GLOBAL GARBS - A sustainable fashion magazine by Global Garbs

global garbs A SUSTAINABLE FASHION MAGAZINE Issue 5 | Fall / Winter 2021-2022

THE

MAKER SUSTAINABLE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY AS ACTIVISM

ISSUE

YOUR SUSTAINABLE HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

GLOBAL GARBS Editor-in-chief Lauren Tanaka-Fortune

Editorial & Marketing Assistant

Contributors & Interviews

PARTNERS

directory

10 SUSTAINABLE OBSESSIONS

EAT. DRINK. SHOP CONSCIOUSLY NYC edition

SUSTAINABLE HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE with Made Trade's Cayley Pater

FOUNDER INTERVIEW Gaia Giladi of HILOS

EDUCATION 18

WHY SUPPORTING INDEPENDENT DESIGNERS IS THE KEY TO SUSTAINABILITY WITH REKA AFAB by Lauren Tanaka-Fortune

RE-NEW PROJECT Changing the lives of refugees

LESS FACTS, MORE STORIES By Tena of Thinking Threads

OPINION PIECE Let's change the next twenty years to slow fashion

EAT. DRINK. SHOP CONSCIOUSLY - NYC EDITION

HOW WORKING WITH A STYLIST CAN MAKE YOU MORE SUSTAINABLE An interview with Andrea Cameron

INTERVIEW WITH TIFFANY ALEXANDER

INTERVIEWS INTERVIEW WITH AMANDA KRNACH

An interview with Made Trade Founder, Cayley Pater

ETHICALLY ELEVATED PRODUCTS

MEET THE MAKERS HILOS KRNACH THINKING THREADS LAIT

SUSTAINABLE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY AS ACTIVISM An interview with photographer Esme Buxton

THE NEW INFLUENCERS Tiffany Alexander and Kara Fabella

INTERVIEW WITH SUSTAINABLE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER ESME BUXTON

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR I can’t believe it’s already been a year since I launched

This is our biggest issue to date. As pretty much a

this magazine. If you’re reading this, I thank you from

one-woman show, I can honestly say that while the

the bottom of my heart for your support.

entrepreneurship road has not been easy, I am always encouraged by the community. The joy I receive

From Progress over Perfection, Building a Sustainable

when featuring brands or working with a company I

Community, Transparency, and now Makers, each issue

truly believe in, well that’s just priceless.

and its theme has been a labor of love. My biggest sense of accomplishment comes from being able to

Ultimately we are all on this path together. We are all

promote small designers, brands, and makers who are

trying to create a better industry. Whether you’re a

changing this industry for the better.

maker, consumer, or just care about people and our planet, this issue is for you.

In this issue we’re getting to know the Makers and Artisans of the sustainable fashion world. But what

Thank you again for reading, I truly appreciate it. :)

exactly is a maker? In our eyes, makers are key to the sustainable fashion movement. They are the ones

With love,

who are actually making change. We oftentimes think

Lauren

about artisans and makers being in the same category but to me, a maker is also someone that is creating change. For example, a maker can be anyone involved in the sustainable fashion industry. They can be content creators (like our New Influencer series ), photographers, or even copywriters. In this issue we’ll discover who these makers are. From Tena of

Lauren Tanaka - Fortune

Thinking Threads who specializes in helping

Global Garbs founder

sustainable brands tell their story in a way that redefines the industry standards. Or Esme Buxton, a sustainable fashion photographer who uses her art as a way to show activism. We’re also highlighting some very interesting new apps and companies. One is supporting refugees through sewing classes and ultimately employment called RE:NEW Project, while REKA AFAB has built a new technology specifically for independent designers who place quality and small quantities at the forefront of their platform. Their virtual tailoring AI seems like the next big thing for small ecommerce designers (page 24). I also decided to throw my two cents in and wrote “For 20 (plus) years fast fashion has reigned the industry, let’s change the next 20 to SLOW fashion”, which is my take on why we need to switch over to how things used to be in the “olden” days of consumption. And of course, it wouldn’t be a fashion magazine without some of our latest sustainable obsessions, plus a mini gift guide and interview with Cayley Pater, the founder of our favorite multi-branded site, Made Trade.

COVER PHOTO BY: Esme Buxton Photography MODEL: Caitlin Marshall @_caitlinmarshall_ MUA: Krissy Glaister @luxbykristina Wearing: Vintage Inclined @vintageinclined

LIFESTYLE

ALLIE ANKLE PANTS

Sustainable

Sustainably made with botanic TENCEL™ fibers and, this easy fitting style is cut with a natural rise and elastic front that accentuates your waist, and is finished with a straight leg that exudes minimalist-modern appeal. The pull-on style creates a soft, loungewear feel, all while emulating a totally polished presence.

Obsessions

AVAILABLE AT NEUNOMADS.COM

COCOON JACKET This long, quilted cocoon jacket is as versatile as it is stylish. Entirely handmade with layers of butterysoft organic cotton and beautifully tailored to fit, charming white stitch patterns pop against its charcoal base. Layer it over your favorite dress, or pair it with jeans and a t-shirt to upgrade your casual look. AVAILABLE AT MADETRADE.COM

CRYOTHERAPY FACIAL This cryotherapy face mask in the form of a "pop" unlocks the power of ice through tightening skin, reducing inflammation, and minimizing the appearance of pores. Since the Beauty Pops come in powder form, there is no need to use preservatives. You just mix with water and freeze! The product is also paraben, alcohol, and cruelty-free. AVAILABLE AT LOVEANDPEBBLE.COM

AURORA MULE Designed to be disassembled and repurposed for a second life, your Aurora mules can be sent back to HILOS for complete circularity when you're ready to let them go. AVAILABLE AT HILOS.CO

ECOSLEEP LUXE HYBRID MATTRESS The EcoSleep Luxe Hybrid offers a thoroughly natural, more customizable way to sleep. Featuring a unique zippered top, the mattress can be customized by flipping a core of two latex foam layers.

SEDONA DOLMAN SLEEVE JUMPSUIT BLACK FOREST

RECYCLED BOTTLED SNEAKERS This eco-friendly shoe was created with a recycled rubber sole with a good propensity to keep the original shape. Lightweight, comfortable and breathable step by step for daily use. AVAILABLE ON URBANKISSED.COM

AVAILABLE ON ECOSLEEP.COM

This easy yet elegant pull-on jumpsuit features three quarter length dolman sleeves. The luxuriously thick and soft organic cotton doesn’t cling and skims your curves. This jumpsuit is also maternity and nursing friendly with a pull-down faux wrap bodice. Made from GOTS certified cotton and spandex AVAILABLE ON MADETRADE.COM

ESSENTIAL VINTAGE SWEATSHIRT DRESS Made with Organic Cotton in a Fair Trade Factory. No toxic chemicals and 81% less water used than conventional cotton: AVAILABLE ON WEARPACT.COM 11

LIFESTYLE

EAT. DRINK. SHOP. Consciously The best places to eat, drink, shop and visit curated by a sustainable founder. This month's edition is all about NYC and Sydney Sherman Arenas of Montie & Joie.

SHOP | Live Zero

Siizu in the Canal Street Market makes some of my favorite sustainable jewelry and other accessories. Almost every time I am in the area I swing by to see what new designs they have! Always unique and obviously sustainable I can never go wrong with Siizu.

Siizu

SHOP | Voz in SOHO. Voz is expensive but the kind of pieces you buy and keep for a lifetime. They are all about empowering women and I love their "VozWoman" stories.

EAT | Serra by Birreria in Eataly Flatiron. This restaurant is seasonal and sources their ingredients from the local Union Square Greenmarket (I also love this market!). They are always declious and the location changes its decor seasonly as well making the whole experience enjoyable. On the way out grab a coffee & treat from the Eataly market, it is one of the best coffees in the city!

VOZ

NEW YORK EDITION

LIFESTYLE

SHOP | Nadaam in the West Village. I heard about this company right when they started because of their commitment to sustainability––they work directly with herders in Mongolia and have a lot of information online about their practices. Their price point is also sustainable which doesn't hurt and their store had a really cool external display last time I was over there.

VISIT | The Shed/Edge in Hudson Yards. Lastly I recently went to the Hudson Yards Edge & Shed (again). The Edge is very touristy to be honest once you get to the views (although they are beautiful of course!) but the tour to the top was at our own pace and I learned a lot about how they are building the Hudson Yards with sustainability in mind. The Shed is always a treasure and one of my favorite NYC museums.

Tai Ping Shan Street

SHOP | Etérea in the East Village. Eatérea is a sustainable and ethical Tequila and Mezcal Cocktail Bar. Their small plates are all plant based with a bit of a Mexican twist. I have never had a bad drink or meal here!

Sydney Sherman Arenas is the CEO and Founder of The Etho, an online marketplace connecting conscious consumers with ethical brands and artisans. While working at The Etho, Sydney started Montie & Joie, a clothing and home goods brand she now runs with Terrell Sherman that supports artisans in GuatemalaVOZ and Kenya. Sydney is also a founding member of The Helm and actively invests in female entrepreneurs. Sydney's first business was Admin Boutique, which is still operating, linking administrative assistants to local start-ups, nonprofits and other clients in the Austin, Texas area.

EDUCATION

WHY SUPPORTING INDEPENDENT DESIGNERS IS THE KEY TO SUSTAINABILITY WITH REKA AFAB BY LAUREN TANAKA-FORTUNE 18

EDUCATION

he past two years have been some of the hardest times

especially for small fashion brands around the world. Independent designers were left to face very uncertain times, while big box online retailers continued to thrive even during the pandemic. It’s no real news that independent fashion designers and small businesses are where the heart of the fashion industry lies. Big brands constantly knock them off and also look to them for the next big idea or trend. This continues along the lines of sustainability as well.

Small brands are at the forefront of sustainability and understand the importance of building sustainable, small collections. To them waste is not only inefficient but can be considered a major cost. If there’s one good thing that came from the pandemic is that it gave everyone a chance to take a step back and look at what really matters. When it comes to sustainability and climate change, many fashion brands are now faced with new and difficult challenges to navigate. For many small brands it meant moving their entire selling channel to e-commerce and not relying as much on wholesale. Many brands chose to leave wholesale altogether in an attempt to increase their margins and focus on their end consumer rather than be beholden to any retailer. From cancelations of fashion week, to brands opting to create less seasons and collections, there has definitely been a shift in the way the industry is functioning. Hopefully this new way of creating is here to stay. The latest technology to hit the market is a new tech platform that is dedicated to promoting independent designers on a global scale. REKA AFAB is the first and only fashion tech platform with a patented AI virtual tailor which enables designers to create one-of-a-kind pieces or assist the customer in the fitting process of an existing size. In addition their capability to sell on a pre-order basis creates more flexibility for designers which in turn reduces their cost and waste. It’s not everyday you hear about a technology that could literally change the way we shop online. Customers can now avoid wondering if a size will fit them - especially if the designer happens to be in another country. This transformative way of shopping not only eliminates the hassle of returns or exchanges, but it also gives you more peace of mind when purchasing from designers overseas.

EDUCATION

By using their AI tailor and being able to easily communicate directly through the app, it's the first platform to connect customers directly to the

It’s now more than ever that we need to support emerging designers both domestically and abroad. The fashion industry needs a huge overthrow and

designer.

slow fashion is key to creating not only a more sustainable fashion future but helping to democratize an industry that has been dominated by a small group of corporations for decades.

Their mission to create an open communication channel while also bringing the newest technologies whether it’s an AI virtual tailor, giving customers the ability to make wish lists to share with friends, or even curating the latest fashion news under one platform is inherently changing the game. REKA AFAB is the first shopping platform to actually encourage brands to create less, and it feels as though the overall industry is beginning to slowly but surely change their ways as well.

Companies need to shift their business models to think similarly to REKA AFAB, which will ultimately help change the way we think about consuming fashion.

