Great lakes guide outdoors

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The Outdoor Guide

Whitewater rafting, Pennsylvania

Illinois Indiana Michigan Minnesota Ohio Pennsylvania Wisconsin

www.greatlakesnorthamerica.co.uk

introduction and contents

the great lakes outdoor guide l Illinois l Indiana l Michigan l Minnesota

l Ohio l Pennsylvania l Wisconsin It’s an exciting and relatively unknown area of the United States of America. An area approximately the size of Europe with thousands of sparkling lakes, rivers and streams, including the five Great Lakes – akin to vast ‘inland seas’. Not to mention the mighty Mississippi River, mile upon mile of wide sandy beaches, scores of photogenic lighthouses, some of the world’s highest sand dunes and dramatic inland landscapes carved by Ice Age glaciers.

The Great Lakes of North America region is also a land of deep forests filled with wildlife, endless rolling prairies rippling with fields of grain, and a huge number of outdoor adventure opportunities ranging from canoeing, fishing and golf to skiing, dog sledding and snowmobiling.

On its shores and inland are the homes of more American Indian tribes than in any other area east of the Mississippi River, as well as welcoming towns and villages founded in the 18th and 19th centuries by French, English, German, Swiss, Scandinavian and numerous other European settlers.

Then there are the legendary cities: magnificent Chicago, the third-largest city in the USA, with its spectacular skyscrapers and superb museums and performing arts; handsome, historic Philadelphia, the ‘birthplace of America’; exciting, dramatically-sited Pittsburgh with its modern art museums; Detroit, where America’s motoring industry and irresistible Motown music were born; Cleveland, the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll; the fun city of Columbus; Indianapolis, home of the world-renowned Indy 500 races; the treasure-filled ‘Twin Cities’ of Minneapolis and Saint Paul, best known for the vast Mall of America; and vibrant Milwaukee, where you can enjoy everything from a tour of a Harley-Davidson plant to a visit to an historic Great Lakes sailing ship.

And – great news – it’s so easy to get there via flights from the UK into Chicago, Cleveland, Cincinnati, Detroit, Minneapolis-Saint Paul and Philadelphia – as well as flights from Ireland into Chicago and Philadelphia.

So what’s keeping you? The Great Lakes are yours to explore. The adventure starts here!

Published on behalf of the Great Lakes of North America by Phoenix International Publishing Ltd, PO Box 615, Horsham, Sussex RH 13 5WF, E-mail: postmaster@phoenixip.com. Editor: Natasha Lee, E-mail: natasha@bellegrovemedia.com.

Although every effort has been made to achieve accuracy, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any mistake or omissions.

The publication may not be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior permission of the publishers.

contents Finding your way around

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Illinois

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Water, water, everywhere

Indiana See you next dune! shopping

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Great Lakes, great shops

Michigan A breath of fresh air 15 Minnesota Shore thing

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Ohio A year-round destination 19 Pennsylvania

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Appalachian adventures

Wisconsin

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A Superior experience

Great Lakes Driving Tours

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Photographs courtesy of: Great Lakes of North America, Illinois Bureau of Tourism, Indiana Office of Tourism Development, Travel Michigan, Explore Minnesota Tourism, Ohio Division of Travel and Tourism, Pennsylvania Tourism Office, Travel Wisconsin. Additionally: Illinois p6 Chris McGuire, p8 Wildlife Prairie Park.

Pennsylvania p23 Regatta image B. Krist for GPTMC.

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Great Lakes of North America

finding your way around UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

www.exploreminnesota.com

GREAT STATE FACTS Location: Set along the Canadian border between the Midwest and north-eastern USA. www.gochicago.com

Included: Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Ohio, Pennsylvania and Wisconsin.

www.discoverohio.com

Land area: Approximately 364,000 square miles.

Climate: Usually a pleasant fresh spring, a hot sunny summer, a beautiful vibrant autumn and a crisp cold winter.

www.VisitIndiana.com

www.michigan.org

www.greatlakesnorthamerica.co.uk

Time zones: The eastern part of the region – Pennsylvania, Ohio and all but portions of northwestern Indiana and Michigan – are in the Eastern Standard Time Zone (five hours behind the UK) and Illinois, Minnesota and Wisconsin are in the Central Time Zone (six hours behind the UK).

Contacts for the UK and Ireland: The Great Lakes of North America Tourist Office, c/o Cellet Travel Services Ltd, Brook House, 47 High Street, Henley-in-Arden, Warwickshire B95 5AA Tel: 01564 794999 E-mail: info@cellet.co.uk or visit www.greatlakesnorthamerica.co.uk Callers from Ireland should dial +44 1564 794999

www.visitpa.com

www.travelwisconsin.com

illinois

Illinois State Facts State Capital: Springfield Population: 12,419,293 Size: 56,400 square miles Nicknames: Land of Lincoln Time of Statehood: December 3, 1818 Cruise on dry land or on water, Illinois is home to both Route 66 and the Mississippi River

illinois

www.gochicago.com

5 outdoor adventures

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Learn to skydive at the airport in Ottawa’s sprawling Skydive Chicago complex in northern Illinois.

Water, water, everywhere 2

With its western border marked by the mighty Mississippi River, its eastern and southern borders by the Wabash and Ohio rivers and miles of northern shorefront along Lake Michigan, Illinois is a paradise for those who love water sports, swimming and fishing.There are also lots of adventures for those who prefer to travel on two or four legs – or indeed four wheels.

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magine the envy of your friends back home when you brag about cruising down the Mississippi River on The Celebration Belle, horse riding in the very place (southern Illinois’s Père Marquette State Park) first visited by French

explorers in the 17th century, or driving down legendary Route 66, America’s ‘Mother Road’, stopping at iconic sites all along the way. You could even show them photos of yourself with a figure of Elvis, Marilyn or James Dean at

Feed the reindeer on a tour of Hardy’s Reindeer Ranch, located in Rantoul, just north of Urbana, or view native animals at the Wildlife Prairie Park in Peoria, in central Illinois.

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Stroll past the waterfalls, ponds and 18th-century teahouse of northern Illinois’s Anderson Japanese Gardens. They’re in Rockford, the state’s third largest city.

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Explore the 55-ft-wide limestone cave that once harboured Ohio River pirates in southern Illinois’s Cave-in-Rock State Park.

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Abseil down the massive bluffs of Giant City State Park near Carbondale, in southern Illinois.

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Great Lakes of North America Yk T a CI e br

chicago

Chicago, America’s third largest city and the major gateway to the Great Lakes region, was poet Carl Sandburg’s “city of the big shoulders” and Frank Sinatra’s “my kind of town”. Visit it, and you’ll soon discover why.

