CELEBRATE
WITH THE ORIGINAL
www.simonsig.co.za
Simonsig Wine Estate, Kromme Rhee Road, Koelenhof, 7605 | Phone: 021 8884900
SimonsigWines
Simonsig_Wines
SimonsigWines
Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18
SOUTH AFRICAN
CONNOISSEUR www.wineofthemonth.co.za
Distinctive handcrafted wines in harmony with nature.
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Lauren de Sousa DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE TASTINGS Alicia Bento WINE BUYER/PUBLISHER Natalie Collard REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles—David Biggs & Irina von Holdt OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Shannon Latimer, Lorraine Lines (Consultant), Daniela Zondagh and Rohan Etsebeth
HAVE A QUESTION? HERE’S HOW TO CONTACT US:
• Advertising call 021 492 4110 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. • Wine delivery or wine orders call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.
• Write to the Editor: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.
FIND US:
Facebook: @wineofthemonthsa Twitter: @WotMSA Instagram: @wineofthemonth
TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR COMPETITIONS: The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Connoisseur will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Connoisseur, their families, their agencies, Connoisseur contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. Sms entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.
Member
Iwca International Wine
Printed by
Clubs Association
A division of Novus Holdings
South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.
Contact: +27 (21) 876 4000 | Email: wine@hautespoir.com
14 08
26 15
24 24
06
CONTENTS
06 Wine & Dine—What’s New in Food and Drink 08 Bruce Jack on his Latest Wine Range 10 What’s On—Events In and Around SA 13 Gift Ideas for Wine Lovers 14 ‘World’s Best Female Chef’— Chantel Dartnall 15 Hearty Winter Recipes 19 This Month’s Winning Wines 20 Irina von Holdt on the Latest Panel Tastings 24 Stellenrust’s Old Vine Wines 26 Connoisseur’s Choice—A Selection of Top Wines to Try
13
14
30 Your Wine Questions Answered 32 David Biggs: Toast to a Gracious Age Gone By
ON THE COVER:
Bruce Jack’s latest wine venture, on p.08 Photography by: Daniela Zondagh Illustration by: Rohan Etsebeth
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
3
Turn to p.13 for great gift ideas for wine lovers
A Little Mid-Year Magic
See what our panel has to say about, unusual reds and ports p.20
‘We’ve got some real heartwarming dishes for you to tuck into’ p.15
This month a man who, over the last 30 years, has had a big impact on the South African wine industry graces our cover. That man is Bruce Jack and, on p.08, he talks to us about his latest wine venture—Bruce Jack Wines. Another person at the top of their game is Chantel Dartnall. She has been voted ‘The World’s Best Female Chef’. And guess where she hangs out? Right here in SA. She heads up the kitchen at Restaurant Mosaic in Pretoria. We discover how Chantel followed her food dream, and what exactly makes her dishes so deliciously different. (p.14) Still on food, we share some winter recipes for you to try while the colder months are still here. We’ve got some real heartwarming dishes like Duck Breast with Herbs & Raspberries (p.17) and a gluten-free Bread Pizza with Dates, Tomatoes and Goat’s Cheese. (p.17) Irina von Holdt reveals the panel’s thoughts on two important wine categories: unusual reds and ports—and thankfully it’s smiles all round. See what our panel has to say on p.20. Know any winos with birthdays coming up—or maybe you just want to spoil your wine-loving self? We’ve got some great gift ideas on p.13. From wine books and cork stoppers to glasses and wine fridges … we’ve got you covered. And lastly, our favourite resident writer, David Biggs toasts a gracious bygone age as he unpacks forgotten ceremonies on p.32. There’s more. Not forgetting, of course, valuable information on all the best and latest wines.
Colin Collard
CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB 4
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
5 0
sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR
WINE & DINE | What’s New
COUNTRY COSINESS AT WAVERLEY HILLS Just 90 minutes from Cape Town, in the Witzenberg Valley near Tulbagh, you’ll find WAVERLEY HILLS—a beautiful estate known for its premium organic wines and sustainable farming practices. Now, the restaurant at Waverley Hills estate celebrates the return of cosiness with a new, fired-up menu for winter. The venue’s twin fireplaces and deep leather couches make it a popular winter meal-stop for families who want to see the surrounding snow-covered peaks. Chef Francois du Toit has come up with an enticing menu that’ll have you linger even longer. “Being out in the country is about hitting the pause button and I’ve made that my starting point for every new dish,” he says. Regulars have also come to love the weekly Wednesday night pizza special and the Sunday lunch, presented as a traditional roast with all the trimmings. To book your spot visit www.waverleyhills.co.za.
DID YOU KNOW? Wine-of-the-Month Club has both a coffee and craft beer club? Now you can get both brews delivered directly to your home. Call 021 492 4100 to find out more.
WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine
WHICH BREW’S FOR YOU?
Love beer? Love coffee? Well, do we have the drink for you! Boston Breweries and Deluxe Coffeeworks bring you BLACK RIVER COFFEE STOUT. A jet-black brew with a toffee-coloured head and an unmistakable aroma of roasted coffee beans. Wait, a caffeinated beer? “Absolutely,” says Chris Barnard, Chief Brewer and MD of the innovative Boston Breweries craft brewing company. “This is a stout: a drink that is to be savoured, rather than chugged. It’s the perfect evening drink, and is ideal at meal times too. It’s great with sweeter foods, and after particular creamy dishes the subtle carbonation makes an ideal palate cleanser.” Available in both bottles and traditional kegs. To find out more go to www.bostonbreweries.co.za.
6
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
What’s New | WINE & DINE
A SECOND SEASON OF POP-UP DINNERS
How to Make Plum Wine
Plum liquor, also known as plum wine, is popular in Japan, Korea and China, but now you can make it right in your own kitchen. Simply combine ripe produce with the alcohol of your choice and reap the rewards a couple of months later. Sounds like a cinch, right? And it is too.
Following 2017’s successful debut venture, Franschhoek’s Haute Cabrière wine estate, together with chefs Nic van Wyk and Westley Muller, set out on a second season of POP-UP RESTAURANTS to be hosted in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban and along the Garden Route. The pop-up dinners offer guests from the rest of South Africa the chance to enjoy the highlights of a typical wine farm experience. Diners can look forward to a six-course tasting menu, each paired with a different wine. R595pp, including the wine. Sounds like fun, don’t you think? Vist www.cabriere.co.za/country-wide-pop-up-dinners/
INGREDIENTS
Makes about 3 cups 800g small red plums 2 cups sugar 750ml bottle vodka, or another clear, flavourless spirit
Recipe source: BonAppetit
METHOD Combine plums and sugar in a large jar or pot and add vodka. Stir to dissolve sugar and tightly cover. Store in a cool, dark place for at least 3 months before using. Plum wine should taste floral and almost sherry-like, with notes of caramel and raisins.
