very interesting wines from red
Graham Beck Gorgeous (it really is
grapes, like Asara’s white cabernet
gorgeous) also a chardonnay and
sauvignon or Martin Meinert’s The
pinot noir blend, are testament to
Italian Job, a white merlot. Stephan
how far we have come in the last few
Richardson of Mellasat has been
years with our rosé’s. Mulderbosch
making a white pinotage since 2007,
makes Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé
the world’s first! Then we have had
from specially farmed vineyards
for hundreds of years the French
specifically to produce rosé fruit,
Champagnes, traditionally a blend
which produces a fresh, aromatic
made from a red grape, pinot noir,
style of rosé. We are now producing
and a white grape, chardonnay. We
rosé’s which are equal to those of
also make some lovely pink Méthode
Europe and California and
Cap Classiques, like the Louisvale
they seem to be the funkiest wines
MCC Rosé, which recently won the
around at the moment as they are
Amorim MCC Challenge. Our South
bone dry and go with almost all
African still champagne blends, like
types of food like oysters or sushi.
MY
CY
CMY
K
The theme of this edition of Ginja is assorted senses, so I have decided to write about wine “senses� - this is a very interesting topic as it is such a personal thing. Wine is made in different regions in wine growing countries around the world that show off characteristics native to the land and
WINE with all your senses Words by Jane Simon, Wine Ambassador
30
surroundings, and is made by vintners who have their own wine making style. There are a lot of influences in a glass of wine, be it soil, clones or wine making practices and these can be judged by our senses of sight, smell, taste and even sound. This can still be broken down further to sweetness, acidity, saltiness, bitterness and umami (savoury). Every one of us is unique and so, when you taste wine, you pick up different characteristics on
If you want to train yourself to know more about wine, using your senses, I suggest you taste as many wines as possible.
particular grape cultivar ordered. If the wine is tank fermented or has a wood influence, that will make a
drinks
“ difference to the colour of the wine and the ‘nose’ you receive from the wine. A lot also depends on the company you are with and when you drink wine. For instance, if you are having a lot of fun with friends and think that the palate, depending on how your taste buds
a wine is gorgeous, you might purchase it and
are trained and influenced, and also what you
drink it under different circumstances, the wine
have eaten prior to tasting the wine. (Don’t brush
could taste completely different. Your mood also
your teeth and then go to a wine tasting, as the
contributes to your senses and how you perceive
toothpaste will definitely influence your taste
the wine – again it is such a personal thing.
buds.) Wine is a topic that most people are shy to talk about and people have the perception that to
If you want to train yourself to know more about
enjoy wine and be able to talk about it, you have to
wine, using your senses, I suggest that you taste as
have in depth knowledge about wine. This is not
many wines as possible. Join a tasting group where
the case. To be able to enjoy wine, you have to like
you can see how people discuss the wines, use
it and the only way you know what a wine tastes like
their senses and from their perception, score the
is by using your senses and sampling it.
wines (that too, is very individual). You can either do a horizontal tasting where the wines are all from
Most restaurants have a house wine on their wine list
the same vintage but are from different wineries.
under the wine by the glass section. Years ago when
Keeping wine variety or type and wine region the
I sold a house wine to a restaurateur, it was a wine
same helps emphasise differences in winery styles.
that the restaurant owner chose because of the
You can also do a vertical tasting, trying different
style of food in the restaurant, the style of the wine
vintages of the same wine from the same winery.
and the quality and price point of the wine. I always
Blind tastings are also an excellent way to taste
say that a house wine must meet expectations. I
because you can have an unbiased opinion about
love to watch people order a glass of wine and see
the wine, as you can’t see the label or the estate.
their reactions on receiving it. The first thing people usually do is swirl the wine the wine in the glass and
Using your senses will definitely send you on a
smell the wine. If it delivers straight away they are
journey into the wonderful world of wine, don’t
happy, by that I mean the colour is good and the
forget to enjoy it with food, but that is a discussion
nose gives off the fruit that is expected from the
for another day.
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Baked Apple roses Stunning yet simple dessert guaranteed to impress...
MEDIUM | Makes: 6
on a lightly dusted surface,
Prep time: 20-30 mins
roll out to about ¼ cm and
Cooking time: 40-45 mins
then cut into 6 rectangular
Ingredients 2 red apples, halved
over your apple slices. (see illustration)
200 ml water
6. Spread the puff pastry
Juice of ½ a lemon
with the apricot jam. Be
45 ml apricot jam
generous!
30 ml water
7. Starting from the top, place
1 roll frozen puff pastry,
the apple slices horizontally,
thawed
overlapping each other on the
Cinnamon for added flavour
pastry. Ensure the red tops
1. Preheat the oven to
(skin) of the apple slices are peeking out.
180°C. Remove the core of
8. Sprinkle with cinnamon,
both apples and slice into
and then fold the pastry in
thin slices.
half over the apple slices.
2. In a medium size bowl, put the water, lemon juice and the apple slices.
Starting from one end, roll until it forms a rose.
9. Place into a well-greased
3. Microwave for 2-3
muffin tray and bake at
minutes, and then drain off
180°C for 40-45 minutes.
the water.
Remove and allow to cool on
4. In a small bowl, put 45
a wire rack.
ml of apricot jam add 30
10. Store in an air tight
ml of water and microwave
container and freeze if
for 1 minute. Mix until well
desired.
combined.
5. Place thawed puff pastry
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strips wide enough to fold
11. Serve with crème anglaise or custard.
33
food
The remotest
34
DISTILLERY in the world
Left page: Turks cap. this page: Diana's peak.
Exploring St. Helena and its unique bottled treasure. Words by Fran存cois Ferriera and Sherilee Maass Images supplied by Tungi Distillery and St. Helena Tourism
35
travel
Paul Hickling is a man with a vision. When talks
decides to eradicate all the plants.
about building an airport on St Helena started, he decided to build a distillery. “The idea came
This unique drink had to have a unique bottle,
about from a conversation with a friend, to make
so a special bottle was made in Italy, depicting
a drink unique to St Helena, and so ‘Tungi, the
the famous “Jacob’s Ladder” in Jamestown. This
Spirit of St Helena’ was born.”
“ladder” consists of 699 steps up the side of the valley, built in 1829 to connect Jamestown to
He did his research, went on a course in Germany
the former fort on Ladder Hill. The ladder is very
and then built a well-equipped boutique
popular with tourists, is lit at night, and a timed
distillery with the most amazing view of the
run takes place there every year, with people
ocean, right next to his house. No mean feat
coming from all over the world to take part.
as every tank, still and pipe had to be imported from all over the world. Delivered to the island by
“I originally purchased 20 000 bottles from a
the RMS St Helena, a cargo/passenger ship that
glass company in Italy, but the cost has risen
makes sure all fresh produce, equipment and
prohibitively since inception in 2006, so when
other supplies arrive safely on St Helena.
they are gone, I will revert to a stock bottle,
You may well ask what Tungi is – we would call it
available in pallets of 1 000, which will help with
witblits or maybe, at a push, Grappa made from
cash flow,” says Paul.
a prickly pear growing on the Island. The prickly pear is an invasive species and might not be
Tungi is best served ice cold and is not for the
available for long if the St Helena Government
faint hearted. It is not the only spirit produced
Paul hickling and his wife sally at the distillery.
36
“ You may well ask what Tungi is – we would call
it witblits or maybe, at a push, Grappa.
here, though. Paul expands: “We also produce a spiced rum called White Lion, named after the Dutch wreck lying in James’ Bay, the Witte Leeuw. Our coffee liqueur, Midnight Mist, is made from St Helena coffee, and our Jamestown Gin is an infused gin of which one of the ingredients is the rare Bermuda juniper that grows only in Bermuda and here on the island. The latest edition to the product range is Lemon Valley, a lemon liqueur made from lemons that also grow here. In 2009, I had the forethought to make a brandy to commemorate the exile of Napoleon Bonaparte, which meant importing chenin blanc grape juice from South Africa, making a white wine, and distilling it to make a very smoothtasting brandy, keeping it for five years in French Oak barrels. We also sell white and red wines made from imported grape juice.” Paul and his wife, Sally, are a mean team. Paul runs the distillery and Sally, a very good cook and caterer, is planning a restaurant at the distillery. The airport will be opening on St Helena Island soon, so instead of five days by sea, it will only be five hours by air to visit the remotest distillery on earth, and a very unique island.
37
This page: Sandy bay. Right page, from top to bottom: Jacob's ladder; the plantation house.
EXPLORING ST HELENA ISLAND
refreshment station for ships travelling to and from the East and remained a mere blip on the
Saint Helena Island, in the middle of the Atlantic
(non-existent) radar. That was of course until
Ocean, is one of the world's most isolated islands
Napoleon Bonaparte’s exile in 1815. These days
and obviously the first choice if you want to
all that remain are his two residences and his
quarantine a high profile prisoner like Napoleon.
gravesite, all of which can be visited on a trip to this beautiful island.
Normally access to the island was limited to the RMS St. Helena, but this little gem is worth the
There is, however, no residence on the island
boat ride, although with the new airport opening
that can quite compete with Plantation House,
it will leave you with more time to explore.
home to the Governor. Seemingly straight out
Instead of a five day trip by sea, it will be a five
of the 18th Century, the grounds are home
hour trip by air.
to land tortoises which could quite possibly include one alleged to be the world’s oldest
This quaint island was originally used as a
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living tortoise.
travel As you can imagine, the flora and fauna of Saint Helena are as unique as the island itself. Cabbage trees, gum trees and local ebony to name but a few, and the locals work hard to ensure that their native forests are restored and well maintained. High Peak and Diana’s Peak are two such native forests and can be found on their highest peaks. When it comes to the animals, there are only two to take note of, although I could live without the first one completely; the giant earwig, between 5 and 7 centimetres long. Ironically this species became extinct due to researchers collecting them all. The other, the Wirebird, a species of plover, is also Saint Helena’s national bird. Although endangered, these birds are often easy to spot without having to put in a full days hike. Admittedly, the island does not have a vast variety of foods available to let their culinary imaginations run wild, although fish is obviously
“
high on the menu. That being said, the island dish “Pilau” is delicious, and the Saint Helena fish cakes are legendary. This little island, tucked out of the way, is great for exploring. If you are one for hiking, there are the 21 Post Box Walks, a series of graded walks. Should that not sound challenging enough, there is always Jacob’s Ladder, but as a word of advice, please don’t attempt these 699 stairs if you have visited the World’s Remotest Distillery beforehand. This unique and unassuming island is about to grow wings.
One of the world's most isolated islands and obviously the first choice if you want to quarantine a high profile prisoner like Napoleon.
39
food
Back to basics
CLASSIC
salads
Words and recipes by Franc¸ois Ferreira
Waldorf Salad The Waldorf salad was created at New York's Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in 1896. However, a chef wasn’t responsible, as you might think. In fact, the maître d’hôtel, Oscar Tschirky, invented this popular salad. The original version contained only apples, celery, and mayonnaise.
A good salad is a joy to behold and
½ english cucumber, sliced
Chopped walnuts later became an
enjoy. Most menus offer a salad
250 g tomatoes, skinned and
integral part of the dish.
section, some including classics
quartered
such as Waldorf, Caesar, Niçoise
250 g mangetout or 125 g frozen
EASY | SERVES 6
and Greek. Everyone adds a twist to
peas
PREP Time: 20 mins
the salads to make it their “own”. At
250 g young green beans
CHILL Time: 30 mins
Ginja, we firmly believe that you do
1 butter lettuce
not mess with a formula that works.
4 anchovy fillets
Ingredients
Here are those classic salads in
Black olives
150 ml mayonnaise
their original form.
100 ml vinaigrette
15 ml sugar 15 ml lemon juice
Salade Niçoise
1. Boil the baby potatoes, skin on,
Good pinch of salt
in salted water until just cooked.
3 medium green apples, cored and
Allow to cool to room temperature,
sliced
EASY | SERVES 4
and then cut in half. Blanche and
250 ml sliced celery
PREP Time: 20 mins
shock the peas and beans, drain
125 ml chopped walnuts
COOKING Time: 10 mins
and allow to cool.
