FALL ISSUE > 2010
>FALL >FALL
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>design seekers
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>souks & artisanat
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>shopping
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>ancient heartlands
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>performing arts
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>useful information
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As summer gradually fades into the fall season, an ideal opportunity is presented to discover more of the country than just its luxurious beaches. Drive along the coast and soak up breathtaking views of the Mediterranean or head inland to the Bekaa Valley with its world-famous wineries and rich archaeological history. Head to any of the country’s nature reserves and watch migrating birds on their journey from Europe. Discover the rich biodiversity in Lebanon by embarking on an organized trip and enjoy breath-taking landscapes all around the country. And for more cultural offerings, the capital is simply awash with world-class art galleries exhibiting national, regional and international works of art. Worldclass shopping awaits with hip, designer boutiques as well as luxuries malls and souks, not to mention Beirut’s hip nightspots and world-renown restaurants. Le Journal dishes out the very best attractions the country has to offer and wishes you a wonderful stay.
>Unravelling Amioun’s secrets 18 >art scene
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>museums
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>GOURMET
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>EVENTS lebanon
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>ACTIVITIES
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/ 7 City News Privilege rima@citynewsme.net editors:
Derek Issacs Helen Assaf Natalie Jarudi Writers:
Derek Issacs Stephen Wakeem Sara Persson Photographer:
Rasha Shalhoub Art Director:
FALL ISSUE > 2010
Genia Kodash Advertising:
Randa El Khatib Mekkaoui +961 3 385 906 randamek@hotmail.com Printed by:
The publisher regrets they cannot accept responsibility for errors contained within this publication. Opinions and views within the publication are not necessarily those of the publisher. Readers are advised to check all dates and locations and companies mentioned before travelling to them as things can change. Always check the safety record and standards of any activities mentioned within these pages as le Journal will not beheld responsible for any accidents or losses that may occur.
RAIDY www.raidy.com
Cover: Title: Damascus,2010 Dimensions: 91.5 X 190 cm Material: Acrylic on Canvas By: Samia HALABY Courtesy of: Ayyam Gallery
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>design seekers Barjis For Hala Habis it was a trip to India that particularly stands out as early inspiration for her boutique Barjis. “The mix of colors so effortlessly and naturally blended together by the locals,” she says, “was amazing”. Today Habis herself blends fabrics, textures and colors to produce a range of pouffes and cushions that have an identity all of their own. As well as the collection housed in-store, Habis also accepts custom orders, producing one of a kind pieces for that individual touch. The fabrics are sourced from high-end European brands such as Rubelli, Sahco Hesslein, Dedar and the Designers Guild, as well as from the local market. Utmost in Habis’s mind is the quest for quality and the tactile properties of the material between her hands. When blended together to create a Barjis piece, the result is eclectic with a contemporary ethnic edge. Beyond their style credentials, the labor of love that goes into each item is evident in the fact that Habis gives them all names. The Barjis boutique on Sadat Street in the Hamra district is also Habis’s atelier. “It’s both practical and interactive to have the atelier and shop in the same place,” she says. What she enjoys the most is the interactive element of the meeting between artist and client. An eternal interest in people’s “psyche and needs” is, she says, also what drives her in her work. At the same time, her artistic outpouring is the means through which, she states, she strives to bring happiness and comfort to other people’s lives. The name Barjis comes from an old Farsi game that once upon a time was played on a velvet cloth with brass pegs and shells. Although the pastime may not be familiar to most, a number of Habis’s pouffes also incorporate an embroidered version of it in their fabric. The result is much like the Barjis boutique itself: a stylish and colorful take on life’s tapestry of traditions. t: 03 210 348. shop@barjisdsign.com
Malika
Pink Henna
Malika prides itself on using the highest quality materials and paying close attention to technique. Initially beginning as a hobby, Malika’s love for flowers inspires her designs of highly sought after and original hand-bags. Many clutches are adorned with flower motifs. From day to night, Malika is a signature statement. The winter collection is python-infused or perhaps you prefer to customize your own clutch. Malika is available in Beirut at Cream, Saifi Village and le Le Balcon des Createurs Gemmayzeh as well as in Egypt, Kuwait and the UAE. For further details: malikadiab@hotmail.com
If you are the type of person who loves rummaging in antique or thrift shops, then Pink Henna is the place for you! Run by Naela Nammour, this fun, two-tiered boutique is simply a collector’s paradise. Specializing in glass, furniture, tea sets and a host of other curios from the 1940s to the 1970s, there are also handmade cushions, kimonos, cool jelabias and towels, as well costume jewelry on offer too. Collectable and funky handbags are also available as are original lamps and mirrors. Many of these collectable items were brought by Naela to Beirut from France, where she gives her customers an authentic curiosity shop experience. Pharon Street, Mar Mikael. 70 980 361
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>souks & artisanat
The ancient cities in Lebanon are unique in that they are the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Le Journal invites you to explore a selection of the country’s ancient attractions that color this unique and wonderful landscape.
glassblower of sarafand
The port city of Tyre in the south of Lebanon, once a bastion of Phoenician trade and excellence, is where mighty ships and boats docked and unloaded great wealth during the golden age of Phoenicia. Great Phoenician boatbuilding enterprises also flourished as artisans using cedar wood constructed grand and decorative ocean goers. Fast forward to 2010 and Tyre Harbour, although quite lively, appears tranquil in comparison. However, that’s not to say that it is inactive. The presentday harbours are awash with
colourful fishing boats securely tied to the piers and sit side by side cutting-edge speed boats that offer voyages into the vast expanses of the Mediterranean. Fish restaurants buzz with locals and visitors alike eager to sample the morning catch hauled back to shore by weathered fisherman. The great art of boatbuilding continues, though perhaps, not with the same vigor as once witnessed during Phoenician times. Numerous boatbuilding workshops are available around the harbour for those interested in seeing the ancient art in action.
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Sadly most of the the ancient trades that were once practiced in Sarafand by the Phoenicians, such as pottery, have died out. Another Phoenician art has managed to fare better, be it marginally. Hardly noticeable among the mechanic workshops that line the village’s main thoroughfare is Phoenicia’s last glass-blowing artisan. Step inside the glass-fronted shop and you are immediately transported into a translucent and colourful world. Hand-blown glass baubles in hues of red, blues and greens hang from the ceiling. Water jugs, tumblers and vases adorn shelves and traditional and colouful oil pourers and nargileh pipes comprise the fabulous collection too. The shop owners, the Khalifeh family, have been hand blowing glass the Phoenician way for nearly fifty years. Trading from their Sarafand atelier to passing tourists and also to artisan shops in Beirut, the employees are all family members. Apprentice can begin at as young as 12 years and continues for eight long years prior to be granted the grand title of glass blowing master. The Sarafand glassblowers are the last glassblowers in Lebanon and Is well worth the short drive from Beirut. Sarafand Glass factory, Main Road Sarafand. t: 03 906 091.
>shopping Downtown Fanning out from Place d’Etoile, original Roman roads carve gaps between an amalgamation of French and Ottoman architecture where ancient mosques and churches sit side by side. Over on the western flank, an old synagogue has been renovated and awaits its congregation while to the east is Place des Martyrs, which has become defined by the recently-built Mohammed al Amin Mosque. In between it all are some of the capital’s most exclusive boutiques and pavement cafes, all inviting you to sit back and do a spot of people-watching as centuries-old memories whisper tales of the orient in your ear.
Le Journal gets to grips with the capital’s favourite consumer haunts. From under-the-radar designer boutiques to famous chains and some of the region’s most exclusive shopping malls, Beirut is truly an eclectic retail experience. Verdun
Bourj Hammoud
Tree-lined boulevards adorn the upscale district of Verdun. With sophisticated skywardbound architecture, this commercial and residential area forms the capital’s western edge, and is one of Beirut’s most sought after retail locales. With its main retail rue lined with sumptuous shopping malls, large, glassfront designer stores and chic cafés, even its side streets yield pleasant surprises. For it is here that independent bijou boutiques both display their chic brands from the Arab world and beyond.
With such names as Arax and Yerevan adorning a clutter of narrow streets, you might be inclined to believe you have left Lebanon. However, there is no need for passports just yet. You have quite simply arrived at Beirut’s unique and historic Armenian Quarter. The aromas permeating this vibrant community overwhelm the senses in almost every way possible. Awash with rows upon rows of commercial shopping streets, Bourj Hammoud promises to leave even the most ardent retail therapist gasping for breath.