Chefs Nic van Wyk and Westley Muller hard at work
A New Craft Gin Duo
South Africa’s Silver Creek Craft Distillery brings you two brand new gins from America’s prohibition era. What, made in bathtubs? No, clinically made by professional distillers in small batches and from carefully-selected grains. Silver Creek’s distillers wanted to make a clear craft gin in a new world style—fresh, crisp and not too dry, and infused with traditional botanicals of juniper, coriander, lemon, angelica and cinnamon. The resulting PROHIBITION CRAFT GIN (bottled at 43 per cent alcohol) is versatile and will also suit being served in the form of a gin cocktail, using fresh fruit, herbs and quality craft tonics. Their PROHIBITION PINK GIN (also at 43 per cent alcohol) is further infused with raspberries and blueberries, with a touch of hibiscus flowers and rose water. The new gins retail at around R360 and are available at selected liquor stores around SA. www.silvercreekdistillery.com
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
7
PROFILE | Bruce Jack
Just
JACK W
With over 30 years’ experience within the wine industry, Bruce Jack is making a fresh start
Who in the South African wine industry doesn’t know the name Bruce Jack? You may know him as the winemaker who shot Flagstone to fame, or the man behind The Drift Estate in the Overberg. Most recently, and for the past 10 years, Bruce was the Group Head Winemaker for Accolade Wines—where he was able to use his talents making wine all over the world. Bruce now finds himself at the start of something new. And that is? Bruce Jack Wines. We sit down with Bruce to find out more.
8
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELA ZONDAGH
all the different factors associated with wine, I value value the most. At the ‘lifestyle’ level, where the price allows you to enjoy everyday wine, that’s where I’m aiming. That’s how one builds long-term, loyal followers. And that’s what Bruce Jack Wines are going to be about. Why did you feel now was the right time to bring out a new range? The timing was right. I resigned as group head winemaker from Accolade
Wines in January this year, after 10 great years with the company. After being exposed to many styles and ways of doing things I thought it was time to launch my own brand and wine business again. Value aside, what is going to make your wines stand apart? Three things differentiate the Bruce Jack Wines from most other offerings out there. Firstly, the brand is globally sourced, with wines coming from
Photograph by Daniela Zondagh
How did you first get into wine? I started packing shelves in a local bottle store when I was 16, so I’ve been around the block a few times. Most of that time I’ve been a winemaker though. I’ve been in the industry now for over 30 years. That’s a long time… I guess I’ve seen a lot in this industry and certainly made most of the mistakes there are to make. But I’ve also learnt a lot through these experiences, including that wine made truthfully can add joy to life. That’s easy to say, but not so easy to achieve. And the idea behind Bruce Jack Wines? The ‘lifestyle’ end of the winemaking spectrum fascinates me just as much as the very top, superpremium end. Besides the challenge of crafting wines, I am intrigued by the concept of value. Value is an unambiguous concept. So amongst
Bruce Jack | PROFILE
vineyards in South Africa, Chile, Australia and Spain. Secondly, the wine is made in partnership with uniWines in the Breedekloof Valley (an amalgamation of four massive wineries) and, lastly, we blend in between 5 per cent and 20 per cent of wines from other cool-climate areas. In so doing we can craft wines that not only sell at a really good price, but have both character and complexity. Your label designs have been some of the most beautiful we’ve seen—can you tell us more about the Bruce Jack label in particular? The Bruce Jack label was designed by the brilliant Rohan Etsebeth of Fanakolo Design. We work with many designers, including Andrew van der Merwe and Brian Plimsol. My wife oversees all the designs. She is a designer and artist herself, so we have an incredibly talented team.
“
with it a positive energy. When you consume the wine and you are open to this energy, you will be buoyed by it. That would make me very proud. What plans do you have to expand the range? From South Africa we will launch with a Pinotage, Shiraz and a Sauvignon Blanc. Then we’d like to add a Chenin Blanc and Cinsault in time. That should keep us busy. Especially making each wine the best it can be in its price category. How and where is the best way to enjoy a glass of Bruce Jack? Probably on top of Lion’s Head, watching the sun go down over the Atlantic Ocean. Around a braai would come a close second. Or on a game drive in the Kruger. Any food pairings you’ve tried and loved? Each wine goes well with specific foods, but all go well in a Jacuzzi.
A M O NGST A L L THE DI FFERENT FAC TO RS ASSO C I ATED W I TH W I NE, I VA LU E VA LU E TH E MOST
What makes you pay attention to label design? We think it’s important to put a lot of work and thought into the designs, as we want what’s on the outside to reflect the time and dedication that goes into the inside. Wine is the full package from that perspective. It needs to be thought through with meticulous detail, from the vineyards all the way to the label. Get any stage wrong and the whole proposition can fall apart. What do you want people to experience when drinking Bruce Jack? Firstly, that they have stumbled across an amazing value-for-money experience. Secondly, I want the wine to add joy to a meal, a conversation, even a dream. Wine made truthfully, with intent and with passion, carries
”
What would you say is the best part of making wine? Without a doubt the blending. Winemaking is essentially a craft, but during the magic of blending it can approach art. And the most difficult? I can’t really think of a difficult part. Except maybe negotiating a good price from the Wine-of-the-Month Club. No, that’s not true… Bruce Jack’s latest wine range is available through Wine-of-the-Month Club
To purchase these wines Call 086 111 9463 or visit www.wineofthemonth.co.za
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
9
C H O C O L AT E A N D C O F F E E E X P O , 1 9 - 2 2 J U LY If you like nothing better than sipping on a good brew (and by brew we mean coffee this time) and indulging in some of the best chocolate, then don’t miss this Jozi expo at Montecasino. You can expect tastings, workshops, as well as chocolatemaking and coffee-roasting demos. Decaf anyone? www.coffeechoc.co.za
WHAT’S ON Festivals and events around SA
Rober ts on Slow Food & Wi n e F e s t i v a l , 3 - 5 A u g u s t
Explore a wealth of history and enjoy authentic wine experiences at this, the 11th annual, SLOW FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL. This wintertime treat will take place at various wineries and tourism establishments in and around Robertson, where you can enjoy all the unique food and wine offerings this charming town has to offer. www.robertsonslow.com
RED WINE RENDEZVOUS, 28 JUNE & 30 AUGUST What better way to keep warm than with red wine and wholesome, delicious food? Head to THE RED WINE RENDEZVOUS at Steenberg’s popular Bistro Sixteen82 where oh-so-talented Chef Kerry Kilpin will prepare a hearty 3-course dinner to be enjoyed alongside a variety of Steenberg’s most-loved red wines. R395pp. www.steenbergfarm.com/bistro1682 CHE SYRAH, SYRAH, 28 JULY Gabriëlskloof Estate in the Overberg invites you to join their first-ever CHE SYRAH, SYRAH wine experience where they cast a spotlight on an impressive portfolio of Syrah wines in their newly-converted Landscape Cellar. This showcase also includes a hearty country-inspired lunch, complete with crackling fires and comforts to keep you cosy. Tickets are R450pp. www.gabrielskloof.co.za
1 0
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
DURBAN BIERFEST, 31 AUGUST-1 SEPTEMBER South Africa’s biggest beer festival is back and this time includes a massive 4000-seater Bavarian Brauhaus at Durban’s Sibaya Casino and Entertainment World. Sponsored by South African Breweries, this beer swigging shindig is said to be the ‘next best thing’ to attending the actual Munich Oktoberfest. Plus, there’s lots of local Bavarian foods to try in-between all the beers. www.bierfest.co.za
Kottabos (Ancient Greek) was a game of skill played at ancient Greek and Etruscan symposia (drinking parties), especially in the 5th and 4th centuries BC. The game is played by flinging wine lees at targets. Kottabos is a new range from Boschkloof wines where winemaker Reenen Borman is focusing and ‘playing’ with specific vineyard sites in the Polkadraai area of Stellenbosch. The Stellenbosch hills are situated close to False Bay and consists mostly of decomposed granite which is ideal for certain wine varietals. The wines are made with a hands-of approach to allow for a true expression of the terrior.
