winter issue > 2009-2010
>introduction >INTRODUCTION
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>COFFEE TALK
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>DESIGN SEEKERS
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>SHOPPING
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>50 HOURS IN LEBANON
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>NIGHTLIFE
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>MUSIC & DANCE
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>GOURMET
/18, 20
>MUSEUMS
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>USEFUL INFORMATION
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>ANCIENT HEARTLANDS
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>SOUKS & ARTISANAT
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>THE LAND OF THE HOLY
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>DO, BUY & TASTE
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>HEALTH TIPS
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>WINE LOVERS
/34, 36
>WINTER WONDERLAND
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>PERFORMING ARTS
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>YOUNGSTERS
/42
>ART SCENE
/44
>HOROSCOPE
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Lebanon comes into its own during winter time. White-capped mountains offer some of the most spectacular winter leisure activities the country has to offer. Down on the coast the temperature is warmer making it ideal for discovering centuries-old architecture and a wealth of antiquities, not to mention tonnes of retail therapy too. Why not head out of Beirut and take an exhilarating drive along the coast and soak up breathtaking views of the Mediterranean? Or drive inland to the Bekaa Valley with its world-famous wineries and plethora of ancient ruins. But what’s better than heading to the snow-capped mountains to discover Lebanon’s internationally renowned ski resorts? Offering an ideal getaway for weekend skiers, snowboarders and snow mobile enthusiasts, the resorts are also the place to be seen for the hedonists among you. For cultural offerings, the capital is simply awash with world-class art galleries exhibiting national, regional and international works of art. Theatres too are a place of cultural refuge. Discover Lebanon’s past through its museums, or explore the hidden gems of centuries-old religious sanctuaries such as Valley, or go to the depths of the earth at Jeita Grotto. If that tires you out, you can always kick back and relax in the hip coffee lounges and pavement cafes that litter the capital After sundown, the pulsating capital shows another face: glamour. A bastion of elegant eateries, rivaling those found in Europe and Stateside, offer a precursor to what the evening has yet to offer. As the evening progresses, join Beruitis and party the night away in stunning cocktail bars and nightclubs that constantly rate in the world’s top ten nightspots. Whatever your preference, Le Journal points you to the very best attractions the country has to offer and wishes you a wonderful stay.
/4 LE JOURNAL is published by: City News Privilege Editor: Derek Issacs Writers: Stephen Wakeem Sara Persson Art Director: Genia Kodash Advertising: Randa El Khatib Mekkaoui +961 3 385 906 randamek@hotmail.com Printed by: RAIDY www.raidy.com
Cover:
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Christian Dior , Carnivora
An invite into a Lebanese home will invariably involve the host offering guests a small china cup of laboriously prepared sweetened Turkish coffee as part of local hospitality. Throughout the capital too vast arrays of traditional and modern coffee houses offer an instant boost of the black stuff. Along the bustling streets of Beirut, the sound of clinking cups alert customers to street vendors plying their wares, or coffee. Add to this the scene of touring coffee vans complete with espresso machine perched on the back, then quite possibly Lebanon has become the global coffee capital. While traditional coffee houses abound, stylish cafés lure a more modern crowd offering a menu displaying numerous diverse coffee blends. To assist you in your choice Le Journal has put together a selection of the best pick-me-ups in order to get your cup’s worth as Beirut saunters by: La Maison du Cafe Najjar
Costa Coffee Hamra t. 01 343 338
Achrafieh t. 01 332 300 De Prague Makdissi Str. t. 03 575 282 Popular with a trendy ex-pat crowd this hive of modernity offers great snacks too.
Stressing on the importance of excellent coffee, excellent service all within a home-like environment, this cafe offers up its secret aromas.
Lina’s Centre-Ville t. 01-970 153 / 154
Charles Malek Avenue Achrafieh t. 01 321 600
Starbucks Place Sassine, Achrafieh t. 01 570 170 This world-renown coffee hub is situated in an ideal location for people watching.
A beacon of quality, Lina’s is much more than just a place to purchase sandwiches.
Tribeca
al Mandaloun Cafe
While away the hours watching the world pass by at this pavement cafe famed for its brew.
Columbus Cafe
Abdul Wahib El Inglizi Str t. 01 339 123
Achrafieh t. 01 218 225
Laid back and friendly modern space offers bagels and coffee, plus there is art for sale adorning the walls too.
France’s leading chain of espresso bars treats its guests to a wide selection of gourmet drinks
This latest addition to the renowned Mandaloun group allows its clientele to relax in decor secondto-none in this luxurious three-roomed space.
Cafe Younes Gourmet Commodore Street, Hamra t. 01 347 531 Hang out with the city’s intelligentsia at this original coffee shop and roaster.
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Paul Gemmayzeh Achrafieh t. 01 570 170 Drink alfresco and indoors at this superb French chain and enjoy a cream fancy too.
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Atelier S/Z Neatly tucked away in bar and club land is Atelier SZ, a design den fronted by duo Sybille Tamer and Ziad Abillama that spills forth their ideas, sensations, feelings and their functional works. Reworking of the traditional nargileh in Plexiglas entitled Why U, Y Me and other design quirks line the shelves of this unique atelier creating a new perspective on traditional designs. 22 Rue Gemmayzeh, Beirut t. 03 727 929 www.ateliersz.com
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Le Journal gets to grips with the capital’s favourite consumer haunts. From under-the-radar designer boutiques to famous chains and some of the region’s most exclusive shopping malls, Beirut is truly an eclectic retail experience.
Saifi Village
Downtown Fanning out from Place de L’Etoile, original Roman roads carve gaps between a bastion of French and Ottoman architecture. And as they have done since time immemorial, ancient mosques and churches sit side by side. Over on the western flank, even an old disused synagogue awaits renovation, while to the east is Place des Martyrs, overseen by the imposing Mohammed al Amin Mosque. In between it all are some of the capital’s most exclusive boutiques. For an evening of sheer indulgence, and people-watching, sit back in one of the numerous pavement cafés, smoke nargileh and relax as centuries-old memories whisper tales of the orient in your ear.
Achrafieh Achrafieh is an absolute beacon of savvy chic. Shady thoroughfares lined with Ottoman and French colonial period architecture tastefully merge with sleek designed modernism rendering it one of the capital’s most established and avant-garde neighbourhoods. Offering a multitude of fine dining, coffee houses, and chic shopping avenues and malls, this famous elite stamping ground was originally built on what has been deemed as the ‘city of the dead’ – an old Roman cemetery. But Achrafieh is anything but lifeless. With a host of upscale nightlife venues abounding both Monot and Gemmayzeh, there is plenty to keep you up until sun rise.
Hamra Once renowned as the Champs Elysées of the east, this historical district is again ushering in an era of decadence. Bound by world class universities, the chic urban quarter even boasts its own park - the Sanayeh Public Gardens. While Hamra’s main thoroughfare attracts hordes seeking the more familiar international brand names, including world-renown coffee shop giants, edgier brands are joining the ranks. On and off this retail rue, a maze of streets is spangled with independent boutiques and modernistic furniture galleries promising a day of absolute retail therapy.
Saifi Village, or Le Quartier des Arts, is a charming residential enclave amid a bevy of traditional Levantine architecture. Perfect for a leisurely stroll, it is easy to forget that this ‘village’ sits neatly in the hub of the bustling capital. Numerous antique stores, art galleries a wealth of chic boutiques and designer stores adorn this myriad of cobblestoned streets. While a trendy café sits in the ‘village’ centre, haute-cuisine restaurants on its periphery ensure that the culinary connoisseur’s taste buds are truly tingled. Saifi Village truly demonstrates to visitors Beirut’s claim as a regional cultural hub.
Verdun Wide tree lined boulevards abound lending themselves perfectly to this upscale district of Verdun. With sophisticated skywardbound architecture, this commercial and residential setting forms the capital’s western edge, and is one of Beirut’s most sought after retail locales. With its main retail rue lined with sumptuous shopping malls, large, glass-front designer stores and chic cafés, even its side streets yield pleasant surprises. For it is here that independent bijou boutiques both display their chic brands from the Arab world and further afield.