Ingredients
2. Wash the lettuce and arrange in
1. In a small bowl, combine the
the bottom of a large bowl. Arrange
mayonnaise, sugar, lemon juice and
2 x 225 g tins tuna chunks, drained
the tuna, cucumber, tomatoes,
salt. Mix until smooth and the sugar
and roughly broken or 350 g fresh
beans, peas, halved baby potatoes,
tuna loin seared over high heat and
anchovy fillets, eggs and olives
sliced
attractively on the lettuce and
300 g baby potatoes 3 eggs, boiled, peeled and chopped
drizzle the vinaigrette over.
3. Serve as a starter or light meal.
has dissolved.
2. In a large bowl, combine the apples and celery.
3. Pour the mayonnaise mixture over the apples and celery and toss
41
until coated.
4. Cover and chill for 30 minutes. Just before serving, toss in the walnuts.
Greek Salad
all of those flavoursome juices.
Freshly ground black pepper
Caesar Salad
1 egg 2 slices bread, cubed, crusts removed
According to Caesar Cardini’s
1 packet cos lettuce
daughter Rosa, on July 4th, 1924,
30 ml freshly grated parmesan
the salad was created on a busy
cheese
The modern version of this
weekend at Caesar's Restaurant.
timeless classic salad has lettuce
It is said that Caesar was short
1. Crush the garlic and mix with
as the basis with a few olives and
of supplies and didn't want to
the olive oil. Leave to infuse for
cubes of feta cheese.
disappoint the customers, so he
10 minutes. Place 50 ml of the
concocted this salad with what
olive oil in a liquidiser and add
EASY | SERVES 4
was on hand. To add flair to this,
the anchovy fillets, lemon juice,
PREP Time: 15 mins
he prepared it at the table. This
mustard, pepper, raw egg and
Ingredients
story is not certifiable, but it very
blend.
well could have happened. The
2. Slowly heat the remaining
4 large ripe tomatoes, cut into
salad soon became a hit and
garlic infused oil in a frying pan.
irregular wedges
clients, especially the Hollywood
When it begins to sizzle, add
1 cucumber, peeled, deseeded,
set of the 20s, came to the
the diced bread and fry, turning
then roughly chopped
restaurant just to eat the salad.
frequently until the croutons are crisp and golden brown. Lift them
½ red onion, thinly sliced 20 black olives
EASY | SERVES 4
5 ml dried oregano
PREP Time: 20 mins
100 g feta cheese, cut into
42
5 ml dijon mustard
out with a perforated spoon, drain, and allow to cool on paper towels.
3. Separate the lettuce leaves,
chunks
Ingredients
and place in a salad bowl. Drizzle
60 ml extra virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves
the dressing over the leaves and
150 ml olive oil
“roll” around in the bowl so that
Place all of the ingredients in a
4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
the dressing coats the leaves.
large bowl, season lightly, then
30 ml freshly squeezed lemon
Add the croutons and parmesan
serve with crusty bread to mop up
juice
cheese. Serve immediately.
What's in
season Here is our seasonal guide. Keeping you up to date as to what is readily available on the shelves in your local stores across South Africa. Vegetables Asparagus, beetroot, broad beans and butter beans, cabbage, leeks, sweet potatoes, spinach, sweet peppers, tomatoes, turnips. Fruits All berries, apples, figs, granadillas, grapes, mangoes, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, pomegranates, prickly pears, quinces, spanspek, watermelons. Herbs Mint, parsley, sage, thyme, marjoram, oreganum, basil, rosemary, fennel, dill, bay leaves, rocket, coriander. Available All year long . . . Bananas, butternut, carrots, cucumber, lemons, lettuce, onions, pineapples, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, squash, sweet potatoes.
ginja advertorial
RECIPE BY GINJA JUNIOR CHEF, JULIETTE MUDALY
#bakehappy
Health matters:
NOT TONIGHT JOSEPHINE ... Words by Mario Botha
functions (such as bone density, etc.)?
In my opinion, your doctor should decide
4. How long will the HRT continue?
(in consultation with you, the parents) if
It is important to note that your doctor will
this is the best solution for your daughter.
only prescribe this for you if the benefits
FAQ’s on the correct and efficient use of
outweigh the risks.
the pill. 1. Do you have troubled skin?
Erectile Dysfunction (ED) Medication:
2. Have you picked up, or lost, weight?
This class of medicine, only available by
3. Is your menstrual cycle controlled by
doctors’ prescription, is almost exclusively
this, or not?
Standing behind the counter in the
prescribed for men. Although, they are
4. Were there any other anatomical
pharmacy, I am confronted by tons
sometimes prescribed for woman, when
changes that your doctor needs to know
of hormone replacement therapies,
vasodilatation (widening of veins) for
about?
erectile dysfunction medicines and oral
surgical procedures is required.
5. What other medication will reduce the
contraceptives.
If you or your partner are being affected by
efficacy of “the pill”?
All of the above are (or will someday be)
ED, see your doctor.
part of your sexual health and lifestyle.
Remember, sexual health is probably the
* Factual accuracy is a general overview only. Discuss
most important building block for a good
any decision you want to make with a healthcare worker.
Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT):
relationship (and a great life).
These are normally prescribed by your
46
doctor if your blood levels of certain
Oral contraception (known as “the
hormones are below normal values.
pill”):
FAQ’s:
In the pharmacy, I almost always have to
1. Did your doctor prescribe this after a full
answer the same questions (especially
blood count?
from parents):
2. Are you prone to cancer (breast cancer
Will this make her fat?
in particular) and were you screened for
Do they really prescribe this for her teenage
cancer prior to HRT?
skin?...but doesn’t it then give her the
3. Will HRT affect or enhance bodily
greenlight for sex?
HEALTH TIP: A natural way to treat menopausal hot flushes – increase your vitamin E intake! Excellent sources of vitamin E are leafy greens, tropical fruits and nuts. Adding them together makes a mouth-watering salad.
www.ilove2bake.co.za
aphrodisiac
foods
Freshly picked strawberries, dipped in chocolate, covered in whipped cream and the mind tends to drift towards candlelit dinners - for those with romantic tendencies. There are, of course, the skeptics out there that don’t feel a meal prepared in the right way, on the right day, could possibly be any different from a meal prepared on any other given day. This could not be further from the truth. The acronym K.I.S.S. (excuse the pun) is possibly the most appropriate for this time of year; Keep It Simple (Stupid). Create simple dishes that enhance their already advantageous properties and enjoy the experience with the one you love. Give them the gift of your time, effort and consideration, and your meal could be the catalyst for many good things to come. In the words of Virginia Wolfe, “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well”. Involve all of your senses when creating a meal for your partner. Touch and feel the ingredients, smell their fragrant odours, watch the colours change as they cook, and feel the steam rising from the food as you turn up the heat. This all culminates when the meal is finally laid before you and the moment comes when you taste that which you have created for your loved one.
48
Scan the QR Code for the recipe or visit www.ginjafood.com
Scientifically there are vitamins and minerals that can contribute towards your “happy hormones”, and we have searched high and low to find you a selection of some of the best and the worst to have on your shopping list.
HOT OR NOT Hot CHILLIES – Is it just me or is it getting hot in here? AVOCADOS - Rock out with your guac out BANANAS - I find you very a-peeling CHOCOLATE- Chocolate is the answer, I don’t care what the question is OYSTERS - Get shucking Pomegranates – It’s what’s on the inside that counts Watermelon - Ya’ll gonna make me lose my rind
Not Microwave popcorn – Not quite the pop you were looking for Soy – I’m soy not into you Alcohol – I don’t think I’ll alcohol you later Coffee - One way to bring things to a grinding halt Corn flakes - Just kidding. Rumour has it that the inventor thought it would be the key to keeping down the urges Mint - Lack of encourage-mint Liquorice - It’s all sorts of dark and twisted
50
Some like it hot...
Words and recipes by Franc¸ois Ferreira | Recipe photography by Kelvin Saunders
Chillies have long been regarded
can measure up to 300 000 units.
as a powerful aphrodisiac. They are
There is also the simple 1 to 10
also known as a pain reliever, a cure
scale, 1 being mild and 10 being
for the common cold and even a
the hottest.
guardian against evil spirits. CHILLI VARIETIES Chillies come in an array of vibrant
Thai Dragon – Curved shape, starts
colours, but beware, even though
out green and turns red.
they might be pretty, they are really
Cayenne – Most commonly grown
hot stuff and very addictive.
in South Africa, used for chilli powders.
The chilli pepper has a dual culinary
Jalapeno – Plump chilli that starts
personality. Used fresh, it is a
off green, ripening into yellow/
vegetable (or to be more precise, a
orange and then a deep red.
fruit). In its dry form, it is a spice. As
Habanero – Infamous for their
a member of the capsicum family,
heat, a bell-shaped, green fruit that
it is the fiery cousin of the sweet
ripens to red, orange or yellow.
bell pepper and the relatively mild
Serrano – Dark green chilli that
paprika pepper. It shares the same
ripens to a vibrant red.
name as black pepper but it is not,
Inferno – Large lime green chillies
in fact, related.
which turn orange and red when ripe. Good size for chilli poppers.
The heat of the chilli is measured
African Bird’s Eye – A small fruit
on the Scoville scale. William
that starts out green and then
Scoville was a chemist who
turns bright red. Great for making
experimented with capsaicin, the
peri-peri sauce.
heat source of the chilli. In Scoville
Bishop’s Crown – Distinctive
heat units, a mild chilli measures
shape that starts out green and
about 1000, while a very hot
matures through a bright orange to
variety like the African Bird’s Eye
a vibrant red.
HEAT SCALE OF CHILLIES 9 7
JALAPENO
5
BISHOP'S CROWN
3
10
HABENERO & AFRICAN BIRD'S EYE
8
THAI DRAGAN & CAYENNE
6
SERRANO & INFERNO
4 2
1
51
food
Thai-Style
Marinated Fish
with fresh coriander leaves or chilli flowers.
Easy | Serves 6 AS A STARTER PREP time: OVERNIGHT Rating: Not too hot
Ingredients
Red Pork Chilli
500 g hake or kingklip
LITTLE EFFORT | Serves 4
200 ml lemon juice
PREP time: 20 MINS
Salt and pepper to taste
COOKING TIME: 45 MINS
5 ml sugar 3 tomatoes, diced 1 small cucumber, peeled and diced
RATING: HOT
15 ml chopped chives
Ingredients
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and
1 medium onion, chopped
finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
100 ml coconut milk
1 large sweet red pepper, deseeded
Butter lettuce leaves for the salad
and chopped 3 red chillies, chopped, seeds
thai-style marinated fish
1. Cut the fish into narrow strips and
included
put in a bowl – preferably glass or
5 ml chilli powder
ceramic. Pour over the lemon juice
5 ml paprika
to cover and add the salt, pepper
5 ml ground coriander
and sugar. Cover and chill overnight.
5 ml ground cumin
2. Drain the fish and mix with the
5 ml dried basil
tomatoes, cucumber, chives and
5 ml dried oregano
chilli. Carefully stir in the coconut
30 ml chopped parsley
milk and adjust the seasoning.
250 ml beer
3. Arrange the lettuce in a large
52
60 ml oil
bowl or individual dishes. Pile the
500 g pork neck, deboned and
fish mixture on top and garnish
cubed
“ A pain reliever, a cure for the common cold and even a guardian against evil spirits. 1 tin tomatoes 375 ml water Salt and black pepper to taste
1. Put the first 11 ingredients in a food processor and add 125 ml beer. Blend to a puree and set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan. Fry the pork in two batches until sealed on all sides. Add the spice puree and fry over a medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Add the remaining 125 ml beer, tomatoes, water, salt and pepper. Bring to the boil and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes until the pork is tender and the sauce has thickened.
3. Serve the pork chilli with rice, guacamole, shredded lettuce and grated cheese. red pork chilli
53
Piri Piri
1. Mix the oil, coconut milk,
Chicken
parsley, chilli powder, garlic, ground black pepper and salt
This is ideal for a braai.
chicken guns in it for at least 2
together and marinate the hours at room temperature, or
EASY | Serves 6
overnight in the refrigerator.
PREP time: 2 HRS OR
2. Grill or braai the chicken for
OVERNIGHT
about 15 minutes on each side.
COOKING TIME: 45 MINS
Use the marinade as a basting sauce.
RATING: HOT
PIRI PIRI CHICKEN
Ingredients
1. Heat the butter in a saucepan
90 ml oil
and gently fry the onion and garlic
250 ml coconut milk
until it starts to change colour.