www.boschkloofwines.com Contact +27 21 881 3268 | Email: info@boschkloofwines.com
AU NATUREL Unlocking nature’s true potential comes naturally at Waterkloof Estate in the Helderberg wine region, where cutting edge sustainable farming endeavours and untamed winemaking reign supreme. Here one can pair honest wines that speak of elegance and vitality with a contemporary dining experience in the sky and omnipresent views of the farm. Get close to nature with guided walking tours, hop on a helicopter for an eagle’s view of this biodynamic bastion or saddle up for a tranquil horseback excursion amidst indigenous fauna and flora. Enjoy insightful, tutored wine tastings served up with glistening False Bay in the distance or watch how the masters create world-renowned, slow matured cheddar cheese at Healey’s Deli, where a relaxed setting calls for unhurried al fresco family lunches. Visit Waterkloof for unsurpassed, unadulterated winelands entertainment.
www.waterkloofwines.co.za Email: info@waterkloofwines.co.za | Tel: 021 858 1292 | Address: Sir Lowry’s Pass Road, Somerset West
Wine Gifts | WINE PRODUCTS
Champagne Top Display Case, R99 from Wine-of-the-Month Club
Wine Aerator Holder, R1675 from Carrol Boyes
Schott Zwiesel Pure Bordeaux Glass 680ml 6 Piece, R774.80 from Banks Kichten Boutique
10 Gift Ideas FOR WINOS
Wine Cooler, R14 299 from SnoMaster
Cosmic Tray, R995 from Block & Chisel The New Wine Rules, R229 from Exclusive Books
Know someone who loves wine? Yeah, we thought so
Wine Rack, R895 from Weylandts Crystal Decanter, R1200 from David Jones
Wine Tote, R1299 from Arrow Leather Goods
At Rest Bottle Stopper, R265 from Carrol Boyes SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
1 3
FOOD | Chef Profile
Song of the Sea
Tajine du Maghreb
‘Chantel combines her classical French training with her love for nature in her signature botanical cuisine’
THE FUTU RE IS FEMALE
in the way their dishes are creatively plated and presented to their guests. “I enjoy seeing the difference in the style of cooking and presentation between male and female chefs,” she says. “I am delighted that more women are making their mark in the food and wine industry.” Along with being named the world’s Best Female Chef last year, Chantel was placed 32 in the Top 100 Chefs of the World, and is the only South African to feature in the Top 100 list. At the annual Eat Out Restaurant Awards she has twice been named South African Chef of the Year, while Restaurant Mosaic continues to be placed in the top 10 eating establishments in the country. Best to book your table soon. For more information, go to www.restaurantmosaic.com
Named the world’s Best Female Chef at The Best Chef Awards 2017, Chantel Dartnall is embracing her femininity and taking inspiration from nature
G
rowing up in Pretoria, it wasn’t until her late teens that Chantel Dartnell took a real interest in cooking. After school, she enrolled at Prue Leith Chef ’s Academy in Centurion. She was then awarded a scholarship to study at Johnson and Wales University in Rhode Island. Next she moved to London and—fresh off the plane—began emailing every two- and three-star chefs in the Michelin Guide. Half an hour later, Chef Nico at 90 Park Lane emailed her back asking when she could start. Fast forward a few years and— working alongside a number of chef heavyweights such as Alain Ducasse and Marco Pierre White—Chantel decided to return to South Africa and began working at Restaurant Mosaic at The 1 4
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Orient in Pretoria. And it was at the Orient where Chantel could develop her own unique style of cooking—along with her renowned plating style and presentation. Chantel combines her classical French training with her love for nature in what’s become known as her signature botanical cuisine. Taking cues from nature and using only the best organic and seasonal produce, Chantel’s current menu at Restaurant Mosaic includes dishes such as Song of the Sea (salmon, kombucha, yuzu); Some Birds Don’t Fly (ostrich, beetroot, plum); and The Clash of Constellations (passion fruit, mango, fresh berries). Chantel has always embraced her femininity and feels that it is important for chefs to reveal their true personalities
A Small Prelude, the amuse-bouche
Winter
WARMERS Hearty family recipes to keep you warm
Duck Breast with Herbs and Raspberries on p.17
BRUCE JACK’S Pairing Suggestion
5 0
The Drift Estate Moveable Feast Estate Red
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
SADDLE OF VENISON WITH APPLE SAUCE Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 1 kg venison loin, trimmed of excess fat 2 tbsp sunflower oil 6 rashers streaky bacon 75 ml brandy 150 ml chicken stock 150 ml double cream salt freshly ground black pepper 2 tbsp butter 2 medium eating apples, cored and sliced 4 tbsp walnuts, chopped 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, chopped purple thyme sprigs METHOD 1. For the Venison: Preheat the oven to 220°C. 2. Generously season the venison loin with salt and pepper. Heat the oil, in an ovenproof sauté or frying pan set over a moderate heat, until hot. 3. Brown the venison in the hot oil until golden all over, making sure to seal the ends well. 4. Remove from the pan and wrap with the bacon rashers, making sure the seams are facing down. Return the venison to the pan with the seams facing down. 5. Transfer to the oven, roasting the venison for 8-10 min until the centre registers 54°C on a meat thermometer, for rare to medium-rare, or roast for longer, for more well-done meat. 6. Remove from the oven and transfer the venison to a plate, wrapping it loosely with aluminium foil. 7. Return the pan to a medium heat, deglazing with the brandy. Let it reduce by two-thirds before adding the stock. 8. Bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a small saucepan. 9. Whisk in the cream and return to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper before keeping warm to one side. 10. For the Apple Sauce: In the meantime, melt the butter in a large sauté pan set over a moderate heat. Add the 1 6
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Saddle of Venison with Apple Sauce
apple slices and a pinch of salt, sautéing until softened and slightly coloured, about 5-6 min. 11. To Serve: Cut the venison into slices and arrange on plates. Spoon the apples and sauce around the plate. 12. Garnish with walnuts and herbs before serving.
