GlobeRovers Magazine (July 2020)

GlobeRovers

10 Cambodia’s Tropical South

Cambodia is best known for its historic temple ruins, most notably Angkor Wat, as well as the scars left by the mass genocide carried out by the ruthless Khmer Rouge Communist Party in the late 1980s. The country also offers many beautiful destinations including lakes, rivers, and misty mountains. The very best of Cambodia is the coastal region along the Gulf of Thailand, home to authentic fishing villages and some of Asia’s most unspoiled paradise islands with long white beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters. Come along as we explore Cambodia’s tropical south.

ARTICLES + PHOTO ESSAYS

Latvia of the Baltics

While Latvia is o en described as a vast, unspoilt parkland with just one city, its capital Rīga, we found several exciting locations across this small country with a rich and colourful history.

Myanmar’s Unspoiled Coastline

Stretching for almost 2,000 km (over 1,200 mi) along the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea, Myanmar is blessed with pristine beaches and bustling shing villages waiting to be explored.

Rodrigues Island, Mauritius

Rodrigues is an autonomous outer island of the Republic of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean. is volcanic island is surrounded by coral reefs and a few tiny uninhabited islands.

Guanajuato, Mexico’s ʻCity of Mummies’

Surrounded by mountains, Guanajuato is a fusion of colour: fuchsia pink mingled with blood red, sa ron yellow, baby blue, and lime green. e city is infamous for its many naturally mummi ed bodies!

Hiking the Nepalese Himalayas

ere are mountains, and then there is Mount Everest, our planet’s tallest peak. Our 16-day hike takes us over high altitude snow-covered passes surrounded by glaciers while breathing cold, thin air.

OTHER SECTIONS

CONTRIBUTIONS

Travelling in a Post-Covid World

Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago

Torturous Tourism

Australia’s Straight Corners

Keno City in Yukon, Canada

Volunteering - What to Avoid

REGULAR SECTIONS

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Traveller’s Treats

Postcards to Mommy

Traveller in the Spotlight

Book Reviews

TOP LISTS

10 Places in Southern Cambodia

10 Beaches of Myanmar

9 Places to visit after Covid-19

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Frozen Lake Baikal, Russia

In the grip of the Siberian winter, the planet’s deepest and largest body of fresh water turns into a frozen fairytale with a crystal clear ice surface.

Sampov Pram Pagoda, Bokor National Park, Kampot, Cambodia.

THE FRONT COVER: Lonely Beach, Koh Rong, Cambodia

Photographer: Peter Steyn

GlobeRovers Magazine

is currently a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe to the intrepid traveller.

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WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Director - Tsui Chi Ho

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Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings trilogy’.

Dear Readers,

In this 15th issue of GlobeRovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations for your reading enjoyment.

e feature destination is Cambodia, a country full of surprises even for seasoned world travellers. It boasts some of the most beautiful islands in Southeast Asia, so we head to the southern coast in search of Cambodia’s best beaches. We nd several, including a few unexpected delights.

We also journey along Myanmar’s long coastline to discover many undeveloped beaches and authentic shing villages, including some areas that have only recently opened up to foreign travellers. In search of more tropical islands and beaches, we travel to the islands of Mauritius and Rodrigues in the Indian Ocean o the coast of Southern Africa. From the tropical beaches we then reach for the highest high as we hike into Nepal’s Himalayas to get close-up views of Mount Everest.

Photo Essays include the Baltic state of Latvia and Guanajuato City in Mexico.

We have our regular contributions from Canada and Australia, a guide to volunteering, an article about torturous tourism, an ocean-cleaning project in Myanmar, and an opinion-piece about the e ects of the Covid-19 virus on future travels.

A special thank you to our sponsors as well as all our wonderful contributors who we introduce on page 5.

Visit our website and social media. For easy access, scan the QR codes on page 7.

Feedback to editor@globerovers.com.

We travel so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn, PhD Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

Lonely

Cambodia

THE FRONT COVER

Beach, Koh Rong Island

Located at the northern tip of Cambodiaʼs Koh Rong Island, this beach is remote and offers a true feeling of being lost on a paradise island.

In this issue

CONTRIBUTORS

All words and photos by Peter Steyn, except where otherwise indicated. A very special thank you to our awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, GlobeRovers Magazine just wouldnʼt be the same!

Nikki Scott, Granada, Spain (page 62)

Nikki is the founder of South East Asia Backpacker and South America Backpacker Magazines. After embarking on a solo backpacking adventure at age 23, Nikki never returned to her homecountry of England and made travel an integral part of her lifestyle.

Thanda Ko Gyi, Yangon, Myanmar (page 110)

Thanda is the Founder and Director of Myanmar Ocean Project. She has been working in marine conservation around Southeast Asia for several years. In 2018, she founded Myanmar Ocean Project with the mission to restore and protect the health of Myanmar ’s ocean.

Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (page 112)

Janet is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Janet is the Southern African editor for GlobeRovers Magazine.

Chloe Groom, Norwich, United Kingdom (page 134)

Chloe is a 21-year-old undergraduate from the University of Lincoln in the UK. She’s about to graduate with a journalism degree, and has aspirations in the travel journalism industry. Chloe mostly enjoys writing about sustainability within travel, human and animal rights and the environment.

Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 156)

Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering naturebased attractions and activities – and scenic loos – all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and published book “Aussie Loos with Views” provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.