Kaslik Conveniently situated off the main Beirut to Jounieh highway, Kaslik is suburban shopping at its best. A vibrant retail thoroughfare lined with the best in local and international designer brands make the trip outside the city boundaries well worth it. Pavement cafés afford panoramic views of nearby Jounieh Bay, Harrisa Mountain and the glamorous Casino Du Liban, while cinema complexes, bars and nightclubs offer entertainment well after sundown.
Achrafieh Achrafieh is a newest beacon of savvy chic. Shady thoroughfares lined with Ottoman and French colonial period architecture tastefully merge with ultra modern tower blocks to create one of the capital’s most established and avant-garde neighbourhoods. With a multitude of fine dining opportunities, coffee houses, and chic shopping avenues and malls, plus a host of upscale nightlife venues, there is plenty to keep you busy both night and day.
boutiques, both independent and chains, this luxury mall could easily be found in Europe. With over 200 shops, it also boasts a cinema complex and an amazing array of eateries. t: 01 222 888 www.abc.com.lb
ABC Mall, Dbayeh >>> ecently renovated, the mall R
is strategically located on the highway a few miles north of the capital. A wide selection of clothes, shoes, household items, books easily satisfy your shopping whims. And for the small ones, check Kidsville. Dbayeh Highway. t: 04 416 000 www.abc.com.lb
Saifi Village Saifi Village, or Le Quartier des Arts, is a charming residential enclave amid a bevy of traditional Levantine architecture. Perfect for a leisurely stroll, it is easy to forget that this ‘village’ sits neatly in the hub of the bustling capital. Numerous antique stores, art galleries, a wealth of chic boutiques and designer stores line the cobble-stoned streets. A trendy café sits in the ‘village’ centre and haute-cuisine restaurants on its periphery ensuring that taste buds are truly tingled. Saifi Village truly demonstrates to visitors Beirut’s claim as a regional cultural hub. In a further visionary twist, Solidere have turned the village into a landmark for the arts. After sponsoring several cultural and artistic events within in Beirut City Centre itself, the company has created a distinguished art gallery known as ‘Piece Unique’ within the village itself.
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City Mall, Dora >>>
Popular with weekend shoppers, this mall boasts three floors of retail outlets including a large cinema complex and a bevy of eateries. Boulevard Dora Banks, Nahr El Mot, Beirut t: 01 905 555
Once referred to as the Champs-Elysees of the east, this historical district is again ushering in an era of decadence. Surrounded by world class universities, the chic urban quarter even boasts its own park – the Sanayeh Public Gardens. While Hamra’s main thoroughfare attracts shoppers seeking the more familiar international brand names, edgier brands are joining the ranks. On and off this retail rue, a maze of streets is scattered with independent boutiques and modernistic furniture galleries promising a day of absolute retail therapy.
Le Mall,Sin El Fil >>>
This five-tiered shopping is set within the Habtoor Grand Hotel Convention Center & Spa with over 100 shops to tempt even the most discerning shopper with international brand names, a wide selection of food and beverages, and a children’s crèche and play area. Horsh Tabet Sin El Fil t: 01 485 685.
Dunes, Verdun >>>
A spacious inner atrium greets shoppers at this elegant and state-of-the-art mall. Containing boutiques for the more discerning shopper the mall also has a cinema complex. www.dunes.com.lb
Beirut Souks, Solidere >>> he largest shopping centre T in Lebanon has opened its doors earmarking the capital as the region’s major area for shopping and leisure with live music & street entertainment every weekend. www.solidere.com/souks2
Shopping Malls
ABC Mall, Achrafieh >>> ousing some of the city’s finest H
Hamra
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7 0 0 SQUARE M ETERS OF TRENDY FASHI ON TAT E N - M A R I N A TOW E R B UI L D I N GS - B E HIND THE NE W F OUR S E AS ONS HOTE L - Tel: 961 1 365357 - 961 1 365389
Byblos
If you would like to discover the place that gave birth to the modern alphabet, head to picturesque Byblos. A stronghold of culture, history and beauty, this photogenic city by the sea is waiting to be explored. The ancient yet luminous fishing harbour strikes you first, closely followed by the elegantly weathered Roman ruins, old souq and crusader castle. The place is so tiny it feels like a hidden treasure. Not encompassing too large of a distance, the whole of Byblos can be walked quite comfortably. For both the international jet-set variety or the more low-key traveler, Byblos is a must-see destination.
Sidon
Soak up the looks, flavours and of course the style of this great Capital of South Lebanon and first home of the Phonecians. The striking shoreline and intense local flavours provide a sublime backdrop to the city’s history. Like Tyre this city has bore witness to many conflicts, since its birth more than 6000 years ago. The castle, khan and other historical sites convey a sense of the numerous conquests by Persia, Greece, Rome and the Arabs that is quite unique. Though today, this city is best known for its copper and brass trays, production of engraved wooden boxes and furniture, olive oil soap and bone-handled cutlery.
Tyre
Just 81 km from Beirut, sun-soaked Tyre is much more than just the longest stretch of white sand beach in the country. Steeped in a long and dramatic history, the souks of Tyre flank tiny restaurants that sell fish in kayak-shaped platter accompanied by local delicacies. Far from the hustle and bustle of Beirut, here you can breathe and take things easy as the local population is wonderfully hospitable and warm. The expanse of white sand on one side, with palm trees and banana plants on the other renders this one of the most beautiful locations along the Lebanese coastline. And like many other parts of Lebanon the city holds its share of Unesco World Heritage-listed Roman ruins and Phoenician findings.
Beiteddine
Delight in fresh mountain air, while overlooking the beautiful valley that stretches to the Mediterranean Sea – all from the top of Beit Eddine village and the alluringly beautiful castle of the same name. Ideally located 900 metres above sea level, this magnificent masterpiece from the early 1800s offers the best of Lebanese Italian-inspired architecture. Constructed by architect Emir Bechir Chehab to reflect the power and glory of the Ottoman emperor, it took 30 years to complete. In summertime the castle plays host to one of the leading festivals of the Middle East. It is a wonderful opportunity to see the huge vaulted stables, the main courtyards, marble portals, water fountains, and luxurious hammams in all their splendour.
Balbaak
>ancient heartlands
Lebanon has always offered visitors a taste for great style and luxury. Le Journal visits five spectacular historical locations from North to South.
Compared to the grandiose elegant structures of Balbaak even the Coliseum seems futile. This is the ‘City of the Sun’, or as it is better known, ‘the most prominent ancient site in the Middle East’ and a must-see for any visitor to Lebanon. Considered one of the wonders of the world, the majestic courtyard is always full of visitors who travel the world to delight in the formidable historical architecture. A visit to Balbaak is by far the best way to discover the ancient and luxurious country of Lebanon and its people throughout the centuries. For those who delight in art and history there are countless interesting and valuable antique details to discover.
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CHAHWAN
>performing arts Guests fortunate enough to step foot in what is considered to be the jewel in the crown of the Middle East – Lebanon – would be hard pushed not to notice the abundance of Roman amphitheatres in both Beirut and the Lebanese hinterland itself. It would seem that the history of Lebanon’s performing arts, with its immemorial roots, is as rich as the landscape itself. Coupled with a solid tradition of Arabic storytelling – al-hakawati – it will come as no surprise that Lebanon is at the helm of theatre production and innovation within the Middle East. At the crossroads between east and west where a civilization flourished, al hakawati passed on the history of Lebanese traditions
through folktales and stories of Arabic heritage. Today the al-hakawati tradition has developed its art and now transports its oral traditions in the guise of the modern theatre, or performing arts: its actors, actresses, directors and playwrights now act as the modern-day storytellers. A plaque on St. Joseph Church (Santa) in Gemmayzeh testifies: It was in this present-day place of worship—a residential dwelling back then—that Maroun Necache become a pioneer in Lebanese theatre. Using his salon as the theatre itself, Necache put on his first play entitled Al Bakhil in 1847. And from that point theatre embarked upon a unique journey within Lebanon and the region, mirroring the cultured and grand Lebanese society to which it performed.