BRUCE JACK’S
Pairing Suggestion
Bruce Jack Pinotage
UNLEAVENED BREAD PIZZAS WITH DATE TOMATOES AND GOAT’S CHEESE (GLUTEN-FREE) Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 425 g gluten-free plain flour mix, plus extra for dusting 4 tsp gluten-free baking powder 1 tbsp castor sugar ¼ tsp xanthan gum 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing 250-300 ml lukewarm water, plus extra as needed 225 g mixed olives, pitted 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 280 g baby plum tomatoes, halved 4 tbsp baby capers in brine, drained 4 tbsp capers in brine, drained 10-12 canned anchovies in oil, drained 165 g soft goat’s cheese, roughly torn 1 small bunch thyme sprigs, roughly chopped freshly ground black pepper METHOD 1. For the dough: Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. Combine the flour mix, baking powder, sugar, xanthan gum, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the middle and pour in the extra-virgin olive oil and 250ml of water. 3. Mix to a smooth dough, adding more flour or water as needed if too dry or wet; it should be soft and even. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead briefly. 4. Divide the dough in half and roll out on a lightly floured surface into large ovals about 0.5 cm thick. 5. Lift onto large baking trays and brush all over with extra-virgin olive oil. Cover with damp tea towels. 6. For the toppings: Combine the olives, garlic, and extra-virgin olive oil in a food processor or blender. Pulse until you have a rough tapenade. Season to taste with pepper. 7. Bake the flatbreads for 12-15 min until browned all over and cooked through.
Unleavened Bread Pizzas with Date Tomatoes and Goat’s Cheese
BRUCE JACK’S
Pairing Suggestion
The Drift Estate Far From The Crowd White Blend
8. Remove from the oven and leave to cool briefly before spreading with the tapenade. Top with the baby plum tomatoes, baby capers, capers, anchovies, Goat’s cheese and thyme. 9. Season with a little freshly ground black pepper before serving. DUCK BREAST WITH HERBS AND RASPBERRIES Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 2 duck breasts, about 300 g each salt freshly ground black pepper 4-5 sprigs lavender, stripped, reserving a sprig for garnish 2 sprigs oregano, leaves stripped 1 tbsp orange juice 2 tbsp honey 100g raspberries
METHOD 1. Heat the oven to 160°C. 2. Cut a diamond pattern into the skin of the duck breasts. Season with salt and ground black pepper and fry gently, skinside down, for about 5 min until golden brown. Turn and fry briefly on the other side. Place in an oven-proof dish, skin side up. 3. In a small saucepan, warm the lavender and oregano with the orange juice and honey. Glaze the duck with this mixture, then roast in the oven for 20 min until cooked but still pink. Brush from time to time with the rest of the glaze. 4. Add the raspberries for the last 5 min. At the end of the cooking time, turn on the grill function briefly if necessary. 5. Take out of the oven and leave to rest briefly. Serve cut into slices and garnished with the reserved lavender, and serve with a salad if desired. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
1 7
Founded in 1963, Nuy Winery in Worcester produces a large spectrum of wines including MÊthode Cap Classique, and both red and white varietals. Now, for the first time, Nuy introduces a wooded Chenin Blanc named Calcareo. This full-bodied and wood-matured Chenin is only available from November 2018. Calcareo is part of Nuy’s premium range which can be tasted and bought at the beautiful Nuy Winery on the hill. Pop in for a visit and enjoy a wide variety of delicious wines and delectable food. Top it off by treating yourself and take home a bottle of Nuy Brandy or the soon-to-be released Nuy Craft Gin.
www.nuywinery.co.za Contact: +27 (0)23 347 0272 | Email: wines@nuywinery.co.za
THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)
Platinum Club • The High Road Director's Reserve 2013 R389.00 • Boschkloof Epilogue 2016 R699.99 • Neil Ellis Jonkershoek Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 R379.00 • De Krans Cape Vintage Reserve Port 2015 R329.99 • Cape of Good Hope Riebeekrivier Caroline 2014 R279.00 • Chamonix Chardonnay Reserve 2015 R445.00 Reserve • Idiom Zinfandel 2015 R275.99 • Whalehaven Pinotage 2015 R179.99 • Rainbow’s End Cabernet Franc 2016 R269.99 • Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismark 2015 R205.00 • Nuy Mastery Calcareo Chenin Blanc 2017 R208.99 • DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2016 R216.99 • De Krans Cape Vintage Reserve Port 2015 R329.99
SA’S TOP WINE PICKS Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections
Waterkloof Peacock Wild Ferment Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Featuring in Best Value
This wine shows distinct dark berry and pencil shaving flavours, which one would expect from a Cabernet Sauvignon—but it has a fine tannin structure that’s lifted by an elegant and gentle acidity. PAIRING: Enjoy with a simple pizza or a juicy sirloin steak. Org de Rac Reserve Shiraz 2015 Featuring in Wine-of-the-Month Club
A complex rich, ripe wine with a deep vibrant ruby colour. Lingering blueberry fruit is enhanced by
David Biggs
Margaret Fundira
Winnie Bowman
Colin Collard
nuances of spice. An elegant backdrop of well-structured, integrated oak adds intensity and length to the wine. PAIRING: Enjoy with lamb shank or our favourite red meat dishes. DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2016 Featuring in Reserve
The nose shows notes of concentrated orange and yellow stone fruits, with a hint of spice, citrus and blossoms. The palate is full-bodied, textured and nuanced with a lingering aftertaste. PAIRING: Enjoy with creamy chicken dishes or seafood pasta.
