Granada Insider - April 2010

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YOUR ESSENTIAL EN G LISH LA N G U A G E M A G A ZIN E

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The good, the bad & the political.

Insider Preview.

We give you all the information to enjoy the best food, culture and nightlife Granada has to offer.

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LETTER FRO M TH E ED ITO R

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INSIDER Editor: Mark Stewart Sub Editor: Claire Walsh Layout and Design: Peter Murray Website: Feature Rich Contributing journalists: David Baird Philip Morlier Paul Tuthill Iggy Blond Translation: Lauren Marley Printing: Gráficas Alhambra

Welcome to the first edition of Granada Insider. Who are we and what are we doing in Granada? Hmmm good question.

We are a new English language magazine, with a fully integrated website www.granadainsider.com where you can find out all the latest information on Granada as well as read a digital copy of the magazine.

The idea for an English language magazine was hatched when I first came to visit Granada, and I had trouble finding out what was going on. Heading out for an evening to explore the city with a few other like minded guiris I had recently met, we went in search of some local Granadina nightlife. We devised a cunning plan.

We should head towards the centre, after a good deal of head scratching we came to an international agreement, the Alhambra was up to steep a hill, therefore the cathedral must be the centre of the city, fiesta here we come. At midnight on a chilly Wednesday, let’s just say it was fairly quiet around the cathedral. Beautiful, but quiet; no lights, no noise and definitely no fiesta. We were left with the distinct feeling of being outsiders. Sometimes it can make a world of difference to have someone point you in the right direction.

Here at Granada Insider we want to share with you some of our favourite things about Granada, the lifestyle, the thousands of cosy bars, the cultural mix, the winding streets, and let’s not forget the delicious free tapas. Don’t be afraid to get in touch with us and tell us what has made Granada special for you. Log onto our website for full contact details or why not join our group on facebook at Granada Insider.

Take a couple of minutes to flick through our magazine and we hope that we might make your time here, that little bit more fulfilled.

Thanks for reading and make sure to get out there and enjoy the city.

As this is the first issue, not everything has made it to my desk in time for the hard copy deadline, so please make sure to check out our website, for the most up to date information.

Especially for live music and other events.

Mark

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WHAT’S INSIDE // p.4 Adventures of El Grupo with David Baird p.6 Cinema with a Difference Exclusive interview with Penélope Cristóbal p.8 Graffiti The city is your gallery p.10 Facebook Friend or Foe

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p.12 Aprils Fools Great minds think alike, but fools seldom differ p.14 Listings Cultural, Music and More p.16 Semana Santa An insiders preview, what to see, where to go p.18 America at Large with Insider’s Rogue Reporter

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Looking to earn some decent cash? p.20 Sport More than just football p.22 Nightclubs & Tapas p.23 Eng-Span Intercambio

Are you highly motivated, speak English and Spanish, and enjoy meeting new people? Why not join our sales team now.

p.24 Classifieds

Send your c.v. to granadainsider@gmail.com

p.26 Paddy’s Day p.28 Insider City Map

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EL GRUPO CONQUERS SOUTHERN SPAIN Adventures of a tourist guide with David Baird Spanish village streets are made for chariots and mules. Tour buses should keep out. That insight was reinforced when I came face to face with the Virgin in an Andalusian pueblo.

The problem was that I was sitting in a large bus, leading a band of trusting tourists. The bus was edging up a narrow street in historic Carmona, near Seville. So tight was the fit that we were scraping the whitewash off the walls. I was praying for things to get better - and then they got worse.

A policeman appeared before us, waving frantically.

“Stop! Stop! You can’t come this way! Go back!”

Behind him we could see the reason. To the solemn beat of drums, an Easter procession in all its pomp and splendour was approaching. A religious brotherhood was marching ahead of a massive, ornate float borne by about 40 volunteers.

Atop the float swayed an image of the Virgin, serene and unstoppable in her majesty. Only one thing blocked her progress - our bus. We couldn’t go forward, we couldn’t go back.

Amid daunting solemnity, faces concealed by their long pointed headgear, the religious brothers paced towards us. To “Vivas!” from the crowd, the Virgin, tears frozen to her plaster cheeks, approached steadily, relentlessly.

The policeman became apoplectic.

My passengers gaped in awe, speechless. Except one, who cried: “Holy Granada! Get a load of that bunch of hoods.”

Another day, another crisis, another lesson. Shepherding a group of Americans across Spain - my first and probably last experience as a tour guide - is a true education. You learn that, whatever the situation, you mustn’t panic. Or, more accurately, don’t let the troops see your panic. Once they lose confidence in you, you’re finished.

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I had been prepared for the usual problems. False teeth, for example.

Tourists lose them in surprising places . . . swimming pools, restrooms, discos, aircraft. And their owners expect the guides to find them.

Tour operators’ representatives had warned me to expect the worst.

Death was one hazard, they said.

Tourists have an unfortunate habit of passing away in foreign climes. And then the poor rep has the task of organising disposal of the body.

"Holy Granada!

Get a load of that bunch of hoods."

“My worst time was in Morocco,” confided one rep. “I ordered a coffin, but I confused the metric system with feet and inches. So, when the coffin arrived, it was 12 feet long and six feet wide.”

Fortunately, the Grim Reaper didn’t join my tour. But I had other difficulties, including the inexplicable mood changes of our driver Pedro. He never lost his cool, even when confronted by the Virgin Mary - he saved the situation that day by somehow slotting our vehicle down a side-street.

Yet though cheerful and obliging one moment, the next he could be morose and depressed. Matters came

to a head on a tortuous back road in the Alpujarras, south of Granada. Suddenly he told me: “I’ve been working too long without a break. If the police check my records, I could lose my licence.”

Then he began driving like Lewis Hamilton at Silverstone. When we careered into a village only to be blocked by yet another religious procession, he raged in frustration.

His moods, it turned out, were related to a mysterious little red car. All through the glorious spring scenery of Andalusia that car tracked us. Finally, the truth emerged. Monica, Pedro’s Italian girlfriend, was in the red car. It was frustration at being late for dates with Monica that caused his mood swings.

El Grupo - a compassionate bunch of Californians - agreed that she should join us in the bus. But then Carrie, a super-fit masseuse whom I’d secretly dubbed “Mrs Schwarzenegger”, threw a tantrum.

