GlobeRovers Magazine (Dec 2019)

GlobeRovers

Feature Article

10 Japan - A Winter Wonderland

Winter is the most beautiful month of the year if you are blessed with heavy snowfalls. There are few natural landscapes more splendid than walking through a snow-covered forest; relaxing in a natural hot spring while snow is falling around you; or skiing down a snow-covered mountain. One of the best places in the world to enjoy winter is Japan. Not only does it offer pristine natural scenery with lots of snow, it also offers a colourful culture and great food that will make any winter escapade memorable for life.

ARTICLES + PHOTO ESSAYS

Albania’s Riviera on the Ionian Sea

Described as having “turquoise seas, scenic mountain backdrops and sparkling shores” southern Albania is known as the “Albanian Riviera” for many good reasons.

Svalbard - Gateway to the North Pole

e Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean is gateway to the North Pole and therefore ideal for adventurers wanting to see polar bears and the Northern Lights.

Mauritius - Indian Ocean Island (Part 2)

Located west of Madagascar, Mauritius is known for its turquoise seas, black volcanic rocks, palm trees, sugar cane elds and craggy mountain peaks.

Oman - Gem of the Arabian Peninsula

As one of the most stable and safe countries for travellers in the Middle East, Oman has incredible natural scenery and culture to o er intrepid travellers.

Colombia - Caribbean Adventures

Colombia’s Caribbean coastline is home to unspoiled islands, deserted beaches, a well preserved colonial town, ancient ruins, and even a bubbling mud volcano.

Corcovado Jungle Trekking - Costa Rica

On a remote peninsula along the Paci c West Coast of Costa Rica is Corcovado National Park, known for its countless species of living creatures.

SPECIAL FEATURES

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Traveller’s Treats

Postcards to Mommy

CONTRIBUTIONS

The Earth is calling us to Action

South Australian Outback

Canada’s Fort Resolution

Volunteering - To pay or not to pay

Traveller in the Spotlight

Book Review

TOP LISTS

10 Winter Activities in Japan

10 Experiences on Svalbard

9 Intrepid Places to visit in 2020

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Cambodia Island Hopping

e Cambodian islands in the Gulf of ailand have long been ignored by most travellers who ock to neighbouring ailand. ese islands are known for their lapis-blue waters, jungle-clad interiors, swathes of white sand, and bioluminescent plankton that glows at night.

Skiing among the Juhyou frosted trees. Zao Onsen, Japan

THE FRONT COVER: “Snow Monsters” of Zao, Japan

Globerovers Magazine

is currently a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe to the intrepid traveller.

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“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien

John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

In this 14th issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations for your reading enjoyment.

e feature destination is Japan. While any time is a good time to visit Japan, we found the winter scenery to be picturesque beyond our imagination. We start our adventure in northern Honshu Island at the Zao Onsen and Ski Resort where we also meet the “Snow Monsters”. From here we travel north to meet Princess Tatsuko at Lake Tazawako. We then cross the sea to Hokkaido Island where we spend time with tancho cranes at the Kushiro Marshes and whooper swans at Lake Kussharo. We also go polar bear spotting by dogsled on the arctic Svalbard Islands and then travel along Colombia’s Caribbean coast to take a bath in a mud volcano. A erwards we search for the region’s most tranquil sandy beaches and turquoise waters. Mauritius (Part 2) o ers more travel advice from this idyllic Indian Ocean island.

Photo Essays include the Albanian Riviera, Oman on the Arabian Peninsula, and Costa Rica’s remote Corcovado National Park.

We also have our regular contributions from Canada and Australia, a guide to volunteering, and an article about the negative e ects of mass tourism.

A special thank you to our sponsors as well as all our wonderful contributors who we introduce on page 5.

Visit our website and social media. For easy access, scan the QR codes on page 7.

Feedback to editor@globerovers.com.

I travel so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn, PhD Editor-in-Chief and

Publisher

THE FRONT COVER “Snow monsters” of Zao

Known as “snow monsters”, the trees on Mount Zao take on mystifying shapes during the coldest part of the winter.

CONTRIBUTORS

All words and photos by Peter Steyn, except where otherwise indicated. A very special thank you to our awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, Globerovers Magazine just wouldnʼt be the same!

Fuchsia Sims, Sydney, Australia (page 78)

Fuchsia is co-founder of the Adventure Junky App - Earths Sustainable Travel Game. Helping you make responsible travel achievable and fun by awarding you points for completing or contributing low-impact experiences and showcasing destinations and travel operators that offer them.

Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (page 82)

Janet is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Janet is the Southern African editor for Globerovers Magazine.

Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 120)

Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering naturebased attractions and activities – and scenic loos – all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and published book “Aussie Loos with Views” provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.

Yrene Dee, Lumby, BC, Canada (Page 136)

Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and travelled the world before she settled in Canada. She is an entrepreneur, wilderness nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.

Claire Bennett, Kathmandu, Nepal (page 142)

Claire lives and works in Kathmandu, Nepal, and freelances as a trainer and consultant. She is passionate about global education, ethical travel and ensuring good intentions are put to good use. She is co-author of Learning Service: The Essential Guide to Volunteering Abroad.

João Leitão (page 148)

João is a travel blogger who writes about journeys into more than 130 countries across Africa, Antarctica, Asia, Europe, the Americas and Oceania. A Portuguese expat living in Morocco since 2006, João loves to indulge into other cultures and learn about their languages and traditional values.

Adam Rogers, New York, USA (page 152)

Adam is a peripatetic writer and explorer who has been on the road for most of the past 40 years. He is the author of numerous books including The Intrepid Traveler, Taking Action, The Earth Summit and The No Mammal Manifesto: Diet for a new and more sustainable world.

The Globerovers‛ World

Globerovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.

It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has visited 122 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, Macau) and is poised to explore Siberia (Russia) and Mongolia in the near future. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.

