Global Garbs - A Sustainable Fashion Magazine Issue 06 - The Entrepreneur Issue

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global garbs A SUSTAINABLE FASHION MAGAZINE Issue 6 | Spring 2022

THE

ENTREPRENEUR

ISSUE

CREATING AN ECOEDITORIAL

HOW TO START AN ETHICAL IMPACT BUSINESS



GLOBAL GARBS Editor-in-chief Lauren Tanaka-Fortune Editorial & Marketing Assistant Contributors & Interviews

Issue 06| SPRING 2022

Samera Hayashi

Kaitlyn Reitz Ariel Pineda Ani Suzette Wells Sarah Chuck Patrick Cupid Carolina Wong Muhammad Hatta Bin Dolmat Jema Gamer Amanda Beth Krnach Matt Stockamp Val Emanuel Anne Therese Gennari Olivia Phillips Hayley Adamski Jenny Nuccio Candice Lam Tyler Chanel

PARTNERS

ECOSLEEP REKA AFAB CLEAN CULT

SPONSORS

KRNACH WASHED ASHORE SOLIOS HILOS LOVE & PEBBLE

Cover Photo Credits

Producer/Story/Model: Candice Lam @iamcandiceLam- represented by @WilhelminaModels @NewMadisonModels @foxmodelsinternational Photographer: Ivan Liu (aka YongQi Liu) @ivanliu Creative Director: Eunice Pais @pais.agency -Founder of Pais Agency Wardrobe Stylist: Terumi Alana Murao @meru_turao - Eco- focused Key Makeup Artist: Rie Ogura @rieogura_makeup- Cruelty-Free Makeup Artist Key Hair stylist: Yu Nakata @yunkt - Represented by 87artists Props: Elvis Maynard @elvismaynard Florist: Cici Floral @cicifloralnewyork Set & Photography Assistant: Yvonne Chen @yvonnyc_


directory

Issue 06 | SPRING 2022

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EDITOR'S LETTER

LIFESTYLE 9 SUSTAINABLE OBSESSIONS

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59

TOP TRENDS IN 2022 But make it sustainable

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SUSTAINABLE STYLE CRUSHES Our favorite content creators with sustainable standards

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FEATURED EDITORIAL / INTERVIEW 4 ELEMENTS BY CANDICE LAM

INTERVIEWS 16

A NEW GLOBAL MARKETPLACE Promoting sustainable designers around the world - meet their newest designers

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WHAT IS A SUSTAINABILITY LEAD? An interview with Nisolo's own Matt Stockcamp

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A MISSION DRIVEN MODELING AGENCY An interview with the founders of Role Models

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THE 4 ELEMENTS An editorial produced by Candice Lam

THE NEW INFLUENCER WITH THRIFTS & TANGLES

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THE NEW INFLUENCER An interview with Tyler Chanel of Thrifts & Tangles


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THE NEXT SUSTAINABLE DESIGNERS TO WATCH

EDUCATION 48

INTERVIEW WITH CAROLINA WONG

HOW TO START AN ETHICAL IMPACT BUSINESS The founders of the School of Ethical Impact share their signature framework.

CONSIDERING BECOME A B-CORP?

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CONSIDERING BECOMING A B-CORP? Here's everything you need to know

INTERVIEW WITH ROLE MODELS FOUNDERS



LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

SUSTAINABLE FASHION ENTREPRENEURS

By bringing together a dream team of creatives who

TAKE BUILDING A BUSINESS TO A WHOLE

place sustainability at the center of their work,

NEW LEVEL...

Candice created some amazing images with a bigger mission to provoke conversations of the current

Starting a fashion business is tough, let alone starting

global predicament on environmental and social

a sustainable fashion business. If I’ve learned anything

issues, challenge the industry’s and consumers’

from running this blog and magazine for the past

connotation of "sustainable fashion", and to inspire

several years is that entrepreneurs who value the lives

individuals and collectives to take actions toward a

of others and the environment are the true leaders in

more sustainable lifestyle and mindset.

this industry. This sounded pretty much parallel to Global Garbs’ While starting a brand can be difficult, when you

mission and I couldn’t have been more honored to

begin to include things like ensuring that your supply

publish her incredible shoot.

chain is transparent, or making sure your factory is paying their workers a living wage (not just a

Finally, we get to dive deeper into the latest designers

minimum wage), you’re not only creating a whole

to be featured on REKA - which is a new sustainable

new level of accountability but a whole new role with

marketplace app that promotes and sells independent

responsibilities as well.

sustainable designers around the world. When I first started Global Garbs, the idea of promoting emerging

In this issue we’re exploring the roles of different

designers around the world is what first inspired me.

entrepreneurs taking it to the next level. From

Partnering with REKA is the ultimate culmination of

designers, to sustainability leads, to modeling

combining my two reasons for starting this blog in

agencies, and content creators or influencers.

the first place = global fashion + sustainability. There’s something so amazing about discovering designers in

We interviewed Matt Stockamp, the sustainability

other countries. Fashion trends and designs are so

lead over at Nisolo. Nisolo recently was awarded the

different depending on where you live which I find

top small to medium size brand in ReMake’s

so fascinating and inspiring.

Accountability Report. They are setting the example of what a fashion company should look like. Having

Fashion is something that connects us all. It’s

someone who is responsible for ensuring that all of

something that everyone participates in whether you

their business processes are aligned with their

like it or not. But ultimately it’s something that needs

sustainability values and goals is obviously just the

to be changed on a systematic level. REKA is one of

first step, but their transparency and accountability is

those leaders who is trying to change the fashion

what sets them apart from others.

landscape by creating new possibilities for designers to create with a zero waste model and bring their

“True change requires the participation of all

customers directly to them no matter where you live

stakeholders including but not limited to suppliers,

in the world. Now that’s what we call taking

garment workers, manufacturers, governments,

sustainable entrepreneurship to a whole new level.

NGOs, financial institutions, fashion brands, and you, the end consumer.” (from Nisolo) This is how it should be. Everyone needs to be held accountable, not just the end consumer but everyone involved in the entire process. I also spoke with Candice Lam who is our featured editorial story and whose image graces our cover. Candice and I connected quite some time ago before she even set out to accomplish the big project of

Lauren Tanaka - Fortune

producing and modeling in a two-part editorial

Global Garbs founder

spread inspired by the four elements of nature. 7



LIFESTYLE

FRANKIE DRESS IN RUST RIB $186

Obsessions

Made from Modal A bio-based fabric made from beech wood that uses Lenzing Modal™, one of the most sustainable fibers. AVAILABLE AT WHIMSYANDRO W.COM

AMA WOVEN MULE $180 Leather Working Group Certified leather 100% Living Wages, 0% Net Carbon

AVAILABLE AT NISOLO.COM

DKAMI JUMPSUIT$168 Original print design handprinted in Bali AVAILABLE AT BELKAZAN.COM

MARSHMALLOW TOTAL BLACK A 90s inspired oversized slipper sandal featuring a maxi double layered sole. AVAILABLE AT ALOHAS.IO

DEVA SHIRT, BLACK SILK CHIFFON -$288 In 100% naturally dyed silk chiffon, made sustainably in India

AVAILABLE AT SEEK COLLECTIVE.COM 9

OLIVIA DRESS- $180 Made from a mid-weight 100% linen fabric that delicately grazes the body's curves.

AVAILABLE AT TWODAYSOFF. COM


LIFESTYLE

TOP 2022 Trends

SUSTAINABLE FASHION TRENDS SEEN IN THE "REGULAR" ZINES

LOAFERS / When it comes to fashion trends, sustainability can oftentimes play a huge role in NOT purchasing items that could be considered too trendy.

Mules ANGIE LOAFER MULE AVAILABLE AT THEREFORMATION.COM

Here's some recent trends that caught our eye that you can still wear for years to come (and also from some of your favorite susty designers)

MARA WOVEN SLIP ON $180 AVAILABLE AT NISOLO.COM

ALOHAS CHUNKY LOAFER $138 AVAILABLE AT ALOHAS.IO

THE BEST OF

BLACK GALA BACKPACK $375 AVAILABLE AT ALLEGORIEDESIGN.COM

LUCAS SADDLE BAG $395 AVAILABLE AT FREDASALVADOR.COM

Bags

NARA BELT BAG $168 AVAILABLE AT LIVEFASHIONABLE.COM

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WIDELEG

LIFESTYLE

Pants

THE MIKEY | SHORT CIRCUIT $178

AGOLDE MID LOOSE FIT $198

Contains OCScertified organic cotton Tencel™ Lyocell, a natural raw material from responsibly produced eucalyptus trees

RISE

100% Organic Cotton Made in Turkey with imported materials AVAILABLE AT AGOLDE.COM

AVAILABLE AT BOYISH.COM LOLA TROUSERS $165 Slightest a-line pant in super soft, textured tencel Rounded back pockets and subtle front pleats. AVAILABLE AT LACAUSA.COM PINK POP LEOPARDS SHIRTDRESS $265 AVAILABLE AT FARMRIO.COM

BRIGHT

AMIRA MAXI DRESS $89 CAD 100% TENCEL™ Ethically made in Bali AVAILABLE AT TAMGADESIGNS.COM

Colors

ORGANIC COTTON TWILL WAVE LINER $ 250 AVAILABLE AT BACKBEAT.CO

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LIFESTYLE

Kaitlyn Reitz IG: @curlykaitlyn Turtleneck - thrifted Pants - @revoltstylestudio Vest - @curatorsf Shoes - @loyalfootwear Socks - @organicbasics 12


LIFESTYLE

Ani Suzette Wells IG: @simplysuzette Jeans - @soortyenterprise Demeulemeester off Heroine- @heroine Jewelry - @cadettejewelry

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LIFESTYLE 12

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LIFESTYLE

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INTERVIEWS

PATRICK CUPID, United States 16


DESIGNERS TO WATCH

This new fashion marketplace app sells and promotes sustainable brands around the world. IN PARTNERSHIP WITH A FAB WORLD BY REKA

W

hat if there was a one-stop shop where you could find the most amazing and unique designers around the world without ever leaving your home? Not to

mention all of these designers place sustainability as one of their core values. Well now, there’s an app for that. You can now discover the latest designers from countries you could only dream of visiting such as Italy or Malaysia. A Fab World by REKA is taking the sustainable fashion world by storm with technology that even a “regular” fashion designer would want to get their hands on. What’s your biggest concern when shopping online? Is it that the garment will actually fit? REKA’s technology can literally determine

whether a brand will fit your body with their AI tailoring. We all know that your size can vary, depending on the brand, and shopping online let alone in another country can be very daunting. Not only are they solving this challenge but they are doing so in a way that is promoting the kind of brands we actually want to shop from. We are excited to unveil some of REKA’s latest brands to be featured. This new group of designers all plan on using REKA’s platform to not only uplevel their brand globally, but incorporate the sustainable features and benefits to produce products in a way that not only helps their business thrive, but the community and environment as well. They are truly a collective of change-makers creating the most exclusive products for the global conscious citizen.

