global garbs A SUSTAINABLE FASHION MAGAZINE Issue 08 THE SLOW FASHION ISSUE HOW TO BUILD A SUSTAINABLE CAPSULE WARDROBE DANIELLE ALVARADO SARAH CHUCK ELIZABETH CLINE with Slow Fashion Movement (SFM) with interviews from
Madison Bailey GOEX SARAH CHUCK GLOBAL GARBS In partnership with Editorial and Marketing Assistant Contributors & Interviews SPONSORED BY COVER PHOTO COURTESY OF ISSUE 08 Editor in chief Lauren Tanaka Fortune
Samera Hayashi Danielle Sarah Chuck Elizabeth Cline Bhavna Mishra
Alvarado
TAINABLE OBSESSIONS GLOBAL GARBS 8 43 50 66 TABLE OF CONTENTS HOW TO CREATE A SUSTAINABLE CAPSULE WARDROBE HOW CAN BIG BRANDS CAN ADOPT SMALLER SLOW FASHION BRANDS PRINCIPLES Here's what four slow fashion brand founders had to say A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO SLOW FASHION Fast fashion vs slow fashion 12 EDITOR'S LETTER Issue 08 LIFESTYLE EDUCATION 06 SLOW FASHION VS FAST FASHION A mindset shift 36 4
60 55 FEATURED PARTNER: SLOW FASHION MOVEMENT (SFM) Creating a global fashion movement ELIZABETH CLINE Policy and Advocacy Director for ReMake 36 DANIELLE ALVARADO Slow living as a way of life INTERVIEWS 30 SARAH CHUCK A journey to slow fashion 24 5
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 6
COVER PHOTO COURTESY OF SARAH CHUCK Dress: made by Sarah from vintage pattern Simplicity 8066 Bag: vintage curated by @lalisimone Hat: @kin thelabel Socks: @hanselfrombasel Shoes: @aspectclimateprojects
Lauren Tanaka - Fortune Global Garbs founder I’ve been wanting to create an issue about slow fashion ever since I started this magazine. To me, slow fashion is one of the most important solutions in reframing and reimagining the fashion industry. The idea of placing intention, thoughtfulness, quality and minimalism around fashion is ultimately what needs to change in our overall mindset surrounding this industry This paired with legislation surrounding important issues such as labor rights and environmental factors, we can slowly begin to chip away at the industry known as fast fashion. Many of us who embrace this idea of slowing down and slow fashion long for the “olden days” when garments were actually made with care and quality materials This idea of owning very few pieces of clothing and wearing them until they no longer can be repaired is something of the past However, it does seem that this mentality is starting to slowly shift back Climate change is hard to ignore especially when it comes to a frivolous industry that continues to pollute, destroy, and take advantage of the world’s most vulnerable countries Fast fashion cannot continue on with such rapid growth and ultimately needs to go away but one can only be so hopeful In fact, Elizabeth Cline (former sustainability journalist, turned professor and policy advocate for Remake) says that “the fast fashion industry is here to stay and will not slow down unless the business of fashion for some reason is replaced by some other technological breakthrough. The reason for this is simple fashion is a massive industry that supports job growth and makes a lot of people around the world very wealthy ” Read her full interview on page 24 Elizabeth is one of those people in this industry who is creating true change By changing careers from writer to policy and advocacy director for ReMake, her actions truly speak louder than words. Her activism and commitment in leading the ReMake movement also inspired me to become an ambassador for this incredible organization Yes, creating a magazine about shopping more sustainably is better than a “regular” magazine, but ultimately it’s about creating laws and putting pressure on the big brands to make changes Yes, we as consumers can shop with our values, but in order to create lasting change and more impactful change that is needed sooner than later, we ’ ve got to rally together to fight industrial capitalism at the top. In addition to our in depth interview with Elizabeth we also partnered with the Slow Fashion Movement (SFM) which is a global movement made up of 23 “glocal” chapters and ambassadors around the world Last year they received over 10,000 pledges to slow down their consumption habits Their mission is to educate and empower fashion consumers to make environmentally and socially conscious choices. This message resonates with our mission as well. While we may still promote sustainable fashion brands and shopping more consciously, it’s ultimately about education When we understand where clothes are made, who made them, how they are made, and where they will end up, we begin to shift our perspective about consumption altogether My hope for this issue is that you read with intention and openness surrounding the idea of slowing down. The core element of slow fashion is inherent to slow living. When we shift our consumption from this idea of need vs want we can begin to recognize how little we actually need to be happy :)
Sustainable OBSESSIONS MINI LEATHER BACKPACK $298 Compact yet roomy enough for your off duty necessities, our new Mini Backpack makes a sweet companion for small excursions and weekends about town alike Buy it here! 3 PALOMA LINEN PANT OLIVE $197 Effortless and essential the most versatile pant you can find. With carefully constructed details, this refined take on a straight leg style makes any outfit more elevated A soft waistband sits high and snug for ease and movement. The perfect combination of refined and relaxed makes styling options limitless. Buy it here! 2 FOSTER KNIT TWO PIECE $180 On my way The Foster is a two piece set with a sleeveless, fitted top and midi skirt It has cap sleeves and a high, mock neckline It has slight ruching for a bit of a fancier look Buy it here! 1 2 1 3 LIFESTYLE
RY PERI ect that can be ith so many tility) It e in our r color ctually a top 22 The p that you , confident, with a silk at stands ELDORA TENCEL WIDE LEG PANT $138 Made from an ultra smooth twill with a soft drape, these pleated wide leg crops have an invisible side zipper, front pockets, and an adjustable tie waist. Buy it here! 7 90S LOW SLUNG SHORT $210 The 90s Crop Low Slung Short in Aged Indigo Destroy is our take on the easy fitting boyfriend short from the 1990s Can be worn cinched high with a shorten inseam or slung low for longer look Features a unique worn and whiskered indigo wash, classic button fly, and cut off hem on 60s inspired rigid denim Buy it here! 4 LIFESTYLE OLLIE PANT IN MARISOL DENIM $295 4 pocket high waist fitted sailor pant Buy it here! 5 5 7 9
CAPSULE WARDROBE
Classic over trendy items. Remember, the whole point of creating a capsule wardrobe is to cut down the amount of clothing you ’ re buying. While you can mix in a few trendy items every now and then, you want to create a basic foundation of pieces that you can always wear regardless of season or trend Functional and versatile should be top of mind. The best example of this is a dress that can be worn dressed up or down. A midi black form fitting dress complete with some sneakers and a sweatshirt for days off, paired with a blazer and loafers for a day at the office, or a pair of heels for a date night The idea is to create as many outfits from one piece of clothing as possible Less is more. If the idea of having less than thirty pieces of clothing in your closet seems somewhat unrealistic, remember 80% of the time you ’ re only wearing 20% of your wardrobe. So if you have over a hundred pieces of clothing chances are you really only wear about twenty pieces Same goes for accessories: so all of your millions of necklaces, earrings, shoes, handbags, etc Sounds about right, yes?
Creating a capsule wardrobe is framework that has been highly popularized in the past few years or so, but did you know that this trend actually began several decades ago when Donna Karan released her 7 Essentials collection in which she featured seven easy pieces that women can wear in their closets that were meant to be mixed and matched The capsule wardrobe is really nothing new, but given our interest and need to create wardrobes both on a budget, better for the environment and easy to style, it’s no surprise that capsule wardrobes are trendy again This is one trend we hope sticks around! If you want to create a capsule wardrobe there are few golden rules you should follow:
Quality over quantity. A capsule wardrobe can consist of a lean 20 50 pieces (which includes footwear and accessories) which means that every single item you purchase will be purchased with intention. Most people’s closets go by the 80/20 rule which means that 80% of the time they are only wearing 20% of their wardrobe Sound familiar?
With some of these key insights into what it takes to build a capsule wardrobe, here are some pieces that everyone should own in order to build a great foundation.