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Japan

The “Snow Monsters” of Zao more closely resemble humans than monsters. The juhyo (ice trees) around the peak of the Zao Ski Resort are created during the coldest part of the winter on evergreen conifer trees such as Japanese red pines, white fr, blue spruce, and red cedars. The best time to see them is from early January to early March.

JAPAN

A WINTER WONDERLAND

While any time is a good time to explore the beauty of Japan, winter months are truly special. Nothing better for mind and spirit than watching the so snow falling while sipping on hot sake wine.

Anthony Bourdain, the celebrity chef, author, and popular travel documentarian who took his own life in 2018, once said: “Japan is endlessly interesting to me. A er going on nine lming trips there, I don’t think I’ve even scratched the surface and I don’t think I ever will”. He was especially fond of the food in Japan and proclaimed: “If I had to eat only in one city for the rest of my life, Tokyo would be it”.

Most travellers who have been to Japan will agree that Japan has more to o er than one person can experience in a lifetime. I personally have been to Japan numerous times and I too still feel that I have not scratched the surface.

In addition to the beautiful natural snow-covered scenery in winter, Japan’s culture smoothly intertwines with this special time of the year.

While the Japanese archipelago consists of 6,852 islands, roughly arranged in the shape of a dragon, its total land area is 377,973 km² - a large area to explore. Being a long skinny country stretching from the southernmost island of Okinotori in the Philippine Sea all the way up to the northern tip of Hokkaido Island near Russia’s Sakhalin Island, the distance - as the crow ies - is approximately 2,840 kilometres (1,765 mi).

However, the uninterrupted drivable distance from the southern end of Kyushu Island to the northern tip of Hokkaido Island is about 2,780 kilometres (1,727 mi).

e rst challenging decision when planning a trip to Japan is the choice of season as Japan has four very well de ned seasons: Spring is time for the famous cherry blossoms (locally known as

sakura), the season for which Japan is most well known. Summers are hot with lush-green landscapes, while in autumn, Japan’s trees and shrubs explode in colours of yellow, orange, red, purple and all shades in between. During winter, much of Japan turns into an idyllic winter wonderland. Every season is a good season to visit Japan. Summers are great for festivals and reworks, though it can get quite hot and humid. Spring and autumn are arguably the most pleasant seasons, while winter is the most exciting with all the winter-sports, steaming hot springs (locally known as onsen), snow and ice festivals, rare wildlife, illuminated villages, and don’t forget the hot Japanese rice wine (locally known as sake) on cold winter nights.

If you want to experience the beauty of the cherry blossoms, then visit during March and April. e peak period for the blossoms is mid to late March on Kyushu and mid to late April on Hokkaido.

If you are more interested in the vibrant glowing orange and red colours of autumn, then visit between late October in the north all the way to mid-December in the south. Autumn rst arrives in the far north of Hokkaido, and then slowly moves south to Kyushu, the same directional ow as the winter snow-falls.

You may think of winter as a dreadfully cold and depressing time of the year. While this can be true, this perception mostly applies if you are living in Japan and have to commute to work in icy conditions and shovel the snow in your driveway.

As a traveller, no little inconveniences brought on by winter will bother you. On the contrary, all that will matter to you is sitting in a steaming hot spring while the gently falling snow akes create a white hat on your head. Relax and have another hot sake rice wine while thinking about your cross-country ski routes.

Japanese winters are relatively brief. Starting around late November or early December, the winter season generally continues until the end of February or early to mid-March.

As expected, the further north you travel, the longer and harsher the winters are. In some parts of Hokkaido in the far north, and in the mountainous regions, winter can be even longer and colder. Generally, the coldest temperatures come around in February when the mercury can drop well below freezing point.

While the southern islands of Okinawa never see snow, heavy snowfalls are frequent along the coastal mountains on the Japanese Sea facing Russia and Korea, the northern parts of Honshu, and all of Hokkaido.

Come along as we explore a few of Japan’s most idyllic winter wonderlands.

In the lower-northern part of Honshu, we visit Zao Onsen and Ski Resort, also famous for its Juhyou frosted r trees.

A er Zao, we travel further north to Lake Tazawako and the nearby Tsurunoyu Onsen.

As Hokkaido is the most idyllic winter spot of Japan, we then take the train north through the Tsugaru Strait that separates Honshu Island and Hokkaido Island. A er a brief stop to attend the snow festival in Hokkaido’s capital Sapporo, we head east to the Kushiro Marshes to spend time with the red-crowned cranes performing their love dances in the snow. From there, we travel north to the shores of Lake Kussharo, home to the large white whooper swans dabbling on the hot springs, surrounded by snow.

Before we start our travels, we rst consider ten brilliant reasons for visiting Japan in winter. A er that, come along as we visit two winter wonderlands on northern Honshu Island before we move further north to Hokkaido.

WHY CHOOSE WINTER?

While Japan is great any time of the year, winter is truly special.

Choosing the right season to visit Japan is a tough decision. While the best decision is to visit Japan during all four seasons, winter is the most exciting time. Here are ten of the best reasons why winter is a great time to visit Japan:

1. FEWER TOURISTS IN WINTER

e surge in foreign visitors to Japan has been the result of a gradual easing of Japan’s travel visa requirements since 2013, as well as an increase in the number of Asian budget airlines ying into Japan. e depreciation of the Japanese yen has also boosted tourist arrivals.

e number of tourist arrivals from China increased four-fold over a ve-year period so that China has overtaken South Korea as the top source of tourists. e Asia region now accounts for about 85% of all tourist arrivals in Japan. According to the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO), the estimated number of international travellers to Japan in June 2019 was about 2.9 million, a 6.5% increase from the previous year and the highest tourist arrival number for the month of June, ever.

To avoid the crowds, visit throughout the winter months when you will nd many of the country’s most iconic sights almost completely deserted. Gone are the madding crowds from spring, summer, and autumn.

