Global Garbs - A Sustainable Fashion Magazine by Global Garbs

global garbs A SUSTAINABLE FASHION MAGAZINE Issue 4 | Summer/Fall 2021

HOW TO BUILD YOUR SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE

THE TRANSPARENCY ISSUE

With GoodOnYou

THE IMPORTANCE OF BUYING FAIR TRADE

GLOBAL GARBS Editor-in-chief Lauren Tanaka-Fortune

In partnership with

Editorial Marketing

Contributors & Interviews

directory

LIFESTYLE

SUSTAINABLE ESSENTIALS: THE HOME EDIT

LEADING BY DESIGN How solar brand SOLIOS is saving batteries and the rainforest one watch at at time.

SUMMER TO FALL ESSENTIALS Wear now and wear later

LAYERING STYLE GUIDE

FOUNDER INTERVIEW

with Washed Ashore

Sandra Coppeni of GoodonYou app

EDUCATION 23

REDUCING CO2 IN FINE JEWELRY With Washed Ashore

THE IMPORTANCE OF FAIR TRADE By Adila Kokar of The Good Tee

TRANSPARENCY IN PRICING By Daniela Milosheska of Bastet Noir

TRANSPARENCY IN FASHION in partnership with GoodOnYou

42 EAT. DRINK. SHOP CONSCIOUSLY - HONG KONG EDITION

HOW TO BUILD A SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE + GOOD SWAPS in partnership with GoodOnYou

INTERVIEWS BUILDING A SUSTAINABLE FASHION APP

An interview with founder SANDRA CAPPONI

AALIA MAURO Blending tech + fashion to create Verte Mode

THE NEW INFLUENCER An interview with Benita Robledo of Style Crush

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR As you know, in each issue we focus on a particular

In this issue, we’ll dive in deep with them to

theme surrounding sustainability and fashion. This

understand more about how they analyze this data

month for Issue04 we chose to focus on a topic we

and what we as consumers can do to build a more

feel is one of the most important aspects towards

sustainable wardrobe. Plus we’ll get into the nitty-

running a sustainable fashion business, which is

gritty of what all those crazy sustainability terms

TRANSPARENCY.

mean, and we’ll even give you some great swaps for some of your favorite mainstream brands that aren’t

Let’s take a step back and understand what the word

necessarily doing the best in terms of sustainability

transparency actually means. According to Merriam

(they are usually rated “not good enough”).

Webster Dictionary, the word transparent is characterized by visibility or accessibility of

The end goal for Good on You and Global Garbs is

information especially concerning business

the same. We as consumers need to have better access

practices.

to making better choices, but, we also have to hold

Did you catch that? “Especially concerning business

these larger companies accountable. We have to

practices”. This is the part that seems the most

speak up for what we believe in and we have to push

obvious when it comes to ethical production but

companies and ultimately those making the rules to

many brands do not abide by such rules. While every

place higher standards and regulations on the

single industry has been guilty of not being

industry’s worst offenders. While this magazine won’t

transparent to the end consumer, the fashion and

save the planet, it’s people, our ideas, the movement,

beauty industry (and food) are probably the most

and collective change that will ultimately move the

guilty of what’s considered greenwashing (page 40).

needle towards greater change in sustainability.

The thing is, that if fashion brands would just share all

Thanks again for reading this, being a supporter

of the information regarding what their clothing is

means the world to me.

made of, where it’s made, how the workers environment is, how much they are being paid, etc, I think that we as an industry would be able to get a better grasp as towards who is actually practicing what they preach. In fact, according to Fashion Revolution’s most recent

Lauren Tanaka - Fortune Global Garbs founder

Transparency Report, only 47% (which is actually up from previous years) share their supply chain to the public. However, only 18% of brands actually published any data about order cancellations in the past year yet most major brands collectively cancelled at least $40 billion worth of orders! Transparency is the key to understanding brands' true standards and it’s the only way we are going to move forward as an industry. That’s why when we thought of who is truly pushing the envelope in terms of urging brands to be more transparent from a consumer level, there was no question that Good on You was who we wanted to partner with for this issue. If you haven’t heard of Good on You, they are the world’s only app and rating system of the largest fashion brands in the world on sustainability standards. By analyzing hundreds of data points on key issues from fair trade to standardized systems like Global Organic Textile standards, they bring it all together for the consumer to build a more sustainable wardrobe.

COVER PHOTO BY: Washed Ashore Photographer: Lauren Miller Model: Rose Machado HMUA: Helen Grace

LIFESTYLE

the

HOME EDIT

Home is where we spend the most time (especially these days), so why not ensure your home is not only clean, but you fill it with essentials that bring a sense of calm, natural cleanliness and joy.

2 1

THE PERFECT CERAMIC VASE

The moment you pick up one of Katie Mudd's products you know you’re holding an exceptional quality hand made ceramic piece. Designer and ceramist Katie Mudd (yes, that is her real name) is based in Portland, Oregon and hand makes each piece with exceptional care so it’s ready for a lifetime of use. White Stoneware Bud Vase, $40 Buy it here!

START YOUR 'CLEAN' CLEANING ROUTINE

Everything you need to start your new all natural cleaning routine, for the best value! The complete home bundle set comes with all your cleaning essentials and suite of refillable glass bottles in your choice color. Plus use code CLEANCULT20 for 20% off your first order. www.cleancult.com

THROW ANYWHERE THROW

Their irresistibly soft Windowpane Jacquard throw is cozy, breathable and the ideal companion for all seasons and provide you the warmth and comfort you love in your sanctuary. Jaquard Check Throw $125 www.loomahome.com

START YOUR DAY RIGHT

Create a natural and sustainable morning routine. This beautiful collection is curated with the best plastic swaps to start your date off on the right foot. The Morning Routine Box, $65 www.earthlove.co

BASKET WALL ART

These beautifully intricate wall plates are designed to enhance and magnify any room. Leave the sweetgrass plate as a standalone piece or pair with other plates or bowls to transform your space. Each of these breathtaking designs was made with courage and heart by a woman in rural Rwanda. 27" Extra Large Modern Woven Wall Art Basket $260 www.accompanyus.com

THE PERFECT SOOTHING CANDLE

Seductively soothing yet complex with sweet top notes of coconut almond milk infused with subdued masculine touches of warm sandalwood, teakwood, and smoked tobacco. Elegant and buttery smooth but elevated with the herbacious fresh sage. This cult-classic scent sets the mood from morning to moonlight. Handmade & assembled in Los Angeles, CA Hand-poured Fragrance Oils and American grown soy wax Reusable glass vessel made in the US - find out how here. Cotton, lead-free wick for a clean burn

N°07 SMOKE MILK LAIT www.shoplait.com starting at $12

PRISM LUMBAR PILLOW - SPRUCE

This hand-stitched pillow is crafted from super soft organic cotton. The subtle embroidered design is classic and modern. It will add warmth and texture to any room in your home. • 100% GOTS Certified Organic Cotton • Sham crafted in Ajmer, India Prism Lumbar Pillow - Spruce, $85 www.madetrade.com

SIMPLISTIC FAIR TRADE

• DUVET A classic triangle design compliments any modern home. This soft and durable single-layer cotton duvet has internal corner ties and exterior tie closures.