Theatre Directory Al Madina, Clemenceau, t: 01 371 962
Babel, Cairo Street Hamra, t: 01 744 033
Aresco Palace, Hamra, t: 01 745 907
Theatre Beirut, t: 01 397 334
Casino Du Liban, Jounieh www.cdl.com.lb t: 09 853 222
Dawar Shams Theatre, Tayouneh Roundabout, t: 01381 290
Theatre Montaigne, The French Cultural Centre), t: 01 420 230
Athenee, Jouneih, t: 09 912 321
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Odeon Theater Antelias,, t: 04 411 780
Monot Theatre, Rue de l’Universite Saint Joseph Achrafieh, t: 01 212 151 Theatre Monnot, Rue de l’Universite Saint Joseph Achrafieh. t: 01 202422
CHAHWAN
Useful Numbers
>useful information Bargaining Although it is great fun and acceptable at a number of places, please do not bargain in supermarkets and outlets selling food as you will be deemed to be nothing but ill-mannered.
Dress Miniskirts are a common sight in Lebanon, as are Islamic veils. However, one must still respect the cultural norms within certain areas of the country or districts of the city. If in doubt, look around you and follow suit. Headscarves are usually required for females when visiting mosques, and shoulders must be covered when visiting churches or other religious places.
Getting Round Walking is the best way of getting around and the most logical place to start is Beirut Corniche. Find unexpected surprises off the beaten track along the way, but should you get lost, then simply ask any local for help as no one will refuse to come to the rescue of a stranded tourist. Or try a shared taxi, or ‘serveece’. Pre-booked taxis are more costly but much more luxurious and well worth the extra.
Health Lebanon has top-notch medical services; be it hospitals or pharmacies. No vaccine is required prior to visiting Lebanon.
Languages Arabic is the Lebanese national language. However, it is common to speak French and English. At times Lebanese Arabic, English and French are often combined in one sentence.
Money The official currency is the Lebanese Pound, or Lira. The US Dollar is also in use. Most establishments accept international credit cards such as MasterCard and American Express and ATMs are in abundance throughout the country, and there are money exchange offices throughout Beirut and major towns and cities.
Photos and Videos The country offers ample opportunity for scenic photo shots. However, if you are near a military base or a VIP’s residents, then be advised to put your camera away.
Security Compared to other countries of the world street crime in Lebanon is rare. This is put down to its tight-knit communities which allow streets to be safe both day and night.
Telephone The first two digits of Lebanese numbers are the area code. Telephone kiosks are found throughout Beirut and most major towns and cities. Prepaid calling cards are available from the post office and some newsagents.
Tipping Porters, guides, waiters, hotel staff, taxi drivers etc are all usually tipped. The average tipping rate in restaurants is 10 – 15%, whereas with other services between 2000 and 10,000LL is acceptable.
Weather Lebanon gets 300 days of sunshine a year Coastal temperatures rarely fall below 15 degrees C during the rainy winter, and may reach in access of 31 degrees C on average in the humid summer. In higher altitudes the air becomes drier and fresher. Major snowfalls allow skiing between December and April and the spring and autumn seasons see average temperatures of 21 degrees C.
Achrafieh – a bijou space with a Romanesque ornamental water feature flanked by shrubbery and benches. Sanayeh Garden, near Hamra – over a century old this oasis of greenery offers city slickers a respite from the concrete jungle and is popular with families. Horch Tabet Garden, (Beirut Pine Forest) Fouad Chehab Street, Horch Tabet – an immaculate modern space with lawns ideal for picnicking. Sioufi Garden, Rue Jean Jalkh, Achrafieh – with panoramic views across the city this space with its squares, winding paths, pools and play area appeals to all ages and is worth visiting. Gibran Khalil Gibran Garden, Downtown – a small open green space with a working fountain and a statue of Gibran Khalil Gibran in the centre.
Movie Theatres
Water Being a water rich nation in a water deficient region you will find water in abundance. However, it is advised not drink tap water unless you are certain of its cleanliness.
Landmarks and Public Spaces Pigeon Rocks, Raouche – a monumental natural arch jutting up from the Mediterranean and is a great place to sit at one of the roadside cafes and watch the sun set. Solidére Clock Tower, Downtown – originally built by the French in the early 20th century this signifies the very centre of Downtown. Place des Martyrs, Martyr’s Square, Downtown – a vast open space in honour of national martyrs. Jeita Grotto – is a compound of crystallized caves in Lebanon located 20 km north of Beirut in the Valley of Nahr al-Kalb (Dog River). This grotto is made up of two limestone caves, upper galleries and a lower cave through which a 6230 m long river runs. Geologically, the caves provide a tunnel or escape route for the underground river. In this cave and galleries, the action of water in the limestone has created cathedral-like vaults full of various sizes, colors and shapes of stalactites and stalagmites, majestic curtains and fantastic rock formations. The total length of the cave is more than 9000 m and there is one among the biggest stalactites in the world hanging 8,20 m. The grotto accommodates a huge hall with a distance of 108 m from the ceiling till the water level. St Nicholas Place, Charles Malek Avenue
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City Mall / Dora 01-899 993 Empire Dunes / Verdun St, Verdun. 01 792 123. www.circuit-empire.com.lb Empire Galaxy / Gallery Semaan, Hazmieh. 01 544 051. www.circuit-empire.com.lb Empire Sodeco / Sodeco Square. 01 616 706. www.circuit-empire.com.lb Empire Sofil / Charles Malek Avenue, Tabaris Achrafieh. 01 328 806. www.circuit-empire.com.lb Grand Cinemas ABC / Achrafieh, ABC Mall. 01 209 208. www.grandcinemas.com/lb/ Grand Cinema Concorde / Verdun St. 01 343 143. www.grandcinemas.com/lb/
Circuit Planete 2000 / Zouk Mikhael. 09 221 363. Circuit Planete Saint Elie / Antelias. 04 406 706. Empire Espace / Zouk Mikhael. 09 212 516. www.circuit-empire.com.lb Kaslik Cinema / Jounieh. 09 912 503.
International Calls 100 Information/Ogero 1515 Airport 150 Beirut Port 01 580 211 Civil Defence 125 Doctors at Home 01 444 400 Red Cross 140 Police 111 Baabda 05 920 152 Beirut 01 300 575 Jounieh 09 917 000 Tripoli 06 822 222 Fire Brigade 175 Bachoura 01 655 111 Beirut 01 310 105/155, 01 445 000 Jounieh 09 931 725 Sidon 07 720 061 Tripoli 06 431 017 Zahle 08 822 222
Taxi Companies Geryes Taxi Taxi Premiere
01 332 747 1260 or 01 389 222
Allo Taxi
1213 or 01-366 661
Embassies Algeria Argentina Armenia Australia Austria Belgium Brazil Canada Chile China Columbia Denmark France Gabon Germany Greece Holland Hungary India Indonesia Iran Italy Japan Jordan Kuwait Malta Mexico Morocco Norway Pakistan Paraguay Philippines Poland Qatar Romania Russia Saudi Arabia Senegal Serbia Spain Sri Lanka Sudan Switzerland Tunisia Turkey UAE Ukraine United Kingdom Uruguay USA Vatican Venezuela Yemen
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CHAHWAN
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Since producing Beirut’s first street atlas, Zawarib has branched out to promote internal tourism across Lebanon. Beginning with Amioun, it is launching a series of free maps designed to bring out the explorer in everyone. Le Journal invited Zawarib to share its map and the secrets and Amioun with its readers.
>Northern star: Unravelling Amioun’s secrets
It is estimated that Saint Simeon Stylites church was first built during the Crusades. Destroyed in 1773, it has been rebuilt and modified since. The church houses 40 icons, the oldest of which dates back to the late 17th/early18th Century.
Saints Sergios & Bakhos Monastery (Mar Sarkis & Bakhos)
Located on a hilltop in south Amioun, this monastery was built during the Ottoman Era. Its rich collection of icons, painted by the artist Mekhayel Mehanna Al-Qodsi, is considered a masterpiece of Greek Catholic art. Lazar houses were built near the monastery to quarantine lepers and prevent outbreaks of the disease amongst the villagers, but these structures have long been demolished.
In Lebanese dialect, al-sheer refers to a steep cliff, which Al-Sheer of Amioun clearly is. The cavities carved into the cliff are what give the
Al-Sheer
Amongst the largest churches in Amioun, the Saint George of the Crypt Cathedral derives its name from a subterranean structure, which can be accessed through an opening made in the floor. Legend states that a tunnel links the cathedral to a tower near the Dormition of the Virgin Mary church (Kanissat Sayidat al-Niyah), also in Amioun. Built on a Roman temple whose elements remain part of the structural and decorative architecture, the cathedral’s apse was erected during the Crusades. The cathedral houses 80 icons and iconostasis, amongst which is the oldest icon in Amioun, dating back to 1760.