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INTERVIEWS Patrick Cupid is designed responsibly from start to

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A DESIGNER?

finish. In our effort to promote responsible consumption, each season is designed relative to the last, allowing a wardrobe to be built over time piece by piece. As a palette of color opens and develops, shifting from summer into fall encompassing seasonal prints, shapes, and silhouettes evolve to establish themselves in harmony with their predecessors, and can be layered or paired together, bridging several collections.

I have always been a designer. I sketched clothes at an early age and taught myself to sew at six. The rest came with curiosity and experience. My love of art and design opened the world to me. The Patrick Cupid brand is how I give back. At twenty, I started a models agency and fashion production company. In 2007 started working on the Patrick Cupid brand and was a finalist in the Gen Art styles competition. Before returning to school in 2010, I worked in interior design, and while studying, I curated art exhibitions selling works internationally. After school, I worked at Li and Fung designing for Walmart and Sam's Club. WHAT DOES BEING A RESPONSIBLE DESIGNER MEAN TO YOU? It means owning your work and taking action to protect the environment in any way I can. For small brands, that is not so simple, but I find that minor innovations in the way I develop garments make a huge difference. I love people, and I love this planet. Love requires a commitment to do good, be better, and learn from mistakes. These are the pillars of the Patrick Cupid brand ethos. I hope they are not trends. I hope sustainability practices become the new staples or inspire an evolved normality. The ideas and actions behind sustainability are not new, but they are not always practiced. As for fabric and style, yes, innovations are happening all around us. Old clothes repurposed into new garments mills recycling and developing environmentally sound textiles and procedural changes. It’s all great work that matters. I have also found suppliers for sustainable yarns for knitwear and synthetic textiles. These resources are very exciting for Patrick Cupid as it allows us to expand our product line. We will begin to see the first garments developed using these new sustainable textiles for fall 2022.

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INTERVIEWS HOW DO YOU PLAN ON INCORPORATING REKA’S FEATURES WITH YOUR DESIGN/SELLING PROCESS? WHAT EXCITES YOU ABOUT JOINING A MARKETPLACE THAT PLACES SUSTAINABILITY AS ONE OF IT'S CORE VALUES? REKA is the future, and I recognize that. People spend a great deal of time attached to their mobile devices. Working, communicating, shopping, all sorts of things. REKA is a tool that offers the Patrick Cupid brand visibility within this new way of shopping. The way we experience new products has changed, and Reka recognizes that.

One of the features we will take advantage of is the pre-order model. REKA's pre-order feature allows brands to sell products ahead of the season and has the potential to offer significant data into what will be trending and what the customer will be doing in the near future. The virtual fitting tools are genius, and I am curious to see how that will inform our fit and design process as we advance. In addition, it will allow us insight into our customer's sizing in specific regions. With this data, we can adapt and tailor our merchandise plan ahead of the seasons. Patrick Cupid is a responsible brand, and having partners who also believe in good business when it comes to labor and the environment is essential. Given REKA's position on sustainability, I am excited to join the select group of brands joining REKA.

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INTERVIEWS

CAROLINA WONG London, UK 18

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INTERVIEWS Hong Kong born, London based world citizen. I

Since I was little, I have always been fascinated with

graduated in 2011 at the Chelsea College of Art and

making and creating. As I grew older, my interest

Design specialising in Woven Textile Design.

turned into a career. I chose to study textile design

Experimentation with materials has always been

as I can create anything from scratch textiles, as

part of my world: enriched by a wealth of cultural

original and limitless as can be. Post graduation, I

heritage absorbed during her creative education

worked in various fashion brands and also worked

and experiences in four continents, I value the art

with an architect. Years later, I realised my passion

of uniting traditional crafts and creativity. Weaving

is still about making and designing, so I started my

a sustainable lifestyle, cult, and heritage into

own brand in 2017.

wearable arts is my distinguishing factor. I launched the first jewelry collection, ‘Buoyant 20’, during the first lockdown Spring 2020, since then I have been creating collections with a free spirit, creating as I go along. WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A DESIGNER?

WHAT DOES BEING A RESPONSIBLE DESIGNER MEAN TO YOU? DO YOU SEE ANY TRENDS IN SUSTAINABLE FASHION? As creator/designer, being responsible is a must in my opinion. We are the trend setter, if we don’t set the right trend in sustainability, who will? Also we need to be the leader to educate the consumer. We only use recycled and upcycled materials, we have enough waste, it’s time to stop wasting and start recycling.

HOW DO YOU PLAN ON INCORPORATING REKA/AFAB'S FEATURES WITH YOUR DESIGN/SELLING PROCESS? WHAT EXCITES YOU ABOUT JOINING A MARKETPLACE THAT PLACES SUSTAINABILITY AS ONE OF IT'S CORE VALUES? Virtual custom-made, as we hand make everything in our workshop. Zero waste initiatives, the techniques we use on making jewelry are to minimise waste plus we recycled every little bit of waste. I am interested in Reka to reach out to the South East Asia audience. I hope to spread sustainability to those markets, as sustainability has always played a big part of the brand since the beginning.

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INTERVIEWS

MUHAMMAD HATTA BIN DOLMAT Malaysia 23


INTERVIEWS I grew up in Melaka, Malaysia with a big dream of making the world a better place. I graduated from UiTM with a Bachelor Degree of Arts and Design and have been in the fashion industry and commercial fashion business for 17 years (est. in 2005). I started my journey with my signature Bridal Couture in 2005 and I started my Ready-To-Wear (RTW) Collection in 2014.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A DESIGNER? liked learning and challenging myself creatively and I don’t want to just stick to ‘what works’, I want to evolve, which includes working on both myself as an individual as well as a designer. WHAT DOES BEING A RESPONSIBLE DESIGNER MEAN TO YOU? It was 2015 when I was working on my ready-towear collection for the annual Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week. At the time, I was one of the few designers who designed my own motifs—an expensive investment back then. Not wanting to let the remaining textile (as well as the team's efforts) go to waste, this has led me to find ways to reuse my fabric offcuts. I believe that the more we upcycled our fabric, the more it became a habit. I started to wonder about the role I played in the bigger picture. I started collaborating with Kloth Cares, a fabric-recycling-movement-turned-social organisation and upon discussion, they supplied me with a unique fabric blend which consisted of 60 percent rPET (recycled polyethylene terephthalate, also known as yarn made from plastic bottles) and 40 per cent cotton, which I then used to create the sustainable HD Monogram 20/21 collection. WHAT EXCITES YOU ABOUT JOINING A MARKETPLACE THAT PLACES SUSTAINABILITY AS ONE OF IT'S CORE VALUES? REKA/AFAB's initiative is similar to mine. We are planning to go beyond our local market views and I believe that the current technology has opened up a whole new alternatives in producing 24

garments/RTW pieces in zero waste.


INTERVIEWS

JEMA GAMER The Philippines 25


INTERVIEWS WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A DESIGNER? I fell in love with arts and design at an early age. I remember watching runway shows on TV but it never crossed my mind to take Fashion Design as a course in college. Instead, I took up nursing, but upon graduation I knew that I was not really for me so I enrolled again and took up Fashion Design at SoFA Design Institute. It was here that my interest in fashion, not just in the arts, grew and developed. Upon graduation, I went on to work for various local fashion brands establishments while building my own brand “Jema Gamer” and “Modista”, which I later focused on full time. WHAT DOES BEING A RESPONSIBLE DESIGNER MEAN TO YOU? Being a responsible designer for me means having to produce elevated quality of garments for the consumers, both design-wise and constructionwise, while maintaining a high level of sustainability. I believe that we as designers should not only be responsible for our clients, but also be responsible for how we make an impact on our environment.

HOW DO YOU PLAN ON INCORPORATING REKA / AFAB'S FEATURES WITH YOUR DESIGN/SELLING PROCESS? It makes it easier for both client and designers to get accurate measurements with the use of the REKA app. It also helps to learn what my clients need while shopping inside the client's home. The app helps the designers to find our niche globally while standing with our advocacy for sustainable fashion. These are the reasons that make this app makes a great experience

WHAT EXCITES YOU ABOUT JOINING A MARKETPLACE THAT PLACES SUSTAINABILITY AS ONE OF ITS CORE VALUES? The thing that excites me the most about this opportunity is the reach the platform has. It is a globally respected marketplace that offers high quality products. As a designer, an artist, I am highly grateful to be given the chance to have my pieces, along with the advocacies that come with them, be seen internationally. 26


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INTERVIEWS

AMANDA BETH KRNACH Born in USA, living for almost 20 years near Florence, Italy 28


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INTERVIEWS WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A DESIGNER? I don’t have just one inspiration looking back, I remember always having a love for fashion, in particular making clothes. My first big purchase as a teenager was actually a sewing machine! I started with modifying garments that were already part of my wardrobe and I knew that to make this a professional career I would need to go to Fashion School. So I did, and the rest is history. WHAT DOES BEING A RESPONSIBLE DESIGNER MEAN TO YOU? Becoming a responsible designer was a fundamental step for me. After working many years in the fashion industry I realized that there was so much waste being produced, honestly I still have trouble getting my head around it. Creatively speaking and from an artisanal point of view, designing is so much more rewarding once you embrace the concept of designing and producing responsibly.