100% GOTS Certified Organic Cotton • Handcrafted in Ajmer, India Triangle Duvet Cover, $350 www.madetrade.com

LIFESTYLE

leading by design HOW SOLIOS - A MINIMALIST SOLAR WATCH COMPANY IS SAVING BATTERIES AND THE RAINFOREST ONE WATCH AT A TIME. BY LAUREN TANAKA-FORTUNE

ts not every day that I come across a brand that is impressive from not only a sustainable and ethical

standpoint but a design and branding position as well. When one thinks of an eco-friendly battery powered watch, the brand SOLIOS definitely would be far on my list of what I would consider the typical ecofriendly collection. For one it’s extremely simple and modern. Prior to launching Global Garbs I worked with brands to define their image and fine tune their messaging, marketing, and product merchandising. One thing that many if not all were missing was the ability to create a design-driven product. Successful brands cannot lead with just their sustainable efforts. In order to fully capture customers' attention, your product has to be eye-catching, high quality and aspirational. This is exactly the feeling that came up for me when visiting the SOLIOS watches website and discovering their solar powered watches. To be quite honest, I’m not necessarily even a “watch girl''. Yes I’ve owned watches in the past but they have probably ended up at a thrift store or the bottom of a drawer at one point or another (don't judge me).

standout features ♻ Made from recycled waste that is truly

recyclable over and over again. (New with the Mini Solios!) Solar cell allows the watch to recharge itself and offers a 6-month energy reserve. Interchangeable “leather” straps made from silicone that is truly eco-friendly The only B-Corp certified watch brand

☀

But upon browsing the SOLIOS website, I was struck with their impeccable design elements, that led me to actually wanting one - something I do not usually feel at first glance. The design of the Mini Solar for example is made with 100% certified recycled stainless steel - the first of its kind - which means that all metal parts of the watch are made from recycled materials that can forever be recyclable. The simplistic design is what I love the most and their mission to create sustainable solar powered watches by promoting a slow fashion lifestyle and also giving back by restoring the RAINFOREST (1 watch = 1 acre restored!), is truly inspirational. While the design elements are what initially drew me to the product, it's their ethos and commitment towards sustainability that ultimately makes me a supporter. Creating a brand that can stand on its own without the sustainability standards is tough, but having BOTH? Well, that's the ultimate goal which in my opinion they have achieved. From every material and design element broken down into the finer details, it’s brands like SOLIOS that are exciting to me. They are taking something as simple as a watch, re-designing it to not only make it sustainable, but something you can wear forever - the true test of sustainability.

In full transparency, this is a paid review. The opinions expressed are my own.

LIFESTYLE

summer to fall

transitional pieces to wear year round

THE MINIMALIST WATCH

The SOLIOS solar watch combines aesthetic, green technology and durable materials. In addition to promoting slow fashion with style, you'll never have to change your battery with the solar cell’s ability to recharge itself and offers a 6month energy reserve. AVAILABLE ON SOLIOSWATCHES.COM

THE CLASSIC NECKLACE This Washed Ashore necklace is timeless and true classic piece of jewelry meant to last a lifetime. Made from 100% recycled metal which is 98% fewer emissions from regular mined metals. AVAILABLE AT WASHEDASHORE.CO

THE CHUNKY HEEL HILOS is introducing a radically new way to make shoes that blends artistry with performance. By combining the traditional insole, midsole, and outsole of a shoe into a single 3Dprinted platform that embodies the performance requirements of each of these layers within a complete construction. AVAILABLE AT HILOS.CO

THE ONE OF A KIND TOTE KRNACH sources all materials from strike-offs, and fabric remnants, deriving from both textile mills as well as from fashion companies Taking these so-called "scraps" and turning them into one of a kind bags in the most sustainable way possible, by hand, and not in mass production. AVAILABLE AT KRNACH.COM

HIGH RISE WIDE LEG JEANS A nod to trendsetting style in Seoul, this high rise style is a fresh alternative to your skinnies. Sculpts through the midsection and widens out through the leg to a flattering Aline shape. Modern, timeless and versatile. AVAILABLE ON WARPWEFTWORLD.COM

THE MAXI SKIRT Wear this folklore printed maxi from summer to fall. Pair with a light-weight cropped tee during the warmer months or tights and a chunky sweater and boots for the fall. Made with 100% LENZING™ ECOVERO™, and ethically made in Bali AVAILABLE ON TAMGADESIGNS.COM

THE CLASSIC MULE Classic mule with a mic toe and a half inch leather stacked heel for a structured look. 100% hand made with zero heavy machinery. Leather is locally sourced and milled at Salt + Umber's LWG Gold rated sustainable tannery. AVAILABLE ON MADETRADE.COM

wear now or later SUMMER TO FALL JUMPSUIT Meet your next favorite all-occasion jumpsuit. Flowing flutter sleeves and an extra long, nearly floor sweeping pant leg, this jumpsuit is made for a holiday away, or every day. Exude easy elegance with this flowy jumpsuit that is perfect for slow day lounging, busy weekdays, virtual meetings, then dressed up for special moments. AVAILABLE ON MADETRADE.COM

EAT. DRINK. SHOP. Consciously Ashley Castro

LIFESTYLE

In a new series we’re featuring a curated list of conscious entrepreneurs' favorite places to eat, shop, and do life in their hometown I’m Jenn, a New Yorker living in Hong Kong and an optimist who loves to clean. I founded Sqwishful to make zero waste kitchen and home accessories that clean and leave the world cleaner.

We are a proudly small, woman of color-owned business on a mission to make the cleaning industry more sustainable, equitable, and inclusive. Our award-winning, plant-based, and plastic-free products have been featured by The Wall Street Journal and can be found in hotels, stores, and homes worldwide.

Live Zero

When I’m not busy being a sponge lady, you can find me enjoying the vibrant streets of Hong Kong, where the culturally rich and creatively diverse mix of eastmeets-west inspires me every day. To learn more about my work and our modern take on native plants like luffa and bamboo, follow Sqwishful on Instagram.

EAT |

SHOP | If you’re looking to live a more low impact lifestyle, head to Live Zero, Hong Kong’s first zero waste store where you can find everything from bulk foods and beauty to everyday, home essentials. Or check out Slowood for more consciously made products.

If you love vegan cuisine, Hong Kong offers an array of experiences from two-star, Michelin fine dining at Amber to casual, fast food-inspired Green Common. For innovative flavors that are unique to Asia, try the deep fried taro sweet potato ball at The Park By Years or modern Chinese at Miss Lee. The Park by Years

DRINK |

Tai Ping Shan Street

SHOP |

Tucked away in the steep hillside and narrow alleys of Sheung Wan is Tai Ping Shan Street, home to temples and small, independent cafes and shops. Warm up with a masala chai and keemun red date cheesecake at Teakha, rummage through film and art books at Mount Zero, or bask in the scent of dried tangerine peels and star anise at Yuan Heng Spice Company.

For a taste of Bali, sip on consciously made cocktails at Potato Head. The bar sources local, seasonal fruits and uses sustainable methods like curing and fermenting ingredients that would otherwise go to waste. And if you find yourself in Seminyak, be sure to check out sister hotel, Desa Potato Head, and its farm-to-table restaurant and zero waste bar.

Potato Head

HONG KONG EDITION

LIFESTYLE

layering style guide From necklaces to earrings, jewelry brand Washed Ashore has just the right pieces for a naturally layered look. Tarita choker ($585) Ball chain necklace ($670) with pendant clip ($85) + Bee charm ($320) Breaker lariat ($605)

THera necklace ($1250) Thick chain necklace ($2850) Zodiac double sided medallion ($830)

GET THE LOOK From shortest to longest, blend diferent chains, charms, and styles for an authentically styled look.

arrange the overlay

GET THE LOOK Mix n match different tiers and lengths for a day-to-day or go longer for that special occassion

Ama hoop ($510) Ira drop earrings ($690) Nile studs ($360)

unlimited stacks

Alana earrings ($290) Small Siren hoop ($315) Seraphina earrings ($395)

EDUCATION

he mining industry is an area of sustainable fashion that has yet to fully be exposed for what it is. Located mainly in developing countries in which many of the workers are exploited and working conditions are beyond harsh, the precious metal manufacturing process can be quite disastrous not only for the environment, but for the people as well. The most sustainable option for mining metals is not to mine at all and to use what’s called post consumer extraction. This process is not only the safest option, but it drastically reduces greenhouse gas emissions that are associated with all of the sourcing, extracting and processing of transporting raw or “virgin” materials. By essentially recycling vintage pieces, the process becomes more circular as the amount of new metals becomes obsolete. Not to mention, you can always take those metals and recycle again to create even more jewelry. The process becomes endless and something of which the clothing industry has yet to figure out. If the fine jewelry industry has got it figured out though there’s hope yet. One brand that is truly leading the way in sustainability is Washed Ashore. Not only are their pieces made at an accessible price point for fine jewelry, but their aesthetic is hands down one of the most exquisite brands on the market. Simple, understated yet designdriven, these pieces are meant to last forever and can be worn interchangeably and layered for true opulence.