Yrene Dee, Lumby, British Columbia, Canada (Page 164)

Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and travelled the world before she settled in Canada. She is an entrepreneur, wilderness nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.

Claire Bennett, Kathmandu, Nepal (page 170)

Claire lives and works in Kathmandu, Nepal, and freelances as a trainer and consultant. She is passionate about global education, ethical travel and ensuring good intentions are put to good use. She is co-author of Learning Service: The Essential Guide to Volunteering Abroad.

Gabriele Stoia, Siem Riep, Cambodia (page 176)

Gabriele Stoia is an Italian expat living in Cambodia since 2012. He is the owner and CEO of In Asia Travel (www.inasiatravel.com), a tour operator specialising in private tailor-made tours in Southeast Asia and Central Asia.

Linda Ballou, Los Angeles, California, USA (page 180)

Adventure travel writer, Linda Ballou, shares travel essays in her book Lost Angel WalkaboutOne Traveler’s Tales, and 32 Day Trips along the California Coast in Lost Angel in Paradise available on her site www.LostAngelAdventures.com and Amazon.com.

Jes Lippe, Oregon, USA (page 182)

Jessica is a Southern Oregon-based writer whose adventures have led her across the United States and around the world. Her upcoming travel goals include visiting all U.S. states (28/50 so far), and eventually going to all the continents (4/7 so far). Visit her website at JessicaLippe.com

The GlobeRovers‛ World

GlobeRovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.

It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has visited 122 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, Macau) and is poised to explore East Africa and Mongolia in the near future. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.

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122 and counting..

DESTINATIONS

Use a QR reader on your phone to read these codes

MEXICO Page 124

LATVIA Page 48

Cambodia

Sok San Beach, Koh Rong Island, Cambodia

Sok San Beach, more commonly known as “Long Beach”, and the Sok San village sit on the west coast of Koh Rong Island. This beach is arguably the most beautiful in Cambodia, and among the most stunning in the entire region. While most of the beach remains undeveloped, The Royal Sands Koh Rong Resort is located at its southern end.

CAMBODIA's Tropical South

Cambodia’s coastal region along the Gulf of Thailand is home to authentic fishing villages and some of Asia’s most unspoiled paradise islands with long white beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters.

Frank Vincent Jr. o ered a colourful rendition of his rst visit to Cambodia in the 1878 issue of the “Journal of American Geographical Society of New York”. His visit was inspired while in Singapore in 1871 a er hearing “detailed descriptions of the wonderful ruins in Cambodia”. e following year Frank visited and described Cambodia as follows: “ ere are also ruins of temples, monasteries and palaces; and, indeed, the whole valley of the Mekong River to the very borders of China is spread with ruins of more or less magnitude, beauty and interest”.

In the years following Frank’s expeditions, many more ruins were discovered and made accessible to future travellers.

More recently, in 2016, the Smithsonian Magazine reported “a lost city found in Cambodia” and wrote: “Deep in the jungles of Southeast Asia, archaeologists have rediscovered the remains of an invisible kingdom that may have been the template for Angkor Wat”. is temple might have been the “mother of the Angkor Wat”, Cambodia’s most famous and popular temple which has been described as the largest religious monument in the world.

e Angkor temple complex was constructed by the Khmer King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century as his state temple and eventual mausoleum. In 2019, the temple attracted about 2.2 million foreigners plus many domestic tourists. Ticket sales to the foreigners amounted to over $99 million.

Angkor Wat is obviously popular and on the bucket list of many world travellers, particularly those interested in history, Asian religion, and ancient ruins. Sadly, for most travellers, Angkor Wat is their only reason for visiting Cambodia. ey view Cambodia as merely a detour from their extensive travels through ailand to the west and Vietnam to the east.

While Angkor Wat is magni cent, there is so much more to Cambodia.

Cambodia emerged from the ruthless rule of communist dictator Pol Pot, leader of the Khmer Rouge Communist Party, who carried out a mass genocide from 1975 to 1979, killing more than two million people.

Today there are still a few places in and around the capital, Phnom Penh, to learn about this dark period of the nation’s history.

Not to miss is Phnom Penh’s Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum housed within a high school that the Khmer Rouge converted into the notorious Security Prison 21, commonly known as the “S-21 Prison”. Outside Phnom Penh are the Choeung Ek Killing Fields, site of over 17,000 executions of men, women, and children. Phnom Ta Reach, located at Phnom Touch village 101 kilometres (63 miles) from Phnom Penh, was where the Khmer Rouge ordered prisoners to carve a tunnel through a rocky mountain over 200 metres (656 feet) long, 2.8 metres (nine feet) wide and six metres (20 feet) high.

The islands of Cambodia are picturesque and far less developed than their more popular neighbours in Thailand.

Cambodia’s Tropical South

But Cambodia is a lot more than historic temple ruins and remnants of a mass genocide.

Other must-visit destinations include the beautiful Mondulkiri Province in the east of the country along the Vietnam border, known for its hardy Bunong people and their noble elephants, and the Krâvanh (Cardamom) Mountains in the southwest with one of the last unbroken rainforests in Asia.

ere’s also the oating and stilted villages along the shores of Tonle Sap, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, which o er a glimpse into the lives of these fascinating people.

Unquestionably, one of the best destinations of Cambodia is the coastal region along the Gulf of ailand that is home to many authentic shing villages and some of Asia’s most unspoiled paradise islands with long white beaches and crystal clear waters.