How to Create a Sustainable LIFESTYLE 12
WHITE SHIRT ClassicA GRAMMAR THE VERB SHIRT $245 QUINCE 100% EUROPEAN LINEN SHIRT $39 REFORMATION WILL OVERSIZED SHIRT $128CLICK & SHOP LIFESTYLE 13
LayerTANK TOPS TO LA RELAXED ORGANIC RIB TANK $35 VETTA SQUARE NECK FITTED TANK P$68 ACT TANK BODYSUIT $35 CLICK & SHOP LIFESTYLE 14
Black DRESS BASIC EVERLANE THE JAPANESE GOWEAVE SLIP DRESS $100 MALAIKA LBD WITH POCKETS $140 AMOUR VERT LUX SLEEVELESS BLACK DRESS $128 LIFESTYLE CLICK & SHOP 15
LEG Jeans STRAIGHT NUDIE JEANS STRAIGHT SALLY INDIGO AUTUMN $200 RE DONE HIGH RISE STOVE PIPE $265 LIFESTYLE CLICK & SHOP 16
Get $100 off 5 items using code CustomCapsule5
Pants TAILORED VETTA THE EVERYDAY PANT $138 EVERLANE THE WAY HIGH DRAPE PANT $118 REFORMATION THE MASON PANT $178 LIFESTYLE CLICK & SHOP18
BASIC Tee CUTE RICHER OR POORER WOMEN'S RELAXED CROP TEE $40 REFORMATION MUSE TEE $38 GOEX APPAREL LADIES PREMIUM COTTON V NECK TEE $14 LIFESTYLE CLICK & SHOP 19
CoatsTRENCH ABLE IRENA TRENCH JACKET $138 JAN N JUNE TRENCH COAT LOTIC NEOPRENE BLACK €180 VESTIAIRE COLLECTIVE BURBERRY (SECONDHAND) LIFESTYLE CLICK & SHOP 20
Wear CULOTTES / LOUNGE LOUP WASHED INDIGO SIMONE JEANS $172 WHIMSY + ROW VALENTINA PANT $162 GIRLFRIEND COLLECTIVE STRETCH WOVEN JOGGER $82 LIFESTYLE CLICK & SHOP 21
Dress DAY TO NIGHT REFORMATION FARLEY DRESS $218 BEL KAZAN DEVON DRESS $284 MADE TRADE OLIVIA HALTER MAXI DRESS $218 LIFESTYLE CLICK & SHOP 22
From Writer to Director of Advocacy and Policy: An interview with Elizabeth Cline
by Lauren
Tanaka-Fortune INTERVIEWS
I then discovered Elizabeth Cline’s book Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion. Elizabeth’s book was truly eye opening from a consumer point of view. While The True Cost was both educational and heartbreaking, Elizabeth’s book broke down the negative implications from fast fashion and the fashion industry overall with both personal stories and researched interviews I also related to her story as a recovering shopaholic and resonated so much with finding cheap alternatives to fuel my shopping addiction and overwhelming closet.
In her book, Elizabeth writes: I was riding the Subway home from a Kmart in Manhattan, where I had purchased seven pairs of $7 shoes just because they were cheap, and I started to wonder what my disposable clothing habit was costing the world. I had a closet of cheap, disposable fashion at that time and had no clue where it was made or the implications of my habits.
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t’s not every day that you have the opportunity to interview someone whose work has inspired you to start a business.
Likewise, Rana Plaza, the factory collapse in 2013 that stole 1132 garment workers' lives in Bangladesh was another turning point. That industrial murder happened less than a year after Overdressed came out and unfortunately it was those deaths that finally got the world’s attention. All these years later we are still fighting to hold brands accountable and to create a safe, equitable fashion industry.
I
Whenever I’ve interviewed people we always ask the question “What was your “ah ha” moment?” This question is important because it’s a turning point in your lifestyle in terms of understanding the negative impact of the fashion industry. It’s a moment when we all realize “ohhh, so this is why clothing is so cheap”. This is why we consume so much, and this is why I must change not only my shopping habits but what I choose to stand against. This is such a pivotal moment I like to highlight because it’s a change of perspective that every single person who buys clothing (which is everyone) needs to truly understand. Fashion is such a great entry point into environmentalism and creating change because it’s an industry that we all participate in. My first realization (which I’m sure I’ve shared already), was watching The True Cost documentary (which you should definitely watch if you haven’t already) After watching this eye opening film, I tried to dive deeper into understanding the impact of the fashion industry specifically the fast fashion part
Elizabeth’s second book, The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good dives into how we can change the way we shop, love our clothes again and understand how and where they were made It's not just a style guide but a way for us to actually take action In this exclusive interview with Elizabeth, we talk about her new role as the Director of Advocacy and Policy at ReMake, why she chose to change careers, ReMakes recent victories, how we can all participate in creating change in this industry, and what’s next for her. Enjoy!
IT’S BEEN TEN YEARS SINCE YOU WROTE OVERDRESSED. HAPPY ANNIVERSARY! HOW HAVE YOU AS A WRITER AND NOW LABOR RIGHTS ADVOCATE CHANGED SINCE WRITING THAT BOOK? Thank you! I can’t believe it’s been a decade During the pandemic, I decided to change my career and more directly tackle the fashion industry’s problems through collective action. I feel that I have done as much as I could as a writer to bring awareness and want to take the knowledge I’ve amassed to push for systemic solutions To those ends, I joined Remake as the Director of Advocacy and Policy where I oversee campaigns and legislative action. All of my work with Remake is centered around one main goal, which is to increase brand accountability for working conditions in garment factories. We do that through pressure campaigns and by working to change laws Over the years, it’s become clear to me that the fashion industry continues to manifest exploitation because of the way supply chains are set up where there’s no real accountability. Big brands set the prices, delivery and contract terms, and even the social and sustainable requirements of factories but are not ultimately accountable for what happens to garment workers as a result Brands are not on the hook nor do they share in the responsibility if there’s wage theft, safety violations, deaths, harassments, or other rollbacks on labor rights in the factories that make their clothes.
IN THE CONSCIOUS CLOSET YOU TEACH READERS HOW TO ACTUALLY BUILD A MORE SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE AND HOW WE CAN MAKE ACTUAL CHANGE. WHAT TYPES OF CHANGE HAVE YOU PERSONALLY MADE EITHER BEFORE/DURING/AFTER WRITING THIS BOOK?
Since writing Overdressed, I’ve approached buying clothes with far more intention Knowing the impacts of the fashion industry on the planet and on the lives and bodies of women who make garments and textiles just inevitably and indelibly changes the way a person dresses In general, I buy a fraction of the clothing I once did I tend to choose quality over quantity when I have the means I buy more secondhand clothing to cut down on my impact on the environment, I repair my clothing, I wash on cold and wash only as needed, and support brands that pay living wages or are striving to improve their supply chain On the other hand, I know that conscious consumerism on its own is not going to change the fashion industry It can support an alternative ecosystem of brands doing things right, but it does not drive a nail in the heart of fast fashion or change the underlying economics of the fashion industry. That’s why we have to pair our calls to vote with our dollars with these bigger social movements to change laws and the rules of the industry
California’s Garment Worker Protection Act, which we helped to pass last year alongside the Garment Worker Center and California’s garment workers, is one of the first laws to hold brands jointly and severally liable for wage theft in their factories. This is a revolution in the paradigm of responsibility in fashion that we hope to implement on a national and global level
I’m a Brooklyn based writer, researcher and activist that works in TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOURSELF, BACKGROUND AND WHY YOU LOVE FASHION.
DO YOU THINK THAT BRANDS (ESPECIALLY FAST FASHION BRANDS) WILL EVER SLOW DOWN THEIR PRODUCTION PROCESS? WE SAW WHAT HAPPENED DURING THE PANDEMIC BUT DO YOU THINK THERE IS HOPE FOR THE INDUSTRY TO EVER GO BACK TO SLOWER PRODUCTION?
