GlobeRovers Magazine Dec 2020

GlobeRovers

Feature Article

10 Siberia’s Lake Baikal in Winter

Siberia, known in Russia as “land of mystery and silence”, is nearly incomprehensible in size. The region is rich in natural resources, diverse ecologies, and is blessed with a unique natural beauty. In the southern part, near the border with Mongolia, lies Lake Baikal, the world’s deepest freshwater lake containing about a ffth of the world’s fresh surface water. During the brutally cold Siberian winters, the lake and its environs are transformed into a winter wonderworld. In addition to the frozen lake, the surrounding area offers many attractions.

ARTICLES + PHOTO ESSAYS

Arctic Norway Adventures

Arctic Norway is best known for its landscapes of rocky islands, majestic ords, massive glaciers, glacial lakes, thunderous waterfalls, quaint shing villages, and dramatic coastlines. Any time of the year is a good time to visit, though the snowcovered landscapes are truly magical.

Tibet - Roof of the World

Located south of China in the Himalaya Mountains, Tibet is perched on the highest plateau in the world. With Tibetan Buddhism ingrained in everyday life, the country is known for its many historic and colourful temples and monasteries as well as stunning mountain scenery.

Brazil’s State of Bahia

e Brazilian State of Bahia is one of the country’s most scenic states known for its Afro-Brazilian culture and idyllic beaches. Pelourinho, the historic centre of its capital, Salvador da Bahia, was named a World Heritage Site in 1985 by UNESCO.

West Africa Odyssey

Travelling through West Africa is a challenge which many travellers are not willing to confront. ose who do, are rewarded with many stories and photos. We follow the journey of a brave American traveller whose journey was cut short by the Covid-19 pandemic.

OTHER SECTIONS

CONTRIBUTIONS

inFocus: Alexey Trofmov

Meet the Photographer: Gabriele Stoia

South Australia’s Gawler Ranges

The Valuable International Volunteer

Wild Horses of the American West

Gyeongju: Museum without Walls

REGULAR FEATURES

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Traveller’s Treats

Postcards to Mommy

Traveller in the Spotlight

Book Review

TOP LISTS

10 Experiences Around Lake Baikal

9 Places to visit in 2021

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Iceland’s Ring Road

Iceland is truly unique. Route 1, also known as the Ring-Road, follows the coastline all around Iceland and brings travellers within reach of some of the most scenic natural wonders on this planet.

Relaxing on the frozen surface of Lake Baikal, Siberia, Russia

THE FRONT COVER:

Frozen Lake Baikal, Siberia, Russia

Photographer: Peter Steyn

GlobeRovers Magazine

is currently a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe to the intrepid traveller.

Published in Hong Kong

Printed in U.S.A. and Europe

WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Director - Tsui Chi Ho

Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn

Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

Proofreader - Marion Halliday

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Distribution - Leon Ringwell

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Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien

John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings trilogy’.

Dear Readers,

In this 16th issue of GlobeRovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations for your reading enjoyment.

e feature destination is Lake Baikal, located in southern Siberia (Russia), near the border with Mongolia. is is the world’s deepest freshwater lake and also the largest lake by volume—holding roughly 20% of the planet’s freshwater supply. Winter is a great time to visit and experience this icy wonderland.

We also visit the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, with its many monasteries and temples, and then travel by road along the Tibetan high plateau to Everest Base Camp. To break away from the cold in Siberia and Tibet, it is time to head southwest along the rugged roads of West Africa to explore Mauritania, Senegal, Burkina Faso, Mali, and e Gambia. We also visit the South Korean city of Gyeongju, known for its many National Treasures, including the Bulguksa Temple and royal tombs.

Photo Essays include Arctic Norway and Brazil’s Bahia State.

We also present the South Australian outback’s rugged roads and rhyolites a er a rare rainfall at Mount Ive Station, a guide to volunteering, and an article about the American Wild Horse Campaign.

A special thank you to our sponsors as well as all our wonderful contributors who we introduce on page 5. Visit our website and social media. For easy access, scan the QR codes on page 7. Feedback to editor@ globerovers.com.

We travel so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn, PhD Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

THE FRONT COVER

Frozen Lake Baikal Siberia, Russia

CONTRIBUTORS

A very special thank you to our awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, GlobeRovers Magazine just wouldn’t be the same!

Peter Steyn, Hong Kong (pages 10, 56, and 130)

Peter is an avid explorer who always tries to travel off the map to unexplored destinations. He has photographed over 122 countries and is totally in love with Japan, Russia, Iceland, Central Asia, South Africa, and other exciting places. He is the Editor-in-Chief of GlobeRovers Magazine.

Alexey Trofimov, Bratsk, Siberia, Russia (page 48)

Alexey is a much respected photographer based in Siberia, Russia. Born in the Siberian of city of Bratsk, he is not only a well-published photographer, but he also leads photographic tours around Siberia, with a focus on Lake Baikal and Mongolia.

Nellie Huang, Amsterdam, The Netherlands (page 76)

Nellie is a high-profle travel writer and blogger with special interest in unusual destinations and experiences. She has travelled to over 140 countries across 7 continents, including the Arctic and Antarctica. Her work has appeared in BBC Travel, CNN and Lonely Planet.

Gabriele Stoia, Siem Riep, Cambodia (page 100)

Gabriele Stoia is an Italian expat who has lived in Cambodia since 2012. He is the owner and CEO of In Asia Travel (www.inasiatravel.com), a tour operator specialising in private tailor-made tours in Southeast Asia and Central Asia.

Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 120)

Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering naturebased attractions and activities – and scenic loos – all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and published book “Aussie Loos with Views” provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.

Claire Bennett, Kathmandu, Nepal (page 126)

Claire lives and works in Kathmandu, Nepal, and freelances as a trainer and consultant. She is passionate about global education, ethical travel and ensuring good intentions are put to good use. She is co-author of Learning Service: The Essential Guide to Volunteering Abroad.

Amelia Perrin, Northern California, USA (page 140)

Amelia is a life long equestrian who specializes in the communications and science programs at the American Wild Horse Campaign. Her focus is public education, increasing awareness of the plight of wild horses and advancing technology for their humane management in the wild.

Craig Thompson, Pattaya, Thailand (page 144)

Craig retired from the high tech world in 2002 and has been traveling 5 to 6 months every year since then. Visiting 127 countries along the way, he is quite a travel addict. He lives in Thailand with his wife of 18 years.

Steven Kennedy, Kent, United Kingdom (page 154)

Steve is a PR professional and founder of the World Complete travel blog that documents his attempts to visit every corner of the globe... eventually. Through his accounts he hopes to pass on a few helpful hints and tips for other travellers along the way.