Reducing cO2 in Fine Jewelry How Washed Ashore is changing the way brands source gemstones

Their commitment to sustainability and ethical manufacturing is exemplified through their refiner who is a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council. Here’s a chart of the cO2 emissions from their brand as opposed to general jewelry brands emissions.

EDUCATION

The Importance of FAIR TRADE It goes beyond just chocolate and coffee

t’s crucial to know what fair trade is and especially that it goes beyond coffee and chocolate, which not many people know about. Did you know that there’s fair trade wine? What about fair trade cotton?

With the development of the Fairtrade organization, a business can become certified if they meet the following core requirements: high standards for social, economic, and environmental processes, in addition to no child or forced labor. This means fair wages for farmers and workers and that the company follows ethical and sustainable business practices.

With fair trade, you’re supporting sustainable development and actively fighting against poverty and exploitation of workers that are often not made aware of their rights. Fair trade is also important for fighting against the power imbalances that exist between businesses and vulnerable workers in developing nations.

3. Fair trade acknowledges climate change and promotes environmental conservation. In particular to conventional cotton, it is vastly

There are 3 reasons why fair trade is so important:

genetically modified, large volumes of water are required, and they continue to use hazardous chemicals which have consequently affected people,

1. Buying fair trade has a

biodiversity, and the planet. By investing in goods made from fair trade cotton, you’re supporting social and environmental costs that are 5 times lower than

direct positive impact on the lives of farmers and workers. I started The Good Tee in 2020 after coming faceto-face with the knowledge of the high suicide rates among farmers. It was heartbreaking to learn that more than 270,000 cotton farmers alone have committed suicide since 1995. Since our inception, it’s been our mission to use only Certified Fairtrade Cotton sourced from farmers in India so that we can offer customers and clients 100% transparency and

that of non-certified GMO cotton farming. Sustainability and social responsibility should be at the core of every decision a business makes. It’s a great feeling to know that customers can confidently shop knowing they are supporting fair products and fair conditions.

confidence in knowing how their clothes were made.

2. Fair trade fuels sustainable development by helping secure the rights of workers. In the fashion industry alone, there has been way too much exploitation of farmers and garment makers.

Adila Cokar is a media-acclaimed, award-winning social entrepreneur and author of the book, Source My Garment – The Insider’s Guide to Responsible Offshore Manufacturing (2019). She has over a decade’s worth of experience in sustainable product development, offshore manufacturing processes, end-to-end management, and business strategy. She is the founder of consulting company Source My Garment, which has become a bridge between fashion brands and garment factories, empowering designers to minimize costs but still sell responsibly made products. In 2020, Adila launched her newest venture, The Good Tee, a fully transparent and Fairtrade cotton-certified basics collection. 26

$ TRANSPARENCY In Pricing

How brands are taking transparency to a whole new level

BY DANIELA MILOSHESKA

EDUCATION

n almost every small business, transparency is something that's rarely being spoken of. As small business owners we tend to leave out this part altogether while building a

brand, never really realizing the importance of it. Being honest, open, and transparent as a label makes your customers trust you and once that trust is established, loyalty follows. Inspired by the True Cost IG series started by Natalie Kay from Sustainably Chic, and in an attempt to help our customers make an informed purchase, our Bastet Noir team decided to have a cost breakdown for every piece we launch on our website. As we reveal the true cost of each item, customers can get a better understanding of what they pay for and just how much each item costs to make from start to finish. So here I'm dissecting that process by showing you the steps involved in how we get to the final retail price.

1. The price of the fabric All of the fabrics we use are deadstock, which means they are leftover scraps cast aside by big fashion labels. Usually these materials are sent to the landfills to either burn or pile up. We buy these

Let's take the Lucia Dress for example. For this model, we use 3 meters of fabric and a meter of that material cost us $12, so the overall cost for the fabric alone is $36.

2. The production price The production price is based on the complexity of the design. Once we hand over the design to our seamstresses, first what they do is work on the patterns. Once the patterns are done, the seamstress that makes them can approximately calculate how many hours it will take her to make a certain piece. From there on, we agree on the production price. Some of the women owned studios we work with form their prices according to the hours they spend on making the piece, while others prefer to work with a fixed flat rate per category. So in this instance, the production price for the Lucia dress was based on a fixed fee determined by the seamstress that made it, which was $35 per piece.

rolls of fabrics and give them a chance for a second life. After we measure a roll, we establish how many meters we have at our disposal. The price we get for the roll is then divided by the meters available to get the price per meter. The price by meter is then multiplied by how many meters it takes us to make an item.

EDUCATION 4. The packaging Every package we use to wrap up the ordered items is made of eco-friendly paper, which is handmade by the women single parents we work with. Once we know the volume of the dress, we make a special package with special dimensions to fit the dress in. We also use a personalized brand tag that is handwritten specifically for every customer. The marketing and packaging material costs us $1.18 exactly. The reason why we use this packaging and not a box like almost every other brand out there is that we want to give as much work to our community as possible and make sure the seamstresses earn extra money from making those pouches.

5. Shipping costs Everything we ship is shipped through DHL Express. The reason for this is that we want to make sure our customer gets the item ordered as quickly as possible and DHL allows us to have an item delivered almost anywhere around the world in 1-5 business days. The price we pay for their service is $30 up to 1kg, which is split halfway between our customer and us. We pay $15 and the customer pays the rest. Now, this is a bit unconventional I know, but the thing is that we don't want to only make a profit. What we want is to offer the best possible customer service to the clients that spend their money with us.

6. Forming the retail price Now the norm in the industry is to have 2 to 2.5 margin, but we usually go with 1.5 to 1.8 and the reason for it is that we do want to keep the prices as affordable as we can, so everyone is able to afford our label. I founded Bastet Noir 5 years ago with the idea to promote and sell Macedonian fashion designers outside of the borders of Macedonia. That concept failed, so two years ago I've decided to turn Bastet Noir into a fashion label that sells custom-made clothing items, selling them online which turned to be an incredible success. IWith more than 500 pieces sold last year all over the world and more than 600 online retailers carrying Bastet Noir's collections. I'm a storyteller, fashion lover, incurable dreamer, and relentless entrepreneur at heart.

Also, our aim is and has always been to support our seamstresses and give them the opportunity to earn more than the industry's monthly average of $300. As long as we are able to pay them fairly, that's all that matters. To be honest, I was a bit hesitant when we launched this. After all, being transparent also makes you vulnerable and a subject to criticism. But I have to admit that doing this was probably one of the best decisions we have ever made. Being completely honest with our customers allowed us to gain their trust, as well as their loyalty and in a world with endless possibilities, there’s no greater feeling than knowing your customers pick you.

Transparency

IN FASHION The ultimate goal for a more sustainable fashion industry starts with transparency, but it's not always so easy to spot which brands practice what they preach.

id you know that in 2020, most people made significant changes to their lifestyles to reduce their environmental impact? The pandemic drove more and more people to recognize the impacts humans have on the world, and to demand greater responsibility from businesses.