Cambodia’s coastal region is slated for major development as investors from China are rapidly moving in to transform this part of the country. e town of Sihanoukville has been a construction site for the last few years, and developers also have their eyes on the nearby islands. Now is the time to explore the area before it changes too much.

We start our journey in the small coastal town of Kep, known for its blue sea crabs fried with fresh local peppercorns, and then set o by boat to nearby Tonsay Island for a few days under the swaying palm trees—something we will do a lot more of in the coming days.

Next is the town of Kampot and its peaceful countryside as well as nearby Bokor National Park, before we again head out on a boat to soak up the sun on Cambodia’s most beautiful islands: Koh Russey, Koh Rong, and Koh Rong Sanloem.

For too long these islands have been overlooked by many international travellers in the region.

While tourist arrivals are slowly increasing, parts of these islands still remain undeveloped with miles of pristine beaches and rustic Khmer villages.

THE TOWN OF KEP

The sea crab capital of Cambodia is also known for its abandoned villas.

Founded in 1908 during the time of the French colonization, Kep was known as Kep Sur Mer, with “Kep” derived from the French le cap meaning ‘cape’ in English. Located 100 kilometres (62 miles) east of Sihanoukville International Airport, and 167 kilometres (104 miles) south of Phnom Penh, the Cambodian capital, the town of Kep has been beloved by Cambodians for generations. However, Kep once was reserved as an exclusive seaside

getaway for the colonial French bourgeois elite and the wealthy high ranking Khmer leaders who liked to mingle with the colonialists.

A amboyant past, followed by a dark time of destruction, Kep has now inadvertently become famous for its abandoned stately villas that were built during the Golden Age of Cambodia of the 1950s and early 1960s. Since the end of the colonial days in 1953, the country has been ravaged during the Civil War (1967 - 1975) and the subsequent brutal rule of the Khmer Rouge regime (1975 to 1979). e villas su ered badly during the ghting and were looted by the Khmer Rouge and the Vietnamese. Today, the spooky old villas have become somewhat of a tourist attrac-

Queen’s abandoned villa, Kep.

Main beach at Kep.

tion, while mostly shunned by locals who believe the buildings are haunted.

Don’t miss the Queen’s Villa, one of the abandoned buildings on the beachfront near the Koh Tonsay boat terminal. Built in the 1930s, it was designated as a residence of Queen Sisowath Kossamak (b:1904 - d:1975). Not far from here, near the top of the hill, are the ruins of the un nished palace of her son, Norodom Sihanouk (b:1922 - d:2012), Cambodia’s mercurial and artistic Prince, King, Prime Minister, and “Protector of Cambodia”. Referred to as the “Queen’s Palace,” this

mansion was never completed and Norodom never lived here.

ese days, many Cambodians ock to this popular seaside holiday spot for one reason: Kep’s blue crabs. In the early mornings, the seafood market along the main beach is a hive of activity as people scramble to buy fresh crabs. Next to the market is a row of shacks selling the eponymous dish, which usually comes stir-fried with an ample amount of locally grown peppercorns. On weekends and holidays, the shady areas along the beach are crowded with families enjoying their picnics, each

Cambodia KEP REGION

with plenty of fried crabs.

e town is built around the Kep National Park and while it doesn’t have abundant wildlife or untouched natural beauty, it o ers many hiking paths through the dense jungle. Several viewpoints o er lovely vistas over the town and the nearby islands. Start the hike at the Led Zep Café, on a slope just past the southern park entrance above the Veranda Natural Resort.

e café has a commanding view over the town. While hiking, look out for Sunset Rock, Little Buddha, the Stone Horse, as well as monkeys and a few small waterfalls during the rainy season.

Among the other attractions in Kep is the statue of the Waiting Lady, known in the Khmer language as “sela cham bdei” which means “woman who waits for her man”. Sitting on a stone pedestal along Kep’s main beach, her exposed breasts and well-cushioned buttocks sporadically outrage the local social conservatives who then drape her statuesque “nude body” in

Waiting Lady of Kep

Also known as the “White Lady” or the “Sreysor Statue”, the lady is waiting for her man to safely return from the daily fshing trips.

Locals eating crab by the beach, Kep.

Views over the town from Wat Samathi Pagoda, Kep.

cloth which o en disappears in a day or two.

As should be expected of Kep, a giant statue in honour of the crabs sits on a table rising above the sea o the main beach. Among other attractions around town is a butter y farm, Wat Samathi Pagoda, Samot Raingsey Pagoda, the Independence Monument, Kep Museum, and an Oceanarium run by the Marine Conservation of Cambodia.

An ideal spot by the beach from which to enjoy Kep’s breathtaking sunsets is e

Sailing Club Restaurant & Bar. Set in a restored traditional wooden sherman’s cottage, it o ers a variety of cocktails, wines and beers, as well as an extensive menu of local seafood and tasty western favourites.

e sailing club belongs to the next door Knai Bang Chatt Resort. In the Khmer language, Knai Bang Chatt means “rainbow encircling the sun” and in Buddhism, this rainbow is the halo around Buddha’s head.

e resort’s buildings are historic. Its iconic Blue Villa once belonged to the gov-

ernor of Kep while the resort’s reception building was owned by a relative of Cambodia’s King. e red Summer House was owned by the Head of Customs. Under the leadership of Francoise Lavielle, a French architect living in Phnom Penh, these buildings have been painstakingly restored to their original architectural grandeur.