2. THE JAPANESE ONSEN

A Japanese onsen is a mineral-rich geothermal natural hot spring bath. On a cold and snowy day, there is simply nothing like sinking into a steamy outdoors bath (locally known as rotenburo) while snow akes are gently falling all around you. While the steaming mountain-stream meanders through the snow-covered woods and ows right into your natural

rocky bath, you sip on a hot sake and know you came to the right place.

e onsen, as well as the sentō (community bath-house), are integral to Japanese culture. While a visit to one or two sentō is a great introduction to this part of Japanese culture, the onsen is where you want to spend more time.

Some onsen are traditional cedarpanelled baths in large themed complexes where you can bathe in a variety of waters from milky white coloured water, to aromatic water smelling of honey. e rotenburo outdoor bath that hugs the side of the jungle or a picturesque creek, is where you want to be, especially in winter.

Japan has so many beautiful onsen all over the country that it is hard to single out the best. Even so, make sure to visit the tranquil onsen town of Ginzan in Yamagata Prefecture, one of the most historic and picturesque onsen towns in Japan.

e town is located along the banks of the Ginzan River and also o ers beautiful wooden ryokan, the traditional onsen inns. Another onsen area not to miss is the Noberibetsu Onsen region of Hokkaido, as well as Zao Onsen and Tsurunoyu Onsen in the northern part of Honshu Island.

3. HOT SAKE RICE WINE

Going hand-in-hand with the onsen experience, though certainly not limited to the onsen, is the Japanese culture of enjoying heated sake (Japan’s native rice wine) on a cold winter’s day or night.

While sake is enjoyed straight from the fridge during the rest of the year, during winter there is nothing better than to warm yourself up with a glass of hot sake. Enjoy your sake in the onsen, or huddled inside your traditional ryokan (travellers inn) or in an izakaya (small Japanese pub). Sake comes in a variety of types and qualities, with prices to match.

4. SNOW FESTIVALS

Japan is well known for its elaborate show festivals. While there are many such festivals all over Japan, the most impressive is the Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) on Hokkaido Island. Lasting one week in February, Sapporo’s festival features illuminations, skating, toboggan runs, ice bars, many kinds of winter games, and enormous sculptures created from ice and snow. Some of these works of art measure up to 15 metres (49 ) tall and 25 metres (82 ) wide. In the neighbouring town of Otaru, check out the Light Snow Path Festival.

Some other festivals to consider are the Tokamachi Snow Festival, Asahikawa Winter Festival, Akita’s Yokote Kamakura Festival, Tochigi’s Yunishigawa Onsen Kamakura Festival, and the Snow Monsters Festival of Zao in Yamagata.

Watch out for the traditional kamakura (igloo-like snow huts or domes) which are traditionally made in the Tohoku region and in northern areas of the Kanto region, such as at the Yunishigawa Kamakura Festival. At night, the town is lit up with hundreds of small kamakura with candles and turns into a magical winter wonderland.

5. SNOW SPORTS

Japan is over 70% mountainous, boasts over 500 ski resorts, and receives some of the world’s most reliable snowfall. It is not hard to nd excellent ski resorts with sweeping ski-runs and superb powdery snow alongside stunning natural beauty and romantic accommodation where hospitality is top-notch.

Just 200 kilometres (124 mi) northwest of Tokyo is Yuzawa in the Japanese Alps. e area is world-renowned for its heavy snowfalls and a prolonged winter season with excellent trails for skiing and snow-

boarding. Furthermore, Yuzawa is blessed with several hot springs, some dating back 900 years. e Kaido-no-yu onsen has outdoor pools with breathtaking views of the surrounding snow-capped mountains.

While some of the best ski resorts are in Hokkaido, the Zao Ski Resort in Honshu is unique as you can ski past the “snow monsters”. More about Zao and its “snow monsters” later.

6. ICE AND ICICLES

Along with the cold winter temperatures come the ice and icicles. One of the most accessible places to showcase this beautiful winter phenomenon in Japan is in Misotsuchi. Here gigantic icicles are created by water owing over the cli s located upstream from the waterfall in the Chichibu area of Saitama Prefecture, just over 100 kilometres (62 mi) northwest of Tokyo.

Nearby is the Onouchi Hyakkei Icicle Park in Ogano and the Ashigakubo Icicles which are arti cially created when water is sprayed over the trees in the frigid cold, resulting in wildly shaped ice crusts on the branches. If you are here on weekends during January and February, you will see the special lighting that mystically illuminates the icicles.

Some of the many other places to see icicles are at Gouradani, also known as Nanshoga near Shojidake in Fukuoka Prefecture, and the r trees of Zao Onsen in Yamagata Prefecture.

7. WINTER ILLUMINATIONS

e “chasing of illuminations” is a favourite romantic pastime for Japanese families and couples. Japan has no shortage of the most impressive winter illuminations you have ever dreamt of.

Almost every major Japanese city has at least one winter light illumination area. Tokyo has several, such as the Caretta Shiodome Illuminations, Roppongi Hills Christmas Lights, and the Tokyo Midtown Christmas Illuminations. e Shiodome illuminations are arguably the most impressive.

ere are many illumination events held across the country of which the most spectacular is the Nabana no Sato of Kuwana city in Mie Prefecture. Over 8 million LED lights are used to create the mind-blowing art-of-lights in the vast park where you will nd the impressive “Tunnel of Lights”. Truly a fairy tale. While watching the lights you can also enjoy the local Nagashima-chi Beer and natural hot springs. West of Tokyo is the equally impressive light show at the “Lake Sagami Pleasure Forest” in Kanagawa.

8. WINTER VILLAGES

One of the best places to spend a night or two during Japan’s winters is in a “winter village”. When quaint traditional Japanese villages are covered in u y thick white snow it creates a wonderful atmosphere, especially when they are modestly illuminated.

One of the most charming and rustic traditional Japanese villages to visit in winter a er heavy snow, is the Shirakawago village in central Japan, a tiny village located 300 kilometres (186 mi) west of Tokyo in Takayama, Gifu Prefecture. e village is a collection of original thatched farmhouses with tall pointed roofs in the gasshō-zukuri style, meaning ‘praying hands’ which re ects the shape of the roofs. When snow-covered and illuminated it creates a scene straight from a Christmas card. e village is best viewed from the observation deck above the village.