EDUCATION

RE:NEW PROJECT

CHANGING THE LIVES OF REFUGEES How Re:new Project is helping women resettle into Chicago

love going to work. And it’s mainly because of who I work

Once they graduate, we hire them to sew beautiful handmade products from up-cycled materials. No

with. Each morning, I walk into Re:new Project’s sewing studio and am greeted by warm embraces, laughter, and

amount of sewing experience is required to startwe encourage all to come as they are! The students come to us because they are in need of two things, community and a job.

a community of inspiring female refugee Artisans who collaborate together to make

But what they find is so much more than that- they find an empowering environment and a safe space

the world a better place.

It’s hard to imagine that these joyful, hardworking, kind women had such a heartbreaking journey to be where they are today. Each one has fled their home country due to persecution, war or violence, becoming one of the 20 million refugees there are around the globe at this moment. With little to no resources, they begin to sort out the fragments of their lives as they wait to either return home or be resettled in their new country.

to heal. The task of assimilating is daunting, yet those I work with press forward with harrowing determination. I’d love to introduce you to Za, an Artisan from Burma. Like most of us, she has many roles in her life. She is a daughter, a wife, a mother, a friend. She works hard at Re:new, cooks for her family, drives her daughters to school, cares for her elderly mother, all while creating a safe home for them to live in. Her desire for safety comes from fleeing violence in her home country, where uncertainty and chaos ruled. The peace of the country slipped away as political unrest rose.

There is something unique, special and healing about mending together pieces of fabric with your own two hands.

Of the 20 million refugees, only 5% are resettled in a new country. In the wake of trauma, they now need to set roots in a foreign country and learn a new language, new money system, new transit system, become accustomed to new foods, new education system, and a new skill without the support of friends or family. The experience of resettling is incredibly isolating, lonely, and can be difficult to connect to their new community.

Restoring what was once cast aside into something that has value does something to one’s soul and invigorates from the inside out.

It was out of seeing the need for community and learning a new skill in the refugee community that Re:new Project was born in the suburbs of Chicago. Re:new Project is a nonprofit organization that offers free sewing and English lessons to refugee women who have resettled in the Chicago area.

EDUCATION

Soon, the days of an open community were gone and suppression from the government set in. When the political unrest turned violent and their lives were on the line, Za took her family and fled

You can help refugee women feel welcomed and empowered as they make their new home in America.

to a neighboring country in hopes of safety.

You can donate, purchase handmade products, volunteer, support, pray, send words of encouragement. You can indeed make a difference in the lives of refugees!!

For two years, she lived with her husband and two daughters in a one room apartment, not knowing what their future looked like until they were chosen by the UN to be resettled in Chicago. Upon her arrival to the states, Za knew no one outside of her family but was quickly connected to a local church to learn English. While there, she was told of a place that welcomes refugee women and trains them for employment. Her first time walking into Re:new, she knew it was special. “ I was surrounded by women like me! It was the first time I didn't feel lonely.” She continued to say “Sewing is my peace. It calms me and encourages me. I had a sewing machine when I was little but we had to sell it for money. I missed it! I was happy to sew again at Re:new.” Josefina, an Artisan from Venezuela, told me “my sewing machine speaks to me. It helps me not to think about my problems. The machine is a friend to me, helps me focus. It is just me, my machine, and my creation.” With the staggering number of people around the world who are facing this crisis, it can feel like there is nothing to be done. But there is!

Kristi Zboncak, a Chicago suburb native, was exposed to different crises around the world such as poverty, modern day slavery in the fashion industry, and the growing number of refugees during her 3 years serving as an international missionary. Upon returning to the states, Kristi earned her B.A. in Sociology with a minor in Human Rights from Biola University and an M.A. in Humanitarian and Disaster Relief Leadership from Wheaton College. She has served as the Executive Director for Re:new Project since January 2020. For more information about refugees, please visit www.unhcr.org. To offer financial support or purchase from Re:new Project, please visit www.renewproject.org

EDUCATION

By Tena from Thinking Threads

hen a new brand reaches out to me, I always try to get them on a call. For many reasons really but among others, to understand what they struggle with. While I don’t keep a record of it, I’d say that at least 1 out of 3 times the person I’m talking with would say that their biggest struggle is to make people care. How can people care about where their clothes come from as much as we do? How can we make them care about things like worker’s rights or reducing fashion’s carbon footprint? How can we make them see what the problem is? It’s not just the brands I talk with. Many activists, researchers, and thinkers wonder the same. Heck, I wonder the same all the time! Caring isn’t a one-dimensional thing. It’s not a single feeling or a thought process, so don’t expect any easy answers. However, I’d like to propose an idea that could be helpful. I’d like to encourage you to put an emphasis on stories over facts. And I’ll explain why. But a quick note before this: I use the terms “sustainable fashion”, “ethical fashion”, and “slow fashion”, interchangeably. I am aware of the differences between them but for me: they should all come together. In other words, there’s no sustainable fashion without ethics and without slow production. The same goes the other way around. Ok, now that we cleared that out, we can continue.

Facts about facts If you glance over my Instagram profile, you’ll see me often sharing some fashion-related facts. For example, that about 80% of garment workers are women or that up to 20% of diamonds today come from places of conflict and serious human rights abuses. And many articles I write also include lots of fashion facts, be it about biodiversity, overconsumption, microplastics, or denim. So, don’t get me wrong, I’m not against facts at all. Yet, I am careful in how I use them. I don’t believe there is something like a pure fact. After all, facts are one representation of reality, and they always show what can be measured with standard measuring tools. I don’t believe that there’s such a thing as objective reality, a universal truth. What we usually call facts are statements about and interpretations of reality but not the whole reality. The most important thing to remember is that the numbers and percentages we can see are the only things we can measure. And our measuring tools change and depend on who is using them. I’ll give you an example. It has to do with the fact that the fashion industry accounts for about 10% of global carbon emissions. If you’ve been into sustainable fashion for a while, I bet you heard that one before. However, as Alden Wicker breaks it down in her insightful article for EcoCult, it all depends on which source or research we listen to. Other reports and studies show a different number: from 4.8% to 8% of global carbon emissions.

EDUCATION And McKinsey & Global Fashion Agenda came up with yet another number last year: fashion contributes to 4% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions. Alden explains that these reports also measure different things and define the fashion industry differently (for example, cotton production sometimes belongs to the fashion industry but sometimes counts as agriculture). She also claims, and I agree, that these different facts aren’t helpful in the times when we are trying to argue for better policies and regulations, and we should figure out how to better measure fashion’s environmental impact. It’s an interesting discussion on its own. But you can see 2 things from this example. The first one is that many things aren’t easy to measure and put into facts. Fashion is a complex industry, culture, history, art, philosophy, and much more. It’s not a simple thing to observe. And the second thing is about the truth.

All the facts I mentioned about the C02 emissions are equally true and false, depending on the report. That doesn’t mean we can’t use them but we need to use them with this in mind. But you can see 2 things from this example. The first one is that many things aren’t easy to measure and put into facts. Fashion is a complex industry, culture, history, art, philosophy, and much more. It’s not a simple thing to observe. And the second thing is about the truth. All the facts I mentioned about the C02 emissions are equally true and false, depending on the report. That doesn’t mean we can’t use them but we need to use them with this in mind. When I mention that the industry generates about 20% of the global wastewater, I don’t mean it as the ultimate truth. I wouldn’t be surprised to find some research that shows some other number, which is a reason why you should always link the resource to any such claim you use. But there’s still a reason why I use facts.

We still want facts though…

EDUCATION They are useful to bring context, give us an idea about an issue in question and make us aware of an issue in the first place. Before I got into sustainable fashion, I sort of knew that human rights abuses are happening. Most people, including me, have heard about sweatshops before. Such issues aren’t anything new to brands: remember Nike’s sweatshop scandal in the 1990s? Yet, I thought that these things are rare in fashion, they are only extremes. Learning that there are an estimated 40.3 million people are currently living in slavery taught me to think otherwise, and today I know that human rights abuse is a norm in the industry. I’ll come back to this shortly. What I want to say is that facts are useful tools for us to talk about an issue, and especially the scale of the issue. They can be a way to spread awareness, capture attention and even change someone’s mind. So to say that 80% of garment workers are women, allows us to to understand that fashion is a feminist issue and that, if we speak of fashion, we need to take gender into account. A fact about blood diamonds can (and should) open a conversation about ongoing (neo)colonialism in the industry. And to say that our clothes contribute to over a third (35%) of microplastics in the oceans is a way of talking about how everything is interconnected in this world. Those are just some possibilities really. Facts have a role and can be effective. That is if they don’t come alone.

Why facts can be contraproductive

Last year, when the pandemic first hit and brands canceled their orders, they were collectively over $40 billion worth of wages to the garment workers. I don’t know about you, but I have difficulties imagining this amount of money. Yet, what this number means is millions of workers left out without any money, protection, or savings, in the middle of a global health crisis. I’m glad to see that the #PayUp campaign was largely successful and most brands eventually committed to paying their debt. Yet, here’s where a lot of people can feel paralyzed: it is about millions of garment workers. We simply feel difficulties acting against something so big. We may assume that the bigger the number is, the more people will care. And while it’s important to show the magnitude of events like canceled orders, studies show the opposite: numbers fail to trigger the emotion necessary to motivate action. We humans have evolved in a way where we care about the things that are in front of us. When you meet someone in a difficult position, you might start to care and do something about it. But when there’s yet another person and another, and then thousands and millions of people who are in the same difficult position, it’s hard to process this information. Not because we are bad or lack a moral sense. It is because of psychophysical numbing: a term for a phenomenon where we start to value lifeless, as the number of suffering people grows. We can care about an individual with a face, name, history, and personality. But, as one study expresses: numerical representations of human lives do not necessarily convey the importance of those lives. Statistics and numbers tell us a lot, but they don’t tell us about the people behind them.

If you ever felt overwhelmed by fashion and its enormous impact, you’ll understand what I’m about to say. And trust me, I feel overwhelmed by fashion all the time. Whether fashion produces 3.9 billion tons or 2.1 billion tonnes of CO2e (yes, there’s “tons” and “tonnes”), it’s a lot. Most of us can’t really imagine what this really means. While some comparisons and images are useful and may help us imagine, they are not quite enough. For example, it’s interesting to know that we lose three square meters of ice per ton of CO2 emitted. So, we lose a lot of ice because of the fashion industry alone. Once again, it tells us about the scale (and the urgency) of the problem but it still feels far, doesn’t it? It can feel even more alienating when we talk about the direct human impact of fashion.

EDUCATION

The same can be said for endangered animals, melting icebergs, or shrinking rainforests. The big numbers and facts don’t really communicate the value and consequences of the beings and ecosystems. They are easier to dismiss, and can actually make us feel powerless. That is where the power of stories lies.

The power of stories Earlier I mentioned how I sort of knew that slavery and human rights abuse happens in fashion but thought it was a rare thing. I didn’t quite care about it, I was sure it wasn’t a big deal. Until I had one of the most important calls in my life. About 5 years ago, I was a part of a small NGO, and we somehow got a chance to have a Skype call with Nasreen Sheikh. Nasreen is a survivor of modern slavery, a social entrepreneur, and an activist. She is also a person who changed my life. In the 60-or-so-minutes of the call, Nasreen shared her story of how she worked in a factory as a child, her escape, and her advocacy for others since. In case you’re interested, I recommend watching her TedTalk. It wasn’t the fact that there are over 40 million people in slavery that made me see the problem, it was Nasreen. But even more: she made me care. After the call, I clearly remember looking at my fast fashion clothes and wondering if she or girls like her made them.