It’s difficult not to gawk at the stunning, skyscraper skyline, particularly at North America’s tallest building, the 1,450ft Sears Tower. You will be magnetically drawn to the glorious Lake Michigan waterfront, offering everything from wide, sandy beaches, a golf course and marinas, to Navy Pier’s Ferris wheel, carousel and cruise boats.

Chicago’s stunning skyscraper skyline is the backdrop to the Lake Michigan waterfront

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fun things to do in chicago

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Lie back and enjoy the stunning skyscraper scenery on a narrated Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise. The 90-minute cruises down the Chicago River run from early May until late November.

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Attend a concert of the Grant Park Orchestra and Chorus at the stunning Frank Gehry-designed Pritzker Pavilion in lakefront Millennium Park.

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Join Chicago baseball fans in cheering on the Chicago Cubs at iconic Wrigley Field.

Laugh with the Americans as they poke fun at themselves, their culture and their politicians at The Second City comedy venue (alumni include Dan Aykroyd, Joan Rivers, Bill Murray and the late John Candy).

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Take a free tour of the city led by a volunteer Chicago Greeter. Give the Greeter programme a bit of notice (www.chicagogreeter.com) and they’ll line you up with someone knowledgeable about your particular interest.

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Braidwood’s Polk-a-Dot Drive-In or enjoying one of those famous batter-coated hot dogs on a stick at Springfield’s Cozy Dog Drive-In! You could also spend a morning paddling a canoe down the sun-dappled Fox River near Ottawa, south of Chicago, an afternoon swimming, fishing and sailing along Illinois Beach State Park’s 6.5 mile sandy strand, north of Chicago, and an evening winning a small fortune at Elgin’s Grand Victoria Casino.

Another way to explore the Illinois River – and in considerable style – is by renting a houseboat from Starved Rock Adventures near Utica south of Chicago, whereas the best way to explore the small, charming towns along the Ohio River is via The Shawnee Queen River Taxi.

There are other water adventures in many of the state’s 130 state parks, which also offer everything from hiking, fishing and rock climbing to ice skating, sledding and camping. In some cases there’s also overnight accommodation in lodges and cabins.

Then there’s exhilarating shopping along the ‘Magnificent Mile’ (Michigan Avenue), evenings at a performance of the world-renowned Chicago Symphony Orchestra or at one of the numerous local theatres, and a safari to one or more of the city’s great museums. The Art Institute of Chicago is known for its treasury of Impressionist and Post Impressionist paintings and for its American masterpieces; the Field Museum of Natural History is home to Sue, the largest, best-preserved Tyrannosaurus Rex ever discovered, and then there are the Adler Planetarium and Astronomy Museum, the Museum of Science and Industry, the John G Shedd Aquarium/Oceanarium and a myriad of other options.

Once you run out of ‘must see’ things to do – as unlikely as that may be – there are the numerous colourful and varied neighbourhoods to explore, ranging from Chinatown to the Ukrainian Village; nearby Oak Park with its wealth of Frank Lloyd Wright-designed buildings and, of course, dining out and nightlife. Chicago’s restaurants excel in everything from succulent steaks so huge that they would defeat a rugby team to ethnic cuisine from around the world, and the city is renowned for its blues and jazz clubs.

When he was designing modern Chicago back in 1908, city planner Daniel Burnham wisely advised fellow residents to: “Make no little plans for they have no magic to stir men’s blood”. Today his vision continues to inspire residents and visitors alike.

Illinois is also full of scenic biking trails, along rives and lakes, through state parks and small towns and even into cities.

Among them are the 62-mile Great River Bike Trail, which parallels the Mississippi River, linking up at Moline and Rock Island with

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Your Great Lakes journey begins here.

Plan an exciting holiday to Chicago and beyond.

For great itineraries and must-see attractions, visit:

gochicago.com Credits: center inset: G. Kunz, bottom right, City of Chicago/C. McGuire

Great Lakes of North America the 535-mile Grand Illinois Trail, which loops around the state connecting the Mississippi with Lake Michigan.

Amazingly, there are more than 425 golf courses within a 60-mile radius of Chicago, as well more than 300 others throughout the state. Golf Digest named Rockford – the state’s third largest city and less than 90 miles west of Chicago – the best mid-sized golf city in the USA three years in a row, and historic Galena, an appealing tourist town further to the west, is also known for its golf resorts, bed and breakfasts, spas and even for skiing.

Rolling, central Illinois – site of the state capital of Springfield – is known as the ‘Land of Lincoln’. Future president Abraham Lincoln spent much of his colourful young adult life in the restored town of New Salem, near Petersburg. And Springfield, about 20 miles to the south-east, is full of Lincoln sites. You can easily stroll to the president’s family home, law office and to the fascinating new Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library & Museum. His tomb is also a short drive away.

GATEWAY FROM THE UK AND IRELAND: Chicago is served by American Airlines (www.americanairlines.co.uk) from London Heathrow, Manchester and Glasgow (summer only); British Airways (www.ba.com) and United Airlines (www.unitedairlines.co.uk) from Heathrow; and bmi (www.flybmi.com) from Manchester. American Airlines flies Dublin via Shannon to Chicago daily through the summer months.

Discover the state’s native animals at the Wildlife Prairie Park in Peoria

In southern Illinois the landscape becomes more dramatic. You can hike, ride, camp, swim and boat in the deep forestlands of the 268,400acre Shawnee National Forest; climb up the impressive rock formations of the Garden of the Gods; picnic beside waterfalls, or head for

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l Break your trip down legendary Route 66 at Springfield’s memorabilia-crammed Route 66 Gas Station Museum. If you’re lucky, owner Bill Shea, now in his mid 80s, will drop by to spin some yarns – even better, arrive during the fabulous, autumn International Route 66 Festival.

It’s a gas – no pun intended! l Spend the night at the Hard Day’s Night Bed and Breakfast in the Southern Illinois town of Benton. The B&B’s name commemorates Beatle George Harrison’s 1963

www.greatlakesnorthamerica.co.uk

Essentially America magazine editor Mary Moore Mason has not only spent many an hour in the shops along Chicago’s ‘Magnificent Mile’ (and has the credit card bills to prove it) but has also written a guide to the State of Illinois.

ILL INOIS

l Dress up like Superman, Clark Kent or Lois Lane and thrill visitors at the annual June Superman Celebration held in ‘The Man of Steel’s’ southern Illinois ‘hometown’ of Metropolis.

Shy? Then just have your photo made with the superhero’s statue, splendid in blue tights and red underpants and cape.

Collinsville and marvel at the prehistoric Native American Cahokia Mounds, designated a United Nations World Heritage Site.

Who said that Illinois was all just flat, prairie land, plus one big fabulous city?

visit to his sister Louise, still a Benton resident. l Take a trip back to 1940s-style small town America by visiting Rockome Gardens, deep in the heart of central Illinois’s Amish country.