Good On You’s rating system aggregates this data into a simple 5 point score—from 1 ‘We Avoid’ this brand to 5, this brand is ‘Great’. You can find Good On You’s ratings on its app and directory, which list over 3,000 brands from all over the world. This month, we asked Good On You to give you the lowdown on

ethical and sustainable fashion so that you can look good and feel good about the clothes you wear. Consider this your go-to guide and index on all you need to know about building your eco-conscious wardrobe with confidence. Ready? Let’s go!

And for many of us, the sustainability journey starts in the wardrobe. Why? Because sadly, the fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries, impacting millions of people all around the world. So shoppers are wanting to make better fashion choices and support brands that are protecting our planet. They want to do good, look good, and feel good. And if you’re one of those people—congrats! But where to start? How do you know what’s good and what’s bad? And what do you do with that information? This is where Good On You comes in! Good On You is the world leading’s sustainability ratings platform for fashion and has rated thousands of fashion brands so you can learn how they impact the planet, people, and animals—and discover new brands that are changing the industry for the better.

HOW DOES GOOD ON YOU WORK? Good On You was founded on the idea that people have the right to know how a brand is addressing important social and environmental issues. As citizens and consumers, we also have the power to make responsible and sustainable choices. Brands need to be fully transparent about how their operations impact the issues consumers care about so they can make buy better. Good On You collects hundreds of data points per brand across more than 100 key sustainability issues, indicators, and standards systems - from Fairtrade to the Global Organic Textile Standard, they bring it all together in the one spot for shoppers.

EDUCATION WHAT EXACTLY IS ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE FASHION? Ok, but before we jump in, we need to talk about what “ethical and sustainable fashion” means exactly. In 1987, the UN defined sustainability as “development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”. Sustainable fashion means finding a balance when designing, manufacturing, and consuming clothes. It means avoiding the depletion of natural resources and the exploitation of individuals and communities. Being sustainable also means maintaining this balance well into the future by taking a long term approach to the production and consumption of clothes and accessories. It’s about ensuring the fashion industry both creates good and avoids harm to people, the planet, and animals.

Ethical and sustainable fashion are often used interchangeably. For some, ‘ethical fashion’ focuses more on the social impact of the fashion industry and what is “morally right”. Ethical fashion goes beyond your local labour laws and covers a wide range of issues such as living wages, working conditions, animal welfare, and vegan fashion. But ignoring the ethical dimensions of catastrophic environmental challenges like the impact of climate change or the destruction of freshwater sources on humans and animals wouldn’t make sense! Now you know the basics. Here’s what Good On you suggests you do next!

LEARN The first step to reducing the carbon footprint of your wardrobe is to get familiar with the nitty-gritty of sustainable fashion: from the terminology to bigger systemic issues, the world of ethical fashion is

complex, and Good On You recommends you spend some time researching the topic. Vocabulary Ethical and sustainable fashion terminology can be confusing— whether you’re a new ecofashion lover or a veteran. We’ve already talked about what sustainable and ethical fashion means, and here are a couple of other words you should add to your vocabulary: Transparency: the practice of openly sharing information about how, where, and by whom a product was made. Being transparent means publishing all information about every action involved in the production process, from start to finish, from the fields to the store shelves. Consumers have the right to make the best purchase decisions for themselves, for the planet, and for its inhabitants. Transparency allows shoppers to make these better decisions by providing all the key information.

Brittany: “Kestrel’s great at everything I wish I was good at!”

It also helps hold brands accountable—by knowing exactly what companies are doing or what targets they have set for themselves, it is easier to keep track and demand more where they fall short. Traceability: for a company, it means knowing its supply chains from start to finish, and being able to trace back each component of a product, from the raw material to the clothes tag and everything in between. Statistics Take time to dive deeper into some of the facts and statistics that lay behind the fast fashion industry. For example, did you know that “93% of brands surveyed by the Fashion Checker aren’t paying garment workers a living wage” (Fashion Checker, 2020)? Fast fashion production facilities are often located in countries that are referred to as emerging or developing markets. Fast fashion retailers employ thousands of people from developing nations as a cheap workforce. Not only do these people have to work exhausting hours, but the payment they receive is far from fair.

HISTORY AND APPROACHES TO FASHION If you’re interested in this article, you might already be aware of fast fashion’s dark side, but it’s worth exploring how fast fashion came to be—and how we can help change the fashion industry for the better. Fast fashion is usually defined as a model of mass-producing cheaply made, “of-the-moment” items that are sold at a lower price point. It’s usually cheap, trendy clothing, produced at breakneck speed to meet consumer demand, so shoppers can snap them up while they are still “hot”, and then, sadly, discard them after a few wears.

It plays into the idea that outfit repeating is a fashion faux pas, and that if you want to stay “in fashion”, you have to have the latest looks as they happen. It forms a key part of the toxic system of overproduction and consumption that has made fashion one of the largest polluters in the world. If you’re ready to ditch fast fashion, here are different approaches you should have a look at: Slow fashion: Slow fashion is an awareness and approach to fashion that considers the processes and resources required to make clothing. It advocates for buying betterquality garments that will last longer and valuing fair treatment of people, animals, and the planet. Vegan fashion: Even if you don’t call yourself vegan in everyday life, you may still be tempted by vegan or cruelty-free fashion. Why? Because intriguingly, it seems to win hands down over conventional fashion, in terms of several human, environmental, and of course, animal welfare impacts! Circular fashion: Circular fashion is about designing waste and pollution out of our clothes, and ensuring they help regenerate natural systems at the end of their (long) lives. It is based partly on William McDonough and Michael Braungart’s Cradle to Cradle design philosophy. Circular Fashion moves away from the traditional linear take-make-dispose business model.

amounts of resources as they are transformed from “animal, vegetable, or mineral” into the clothes, shoes, and accessories we wear. And when you’re just starting to dip your toes into sustainable fashion, it can be overwhelming trying to figure out which ones are up to scratch ethically and worth investing in! Good On You agrees there is no established hierarchy of sustainable materials in the fashion industry, and very limited comparable data. Every single material on the market today has some sort of trade off and impact on the planet and a mixture of ecofriendly materials is needed going forward. Good On You believes that you are the final decision maker when choosing materials for yourself. Figure out what is most important to you and let information guide your process: are you looking for plant-based fabrics, like cotton or linen, or maybe you’re interested in learning more about animalderived and synthetic materials? Start by checking the labels on your clothes to understand what you currently have in your wardrobe and how that makes you feel. Good On You’s ultimate guide to clothing materials is a great resource to help you decipher the labels!

MATERIALS Do you know what the clothes you are wearing are made of? The sad truth is that despite fabrics being one of humanity’s oldest technologies, most of them consume enormous

YOUR QUESTIONS Answered

After 5 years of being live, the Good On You team has received thousands of questions. Here are some of the most popular ones:

How can you tell if a brand is greenwashing? ‘Greenwashing’ is a marketing tactic used to portray an organization’s products, activities, or policies as environmentally friendly when they’re anything but. Here are some of the telltale signs: Impressive-sounding initiatives to reduce carbon emissions at head office ‘Eco-friendly packaging’ and not much else ‘Energy efficiency’ that is just the law (like using LED and energy-efficient lighting) Focussing on future targets rather than actual achievements. Brands are more or less free to set targets for their environmental impact that sound promising, but whether they achieve them or are even on track is anyone’s guess. There are some robust exceptions like the sciencebased climate targets which are the gold standard. Payment of a minimum or legally required wage. This is very different from a ‘living wage‘—the true wage a garment worker needs to feed themselves and their families, pay rent, and cover healthcare, transportation, and education. The majority of garment workers in Bangladesh, for example, earn little more than the locally mandated minimum wage which is far below what is considered a living wage. ‘Sustainable ranges’ from large companies that make up a tiny proportion of their overall offering. Fast fashion can’t become ethical from one corner of a massive store! If it seems too good to be true, it probably is.