HOW DO YOU PLAN ON INCORPORATING REKA / AFAB'S FEATURES WITH YOUR DESIGN/SELLING PROCESS? I think the collaboration with REKA is a perfect match for my products. I already make one of a kind bags due to the type of textiles that I use. I hope that in the future working with REKA’s unique vision and technology, we can give the consumer a chance to mix and match the fabric swatches that I have available. In this way the final consumer will receive an even more personalized shopping experience when purchasing KRNACH bags through the REKA marketplace. WHAT EXCITES YOU ABOUT JOINING A MARKETPLACE THAT PLACES SUSTAINABILITY AS ONE OF ITS CORE VALUES? II am ecstatic regarding the fact that they encompass the aspects that I incorporate in my designs! I strive to select marketplaces that have sustainability as a core standard as it reflects my own brand’s values. With hope that consumers note that sustainable brands are making conscious decisions when choosing who can and cannot stock their items. It is not just a free for all, I for one like to research out the potential marketplace and make sure it fits my brand. 30




INTERVIEWS

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INTERVIEWS

I

f you work in the sustainable fashion industry, chances are you’ve heard of the company Nisolo.

Known for their beautifully made hand-crafted shoes and accessories, Nisolo also recently was given the highest score for small to medium sized businesses in ReMake’s Accountability Report. As a regular customer of Nisolo’s, I’ve seen the incredibly innovative and transparent values and initiatives they’ve put into place over the years so I thought it was time to reach out to their sustainability lead Matt Stockamp to learn more about what it takes to build a truly transparent company. As their Sustainability Lead, Matt’s job consists of a wide range of responsibilities from measuring their social and environmental impact, to managing all of their 3rd party certifications. If you’ve ever wondered how one can become a sustainability lead or what goes on behind the scenes keep on reading to hear more about Matt, his background and dayto-day activities.

GG: HI MATT! TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. IS THERE ANYTHING/ANYONE THAT HAS INFLUENCED YOUR SUSTAINABILITY JOURNEY? WHAT MAKES YOU, YOU? I’ve never been a very fashionable person. Ask anyone who knows me and they’ll tell you I wear the same hat most days and that I’m barefoot whenever I can be. Living in Ventura, California, I have a small closet with more wetsuits than collared shirts. I love fashion though.

MATT STOCKAMP

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If you think about it, fashion is one of the only industries that all of us as a human family get to participate in together. By getting dressed every day, we all play a part in the fashion industry.


INTERVIEWS In addition to that, surfing influences the way I live and work. In order to get good waves, surfers have to always be paying attention to what’s happening in the natural world around them. What’s the wind doing? How is the phase of the moon impacting the tide? How is a storm in that part of the world affecting the waves arriving on this particular stretch of coastline? These are things we’re daily thinking about. When you value and enjoy the nature around you, you advocate for its health. You inherently embrace sustainability in every area of your life. Lastly, there’s an excerpt from Yvon Chouinard’s book, Let My People Go Surfing, that resonates with me. “A master in the art of living draws no sharp distinction between his work and his play; his labor and his leisure; his mind and his body; his education and his recreation. He hardly knows which is which. He simply pursues his vision of excellence through whatever he is doing, and leaves others to determine whether he is working or playing. To himself, he always appears to be doing both.” My work is central to my personal life and values. I don’t “draw a distinction.”

GG: HOW DID YOU END UP AS THE SUSTAINABILITY LEAD AT NISOLO? WHAT DID YOU DO BEFORE WORKING AT NISOLO? A common trend I see in people who wind up in sustainability work is that there is no trend. Everyone’s journey tends to be unique and unconventional. My passion for leveraging the fashion industry to eradicate poverty and combat climate change grew out of firsthand

experiences working in garment factories across India through Santa Clara University’s Global Social Benefit Fellowship where I heard the stories of dozens of women who could not meet their families’ basic needs making clothes for major apparel brands. I was 21 at the time listening to young women the same age share about how they would not be able to do what they wanted to do with their lives because of insufficient wages. That broke my heart. Their testimonies inspired me to learn more about why a 2.5 Trillion dollar industry could not afford to pay its 75 Million factory workers a living wage. In my research, I found a community of brands challenging fast fashion by championing the well being of people and the planet. Nisolo was one of them, and they happened to have an open internship in their factory in Peru managing social impact measurement and programming. It was a privilege to start my career out of college on the factory floor and grow with the brand from there.

Since I began in 2015 (Nisolo was conceived in 2011), we’ve expanded our supply chain into Mexico and Kenya, and I’ve taken a broader position managing social and environmental responsibility across the business.

GG: HOW DOES ONE BECOME A SUSTAINABLE LEAD? In regards to how to get a job in sustainability, it’s thrilling to see more brands recognizing the need to incorporate it as a critical part of their operations. There are several ways to get into this line of work depending upon your interest in the social and/or environmental impact of fashion. Start by asking yourself what you’re passionate about. What problem in this industry disturbs you and how could you address it? Identify brands confronting those issues and reach out to them to get a sense of what their needs are. You’ll be surprised by their willingness to take a call. Then, develop those skills and start applying for positions. 35


A handful of colleges offer fashion sustainability programs and you can also do a lot of learning on your own. Start by reading Unraveled by Maxine Bédat and watching The True Cost. If you’re already working at a fashion brand (or a company in any industry for that matter), get curious about your company’s social and environmental impact and start advocating for better practices. I have friends who started in a completely different department now managing their company’s social and environmental practices.

After that, it’s all business, and every day looks different to be honest. The last couple years I was working on measuring the social and environmental impact of each of our products for the Sustainability Facts Label we recently launched. This required a thorough evaluation of every Nisolo shoe and accessory, which meant frequent visits and calls to our suppliers to vet their practices. You can learn more about the ins and outs of that process here.

GG: TELL US A LITTLE BIT MORE ABOUT YOUR ROLE AS NISOLO’S SUSTAINABILITY LEAD? WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY LOOK LIKE FOR YOU?

Everything we make at Nisolo has an impact on people and the planet. The essence of my role is identifying the people and natural resources behind our products, assessing how they’re impacted by what we do, and then implementing and scaling responsible practices that empower them to thrive. I start my day with a 20 minute gratitude walk or a quick surf. I think it’s important to begin work with your “why” in mind. Both of these practices allow me to zoom out and work from a place of thankfulness and recognition that I get to do this. 36

I manage the company’s 3rd party certifications through B Corp and Climate Neutral. As a part of that, I assess how we perform against B Corp’s criteria and implement practices to improve our social and environmental performance across our value chain. For Climate Neutral, I measure the company’s carbon emissions in order to reduce and offset 100% of what we emit. Even though I’m not technically a part of the marketing team, I get to play a role in telling our sustainability story by writing about our work as well. Lastly, given Nisolo’s focus on driving industry-wide change and building an ethical fashion ecosystem, I support researchers and independent organizations like Re/Make in order to accelerate social and environmental progress at scale.


NISOLO’S SUSTAINABLE JOURNEY

WHAT ARE SOME THINGS THAT SEPARATES NISOLO FROM OTHER SUSTAINABLE BRANDS?

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As someone who’s been working in ethical fashion for several years, I’ve observed three primary things that set Nisolo apart from other sustainable brands.

Our holistic approach to sustainability – Whereas most brands focus on one or two impact areas (e.g., carbon emissions, environmentally friendly packaging, etc.), we believe sustainability is an all encompassing endeavor requiring social AND environmental action. What good is a regenerative organic cotton shirt if it’s holding the woman who made it in poverty? Conversely, what good is a polyester shirt made by someone receiving a living wage if it damages the planet through its creation and disposal? At Nisolo, we believe our impact on people AND the planet must be addressed simultaneously, which is why we guarantee 100% living wages and 0% net carbon.

B Corp Certification is the most rigorous and holistic 3rd party verification in existence today. Certified B Corporations meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability. We’re also a Climate Neutral Certified brand, which means we’re measuring, reducing, and offsetting 100% of our carbon footprint. Lastly, the majority of our leathers are Leather Working Group (LWG) Certified meaning they have been evaluated and certified for best practices against criteria including material traceability, environmental management system, restricted substances, energy consumption, water usage, air and noise emissions, waste management, effluent treatment, health, safety, and emergency preparedness, chemical management, and operations management.

3

Empowering transparency – We’re advocating for an unprecedented degree of transparency through the Sustainability Facts Label, which publicly discloses all of our products’ impacts across 200 social and environmental criteria in an effort to empower consumers to drive change in the fashion industry. To my knowledge, no other brand is sharing this level of transparency at the product level.

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Third party certifications – A strong indication of whether a brand is doing what they’re claiming is obtaining and maintaining third party certifications. Nisolo has been B Corp Certified since 2017, and we’re now rated #1 among all leather goods companies and top 3 in footwear.

GG: WHAT’S THE JOURNEY BEEN LIKE THUS FAR? HOW DID IT START VS HOW IT’S GOING?

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INTERVIEWS Sustainability is at the heart of what we do. We’re in business because we want to transform the fashion industry and leverage it as a tool for social and environmental progress. Our journey has had its ups and downs like any business. Nisolo is unique from most brands because we own and operate a factory in Peru where we produce a large share of our products. Building and scaling a factory has had its challenges over the years, but the learnings have been worth it. While we started as more of a social enterprise focused on connecting a handful of artisans to the global market, we’re now a fast growing fashion brand with a thriving supply chain that’s shaking up the status quo of the industry. That said, we have a lot of areas to improve upon, and we’re looking forward to what the next several years have in store.

TELL US MORE ABOUT THE NEW INITIATIVE WITH YOUR TRANSPARENCY LABEL? Think about the phones in our hands, the clothes we wear, and the cars we drive…From megabytes to miles per gallon, we know a lot about the products we buy, but almost nothing about the hundreds of hands they touch or thousands of miles they travel before they get to us. This lack of awareness and transparency leads to detrimental social and environmental impacts in the fashion industry–less than 5% of workers receive a living wage and nearly 10% of carbon emissions are generated annually, impacting climate change more than international shipping and aviation combined. We were inspired to create a Sustainability Facts Label because, as we’ve seen with the food and beverage industries, product level transparency is imperative for driving conscious consumption and ethical production.

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After spending years surveying the industry to evaluate whether a label like this already existed for fashion, we were disappointed to find that most labels focus on one or two issues, and organizations taking a more holistic approach to labeling are still years out from getting something consumer facing. Recognizing the urgency behind climate change and poverty, we decided to leverage the research of 31 of the most well respected sustainability standards, assessments, and ratings systems to establish a Label that has Breadth (10 categories for People and Planet), Depth (200 data points), and Digestibility (simple design).

Our intention with this label and methodology is to raise the floor for transparency. Similar to the food industry, the fashion industry needs a comprehensive product label that rates products holistically. Accountability is needed to drive industry-wide change, which is why we’re calling on industry experts to urgently build this out further and hold brands, ourselves included, accountable for our impacts on People and the Planet.