Saint George of the Crypt Cathedral (Mar Jawarjious al-Dahliz)
Saint Simeon Stylites Church (Mar Semaan al‘Amoudi)
Built in the 19th century during the Ottoman Era, the Saint Domitius Monastery was erected on the remains of a pre-existing monastery from the 12th century. The sixteen icons that adorn the church’s interior date back to the mid-19th century and originate from Jerusalem.
For Amioun locals, the olive tree has long been connected to their sustainability and is synonymous with great wealth, as it brings its owner immeasurable riches. The valley is dotted with ancient green olive trees, mostly more than a few thousand years old. A few are over five metres in diametre, making Amioun one of the most important locations in the north (and maybe in Lebanon) for housing the largest and oldest olive trees.
Olive Tree
Dating back to the Crusades, a rare fact amongst Lebanon’s churches, the Saint Phocas Church in Amioun is also the only church in Lebanon that contains Frankish-style frescoes as well as a mixture of both Greek and Latin inscriptions. Saint Phocas is venerated as a martyr by both the Catholic and Eastern Orthodox Churches. His legend may have been a fusion of the lives of three different men of the same name: Phocas of Antioch, Phocas the bishop of Sinope, and Phocas the Gardener.
Saint Phocas Church (Mar Fawqa)
natural landmark its unique identity. Dating back to the Roman era, the 26 carvings with square openings were initially used as tombs and then later inhabited, as proven by crosses etched onto some walls and ceiling (recently discovered by local artist Nickolas El-Ojaimi). Similar tombs can be found in the eastern, more-rocky area of Amioun. A domed church from the 19th century tops the cliff and is dedicated to Saint John.
Saint Domitius Monastery (Mar Domitius)
The highlights
Al Dar Quartier
A large square lying on the south-western gate of the old town, this area used to be a large hole, surrounded by carved stone walls and
Al Ramieh Square
Considered one of the oldest areas in town, the architectural and sculptural diversity of Mar Semaan is immediately evident. According to local legend, some of the houses remain unchanged, even from the time of the Crusades. This quartier is also characterised by several types of domes and windows, each of which is crowned by a unique architectural inscription to identify the owner of the house, and placed above two rising stones which are used as stands for flower pots. Many houses have a well that is used to gather rainfall for water use.
Mar Semaan Quartier
This tower was built in 1958 for the sole purpose of helping farmers who work in their fields to know the time of day from wherever they stood. The clock was operating with hourly chimes until the outbreak of the Lebanese civil war in 1975 when the bell was stolen. The tower was restored after the war but the local people were annoyed by the sound of its bell, especially at night, and so it has been brought to a standstill.
The Clock Tower
In 1898, the governor Naoum Basha established a seat for the government in Amioun which was to include several governmental directorates, including a police station. The original location of this building was in the Al-Dar quartier, but the female citizens protested against the passing of officers all day long in front of their houses and the executions being conducted nearby, which led to the relocation of this seat to a place away from the residential areas. Therefore, Saray Amioun was relocated to its current place in eastern Amioun on the top hill near Saint Marina Cave.
The Saray (Serail)
This is the first traffic signal that operated in Lebanon after the civil war, having been built in 1994. The engineer, George Maani (from Amioun), and Balamand University supervised its installation.
The Traffic Light
The Saint Marina Chapel used to be a Roman burial vault carved into the rock, resembling the many burial carvings in Al-Sheer. According to local legend, the cave was used by Saint Marina as a refuge to escape persecution.
In Amioun’s alleyways and on its old and historical walls lie the stories and tales of the rulers who governed this town. But each house in Al Dar (which was the stronghold of the Al Azar family during the Ottoman period) has its unique history. There is a court house and palace of the Al Azar house that holds testament of the long history of this district, as well as the house of the hostler Barbar Agha who became a governor of Tripoli, the house of Prince Haidar Al Chehabi near Al Ramieh Gate, and the house where Prince Bashir stayed. Most of these old houses were built from stones, soil, wood and bricks. Moreover, this area is rich in caves that are carved in the stone walls by the roads and the stairways.
was mainly used for the collection of rainfall and also as a water tank for all the residents. With the installation of a potable water system in the mid 20th Century, the municipality closed the hole and created a large square. There are lots of caves which can be seen directly from the square, and many more are found inside the nearby residential houses.
Saint Marina Chapel (Qadissa Marina)
The drive of 78km from Beirut will take you northwards, and to about 300 metres above sea level, where Amioun takes its place as the administrative center of the Koura District. Between the sea below and mountains behind you, Amioun offers up a breathtaking view from its vantage point on a chain of beautiful hills.
Getting there
>art scene
Playing host to a vibrant art scene, including cinema, Beirut’s cup runneth over when it comes to art galleries and alternative art spaces exhibiting both regional and international works of contemporary and traditional art. Le Journal points you to some of the city’s best.
Mark Hachem Mark Hachem opened his first art gallery entitled Galerie Mark Hachem in 1996, in the distinctive Parisian quarter of Place des Vosges. Fast forward 11 years and Galerie Mark Hachem opens its contemporary doors again but this time on prestigious Madison Avenue, New York. In June of this year, Mark Hachem returned to his roots and launched Galerie Mark Hachem here on home turf in Beirut’s Solidere District. Hachem will be exhibiting emerging artist works as well as established artists. As Mark has access to artist both in France and America, the gallery provides an opportunity for European and American artists to showcase their work in a gallery in the Middle East. Setting the tone for the newly opened Galerie Mark Hachem’s Beirut venue was sole exhibitor and famous Italian art sculptor Mauro Corda. It is from such a venue that Hachem has vowed to quench the thirst of the region’s serious art collectors with exhibitions of both Middle Eastern and international emerging and established artists. Galerie Mark Hachem, Capital Gardens, Block B Ground Floor, Salloum St, Mina el Hosn, Beirut Central District t: 01 999 313 www.markhachem.com
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Beirut. Down Town. Beirut Souks. Ayas Street. t / f: +961.1.976.906
>art scene
Beirut Art Centre Beirut Art Centre Jisr El Wati, Building 13, Street 97, Zone 66 Adlieh, Beirut. t: 01 397 018. www.beirutartcenter.org Since January 2009, Beirut has become a focal point within the art scene with the opening of the Beirut Art Center (BAC). Adding to an increasingly diverse art scene, this non-profit association is open to the public and has garnered international media attention. A launch pad for local, regional and international artists and cultural practice, the cavernous two-tiered space also exposes local talent to the global art scene. Exposure 2010 – as part of its initiative to promote innovative local talent, Beirut Art Center (BAC) is pleased to present Exposure 2010, a collective exhibition of works by emerging Lebanese artists or non-Lebanese artists residing in Lebanon. Exposure is an annual exhibition organized in partnership with Fidus Wealth Management, SGBL group to support up-and-coming artists from Lebanon by providing a platform to produce and display work that is not essentially aimed at the market. Following an open call for proposals, 11 artists were selected by a jury invited specifically for this exhibition as well as the Artistic Board of BAC (as one voice). The jury included Pierre Abi-Saab (journalist), Mirene Arsanios (co-founder of 98 weeks and art researcher), Zeynep Oz (curator), and Walid Sadek (artist). This year’s exhibition will present new works or works not yet exhibited in the country in a diverse range of media such as video, installation, photography, sound, and performance that address various themes. A catalogue featuring the work of all participants will be produced and launched at the end of the show. The catalogue will serve to document the exhibition and introduce the work of these artists to a wider public. Sfeir-Semler Gallery Tannous Building Quarantine. t: 01 566 550 www.sfeir-semler.de Beirut’s ‘white cube’, Sfeir-Semler
Commercial Art Gallery exhibits the very latest in contemporary Arab, Lebanese and international artists. Set in an industrial wasteland which lends itself perfectly to the 1000m2 austere interior, the gallery aims to support Middle East and Lebanese artists by offering a space in which to exhibit. Set within the city’s eastern periphery, the gallery is not easy to find, but for those art buffs out there wishing to locate and purchase some of the Middle East’s emerging and more renowned artists, it is well worth the effort. Philip Taaffe – Christine Streuli – Timo Nasseri, until 13th November. The work of these 3 artists converges around the meanings and possibilities of patterns, shapes and surfaces. With dynamic, vibrant painting, drawing and sculpture, these artists each investigate the construction of pattern as it vacillates between the intuitive, mathematical, meditative and sublime. On display is a large-scale exhibition of contemporary artwork by 3 artists who each work with abstraction in paintings, works on paper, installation and sculpture. Philip Taaffe is a widely acclaimed artist based in New York. Christine Streuli is a young, Berlinbased Swiss painter who represented Switzerland in the 2007 Venice Biennial. Timo Nasseri is a young Berlin-based artist of Iranian-German descent, and his work is involved in investigating ancient Persian mathematics and the geometries and structures that they suggest.
artworks which are primarily visual in nature, such as the traditional plastic arts (drawing, painting, sculpture, architecture, and printmaking), modern visual arts (photography, video, and film making), and design and crafts. Other artistic disciplines that involve aspects of the visual arts are also on the menu (performing arts, textile arts, and culinary arts).