Claude Felbert
PJ ‘Buks’ Nel
Christine Rudman
Gregory Mutambe
Wine-of-the-Month Club • Whalehaven Pinotage 2015 R179.99 • Van Loveren Retief Reserve Cape Blend 2016 R128.00 • Org de Rac Reserve Shiraz 2015 R159.99 • L’Avenir Provenance Merlot 2017 R125.99 • Doran Arya 2017 R85.99 • Allée Bleue Isabeau 2014 R124.99 • Neil Ellis Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc 2017 R89.95 • Pulpit Rock Reserve Chenin Blanc 2016 R119.99 • Sunkissed Natural Sweet White NV R59.99 • Boschendal le Bouquet 2017 R59.99 • Koelenhof Koelnektar Gewürztraminer 2017 R61.99 • Boplaas Cape Vintage Port 2016 R129.99 Best Value • Kleine Rust Reserve Merlot 2015 R99.50 • Waterkloof Peacock Wild Ferment Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 R81.99 • Simonsig Mr Borio Shiraz 2015 R98.99 • Waverley Hills SMV 2013 R114.99 • Allée Bleue Sauvignon Blanc 2017 R79.99 • Reyneke Organic White 2017 R73.99 • Niel Joubert 'Enita' Sauvignon Blanc 2017 R85.50 • De Wet Chardonnay 2017 R81.99 • Sunkissed Natural Sweet White NV R59.99 • Koelenhof Koelnetar Gewürztraminer 2017 R61.99 • Boschendal Le Bouquet 2017 R59.99 • De Krans Cape Vintage Port 2016 R114.00
Clive Torr
Irina von Holdt
To purchase these wines and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za. WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA
Tinashe Nyamudoka
Nick Le Roux
wine | Panel Reports
From In f ant s to
Fully Mature exciting wines make us smile By Irina von Holdt CWM
2 0
sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR
Panel Reports | wine
DiD you Know? Parma ham pairs well with fruity Sauvignon Blancs and rosés
W
e know we’re having a happy, feel-good tasting when the panel laughs and jokes—surely that’s what good wine is all about? It’s also wonderful to be able to report on these, rather than those dreary affairs where we pucker our mouths and mutter darkly. So it is with great pleasure that we report on two delightful categories that had the panel all agog. The first is a work-in-progress and the second a jewel in the crown of SA winemaking. The UnUSUAl Red VARIeTIeS This category always gives us something new and exciting, but can also be deemed ‘interesting’ rather than good. let’s call it a vinous voyage of discovery. new varieties are streaming in continually—who has heard of nero d’Avola or Tannat? Anyway, the comments: dave: “Some pleasant surprises and some ‘Why would I drink these?’” Winemaker Clive has other ideas, “exciting to see exotic varieties. I’d like to blend these—I could do an Italian blend and a Rhône blend and a...” Whew! he gets carried away. Some of the wines have lit a fuse under him. So then we look at the different varieties as groups. We decide the Malbecs and Cabernet Francs are always good. But then they’re classic Bordeaux varieties, well-tried and tested for centuries over there, aside from being well established here. Which brings
Wines TasTed by The Panel unusuAl White Wine-of-the-Month Club: Nitida Semillon 2017. Also liked: Stellenbosch Vineyards Limited Release Verdelho 2016, Painted Wolf Roussanne 2015, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2017, Rustenberg Stellenbosch Roussanne 2017. Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: Alvi’s Drift Signature Viognier 2017, Anura Viognier 2016, Bellevue Muscat’ D Alexandrie 2017, Creation Viognier 2017, Elemental Retro Series Grenache Blanc 2016, Idiom Viognier 2015, Kranskop Viognier 2016, Lothian Vineyards Riesling 2016, McGregor Colombard 2017, Overhex Balance Limited Edition Pinot Grigio 2017, Simonsig Verdelho 2016, Tanagra Colombar Single Vineyard 2017, Van Loveren Neil’s Pick Colombar 2017, Van Loveren Pinot Grigio 2017, Whalehaven Old Harbour White Viognier NV.
CAbernet sAuvignon
us to an important consideration: time and experience are necessary for a winemaker to get to know and understand a variety. So any new arrival in the cellar is not a guaranteed smooth ride. We have a good laugh at some of the Cinsaut wines, clearly made by young winemakers still feeling their way. We laugh because it had been a Cape staple for decades, that is, until about 25 years ago when, sadly, it was deemed not good enough to compete with the likes of Cabernet and Shiraz. now suddenly chic and hip, a new generation of winemakers are falling around trying to get to grips with Cinsaut—and it shows. “They can be delicate and light, but perhaps they’re trying to be too serious,” offers nic, our newest panel member and a winemaker too. Irina thinks it’s young vines. “There’s no decent old vine concentration here,”
Wine-of-the-Month Club: Louisvale Stone Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2015. Also liked: Stony Brook Ghost Gum Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, L’Avenier Provenance Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Calitzdorp Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Edgebaston Cabernet Sauvignon 2015. Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: De Wet Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Farmer Redbeard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Flagstone Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Footprint Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Gravel Junction Mount Vernon Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Kaapzicht Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Longridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, MAN Tormentoso Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, StarkConde Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Stellenbosch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Van Loveren Four Cousins Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Van Loveren Rhino Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Van Loveren Tangled Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Villiera Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Warwick First Lady Cabernet Sauvignon 2016.
sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR
2 1
wine | Panel Reports
Like all new varieties Grenache is still a work-in-progress. But watch it because, as we said at the beginning, experience counts.
she says, “they’re a bit lean and gawky. But then I’m thinking of those old Tassies’ that were so gorgeous.” “Yeah, but a couple of these surprise me as they have a sort of Pinot Noir-ness about them,” says Clive. But then, being the PN fan he is, he’ll find it almost anywhere. Which brings us to Pinot Noir. We’ve tasted a number over several tastings and the general consensus is that they disappoint mainly because of tough tannin and a lack of balance. Pinot should be velvety and smooth textured, never angular or tough. One of the great classic varieties, it can seduce and charm the most demanding of palates, but it’s also recognised as being difficult and supremely challenging in the cellar. We move on to more recherché varieties: Tempranillo —“loved it” from Irina. Petit Syrah—well liked but not loved. Malbec—“deep dark and intense, a bit floral too,” from Nic. Sangiovese— “star of the show,” from Christine. We’re all surprised that Grenache doesn’t show too well. But then it is where Sangiovese was some years ago when winemakers were finding their way with it. It’s now emerged as a real star.
2 2
sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR
PORT SIDE Outside of Portugal, South Africa is undoubtedly the leader in producing high quality port-style wines. It has taken years of study and many trips to the Douro region in Portugal, as well as wise vineyard plantings and careful nurturing of the vineyards and their grapes, to get to where we are now. No quick fixes, but rather steady, intelligent and very hard work. Also, we respect the formal classification of styles from Portugal: Ruby, Tawny, Vintage, Vintage Reserve and Late Bottled Vintage. Christine praises the Rubies. “As a group these are nice wines,” she says. “Rubies must be beguiling, to lure and seduce consumers and get them into Ports generally. There are two no-nos though—no oak on taste, and no age— they are meant to be youthful and fresh.” “But then there’s a misunderstanding among some winemakers,” says Irina, “because a few of these are obviously quite mature and heavy.” “No misunderstanding,” says Christine. “They’re just taking a chance as it’s a ‘must-have’ for a cellar.”
Wines TasTed by The Panel dry White blend Wine-of-the-Month Club: Rascallion 33 1/3 RPM 2017. Also liked: Stony Brook Ghost Gum White 2016, Highlands Road Sine Cera 2014, Kaapzicht Kaleidescope 2017, Lammershoek Terravinum Reserve White 2015. Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: Elemental Bob My Cosmic Hand White Blend 2015, Footprint Chenin Blanc Semillon 2017, Haut Espoir Cloudfall 2016, Haute Cabriére Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2017, Hidden Valley Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2016, Landskroon Paul Hugo White 2017, MAN Family Wines 2017, McGregor The Delicious Monster 2017, Nature Reserve Chenin Blanc Viognier 2016, Rascallion Aquiver 2016, Reyneke Organic White 2017, Signal Gun Muy Scattie 2017, Sumaridge Maritius 2012, Van Loveren Blanc de Blanc 2017, Waverley Hills Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2017.
pinotAge Wine-of-the-Month Club: Rijk’s Private Cellar Pinotage 2013. Also liked: Overhex Survivor Pinotage 2016, Simonsig Redhill Pinotage 2016, Rijk’s Reserve Pinotage 2014, Dornier Pinotage 2015. Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: Calitzdorp Pinotage 2016, Gravel Junction Three Peaks Pinotage 2015, Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage 2016, Lammershoek ‘The Innocent‘ Pinotage 2015, L’Avenir Provenance Pinotage 2015, Overhex Balance Winemaker Selection Pinotage 2017, Painted Wolf ‘Black Pack’ Pinotage 2016, Painted Wolf Guillermo Pinotage 2014, Raka Pinotage 2016, Rijk’s Touch of Oak Pinotage 2014, Stellenbosch Vineyards Pinotage 2016, Stellenrust Cornerstone Pinotage 2015, Van Loveren African Java Pinotage 2017, Van Loveren Rhino Run Pinotage 2015, Vriesenhof Pinotage 2016.