Sophy Roberts, Dorset, United Kingdom (page 174)

Sophy is British writer whose work focuses on travel and conservation. She is a graduate of Oxford University and the Columbia School of Journalism. Her critically acclaimed frst book, The Lost Pianos of Siberia, was published by Doubleday in 2020.

The GlobeRovers‛ World

GlobeRovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.

It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has visited over 122 countries and is poised to explore East Africa and Mongolia in the near future. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.

Afghanistan

Albania

Andorra

Argentina

Armenia

Australia

Austria

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Bahrain

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Belize

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Brazil

Brunei

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Cambodia

Canada

Chile

China

Colombia

Costa Rica

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Cuba

Cyprus

Czech Rep.

Denmark

Ecuador

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El Salvador

Estonia

Finland

France

Georgia

Germany

Greece

Greenland

Guatemala

Honduras

Hong Kong

Hungary

Iceland

India

Indonesia

Iran

Ireland

Israel

Italy

Japan

Jordan

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Kosovo

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Laos

Latvia

Lebanon

Lesotho

Liechtenstein

Lithuania

Luxembourg

Macau

Macedonia

Malaysia

Maldives

Malta

Mauritius

Mexico

Moldova

Monaco

Montenegro

Morocco

Myanmar / Burma

Namibia

Nepal

Netherlands

New Zealand

Nicaragua

North Korea

Norway

Oman

Pakistan

Panama

Papua New Guinea

Paraguay

Peru

Philippines

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Portugal

Romania

Russia

San Marino

Serbia

Singapore

Slovakia

Slovenia

South Africa

South Korea

Spain

Sri Lanka

Swaziland

Sweden

Switzerland

Syria

Taiwan

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Thailand

Timor Leste (East Timor)

Turkey

Ukraine

United Arab Emirates

United Kingdom

United States

Uruguay

Uzbekistan

Vanuatu

Vatican

Vietnam

Yemen

Zambia

Zimbabwe

122 and counting..

DESTINATIONS IN THIS ISSUE

Use a QR Reader App on your phone (older models) or just your camera (newer models) to read these codes

Siberia, Russia

FROZEN

LAKE BAIKAL, SIBERIA, RUSSIA

A day out on frozen Lake Baikal is a day well spent. Lie fat on the ice and listen to the sounds of the constant cracking ice. Look through the ice and you may see some fsh.

SOUTHERN SIBERIA RUSSIA

ANGARA RIVER

IRKUT RIVER

IRKUTSK CITY

LISTVYANKA

LAKE BAIKAL

OLKHON ISLAND

Hovercraft Route

ARSHAN Circum-Baikal Railway Lakeshore Route

Russia

Siberia’s LAKE BAIKAL

Lake Baikal, the pearl of southern Siberia, is surrounded by mountains, forests and rivers with an immense and diverse natural beauty. The winter scenery is truly spectacular!

Glorious Sea, Sacred Baikal, is the name of a well-known Siberian folk song based on a poem dating back to the mid-1850s. With lyrics by the Russian poet, Dmitriy Davidov, it is believed that the music was composed by prisoners of Russia’s Nerchinsk gold-mines.

e song praises the cool winds blowing from the northern Barguzin Mountain Range; the beauty of the cold, clear waters of Siberia’s Lake Baikal; and the tasty endemic omul sh that have been living in these icy waters for millions of years.

Siberia, known in Russia as “the land of mystery and silence”, is nearly incomprehensible in size. It brims with natural resources, diverse ecologies, unmatched natural beauty, and is home to several ethnic groups with colourful cultures.

to enjoy the activities and scenery around Lake Baikal, winter is unquestionably the most magical time. From around mid-December to late-March, the winter wonderland created on and around the lake is spectacular, and that is a massive understatement!

Even though most visitors, locals and foreigners alike, come to see Lake Baikal, the wider area o ers many incredible landscapes, snowcapped mountains, dense forests, endemic wildlife, traditional architecture, colourful festivals, exquisite cuisines, mineral hot springs, and even a city full of attractions.

Lake Baikal is considered by many locals to be their ‘sacred Siberian sea with crystal clear water’.

In 1996, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site

We start our winter journey in the regional capital, Irkutsk, to explore the architecture, its many orthodox churches and cathedrals, museums, art galleries, parks, markets, restaurants, and of course the wide variety of Russian vodkas.

In the southern part of Siberia, near the border with Mongolia, lies Lake Baikal. Baikal is the world’s deepest freshwater lake and also the largest lake by volume—holding roughly 20% of the planet’s freshwater supply.

Defying its massive volume of water, Lake Baikal freezes over during the bitterly cold Siberian winters when the lake’s surface is covered with a thick layer of ice. Towards the end of winter many roads criss-cross the frozen lake, connecting its islands to the lakeshore.

While any time of the year is a great time

From Irkutsk, we travel northeast along Lake Baikal to spend a few days exploring Olkhon, the largest of Baikal’s islands. While Olkhon o ers countless opportunities to be mesmerized by the beauty created by its frozen waters, it is also a great place to experience the culture and food of the local Buryat people.

We then head south to the town of Listvyanka at the mouth of the Angara River along the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Here we board a hovercra on the frozen lake and slowly sweep northeast along the upper lakeshore to the impressive Peschanaya

Words and Photography by Peter Steyn

Bay to be enthralled by the winter wonderland and clear ice on the lake.

At the mouth of the Angara River lies Port Baikal, which is where train-lovers disembark the historic Circum-Baikal Railway train a er a scenic ride along the lakeshore all the way from Slyudyanka at the southwestern tip of the lake. is area, as well as other areas along the lake, has several hiking trails which o er ample opportunities to enjoy the forests and lakeshore.

ere is no better way to end a Siberian winter odyssey than by soaking in the thermal springs near Arshan village, nestled in the scenic Tunka Valley at the foot of the snow-covered Sayan Mountain Range.

HISTORY OF IRKUTSK

Irkutsk dates back to the late 17th century when the frst fortress was erected.

The rst Russian settlement at the location of today’s city of Irkutsk was in 1661 when the Russian pioneer Yakov Pokhabov, led by Tungus (native Siberian) guides, erected his small wooden fort (called an ostrog) on the eastern banks of the Angara River opposite the mouth of the Irkut River.

Pokhabov, a Cossack, was tasked with exploring southern Siberia and the easiest way to get the job done was via the rivers.

Upon arrival, he met with the local indigenous Evenk people, native Siberians belonging to a Mongol ethnic clan. He decided to call the river “Irkut”, meaning “fast- owing waters” in the Evenk language, although some people claim that the name Irkut was derived from the Buryat word for “spinning” (likely the spinning of the owing river). At the time of his arrival, these rivers were much larger and strongerowing than what we can see today.