“I’m not travelling in the bus

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He never lost his cool, even when confronted by the Virgin Mary

with that woman,” she declared tearfully.

It was a case of jealousy. She couldn’t bear the sight of handsome Pedro with another female. To avoid female combat, Monica was returned to her car.

On the whole, however, my tourists - all photography buffs - were amenable and good-humoured. It was a mixed cast. Stan, an amiable octogenarian, had worked as an illustrator for Disney films (“What years? From Snow White to Pinocchio”). Cigar-puffing Sarah, with a hurricane hairdo, looked ready to parachute into a war zone. Actually she was a beautician.

Then there was Betty, on honeymoon with her new husband, and a little confused.

“Well, I didn’t think much of Seville,” she told me at one point.

“But,” I gently informed her.

“We haven’t got to Seville yet. This is only Wednesday.”

I was learning a thing or two about tour guiding. Very important, don’t over-dose your charges with information. Keep it simple.

“Tonight we shall be eating at 8 o’clock. Tomorrow morning we have to be away early so breakfast will be at 7am,” I informed El Grupo one evening.

Hardly had I finished speaking before a voice asked: “Okay, so dinner at 7, and what was that about breakfast?”

Top priority: maintain discipline. If you want to avoid anarchy, for-

get about consensus and all that nonsense. Once you start consulting your flock about what exactly they want to eat and where they want to go, you end up with chaos.

We sipped sherry in Jerez, consumed platefuls of delicious tapas everywhere, watched a bull-run in the medieval hilltop town of Arcos de la Frontera and witnessed “flamingo” (as the group termed it) in Granada.

In Carmona, we put up at an old palace converted into a luxury hotel, and clearly under the same management as Faulty Towers. Although tastefully decorated, the place was decidedly fragile. Trying to pull himself out of the swimming pool, one of the group grasped some pseudo-Roman statuery, which came off in his hand.

When I tried to flush my toilet, the handle disintegrated. Wrestling with the gilded wash-basin plug, I shattered a glass shelf. Trying to work the bidet, I was drenched when a jet of water hit the ceiling.

My go-go Californians’ energy and dedication to sightseeing and photography were disconcerting. Only towards the end of the tour did they relax and begin imbibing something stronger than mineral water.

But, oddly enough, what I had thought were disasters were highlights for them. Like being trapped by those guys in the hoods. Holy Granada!

That was something!

David Baird is a freelance journalist living in Andalusia. He is the author of a number of books based on life and adventures of a foreigner living in Spain.

For more information go to http://maromapress.wordpress.com

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INTERVIEW WITH PENéLOPE CRISTóbAL Emerging documentary producer.

Penélope Cristóbal is one of Spain’s most illustrious young film producers. She studied Audiovisual Communication in the University of Seville and specialised in the school of Cinema in Madrid. She began producing short films with Consulta 16 and Pulsiones.

With Nisaa she has undertaken to produce a series of documentaries about women in the world. Luchadoras the second instalment was nominated for an elite Goya (Spain’s top Cinema awards) in the category of Best Short Documentary. She is currently preparing for the next instalment to be set in Romania.

Luchadoras is an emotional study of the hardship and inequality faced by women in Mexico.

How has the experience of being nominated for a Goya been?

Luchadoras being nominated for a Goya was a surprise. We had more hope for a Goya nomination with the other short fiction that we did.

Previously we had been in quite a lot of festivals, which all went well, with Consulta 16 we thought it was a real possibility that it could have been nominated in 2008. This year Goya changed its format and started pre selection, so when we were selected we were really surprised especially considering the competition we were up against.

To be honest it has been a beautiful and tiring experience. Although on the other hand, now that you’ve been nominated you really want to win in the future.

You guys are working on a series of documentaries about women. Lately cinema and gender have been linked.

What does the idea of gender bring to cinema?

Well, I like to talk about equality. We do these projects about women in an attempt to support the equality of women in film. It started with a collec-

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tion of women in Granada when we made Consulta 16, which was our first short film; the technical crew was made up of mostly women. From there we made Nisaa which was about women. While shooting in Morocco it occurred to us to make a series about women in the world and support the technicians that always help us make short films. We do keep equality in mind and have a male on our team too (in this case the director).

What does cinema contribute to equality?

Cinema contributes the same as any other art form: the ability to reach an extensive audience. Messages of solidarity, understanding and knowledge can be expressed though art; photography, theatre and music are equally successful in getting these messages across. Cinema is probably the most successful at reaching young audiences.

Despite being a more difficult situation, Luchadoras has a more positive message than Nisaa.

Yes, I think in both we tried to be open and not share only the bad things that happen to women. But rather show

how they handle difficult situations and forge ahead. In all of the documentaries we interview women that succeeded in life and women who have problems. Maybe some messages are more positive than others, but they all end with a view of new generations appearing and the hope that things will improve with time. Perhaps in Mexico we ran into women who had more active messages about how to change things, while in Morocco the women thought that things would change- little by little.

People talk a lot about the Boys from Malviviendo, a low budget self made series that can only be seen on the internet. Do you think this new model could be successful?

I consider it a new road. I barely watch television. I watch things that I find on the internet that are more interesting for me, especially because I can choose them. So I think that internet and all these shows, like the ones made using mobiles are more of a new outlet, or new field that has yet to be explored and that has a lot of potential.

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But can they be considered a product themselves or more a route to the big screen?

Call me romantic but cinemas still exist and people are still interested in going to see a movie on the big screen, in the dark, and getting out of the house. But I also think that new channels like internet, mobile phones, and digital television will create new options in cinema and audiovisual.

The other day I saw El Ultimo Truco, a documentary about the life of Emilio Ruiz del Rio who made handmade models for large productions. What is left of that kind of cinema?

Well there isn’t much left of that kind of cinema because of the digital advances everything is done very quickly. There isn’t much left of manual art, models and all of that.

Now a new branch of digital animation is emerging that is done by hand, with models and cutouts. That is the magic of digital as well as analogical cinema, that everything is a lie, everything is real and everything is imaginary. Sets can be made out of cardboard or with masks.

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Emilio Ruiz del Rio said in this documentary that it isn’t necessary to reveal the tricks, that it isn’t necessary to show the making of. What do you think about exposing the magic and the tricks?

I see everything from behind the scenes, so I like that people see it because I think it’s a parallel world and it’s also a lot of fun.