Take a buggy ride, admire the gardens and rock formations, visit a 1940s home and school house, enjoy a soda at Elvan’s soda fountain, dine at the Days Gone By restaurant and make sure to drop by the Five and Dime for a very special gift! l View the statue of the World’s Tallest Man – 8-ft, 11-inch ‘Gentle Giant’ Robert Wadlow (1918-1940) – on the grounds of Alton’s Southern Illinois University

School of Dentistry. Then learn about the town’s role in aiding slaves to escape on ‘The Underground Railroad’.

indiana

5 outdoor adventures

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Play a famous Pete Dye-designed golf course such as Birck Boilermaker Golf Complex in West Lafayette, which was recently used for the National Intercollegiate championships.

The course designed by master golf architect Tom Fazio at Belterra Casino Resort and Spa in Southern Indiana

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Take to the trails, on horseback, foot, or mountain bike. Indiana has exceptional forested and hill terrain.

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Visit the Amish. Amish communities are distinctive for their curved red barns, erected by the entire community in a day of ‘barn-raising’. Buy their excellent cheeses or wooden furniture and crafts.

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Go on a covered bridge tour. Unique to the US, late nineteenth-century covered bridges are a quirky feature of the landscape in western Indiana (especially in Putnam and Park counties).

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Go canoeing or kayaking on the Wabash or White Rivers. Visit www.canoeindiana.com for more information.

Indiana See you next dune!

From the surreal desert terrain of the Indiana dunes, to world-class hiking and biking across gently sloping hills, Indiana’s outdoors are sure to bring a ruddy Midwestern glow to your cheeks…

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ndiana styles itself as ‘The Crossroads of America’, a cheery motto that isn’t too far off the mark. Stretching south from Chicago and the base of Lake Michigan, the Midwestern state is blessed with a central location and swathes of flat farmable land, which are embroidered with a scrawl of Great Lakes tributaries (Wabash River, the largest of these, bisects the state from northeast to southwest and gives the state its theme song ‘On The Banks of The Wabash’).

Much like its Midwestern cousins, Indiana is a broad-shouldered man’s man’s land, where manly sports and the outdoors lifestyle are held in high regard. Famously home to the Indianapolis Motor Speedway (which stages the Indy 500 motor race, the world’s largest one-day sporting event), Indiana also regularly hosts national college sports championships – as well as perhaps the apex of

Indiana State Facts State Capital: Indianapolis Population: 6,080,485

manliness, the National Firemen Convention held in the state capital each May. Indiana’s flat expanses may ruckle into gentle rolling hills in the south-central region, but even here the terrain is benevolent for hiking and mountain biking – two of the perennially popular outdoor activities in the state. Unsurprisingly for such a wet state, fishing is popular too, as are less sedate waterborne activities, such as canoeing and rafting.

GATEWAY FROM THE UK: Indiana is easily accessible from Cincinnati and Chicago, both served daily by direct flights from the UK. Delta Air Lines (www.delta.com) flies from London Gatwick to Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky.

Chicago is served by BA, United, bmi or American Airlines.

Size: 36,185 square miles Nicknames: Hoosier State Time of Statehood: December 11, 1816

www.VisitIndiana.com Crouched in forested hills an hour’s drive south of Indianapolis, Brown County is the largest of Indiana’s state parks, with nearly 20 miles of roads and scenic views of emerald slopes and a great starting point for exploring Indiana’s outdoors.

Brown County has a little of everything the state does well: from its extensive hiking, mountain biking and horse riding trails (in Hoosier National Forest territory), to fishing and, for the particularly hardy, winter ice-fishing.

For the state’s best canoeing and kayaking, www.greatlakesnorthamerica.co.uk

Great Lakes of North America head to the aptly named Canoe Country, on the swift-coursing White River in Daleville. The ambitious 11-mile route winds from Daleville through Timberline Ranch and Mounds State park, with exhilarating small rapids to speed you along. But if more sedate boating’s your bag, try nearby Albion, for a splash along the eight connecting lakes of the Chain O’ Lakes State Park.

Who says North America doesn’t do history? For an excellent antidote to

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fun things to do in indianapolis

Eiteltjorg Museum

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Visit the Slippery Noodle Inn, a downtown club with a dark history (it was the centre of illegal booze racketeering during the prohibition years) and a down and dirty present (its underground club pumps out blues seven nights a week).

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Visit Eiteltjorg Museum of American Indians and Western Art, the only museum dedicated to American Indians in the Midwest. An exceptional collection, including rare craftwork and clothing. Excellent terrace café too.

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Catch a baseball game at Victory Field, the home of the Indianapolis Indians, with the downtown skyline as its dramatic backdrop, don’t miss the all-American hotdogs and crackerjacks too.

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Dine at The Conrad. The Du Soleil restaurant is one of the newest operations in town, and truly world-class.

Visit Carmel. The suburb to the north of the Indianapolis is home to the slickest shops and businesses, and a range of extravagant self-build homes.

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the glossy modernity of Indianapolis’ skyscrapers, visit the Falls of the Ohio, a state park famous for its 386-million-year old fossil beds (at 22 acres, amongst the largest exposed Devonian fossil beds in the world). The best time to visit is between the months of August and October, when the river is at its lowest and there’s much more to see.

Mounds State Park, located off I-69 east of Anderson, features 10 unique ‘earthworks’, built by a group of prehistoric Indians known as the AdenaHopewell people (Indiana, by the way, means ‘land of the Indians’). The largest earthwork, the ‘Great Mound’, was constructed around 160 BC. Why not camp amid the Mound’s earthworks overnight and be up with the lark for a spot of birdwatching, another popular park activity? Keep your eye out for the shocking red-feathers of the cardinal, Indiana’s state bird, named after redrobed Roman Catholic cardinals.

Golfers in particular will be in their element in Indiana, the state that’s home to the world-famous golf-course designer Pete Dye as well as several of his remarkable creations. Any keen local golfer (and there are plenty) will talk at length about the pleasing variety in Indiana’s courses – from Brickyard crossing, a Dye design, situated in the middle of a car-racing track in the heart of the city, to the ambitious Buck Point in Liberty with its fully electric reservoir (designed

by Pete’s son and protégé P.B. Dye).

Keen swimmers will love the natural open-air pool at Harmonie State Park on the banks of the River Wabash, set against its backdrop of craggy ravines.

When you’ve dried off, head to nearby New Harmony for an intriguing insight into the Raphenite and Owenite utopian communities, who settled here in the 1800s. Many such isolated communities exist across Indiana, most famously

indiana

the Old Order Amish in the northeast and central-west of the state. For a chance to sample traditional Amish foods and crafts and an insight into the simple Amish lifestyle (which bans modern fripperies such as buttons and electricity) don’t miss Amish Acres in Nappannee, northern Indiana.