Pokhabov’s new fort, which he named Irkutsk, stood for just eight years before it was demolished. In its place, a much larger fortress was built which became known as the Irkutsk Kremlin. Seventeen years later, in 1686, the settlement of Irkutsk was awarded city status.

During the 18th century the city grew fast, though occasionally hampered by res which all too frequently destroyed the wooden buildings. One of the most destructive res raged in 1879, at which time Irkutsk had become a place of exile for the rebels who resisted the autocracy of the Russian Tsar. e re destroyed almost the entire historical centre of the city. So signi cant was it, that people subsequently talked about Irkutsk’s history “before the re” and “a er the re”. Even the wooden Irkutsk Kremlin was mostly destroyed and later demolished.

Of great importance to the city was the arrival of the Trans-Siberian Railway line in 1898 which markedly boosted the city’s status as a major centre for trade between Russia and China, and brought in much wealth.

Unfortunately, the wealth brought in through trade was not shared by all and the division between the rich and the poor was clearly visible by the beginning of the 20th century. is led to massive worker strikes in 1903 and again in 1905. A er the newly formed Soviet Union tried to control the city in 1919-1920, bloody battles followed. e Bolsheviks of Lenin regained control in 1920 soon a er the Red Army rmly established Soviet power in Irkutsk.

e Second World War recruited about 20,000 Irkutsk residents, with less than half of them surviving.

By the 1990s the city had become the industrial centre of Siberia and while today it remains the region’s industrial centre, the beauty of nearby Lake Baikal and the mountains have developed the area into a tourist hotspot. Russians from all over the country come to Irkutsk to enjoy the lake, its islands, the mountains, hot springs, and the Siberian cuisine.

THE PEOPLE OF IRKUTSK

Modern-day Irkutsk is a melting pot of people from across the region.

Modern-day Irkutsk is a multi-ethnic city with over 600,000 residents. Located at the cross-roads between Mongolia, China, and Russia, it has been a hub of cultural exchange for centuries.

While these cultural exchanges all but disappeared while China was under the oppressive rule of Mao Zedong, it ourished under the subsequent leadership of Deng Xiaoping when the inhabitants of poorer Chinese provinces would travel to Irkutsk to

Siberia’s Lake Baikal

The Buryat People

(Photo on this page: Jack Sheremetoff)

trade at the markets. Today Chinese middleclass tourists are taking the region by storm, bringing in much needed foreign currency.

e current population of Irkutsk and its surrounding land is mostly comprised of ethnic Russians with a few native tribal groups. Russians and other Slavic/ Germanic groups make up 93.5% of the population, while Buryats account for about 3.3%. Other minority groups include Soyots and Evenks, as well as Tofalars (Tofs) who developed from the intermingling of various clans of Turkic, Mongolic, Yeniseian and Samoyedic origins.

e Buryat ethnic group, the largest cohesive entity among the native groups, is descended from Mongolians who settled in the Lake Baikal area a er the 12th century, and possibly even earlier. In search of green pastures for their sheep, they joined the indigenous Evenks and Tunguts.

e majority of the Buryat population now live in their homeland, the Republic of Buryatia, a federal subject of Russia near Lake Baikal. e republic today has a population of over 970,000 people, with UlanUde as its capital. eir land stretches from beyond the lake’s northern tip, all along the eastern shore, well past the southern tip of the lake, and west to the slopes of the Sayan and Altai Mountains.

While Buryats share many customs with other Mongols, including nomadic herding and erecting gers for shelter, today most of them live in wooden houses, similar to the Russians. ose in the countryside still live a more traditional lifestyle.

ey speak a central Mongolic language called Buryat, and like the Mongols, have adopted the Cyrillic alphabet. While the Buryats and Mongols can understand each other, their language is markedly dif-

CITY of IRKUTSK SIBERIA

ferent from the Russian language.

Buryats have traditionally practised shamanism, with a focus on the worship of nature. Today, faith in the Republic of Buryatia is divided between Russian Orthodoxy, the Tibetan branch of Buddhism, and the non-religious.

Shamanism has undergone a revival in rural areas since Soviet repression, however, it is still not widely practiced. Once a year during the summer, shamans gather on Olkhon Island for the International Shamanic Conference and Tailgan.

See page 48 for photos by Siberian photographer, Alexey Tro mov.

The Buryat People

(Photos on this page: Alexey Trof mov)

Hotel Irkut

In the heart of the historic Siberian town of Irkutsk.

~

Gateway to Lake Baikal ~

hotel-irkut.ru/eng

7 Proletarskaya str. Irkutsk

8.7 4/5

Tel: +7 (395-2) 33-15-15

+7 (395-2) 24-23-32

hotel-irkut@bk.ru

Located in the city centre of Irkutsk, just a 5-minute walk from Kirova Park, Hotel Irkut features a shared lounge and 24-hour front desk. The Angara River Embankment is just 500 metres away.

Hotel Irkut is 3 km from Irkutsk Passazhirskiy Train Station, and 11 km from Irkutsk International Airport. Irkutsk Bus Station is a 20-minute walk away.

ATTRACTIONS OF IRKUTSK

Irkutsk city and the surrounding areas are packed with many attractions.

Irkutsk is a year-round destination with enough activities available to keep even the most seasoned travellers occupied for several days.

While the daily mean temperature in summer (May to August) hovers around 20 degrees Celsius (68°F), in the middle of

winter (December, January and February) temperatures can plummet to well below minus 20 degrees Celsius (-4°F).

Most visitors in winter come here to explore frozen Lake Baikal as well as the nearby hot springs and snow covered mountains. But the best time to explore the city is during the warmer months.

e city is known for its imposing Orthodox churches, but it also o ers a variety of history and art museums, galleries, historical houses, gardens and squares, a bustling central market, as well as several statues and monuments.

HISTORICAL WOODEN HOUSES

Over the years, the city has maintained many of its historical buildings among those that were not destroyed by the res. Look out for the neoclassical nobleman houses among the many colourful twostorey wooden houses.

Many of these houses were built in the 19th century by exiled intellectuals who ocked to the city a er their revolt against Tsar Nicholas I. ey brought with them a delicate taste for art and architecture.

While most of these houses are now privately owned and home to residents, a few are open to the public. Among the most notable are the Sukhachev Manor, the Volkonsky Manor, and the Trubetskoy Manor.

Photos below: Wooden houses of Irkutsk

RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS

e histories of Irkutsk and Orthodoxy are inextricably linked to the city’s Cossack founders who arrived here in the 17th century.

ey brought with them Orthodox icons, banners, crosses, and prayer books. ey immediately built chapels and humble shrines, then later temples and elaborate Orthodox cathedrals: rst wooden, then stone.