INTERVIEWS
No, fast fashion brands will not slow down their production process unless they are mandated to or unless the business of fashion for some reason is replaced by some other technological breakthrough The reason for this is simple fashion is a massive industry that supports job growth and makes a lot of people around the world very wealthy. Industrial capitalism is still very largely built around the production of basic material goods for profit and things like sustainability and social stability will always have to be values that we have to fight for within this paradigm In other words, sustainability and ethics are not inherent in capitalism; they are things we have to organize to attain. The incentives to keep producing cheap clothing on a mass scale greatly overwhelm the incentives to slow the industry down If we want to change this, we have to organize and change laws I mention technological change as well It is possible that society will advance to After that, we organized behind the extension of the life saving Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety, and the California Garment Worker Protection Act (SB62) And despite having fortune 500 companies like Walt Disney and Walmart lobby against us in California and having quite frankly many old white men tell us we were naive, we won SB62. That victory was sweet because everyone told us it was impossible and it’s one of the most innovative and stringent labor laws that’s passed in any sector in recent history The California Governor listened to the voices of the state's mostly female Hispanic workforce and voted to enact the Garment Worker Protection Act The passage of SB62 in turn inspired US Senator Kirsten Gillibrand to approach us about doing a similar law at the federal level, which led to the introduction of the Fashioning Accountability and Real Institutional Change Act (FABRIC ACT) in May of this year
HOW HAS YOUR EXPERIENCE BEEN WITH WORKING WITH REMAKE? IT’S QUITE INSPIRING TO SEE HOW INVOLVED YOU’VE GOTTEN ESPECIALLY WITH LEADING THEIR #PAYUP CAMPAIGN. WHAT HAS BEEN THE MOST FULFILLING MOMENT(S) FOR YOU? WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF? a point where fashion is not necessary to economic growth or material wealth. Think for example how we use less wood today and more plastic or less coal today and more oil and renewable energy Or the change we ’ re undergoing away from physical workplaces to digital to workplaces But that would be a very long transition, and I can’t imagine it would happen in our lifetimes. There have been so many victories, and we cherish each one of them because we know that the window of change is often open for just a brief moment. During the #PayUp campaign, we won back $22 billion in money from 25 major fashion brands, avoiding likely millions of jobs lost and hundreds of millions of dollars in stolen wages 27
INTERVIEWS
DO YOU FEEL LIKE THE INDUSTRY AS A WHOLE IS ACTUALLY STARTING TO EVOLVE?
FOLLOW REMAKE FOLLOW ELIZABETH
I would say that it’s small sustainable and ethical brands that are leading the way They scored four times higher than big brands in Remake’s Accountability report, and they tend to start from the premise that they are responsible for what happens in their supply chain whereas big companies still take responsibility only for what they have to and for what they can make money off of. And yes we do have a long way to go towards making fashion more responsible, and the reason for that goes back to something I said at the top: Brands aren’t actually accountable for what happens in their supply chain in most jurisdictions Thus, we ’ re expecting them to do something that they’re not legally required to do and the incentives in the industry encourage them not to do Our report will keep showing massive gaps between promises and progress as long as brands are not accountable for their supply chain under the law or under binding agreements like the Accord between workers and brands.
WHAT DID YOU FIND THE MOST SURPRISING, EXCITING, AND ALSO FRUSTRATING ABOUT THIS REPORT?
AFTER REMAKE’S ACCOUNTABILITY REPORT IT’S CLEAR THAT MID SIZE FASHION BRANDS ARE LEADING THE WAY IN TERMS OF ACCOUNTABILITY AND TRANSPARENCY. IT ALSO SEEMS LIKE WE STILL HAVE A WAYS TO GO FOR THE INDUSTRY AS A WHOLE.
READING
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WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU? Starting this fall, I’m thrilled to announce that I’ll be teaching a course on fashion policy at Columbia University in their Sustainability Masters program. Please follow Remake’s Instagram and our Campaigns page to get the latest updates and participate in collective action One thing I’m most proud of with our work at Remake is that we make it easy for people to get involved and to understand the issues We make it easy to send an email to a brand, call a Senator, post to your Instagram feed, and we provide our community with accessible information about why what they’re doing matters. ◼
@ sarahchuck INTERVIEWS 30
As a young mom, I dabbled in refashioning altering or adorning clothes for my daughter when she was little (and still wore what I picked out) I added tulle, ruffles, and patches with sequins to t shirts, attached silk remnants to t shirt hems or straps onto adult sized skirts to make them into dresses So when I took up sewing in earnest at the start of the pandemic, I had some basic sewing skills I could apply to making my own garments Sewing also opens up my thrifting world, and vice versa. If I find a treasure that isn’t quite right for me, I can always try to alter it. And I especially love to find vintage bed sheets and fabric remnants while thrifting to use for sewing projects And don’t get me started on the world of dyeing, which I recently started experimenting with
I
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I’ve always known my overflowing closet was a sign of overconsumption, and I still struggle with that But it was actually on Instagram and the whole slow fashion movement there that opened my eyes to it and led me on the 6 paths to slow fashion
“I’m working on my slow fashion journey by ditching fast fashion and focusing on my six paths of slow fashion – shopping my closet, making handmade clothing, refashioning existing pieces, buying from sustainable brands and curated shops, and thrifting.”
TELL US ABOUT WHAT YOU’RE CURRENTLY WORKING ON. YOU’RE A MOM TO THREE! LIFE MUST BE PRETTY HECTIC.
“My grandmother was a maker and my mom is a thrifter I like to think those things run in my blood My grandmother was an obstetrician and spent long hours waiting for deliveries She sewed, crocheted, and knit, and often had a ball of yarn and needles with her at the hospital to keep her hands busy while waiting. Keeping her hands busy is an understatement. She made all of my mom ’ s clothes when she was growing up. I still have a beautiful crocheted maxi skirt she made that I love to wear My mom is a lifelong thrifter I tagged along with her as a child to many consignment and thrift shops Once I became a teenager with my own money from part time jobs, I often frequented thrift shops for statement vintage pieces like coats, button downs, and dresses. Now I take my own teenagers thrifting.
you ’ ve been following Sarah’s blog Sar Wears and Instagram, you get a sense of calm, laid back slow fashion with a feminine boho vibe. Her style, personality and love for slow fashion is something that is deeply rooted in both her mother and grandmother's background as both makers and lifelong thrifters.
But I think my aha moment and I will never forget this was a text I got from my son when he was a freshman in high school I had texted him to ask if he was leaving school to head downtown for the climate strike, and he replied, “I might because I realized an education won’t matter if we all die of climate change ”
I hadn’t understood the burden that our children had been carrying around with them until I read that text. And that my role needed to be an active one in showing them that I could make changes too. So I guess you could say that although this journey is a very personal one for me, when it comes down to it, it’s really all about the kids
On Instagram, I stumbled on a 10x10 style challenge, where you pick 10 items and style them over 10 days. The concept was so novel to me, and so cool to see how we could stretch our closets. I participated in that challenge, and also remember how uncomfortable I felt taking a photo of myself I had always been on the other side of the camera!
HOW DID YOU BEGIN YOUR SUSTAINABILITY JOURNEY? DID YOU HAVE AN “AH-HA” TYPE MOMENT? You know, I was never too keen on fast fashion, but while my weight fluctuated quite dramatically after having each of my 3 children, I definitely dabbled in cheaply made clothes that were meant to fit my body in the short term And that left a bad taste in my mouth
Finding a warm and like minded community of people from all over the world was and continues to be what kept me going on this journey.
My life is a constant state of organized chaos I don’t quite remember a time when I didn’t take on too much. But I have learned to say no over the years, and that’s a great skill to embrace!. I usually have a few goals each day, and really require decent stretches of time to get in the zone for whatever tasks I need to accomplish So every day looks different By day, I am a self taught interior designer. I fell into this after teaching elementary school then having my own home staging business. Currently, I’m working on a gutted 3 level Edwardian But my main job is as a mom of three teens Everyone asks me if kids are easier once they get older And the answer is yes and no They don’t need you around the clock, but when they do, their problems are bigger and the stakes are higher. The world they have been forced to navigate is challenging. I don’t know how they do it. I just try to support them and let them figure things out for themselves City kids are exposed to a lot, but I wouldn’t have it any other way I find pockets of time throughout the week to batch content and always keep a notepad to jot down ideas when inspiration hits. I’ve pulled back to posting 3 4 times a week. I would rather create quality content over quantity I’ve also been shooting more branded content It takes some thought to figure out how to mesh a brand’s aesthetic with mine I try to be very intentional about the brands I work with and the pieces that I shoot, which requires some research and often some back and forth. It’s not just a brand sending me something and me shooting it and scribbling down a caption but I love it! Sometimes I have to pause and pinch myself to believe that brands I’ve admired want to see me in their clothes!