**Shopping Malls** ABC Mall, Achrafieh >>> Housing some of the city’s finest boutiques, both independent and chains, this luxury mall matches the standards found in Europe. With ove 200 shops, it also boasts a cinema complex and an amazing array of eateries. 01 222 888
www.abc.com.lb
ABC Mall, Dbayeh >>> Renovated to fabulous standards, the mall is strategically located on the highway a few miles north of the capital. A wide selection of clothes, shoes, household items, books and more satisfy shopping whims. And for the small ones, check Kidsville. Dbayeh Highway. 04 416 000
www.abc.com.lb
City Mall, Dora >>> Popular with weekend shoppers, this mall boasts three floors of retail outlets including a large cinema complex and a bevy of eateries. Boulevard Dora Banks, Nahr El Mot, Beirut 01 905 555
Bourj Hammoud With such names as Arax and Yerevan adorning a clutter of narrow streets, you might be inclined to believe you have left Lebanon. However, there is no need for passports just yet. You have quite simply arrived at Beirut’s unique and historic Armenian Quarter. The reverberations and aromas permeating this vibrant community assault the senses in almost every way possible. Awash with rows upon rows of commercial shopping streets, Bourj Hammoud promises to leave even the most ardent retail therapist gasping for breath.
Kaslik Conveniently situated off the main Beirut to Jounieh highway, Kaslik is suburban shopping at its best. A vibrant retail thoroughfare lined with the best in local and international designer brands make the trip outside the city boundaries well worth it. Pavement cafés afford panoramic views of nearby Jounieh Bay, Harrisa Mountain and the glamorous Casino Du Liban, while cinema complexes, bars and nightclubs offer entertainment well after sundown.
Dunes, Verdun >>> A spacious inner atrium greets shoppers at this elegant and state-of-the-art mall. Containing boutiques for the more discerning shopper the mall also boasts a cinema complex. www.dunes.com.lb Le Mall,Sin El Fil >>> Five-tiered shopping set within the Habtoor Grand Hotel Convention Center & Spa with over 100 shops to tempt even the most discerning shopper with international brand names, a wide selection of food and beverages, and a children’s crèche and play area. Horsh Tabet Sin El Fil 01 485 685. Beirut Souks, Solidere >>> The southern section, or South Souks, of what promises to be the largest shopping centre in Lebanon has opened its doors earmarking the capital as a major regional area for shopping and entertainment. www.solidere.com/souks2
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Piaff
Hurry to Zaatar w Zeit for a typical breakfast, the Man’ushe, a Lebanese specialty made of bread, thyme and olive oil baked in the oven or on the “saj”. Walk along the corniche and take in the bracing sea air. Breakfast European style at Paul in Gemmayzeh before heading north to the white capped mountains. En route stop at Dog River and visit the exact spot where ancient armies crossed centuries before.
Soak up the scenery as you head up to Faraya Mazaar ski resort. If there is enough snow then enjoy a day of skiing or snowboarding. Otherwise enjoy your time at the InterContinental Mazaar Hotel. For lunch enjoy fondue around an open fire.
It’s the beginning of the weekend so you might as well get into a Beirut frame of mind and head straight to hip Gemmayzeh and admire the traditional architecture.
Enjoy an evening meal at the Igloo and some drinks and party with the best before heading back down to the capital. Don’t forget to stop for some fresh roasted chestnuts too.
After taking in Gemmayzeh’s great looks, enjoy a cocktail or two at Al Cazar and a sumptuous dinner before moving on to other nightspots. This lively rue opens till very late.
If you are not too tired, head to Beirut’s Mar Mikhael and discover its new bars and cafes. Try L’Osteria for an authentic Italian platter in a convivial atmosphere.
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Visit the newly opened Souks shopping Mall before lunching al fresco in one of Downtown’s numerous restaurants and mingle with diners from worldwide.
In the afternoon join the happy throngs of Sunday strollers at Sanayeh Park. If all that fresh air wears you out , walk down HamraStreet and relax with a coffee at Laziz.
Head to the old fishing port of Jounieh and wander down its original high street lined by authentic fishermen villas.
Then head for the fabulous Casino du Liban and catch a dazzling show or have a flutter in the Casino itself before heading to nearby Al Balad Restaurant for authentic traditional Lebanese cuisine.
www.bataldesign.com
www.bataldesign.com Beirut,Verdun Tel: 00961 1 80 48 03 Fax: 00961 1 80 00 28
Beirut, Corniche Al Mazraa Tel: 00961 1 30 99 88 Fax: 00961 1 31 99 88
Jounieh, Sahel Alma Highway Tel: 00961 9 93 31 13 Fax: 00961 9 93 31 12
Riyadh, Takhassossi Str. Tel: 00966 14 81 01 78 Fax: 00966 14 8 1 01 28
Jeddah, Prince Sultan Str. Tel: 00966 26 98 03 29 Fax: 00966 22 5 6 19 31
Rivaling and in many cases surpassing European cities as party capital of the Eastern Mediterranean, Beirut and its environs play hosts to a massive plethora of pubs, bars, clubs and live music venues, not forgetting theatres and cinemas too. The Lebanese begin their partying late and clubs do not really begin to swing until well after midnight. In some establishments it will be difficult to tell if you are in a restaurant or a nightclub as dancing suddenly erupts and meals are swept away and dining tables become makeshift mini dance podiums for its diners. Some venues offer live music such as Arabic, jazz and rock. From cutting-edge night clubs and bars to cozy pubs, Beirut is most definitely the 24 hour party capital that captures the imagination of the most hedonistic among its partygoers.
Pubs / Clubs
Nightclub/Restaurant
B018 Qarantina [ 01 580 008 ] Cutting Edge decadence in an underground venue whose roof slides back to reveal the stars above.
Al Cazar S t Nicolas Stairs Gemmayzeh [ 70 186 555 ] Sit back and while the way night at this trendy cocktail bar and restaurant.
Bar Louie Gouraud Street Gemmayzeh [ 01 575 877 ] Live music and a Dj are offered at one of Beirut’s older jazz and blues bars.
OBAR Ain El Mraisseh [ 01 366 222 ] “Exclusively for connoisseurs” If you are fancying fine wine, refined cigar & succulent French cuisine, all beautifully celebrated in a piano bar ambience, OBAR is your perfect address.
Basement Charles Helou Avenue [ 01 570 505 ] A groovy venue with international DJs hitting the decks. Blue Note Makhoul Street Hamra [ 01 743 857 ] A Beirut institute in live Jazz-orientated entertainment. Club Social Mar Maroun Street [ 01 562 121 ] Hip and art basement venue offering lively club-like events. Gauche Caviar Gouraud Street Gemmayzeh. [ 01 566 375 ] An eclectic mix of cocktails, DJ and music for Beirut’s Porsche crowd. Palais by Chrystal Monot Street [ 03 854 455 ] The place where it is all happening. Charlies Gemmayzeh a cool easy place to hang out with friends and listen to music with friends.