After just a month, we’re already receiving encouraging feedback from brands that want to learn more and adopt this on their products. We hope to inspire a movement of brands pushing and normalizing this level of transparency so that we can collectively motivate the rest of the industry to do the same. We know we have our work cut out for us, but that’s what we’re here for.

NISOLO RECENTLY RANKED AS ONE OF THE TOP MEDIUM SIZED BRANDS IN REMAKE’S ACCOUNTABILITY REPORT. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY WAS THE MAIN REASON FOR THIS HIGH RANKING TO OUTSHINE/PERFORM THE REST? We love the work Re/Make is doing to drive positive change in the fashion industry, and we’re honored to be the top performing brand on their second annual Accountability Report. I credit our high rating to our holistic approach to sustainability and willingness to publicly disclose how we’re performing in every area of our business.


INTERVIEWS Re/Make looks at a broad variety of metrics including Traceability, Wages and Wellbeing, Commercial Practices, Raw Materials, Environmental Justice and Climate Change, and Governance, Diversity and Inclusion, so a brand has to take action in all of these areas to rank well. We focused a lot in 2021 on getting our practices public facing for the first time by releasing pieces about how we think about sustainability, how we pay our workers, our environmental impact, behind the scenes details about our operations, our racial justice plan of action, B Corp Certification, and, of course, the Sustainability Facts Label, which is live on all of our product pages. The amount of detail you can glean about our social and environmental practices separates us from most fashion brands, and I believe Re/Make recognized that in their Report’s findings. You can see their complete Report here.

We’re also innovating wherever possible to reduce emissions per product made. However, we anticipate to grow in the next few years, and we believe it’s a good thing for ethical brands to grow at the cost of fast fashion brands’ market share.

HOW CAN WE SUPPORT YOU AND NISOLO? ANY NEW PROJECTS/INITIATIVES ON THE HORIZON? Please help us scale the impact of the Sustainability Facts Label by spreading the word about the #SustainabilityFactsLabel on social media and directly with your community. Secondly, we encourage you to invite your favorite brands into this level of transparency and into embracing a more comprehensive approach to Sustainability that’s inclusive of People and Planet. Lastly, keep an eye out for the release of our Spring Summer 21 line in a couple months!

LATELY, EVERYONE IN THE SUSTAINABLE INDUSTRY HAS BEEN TALKING ABOUT DEGROWTH. AS A FASHION BRAND IT’S OFTENTIMES DIFFICULT TO ANSWER THIS QUESTION AND HOW IT CAN BE APPLIED TO A FOR-PROFIT BUSINESS. WHAT IS NISOLO’S IDEA OF DE-GROWTH? De-growth is absolutely essential for solving the climate crisis. We must consume and produce less as a global society. That said, I believe de-growth strategies are more imperative for fast fashion brands that are creating the vast majority of negative environmental and social impacts in Fashion. We are a small business with a minimal impact on the environment compared to the fast fashion giants that control the industry. We own and address our environmental impact by measuring it, achieving meaningful reductions, and offsetting 100% of our emissions. 39




INTERVIEWS

BUILDING A MISSION DRIVEN

MODELING AGENCY

An interview with Role Models Agency founders Valerie Emanuel and Anne Therese Gennari 42


INTERVIEWS HI VALERIE AND ANNE! TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOURSELVES AND YOUR BACKGROUND. WHAT LIFE EXPERIENCES HAVE LED YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW? Valerie: I am a mother, activist and native Angeleno. I started modeling very young and was signed with agencies like Ford and Wilhelmina and Industry. Modeling was very hard for me emotionally, but I knew there was a reason I was placed in the unique position to have a platform. I was very different from other models because I never thought it would be my only job, and I knew I wanted to be an entrepreneur and use modeling to get there. I knew the industry was toxic and started to work in art as a dealer for a gallery in Venice, and every few months taking a break, and traveling/modeling. I realized models all over the world had the same issuesmental health, drug addiction, and most commonly eating disorders. I got sober when I was 17 and got help with my eating disorder when I was 21, and I wanted to create a safe space for models where they could connect and heal just as I had been given the opportunity.

Anne: Growing up in Sweden, I spent a lot of time out in the wild, experiencing all the magic that Mother Earth had to offer. My appreciation for nature led me to seek new ways to live a sustainable and eco-conscious life, even in a big city like New York, a place I felt called to from a very young age. I moved to NYC to continue my studies in Marketing & Integrated Communications at City College of New York. It was during that year that I began exploring my own platform to communicate change and I decided to pursue my path as a model. Being thrown into the industry not knowing what to expect, I soon realized it did not provide me that voice I was seeking and the idea of an ethical modeling agency was born.

In 2017 I co-founded Role Models Management with Val Emanuel and the agency came to life from the pure desire to build a platform where models are given a voice to speak about things they believe in and to show the world that models can be incredible agents of change. I’m also the mother and host of Hey Change Podcast, as well as the founder of The Climate Optimist. I burn for inspiring positive change and aim to shift the narrative on climate change so that we can begin to act from courage and excitement, not fear.

HOW DID THE ROLE MODELS AGENCY COME ABOUT AND WHAT IS YOUR MISSION?

Valerie: I have always been an entrepreneur. My first real job was at TJ Maxx in Santa Monica and I used to have access to high end designer goods and resell them on ebay. I also met women there and resold designer bags and vintage clothing for them (before The Real Real. My first business idea was a health blog and youtube channel, but I was not passionate enough to stick with it, so then I got back into modeling and tried to align my personal values of sustainability and social justice with the clients I was working for. With social media I connected with smaller brands and was able to get my friends to work with these clients and on music videos and commercials as well.

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INTERVIEWS

I started putting the word out there that I wanted to manage talent in an ethical way and somehow (through a mutual friend Marci Zaroff) Anne and I were connected to start this mission in 2017. Role Models mission is to create a platform for talent to collaborate with brands that they are passionate about. Our talent is very diverse. From athletes, to vegan influencers and influencers, we connect talent with brands who are mission first and looking to create impact campaigns with aligned models and influencers.

DID YOU HAVE AN “AH-HA” TYPE OF MOMENT TO START ROLE MODELS? TELL US ABOUT THAT EXPERIENCE: Valerie: To be real I didn't know I could start an agency without working at one first! I was a scout for agencies and worked with them on a very surface level, having no idea what was going on inside, but as soon as we decided to do this I had the AHA moment that all we needed was a basic foundation of how we would be run and we also found some mentors along the way who helped with things like putting together contracts, deal memos, finance stuff, etc. The ins and outs of a talent agency are SO complex!

Anne: We both had started to gain this vision of a different kind of agency and the ahamoment appeared when we were connected by a common friend and decided to have a call. One conversation was all it took for us to decide to give it a go and Role Models came to life only a couple of months later. The next big aha-moment arrived when we, just one week after having launched our website, booked our first client. They had been searching for an ethical agency and found us! That was when we understood that we were onto something and realized it was probably time for the two of us to meet in real life. We used the first money made to fly me to LA and I spent 10 days in Valerie’s guest room. The rest is history!

HOW HAS BUSINESS BEEN GOING (ESPECIALLY SINCE COVID)? WHAT CHALLENGES/WINS HAVE YOU HAD?

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INTERVIEWS Valerie: We feel very blessed to be in business right now. We have always kept our operations very slim. We have a small team and overhead and we have been bootstrapped since our start in 2017, however that has presented some challenges! I know people assume you own a business and you must be rolling in money but we have paid other people more than ourselves, during covid we went without pay for a few months, and many more sacrifices. With all that being said, since covid our business has still coming in and although there was two years of growth stunted, we are extremely grateful to be here and also for the recognition we have received in our industry from groups like the Model activist groups, press, conferences and speaking engagements, being awarded Best Ethical Model & Talent Agency in the USA in 2021 by Lux Life magazine and now a partnership with the Model Trust as a certified ethical talent agency that gives us access to guidance and legal services that help propel our mission forward of putting models first.

HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT SCOUTING TALENT? WHAT EXACTLY DO YOU LOOK FOR WHEN SIGNING NEW TALENT? We look for the people with that special spark, someone who has a talent that can inspire but backed with a passion to make a difference in the world. Our roster spans from environmental activists to teachers and mental health advocates and we try to be inclusive in all aspects of the word; talent, age, ethnicity, background, and passion. When someone applies to be with our agency, we look for that talent, may it be in modeling, acting, music, or sports, but we also look for good energy. How do you make someone feel when you enter a room? If you make us feel good, chances are you’ll bring the same energy to a client, casting director, and your following on social media. Who you are matters these days, and we want to see that more than just what you do!

We aim to work with sustainable and ethical brands to as big an extent as we can, but our main mission is to represent models and other talent on a mission to inspire positive change. If we can pair our talent with the clients with aligning values, that’s our goal! We do, however, also support brands that are working in the right direction and are trying to do the right thing. As long as it’s not a client that completely countervails what we stand for, we try to support sustainability efforts and other ESG progressions.

I love this quote from your website: “We represent activists, artists, athletes, and change-makers. To be a Role Model is to be more than just a pretty face. We stand for empowered action and our Role Models use their platforms to inspire positive change in their fields.”

THE FASHION AND MODELING INDUSTRY CAN BE VERY TOXIC. HAVE YOU HAD ANY PERSONAL EXPERIENCES THAT MADE YOU FEEL THIS WAY?

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INTERVIEWS Valerie: As toxic as modeling was, I feel that now many people and lifestyles have been exposed there is more room for growth. When I look at the fact that models can come in a variety of shapes and sizes and wellness is a huge topic of focus in Hollywood I see that the shift has happened and we are just at the beginning. We want our talent to be a catalyst for positive change in their followers lives, and that's why we do what we do. We are creating a possibility that you can have a healthy and safe modeling career. Anne: In my short modeling career I got to experience a lot of the downfalls of the industry -to be talked about in third person as if you weren’t there, to have your body compared to the model’s next to you, to wait long hours in cold places and with few or no breaks for rest and food. Modeling can be a very unhealthy career if you don’t have the right network or if you aren’t aware of your rights and safety procedures. This is why we’re so proud to be a Models Trust verified agency!

WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON SUSTAINABLE FASHION IN GENERAL? HOW DO YOU FEEL THE INDUSTRY HAS EVOLVED AND WILL EVOLVE IN THE FUTURE? ANY TRENDS YOU’RE SEEING WITH THE BRANDS YOU WORK WITH?