A er the revolution, most of the religious buildings were con scated by the Soviets. Many were destroyed or damaged beyond recognition and some were used as workers’ hostels, warehouses, and for a variety of other purposes.

Eventually, the Soviet authorities returned some buildings in Irkutsk to restore the national spirit. Donations from believers went to the restoration and also the construction of new churches, shrines and chapels. At the end of the period of persecution, the services were reinstated and during the early 1990s people began to be baptized in droves.

Today’s Irkutsk is proudly home to many glorious religious buildings attesting to its rich past and present.

1) Spasskaya Tserkov

Located in the historic part of Irkutsk close to Memorial Park and its eternal ame, is the Spasskaya Tserkov (Church of the Saviour). e rst building was a wooden church that existed until 1716, when a re destroyed it.

From the ashes of the wooden church, a new stone building arose with the help of wealthy residents. Over the centuries the stone church has endured several onslaughts such as res, earthquakes, and long years of neglect and devastation under Soviet rule.

Next to the church in the Cathedral Square is a small chapel. Under the chapel is a crypt in the shape of a dodecahedron (with twelve at sides) which is three metres (10 ) high. e crypt’s concrete racks contain the remains of some of the city’s rst inhabitants which were found during church repair works between 2008 and 2011.

2) Sobor Bogoyavlensky Cathedral

Located on the banks of the Angara River and across the street from the Spasskaya Tserkov, is the Bogoyavlensky Cathedral. Also known as the Epiphany Cathedral, it has one of the most expressive architectural styles of all the monuments in Irkutsk. e original wooden structure was built in 1693 but was destroyed in the same re of 1716 which consumed the Spasskaya Tserkov across the street. Two years a er the re, the construction of a stone church began which was eventually completed 13 years later.

e new church stood for about half a century until it was severely damaged by an earthquake. e quake destroyed the bell tower and cracked one of the domes which was later removed.

Under Soviet rule, all divine services were halted in 1934 and the cathedral was forced to close its doors. e building re-

Photos below: Spasskaya Tserkov

mained shut until the 1980s when restoration started. e newly restored building is famous for its facades that are decorated with multi-coloured glazed tiles adorned with images of Biblical characters, owers and mythical animals. Its bell, which dates back to 1797, weighs more than 12 tonnes (13 US tons).

3) The Roman Catholic Church

In the same vicinity as the Spasskaya Tserkov and the Bogoyavlensky Cathedral is a neo-Gothic-styled Polish-built church known as the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption. e original building on

this site was a small wooden church built in 1825 by a handful of Irkutsk’s Catholic settlers—probably no more than 300 souls. It was enlarged in 1855 but burned down during another large city re in July 1879.

A new brick building was built by the Polish community, which they dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. e cathedral has a magni cent interior with arches, carved wood, lacquered benches, and a harmonium (small organ) imported from the USA in 1896. e Soviets closed the church in 1938. Since 1978 the building has been used as the Organ Hall of the Irkutsk Philharmonic Orchestra.

The Roman Catholic Church

Photos below: Sobor Bogoyavlensky Cathedral

4) Kazansky Church

Located about three kilometres (1.9 mi) east of the historical centre across the Reku Ushakovka River, is one of the most beautiful churches in Irkutsk. e Kazansky Church is also known as the Kazan Church and the Church of Our Lady of Kazan.

Its salmon-pink walls and uoro-turquoise domes topped with gold bauble-like crosses are spectacular.

Construction of the church started in 1885 and lasted for seven years. In 1936 it su ered the same fate as many churches of Russia as it was closed to church services and used for many purposes such as warehousing which signi cantly damaged the interior.

In the late 1980s some restorations were

initiated though most renovation works took place between 1990 and 2012. Today the church, with its Byzantine style decorations, resembles a fairy palace. It is known for having Irkutsk’s largest church bell.

e interior is decorated with elaborate fresco paintings. Its unique iconostasis (a wall of icons and religious paintings) was carved out of Indian granite by Chinese cra smen, weighs 70 tonnes (77 US tons), and stands 13 metres (43 ) high.

5) Archangel Michael Church

Located 1.4 kilometres (0.87 mi) south of Memorial Park is the Archangel Michael Church of Kharlampy. e church is also locally referred to as the “Sea Church” even though Irkutsk is about 2,000 kilometres (1,243 mi) away from Russia’s east coast.

Photos on this page: Kazansky Church

As Irkutsk was once the largest city to Russia’s east coast, many sea voyages began here. Before starting the long overland journey to the coast, sailors rst visited this church to get blessings for their expedition and hence it was referred to as the “Sea Church”.

e church is famous for being the place where Admiral Alexander Kolchak, who became the Supreme Ruler of Russia in the 1918-1919 time frame, got married

on March 5th, 1904 while he was a young lieutenant in the Imperial Navy. Less than 16 years a er his marriage, Admiral Kolchak was executed by the Bolsheviks who summarily dumped his body into the Ushakovka, a little rivulet of the Angara River.

6) Krestovozdvizhenskaya Tserkov

Further south of the historic city, close to the trendy area referred to as 130

Kvartal, is the Exaltation of the Holy Cross Church, locally known as Krestovozdvizhenskaya Tserkov.

e church is one of the oldest of Irkutsk’s Orthodox churches and a distinctive landmark of Siberian Baroque style.

Construction of the church started in 1747 and was completed by the end of 1760. e building was the crown masterpiece of the Siberian baroque style which has been taught at the local school of

architecture since the mid 18th century.

Situated on a small hill close to the intersection of the city’s main streets, the church remains a dominant feature.

It is famous for its unique exterior design and its facades decorated with rich ornaments in uenced by local folk art.

Other places of worship worth visiting are the Znamensky Monastery, Prince Vladimir’s Church, Irkutsk Synagogue, and the Irkutsk Cathedral Mosque.

Photos below: Krestovozdvizhenskaya Tserkov

Archangel Michael Church

Ice sculptures at Krestovozdvizhenskaya

MUSEUMS AND THE FINE ARTS

Irkutsk, as one of the largest cities in Siberia, is the cultural centre of the region with no shortage of museums, galleries, and theatrical performances.

e city has well over 30 museums. Among the more quirky museums are the Museum of the Passenger Car Depot, the Moto Retro Techniques Museum, Museum of Hunting, Museum of Optics and Optical Illusions, and the Museum of Medicinal Herbs and Minerals.

ere are several art galleries around town. e Irkutsk Museum of Fine Arts holds the biggest collection of art in the whole of Siberia. It includes paintings, sculptures and icons, but most importantly, a collection of folk art from the indigenous peoples of the area.

e Irkutsk Philharmonic Orchestra was founded in the 1850s. Since October 1950 concerts have taken place in the Con-

cert Hall of the Philharmonic Hall. Besides the Concert Hall there is an Organ Hall that was opened in 1978 in the building of the Polish Roman Catholic Church.