Obviously when I’m at the cinema I want to believe everything. Even though I work in the film industry and I know how everything works behind the scenes I try to get involved in the film and let them trick me. I try to see it how they want me to see it, believing everything that they tell me.

On the other hand, I think the making of is nice to see because even though you see the tricks you also see the team work, the delivery, and the cooperation of many people working together on something.

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The work done behind the scenes is complex and it should be appreciated.

All of the documentaries produced by Cristóbal can be viewed for free over the internet, including on YouTube. For her latest documentary Luchadoras with English subtitles check out http://vimeo.com/7569573

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It is hard to miss the graffiti around Granada, we decided to take an afternoon out around the city and see if we could find some of the best on offer, beats an afternoon in a stuffy office. A stroll around the centre, up the Albaycin and across to Realejo left us in no doubt that there are a plethora of talented artists practising locally. We particularly like the creative use of decorating shop fronts and the many diverse characters peering back at us from hidden alleyways. Looking for something a little extra special, check out around the top of Calle Molinas, of the realejo, where the artist working under the name El Nino de las Pinturas has made the area his own, well worth the hike up the hill.

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Tags, love them or loathe them, there are plenty on display. We think that it is fair to say there are two types of graffiti, that which adds to the city and that which takes away. As a cultural contemporary expression of art, and the vibrancy of youth in the city, there is no greater voice here in Granada. Mindless tagging and nonsensical vandalism really don’t quite capture that same effect.

Be warned, new legislation as of last December has made Graffiti in Granada a punishable sin, with fines up to €3,000 being handed down.

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OH FACEBOOK, WHAT ART THOU? Paul Tuthill is ‌ updating on the web’s biggest social network

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"Are you on Facebook?" ,

What psychologists make of this list is anyone's guess?

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as riling a question to its non converts as asking an unemployed person what it is they do for a living. As phenomenons go, Facebook is still, for the most part, seen as a cool, zeitgeist defining service.

Founded in 2004 by a quartet of Ivy League geeks, chief among them, current CEO, Mark Zuckerberg, Facebook, seemingly overnight, went from being just a "Harvard-thing" to the networking site of choice for every college kid in America and beyond.

With the 2006 addition of the news feed function and the opening up of the site to everyone, this IT Icarus is soaring. Now in its 6th year, were Facebook a country, its inhabitants would make it the third largest country on earth. Considering that the global online population is only 1.5 billion, this site is now a monster.

So what's the appeal? Many Facebookers claim, that the appeal lies in its ability to connect you with old friends. For me, the secret to its success is its appeal to our Narcissistic selves. All 515 of my friends are clearly motivated by self-promotion and an innate desire for gossip and news. An important aside is that, unlike any other site around, users can casually stalk any of their so called "friends" - check out what their

ex, and optimistically their future conquest is up to, who they've just befriended, what their favourite colour is that day, other unnecessary details ad nauseam.

One definitely fun facet of Facebook's, is the ability for anyone to become a fan of, eh... anything! Be it light bulbs or anarchism, any member of the FB fraternity can set up his or her own group, paying homage from Rocky Balboa to Rupert the Bear or whatever suits your taste. Some are personal, along the lines of "I hate my Dad," and only of relevance to that particular person's friends.

One of the biggest fan groups on Facebook is that of Barack Obama.

At almost 8 million fans, his page is top of the pile. He is closely followed by fellow actors, Vin Diesel, at 7.6 million, and Will Smith, at 4.9 million. Pizza yes pizza, has as many fans as the former Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. Other notables, in the varied Top 20, include: I Love Sleep; I Need A Vacation; Pringles; and I Hate Stupid People. What psychologists make of this list is anyone's guess?

Zuckerberg recently went from being viewed as the doyen of web cool to apathetic ogre in one cynical act of corporate malevolence. The controversy stemmed from a recent change in

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An epic tale that captures the drama of boozy status updates.

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Facebook's Terms of Service (TOS), whose small print states: "... if you choose to remove your user content... the company may retain archived copies of your user content." This applies even if you terminate your FB account. In effect, anything you put up on FB is free game to be used as FB wish.

Latest to jump on the Facebook bandwagon are Columbia Pictures, who recently decided to "add" The Social Network to its production array. The Social Network is the much hyped big screen adaptation of Ben Mezrich’s book, The Accidental Billionaires: The Founding of Facebook, a Tale of Sex, Money, Genius and Betrayal. According to Variety, the film will track the website’s meteoric rise from Mark Zuckerberg’s college experiment to booming social network. The moment Facebook supplanted MySpace as the de facto online time-wasting machine, the film studios have been scouring for ways to profit off of it. To this end, they paid Aaron Sorkin to write The Social Net-

work, aka "Facebook - The Movie."

Time will tell how the movie is judged, but hopes are high for an epic tale that captures the drama of boozy status updates, the potency of the poke, and, of course, the climactic "delete friend" end game.

Without sight or sound of a trailer, I'll unabashedly throw my hat in the ring, and predict that this film will put bums on seats. However, not unlike an evening on Facebook, I suspect the experience will leave you feeling your time might have been better spent elsewhere. Either way, for the converted, "FB" will remain manna from heaven.

Already on Facebook, why not join the group Granada Insider for all the latest news, gossip and photos.

Writers wanted:

Feature articles, interviews, reviews, get your work published here. Send a sample of your work to

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AN INSIDER’S LOOk AT OUR fAVOURITE DAy Of APRIL The first of April, the day of the prankster, the day where even the most straight laced of individuals can give their mischievous side an opportunity to surface. It is of course recognised internationally as April fools day. No more so than here in Granada, so take with a pinch of salt a local’s advice on a day like today, and have no fear to play a trick or two on them.

A look back at some of the Classics from the past: The Swiss Spaghetti Harvest - 1957

The Left Handed Whopper - 1998

This one comes from the well respected British institution the BBC and their news show Panorama. They announced that due to favourable winter conditions, Swiss farmers were enjoying a bumper spaghetti crop. Huge numbers called in looking for information on how to grow their own. Their response “place a sprig of spaghetti in a tin of tomato sauce and hope for the best”

Perhaps a great marketing ploy, Burger king announced that they wanted to cater for the 32 million left handers in the U.S. They had devised an ingenious plan for their traditional whopper burger. The ingredients would be the same but had rotated all condiments by 180 degrees for the left handed diner.

They revealed it was a hoax when; not only did thousands come to their stores ordering the new whopper, but many also began insisting on the traditional right hander.