Element nightclub/restaurant Damascus Road Achrafieh. [ 01 212 100/ 03 080 099 ] Eight AL Nahar Building [ 03 060 090 ] Combining a restaurant lounge atmosphere with a slightly more upbeat dance scene this place attracts an elite crowd. Buddha Bar Riad El Solh [ 01 993 199/ 03 152 121 ] An opulent nightspot modeled after the Paris original with an exclusive atmosphere. The Library Saifi [ 01 448 944 ] A hot spot for Beirut’s jet set and usually packed to its rafters at the weekend. Music Hall Starco Centre [ 03 807 555 ] With a weekly live show starring national and international talents this makes for a spectacular evening out. Noir Gemmayzeh [ 01 443 444 ] Enjoy the night at this fabulous night spot. Shah Lounge USJ Street Achrafieh [ 01 330 033 ]
A busy night at Beirut’s Music Hall
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soyez Ă la mode
Jnah 01/820 338 Hamra 01/343 335 Corniche an-Nahr 01/584 222
The Lebanese are multifaceted; there is no disguising it. Be it in languages, academia or even in the country’s demographics, Lebanon always seems to have its fair share of firsts. Music and dance is no exception and is just one more example where the Lebanese excel. From classical music composers such as Gabriel Yared, Guy Manoukian to more Arab pop stars such as multiplatinum singer Nancy Ajram and of course the nation’s favourite, Fayrouz, Lebanon is simply brimming with talent. Lebanese composer Guy Manoukian
Guy Manoukian
The Music Hall
Interested in classical music since he was four years old, these days Guy Manoukian’s music can be heard by club revelers partying it up in Beirut’s nightclubs. Performing at concerts the world over, his music is a fusion of Arabic and Armenian tunes with modern contemporary arrangements. His latest album ‘Assouman’ released in June remained at the top of the Lebanese charts for 12 consecutive weeks. Guy Manoukian will be performing live at the Rotana Beach Hotel in Abu Dhabi on the 31st of December 2009. For more information go to www.guymanoukian.com
Conservatory of Music, is the founder and the principal conductor of the orchestra. Composed of 50 musicians, the Lebanese Oriental Arabic Orchestra was founded upon the suggestion of the conservatory president in spring 2000. Its first concert was on 28 July 2000 at the UNESCO Palace. Dr. Walid Gholmieh, the president of the Lebanese National Higher Conservatory of Music, is the principal conductor and founder of this orchestra. Concerts: 4, 11 December and the Christmas concert 22 December. Also on the 15, 22, 29 January and 5 February. St Joseph’s Church, Monnot. For further information call 01 489 530 or go to www.conservatoire.org.lb
The Lebanese National Symphony Orchestra & Oriental Arabic Orchestra
Caracalla
The Lebanese National Symphony Orchestra and the Oriental Arabic Orchestra of the Conservatoire were created in 1999 by Dr. Walid Gholmieh, President of the Lebanese National Conservatoire. Established in 1998 the Lebanese National Symphony Orchestra’s first concert was on February 28, 2000.Today the orchestra gives 25 to 30 concerts per season and Walid Gholmieh, the President of the Lebanese National Higher
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Founded in 1970 by Abdel Halim Caracalla, the Caracalla Dance Company fuses western and oriental dance techniques very much leaning towards traditional Lebanese folk dancing, or better known as dabke. Achieving global, regional and national success, the shows, complete with national dress, make for a thrilling experience. For information on the latest programme call 01 499 904 or go to www.caracalladance.com
While showcasing musicians and artists from around the world in a cabaret setting, the Music Hall also has a gourmet menu on offer. Operating three night a week – Thursday, Friday and Saturday see concerts by international performers, including Jazz and world music artists. With up to eight live performances per night, Music Hall is the only theatre night venue that specialises in live entertainment and cultural showbiz. For an events’ programme call 03 807 555 or 01 361 236
Casino Du Liban Famed throughout the Middle East for its spectacular shows, the winter season fails to disappoint. Proudly presenting Nights of Fire – Cuba at La Salle des Ambassadeurs from 18 December to 3 January, BENISE, the Spanish guitarist, composer and creative of Nights of Fire – Cuba unveils his Emmy Award winning masterpiece. The exhilarating show is an unprecedented and spectacular adventure through Spanish flamenco, Cuban salsa, African tribal rhythms, Argentinean tango, and Brazilian samba. For more information go to www.cdl.com.lb
Gastronomic Delights
With the eastern and southern Mediterranean countries sharing the same language (Arabic) and sharing dishes of the same name, it would be easy to lump such cuisine into one job lot. Doing so, though, would be totally uncalled for and unfair. Encompassing the best aspects of Turkish and Arabic cooking with a French spin of course, the Lebanese are proud of their cuisine - and quite rightly so. Using the freshest and most flavoursome local ingredients, the nation’s inhabitants create recipes that are uniquely Lebanese. And with such a wealth of home-grown produce at its disposal, is it any wonder that Lebanon’s cuisine is one of the greatest in the Middle East, if not the globe itself? For the Lebanese, the role of food and its consumption is an important one and is the very fabric of social and family interactions, reflecting the exotic colours of the warm Lebanese culture, and its rich heritage. In short, Lebanese cuisine is a true reflection of its welcoming culture.
Fresh, organic & Lebanese Souk el Tayeb, Lebanon’s first weekly farmer’s market, commands a colourful and bustling corner of Saifi Village on Saturday mornings. Very much a family affair, stalls are awash with fresh, local and seasonal produce which is sold by the very people who cultivate the stuff. Selling homemade breads and biscuits, their famous wood-oven pizzas, jars of homemade pesto and even sausages is a stall by Beirut family-run restaurant, Tartufo [ 01 202 832 ]. Apart from meeting Tartufo family members, it is an ideal opportunity to meet Italian trained Tartufo Chef Tony and get to know how he creates such well-renowned authentic Italian dishes. With an atmosphere that is hard to match elsewhere in Beirut, it really is worth waking up early for and heading to market. For further information go to: www.soukeltayeb.com
I Cook Ever fancied being a cook in a restaurant? Well, now you can at Tawlet Souk el Tayeb [ 01 448 129 ]. Situated in Beirut’s fashionable Mar Mikhael district this novel eatery offers you the chance to use its kitchens to rustle up fine cuisine for your chosen guests. And should support be needed, the Souk el Tayeb team will be on hand to assist of course. Other than that, this rustic yet stylish eatery offers a daily traditional Lebanese buffet cooked by the very producers of the famous Souk el-Tayeb farmer’s market with produce fresh from the market itself.
Food and Feast If you wish to see different parts of Lebanon, attend a Food and Feast Festival and you will be learning more about the region than you bargained for. Supporting local producers, the one day festivals are organised in different regions of Lebanon by Souk El Tayeb and help shed light on both local cuisine and cultural traditions of the region. For further information go to www.soukeltayeb.com
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>GOURMET Earth Markets Slow Food Beirut [ 01 738 068 ] aims to bring long forgotten traditional Lebanese recipes back to the 21st century dining table. Offering produce that is good, clean and fair, Slow Food Beirut is a convivium of Slow Food International and has Earth Markets situated throughout Lebanon. For more information go to www.slowfoodbeirut.org
Roll Up Your Sleeves If you fancy trying your hand at preparing fine cuisine, and tasting it of course, then Tartufo cookery courses may just be the tonic. Tartufo [ 01 202 832 ] offers weekly cookery courses up to advanced levels. With insights into bread and pastry making and Italian delights, as well as desserts too, participants are invited to join the chef at breakfast time to learn how he plies his trade, and finally sharing luncheon. If brushing up on your table manners is required then Tartufo also offers a course on Dining Etiquette.
appétit Le Journal invites you to return home with a little piece of Lebanon, or its grand eateries at least. Try out these recipes from three of the capital’s esteemed restaurants:
Tagliatelle nero avec langoustine
Froi Gras Le Ferme St Jacques [ 01 512 333 ] invites you to tour its duck farm high in the beautiful Batroun Hills. The Middle East’s only Foie Gras producer lets you peek at its secret delicacy as it is created and exported far and wide, not least to select gourmet boutiques and eateries in Lebanon. The highlight of the tour is saved till last with a feast of Foie Grasserved in St Jacques’ Monastery itself. www.lafermestjacques.com
An Acquired Aroma Diners at Tartufo [ 01 202 832 ] may be wondering what’s in the air. With white truffles now in season and on the restaurant’s menu, a distinctive aroma permeates the dining space. Fresh from the historical Italian city of Alba, the white truffles are a delicacy for Beirut’s most discerning diners.
Ingredients: • • • • • • • • •
30g olive oil 5g garlic 200g langoustine 20g cognac 1\4g red hot pepper A pinch of persley 100g of langoustine stock Tagliatelle nero 120g Salt and black pepper
Medaillons Morilles • •
200g filet of beef Mushroom sauce ( for five persons) • 100cl fresh cream • 12g mushrooms • 50g onions • 10cl beef stock Garnish with risotto, truffles & sautéed vegetable
Risotto Champagne • • • • • • • • • •
200g risotto Arborio 10g onion 10g olive oil 20g fresh cream 10g parmesan cheese 2g salt&pepper 100g champagne 5g aneth 5g ciboulette 250g jumbo shrimps
Preparation:
Fry the lobster with the garlic and olive oil and the red pepper. Flambé the lobster in the cognac. Boil the lobster with the stock and cherry tomatoes. Add parsley. Boil the pasta ,drain it and add to the stock. Add salt and pepper to taste.