I've been experimenting with videos a lot more I appreciate the way videos can show movement in the clothes, and the process of putting an outfit together. It’s funny to go back and look at my first videos, but each one gets a little better (I think?) Although I enjoy them, they do take a lot more time and energy! During other moments of free time, if I’m not sewing, I’m probably dreaming up my next sewing project in the back of my head, or sourcing thrifted bed sheets or deadstock fabrics to make things with I am especially into making the dresses of my dreams I think it might have to do with growing up in my brother’s hand me downs and rarely getting to wear dresses, which I desperately pined for And yes, I remember pining for them, even at a young age!
YOU’RE VERY MUCH AN ADVOCATE FOR VINTAGE AND THRIFTING. WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR A SECOND HAND NEWBIE? Oh, I love this question! I remember dragging my daughter around to thrift shops, and one day instead of asking me how long I would take, she started sifting through the racks herself. Thrift shops can be overwhelming If they’re organized in a certain way and you ’ re not up for searching all the racks, bring a thrift list and start with a section you ’ re particularly into INTERVIEWS
I have an event coming up and some sheer silk organza deadstock, and right now I’m in the sketching phase of the project I’m looking forward to digging into that But I’ve recently taken up knitting, and completed my first few pieces including the Misha and Puff scout scarf (on my third one) and a vest from a Wool and the Gang kit.
It seems keeping my hands busy is really calming, and it’s so satisfying to see a slow project like that come to fruition. Like I made that! Every darn stitch!
If you ’ re still feeling unsure, ask others for thrift shop recs, or bring a friend or fellow thrifter I like to hit the shops when they first open they’re less crowded and messy Our fitting rooms are still closed due to pandemic practices, so if you ’ re comfortable trying pieces on in the aisles, then wear leggings, shorts, or a flowy dress or skirt to help you do it more discreetly If not, you can take your measurements at home and bring a tape measure with you to get a sense of whether something will fit. Vintage sizing can be especially inconsistent, so I scour all the racks and ignore the size labels. There are also a ton of curated secondhand and vintage sellers out there to help you out If you find some you connect with, they can be a valuable resource They’re also on eBay and etsy, but I follow a handful of vintage sellers on Instagram and they’re great. Here are a few, all women owned, many BIPOC: @wovenfolk @idaandmoon @dancingkind @ahoy style @closetchronology @whaleofatime wears @shop suki @tellthemitsvintage @lalisimone @ lindalandvintage
I’m still really into balance and creating outfits with opposing forces masculine and feminine or hard and soft, for example So I continue to explore this balance as my style evolves
I’ve also truly discovered the joy of dressing and how it can really change your mindset to wear colors, textures, silhouettes or combinations that make you happy!
I always search out the long dresses, then the short ones, tops and sweaters If there’s a vintage rack, I’m there And don’t forget the men ’ s Vintage tees, and oversized blazers and button downs are abundant.
LOVE THAT YOU ARE A 40ISH BLOGGER. HOW DO YOU FEEL YOUR STYLE HAS EVOLVED SINCE DISCOVERING SUSTAINABILITY AND SLOW FASHION?
So pieces that I could or wanted to sew became a big part of my closet like house dresses and pants with elastic waistbands
With sewing, I’ve gained a greater appreciation for construction details, and have gravitated toward more hand crafted pieces, with special attention to small details. I also love finding independent designers, and made to order or customizable pieces.
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I really started digging into slow fashion in earnest during the pandemic Everyone spent so much time at home that comfort became a priority I began sewing clothes for myself during this time, too
WHAT ARE YOUR (NEW) FAVORITE BRANDS?
There are so many, and I can’t name them all. But here are a few: Beklina, Kin the Label, Tradlands, Unspun, California Cloth Foundry, Ana and Zac, L’envers, Longway California, Leze the Label, Hansel from Basel, Misha and Puff, Adelante Shoes, Lo & Sons, Sheena Marshall Jewelry, Conscious Clothing, Noble WHAT OTHER CONTENT CREATORS/BLOGGERS DO YOU FOLLOW/LIKE? There is so much inspiring content out there. This is going to be a giant list And there are so many more! I try very hard to highlight my faves and inspiring content in my stories or posts as much as possible Instagram is a place where we can really lift each other up I especially love supporting my Asian sisters! ◼
SEWING ACCOUNTS @suechinglascelles @the weekend sewist @siri kate @spaghetti western sewing @slowsewed @hann made @yoursara k @theladywholunches @the.sewcialite @fun ec @geri in stitches @contour affair @fivespicepower @melt.stitches @ inthemaking @anna mariah @abby sews @alexdaviesliving @s is for sew @caitsnyd sews @bookhou @leila sews @iusedtobeacurtain @helloarielchristine @heyheyhotdog @imanorbyah @market gal @bashfulleo @pleaseandmahalo @thisisjen2 0 @styleisstyle @calexan4 @alterationfinds @jessica.harumi @penny petite @hersimplesole @coco.fe.coco @acjarrett @mamma see mamma do I recently asked my Instagram followers to describe my aesthetic and this is what some of them said: “feminine outdoorsy,” “comfortable joy,” “flirty tomboy,” “gangsta cowboy,” “eclectic boho,” “effortless, west coast cool,” and “femme tomboy.” It’s so eye opening to see how others perceive your style!
STYLING/THRIFTING/SUSTAINABILITY ACCOUNTS @jen griswold @girlthrifted @candicemtay @uncomplicatedspaces @semi joan @homerunballerina @shokotatara @areasontogetdressed @kales.joy @foggywears @chloegoslowly @cookiecat.herine @marikoashley @mingdliu @the.thrifted.gay @ahistoryofarchitecture @thismomsgonnasnap @annazzon @styleapproximately @roz creativestylist
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Slow Living as a Way of Life
A Day in Life of Danielle Alvarado of Sustainably Kind Living living is what she describes as “it’s simply the way of life here” This is perfectly illustrated in her Day in the Life of feature. From her non existent alarm clock, to taking two hour siestas in the afternoon, Danielle’s way of life can inspire you to not only slow down, but enjoy the simple pleasures of daily life Whether that is consuming less, snuggling with your kids, or a coffee break with friends, we can all take a page from Danielle’s life and apply it to our own lives.
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o you ever scroll Instagram only to be instantly stopped by when he was around 17 years old and studied to become an Engineer Almost immediately he met my mother (who is Irish Italian) and they have been together ever since a true love story right there. They went through a lot as a bi racial couple in those days I was raised with a mixture of Irish culture and Mexican culture My mother was a big party thrower and did a wonderful job bringing the two families together as much as she could. I have one brother and one sister, but we also had 3 of my cousins and even an aunt and uncle living with us from time to time Not to mention a ton of pets dogs, hamsters, mice, snails you name it My mother has a heart of gold she helps anyone in need. Our home was always filled with people, D not only the most serene and beautiful looking photo, but then you continue to go down the rabbit hole of checking out their entire IG profile photos? This is what happened upon discovering Danielle Alvarado of Sustainably Kind Living Not only does Danielle share eco friendly tips and sustainable fashion brands, but she shares her life with her audience which includes her beautiful family and incredible lifestyle based in Cypress on the Mediterranean Sea While the majority of us are consistently trying to achieve a slower lifestyle not only in the form of fashion, but in general, Danielle’s way of HI DANIELLE! TELL US MORE ABOUT YOURSELF, HOW YOU GREW UP AND YOUR BACKGROUND. I grew up on the southside of Chicago My father was born and raised in Mexico and moved to Chicago officially
chaos, and love. My father had a great job, my mother’s job allowed her to be home with us, and we had a very comfortable life. I never imagined I would leave Chicago and my family, but I ended up going on quite the adventure and left home at 20 years old I am now 35 years old and I am still on that adventure only coming back to Chicago for yearly visits. During that time I served in the United States Navy, traveled the world solo, fell madly in love while in Italy, built a family in South Tyrol, and more. My family has been nothing but supportive and loving during all of my years away, and for that I am forever grateful
I shocked everyone when I decided to walk away because for the last 6 years I had worked my absolute hardest to be number one whatever that even means I had a bit of an addiction to “proving myself” to the men I decided to go back to school and travel. I was able to combine the two by opting for study abroad lessons, and I ended up studying while traveling through Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, Austria, France, and Italy It was during these travels when I came face to face with the truth of the hell that is fast fashion and mass produced products. While in Cambodia, I lived in an orphanage and talked to many locals about the clothing factories, wages, security and more The stories were heartbreaking It was at this time that the fire was lit for Sustainably Kind Living I fell in love while living in Austria with a South Tyrolean man (who is now my husband) and this really sealed my fate for the future A year later I gave birth to my identical twin sons and we officially decided to live in Europe for the foreseeable future and raise the children in Currently, I live on the island of Cyprus on the Mediterranean Sea with my husband and identical twin sons I am lucky enough to have a job that is my ultimate passion: teaching others about sustainability and learning about sustainability every single day from my elders, local friends, shop keepers, and various communities around the world. What they say is correct: when you work for yourself, you work 24/7. I feel blessed to live in Europe during this time in my business life the culture here forces me to stay balanced Ocean swim before work Night time beach walk to unwind Always time in the day for a coffee or tea break with friends Cuddles are welcome from morning to night. And this is my life. A balance of everything I love.