G-Pilot - 2009

Drunk Driving On the Internet - 1994 For some of us out there, this might be a good ban and save many Monday morning blushes. But in 1994, in an article in PC Computing prankster John Dovorak described a new bill going through U.S. congress. He stated “the moniker ‘Information Highway’ itself seems to be responsible.... I know how silly this sounds, but congress apparently thinks that being drunk on a highway is bad no matter what kind of highway it is.’

A favourite from last year’s rounds of pranks. Google used the perfect day to unveil their all new Gmail autopilot. This would automatically read and respond to your personal emails saving you the hassle. They claimed their new feature was so advanced that it would work even if both sender and receiver had autopilot switched on. But they would claim no responsibility for committing you to dinner parties or social engagements in which you have no interest.

Check out Granada Insider on Facebook to read of other amusing April fools pranks and why not tell us about a few of your own.

Some easy April fools to play on your friends or family.

Message Minder Coordinate a few people to play this prank, Take turns to call up the target and persistently ask for Juan. At the end of the day have someone call up and say “this is Juan, do you have any messages for me today” Can be surprisingly effective when using jocular Spanish accent.

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VOX POP First impression of the city: To be honest, my first feeling was to be in shock. Everything seemed so different than what I was used to. I felt for the first time of my trip that I really was in another country, many miles from my own. The small streets, the almost Indian ambiance, the mix of religions and architectures. Everything scared me the first morning.

Then I walked in the streets, took time to feel the place. I went on a tapas tour at night.

I have met people from all around the world, from Australia, from Germany, Ireland, even one from my own city, Montréal!

So you quite like the city: At night, I was under the charm of Granada.

I discovered the Alhambra, the Albaycín, all the time surrounded by real travellers, there definitely is a certain romance to the city.

One thing is for sure I will always keep a lot of unforgettable memories of Granada and the people I met here.

Brigitte Hébert-Carle.

Montréal. Canada

What are you doing in Granada: I am travelling with a friend around Spain for a month. After two weeks of beautiful discoveries, we have arrived in Granada.

SHORT TERM APARTMENT RENTAL Acera del Darro, opp Hotel Dauro.

Sleeps up to 5 people Quiet, comfortable and convenient!

Fr. €40 per night, depending on season.

Monthly rates available.

Weekend country retreat too!

Call Maria on 958 788268/651 041666 aranlecrin@yahoo.es ISSUE 01

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EVENTS: // Flamenco

Parque de Ciencias Temporary exhibitions

Teatro Alhambra

12th April 21:00 “DoS PoR MEDIo Y CIA” <<SoNATA>> Rafael Estevez and Nani Panos €14 19th April 21:00 <<RECITAL>> Calixto Sanchez and Jose Valencia €14 26th April 21:00 JUAN JoSE JAEN “EL JUNCo” €14

Theatre Pick of the month 15th and 16th 21:00 THE DEER HoUSE ( Jan Lauwers / NeedCompany) A Spectacular mix of theatre, dance and music based around a number of stories dealing with themes including vengance, mercy, life and death. The show is in various languages and subtitled in Spanish. €13

‘150 AÑOS DE ECOLOGÍA EN ESPAÑA. CIENCIA PARA UNA TIERRA fRÁGIL’ “150 years of Ecology in spain. Science for a fragile land” Organised by: Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales y Fundación Banco Santander ‘ANIMALES DE MUSEO. EL ARTE DE LA TAXIDERMIA’ “Animals of the museum. The art of Taxidermy” Produced by: Parque de las Ciencias ‘LOS NUEVOS ESCLAVOS CIbERNéTICOS’ “The new cybernectic slaves” From 9th of april until 9th of May Organised by: Dpto. de Ingeniería de Sistemas y Automática de la UMA. ‘SÍMbOLOS DE SIERRA NEVADA’ “Symbols of the Sierra Nevada” Until the 4th of April ‘ARTE fóSIL’ “Fossil Art” Parque de las Ciencias. Avd. de la Ciencia s/n 18006 Granada. Telf.: 958 131 900. Fax: 958 133 582

Planetario Péndulo de Foucault (Max 83 people) Programs of the Planatarium HISTORIAS DE LA LUNA: History of the Moon Tuesday to Sunday – Various Showings during the day.

Dance 23rd and 24th 21:00 INFAME o el placer de lo efímero (Excentrica Producciones y centro de artes escenicas de Sevilla) For more information: Teatro Alhambra Información y Atención al Público Molinos 56. 18009 Granada.

Teléfono: 958 028 000 www.teatroalhambra.com

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‘LA EVOLUCIóN DE DARWIN’ “The evolution of Darwin”

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LAS ESTACIONES DEL AÑO Seasons of the Year Sábados 10.30 h./15.30 h./16.30 h.

Sundays and Festivals 10.30 h EL UNIVERSO DE LORCA Lorca’s Universe Tuesday to Saturday 19.30 h For More Information: Parque de las Ciencias. Avd. de la Ciencia s/n 18006 Granada. Telf.: 958 131 900. www.parqueciencias.com

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CH ECK G RA N A D A IN SID ER.CO M FO R A M O RE IN FO RM ATIO N O N SCREEN IN G S,VEN U ES A N D TIM ES.

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Courtesy of Patronato Municipal de Turismo de Granada

SEMANA SANTA IN GRANADA A little bit of history Semana Santa is probably; after Christmas, the most widely celebrated of Spain’s many festivals. Feted with a special intensity in Andalusia, the holy week is a mix of religion, tradition, culture and of course enjoyment. It is the perfect opportunity to hit the streets and get to know a different side of Granada, where Catholics, other faithfuls and pagans, be they locals or visitors all join in a city wide celebration.

Semana Santa was born during the Catholic Inquisition of 1492.

Following eight centuries of Muslim dynasty in Andalusian lands, (Granada being the last Muslim stronghold in the Iberian Peninsula), the Catholic Church sought to reignite Christian culture and tradition and a celebration of the Holy Week was there way of achieving this.

What is Semana Santa?

Semana Santa is what many of us would consider Easter, but with less chocolate eggs and a lot more action in the streets.

It starts with Viernes de Dolores (the Friday of hurt) and finishes with Resurrection Sunday. Within these 10 days the streets of Andalusia are taken over by representations of the imprisonment, the crucifixion, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ. This year you can catch all the action beginning Friday 26th and climaxing with the resurrection on Sunday 4th of April.