Not long after this call, I was in an H&M store and I remember nervously holding a dress I liked. I walked out of that store empty-handed because I just couldn’t risk buying something that was made in sweat and blood. I understand now that I probably couldn’t truly care about millions of people but I could care about those I met. And this is sometimes enough. For me, it was enough to start re-evaluating my fashion (and other) choices and learn more because of one story. When you think about it, it makes sense. Storytelling is how people have communicated for millennia. Telling stories makes us human. Stories carry lessons, emotions, histories, and relationships. We have always been telling stories, we just invented different ways of doing so. For this reason, whether you’re an ethical brand, an activist, teacher, parent, artist, or anyone who cares about fashion and wants others to care: find a way to tell stories. Use the facts when you need to show a scale or make a further argument but use stories to communicate why. This is also the reason why I believe in the power of clothes in particular: our clothes carry the stories and they connect to us intimately. Anyone who wears clothes can understand that the issues you’d like to talk about are a part of their life. But more about that some other time. Original article published here: https://www.thinking-threads.com/post/heres-why-sustainable-fashion-needs-morestories-less-facts

About Tena: I'm an anthropologist, activist, and ethical fashion writer based in Brussels, Belgium. I'm endlessly curious and restless, and always looking to challenge the way we think about fashion, style, and sustainability. Through my writing business, Thinking Threads, I work with small to medium ethical brands, helping them redefine the standards of the fashion industry, one word at a time. You can catch up with me daily on Instagram or Twitter, or visit my website Thinking Threads to see more.

OPINION

For twenty (plus) years fast fashion has reigned the industry, let’s change the next twenty to SLOW fashion. By Lauren Tanaka - Fortune

OPINION

o you remember a time when you had to wait 4-6 weeks for a piece of clothing? Probably not. That’s because we live in a see it, want it, buy it type of lifestyle

(yes, thank you Ariana Grande). The idea of waiting longer than a week to receive something is just not the way society shops anymore. Back in the day, brands would only create 4-6 seasons a year and oftentimes when you went to the Mall (remember those?) you would actually see the same clothing if you happened to visit more than once a month because *gasp, they only had 2-4 deliveries in the past month with new styles. In fact, I remember a time before the H&M’s and Forever 21’s, there were only a few retailers that were for younger/junior audiences. One of those (now pretty much defunct) retailers was called Wet Seal. Fast fashion retailers receive on average 7,000

During college, I worked at this pioneer in the fast fashion industry and at most they had 4-6 deliveries a month. In fact, I remember being excited when new shipments would actually arrive because it meant that we had fresh merchandise to display. Keep in mind this is over twenty years ago (yes I’m dating myself), but at

new items a week, compared to decades ago when it was revolutionary for brands to add hundreds (Zara) With the rise of fast fashion giants and our addiction to Amazon and convenience, consumers just do not prioritize waiting.

the time I didn’t realize that this was the start of the fast fashion era. As short of a period of my life as it was that I worked there, I do pinpoint this time of my life as the slippery slope towards becoming addicted to fast fashion and cheap clothing. I remember the clearance racks being $10 and being able to use my 20% off employee discount to buy as many Bongo jeans as my heart desired. I also remember that the price for these jeans was around $24-$30 which is absolutely insane to think about considering the price for jeans in many fast fashion retailers today is the same or even less than it was twenty years ago. If that’s not a major red flag in of itself, I don't even know what else to say.

The importance of slow and artisanal fashion When one thinks of artisanal or slow fashion, it’s not just about the fact that you are oftentimes helping small communities of artisans in developing countries, but you are also helping smaller, slow fashion brands who are doing good in the world to run a sustainable and ethical business. Artisanal, slow fashion will never be big business for capitalistic greed. Instead it will sustain growth, development, and opportunities for small villages around the world - especially women of color who are the primary artisans.

Now, it’s all about the new, new, new. . 37

OPINION

Not only do you begin to think of clothing differently when you understand that real hands and real women have made them, but artisan fashion is inherently sustainable due to the slow

When you buy quality over quantity, you’ll buy items that actually last and will take pride in the fact that you’ve had an article of clothing for so long.

fashion aspects. Slow fashion which is by definition the opposite of fast fashion, actually comes from the slow food movement. Kate Fletcher of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion coined the term when she saw that the fashion industry needed a shift similar to the food industry. Slow fashion takes into consideration all of the processes and resources to create clothing and is really a movement as well in terms of slowing down the entire industry model. Fast fashion “disrupted” the typical fashion calendar which led to overconsumption while slow fashion pushes for everyone, not only the brand’s production itself, but consumers to slow down their purchasing behavior. It advocates for buying fewer quality pieces that will last a lifetime. At the end of the day we have just got to get off this more is better attitude. By buying fewer and oftentimes more expensive items you’ll actually treasure what’s in your closet for years or even decades.

With online shopping and the way technology has truly changed the way we consume it’s no surprise that the latest app we’ve recently discovered called REKA AFAB is bringing together indie designers to promote slow, oneof-a-kind fashion that is made to order. Their business model is the epitome of what we need in order to start changing our consumption behavior. We cannot go down this destructive path much longer, but at the same time we as consumers will obviously continue to purchase. While many of us cannot afford to buy some of the slow fashion designers and sustainable brands out there, we can all adapt this type of behavior whether we’re shopping at our local thrift store or the trendiest sustainable fashion boutique. It really boils down to creating a mental shift in our consumption. Also, advocating for larger brands to start adapting to some of these changes as well could be the start of creating some real change in this industry. At the end of the day if the customer wants it and demands it, brands will have no choice but to change their ways.

INTERVIEWS

We’ve all had those days where we stare into our closet with the feeling of “I have nothing to wear”, yet our closet is packed full of clothing. Every single person goes through this mentality every so often and it’s not necessarily because we’ve outgrown our wardrobes. Being a sustainable shopper is hard enough and obviously the most sustainable thing to do is to not buy more clothing but sometimes it’s nice to have someone not only help guide you with new purchases but also be able to help reimagine your existing closet. Enter Andrea Cameron of Fashion Your Life. Andrea’s work and philosophy is to help her clients dress in their most authentic style

HI ANDREA! TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND WHO ARE YOU AS A PERSON AND WHAT MAKES YOU YOU? I was born and raised in Nova Scotia and started making my way across the country at the age of 18 when I moved to Montreal to go to college for Fashion Design. I still remember stepping off the train, in a city where I knew noone, with a suitcase, the address of my school and $350 dollars in hand. I didn’t know where I was sleeping that night but it all worked out. Over the years I have lived and worked in Montreal, Winnipeg and Vancouver and I currently reside on Vancouver Island with my husband and our cat Gary. Exploration in all its forms is very important to me. From a very young age I explored a large variety of creative outlets, including singing and acting, as well as painting and product

development and of course the textile arts and styling outfits. Creativity was my escape from the world and a natural way for me to express my sensitive self. As an empath, I have this ability to see the big picture and patterns of our humanity, which can be overwhelming and cause undue stress. It wasn’t until after a Breast Cancer diagnosis at 39 with subsequent treatment that I learned how to truly show up for myself. That dark night of my soul showed me that I had to create my own sense of self and safety so that I could do the work I am meant to do in the world for others. I do this through deep healing practices, which have been the perfect addition to the extensive self development work I have done over my adult years. I bring my

knowledge and skills of the physical, performance and healing arts into everything I do as a stylist and designer.

HOW DID YOU GET INTO STYLING? While it’s something I have always done for myself and people in my life who wanted my help, it wasn’t until I was in a business program where it was recommended I narrow my focus within my business to something I knew really well. Styling was the thing I both enjoyed and was naturally good at. That said, my business as it is today has come full circle and my focus is on helping people understand their style, which is completely holistic and not limited to clothing and fashion.

HOW DID YOU GET INTO SUSTAINABILITY AND STYLING? DID YOU HAVE ANY TYPE OF “AH-HA” MOMENT? I believe it’s one of those things I was born with. I have what is called an ‘aesthetic eye’, which really just means the ability to see beauty everywhere. Sustainability just makes common sense to me but I am sure it is rooted in growing up with a ‘lack mentality’ and learning how to be resourceful in order to survive. Today sustainability can be all too close to greenwashing, especially in marketing efforts and especially in fashion.

WHAT’S THE BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION ABOUT SUSTAINABLE FASHION AND/OR STYLING? The biggest misconception is when individuals believe that everything you own needs to be sustainably made, bought from a sustainable brand or made from a sustainable fabric. While this would be absolutely amazing and I would love for us to get there some day, it puts unnecessary pressure on everyone to conform to this unattainable ideal that we simply don’t all have the resources for.

This has created a certain narrative about what it means to have a sustainable style, causing people to shy away from it instead of embracing the idea. Sustainability when it comes to your clothing choices can look so many different ways. Instead of pressuring yourself to live up to some sort of unattainable made up expectation of what it means to be sustainable with your fashion and style, simply start where you are and use what you have. This is one of the most sustainable practices anyone can do. That and buying less, like way way less.

To be truly sustainable you really need to look at the big picture and find balance with everything you are doing. It is not limited to just one area such as buying local or fair trade, we need to be looking at our household habits, our personal behaviours and how quickly we cycle through natural resources. It also doesn’t mean feeling guilty about shopping at Wal-Mart or taking a long shower one day, it’s about finding a balance that works for your needs and ideally makes a difference for all our fellow humans.

WHAT/WHO INSPIRES YOU? Inspiration is all around me and shows up in the most unexpected ways, so I’m not inspired by any one thing in particular. That said, us human beings are certainly a fascinating bunch and I find human behaviour to be rather fascinating. I love getting to know other people, whether that’s through interaction, conversation or simply watching and listening to them. Unless someone is a complete a**hole, I don’t have time or energy to waste on people that lack basic human decency.

HOW DO YOU WORK WITH YOUR CLIENTS? My mission with Fashion Your Life is to help people dramatically reduce their clothing purchases within a lifetime, while simultaneously helping them express their most authentic selves. When it comes to finding new items to buy I work in one of two ways, either creating a detailed list of items for the person based on our work together and/or bringing them into the retail environments they are most comfortable with to help them navigate that space with a different lens.

It depends largely on how much support they need with the actual shopping and of course the capacity with which we are working together. Many of my clients prefer thrift shopping and we certainly have a lot of fun doing that. Some clients are comfortable with shopping online so I’ll do a search based on their list of items and give them links to choose from. The brands I have built relationships with I will recommend to specific clients once I know it is the right match for my client, otherwise there is no point.

WHAT’S BEEN THE BIGGEST WIN AND BIGGEST CHALLENGE YOU’VE HAD IN YOUR CAREER THUS FAR? Everytime I have the opportunity to work with a new client, that is a big win for me. It means that one more person will get to learn more about themselves, their style and how they truly want to show up in the world. The biggest challenge I have had is with bringing my business online and learning how to speak their language so they know what I do and the problems I solve. It’s so much easier to simply talk to a person. I think I‘ve got it now but it sure is an ever evolving process being in business.

WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND TO SOMEONE WHO IS JUST STARTING OUT ON THEIR PERSONAL STYLE JOURNEY? Take your time and enjoy the process of discovering who you are and what you enjoy. Your style will evolve as you learn and change, enjoy the process. We have to wear clothing everyday so why not use it as the communication tool that it is, that includes expressing who you are with what you wear, because you are doing this whether you are doing it intentionally or not. While it certainly can be, it doesn’t have to be a costly endeavor, many of the most stylish people throughout history hardly had a dime to their name. Regardless of what you find or how you find it, it’s all about finding yourself throughout the process and having fun along the way.

WHAT ARE THREE BASIC TIPS YOU CAN RECOMMEND FOR THE AVERAGE PERSON TO SHOP MORE SUSTAINABLY?

Three basic tips to shop more sustainably: 1 Buy less stuff! If you currently buy a lot of stuff, start to get really picky about what you bring home. Make sure it checks off all your boxes; color, fit, fabric, style, etc. If you are unsure about one thing, leave it. If it is perfect in every way except it needs a basic alteration, buy it and have it altered cause you’ll likely have it for a really long time. If it checks all the boxes but it would be a stretch to afford, put it back on the rack and see how you feel about it in 72 hours. If your heart says yes go back to buy it, if it’s gone it’s not meant to be. 2. Buy from a local and independently owned business. Not only does this reduce your carbon footprint, it keeps money in your local economy. It is important to factor in where they source their products from, the more local, fair trade or truly sustainable the better. 3. If you have a good grasp on your style and have the budget and time, consider having something custom made. Many people don’t think about this because they assume it’ll be really expensive or not worth the time. For some people this is not an option, but for many others it will be surprisingly affordable, especially when you consider you are getting exactly what you want. You get to have a unique experience and the finished product is something you will enjoy having for a very long time. Plus, you are supporting an independent business owner and you don’t have to go to a bunch of different places looking for it. It requires an up front investment but in the long run saves you a lot of time and money.