Anne: So much has happened and more is on the way, which is extremely encouraging to know. When we started out, very few were talking about sustainable fashion, now you read about it in almost every Vogue. But we have long ways to go, not just in the innovation and supply chain, but also in culture and how we think about fashion as a whole. We must move away from this idea that fast fashion has planted in our culture that we can buy and dispose at this insanely rapid pace and move to a world of circularity, long-lasting value, and intention. But we are seeing shifts in those trends too. As thrifting, renting, and clothing swaps becomes more and more mainstream, I believe we can restore our relationship to fashion and build a more ethical and beautiful world, as long as we act now, big, and fast.

Val: The movement towards circular fashion has had some huge traction. I see it growing more because besides just the planet, being kind to earth has some major financial opportunities. I also see beauty and wellness brands moving towards circularity with ingredients, packaging and design. Let's hope celebs and influencers catch this trend and stop making new brands that are in today, gone tomorrow and stay on the planet in the landfill forever!

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT: WEBSITE: ROLEMODELSMGMT.COM – VALEMANUEL.COM – THECLIMATEOPTIMIST.COM FOLLOW @ROLEMODELSMGMT @MALIBUMAMA__ @ANNETHERESEGENNARI


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EDUCATION 18

HOW TO START AN ETHICAL IMPACT BUSINESS

AN INTERVIEW WITH HAYLEY ADAMSKI + JENNY NUCCIO, FOUNDERS OF THE SCHOOL OF ETHICAL IMPACT TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND?

We, Jenny Nuccio and Hayley Adamski, each have extensive experience carving their own paths in pursuit of doing good through their work.

We're here to help you navigate the road-lesstraveled of creating sustainable and profitable Ethical Impact. To take your vision and dreams, and give it a system.

I, Hayley, as a corporate trainer, non-profit executive director, business coach and consultant. And me, Jenny, as an educator, entrepreneur and founder of an international artisan empowerment program.

We create opportunities for motivated entrepreneurs and other leaders to clarify their purpose, reignite their passion and develop practical ethical impact acumen that enables them to use their professional spheres as real vehicles for social change. 48

Although we took different paths, we both found ourselves faced with the same glaring difficult realities of striving for ethical impact.


EDUCATION

WE BOTH FACED THE SAME (HARSH) REALIZATIONS Within our careers, we both faced three realities: As women, particularly young women, we both experienced the pain of not being taken seriously. These projections from others kept us from funding and other critical resources for organizational success. We both saw many people who believed they were doing "good", and although wellintentioned, they often unknowingly created or reinforced ethically harmful, long-term systems. We both found the pursuit of true positive impact to feel isolating. So often along the way, we both felt like we were the only ones fighting for change in our designated sectors. When we got stuck, we didn’t know who or where to turn to for help. Or, if we found someone with a similar heartbeat, there was a lack of willingness to actually help.

Due to the lack of support, as well as the sheer output and willpower required to fight for change on any systemic level, both reached points of significant burnout and began to ask: “Is this even worth it?”

AND SO IT BEGAN Thankfully, through our own processes of reflection and healing, we continued pushing forward, evolving our personal passions to include providing others with the access, knowledge, and encouragement we wished we would have received when we first started out. When we met, we both had arrived at a place in our own journeys where we knew there had to be a better way. A way to help people everywhere find their seat at the table with the community of support and resources they would need to successfully start, grow and thrive in purpose-driven business – without reaching a breaking point. In doing so, we see the potential for true, sustainable global impact to be exponential. The School of Ethical Impact™ was born out of our journey and crafted around the hands-on acumen acquired by our experiences along the way. We desire to make ethical impact the social norm by equipping, uplifting and sustaining women in their pursuit of good through work.

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EDUCATION

WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER ETHICAL IMPACT AND HOW DOES THIS RELATE TO SUSTAINABILITY? Mission Statement: A world where all business leverage profits to uplift people, in pursuit of ethical social change

CHANGE THE WORLD, RIGHT WHERE YOU ARE High-level educational experiences for changemakers who want to create transformational impact through their business. We’re an institute & community equipping changemakers with the confidence and tools to create real impact through business. The School of Ethical Impact™ is a 12-module online course for dynamic changemakers who want to start or scale an ethical business. Through our research-backed methodology, high-value educational experiences, and supportive cohort of like-minded students, you will have everything you need to turn your vision into real-life impact. Our heart-centered, action-based curriculum is rooted in our team’s more than 30 years of combined experience across the corporate, nonprofit, entrepreneurship and social enterprise sectors. We believe that creating lasting, meaningful change requires a holistic, wrap-around approach that focuses on all aspects of a person. Each module takes a deep dive into those that we’ve found most critical for implementing sustainable impact.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN ETHICAL IMPACT BUSINESS VS A “REGULAR” ONE?

AND HOW DOES THIS ALSO RELATE TO A SOCIAL ENTERPRISE BUSINESS? GIVE US A MINI RUN DOWN OF ALL OF THESE TERMS FOR THE READER The word "ethical" is trendy in the marketplace today. Everyone wants "ethical" clothing. An "ethical" lifestyle. To create "ethical" business. At its core, being “ethical” begins with understanding that all of our actions—from what we say we say, to how we say it, to the way in which we follow through on what we say—carry the weight of impact, whether positive or negative. Ethical Impacted is rooted in our 5 P’s Sustainability Framework. The 5 P’s Sustainability Framework is the lens through which we address each aspect of a business, from organizational structure to product sourcing, financing and branding. Whether you’re looking to start, scale or sustain your business, they can help you ensure ethical impact is at the center of all you do. Purpose - The thing that you are fighting for that lights you up People - Those who are interwoven in your business donors, employees, vendors, clients, beneficiaries, and communities. Planet - The thing that houses your mission and is affected by your people, profit and purpose. Profit - A powerful vehicle for sustaining people and impact Partnerships - Embracing proactive and strategic collectiveness for mutual and global gain To create a positive impact, we must be intentional with how we show up in the world.


WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND FOR SOMEONE JUST STARTING OUT ON BUILDING THEIR ETHICAL IMPACT BUSINESS? Radically listen. Many people have a solution before even asking what is the need or what is the problem to be solved? Go radically listen and then from there, create an ethical impact that will create a legacy.

ANYTHING ELSE YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE? ANY NEW INITIATIVES YOU’RE WORKING ON? HOW CAN WE SUPPORT YOU?

WHEN IT COMES TO TRULY PRODUCING A HUGE IMPACT, WHAT HAVE YOU SEEN WITH YOUR STUDENTS THAT HAS BEEN THE MOST IMPACTFUL? At the school we believe that you start by being grounded in your core values and your mission. It has been a beautiful journey to see new and older brands reevaluate this. It is always hard to do an audit of your company and really look inward, but this is more than transactional change, at the School we want to create transformation.

We are! We are now selling each module separately as well as the whole course is available at any time. For high touch point and more one on one mentorship - consulting is offered and VIP strategy days. We are here for you! School of Ethical Impact @schoolofethicalimpact

Seeing our cohorts identify their values and become more aligned in their mission has created more impact and growth for both themselves as leaders, but also in the communities they are serving. It goes back to our 5 P’s - purpose, people, planet, profit, partnerships. To realign with your purpose will give you the right lens to be innovative, grow, and nurture all aspects of your ethical impact.

FOR SOMEONE WHO IS BUILDING A SUSTAINABLE FASHION BRAND, WHAT ARE SOME KEY STRATEGIES THEY NEED TO IMPLEMENT IN ORDER TO GROW AND BECOME A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS? They need to stop focusing on what entity they run in and shift their perspective. We find this is a bottleneck and limiting belief. Many ethical impact brands take on a variety of forms non-profit, for profit and hybrid. They are a brand with a socially conscious side. They work with marginalized populations, have vegan standards and/or ethical standards for supply chain, they run a give back partnership, etc. The biggest stumbling block is blaming your entity on why you could not be creative and successful. It is not about having a business mindset or a nonprofit mindset - it is about having a sustainability mindset. When ethical impact leaders shift their perspective and implement a new way of thinking which is aligned with our 5 P’s, everything changes. 51



EDUCATION

CONSIDERING BECOMING B-CORP CERTIFIED? 53


EDUCATION So you’re already running a business built on the principles of sustainability and fairness, and you really want to show the world that you’re committed to these values. How do you do it? Well, you could buy a bullhorn and climb onto the nearest rooftop and start shouting, but the neighbors might not like that. Have you, instead, ever considered becoming a B Corp? A “B Corp,” which is short for Certified B Corporation, is a private designation that has grown in popularity throughout the sustainability community in recent years as a way to set yourself apart from other businesses. To become a B Corp, a business must not only meet high standards of performance, but also high standards of accountability and transparency in several different categories, including sustainability, charitable giving, and more. Businesses that are B Corp certified get to slap a big, shiny B Corp badge on their branding (you may have seen it before) and this is a great indicator to consumers that this business not only talks the talk when it comes to its values, it also walks the walk.

HOW DOES B CORP CERTIFICATION WORK?

B Corp certification is granted by a private organization called the B Lab. Before you can become a B Corp, you have to take an assessment (the “B Impact Assessment”) that is administered by the B Lab team. In order to achieve B Corp certification, a business must:

Demonstrate high social and environmental performance by achieving a B Impact Assessment score of 80 or above and passing a risk review. Note that the assessment looks back to the preceding 12 months, so only businesses that have been around for at least a year can become certified. Companies under one year, however, can apply for “pending” B Corp status! Demonstrate a legal commitment by changing their corporate governance structure to be accountable to all stakeholders (not just shareholders!) and achieve benefit corporation status, if this is an option in the jurisdiction where the business is located. Exhibit transparency by allowing information about their performance measured against B Lab’s standards to be publicly available on their B Corp profile on B Lab’s website.

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So now that you understand how certification works, let’s talk preparation.