To control overcrowding, from 2019 onward new regulations are in place that require visitors to make an online reservation. Alternatively, the villages of the Gokayama region are still mostly una ected by mass-tourism. In this region, check out the villages of Gokayama, Suganuma, and Ainokura.

9. JAPANESE SHRINES

Shrines in Japan are very photogenic, in particular those with alleys or tunnels, made of many torii gates lined up in a long row. Torii gates are most commonly found at the entrance of, or within, a Shinto shrine, where they symbolically mark the transition from the mundane to the sacred.

Attending a Shinto shrine when it is covered in snow is an exhilarating sight.

Kyoto’s Kifune Shrine with its many torii gates is one such shrine not to miss when covered under a thick blanket of show. When the shrine is illuminated at night, the snowy fairy tale comes alive.

10. WINTER WILDLIFE

While you may not think of wildlife as a reason to visit Japan in winter, this is a major drawcard for birdwatchers and photographers with their big cameras and long lenses who ock to Japan, mainly to Hokkaido, during the winter months.

While the coldest parts of Japan such as Hokkaido have mammals including the red fox, spotted deer (also known as the Japanese deer or sika deer), sable (a small carnivorous mammal primarily inhabiting the forest), northern fur seal, and Steller sea lion, the main attraction is the birds.

Hooded and white-naped cranes are present in Kagoshima Prefecture of the southern island of Kyushu, though the biggest draw is Hokkaido. Here you can see the revered Red-crowned cranes performing love dances in the snow, while the Whooper swans (pronounced hooper) congregate where the hot springs ow into the partly frozen lakes. More about these birds later.

February is an ideal time to spot the Steller’s sea eagles at the northernmost areas of Hokkaido where the sea-ice extends down the Sea of Okhotsk reaching the northeast coast of Hokkaido and in particular the Shiretoko Peninsula. While in Hokkaido, keep an eye out for the Ural owl that is active day and night, though it is primarily nocturnal. e Blakiston’s sh owl is also a resident of Hokkaido.

Convinced that winter is the most exciting time to visit Japan? Now let’s start our journey!

“ Planning wildlife photography in Japan? Bring your longest lenses as competition is fierce"

ZAO ONSEN

Onsen village known for steaming waters, snow monsters, and great skiing.

While there are so many places to enjoy Japan in winter, one place not to miss has to be the hot spring town of Zao Onsen. Located 400 kilometres (248 mi) north of Tokyo, the town lies 880 metres (2,887 ) above sea level on the slopes of the volcanic Mount Zao.

With a history that goes back about 1,900 years, the area is known for some of the best ski slopes with excellent powdersnow conditions, hot springs, mountain scenery, and its famous “snow monsters” that come alive in mid-winter.

THE SKI RESORT

Zao is one of Japan’s oldest ski resorts. Its 14 di erent slopes and 12 courses are suitable for skiers and snowboarders of all levels and are serviced by 35 li s, a gondola and 3 ropeways. Its longest run starts at the summit of the mountain and is about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) long.

e ski season usually starts in early December and ends around early May, depending on the snow conditions.

Interested in improving your skiing and snowboarding techniques? No problem. Zao has seven ski schools and one snowboard school allowing you to choose a class according to your individual needs. If needed, English speaking instructors can be pre-booked for private lessons.

To protect the little ones, Zao even o ers a Ski Kodomo-no-hi (Children’s Ski Day) when children under elementary school age are eligible for a large discount.

e best time to meet up with the “snow monsters” is generally from early January to early March, with February being the time when they are at their biggest.

THE SNOW MONSTERS

Zao is one of only a few places in Japan where the juhyo (ice trees) can be seen. Juhyo can be found on a limited number of mountains in the northeastern areas of Japan with Zao one of the most accessible areas. Better known as “snow monsters”, the trees take on mystifying shapes during the coldest part of the winter.

It is as if almost every tree, which by mid-winter is hardly recognisable as a tree, takes on the shape of a human, complete with facial features, blowing hair, hats, wide dresses, and limbs. ey o en appear as a group of people in traditional dress looking at each other or walking up the hill. While they are called “snow monsters”, most more closely resemble humans than

monsters if you have a strong imagination.

e “snow monsters” form around the peak of the Zao Ski Resort and are usually at their most spectacular around midFebruary.

ere are a few climatic conditions necessary for the juhyo to be created. e trees must be evergreen conifers such as the Japanese red pines, white r, blue spruce, red cedar or similar. e ice devel-

shrimp tail” as these unique ice formations resemble the tails of shrimps. ese “tails” will build up and ll all the gaps between the branches and freeze very hard. As this phenomenon repeats itself over several days, the build-up creates masterpieces.

Access to the “snow monsters” is by ropeway and a gondola t for both skiers and non-skiers. From the top of the mountain the panoramic view over the ski slopes and the “snow monsters” is spectacular.

ops particularly fast when the temperature is around minus 5°C (23F) and when the wind is weak. Water droplets must be present in the low hanging snow clouds, and they then adhere to the trees as they make contact. Heavy snowfalls between two and three metres are also ideal.

On Mount Zao, where the wind tends to be strong, juhyo grow windward and their tips turn into a shape called “the

e “snow monsters” must be seen during the day, especially on clear sunny days, as well as in the evenings when coloured oodlights light up the monsters around the summit. View them from the open viewing deck of the cafe, or from a warm seat inside the cafe. Make sure to dress very warmly as the wind can get extremely strong and brutally cold at night - ideal conditions to make the monsters even wilder and bigger.

The wind is blowing, it is freezing cold, and you are alone, surrounded by “snow monsters” so real that you can hear them talking in their frosted voices.

ZAO ONSEN SKI RESORT

708-1 Zao Onsen, Yamagata-City

YAMAGATA, 990-2301 JAPAN

Tel: +81-23-694-9328

Fax: +81-23-694-9327

A Cool White Powdery Playground

Zao Onsen is located in Yamagata City in the northeastern region of Tohoku. It is one of Japan’s most renowned tourist destinations, standing about 800 metres above sea level and among splendid mountains. This traditional hot spring village is surrounded by nature.