Name: Andrea Cameron Website: www.fashionyourlife.ca

Andrea is the Director of Style & Design at Fashion Your Life. With over 20 years experience working behind the scenes in the fashion industry all across Canada, she always felt like she had to dress a certain way to fit it. It wasn’t until she left the industry that she was able to uncover her very own Stand Out Style. Today she helps leaders and changemakers Align With Style so they can show up with ease, express their most authentic self and make the impact their heart and soul desires.

Ethically Elevated Products Artistry above efficiency. Fair wages above profits. Sustainability above mass production. Quality craftsmanship above mindless consumption. And transparency above everything. Meet the founder of Made Trade, a marketplace making a positive impact every time you shop

INTERVIEWS

o you ever wonder how some founders just know what type of business they want to start? We are truly fascinated by the each founder's story and how they came up with the idea for their business. Made Trade is no different in that founder Cayley Pater just knew she had to start an ethical marketplace based on the fact that one did not exist. Her background in linguistics and foreign language, as well as living outside of the US teaching English around the world definitely shaped who she is today and certainly makes sense from her passion to tell artisan stories and supporting fair trade makers. Along with her partner and cofounder Andy, they set out to create the ultimate ethical marketplace which showcases beautiful handmade product that has been thoroughly vetted to ensure all artisans are paid fairly and made with minimal environmental impact. Made Trade is truly one of those companies that you can actually feel good about shopping at because every purchase makes a positive impact for not only independent labels but the makers as well.

GG: TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND CP: I grew up in a very globallyminded, lively household with my younger brother, my parents, and my grandma. I spent most of my childhood in North Carolina, where my parents decided to move from Southern California when I was about ten years old. Neither of my parents are from the South, but I definitely consider North Carolina home, and my partner, Andy, and I actually recently moved back early this year to the area we both grew up in. Thinking about my childhood, I feel like I’ve been pretty equally influenced by both my parents — my Dad spent his career as a very empathetic psychiatric nurse with a strong passion for travel and music, and my mom has always been a go-getter with an entrepreneurial spirit in literally everything she does. She completely changed her career five times when I was kid, which I definitely think had a big impact on my perspective on building a career and having a willingness to take risks. Ever since I was a teenager, I’ve had a strong desire to make meaningful change in the

world, which manifested in a variety of ways, but once I was introduced to the world of fair trade and the power of business in the artisan sector, I knew that was the path I wanted to take. I went to college at UNC Chapel Hill, where I joined the Fair Trade Club within the first month or so of school. My passion for conscious consumerism really blossomed then, and that’s also where I met my eventual partner, Andy, also co-founder of Made Trade. I spent all of college studying Linguistics and foreign languages — I loved learning about the world through language and spent most of my time studying Hindi and Urdu, Spanish, German, and Farsi. After college, I lived outside the U.S. for about five years on and off, teaching English at a high school in Austria, studying in India and working with artisans in rural Rajasthan, and eventually going to graduate school for women’s and gender studies in Hungary and Spain. My connection to these places and the communities I lived in has definitely shaped who I am today in so many ways, especially my passion for sharing stories of artisans and makers through handcrafted products. 49

INTERVIEWS GG: WHAT'S THE BACKSTORY ON HOW AND WHY YOU STARTED MADE TRADE? CP: In the years before I came up with the idea for Made Trade, I had worked with artisans in India several years prior and at the time was working for a small nonprofit with refugee artisans in the West Bank. A lot of my work with the organization was with tatreez embroidery — a traditional crossstitch technique that’s been passed down for generations primarily through women at home. As I was helping to build these two small fair trade brands, Darzah and Zeki Learning, almost every weekend I was traveling to pop-ups and events with my husband, Andy, to not only sell these embroidered shoes and handbags to help create sustainable jobs for these artisans, but to share the amazing story behind these products and share a piece of the artisans’ culture and Palestinian heritage through those stories. Over the course of working at these pop-ups for almost four years, I kept meeting so many amazing entrepreneurs with small brands, small batch product lines, committed to ethical sourcing and sustainable design. .

I kept asking myself and eventually asking others, “why isn’t there a place online where I can find all of these beautiful, intentionally designed, handmade products with such amazing stories? Why is it so hard to shop with transparency?” Of course I knew that as a small brand, it’s incredibly hard (and very expensive!) to get your products out there in front of people, which is also a really big reason I knew there was a need for Made Trade. Not only to help people discover these wonderful, unique products, but to help these small, independent businesses grow and increase their positive impact around the world. Selfishly, I wanted this store to exist so that I could shop there! And I knew that as someone working in fair trade, knowing what to look for, that if it’s hard for me to find these products, it’s got to be even harder for other people So I brought the idea up to Andy, who had been working in advertising as a digital producer for over ten years at that point, and we eventually decided we

needed to just go for it and try to make it happen. GG: WHAT MAKES MADE TRADE A SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL COMPANY? CP: Made Trade is a womanowned, family run company and we exclusively sell products that are ethically made. This means that every single product we carry is thoroughly vetted by our team to ensure we know how it was made, where the materials came from, and how the product is making a positive impact for both people and the planet. This means we make sure artisans and employees are paid a fair wage for their labor and materials are responsibly sourced to have minimal environmental impact. Our mission is to make it easy for people to shop with confidence and with transparency so that our customers can discover beautifully designed products that create real positive change in the world. We are also, proudly, a Climate Neutral Certified brand. This means that we have been working towards carbon

"I kept asking myself and eventually asking others, “why isn’t there a place online where I can find all of these beautiful, intentionally designed, handmade products with such amazing stories? Why is it so hard to shop with transparency?”

neutrality by measuring and offsetting our 2020 emissions and reducing our 2021 emissions. We offset our entire 2020 footprint by purchasing carbon credits to fund climate change solutions supporting three projects that are focused on conserving forest ecosystems in Indonesia, Brazil, and the US. As of April 2021, we offset 100% of carbon emissions for our entire company, including the carbon footprint to make all products ordered on Made Trade as well as shipping your order to your door.

GG: HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT SOURCING/FINDING BRANDS TO FEATURE? CP: Luckily, I started Made Trade with a lot of wonderful connections to fair trade brands in the U.S. as well as local makers in Portland, OR, where we originally founded the company in 2018. Our sourcing is made up of both us reaching out to brands we love to see if they’d like to partner with us as well as brands reaching out to us. Sometimes we have conversations with brands for six months before we start working together, as the vetting process can take quite a bit of time depending on where the brand works, whether or not they have third party certifications throughout their supply chain, or for a variety of other reasons because it’s very important we’re fully aligned before we decided to work with a brand. We vet each partner to ensure responsible sourcing, which to us means paying fair and livable wages to their makers and employees for their work, paying fair prices for the materials used to make their products, as well as supporting ecological sustainability through their production process and supply chain wherever possible. GG: WE LOVE HEARING ABOUT WHAT GOES ON BEHIND-THE-SCENES, CAN YOU GIVE US A PEEK INTO YOUR DAILY LIFE? CP: There is no typical day! We have a small but mighty team so

a lot of my day is spent working within our different departments of the company, from working on our curated assortment to vetting new brand partners, supporting our marketing team and of course all kinds of admin work. Luckily, I’m a natural multi-tasker, so I really thrive jumping around to different areas of the business all the time, which is pretty much necessary on any given day. We’re a fully remote team, so virtual check-ins happen everyday, but we try to be as meeting-light as possible. Andy and I work from our home office, so during those video calls, there will often be a cat or two wandering in the background. We also recently finished our photo studio, so I’ve been spending time there — we’ve been taking new product and lifestyle shots as we gear up for holiday! GG: RUNNING A BUSINESS IS TOUGH LET ALONE AN ETHICAL ONE! WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST STRUGGLE AND BIGGEST WIN AS AN ENTREPRENEUR? CP: The biggest challenge has probably been navigating a young and growing business throughout the COVID-19 pandemic. We launched Made Trade in 2018, so by the time the pandemic hit, we were just over a year old. 2020 was a very stressful year all around, but thankfully we’ve grown and have been able to help many of

our partners stay in business throughout very unpredictable and difficult periods. The biggest win has just been Made Trade’s success up to this point. My mission with Made Trade has always been to provide a larger platform for small businesses and artisans to sell their beautiful goods and to share their amazing stories. Our hope is to continue to grow Made Trade's reach to be able to serve more small businesses, small-batch manufacturers and artisan cooperatives making amazing products, so they, in turn, can grow their own businesses within their communities and increase their positive impact for both people and the planet. GG: WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR SOMEONE WANTING TO PURSUE A SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS? CP: I think the best advice is to find a need in the world, something that you personally need in your life, and pursue it! Also, find a community of like minded people who are passionate about sustainability, too. I know that we could not be where we are without our community of artisan groups, makers, entrepreneurs and supporters who have helped us over the last few years. Visit www.madetrade.com @Made.Trade 51

LIFESTYLE

Cayley's

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE With the holidays right around the corner, why not gift your loved ones with one of Cayley's favorite products. Not only are they beautifully designed with quality craftsmanship, but rest assured that they value sustainable and ethical manufacturing processes above all. By choosing products that are place people and the planet before profits you know you're making an impact.

The Perfect Backpack

Why I love it: Large enough to carry my everyday essentials with a compact and chic shape that goes with everything, I’m constantly grabbing this bag — whether I’m headed to my favorite coffee shop, our local farmers market, or a weekend getaway.

Tiradia Cork Signature Backpack • Made of natural cork • Dyed with natural, vegetable dyes • PETA certified vegan • Handcrafted in Aveiro, Portugal

Statement Earrings Nisolo Upcycled Brass Open Drop Earrings • Upcycled brushed brass • Handmade by artisans in Kenya

Why I love it These cute little bowls come in so handy! Each one features a delicate spout, perfect for mixing and pouring anything you're whipping up in the kitchen. While this bowl is a great gift for all my matcha-loving friends, I’m giving them for any latte lover and home cook as well!

Cozy Slide Slippers Kyrgies Women's Wool Slipper Slides • Hand-felted wool • Vegetable tanned leather sole • Handmade in Kyrgyzstan

Why I love it: I wear these cozy slippers all year long — they keep my feet warm in winter and cool in summer. These are also my favorite gift to give because you don’t know you need a good pair of slippers until you have a great pair of slippers!

Giddy up Jenni Earle Giddy Up Bandana • 100% USA grown cotton • Hand-dyed • Handmade in Winston-Salem, NC

Why I love it These earrings are simple, yet they make a statement. I love that you can dress them up or down, they somehow are the perfect accessory for any person’s style.

Mix + Pour Moonshine Design Matcha Stoneware Bowl • Handcrafted stoneware • Made in Houston, TX

Why I love it: I love this vibrant gold to cheer up any outfit with a simple tie of an accessory. Plus, I love the tiny cursive messages that Jenni Earle adds to all her bandanas, like a little secret between designer and wearer. This one says “giddy up.” 53

INTERVIEWS

ave you ever wondered how brands can use 3D printing to become less wasteful? HILOS’ mission to create an on-demand manufacturing process might be the answer we’ve all been looking for. By utilizing this innovative technology along with reverse engineering the supply chain, they are reimagining what recyclability and product end of life looks like for the answer for both the consumer and brand.

HI GAIA! TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND... WHAT MAKES YOU YOU? WHERE DID YOU GROW UP, ETC. I grew up in Irvine, CA, known as the safest city in America, in a neighborhood where you can only paint your house one of 5 approved colors. As a natural creative and artist, I didn’t understand what I was missing my entire life until I moved to San Francisco, a city full of color, where I went to school for fashion design and was immersed in diverse colors all around. That’s where my love of discovery began exploring new cities, walking lively streets, enjoying eras of architecture - traveling is one of my most loved passions. Next to that is music, preferably live. Pre-pandemic, I was lucky enough to combine the two, traveling from one European city to the next based on what show was playing where.