PREPARING FOR B CORP CERTIFICATION Everyone’s path to certification will look different, but there are a few things any business can do to prepare: Take an assessment. You can take the B Impact Assessment for free, so should absolutely check it out in preparation! The B Impact Assessment can take anywhere from two to four hours to complete, so make sure you’re settled in somewhere comfortable. Don’t have the bandwidth to do a full assessment? You can also take a mini snapshot assessment that can help you get an idea of where you stand; this mini snapshot assessment will take about thirty minutes to complete. Create an improvement plan. After you take either the snapshot assessment or the full B Impact Assessment, you can create an improvement plan through the B Lab website. The website also has tons of best practice guides and improvement case studies that can be very helpful. Designate a point person. B Lab will recommend that you designate a point person to work through all of the assessment questions and gather supporting documentation. In my experience, this is very helpful. Not only will it keep the process more organized, giving a single person ownership over this process will help keep things on track. But also, be prepared to loop in others for feedback and materials! However, just because one point person is responding to the assessment does not mean that they’ll have all of the information and materials they need straight from their own brain. Be prepared for the point person to set meetings to brainstorm responses, deputize others to carry out minor tasks, etc. so that they are able to move swiftly through the process. Call your lawyer. If benefit corporations exist in your jurisdiction, the B Lab will require you to become one. This means that if your business is currently an LLC, you will have to convert to a benefit corporation; if your business is currently a corporation, you will need to adjust some of your paperwork to become a benefit corporation. Make sure to reach out to your lawyer sooner rather than later to figure out how much time it will take/what it will cost to amend your governing documents with the state to make this happen! Additionally, a lot of the questions around employment practices will require you to have written policies in place, and a good lawyer is always the best resource for employment policies.



DON’T FORGET TO PREPARE YOUR BANK ACCOUNT! As mentioned earlier, the B Lab is a private organization, which means they rely on application fees (not taxes, like a government entity would) to operate. You’ll pay a non-refundable submission fee of $150.00 when you submit your B Impact Assessment. Upon successful completion of your certification, you will sign an agreement and pay your annual certification fee. This fee varies by region and may also be subject to additional costs depending on size and structure, so B Lab recommends that you visit your local B Lab website for more information. In the US, the certification fee starts at $1,000 and increases based on revenue.

WRAPPING THINGS UP The B Corp journey can be long and winding, but remember that you don’t have to go it alone! The B Lab team provides tons of resources and hosts frequent information sessions to help you understand the process. Your attorney can also be a great resource, especially if they have gone through the process on their own before! And of course, the B Corp directory is full of businesses that have been in your shoes; browse it for names you recognize and try reaching out directly. We’re all in this together, right?

Olivia Phillips is a San Diego, California-based attorney and certified human resources professional. Her law firm, Better APC, works with purpose-driven startups, nonprofits, and creatives. She's passionate about empowering her clients to become better versions of themselves, so that they can change the world. 56



Black ring one piece: netta [‫]ֶנַט ע‬ @netta - (Limited pieces, ethical and handcrafted in Bali, minimized waste) Virtuous circle hoops: ARTICLE22 @article_22 (handcrafted, upcycled bombshell from Laos during the Vietnam war, preserve traditional Laos artisans) Long black leather gloves: Vintage


INTERVIEWS

4

An eco-editorial story produced by Candice Lam 59



INTERVIEWS

I

HI CANDICE! TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. WHAT MAKES YOU, YOU? was born and raised in Macau, China, a city next to Hong Kong, which used to be a Portuguese colony. Growing up in a mix of Eastern and Western culture; surrounded by beautiful unique European architecture, traditional Chinese values reinforced by my parents and grandparents, I dreamt of leaving my hometown to explore the West at a very young age.

At the age of 16, I persuaded my protective parents to let me study abroad in Canada. There, I discovered my passion and love for the Theatre - the creative expression beyond the boundary of language, which then led me moving to Los Angeles and London to study acting. A few years later, I relocated to New York City to pursue film/TV, fashion and theater. So, that's my background story. And here is what makes ME, me: I love animals, trees, flowers, nature, food, star gazing, drawing, yoga, playing piano, and spending quality time with family and loved ones. I started studying Buddhism and Confucius in recent years. I meditate. I became a vegetarian 6 years ago. I care for the environment and all living beings. I constantly ask questions and desire to seek truths. 61


INTERVIEWS WHAT DO YOU CURRENTLY DO AND HOW DID YOU GET HERE? During my acting study in Los Angeles, I dabbled into the modeling world, but not until later when I moved to New York, where I got signed with my first Mother Agency and began my modeling career professionally. I was extremely fortunate that my modeling career took off quite successfully in just a couple of years, where I have established great relationships with top designers, brands and people in the industry. I have walked in New York Fashion Weeks for many seasons, been interviewed and filmed by Harper’s Bazaar HK, and have been featured on magazine covers.

It was my first time producing an editorial photoshoot or anything really. I definitely dove in with a ton of enthusiasm and passion, yet as they say, the first one is always the hardest. Well, I absolutely experienced a lot of bumps on the road to a point where I almost thought the project would never get done. First, assembling the team was a challenge as it was a fully collaborative project, finding the highprofile creators who share the same aesthetic vision as well as willing and able to volunteer their time and energy was not easy. Some have felt the restrictions of only being able to use eco-friendly products, props and set up prohibit their abilities to freely create the looks we envision. Then there were

At the same time, as an actress I have starred and costarred in a number of feature and short films that have gotten into festivals, had some great TV appearances as well as performing in a Shakespeare Play in the park. I have had a fabulous time. However, things took a bit of a turn in 2020, when the world shut down, and I slowed down and turned inward. I began to question what I really wanted. After a journey of self-learning and reflecting; I am currently working to merge my artistic works into my passion of sustainability. Thus, this project was born.

schedule conflicts, weather delays, location issues etc. The aim for every aspect of the shoot to be done as sustainably as possible certainly added much more logistic limitations to the production. Not to mention other production headaches such as raising funds to cover production costs (I started a GoFundMe campaign), finding eco-friendly catering services, minimizing production wastes, offsetting carbon footprint occurred during the shoot etc. Honestly, it still feels like a miracle (in my small-scale kinda way) that this project got done. And I share much gratitudes for the accomplishment to the amazingly supportive people who have said “yes” to be part of the project, as volunteers, contributors, advisors,

GIVE US SOME INSIGHT ABOUT THE PHOTOSHOOT? HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT? I decided to produce this Eco- Editorial photoshoot where I’d also be the model as a demonstration to showcase

DID YOU HAVE AN “AH-HA” TYPE OF MOMENT?

how

photoshoots

can

be

product sponsors, donors, and creators. This was truly a team effort.

HOW DID YOU MEET ALL OF THESE AMAZING CREATORS?

produced

ethically and sustainably without compromising the

As a person of colour, I felt compelled to support the

aesthetic performance and creative outcome. Every

POC community by having a diverse team. I first

brand and product we featured and used was

went through the network of people whom I worked

carefully selected for their sustainable and ethical

with; Nico Ramirez, a fashion photographer from

practices that best align with our beliefs.

Colombia who I met via an outdoor nature-based fashion film shoot, was one of the first key people

The shoot concept and title: “4 Elements” of nature

who hopped on to the project in a heartbeat. Nico is

(WATER, FIRE, EARTH & AIR) just came to me one

the founder and creative lead at EAST of NORMAL,

day and I thought it was perfectly suitable to do an

whose works include NARS, Laura Mericier, Tag

editorial photoshoot about the environment with a

Heuer, and Tiffany’s. I then was referred by a model

nature inspired story. I soon realized that my vision

friend of mine, Marsha, to Jennifer Nnamani,

was way more ambitious than I initially attempted

founder and chief creative officer at Beau Monde

to. So, I had to split the editorial into a two-part

Society, an eco-focused fashion communications

photoshoot; executing two elements per shoot. Thus

agency.

came two separate teams and shoots for one concept. 62


Block Printed Poly Double Faced Dress:Margo Isadora @margoisadora (Hand-made, block printed, one of a kind) Gold tone Snake Earring: ARTICLE22 @article_22 (handcrafted, upcycled bombshell from Laos during the Vietnam war, preserve traditional Laos artisans) Red leather gloves: Vintage


Bandeau swimsuit Nucci: netta [‫@ ]ֶנַט ע‬netta (Ethical consumerism practices, handcrafted in Bali, limited pieces, employee fair living wages) Pukha Pearls Bracelet: Washed Ashore @getwashedashore (eco-conscious, ethically handmade, 100% upcycled pure & natural pearls, certified Green Business by the UN) Nail Art: Sundays Studio @sundays_studio (Non-toxic, vegan, cruelty-free)



INTERVIEWS Jennifer generously agreed to be the stylist and

I believed his expression of combining ancient

creative director on the project. She gave me much

Chinese elements and western cultural experience

valuable advice and confidence in executing the

would be of great endeavor in shooting the EARTH

shoot. I met my make-up artist Mark Phong Tram,

and AIR elements. Ivan’s works have been featured

via a clean and cruelty free beauty product shoot.

in Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and L’Officiel

Mark did absolute magic on creating the amazing

magazines etc. Rie Ogura, the one and only cruelty-

looks for Water & Fire elements using solely eco-

free make-up artist I know, used a mix of her

friendly make-up products by Dab Herb (Food

cruelty-free make-up kit and products from Nutu

Grade, Organic, Vegan, Cruelty Free) and Thrive

Moringa (Organic, Sustainable) for skin prep and

Cosmetics (Vegan, Cruelty Free). My hair-stylist Yu

River Organics (Vegan, zero waste) to create the

Nakata, who we met at an Asian-theme editorial

make-up looks. Yu Nakata was my hair stylist again

shoot, with her talented hands at work, has brought

the 2nd time around, and did her tricks beautifully.

the elements to life. Then there is Karen Yabuta,

Special thanks to Elvis Maynard for providing us

editor of TWELV Magazine, who previously

with his precious props, and Cici Floral as our florist,

interviewed me for their magazine, had graciously

providing us with recycled and repurposed floral

offered to help as our wardrobe assistant and art

arrangements. We also have Yvonne Chen as set and

consultant. And after many referrals, I found Via

photography assistant, and Astrid Ji, a talented

Min, a Parsons graduate to do set design, and Zoé

photographer herself, volunteered to help shoot

Bergeron, a BFA student at SVA to be the art

behind- the- scenes for our project.

assistant. As for Part 2 (EARTH & AIR), I was extremely

WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ABOUT THE MODELING AND FASHION INDUSTRY?

fortunate to have connected with Eunice Pais who is the founder of Pais Agency, an ethical and eco-

My experience of the modeling industry has been

focused photography agency based in Portugal.

interesting, diverse, intense and fun.