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Tartuffo
AStepBackinTime With archaeological sites interspersed throughout the capital and Lebanon, it would seem as if you have arrived at an open air museum; in many ways you have. But also scattered throughout the nation are indoor museums offering guides about the nation’s illustrious past and its internationally famous Lebanese citizens. National Museum of Beirut
Cilicia Museum
Innumerable treasures from excavations in Beirut, Sidon and Tyre depicting Lebanon’s vibrant history pay testament to the nation’s rich heritage. Ancient statues and artefacts can be traced back to the Phoenician era.
One of Lebanon’s most unseen museums is something not to be missed with its no less than 230 rare medieval Armenian manuscripts, row upon row of delicate silver chalices and altar pieces, reliquaries, a stash of 2,000 ancient coins and an entire floor of modern Armenian paintings.
Damascus Road, t. 01 612 295
Mouawad Museum An Arab palace, built by Mr. Henri Pharaon back in 1911 offers a majestic backdrop for this exquisite private museum. Pottery, ancient weapons, unique carpets or sophisticated Jewellery pieces, objets d’art and rare precious stones make up the collection on show. t. 01 201 801
Antelias, t. 04 410 001 www.cathcil.org
Gibran Khalil Gibran Museum The historic museum lies next to the picturesque town of Bcharreh. Displaying personal artefacts, a personal library and paintings, divided among 16 rooms. t. 06 671 137 www.friendsofgibran.org
Sursock Museum Set within a preserved Italian-style mansion and former home of the Sursock family, the museum displays permanent exhibitions of art such as Japanese print and Muslim art displays, as well as playing host to temporary exhibits focusing on contemporary art. Sursock Street, Achrafieh; t. 01 201 892.
Sidon Soap Museum A well-laid out gallery housed in a 13th century stone building is Lebanon’s first soap museum and allows visitors a glimpse into Sidon’s soapmaking past. Included in this delightful space is a fascinating display of hammam accessories. Moutran Street, t. 07 753 599 – 03 753 599
The Museum of the American University of Beirut (AUB) Housed in an attractive 19th century building, this is Beirut’s only other archaeological museum. Items date from prehistory going up to the Islamic Era. Also on show is a collection of Phoenician glassware. Main gate Rue Bliss, t. 01 363 235
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Useful Numbers
Bargaining Although it is great fun and acceptable at a number of places, please do not bargain in supermarkets and outlets selling food as you will be deemed to be nothing but ill-mannered.
Dress Miniskirts are a common sight in Lebanon, as are Islamic veils. However, one must still respect the cultural norms within certain areas of the country or districts of the city. If in doubt, look around you and follow suit. Headscarves are usually required for females when visiting mosques, and shoulders must be covered when visiting churches or other religious places.
Getting Round Walking is the best way of getting around and the most logical place to start is Beirut Corniche. Find unexpected surprises off the beaten track along the way, but should you get lost, then simply ask any local for help as no one will refuse to come to the rescue of a stranded tourist. Or try a shared taxi, or ‘serveece’. Pre-booked taxis are more costly but much more luxurious and well worth the extra.
Health Lebanon has top-notch medical services; be it hospitals or pharmacies. No vaccine is required prior to visiting Lebanon.
Languages Arabic is the Lebanese national language. However, it is common to speak French and English. At times Lebanese Arabic, English and French are often combined in one sentence.
Money The official currency is the Lebanese Pound, or Lira. The US Dollar is also in use. Most establishments accept international credit cards such as MasterCard and American Express and ATMs are in abundance throughout the country, and there are money exchange offices throughout Beirut and major towns and cities.
Photos and Videos The country offers ample opportunity for scenic photo shots. However, if you are near a military base or a VIP’s residents, then be advised to put your camera away.
Security Compared to other countries of the world street crime in Lebanon is rare. This is put down to its tight-knit communities which allow streets to be safe both day and night.
Telephone The first two digits of Lebanese numbers are the area code. Telephone kiosks are found throughout Beirut and most major towns and cities. Prepaid calling cards are available from the post office and some newsagents.
Tipping Porters, guides, waiters, hotel staff, taxi drivers etc are all usually tipped. The average tipping rate in restaurants is 10 – 15%, whereas with other services between 2000 and 10,000LL is acceptable.
Weather Lebanon gets 300 days of sunshine a year Coastal temperatures rarely fall below 15 degrees C during the rainy winter, and may reach in access of 31 degrees C on average in the humid summer. In higher altitudes the air becomes drier and fresher. Major snowfalls allow skiing between December and April and the spring and autumn seasons see average temperatures of 21 degrees C.
Water Being a water rich nation in a water deficient region you will find water in abundance. However, it is advised not drink tap water unless you are certain of its cleanliness.
Sioufi Garden, Rue Jean Jalkh, Achrafieh - with panoramic views across the city this space with its squares, winding paths, pools and play area appeals to all ages and is worth visiting. Gibran Khalil Gibran Garden, Downtown - a small open green space with a working fountain and a statue of Gibran Khalil Gibran in the centre.
Museums and Galleries AUB Museum / Rue Bliss [ 01 340 549 ]. The oldest museum in Lebanon with a collection of Lebanese and Middle Eastern artifacts such as weapons, figurines, pottery and jewelry. Beirut Art Centre / Jisr El Wati, Building 13, Street 97, Zone Adlieh, Beirut [ 70 262 112 ]. A nonprofit association, space and platform dedicated to contemporary art in Lebanon.
Landmarks and Public Spaces
Gibran Museum / Bcharreh [ 06 671 137 ]. A former monastery pays tribute to Lebanon’s native son Gibran Khalil Gibran and his works from his personal life.
Pigeon Rocks, Raouche - a monumental natural arch jutting up from the Mediterranean and is a great place to sit at one of the roadside cafes and watch the sun set.
National Museum of Beirut / Damascus Road [ 01 612 295 ]. A fascinating introduction to Lebanon’s vibrant history covering archeological treasures from many periods.
Solidére Clock Tower, Downtown originally built by the French in the early 20th century this signifies the very centre of Downtown.
Robert Mouawad Private Museum [ 01 980 970 ]. A space where beauty welcomes culture as priceless and elegant jewels are exquisitely displayed throughout this restored palace.
Place des Martyrs, Martyr’s Square, Downtown - a vast open space in honour of national martyrs. Jeita Grotto - is a compound of crystallized caves in Lebanon located 20 km north of Beirut in the Valley of Nahr al-Kalb (Dog River). This grotto is made up of two limestone caves, upper galleries and a lower cave through which a 6230 m long river runs. Geologically, the caves provide a tunnel or escape route for the underground river. In this cave and galleries, the action of water in the limestone has created cathedral-like vaults full of various sizes, colors and shapes of stalactites and stalagmites, majestic curtains and fantastic rock formations. The total length of the cave is more than 9000 m and there is one among the biggest stalactites in the world hanging 8,20 m. The grotto accommodates a huge hall with a distance of 108 m from the ceiling till the water level. St Nicholas Place, Charles Malek Avenue Achrafieh - a bijou space with a Romanesque ornamental water feature flanked by shrubbery and benches. Sanayeh Garden, near Hamra - over a century old this oasis of greenery offers city slickers a respite from the concrete jungle and is popular with families. Horch Tabet Garden, (Beirut Pine Forest) Fouad Chehab Street, Horch Tabet an immaculate modern space with lawns ideal for picnicking.
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Running Horse Contemporary Art Space/ Sleep Comfort Depot, Medawar Beirut [ 03 710 225 ]. Showcasing Lebanese and international artists. Sfeir-Semler Gallery/Tannous Building Quarantina [ 01 566 550 ]. Beirut’s ‘white cube’, Sfeir-Semler Commercial Art Gallery exhibits the very latest in contemporary Arab, Lebanese and international artists. Sidon Soap Museum / Moutran Street [ 07 753 599 – 03 753 599 ]. Its restoration initiated by the Audi family, the museum exposes Sidon’s glory days and details the varied stages of soap making. South Border Gallery / Gemmayzeh Rue Gouraud [01 584 040 ]. Bringing the best in South American art to the very heart of Lebanon Sursock Museum / Rue Sursock Achrafieh [ 01 334 133 ]. Permanent exhibits are housed within an impeccably preserved Levantine architecture and further exhibits are displayed periodically. Wonders of the Sea / Assad Yazbeck residence, Jdeideh el Matn [ 01 891 548 ]. A wide collection of seashells, corals, sponges, starfish, replicas of sharks and more are on display in this 19th century Lebanese house.