GAIA GILADI, FOUNDER HILOS

I miss that kind of spontaneity. When it comes to the day-to-day, I’m really just your average Josephina binging Squid Games, spending too much on brunch with good company that makes it worthwhile, and waiting for Thursday to roll around to see what the queens have been up to on RuPaul’s Drag Race.

INTERVIEWS TELL US ABOUT YOUR BRAND AND HOW IT CAME ABOUT? DID YOU HAVE AN “AH-HA” TYPE MOMENT? DO YOU HAVE A BACKGROUND IN FASHION? WHAT’S YOUR STORY? HILOS is the sum of a team who questioned the way shoes were made in order to start shaping the future we hope to see. My co-founder, Elias approached me with the concept “3D printing made-to-order shoes” in March of 2019 and in hindsight, what he was doing was questioning an entire industry and the process they’ve worked to put in place for over a century. The processes that led to overproduction, wasteful making, unethical treatment of workers, the list goes on. At the time, I was designing children swear for a fast fashion private label company and just beginning on my personal journey of what we now know as sustainable fashion (those clearly didn’t mesh). 3D printing intrigued me, especially since I had always been a media-mixer, prone to use non-conventional materials in my designs. I was hooked and so ready to take on the challenge of making 3D printing fashionable. Our partnership was organic - we were both so intrigued by this new way of making shoes that the conversation kept flowing and eventually led up to each of us moving to Portland, OR from our perspective cities to start building full time.

WHAT MAKES HILOS AN ETHICAL/SUSTAINABLE BRAND?

Everything we do is centered around sustainability, from sourcing materials to recycling our products. We’ve done this from the very start of the business, we never wanted to cut corners. 3D printing allows us to go farther in sustainability than we ever have before. It’s what allows us to make our shoes without waste, using only the material that’s needed; make every pair to order, eliminating overproduction; utilize a single component for the platform, allowing for disassembly and recycling at end-of-life; and save 85% of the water that’s used in traditional shoemaking.

My co-founder, Elias approached me with the concept “3D printing made-toorder shoes” in March of 2019 and in hindsight, what he was doing was questioning an entire industry and the process they’ve worked to put in place for over a century.

INTERVIEWS TELL US ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY THUS FAR? HIGHS/LOWS, WINS/CHALLENGES You really can’t underestimate the high of the highs and the low of the lows when owning a business! One of our highest highs was winning Pitchfest at TechFest NW, one of the biggest tech conferences in the PNW. It came after the extremely difficult Spring, Summer, and Fall of 2020 and was the start of a streak of wins - some notable ones were winning the Glossy award for Best Breakthrough Start-up, getting accepted into Techstars, successfully launching our first product to market, and finally raising our 1.8M seed round. One of our big challenges in between all those wins was the simple fact that we were growing. A mentor of mine wisely told me that every time your business grows, it breaks. The systems you put in place no longer work and you have to restructure the way you do things over and over again. It was hard to navigate going from a company of 3 to 4, then 4 to 6, and now that we’re 10, I have the awareness to know that the processes are meant to change when you grow and that’s okay.

WALK US THROUGH THE PRODUCTION PROCESS. HOW DID THE DISCOVERY OF THIS TECHNOLOGY COME ABOUT? WHAT DID THIS PROCESS LOOK LIKE? Our production process starts when a customer orders a pair of HILOS. Once an order comes in, the digital model of that pair gets sent to be 3D printed and then hydro-dipped to look like wood. Our in-house makers assemble and finish the leather uppers by hand, then package and ship them off to their new home.

The discovery of the use of 3D printing technology for footwear came about on a trip to New York Fashion Tech Week, where Elias was first introduced to the made-to-order magic that 3D printing has to offer. It was what inspired us to start HILOS in the first place and has always been part of our process.

Balance is something I’m continuously having to fine tune and refine, but I love my life and truly feel like the luckiest person alive.

GIVE US A PEEK INTO YOUR DAILY LIFE? WHAT’S A TYPICAL DAY LIKE FOR YOU?

Right now I feel most inspired by the creatives who’ve made something that truly only exists because of their unique life experiences. Recently I met the founders of Unknown Union, a fashion brand that makes clothes and textiles based on unique stories. I was moved to tears listening to them walk us through each piece, telling us about an ancient tribe that’s long been forgotten only to be resurrected in this beautiful garment, done to such precision and honor.

Every day is so different, and I love it that way. There are a few things that stay stagnant like making my coffee before anything and checking emails off my to-do list before the sun rises, but everything else changes daily. This week was especially creative and fulfilling as I had the pleasure of working with a talented bunch on a photoshoot for a new style, worked on our Fall/Winter website refresh, and sketched up ideas for a new Spring sandal. In the evenings I do my best to move my body in one way or another, but many times I end up at a new restaurant or bar with good friends or collapsing in bed from exhaustion.

WHAT INSPIRES YOU? ANY BRANDS, ACTIVISTS, ETC?

This week I went to a Sofar Sounds show where one of the artists, Kingsley (yes, look her up!) was selling a recipe book that paired a cocktail with a story about her life as well as one of her original songs - how personal and unique is that? I love seeing people lean into themselves and not be afraid to do something completely different.

INTERVIEWS WHAT DO YOU THINK WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE? My personal philosophy is that it’s important to first understand that you’re never going to be perfect. This helps rid the overwhelming fear that you’ll fail, because as the society that we have come to be, it’s not sustainable to live a completely ‘sustainable’ lifestyle. For me it’s about awareness and education. It comes down to understanding that when you empty your recycling bin, just because you did your due diligence of separating the trash from the recyclables doesn’t mean those things are guaranteed to get recycled. We have no control over that, but something we do have control over is reusing what we can. Can your children use that cardboard as an art project? Can you use that glass bottle as a watering can or vase? Is there an online neighborhood group (i.e. Buy Nothing, Nextdoor, etc) that would want to reuse your recyclables?

In the end, it’s really just about giving it that extra thought.

WWW.HILOS.CO @HILOS_SHOES

INTERVIEWS Have you ever wondered how many swatch samples, strikes-off and fabric remnants don’t make the cut every season? Even if you don’t work in fashion, you know the answer: a lot. KRNACH rescues what's left to create a collection of items that are here for the long run, not for just a season. By upcycling the pre-production and product development fabrics that go into designing a collection, KRNACH creates one of a kind accessories from sample fabric that would otherwise be thrown away.

TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. WHAT MAKES YOU, YOU?

Meet the Makers: How KRNACH uses preproduction samples to create one of a kind accessories 62

I am originally from a small town in northeastern Ohio called Massillon. I’ve always had an interest in art thanks to my mom who was always crafting, painting and at 79 years old continues to cross stitch. My first big purchase as a young adult was a sewing machine. I loved altering clothes and making them unique. At 16 I went thrifting for the first time and got hooked for life. It’s my first choice when I want to add something new to my wardrobe. I decided to study fashion design at Kent State University and had the privilege to study abroad for a semester in Florence, Italy. I kind of knew before I left that I wanted to stay in Italy (I mean who wouldn’t). I had a head start as I studied the language for 2 years before arriving in Italy. During the semester in Florence I decided to apply to Polimoda, an International Fashion School, where after an interview I was accepted to start at the sophomore level. So I basically did half of my studies at KSU and half at Polimoda. After graduation I did various internships in Florence and soon after got my first job as a Junior Designer for an accessories brand. My professional career has continued to grow over the years here in Italy.

INTERVIEW

TELL US ABOUT YOUR BRAND AND HOW IT CAME ABOUT. DID YOU HAVE AN “AHHA” TYPE MOMENT? I totally had an “ah-ha” moment! I’ve been working as a designer for over 13 years and sample many types of fabric each season. As I was cleaning up the office, which for a designer means archiving what you want to keep and throwing out what you don’t. One design resource that really adds up at the end of a collection is fabric samples. There is no real reason to keep them as the next season the textile manufacturers come around with a new collection of fabrics, just like a fashion brand designs a Spring/Summer collection so do they.

The first big challenge I came across was the pandemic. Unfortunately it took away a few opportunities that came my way right off the bat. I was chosen to be a featured brand for a really big ecommerce company in March and as I sent away my first sale that was to be photographed and spotlighted on their channel Covid hit. Everything got postponed...then just cancelled. The pandemic has also cancelled trade shows that I was accepted to be in last December as well. But I move forward, keep a positive outlook and am happy to say that at the end of October I will be presenting my brand in a design show, in Rome!

It was as I was throwing these 8.5 x 11 inch size pieces of material away, an idea suddenly came to me. I could make something out of them, I didn’t know what, but these small pieces of fabric were too innovative and beautiful to not be used. So I began my prototype process and I came up with my first style, the zipper pouch. Then threw around name ideas and my project started to take form and the journey began.

It can be limiting, but I’ve found myself to be the most creative when trying to find a winning design concept for this less than talked about part of fashion’s textile waste. TELL US ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY THUS FAR? HIGHS/LOWS, WINS/CHALLENGES The journey has been a huge learning experience, a bit scary, and really exciting all at the same time! All the steps involved in creating a brand is no easy task, this I knew from working in the industry. But designing to fit my personal aesthetic, creating a website, the hours spent researching ways to present my line to the public; for me was totally worth it. I finally felt ready to launch and did so in January of 2020.

WALK US THROUGH THE PRODUCTION PROCESS. HOW DO YOU ENSURE EVERYTHING IS MADE SUSTAINABLY/ETHICALLY? Well the materials I use come from leftover strikeoffs, scraps or defective textiles straight from the manufacturers themselves. A lot of these materials are also the creative designs of the textile mill that might not have gone well during the sales campaign. Usually they are too innovative, costly or just not what the brand is looking for. These are included in my fabric stash and are usually the most interesting ones to work with. The zipper closures I use on my smaller bags are also upcycled from leftover salesman samples that would just get thrown away at the end of each season. It can be limiting, but I’ve found myself to be the most creative when trying to find a winning design concept for this less than talked about part of fashion’s textile waste.

INTERVIEWS Then after years of designing for other brands, I started to feel incomplete, unsatisfied; working to meet someone else's design aesthetic. I love what I do and hope the future permits KRNACH to become my full-time career!

WHAT INSPIRES YOU? I get inspired by all types of artforms, whether it be

Well the materials I use come from leftover strikeoffs, scraps or defective textiles straight from the manufacturers themselves. A lot of these materials are also the creative designs of the textile mill that might not have gone well during the sales campaign. Usually they are too innovative, costly or just not what the brand is looking for. These are included in my fabric stash and are usually the most interesting ones to work with. The zipper closures I use on my smaller bags are also upcycled from leftover salesman samples that would just get thrown away at the end of each season. It can be limiting, but I’ve found myself to be the most creative when trying to find a winning design concept for this less than talked about part of fashion’s textile waste. From the beginning of making the first sample, to ending up with the finished product all happens in my home studio at the moment. I have invaded the house with fabrics, let’s just say my partner is a saint. I personally design, cut and sew each piece. They are all one of a kind and are thoroughly checked as I’ve turned into a perfectionist. As a designer within the fashion industry, I think I have seen so many of the flaws that get overlooked in the production process that I have unconsciously become super aware and I want to give my products extra special love and care when making them.

painting, sculpture, needle work, the list goes on. I really enjoy following the very talented textile artist, Vanessa Barragão. She creates the most amazing works of art by hand and out of textile waste! Her wall hangings are truly inspiring. Also the Los Angeles based brand Carleen is super creative and I love the style. Inspired by americana and quilting they produce their garments in small batches in L.A., showing that a fashion brand can reduce their carbon footprint while making wonderful additions to your wardrobe.

WHAT DO YOU THINK WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE? Research a brand or the item of interest that you want to buy before you purchase. There are so many great apps, magazines and influencers that are dedicated to transparency and communicate to you on how to live a sustainable lifestyle. Right now I think the consumer has to take the first step and do their homework, because sustainable fashion (unfortunately) is not just around the corner. With high hopes that in the future the process of making fashion sustainably will permit shopping to become just a pastime and not a damaging habit.