Art Circle
Annie Kurkdjian ‘La Mer a Boire’, 7th to 28th October. It is in the sea, the pond, the river, the swimming pool or even in the bathtub that one plunges, or in which one quietly walks on the surface of the water, creating small waves that linger infinitely on the surface of the quiet water. What does one do in this liquid universe? Does one drink? Drown himself? Survive a shipwreck? Does a person try to drown his misery? Or seek this long lost thing in the quiet abyssal of the ocean? Far from ground and its dryness, the head is plunged under water, and the eye targets a vision; that of the Rimbaud’s marine Mosque or further still… The mouth dives to embrace the under-water lover and to connect in an infinitely liquid eternal dance. While doing so, there is surely a quantity of water to be swallowed, a whole “sea to drink”…. Annie Kurkdjian. Born in Beirut in 1972, Annie Kurkdjian receives her masters in Management in 1994 before turning to Fine Arts at the Lebanese University. She exhibits in both Lebanon and France and participates in many collective shows, namely the Salon d’Automne in 2009 at the Sursock Museum., 2010
Hamra, Antoine Gemayel street (Intersection of Commodore and Wardeh Stores streets), Assaf building, Beirut. t: 03 027 776 – 03 774 510 www.art-circle.net Located in the heart of Beirut, just off Hamra main street, Art Circle is a visual arts space showcasing all forms of visual arts and seeking to promote Lebanese and international creative talents. Art Circle will be constantly showcasing exceptional work through the hosting of monthly exhibitions and events within its space and by organizing others outside its premises. The gallery deals with
Laudi Abillama ‘Ras El Kheit’ ‘Tip of the Thread’, 4th to 25th November. Tapestries and fabrics are a fundamental part of Middle Eastern culture and heritage, however they do not reflect or express any form of struggle within the culture they represent. Laudi Abillama’s collection of artworks represents modern conflict in gender stereotypes and cultural identity in the Middle East through imagery that is reminiscent of the techniques and colors of local tapestries such as Persian rugs and Syrian tapestries. Born in 1986 in Surrey, England, Laudi Abillama spent most of her life in the
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United Kingdom where she received her BA in Arts and Media from the University College of Creative Arts. At the age of 20 she came back to Lebanon, her home country, to be part of the rise of contemporary art in the region. She chooses to paint predominantly people; representing personalities that have at some point influenced or touched her. She exhibits in both Beirut and Dubai, and her work is acquired internationally. She has participated in many collective shows, namely the Salon d’Automne in 2009 at the Sursock Museum. Espace Kettaneh Kunigk (Tanit) Gefinor Centre Block E, Clemenceau Hamra. t: 01 738 706 A two-tiered space exhibiting contemporary arts in its different forms. ‘Luxury and Degradation’, 23rd Sept – 30th Oct. A collective exhibition for western contemporary artists amongst which Jeff Koons, Vincent Olinet, Lalanne, Sylvie Fleury will be exhibiting and many others. ‘Paris Photo’, 17th to 21st November. Exhibition taking place at our sister gallery in Munich « Tanit » Robert Doisneau, ‘Palm Springs’, 9th Nov – 10th December. Exhibition of a selection of 30 photos of Doisneau ‘Zoom Art Fair’, 1st – 5th December. The gallery will participate in Zoom Art Fair – Miami, exhibiting Lebanese artists such as: Lamia Ziade, Gilbert Hage, Nadim Asfar and Zena el Khalil. Agial Art Gallery Abdel Aziz Street Hamra. t: 01 345 213 www.agialart.com ‘Divine Comedy’ by Chaza Charafeddine (b.1964), until 14th October. The ‘Divine Comedy’ series is inspired by the Islamic art of the Mughal period and by Persian miniatures produced between the 16th and the 18th centuries. The project explores also images produced in the 1940s in the Middle East and the Indian sub-continent, depicting mythological beasts such as
>art scene
the buraq, part-human part-horse, as well as animals that symbolize virtues like beauty, wisdom and power, such as the peacock. In the 1940s, popular art depicted the human part of the buraq as female, whereas that of the 16th century depicted it as androgynous. During the Mughal dynasty and later till late 18th century, there was an equal fascination with male beauty. In the poetry of the period, there are frequent references to young, beardless men as the ideal form. Chaza’s aim is to explore the aesthetics of popular representations of beauty, in particular the portrayal of female pop stars, whose perfection places them in a similarly unearthly realm, closer to mythological creatures and to make a comparison between the notion of beauty in early Islam art representations and in popular art today. Metropolis t: 03 793 065 www.metropoliscinema.net Inaugurated back in 2006, Metropolis is Beirut’s first art-house cinema venue. With alternative to commercial offerings, Metropolis shows a diverse range of independent films, modern, retro and of all genres. One such film is The One Man Village by Lebanese writer and director, Simon El Habra, which tells the story of a quasi-ghost village in the Lebanese mountains. Metropolis also launches its sixth international Francophone games in collaboration with Bourj Hammoud Municipality and German TV station Arte in open air screenings Metropolis. Ayyam Gallery Beirut Tower, Ground Floor, Zeitoune Street, Across from Beirut Marina Solidere. t: 70 535 301, www.ayyamgallery.com Summer Show, until 30 September. In 2007, Ayyam Gallery launched the “Shabab Ayyam” project which acts as an incubator for young and emerging talent and provides an environment where artists can be nurtured as they build their oeuvres. Through regional exhibitions, international art fairs and public sales, Ayyam works to establish their global profiles, drawing attention to the wealth of creativity that is produced in the region while
introducing an exciting new generation of Arab artists. The fanfare surrounding the success of the program has been outstanding, as critics and art lovers respond with overwhelming enthusiasm and the Shabab artists become stars of the local art scene. The Summer Show will include some of the top pieces by Shabab members including Abdul-Karim Majdal Al-Beik, Mohannad Orabi, Kais Salman and Nihad Al-Turk. Although vastly different in their techniques, backgrounds and artistic visions, the artists of Ayyam’s Shabab project have one essential thing in common: they are all taking the global art arena by storm. Roof68
Aida Cherfan Fine Art Downtown Beirut. t. 01 983 111/222 t: 04 444 111/222, www.aidacherfan.com Gérard Avedissian (little soldier), 8th to 29th October. Bahram Hajou (MG 7570), 12th November to 3rd December . Antélias: a permanent exhibition for Lebanese and international artists (large sizes). Joanna Seikaly Gallery Rue Goureaud, Gemmayzeh. t: 70 776 711 From mid October onwards there will be a solo painting exhibit by Zhivago. Art lounge
Achrafieh (behind Spinney’s), t: 03 466 764 www.roof68.com Finger painting Workshops – these Saturday workshops are intended for people of ages 15 and over and aim to facilitate the ability of self-expression through the interesting connection between the physical act of touching the paint and connecting with something important inside one’s self. Other weekly activities include illustration workshops, painting workshops and photography workshops too. South Border Gallery Gemmayzeh Rue Gouraud. t: 01 584 040 A two-tiered art space set in two fashionable Gemmayzeh apartments, South Border Gallery seems more like a South American art collector’s residence than a gallery itself. Bringing South American art to the very heart of Lebanon, Gallery owner, Michel El Daher, who has studied art in Mexico, and today spends his time between Brazil and Lebanon focuses mainly on artists from Latin America, albeit some with Lebanese ancestry. South Border Gallery offers an eclectic range of paintings and a fascinating collection of more art novelties displayed in a wealth of colours and textures. With exhibitions from well renowned Cuban artists, such as Luis Enrique Carnejo, the gallery invites its audience to view a myriad of art in a vibrant cinematic-like experience.