Is ethical clothing really expensive? For a lot of people, one look at the price tag on an item of ethical clothing is enough to turn you off for good, but Good On You is here to tell you that it shouldn’t.

Is locally made better? We’ve all seen that little white label that sits tucked away on the inside of our clothing: ‘Made in the US’, ‘Made in Turkey’, ‘Made in Bangladesh’. But what do those labels really mean? The issue is more complex than it seems.

Clothing prices used to be much higher, and the production of more sustainable fashion actually harkens back to our roots. New clothing more than a few times a year was a rarity quite recently in history, and in just the last twenty years the price of clothing has plummeted to the pitiful prices we see today. There is so much more that goes into a price tag than the cost of the fabric. There’s also the cost of paying a living wage, and taking care of our Earth. “Cost per wear” is a rule adopted by many interested in giving their wardrobe an ethical overhaul, or with a particular budget in mind. It takes into account how many uses (or “wears”) you can get per item of clothing, and the more wears, the better the investment. Our mindset as consumers needs to shift away from the culture of instant gratification and materialism that often goes handin-hand with exploitation. The unrealistic and unsustainable price points that surround us have warped our expectations, and something’s gotta give.

"..in just the last twenty years the price of clothing has plummeted to the pitiful prices we see today."

When something is bought locally, it seems like it would be better for the environment, since we are more likely to be able to find out if the brand is harming, for example, our local water supply. But don’t forget that an item of clothing has many stages of production. From the origins of the raw materials, to the transformation of that raw material into the fabric we see as the basis of our clothes. It’s not as simple as sewing the fabric into a funky new pair of pants! There are many factors we need to consider. Although it seems like more developed countries could easily avoid human rights violations and exploitation, in fact, locally made does not always mean better working conditions for the workers in the final stage of production. In Leicester, UK, it was estimated that 75% to 90% of garment industry workers were being paid an average wage of about £3 per hour in 2013. Lastly, we can’t forget about the beautiful animals we share the planet with, and how they fare in this whole debate. Animal welfare in the fashion industry is a big problem in countries all around the world. Whether buying something from our own country or elsewhere, it is dependent on the local animal welfare legislation.

"locally made does not always mean better working conditions for the workers in the final stage of production.

HOW TO

BUILD A SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE Now that you know a bit more about sustainable and ethical fashion, it’s time to get down to business!

CHECK HOW YOUR FAVORITE FASHION BRANDS RATE Good On You gives you the power to make better fashion choices and help you find sustainable brands that match your values and style. Discover Good On You’s Directory or download the app to check how your favorite brands are doing when it comes to their impact on the planet, people, and animals.

SIMPLIFY YOUR WARDROBE How often do you look at your wardrobe and feel overwhelmed by the decision of what to wear while simultaneously feeling like you don’t have enough clothes? Luckily, there is a simple solution! The time has come to embrace a new approach to your wardrobe—it’s time to declutter. Plus, decluttering your life is said to have a number of psychological benefits. And minimizing what’s in your wardrobe can save precious time in our fast-paced lives.

Resources to keep learning Documentaries: The True Cost Unravel The Ugly Truth of Fast Fashion Minimalism Books: To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out the World? – Lucy Siegle Wardrobe Crisis – Clare Press Loved Clothes Last – Orsola de Castro Stitched Up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion – Tansy E. Hoskins Podcasts: Conscious Chatter Wardrobe Crisis Sustainably Influenced Ethical Fashion Initiative’s Ethical Fashion Podcast Online courses: Fashion’s Future and the Sustainable Development Goals by Fashion Revolution Fashion Revolution: Who Made My Clothes? by Fashion Revolution 1. Innovation: the Fashion Industry by the University of Leeds

HERE’S HOW YOU CAN SIMPLIFY YOUR WARDROBE: The big cull: separate your things into categories so you can see how many pieces you have in each one. You can then identify what you can cut down on. Keep the ones you know you will wear by asking yourself “Have I worn this in the past 12 months?” If the answer is no, it goes in the donation or sells pile. If the answer is yes, limit these items to the ones you wear the most. If you see holes or strong signs of wear and tear, you have a few options. You could cut it up and use it as a rag around the house, upcycle it into something else like a produce bag, or donate it to charities or local organizations who recycle or have use for damaged clothing and fabric scraps. And if it’s made from 100% biodegradable material, you could even pop it in your compost or use it as bedding in your worm farm! Rotate seasonal clothing: putting your winter jackets, scarves, and beanies away during the summer can clear up more space, and means you will know what you have when each season rolls around. Donate, sell, or swap your unwanted clothing: once you have sorted, categorized, tossed, and identified what you are keeping, you can either sell the clothes you don’t want to keep, donate them to a local charity store, or op-shop, or swap them with friends. Tidy your wardrobe and become less sentimental: maintain an organized space, group things together into neat piles. See this new approach as a chance to break away from the sentimentality of your clothing. Keep those few pieces you love wearing, but resist the urge to replace the ones you’ve passed on.

GOOD SWAPS

Madewell

KOTN

Madewell (Not Good Enough) Despite making small efforts, Madewell doesn't appear to be made very well at all—at least not for workers, the planet, and animals! To increase its score, it would need to make some serious upgrades to its environmental policies, ensure payment of a living wage throughout its supply chain, and ditch the cruel animalbased fabrics.

Kotn (Good) Certified B Corp Kotn is based in Canada and works with local NGOs on the ground at the Nile Delta to provide every child in their farming communities with quality education, and to help close the gap of low literacy rates amongst communities. With every purchase, not only will you adorn a beautifully made shirt, but also help fund school infrastructure, materials, and salaries for teachers. Find Kotn in sizes XS-2XL.

Shein

SHEIN (We Avoid) SHEIN receives Good On You’s lowest possible score of ‘We Avoid’ overall. The brand has a lot of work to do across all three areas and needs to make some serious improvements if it hopes to receive a higher score. Ethical brands with hundreds of products under $50 may not be realistic—and nor should they be, if we talk about the true cost of fashion—but there are a few options out there for those on a budget.

CHNGE (Great) CHNGE is a US-based affordable sustainable fashion brand using 100% organic material, built to last a lifetime while making a statement. Find CHNGE’s inclusive clothes in sizes 2XS-4XL.

CHNGE

Aritzia

WHIMSY + ROW

Aritzia (Not Good Enough) Good On You rated Aritzia ‘Not Good Enough’ overall. For its clothes to be truly beautiful, inside and out, Aritzia needs to improve its impact on the planet by actively reducing its carbon emissions throughout its supply chain, but also make sure its workers are treated fairly and paid a living wage.

Whimsy+Row (Good) Whimsy + Row is an ecoconscious lifestyle brand born out of a love for quality goods and sustainable practices. Since 2014, its mission has been to provide ease and elegance for the modern, sustainable woman. By limiting each garment to short runs, Whimsy + Row utilises deadstock fabric, reduces packaging waste, and takes care of precious water resources. Find most products in XS-XL.

ZARA

Reformation

Zara (Not Good Enough) Zara gets a rating of ‘Not Good Enough’ from Good On You. It has introduced some measures to make its business more sustainable, such as the Closing the Loop program, and publishes a detailed list of suppliers. However, we believe the business model that Zara adopts can never be truly sustainable. The promotion of such rapid consumption is inherently harmful to both people and the planet.