NAME: AMANDA BETH KRNACH WEBSITE: WWW.KRNACH.COM INSTAGRAM: KRNACH_OFFICIAL

GIVE US A PEEK INTO YOUR DAILY LIFE? WHAT’S A TYPICAL DAY LIKE FOR YOU? I’d love to say I wake up and concentrate fully on KRNACH, but for now that is not the reality. I am currently building my small business while working a full-time senior design job. I dedicate all of my evenings and weekends to design, sew and manage my brand. It takes dedication, passion and hard work but I truly feel that this is my path. A decade ago I would have never thought that I would be designing my own collection and starting my own brand.

INTERVIEWS Ever since I entered the University, I became passionate about human rights and fairness. My parents repeatedly told me that I was stubborn and perhaps that's what drove me to activism. After I moved to Belgium, I continued being a part of some organisations but I became more interested in looking at the bigger picture. Studying anthropology changed how I perceived the world. I'm very thankful for it. I always say that I have a degree in overthinking stuff.

HI TENA! TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. WHAT MAKES YOU YOU? WHERE DID YOU GROW UP, ETC. The written word was always my favourite form of art and expression. I was that nerdy kid who would spend most of the summer break reading books and sketching her characters. I even got a BA in Comparative Literature, which nobody ever really understood why!

Have you ever wondered how sustainable fashion brands are able to convey their sustainability standards and ethics in such a way that not only tells a story but inspires you to support their mission? There’s a chance that the brand has worked with Tena of Thinking Threads. Tena is an anthropologist, activist, ethical fashion writer, activist, and specializes in helping sustainable businesses redefine the standards of the fashion industry one word at a time. When we think about “makers” in the industry we oftentimes only think about the designers or people working in the factory to actually make a physical item, but everyone from photographers to writers like Tena are making a difference in this industry.

HI TENA! TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. WHAT MAKES YOU YOU? WHERE DID YOU GROW UP, ETC. I was born in a typical Balkan family, meaning that I grew up surrounded by a rich interfusion of different cultures, ethnicities, and religions. But it also means that I grew up with injustice and memories of the war that I was born in and that my family was running away from. There was a constant tension between beauty and pain, and everyone was finding their own way to carry that. Eventually, so did I.

However, as a curious person, social research became my wonderland. I first studied sociology and then anthropology. I quickly understood that there's nothing more fascinating than human society and cultures. After graduating, I worked in the market and later in digital communication research for close to 5 years. Most of the time, I truly loved my work. The rest of the time I tried to ignore the fact that my clients were big corporations that often went against my sense for justice or rights. Some 5-6 years ago, as a part of one NGO, I had a chance to talk with Nasreen Sheikh. Nasreen is a survivor of modern slavery, a social entrepreneur, and an activist. I'm not exaggerating when I say that this was the most transformative 60 minutes of my life.

Nasreen worked in a garment factory as a child and has experienced the worst from the industry. It is because of her that I started being interested in fashion, and soon started to advocate for slowing it down. Fast forward to the spring of 2020, when I lost all of my clients. Like many people all over the world, I suddenly had no income nor savings to rely on. After 2 months of panic and desperate attempts to find new projects, I decided that maybe this was the moment to try something completely new. As we all know, the year 2020 was everything but a normal year, so what's the point in trying the normal stuff! This is how I discovered content writing. I learned that I can combine my love for writing, passion for research, and belief that fashion can be better.

HOW DO YOU CONSIDER WHO YOU’LL WORK WITH? IS IT DIFFICULT FOR YOU TO DETERMINE WHO IS ACTUALLY SUSTAINABLE / ETHICAL VS GREENWASHING? It can be really difficult to know who's truly trying their best to be as sustainable and ethical as possible. The short answer to this is that I ask a lot of questions. It's a part of my job to be nosy.

I WON'T EVEN DISCUSS THE COMPOSITION OF THEIR FABRICS AND OTHER MATERIALS IF [A BRAND] CAN'T PROVE TO ME THAT THEY ARE RESPECTING THE PEOPLE THEY WORK WITH. THIS IS MY FIRM PRINCIPLE WHICH I'M NOT WILLING TO COMPROMISE ON.

However, I don't expect perfection. Most of my clients are small to medium businesses and I learned quickly that they truly cannot know or do everything. Many of them would love to have a completely clean supply chain and control everything, from growing the crops to the garment afterlife. But they don't have the economic, political, nor network power to do so. This is why I focus first on their business ethics. Do they know who makes their clothes? And are they doing everything they can to ensure the wellbeing of the people who make their business possible? I won't even discuss the composition of their fabrics and other materials if [a brand] can't prove to me that they are respecting the people they work with. This is my firm principle which I'm not willing to compromise on.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY THUS FAR? HIGHS/LOWS, WINS/CHALLENGES Every day feels like a fresh new rollercoaster of ups and downs! Not that I'm a big fan of rollercoasters in real life but somehow, I'm fine with this ride. The people I work with, my clients, give me so much hope. They are truly finding ways to make the industry better for everyone. They might not have a big reach and they may not do everything well. Yet the passion and determination to make clothes ethically and well, despite the harsh reality of the industry, is what keeps me going. Being able to help them is so rewarding. Many of them appreciate my work too. I

recently got an email from a fairly new client, in which she wrote how much she loves my work and that she's happy that she finally found somebody who understands her brand and voice. Messages like that give me high for days! Unfortunately, I had many bad experiences, usually from people who are trying to negotiate my prices down. Yet, perhaps my lowest point is a client who never paid my invoices and owes me a significant amount of money. I had to get a debt collector involved and it's quite an emotionally-draining experience for me. Luckily, I work with so many amazing people that keep reminding me that this is all worth it!

WALK US THROUGH A TYPICAL DAY FOR YOU... It took me a while to realize that I'm not really a morning person. Lucky for me, most of my clients are in the UK or US, so I'm never really late for anything! Yet, I have quite an elaborate and slow morning routine. I take the time to stretch, make myself a generous breakfast, have my tea, read the news or a couple of pages from a book, and listen to 15-20 min of a podcast episode as I'm getting ready. On most days, I wear makeup and dress up nicely. I take my work seriously and this helps me get in the right mindset. After almost 2 hours, I make myself a big cup of coffee and go to my home office. On some days, I feel especially inspired and I'll spend the first hour or so drafting ideas. On other days, when I feel that things are going to be slower, I first deal with my emails and messages. I tend to be the most productive between 11 am and 1 pm and after 3 or 4 pm. When I can, I try to organize my day around that. On most days, I take the time to cook a proper meal, though I have to admit- I eat it behind my desk! For a while, I tried to develop a habit of taking a walk break during the day but that didn't work out. Instead, I usually end my workday with a walk outside. Sometimes, I'll have some evening meetings, especially with my US-based clients. And sometimes I'll just need to finish some editing in the evening. Once I'm finally finished with the work, I'll have a quick break and then I'll get my workout. This is when my evening routine starts, which includes a shower and a longer skincare routine. I love ending my day by reading a book, usually with a candle by my side.

WHAT INSPIRES YOU? ANY BRANDS, ACTIVISTS, ETC? WHO HAS BEEN YOUR FAVORITE BRAND TO WORK WITH?

WHAT DO YOU THINK WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE?

I truly mean it when I say that my clients inspire me. I mostly work directly with the founders or small business owners, and their passion and belief in fashion as a force for good is giving me so much hope. The fashion industry is challenging to say the least. Every day, I see a new greenwashing campaign, learn more about its impact on the environment, or discover yet another injustice. It's too easy to doubt oneself and the work we do. Yet, some people I work with are proving that it is possible to change the business of fashion and do things differently. They remind me that it is all worth it.

A lot! I often see these discussions around collective vs. individual actions. However, they usually get stuck on dualism, an idea that collective and individuals are the opposite sides of a spectrum or that they exclude one another.

Some of the brands that inspire me are GNGR Bees, Savannah Morrow the Label, Lora Gene, Meüne, and Les Izmoor. I'm proud to say that I have collaborated in some way with all of them and they are some of my favourite brands to work with.

The thing is that the collective is individual and the other way around. One doesn't happen without the other. While I believe and advocate for a structural and systemic change, the one that happens on a political, economic, and social level, I truly think that individual action means a lot. I'd say that one of the most important things one can do is to curate your online space. Choose who gets access to your attention and time. It means unfollowing the companies and individuals that encourage us only to consume. It also means unsubscribing from newsletters we don't want to see. Instead of all of that, we can look for a community of people who will support us to learn and change in the direction we want to. Being surrounded by content that feels right to you and your own goals will make your sustainability efforts so much easier.

About Tena I'm an anthropologist, activist, and ethical fashion writer based in Brussels, Belgium. I'm endlessly curious and restless, and always looking to challenge the way we think about fashion, style, and sustainability. Through my writing business, Thinking Threads, I work with small to medium ethical brands, helping them redefine the standards of the fashion industry, one word at a time.

Meet the Makers:

INTERVIEWS

When one thinks about sustainability and candles, not much comes to mind when thinking about how to create a sustainable candle and why some waxes are better than others. But when you realize that most brands use harmful ingredients such as petroleum or palm oil, you begin to have the same “ah-ha” type moment that you had when learning about the fashion industry. Mass produced candle companies mainly use paraffin which is ultimately petroleum based. In our final maker feature, we’re talking with the founder of LAIT, Jenn Rhee who gives us some insight as to why she started a traditional hand poured candle making company even during an era where you can get a candle delivered straight to your door in an instant.

TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND, WHAT MAKES YOU YOU? WHERE DID YOU GROW UP? I was born and raised in Southern California by my Korean-born family. My happiest moments of childhood were taking camping road trips, playing at the beach, lots of family gatherings and being raised by my grandma

and relatives while both my parents worked their small businesses. I was also able to explore my creativity through arts and crafts, always creating anything from clay sculptures to handmade soaps then gift them to my friends and family. As a Korean-American girl growing up, I was introverted and shy at school yet had a naturally curious personality and found appreciation by being surrounded by nature and loving animals for as long as I remember. I think I embraced French culture easily because my own family and I still carried some of our own Korean traditions. The French’s Joie de Vivre way of life started from early childhood, admiring the art, fashion, and food, and also being surrounded by her own mother’s large collection of vintage French furniture and art books.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR BRAND AND HOW IT CAME ABOUT? DID YOU HAVE AN “AH-HA” TYPE MOMENT? DO YOU HAVE A BACKGROUND IN FASHION? WHAT’S YOUR STORY? Fashion and art was something that had been instilled in me since I was born. My mother loved and appreciated fashion and beauty. She used to oil-paint, turn on classical music every morning, and also remember spending a lot of time in boutiques and malls. She collected art and fashion books so although we didn’t travel abroad much, this was my escape. As I got older, I started understanding why she and my Grandma loved going to malls so much. I think it’s the visual stimulation of being surrounded by beautifully made clothing and beauty in a room full of mostly women who want to look and feel good. It might have been a sense that she felt like she, too, belonged, although she was a Korean, minimally speaking English mother at the time. When my mom had her designer boutique store, I would take trips to Downtown and watch her interact with her wholesale buyers.

She merchandised her shop and even created a lounge and coffee area so friends and customers can visit. I explored the option of pursuing fashion design because I loved to create but also had a practical personality. I wanted to understand how to get art and translate it to sales. I also loved merchandising, displaying, and putting things together to tell a story. After graduating from FIDM with a degree in Merchandising & Marketing, I moved to Los Angeles with my younger brother to pursue a career in the fashion industry. It wasn’t until later during my 12 years in fashion, that I started to create larger batches of candles for events and weddings because of my brother starting his own weddings and events company. I started selling candles to customers at maker’s events. Talking about scents that I created to

strangers challenged my introverted personality. It was this exciting “new” thing I was organically doing when I wasn’t doing my corporate job. I never had a plan to quit fashion and do LAIT as a full-time business. While I loved being in fashion because of my relationships, learning the consumer business, and developed many skills through the fashion brands that I had worked for. When I started feeling the pressure of “moving up the corporate ladder”, I found therapy in candle-making and scent-making. After many years at my last position, the company laid me off and re-structured the department. It honestly felt like a bad break up but I am also deeply rooted in the notion of chance. I took it like a sign from the universe to take a risk and try LAIT full time without having a cushion. It’s been almost 5 years I’ve been focused on growing LAIT and although I am nowhere near my new goals of the business, I am proud to be here today as a selffunded, small business owner.