Semana Santa is all about the “procesiones”, a type of street parade. In the city of Granada alone you can witness 32 separate procesiones. Each one is undertaken by a different fraternity or brotherhood. They plan their route from their base or headquarters (usually a church) parade to the city centre and return to base. Many long hours over the preceding 6 months are spent perfecting the procession that will last just a couple of hours, a journey of religion reverence as well as entertainment.

The primary element of the parade is the “paso” (float), made of a

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giant platform upon which is carried a figure or statue that represents the Virgin Mary or Jesus in various situations.

The representations, are works of art of baroque realism, that often have a priceless artistic and cultural value, the majority of which are centuries old and were originally created by some of the finest and most prestigious artists of the time.

The floats are manoeuvred by “cuadrillas de costaleros” or squads of bearers/carriers; these squads can be made of men or sometimes squads of women, each one comprising of 20 to 30 people. Each costalero supports some 30 to 40 kilos either on their shoulders or the nape of their neck. It is a truly impressive effort when we take into account, that the processions are winding their way through the tight and narrow streets around the centre of Granada, and the old neighbourhoods of the Albaycín, Realejo, Sacromonte and to the Alhambra itself. The foremen or captains direct the fraternities through the various stages, including the tricky parts of ascending hills, and navigating the narrow streets. The departures from some of the smaller churches and temples can often be an impressive exercise in strength and coordination with the low hanging doorways requiring the

costaleros to lift the float and inch it forward on their knees.

Following the float, there are the penitents, and the musicians. The penitents are the people that open the procession with their faces covered wearing a type of cucurucho (hood or pointed hat) carrying candles. They offer anonymous penitence to clean their sins.

The Candles and the smell of incense are features that create the very particular and unforgettable ambience of Semana Santa in Andalusia.

Finally, the music is always present with the processions. The processions will stop at certain points while special devotional songs are sung. These “saetas” are orations sung on a key similar to traditional flamenco. These will be accompanied by soulful percussion and wind instruments.

What to do During Semana Santa To enjoy the most of what Semana Santa has to offer here in Granada, our first recommendation would be to go out and hit the streets any evening or night of the week. If one cannot find Semana Santa, it is inevitable that Semana Santa will find you. All of the procesiones have an official route marked out, and will all pass at one stage or another

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through the Plaza del Carmen (town hall) as well as the cathedral nearby. You will see that it is common for the local granadinos to wait many hours in this area and watch the processions between their coffees and cervezas.

What anyone must be clear about during Semana Santa is that, while it is very much a time of fun and festivities, there does exist a religious component, and it does no harm to show a little respect to the beliefs celebrated.

Highlights of the Week There are two procesiones we advise not to miss, that have a special beauty and inspiration. Holy Wednesday, known as Cristo de los Gitanos (Christ of the gypsies) which departs from Sagrado Corazon de Jesus (on Gran Via de Colon) and loops around towards Sacromonte until they reach the abbey; where Christ is reunited with the Virgin Mary. During the journey, the resident gypsies of the neighbourhood will light bonfires that illuminate the night and will sing and dance to JC and the Virgin. A key moment is the point at which the floats carrying both Jesus and Mary dance together at the entrance of the Abbey before entering and disappearing from view. Definitely a night and an atmosphere not too quickly forgotten.

The following day, Holy Thursday, the greater part of the processions moves to the Albaycín. With the highlight being the “Hermanidad del Silencio”, whose tradition impose an absolute silence and to be guided only be candle light. This silent procession leaves at midnight and results in the revered silence and the switching off all lights along its route. Uniquely there will be a lone drummer accompanying the otherwise complete silence.

Courtesy of Patronato Municipal de Turismo de Granada

Courtesy of Patronato Municipal de Turismo de Granada

row, winding streets, steep hills and cobblestoned alleyways. Getting around in these streets with large crowds requires a couple of precautions.

An absolute necessity is the wearing of comfortable clothes and more importantly comfortable footwear.

High heels and miniskirts, (while looking great) are not friends with the big crowds of people, lengthy walks and hours of standing. A light jacket of some description is also advised, temperatures can drop dramatically once the sun goes down.

It is never any fun getting lost.

If you are not too sure of your way around the city, make sure to bring a small map, some of the streets, particularly in the Albaycín and the Realejo are especially confusing and spending a night walking in circles on your own is not an advisable plan.

Keep an eye out for pickpockets. In some neighbourhoods, and above all, in dense crowds of people, there is sometimes petty crime and loss of belongings. We are very fortunate that Granada is usually such a safe city, but just a simple word of warning, when in big groups in a crowded area, keep an eye on your handbag, rucksack or camera and you will have nothing to worry about.

Finally it is a marathon not a sprint. While we all want to enjoy the week of festivities, don’t burn out on the very first night, if you are looking for fiestas, Granada is the place to be this Semana Santa.

- But most importantly, enjoy.

A Few Words of Warning

For more information, you can enter the official tourist office website at www.turgranada.es there you can download a guide of Semana Santa throughout the province.

The procesións move through the central barrios, and as many of you I am sure are aware, the centre of Granada is somewhat of a labyrinth of many nar-

You can also find more useful information from the home page of the town hall of Granada at www.granada.org.

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AMERICA AT LARGE Rogue Reporter Philip Morlier, making a Palin Comparison

It was cold in Boston on the night of December 6th 1773. Boston was just a town, and Massachusetts just a British colony, but not for too much longer.

Dozens of men, some dressed as Mohawk Indians, boarded three of the ships anchored in the harbor and dumped a few hundred chests of tea into the water.

The cause of the rampage was a recent Tea Act passed by the British Parliament which levied a tax on imported tea. The incident would become known as "The Boston Tea Party" and would come to symbolize the credo:"no taxation without representation", one of the major tenants of the government which would be formed. In terms of an early American Revolutionary Icon, The Boston Tea Party is as famous as George Washington's wooden teeth. The kind of thing school children learn about from age five or so, and that we as Americans, learn to associate with everything that is patriotic about the days when we invented freedom and apple pie.

Flash forward a couple of hundred years and here we are: Colonists gone! No more wooden teeth.

It Is still cold in Boston in December and we still pay taxes, and what more we still have Tea Parties.