Panel Reports | WINE
We prefer not to comment on the only Tawny, which is disappointing and hardly representative. Late Bottled Vintages are good with a couple of fine old wines that are ready to drink now. We move on to Vintage and Vintage Reserve, the real stars, and the smiles change to broad grins. “I can’t tell you how many times I wrote ‘silky’. And I had no low scores,” says Christine. “Really, really good,” says Claude. “Expertise and experience pay off, and it shows,” says Irina.
“And the money to do it,” adds Colin. “The best examples are those made from Portuguese grape varieties,” says Christine. “They have the concentration, and that gorgeous, silky mouthfeel. You can drink them now but they’re going to last a very long time.” “They are all really great,” says Colin. “Even the one made from Pinotage.” The difference between Vintage and Vintage Reserve is mainly in concentration of fruit and the quality of the tannins. The Reserves are inkier and more firm. It must be said that they, too, show that remarkable quality of being ready-to-drink, but they will almost always outlast the Vintages. “And you can put the cork back in and have a go at it over a week,” announces Christine. Colin sums up: “What an exciting category. As I always say, if I have to die by drowning then let it be in a barrel of Port.”
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL NON BORDEAUX WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Guardian Peak Summit 2014. ALSO LIKED: Holden Manz Vernissage 2013, Deux Freires Franternite 2013, Rust en Vrede Estate 2014, Sijnn Low Profile 2015. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Ayama Leopard Spot Red 2013, Bizoe RNW Cape Blend 2016, Boplaas Gamka 2015, Eagle’s Cliff Shiraz Pinotage 2014, Fable Night Sky 2014, Freedom Hill Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Grangehurt Daylea Red 2007, Groote Post The Old Man’s Blend Red 2016, HaskeII 2013, Holden Manz Vernissage 2014, Koelenbosch 1941 Red Blend 2015, Remhoogte Chronicle Cape Blend 2014, Reyneke Organic Red 2016, Sijnn Red 2012, Stellenbosch Credo SMV 2015.
Situated at the bottom of the breathtaking slopes of Stellenbosch Mountain you’ll find Dornier Wine Estate. A unique and modern winery which has been producing fine wines since 2002, and led by the principles of tradition inspired by perfection. Donier is not only home to a beautiful wine cellar, but also home to Dornier Bodega Restaurant where visitors can enjoy contemporary farm cuisine inspired by fresh, local ingredients. An essential destination of the Cape winelands, Donier invites guests to savour fine wines and delectable food, whilst taking in the unique architecture of Dornier Cellar and the unmatched views of Stellenbosch Mountain.
WWW.DORNIER.CO.ZA Address: Dornier Wines, Blaauwklippen Road, Stellenbosch 7599 | Tel: +27 (021) 880 0557 | Email: info@dornier.co.za
@dornierwines
STELLENRUST | Old Vines
How Stellenrust's old vines are producing award-winning wines
M
ore and more local and international wine professionals are hailing South Africa’s old vine heritage as being able to produce increasingly good wines. Sadly, many of these remaining old vines are under threat of being uprooted to make way for newer, more productive and fashionable vines. Thankfully, Stellenrust—an historic Stellenbosch property—is blessed with 11 per cent of all their plantings being classified as old vines (35 years or older) with much of it being Chenin Blanc and Cinsaut. Stellenrust co-owner and cellarmaster Tertius Boshoff relishes in the opportunity and says, “Old vines are like old people—they have seen good times and bad come and go, and are at peace with themselves, comfortable in the knowledge that they can deal with anything.”
‘Stellenrust is blessed with 11 per cent of all their plantings being classified as old vines’
Old Vines | STELLENRUST
Stellenrust’s Awards The proof is in the old vine pudding, with Stellenrust’s recent list of acclaimed awards for their Chenins, Cinsaut and Shiraz:
Now it’s not that old vines are necessarily easier or produce ‘better’ fruit, however, says Tertius, “Older vines produce smaller berries, this leads to powerful fruit concentration and consequently more structured wines; there’s a greater ratio of tannin-packed skin to juice. We see vintage-on-vintage that’s of consistent quality and beautiful pH levels in the juice.” Kobie van der Westhuizen co-owner and viticulturist of Stellenrust states, “There’s a sense of place which old vines give—and it might mean sacrificing yields versus a younger, more vigorous vine, but the resultant quality and unique character is beyond price. It’s crucial for a good winemaker to know his vineyards,” Van Der Westhuizen states. “We are just custodians of old vines. They know how best to express their fruit in that particular vintage and we just have to shepherd that into bottle.”
STELLENRUST BARREL FERMENTED Chenin Blanc ‘53’ 2017 (Vineyards 53 years old) *IWC Gold Medal STELLENRUST Chenin Blanc 2017 *Decanter Gold Medal *IWC Silver Medal *IWSC Silver Outstanding *Platters Wine Guide 4 stars STELLENRUST BARREL FERMENTED Chenin Blanc ‘52’ 2016 (Vineyards 52 years old) *IWC Gold Medal *Platters Wine Guide 5 stars *IWSC Chenin Blanc Trophy (The best Chenin in the world 3 out of past 5 years) *Standard Bank Top 10 Chenin Blanc’s South Africa *Emirates Business Class *Michelangelo Double Gold Medal
STELLENRUST OLD BUSH VINE Chenin Blanc 2016 *International Wine Challenge (IWC) *South African Chenin Blanc Trophy *IWC South African White Wine Trophy *IWSC Gold Medal STELLENRUST PEPPERGRINDER’S Shiraz 2015 *IWC Silver Medal *Etihad First and Business class STELLENRUST OLD BUSHVINE Cinsaut (Vineyards 54 years old) *Decanter Gold Medal *IWSC Silver Outstanding AVAILABLE FROM Stellenrust Family Wines 021 880 2283 | info@stellenrust.co.za
WWW.STELLENRUST.CO.ZA Off the R44 on Stellenrust Road.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
2 5
CONNOISSEUR’S
CHOICE
A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY
Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
1. Wellington Moscato Blushing Pino Frizzante NV (Price R61.99) Expect taste profiles of candy floss, Turkish delight, rose water and picnics. Delicate bubbles dance playfully on the palate, leaving zesty notes of raspberry cheesecake. Drink now. PAIRING: Great with summer salads, cheese and fruit.
4. Yardstick Marvelous Yellow 2016 (Price R79.99) An initial brace of sea-spray reveals powerful tropical notes of litch and lime giving way to subtle waxy, honeysuckle aromatics. Papaya, custard, apple and blood orange flavours form an exotic mélange that is balanced by a bead of chalky acidity that lends the wine a lasting finish.