Eunice has held my hand all the way from being the Creative Director of the PART 2 shoot to playing a

The fashion industry as a whole, I can only speak

key part in the brands vetting, talents outreach,

from my limited perception as a fashion model

keeping our production in line with sustainable

within the industry and through my own research

practices, post-production and publishing process

about the production of the industry. It is no secret

etc. I truly felt I could not have done it without her.

that there is a huge amount of waste and pollution

I connected with Eunice after reading about PAIS on

going into the production of most mainstream

Global Garbs. And when Eunice saw GoFundMe

fashion labels. However, the fashion industry is only

campaign, she offered to support and it sparked our

one of many profit driven corporations and

meaningful partnership on this project.

industries, that their business practice is not yet sustainable. With the ever growing attention on

Eunice and I share very similar values in

climate change and the rising demands for “green”

contributing toward sustainable fashion and

energy and “green” business practices, one must first

production through art. She founded PAIS as an

educate themselves what it really means to be

alternative to how the fashion photography industry

“sustainable” and be “green”.

usually operates, by creating a practice rooted in collaboration, creativity, community, and

Through producing this project, I have learnt a great

environmental awareness. Eunice also helped

deal of the challenges that the industry and

connect me with our wonderful sustainable

individual brands face in “going-green”; be it lack of

wardrobe stylist Terumi Alana Murao. Eunice and

eco-friendly brand awareness, limitations on keeping

Terumi really understood the core value and

up the performance for certain products due to its

aesthetic goals of the project which gave me great

eco-friendly nature, higher production cost that get

assurance in executing the concept.

passed down to consumers etc. I think my goal for

Our photographer, Ivan Liu’s work caught my eyes

this project is to showcase what can be done in a

as I found his simplicity aesthetic speaks to our

sustainable way while acknowledging certain

concept.

challenges that make it difficult to be “truly sustainable”.

66



INTERVIEWS The bottom line is that as consumers and human

SPEAKING OF A SUSTAINABILITY JOURNEY…GIVE US

beings sharing this planet on earth, we have an innate responsibility to look out for the best interest of our

SOME INSIGHT AS TO HOW YOU GOT STARTED AND WHY THIS IS IMPORTANT TO YOU?

world and for our future generations. It really only

I started getting passionately involved in sustainability

comes down to choice. Do you choose to consume cheap, low-quality and convenient products that are causing harm to your health and the environment, or do you choose to consume less, but of better quality, and better for you and the earth? I notice there are certain changes in the fashion industry, be it more conversations about eco-awareness and diversity in representations. Yet, some of it no doubt is for marketing and trends. One must educate themselves constantly to distinguish between “green-washing” and the truth, in order to make the best choices possible. DID YOU EVER EXPERIENCE ANY NEGATIVE MOMENTS THAT HAVE LED YOU TOWARDS YOUR SUSTAINABILITY JOURNEY?

life-style in 2020 (when the pandemic started) By chance, I stumbled upon an environmental documentary film -”The Story of Plastic” which had left a great impact on me; I was inspired to host an online screening of the documentary inviting people through my network in the entertainment and fashion industry. I was hoping to give a bit of insight to the people in my industries about our negative environmental impact, as I believe story tellers and creative individuals hold powers to influence what is well informed. To my surprise, the screening and post-screening discussion was well received and I was encouraged to continue the line of work. Thus, I started an ecocommunity group to share and discuss environmental

The Eco-Editorial project actually came about because

solutions, personal impactful changes, news, education

I started feeling depressed about my work as a fashion

and film screenings etc. I began switching all my

model. The more involved I get with the

personal products such as shampoo & body wash,

environmental side of work, the more I realize I am

dental care, lotion, skin care, hair and makeup

part of the very problem I claim to solve.

products etc to zero waste and eco-friendly products.

I advocate for zero waste and yet I am part of the

I stopped buying produce that are in single-used

consumer culture and system that its entirety is

plastic packages, that being said I have not purchased

based on creating waste. I was conflicted. I am part of

berries at the grocery stores in 2 years. started

the problem.

writing emails to companies I like and asking them to stop using plastic packages.

I first went to my partner, who always provides me with great insights about the world and things about this matter. I asked him what I should do. He then asked me a series of questions which led to more questions about “why is it a problem?” Suddenly, an answer came to me and I said “it is a problem because I perceive it as a problem”. I then shared my inner conflicts during my Buddhism study. The answer or advice I got was that instead of feeling negative about my work, I shall focus on utilizing my platform and influence to spread positive messages and share my beliefs through my work. With these two insights, I began to realize perhaps there is no problem with my work or the industry and pollution and all that, the problem is in my head. Thus, I shifted from fighting the “problem” to accepting it. Instead of feeling depressed, I transformed the negative to positive, to make what I believe is a positive impact with what I got, and not necessarily expecting change. Because I’m not here to change the world. I’m only here to do my part. 68

I joined various eco-groups and watched documentaries to keep educating myself, and shared the information I learned with my community group. It is important to me because seeing animals suffer, forests being burnt down, rivers drying up made me sad. And I feel that, at least for now, the only way for me to not feel too sad is to continue practicing acceptance and strive to do my part the best I can. ANYTHING ELSE YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE? HOW CAN WE SUPPORT YOU? I am just super excited for your readers to learn about our meaningful project, and I wish to inspire others to always create from their heart, never stop learning and growing. I too wish to keep learning and educating myself on my sustainability journey, and be able to do more of this type of projects moving forward. If you're interested in joining my eco-community group I mentioned above, you can simply send an email to virtualscreenings@gmail.com to join the mailing list. Together, we will always be stronger.




Long sleeve ruffled collar mesh dress in nude: Monica Byrne Maison @monicabyrnemaison (Handcrafted Couture, made-to-order, preserving the essential heritage of craftsmanship and savoir-faire) Wooded Waffle Studs earrings: Body Parts Jewelry @bodypartsdesign (Handcrafted, one-of-a-kind, repurposed walnut and argentium silver posts)


CREATIVE TEAM (PART 1- water & Fire)

Sustainable Wardrobe and Jewelry credits for (WATER )

Producer/Story/Model: Candice Lam @iamcandiceLam- represented by @WilhelminaModels @NewMadisonModels @foxmodelsinternational Photographer/Film Director: Nico Ramirez @eastofnormal -founder/ creative director at EAST of NORMAL (Award-Winning Creative Agency) Stylist/Creative Director: Jennifer Nnamani @beaumondesocietyFounder/Chief Creative Officer at Beau Monde Society (Eco-focused creative agency) Key Makeup: Mark Phong Tram @markphong_tram- Represented by ABTP Key Hair stylist: Yu Nakata @yunkt- Represented by 87artists Wardrobe Assistant/Art Consultant: Karen Yabuta @kya_rrrren- Editor of TWELV Magazine Set Designer: Via Min @viamin

Block Printed Poly Double Faced Dress:Margo Isadora @margoisadora (Hand-made, block printed, one of a kind) Gold tone Snake Earring: ARTICLE22 @article_22 (handcrafted, upcycled bombshell from Laos during the Vietnam war, preserve traditional Laos artisans) Red leather gloves: Vintage

Art Assistant: Zoé Bergeron @zoe.be

Sustainable Wardrobe and Jewelry credits for (WATER )

BBlack ring one piece:netta [‫@ ]ֶנַט ע‬netta - (Limited pieces, ethical and handcrafted in Bali, minimized waste) Virtuous circle hoops: ARTICLE22 @article_22 (handcrafted, White halter Wrap around swimsuit:netta [‫@ ]ֶנַט ע‬netta - (Ethical

upcycled bombshell from Laos during the Vietnam war, preserve

consumerism practices, handcrafted in Bali, limited pieces, employee fair

traditional Laos artisans)

living wages)

Long black leather gloves: Vintage

Alana Pearl Earrings: Washed Ashore @getwashedashore (eco-conscious, ethically handmade, 100% recycled sterling silver, 100% upcycled pure & natural pearls, certified Green Business by the UN) Silver Chain Bracelet with pearl charm:Washed Ashore @getwashedashore Nail Art: sundays studio @sundays_studio (Non-toxic, vegan, cruelty-free)

CREATIVE TEAM (PART 2 - Earth & Air) Producer/Story/Model: Candice Lam @iamcandiceLamrepresented by @WilhelminaModels @NewMadisonModels @foxmodelsinternational Photographer: Ivan Liu (aka YongQi Liu) @ivanliu Creative Director: Eunice Pais @pais.agency -Founder of Pais Agency ethical and eco-focused photography agency Wardrobe Stylist: Terumi Alana Murao @meru_turao - Ecofocused Key Makeup Artist: Rie Ogura @rieogura_makeup- Cruelty-Free Makeup Artist Key Hair stylist: Yu Nakata @yunkt - Represented by 87artists Props: Elvis Maynard @elvismaynard Florist: Cici Floral @cicifloralnewyork

Bandeau swimsuit Nucci: netta [‫@ ]ֶנַט ע‬netta - (Ethical consumerism practices, handcrafted in Bali, limited pieces, employee fair living wages)

Set & Photography Assistant: Yvonne Chen @yvonnyc_ Behind the Scenes Photography: Astrid Ji @astridjiphoto

Pukha Pearls Bracelet: Washed Ashore @getwashedashore (eco-conscious,

Sustainable Wardrobe and Jewelry credits for (EARTH):

ethically handmade, 100% upcycled pure & natural pearls, certified Green Business by the UN) Nail Art: sundays studio @sundays_studio (Non-toxic, vegan, cruelty-free)

Green Horizon Kimono Jacket + Harem pants: Lâcher Prise @lacherprise.apparel (100% tencel sourced from certified forrest and lenzing fibers, ethical source, minimum waste, employee fair living Double Layer Block Printed Mesh Dress :Margo Isadora @margoisadora (Hand-made, block printed, one of a kind) Cosmo Ring: ARTICLE22 @article_22 (handcrafted, upcycled bombshell from Laos during the Vietnam war, preserve traditional Laos artisans) White Howlite bracelet with silver Lotu & Aqua Beads bracelet : Belivity @belivity (handmade) Tide Hoops:Washed Ashore @getwashedashore (eco-conscious, ethically handmade, 100% recycled sterling silver, certified Green Business by the UN) Nail Art: sundays studio @sundays_studio (Non-toxic, vegan, cruelty-free)

wages) Olive Everything Bikini top: netta [‫@ ]ֶנַט ע‬netta - (Limited pieces, ethical and handcrafted in Bali, minimized waste) Organic Link Statement Stud: Body Parts Jewelry @bodypartsdesign (Handcrafted, one-of-a-kind, repurposed walnut and argentium silver posts, minimum waste) Walnut Block Bangle in Natural: Body Parts Jewelry @bodypartsdesign Upcycled Wooden Ring(left picture): Body Parts Jewelry @bodypartsdesign