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Jisr El Nahr Karatina, t: 03 997 676 www.artlounge.net Evolving to become a unique contemporary art exhibition space and a cultural events host, Art Lounge has featured hundreds of art shows, music events, cultural happenings including fashion & design. Check the website for ongoing events. Espace Kettaneh Kunigk (Tanit) Gefinor Centre Block E, Clemenceau Hamra. 01 738 706. A two-tiered space exhibiting contemporary arts in its different forms. Alice Mogabgab Gallery Karam Building Rue Achrafieh. Achrafieh. 03 210 424. www.alicemogabgab.com An exclusive gallery situated in the hub of east Beirut Achrafieh’s district. The VAPA Association www.vapasite.org VAPA is a non-profit organization registered in August 2009, with a mission to hold artistic and cultural activities aimed towards resolving social issues.The idea of an association was perceived by the founders who are part of Lebanon’s active artistic scene and who, despite their past achievements, have struggled as performing and visual artists in a country where censorship takes over the freedom of expression and government support
to artists is almost inexistent. VAPA was intended to provide a network of support and assistance to artists and help them promote their works. They also actively advocate for artist’s rights and freedom of speech in Lebanon. Galerie Janine Rubeiz 1 Avenue Charles de Gaulle. Majdalani Building, Raouche. t: 01 868 290 www.galeriejaninerubeiz.com Q CONTEMPORARY ART SPACE Beirut Tower, Zeitouny Street, Downtown Beirut, t: 03.300 520 info@qcontemporary.com www.qcontemporary.com QCAS is Beirut’s latest address for contemporary art. A 120-squaremeter space is Lebanon’s premier space for cutting-edge international art. In conjunction with the bimonthly exhibits, Q Contemporary plans to host exciting parties and happenings to introduce some of the world’s most important artists to a discerning Lebanese clientele. The Upstairs Gallery 527 Rue Gouraud, Renno Building, 1st floor Gemmayzeh, t: 01 585 151 Situated in the heart of Gemmayzeh, The Upstairs Gallery is dynamic and up market. The Gallery is regarded for its unique blend of contemporary urban designs with echoes of the traditional forms of Africa. Zico House 174 Spears, Sanayeh Beirut. 01 746 769. www.zicohouse.org The impact of Zico House as a centre for artistic creativity and formation is not only due to the quality of the works and experimentation in venture but to the unique cultural atmosphere and the mix of people and ideas. The endeavour initiated by Zico was to create cohabitation between experimental art projects, student’s projects, social development projects, small theatre rehearsals, exhibitions, art in context, social associations and civic institutions.
Gallery Directory
>art scene
Agial Art Gallery Abdel Aziz Street Hamra. t: 01 345 213.
Alice Mogabgab Gallery
An exclusive gallery situated in the hub of east Beirut Achrafieh’s district. Karam Buildintg Rue Achrafieh. Achrafieh. t: 03 210 424. www.alicemogabgab.com
out & about
Art lounge
Evolving to become a unique contemporary art exhibition space and venue for cultural events, Art Lounge has featured hundreds of art shows, music events, cultural happenings including fashion & design. Check the website for ongoing events. Roof68
Abbas, Ruanne Abou-Rahme, Buthayna Ali, Chant Avedissian, Ayman Baalbaki, Hassan Hajjaj, Fathi Hassan, Susan Hefuna and Raeda Saadeh. The gallery’s impressive modern structure will house a diverse range of international and regional exhibitions.
Ground 68, Fassouh, Achrafieh Beirut. t: 01 326 646, 03 057 428, 70 594 591 18th June to 18th August, The House of Frida Exhibition celebrates the life and art of Frida Kahlo, VAPA Association is proud to take you on a remarkable Frida journey. With YOUR contribution, we will turn Ground 68 into a Beiruti version of “La Casa Azul” – or Blue House – in Coyoacán, Mexico City, where Kahlo lived and worked, and it is now a museum housing artifacts of her life.
Le Dome City Center Downtown Beirut, Places des Martyrs 9th to 29th June, Otros Quijotes, 50 Designers of Spain reinvent Don Quixote 9th to 24th July, Cuban Contemporay Art Exhibition
Piece Unique Piece Unique Gallery blg 1064/A, Aris Kanafani street, Saifi Village, Quartier des arts. t: 01 975 655 3rd to 19th June, Dr Raif Chehab Painitings 22nd June to 4th July, Lulu Yammmine
Centre Culturelle Francais de Beyrouth www.ccf-liban.org On until 13th June, Utopia(s) is a collection of exhibitions and short films that examines utopia and invites us to think the field of contemporary art as a space of freedom to experiment our utopias philosophical, political and aesthetic outlook. Artists include: Closky, Joana Hadjithomas and Khalil Joreige, Bernard Khoury, Nicolas Moulin, Rabih Mroue, Nicolas Prache.
Q Contemporary Beirut Tower, Zeitouny Street, Downtown Beirut. t: 03.300 520. info@qcontemporary.com www.qcontemporary.com 10th June to 17th July, Booby Trap 2.0 Chaine Gallery
Running Horse Contemporary Art Space
Near Cinéma Concorde, Verdun. t: 01 346 522 A Permanent collection of 24 Lebanese painters.
Sleep Comfort Depot, Medawar Beirut. t: 01 562 778 www.therunninghorseart.com
Joanna Seikaly Rue Goureaud , Saade Building, Gemmayzeh Bierut. t: 70 776 711 From 3rd June, Jungla, recent paintings by Miky Fabrega. Matossian Gallery Haigazian University, Mexique Street, Kantari Beirut. t: 01 353 010 extension 365. 10th to 24th June, Arame Art Gallery Armenia, featuring paintings of internationally renowned Armenian Artists. art circle Antoine Gemayel, Street, Assaf Building, Hamra. t: 03 027 776. 3rd to 24th June, Sumayyah Samaha : Art and Politics Beirut Exhibition Center Solidere recently revealed its newest contribution to the vibrant art scene with the unveiling of the Beirut Exhibiton Center in Biel. In its inaugural exhibition, Beirut Exhibition Center collaborated with Rose Issa Projects in London, ARABICITY, will be on display throughout October. Notable artists include Basel
9th June to 31st July, emBODYment – photography exhibition by Rasha ShammasShammas looks at an alternate Lebanon, where she captures through her lens, Lebanese people, with one thing in common: tattoo. These black and white nudes reflect a Lebanese canvas revealing of identity, desires and status. A book is being produced and signed at the opening of the exhibition. A book launch will follow at BO18 on the opening night. 5th August to 28th August, COLLECTIVE – a summer group show mixing photography, painting and drawing with most of the artists exhibited at the gallery. September to October, Solo show by Katya Traboulsi, Lebanese painter established in Dubai will be showing a book: revised. Once in a waiting room ,the artist took out a 365-page reading book from her purse, a book that she hated reading and yet finished. She selected a word from each page with a thick black marker and drew her known Katya-esque little men and women and various forms from these words. Each page will be reproduced as high quality prints and exhibited. The whole book will be preserved and sold as an original piece.
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Jisr El Nahr Karatina. t: 03 997 676. www.artlounge.net
Espace Kettaneh Kunigk (Tanit)
A two-tiered space exhibiting contemporary arts in its different forms. Gefinor Centre Block E, Clemenceau Hamra. t: 01 738 706.
Sfeir-Semler Gallery
Beirut’s ‘white cube’, Sfeir-Semler Commercial Art Gallery exhibits the very latest in contemporary Arab, Lebanese and international artists. Tannous Building Quarantine. t: 01 566 550. www.sfeir-semler.de
South Border Gallery
A two-tiered art space set in two fashionable Gemmayzeh apartments showcasing an ongoing mix of South American art right in the very heart of Lebanon. Gemmayzeh Rue Gouraud. t: 01 584 040.