Let me be clear here, I was the opposite of sustainable for most of my young adult life I loved fast fashion, spending far too many hours scrolling for a deal or a trend to add to my closet. I partied a ton, drank like a fish, and even smoked ‘casually”. While in the military I felt very much caged and used consumerism to feel “free” and it was extremely toxic I knew I had to leave the military when I was 27 years old something was pulling me away (which I still think was my kids).
this magical land that looked straight out of the sound of music but people spoke German and Italian and you could equally find the best margherita pizza next to a wienerschnitzel stand. I couldn’t work, for I did not speak either of the languages spoken there (German or Italian) and nobody would hire me Not to mention, I just gave birth to twins in a foregin country where the majority of folks did not speak english. It was a crazy time. My husband's police job paid enough for us to survive and survive we did. We couldn’t afford rent and moved into the basement of an elementary school to work as groundskeepers in exchange for rent I learned how to live without a dryer and hang all of our clothes. I learned how to live without air conditioning and survive on cold baths and one fan in the summer I learned how to pick the best fruits and vegetables for our meals and turn a few ingredients into an epic meal for our family I learned how to make bread, sourdough, and cleaning sprays with just vinegar and lemon peels. I taught myself how to properly sew, mend, repair, and stitch. To be frank, I did not do this because I wanted to be “sustainable” I did this because we were poor And goodness me, this is where my life changed for the better I began sharing these things on facebook with family and friends. I remember I did a little video on how to properly cut an onion and everyone freaked out I still laugh thinking about it It’s like none of us had any REAL life skills we all just knew how to shop, order in, and call
INTERVIEWS
HOW DID YOU GET INTO SUSTAINABILITY AND WHAT MADE YOU START SUSTAINABLY KIND LIVING?
WHAT DOES SLOW FASHION AND LIVING MEAN TO YOU? HOW DO YOU INCORPORATE THIS TYPE OF LIFESTYLE INTO YOUR EVERYDAY LIFE?
I wouldn’t say I incorporate slow living and slow fashion into my lifestyle. Slow living IS the only way I live and it’s the only way folks around me live. It’s simply the way of life here. Our family wakes up slow no alarm clocks Not a single one The only time we set alarms in this house is when we are baking a cake or some bread We will happily lay around for a solid hour before even getting up, with my kids sprawled all over me and all of us with books in hand. I’m usually reading something witchy and the kids love to read books on boats and cars. I haven’t purchased a single item on my phone in over 2 years Shopping is never on my mind other than heading to the farmers market and getting first pick on the most gorgeous mediterranean produce that this island has to offer. And when it comes to fashion, I have a capsule for each season and I never spend more than 3 minutes in picking an outfit Slow fashion, to me, means so much more than buying from a slow fashion brand Now, mind you, in my line of work, brands are literally trying to THROW clothes at me (yes, even the most sustainable ones). Slow fashion is choosing a piece that you truly love (that isn’t just free or on sale or trendy) and then taking care of that piece with all that love you have mending, repairing, stitching, tailoring, repurposing, upcycling. There is nothing slow about buying from a bunch of slow fashion brands and tossing them in your closet There is also nothing slow about accepting endless gifts from slow fashion brands just because it's free. A lesson I had to learn real quick in this industry You can have a sustainable closet with old fast fashion purchases You can have a sustainable closet with a closet filled with your mom ' s old clothes (which I’m pretty sure are back “in style”). The closet can be filled with sustainable brands or second hand finds Whatever it is you got going on, it can be sustainable But here’s the trick: you must actually wear those clothes on repeat, learn how to mix and match them, teach yourself how to repair and mend them when needed (hello, youtube!), and only add more items to the closet when you have a hole that needs to be filled Voila your closet is now considered to be a sustainable one
someone to fix this or that All of our skills were lost And I had a brilliant idea to re skill us, one video or lesson at a time It started off with mostly food things. I would share how to peel ginger and make ginger shots, or turn a few potatoes and lentils into the best dish you ’ ve ever had (for only about $2 a pot). I couldn’t believe how much this helped my little circle This eventually turned into a website and I shared all of these things there for free, with whoever wanted to learn Sustainable fashion was always lingering in the back of my mind because of my time in Cambodia. After a couple of years of sharing tips on sustainability in the kitchen, I decided to officially get to work on my passion talking about the fast fashion industry, how we can make our closets more sustainable with what we got, normalizing outfit repeating, and so much more I tested it on social media first and it did beautifully Folks really wanted to learn more and I was more than willing to educate. All of the income that I had made in the first website was used to fuel the second website, and SKL was born. Fast forward to today and we are now a happy woman led team of 7!
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“Slow fashion is choosing a piece that you truly love (that isn’t just free or on sale or trendy) and then taking care of that piece with all that love you have mending, repairing, stitching, tailoring, repurposing, upcycling. There is nothing slow about buying from a bunch of slow fashion brands and tossing them in your closet.”
GIVE US A GLIMPSE INTO YOUR DAILY LIFE! Happily asleep with my two 5 year old7am: kids (most likely naked because it's hot here on the island) sprawled all over me My husband snuck out around 3 am to sleep in the kids *actual* bedroom to get some peace
Our bellies get us out of bed and we have9am: some breakfast Before we head downstairs, we brush our teeth for the morning and I do my short 3 step skincare routine which takes 2 minutes Quick brush through my hair and we are off I haven’t checked my phone yet because I have a strict rule of “ no phone until work starts” that has saved my sanity. We make strawberry banana smoothies almost daily and pair it with local avocado toast (yes, we have avocado trees all around us!) and nuts for a couple of hours to play legos and trains with the kids outside It’s during this time that my work begins I like to spread my work out in small increments throughout the day because I know myself very well If you let me work for 10 hours straight, I will And this isn’t healthy I work! The first thing I always do9:30 11:30 is check blog post drafts before anything. I need to make sure our writers have what they need for their articles to get them out for our community Our community drives our website and we like to get requests out within 14 days Next, I’ll head to the email inboxes and this usually takes an hour a day because of how many emails we receive Work stops promptly at 11:30 when the11:30 kids run into my bedroom. We head downstairs and begin preparing lunch. It’s usually pasta, pasta salad, sandwiches, or even a big pile of fruit depending on how hot it is My son, Leo, adores cooking and he will help me while Alessandro and my husband play
Our dear friend, Julia, who helps to9:30am care for the children while keeping them immersed in their German language, takes over
One of the kids kisses me on the head8am: and shouts in German “Guten Morgen, Mommy. Die Sonne scheint!” (good morning, mommy. The sun is shining!) I kiss both of them and we immediately grab our books and lay all over each other I keep a pile of about 30 books next to the bed on the floor in our Cyprus home
We eat on our outside patio with Julia11:45 and talk about all sorts of things Julia is from Germany and took an Au Pair job to live with us for 6 months She is 18 years old and we just love talking to her about everything and anything Someone usually jumps into the water at some point during lunch because it is so hot. 39
INTERVIEWS
Julia takes over once again to allow us2:00 time to work This time we work for 3 hours, but we have a coffee or tea break in the middle to split things up. Sometimes I’ll even jump in the water to cool down and then get back to it.