Upstate, edged by the vast urban sprawl of Chicago to the west, you’ll find the almost otherworldly terrain of the Indiana Dunes State Park, a remarkable contrast to the topography across the rest of the state. Bordering the glassy Lake Michigan, this three-mile stretch of bleached white sand is great fun for cross-country skiing, hiking or swimming or merely kicking back for a lakeside sunbathing session, beneath the shade of desert plants, giant wood ferns and white pines. Perfect for a well-needed rest after all the high-octane activity in the south of this great Midwestern state.

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l Food festivals in Indiana pay homage to the produce others often overlook. Hoosiers celebrate the harvesting of morel mushrooms with auctions and fry-offs (Mansfield, May) and pumpkins (the Versailles pumpkin show in September). l No trip to Indianapolis is complete

without watching the Pacers (basketball) or Indians (baseball). l Carnivores will be in their element – this is the Midwest, where your plate should be furnished by a whole heap of meat. Try Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, where sports celebrities hang out when they’re in town.

Indianapolis

CITY

Indianapolis’ hotel rooms have long been packed to bursting in May, for the Indy 500, the hottest date on the world speed car racing brea k calendar. Of late Indy has capitalised further on this racing fever, with a range of glossy additions to the car racing calendar, including the US Grand Prix and the Allstate 400 at the Brickyard, both held in the summer. But what’s on offer if you’re not into the sound of tyres screeching on tarmac? Well, in many senses Indy is a little sister Chicago: with a similar working-class work ethic, a handful of skyscrapers stretching up into a crisp blue sky and a no-nonsense attitude that extends to everything from food (hearty fare) to nightlife (beer kellers and smoke fogged old-style cocktail bars). Much of this attitude can be attributed to Indiana’s residents, who are largely of German stock – so naturally Indy’s a great place to seek out a robust malty beer.

The city’s trendiest district is Broad Ripple, a hotbed of arts and entertainment with a good student scene. For arts, visit the unique Stutz gallery, a massive complex housed in a former car factory. On monthly open nights artists open their studios to the public and offer free drinks and snacks. As the black Midwest night draws in try Nicky Blaine’s, a velvet-draped cocktail and cigar spot downtown, with an air of old-time glamour.

Sally Howard is a UK- and US-based travel and culture writer. She currently contributes, amongst numerous others, to The Guardian, Condé Nast Traveller, The Sunday Times and Marie Claire. A long-time fan of the simple soul of the American Midwest, she now spends six months of her year in Indianapolis, with her partner Gabriel Crouch, a choral music professor at Indiana’s DePauw University.

Turkey Run State Park. 2006.

Somehow, the most rugged trails seem to lead to the greatest sense of peace.

restart your engines

VisitIndiana.com

restart your engines

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Great Lakes of North America

Great Shops Make your city break complete, and your friends at home jealous, by taking advantage of the region’s fabulous shops.

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he Great Lakes region offers countless opportunities for retail therapy. With great exchange rates and, in some states, no tax on clothing and shoes, there are amazing bargains to be had – particularly in the numerous outlet malls. Look out for Chelsea Premium Outlets across the region, where names such as Gap, Timberland, Polo Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein offer discounts of up to 65%.

Minnesota is home to the magnificent Mall of America, the largest shopping and entertainment centre in the USA with the country’s largest indoor family theme park. In the Minneapolis/Saint Paul area, Albertville Premium Outlets offers a wide

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selection of discounted designer apparel. There’s a treasury of shops in and around Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. Downtown Philadelphia has over 2,000 department stores and shops, including the Gallery at Market East, America’s largest indoor urban shopping centre. In addition to Pittsburgh’s downtown ‘Golden Triangle’ shopping areas, there’s the new Galleria at Pittsburgh Mills 33 miles north-east of the city.

Chicago’s North Michigan Avenue, also known as ‘the Magnificent Mile’, is a shopaholic’s dream.

Look out for chic side streets like Oak Street, and don’t miss State Street’s majestic, 10-storey Macy’s (formerly Marshall Field’s).

In downtown Indianapolis there’s a choice

of the numerous shops in Circle Centre mall, boutiques along trendy Massachusetts Avenue and antique shops in Fountain Square.

Both Madison and Milwaukee offer unique shops in picturesque areas. In Madison you can browse in the eclectic speciality shops lining State Street mall. In Milwaukee the place to go is the trendy and historic Third Ward, a restored warehouse district crammed with galleries, outdoor cafes and antique shops. Bargainhunters should head for Johnson Creek Premium Outlets, served by a daily bus from Milwaukee.

Visitors to Ohio will love Columbus’s Easton Center, which offers not only shops but live improvised comedy dinner shows; and the Cleveland area’s retail/residential Crocker Park complex. In Detroit, take your pick of three main shopping areas: Greektown, New Centre Place and The Riverfront Shops.

michigan

Isle Royale National Park, home to moose, timberwolves and foxes

Michigan State Facts State Capital: Lansing Population: 10 million Size: 79,610 square miles Nicknames: The Great Lakes State Time of Statehood: May 11, 1868

www.michigan.org

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fun things to do in d e t r oi t

The Henry Ford: This consists of a huge Museum, Greenfield Village (a sprawling recreation of American life in period style) and the Ford Factory tour. The Museum itself is a magnificent presentation of 19th and 20th century history, celebrating all things American.

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The Motown Museum: A key highlight of Detroit, here you can see the famous Studio A where the Temptations and Marvin Gaye (among others) recorded their hits.

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Greektown: The city’s surprising Greek heritage is showcased in this compact area, with some authentic restaurants and shops, plus the city’s casino district.

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Sport: Don’t leave without trying at least one of the Red Wings (ice-hockey), Lions (American football), Tigers (baseball) or Pistons (basketball), all of which offer great entertainment as well as an essential slice of Americana.

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Detroit Zoo: Celebrating and saving wildlife is their motto, and this zoo lives up to that tag with a lot of clever interactive exhibits and activities.

A breath of fresh air

Think Great Lakes and you have to think Michigan. Bordered by Lakes Erie, Superior, Huron and Michigan, it more than lives up to the ‘Great’ tag.

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t is also a state with three faces – summer, autumn and winter. The former can be blazingly hot (up to 35ºC), while the fall is often blissfully warm (around 22ºC) and characterised by a different kind of blaze – the magnificent autumn foliage, in burnished browns, golds and reds.

Winter is a horse of a different colour – mainly white. Snow is frequent, up to two metres from November to March, with possible snowfalls as late as May. It also ensures Michigan has a wintry alter ego, deep frozen for weeks at a time, but still boasting plenty of fun, with skiing, snowmobiling and even ice-fishing all high on the agenda.

And therein lies the key to this extensive area

of wheat and corn fields, forests, fruit farms, sand dunes and lakes. Getting into the Great Outdoors is Michigan’s real attraction, from the beaches of Lake Michigan to the wildlife-rich National Parks.