THE ONSEN OF ZAO

A er a full day on the ski slopes and an evening with the “snow monsters” where the winter wind is bitterly cold, there is nothing better at Zao than an evening soak in an onsen. In fact, any time of the day or night is a good time for a soak in an onsen.

Zao Onsen’s sulphuric waters are among the most acidic in Japan with a pH value of close to 1 on the scale of 1 to 14, with 1 being the most acidic. ese waters are reputedly very e ective with rejuvenating and strengthening the skin and blood vessels, and therefore popularly known as “the beauty maker” or “springs of beauty”.

More precisely, the steaming hot waters are said to aid with the healing of incised wounds, chronic skin diseases, diabetes, hypertension, muscle pains, joint pains, physical exhaustion, and a lot more. If we can believe all these claims then there is no better way to rejuvenate our tired and ageing bodies than right here at Zao’s many onsen.

Zao has several onsen which range from small, old-fashioned community baths to modern facilities with various pools.

e absolute highlight of Zao’s onsen is the Zao Dai Rotenburo (rotenburo means “outdoor bath”) located at the highest point in Zao Onsen town. is genderseparated outdoor bath is located right in the hot and highly sulphuric mountain streams, surrounded by lush forests.

In line with Japanese onsen etiquette, you place your clothes in a black plastic bag and leave it unattended in the wooden changing room, then walk down the wooden path to the pools, totally in the nude. Make sure to take along your small white facial towel available in the changing room, which is used to cover your private parts when outside the bath.

While this open-air onsen is o cially closed from December to March, I was very lucky that it opened for a single day when I visited on a very snowy day near the end of January. While sitting in the natural baths, my head got covered in a thick layer of snow within minutes. What an incredible experience!

Zao Onsen also o ers other resort attractions including a Family Snow Park

and a Snowboard Park. e resort has easy to understand signs in English, Korean and Chinese as well as Japanese, and the friendly people in the small village are always very welcoming to guests from overseas.

ZAO TRAVEL TIPS

Most ryokan and many hotels and pensions in Zao Onsen offer their staying guests access to their own onsen. A few of them also open their onsen to nonstaying guests for a small admission fee.

Zao Onsen can be reached by air, car, train or bus. Flights from Tokyo’s Haneda airport to Yamagata airport take about an hour, followed by a one-hour bus ride. By car, the journey takes about fve hours, while the train from Tokyo via the Japan Rail (JR) Yamagata Shinkansen takes two and a half hours to Yamagata station from where the bus shuttle to Zao Onsen takes 40 minutes.

The town has ample restaurants and several choices of accommodation such as resorts, hotels, inns, ryokan, lodges, pensions, and private homes.

One of the highlights of Zao is the Dai Rotenburo outdoor bath located at the highest point in Zao Onsen town. It is open once a year!

Zao is one of Japan’s oldest ski resorts. Its 14 different slopes and 12 courses are suitable for skiers and snowboarders of all levels and are serviced by 35 lifts, a gondola and three ropeways. Its longest run starts at the summit of the mountain and is about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) long.

LAKE TAZAWAKO AREA

A tranquil lake surrounded by snow covered mountains.

While snow-covered mountains are synonymous with idyllic winter scenery, how about a snow-covered lake with a princess named Tatsuko standing on its shores? According to legend, Tatsuko wanted to eternally preserve her beauty but was then cursed to become the protective dragon of Lake Tazawa.

To appreciate the mysterious legend of Princess Tatsuko, locally known as Tatsuko Densetsu, we continue our winter journey to Lake Tazawa on Honshu’s mountainous northern Akita Prefecture.

Lake Tazawa, located near the city of Semboku which is 230 kilometres (143 mi) north of Zao Onsen, is one of Japan’s largest caldera lakes with a depth of 423 me-

tres (1,388 ). We will stop by the golden statue of Princess Tatsuko on the southwestern shores of the lake, go all around the lake, and then travel 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) northwest of the lake past Mount AkitaKomagatake to spend some relaxing time at another one of Japan’s most beautiful winter onsen, Tsurunoyu

THE LAKE

Our rst stop is Lake Tazawa, one of Japan’s most beautiful areas, particularly in winter. A picture-perfect landscape unfolds when the lake is surrounded by snow, with snow-covered Mount AkitaKomagatake towering in the background.

Due to its depth, there is no possibility that the lake can freeze over, even in the dead of winter. is lake has no natural in ow or out ow and as a result, it used to have a crystal clear visibility of about 30 metres (98 ). Sadly, due to a nearby

hydroelectric power plant as well as runo from farms and the highly acidic spillover waters from Tamagawa Onsen, this visibility has been reduced to less than 4 metres (13 ). e acidity of the water makes it unsuitable for human consumption, or even for agricultural use.

Access to the area on public transport is fairly easy. Tazawako-Akita train station lies a short distance to the southwest of the lake and is served by the JR Shinkansen and the JR Tazawako. From the station, or from nearby Tazawa-kohan bus station, take a circle bus around the lake which will stop at several of the main scenic points, including the iconic golden statue of Princess Tatsuko and the Gozanoishi Shrine with its bright red torii gate standing right by the water. Gozanoishi Shrine was founded in 1650 and received its name when the lord of the Akita Clan, Satake Yoshitaka, took a rest while visiting Lake Tazawa.

A large and very deep caldera lake, Tazawa is set in one of the most beautiful locations in Japan.

No wonder this is also home to Princess Tatsuko!

The shores of Lake Tazawako.

THE PRINCESS

I came to this lake especially to see the golden statue of Princess Tatsuko and to better appreciate this mysterious legend. According to the Tazawako Tourism Association, there are di erent versions of the legendary princess. “Perhaps no one knows the ‘original’ or ‘authentic’ version because it has been orally passed down through generations” the Tourism Association proclaimed but shared with me the most common version of this folklore:

Tatsuko, a girl from the In-nai area, was known for her beautiful appearance. Knowing her beauty would not last forever, she started to visit a nearby shrine at the foot of Mount Okurasan. She would visit the shrine to make a wish, night a er night. On the 100th night, she nally received a message from the god of mercy —“Go north. Find the holy spring. Take a sip from there.”