There’s always time for a break and I find that the more breaks I offer myself, the better my work is During this time I will publish an article, respond to even more emails, set up contracts, invoices, and have a few meetings if necessary
The kids are usually swimming this entire time with Julia they are very strong swimmers and have a blast I can see them from my workspace in my room. Kids run into my room again signaling to5:00 me that it's time to stop working and time to start playing. We eat the same revolving menu for dinner each week, so I never have to think about “what’s for dinner” and waste time I have a solid hour to play with the kids, which involves more swimming, diving, jumping, dance music, lego building, or skating My husband is the star during this hour as he can toss the kids nearly 15 feet above the water for epic cannon balls and superman throws. I begin prepping dinner Julia always6:00 helps me with the salad she makes the best Greek salads. I take over the roasting, baking, and whatnot Last night we had lemon zest lentils, greek salad, turmeric rice and roasted
We really take our time prepping dinner7:00 having lots of conversations and just going really slow and enjoying the process We serve dinner around 7, after allowing the food to cool down a bit because, again, it’s just too hot We sit outside and have another meal together The sun is setting earlier now that it’s8:00 nearly August, so the kids head upstairs to our bedroom around this time. Earlier in the summer they would have an extra hour of play time but my children sleep with the sun. We bathe them or do a quick wipe down, brush their teeth, and then read some more books or sing songs They always fall asleep in my arms and then I slowly sneak out once they are both sound asleep I then open all of the sliding glass doors to let the air in (anytime before this we have to keep them tightly shut because of mosquitos) and run a fan on them Bed time usually takes an hour with the kids and is one of my favorite times spent with them. They always have so much to say at bedtime. I know it will be a key time in our relationship as mother and sons as they grow older
This is our “siesta” time Yes, we12:00-2:00 take our siesta quite seriously! The kids can read, nap, or draw Martin always naps I usually get sucked into one of my books again carrots Tonight we will have roasted chickpea tacos After I sneak out, I go to my husband and9:00 we will do a little bit more work (just tying up loose ends from the day) and then cuddle and either talk, watch something, or read until we wish to go to sleep. We do not have a set bedtime. It’s when we feel it’s time. This is usually quite early ◼
INTERVIEWS
EDUCATION
How can adopt smaller slow fashion brand's principles?"
Big Brands
T
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he term slow fashion for big brands can be an oxymoron as the goal for a large brand is always to grow as quickly as possible. With that comes the creation of more products, more waste, unethical production, and the push for over consumption. But what if big brands could take a page from a smaller and slower brand. Can a mindset shift help these larger brands adopt some of these principles to dramatically reduce their carbon footprint and create products that are more meaningful, sustainable with longevity?
Here’s what four founders of slow fashion brands had to say:
“"Slow fashion brands excel at designing for longevity. We choose quality materials and focus on construction, resulting in products that last. Bigger brands would do well to focus less on cheap products designed for a fleeting trend, and focus on products that last in styles that endure." -MARIANNA SACHSE, FOUNDER OF JACKALO
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“I would advise not to wait to embrace slow fashion principles until an organization can do it perfectly, and don’t let bureaucracy stand in the way. When we’re operating within our own small brand, we can explore and implement sustainability improvements quickly and without committee. It’s too easy for big companies to make big promises, fail to meet those promises, and then hide behind slick branding. The rest of the brand is too sexy to resist, so big companies get away with this in the short term, at least. Small brands can’t get away with these failures. There’s no slick branding to hide behind. But conscious consumers know, and stakeholder value suffers in the long run when big companies take shortcuts in their efforts to brand themselves as sustainable.”
-KRISTY
CULLINANE FOUNDER OF PLUM DIAMONDS 46
XI CHEN, FOUNDER OF SONDERLIER 47
“As a slow fashion brand, we design versatile pieces that can last a long time with an intention to reduce fashion consumption and waste, and for us the fair treatment of workers and the environment is a bottomline of our operations. For a big organization to adopt these principles, I think the key is in cultivating a genuine mindset change from within. To do that, hiring people with a background in sustainability and forming a dedicated team will be key, allowing the team to educate the rest of the company and work with existing departments to develop sustainable strategies. With that, I believe big brands can achieve significant positive influence by exercising their negotiation power for social and environmental good.”
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ALICE
“Big brands can adopt smaller slow fashion brand’s principles by getting frequent and direct customer feedback to validate demand before going to market. Oftentimes, big brands focus on providing a large breadth of assortment as quickly as possible which can create excess and waste. Also, taking the time to choose ethical manufacturers who pay fair wages and benefits, along with using higher quality, sustainable materials matter. These may be more costly and take more time but in the long run are better for the consumer and the environment.” KIM, FOUNDER OF PERFECT DD
A Beginners to Slow Fashion
Guide
We’ve seen a rise in slow fashion over the years, with sustainable brands like Mara Hoffman, Collina Strada, and Alice + Olivia gracing runway ’ s and changing the game with their eco friendly collections In 2020, The Council of Fashion Designers of America released a report focused on the environmental impact of the most eventful week in fashion history Sustainability by Design: Rethinking New York Fashion Week, in hopes of promoting slow fashion practices and providing strategies for change Even in the high fashion realm, the industry is developing. But, in order to realign fashion towards sustainability, we need to understand that slow fashion is more than buying from responsible brands and sustainable producers It’s also about advocating for sustainable practices, and truly seeking for our wardrobes to reflect our respect for the planet all things that directly oppose the core characteristics embedded in the world of fast fashion
Slow Fashion
Fast Fashion has been dominating the industry for two decades and counting Physically, ethically, and environmentally, fast fashion has taken over the world and continues to hurt workers and the life the garments came from. That’s why learning about slow fashion and becoming a part of the movement is crucial.
Let’s start with what we mean when we say ‘slow fashion ’ It's a conscious approach to creating clothing where attention is paid to sustainability and the wellbeing of the people and our planet To put it simply, slow fashion focuses on quality over quantity, and in turn it provides its workers with fair wages, safe working conditions, and has less of an impact on our environment.
IT IS AN APPROACH TO FASHION THAT NOT ONLY AIMS TO MAKE CLOTHES THAT ARE VALUABLE AND LONG LASTING, BUT ALSO COMMITS TO LONG-TERM SUSTAINABILITY.
Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion
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Fast fashion values cheaper, speedier manufacturing and shipping methods, which result in waste, pollution, low wages, and unsafe working conditions. You’ve probably purchased from or have come across fast fashion in one way or another The ‘extreme clothing haul’ videos in which shoppers show off their latest mass order of cheap, low quality clothing remain popular amongst millions of Tik Tok users Down this rabbit hole, there are brands like H&M, Zara, Zaful, Romwe, and the most disastrous fast fashion e commerce retailer of them all Shein. These clothing hauls are where we can most easily see fast fashion in our lives. You’ve probably scrolled past one of these posts, yet almost none of us know the harm fast fashion actually does
Currently, the world consumes over 80 billion garments annually, with the fashion industry being responsible for over 10% of carbon emissions Fast fashions' relatively recent boom has set a terrifying scene for our planet. To move toward change, we must begin by spreading knowledge about the difference between the two practices.
EDUCATION
What do slow fashion practices look like?
So what do fast fashion practices look like?
Overconsumption plays a huge part in the continuous cycle of fast fashion where manufacturers create and then attempt to satisfy the world's appetite for cheap and quick clothing, and the consumer desires to stay up to date on the latest trend cycles This “take make dispose” model has created an endless loop of mass producing, which exploits workers, animals, and our environment
Popular brands produce this clothing by taking advantage of workers in places such as Vietnam, Indonesia, Turkey, and Cambodia. These Asian countries, which account for almost all fast fashion production, have extremely loose worker and environmental regulations As of now, this allows them to mass produce clothing and severely underpay their workers with virtually no consequences Fast Fashion seems to offer the same high quality clothing and creative designs that slow fashion has to offer at a cheaper price but in reality, you ' re getting unreliable garments that have come at the cost of humanity and our planet.