International Calls 100 Information/Ogero 1515 Airport 150 Beirut Port 01 580 211 Civil Defence 125 Doctors at Home 01 444 400 Red Cross 140 Police 111 Baabda 05 920 152 Beirut 01 300 575 Jounieh 09 917 000 Tripoli 06 822 222 Fire Brigade 175 Bachoura 01 655 111 Beirut 01 310 105/155, 01 445 000 Jounieh 09 931 725 Sidon 07 720 061 Tripoli 06 431 017 Zahle 08 822 222
Taxi Companies Geryes Taxi Taxi Premiere
01 332 747 1260 or 01 389 222
Allo Taxi
1213 or 01-366 661
Embassies Algeria Argentina Armenia Australia Austria Belgium Brazil Canada Chile China Columbia Denmark France Gabon Germany Greece Holland Hungary India Indonesia Iran Italy Japan Jordan Kuwait Malta Mexico Morocco Norway Pakistan Paraguay Philippines Poland Qatar Romania Russia Saudi Arabia Senegal Serbia Spain Sri Lanka Sudan Switzerland Tunisia Turkey UAE Ukraine United Kingdom Uruguay USA Vatican Venezuela Yemen
01 826 712 01 210800 04 418 860 01 973 970 01 217 360 01 976 001 05 921 255 04 713 900 04 418 670 01 850 315 04 712 646 01 991 001/5 01 420 100 04 532 372 04 929 600 04 521 700 01 204 663 01 898 840 01 373 539 05 924 682 01 821 224 05 451 406 01 989 751 05 922500 01 822 516 01 559 984 04 418870 01 859851 01 960 000 01 858 631 01 361 400 01 212001/4 05 924 881 01 805189 05 924 848 01 300 041 01 799 361/2 01 810 232 09 212 260 05 464 120 05 924 765 01 755 201/2 01 324 123/167 05 457 431 04 520 929 01 857 000 01 510527 01 990 400 09 636 529 04 542 600 09 263 325 01 888 701 01 852 688
Plum
Lebanon has always offered visitors a taste for great style and luxury – Le Journal visits five spectacular historical locations from North to South.
Byblos
Sidon
If you would like to rediscover life’s simple pleasures, then head for the picturesque Byblos, town and birthplace of the modern alphabet. Surrounded by culture, history and beauty and a dream come true, it is photogenic and perfect to explore on foot. The ancient yet luminous fishing harbour hits you first, closely followed by the elegantly weathered Roman ruins, souq and crusader castle. The place is so tiny it feels like a hidden treasure. Glorious and charming it is enjoyed by both the international jet set and the more low-key traveller.
Soak up the looks, flavours and of course the style of this great Capital of South Lebanon and first home of the Phonecians. The striking shoreline and intense local flavours provide a sublime backdrop to the city’s history. Like Tyre this city has bore witness to many conflicts, since its birth more than 6000 years ago. The castle, khan and other historical sites convey a sense of the numerous conquests by Persia, Greece, Rome and the Arabs that is quite unique. Although today this city is best known for its copper and brass trays, production of engraved wooden boxes and furniture, olive oil soap and bone-handled cutlery.
Balbaak Compared to the grandiose elegant structures of Balbaak even the Coliseum seems futile. This is the ‘City of the Sun’, or as it is better known, ‘the most prominent ancient site in the Middle East’ and a must-see for any visitor to Lebanon. Considered one of the wonders of the world, the majestic courtyard, which seems to go on forever, is always full of visitors who travel the world to delight in the formidable historical architecture. A visit to Balbaak is by far the best way to discover the ancient and luxurious country of Lebanon and its people throughout the centuries. For those who delight in art and history there are countless interesting and valuable antique details to discover.
Tyre Thriving in the plentiful sun 81 km from Beirut is the city of Tyre with its long and dramatic history. Souqs flank the tiny restaurants that sell fish in kayakshaped platters lined with Lebanese delicacies, whilst overlooking the fabulous beaches, as well as being populated by warm and welcoming citizens. Away from the hustle of Beirut, here you can breathe and take things easy. The expanse of white sand on one side, with palm trees and banana plants on the other renders this one of the most beautiful locations along the Lebanese coastline. And like many other parts of Lebanon the city holds its share of Unesco World Heritage-listed Roman ruins and Phoenician findings.
Beiteddine Delight in fresh mountain air, while overlooking the beautiful valley that stretches to the Mediterranean Sea – all from the top of Beit Eddine village and the alluringly beautiful castle of the same name. Ideally located 900 metres above sea level, this magnificent masterpiece from the early 1800s offers the best of Lebanese Italian-inspired architecture. Constructed by architect Emir Bechir Chehab to reflect the power and glory of the Ottoman emperor, it took 30 years to complete. In summertime the castle plays host to one of the leading festivals of the Middle East. It is a wonderful opportunity to see the huge vaulted stables, the main courtyards, marble portals, water fountains, and luxurious hammams in all their splendour.
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PARK VIEW - HIPPODROME
BURJ KRONFOL PARK VIEW - HIPPODROME
415 sqm apartments In the clutter of Beirut, Burj Kronfol stands tall in front of a lavishly open space. Directly overlooking the vast field of the Beirut Hippodrome and La Residence Des Pins, the tower’s ideal location gives its spacious apartments even more breathing space and an unobstructed open view.
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Hassan KROnfOL BEIRUT - LEBANON TEL:+961 1 805005 FAX:+961 1 802002 E-MAIL: sales@kronfol.net
>souks & artisanat
With Lebanon’s ancient cities still inhabited, the country’s wealth of history is well and truly alive. Le Journal invites you to explore just a handful of some of the country’s ancient attractions that litter this unique and wonderful landscape.
Artisans Assyla: Al Hares Haidar and partner Najwa Sinno have revived an age-old tradition of jalabia and evening gown creation. Cut from vintage fabric that echoes a spirit of revival, yet with a 21st century twist, this Saifi Village boutique offers the best in traditional hand-stitched couture and oriental accessories. Said Akl Str, Saifi Village, t. 01 970 333
Khan Al Saboun
Tyre
Zouk Mikhael
Tripoli Old City
The northern city of Tripoli may well have been Lebanon’s soapmaking centre, but it is Sidon that leads the way in soap museums. A well-laid out gallery housed in a 13th century stone building is Lebanon’s first soap museum and allows visitors a glimpse into Sidon’s soap-making past. Included in this delightful space is a fascinating display of hammam accessories. With a café and gift boutique selling local products, including of course scented soaps, opportunity arises to purchase loved ones back home the ideal gift.
With its wealth of Roman ruins, it is little wonder that Tyre has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Playing an important role in Lebanon’s early commerce with its production of handblown glass mostly from the Roman, Byzantine and Islamic workshops, Tyre’s modern-day artisans continue this ancient craft. Head for the lively Ottoman souks and wander around the harbour where colourful boats bob up and down and where traditional boat repair workshops create a picturesque scene.
In the northern suburbs of Beirut is historical Zouk Mikhael which houses the original Ottoman era ‘Old Souk’, and was once a trading centre of silk housing 400 NAWL weaving looms. Nowadays, the renovated souks make a pleasant walk as arcades and alleyways bustle with local artisans plying trades and crafts as they have done for centuries. Punctuated with cafés bars and restaurants centred on a Roman amphitheatre and exquisite park, it makes an ideal escape from the heat of the capital.
Ramble down the lively streets and alleyways of Tripoli’s Old Souk and witness artisans and merchants plying their trade as they have done for centuries. The colourful scene unravels like a medieval tapestry, matched by the architectural heritage of the souk. With 40-listed monuments too, there is definitely plenty to keep visitors busy. The labyrinth of passageways open out into welcomed green spaces and squares making for a refreshing change to the bustling streets that surround it.