The Tea Party Movement is a term used to describe an ambiguous

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cluster of political groups who burst onto the national scene following a series of protests over 2009 government policy. The initial protests garnered significant attention and support by conservative talk radio and by Fox News who broadcast event details on blogs and other media. The name "Tea Party" appears to have come from an on air rant by CNBC commentator Rick Santelli over what he considered to be federal mismanagement.

The name stuck and has galvanized a part of the American population that, until very recently, weren't

seen as a radical force, and who also until very recently probably weren't the demographic to associate dissent with patriotism. Although ostensibly "independent", the movement centers around the type of "fiscally conservative" rhetoric associated with the right wing of American politics and as such has come to include, other staples of conservative America, such as a priority on national defense, gun rights, etc. At this point its safe to say the brand name Tea Party of yesteryear has been usurped.

Earlier this year, one of the various Tea Party subgroups known as "Tea Party Nation Corporation", a type of conservative social networking internet site, held an event in Tennessee. The $600 a ticket event featured former vice presidential candidate and media darling Sarah Palin as the keynote speaker.

Taking time out from helicopter hunting and being Alaska’s favourite hockey mom she stopped by to collect the $100,000 speaker’s fee.

Taking time out from helicopter hunting and being Alaska’s favourite hockey mom

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All the tea leaves in the world cannot achieve miracles

It has to be admitted she was warmly recieved by her audience and gave a speech covering her own inspiring views for the future. First up, the priority of national defense, she wouldnt want anyone to get the idea that all this “less taxes” talk could jeopordize defense spending, which for this year is a record $663.8 billion. Then on to bashing the current administration for its blunders, a few self congratulatory remarks about her time as governer of Alaska and of course a bit about how the Tea Party folks were a shining example of the grass roots democracy that is going to save America.

Which for her fans is exactly what they wanted to hear. There wasn’t anything new covered, certainly not the rousing “revolutionary” approach that the Tea Party folk claim to demand.

But that’s just it, at the onset, the 21st century Tea Party, may have aimed to be a populist movement; at this point they are merely becoming the pet of the Republican party. When you see names like Palin or Newt Gingrich on

the Tea Party bill; it means that the “Taxed Enough Already” dialogue has been absorbed into the established conservative doublethink program: less tax on corporations means less tax on individuals.

The central motif of The Tea Party is clearly the necessity of lowering taxes. I am no economist, but; when you have an enormous national debt, two very expensive wars, an economy that is based on private banks who are deemed too big to fail, and an undereducated population with poor access to very expensive health care, all the tea leaves in the world cannot achieve miracles.

I would prefer to imagine, like the most successful of any youngster’s tea parties, it is not the substance that counts, but the ability and creativity to believe in what isn’t there and convincing people that it really is.

Philip Morlier is a freelance journalist originally from Louisiana.

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INSIDER SPORT

RUGBY CDU GRANADA HOPING TO RETURN TO THE NATIONAL LEAGUE Rugby is not a very popular sport in Spain. Television waves, economic resources and sports facilities are dominated by one thing; the round ball played with the feet, Football. However professional rugby is slowly developing here in Spain. Despite the fact there aren’t many sports facilities available to play Rugby, there aren’t very many fans and Rugby clubs have a hard time finding athletes who want to stray from the crowd and play this not so popular sport. Gradually the sport is becoming more of a force to be reckoned with.

In Granada there are five rugby clubs, two male, one female and

two veterans. The University of Granada Rugby (CDU) is the top male team here in Granada. CDU has its own rugby field called Fuentenueva (located within the university campus) which has become a historic field where rugby fans and players from Granada have watched and played in many entertaining games.

The fortunes of CDU have changed a lot since they were a part of the national first division. The teams standing rose and fell until last year when the team started playing in the inferior category of Andalucian rugby.

This year’s regular season of the First Andalucian Regional could not

For more information on rugby in Granada and upcoming fixtures including the play off games, check out http://www.ugr.es/~cdurugby/

Surfing the web

Sports stadium trivia:

Here is our pick from one of Arsenal’s top young guns Andrey Arshavin’s official homepage, where he answers the fans questions. Who says that Russian footballers don’t have a sense of humour?

‘Hi, Andrey, I love arsenal and helicopters. My friend, Steve, said that he met you once and he said you were very nice but you smelt of coffee. Do you like coffee? He also said that he held your hand.

If I met you please could I hold your hand, I promise it will be no longer than for 3 minutes.’ LOVE FROM ANTHONY, 28 ENGLAND. _rshavin: I don’t drink coffee at all.

Taken from http://www.arshavin.eu/en/

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Name the city, the sport and the team that plays in each of the following seven.

1. The Gabba 2. Wrigley field 3. El Sardinero 4. The Superdome 5. La bombonera 6. Thomond Park 7. Prestbury Park (no specific team required for this one) Answers can be found in the classified section at the back of the magazine

have been better for CDU. With two games left to play, they are already league champions, leading 2nd place team Marbella R.C. by 8 points. The team is getting ready to compete in the play offs that will hopefully take them back to the National league, albeit the third division.

These games that could take CDU up a level will take place during the end of April and throughout the month of May. The play-offs are decided over home and away fixtures. Granada will compete against 3 other teams from Majahonda-Madrid, Caceres and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

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TA KIN G PO LO TO N EW H EIG H TS The Santa Maria Polo Club, organiser of large sporting events, took on a new challenge: Snow Polo. Polo was played in the snow at the Jaeger-Le Coultre Snow Polo Cup 2010. The event took place the 13th and 14th of March at the Sierra Nevada ski resort in Granada. The stars at this event were four teams whose handicaps were between 10 and 12 goals. The games took place at Los Peñones parking lot which was transformed into a snow polo field.

Snow polo is played on a field of compact snow 100-150m in length and 80-100m in width. The field is surrounded by a fence to keep the ball within play, similar to ice hockey. The object of the game, like in regular polo, is to score goals in the opponent’s goal. Teams consist of 3-4 players. The bocha (ball) for snow polo is a bit bigger than the

bocha used in traditional polo, it is less rigid and it’s bright orange colour allows it to be easily seen in the snow.

While snow polo takes place in a different environment than regular polo the speed and appearance of the game is the same.

At first this game was used to train professional players like Adolfo Cambiaso, Pablo Mac Donough, and Piki Diaz Alberdi but every year this sport gets more and more popular among athletes and spectators alike and makes for incredible viewing of athletic ability, sheer bravery and great horsemanship.