Knai Bang Chatt is the perfect place to stay while visiting Kep. Don’t forget to enjoy their intimate spa that o ers a range of treatments using only the best natural products, including aloe vera from their own organic garden.

Crab statue, Kep.

Samot Raingsey Pagoda, Kep.

Wat Samathi Pagoda, Kep.

Independence Monument, Kep.

KEPʼS COUNTRYSIDE

Outside Kep are large swathes of rice paddies, pepper farms and villages

While Kep’s beaches are packed with locals during some weekends and holidays, the beaches to the west of town are mostly deserted. e tiny coastal dirt road is perfect for a day out on a bicycle or motorbike. Follow a few footpaths around the rice paddies to explore the small villages where a curious smile is waiting around every corner.

Follow in a northerly direction about 10 kilometres (6 miles) from Kep to reach a small group of pepper-producing farms. For decades, pepper from the Kampot and Kep regions has enjoyed a reputation as the world’s very best. According to French historians, the chic Parisian restaurants in the 1930s used Kampot pepper exclusively. It is believed that the pepper derives its exquisite avour from a combination of the mineral-rich soil of the region, the humid sea breeze and the bat guano harvested from the nearby limestone caves.

Some farms o er free tours of the process of growing and drying the peppercorns. Most have an on-site restaurant serving up delicious Cambodian and French fusion cuisine with fresh pepper as an essential ingredient. Among the plantations north of Kep that o er visitor’s tours are Sothy’s Farm, Ngovheng’s Farm, and Flying Dog Farm.

Further northwest is the popular La Plantation farm that sits on the edge of the Secret Lake, also known as Brateak

Krola Lake. Local rumour abounds that this man-made dam did not get its “secret” connotation from its location, but rather from a belief that the evil Khmer Rouge had prisoners dig a secret mass grave for workers and fellow prisoners which was then ooded with water. While no bodies have ever emerged from the depths, shermen claim to have hooked human bones. Created under the Khmer Rouge as an irrigation dam, the lake is nestled between rising hills and rice paddies.

is area is studded with limestone rocks and a network of caves, many of which are home to Buddhist shrines.

Among the most prominent is Phnom Chhnork, a Hindu cave temple with preAngkorian carvings and a 7th century evocative shrine built from bricks and dedicated to Shiva, the God of Destruction.

e pepper farms and caves can also be reached from Kampot town to the northwest of Kep. Along this road connecting these two towns are a few salt elds close to the sea. e elds are ooded with seawater and then blocked so the water can evaporate, leaving salt crystals which are then harvested, cleaned and iodized before being packaged and sold. e best time to visit is the dry season.

Sorting peppercorns on Sothy’s Farm.

Fishing boats along the coast east of Kep.

Peppercorns on Sothy’s Farm.

Rural scenery outside Kep.

The huts of Khim Vouch Lay, Tonsay Island.

While these huts are basic, the blankets are colourful and clean.

TONSAY ISLAND

An island with palm-fringed beaches and a lot of golden sunsets.

For a slice of rustic island life, complete with hammocks and swaying palm trees, hop on one of the former shing boats converted into tourist ferries, for the 30-minute ride to Rabbit Island, or Koh Tonsay as it is known in Khmer.

While most travellers to the island are day-trippers from the mainland, the west coast beach is lined with threadbare bungalows and restaurant shacks.

Most huts are rudimentary, however the bungalows of Khim Vouch Lay at the southern end of the beach are superior, though not signi cantly more expensive than the rest.

e island relies on solar power and generators for its electricity. No vehicles are allowed as there are no roads except for a footpath down the 250 metre (820 foot) long beach. While the footpath encircles the island, according to a friendly bungalow manager, this path mostly disappears along the eastern and northern sections. Walking all around the island is not nearly as easy, or idyllic, as it appears on the map, and is not recommended to anyone but lovers of mud, spiders, long grass, beach garbage, and hook-thorn shrubs.

Cambodia tonsay island

If decent beaches, hammocks, swaying palm trees, sunsets with cocktails, and dri ing o to the sound of the waves best oat your boat, then make sure to spend a few days on Koh Tonsay. When the peace and quiet become too overwhelming, rent a small boat for a day trip to the nearby islands of Koh Svay (Mango Island) and Koh Pos (Snake Island).

Tonsay Island is covered in palm trees.

The main beach of Tonsay Island.

Beautiful sunset from the main beach of Tonsay Island.

Slovenians Ziga and Ines exploring the island.

KAMPOT

Located along a river, Kampot is known for its tranquility and outdoor activities.

Located 30 kilometres (19 miles) northwest of Kep along the Preaek Tuek Chhu River and close to the Elephant Mountains, the enchanting town of Kampot has a loyal following of travellers dating back decades. It is not hard to see why so many travellers have become entranced

with this laidback riverside town, lined with dilapidated shophouses, restaurants, and guesthouses.

Kampot served as the capital of the Circonscription Résidentielle de Kampot under French rule and for many years was Cambodia’s most important seaport. During the late 19th century, the French reported that Kampot was composed of several multi-ethnic communities, each with their own distinctive architecture.

ese enclaves included the Khmer (Cambodians), Chinese, Vietnamese, Malays, and of course the Europeans (mainly the French). e diverse and decaying

architecture of today’s Kampot re ects the towns’ multi-cultural history.