10 ml parsley, finely chopped
Stir in the paprika, chilli powder
10 ml chilli powder
and fresh chillies. Fry for about
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 minutes. Add the coconut milk
Large pinch ground black pepper
and bring the sauce to the boil,
2.5 ml salt
stirring constantly to prevent
6 chicken guns (combined thigh
curdling. Stir in the parsley,
and leg)
season to taste and simmer
For the sauce
uncovered for 5 minutes until the
25 g butter
sauce has thickened.
1 small onion, finely chopped
2. Serve with rice or baked
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
sweet potato with the sauce in a
5 ml paprika
separate bowl.
2.5 ml chilli powder 2 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped 250 ml coconut milk 30 ml parsley, finely chopped Salt and black pepper to taste
18
SAUCE
Words by Oysters R US
OH
shucks
56
permit holders along the Garden Route
Oysters are highly nutritious, and by
very similar in taste, the cultivated
eating four medium oysters a day, you will
oyster has a slightly softer texture than
get the daily recommended allowance
the wild oyster.
food
It is believed that Casanova ate over 50 raw oysters a day which was reputed to be the key to his success with women. Is there truth behind the myth of “oysters and libido”?
coastline, which are harvested straight off the rocks, and come in a variety of shapes. The cultivated oysters, on the other hand, are sourced from oyster farms along the West Coast, that are grown in a controlled sea environment, and which all look uniform. Although
of calcium, iodine, iron, magnesium, manganese, copper, phosphorous and
Enjoyed as a gourmet delicacy
zinc. Oysters are also rich in vitamin A, C,
world wide, oysters taste differently
D, B-12 and omega-3 fatty acids. Due
depending on where they are grown,
to the high amounts of amino acids,
or the conditions that they are grown
magnesium and vitamins (which affects
in. Described as sweet, buttery or
your “feel good” hormones) in each
creamy, South African oysters are
oyster, and the high levels of zinc (which has an influence on your energy levels), they leave you feeling good.
“
briny (salty), and can be eaten in a variety of ways - raw, grilled, steamed, baked, boiled, braaied, poached or smoked. The most common way they
Oysters R Us is a rustic eatery that specialises in guess what, oysters.
are enjoyed in South Africa, is raw with
And are situated on the Garden Route, between Sedgefield and Wilderness. Their advanced tank system regulates the water temperature in order to keep up to 4000 oysters alive. In order to release this delicacy from it’s shell, one has to “shuck” them, which is the term for the method by which the oyster is loosened from the shell. Oysters R Us source their wild oysters (Cape Rock oysters) from commercial
Enjoyed as a gourmet delicacy world wide,
oysters taste differently depending on where they are grown, or the conditions that they are grown in.
57
food
Tabasco sauce, ground black pepper and freshly squeezed lemon. Oysters R Us have come up with some interesting alternative combinations for serving the oysters, which include horseradish, chilli, teriyaki sauce, pickled ginger, and red onions to name but a few, all of which are a must try for all oyster enthusiasts. People with low immune systems should not eat raw oysters as they do contain bacteria.
DID YOU KNOW... - Oysters have hearts that pump translucent blood as well as oxygen through their bodies. - Oysters feed mainly on plankton and can filter up to 120 litres of water per day. - Oysters have the ability to change their sex. Oyster larvae (baby oysters) are called “spats�. - Oysters are molluscs that are found mainly in the ocean. There are over fifty species of oysters, of which some are edible. Their shells are made of calcium, and this protects their soft bodies.
Oysters are generally best paired with dry white wines like sauvignon blanc, chardonnay or brut bubbly, and even dry malt beers. One of the most frequently asked questions concerning oysters, is how often pearls are found inside the shell. On average, they usually occur about one pearl out of a thousand oysters. Pearls are formed when a foreign substance (like a grain of sand or piece of shell) gets trapped within the oyster shell. The oyster then covers the foreign matter with layers of calcium and protein, and with time, a pearl is created. A study carried out between American and Italian researchers found that due to the increased levels of amino acids in the blood after consuming oysters, a consequence can lead to increased levels of libido.
58
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59
3.
exploring africa
Zanzibar Island-style flavours with John Aritho.
ZANZIBAR
Zan-zee-bar... just the name conjures
duration of my stay.
up memories of idyllic holidays. Swaying palm trees, lazing in hammocks over
The airport is tiny by any standard and the
ash white sands which leads down to a
process is fast and painless, with everyone
turquoise sea. With a long coconut based
looking cheerful and relaxed in a way that
cocktail to wash down a sumptuous feast
only Island inhabitants do best.
of seafood laced with exotic flavours. Zanzibar is called the ‘Spice Island’ for Your vision is probably right and to the
a good reason as the food has a great
point indeed as Zanzibar is a tropical island
history dating back to the Omani Empire
off the East African country of Tanzania.
when cloves played a vital part in the trading scene for the Indians, Arabs and
Zanzibar forms part of the United
Portuguese. There are glorious tours
Republic of Tanzania and is one of
available that take one on a sensory
the islands that constitute the Pemba
journey of the island.
and Mafia Islands (yes, Mafia but little connection to the infamous Italians).
Stone Town, as it is known, is the best place to start the culinary journey, as
The little 6-seater plane that I boarded in
this UNESCO Heritage site that boasts
Dar es Salaam floats in the air and I peer
stunning Omani-Arab architecture is
through the small windows at the azure
probably Africa’s best example of living
sea streaked with pure turquoise colours
history, with beautiful smells coming
that just scream – PARADISE!
from the narrow streets where the local populace and some well-designed
The tone of the engine changes slightly
boutique hotels co-exist.
as the sight of glistening tin roofs amidst beautiful greenery formed by thousands
One of my tastiest eats in Stone Town
of coconut trees appears on the horizon.
is ‘visheti’ (sweet diamonds) which resemble mini doughnuts with a tangy
As we approach the airport, I cannot
sugar coating that is delectable.
stop thinking of the coconut and prawn feast that awaits me and, as the Cessna
No feast in Zanzibar is complete without
touches down with a screech of rubber,
the beautiful biryani and I have to say
my mind is tossing around ideas of where
that the Zanzibari way of making biryani
to find the best Zanzibari food for the
is as close to perfect as can be.
61
VISHETI
completely dissolves.
Ingredients
and allow it to simmer until the froth
15 ml vegetable oil
2. Lower the heat to a medium low disappears.
120 g plain flour
3. Dunk the cooled dry ‘visheti’ in
80 ml milk, lukewarm
the warm syrup stirring with wooden
5 ml grated nutmeg 5 ml cardamom powder Vegetable oil, for frying
spatula until completely covered.
4. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool.
Icing sugar, for garnish
5. Dust with icing sugar before
For the sugar coating syrup
completely cooled.
500 ml water 250 ml sugar 1 pinch saffron
1. In a large saucepan boil the oil then stir in the flour.
2. Add the warm milk then mix in the nutmeg and cardamom.
KUKU WA KUPAKA Ingredients 1 whole chicken, skinned and cut into quarters
3. Remove the dough and keep in
3 garlic cloves, minced
a warm place for about 10 minutes.
15 ml ginger, minced
Roll and shape into sausage like
3 red chillies, crushed
pieces, then cut into diamond-like
15 ml lemon juice
shapes. About 2.5 to 4cm long.
Salt and freshly ground pepper to
4. In a wok or deep pan, over high
taste
heat, heat the vegetable oil then add
15 ml olive oil
a handful of the diamonds and fry
Medium onion, finely chopped
until golden brown.
2 tomatoes, peeled and finely
5. With a slotted spoon, remove the
chopped (see Chef's tip)
diamonds and place on paper towel
6 medium potatoes, peeled, and cut
to drain excess oil.
into quarters 2.5 ml turmeric
SUGAR COATING SYRUP
1. In a small sauce pan, over medium
70
400 ml warm water 1 tin coconut milk
high heat, heat the water, sugar and
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
pinch of saffron. Stir until the sugar
Chopped coriander for garnish
1. Cut the chicken pieces smaller and place in a large mixing bowl, mix in the garlic, ginger, chillies, salt, pepper and lemon juice, and marinate for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.
2. Heat the oil, and fry the onions until golden, add the chicken and seal on all sides, this should take about 10 minutes, add the marinade mix.
3. Add the tomatoes, and mix well. 4. Stir in the potatoes and cook for an additional 5 minutes.
5. Add turmeric, cook for a few minutes to release flavours.
6. Add the water and cook for 20 minutes then add the coconut milk and let it simmer for about 10
be honest and say that one needs to
minutes.
have a tolerant stomach to eat some of
7. Adjust seasoning. Garnish with
the delicacies on offer.
roughly chopped coriander,
8. Serve with rice or Mkate wa
As I sit in the bar ‘Mercury’, named
kumimina (a local rice bread made
after Zanzibar’s most famous son, 80’s
with coconut milk).
star and Queen’s lead singer – Freddie Mercury, the gentle waves lap the
CHEF’S TIP
side of the jetty. The young energetic
To peel tomatoes, place in boiling hot
crowd sways to the beat of an exotic
water, for a few moments, until the
island melody and I find myself wishing
skin wrinkles. It is then far easier to
that I would never have to leave this
remove.
beautiful ‘Spice Island’.
A place not to be missed is the famous
But alas it is time to start thinking
night market ‘Forodhani’ which comes
about my next food adventure as we
to life on the edge of Stone Town, a
travel northwards to a country filled
true feast of all senses and food from
with extreme hidden beauty, history
the Island. It is a celebration of all
and possibly one of the world’s finest
things of Zanzibar although I have to
understated cuisines – Ethiopia...
63
drinks
Liquid GOLD Images supplied by the SA Brandy Foundation
64
Brandy has been made in our country for more than three and a half centuries, and today South Africa is the fifth largest producer of brandy in the world.
and the rising number of international awards for excellence, shows just how well they are rated. In the last 16 years of the International Wine and Spirit Competition, South African brandies have won the Trophy for Worldwide Brandy no fewer than 14 times.
According to the history books, the first brandy distillation took place in the Cape
Made entirely from South African grapes,
in 1672 when an assistant cook on board
these brandies are crafted in a range of
a Dutch ship, De Pijl, at anchor in Table
styles to suit a variety of palates. From
Bay, distilled about 1000 litres of Cape
herbs and hay which are distinctive in
wine into 130 litres of brandy. It seems
younger brandies, to traces of dried
that the cook did a roaring trade selling his
peaches, figs, apples, citrus, Christmas
brandy to bars whose owners apparently
cake, oak and cigar box in those matured
accepted even items of clothing as
up to 20 years.
payment from patrons desperate for a tot. The word “brandy” comes from the From these humble beginnings, South
Dutch word brandewijn, literally meaning
African brandy producers went from
“burnt” or “distilled” wine. Brandy is the
strength to strength. Today the majority of
only alcoholic drink made from another
brandy is consumed locally, but as more
alcoholic drink, namely wine. Brandy is the
and more foreign visitors are exposed to our
distillate of the fermented juice of grapes.
brandies, the demand for export has grown.
It contains no other spirit product.
The extremely exacting production
There are two ways of distilling, namely
regulations and quality standards of the
potstill or column still. Potstill is a batch
South African industry make the South
process and column still is a continuous
“
African brandies very attractive
distillation. In South Africa the spirit
to connoisseurs worldwide
must, by law, be aged in French oak for
Claret is the liquor for boys; port, for men; but he who aspires to be a hero, must drink brandy. – Samuel Johnson, English poet, critic and writer, 1709 – 1784
65
drinks
“ We have been taught from childhood to regard a good brandy as the best and most perfect product of
the vine, and therefore as the crowning achievement of the wine farmer.