April’s Sporting dates for your Diary Football: Sat 3rd Man Utd. V Chelsea 6th/7th Champions League Quarter Finals 2nd leg Sat 10th El Super Clásico: Barcelona v Real Madrid F.A. Cup Semi Final – Villa v Chelsea Sun 11th Blackburn v Man Utd F.A. Cup – Fulham/Spurs v Portsmouth Sat 17th Man City v Man Utd. Spurs v Chelsea 20th/21st Champions League Semi Finals 1st leg Sat 24th Arsenal v Man City Sun 25th Man Utd. V Spurs Chelsea v Stoke City 27th/28th Champions League Semi Finals 2nd leg Rugby: Heineken Cup Quarter finals: 9th Leinster v Clermont Auvergne 10th Biarritz v Ospreys 10th Munster v Northampton 11th Toulouse v Stade Francaise

Other: Golf: The US Masters 8th – 11th: The Return of Tiger formula 1: 4th – Maylasia GP, 18th –China GP

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NIGHTCLUBS IN GRANADA:

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An Insider’s guide Afrodisia – reggae funky soul, this place is kicking from midnight till about 3:30, from were the crowd will usually move in a big group down the street to Boogah. Entrance will be free or €4 with drink included. Very reasonably priced and good place to shake that booty.

Boogah – this place doesn’t get going until the other bars close, arriving before 4am may give you the impression that not many people like this place, but once it gets going, it gets going. With large dance floor, and two bars, this is definitely one of Granada best nightclubs in the centre of the city. Closes around 7.

Cover charges vary depending on the night usually from €4 - €7. Beer €3 Mixed drinks €6.

Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcon - Our pick would be Playmobil, grungy decor, loud music cheap beer, great local atmosphere. Once out around Pedro Antonio there are numerous bars and nightclubs to choose from.

Vogue – locally pronounced Bohgay (can cause confusion with Boogah, but very different in style), this place attracts a great mix of students both local and international during the week. Friday and Saturdays tend to be a younger crowd and they like to fill it. Not for the claustrophobic.

Granada Diez – This renovated cinema has undoubtedly the best location in Granada, between Gran Via and Calle Elvira, it is hard to miss. But you will pay for the location and the settings. A very vibrant student crowd during the week, many promotions available, particularly aimed at Erasmus. Wednesday free drink between certain hours. Weekends also attract an energetic student crowd (high school students that is).

Mae West – Catering for a slightly older crowd. So big a venue it is quite easy to get lost. Located in the Neptuno shopping centre, this place is a little off the beaten track for the tourists passing through, but really is like an adult’s playground, various levels and rooms catering for all tastes.

Something a little heavier:

TAPAS Where to go for some of Granada’s Finest: Bar Poë – C/ Verónica de Magdalena 40, near to Plaza Trinidad. Truly some of the best Tapas in Granada, open from 8pm.

Totes y Amigos – C/ Ribera del Genil, 2, on the banks of the river. With an outdoor terrace and views of the Sierra Nevada, on a sunny afternoon this place can’t be beaten. Open from 1pm.

Plaza Campo de Principe – This quaint little square is a little off the beaten track, but with 3 or 4 bars beside each other, this is a good place to discover authentic Andalusia.

Casa Lopez Correa – A great spot to pop in for a glass of wine and a snack or if a little more peckish, lunch and dinner menus available.

Giardinos – Plaza Romanilla, this place has a great outdoor terrace, located right in the heart of the city. Ideal to take a break from a busy day touring the city.

Sala el Tren – Drum and Base, techno.

This place prides itself on being dark, a little out of the city centre, but if this is your scene it is well worth the taxi fare to take you there.

Kopera Industrial – This place hosts some top Spanish and international DJ’s check the web for upcoming events.

Where to watch Sport Looking to watch a game, come the game, and come the hour, whatever the contest, whatever the country. Talk to Paddy and he will be sure to accommodate.

Paddys Bar, C/ Santa Escolastica 15

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Our FAvOurITE SPAnISH FALSE AMIGOS

Spanish can be a funny language when: The sopa isn’t soap, The ropa isn’t rope, And the butter’s meant to kill ya??

While many of us, when struggling to find the right Spanish word, will throw an a or an o at the end of the English word we are looking to translate and hope for the best. On many an occasion this can work a charm and helps to show off our profound grasp of the language, in some instances however this tactic may lead to some cultural misunderstanding.

Bizarro, bizarrely enough this refers to somebody who is brave and not someone we think a little strange.

Carpeta, this has nothing to do with a carpet as we know it. Carpeta meaning folder or even briefcase, when referring to the carpet or rug, better off trying alfombra.

Contestar, commonly heard, does not mean that they are contesting everything all the time, but rather answering.

For contest better to use contender.

Decepción, actually means disappointment. Something deceptive, engañoso.

Delito, quite the opposite to delight and nothing to do with delete. In fact means crime (usually minor) delight is more likely to be deleite or encanto.

While delete is borrar.

Spanish Trivia

Embarazada, another of our favourites, while it might be embarrassing to be pregnant, someone embarrassed (and not pregnant) tiene vergüenza.

En absoluto, oddly this one means quite the opposite and in fact means not at all or absolutely not. Absolutly is better translated as completamente.

Molestar, this one is not the sexual crime as we know it, but simply to bother or annoy, do not call the police when you hear that your Spanish friend was molested in the bar last night.

Excitado, warning this is usually interpreted with sexually overtones, excited because it is nice day probably safer to go with emocianado.

While avocado may sound like a word of Spanish origin, if ordered you may have a lawyer arrive at your dining table (abogado) And of course the classic – we are quite sure it has provided many an amusing moment around the pharmacies of Granada. Constiparse, constipación – meaning of course to catch a cold or have a cold. Someone constipated would be better off describing their predicament as estreñido.

ISSUE 01

1. Who is the saint best associated with the city of Pamplona?

2. Where would you find the Guggeneheim museum?

3. Which Spanish city is famed for its giant roman aquaducts?

4. What is the highest mountain in Spain, standing at 3,718m above sea level?

5. The original name of the Alhambra was ‘Qal'at al-Hambra’ but what does it mean in English?

6. Tapas – we all love them, especially when free, but where does the word come from? A) Spanish for top of your beer, B) originally what Spaniards called ham on bread, C) comes from the word Spanish word for beer tap?