Heading out into the state itself, you are spoiled for choice, with a huge variety of parks, waterways and sporting pursuits. Top of anyone’s agenda has to be Mackinac Island, a true period gem set between Lakes Huron and Michigan. Its Victorian image is

TaYk CbIre

DETROIT

The Motor City boasts the secondhighest number of theatres in the US, after New York, a lively Science Center and some smart new casinos.

The gritty industrial background has also given rise to generations of tough sporting teams as well as music-makers (from Smokey Robinson and Diana Ross to Eminem), and there is a slick modern veneer at places like the $500 million Renaissance Center (home of General Motors).

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5 outdoor adventures

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Mackinac Island: This unmissable Victorian resort is one of America’s hidden gems. From the American Revolutionary Fort Mackinac to the wealth of 19th-century shops, inns and museums, this is a journey through a bygone era, where home-made fudge, bicycle tours, horse riding and unhurried leisure snub their nose at the modern mainland.

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Golf: Michigan is great golf country, with more than 900 public courses (more than any other state in America), and you can’t go anywhere without finding first-class facilities.

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Sleeping Bear Dunes: This eye-catching phenomenon features immense sand dunes, forests and ancient glacial phenomena, plus an excellent Maritime Museum with daily (summer) re-enactments of their Life Saving Service.

Garland Resort, Lewston, hosts four championship golf courses

preserved by the fact that cars were banned here in 1898, and all transport is by bike, horse and carriage.

It is also home to the breathtaking Grand Hotel, a majestic 1887 edifice that is a bona fide American landmark. Its gracious style and peerless service is a throwback to kinder, gentler times – with the added benefit of airconditioning and five-star cuisine!

Head north into the Upper Peninsula and you discover splendours aplenty. Go hiking in Isle Royale National Park and you might glimpse moose, timberwolves and foxes; go diving in Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary and you encounter one of America’s most significant collections of historic shipwrecks; and in rugged

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l Bronner’s Christmas Wonderland (in the ‘Little Bavaria’ of Frankenmuth) is the selfproclaimed World’s Largest Christmas Store® – an amazing homage to everything Yule related, with more ornaments, trees, lights, Nativity scenes and collectibles than Santa could imagine! The 7.5-acre store is also illuminated by more than 100,000 lights. l Michigan is home to various

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Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore you can enjoy beautiful beaches, cliff-side walks and inland lakes. Another highlight is Tahquamenon Falls, one of the largest waterfalls east of the Mississippi.

Go south again – through evocative outposts like Mackinaw City, Elk Rapids and Traverse City – and another spectacular vista awaits at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, with 60km of Lake Michigan’s eastern shore.

Of course, there are other cities to visit – bustling Grand Rapids, quaint Ludington and the university-centric Ann Arbor – and there is even a major theme park, Michigan’s Adventure, north of Muskegon (late May to early September only).

fruit industries, including the unique Cherry Republic, a store, bakery and winery devoted to all things cherry-like.

In the tiny town of Glen Arbor, ‘the Cherry Capital of the US,’ their ice cream parlour is true heaven and the wine a real (and pleasant) surprise. l For a real ‘slice’ of local life, Cornwell’s Turkeyville (in Marshall) is an astonishing industry based around a turkey farm that grew and grew. They specialise in turkey dinners

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River tubing: Magnificent fun on many of the state’s rivers (notably the Au Sable and Manistee), just hire a large, inflatable tube and float lazily with the current to your pick-up point.

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Fishing: Michigan is mad for water sports – there are more than 960,000 registered boats in the state – but fishing can be found practically everywhere and offers great sport.

But, more than anything, Michigan is about getting into that Great Outdoors and revelling in the space and freedom; hearing the coyotes howl at night; watching fireflies, humming birds, chipmunks and other varieties of wildlife; and seeing more stars in the night sky than you ever imagined.

For, ultimately, this is a back-to-nature state that is, literally, a breath of fresh air.

GATEWAY FROM THE UK: (and pies, sandwiches, salads, stir-fries, etc), with their own entertainment (including dinner theatre), bakery, icecream parlour, shops and flea markets that guarantee oldfashioned family fun. l Visit the beaches at Sleeping Bear Dunes and search for the unique Petoskey Stones, fossilized coral deposited by glaciers on the north-west Lake Michigan shoreline during the last Ice Age.

Detroit Metro Airport is served directly by British Airways from London Heathrow and from London Gatwick by Northwest Airlines (www.nwa.com), but you could try Chicago (direct with BA, United, bmi or American Airlines), from where west Michigan is easily accessible by car.

Simon Veness is a US-based British travel writer who spends most of his time in Michigan and Florida – plus many points in between. He is best known for the Brit’s Guide travel book series and as a Disney expert, but Brighton, Michigan, has been his second home for several years now and he is a big fan of the state.

Minnesota

Minnesota Shore thing

Stunning Voyageurs National Park, named after early French traders

Minnesota State Facts State Capital: Saint Paul Population: 4.9 million Size: 79,548 square miles Nicknames: North Star State Time of Statehood: May 11, 1858

www.exploreminnesota.com

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Fort Snelling

l Hold a musket or sing along with soldiers at Fort Snelling, an 1827 living history experience. l Twine Ball Days in Darwin celebrates the world’s largest ball of twine, 12 feet in diameter. l Learn all about SPAM, the luncheon

meat, in the museum in Austin. l TONKA toy trucks originally came from Lake Minnetonka, in Mound, a suburb of Minneapolis. l Statues of allAmerican icons Paul Bunyan, the lumberjack, and Babe, his blue ox, are in Bemidji.

The state car licence plates sum it up: Land of 10,000 Lakes. In fact, this vast state has over 15,000 bodies of water, so it is no surprise that many reckon that paddling is the best way to explore. After all, the canoes are stable and large; the water is flat and calm and the views are breathtaking: pine forests and open skies. For 100 detailed lake and river itineraries, pick up a copy of Paddling Minnesota, the official state guide.

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mong the most popular destinations is Voyageurs National Park. Larger than the Isle of Man, the park is five hours north of the Twin Cities and recalls the days when French traders (voyageurs) travelled through the wilderness in birch bark canoes.

Paddle a canoe or head off in a houseboat.

Take a guided boat tour or nature walk; or follow any of the well signposted hiking trails.

Depending on the season, you could see tiny warblers or white pelicans. Listen for the strange call of the loon and watch for beaver… and black bear!

Bigger than Kent, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness boasts 1,500 miles of canoe trails. Although there are plenty of campgrounds inside the park, overseas visitors often find it more convenient to book in to the resorts, motels or RV parks in towns on the edge of the park. At Ely, the main gateway, you can learn all about wolves at the International Wolf Center.