Rent a bicycle and explore the fading pastel-coloured French colonial architecture with pockets of Southeast Asian buildings. Among the old colonial buildings that have been ever so tastefully restored to their former glory are the National Bank, Kampot Provincial Museum, and the Red Cross building.

Don’t miss the Hotel Old Cinema with its distinctive pale-yellow art-deco facade. Built during the 1930s as the Maison de théâtre le Grandeur, it now is an upscale

Wat Traeuy Kaoh, Kampot.

boutique hotel with a restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, bar, and a lovely garden.

Over the years, many travellers enjoyed the town so much that they stayed for the long term. e small but growing expat community is contributing to an expanding culinary variety and pub culture that did not exist prior to their arrival.

e town remains relatively untouched by tourism, especially during the low season. While it is considered largely safe, there has been an increase in crime against tourists and expats. e local government has been accused of dealing

poorly with the threats against foreigners and covering up and even censoring media reports of the corruption among their police force.

e undeveloped river banks upstream from the town proper are sporadically interrupted by boutique resorts and backpacker retreats. Bungalows along the river banks o er a daily routine of swaying in a hammock with a beer in hand while watching the river slowly dri ing down to the sea.

While Kampot has limited attractions in town, its variety of accommodation, restaurants, and bars make it an ideal base

from which to explore the surrounding areas such as Bokor National Park, the cave temples, salt and pepper farms, lakes, and even day trips to o shore islands and the town of Kep.

Being on the edge of an estuary on the Kampong Bay River, the town is easily reached by boat from Kep, in addition to travelling by road. e popular “Crab Shuttle”, a converted local shing vessel with a maximum load of eight people, departs daily on its 2.5-hour journey between Kep and Kampot. Kampot lies 85 kilometres (53 miles) east of the Sihanoukville International Airport.

Provincial Hall, Kampot.

Colonial-era shophouses, Kampot.

BOKOR NATIONAL PARK

The old French hill station in the Bokor National Park is a gem to explore.

The arched entrance of the Preah Monivong Bokor National Park is located just 10 kilometres (six miles) to the southwest of Kampot. Designated as an ASEAN Heritage Park, it covers an area of over 1,400 square kilometres (345,947 acres) with much of its plateau lying at over 1,000 metres (3,281 feet) above Kampot and the surrounding coast.

e park features waterfalls, exotic fauna and ora, remnants of abandoned French villas, a church, a rustic pagoda, and breathtaking vistas over the sea and the islands.

e park o ers shelter to an incredible array of wildlife, including the clouded leopard, Asian black bear, muntjac (barking deer), banteng (wild cattle), gaur (Indian bison), sambar deer, wild boar, pileated gibbon, macaque, snake, fox, and many more species. While elephants and tigers might still be roaming here, no sightings have been reported for a while, so they may have moved on. e park is also home to over 300 bird species, including the great hornbill and the wreathed hornbill.

A relaxing day spent in the park may not result in any wildlife sightings as many are nocturnal and survive by roaming only in the remote parts of the park. Increased activity among poachers and the ever-present encroachment of humans are threatening the future of the park’s wildlife.

Except for avid and well-prepared wildlife spotters, most people visit the park to enjoy the cool misty air and to photograph the many abandoned buildings. e highlight of the park is Bokor Hill Station which was built by the French in the 1920s. Among the many ruined buildings of the hill station still standing is the Old French Palace, a hauntingly beautiful old colonial building constructed by French settlers in 1917 and completed in 1925. It mainly served the French social elite who wished to escape the heat and humidity of Phnom Penh. In later years the building was used as a casino and also served as a movie set for some Hollywood lms. During the last

few years, the building has been miraculously restored into a luxury hotel, a major disappointment to photographers looking for its rustic ruins.

e plateau also o ers ruins of old French colonial villas, as well as the beautiful rustic ruins of a large French Catholic Church that once accommodated Khmer Rouge soldiers.

ere’s an eerie ghost town vibe when walking inside these ruins.

At any time of the day, in particular during the rainy season, the hilltop can

be swathed in rolling clouds and visibility then drops to almost zero. Pouring rain often lasts only a short while and then clears up to blue skies within minutes.

One of the best experiences of visiting the park is biking or cycling up to the top of the hill. e distance by road from the main entrance to the highest vista point is about 12 kilometres (7.5 miles) as the crow ies, while the winding road is over 30 kilometres (19 miles) long. e road has been paved recently and is in great condition. Allow enough time to stop at several viewpoints to enjoy the serenity.

Sampov Pram Pagoda.

Sampov Pram Pagoda (The “Five Boats Wat” got its name from the fve oddly boat-shaped rocks near the temple). Located at 1,075 metres (3,527 feet) above the sea, it is the highest Buddhist pagoda in Cambodia.

Ruins of the Bokor Catholic Church.

Ruins of the Black Palace.

Ruins of the Bokor Old Catholic Church

The Romanesque Catholic Church was built by the French in the early 1920s as part of their hill station on Bokor Mountain and is the oldest standing church in the Kampot area.

The orange lichen covering the church and some graffti inside it add to an atmosphere of abandonment.

The interior has been surprisingly well kept with paintings still clearly visible. It holds aloft a few of its crosses; statues and fragments of glass cling to the corners of the nave windows. One side window holds the barest outline of a rusty crucifx.

The subdividing walls inside were built by the Khmer Rouge Communists when they used the church as a shelter during their confict with the Vietnamese.