Sidon Soap Museum, Moutran Street. 07 753 599 03 753 599
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Artyre: This three-roomed space revives and continues the traditional Phoenician craftwork created in the ancient city of Tyre itself. A mix of furniture, table art and handicrafts both in Phoenician and contemporary style, including exquisite Verre soufflé – hand-blown glass, litter the showrooms. Al Akhtal Sagheer Street, Balataji Building, Ramlet El Baida, Beirut. t. 01 851 351 For more information, visit www.artyre.com Orient 499: Paying tribute to regional and traditional craftsmanship, this unique artisan boutique completely embraces contemporary aesthetics. A collection of unique home furnishings, clothes, jewellery and bath items make this an ideal place to explore. 499 Rue Omar Daouk, Mina al Hosn. t. 01 369 499 Commodore Street, Hamra: An interesting collection of artisans line this bustling retail rue. Choose from an array of local and regional souvenirs and keepsakes.
Lighthouse MANARA - SEA FRONT
LIGHTHOUSE MANARA - SEA FRONT
470 sqm apartments “Settle in your favourite sofa and indulge yourself with a view of the Mediterranean at the tip of your feet.”
w w w. k r o n f o l . n e t DEVELOPER
Hassan KROnfOL BEIRUT - LEBANON TEL:+961 1 805005 FAX:+961 1 802002 E-MAIL: sales@kronfol.net
Two thousand years ago, news of the teachings and healing powers of the Prophet of Galilee reached the ancient land of Phoenicia. Throughout the land Jesus walked, preached and performed some of his miracles, such as turning water into wine at Qana, southeast of Tyre. On many occasions even His apostles, such as St Paul, paid homage to this spiritual and sacred nation. As churches and monasteries dotted the landscape, it wasn’t long before the sanctifying of saints began in earnest, including Saint Maron, the spiritual founder of the Maronite church. Our Lady of Lebanon
The Saint of Kififan
Holy Qadisha Valley
Perched on top of a mountain stands the statue of a massive Blessed Virgin Mary whose outstretched arms face towards Beirut. A winding staircase invites visitors to climb heavenwards to the top of the Virgin Mary, while inside the base of the statute is a tiny chapel. And below her are a scattering of churches and cathedrals of differing Christian denominations. The location affords spectacular views over the Bay of Jounieh and distant Beirut. Travel by Telepherique – cable car – from nearby Maalmaltein for a journey of a lifetime, or by car up the winding mountain road.
A life of solitude, meditation and the denial of worldly vanities is what so accurately defined the Lebanese Saint Neemtallah Kassab Hardini (recently canonized by the Vatican on 16 May, 2004). Commended as having a radiant soul, he was said to be deeply united with the Creator. One of his students was Charbel Makhlouf, better known as Saint Charbel Lebanon's beloved Maronite hermit, the miracle worker. However, Saint Charbel was not the only miracle performer, for St Neemtallah too performed his own miracles and both saints each have a spiritual resting place of remembrance widely visited by the devout.
Set within the dramatic landscape of North Lebanon just prior to the mountain town of Bcheri, is a gorge dedicated to the faithful: Qadisha Valley. Famed for sheltering the first Maronite Christians, the valley was also a refuge for other spiritual communities – Syrian Orthodox, Eastern Orthodox, Ethiopian and even Muslim Sufis – who safely continued practicing their faith in this isolated rugged gorge centuries ago. Awash with important convents, hermitages, grottos and troglodyte cells, c many of which are open all year round, it makes an ideal trip out of the city.
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‘Come All
Ye Faithful’ The Saints & their Locations
St. Neemtallah Kassab Al-Hardini, Monastery of Kfifan, Batroun, Saint Rafqa St. Joseph Monastery, Jrebta village, Batroun St. Charbel Monastery Saint Maron, Saint Charbel Tomb, Annaya, Byblos, t. 09 760 130 Saint Maron Monastery Saint Maron Saint Aquilina A shrine has been built just east of the old city walls, Byblos.
TITANIUM AIN EL TINEH
TITANIUM AIN EL TINEH
315 sqm and 475 sqm apartments Adding its signature to a Beirut neighbourhood synonymous with exceptional exclusivity is TITANIUM. Amid an absolute epicenter of sheer refinement in the capital’s fashionable quarter of Ain el-Tineh, this luxurious residential development stands out as the pinnacle of luxury and refinement.
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Hassan KROnfOL BEIRUT - LEBANON TEL:+961 1 805005 FAX:+961 1 802002 E-MAIL: sales@kronfol.net
BUY
A Unique Bag
A Little bit of France
It’s fresh, feminine and fashionable. What more could you ask for? Treat yourself to a handcrafted bag for a little retro chic this season.
Let the cuisine transport you to a place beyond the Middle East. Sample French delights at Racine
Sarah’s Bag t. 01 575 585
DO
Vintage Pieces
Winter Whiteout What’s winter without snow? Head to the country’s envious ski resorts in the mountains where you can ski and snowboard. Or, party the night away. But the best thing would be to do both.
Standout from the crowd with a unique piece of handcrafted jewellery from Madame Rêve and you will be guaranteed to turn heads whenever you walk in a room. Madame Rêve t. 01 565 545
Learn the Lingo
Precious Jewels
With the highest literary rates in the Middle East, it comes as no surprise that most Lebanese speak three languages. Get in the swing of it with this nifty three-lingo sentence: Hi, kifak - ca vas?
You know you are worth it. Invest in exquisite jewellery for 2010 and shine like a movie star. Cadran t. 01 975 333
The Ultimate in Time
Smoke a Nargileh
Time is precious, or it certainly is when it is a Chopard timepiece. Remember your time in Lebanon, always.
Soak up the atmosphere of an age-old Arabic tradition of nargileh, or hubblybubbly. Choose from fragrances of fruit tobacco, or for those preferring a stronger hit try ajami at El-Falamanki, Sodeco.
Chopard 01 351 925
t. 01 333 456.
t. 01 212 712
Nuts Aplenty At this time of the year the streets are filled with the aroma of roasting chestnuts as vendors line the streets while roasting these seasonal snacks on the spot.
Something Sweet If you have a sweet tooth, get down to Le Bristol Hotel and pick up a few homemade Holiday cakes. You won’t mind gaining a few kilos after tasting these delights. t. 01 351 400
Something Local Kickback and relax on Hamra’s busy thoroughfare. Watch the world go by as you drink coffee and sample Lebanese cuisine at Laziz t. 01 353 433
An International Affair Lebanon is renowned for supplying the best the world has on offer. Now you can taste international cuisine too at Mabu t. 01 331 777
S o d e c o
S q u a r e ,
t :
0 1 -
6 1 2
3 7 1
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Trying to move planet earth and andmountain mountainto to woo your partner in order to capture his or her heart is admirable. But you wouldn’t wish to ruin the NATURE earth in indoing doing so, would you? Be kind to Mother Earth and show your loved one that you really care by following Le Journal’s
n e ps
e ti re
glov Food T he way
Health L eave
Wine F orget
to your lover’s heart is through his or her stomach. Forget eating out with its massproduced meat and vegetables. Be romantic and cook up a meal for two at home with produce bought from Beirut’s weekly farmer’s market.
the car at home and take a romantic stroll hand in hand around the city. Find a bench on the corniche and whisper sweet nothings in each other’s ear.
the imported stuff. Sustain local markets by purchasing locallyproduced wines from Lebanon’s many boutique wineries.
Poetry Instead of buying massproduced Valentine cards write a love poem on recycled paper. But if you feel you are not up to poetry writing then at least make sure the card you buy is made from recycled materials.
Flowers
Chocolate Sweets for your sweet and sugar for your candy. If you are going to give a box of chocolates, at least save the environment and opt for a box of organic chocolates instead.
A dozen red roses is not only costly to your wallet on Valentine’s Day but to the earth as well. High levels of pesticides are used in their production. Go down to Beirut’s weekly farmer’s market and pick up a fresh organic bloom. Better still, send a packet of seeds and let your loved one grow their own for a lifetime of blooms.