Reformation (Good) LA-based Reformation creates killer clothes that don’t kill the environment. The brand also ensures that a large proportion of its suppliers pay a living wage. Go Reformation! Find most items in sizes XS-3XL

H&M

Seek Collective

H&M (It’s A Start) H&M is one of the main fast fashion giants and has long been the target of widespread concern about its impact on the environment and the workers who make its clothes. While H&M has set science-based targets for its greenhouse gas emissions and made a little progress for the environment and the animals, the brand is still falling short on many fronts. Long story short, H&M gets an ‘It’s A Start’ rating from Good On You, as it still operates under an unsustainable, fast fashion business model—and no ‘conscious’ collection can change that. And despite promises to the contrary, the brand still needs to ensure payment of a living wage across its entire supply chain. Seek Collective (Good) Seek Collective is a US brand of thoughtfully made items with a dedication to transparency, authenticity, craft, and sustainability. Seek is focused on establishing connections between art, product, consumers, process, and makers. Its items are made in India through partnerships with like-minded communities and people. Find most products in XS-L.

Old Navy

Outer Known

Old Navy (It’s A Start) Old Navy is rated ‘It’s A Start’. In order to get a better rating, the brand needs to improve its environmental policies by tracking its progress towards reducing greenhouse gas emissions, paying a living wage, and protecting its workers from the impacts of COVID-19. The American brand should also use less animal-based materials, especially leather and exotic animal hair.

Outerknown (Good) Founded by surf champion Kelly Slater, Outerknown is a sustainable brand that aims to blend style and function with the protection of natural resources. The brand is Bluesign certified and has partnered with the Fair Labour Association. Find the range in sizes XS-2XL.

Aerie

Miakoda

Miakoda (Great) If you’re all about that organic plant-based lifestyle, then you’ll most certainly vibe with Miakoda and its organic, ultra-cosy active and loungewear. Supportive of different shapes and sizes from XS-4XL, these ethical and sustainable pieces include stripped-back colours and designs that are all about comfort. Everything is manufactured in an ethical factory in NYC, and all packing materials are ecofriendly. Neat!

Aerie

Girlfriend Collective

Lululemon (Not Good Enough) Good On You gave Lululemon an overall rating of ‘Not Good Enough’. When it comes to labor, there is some level of transparency in the supply chain, but the brand still falls short. If the brand’s employees aren’t being paid a living wage, it’s simply not good enough to be considered truly ethical conduct. On the environment and animal front, Good On You would like to see less talk and more action!

Girlfriend Collective (Great) Girlfriend Collective creates minimal, luxury women’s activewear made with fair labor, certified by the Social Accountability Standard International SA8000. The brand uses recycled PET plastic as well as low-impact non-toxic dyes and is fully Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified. Inclusively sized Girlfriend Collective offers products from 2XS-6XL.

INTERVIEWS

BLENDING FASHION+ TECH From the startup tech world to fashion, how AALIA MAURO shares her love for the environment through her latest platform Verte Mode

INTERVIEWS

TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF, THE BUSINESS AND YOUR LIFE TODAY. DID YOU HAVE YOUR “AH-HA” MOMENT WHEN IT COMES TO SUSTAINABILITY? I’ve always been passionate about businesses and set up my first tech company whilst at university with some of my peers. It was so exciting creating and setting up something new. However, after four years, I moved on from this startup and began to dabble in the fashion world. I had worked in the fashion industry since I was 13 when a model agency scouted me. However, moving into the creative side of the industry and working as an art consultant, digital creator, and finally, as a creative director for luxury brands was a completely different experience. I’ve always been passionate about the environment and working and living sustainably. The way I was raised and how our family lived our daily life is really the foundation of my lifestyle choices today. When I was younger, most of our clothes either came from local artisans and were repaired regularly. To collect food from the garden and visit local farmers’ markets was just how we shopped. Now that I have my own child, I think back often to how my parents raised me. The ideas they instilled in me years ago are now called zero-waste living, slow fashion and the circular economy. But really, they were raising me to love the environment around me - and that is what I want for my child. I think this was my real “ah-ha” moment - realising that living sustainability was not enough and that I wanted to share my knowledge and passions with a broader audience, to work together to make a better future for our children.

YOU HAVE SO MANY ASPECTS OF YOUR BUSINESS! CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT VERTE MODE, VERTE MAG, AND VERTE VIBE? WHAT’S THE BACKSTORY BEHIND EACH OF THESE PLATFORMS? Verte Mode came about as I looked to blend my passions for the environment, fashion and tech! They might seem like a strange set of skills to put together, but I will be able to build Verte Mode into an authentic market by drawing on each of these ideas. At Verte Mode, we will only work with partners we have carefully vetted to ensure that they follow sustainable and ethical practices throughout their operations. At the same time, as carefully hand-selecting these partners, I want to make Verte Mode inclusive and accessible to everyone.

My hope is that Verte Mode is not just a platform where we can shop consciously, but where we can also promote and support those brands that we see doing amazing things for the environment. This is where Verte Mag helps to build this community of like-minded enthusiasts. Then on Verte Vibe, my podcast, I can dive deeper with some truly inspirational sustainability experts. We’ve explored so many fascinating concepts. While we always start discussing sustainability, we’ve ended up talking about social justice, climate science, feminism, racial equality, and so many more important topics.

WHAT DO YOU FIND MOST INSPIRING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY? I think it is inspiring that anyone can do it. It doesn’t matter who you are, where you live, what your job is.

I might have these fantastic platforms where I can talk to an audience of followers, but if I didn’t have that, I’d still be living consciously and making the same choices. People often think living sustainably can be expensive or having a beautiful Instagram account to prove it. But the reality is that it is about making small changes. By questioning our choices: “do I really need this new thing, or do I already have something similar?” This idea of conscious consumerism is fascinating to me. We live in a world where we are constantly told that we need new things to be happy, but in fact, research has shown that getting that ‘new thing’ does not ultimately lead to happiness. Instead, it just makes us want more “stuff”! What makes us happy is making social connections with our communities, showing kindness to others. This is why I’m so keen to keep building this community around Verte Mode

."PEOPLE

OFTEN THINK LIVING SUSTAINABLY CAN BE EXPENSIVE OR HAVING A BEAUTIFUL INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT TO PROVE IT. BUT THE REALITY IS THAT IT IS ABOUT MAKING SMALL CHANGES. BY QUESTIONING OUR CHOICES: “DO I REALLY NEED THIS NEW THING, OR DO I ALREADY HAVE SOMETHING SIMILAR?” TO DATE, WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT WHEN IT COMES TO EITHER BUILDING YOUR BRAND OR SOMETHING IN LIFE YOU HAVE ACCOMPLISHED?

It always makes me stop and think when someone asks me what I am most proud of because it often changes from day to day. Right now, I'm proud of living a lifestyle that my child can be proud of. I'm proud of finding a way to work within one of the most wasteful industries [fashion] to promote those people and brands doing good work. And I feel a real sense of accomplishment whenever I get a message from a new follower or see a new review of Verte Vibe. At the moment, I'm so excited to see how many people have pre-registered for the Verte Mode platform. It makes me proud to know that I'm part of a community of people looking to make positive changes for the planet.

WHAT’S THE ONE THING YOU FEEL THAT WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE?

INTERVIEWS My focus is fashion, and it is where I think a lot of people can make changes in their lifestyles. It’s not just about buying from sustainable brands but rethinking how or why you want something new. The idea behind sustainable fashion is that we reuse the clothes that are already in existence rather than creating more. So before heading to the shop or online, think about things like: Swapping or trading clothes with friends Second-hand stores and online platforms Repairing or re-fashioning tired pieces Looking after what you already own by washing things less often and at lower temperatures make a difference to your clothes’ life span.

However, I recently learnt that one of the biggest things you can do to reduce your impact on the climate is to look at who provides your financial services. So what I mean is who is your day-to-day bank. And then also who is providing your pension it might be a personal or a workplace pension. Sadly, talking about pensions seems “boring” or “unsexy” to people. But in the UK alone, there is almost £2.6 trillion invested in UK pensions, and a lot of that is invested in fossil fuels, tobacco, exploitation, and arms.