A short hike up the hill behind the church leads to a panoramic view over the jungles and the town of Kampot.

Local village near Otres Beach. Otres Beach.

Locals at work near Otres Beach.

Streets of Sihanoukville. Construction in Sihanoukville.

SIHANOUKVILLE AND BEACHES

The best days of Sihanoukville and its nearby beaches are gone now!

Sihanoukville, named in honour of former king Norodom Sihanouk, is Cambodia’s only deep-water port and gateway to the islands. Its international airport lies 20 kilometres (12 miles) to the southeast of town. While travellers from the capital, Phnom Penh, commonly choose the road or even the train, the airport o ers international travellers more direct access to towns like Kampot and Kep, as well as the islands.

e once sleepy beach town of Sihanoukville used to be popular among travellers. However, over the last few years, the town has been transformed by Chinese developers in a rather alarming way.

e sheer speed at which massive hotels with casinos and skyscrapers are being constructed has angered locals and foreign visitors alike.

At present, the town is nothing but a vast Chinese-run construction site with more cranes towering above the buildings than can be counted. Sihanoukville has become a ballooning enclave for Chinese-run casinos despite gambling being banned in Cambodia. At latest count, the town is already home to over 100 casinos, many

still un nished. Even the streets are now lined with a majority of Chinese businesses and restaurants. Chinese-language street signs are outnumbering those of any other language. Under the leadership of Prime Minister Hun Sen, the Cambodian government’s embrace of China’s take-over of Sihanoukville is nothing short of selling out this part of Cambodia to China.

Since China’s take-over of Sihanoukville, the town has lost all of its charm and is best avoided by travellers who now only use the town’s ports to reach the islands. However, Chinese developers are also encroaching on the islands. At one of the most beautiful beaches at Clear Water Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem, the developers have already moved in with earth-movers to clear large swathes of the jungle in preparation for the construction of a resort.

On the southeastern outskirts of town are Ochheuteal Beach, followed by Otres Beach further south. Up until a few years ago before the Chinese developers arrived, these beaches were locally managed and

o ered peaceful rustic beach bungalows popular among backpackers. e accommodation and bar scene on both beaches are now going through a metamorphosis with an increasing number of old and newly constructed establishments under Chinese ownership. As with Sihanoukville, these beaches are now best avoided by international travellers.

About 17 kilometres (10 miles) north of downtown Sihanoukville is the Kbal Chhay Waterfalls. e water ows from several sources along the mountain range, although only three of these sources are visible. e waterfall, which is 14 metres (46 feet) high, is at the point where these three sources join. e best time to visit is during the rainy season between June to October.

Accommodation along Ochheuteal Beach.

AlilaVilas

The hallmark of Alila is the combination of innovative design and luxury in unique locations, set apart by an unprecedented level of private space, crafted artisanship, personalised hospitality, and bespoke journeys AlilaVillasKohRussey PreyNupDistrictReamCommune18108 SihanoukvilleProvince,Cambodia Phone:+855962141888

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KOH RUSSEY

The main reason for visiting this private island is to be pampered at a fne resort.

To the south of Otres Beach lies Koh Russey, also known as Bamboo Island. e island measures roughly 900 metres (0.6 miles) by 1.5 kilometres (0.9 miles) and can be reached by a 20-minute car ride from the Sihanoukville International Airport and then 10 minutes on a ferry.

Koh Russey is bestowed with a beautiful coastline, dramatic headland, tropical forests, and powdery sand beaches.

For decades, the undeveloped island served as an outpost for the Cambodian Navy but with the rise of tourism to the region, the government was seduced by the almighty tourist dollar. e island is now managed by CityStar, a French private equity rm. In cooperation with the Alila Hotels & Resorts Group, that is part of Hyatt Hotels, they operate the splendid Alila Villas Koh Russey Resort located at the northern end of the island. It was reportedly the resort in Cambodia to receive the highest level of certi cation by EarthCheck for its e orts to reduce environmental impact.

e resort’s 63 pavilions and beachfront villas are immaculate with all the comforts you can expect at a luxury resort of distinct taste. Among the wide variety of amenities available to guests are a large in nity beach pool, a restaurant, yoga room, tness centre, spa, and souvenir shop. e jungle’s beauty and tranquillity, including several large Banyan trees, are a few steps away from the villas.

In early 2020, it was announced that Hyatt, under the Alila brand, would no longer be managing the resort. Only time will tell who next will manage these beautiful facilities.

Just about two kilometres (1.2 miles) east of Koh Russey lies its much larger sister island, Koh Ta Kiev, an unspoiled militaryowned island with a long copper-sand beach. Most of Koh Ta Kiev’s quiet charm

comes from the island’s lack of development. Accommodation options here vary from rustic treehouses in the jungle to a stunning eco-resort.

Back on the mainland near the airport, the Ream National Park o ers a unique opportunity to discover the local wildlife. Several centuries-old trees, as well as rare bird species, can be spotted around the park. It is fascinating to cruise through the mangroves on a small boat before walking along a path for a closer look at the rich biodiversity and the humming sounds coming from within the dense mangroves.

Dining room and pool at the Alila Villas.

Alila Villas on Koh Russey.

MʼPAY BAY

Koh Rong Sanloem’s most northern bay has a well developed backpacker scene.