Lebanon is arguably the oldest wine producing nation in the world. Evidence shows locally produced wines were exported from the ancient port city of Byblos to the Old Kingdom of Egypt during the time of the Phoenicians. Today, Château Ksara, Château Kefraya and Château Musar are world-renowned. However boutique wineries such as organic Domaine De Baal, Château Khoury and Château Belle-Vue among many more can also be found scattered across Lebanon.
Le Comptoir Vins fins et spirituex A connoisseur’s wine den, Le Comptoir is an excellent source for the finest imported vintage wines. Sharing its space with the best in cuttingedge designer accessories and furniture too, Le Comptoir mainly imports from France, and most notable the Bordeaux region. High-end wines from other wine-growing regions of France, and of Europe too such as Italy and Spain, line the shelves of this exclusive wine boutique. Also stocking the very best in Lebanese wines, Domaine des Tourelles’ Marquis des Beys for example, makes Le Comptoir a wine heaven for those who take wines seriously. 150 Rue Abdel Wahab al-Inglizi Achrafieh. t. 01 322 841 www.e-lecomptoir.com
Wine Storage Tips Le Comptoir’s wine expert Anthony Karam offers Le Journal indispensable tips on wine storage.
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•
Store wine at a temperature ranging between 10°C - 16°C. A variation of temperature between 2 to 3 degrees is acceptable
•
Humidity must not be too dry or too humid. If the atmosphere is too dry then it is harmful to the cork and the wine will be unable to breathe. Ideally humidity should be around 70%
•
To achieve such conditions, stored wines need to be isolated in a windowless storage room. If you do not have a specialist wine fridge, polystyrene packaging can be used or gravel can be spread evenly on the storage room floor.
•
Open young, quality wines two to three hours prior to serving to allow the wine to react effectively with the room temperature. For not so young wines, open just half an hour prior to serving.
out & about
Bespoke Wine Tasting Excursions
Boutique Wineries
Create your own wine tasting excursion. Available throughout the year, the excursions travel the expanse of the Bekaa in search of Lebanon’s boutique wineries. If time eludes you then sign up for one of Club Grappe’s gastronomic dinner events or cheese and wine evenings instead. t. 03 611 603 www.clubgrappe.com
Château Khoury Enjoying a privileged location on the eastern foothills of the Lebanese mountains, this winery produces high quality wines. Dhour, Zahle. t. 08 801 160
Domaine de Baal Situated a few kilometers from the Roman temple dedicated to Bacchus on the heights of Zahlé is family run Domaine de Baal winery where smooth high quality wines are produced. Events are planned throughout the year. Zahlé, Bekaa Valley. t. 08 811 330
Karam Winery Situated in picturesque Jazzine where vines are said to have been planted for thousands of years even prior to Roman rule. t. 03 373 703 www.karamwinery.com
The 2nd Food and Wine Festival Educate your palate as Club Grappe and Zouk Mikhael Municipality invite you to sample gourmet food and wine products. Including a Culinary Art show with TV personality Chef Chadi Zeitouni, a regional wine tasting conquest with international French and American wine experts is also planned. Zouk Mikhael, Al Bayt Al Hourafi 10 to 13 December 2009, 5pm to midnight. Entrance $10 per person. t. 03 611 603 www.winefestival.com
Château Belle-Vue This boutique winery abides by the motto ‘it’s all about the grapes’. Supplying some of Beirut’s haute restaurants with its fine wines, Château Belle-Vue also has events throughout the year. Amin Abdelnour Street, Bhamdoun. t. 03 221 205
A Celebration of Lebanese Wine Souk El Tayeb invites you to mingle at its Wine Fair with Lebanese wine producers for a day of wine tasting and wine presentations at the weekly farmer’s market. Souk El Tayeb Saifi Village, 12 December, 9am to 2pm. t. 01 448 129 www.soukeltayeb.com
Clos St. Thomas
“Wine and wenches empty men’s purses ” English Proverb
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Visit this historical winery and its cellars dug through rocks to a depth of 30 metres for wines of the Bekaa. Kab-Elies, Main Road, Bekaa Valley. t. 08 500 812/3 www.closstthomas.com
Pantone 1795 U
Selected objects, furniture & lighting.
Saint-Antoine Building, 150 Abdel Wahab al-Inglizi Street, 2061 0904, Beirut, Lebanon T +961 (0)1 322 786 F +961 (0)1 322 842 www.over-thecounter.com
Famed for its sun-drenched beaches in summertime, Lebanon morphs into a winter wonderland from late December onwards – in the mountains at least. Whether you are a novice gingerly stepping out for your first ski jaunt or a seasoned professional, Lebanon has a magnificent variety of ski resorts to suit all levels. Not only that, many of the resorts offer a hedonistic nightlife.
Ski Resorts Faraya Mzaar Just over an hour from Beirut is the crisp, clean air of Mzaar. With such an easy-to-reach location and with over 80km of ski tracks spread over 42 slopes, it makes for an ideal weekend getaway. The resort is also famous for partying. This is where the beautiful hangout and party all night long at some of the country’s most exclusive nightspots. For further information go to www.skimzaar.com
Mzaar Winterfest 2010 Refuge Slope and Terrace
An annual event towards the end of January that invites all skiers and snowboarders to compete for the title of the best rider in a huge air and border cross competition. Do not miss the great Fire Dragon Show - 19, 20, 21 February. The CoreUPT team, the best worldwide, will be at the Refuge Slope offering a unique night show. Featuring the fire dragon descent performed by all ski instructors followed by the breathtaking firework show, the free Ski by night open to all ski lovers and a huge party in the presence of the riders. All shows rely on favourable weather conditions. t. 03 888 068
Laklouk Sky Resort Laqlouq is a winter and summer resort, situated on a plateau at an altitude between 1750m and 2000m, and encircled by jagged ridges and terraces bearing thousands of trees. In addition to alpine skiing, it is also one of the best resorts suited for cross country skiing. Mostly visited by families, Laqlouq had its first ski lift installed in 1958, followed by major enhancements to the slopes and the creation of a qualified ski school. Activities begin from January.
The Intercontinental Kids’ Club
t. 09 430 006 www.lakloukresort.com
Xtrem Paintball
The Cedars With its highest peak at 2095m this picturesque location just past the small town of Bcharre is one of Lebanon’s older ski resorts. The perfect destination for skiing and snowboard both for families or individuals it is also an excellent place to relax in its more traditional venues. It is well worth the drive from Beirut.
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An array of seasonal events aimed at the young ones of the family. From theatre to face painting, there is endless entertainment for kids during December and January. For a complete list of events and times call The InterContinental Kids’ Club. t. 09 340 100 What could be more exhilarating than paintballing in the snow? Experience both nighttime and daytime games up in the open air of Mazaar where everyone can play paintball. Always check before heading up as the game is dependent on favourable weather conditions. t. 03 489 191 www.xtrem-paintball.com
Mzaar Sporting Club
A ski school for winter sports’ lovers for all ages regardless of ability levels and needs offering the guidance of no less than 50 certified ski and snowboard instructors. Lessons in skiing and snowboarding for the complete season, weekends or just holidays, tuition is also offered to groups or private individuals. t. 09 958 203 www.mzaarsporting.org
Group Z
Private ski lessons for the morning, afternoon or a complete day for all age groups. Offering weekend packages too, with or without accommodation, this popular school requests you call two days in advance in order to secure places. Pick up points across Beirut. t. 03 696 962 or 71-696 962
Igloo
A trendy gastro pub, whose structure, as the name suggests, mimics that of an igloo. Dance away the night as after midnight the place morphs into a nightclub. t. 09 341 400.
La Refuge
Complete with terrace and situated within the InterContinental Mzaar, this space serves fondue favourites. t. 09 340 100
The history of Lebanon’s performing arts is as rich and varied as the Lebanese landscape itself; no more so than in the winter season. Theatre doors open as the Lebanese return to the cities and towns from their summer hideaways in the mountains. Theatres, situated mainly in the capital, put on performances that reflect national and international attitudes. World renowned Casino du Liban just north of the capital has dazzling shows to tantalize and tease, while other theatres show musicals, plays and recitals.
ImproBeirut
Casino Du Liban, Jounieh [ 09 853 222 ] Alma Latina Carmen Mota 2 5 November to 13 December. A spectacular Spanish dance show awaits.