The Upstairs Gallery
Situated in the heart of Gemmayzeh, The Upstairs Gallery is dynamic and up market. The Gallery is regarded for its unique blend of contemporary urban designs with echoes of the traditional forms of Africa. 527 Rue Gouraud, Renno Building, 1st floor Gemmayzeh. t: 01 585 151
Zico House 174 Spears, Sanayeh Beirut. t: 01 746 769. www.zicohouse.org
Galerie Janine Rubeiz 1 Avenue Charles de Gaulle. Majdalani Building, Raouche. t: 01 868 290. www.galeriejaninerubeiz.com
Galerie Zamaan Sadat Street Hamra. t: 01 745 571. www.zamaangallery.com
debbas
>museums
Lebanon’s rich archaeological heritage begs the question of whether museums have to be indoor. In many ways, Lebanon boasts countless outdoor museums where you least expect it—even in downtown Beirut. Museums proper also display collections of Lebanon’s illustrious past.
Silk Museum Originally constructed in 1890 and owned by the Fayed family, the factory and grounds were later purchased by the Asseily family in 1973. The Silk Museum itself is a living record of Lebanon’s industrial and social history. The museum showcases the importance of the silk trade in Lebanon through interesting and lively displays and exhibitions that feature old images of factory workers in the early part of the 20th century. The displays also chronicle important events that occurred in Lebanon due to the silk industry. Postal stamps on display from the 1930s show scenes of the Congress of Silk which was held in Lebanon during the same year. Further back still, images show pages from a magazine entitled The Graphic, which was published in England in 1890. The pages display images and articles that are exclusively about silk manufacturing in Lebanon. There are working machines too that illustrate how the silk threads were woven into silk material. On show too is ‘living silk’. Visitors can follow the lifecycle, and indeed handle, the live silkworms present. A museum guide talks visitors through how the silkworm transforms from a tiny egg weighing half a milligram to 10,000 times its original weight in just one month prior to forming a silk cocoon. There is a well-stocked boutique and cafe too with terrace overlooking Beirut. For more information go to or call. Open May to October. For more information call 05 940 767. www.thesilkmuseum.org
Cilicia Museum
National Museum of BeirutT
Lebanon’s third largest museum is situated just a few kilometers north of the capital in Antelias. Showcasing around 230 rare medieval Armenian manuscripts, delicate silver chalices and altar pieces, reliquaries, a stash of 2,000 ancient coins and an entire floor of modern Armenian paintings and tapestries. Highlighting the rich history of Lebanon’s Armenian population, the museum also boasts a library of ancient and modern books, Here you can find the first printed Armenian Bible dated from 1666 and an amphora vase from the 9th century B.C. Located on the beautiful grounds of the Armenian Orthodox Cathedral, a monastery still functions as well as being the current home of the Catholic faith. A free-standing mausoleum is a vivid reminder of victims from the Armenian genocide.
This neo-classical building can be found in Beirut’s Badaro district—known for its tree-lined avenues and quaint residential homes. Sidon and Tyre depicting Lebanon’s vibrant history and pays testament to the nation’s rich heritage. This three – tiered museum also houses collections from pre history, the Bronze Age, the Iron Age, Hellenistic Period, the Roman Period, the Byzantine Period and the Arab Conquest and Mamluk period. To the right of the entrance, there is an audiovisual room and to its left, the well-stocked museum gift shop.
For directions and further information call 04 410 001.
Damascus Road. t: 01 612 295. Entrance fee: 5.000 L.P. – 1.000 L.P. (students and under 18) Museum Hours: 9. 00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, closed on Mondays and Holidays
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In Beirut Mouawad Museum An Arab palace, built by Mr. Henri Pharaon back in 1911 offers a majestic backdrop for this exquisite private museum. Pottery, ancient weapons, unique carpets or sophisticated Jewellery pieces, objets d’art and rare precious stones make up the collection on show. t: 01 201 801 Sursock Museum Set within a preserved Italian-style mansion and former home of the Sursock family, the museum displays permanent exhibitions of art such as Japanese print and Muslim art displays, as well as playing host to temporary exhibits focusing on contemporary art. Sursock Street, Achrafieh; t: 01 201 892. The Museum of the American University of Beirut (AUB) Housed in an attractive 19th century building, this is Beirut’s only other archaeological museum. Items date from prehistory going up to the Islamic Era. Also on show is a collection of Phoenician glassware. Main gate Rue Bliss, t: 01 363 235
Beyond Beirut Gibran Khalil Gibran Museum The historic museum lies next to the picturesque town of Bcharreh. Displaying personal artefacts, a personal library and paintings, divided among 16 rooms. t: 06 671 137 www.friendsofgibran.org Sidon Soap Museum A well-laid out gallery housed in a 13th century stone building is Lebanon’s first soap museum and allows visitors a glimpse into Sidon’s soap-making past. Included in this delightful space is a fascinating display of hammam accessories. Moutran Street, t: 07 753 599 – 03 753 599 Baalbeck Besides the ancient ruins and temples that fill this place there
is also an indoor museum. Housing maps, photography and presentation on the temples the space also exhibits items from the Bronze Age and Hellenic and Roman era. t: 08 370 520. Moussa Castle Constructed on a hill between Deir El Kamar and Beiteddine, the castle has engraved on its stones the very beliefs, ideas of its owner Moussa Abdel Karim Al Maamari. His dream as a 14 year old of building a great castle with his own hands came true when he started to construct the castle in 1962, finishing it half a century later. Located inside is a museum dedicated to Moussa himself. Beiteddine, t: 05 500 106 www.moussacastle.com Beiteddine Palace Set in the beautiful Chouf region the space houses an interesting collection of weapons, costumes, jewels and a fabulous array of the most unique Byzantine Mosaics. With pieces dating from the Phoenicia period to the 19th century there is enough to keep you interested for a good few hours. t: 05 500 077. Debbané Palace The Debbane Palace has recently been transformed into a museum chronicling the history of the Saida- first of it’s kind in Lebanon. Artifacts, manuscripts and displayed with scientific rigor and give due respect to the palace and its’ surrounding city of Saida. Al Moutran Street, Saïda t: 07 720 110. www.museumsaida.org Hall of Fame Founded in 2002 this fun museum is located just 17km north of Beirut in Zouk Mosbeh. Housing more than 50 silicone statues of world famous people from the political, artistic and cultural arenas, some of the statues move, talk and even sing. This animated museum offers you the chance to meet in person some of Lebanon’s most esteemed citizens. For ticket info call t: 09 225 202 or go to www. halloffamelb.com
taten cafÉ
>GOURMET
Tucked inside this upscale boutique is a café destined to satisfy the weary shopper. Offering light-lunch fare defined by fresh ingredients, delectable salads and healthconscious selections, Taten Café is a delicious place to rest from a hard day’s worth of shopping. Luckily for you, Taten Café is a hop, skip and a jump from Beirut’s most sophisticated shopping area.
A Taste of Lebanon TawLet” Souk el Tayeb is an open kitchen situated within the Beirut suburb of Mar Mikael. This eating space gives way to different producers/cooks from Souk el Tayeb who prepare typical food from his/her region. Every day, a different cook, a different producer, a different meal, a different story: Monday to Friday – a la carte from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and “producer’s buffet” from 1 to 4 p.m. Saturday – souk brunch from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Once a month, Tawlet hosts a special guest – chefs, food writers, foodies. Cooking classes are every Wednesday at 4 p.m., while at night time, Tawlet is available for private functions/dinners and their “I cook” formula where you are the cook and Tawlet is there to help with shopping, preparing and serving, and promises to be a memorable evening.
Burgundy Burgundy 752 Goureaud Street, Saifi Village. t: 01 999 820
Naher Street, mar Mikael. Beirut, sector 79. t: .01 448 129.
TawLet’ Souk el Tayeb shares its Fall Recipes with le Journal readers.
Ingredients
Directions
• • • • • • • •
First, peel and cut the aubergines into cubes and rub the cubes in salt and let them “sweat” for 2 hours before drying well and deep frying them. Next, stir fry the onion, in 2 tbsp of olive oil, till golden brown and then add the meat and fry while continuously stirring. Season with salt, pepper and cinnamon and cover in 10 cups of water. Once the meat is cooked, add the aubergines and the rice, and cook for half an hour. Serve with laban on the side and green salad.
3 eggplants/ aubergine 2 cups of rice 1 kilo of minced meat 2 large onions, chopped fine Salt, pepper, cinnamon Laban vegetable oil olive oil
Situated in Saifi Village, this bijou eatery and wine bar provides the very finest in wine and cuisine. Serving sophisticated French cuisine, Burgundy also offers an extensive wine selection dating back to the early 20th century with a particular nod to the Burgundy region of France, hence the name. The owners themselves are young, well travelled foodies who have introduced to Beirut new flavours, higher quality and are willing to share the knowhow of a well travelled team. Executive Chef is Canadian Brody White who previously held a position at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Paris.