M’Pay Bay sits at the northern end of Koh Rong Sanloem island and is well protected against the high surf by the nearby island of Koh Koun. A Khmer village is located at the northwestern end of the bay. Almost all the beachfront houses of the village have been converted into travellers accommodation, restaurants, and

shops. Further away from the beach, the locals are trying to live fairly normal lives.

During peak season, M’Pay Bay can be quite busy as the traveller infrastructure is well-developed and it is a popular hangout for backpackers. Outside of peak season, it has a more subdued atmosphere.

In addition to the many restaurants serving drinks under the trees along the north-facing beach, are a few rustic sunset bars along the northwestern side of the island.

ese bars are a few hundred metres walk up the hill past the village. Perched

high on the cli s over the sea, some bars worth checking out are the Lookout Bar, Dragon y Bar, e Cli Bar, and On e Rocks Bar. During peak season, arrive at least an hour or two before sunset to secure a seat and watch the sunset with a cocktail in hand.

During high and peak seasons, M’Pay Bay can be reached from Saracen Bay (Orchid Pier), the main beach on Koh Rong Sanloem.

ere are also ferries from Sihanoukville on the mainland, and from Koh Touch Beach on Koh Rong Island to the north.

Huts at M’Pay Bay.

A sunset bar, M’Pay Bay.

An old jetty, M’Pay Bay.

CLEAR WATER BAY

One of the most beautiful and unspoiled beaches is now slated for development.

While M’Pay Bay beaches are generally clean and t for swimming, the best beach in the area, and also one of the most beautiful in Cambodia, is at nearby Clear Water Bay.

e bay lies across the northeastern headland of the island and requires a one-hour hike from M’Pay village. Walk to the eastern end of M’Pay Bay beach to where a small signpost announces “Clear Water Bay” to the right and up the footpath through the jungle.

Until early 2019 it was easy to follow this winding path through the thick forest. However, Chinese developers staked out

a huge tract of land here and their earthmoving equipment has destroyed swathes of the jungle for a new resort.

e path has now disappeared in some sections so it has become more challenging to get to the bay, even more so when returning to M’Pay village. If and when this large resort opens, the pristine natural attractions here will unquestionably be disturbed.

Up until 2018, the rustic Dri wood Hostel and Bungalows were a welcome oasis on this 2.2 kilometre (1.4 mile) long gorgeous beach. Managed by an Australian backpacker and sta ed by volunteers, it offered ve bungalows and a few dorm rooms with a spacious dining room.

e rickety wooden building sits near the beach on stilts high above the sand, the only place to sleep and have drinks in the entire bay. e Chinese developers have now pushed the Dri wood out and since 2019 the building stands unoccupied

except for a few locals squatting in the large open space of the living room.

In May 2018, a few months before the demise of the Dri wood, travel blogger “Roaming Reece” posted photos of the Dri wood with his fond memories of staying there and enjoying the beaches. He concluded his post with: “I would de nitely visit Clear Water Bay again and take a tent with me. While I was there I heard a Chinese company had bought a large chunk of the island, so how long this carefree beach is going to survive, I don’t know!”

Now we know the days of this carefree beach will soon be gone. Sadly, good things don’t last forever.

Beach at Clear Water Bay.

Located almost an hour’s walk east of M’Pay Bay at the northern tip of Koh Rong Sanloem, Clear Water Beach is one of the most unspoiled beaches in Southeast Asia. Sadly, the developers from China have moved in with their earth-movers to clear the jungle and prepare for the construction of a tourist resort.

SARACEN BAY

While this beach can get touristy, the vibe is great, in particular at sunset.

The main tourist beach on Koh Rong Sanloem is at Saracen Bay on the southeastern side of the island. Easily accessible by ferry from Sihanoukville, this three kilometre (1.9 mile) long beach has a pier at both the northern and southern ends.

Almost the entire stretch of the beach is covered with resorts, varying from budget to luxury, most of which have a restaurant and bar on the beach. On average, accommodation and food on Koh Rong

Sanloem are more expensive than on Koh Rong Island to the north.

At the northern end of the beach a few hundred metres into the jungle, is the Freedom Waterfall, which is worth a visit, especially during the rainy season. e jungle surrounding the waterfall is rugged and the natural pool of fresh water is perfect for swimming. e waterfall comes with a bar and a restaurant with decent Khmer food.

e coral reefs around the island are still in a fairly good condition and snorkelling and scuba diving should be on your list.

At night, some areas around the island come alive with the sparkling blue colours of bioluminescent plankton. A er dark, preferably on moon-free nights, wade chest-deep into the sea, face away from the

beach lights and wave your arms underwater to see the “ re ies of the sea” come alive.

e jungle in the northern half of the island is still largely untouched, while large patches of the southern side of the island have been deforested at an alarming rate. It would be an adventurous jungle hike all the way from M’Pay Bay in the north to Saracen Bay, before more of the jungle disappears.

Almost four kilometres (2.5 miles) south of the bottom end of Saracen Bay is the Koh Rong Sanloem Lighthouse. e hike from the beach takes about 70 to 90 minutes and the small path goes up the hill. It is best to do this hike early in the morning but bring along enough water and sunscreen. e views from the top of the lighthouse are splendid.

Beach at Saracen Bay.

WESTERN BEACHES

The beaches on the western side of the island remain mostly undeveloped.

While Saracen Bay on the east side of Koh Rong Sanloem has the longest and most developed beach, the west side is blessed with three small unspoiled beaches, each with a special charm.