You’ll know when you see a fast fashion garment. If you can’t tell, then you’ll know by the feel Fast fashion brands use synthetic fibers such as elastane and polyester to make their products, which feels plastic y to the touch, doesn't usually last in your wardrobe over time, and takes hundreds of years to decompose
For most, slow fashion practices probably look like redesigning old clothes, appreciating the pieces you already have, and buying vintage or second hand clothing (round of applause for all the thrifters out there). These are all ways you can incorporate slow fashion practices into your communities, spreading knowledge and feeling good about your fashion choices
Fast Fashion
For slow fashion manufacturers, designers, and brands, the practices might vary, but they should always be transparent Slow fashion brands always have clear information available about things like where they’re
A slow fashion shopper buys less, chooses carefully, and takes great care of their garments. Slow fashion tips
To get more involved, think about other slow fashion practices you can adopt whether that be hosting a clothing swap, purchasing second hand, or educating your friends With the combination of these practices, we can consume less and push the industry to move in a sustainable direction
But remember, slow fashion at its core is about appreciating the wardrobe you have, finding your own style, and slowly discovering the pieces you’ll love and cherish forever. But that doesn’t mean boring! Incorporating slow fashion doesn’t mean you’ll be wearing neutral tones and old pieces It’s more about building your personal style and straying away from trends that might not actually suit your taste in the long run
Madison Bailey is a Senior Psychology major at Appalachian State University, where she serves as a writer for The Collective a student run fashion and culture magazine, and is the President of App State’s Her Campus chapter. When she’s not writing, Madison can be found thrifting, sipping matcha, or cooking her favorite vegan meals
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The Slow Fashion Movement is about taking a look at the way we consume fashion. It requires us to actually think about where the clothes we wear come from. To motivate these thoughts, ask questions Does this piece suit my style? Do I like how it feels? Do I need this piece in my wardrobe? Do I feel good supporting the maker? Slow fashion is quite literally, slow Slow down to ask yourself these questions, and you’ll eventually adopt all of the practices of a slow fashion expert.
products are being made, what materials they use, and what their packaging and delivering looks like True slow fashion brands usually have traceable supply chains, produce in small batches, and make sure they are using high quality, sustainable materials.
A wardrobe that incorporates slow fashion will also include natural fibers like cotton and recycled materials If you ’ re new to slow fashion and looking for some fabric options, recycled cotton, organic hemp, and organic linen are some of the rising stars in the slow fashion world
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Creating a
The “ah ha” moment for us was the voice of our growing community; the momentum that Slow Fashion Movement gained over Collaction’s other campaigns on Slow Food and Slow Travel. Fashion has long been a tool of individual and collective expression and historical and political change, our movement embodies it all Sustainability for us is about sustenance of our human resources as much as our natural resources As the Slow Fashion Movement has grown to include our local chapters, the voices of many communities most adversely impacted by the fashion industry have come to light. Across India, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Turkey, SWANA, LATAM and beyond, the burden of exploitative labour practices and waste management from the fashion industry is disproportionately felt by these communities has been dominating the fashion industry for over two decades now Not only is this business model one of the worst for the environment, but the way these billion dollar corporations continuously push their cheap and endless amounts of inventory on us is absolutely disgusting
DID
‘Slow Fashion Movement’. ARE YOU SO PASSIONATE ABOUT SLOW FASHION? YOU HAVE AN “AH HA” TYPE MOMENT? MADE YOU DIVE DEEPER INTO SUSTAINABILITY?
WHY
WHAT
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Luckily, a movement started back in the summer of 2018 which came from a campaign called CrowdAction (www collaction org) which enables people to set up pledges to motivate crowds to make small changes Their philosophy: “Our individual actions are a drop in the ocean But together, we make waves!” led to a movement which started as Slow Fashion Summer asking people to not buy any new clothes for 90 days in an attempt to counter over consumption and related environmental and social issues fueled by the fast fashion industry The campaign was conducted again in 2019 as ‘Slow Fashion Season’, and again in 2020, which ended up being our biggest season yet with 10,000+ pledgers Citing this success as space for us to be able to create greater impact they transitioned from a three month campaign to an annual campaign as Fast fashion and overconsumption
Our founders’ and team members’ passion for Slow Fashion Movement is rooted in our passion for climate activism Our climate reality is increasingly daunting and with the fashion industry being one of the largest contributors to climate change an industry overhaul is long overdue
Slow Fashion Season 2020 with 10,000+ people pledging to not buy any new clothes for 90 days.
Building on the foundation laid by the likes of Remake and Fashion Revolution, we want to transform the fashion industry with consumers and community as agents of change
To realize our vision of a fashion ecosystem that protects the physical well being of the planet and its people, we want to highlight the environmental impact of the fashion industry and develop sustainable solutions
That’s why we ’ re committed to our vision of a fashion ecosystem that protects the physical well being of the planet AND its people
ALSO, IF YOU CAN SPEAK ABOUT BECOMING AN NGO THE PROCESS, WHY YOU CHOSE THAT ROUTE AND THAT SPECIFIC JOURNEY. After we became an annual campaign as ‘Slow Fashion Movement’ we added two more campaigns to our activities:
SFM’s mission is to educate and empower fashion consumers to make environmentally and socially conscious choices As part of this mission we encourage our consumers to:
WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR BIGGEST ACCOMPLISHMENTS?
Activists calling for change from Fast Fashion brands generating 600+ content pieces including stories, hashtags, IG posts, IG comments and emails
WHAT ARE SFM GOALS OR MISSION?
Cut The Seasons 2021 with 383 Slow Fashion
Established 23+ local teams to strengthen our presence as a ‘Glocal’ movement
Slow Down Less shopping, more wearing and sharing Choose Consciously Make informed fashion decisions that support environmental and social sustainability. Connect Be a part of the slow fashion community by exchanging knowledge and inspiration
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HOW
CURRENT/UPCOMING
Slow Fashion Season is returning in 2022 in a new form! Instead of asking our slow fashion community and the larger fashion consumer mass to not buy new clothes for 90 days, we ’ re asking them to not buy new clothes for just 30 days 2022 has been an overwhelming year already for a multitude of reasons and we do not want to burden our audiences with radical obligations. We believe incremental actions at a collective level is the most sustainable way to make a change. This does not mean that we want to take away from the urgency of making the shift to sustainable and ethical fashion practices Rather, we want our audiences to know that the responsibility of a better fashion industry does not rest solely on their shoulders and that progress over perfection is sustainable progress Whether you consider yourself a seasoned Slow Fashionista or are just getting started with your slow fashion journey, we would love for you to join us in a pledge to not buy any new clothes from September 1st 31st 2022 Instead, we invite you to join us across Instagram, LinkedIn and the SFM Blog to explore the depths of how we can make the shift to a conscious fashion lifestyle and how we can support the development of sustainable solutions as fashion consumers We will be looking at some of the biggest dilemmas all of us face on this journey and how we can resolve them as a community through our community challenges. You can pledge for Slow Fashion Season 2022 on www.slowfashion.global
TELL US MORE ABO CAMPAIGN? CAN PEOPLE GET INVOLVED?
‘Know Your ’ an educational campaign that provides consumers with an in depth look at the supply chain of a staple garment in their wardrobe 2021 looked at Jeans #KnowYourJeans We collaborated with Fashion Revolution for the #TakeBackBlackFriday campaign. With the success of both these campaigns, alongside Slow Fashion Season 2021, we realized the potential to create even greater impact and the promise of the NGO track in helping us achieve this The process required us to not only build on what we had already created, but also redirect our efforts in some ways We had the strong foundation of being an online first campaign and a fast growing community of fashion consumers in the midst of their shift to a slow fashion lifestyle. This helped us realize that we could become a consumer education platform that supported them along their slow fashion journeys And while other organizations within the sustainable and ethical fashion movement focused on the implications of fashion on people, consumers and supply chain workers included, we saw potential in focusing on both the people and the planet So our renewed focus on the environmental impact of the fashion industry. We are now a registered NGO headquartered in the Netherlands with 23+ local chapters (not registered yet) and 100+ global ambassadors
hauls, Screw this fashion movement is taking over the world.
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Just like the ‘fast fashion movement’ has their #sheinhauls and influencers bragging about how many pieces of clothing they can purchase for less than $100, the slow fashion movement is gaining huge momentum and clout. With over 10,000 people last year taking a pledge to slow down with their purchases and shop more intentionally, Slow Fashion Movement the non profit organization is making great strides in pushing less consumption around the world. As a global movement, SFM now has 23 “global” teams pushing this message and participating in the largest slow fashion movement in the world Read on to see how this amazing movement transpired and how each country is pushing the needle in each of their own countries in unique ways.
HOW DO YOU FEEL YOUR COUNTRY PRACTICES SLOW FASHION OR LIVING COMPARED TO THE REST OF THE WORLD?
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There is a high chance to adapt some ancient practices without partaking in cultural appropriation since these mostly sustainable fabrics and the creation of biodegradable materials can be adapted to high technology, but we recognize that there must be regulations so that these practices stay sustainable and so that we can avoid exploitation of cultures that are not ours, though we share land and some traditions.