7. Boulevard Rosé MCC NV (Price R199.00) Aromas of fresh, sweet strawberry, raspberry and cherry on the nose, followed by a perfect blend of taste, body and finish in a beautiful and stylish black bottle—making Boulevard an elegant addition to any occasion. Drink now. PAIRING: Red meats, fruity desserts and a cheese and cracker platter.
Drink now or keep until 2020.
2. Stellenbosch Family Wines Blend 2015 (Price R105.93) This wine has a spicy nose with hints of blackcurrant, eucalyptus and cloves. Fruit cake, white pepper and delicate oak finish on the palate with a lingering finish. Keep for up to 8 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with spicy foods, curry, steak, leg of lamb with rosemary, or pasta with tomato sauce.
3. Journey’s End Pastor’s Blend 2016 (Price R98.99) This Old World-style red blend displays rich, dark red fruit aromas including blackcurrant and ripe cherries. These aromas follow through to the palate and are accompanied by sweet tobacco and Christmas cake characters. This wine has a wellintegrated tannic structure showing elegance and a lengthy finish. Drink now or in the next 5 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with beef or steak.
PAIRING: Malay-style prawn risotto. 5. Rascallion Wines 33 1/3 RPM White Blend 2017 (Price R124.00) Each of the five varietals impart different elements to the wine, creating aromatic and layered hints of freshness and floral aromas extending into well-rounded malva, savoury peach, fresh pear, pineapple flavours, and a soft, white tannin finish. Drink now or in 3 years. PAIRING: Asian stir fry, Thai green curry or spicy pork.
8. Saxenburg Private Collection Brut MCC NV (Price R238.00) Fresh apple and yeasty flavours complement the wine’s biscuity richness. It is crisp and fresh on the palate with some yeasty and bready flavours and ample structure. The finish is long and smooth. This wine will develop nicely over time and will become more complex. Drink now or in 3 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with an aperitif, oysters, sushi or any delicate seafoods.
6. Perdeberg Vineyard Collection Pinotage 2015 (Price R97.99) A delicious combination of prunes, cherries and ripe berry notes with slight hints of vanilla oak on the nose. The palate is filled with ripe fruit, rich tannins and a long, lingering aftertaste. Drink now or in 3 years. PAIRING: Tuna steak or roasted pork shoulder.
9. Koelenbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (Price R76.66) This Sauvignon Blanc’s bouquet boasts a mix of summertime tropical fruit flavours. The finish on the palate is fresh and long with passion fruit dominating. Drink now or until 2019. PAIRING: Excellent with fish, poultry or any Asian cuisine.
‘These aromas are accompanied by sweet tobacco and Christmas cake characters’ SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
2 7
WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
10. Anthonij Rupert Optima 2013 (Price R201.74) An interplay of spice and blackberry fruits on both the nose and palate. The mouth is succulent and packed with black cherry, blueberry and plum. Adding to its complexity is a notable violet hint and inky depth. Restrained use of oak and deliciously long with a finish that lingers. Drinks now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with braised beef short rib or roast leg of lamb.
11. Radford Dale Chardonnay 2016 (Price R252.18) Restraining acidity, citrus flavours and integrated oaking form the introverted side of this wine’s character. Ripeness and great persistence on the palate show the more expansive side. A Chardonnay that’s focused on backbone not butter. Drink now or in 10+ years. PAIRING: Roast chicken or creamy pasta dishes.
12. Ernst Gouws & Co Merlot 2015 (Price R119.99) A richly-satisfying mouthful of dark plums and stewed fruit, this Merlot is full of earthy flavours with dark chocolate hints, savoury dried meat and plenty of spicy highlights. Finishing off with soft tannins and a rounded mouthfeel. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Beef casserole or a classic lamb potjie.
2 8
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
13. Neil Joubert ‘Etina’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (Price R76.66 ) Delicate aromas of fresh grass cuttings, hints of lime and nettle meet you on the nose. Followed by a bouquet of lively fruit-filled flavours lifted by a firm, crisp acidity. Ending off with a zesty, dry finish that lingers nicely. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoy with smoked salmon served with rösti or a spicy calamari salad with chorizo and chilli dressing.
14. Warwick Denman Chardonnay 2015 (Price R169.99) This Chardonnay is wonderfully and deliciously rich and indulgent with soft hints of citrus, followed with lime, minerality and pops of creamy butterscotch. Drink now or in 5 years PAIRING: Enjoy with a selection of your favourite seafood or Thai curries.
15. Peter Bayly III 2014 (Price R197.99) A bright crimson wine unfurling a bouquet of macerated black cherry, subtle allspice, fynbos, warm slate, black tea and liquorice root undertones from this most deft combination of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barocca and Souzão. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: An elegant vintage which deserves decanting, with comforting farm fare or a fine selection of charcuterie and soft cheeses.
16. Vergelegen DNA 2013 (Price R254.99) A compote of rich, ripe berry fruit that’s nicely rounded by chocolate and coffee notes. The tannin structure of this wine is round and soft with a long, lingering aftertaste. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Karoo lamb rack, beef stews or your favourite pasta dishes.
17. Boschendal XO 10yr Potstill Brandy (Price R559.99) Double distilled in pot stills, aged in small oak barrels for a minimum period of 10 years. This blend consists of different ages, minimum 10 years, resulting in tropical pineapple, passion fruit, dried peaches, dates and fig flavours with hints of citrus and sherry Drink now or in a year. PAIRING: Cheeses, rich chocolate mousse with nutty notes. Serve neat with a block of ice to elevate the flavours.
18. False Bay Slow Chenin Blanc 2017 (Price R69.99) The nose is welcoming with prominent floral, white peach and lingering stone fruit aromas. The taste is round and smooth, finishing with slight acids that give the wine a beautiful structure and length. Drink now or in 3 years. PAIRING: Poached chicken breast with braised leaks and curried carrots.
Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
19. L’Avenir Provenance Merlot 2017 (Price R125.99) A medium-bodied wine with finegrained, silky tannins. The palate is smooth and offers seductive notes of crushed pomegranate, fresh cherries and dried cranberries. Refined and sophisticated, with delicate finesse and feminine elegance. Keep for 10–15 years from vintage under ideal cellaring conditions. PAIRING: Enjoy
with spaghetti bolognese.
20. Journey’s End The Huntsman 2016 (Price R98.99) Beautiful dark, ruby red colour with hints of purple. Floral aromatics of violets and lavender with hints of spice. Juicy layers of red and dark berries coming through on the palate, with elegant tannins on the finish. Drink now and until 2020. PAIRING: Enjoy with beef, lamb, pork, shellfish or cheese.
21. Stellenbosch Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Price R105.93) Cigar-box aromas and hints of eucalyptus and cloves. Stewed fruit and blackcurrant on the nose followed through with a dark plum finish. Drink in 8 years PAIRING: Steak, leg of lamb with rosemary, pasta with tomato sauce or phutu pap with tomato relish and boerewors.