Over the mountains she walked and nally she found the holy spring that she was told about. Delighted, she took a sip as she was instructed. When Tatsuko drank the water from the holy spring with her delicate hands, she became more and more thirsty. She was drinking so breathlessly and mindlessly that she dipped her face to the water. e next moment, heavy clouds appeared over the mountains, bringing a thunderstorm. Soon, the pouring rain washed out everything and caused a landslide down to the lake. e lightning was so blinding that Tatsuko couldn’t even see herself. When it nally calmed down, she came across a shining stone that re ected her gure so she realised she was cursed and transformed into a dragon.

When Tatsuko had been absent for way too long, her mother became unbearably anxious. She wandered deep into the mountains in search of her precious daughter. Finally, she found the holy spring. She desperately called her daughter’s name. e call was heard by Tatsuko, who had now become a dragon living in the waters of the lake. “Forgive me, Mother” she said. “Because I wished for eternal beauty, I became a dragon who must serve as a guardian of Lake Tazawa. I cannot return home with you. Instead, I will keep this lake abundant with sh, so you can have it every day to remember me. ey are my o erings to you.”

Tatsuko then disappeared into the water. Her mother was so agonised that she screamed and threw her burning torch into the lake. As the re was instantly put out, the torch became black and soon turned into a school of kunimasu sh. According to the story, the princess-dragon later sank to the bottom of the lake and died.

Today, the only reminder we have of Princess Tatsuko, the goddess of Lake Tazawa, is her golden-bronze statue created by Japanese sculptor and painter, Yasutake Funakoshi (December 7, 1912 – February 5, 2002), that was unveiled on April 12, 1968. She stands proudly with her back to the clear blue waters, a gure of purity and beauty. Surrounded by snow,

her eternal beauty will remain mystifying for years to come.

At the Gozanoishi Shrine is the “Katagashira-no-reisen,” the spring that Princess Tatsuko is said to have drunk from to preserve her beauty and then turned into a dragon, as well as the “kagami-ishi” stone that re ected her dragon gure. Here you can also see a smaller statue of Tatsuko sitting in a contrite pose, representing her regret for chasing a er vanity.

The golden statue of Princess Tatsuko at the shore of Lake Tazawako.

The torii gate at Gozanoishi Shrine facing Lake Tazawako.

TSURUNOYU ONSEN

Let’s shake ourselves back into reality and travel along the southern shores of the lake and then up in a northwestern direction, 25 kilometres (15.5 mi) from the princess to Tsurunoyu Onsen. Tsurunoyu is one of eight onsen, and the oldest, that belong to Nyutou Onsenkyo which is located near the foot of Mount Nyutou (1,478 m / 4,849 ).

Dating back to between 1638 and 1661 when the second lord of Akita, Yoshitaka Satake, visited Tsurunoyu Onsen for therapy, visitation by the general public began

during the Genroku era (1688~1704). e name, Tsurunoyu, is derived from folklore that a local hunter saw a crane (tsuru in Japanese) healing its wounds in the spring.

e onsen features four baths, each with water of a di erent composition. In winter, the outside baths are straight from a fairy tale as this area can get tons of snow. With snow piling up around the baths while the steam rises from the milky hot waters, it is pure bliss. Unlike most other onsen in Japan, the outside bath is a mixed-gender bath (konyoku), and in line with Japanese culture, no bathing wear is allowed.

It is customary, and expected, that you bring along a small white facial towel from the changing room to cover your private areas as you approach and sink into the bath. Also as expected in all onsen, is to meticulously scrub your entire body in the gender-segregated wash areas before you enter the communal baths.

Bedrooms at Tsurunoyu Onsen are of traditional Japanese interior design and are quite bare, with only a small table on a wall-to-wall tatami mat as ooring, low tables (kotatsu) for when you sit on the mat, some large cushions, and a few traditional Japanese futon mattresses that are laid directly on the tatami mat. Mattresses are kept folded in the closet during the day and are rolled out in the evening a er dinner.

A er a long day in the snow followed by a sunset soak in the steaming rotenburo, it is time for dinner which is normally included in a night’s stay. Be ready for some local food such as sansai dishes (mountain vegetables), and Tsurunoyu’s local speciality - yamanoimo (Japanese mountain yam) cooked in a pot (nabe), as well as grilled Iwana (char or trout sh).

In winter, the area around the wooden buildings is decorated with many igloo-like snow huts or domes (kamakuras) with candles burning inside. Such a beautiful sight.

Some of the other places worth exploring in the area include the other onsen of Nyutou Onsenkyo, Tamagawa Onsen further north, Kakunodate-Bukeyashiki (samurai residences south of Tazawa Lake), Tazawa Lake Ski Resort, and Mount Komagatake.

Mount Komagatake refects in the waters of Lake Tazawako.

THE CRANES OF KUSHIRO

The Kushiro Marshes of Hokkaido are home to Japan’s most revered cranes.

Winter in Japan is a lot more than snow-covered mountains, ski resorts, lakes, and hot springs. It is also wildlife, in the snow.

From the hot spring waters of Tsurunoyu Onsen in northern Honshu, we travel by train northwards through the 19.5 kilometre (12.1 mi) long Seikan Tunnel across the Tsugaru Strait that separates Honshu Island and Hokkaido Island. e train will come to a stop in Sapporo, the largest city on Hokkaido.

Linger around Sapporo and attend the Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) if you are here in February. In 2020, the festival will be held from the 4th to the 11th of February. e festival’s main site is at Odori Park where you will nd most of the snow and ice sculptures, as well as plenty of warm drinks and delicious Japanese food. It was right here in Odori Park where the Sapporo Snow Festival was started in 1950 by a creative group of high school students who started building a few snow statues that attracted unexpected crowds.