The first to introduce interactive theatre to the streets of Beirut, theatre director and filmmaker Lucien Bourjeily challenges social norms as theatre is used as a force for positive change. From Sunday 17 December and on every Sunday until 10 January barriers are further pushed back in a play without a text, Black and White, or Abyad Asswad. The first ever theatre sports’ show in Lebanon & the Middle East Black and White allows audience members to shout out a theme, usual within a social context, to the team of actors on stage. The teams – black and white – act the situation out and as deemed by the audience themselves, the best group performance of the theme wins points in what promises to be a battle of the social conscience. Beryte Theatre, Damas Street Adlieh.
Night of Fire – Cuba 18 December to 3 January. The Spanish composer and guitarist Benise invites you on a journey of Cuba Salsa, Argentinean Tango, African Tribal Rhythms, and Brazilian Samba. For Special New Year’s Eve performances go to www. cdl.com.lb
Antigone de Sophocle Mise en scène de Ania Temler 9 to 11 December at 8.30pm. ETC .. de et avec S ammy Khayyath 26, 27 and 31 December continuing on the 2,3,7,8,9 and 10 January. Achrafieh de et avec Joe Kodeih 14 to 31 January. Odeon Theater, Antelias [ 04 411 780 ]
Les Heures Noires 1 7 to 19 December. A Recital of Christmas Carols 29 December only.
Mariam, a play in Arabic embracing the festive season with a story about Mary and the Christmas Spirit. 22 November to January.
Nabil el Ouzon’s Viva La Diva 20 to 31 January.
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Monnot Theatre, Rue de l’Universite Saint Joseph Achrafieh [ 01 202 422 ]
Dawar Shams Theatre, Tayouneh Roundabout [ 01-381290 ].
Abdo Nawas’ Requiem for arts 7 to 10 and 14 to 17 January.
For reservations call 71 620 086. For more information on Lucien Bourjeily go to www.bourjeily.com
Nathalie Kattura’s Filmou 5 to 7 February. Fouad Yammine’s Chech Bech 25 to 28 February and 4 to 7 March.
Aresco Palace Theatre, Hamra. For programme call 01 745 906. Babel, Cairo Street Hamra. For programme call 01 744 033.
Arts and usy Box Lounge Crafts za, Hamra Crowne Pla ur
B
out & abou
t
Children are simply adored and fussed over in the Middle East, and Lebanon is no exception. Having children with you is guaranteed to open doors and hearts and in the process to create new friends. Major brands of disposable diapers and baby foods can be found in supermarkets for those younger members of the clan so there is nothing to worry about there. Finding open spaces for your young ones to run around in is quite difficult. However, there are a few parks dotted around the country, and of course play areas in malls, as well as a host of other leisure activities for kids which will keep them busy from dawn till dusk.
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Art is integral to Lebanon and stretches back to the days of Phoenicia. Playing host to a vibrant art scene, including cinema, Beirut is filled with numerous galleries and alternative art spaces displaying regional and international works of contemporary and traditional art. Le Journal points you to some of the city’s best. Beirut Art Centre
Sfeir-Semler Gallery
Since January 2009, Beirut has excelled itself within the realms of the arts with the opening of the Beirut Art Centre (BAC), adding to an increasingly diverse art scene. However, the distinct difference this time is that the venue is public, or a non-profit association. A launch pad for local, regional and international artists and cultural practice, the cavernous two-tiered space also exposes local talent to the global art scene. Exhibitions: Present to 16 January 2010 ‘America’ – What does ‘America’ mean in our collective unconscious? 26 January to 9 April 2010 Places at Last by Walid Sadek plus a solo exhibition by Emily Jacir.
Beirut’s ‘white cube’, Sfeir-Semler Commercial Art Gallery exhibits the very latest in contemporary Arab, Lebanese and international artists. Set in an industrial wasteland which lends itself perfectly to the 1000m2 austere interior, the gallery aims to support Middle East and Lebanese artists by offering a space in which to exhibit. Set within the city’s eastern periphery, the gallery is not easy to find, but for those art buffs out there wishing to locate and purchase some of the Middle East’s emerging and more renowned artists, it is well worth the effort. Exhibitions: 9 December to 6 February ‘Noise’ Curated by Negar Azimi and Babak Radboy for Bidoun.
Beirut Art Centre Jisr El Wati, Building 13, Street 97, Zone 66 Adlieh, Beirut t. 01 397 018 www.beirutartcentre.org
out & about
Espace Kettaneh Kunigk (Tanit) A two-tiered space exhibiting contemporary arts in its different forms. Exhibitions: 15 December to 8 January, ‘Collection Particuliere Libanaise’, Alex de Bar, Bartlett, Ferlan, Finden, Van de Velde. 21 January to 27 February Roy Samaha ‘On An Empty Mind’. Gefinor Centre Block E, Clemenceau Hamra t. 01 738 706 Ayyam Gallery A new gallery of 6000 square foot in the heart of Beirut dedicated to promoting the finest contemporary Middle Eastern art worldwide and representing some of Syria and the Arab World’s leading established and emerging artists. Exhibitions: 10 December to
22 January ‘Asaad Arabi’ 4 February ‘Young Collectors Auction’ and 11 February to 13 March ‘Mustapha Fathi’. Beirut Tower, Ground Floor, Zeitoune Street, Across from Beirut Marina Solidere. t. 70 535 301 www.ayyamgallery.com
Art lounge Evolving to become a unique contemporary art exhibition space and a cultural events host, Art Lounge has featured hundreds of art shows, music events, cultural happenings including fashion & design. Check the website for ongoing events.
Alice Mogabgab Gallery An exclusive gallery situated in the hub of east Beirut Achrafieh’s district. Exhibitions: December 2009 to 16th January Petits formats pour grands collectionneurs. 20 Lebanese and international artists display their work.
Jisr El Nahr Karatina t. 03 997 676 www.artlounge.net
Karam Building Rue Achrafieh. Achrafieh t. 03 210 424
Gemmayzeh Rue Gouraud t. 01 584 040
South Border Gallery A two-tiered art space set in two fashionable Gemmayzeh apartments showcasing an ongoing mix of South American artists in the very heart of Lebanon.
www.alicemogabgab.com
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The Upstairs Gallery Lebanon’s only exclusively African contemporary art gallery displaying works of arts, mainly paintings and some sculptures, from renowned African artists. Exhibition: February, ‘Out of Africa’ 527 Rue Gouraud, Renno Building, 1st floor Gemmayzeh. t. 01 585 151 Roof68 Finger painting Workshops – these Saturday workshops are intended for people of ages 15 and over and aim to facilitate the ability of self-expression through the interesting connection between the physical act of touching the paint and connecting with something important inside one’s self. Other weekly activities include illustration workshops,
Tannous Building Quarantine. t. 01 566 550 www.sfeir-semler.de
painting workshops and photography workshops too. Achrafieh (behind Spinney’s). t. 03 466 764 www.roof68.com Running Horse Contemporary Art Space One of Beirut’s latest art spaces showcasing Lebanese and international artists. Exhibitions: December Desires, Nightmare and Dreams - A Group Show with Carlo Keshishian, Clara Gebran, Katia Traboulsi, Nathalie Labaki, Aaron Johnson. The theme of the exhibit pertains to the inner world of the artist’s mind or interior spaces. Sleep Comfort Depot, Medawar Beirut t. 01 562 778
Galerie Janine Rubeiz Janine Rubeiz Gallery. Exhibitions: 2 December – 30 December A jewellery Exhibition by Virginie Corm , 2 December to 30 December ‘Silent Memories’ by Hugette El khoury Caland, 6 to 28 January Rim El Jundi and during February Joseph Harb. 1 Avenue Charles de Gaulle. Majdalani Building, Raouche. t. 01 868 290 www.galeriejaninerubeiz.com
Signature of Continuous Creativity ‌
Le Mall, Sin El Fil, t: 01 498 649, m: 03 710 713, e: sesame.shermine@gmail.com
Le Mall, Sin El Fil, Tel: 01 - 49 86 49, Mob: 03 - 710 713, E-mail: sesame.shermine@gmail.com
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