We think of pensions as something distant. But it is money we own, and the power lies with us to make sure that we invest it wisely in clean services and not oil production. If we all stood up and insisted that our local councils, governments, and workplaces invested our money cleanly, the positive impact on the climate would be incredible.

But making sure that your bank or pension is invested in clean energies, reforestation, or healthcare, for example, is one of the most powerful things we can do to reduce our carbon emissions. In fact, it is 21 times more impactful than choosing to follow a plant-based diet, live zero-waste, or using an electric car or public transport. Isn’t that incredible?

Right now, I’d love everyone to head over to Verte Mode and sign up for early access to become a VM member. Early sign-ups are going to have exclusive access to limited editions, special offers and more. Plus, Verte Mode is planting a tree for every sign up we get - so you are also doing some good for the planet!

ANYTHING ELSE YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE? HOW CAN WE SUPPORT YOU?

Aalia Mauro Location: Southern California @aaliamauro @vertemode @vertemag www.vertemode.com

THE New

INFLUENCER

In a reoccurring section called "the new influencer" we highlight different content creators + founders to learn how they got started in the sustainable space. Meet Benita, wife, mom (of soon to be two), and former actress turned sustainable entrepreneur for startup Style Crush.

INTERVIEWS

BENITA ROBLEDO @benita_robledo www.stylecrush.co

TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. WHO IS BENITA AND WHAT MAKES HER WHO SHE IS TODAY?

Sustainability was a huge part of my upbringing too. Although my family never would’ve thought to call it that. We recycled, we planted trees, we repurposed, we repaired. Like most people of color we did sustainability before it was cool. We did it out of respect for people and things. Whether you could afford to throw things away or not didn’t matter. It was disrespectful to the maker and even to the thing itself to not use it for as long as possible. While I’ve had lots of other powerful experiences, I think these two things have been the driving forces in my life.

WE KNOW YOU STARTED OUT AS AN ACTRESS BUT WHEN DID YOU HAVE YOUR “AH-HA” MOMENT THAT YOU WANTED TO STEP AWAY FROM ACTING AND FOCUS ON SUSTAINABILITY. 59

I don’t know that I’ve EVER had an ah-ha moment. I usually just follow my gut bit by bit doing what feels right as it pops up. Then one day I realize I’m already half way down a new path. It’s very confusing, because most people realize it before I do. I did acting and sustainability side by side for several years, but slowly, I realized acting just wasn’t enough for me anymore. I remember sitting on set and being bored out of my mind, while only the day before I’d been giddy reading the latest reports on the UN Climate Change Conference. I thought to myself, wait why am I working so hard at this job that leaves me bored? That was a big clue right there.

HOW HAS BECOMING A MOTHER CHANGED THE WAY YOU LOOK AT SUSTAINABILITY. I give myself a lot more grace. Before I’d beat myself up for weeks if I forgot my reusable grocery bag or didn’t compost. Now I understand that all things ebb and flow, including my ability to be sustainable. I’ve also come to understand why people don’t practice sustainability all the time. Working a full time job (or jobs) with kids is hard enough. That’s why I focus much more on the 100 companies that contribute 71% of global emissions. Yes, we should all do what we can for the environment, but in order to create the massive shift we need to halt the climate crises we have to take on the big guys.

Photographed by Emma Low

I grew up steeped in three cultures. I lived in South Texas, spent the holidays and summers in Colombia, and traveled extensively through Mexico. I grew up as American, but was also aware that “America” was more than just the United States. This made me realize early on that there are lots of different ways to be in the world. It made me curious about everything! I was always encouraged to question things, to explore, to find answers for myself. This curiosity has fueled everything I do.

INTERVIEWS Of course I do still love practicing sustainability at home, and I love sharing it with my daughter. I’ve found that my experience reusing things really comes in handy as a mom. I can look at an old jar and turn it into a toy I know she’ll play with for hours. I don’t feel the need to run out and buy stuff for her. And because I’ve held off, I see how happy she is with random stuff around the house and I give her more of that. For the last 6 months her favorite bath “toy” is an old plastic pickle jar. We even bought her some actual bath toys recently, but she still goes back to the jar. As a parent we’re constantly bombarded with ads about needing to buy our kids so much stuff. And they love to lay on the guilt that if you don’t your child is somehow going to suffer. It’s hard as a parent to shrug off those messages and give your kid a simple childhood. I want to share with parents that not only is it ok to be eco-friendly and minimalistic, it also has lots of advantages for your child. My biggest guide for this type of parenting is my daughter. She’s much happier with a bucket of dirt and a cup than with some flashing musical toy. We’ve been given those toys and tried them, and her interest doesn’t last. But give her some rocks? She’ll happily play for 20 minutes.

Her fascination with nature also keeps me grounded as to why I work in sustainability in the first place.. When you sit with a baby giggling with joy over a stick you can’t help but fall in love with nature all over again.

WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT WHEN IT COMES TO EITHER BUILDING YOUR BRAND OR SOMETHING IN LIFE YOU HAVE ACCOMPLISHED?

"I GIVE MYSELF A LOT MORE GRACE. BEFORE I’D BEAT MYSELF UP FOR WEEKS IF I FORGOT MY REUSABLE GROCERY BAG OR DIDN’T COMPOST. NOW I UNDERSTAND THAT ALL THINGS EBB AND FLOW, INCLUDING MY ABILITY TO BE SUSTAINABLE."

The thing I’m most proud of is that I’ve created a life that fills me up without burning me out. I let go of the need to hustle constantly or have some sort of outside validation. I love my work, but it no longer defines me. I’m also a parent, an artist, and a woman who loves naps. I’m privileged enough to have this option at all, but it’s also taken a lot of internal work to unhook my self worth from my productivity. I’m really proud that I can now enjoy all of my day, even the un-flashy bits.

WHAT DO YOU FIND MOST INSPIRING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY? The inherent wisdom in nature and how indigenous peoples have understood it and worked within its systems for centuries. It’s just so cool! The way things so seamlessly co-exist is beautiful to me. Trees talk to each other. Mycelium is the largest organism on Earth. Species are naturally distributed to keep populations in check. Honestly, what’s not inspiring?

WHAT’S THE ONE THING YOU FEEL THAT WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE? Being sustainable isn’t complicated, just use what you have for as long as you can. When you do have to buy something, try to buy it second hand. If all that fails, purchase the highest quality you can afford so you can use it for years.

"BEING SUSTAINABLE ISN’T COMPLICATED, JUST USE WHAT YOU HAVE FOR AS LONG AS YOU CAN. WHEN YOU DO HAVE TO BUY SOMETHING, TRY TO BUY IT SECOND HAND. IF ALL THAT FAILS, PURCHASE THE HIGHEST QUALITY YOU CAN AFFORD SO YOU CAN USE IT FOR YEARS. "

TELL US MORE ABOUT STYLE CRUSH, WE CAN’T WAIT FOR IT TO LAUNCH! HOW DID THE IDEA COME ABOUT? I’m so thrilled to be a part of the formation of Style Crush. Style Crush is an emerging resale platform unlike anything else out there. The concept is the brainchild of Jennifer Mielke, and she brought on an incredible group of diverse women to form its first steering committee and board. Sabra Johnson (@mystyleismybrand), Maggie Greene (@greenstylemags), Zahra Biabani (@soulfulseeds), Jennifer Mielke (@2ndhandstyleccrush) and myself have spent the last few months fleshing out how we can create a resale platform that makes second hand shopping easy, inclusive, and generates wealth for the community instead of venture capitalists. A lot of people avoid shopping second hand because the thought of digging through endless amounts of clothes is overwhelming.