THE CENTRAL MARKET

A perfect start to exploring Irkutsk is to spend an early morning at its wellmaintained authentic central market.

is is a great place to nd local delicacies such as taiga herbs, cedar nuts, fruits and berries, home-made jams, fruit- (or herb) infused liquors, cold meats, and several endemic species of Siberian sh.

In addition to many kinds of fresh and packaged foods, the market has a good selection of clothing and accessories with most being imported from China and Mongolia. Even if you are not in the mood for buying anything, the market is a great place to see how the locals live their lives.

GARDENS AND SQUARES

At the centre of the historic part of the city is Speransky Square which lies inside Kirov Garden. e square has a long and interesting history. During the 17th and 18th centuries it was known as the Kremlin Square and was a bustling marketplace.

Today the Square is popular among the locals with its benches and a fountain. e fountain is the spot where the annual Christmas tree stands and where Maslenitsa (Pancake Week) is celebrated in March.

In winter, the entire park is adorned with ice sculptures as well as an ice-slide for the young at heart.

130 KVARTAL

e city has been famous for its wooden buildings, although many have been demolished or destroyed by res over

An ice sculpture at Kirov Square

Winter festival at Kirov Square

Central Market of Irkutsk

the years. An area south of the historic centre, called 130 Kvartal, was rebuilt with traditional Siberian wooden houses transported here from locations throughout the country. Some buildings are less authentic but were purposely designed to blend in.

130 Kvartal is a pleasant area to stroll around and enjoy the architecture, restaurants, a modern shopping mall, cafés and shops, while pretending you are in 18th century southern Siberia.

Guarding the northern entrance to 130 Kvartal on the square by Lenina street, is the large bronze statue of Babr (an old Russian word meaning ‘Siberian Tiger’).

e Babr symbol was outlawed during the Soviet era but to the delight of the locals it has been restored. Now you will nd many versions of the Babr throughout the city and it is also featured on Irkutsk’s municipal coat of arms.

STATUES AND MONUMENTS

With its Soviet past, the city has no shortage of statues and monuments. Adorning the Angara River’s western embankment at the end of Karl Marx Road, is a large statue of

Alexander III, which is a metal recast of the 1904 original copper. Alexander III is celebrated here as the only tsar ever to visit Irkutsk.

Along the northern embankment, just across the street from the Bogoyavlensky Cathedral, is the statue of the city’s founder, Yakov Pokhabov.

At the Znamensky Monastery is the statue of Admiral Kolchak who was executed by the Bolsheviks.

What would a Russian city be without a statue of Vladimir Lenin? Unveiled in 1952, you will nd his statue at the intersection of Lenin and Karl Marx Streets, a short distance to the southwest of the Archangel Michael Church of Kharlampy.

OUTSIDE OF TOWN

e islands of “Yunost” (Youth) and “Konny” (Equestrian) are located in the Angara River to the west of the city. Especially in summer, they o er pleasant areas for roller skating and cycling, and there is lots of space for picnics under the trees.

e open stage occasionally features musicians or hosts shows by street performers. e sports area is the place to play football or volleyball. e islands are connected by bridges to each other and with separate connections to the city.

e only surviving ship of the original icebreakers of Russia, the Angara, is docked at the wall of the Irkutsk Hydroelectric Power Station some eight kilometres (5 mi) south of the city’s historic centre.

e History of Navigation on Lake Baikal Museum opened in 1991 on the icebreaker. e exhibit shows models of the Baikal ships, historical photographs and documents relating to the Angara and navigation in the region.

Across the Angara River at the northern end of the historic centre is the nerpinary (sealarium). is is an ideal place, and maybe the only opportunity you will have, for a close encounter with the freshwater Baikal seal.

ere is another sealarium at the southern tip of Listvyanka along the shores of Lake Baikal, some 70 kilometres (43 mi) south of Irkutsk.

The statue of Babr at the entrance to 130 Kvartal

Some of the wooden houses in 130 Kvartal Irkutsk Sculpture Park Yakov Pokhabov

Changing of the guard at the Eternal Flame

BAIKAL’S UNFATHOMABLE FEATURES

Lake Baikal is one of the most intriguing lakes on planet earth.

Set deep within Russia’s Eastern Siberia near the Mongolian border, Lake Baikal is a superstar of superlatives in hydrology, geology, ecology and even in history. It is the deepest, oldest, and the most voluminous of all lakes on earth.

e lake rst appeared about 25 million years ago in a vast ri valley created by the divergence of the planet’s tectonic plates. Even in our modern times this ri valley experiences around 2,000 earthquake tremors annually which constantly increases the size of the lake as the shores dri farther apart by about 2 centimetres (0.78 in) each year.

It has been said that no lake is more “lake” than Lake Baikal. is is a true assessment when looking at a few of the

lake’s mind-boggling facts.

Lake Baikal is the deepest freshwater lake in the world and is also the largest lake by volume—holding over 23,000 cubic kilometres (5,517 cubic miles) of water.

e lake’s maximum depth is 1,632 metres (5,354 ) which lies 1,219 metres (4,000 ) below sea level. It has an average depth of 744 metres (2,442 ) and its whopping 31,722 square kilometre (12,248 sq mi) surface area is 455 metres (1,494 ) above sea level. e surface area of Lake Baikal is exceeded only by that of three of the ve North American Great Lakes (Superior, Huron, and Michigan).

While the lake’s maximum width is only 79.5 kilometres (49 mi), the crescent moon-shaped lake stretches for 640 kilometres (397 mi) in a northeastern direction from the town of Slyudyanka which is located 108 kilometres (67 mi) southwest of Irkutsk. e total coastline of the lake measures 2,100 kilometres (1,305 mi).

With this impressive size, it is not surprising that Lake Baikal contains some 20 percent of all the freshwater in the earth’s lakes and rivers, making it larger in volume than the entire Amazon basin.

Baikal’s total volume of water is approximately equivalent to all ve of the North American Great Lakes combined. So huge is Baikal that it reputedly takes an average of 330 years for a single water molecule to ow through it from an inlet in the far north to its only outlet (the Angara River) in the far south. e Selenga River owing north from Mongolia contributes nearly 50 percent of the lake’s water. is is an immense volume of water to be found in a single lake!

Wintertime around Lake Baikal is frigid and the water is icebound, even though the area is generally warmer than the rest of Siberia because the large body of water has a moderating force. Even so, the average winter air temperature is minus 21 degrees

Views over the vast frozen waters of Lake Baikal as seen from the Big Bell Tower Hill next to the village of Dyuny in Peschanaya Bay

Over 300 streams and rivers fow into Lake Baikal, but the only outlet is the Angara River which fows north into the Yenisei River and eventually into the Arctic Ocean

Celsius (-6°F) and during the Siberian cold snaps the temperature can drop as low as minus 40 degrees Celsius (-40°F) producing a layer of surface ice as thick as 1.5 metres (5 ). e lake is normally frozen over by early January until May.