22. Wildehurst Cinsaut 2017 (Price R224.00) The wine delivers a bouquet of luscious, juicy redcurrants and cranberries that make your mouth water for more. Followed by hints of warm, sweet spices that add to the complexity of the palate. A well balanced, well rounded wine with silky smooth tannins and a firm acidity. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with your favourite meat dishes.
23. Wildehurst Red 2014 (Price R224.00) On the nose you’ll find hints of dark berry hues and spicy white pepper intermingle with characteristic Swartland floral aromas. In the mouth this wine is fresh with a young richness and distinct stony minerality. Drink now or in 6 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with red meat and venison dishes.
24. Ernst Gouws & Co Ninteenfiftytwo 2016 (Price R142.99) The sensitively-wooded Sémillon component adds creamy spice and caramel top-notes to the crisply-fresh Sauvignon Blanc with its flavours of citrus peel and tropical fruit. Complex and layered with great balancing acidity and a lengthy finish. Drink now or in the next 3 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with seared salmon steak or fragrant roast chicken.
Did you know? You can now get flavoured tonic? Why not try Geometric Drinks Company’s range of flavoured tonics to pair with your gin. Available from www.geometricdrinks.co.za
Yo u r w i n e fa q s We ansWer your Wine related questions
I was browsing through an old book called Entertaining with Wines of the Cape, published by the KWV back in 1959, and one of the recipes contained the ingredient “1 cup of government sugar”. What is, or was, government sugar? That’s an interesting historical item. After the austerity and rationing that was imposed during World War II many basic commodities were in short supply. One of these was sugar. The government of the time decreed that sugar producers should produce a certain amount of rough, semi-refined sugar in bulk so poorer people could afford it. It was packed in hessian sacks and grocers weighed the required amount into brown paper bags. Government sugar was often sticky and lumpy, but it contained a good percentage of molasses and had a distinct flavour. The modern equivalent would probably be demarara sugar (at 10 times the price).
We have seen a rapidly-increasing number of brands of gin in our liquor shops, oftenat very high prices. What is gin made of and why has it suddenly become so fashionable? In its most basic form gin is grain alcohol flavored with juniper berries. It is usually diluted with distilled water to a manageable 38 per cent alcohol content. The definition of gin is, however, very loose and says gin must be flavoured with juniper berries “and other botanicals”. This has brought out the creative spirit (excuse the pun) of many liquor producers and “craft gins” are now being made with the added flavours of substances like citrus peel, cardamom, caraway, anise, orris root and cassia bark. This means alcoholic drinks under the generic label of “gin” can vary widely in character. Exploring the exciting world of gin has become a popular pastime among drinkers. Did you know? Wine-of-the-Month Club sells a small selection of locally-produced gin? Go to www.wineofthemonth.co.za to see their latest range I overheard two brandy experts in a Stellenbosch distillery mentioning something about the “angels' share”. What did they mean by this? When brandy is maturing in oak barrels some of the alcohol seeps through the wood and evaporates into the atmosphere. In South African conditions a 300-litre barrel will lose about nine liters a year (the equivalent of a dozen bottles). Workers in brandy cellars refer to this annual loss as the angels’ share. Tradition has it that the angels who look after the precious casks of maturing brandy take their share in payment for their work. South African brandy is usually matured in casks for at least three years, so this represents a loss of 27 liters, or 36 bottles from each cask. The angels obviously enjoy a good party. 3 0
sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR
CAPE BLEND 2016 The Retief Reserve label celebrates over 80 years of winemaking expertise garnered by the Retief family. The family has over three generations which have worked closely with vineyards of the Robertson Valley. The wine is an oak matured Cape Blend, meaning that at least a third of the blend will be Pinotage and the rest is a combination of, what we feel, is outstanding from our vineyards in each vintage. For the 2016 vintage we decided on a blend of Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. This wine symbolizes the pleasure and enjoyment of our winemaking journey, one which we hope is transferred to every consumer who chooses to share in our Van Loveren wines.
www.vanloveren.co.za Email: info@vanloveren.co.za | Tel: 023-6151505
www.rainbowsend.co.za
Contact: +27 (0) 21 885 1719 | Email: info@rainbowsend.co.za
The Sweetest
OF CEREMONIES
A
panel of wine judges met in Paarl recently to assess a large selection of South African Muscadels and found them, by and large, to be excellent. With our sunny climate, who can be the slightest bit surprised that we produce the finest sweet fortified wines in the world? They have been described, rather poetically, as ‘sunshine in a bottle’. Why, then, do the sales of these delicious wines continue to drop year after year? Are our winemakers doing something wrong? Are the marketing gurus missing a trick or two? The judging panel lined up the topscoring wines and gave additional points to the standard of packaging. Many of them were most attractively presented, with innovative bottle shapes and creative, eye-catching labels. So, why are Muscadels not selling as well as they used to do? The answer lies 3 2
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
not in the wines themselves. They are as excellent as ever, and in many cases better then ever. There’s nothing wrong with the presentation, either. They are not attracting buyers because we (the potential buyers) have changed our lifestyle to one that leaves little place for these sweet delights. Apart from the organizers of formal banquets, very few people still serve a different wine with each course. Indeed, not many of us even serve different courses. Lunch, for most, is a hurried affair squeezed in between business assignments, and dinner is usually a single dish—a pizza, casserole or fish and chips—eaten hurriedly before the family’s favourite TV show starts. A glass of Muscadel is the perfect way to round off a good meal, but it should be savoured and sipped to allow diners to experience the sweet, lingering chords that mark the end of a symphony
of flavours. One can’t gulp it down. It’s too rich and concentrated for that. So we plop ourselves down in front of the TV at the end of a meal and grab a beer instead. In today’s fast-moving world we have lost the sense of ceremony that used to add dignity to our lives. We no longer wear evening dress in the evenings. We seldom even wear ties. We no longer respect those in authority because they behave in ways that do not deserve respect. Fortified wines—Port, Sherry and Muscadels—used to be the ‘bow-ties’ of civilized dining, adding respectability. We now slouch through the Banquet of Life in tee shirts and sneakers. I, for one, believe we have lost something precious. Even when I am on my own I shall continue to raise a civilized glass of Muscadel at the end of my meals as a salute to the dignity of a gracious age that has passed forever.
Illustration by: Chloe Damstra
DAVID BIGGS toasts the dignity of a gracious age that has passed us by
“Our labels always needed to tell that story,” says Kobus du Toit, who owns the farm with brother Wynand and their mother, Myra. “The new designs achieve this because they’re eye-catching and, at first sight, unify the pillars of Waverley Hills: we are natural, organic, sustainable, conservation-minded, handcrafted, premium and South African.” Waverley Hills produces premium organic wines that stay true to its terroir with soft ripe tannings and robust fynbos qualities. Sustainable practices and conservation are always at heart to ensure the highest quality wine and preservation of our environment. Today, Waverley Hills is a proud example of a farm working in harmony with nature. It welcomes wine-lovers to its fynbos-landscaped visitor centre, wedding chapel and restaurant.
Email: info@waverleyhills.co.za | Ph: +27 23 231 0002
WAVERLEYHILLS.CO.ZA