And then trying to find it in your size and budget? Forget it. Might as well just buy it new and save yourself the time and headache. As a busy parent I totally get it. But at Style Crush we want to make shopping second hand just as easy as buying new. That’s why our tech sorts clothes into hyper relevant mini-collections just for you. And our business model is just as revolutionary. Style Crush is the first member-owned, cooperative marketplace in the online resale space. We believe profits should flow back to the people who drive its success. Honestly, I don’t know if I’m more excited about our tech or our corporate structure.

WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST WIN OR CHALLENGE? Our biggest challenge so far is getting creative with how to raise funds without having to resort to big investors.

We have some really exciting initiatives coming up for individuals who want to get involved early (and get some great member benefits), so definitely stay tuned. You can join our beta community to keep up with all things Style Crush at www.stylecrush.co.

HOW HAS BUILDING THE BUSINESS DIFFERED FROM BUILDING A PERSONAL BRAND? ANY ADVICE FOR NEW ENTREPRENEURS? For anyone building their own brand or business I’d say take a deep breath and go slow. I’ve seen so many people burn out (including myself) because they think they have to do it all right now. That’s not how real success is built. It’s slow and plodding. It’s the day in and day out commitment to your business. It’s unsexy advice, but it’s the one I’ve seen work time and time again. There’s a saying in Hollywood that it takes 10 years to make an overnight success and I think that’s just as true in every other industry.

INTERVIEWS shaking many of us to the core. It still shocks me today to think people lost their lives making clothes in unsafe workplaces. Not to mention the huge amounts of waste that fashion is notorious for. A little while after that incident I had the fortune of meeting my co-founder Gordon Renouf, a consumer expert who shared a passion for empowering conscious choices and had built the foundations of Good On You in Australia. We joined forces in 2015 to take Good On You to the world. Our big goal was to help millions of shoppers know the impact of brands and buy better with easy-to-use ratings. And with their power, change the face of fashion to be more sustainable and fair.

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY LOOK LIKE FOR YOU?

Building an Ethical Fashion Ratings App A behind-the-scenes look at how Sandra Capponi of Good on You is helping consumers wear the change they want to see. HOW DID THE IDEA FOR GOOD ON YOU COME ABOUT? For a long time, I was working in business and thinking about the huge impacts it has on society. I’ve always loved fashion, but I kept hearing stories about what was going on behind the scenes of the major labels and became 65

more uncomfortable buying clothes without knowing where they came from. I realised I wasn’t the only one that cared, and that there was a real opportunity to use all of our buying power to make the industry more accountable. And then Rana Plaza happened, a disaster killing over 1000 garment factory workers and

Every day is different at Good On You, which I really thrive on. We’re still in startup mode, so there’s always new ideas that we’re exploring, different people and partners that we are talking to and new challenges that are being thrown our way. These days I’m often working in my home office in Melbourne, talking on Zoom to whoever is keen to listen, learn, share ideas and collaborate. Just today I caught up with our investors in London on business strategy, I discussed a partnership with a retailer in Milan to use our ratings on their e-stores, and worked with our web designers in Sydney on a new sustainability tool we’re building for brands. I also work really closely with Gordon and our incredible team of passionate people that really make Good On You. We’re based in all corners of the world but thanks to tech I have the privilege of connecting daily with my team, essentially solving problems and trying to have an impact. It’s so rewarding as it feels like we’re truly shifting something with every decision and every move that we make.

INTERVIEWS YOU ARE BASED IN AUSTRALIA. HOW DOES THE TYPICAL AUSTRALIAN FEEL ABOUT SUSTAINABLE FASHION? I can’t speak for all Australians but I know there’s a lot of evidence pointing to the fact that today most of us want to shop more sustainably, we just don’t always know where to start. The same can be said for many people in the US. And while this movement towards more conscious consumption has been building for a few years now, all over the world, it’s really been heightened since the pandemic, as more and more people want to get behind local brands doing good. We see that every day at Good On You with thousands of Aussies and Americans using our platform to search for better brands in their own backyards. There’s lots of great Australian labels emerging in response to this, too. But, unfortunately, government action and regulation on these issues is lagging behind many other parts of the world, especially Europe, which I think holds people here, and the whole industry, back.

meaningful steps to protect people, the planet and animals.

WHAT’S BEEN THE BIGGEST EYE OPENING EXPERIENCE ABOUT BUILDING THIS APP AND PLATFORM? Probably one of the biggest lessons is that sustainability issues in fashion are really complex, and they’re constantly evolving. The facts can be overwhelming - from how fashion is a major contributor to climate change (producing over 10% global greenhouse gas emissions) to the unfair and unsafe conditions that have led to widespread human rights abuses.

and evolving our ratings approach to stay on top of all the emerging issues. Last year we completed a review of our brand rating system to tackle new issues we’re still learning about, like how brands responded to the COVID-19 crisis, the impact of microplastics, and diversity and inclusion.

WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST WIN AND ALSO YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE? I think one of our biggest wins comes in the form of the little messages we receive every day from people who say that Good On You has changed the way they shop.

HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT SELECTING BRANDS BEFORE RESEARCHING THEIR CRITERIA TO SEE IF THEY ARE A FIT? DO BRANDS OPENLY SHARE THIS INFORMATION WITH YOU? Good On You rates brands that people want to know about. That means researching many of the big name brands, as well as brands that are showing real leadership on sustainability issues. Our ratings are based on publicly available information only - like certifications and a brand’s own reporting on their website - because we believe people have a right to know how a brand impacts the things they care about. So we don't take any private information from brands. Instead we encourage brands to be more transparent about their practices all the way down the supply chain and take

Materials used in fashion also cause the suffering and deaths of billions of animals each year. All just so shoppers can buy more cheap, fast fashion and big brands can reap more profits. That’s why our rating system looks at over 100 sustainability issues and indicators to assess a brand’s impact on people, the planet and animals. We look at how a brand reduces resource, water and chemical use, how it traces suppliers and treats its workers all the way down the supply chain, as well as how it protects animal welfare. But we need to keep assessing

This means they’re using our ratings to switch to more sustainable brands, which gives me so much hope for the future. And now the industry is taking notice too, with major retailers like Farfetch using Good On You ratings on their own platform to help their customers make better choices. It was a big high when Emma Watson started to use Good On You as her benchmark for sustainable fashion, and became our official supporter back in 2018. Of course, it hasn’t always been an easy ride for us. Like any startup, we’ve struggled to get access to enough funds and 66

resources to develop our products as quickly as we had planned. But the momentum we have right now is undeniable and makes me super excited about the impact we can make.

ANY BRANDS YOU’D LIKE TO HIGHLIGHT AND/OR ARE YOUR FAVORITE TO WEAR?

"By choosing ethically you become the solution. Be the change you want to see."

I wear jeans almost every day and I’m a big fan of premium label Outland Denim, rated ‘Great’ who go above and beyond to protect their female workers in Cambodia and use materials that don’t cost the earth, and don’t compromise on fit and style. American brand Unspun is another denim label worth noting. They create customisable, made-to-order, pieces giving you jeans that hug in all the right places while avoiding unnecessary waste. I also love the LA label, Whimsy & Row with their gorgeous, vintage aesthetic. They make feminine, modern pieces in local factories using deadstock fabrics. Closer to home, luxury basics label A.BCH, seems to keep raising the bar on what it means to be a sustainable brand, carefully selecting all of their quality materials and designing with circularity top of mind. And for an edgier look, German brand ArmedAngels, rated ‘Great’ for their impact on people and planet has you covered from the home office to a night on the town. I also really love wearing vintage pieces from my mother’s wardrobe, especially beautifully crafted knits and coats, that I know I will cherish for a really long time.

Sandra Capponi is the co-founder of Good on You, an app that rates your favorite fashion brands based on specific criteria based on environment, animals, and labor rights.

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Global Garbs - A Sustainable Fashion Magazine

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The Importance of FAIR TRADE