As Lake Baikal is considered one of the clearest lakes in the world, the ice here is like crystal. e area is quite dry in winter, so in the absence of snow, the smooth frozen water looks surreal. is makes mid-winter the most magical time to see how the freezing waters have created the most incredible winter scenery on the lake and along the lakeshore.

During spring and early summer when the lake contains a large amount of melted snow from the surrounding mountains, it is possible to see more than 40 metres (131 ) down.

According to scientists, this unrivalled clarity is due to the melted snow’s purity, a lack of mineral salts in the lake, as well as the work done by Epischura baicalensis.

ese little fellows look like miniature cray sh, measuring 1.5 to 2 millimetres (0.06–0.08 in) in length, and feed on microscopic organic debris that would otherwise discolour the water and reduce visibility.

OLKHON ISLAND

Lake Baikal’s largest island is also the third largest lake-island in the world.

Lake Baikal is home to some 27 islands of which Olkhon Island is the largest. is long, thin island, which roughly resembles the shape of the lake, is 72 kilometres (45 mi) long and 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) across at its widest part. Its surface area covers 730 square kilometres (280 sq mi).

Olkhon is the world’s third-largest island in freshwater, a er Canada’s Manitoulin Island in Lake Huron and René-Levasseur Island in Quebec’s Manicouagan Reservoir.

While most of the lake’s islands are uninhabited, Olkhon has a population of about 1,500 people which expands during summer and peak tourist seasons.

e majority of the permanent residents

THE Lake AND ITS islands

live in ve small villages scattered around the island. Most people here work as shermen, farmers, or cattle-ranchers. However, due to an increasing number of national and foreign tourists, many residents are now employed in the tourism sector.

Olkhon is home mostly to the indigenous Buryats, many of whom practice shamanism and believe the island to be a highly spiritual place. e expression of their spirituality manifests itself in the form of many prayer ags and colourful ribbons that are wrapped around stupas, trees, and poles scattered around the island. According to local folklore, the winds carry spirits that read the believers’ prayers and wishes, which is the reason why these are always placed on the highest points available.

Villages on Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal

Hovercrafts on the lake

Lake Baikal and Olkhon Island play a central part in many locally created myths, and appears throughout Russian folklore

While on the island, you may be lucky to witness some of the shamanic rituals in their purest form! e best chance to experience them is during mid-summer when the island hosts the annual spiritual gathering that brings along the shamans. You can expect extended trance-inducing drumming sessions, the sprinkling of stones with milk brandy, and the hanging of multi-coloured ribbons on trees.

e village of Khuzhir, located on the western side of the island, is the administrative capital and home to about 1,200 residents. e village boasts the Khuzhir Museum of Local Lore, a few shops, churches, and several guesthouses. It is the ideal base for exploring the island to the north and the south.

e perfect guesthouse in Khuzhir is Nikita’s Homestead which is owned and

managed by Nikita and Natasha Bencharov. Born in 1960 in Usolie-Sibirskoye, a small town of the Irkutsk region, Nikita was a professional table tennis player who in 1986 won the All-Russia championships.

Nikita was the rst person to launch the tourism industry in Khuzhir when he moved here in 1989. Natalia, his wife, moved to Olkhon 16 years ago from Moscow. Both Nikita and Natasha speak English very well, while Nikita also speaks some Japanese.

For over 20 years, the Bencharov family have hosted travellers from all over the world at their homestead which is located just a ve-minute walk from the famous Burkhan Cape and its sacred Shamanka (Shaman’s Rock), its beautiful sandy beach, and many wooden poles adorned with prayer ags overlooking the lake.

Nikita’s Homestead o ers accommodation in typical Russian wooden houses. ere are two-room houses as well as houses for larger groups. While the houses are mostly heated with rewood burning in traditional iron stoves, they are also equipped with electric heaters.

e homestead o ers tasty and healthy home-made food in a large cosy dining room. ey serve ample meat dishes and their sh come straight from the clean waters of the lake. eir cooks reputedly can prepare at least 33 di erent dishes with omul sh!

While many dishes are traditional Siberian, some Buryat food is also available including buuza (Buryat steamed meat dumplings) and bukhler (lamb boiled in broth). On site is a cafe, Bistro Français, that mainly serves a selection of fresh

Photos above: Khuzhir village on Olkhon Island

Photos above: Nikita’s Homestead

pastries with co ee and tea.

e Homestead has two Russian banyas (steam baths) that come with traditional birch brooms for whisking your sauna buddies.

ese whisks release pleasant aromas in the steamy air adding therapeutic bene ts because the birch leaves contain a lot of tannins, vitamins, and essential oils. Massage is available upon request.

While the village is close to some spectacular scenery, the sta at Nikita’s Homestead can arrange day-trips on and o Olkhon Island. e island has so many scenic areas and most of these can be explored in two or three days.

Any time of the year is a great time to be here, though the mid-winter scenery is breathtakingly spectacular.

While staying in the village, try not to miss a single sunset from high above Shaman’s Rock. From the viewing point you will see thirteen tall poles guarding Shaman’s Rock. ese poles represent the thirteen deities of Olkhon. Each pole is wrapped with layers of ribbons called khadag

Pilgrims from around the world place the ribbons as part of a spiritual ritual. e colours symbolize di erent elements: red is for re, blue for sky, green for earth, yellow for religion, and the white represents milk.

Most Irkutsk-based travel agencies o er tour packages that include transport from the city to Khuzhir, island tours, meals and guides. While travelling on allinclusive tours certainly has bene ts and conveniences, it is possible to arrange all of these independently.

Mini-buses in Irkutsk are best prebooked and will pick up passengers at their hotels for the 6 to 7-hour journey to Khuzhir. e packages normally include the minibus ride and the boat-crossing in summer, or hovercra in mid-winter.

At Nikita’s Homestead it is easy to book day tours which can be private or shared with a few other like-minded travellers.

While restaurants in the village are scarce, there are a couple of small supermarkets, though dining is possible at most of the guesthouses.

e food, service, and atmosphere in the dining room at Nikita’s Homestead is top-notch. For more information about Nikita’s Homestead, see advertisement on page 28.

Photos above: Shaman Rock area at Khuzhir village, Olkhon Island

The bitterly cold and ferocious winds that sweep over Lake Baikal, along with the cycles of melting and refreezing of the ice and the expansion of the freezing waters sculpt out works of art. The undulating freezing surface ice creates caves with delicate stalactites and majestic stalagmites. Much of the beauty of Lake Baikal lies in the small details.