You can also attend the festival at the nearby Susukino Site under the 2020 theme of ‘Enjoy the Ice’. is site o ers a fantastic ice sculpture show and the Ice Sculpture Contest. About eight kilometres ( ve miles) north is the Tsu Dome, the Sapporo community dome, where you will nd snow slides and a snow ra ing area

where you can have a snow-ice experience.

From Sapporo, board the JR Limited Express Super Ozora train for a four and a half hour scenic ride east, to Kushiro. Kushiro is best known for the Kushiro Marshes, Japan’s largest marshland that is a haven for wildlife. e scenic marshes teem with over 600 species of plants as well as animal life. e marshes are fed by the Kushiro River which originates from Lake Kussharo to the north and slowly snakes south through the marshes for over 150 kilometres (93 mi).

e marshes are a big drawcard for birdwatchers as this is one of the few places where you can see the magni cent tancho, Japan’s rare, iconic, and enchanting red-crowned cranes. In Japanese culture, the tancho has a long history and is o en depicted in poetry, paintings, and other

forms of art. To watch their elegant courtship dances in the snow is a beautiful sight to behold.

At the turn of the 20th century, the tancho were believed to be extinct until a few were discovered in the Kushiro Marshes in 1924. Under a well-maintained protection programme, the crane population has now risen to about 1,000 individuals.

ere are a couple of feeding stations set up during winter which the birds visit in large numbers. It is hard to say which are the best, as it all depends on where

the cranes decide to visit. Try the Tsurui Ito Tancho Crane Sanctuary, the Akan International Crane Center, or the nearby Otowa Bridge for a view of the sleeping cranes shrouded in the morning mist. Among the cranes you may nd whooper swans and even some Steller’s sea eagles in winter.

While having your own transportation is ideal, there are infrequent public buses to some of the sites, such as the Akan Bus that departs from the Kushiro Station bus terminal to the nearby Kushiro Wetlands Observatory, and the Akan International

Crane Center. Taking the bus will require much of the day. If time is limited, take a taxi to the nearest site, the Kushiro Marsh Observatory (about 15 minutes / 17 kilometres / 10.5 miles by car). e distance to the Akan International Crane Center is 33 kilometres (20 mi). On the way back, you can take the Akan Bus Tsurui Line to JR Kushiro station.

At the Hosooka Observatory, you can get some beautiful views of the marshes and the Kushiro River, or walk on the boardwalk at Onnenai to see the tanchos, herons, and smaller birds.

Kawayu Onsen Lake Kussharo

Ryokan Yunokaku Ikedaya

Yunokaku Ikedaya Ryokan provides comfortable accommodation with a restaurant and free WiFi. Private parking is provided. A hot spring bath and bicycle rental service are available for guests.

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KAWAYU ONSEN

This sleepy onsen town with a very warming heart is idyllic in winter.

At Kushiro train station we take the JR Semmo Line for a one hour and 42 minute ride north to cover the 90 kilometres (56 mi) to Kawayu Onsen station. e small town of Kawayu Onsen has been described as a “geological thermal wonder” located on the Oto River, a tributary of the Kumanogawa River. “Kawa” means “river” and “yu” means “hot water”. In town, hot spring water bubbles to the surface of the crystal clear river. e town o ers a variety of ryokan (traditional Japanese inn), minshuku (Japanese-style bed and breakfasts), hotels, and several quaint restaurants.

One of the best ways to enjoy a cold winter’s night at Kawayu Onsen is to soak in a pool that you dug by yourself while watching the warm mist from the river rising slowly into the air. Head for the Sennin-buro river bath. “Sennin” means “one thousand people” and “buro” is a bath. “Sennin” also means “mountain man” or “immortal mountain hermit”, a mysterious

character that lives in the mountains. is large natural hot bath measures about 40 metres (131 ) by 15 metres (49 ) with a depth of 60 centimetres (24 in) on average.

e hot water fountains at the bath are about 70 degrees Celsius (158 Fahrenheit) as they emerge from the ground, but are then cooled down by the cold river water to about 40 degrees Celsius (104 Fahrenheit). Depending on the river ows, the water temperature varies, so you can walk around the bath and nd a comfortable water temperature. On some days the bathing area is lit with lamps and strings of small lights.

e town also has a few free foot-baths right by the side of the street which is a nice way to warm up your cold feet.

Just over three kilometres (1.9 mi) west of the town are the Iozan sulphurous steam vents that are part of an active volcano. As you approach the area you will hear loud hissing noises coming from the bright yellow sulphur mounts and the strong pungent smell of sulphur in the air. e area was used for sulphur mining during the Meiji era (1868 to 1912).

Nearby Mount Iozan is a 512 metre (1,680 ) high active volcano sitting inside the giant Kussharo caldera and is the source of the hot springs in the area, such as Kawayu Onsen. Mount Iozan’s name literally means “sulphur mountain”. e local Ainu people called it “atosanupuri,” which means “naked mountain.” e mountain is characterized as such because the surface is bare and has a reddish-brown colour.

Whooper swans at Sunayu, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido.

LAKE KUSSHARO

Japan’s largest caldera lake is blessed with white-feathered visitors in winter.

While the sulphur vents and hot springs of Kawayu are good enough reasons to visit the area, we came here in search of the feathered visitors from Siberia, Russia.

About eight kilometres ( ve miles) to the west of town lies Sunayu on the eastern shores of Lake Kussharo, a large caldera lake in Akan National Park. Sunayu means “a place that sand gushes out” in the local Ainu language, and makes reference to the hot springs that ooze out from the sandy beach on the lakeside.

While parts of the lake freeze over in winter, this is one area where the warm hot springs keep the lake free of ice, the perfect

bathing spot not only for the lone human bather in the small rock-pool but also for the swans along the shore.

e whooper swans (pronounced hooper), are one of the heaviest ying birds weighing in the range of eight to 11 kg (18 – 25 lbs). e heaviest whooper swan was recorded at 15 kg (34 lbs).

ey spend most of their time in the Siberian Arctic before migrating as far south as Japan in the winter. It is quite a sight to see so many of these white swans on the lake, with the snowy mountains of the Akan National Park in the background.