Water is everywhere in Minnesota. At the source of the mighty Mississippi, among the

gigantic red and white pines in Itasca State Park, you can hop over the trickle that flows out of the lake, on the start of a 2552-mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico. As you follow the Great River

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outdoor adventures

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Catch a monster lake salmon or trout, a walleye or a coho on Lake Superior.

Play a popular Native American golf course, such as the challenging Dacotah Ridge Golf Club, owned by the Lower Sioux Indian Community.

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Discover what the prairies were like at Blue Mounds State Park, with its buffalo herd, tall thick prairie grass and wildflowers.

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See stalactites and stalagmites in the 12 miles of underground passages in Forestville/ Mystery Cave State Park.

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In winter, go snowmobiling or dog sledding through pristine countryside; it’s the thrill of a lifetime!

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Great Lakes of North America ITYk

Minneapolis- Saint Paul

Known as the Twin Cities, Minneapolis and Saint Paul are on the Mississippi ea br River and only 10 miles apart, but they are not identical. l Saint Paul, the state capital, has fine old mansions and leafy boulevards. The Science Museum of Minnesota is one of the most popular in the country, while the Mississippi River Visitor Center tells the story of Ol’ Man River. l Minneapolis has skyscrapers and large squares.

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2006 saw the opening of the Guthrie Theater on the River and the new wing of the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, where entry is still free. Live music flourishes; after all, this is the home state of Bob Dylan and Prince. Don’t miss the Mall of America, the USA’s biggest and just minutes from the international airport in Bloomington. As well as over 500 stores, it has an indoor theme park and an aquarium. Best of all, there is no sales tax on clothing in Minnesota.

Sunrise over Lake Superior as viewed from Palisade Head near Tettegouche State Park.

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Enjoy the Minneapolis Aquatennial, a 10-day celebration in July with free concerts, fireworks and a huge parade.

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Summer’s end brings the Minnesota State Fair with rides, music, monster truck races and livestock.

The Saint Paul Winter Carnival is the largest in the USA, ice palaces 15 storeys high have been known to feature!

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The film A Prairie Home Companion is based on the long-running radio show. Get a ticket, head for the Saint Paul’s Fitzgerald Theater and listen to humorist Garrison Keillor.

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Cruise the Mississippi River aboard an oldfashioned paddle boat that offers lunch or dinner.

GATEWAY FROM THE UK: Minneapolis/Saint Paul International Airport is served by Northwest Airlines (www.nwa.com) from London Gatwick via Amsterdam and Icelandair (www.icelandair.co.uk) from London Gatwick and Glasgow via Reykjavik.

Road for 575 miles to see Ol’ Man River get into its stride, stop at the National Eagle Center in Wabasha to watch these amazing birds of prey.

Minnesota also has 90,000 miles of shoreline.

That’s more than California, Florida and Hawaii combined. One of the most beautiful sections is the North Shore Scenic Drive, the 150-mile route that runs along Lake Superior, the world’s largest freshwater lake. As you meander along this All-American Road, from Duluth to the Canadian border, highlights include 18

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Hawk Ridge, where autumn brings thousands of migrating hawks, and the Split Rock Lighthouse, with 25-mile views. Stop to explore a gravel beach; look down and you might spot an agate, the official state gemstone.

With some 500 glorious courses to choose from, golf-mad Minnesotans never have to wait for a tee time. Take the Brainerd Golf Trail, three hours northwest of Saint Paul. With some 20 courses set among 450 lakes, thick woods and wetlands alive with wildlife, this

is one of the ‘Top 50 Golf Destinations in the World,’ according to Golf Digest magazine.

Incidentally, Tom Lehman, the 1996 British Open winner is from Austin, Minnesota. And, whatever your outdoor adventure, you can stay in comfortable accommodation, from luxurious resorts to Paul Wade is a UKfamily-friendly based writer who is lodges and still practicing how to say ‘Minne-soda’ even rustic like a native. cabins.

ohio

Autumn in Ohio’s Tuscarawas County

Ohio State Facts State Capital: Columbus Population: 11,353,140 Size: 40,952.6 square miles Nicknames: Buckeye State Time of Statehood: March 1, 1803

www.discoverohio.com

Ohio

A year-round destination

Ohio enjoys four great seasons. In April and May, the gardens are full of flowers; summers are hot, just right for water sports and exploring the cool, green forests. One of the state’s great secrets is its fabulous ‘fall foliage’ season, when trees such as the red maple and yellow beech shimmer in the autumn sunshine. Under winter’s blue skies, it is fun to go snowmobiling and cross-country skiing.

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hatever time you visit, there is plenty of room for you in Ohio’s Great Outdoors. Lake Erie offers great swimming, boating and fishing, along with newer sports such as sea kayaking and

parasailing. Migratory birds fly through the state, often stopping for R&R in the lakeside marshes of Crane Creek State Park. In southern Ohio, you can walk or ride a horse in the 63,000-acres of the Shawnee State Park and

Sailing on Lake Erie

Forest, once a hunting ground for Shawnee Indians. Or, take a boat from the marina and explore the nearby Ohio River. Ohio also offers 74 beautiful state parks, many of which have accommodation, ranging from luxurious

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fun things to do in cleveland and columbus

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Cleveland: Try the House of Blues Sunday Gospel Brunch.The award-winning Gospel Brunch at House of Blues Cleveland is a one-of-a-kind live music show and dining experience. Every week different gospel groups from around the region perform live on stage.

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Cleveland: Wander round West Side Market, a 95-year-old institution.

Columbus: See a play, music or symphony performance at the beautifully renovated Ohio Theater.

Columbus: Tailgate at an Ohio State Football game.

You don’t need tickets, but bring food and drink for a real Midwest American experience (Game day Saturdays, September – November only).

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Columbus: Take a day trip to The Wilds, where some of the world’s most endangered animals roam freely.

resorts to self-catering cottages. Admission is inexpensive and activities range from rock climbing to biking on hundreds of miles of trails.

Mother Nature is never far away, even from cities. Cuyahoga Valley National Park, stretching from Cleveland to Akron, has rugged hiking trails as well as reminders of the Ohio & Erie Canal, an important transport route in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Then there is the Buckeye Trail, a 1,400-mile long hikers’ path that loops round the state, past farmland, along canal towpaths and through the beautiful Hocking Hills. You will see horse chestnut trees everywhere. Always called

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Cleveland

On Lake Erie, Cleveland is one of k America’s ‘international visitor ea br hotspots’, according to Travel and Leisure magazine. With superb museums and famous sports teams, great shopping and dining, Cleveland has it all. Start at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, a star attraction in the city where the words ‘rock ‘n’ roll’ were first broadcast. Nearby are Severance Hall, home of the renowned Cleveland Orchestra, and the historic theatres of Playhouse Square. Shop and dine in Tower City Center and the transformed Warehouse District. Stylish, classy and fun: that’s 21st-century Cleveland.