L ake Baikal, Siberia, Russia

Clear night skies overhead with stars like you’ve never seen before; tender breezes from Lake Baikal, spreading the scent of wildflowers; songs by the campfire; attention and courtesy, friendly folk from all over the world. It makes people want to return – again and again.

Nikita’s Homestead - Khuzhir Village, Olkhon Island

Our family is pleased to invite you to the island of Olkhon, the largest and the only inhabited island in Lake Baikal.

Welcome to Nikita Bencharov’s Homestead

Olkhon Island

Lake Baikal

Siberia, Russia

For over 20 years we, Nikita and Natalya Bencharov, have hosted tourists from all over the world at our homestead. As a family, working together with locals, we provide the care and attention lacking elsewhere. Located in the village of Khuzhir, our homestead is just a 5 minute walk from the famous Burkhan Cape and its beautiful sandy beach. The air and water are pristine, and the sun shines more than 300 days a year. Watered by occasional summer showers, our homestead comes to life with greenery and flowers from July until the September frosts. Guests are welcome in our homestead all year round.

8 Kirpichnaya Str., Khuzhir City, Olkhonsky District, Irkutsk Region, Russia

Website: olkhon.info

Tel: +7 (914) 895 78 65 (9:00-21:00 UTC+8)

natalia.bencharova@gmail.com

FAUNA AND FLORA

The region is rich in fauna and fora and home to the Baikal seal.

Lake Baikal is home to approximately 1,700 to 1,800 plant and animal species, of which about 80 percent are endemic, meaning they live nowhere else on the planet. e area is o en referred to as the “Galapagos of Russia” because of its biodiversity and importance to evolutionary science.

Among its endemic species of animals are the nerpa, also known as the Baikal seal (Phoca sibirica), the only exclusively freshwater seal in the world. Like the Caspian seal, it is related to the Arctic ringed seal. Scientists therefore suspect the Baikal seals may have swum down a prehistoric river from the Arctic.

It is estimated that there are about 100,000 Baikal seals living a comfortable existence, mostly in the north of the lake, without any natural predators. ese welladapted seals have stumped evolutionary biologists who can’t gure out exactly how they came to live in freshwater some 1,700 kilometres (1,060 mi) from the nearest ocean, China’s Yellow Sea. e only threat to their peaceful existence has been man who has long hunted them for their prized pelts and fatty meat.

e area is also home to brown bears, deer, elk, polecats, ermine (short-tailed weasel), sable, and wolves that dwell around the shores of the lake, as do a large variety of birds, rodents and smaller creatures.

More than 50 species of sh live in the lake, belonging to seven main families. e most numerous of these are the 25 species of gobies. e lake’s most famous sh is the omul, as well as the grayling, and sturgeon. Also unique to the lake is the oily, scaleless, golomyanka which gives birth to live young.

Omul (Coregonus migratorius) have long been the symbol of Lake Baikal, in addition to bread and vodka. e omul is a type of white sh species in the salmon family that nowadays mainly live in Lake

Baikal although in the distant past they were also found in high numbers in other rivers and lakes of the Ural mountain range which runs approximately north to south through western Russia.

ere are ve types of omul that di er morphologically and by their spawning areas—the ve tributaries of Baikal. eir eggs are deposited on the sandy and pebbly lake oor with moderate water- ows.

e development of its larvae lasts six to seven months. While a large number of the eggs will perish—either being buried deep under the silt or gobbled up by predators, those eggs that are lucky enough to hatch may live for 18 to 20 years.

It is well known that omul meat is very tasty and rich in vitamin B, zinc, and many other minerals. e sh is either eaten

freshly baked, fried, cooked, preserved by salting or frozen, although smoked omul is the most popular.

Once a year, Siberians gather in the lake-shore town of Listvyanka to celebrate the Omul Festival which is a gastronomic feast during which restaurants compete in preparing the best omul dishes such as the famous sagudai dish (raw salted sh) which is enjoyed with ample servings of vodka.

In October 2017, a er years of overshing, the Russian government imposed an extendable three-year moratorium on catching the omul. ese restrictions on omul shing are still in place today but exclude the indigenous communities living in the lake region of Buryatia. ese people are allowed to catch omul only for personal use, and restrictions apply to the size of catch, season of the year, and shing

Baikal seals

(Photos by Alexey Trofmov)

Scientists believe that the omul frst appeared in Lake Baikal during the Ice Age

equipment. However, there are loopholes in the regulations and many people are openly defying the rules.

While it is di cult to nd omul in supermarkets in Irkutsk, watch out for plenty of small sh-stands in the villages near the lake. Here you will nd on sale many sh species including the omul and the golomyanka. However, let the buyer beware.

e omul has a cousin called the peled (Coregonus peled), also called the northern white sh. It has an almost identical body to that of the omul except that the nose is much smaller. When comparing the omul with the peled, the latter’s small upwards protruding nose easily distin-

guishes it from the omul.

While the meat of the two species tastes quite similar to the untrained taste buds, the higher fat content of the peled is quite profound. erefore, among the locals the peled is not highly esteemed for cooking as the esh is rather so and considered by them as tasteless. When buying omul, be extra scrupulous to avoid being duped into believing the peled is omul.

Another interesting sh from the lake is the golomyanka, better known as the “fatty sh”, which demands an acquired taste to eat it. Endemic to Lake Baikal, the golomyanka contains a whopping 30% of oil but is rich in vitamins. ey live down

in the depths of the lake at over 200 metres (656 ) below the surface, where the water is always cold (about 5°C / 41°F) and highly pressured.

e golomyanka literally melts in the sun which, according to locals, leaves behind nothing but a few bones and a large oil spot. It is one of the most abundant sh in the lake and is the staple diet of the nerpa (Baikal seal).

e golomyanka is viviparous—giving birth to live young which have developed inside the body of the female. During autumn each female produces between 2,000 - 3,000 ready-to-swim larvae a er which she dies.

Siberia’s Lake Baikal

Photos below: Buying omul and golomyanka fsh at the markets near the lake

ENVIRONMENTAL THREATS

The pristine clear water of Lake Baikal is constantly under threat from pollution.

The surrounding wilderness of forests, plains and mountains that makes up the grand landscape of Siberia has been well-preserved over the centuries, except for some excessive logging. Some trees around Lake Baikal are over 800 years old.

During the last decade, an increasing amount of development has sprung up along the shores of the lake with the construction of several urban and resort communities. More recently, a spike in tourism (about 500,000 visitors a year,

many from China), has drastically changed the lifestyle of the local communities along the lake shores who generally do not have adequate waste management systems to deal with the large number of tourists.