Slow Fashion Latin America brings slow and sustainable fashion subjects to the Hispanic, specifically to the Latinx community, taking into consideration local context, language, and amount of information already available, thus practicing intersectional slow fashion and finding common ground among the 21 countries that Latin America encompasses. We understand and embrace all the values promoted by the Slow Fashion Movement and focus on implementing tangible actions in their communities.
Latin American countries hold great potential in the steps taken on the road to sustainable fashion: Traditional Latin American textiles contain high quality 100% natural raw materials, and are, of course locally sourced. In addition, ancient fashion practices carry traces of natural features and cultural elements unique to Latin American cultures even before the land was named as such, however, some of these practices have faded, either in colonization times or now, in imperialistic times, when the need to survive under capitalism wins over the wish of maintaining ancient practices, and unsustainable, polluting practices and materials are the ones that drive a big part of the economy of many Latin American countries WHAT DOES SLOW FASHION MEAN TO YOUR COUNTRY?
Indigenous people in Latin America are trying to continue their ancestors’ fabric making, natural dyeing, weaving, and braiding techniques with low budgets involving the traditions inherited for generations We also see accidentally sustainable practices from people living in poverty all over Latin America (which represent 33 7% of the Latin American population), these practices include fashion and style, however, either these practices are seen as less than and looked down upon or are tokenized and seen only as “cute” souvenirs worn and used for people outside the indigenous groups often disrespecting and exploiting the artisans We strive to recognize the right ways to support these vulnerable groups in a sustainable way; socially, economically, and environmentally
By educating the consumers and the producers, designers and sellers, we want to ensure a sustainable fashion business model, we also remind people that legislation is needed and that demanding change from policymakers is a right and a duty we all have with our planet and its people. In this regard, water resources should not be polluted, the health of every living thing should not be in danger, and employment should be created by encouraging local production and consumption cultures in vulnerable positions should not face assimilation, and the value of labor should be appreciated If even one of the sustainable and slow fashion techniques in Latin America were implemented (either consumption wise or production wise), by almost every country globally, a much better future would await us.
AUSTRALIA: Charlotte Brownlee: Slow fashion for Australia means taking a step back from our overconsumption and overproduction habits, and learning to value our clothes, including understanding who made them and what they're made of, so that we can honour people and the planet.
Roen Elise Dioquino: Slow fashion in the US means moderating our clothing consumption habits, adapting an environmentally conscious mindset, and advocating for those who create our clothing. Expanding the concept of Slow fashion would give our country the space to nurture and appreciate fashion in its entirety. The fashion industry is so complex but creating a space to grow and advance sustainability is vital to reach our first steps to success.
Elle Magana Mireles: Slow fashion in the United States is an opportunity to slow down the consumption of fast fashion, to take time to reflect on what clothing means, and to turn towards sustainable choices Western consumers are at the forefront of overconsumption and waste in the fashion industry. A massive transition towards slow fashion would mean more secondhand shops, community spaces that offer slow fashion tools and resources, and active citizens calling out fast fashion brands This change is possible. New York is already bubbling with slow fashion energy and is creating spaces to make slow fashion more accessible to those new to the topic. It is only a matter of time that all other states follow New York’s example.
PORTUGAL: Maria Marques: I think it's not a very well known concept in our country but I could say it's very mistaken with just shopping from sustainable brands or even just buying from eco friendly brands.
WHAT DOES SLOW FASHION MEAN IN YOUR COUNTRY/REGION?
UK: Cynthia Tze Keng Ko: In the UK, overconsumption and underutilization of clothes is one of its biggest problems, but thankfully wearing pre loved clothing is becoming more popular According to a study by WRAP: The average UK household owns around £4,000 worth of clothes Around 30% of clothing in wardrobes has not been worn for at least a year. Two thirds of UK consumers buy or receive pre owned (or second hand) clothes, and there is a willingness to wear more, especially if a better range were available.
USA: Ariela Lara: The fast fashion industry is continuously being exposed for its negative environmental and social effects, however, to many the transparency and comprehension of the roaring impacts is not fully there. When we consider the long U S history of capitalistic ideals, we have become hinged with the glamorized ads, influencers, etc. Slow Fashion would bring us to educate, stir, and organize, because there is power, enthusiasm, and critical mindsets which can overall strengthen what slow fashion means in the United States It can take us to a point where we adopt a more anti capitalist view, and advocate for a production in clothing that is respecting the people and environment.
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PORTUGAL: Maria Marques: I feel that some of our older generations still maintain the mindset of fixing clothes and wearing them as much as you can Yet the younger generations lost much of that knowledge and prefer to go with fast fashion the good news is that there are some people that are starting to turn the tide
UK: Cynthia Tze Keng Ko: We have a rich amount of secondhand/charity/thrift stores in the UK that should be our first choice rather than brands such as Primark, boohoo, Pretty Little Thing, Miss Guided, Missy Empire, etc Many more consumers are now into pre loved fashion There is also much more awareness around the unethical garment worker conditions in the UK, rather than just those outside of the UK
HOW DO
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AUSTRALIA: Charlotte Brownlee: Australia has a lot of incredible slow fashion labels and, if you actively go looking for it, there are many organisations here to educate us about slowing down our living and impact Australia is also lucky to have a local group representing the country for Slow Fashion Movement and Fashion Revolution Although, there is still work to do and lots more learning to be done.
USA: Ariela Lara: The work is being carried out by the collaborative movements, the organizers that are pushing acts, advocacy campaigns, uplifting more sustaining fashion practices, and so much more. This comes from communities of diverse people, carrying an open mind to the undercurrents from these major clothing companies and the industry itself. I come across grassroots groups, slow fashion advocators, sustainable small businesses, organizations within the country taking transformative action. However, to this day, the U S media portrayal is filled with hauls and company sponsorships Slow fashion is not fully practiced within the country and most of the time its true meaning is covered by the “greenwashing” praise I would say that over the years you can see secondhand shopping to be more uplifted, and there is more attention being brought at the forefront to a responsible and conscious way of buying. We should reach a point when we think more about life sustaining materials and how the people producing these goods are treated. There is still so much work that needs to be pushed forward through many sectors, but it takes a collective effort, a revolutionary effort. YOU FEEL YOUR COUNTRY PRACTICES SLOW FASHION OR LIVING COMPARED OF THE
TO THE REST
EDUCATION
Elle Magana Mireles: Slow fashion is practiced mostly by shopping. Thrift stores have grown as demand for secondhand clothing has grown. No longer is there a stigma to shop used Instead, it is cool to buy unique pieces from second hand boutiques and shops. This has lead to a consumeristic angle to sustainability in the fashion industry. Although this transition helps avoid consumption of fast fashion, it still caters to current trends and material ways of participating in the movement. Slow fashion in the United States can and should embrace anti captistlist sustainability practices that include mending, reusing and recycling This would allow more creativity and solidarity to be built in local communities across the nation And would help emulate community oriented countries that value teamwork, partnerships and collaboration.
Roen Elise Dioquino: Slow fashion/lifestyle is not only kept in the hands of those who concretely want to create a lasting impact, rather it’s everyone ' s responsibility. It’s been proven that a lot of people would shop sustainably if it was deemed convenient in their case As the nation becomes more aware of fast fashion’s environmental impacts, the more brands and consumers will sort of counteract each other The more that is revealed in the media about fast fashion practices, more consumers confront the issue when they’re clothes shopping or wasting What I can understand of slow fashion lifestyles in the US is that most of it is generally media influenced Generating the secondhand clothing boom over the past few years is very evident of that.
FAST SLOW F A S H I O N A MINDSET SHIFT VS EDUCATION 66
FAST FASHION SLOW FASHION TIMELESS / SEASONLESS VS PROMOTES TRENDY ITEMS EDUCATION 67
FAST FASHIO LOW HION VS OD QUALITY THAT LAST A LIFETIME MADE CHEAPLY A MEANT TO BE WO COUPLE TIMES EDUCATION 68
FAST FASHIO SLOW ASHION VS MADE LOCALLY IN SMALL BATCHES MADE CHEAPLY IN BULK EDUCATION 69
FAST FASHION SLOW ASHION VS SMALL CAPSULE COLLECTIONS RELEASED SEASONALLY PROMOTES THOUSANDS OF STYLES RELEASED DAILY EDUCATION 70
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