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Ohio’s golf courses offer novices and experts challenging terrain

buckeyes in Ohio, these are the trees that give the state and its residents the ‘Buckeye’ nickname!

Apart from Ohio’s eight US presidents, one of the most famous Buckeyes is Jack Nicklaus, whose Muirfield Village Golf Club, north of Columbus, hosts the annual PGA Memorial golf tournament. Among the state’s 800 outstanding courses, over 600 are public; greens fees run as low as £15 a round at the beautiful Blackhawk GC (Galena, near Columbus) and £22 at the testing Vineyard GC (near Cincinnati).

When it comes to the highest, fastest and scariest rides, Ohio just cannot be beat! Thrill

C o l umbus – C a p i tal of Fun In the heart of the state, Columbus is not only the state capital, but a fantastic place to serve as the hub for exciting day-trips. In Columbus, shop at Easton Town Center or the art galleries in the Short North. Dine in the urban chic German Village area or the trendy Arena District. Visit Franklin Park Conservatory or the world-renowned Columbus Zoo and wander through the area’s historic towns.

Head south for the spectacular Hocking Hills area where hiking, canoeing and other outdoor pursuits are plentiful. Or, take a trip west to Dayton and the National Aviation Historical Park to see the birthplace of aviation.

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outdoor adventures Ohio’s state and national parks provide fun for all the family

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Catch a whopping walleye, small-mouth bass or perch on Lake Erie, the ‘Walleye Capital of the World’.

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Cycle the 78-mile long Little Miami Scenic Bikeway, following the Little Miami River from Cincinnati to Springfield.

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East of Cincinnati, explore the 400-yard long Serpent Mound, built by the Adena people about 1,000 years ago.

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Scuba dive down to sunken ships; there are hundreds just offshore in Lake Erie.

Go ‘tubing’, sitting in a huge inner tube, down the gentle Mohican River, from Loudonville.

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seekers head for Cedar Point, a 364-acre amusement park/resort in Sandusky, near Cleveland. Nominated ‘Best Amusement Park in the World’ by Amusement Today, it comes with 68 roller-coasters and thrill rides. New in 2006, Skyhawk has two giant swinging arms that take riders up to 60 mph! Also new is Great Wolf Lodge, a huge indoor waterpark adjacent to the King’s Island theme park. Among the 50 thrill rides are ‘The Beast’, the world’s longest roller-coaster and ‘Son of Beast’, the fastest and highest. But, little ones are also catered for, with Nickelodeon™ Universe and The Funtastic World of Hanna-Barbera.

Much more peaceful is the countryside.

Saddle up and go for a ride through Amish Country, where you can see horse-drawn buggies on quiet lanes, buy yummy fruit pies at farmers’ auctions (markets) and eat in Amish dining rooms. And look out for barns.

Every one of Ohio’s 88 counties boasts a barn painted with the logo that celebrated the state’s Bicentennial in 2003.

War Memorial Fountain in Cleveland, Ohio

O HIO l Akron gained the nickname of Rubber City, thanks to companies such as BF Goodrich, Goodyear and Firestone. l American football fans head for Canton and the exciting Pro Football Hall of Fame.

GATEWAY FROM THE UK: Delta Air Lines (www.delta.com) flies from London Gatwick to Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky. Continental Airlines (www.continental.com) has summer flights to Cleveland International Airport from London Gatwick.

l In late July, Annie Oakley Days celebrates Greenville’s favourite daughter with a parade, rodeo, music and, of course,

shooting contests.

onl y in…

l The world’s only popcorn museum is in Marion, host to the annual Popcorn Festival in September. l Wapakoneta is the home of Neil Armstrong, the first man on the moon. The Armstrong Air & Space Museum features a moon rock and Apollo 11 artefacts.

Writer Kathy Arnold lives in London, but grew up in Columbus, Ohio.

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Pennsylvania State Facts State Capital: Harrisburg Population: 12,200,000 Size: 45,000 square miles Nicknames: The Keystone State Time of Statehood: December 12, 1787

www.visitpa.com

Pennsylvania Appalachian adventures

With such beautiful rivers as the Delaware and Susquehanna, beach frontage on Lake Erie, access to America’s longest public footpath – the Appalachian Trail – idyllic mountain resorts and vast forestlands, Pennsylvania is the ideal place for an outdoor adventure.

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orth-eastern Pennsylvania’s Delaware Water Gap claims to be the largest recreational area in the eastern USA, with 40 miles of Delaware River reserved for canoeists, swimmers and tubers. In the southcentral Allegheny Mountains, Raystown Lake, largest in the state, offers fabulous fishing for everything from lake trout to large-mouth bass plus horse riding, canoeing, scuba diving and even house-boat rentals.

Some of the best Class III and IV whitewater rafting in America is to be found along Ohiopyle State Park’s 14-mile Youghiogheny River Gorge, south of Pittsburgh. There’s seven miles of beaches, multi-purpose trails, swimming, birding, picnicking and sailing at Presque Isle State Park, set on a sandy peninsula jutting into Lake Erie. And to this has 22

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been added the new interactive Tom Ridge Environmental Center, where you can learn more about the wonders of the natural world.

You can even kayak, canoe and fish against the dramatic skylines of Pittsburgh and Philadelphia, both bordered by rivers – Philadelphia by the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, and Pittsburgh, dramatically set on the peninsula where the Monongahela and Allegheny flow into the Ohio.

If you prefer to hike and bike instead, there are numerous opportunities. Some 232 miles of the famous Maine-Georgia Appalachian Trail wind their way across the state and, when it’s completed this year, the 150-mile Great Allegheny Passage will allow hikers and bikers to travel all the way from Pittsburgh to Washington, DC.

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Spend an afternoon at the Philadelphia Zoo – America’s first – enjoying an overview of the city from its tethered ZooBalloon. (Another option for a great overview is the top of City Hall, reached by elevator.)

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Shop for homemade foods at downtown Philadelphia’s colourful Reading Terminal Market, where some of the stalls are run by traditionallydressed Amish or Mennonite farm families.

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Make a pilgrimage to The Barnes Foundation just outside Philly, making sure to book at least two months in advance as there’s limited admission to what’s considered one of the world’s finest collections of French Impressionist paintings.

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Ride on the funicular to the top of Pittsburgh’s 450ft Mount Washington for what USA Today has called one of the most beautiful views in the USA.

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Take a trip south-east of Pittsburgh on Interstate 70/76 to view Mill Run’s dramatically-sited Fallingwater, perhaps the best-known of iconic architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s creations. (It’s open midMarch to November; another Wright-designed home, Kentuck Knob, is sited in nearby Chalk Hill.)