– C Louis Leipoldt, South African poet, medical doctor, botanist and amateur chef, 1880 – 1947
66
a minimum of three years. Lastly, it is
maturation. Potstill brandy is generally
blended according to the brandy master’s
enjoyed neat, with a dash of mineral water
special recipe and bottled for resale.
or with a block of ice. It must contain a minimum of 90% potstill brandy, matured
There are three styles of brandy:
for at least three years, and no more than
Blended standard brandy: This style is not
10% unmatured wine spirits and is bottled
as flavoured as a potstill brandy and can
at 38% ABV.
be served cold with mixers – which makes it very popular in South Africa. A blended
Brandy is not a cognac, as the term
brandy is a blend made of 30% potstill
cognac is reserved exclusively for brandies
brandy, aged for a minimum of three years,
produced in the Cognac region of south-
and 70% unmatured wine spirit produced
west France. As with South African potstill
in a column still. It is bottled at 43% ABV
brandies, cognacs are produced using a
(alcohol by volume) for the South African
double distillation in copper pot stills and
market and 40% ABV for export.
are aged for at least 30 months, although more often between five and 20 years at
Vintage brandy: This brandy has a
the time of bottling.
distinctive wood maturation character when compared with potstill and blended
In The Devil’s Dictionary Ambrose Pierce
brandy. It contains a minimum of 30%
describes brandy as follows:
potstill brandy, matured for at least eight
A cordial composed of:
years, a maximum of 60% column still
one part thunder-and-lightning,
spirit, matured for at least eight years,
one part remorse,
and a maximum of 10% unmatured wine
two parts bloody murder,
spirits. It is generally served neat, over
one part death-hell-and-the-grave, and
ice or with a dash of water. It is bottled at
four parts ... clarified ... Satan.
38% ABV. The age listed on the label of the bottle will refer to the vintage of the
If that is so, then a large portion of South
youngest component in the vintage blend,
Africans must be sinners!
which is generally the largest portion. Potstill brandy: This is the richest and most layered brandy of the three types. Its complexity comes from the rich, fruity aromas concentrated during the potstill distillation and the spicy, vanilla and woody bouquet obtained during wood
Sources: Fire Water – by South African Brandy Foundation; www.sabrandy.co.za
67
Alex Poltera Images supplied
ask a
chef Chef Alex Poltera from Fern Hill Hotel in the KZN Midlands answers our readers questions and shares a delicious family favourite cheesecake.
Q: What icing could I prepare that can be stored at room temperature?- Simangele Xhosa A: Well, there’s obviously royal icing and glacé icing (which need to be immediately covered with plastic wrap or dampened parchment paper to avoid drying out) and plastic icing which can be stored in an airtight container. For a buttercream style icing, a mixture of white margarine (like Wooden Spoon) with powdered sugar will last, for a while, at room temperature. The ingredient amounts are: 450 g icing sugar, ¼ Tbsp cream of tartar, 280 g white margarine, a pinch of salt and 1 Tbsp extract of your choice. Whip it up and add about ¾ cup water to make the consistency creamy
68
Q: To prevent my fruits and vegetables from going
food
and ‘spreadable’. Keep in an airtight container
bad, what is the best way to store them? Q: What is the best way to store fish? - Tracey Donalds
- Lucelle Paddayachee
A: Frozen fish – in the freezer. Fresh fish – in the fridge or,
A: With fruit, I recommend making a solution of white
if whole, on crushed ice.
spirit vinegar and water in your kitchen sink or a large bowl. Leave the fruit in it for about 10 minutes and then
Q: Does salting eggplant add sodium to the recipe?
store in the fridge. This generally extends their shelf
- Timothy Kane
life by removing any bacteria. If leaving fruit at room
A: Well, yes. Salt is probably our highest contributor to
temperature, make sure it is in a cool dry area. With
our daily sodium intake. Salting eggplant is a method
vegetables, try to buy only what’s necessary for a few
used to remove bitterness from the seeds of larger,
days and be sure to rotate the contents of your fridge
older eggplants by basically removing the liquid in the
by using the ‘First in, First out’ method. Vegetables
seeds (degorging). The salt can be washed off after
need good ventilation too, so remove them from cling-
salting but a fair amount will always have sunk in. To
wrapped punnets or plastic wrappers (unless they’re
avoid the necessity to salt eggplant, buy young, smaller
perforated, those generally do the trick). Look online for
eggplant, these do not require the salting step as they
more specifics for different vegetables and fruit.
contain less seeds equalling less bitterness. Follow Chef Alex Poltera on twitter @alexpoltera. Q: When I sauté mushrooms, they get all watery and lose their flavour, what could I do to avoid that?
Do you have a question that you have always wanted
- Richard Grant
to ask a chef? you can look forward to having
A: To reduce the amount of water loss from the
your questions, flops and wives' tale mysteries,
mushroom, make sure your pan is very hot and contains
answered by a professional Chef. Send your
enough hot butter or oil of your choice to effectively
question to press@ginjamedia.com and you could
seal the outside of the mushroom when it hits the
win if published.
pan. This will lock in the flavour and moisture and the browning will add flavour as well. Don’t overload the pan, rather do small batches and be sure not to cook them for too long. Q: What dishes can I prepare with ripe bananas? - Musi Nxele A: Ripe bananas mostly work best in sweet applications such as milkshakes, muffins, flapjacks, banana bread, cake, cookies etc.
69
Chef Alex Poltera shares one of his familys delicious pudding recipes.
Ingredients For the biscuit base 1 pack of chocolate digestive biscuits 100 g hazelnuts (with the skins on)
BRANDY ALEXANDER CHEESECAKE
with Summer Fruits
75 g melted butter For the cheesecake 250 g Philadelphia cream cheese 250 g crème fraîche 100 g icing sugar 1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla paste 200 ml whipping cream 1 Tbsp (15 ml) gelatine powder
EASY | serves 6-8
3 Tbsps (45 ml) strong coffee
Prep Time: 30 MINs
3 egg whites
SETTING Time: 4 HRS
For the topping 1 cup (250 ml) cream
This recipe is a very special one. Every
1 Tbsp (15 ml) espresso or strong coffee
special occasion (after my childhood)
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Kahlua liqueur
my mother would make this cake for me.
1 Tbsp (15 ml) brandy
It was always eagerly anticipated after
(or more if you’d prefer)
a birthday meal or celebration.
2 Tbsps (30 ml) icing sugar
Based on the flavours of the classic
BISCUIT BASE
popular in the early 20th century, this
1. Pre-heat your oven to 180˚C. 2. Toast the hazelnuts in the oven
cheesecake really is a crowd pleaser
until fragrant. Remove, and place in a
and a trip down memory lane to when
dry dish towel. Rub them together to
creamy alcoholic cocktails were the
remove the outer skins. *The flavour of
‘thing’. I choose to make it a little less
hazelnuts with the skin on is better and
sweet than most would prefer, but play
more intense than the blanched ones.
around with the quantity of sugar and
Most of the flavour sits right under the
taste before allowing it to set to find
skin hence I prefer them to the more
your preference.
convenient option.
Brandy Alexander cocktail which was
food
“ 3. Blitz the hazelnuts and biscuits in a
6. Pour the mixture into the tin with the
food processor and add the melted butter
biscuit base. Smooth the top with a palette
to make a dense paste.
knife and place in the refrigerator covered
4. Line the base of a 20cm tart ring with
to set.
the biscuit mix and refrigerate. FOR THE TOPPING CHEESECAKE
1. Soften the cream cheese and crème
1. Mix all the ingredients together and
allow to stand for about an hour.
fraîche with a spatula in a bowl. Add the
2. Pour into a stand mixer and whip until
icing sugar and vanilla and mix thoroughly.
thickened. Pour over the set cheesecake
2. Add the gelatine to the cold coffee and
and smooth out.
leave to soften.
3. Place back in the fridge to firm up.
cheese mixture.
TO SERVE
heat in a saucepan to allow it to dissolve.
the ring, glaze with chocolate ganache or
Do not let it boil. Add to the main mixture
leave plain.
3. Whip the cream until stiff and fold into 4. Heat the coffee and gelatine over a low
and mix in well with a whisk.
5. Beat the egg whites to form a stiff
1. Before removing the cheesecake from 2. Remove and garnish with
chocolate shards, fresh berries and mint.
peak and fold into the mixture carefully maintaining the air bubbles as much as
Can last in the fridge for a couple
possible.
of days.
Based on the flavours of the classic Brandy Alexander cocktail which
was popular in the early 20th century, this cheesecake really is a crowd pleaser.
71
food
the raw While Banting may be the current
Words by Kelvin Appelgren Recipe by Franc¸ois Ferriera
revolution your food.
buzz around the industry, a quieter
After choosing the Thai inspired salad, I sat down in the simple
revolution has been growing in
While the trend in raw cuisine is not
surrounds in the rear corner of
and around the food markets.
new, it has gained fervent popularity
the shop, happily secreted from
One that may even be considered
and whether armed with an
the public eye. It was delicious,
somewhat fringe and possibly
inventory of equipment less familiar
very much more so in fact than I
labelled nouveaux hippy, drawing
to the raw novice, such as the
expected. Crisp, fresh ingredients
merely a sidelong glance on the
dehydrator and spiralizer, or merely
combined with just the right
cookery bookshelves. In an industry
the more ubiquitous potato peeler, a
complexity of spicy flavour and tang
dominated by sophistication
wealth of delicious, nutritious meals
of lime, won me over. My appetite
in cooking food and complex
can be prepared.
not quite satisfied, I sought out the
seasoning, it may seem almost
aforesaid quiche, selecting it as my
whimsical to include an article on
My first exposure to raw food was
main course even though it was
raw and minimally processed food.
at a local health shop in George that
rather diminutive in size. Rather than
offered not only the typical fare
traditional pastry, the base was made
For the palate jaded by flavour
of veggie juice blends, (albeit with
of a pressed disk of sprouted wheat,
intensity, it may come in a wonder
somewhat more adventurous pairing
known as Essene bread. The topping
filled moment of surprised
combinations) but something
was a moist melange of dehydrated,
appreciation, that simply using raw
even more intriguing, a raw food
raw bell peppers and onion,
ingredients can yield not only a
“quiche”. I was perplexed, how does
something I advanced to my mouth
creative appeal, but also complex
a vegan offering include a quiche?
with trepidation, mentally rejecting
taste and a variety of textures.
A chocolate “cake” that in no way
the notion of uncooked onion. My
Moreover to many it is an extension
resembled the conventional bakery
concerns unfounded, the flavours
of the principle which Hippocrates
style, its gleaming texture, simply
combined well and the onion had
taught, over 2000 years ago, let food
garnished with flaked almonds,
no hint of rawness. I was on a roll,
be your medicine and medicine be
hardly glamorous.
enjoying the interesting experience
73
food
with my juice blend and very strongly
foods retain them, naturally.
contemplating dessert. Sadly, neither
that there is little scientific research to
my time nor budget allowed for
In all honesty, it did not take much
support it, anecdotal evidence world-
further indulgence and so, I paid up
of a leap for me to adopt meals of
wide supports how our health is kept
and left, anticipating returning in the
the raw food variety into my mostly
in far better condition by avoiding
foreseeable future.
vegetarian diet (I do eat chicken
excessive consumption of heavily
and fish), however the chasm may
processed mass-market offerings.