Perhaps the most devastating development has been a paper mill that has discharged pollutants into the lake since 1966 which has resulted in a 31 square kilometre (12 sq mi) environmentally dead zone in the lake’s shallows.

Community-led opposition and environmental protection groups eventually forced its closure in 2008 on the grounds of ecological protection. Sadly, according to some reports, the mill reopened two years later under the pretence of using cleaner and safer practices.

e lake now faces a massive problem with green algae blooms and the govern-

ment’s failure to adequately respond to this threat. Many of the algae are toxic to other species and emit a terrible stench.

e algae are detrimental to water snails, sponges, sh and crustaceans which can pass the toxins along to animals and humans who consume them.

Other proposed developments that, for now, have been staved o , include a uranium plant and an oil pipeline that would have come within 800 metres (2,624 ) of the lake.

In addition, Mongolia is still actively proposing a series of hydroelectric dams on the Selenga River and its tributaries which would signi cantly reduce the amount of freshwater owing into the lake and could also a ect the level of sediment in the lake.

Lake Baikal’s crystal clear water and ice are under threat from pollution

The delicate ice formations of Lake Baikal

LISTVYANKA

Listvyanka at the mouth of the Angara River is a gateway to the lake’s waters.

The town of Listvyanka is 70 kilometres (44 mi) south of Irkutsk along the west side of the Angara River. En route, some 48 kilometres (30 mi) along this road, is the open air Taltsy Museum of Wooden Architecture and Ethnography.

e museum o ers visitors a brief immersion into the culture of the Buryat and other ethnic groups of Siberia. Opened in 1980, it has a large collection of original

wooden houses equipped with old-style furniture and domestic utensils.

Listvyanka is a small town squeezed into a narrow strip of land between the north shore of Lake Baikal and the high hills. Russian pioneers came to this spot during the middle of the 17th century though it took about a hundred years before a settlement was established. is old-style Siberian village, situated at the source of the Angara River along the lake, is famous for its trade history.

Due to its location on the shores of the lake, and its proximity to Irkutsk, the town sees more visitors than all other towns and villages along Lake Baikal combined.

It gets particularly busy here during

summer weekends when city dwellers from Irkutsk descend on the town to enjoy the crystal clear waters. e lake is picturesque and o ers activities all year round which guarantees the town a constant ow of visitors.

Listvyanka has a few places of interest such as Chersky Rock viewpoint, Baikal limnological museum, an arboretum (botanical collection of trees), a nerpinary (sealarium), and a cableway.

A retro park, owned by the Osipovs, near the Church of Saint Nicholas is decorated with wacky sculpture pieces fashioned from old Soviet-era cars and motorbikes.

While it is worth spending a day or two to check out the town and enjoy the food, Listvyanka more importantly serves as the starting point for excursions on the lake and entry point for the area’s hiking trails.

Siberia’s Lake Baikal

The fsh market at Listvyanka

Sunset over the frozen lake at Listvyanka

LAKE EXCURSIONS

Many types of excursions depart from Listvyanka to places across the lake.

Listvyanka is a popular launching point from which to board boat tours in summer, and hydrofoil excursions in mid-winter when the lake is frozen.

In summer, a variety of boat tours are on o er, including some multi-day leisure cruises as well as live-aboard diving excursions. Fishing trips o er the opportunity to catch omul sh for the pan. Full-day boat tours, or even tours of just a couple of hours, are also available and stop at a few scenic locations along the shores of the lake.

Lake Baikal is a completely di erent experience in winter! As the entire lake freezes over, it allows activities such as iceskating, ice- shing, snowmobiling, dogsledding and even cross-country skiing.

One of the more relaxed ways to enjoy the best parts of the frozen lake is to hop inside a hovercra that ever so smoothly sweeps across the frozen surface. Locally referred to as a khivous, the hovercra is an amphibious air-cushioned vehicle propelled by a massive rear-mounted fan designed to literally sweep across the frozen surface at high speeds.

e hovercra full-day excursions typically travel well over 200 kilometres (124 mi) northwest up along the lakeshore to reach the village of Dyuny in Peschanaya Bay. is spectacular bay, and several others along the shore, can only be reached by hovercra in winter and boat in summer.

LAKE BAIKAL The SOUTHERN END

At the village of Dyuny, a hearty lunch can be enjoyed in a cozy wooden cabin. A er lunch, a hike up the nearby hill, known as the Big Bell Tower, is recommended for panoramic views over the frozen lake. e ice formations in this area look spectacular from the high vantage point.

En route to Peschanaya Bay, the hovercra may stop at scenic places such as Tolstiy Cape, Baklaniy Rock, Bolshoye Goloustnoye, and Bolshiye Koty. Most of these places can only be reached via the lake’s water or ice.

In the absence of snow, the frozen water in some areas of Lake Baikal is as smooth as glass

...and very rough and uneven in other areas

Exploe Lake Baikal wit

Baikal Te a

Include:

Charm of Olkhon Island (5D/4N)

Baikal: Coast to Coast (8D/7N)

Siberian Adventures: Arshan to Baikal (9D/8N)

Lake Baikal Ice 2021 (6D/5N)

Circum-Baikal Railway Tour (1 Day)

Baikal Winter’s Tale (6D/5N)

Lake Baikal Christmas (5D/4N)

Bolshoye Goloustnoye is known as one of the best places to see the lake’s “frozen bubbles”. e lake oor here has a high concentration of methane vents that constantly emit gas bubbles rising to the surface. As the surface starts freezing in early winter, the bubbles slowly get trapped in the ice. is creates a very unusual sight.

Frozen bubbles are also plentiful a short distance south at Bolshaya Kadilnaya as well as at Ukhan Cape on Olkhon Island.

While the ice near the shore has the most incredible and wacky formations,

the hovercra will sometimes travel a few kilometres away from the shore to where the ice is more smooth.

If there has been no snow accumulation, which is typical but not guaranteed, the ice surface in some areas is as shiny and smooth as glass.

Some hovercra day-tours may head up to Olkhon Island, though at over 400 kilometres (248 mi) from Listvyanka, this will be a long and rushed day, which probably won’t allow much time to photograph and enjoy the ice.

My excursion to Listvyanka, including the adventurous hovercra day-trip, was kindly sponsored by Baikal Terra, a tour operator based in Irkutsk.

is agency is known for their a ordable tours to Olkhon Island, Listvyanka, Maloe More, Buryatia, Chivyrkuy Bay, and many other places around the region.

Lida, the owner, is from the Buryat ethnic group, and is an excellent guide. See the Baikal Terra advertisement on the opposite page.

The village of Bolshoye Goloustnoye along the shores of frozen Lake Baikal

Views from Big Bell Tower hill over Dyuny village in Peschanaya Bay Snow-covered trees by the lake