WHAT MAKES LAIT AN ETHICAL/SUSTAINABLE BRAND? The brand of LAIT centers around the beauty of nature. Scent inspiration is born from water, air, and all the natural elements and focuses on continuing the tradition of past-time candle making by using minimally processed ingredients. Natural soy wax is used with no harmful additives and most importantly, petroleum-free like most commercially made paraffin wax candles. Packaging and materials are American-made as much as possible. Most candles are made-to-order, which keeps them fresh and minimizes wastage.

WE ARE CURRENTLY LIVING IN A TECHNOLOGY-ADVANCED AGE WHERE TIME IS LUXURY. IT’S CHALLENGING TO CONTINUE OLD-TRADITIONAL CANDLE MAKING WHEN AMAZON CAN BRING A CANDLE TO YOUR DOOR.

LAIT is centered around the ethos of nature and the appreciation for Earth. Every candle is made from sustainable soy wax. This means, the wax is petroleum (paraffin) - free which means there is no palm oil or synthetic wax. While there are more tests being made on what the best sustainable waxes are, there is evidence that paraffin waxes are most harmful to the planet and the body. There is no animal testing on LAIT products and thoroughly ensure that the fragrance oils purchased from reputable makers are not animal tested as well. Fragrance oils are free of phthalates and body safe. Therefore, you can easily repurpose LAIT candle glasses by washing off any wax remnants with warm soap water and recycle or repurpose the glasses. LAIT minimizes wastage and carbon footprint by sourcing American-made goods but with the exception of some supplies. Most of the candles and diffusers are made-to-order, which reduces wastage and over consumption of materials.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY THUS FAR? HIGHS/LOWS, WINS/CHALLENGES I also will not pretend that I made LAIT all by myself. It truly takes a village to run your own business because something important to me was being grateful to have a community of people around me who truly support LAIT. I currently do most of the production, from blending scents to tying the bow to the box. Working with natural soy wax is extremely challenging because the slightest change in temperature, even the batches, fragrance oils / essential oils, all can change the chemistry of a candle. It takes constant research and development which takes time. We are currently living in a technology-advanced age where time is luxury. It’s challenging to continue oldtraditional candle making when Amazon can bring a candle to your door.

I listen to a lot of audiobooks and podcasts because I am constantly pouring candles and doing other production work. I love listening to podcasts like How I Built This, the Glossary, and The Daily. I also love listening to selfhelp, women's small business podcasts too. I try to slow down during the weekends to relax and recharge my inspiration. I am passionate about enjoying good food, being in good company with my friends and family. I have some home-workout routines throughout the week and als started to learn how to golf this year. Moving my body keeps my mind active too.

WALK US THROUGH THE PRODUCTION PROCESS. WHAT DID THIS PROCESS LOOK LIKE? WHAT MAKES IT SUSTAINABLE/ETHICAL?

The majority of my business is custom-candlemaking where I work closely with brands and designers to create co-branded candles. I often feel overstretched with deliverables to move the business with my online shop as well as be present for all my clients. However, I am still learning so much and love doing both.

GIVE US A PEEK INTO YOUR DAILY LIFE? WHAT’S A TYPICAL DAY LIKE FOR YOU? Everyday is different but each day starts off with a morning ritual of stretching, meditation and making myself an iced latte or matcha. I answer emails, check statuses of supplies, and most importantly, pour candles a few times a week. I make several calls to my local vendors, arrange pickups, drop offs and sure enough, the day flies by.

Most of my candles are made to order which minimizes waste and over consumption of materials. It’s important to be precise when measuring waxes and oils so you make exactly what you need. I am going to create a video on this soon so stay tuned.

WHAT INSPIRES YOU? ANY BRANDS, ACTIVISTS, ETC? I’m inspired by people with passion and purpose. I love those who have respect for the planet and who balance the art of living and enjoying everyday life. I also love people who genuinely support the talent and beauty of others. Gina Stovall is one that advocates for everyday sustainability - she is the founder of https://twodaysoff.com/ , a beautifully made carbon-neutral clothing brand, ethically sourced and made in Los Angeles. Her minimal aesthetic-design, appreciation for nature and fondness for enjoying the simple moments of everyday life is something I find so relaxing and genuine. Not to mention, we are both Virgos. https://reweavela.com/pages/about-us Founded by Julie Benniardi and Debbie Ouyang sources discarded luxury textile swatches from interior design showrooms and repurposes them into home furniture and women’s fashion. They create beautiful pieces inspired by architecture and also collaborate with local designers and communities.

https://www.thecled.com/ - Founded by Seulye Jo and creating colorful handmade jewelry pieces using discarded glass and metals here in Los Angeles. I love her knowledge of sustainability, designs and have been collaborating on an upcoming sustainable Candle Collection with CLED and SHIPPE.

WHAT DO YOU THINK WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE? I don't think there's any step by step life manual to live a more sustainable lifestyle. Our world is changing and more and more research is being done to figure out ways to help this planet. I do think the first step to live sustainably is having awareness of our everyday consumption of objects, food and routine. For example, plastic is one of the most harmful materials to our health and planet. Using everyday household products like non-toxic cleaning supplies, refillable glass bottles, and purchasing in bulk to reduce unnecessary packaging waste are easy transitions to being more mindful to our planet. When it comes to fashion, try to avoid fast fashion styles and companies where you know you will wear it only a few times and avoid materials that are not biodegradable. Purchasing second hand items, researching and learning about the companies you are purchasing from, and just buying less overall are all healthy practices. Make time to educate yourself about climate change and this doesn't have to be a dreadful and depressing topic. Knowledge sparks change. It's also easy to feel overwhelmed that you're not able to change this entire planet but that mindset will eventually fade.

INTERVIEWS

INTERVIEWS TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. I grew up as a creator. I used to write stories on my dad's computer, draw little characters and outfit ideas or make movies with my brother using a hairdryer as the camera. Growing up in South London and Cheltenham, UK, I was given a lot of freedom to explore who I was. In my 20’s I traveled and lived in different parts of the world, like Sydney and Berlin. I truly believe that experiencing different cultures and different ways of living has helped me to be a more empathetic person, which influences my work as a photographer. I would say I’ve always been a bit of a pain in the ass! From as early as I can remember I wanted to know the answers to the tough questions. When I was 6, I wrote a note to the tooth fairy to confirm the existence of God. My poor parents didn’t know how to respond. Then when I was 12, I staged a protest against reading The Hobbit in class. Not for any political reason, I just found it really boring. When I was in high school, I wrote a petition against the strict enforcement of our school uniform (they made us lift up our trousers to check the colour of our socks, which felt invasive) and got over 200 kids to sign. The petition stopped the ridiculous checks but put me in a bad light with my teachers for the rest of the year. I’ve always wanted to help make the world a better place, albeit sometimes naively.

HOW DID YOU GET INTO PHOTOGRAPHY?

My dad bought a Nikon DSLR in 2006 when they were just coming out. One day we were visiting the beach and he taught me how to use it on auto-mode. I fell in love! I was able to capture a dog chasing a flock of birds and, according to my dad, my framing was pretty good. He said he was impressed with how naturally I understood the basics of capturing an image. It makes sense, as my dad is a photographer and his dad was a photographer too, so it definitely runs in the family. But it wasn’t until I met my aunt's partner, Joanne, when I was 16, that it all changed for me. She is a professional landscape photographer in Arizona and she sort of took me under her wing and became my mentor.

For the next few years I would visit her out in the desert and we would travel around Arizona, Southern California and Utah capturing the wildlife and landscape. Those trips were some of my fondest memories as a teenager. I submitted some photos we had taken together to a few competitions and ended up winning Gloucestershire’s Young Photographer of the Year in 2009. That was sort of confirmation to me that I was able to do this. It wasn’t until many years later that I found the confidence to photograph people and turn this hobby into a career.

“BEING A SUSTAINABLE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER FEELS LIKE A RADICAL ACT IN ITSELF.”

WHEN WAS IT THAT YOU DECIDED YOU WANTED TO FOCUS ON SUSTAINABILITY AND ACTIVISM IN YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY? I’ve always been passionate about doing the right thing and haven’t shied away from being vocal when I’ve been confronted by injustices. But it’s been a slow burn getting to the place I am now. I think it really started when I became vegetarian at 18 and started to understand how corrupt the meat industry is. That lead me to understand about climate change and how much of a threat it really is. Then, at university in London, I would attend rallies for various causes, where I became more aware of the activism space. But it wasn’t until I discovered Extinction Rebellion that I felt like I could actually make a difference. They needed people to document the protests, which suited me as I’m more comfortable behind a camera than in front of it! I’m passionate about fashion photography because I love the creativity that goes into a fashion story. However, through Extinction Rebellion and listening to activists such as Aja Barber and Gina Martin, I soon learnt how detrimental the fashion industry is to the future of our planet. I morally can’t make a career that profits from the exploitation of our resources and others. Working with sustainable, vintage or slow fashion brands has a more wholesome feel to it because we’re all trying to make the fashion industry a better place for the planet and those in the supply chain who so desperately need people to advocate for them.

Being a sustainable fashion photographer feels like a radical act in itself.

HOW HAS THIS DECISION AFFECTED YOUR BUSINESS? It’s been overwhelmingly positive. Because I am working for something I believe in, I can find all this energy to create! Being really specific in the area of the fashion industry I want to work in helps clients know what to expect, which means I’m getting to work with some amazingly talented and passionate people.

I know that some brands will find it off putting that I am vocal about activism, but that just means we weren’t meant to work together. What is meant for you will appear to you! The hardest part is knowing where the line for sustainability lies. Does a company who uses only organic cotton but pays their garment workers below minimum wage class as sustainable or should we expect more? I think the sustainable fashion industry is still trying to figure out those boundaries and I’m excited to see how the movement evolves over time.

WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR BIGGEST WINS AND BIGGEST CHALLENGES WHEN IT COMES TO RUNNING A SUSTAINABLE PHOTOGRAPHY BUSINESS? Some of my biggest wins include selling prints to support a local Black Lives Matter charity, deciding to offset my carbon emissions (because I travel often for work) and getting together with a group of activists to challenge H&M on their greenwashing campaign. But obviously, there are huge challenges too.

WHAT / WHO INSPIRES YOU? My biggest inspiration is often my community. People who are taking a stand, locally. I’m also really inspired by photographers such as Sophia Baboolal, Ramona Rosales and Mutua Matheka. Basically anyone who is creating from the heart and isn’t afraid to put themselves deep in their work.

Photography equipment is inherently bad for the environment as it is made from a lot of plastic and uses lithium ion batteries. So trying to make my business more sustainable in that regard is my next step. There are some great companies offering more sustainable photography options, such as The Sustainable Darkroom or Paper Shoot. I look forward to seeing what Canon will do to be more sustainable in the near future, as that’s my camera of choice! Some of my biggest wins include selling prints to support a local Black Lives Matter charity, deciding to offset my carbon emissions (because I travel often for work) and getting together with a group of activists to challenge H&M on their greenwashing campaign. But obviously, there are huge challenges too. Photography equipment is inherently bad for the environment as it is made from a lot of plastic and uses lithium ion batteries. So trying to make my business more sustainable in that regard is my next step. There are some great companies offering more sustainable photography options, such as The Sustainable Darkroom or Paper Shoot. I look forward to seeing what Canon will do to be more sustainable in the near future, as that’s my camera of choice!

“I MORALLY CAN’T MAKE A CAREER THAT PROFITS FROM THE EXPLOITATION OF OUR RESOURCES AND OTHERS. WORKING WITH SUSTAINABLE, VINTAGE OR SLOW FASHION BRANDS HAS A MORE WHOLESOME FEEL TO IT BECAUSE WE’RE ALL TRYING TO MAKE THE FASHION INDUSTRY A BETTER PLACE FOR THE PLANET AND THOSE IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN WHO SO DESPERATELY NEED PEOPLE TO ADVOCATE FOR THEM.”