Kussharo Kotan Ainu Folklore Museum. Step inside this interesting little museum’s replica of an Ainu house, to learn more about the culture and traditions of the Ainu people who are indigenous to northern Japan.

Lake Kussharo is home to focking white swans from Siberia, as well as hot springs and omiwatari ice ridges, all living side-by-side at the edges of the lake.

According to one of several theories, the Ainu are descendants of Mongolian migrants who entered the Japanese islands before the period 13000 BC to 300 BC. Most of Japan’s remaining 24,000 indigenous Ainu population is concentrated in Hokkaido. Note that the museum is closed between November and May.

A little further down the road lies the Ikeno-yu hot spring, also owing into the lake, and therefore another favourite spot for the swans. Further south on the south bank of Lake Kussharo is the Teshikaga

While this was a small scratch on the surface of Japan in winter, feel free to come back time a er time to enjoy the beauty of Japan! GR

Getting There

From Tokyo’s Narita and Haneda international airports it is easy to fy to northern Japan, either to Sendai Airport or further north to Hokkaido’s New Chitose Airport in Sapporo. Sapporo is in Japan’s northern winter-wonder-world on Hokkaido Island, however, winter snow covers much of Japan so arrive at any of Japan’s airports to experience it for yourself.

When to Go

While any time is a great time to visit Japan, the most beautiful seasons are spring (for the cherry blossoms and other fowers), autumn (for the brilliant red foliage), and of course winter - the most beautiful time. Best is late winter (January and February) when the ice is well-formed.

Dining Out

Food is the third most expensive item in Japan, after accommodation and transportation. However, when you follow a few cost-saving tips you will fnd that the food is not so expensive. A good start to eating cheap is to avoid serviced restaurants and touristy areas. Go where the locals eat.

Getting Around Photography

For long-distance travel it is faster and often cheaper to fy. Alternatively, travel by train, but to save signifcantly on train tickets, buy a Japan Rail Pass before arriving in Japan. Discounted tourist rail passes are not sold in Japan. The rail pass often is cheaper than bus travel. For small groups, it is cheaper to rent a vehicle, though highway tolls are expensive.

Japan is a playground for photographers. Here you will fnd an immense variety of photographic equipment though prices are not always cheaper than online purchases in your own country. Japan is a very photogenic country which includes pristine natural scenery, wildlife, temples, cultural events, sports events, festivals, and even perfect fruits and vegetables!

Where to Stay Safety

Japan has accommodation to ft all budgets, albeit on the high side compared to the rest of Asia. If you have a seriously tight budget, try couch surfng or stay in a dorm or capsule hotel, some of which will only cost about US$20 per person per night.

Packing

Summers are very hot and winters are brutally cold. If you go to Zao Mountain in northern Honshu to see the “snow monsters” in January, expect minus 15° Celsius (5°F), or even colder. Winter in Japan could be the coldest winter you have ever experienced.

As one of the safest countries in the world, there is no need to worry about any aspect of security. Theft and robberies are unheard off, while safety on the roads and on public transport is better than almost anywhere in the world. Follow regular safety rules and everything will be fne.

Cost of Travel

Japan is one of the most expensive countries in which to travel. However, If you are well informed on how to save money, you will fnd that Japan is not as expensive as you thought. Be smart and take advantage of discounted online bookings. Make sure to buy your JR Railway Pass before arriving.

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Winter Activities in Japan

Japan’s winter wonderland offers a variety of activities that will appeal to everybody who appreciates the beauty of snow and ice, and everything that goes with it. For adventurous visitors, Japan has some of the world’s best ski resorts renowned for their powdery snow. Cross-country skiing and hiking are popular in the forests. If you are into photography, you will fnd ample opportunities, in particular the tancho cranes and whooper swans. When it is time to relax, soak in a hot spring with a glass of hot sake wine!

Zao Dai Rotenburo Hot Springs 1

Soaking in a Japanese hot spring is the reason why many people visit during winter. There is nothing more invigorating than sinking into the hot mineral waters, in particular when it is an outdoor natural bath, and even more special if snow is falling. Sip on a glass of hot sake and you will be in heaven!

One of the best experiences can be found at Zao Onsen on the slopes of the volcanic Mount Zao, located 400 km (248 mi) north of Tokyo. Zao Dai Rotenburo outdoor baths are located right in the hot and highly sulphuric mountain streams, surrounded by lush forests. This area gets a lot of snow which creates a stunning winter wonder world.

Zao Snow Monsters 2

Hokkaido Snow Festival 3 Tancho Cranes 4

Mount Zao in northern Honshu Island is famous for its “snow monsters” that come alive in mid-winter. Zao is one of only a few places in Japan where the juhyo (ice trees) can be seen. It is as if almost every tree, hardly recognisable as a tree by mid-winter, takes on the shape of a human, complete with facial features, blowing hair, hats, wide dresses, and limbs.

The “snow monsters” live around the peak of Zao Ski Resort and are usually at their most spectacular about midFebruary.

Hokkaido Island offers some of the best snow and ice festivals in Japan. At the Tomamu Ski Resort you will fnd a beautifully created ice village that is illuminated at night with colourful lights.

However, the frst prize must go to the annual Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) in the Hokkaido capital. The massive snow and ice sculptures are meticulously created by teams of artists and then illuminated with thousands of small light bulbs. The 2020 festival will be held from the 4th to 11th of February.

Whether you are a photographer or a bird lover — or neither — you will appreciate the beauty of these majestic feathered friends prancing on the snow.

Japan’s rare, iconic, and enchanting redcrowned cranes, locally known as the tancho have been intertwined with Japanese culture throughout the ages. Depicted in Japanese poetry, paintings, and other forms of art, the tancho is highly revered. Congregating on the snow-covered marshes of Hokkaido’s Kushiro area, they are a must-visit during their winter courtship.