7. The name Flamenco – A) Originated from andalusian gypsy music, B) was imported by Belgians who speak the dutch dialect of Flemish, C) Was a term first coined by the Spanish king who mispronounced the bright pink bird Flamingo?

Answers can be found in the back of the magazine in the Classifieds section.

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CLASSIFIEDS Useful Information

Airport

Swimming pool

Tourist Office:

Aeropuerto De Granada Aeropuertos Españoles Y Navegacion Aerea Aena Ctra. Málaga, S/N 18330 Chauchina (Granada)

Campus universitario de fuentenueva, Avenida Severo Ochoa S/N (paseo universitario)

Plaza de Mariana Pineda, 10 bajo, tel. 958247146, www.turismodegranada.org Alhambra www.alhambra-patronato.es The tickets can be purchased at the automatic machine of “La Caixa” bank, or online at www.alhambra-tickets.es or by telephone : 902 888 001.

They can also be bought directly at the Alhambra, but the availability is not ensured Price : General ticket, €12 opening times : March 16th through october 15th: Day visits, Monday through Sunday, 8:30 am to 8:00 pm Evening visits, Friday and Saturday, 10:00 pm to 11:30 pm Bus station Estacion De Autobuses Estaciones De Autobuses Ctra. Jaén, S/N 18014 Granada For more information go to www.alsa.es Train Estacion De Granada Estacion De Trenes Av. Andaluces, S/N 18014 Granada For more information go to www.renfe.es

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National Police: 091 Emergency: 112 Firemen: 080 (Granada metropolitan area) Police office: Comisaría de Policía de Granada - Centro Address : Calle Campos 3, 18009, Granada (Granada) Tel : 958 808 502 Hospitals: Delegación Provincial de Salud Avda. del Sur nº13 18014 Granada Tel. 958 027 000 Complejo Hospitalario Virgen de las Nieves (incluyes hospitales Ruiz de Alda, Trauma, Mother-Child care, and San Juan de Dios) Avda. Fuerzas Armadas nº 2 18014 Granada Tel. 958 020 000 Hospital Universitario San Cecilio (Also known as "el Clínico") Avda. Dr. Olóriz nº 16 18012 Granada Tlf. 958 023 000

Monday through Friday 8am 10pm, last entrance 9pm Saturday 9am - 6:30 pm, last entrance 5:30 pm Sundays and bank holidays, closed Christmas & Semana Santa, 9:30 am - 6:30 pm Prices : €3 for students €4 for non students Tennis courts Campus Universitario Fuentenueva, Avenida Severo Ochoa, S/N (paseo universitario) Tennis Courts, reservation by the hour in the sports office, Tel: 958 240 956 – 243 144 Opening hours : 9am – 2pm 3pm – 8pm, except holidays Price :

€4,50 for students €5 for non students

All other sports http://www.ugr.es/~sdugr/

LGBT Ambient XXL c/ Montalban, 13 18002

Health and Fitness Universal Pilates Granada (Pilates, Tai Chi..)

Camino de Ronda, 71, bajo (entrada plaza Cibeles) Tel. 958 521 746

Fondo Reservado (Soul, garage, house…)

Cuesta Santa Ines 13 18010

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CLASSIFIEDS Perfil (House, Bossa Nova, dance, techno, house tropic) c/ Rosario 10 18009

y empleo (IMFE) www.imfegranada.es c/ divina pastora 7, 9 18009 Granada Tel : 958 805 036/7

Six Colours (Dance, House) c/ Tendillas de Santa Paula 6 18001

Servicio Andaluz de Empleo Center : c/ de santa barbara, 18 18001 Tel : 958 575 280

Tic Tac (Fiestas los viernes) c/ Horno de Haza 19 18002

Books In English: Metro Bookshop, C/ Gracia 31, tel 958 26 15 65

Flamenco Sala Albaicín, Ctra. Murcia s/n.

Mirador San Cristóbal, tel 958 804 646 www.flamencoalbayzin.com Shows at 10 pm Cueva La Rocío, Camino del Sacromonte 70, tel 958 227 129 / 659 115 187 Shows at 10pm – 11pm.

Flamenco classes Carmen de las Cuevas Cuesta de los chinos 15 18010 Tel 958 221 062

Beauty: Martinas Hair Stylist, Plaza Realejo, 6 Tel: 657 920 105 Electrician: English Electrician – Guaranteed Prices UK & Spain Qualified Electrical Engineer Reliable - Efficient – Experienced martin@englishelectrician.com ph: 627080851 Web design:

Jobs Granada Insider, we are currently looking for writers, photographers, editors and salespeople.

English a must, Spanish a bonus.

Send your CV and the type of work you are interested in to granadainsider@gmail.com

TRS Design Web & Print Design Websites of any size, designed, built & hosted with style at affordable prices. Full design & print services for flyers, posters, logos, menus & more!

Visit www.trsdesign.com or call 958 535 061

Instituto Municipal de Formacion

ISSUE 01

?

Answers to Spanish Trivia 1. San Fermin, most famously associated with the Sanfermines festival, ie the running of the bulls through the streets of Pamplona.

2. Bilbao, this striking museum of modern art was designed by Canadian architect, Frank Gehry.

3. Segovia 4. Teide, this vocanic mountain is located on the island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands.

5. Literally translated from Arabic it means “the red one”.

6. A 7. Well A and B, a hotly argued subject, certainly originates from the gypsies in Andalusia, but there are arguments that gypsies in Andalucia may have originally arrived from the Flemish speaking Flanders region.

Answers to the sports stadium Trivia.

1. Brisbane - Cricket Australia, Queensland bulls (cricket), Brisbane Lions (Afl) 2. Chicago - Baseball - Chicago Cubs 3. Santander - Football - Racing de Santander 4. New Orleans - American Football - The Saints 5. Buenos Aires - Football - Boca Juniors 6. Limerick - Rugby - Munster 7. The home of national hunt horse racing, and the famous Cheltenham festival

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oUT AND ABoUT IN GRANADA Paddy´s Day 2010

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MAP OF GRANADA

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Insider HQ

Bar Poë

Metro Bookshop

Giardinos

Totes y Amigos Bar, Cafe, Restaurant

Martinas Hair Stylists

Paddy’s Bar

Plaza Campo Principe

Cassa Lopez Correa

Tourist Information

ISSUE 01

GRANADA

INSIDER

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Llamando Anunciantes

Calling All Advertisers

GRANADA

INSIDER

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