From south to north, the beaches are Buck Beach, Lazy Beach, and Sunset Beach. All of them are t for swimming and o er perfect views of the setting sun over the Gulf of ailand.

While all three beaches have direct

hiking paths from the beach at Saracen Bay, they can also be approached via a coastal hiking path starting at the lighthouse.

From the lighthouse, follow the path back to Saracen and at the rst crossroad, turn le and follow the path down to Buck Beach, which is visible from the top of the lighthouse. e beach is normally quite deserted and great for swimming.

Walk north along the Buck Beach right up to the end. Set about 15 metres (50 feet) back from the sea is a hiking path that snakes through the thick jungle all the way to Lazy Beach. e beach is beautiful and the water perfect for swimming.

e only accommodation and restaurant is at Lazy Beach Resort which o ers twenty simple cabins and a large open-air

main lodge serving food, drinks, and snorkelling gear rental.

From Lazy Beach the hiking path continues through the jungle north to Sunset Beach. Parts of this path, especially the last section before arriving at the beach, are somewhat challenging.

Sunset Beach looks similar to Lazy Beach though it is shorter and has more large trees right on the beach. Here are a few restaurants and accommodation options, including beach camping, as well as a couple of adventure operators.

Enjoy a drink at the cosy Huba-Huba bar at sunset, but only if you are staying for the night. If not sleeping over, then it’s better to head back to Saracen before the jungle falls into complete darkness.

Lazy Beach.

Sunset Beach. Huba-Huba Bar on Sunset Beach.

LONELY BEACH

Hard to get to and with only one bungalow operator, Lonely Beach is a gem!

Lonely Beach is located at the northern tip of Koh Rong Island, the larger and more developed sister island of Koh Rong Sanloem to its south. Lonely Beach o ers a paradise-island-feel with its tall overhanging palm trees, crystal clear ocean waters, and so brown-white sandy beaches. is beach is also one of the very best spots in the area to see the colours of bioluminescent plankton at night.

e French-owned Lonely Beach Bungalows is the only accommodation

available on this part of the island. It o ers bungalows with an ensuite bathroom, a gazebo style dorm with beds under mosquito net canopies, as well as a few cheaper huts referred to as “birdnests” with wooden window enclosures and no bathroom.

All accommodation here is very basic and not suitable for anyone looking for reasonable comfort during their stay. However, if staying in rustic bungalows is your way of being at one with nature, then this place should be perfect.

e spacious restaurant serves decent food, though prices are signi cantly higher than at similar places on the rest of the island.

e bungalows and the restaurant are several metres away from the beach so the beach remains devoid of any buildings. A

few hammocks have been set up between the palm trees on the beach so it is easy to laze away on this serenely lonely beach.

is part of the island is hard to reach during o -peak periods when boats are limited. e bungalow owners o er non-scheduled boat transfers from Sihanoukville as well as to the beaches around the island, but unless you are in a large group, their boat is very expensive.

A 45-minute adventurous hike from Lonely Beach across the northeastern tip of the island leads to Prek Svay shing village. e path goes through some muddy sections and a small stream. Snakes are omnipresent on these islands, so walk catfoot. is friendly village has many houses built on stilts over the water, including the very basic Fire y Guesthouse with a few

Lonely Beach.

Basic hut at Lonely Beach.

rooms and a restaurant serving up local dishes. e village is the centre for marine conservation on the island, thanks to several NGOs at work here.

e temple on the outskirts of town has its interior entirely adorned with Buddhist paintings and is well worth a visit.

A few kilometres south of the village is the small secluded Palm Beach. About a kilometre away from the beach are two tiny islands named Koh Bong and Koh Oun, meaning “the sweethearts” or “boyfriend and girlfriend islands”. ese days they are more commonly referred to as the Song Saa Private Islands, home to Song Saa, an exclusive eco-resort. e islands have been meticulously redeveloped with great care given to supporting the local environment and marine life.

COCONUT BEACH

One of the most popular backpacker beaches on Koh Rong Island.

Coconut Beach lies at the southeastern tip of Koh Rong Island, 19 kilometres (12 miles) by road south of Lonely Beach. While it is possible to arrange a comfortable private boat transfer from Lonely Beach, a more economical and adventurous way is by motorbike taxi.

Much of this road is a lonely footpath through the northern part of the island, though the southern section becomes wider until it turns into a gravel road.

e northern part is truly an adventure as the footpath o en disappears in the jungle, or under big puddles of rainwater. Where there is too much mud, the

motorbike must be driven on some rickety wooden planks placed over the mud.

While Coconut Beach ticks o all the essentials: clear turquoise waters, white sand, palm and coconut trees, bungalows, restaurants, and bars, it is not one of the best beaches on these islands. e beach is well-developed and o ers a wide variety of bungalows, beach restaurants, and even beach parties with bon res at night.

It is a popular backpacker hangout so the hammocks near the beach are o en still occupied late in the morning with those who can’t get their eyes open a er a

late night of indulging in cheap Cambodian liquor.

e backpacker community is mostly found at the permanent tents on the beach o ered by the Coconut Beach Bungalows which is set on a hillside close to the beach.

A small footpath north up the hill from the beach leads to Daem kov shing village. e village o ers at least one very basic guesthouse and an even more basic restaurant. It is best to sleep at Coconut Beach and visit the village for an hour or two to mingle with the locals and have a few laughs with the inquisitive kids.

Daem Thkov village.

Coconut Beach.