South African shelves have become
be a little too broad for some of my
Without resorting to medical
a trove of culinary variety and health
admittedly carnivorous friends. For
extremes, chronically and terminally
shops are now frequent stockists of a
many who remain in the paradigm
ill people from life’s broad spectrum
generous range of less conventional
of traditional food preparation, the
have regained their health, in large
ingredients, albeit quite often at
idea of vegetarian food conjures up
part from nutritionally sound lifestyle
(g)astronomical prices. In an attempt
rather boring salads and meatless
changes.
to not only retain health giving
substitutes of soya and tofu. Raising
properties in food, but also introduce
objection to even calling it food,
My personal curiosity and appetite
flavour variety, raw foodies have
relegating it to something even their
satisfied, this new gastronomy needed
become ingenious in the use of not
dogs would cringe at!
further research. Pinterest offered a
only the exotic but the mundane of the food world.
plethora of neat styling and the net Raw food uncompromisingly
at large opened my eyes to an almost
boasts no need for artificial flavour
radical shift to eating raw. Apart from
While much can be said for cooking,
enhancers, preservatives or texture
juices, smoothies and nut milks, there
making some ingredients not only
improvers. There is a massive body of
are nondairy icecreams, honeyed
palatable but more digestible, the
research pointing to the ill effects on
cookies, raw cacao chocolates,
premise of the raw food movement
health that these foreign chemicals
canapés and wheat free noodles. In
is that, with little processing and no
have on our bodies. Refined sugars
fact, raw food cuisine is by its very
extreme of heat, valuable vitamins
and table salt have demonstrable
nature, rich in beneficial fats, low in
and enzymes are retained. These
links to a huge range of lifestyle
grain carbs and frankly, quite Banting
heat sensitive components of food
diseases plaguing modern society.
friendly!
are in a large part responsible for
And while a beautifully prepared
enabling correct body function. They
restaurant meal can continue to be a
I realise that the raw food movement
are oft times conspicuously missing
treat on occasion, raw food meals can
borrows many foodie terms, albeit
in a world dominated by exceedingly
offer our bodies true sustenance on a
with some license. In the mind of the
refined, and chemical laden foods.
daily basis.
uninitiated, a little openness to this
While the snack and fast “food”
74
and health, and corporate shills argue
concept of borrowed terms should
industry boasts the addition of
While industry nay-sayers all but
not be considered subterfuge, but
artificial vitamins and minerals, whole
condemn the link between nutrition
merely a means of promoting some
“ level of acceptability amongst food traditionalists. Whilst to many, chocolate cake conjures up layers of fluffy textured sponge, coated with rich and buttery frosting, to the raw food chef it has a different meaning. A quiche is a quiche you might say, however let us bend the naming convention a little just for the sake of good will, if nothing else. Preparing raw food can be expensive if leaning to some of the more ambitious recipes, however it can also prove to be less so if one considers it more holistically. For some It may be challenging to sustain an exclusively raw food lifestyle indefinitely, however it need not be prohibitive to the grocery budget, or unreasonable to adopt it in some proportion. Many ingredients are cheaply available and, in order to reduce costs, can be grown and prepared at home. Fruits and vegetables are still less expensive than meats, while sprouts and sauerkrauts are easily made. And then
For the palate jaded by flavour intensity, it may
come in a wonder filled moment of surprised appreciation, that
simply using raw ingredients can
yield not only a creative appeal,
but also complex taste and a variety of textures.
there is the health benefit, potentially reducing dependance on the sick-care industry. Like any aspiring home chef there are many helpful pieces of equipment that facilitate preparation. Whilst the DIY enthusiast could most likely rig up a dehydrator or even attempt sun drying, creating raw noodles from sweet potatoes, butternut, etc may be impractical without
75
a spiralizer. This nifty device quickly
raw food fridge!
delivers a mound of veggie spaghetti, with ease, that would stupefy big brand
Raw food is not only about health,
pasta companies. A simple vegetable
sustainable living and being aligned
peeler can slice up thin sheets of
with the modern day hippy culture, it
cucumber in no time. Wrapped around
is opening a new way to experience
a bundle of julienned carrots, garnished
gastronomic staples in an entirely
with home grown sprouts and seasoned
different way. In contrast to so
with a drop of organic tamari, they can
many chefs boasting the use of only
form the basis for simply delicious hors
the freshest ingredients, and then
d’oeuvres.
mangling them into a soirée of complex sauces, stews and soufflé’s,
Nut milks, made from blending soaked
raw food chefs show added sympathy
almonds with a few dates can be
for their components. They recognise
transformed into dairy alternatives that
intuitively the benefits of retaining the
contain no other agents, unlike their
nutritional value, as well as appeasing
expensive commercial counterparts.
the need for taste and artistry in
Combined with flax seed flour, the
presenting a satisfying meal. While
residual almond pulp is used to make
it may seem faddish to some or even
cookies and crackers. The raw food chef
horrifying to others, this revolution
thrives in an environment where there
is gaining popularity with many, as
is little left to waste. Less demand on
not only ailing bodies are restored
stoves means that domestic energy bills
to life enhancing health but aligning
may be reduced, and it goes without
consciously by choice to a somewhat
saying that composting becomes
less consumeristic lifestyle, one raw
integral to the holistic approach. This
meal at a time.
form of conscious living also brings with it a greater urge to recycle, use less plastic wrapping or carrier bags. I did return for the raw food chocolate cake, shortly after, actually the next day. In fact in the weeks to follow
76
Raw Chocolate Tart
I returned for the broccoli salad,
Easy | Makes 1 tart
another Thai salad and pretty much
PREP TIME: 45 MINS
anything that was on offer in the
SETTING Time: overnight is best
Ingredients For the base 200 g nibbed almonds or sprinkle nuts 100 g dates, pitted and chopped 30 ml coconut oil Pinch of salt For the filling 3 medium ripe avocados 100 g cocoa powder 60 ml coconut oil 100 g brown sugar 5 ml vanilla essence (optional) Pinch of salt
1. In a food processor, blend the almonds, dates, salt and coconut oil together until it starts to bind like dough.
2. Press the base into a 25 cm tart pan and place in the refrigerator to firm.
3. Place all the filling ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Pour the mixture over the firm base, smooth and place in the refrigerator for about 2-3 hours but preferably overnight.
4. Remove the tart from the
refrigerator garnish with almonds or fresh berries and serve. Note If you want a very dark chocolate look, add another 50g cocoa powder and another pinch of salt.
gARDEN of Easter Words, recipes and styling by Lungi Nhlanhla Photography by GINJA
Flower Pot
Stuffed Bread EASY | Makes 5 Prep Time: 2hrs Baking Time: 30 - 45 mins
Ingredients For the bread dough 625 ml white bread flour 1 packet instant yeast 15 ml sugar 2,5 ml salt 30 ml olive oil 250 ml warm water For the filling 100 g sundried tomatoes with oil 100 g peppadew 6 cloves garlic, roasted Handful fresh basil and coriander 250 ml pine nuts, toasted
food
As you all may have guessed, festivities are fast becoming my favourite. Any excuse to entertain I’m in. Easter is another one of those family holidays spent outside with Easter egg hunts. Here are a few recipes that will make the time more enjoyable, from a brunch idea to some ‘big kid’ and ‘little kid’ cocktails. And who can have Easter without a Cinnamon roll? Get the whole family involved and have a garden adventure.
food
Extra virgin olive oil 6 soft boiled eggs, peeled Extra flour for dusting
Caramel Cinnamon
Rolls
White and black sesame seeds to sprinkle LITTLE EFFORT | Makes 12-18 bread dough
1. Sift the flour into a bowl and add the yeast, sugar and salt. Combine the olive oil
“
Prep Time: 1 hr Baking Time: 45 mins
and warm water and add gradually to the
Ingredients
flour mixture to make a smooth, but slightly
For the dough
sticky, dough.
1 L (440 g) flour
2. Place on a floured surface and knead
80 ml brown sugar
for 5-8 minutes until smooth. Place in an
5 ml salt
oiled bowl and allow to prove (rise) for at
2 packets instant yeast
least an hour.
250 ml full cream warm milk
3. Preheat oven to 180˚C.
60 ml unsalted butter, melted 1 egg, beaten
From a brunch idea to some ‘big kid’ and ‘little kid’ cocktails. And who can have Easter without a Cinnamon roll? Get the
whole family involved and have a garden adventure.
80
FILLING
1. In a blender combine the sundried
For the filling 250 ml pecans nuts, toasted and chopped
tomatoes, peppadew, garlic, basil, coriander
60 ml brown sugar
and nuts. Add enough olive oil to loosen in
10 ml ground cinnamon
order to make a smooth pesto.
45 ml butter, softened
2. Once the dough has proved, on a floured
For the caramel sauce
surface knead in roughly ¾ of the pesto.
250 ml demerara sugar
Reserve some pesto for serving. Dust with
125 ml butter, softened
extra flour as the dough will become stickier.
250 ml cream
Continue kneading to form a smooth dough.
Extra nuts for garnish
place a soft boiled egg in the middle of each
Preheat oven to 180˚C.
3. Divide the dough into 6 portions. Gently
portion and place inside a clean and floured flower pot.
dough
dough to prove. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake in the oven
2. Combine the yeast, milk, butter and egg. 3. Pour the milk mixture into the flour
for 45 minutes or until golden. Allow to cool
mixture and combine into a soft, smooth and
slightly and serve with the reserved pesto.
sticky dough.
4. Repeat with all the portions. 5. Cover the flower pots and allow the
1. Sift the flour into a bowl and add the sugar and salt.
4. Place on a floured surface and knead until smooth.
5. Cover and allow to prove.
filling
1. In a bowl combine all the ingredients to make a flavoured butter.
2. Once the dough has proved. Roll out on a floured surface and spread the filling in
250 ml brandy
an even layer.
45 ml lemon juice
3. Roll dough into a long sausage shape. 4. Cut the dough into 2-4 cm long pieces
500 ml lemonade
and place (cut side down) side by side in a
60 ml orange juice
greased and floured baking tin. Cover and
250 ml triple sec
allow to prove.
1 lemon sliced
1 bottle dry red wine
5. Brush with egg wash and bake in the
1 orange sliced
oven for 45 minutes or until golden.
1 lime sliced 45 ml honey
caramel sauce
12 cherries (fresh or preserved)
No.1 Bona Terra
1. In a saucepan heat the sugar and butter
12 mint leaves
This little slice of Eurocentric bliss is
until melted and well combined.
For the blue cocktail
nestled in the highway area, situated
2. Whisk in the cream and pour over the hot buns as they come out of the oven.
2 L lemonade
inside Assagay Nursery. The Cafe
5 ml blue food colouring
3. Sprinkle with extra nuts and serve
Deli can easily be transformed into
1 lemon, sliced
a wedding or function venue. Take
warm or slightly cooled.
12 mint leaves
time out to enjoy the scenic garden
10 cherries (fresh or preserved)
atmosphere, by yourself or with the family, and experience all we have to
RED WINE COCKTAIL
Easter Cocktails
and crafty menu items that are paired
and allow to chill overnight in the fridge.
with local craft beers and wines. Open
2. Decant into a serving bowl or smaller
EASY | Serves 6-8 each
jugs and serve chilled.
Prep Time: 20 mins Chilling Time: 1-3 hrs and over night
Ingredients For the red wine cocktail
offer. Delight in breads baked daily
1. In a large jug combine all the ingredients
BLUE COCKTAIL
1. In a large jug combine all the ingredients and allow to chill for 3 hours until cold.
2. Serve chilled with lots of ice.
Tuesday – Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Breaking BREAD Words and recipes by Franc存ois Ferreira Photography by Kelvin Saunders
Ingredients Large pinch saffron strands 275 ml warm water 12 cardamom pods 500 g bread flour 45 ml butter Pinch of salt 1 packet active dry yeast 60 ml honey 1 egg, beaten Egg yolk to glaze 15 ml water
Bread is the main food item used in many cultures to celebrate holy and other festive days. Many people are intimidated by baking breads that have a little extra effort; that is not necessary as bread dough is very forgiving. Just imagine how popular you will be with your family when you produce one of these sweet or enriched breads.
50 g orange peel, cut into strips
1. Put the saffron in a bowl with the measured water and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Open the cardamom pods and grind the black seeds using a pestle and mortar.
2. Put the flour in a large bowl, add the
butter and rub it in with the fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the salt, ground cardamom and yeast and then add the honey and beaten egg. Gradually stir in the warm, saffron infused water to make smooth, soft dough.
Pulla
3. Knead well on a lightly floured surface
Originally from Finland, this butter and
for 5 minutes until the dough is smooth
egg enriched dough is delicately flavoured
and elastic. Put the dough back in the bowl,
with saffron and ground cardamom.
cover loosely with oiled cling film and leave
It is delicious served with butter and
to rise until doubled in size.
homemade apricot jam.
4. Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured
surface, knead well and cut into 3 pieces. EASY | Makes 1 ring loaf
Shape each piece into a rope of about 37
Prep time: 2 hrs
cm. Make a plait of the ropes.
Baking time: 20 mins
82
5. Lift the plait onto a large, greased baking
food sheet and shape into a ring, tucking the ends of the rope underneath so that the plait looks continuous. Cover loosely with oiled cling film and leave to rise for about 40 minutes.
6. Preheat the oven to 200ยบC. 7. Remove the cling film and brush the ring with the egg yolk mixed with 15ml water. Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes until the bread is golden and sounds hollow when tapped.
8. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool. 9. Once cooled sprinkle the orange peel
onto the bread and serve. Note Check after 10 minutes and cover with foil if the bread looks as if it is overbrowning. Candied orange peel can be used instead of fresh orange peel.