Fish Restaurants La Plage, Café d’ Orient – Ain el Mreisseh, t: 01 366 222.
Salmontini Accawi Slope, Tabaris, t: 01 320 920.
Dorada sur Mer, Maalmaltein – Seaside Road, t: 09 914 414.
Toni Sur Mer, Maalmeltein – Jouenieh, t: 09 937 797.
Mandaloun sur mere, Biel Downtown, t: 01 999 220.
La Voile Bleue Mina, Jbail, t: 09 545 005.
Pepe’s Fishing Club, Mina Jbail, t: 09 540 213.
Chez Zakhia, Amchit – Near Jbail, t: 09 621 717.
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Sultan Brahim, Antelias Highway – Antelias, t: 04 402 997. www.al-sultanbrahim.com
Imagine a beautifully presented dish of finely picked ingredients cooked full of mouth watering flavors that satisfy your appetite and complement your wallet
Now don’t imagine it. Just pick it from our menu.
for more information or reservations, please call us on: 01 745 771 ~ 01 745 772
>events lebanon
Erss Al Madina Festival For three days in September, Lebanon sent a cultural message to the world. On three separate days, the cities of Sidon, Beirut and Tripoli were awash with clowns, human statues and performances that stretch well beyond the imagination. Nabaad, a local ngo for art and culture set up by Wafa Khochen a couple of years ago is behind this late summer spectacular entitled Errs Al Madina. Under the patronage of Mrs. Bahiaa Hariri 18 Lebanese street performers and four renowned French performing companies – Daleth, Areosculpture, Remue Menage, Motus-modules – will descend upon the three cities in a fanfare of culture and fun. Artisan stands and musical concerts, featuring Iraqi singer Ilham Al Madfai will also take place. City streets will be turned into pedestrian zones as flying ladies, helium balloons take to the air. The festival takes place on the 11 th September on
corniche du port, Sidon, 12 th September in Raouche Corniche, Beirut and 13 th September on Rue Al Maarad Tripoli all from 6.30pm onwards.
>ACTIVITIES
Majestic mountains beckon city-dwellers to explore a natural sanctuary just a short distance from Beirut. Take a trip out of the city, breathe some fresh air and rejuvenate yourself from the inside out. The nature of Lebanon is a playground waiting to be discovered.
Aamiq Wetlands
Situated close to the ancient village of Aamiq on the Elias Skaff Estate in the Western Bekaa is Aamiq. The Wetlands include observation posts and bird watching equipment, such as binoculars for those eager to witness an unforgettable display of migrating birds and other wildlife forms. Project Manager Ramsey Rahar is there on hand to ensure that those wishing to discover the natural wonders of Lebanon’s hidden habitats, as well as witnessing firsthand the exotic visitors from afar, are kept informed on all the details of wildlife. Organized hikes with guides are also available. t: 08 566 578 www.wildlebanon.org/en/pages/sit/aammiq.html
Animal Encounter
Have you ever fancied cuddling up to a Hyena? Well now you can at Animal Encounter in the mountain resort town of Aley. Working to change our about wild animals and their natural habitat, this wildlife refuge centre offers both education and inspiration on all things wildlife. See firsthand birds such as owls, vultures that have been rescued and nursed back to health. There are wild wolves, foxes and big cats too, all native to the Lebanese countryside. With a highly equipped resource centre and experts on hand too there is simply lots to do and see. Contact Mounir Abi Said t: 05 558 724. www.animalencounter.org
Fi
hing Trip
Fishing trips are a great way to break from traditional tourism excursions and to offer you one of the most unforgettable experiences in Lebanon. What could be more fun than catching dorade fish with Lebanon coastal mountains as a backdrop! The boat fleet consists of central console boats, and walk around style, with a capacity of up to 8 passengers. Boats are equipped with safety equipment. Fishing experiences last half a day and starts from the fishing port of Dbayeh. Each boat is led by an experienced captain from the Dbayeh Fishing Club who will sail north towards the magnificent Jounieh Bay to the secret fishing spot. Trip Schedule: Four outings are operated everyday of the week as follows:6AM to noon time, noon time to 6PM, 6PM to midnight, midnight to 6AM. t: 70 103 222.
Ride a Bike through Beirut City Centre
Beirut City Centre has got a new mode of transport that promises to keep the city green and its citizens and visitors healthy. A new pedestrian and cyclist track now runs over an approximate five km distance in Beirut’s City Centre. The cycling concept and track, revived by Solidere as an environmentally friendly means of transportation, begins it route at Beirut Souks at Trablous Street facing Al Ajami Square and continues through Patriarch Hoyek Street and towards the Beirut new waterfront,
Adventure
Cyclosport
t: 03 360027 Powered by a well-trained team of 40 guides and instructors to handle the various outward bound activities undertaken.
Gouraud Street Gemmayzeh, t: 03 435 524
www.lebanese-adventure.com
Beirut by Bike t: 03 435 524
Bikes for rent from Ain El Mreisseh.
Club Thermique
t: 03 288193 www.clubthermique.com.lb Be unique and see Lebanon from a hot air balloon.
Discover Beirut by bike, or take it that bit further with this cycling shop’s mountain bike rides.
where, for the first time, the second level of the promenade, which extends over a kilometer and a half, will be opened to the public. The track continues to Allenby Street and finally returns to Beirut Souks. Open every Sunday from 10:00 a.m to 8:00 p.m, the track zone will be declared traffic free for the specified time frame. Bicycles will be available for rent starting at the Beirut Souks and equipped stations will be available along the track to maintain the cyclists by offering them water, first aid and other essential services if they so require it.
Cedars Paragliding School
Since 1992, the Cedars Paragliding School has been providing tandem flights and paragliding lessons to many paragliding enthusiasts. Based in the Cedars, in the north of Lebanon, it operates all year long using summer and winter sites. If you are living in Lebanon or visiting, make sure to try paragliding by booking a tandem flight; it will be an experience of a lifetime. t: 03 544 449 www.cedarsparagliding.com
Hike Lebanon
Esprit Nomade is an Eco-Tourism, Capacity Building & Team-Building operator in Lebanon that provides-Eco-Tourism Trips & Adventure. For information and bookings. t: 01 201 950 / 03 223 552 www.esprit-nomade.com
Providing scuba diving training for over ten years, this group ensures that you get to see the underwater parts of Lebanon.
Lebanon and beyond its borders with its experienced hikers. For further information:
Chouf Cedar Reserve
t: 03 561 174 www.vamos-todos.com
Hoops Club
t: 05 502230 www.shoufcedar.org
t: 04 411 515 www.hoops-club.com Offering a wide range of sports for all the family, big or small, professional or amateur.
TLB Destinations
Explore Lebanon’s largest natural reserve and discover three magnificent cedar forests.
Lebanon Divers
t: 04 419 848 www.tlb-destinations.com
t: 03 602614 www.lebanondivers.com
Taking Life Beyond the cities TBL offers hiking tours across
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Vamos Todos
An ecotourism club that promotes and encourages the love of nature amongst its members. The name Vamos Todos , which means “Let’s go all together” was chosen to reflect the spirit of the club, where everyone can participate in any of the multitude of activities.
TITANIU M AIN EL TINEH
T1- AIN EL TINEH 315 sqm apartments - city view, 340 - 495 sqm apartments - sea view Adding its signature to a Beirut neighbourhood synonymous with exceptional exclusivity is TITANIUM. Amid an absolute epicenter of sheer refinement in the capital’s fashionable quarter of Ain el-Tineh, this luxurious residential development stands out as the pinnacle of luxury and refinement.
T2 - AIN EL TINEH 285 sqm apartments - city view, 290 - 412 sqm apartments - sea view Adding its signature to a Beirut neighbourhood synonymous with exceptional exclusivity is TITANIUM. Amid an absolute epicenter of sheer refinement in the capital’s fashionable quarter of Ain el-Tineh, this luxurious residential development stands out as the pinnacle of luxury and refinement.
w w w. k r o n f o l . n e t DEVELOPER
Hassan KROnfOL BEIRUT - LEBANON TEL:+961 1 805005 FAX:+961 1 802002 E-MAIL: sales@kronfol.net