Bias seamed white silk mesh dress: Monica Byrne Maison @monicabyrnemaison (Sewn in NYC, Handcrafted Couture, made-to-order, preserving the essential heritage of craftsmanship and savoir-faire) Silver tone Cuffs(left picture):: ARTICLE22 @article_22 (handcrafted, upcycled bombshell from Laos during the Vietnam war, preserve traditional Laos artisans) Stone ring and bracelet in copper(right picture): Illumin Designs (Handcrafted, one-of-a-kind, inspired by nature)

Aluminum pendant necklace: Body Parts Jewelry @bodypartsdesign (Handcrafted, one-of-a-kind, upcycled aluminum, minimum waste) Virtuous Circle Earrings:ARTICLE22 @article_22 (handcrafted, upcycled bombshell from Laos during the Vietnam war, preserve traditional Laos artisans) Nail Art: sundays studio @sundays_studio (Non-toxic, vegan, cruelty-free)

Jasmin dress: Lâcher Prise @lacherprise.apparel (100% tencel sourced from certified forrest and lenzing fibers, ethical source, minimum waste, employee fair living wages)

Other honourable credits/ Sustainable Sponsors/special thanks Lunch catering (Part 1): Spicy Moon @spicymoonnyc Breakfast catering (Part 2): Coffee Mob @cofeemob Make up & Skin products: Dab Herb Makeup Luxe Long sleeve ruffled collar mesh dress in nude: Monica Byrne Maison

@dabherbmakeupluxe

@monicabyrnemaison (Handcrafted Couture, made-to-order, preserving the

Make up products: River Organics @riverorganicsbeauty, Thrive

essential heritage of craftsmanship and savoir-faire)

Causemetics @thrivecausemetics

Wooded Waffle Studs earrings: Body Parts Jewelry @bodypartsdesign (Handcrafted, one-of-a-kind, repurposed walnut and argentium silver posts)

Skin products: Nutu Moringa @nutumoringa Hair products: Vegamore @vegamour Floral (Part 1): Caribbean Cuts Corp @caribbeancutscorp Floral (Part 2): Cici Floral @cicifloralnewyork Resources: @resuable_solutionsnyc @greenthebid

Special thanks to the people who contributed to our project:

The Mazeking Loren S Fielder John Kurdewan Qianwen Yu Mabel Liang Helena Lam Cotton Canvas Cloak: Monica Byrne Maison @monicabyrnemaison (Sewn in NYC, Handcrafted Couture, made-to-order, preserving the essential heritage of craftsmanship and savoir-faire) Textured Trouser Cream: Kordal @kordalstudio (Natural, Organic, recycled textiles, paying workers fair living wages) Onyx Wood Collar & Walnut Block Bangle(right picture): Body Parts Jewelry @bodypartsdesign (Handcrafted, one-of-a-kind, repurposed walnut)

Wai Tak Chan Tsubasa Watanabe Yun Yang Marie Luarce-Reyes Keith Fox Ivan Wong Yolanda Mendiveles

Sustainable Wardrobe and Jewelry credits for (AIR):

Susane Pinedo Agus Panzoni Janine Tondu Rene Bastian Moe Shahrooz Kilke von Brockhausen Karin Elgai Marie Powell Keyu Liu Annasole Podesta Ed Roman Joseph M McNally

73


INTERVIEWS

New One of our favorite parts of running this magazine is discovering different content creators who are not only changing the “influencer” game, but are also creating businesses of their own from their following. We recently discovered Tyler Chanel, a blogger and creator of the Influencer Rate Calculator.

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INTERVIEWS

TYLER CHANEL

founder of Thrifts & Tangles It’s funny how ethical bloggers are oftentimes treated differently than your typical “lifestyle blogger” in that some brands assume that they’ll just post for free. It’s assumed that because you have higher standards and have a certain set of standards and values, that you’ll work for free or for gifting. After having trouble determining her ad rates as an ethical influencer, Tyler set out to create a tool that helps other bloggers easily figure out what to charge brands. Not only does this take the guesswork out for other influencers but it encourages content creators to get paid a fair wage from brands. We’re inspired and applaud bloggers like Tyler who are not only helping to influence others to live a more sustainable lifestyle, but are a resource for other ethical creators who are changing the narrative of what it means to be an influence and blogger.

HI TYLER! TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF. WHAT MAKES YOU, YOU? Hi! I was born in Chicago, raised in Las Vegas, and now I live in Los Angeles! I’m super passionate about thrift shopping, home decor, financial literacy, and racial justice. I also enjoy writing and being creative. In middle school and high school, I was always on the yearbook or newspaper committee. In college, I attended UNLV and majored in psychology. My favorite classes were African American History and Multicultural Psychology.

I’ve always been interested in storytelling, history, and aesthetics, so it makes sense that I eventually got into blogging.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO START THRIFTS & TANGLES? WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO START AN ETHICAL BLOG VS JUST A REGULAR LIFESTYLE BLOGGER? I started my blog, Thrifts & Tangles, in 2012 as a way to document my natural hair journey. In 2013, I became obsessed with thrift shopping, so I added that as another blog category. I had so much fun sharing thrift hauls, thrift tips, and thrifted outfit inspiration.

My goal was to inspire others to #GiveThriftingAChance. Now, in 2022, my blog has turned into an ethical blog covering thrifting, sustainability, and natural hair. I also share tips to help content creatives get paid their worth. I’ve always enjoyed writing and taking photos, so having a blog just made sense. It first started as a hobby, but I started monetizing it and turning it into my side hustle in 2019. In my day to day life, I work full-time in the insurance industry. I’m so grateful that I have a 4-day work week at my job, because it makes it easier to balance everything.

75


INTERVIEWS

My values are super important to me which is why I consider myself an ethical blogger. For me, being an ethical blogger means promoting companies that are ethical, sustainable, and circular. - Tyler Chanel 76


INTERVIEWS Over the years, I’ve learned that many industries (specifically fashion) are wasteful, harmful, and exploitative. I did not want to use my platforms to highlight any fast-fashion companies. My overall goal with my platforms is to help my readers find ethical alternatives for products and to educate on why it’s important to be a conscious consumer.

WHAT HAS BEEN A BIG “WIN” FOR YOU? My biggest win was being featured on The Tamron Hall show. I spoke on sustainable living and composting. It was such an amazing opportunity and it was really cool to see myself on live TV.

HOW DO YOU FEEL BEING AN ETHICAL BLOGGER HAS DIFFERED TO A “REGULAR” BLOGGER? HAS THIS AFFECTED WHO YOU WORK WITH? HAVE YOU EVER HAD TO TURN DOWN A JOB? Being an ethical blogger means staying true to your values and really vetting a company before promoting them or working with them. As an ethical blogger, I work with brands who are mindful about their impact on the world. I’ve turned down a lot of good paying jobs because they were fast-fashion companies or were dishonest about their company’s ethics. There’s a lot of greenwashing that goes on, where companies pretend to be environmentally friendly but can’t actually back it up. If a company’s values do not align with mine then I politely decline the partnership.

YOU ALSO CREATED THE INFLUENCER CALCULATOR. TELL US HOW THAT CAME ABOUT AND HOW YOU CREATED THIS PRODUCT?

I’m so proud of this product! I created The Influencer Rate Calculator as a way to help myself figure out what to charge for brand deals. I was getting an influx of deals in my inbox when I hit 10,000 followers on instagram and felt really overwhelmed when trying to figure out what to charge. The Influencer Rate Calculator helped me figure out what to charge in a matter of seconds.

Usually when you ask someone how much to charge for a brand deal, they will say “It depends”, which is not helpful at all. So I decided to do research on industry averages. I researched how much PR managers paid influencers for different campaigns and how much influencers charged for different campaigns. I inputted numbers of over 50 influencers of all sizes and niches to come up with an average to charge.

77


INTERVIEWS I shared the calculator with my friends from The Orange Collab to help them figure out their rates and they encouraged me to release the calculator as a product. I’m so glad I did because I’ve helped so many influencers increase their rates! The best moment for me was learning that one of the influencers who bought my calculator booked her first 5figure brand campaign! She told me before using the calculator she would’ve only charged a couple thousands of dollars.

WHAT IS THE BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION ABOUT BLOGGERS IN GENERAL? WITH ETHICAL BLOGGERS? The biggest misconception about bloggers is that the job is easy. Ethical or not, blogging takes a lot of work! Building an engaged community, interacting with the community, negotiating with brands, creating content is literally a full-time job! Some bloggers may make it look easy, but there is so much work that goes on behind the scenes.

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WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST MEMORABLE CAMPAIGN OR MOMENT THUS FAR IN YOUR BLOGGING CAREER? WHAT BRAND AND WHY? My most memorable campaign was working with Dove to encourage people to sign the petition to pass the CROWN Act. Dove co-founded the CROWN Coalition to advance anti-hair discrimination legislation called The CROWN Act. The CROWN Act is a law which prohibits discrimination based on hair style and hair texture. Hair discrimination is a huge problem in America (and several other countries). This mission was something I felt personally connected with and will make a difference in the world. I think Dove is doing amazing things to help achieve racial justice and working with a brand that is making an impact is really rewarding.

WHAT’S ONE (OR MORE) THING YOU WISH BRANDS KNEW WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING WITH ETHICAL BLOGGERS.

One thing I wish brands knew when working with ethical bloggers (or any blogger) is that bloggers deserve to be paid for the content we create. I get really confused when a brand asks me to work for free, especially if they claim they are ethical and claim that they pay workers fairly. Brands need to stop taking advantage of bloggers and start offering fair wages.

WHAT’S THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU’VE EVER RECEIVED WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR BUSINESS? The best advice I received when it comes to my business is to work to live and not live to work. I love working and blogging, but sometimes I get lost in it. I forget to step away from my business and actually enjoy life. If you are a business owner, remember to take time away from your business and give yourself permission to enjoy life and to rest. To learn more about Tyler visit: www.thriftsandtangles.com Follow: @thriftsandtangles YouTube


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