Poppy seed roll This bread originates from the Eastern bloc countries. Variations of the poppy seed roll are made in Lithuania, Estonia and Poland. LITTLE effort | Makes 1 loaf Prep time: 90 mins Baking time: 20 mins
Ingredients For the pastry
83
625 ml cake flour (white bread flour can also
rectangle. Mix the other half of the egg into
be used)
the poppy seed mixture. Spread the mixture
Pinch of salt
carefully over the pastry, leaving a 3 cm
80 ml castor sugar
border. Dampen the border with a little water.
30 g fresh yeast
Roll up the dough from the long side, making
5 ml sugar
sure to seal the edges. Place on a greased
100 g melted butter
baking tray.
125 ml tepid milk
5. Only now switch on the oven and heat it
1 egg, beaten
to 200ºC.
Icing sugar for dusting
6. Bake the poppy seed roll for 20 minutes
For the filling
until firm and light in colour. Be careful not to
120 g poppy seeds
over bake it as the cake should be soft and
100 g raisins or sultanas
moist inside. Remove from the oven, place on
125 ml milk
a wire rack and dust heavily with icing sugar.
20 g butter 100 g castor sugar
1. Sift the cake flour with the salt into a bowl. Stir in the castor sugar. Make a well in the
Pigna
center.
This is an Easter bread made in Italy – it’s
2. Cream the yeast with the sugar in the
difficult to decide whether it’s a bread or a
tepid milk. Pour the yeast mixture into the
dessert. Some of the recipes have a lot of
well in the flour. Use some of the flour in the
spice and others more fruit. This one is an
bowl and sprinkle it thinly over the yeast. Set
all-time favourite.
aside to sponge. When the yeast is bubbly, pour the melted butter and half of the egg
LITTLE effort | Makes 1 loaf
in. Stir the mixture to form a soft dough. Set
Prep time: 90 mins
aside to rise.
Baking time: 20 mins
a saucepan. Cook over a low heat, stirring
Ingredients
frequently, until slightly thickened. Don’t
230 g white bread flour
overcook as the filling must be moist enough
Large pinch salt
to spread on the pastry. Allow it to cool. The
15 g fresh yeast
mixture must be cool before it can be spread
30 g sugar
on the pastry.
30 ml milk, lukewarm
3. Mix the filling ingredients together in
4. Roll the dough on a floured surface to a
3 eggs, beaten
food
“ 60 g butter, softened and diced Grated rind of 1 lemon and 1 orange 110 g crystallised fruit, chopped 60 g almonds, roughly chopped Extra butter and icing sugar
1. Place the flour and salt in a mixing bowl and make a well in the center. Cream the
Many people are intimidated by baking breads that have a little extra effort; that is
not necessary as bread dough is very forgiving.
yeast to a smooth paste with the sugar and
5. Knock back the risen dough. Gently
milk. Pour the yeast mixture into the flour
work in the crystallised fruit and almonds
and leave to stand a few minutes until it
until thoroughly incorporated. Shape the
starts to bubble. Pour the eggs into the
dough into a disc about 4 cm thick and
mixture and mix all together to make a soft
put on a greased baking tray. Leave to rise
dough. Turn out the dough and knead until
until doubled in size. Bake in the preheated
smooth and shiny.
oven, for about 20 minutes until the loaf
2. Using your hands, gently squeeze the dough to work in the butter. When the butter
is golden and sounds hollow when tapped underneath.
is incorporated, add the lemon and orange
6. Transfer to a wire rack, brush the top lib-
rind and work them in in the same way.
erally with melted butter and dredge heavily
3. Shape the dough into a ball. Return the
with the icing sugar.
dough to a greased bowl, cover and set aside to rise until double in volume.
4. Preheat the oven to 190ÂşC.
Sources for inspiration: The Bread Book by Sara Lewis
85
EASTER
indulgence Deconstructed Carrot Cake with a whiskey cream custard Serves 8 – 10
Ingredients For the carrot cake 375 ml sunflower oil 250 ml Huletts White Sugar 125 ml Huletts Golden Syrup 4 eggs 5 ml vanilla essence 500 ml cake flour, sifted 10 ml bicarbonate of soda 10 ml baking powder
90 ml irish whiskey
cake tins. Bake for 25-30 minutes or
5 ml salt
1 can condensed milk
until firm to the touch.
5 ml cinnamon
500 ml store bought custard
500 ml grated carrot
10 ml cornflour
50 g pecan nuts or walnuts, roughly
86
ICING Cream the butter and cream cheese
chopped (for garnish)
CARROT CAKE
together until smooth. Add the vanilla
For the icing
Preheat the oven to 180°C. In a large
essence followed by the icing sugar, 125
100 g butter, softened
bowl mix the oil, sugar and syrup until
ml at a time, mixing between each
450 g cream cheese, softened
well combined. Add the vanilla essence
addition. Lastly stir in the lemon essence.
20 ml vanilla essence
and one egg at a time, mixing well
375 ml Huletts Icing Sugar, sifted
after each addition. Fold in the flour,
whiskey cream custard
5 ml lemon essence
bicarbonate of soda, baking powder, salt,
Add the coffee to the cream and
For the whiskey cream custard
cinnamon and mix until well combined.
microwave for 30 seconds and pour
15 ml pure coffee granules
Add the grated carrot and fold into
into a large bowl. Add in the whiskey,
200 ml full cream
batter. Pour into 2 well greased 20 cm
condensed milk, and custard and mix
85 g butter 125 ml whipping cream
ginja advertorial
200 g Huletts Treacle Sugar
MINI CAKES Heat the oven to 180˚C. Combine the flour, baking powder and set aside. In a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Add eggs and mix until well combined. Gradually add the flour, mixing well after each addition. Stir in cranberries and chopped walnuts. Pour into well greased mini Bundt moulds with a diameter of 7 ½ cm and bake for about 30 minutes or until baked through. Leave in the mould for 10 minutes then transfer to a wire rack to cool. Caramel sauce Place the sugar in a large deep saucepan and place over high heat while stirring well. In a large saucepan, over moderately high heat, heat the mixture and add the cornflour, whisking continuously until mixture starts to thicken. Remove
Mini cranberry Bundt cakes Makes 6
and pour into a large bowl and leave to
Ingredients
completely cool. If the mixture is lumpy,
For the mini cakes
pass through a sieve before serving.
250 ml flour, sieved
continuously with a whisk until the sugar has dissolved. Add in the butter and stir until it melts. Remove from the heat and mix in the cream.
www.hulettssugar.co.za
5 ml baking powder To assemble
125 ml butter, softened
In a trifle dish, spoon in a layer of whiskey
125 ml Huletts Sunsweet Brown Sugar
custard, top with a layer of broken up
60 ml Huletts White Sugar
carrot cake pieces, spread on a layer of
2 eggs
icing, then another layer of cake. Repeat
125 ml dried cranberries
this process, ending with the icing.
50 ml walnuts, roughly chopped
Garnish with roughly chopped nuts.
For the caramel sauce (makes 250 ml)
87
88
junior
somebunny
to love
For assembly Pink and white mini marshmallows (tail and feet) Baby pink royal icing (see below) Oreo cookies, to garnish For the royal icing 45 ml warm water 22.5 ml meringue powder/actiwhite
Being a kid these days is hard work. With
(available from baking stores)
a full school, sports and social calendar,
1.25 ml cream of tartar
it’s difficult to fit in impressing your crush
250 ml icing sugar, sifted
or helping with the Easter baking. With
Pink food colouring powder
these easy and delicious treats you are sure to gain a few admirers on the way... but don’t forget about keeping some stashed away for the chef!
Bunny butts
1. Roughly chop the chocolate in a heatproof bowl.
2. In a saucepan, add the cream and butter, bring to a simmer. This should take
Easter Truffle
Bunny Butts EASY | Makes: about 8 Prep time: 45 mins Refrigeration time: 3 hrs 15 mins
Ingredients
about a minute.
3. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, mix until well combined.
4. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. 5. Dust hands with cocoa powder. 6. With a spoon, scoop out desired amount and roll into a ball. Repeat the process until all the chocolate ganache is used.
7. Set in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
For the ganache 250 g dark chocolate 125 ml cream 25 g unsalted butter, Cocoa powder, for dusting
COATING
1. Pour melted chocolate over truffle ball and roll in desiccated coconut.
2. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
For the coating White chocolate, melted Desiccated coconut
royal icing
1. In a stand mixer, using the paddle,
89
desiccated coconut.
2. Cut out the ends of the marshmallows to make the bunny feet.
3. Using the pink royal icing, pipe the bunny toes.
4. Use the royal icing to stick the tail
and feet to the bunny butt.
5. Place in freezer for 15 minutes to set.
Strawberry yoghurt Ice
Lollies
combine the water and meringue powder and mix for 10 seconds.
2. Add the cream of tartar and mix for a further 10 seconds.
Ingredients & tools
to 7 minutes.
150 g strawberries, roughly sliced 90 g castor sugar 5 ml vanilla essence 500 g plain yoghurt 6 ice lolly moulds 100 g chocolate of your choice (melted) Edible sprinkles of your choice
colouring powder and mix to obtain the
1. In a medium bowl, add strawberries,
3. Add all the icing sugar and mix on low speed until it’s well combined and the mixture is shiny. Turn the speed up to high and beat until it forms stiff, glossy peaks. This should take about 5
4. In a separate bowl add the pink food
desired colour. To assemble
90
EASY | Makes: about 6 lollies (depending on the moulds used) Prep time: 10 mins Freezing time: 3-4 hrs +
castor sugar and vanilla essence.
2. Roughly crush the fruit with a whisk and mix until the sugar dissolves.
1. Dip mini marshmallows into the
3. Add the yoghurt to the strawberry
melted white chocolate and coat in
mixture and mix until well combined.
junior
4. Pour into 6 ice lolly moulds and freeze. 5. Once frozen, remove the lollies from the moulds and dip the tips into melted chocolate, quickly dip them into a bowl of sprinkles.
6. Serve as soon as they set!
Baked S’mores Easy | Makes: about 12 Prep time: about 55 mins Cooking time: 15-20 mins
Ingredients For the digestive biscuits 150 g brown whole wheat flour 5 ml baking powder 2.5 ml baking soda 2.5 ml salt 20 g bran 30 g rolled oats 100 g demerara or brown sugar 50 g unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 60 ml milk, or as needed Chocolate for coating For assembly Chocolate of your choice Pink marshmallows DIGESTIVE BISCUITS
1. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
2. Add the bran remaining in the sieve then add the extra bran, oats and sugar,
91
junior
mix until well combined.
3. Place in a stand mixer, add the butter and mix until it resembles breadcrumbs.
4. Add 45 ml of the milk and mix
well until it forms a soft dough. If the mixture is a little dry, add some of the
Easter Chocolate
Birds’ Nests EASY | Makes: about 10 Prep time: 10 mins Refrigeration time: 30 miNs
remaining milk.
5. Place the dough onto a sheet of wax Ingredients paper and shape it into a 25 cm long
240 g milk chocolate, melted
log. Wrap the paper round the dough
(plus extra to secure the candy
and roll it gently back and forth, then
coated eggs)
twist the ends of the paper to seal.
4 x 250 ml rice crispies cereal
6. Place dough in the refrigerator and chill for about 30 minutes.
Mini candy coated chocolate eggs
7. Preheat the oven to 190°C. 8. Unwrap the dough and cut into
1. Melt the chocolate. 2. In a large bowl, put the rice
8 mm thick slices. Line a baking tray
crispies cereal, pour over the melted
with baking paper and place the
chocolate and fold mixture until well
biscuits on the tray.
combined.
9. Bake for about 15-20 minutes or
3. Scoop an amount into a well-
until lightly browned.
greased muffin tray, using a spoon;
10. Place biscuits on a wire rack and
apply a little pressure to create a
leave to cool.
hollow in the centre.
microwave and allow to cool but not
will allow the nests to set.
11. Melt the chocolate in the
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. This
harden before coating one side of the
5. Remove from the fridge and apply
cooled biscuits.
melted chocolate to the hollowed out area, arrange 3 mini eggs on the
TO ASSEMBLE
chocolate.
Sandwich chocolate pieces and
6. Allow the chocolate to harden and
marshmallows between digestive
enjoy!
biscuits, with the chocolate coating inside. Microwave on high for about 10 seconds. Remove and enjoy!!