INTERVIEWS GIVE US A BEHIND THE SCENES LOOK AT THE H&M DEMONSTRATION THAT RECEIVED NATIONAL RECOGNITION. HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT? I was walking past the shops in the town where I live one day and noticed this huge, pink window display inside the window of H&M. I stopped to take a look and noticed it was all about young activists saving the planet. My first reaction was, “oh that’s so cool!” but then my logical brain set in and I remembered how many items of clothing H&M sell and how poorly they treat their garment workers. It didn’t add up; how could a company who is one of the biggest players in the destruction of the planet shout about saving the planet? The irony was almost funny! So I took a photo and shared it to my instagram stories, calling out H&M for their greenwashing. My friend and fellow activist, Tolmeia, saw my post and decided we had to do something about it. So we organised a sit-in with 2 other activists, Jake and Fiona. In all honesty, we were nervous and unsure of what to expect, but we did it anyway!

The protest was small but impactful. People stopped to watch Tolmeia and Fiona and ask questions. It wasn’t until the next day when we shared the protest online that it really took off. Gina Martin shared our news which meant it was seen by over 100k people and got picked up by national news outlets. The best thing to come from all of this has been the fact H&M took down their display the day after and our protest inspired people from all over the world to do something similar.

FAVORITE SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? ANY FAVORITE CAMPAIGNS/JOBS YOU’VE WORKED ON?

I love what brands like Maison Cleo, Benjamin Fox and Bellanude are doing in the made-to-order space. They are showing that sustainable doesn’t have to mean itchy fabrics and earthy tones! Also the huge resurgence with vintage fashion and how independent, online retailers such as Vintage Inclined are making the experience of shopping a personal and bespoke service. My favourite campaigns are always the ones I can do with my friends! I have a few friends who model for me so being able to work with them is such a fun experience. I recently took a couple of my friends down to the river at sunrise to capture them in the water. We were completely alone and the light was amazing so we decided to skinny dip! Moments like that are so memorable!

ANYTHING ELSE YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE? I think many people still find sustainable fashion completely unattainable. So I want to say; do the best you can and then a little bit more. There is always more you can do to live sustainably and the more you try, the more options open up to you. But ultimately, we need to hold corporations accountable for their actions against the planet and the best way we, as individuals, can help is by choosing where we spend our money. Apps like Good On You are a great resource for finding sustainable brands that are similar to your fast fashion favourites.

Esme Buxton www.esmebuxton.com Email: esmebuxtom@outlook.com

THE New

INFLUENCER

In a reoccurring section called "the new influencer" we highlight different content creators + founders to learn how they got started in the sustainable space. In a world full of fast fashion, it's a breath of fresh air to meet, follow and shop from women who are actually making a difference in the world of over consumption.

Meet Tiffany, full time content creator, mother, photographer and co-owner of Almu an online sustainable store selling pre-loved treasures.

INTERVIEWS

TIFFANY ALEXANDER @Tiffanyalex_ www.almu.store

HI TIFFANY! TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. WHAT MAKES YOU, YOU? I was born and raised in the busy streets of NYC. The Bronx to be exact. Somehow I always found a way to connect with nature. Since I was a teenager, I was always fond of the outdoors. I learned to love and admire the essence of what the earth provides each and every one of us. Throughout my journey through adolescenthood & adulthood, I began to fall in love with photography. I’d capture images of my surroundings, the urban jungle & the delicate occasions of insects & animals that crossed my path. 4 years ago, I began taking self portraits as a way to express my journey living a sustainable lifestyle & it’s been my passion project for the long run!

NOW TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR BUSINESS (OR JOB/CAREER) AND YOUR LIFE TODAY. DID YOU HAVE AN “AH-HA” TYPE MOMENT WHEN STARTING YOUR BUSINESS? 5 years ago, I began implementing ways to incorporate a healthier lifestyle. I was in need to lead myself in the right path mentally, physically, emotionally & spiritually. As I took the holistic approach to my wellness journey, I began to see improvement in my overall health.

Moving forward, my wellness journey tied to my interests in advocating for sustainability. The connection between wellness and sustainability became a huge part of my lifestyle over the years. Over time, my “ah-ha” moment was when I realized sustainability is not all about buying eco-friendly products, thrifting, recycling or bringing your reusables to the market. There’s more to that. Throughout my journey, I’ve learned that sustainability involves all important aspects such as social, economic and environmental issues.

This is why it’s important to put forth individual & collective actions by holding bigger companies accountable to make systemic changes.

WHAT DO YOU FIND MOST INSPIRING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY? The challenges I come across in order to grow. It inspires me to make changes and put in the work within my community to make the world a better place!

We need to realize most companies' absence of authority puts the planet at risk for more problems we’ll face in the future. - Tiffany Alexander

INTERVIEWS WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT WHEN IT COMES TO EITHER BUILDING YOUR BRAND OR SOMETHING IN LIFE YOU HAVE ACCOMPLISHED? As a runner, my personal and biggest accomplishment was completing the Sandia crest Half Marathon in ABQ, New Mexico. The training process took a minimum of 14 weeks! This was an opportunity for me and my family to see our travel destination from another perspective & to face the challenge of running 13.1 miles! As the result of training, commitment & self control, I was overjoyed at the accomplishment I completed that day. Looking back to when I stopped running track in High School due to unfortunate circumstances, I’d go back and say: you can do anything you put your mind to, stay strong and stay positive! Adding on to my list of accomplishments as a full time content creator, mother, photographer and small business owner, I’ve become a heavy set multi-tasker! I do it all for my son. My family & the many generations to come. His future matters and all the work I do depends on it! Along my journey, I’ve worked with incredible brands who are putting forth sustainable efforts to better the planet, and collaborated with amazing likeminded individuals who inspire me to be a better advocate and woman!

WHAT’S ONE THING YOU FEEL THAT WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE?

As individuals, we need to stop trying to be perfect! Every one of us has unique needs and circumstances & we shouldn’t shame others for still buying fast fashion. The average person doesn't have the financial means to live a more sustainable lifestyle.

“We need to realize most companies' absence of authority puts the planet at risk for more problems we’ll face in the future. This is why we need to work collectively to demand change. This can start by voting with our dollars & stay informed about the current issues we face today

Moving forward, I encourage others to use your voice, persuade others on how to advocate for a better world, call, write, send emails to people in government that represent you, local or in state, be informed. You can do this by listening to podcasts, reading books or watching documentaries, purchases from small businesses & vote with your dollars! We need to spend money on companies that support important causes concerning the environment and the society as a whole!

ANYTHING ELSE YOU'D LIKE TO SHARE? Yes! I co-own an online sustainable goods store named Almu by my partner and I. It's an online sustainable store selling pre-loved treasures with selections ranging from vintage, modern clothing, shoes, accessories and home decor. All items are carefully curated one of a kind pieces & are sourced throughout the southwest. Our intention is to keep as much clothing as we can away from the landfill and to lessen our footprint on the planet!

Visit us online at www.almu.store or connect with us on social media @almu.store!

MEET Kara Fabella A Filipina-American ethical fashion advocate, digital creator, and wardrobe stylist based in San Francisco. She is best known for her take on bold colors with elevated, effortless looks—mixing vintage pieces with ethical, inclusive, and/or BIPOC owned brands. Kara strives to balance her imperfect journey of being a conscious consumer while still finding joy in the cultural force that fashion can have on movements and people. Kara also hosts the IGTV Series, Living In COLOR(ISM)—a collection of raw conversations between her and various BIPOC as they dissect their shared experiences dealing with colorism and, in turn, what we can all do to heal from and dismantle it.

INTERVIEWS

KARA FABELLA Full Name: Kara Fabella Instagram: @theflippside Website: www.theflippside.co (but it’s under construction =) will be up in the next couple of months.

HI KARA! TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. I am a 1st generation Filipina American -- the daughter of two of the most dedicated and hardest working people I know. I have a background in journalism and I (surprise!) love fashion. My not-so-hidden talent is that I sing! Many Filipinos are obviously known for singing, but what a lot of people don’t know is that my parents once dabbled in the idea of flying me and my sister to the Philippines to pursue careers as singers when we were younger. I still love singing, and honestly, I do wish I continued to take better care of my vocal chords more as I got older. I once fancied myself as the next major fashion journalist, but quickly decided I had more of a passion for styling. I grew up admiring the art of putting together a look, something inherited from my mother and being somewhat entranced with how colors really played into one’s mood and style. I was always that kid who gravitated towards a book and flipped through the pages for its color choices and illustration style. That love of color theory has played out in various parts of my life, from where I worked in retail to where I currently reside (SF is a bold color lover’s dream!) to my signature color choices in both my work as a stylist and in my own signature color palette on my Instagram page. 94

"I like to parallel this need to be compensated fairly and equally to that of our white peers with the need to advocate for equitable pay and working conditions of marginalized communities being exploited by fast fashion companies, oil companies, etc. It’s all connected. " - Kara Fabella

NOW TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR BUSINESS AND YOUR LIFE TODAY. DID YOU HAVE AN “AH-HA” TYPE OF MOMENT WHEN STARTING YOUR BUSINESS? I recently went freelance as an ethical fashion creator and wardrobe stylist. I am still working out the kinks of managing myself (accountant, creative direction, photographer, etc.), but I’m also enjoying not feeling the need to be productive on a regular basis. My own little revolt against capitalist tendencies. =) I think sometimes as freelancers, we don’t allow ourselves the grace of having those days where we need to recharge, get outside, or do something creative that isn’t necessarily always tied to work. At the same time, too, it’s a tricky balance of making sure there’s enough work coming in so that you CAN have those days to truly enjoy yourself. All in all, I consider myself lucky that my biggest worry is balancing out work gigs and free time.

I think there were so many "ah-ha moments in my career trajectory, but there was always that little voice inside telling me that I would fail--a combination of Asian guilt, imposter syndrome, and fear of financial instability. So, making the leap into pursuing a full-time career as a creator and stylist was always gradual. I started my IG account as a creative outlet and to meet likeminded people who were interested in pursuing a more sustainable and accountable lifestyle, but also really loved fashion and what it could stand for. I didn’t think of it as something I could truly do fulltime until the last 2 years when I connected with other BIPoC creators who understood the value of getting compensated for our original content. I like to parallel this need to be compensated fairly and equally to that of our white peers with the need to advocate for equitable pay and working conditions of marginalized communities being exploited by fast fashion companies, oil companies, etc. It’s all connected. Watching the documentary, The True Cost, was eye opening for me.

WHAT DO YOU FIND MOST INSPIRING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY? I find it most inspiring that the path to sustainability leads us back to my/our indigenous roots. I have loved seeing BIPoC creators reclaim what sustainability means (the Intersectional Environmentalist collective, Aja Barber, Dominique Drakeford, and Michelle Kim to name a few).

WHAT’S ONE THING YOU FEEL THAT WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE? Fall in love with your wardrobe again. =) I tell my clients who are looking to do a wardrobe refresh that the answer isn’t always purging, especially if you’re seeking to rid yourself of the habit of overconsumption. A huge chunk of sustainability is being creative with what you already have.

INTERVIEWS TO DATE, WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT WHEN IT COMES TO EITHER BUILDING YOUR BUSINESS / CAREER OR SOMETHING IN LIFE YOU HAVE ACCOMPLISHED? I could say that finally reaching the point of hitting the 5 figure mark per brand partnership was a milestone for me (and truly thankful for the work that I’ve been getting in the sustainability space), but to be honest, I’d say my biggest achievement was overcoming my fear of failure and leaving my last full-time job. I knew I’d learned all I could with that position, and unfortunately didn’t see much opportunity or support in where I hoped to take my career there. There was a lot of gatekeeping. As for the biggest challenge I’ve faced so far with my current business: as a creator and stylist, a lot of brands will only see the number of followers and equate your worth to that. It’s been an uphill battle to consistently advocate for the quality of my work. On the flip side of that, another challenge has been not getting in my own way and letting imposter syndrome take over.

HOW ELSE CAN WE SUPPORT YOU? My website will be up and running early next year (www.theflippside.co)

For more issues head to www.globalgarbs.com