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93
Book review
Life on a table a glimpse into the Namibian Kitchen –
Namibian cuisine was a style of cooking
story written in the book. From her dad’s
that very few people had knowledge of
chicken curry to her friend, Dalene’s
until Antoinette De Chavonnes Vrugt’s
tongue-in-cheek Kalahari Snails, it is not
first book, My Hungry Heart saw the light
just a recipe book; it is a journal of her
of day. Her new book, Life on a Table
travels on the continent and life in her
– Stories from my Namibian Kitchen
beloved Namibia.
takes the reader into the very heart of Namibian cuisine, the kitchens of its people. Antoinette loves to cook: “Whether it began out of sheer desperation to save us from the potential embarrassment
Antoinette De Chavonnes Vrugt Published by Venture Publications
of having my mom cook for dignitaries when I was 12, or whether it is the relaxed atmosphere of my farm kitchen, surrounded by my husband Chris and
Rolled RIB OF SPRINGBOK
with Apple and Blue Cheese Sauce
my children Christoph and Marietjie, our
Ingredients
faithful dogs and always as many friends
1 rib of springbok or lamb
and family we can get around a table. I
String casing or culinary string
love to cook.”
For the filling 500 g minced meat
This love is evident in every recipe and
94
1 onion, chopped
food
2 slices of white bread (or 1 bread roll) soaked in water 1 apple, grated 250 ml pitted dates, chopped 25 ml white wine vinegar 200 g streaky bacon 25 ml chutney 15 ml apricot jam 5 ml salt 2.5 ml pepper Pinch of cloves 5 ml dried thyme 2 cloves of garlic, chopped For cooking the rolled rib 100 g butter 750 ml red wine 2 Granny Smith apples or pears, peeled and chopped For the sauce Pan juices with apple pieces 5 ml black pepper 50 g blue cheese
ROLLED rib of springbok
125 ml cream 100 ml sweet chilli sauce
“
FILLING
1. Mix all the ingredients for the filling. 2. Cover the inside of the rib with half of the streaky bacon.
3. Spread the filling evenly over the bacon.
Into the very heart of Namibian cuisine, the kitchens of its people.
95
4. Roll with care and cover the
75 ml buttermilk
outside with the remaining bacon.
For the filling
5. Put into a string casing or bind
with kitchen string.
1 x 410 g tin tomatoes, chopped 15 ml olive oil 1 clove garlic, crushed
COOKING THE ROLLED RIB
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1. Heat the butter in a cast iron pot.
5 ml dried oregano
Brown the meat on all sides in the hot
200 g tin tuna, drained and flaked
butter.
100 ml cheddar cheese, grated
2. Add the apple pieces and the red
3 eggs
wine. Cover with a lid.
250 ml cream (or ½ milk and ½
3. Simmer on the fire, or on the stove,
cream)
or in the oven for about 2 hours until
Pinch of salt
the meat is soft.
Freshly ground black pepper 12 Kalamata olives, pitted
SAUCE
1. Add the pepper, blue cheese,
1 x 45 g tin of flat fillets of anchovies (optional)
sweet chilli sauce and cream to the
Sprig of parsley or fresh herbs to
pan juices and reduce until the sauce
garnish
has thickened.
2. Take off the string and cut the roll into slices.
fisherman's pie
3. Serve with the apple and bluecheese sauce.
CRUST
1. Place all the ingredients for the crust into the bowl of a food processor and blend only until the dough holds together.
2. Alternatively, mix and knead lightly
Fisherman’s PIE Ingredients
by hand.
3. Grease a round ovenproof pie dish generously with butter and press the dough evenly into the dish.
For the crust
4. Trim the edges neatly and
250 ml cake flour
refrigerate until the filling has cooled.
7.5 ml baking powder Pinch of salt 50 ml oil
96
FILLING
1. Sauté the onion and garlic in oil
food
“ for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time until soft.
2. Add the tomato and oregano and continue to cook until most of
rabbi eli's hake tagine
the moisture has evaporated. Stir in the tuna and cool to room temperature.
it is not just a recipe book; it is a
journal of her travels.
3. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the crust, cover with the tomato
1 onion, sliced
and tuna mixture and sprinkle with
4 carrots, peeled and shaved
the remaining cheese.
1 bunch of fresh coriander,
4. Beat together the eggs, cream
chopped
(or milk and cream) and salt and
1 bunch parsley, chopped
pour over the filling.
125 ml water
fillets on the top, if used.
1. Place the fish in a marinade
5. Arrange olives and anchovy 6. Bake at 180°C for about 60
minutes or until the crust is golden and crisp and the filling has set. 7. Cut into wedges and serve hot.
bowl and cover with the turmeric, paprika, salt, pepper and olive oil.
2. Shave the carrots with a potato peeler to reduce their cooking time. Start by packing your tagine (or saucepan) with the garlic halves,
Rabbi Eli's hake
tagine
Ingredients 1 kg firm fish fillets
cocktail tomato halves, onion and carrot shavings.
3. Cover with half the chopped coriander and half the chopped parsley. Put the pieces of fish on top.
(6 pieces)
4. Cover again with the rest of the
15 ml turmeric
parsley and coriander.
45 ml paprika
5. Rinse the marinade bowl with
60 ml olive oil
the water and pour it over the fish.
Salt and pepper to taste
Cover with the lid and simmer on
10 cocktail tomatoes, halved
low for about 20 minutes or until
6 cloves of garlic, halved
the fish has turned white and firm.
97
INGREDIENTS
ginger and garlic and fry until they
2 kg angelfish
begin to soften. Add the flour, curry
750 ml verjuice
powder and turmeric and fry for
250 ml white wine vinegar
30 seconds. Pour in the white wine
150 g sugar
vinegar, water and sugar and bring
1 Tbsp sugar
to the boil, turn down the heat and
2 Tbsps curry powder
simmer for 10 minutes. Remove
1 tsp salt
from the heat. Place the fish in a
1 Tbsp black peppercorns
glass or stainless steel dish and
1 Tbsp coriander seeds
pour over the hot marinade. Leave
4 onions sliced
Pickled fish with Courgette Ribbons and Yoghurt & Coriander Dressing
98
to cool and then refrigerate.
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3. Slice the courgettes lengthways
100 g ginger root thinly sliced
into broad noodles with a
6 bay leaves
vegetable peeler.
2 red chillies, finely chopped
4. Finely chop the coriander and
25 g flour
add it to the yoghurt, season with
6 courgettes
salt and pepper. Arrange a pile of
500 ml plain yoghurt
courgette ribbons in the middle of
30 g coriander
a plate and place a piece of pickled
1. Cut the fish into 5cm cubes.
fish on top of the vegetables. Spoon a little of the marinade on
Season the fish with salt and
top of the fish. Drizzle the yoghurt
pepper and fry in a pan in hot oil.
dressing around the outside of
Remove from the pan and keep to
the plate.
one side.
2. Heat some oil in a large
This WWF-SASSI recipe is courtesy
saucepan. Add the coriander seeds
of chef, Pete Goffe-Wood, from
and bay leaves and fry for 30
Kitchen Cowboys in Salt River and a
seconds. Add the onions, chillies,
MasterChef SA judge.
food GREEN - BEST CHOICE Anchovy Angelfish Calamari/Squid (various species) Dorado (SA line caught) Gurnard (SA offshore trawl) Hake (SA trawl)
For more information please go to www.wwf.org.za/sassi or SMS the name of the fish to 079 499 8795, to find out if your fish is on the Green list.
Always look for MSC eco-labelled products, e.g. the South African trawled Hake, for the best choice in sustainable and traceable seafood. See www.msc.org for more info. Always look for ASC eco-labelled products for the best choice in responsible and traceable farmed seafood. See www.ascaqua.org for more info.
Rainbow trout (farmed in SA) Sardines (SA) Snoek (SA) Yellowfin tuna (SA pole caught) Yellowtail (SA)
The most sustainable choice from the healthiest and most well managed populations. These species can handle current fishing pressure, or are farmed in a manner that does not harm the environment.
ORANGE - THIN K T W ICE Cape dory Carpenter (SA line caught) Dorado (SA pelagic longline) East Coast spiny lobster Englishman Geelbek/Cape salmon (SA line caught) Hake (Namibia) Hake (SA demersal longline)
Kingklip Octopus Panga (SA line caught) Pangasius/Basa (farmed in Vietnam) Prawns (various species) Catface rockcod White-edge rockcod Yellowbelly rockcod
Red roman Atlantic salmon (Norway farmed) Santer Sole (East Coast) Swordfish (SA pelagic longline) Bigeye tuna (SA pelagic longline) West Coast rock lobster
Exercise caution when choosing these, as they are either depleting as a result of overfishing and are unable to sustain the current pressure, or fishing/farming methods may be causing harm to the environment.
RED - DON ’ T BUY Black musselcracker/ Poenskop Dageraad Jacopever Kob (SA inshore trawl) Red stumpnose/Miss Lucy Scotsman Shortfin Mako shark (SA pelagic longline) Biscuit skate
Baardman/Belman Blacktail/Dassie Brindle bass Bronze bream Cape stumpnose Galjoen Garrick King fish Natal knife jaw Natal stumpnose
Red steenbras River snapper Seventy-four Spotted grunter West Coast steenbras White musselcracker White steenbras Spotted Grunter West Coast Steenbras White Musselcracker
White stumpnose Bluefin tuna
Natal wrasse Potato bass
White Steenbras
NO SALE SPECIES
guide
Hottentot Kob (farmed in SA) King mackerel Queen mackerel Monk Mussels Oysters
Don’t buy these species. They are either from unsustainable populations, due to collapse and/or extreme environmental concerns and/or lack of management, or are illegal to buy or sell in South Africa.
99
OUT and about A look at the fabulous foodie events not to be missed
The Grand White Dinner
112
FNB Mpumalanga Wine Show
12 MARCH, SECRET VENUE PRETORIA,
Backsberg Centenary Picnic Concerts 2016
GAUTENG
14 FEBRUARY - 13 MARCH, BACKBERG
MPUMALANGA
A picnic, popping up at 2pm until 10pm,
ESTATE, WESTERN CAPE
Visitors will be treated to over 250 of
in a secret location, to be revealed the
Chill out with your friends and family
South Africa's finest wines. Vino-lovers
morning of the event. Bring your own
on the lawns in our beautiful gardens.
can taste old favourites and sample new.
food or purchase from the available bars
With Simonsberg as the backdrop, enjoy
Budget-friendly show prices allow them
and stalls. Dress Code: Guests to wear
some of South Africa's incredible local
to add new stock to home collections.
white with a splash of green. Foods, live
bands. We will provide snacks, chilled
Olives, olive products, wine accessories,
music and entertainment, an event that
Backsberg wine and drinks in a setting
luxury stemware and artisanal products
promises to be unforgettable. Visit www.
rich with the colours of nature. Visit
will be on offer at the show. Visit www.
thegrandwhite.com for more info.
www.backsberg.co.za for more info.
mpumalangawineshow.co.za for more info.
7 - 8 APRIL, EMNOTWENI ARENA,
Stellenbosch Street Soirees
Rosé Festival
The feast of the Grape
10 &24 FEBRUARY - 9 & 23 MARCH,
13 FEBRUARY, RICKETY BRIDGE ESTATE,
27 - 28 FEBRUARY, DURBANVILLE
STELLENBOSCH, WESTERN CAPE
FRANSCHHOEK, WESTERN CAPE
WINE VALLEY, WESTERN CAPE
Stellenbosch Street Soirees will invade
Summer romance? Join the Rosé
Itching for grape amusement? Kick
Drostdy Street, cars make way for partygoers
Renaissance and head for Franschhoek
off your shoes for some squishing and
to sip, savour and share in the enviable
on Valentine’s weekend to stop, smell
squashing at the Durbanville Wine Val-
lifestyle of the country’s second oldest
and taste, the Rosés, Brosés (Rosés
ley’s Feast of the Grape, a weekend of
town. It is an after-work street party where
for the ‘bros’) Cocktails and Bubblies.
harvest fun, hosted by 12 wine farms in
strangers become friends over a glass of
Believed to be the oldest style of wine
the Valley. Celebrating the harvest sea-
wine. Gourmet snacks by resident eateries
in the world, rosé is traditionally dry and
son at the picture perfect D’Aria Wine
and upbeat vibes from talented local
crisp, hailing from the Provence region
Farm with an abundance of seasonal
musicians add to a cool and casual setting.
of France, the mecca of Rosé. Visit www.
wines and entertainment. Visit www.
Visit www.wineroute.co.za for more info.
ricketybridge.com for more info.
durbanvillewine.co.za for more info.
Cape Town Art Fair
Franschhoek Summer Wines
Tonteldoos Highlands Festival
19 - 21 FEBRUARY, CAPE TOWN
6 FEBRUARY, LEOPARD'S LEAP FAMILY
26 MARCH, TONTELDOOS, MPUMALANGA
INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION
VINEYARDS, WESTERN CAPE
Tinderbox strikes into flame, the only
CENTRE (CTICC), WESTERN CAPE
The winemakers have selected their
Scottish festival in the Highlands (of SA).
Art lovers are anticipating the fourth
favourites and invite you to join them,
Entertainment includes traditional dancers,
edition of Cape Town’s Art Fair, the
sampling these superb wines. Enjoy
the kilted mile (runners with kilts only)!
leading international art fair on
delicious food from the rotisserie kitchen,
Featuring seasonal peaches and peach
the African continent. The best of
as you relax on the veranda or the
products in almost any shape or form,
contemporary African and international
sprawling lawn with views of the valley,
including preserves and peach mampoer,
art, with art talks and walks by world
all the while listening to the enchanting
makes this a not to be missed festive
contemporary art professionals. Visit
sounds of local performers. Visit www.
experience. Visit www.highlandsfestival.
www.capetownartfair.co.za for more info.
webtickets.co.za to book tickets.
co.za for more info.
113
GINJA CHEAT SHEET Edible Flowers
Chrysanthemum
Hibiscus
Peony
Famous for its
These eye catching
refreshing teas, this
flowers are mainly
vibrant flower has
used in homemade
strong cranberry and
floral flavoured water
tart flavours. Once
and summery salads.
dried they can be
Their roots are often
used in desserts or
used for medicinal
savoury treats.
purposes.
Violas
In a variety of
As one of the
colours ranging from
more common
the palest yellows to the
edible flowers, their
brightest reds, these
combination of floral
flowers can be brewed
and sweet flavours
in teas or used raw in
can be used to
salads to enhance their
complement drinks
pepper taste.
and desserts alike.
use only the petals.
A list of some other edible flowers found: Apple Blossom, Squash Blossom, Dahlia, Lilac, Carnation, Chive Blossom, Fuchsia, Marigold, Snap Dragon,
102
Bachelors Button, Dianthus and Camellia.
KIT C NV HEN ER SIO N
CO
S
OVEN TEMPERATURES Gas Mark 1 Gas Mark 2 Gas Mark 3 Gas Mark 4 Gas Mark 5 Gas Mark 6 Gas Mark 7 Gas Mark 8 Gas Mark 9
Lavender Used mostly for aromatherapy treatments, lavender has a number of uses. Their sweet and spicy
140˚C 150˚C 170˚C 180˚C 190˚C 200˚C 220˚C 230˚C 240˚C
275˚F 300˚F 325˚F 350˚F 375˚F 400˚F 425˚F 450˚F 475˚F
flavours can be used
SPOONS, CUPS & LIQUIDS
to create delectable syrups, whilst their
tsp-teaspoon, dsp-dessert spoon, Tbsp-tablespoon
dried flowers are used to create delicious baked goods.
Rose Surprisingly
PANSY With a mild and
enough, all roses can
refreshing flavour,
be eaten, although the
it is recommended
darker petals
that the entire flower
taste better. Their
is used. Pansies are
perfume and flavour
also commonly used
can be used to float in
in cake and cupcake
drinks and
decorating, and
to make a variety of
used both fresh and
sweet jams.
sugarcoated.
1/4 tsp 1/2 tsp 1 tsp 1 dsp 1 Tbsp 1/4 cup 1/3 cup 1/2 cup 1 cup 4 cups
1.25 ml 2.5 ml 5 ml 10 ml 15 ml 60 ml 80 ml 125 ml 250 ml 1L
SOLID MEASUREMENTS 1 Cup Flour Caster Sugar Brown Sugar Butter Sultanas/Raisins Currants Golden Syrup Uncooked Rice Grated Cheese
Metric 140g 225g 170g 225g 200g 140g 340g 200g 110g
DINE OUT guide
Freedom Café, DURBAN
The GINJA selection to Valentine's dining across South Africa.
Café Dijon, CAPE TOWN
Kwa-ZULU NATAL
Address: 37-43 Street, Mary’s Avenue,
Havana Grill & Wine Bar
Greyville, Durban
Tel No: 031 337 1305
www.tastefreedom.co.za
Address: Suncoast Casino, Battery Beach Road, Durban
GAUTENG
www.havanagrill.co.za
The Blades Restaurant Tel No: 012 808 9943
The Oyster Box
Address: Kameeldrift Road, Kameeldrift East,
Tel No: 031 514 5000
Pretoria
Address: 2 Lighthouse Road,
www.theblades.co.za
Umhlanga www.oysterboxhotel.com
Level Four Restaurant Tel No: 011 344 8442
104
Freedom Café
Address: 54 Bath Avenue, Rosebank,
Tel No: 031 309 4434
Johannesburg
Junipa’s
Café Dijon
Tel No: 011 706 2387
Tel No: 021 418 3910
Address: Corner Hobart and Grosvenor
Address: 15 Napier Street, Green Point,
Road, Johannesburg
Cape Town
www.junipas.co.za
www.cafedijon.co.za
Winehouse @ Ten Bompas
Pigalle
Tel No: 011 325 2442
Tel No: 021 421 4343
Address: 10 Bompas Road,
Address: 57A Somerset Road, Cape Town
Johannesburg
www.pigallerestaurants.co.za
www.tenbompas.com Isola at One & Only The Laughing Chefs
Tel No: 021 422 0800
Tel No: 072 511 4946
Address: 72 Wale Street, Cape Town
Address: 217 Soutpansberg Road, Pretoria
On the Rocks
www.laughingchefs.co.za
Tel No: 021 554 1988 Address: 45 Stadler Road, Bloubergstrand,
Parc Fermé
Cape Town
Tel No: 011 245 4846
www.ontherocks.co.za
Address: 8 Maude Street, Sandton Central, Johannesburg
Rick’s Café Americain
www.parcferme.co.za
Tel No: 021 424 1100 Address: 2 Park Road, Gardens, Cape Town
WESTERN CAPE
www.rickscafe.co.za
Café Chic by Conrad Gallagher Tel No: 021 465 7218
THE BLADES, GAUTENG
Address: 7 Breda Street, Oranjezicht, Cape Town www.cafechicsa.com Catharina’s at Steenberg Tel No: 021 713 7178 Address: 10802 Tokai Road, Cape Town www.steenbergfarm.com/catharinas
105
Recipe index
B
P
Baked apple roses 32
Pickled fish with courgette ribbons
Baked s’mores 91
and yoghurt & coriander dressing 98
Bloody Mary granita 18
Pigna 84
Brandy Alexander cheesecake with
Piri-piri chicken 54
summer fruits 70
Pistachio Greek yoghurt cheesecake
C Caesar salad 42 Caramel cinnamon rolls 80
Poppy seed roll 83 Pulla 82
Chocolate hot cross buns 47
R
Cream of tomato and sage soup 19
Rabbi Eli's hake tagine 97
D
Raw chocolate tart 76 Red pork chilli 52
Deconstructed carrot cake with a
Rolled rib of springbok with apple and
whiskey cream custard 86
blue cheese sauce 94
E
S
Easter chocolate birds’ nests 92
Salade Niçoise 41
Easter cocktails 81
Spicy white chocolate tart 06
Easter truffle bunny butts 89
Strawberry yoghurt ice lollies 90
F
T
Fisherman’s pie 96
Thai-style marinated fish 52
Flower pot stuffed bread 79
Tomato and mozzarella tarte tatin 20
Frozen tomato cream 20
G Greek salad 42
K Kuku Wa Kupaka 62
M Mini cranberry bundt cakes 87
106
with cherry syrup 44
V Visheti 62
W Waldorf salad 41
Directory ANCHOR YEAST - I LOVE 2 BAKE www.ilove2bake.co.za ARAMEX www.aramex.co.za
NO 1 BONA TERRA CAFE info@bonaterracafe.co.za OYSTERS R US www.oystersrus.co.za
ALEX POLTERA www.alexpoltera.com
RADISSON BLU - CENTRAL ONE RESTAURANT www.radissonblu.com
CHAINE DES ROTISSEURS www.chaine.co.za
UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS www.ufs.com
COL'CACCHIO PIZZERIA www.colcacchio.co.za
SA BRANDY FOUNDATION www.sabrandy.co.za
ELBA www.elba.co.za
ST. HELENA TOURISM www.sthelenatourism.com
FERN HILL HOTEL www.fernhillhotel.co.za
SNOWFLAKE www.snowflake.co.za
FLEUR DU CAP www.fleurducap.co.za
SURVAL BOUTIQUE OLIVE ESTATE www.surval.co.za
FOOD MATTERS www.foodmatters.co.za FRANCOIS FERREIRA ACADEMY www.francoisferreira.com FYNBOS FINE FOODS www.fynbosfoods.com HULETTS www.hulettssugar.co.za JENNA CLIFFORD www.jennaclifford.com JAKKALSVLEI PRIVATE CELLAR www.jakkalsvlei.co.za MILES FOR STYLE www.milesforstyle.com NETFLORIST www.netflorist.co.za
THE FAT FISH www.thefatfish.co.za THE VINEYARD ON BALLITO www.vineyardonballito.co.za TUNGI DISTILLERY www.tungi.co.sh VENTURE PUBLICATIONS www.travelnewsnamibia.com VIEWS HOTEL www.viewshotel.co.za WWF SASSI www.wwfsassi.co.za ZZ2 www.zz2.biz
How many senses do we have? I say
sixth sense, I say, is memory...
that when it comes to food we have six, obviously the first sense that comes to mind
Recently I was at a function with a
is taste and yes - the taste sensation is used
smorgasbord of finger snacks and teeny
when you are preparing a meal – how sweet
tiny desserts. I couldn't identify this soft,
or sour – how salty or bitter.
white stuff on a spoon but when I put it in my mouth I was magically thrust back two
But, you wouldn’t be able to taste without
decades in time.
your sense of smell – true story. Someone walks past with takeaway fish and chips.
At boarding school - if everybody had
FOMO! You can smell hot fried chips, salt
behaved during the week – Matron
and vinegar, battered fish...a complete
rewarded us with a thick, slightly lumpy,
assault on your olfactory system; you would
sweet porridge sprinkled liberally with
pay almost anything for half their lunch.
cinnamon- Melkos. That little dessert tasted exactly like Melkos. Instantly transported
The last
WORD
with Darren Maule
We covet first with our eyes. Why else would
back to Potch Boys High, I recalled - the
so much focus be put on plating a dish; the
smell of cheap aftershave on the Matric
composition, the colours. It is art and the
at my table- the metal serving bowl and
visual aspect could ultimately determine if
huge ladle- the creak of my wooden
one will venture to taste something.
chair. All these memories came flooding back because that little dessert tasted
Sound and food? Sound, sadly, is highly
like something long forgotten. I even
underrated, listen! - A champagne cork
remembered the thoughts that would
pops, the crust on freshly baked bread
race through my head at the table...will
crackles, someone breaks crisp celery and
I be in trouble tomorrow for not doing
you are instantly reminded of celebrations,
my homework? Will I be going home this
braais and salads. Well, I am!
weekend? If not - I'd better rehearse my words for the school play.
Then touch – Pap and mash look the same until you touch them. You feel avocados,
All the emotions, feelings and memories of a
mangos and pears to establish ripeness
teenager at boarding school, evoked for just
long before you taste them.
a couple of seconds, purely from the chance taste experience. So…for me, memory is the
108
So what is this elusive sixth sense? Intuition?
sixth sense and, if you don't believe me; just
Like knowing when lacking one ingredient
watch “Ratatouille” – as my daughter and I
what you could substitute it with. No, the
do on a regular basis.
youtube.com/ColCacchioPizzeria
@colcacchio colcacchio.co.za
Chefs enjoy playing with flavours Here is a range of herbs & spices to create something special
WIN
R500 000 in Rewards with Robertson’s. See pack for details.
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