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l Go for a hike on the nation’s longest marked footpath – some of the gentlest sections of the 2,175 mile Appalachian Trail are in Pennsylvania. l Spot a future baseball star in the making at the annual Little League World Series held each year in Williamsport, the national birthplace of the junior version of America’s favourite sport.

Fly-fishing in tranquil Raystown Lake

l Count the covered bridges (there are 30 in all) while touring Lancaster County’s picturesque farmlands, villages and towns in an Amish horse-drawn buggy. Then enjoy an all-you-can-eat hearty Pennsylvania Dutch (actually German-American) meal in one of the local restaurants.

l Watch Phil, the celebrity groundhog, predict the weather for the forthcoming year each February by casting, or not casting, his shadow in front of the ‘Inner Circle’ and other VIPs in his north-western Pennsylvania hometown of Punxsutawney. l During the fourth weekend in June, Johnstown and the surrounding region host thousands of bikers who gather to join the fun and festivities of Thunder in the Valley Motorcycle Rally, one of the fastestgrowing rallies in the eastern United States. l Longwood Gardens, located 45 minutes from downtown Philadelphia, is a horticultural showplace. Highlights include 4.5 acres of indoor gardens and an array of performances year round.

“You can even kayak, canoe and fish against the dramatic skylines of Pittsburgh and Philadelphia, both bordered by rivers.”

The sheltered waters of Philadelphia’s Schuylkill River make it one of the world’s most coveted regatta sites

The 18th hole at Inniscrone Golf Club just outside Philadelphia

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Great Lakes of North America Ph ila delp hia an d P itt sburgh Philadelphia and Pittsburgh are sited like magnificent book ends at both k sides of Pennsylvania, between them ea r encompassing much of the history, b culture and urban lifestyle of this remarkable state. Each city has a vibrant and picturesque waterfront, and each is known for its outstanding museums and orchestras, wealth of in-town and surrounding shopping opportunities, and variety of attractive and quite different neighbourhoods.

Otherwise they are delightfully different.

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Pennsylvania’s ‘Little Grand Canyon’ in Tioga County

Golfers have a choice of 700 courses.

Among them: Oakmont Country Club, northeast of Pittsburgh, where the US Open Golf Championship will take place in 2007; and the Nemacolin Woodlands & Spa’s two 18-hole courses, located in Arnold Palmer’s home-town region, the Laurel Highlands.

If you love mountain resorts with numerous outdoor recreational facilities, check out the Pocono region in the north-eastern corner of the state. If, on the other hand, you’re keen to really get back to nature, head for the northcentral Pennsylvania Wilds, encompassing 10,000 square miles of mountains and forests.

Among the region’s attractions are the 1,000 ftdeep, 55 mile-long Pine Creek Gorge, known as ‘Pennsylvania’s Little Grand Canyon’, and Cook Forest, a National Natural Landmark where you can ice skate, snowmobile, cross-country ski, and stay overnight in a cosy, rustic cabin.

Of particular note is the region’s 127-milelong Elk Scenic Drive, offering sightings of Pennsylvania’s herd of majestic elk.

If you are more into flora than fauna there also are beautiful gardens throughout the state, notably the Brandywine Valley’s magnificent, 1,000-acre Longwood Gardens, which celebrated its centennial last year.

The state has a herd of majestic elk

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5 outdoor adventures

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Enjoy a sensational view of the Susquehanna River and the Pennsylvania Wilds by hanggliding just north of Lock Haven in Hyner View State Park.

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Camp out and stargaze from a mountain top in Cherry Springs State Park in north-central Pennsylvania. The area is so remote and the sky is so clear that this has been labelled ‘A Dark Sky Preserve’.

3

Relive the decisive Civil War battle of Gettysburg on horseback with the aid of an audio tour.

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Take a walk on the wild side along the Pennsylvania Wilds’ 19-mile Elk Hiking Trail.

It’s home to black bear, coyotes, and bobcats but, most notably, a herd of elk that are most easily viewed near Dents Run.

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Cast your line for wild brown trout into one of the state’s limestone streams.

GATEWAY FROM THE UK AND IRELAND: US Airways (www.usairways.com) offers daily flights year-round from London Gatwick and Manchester and a seasonal service from Glasgow. British Airways (www.ba.com) links London Heathrow with Philadelphia. US Airways flies from Dublin and Shannon direct to Philadelphia from May to October.

Mary Moore Mason, the American-born, London-based editor of Essentially America magazine, enjoys the enticements and eccentricities of the state where her ScotchIrish ancestors first settled in the USA.

Vibrant, handsome Philadelphia, America’s fifth largest city, effortlessly blends the 17th/18th-century charm of historic neighbourhoods with the 21st-century energy and imagination of its music, film and arts scenes.You can attend a concert of the world-renowned Philadelphia Orchestra – or a late-night gig featuring the cutting-edge rhythm and blues music now known as ‘the Philly Sound’; spend an afternoon admiring the masterpieces in the Philadelphia Museum of Art – or take a tour of the city’s amazing array of contemporary murals; visit such historic attractions as Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell – or go on a treasure hunt of sites featured in the Rocky films, Witness, Philadelphia and The Sixth Sense; enjoy a traditional Philadelphia cheese steak in the Reading Terminal Market – or sample some of America’s most creative cuisine in one of the city’s numerous exciting new restaurants.

In the midst of all this urban activity there are great outdoor retreats such as Fairmount Park, the largest landscaped urban park in the USA; America’s oldest zoo; 36 beautiful public gardens and the scenic rivers, beloved by both boaters and spectators, particularly during the Schuylkill River’s annual, early October dragon boat races.

Founded as a fort and then a frontier settlement in the 1760s, Pittsburgh first achieved international prominence in the 19th century, when civic leaders and philanthropists such as Andrew Carnegie transformed it into an industrial boomtown and cultural centre.

Therefore, its most notable architecture ranges from opulent Victorian to the cluster of glass and steel towers gracing its ‘Golden Triangle’.

Attractions include the Andy Warhol Museum, devoted to the work of the Pittsburgh-born pop artist, the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, with its famed and expanding Dinosaur Hall, the Carnegie Museum of Art, the world-renowned Pittsburgh Symphony and the Heinz Hall for the Performing Arts.

wisconsin

Wisconsin A Superior experience

Whether you are a city lover or an outdoors adrenalin junkie, you will find it hard to get away from water in Wisconsin. The state boasts 15,000 lakes including two of the Great Lakes – Michigan to the east and Superior to the north. The mighty Mississippi River marks the western border with Minnesota Wisconsin State Facts Lake Superior’s 22 Apostle Islands are renowned for their sea-caves, beaches and hiking trails

State Capital: Madison Population: 5,453,450 Size: 56,138 square miles Nicknames: The Badger State Time of Statehood: May 29, 1848

www.travelwisconsin.com

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l The Lake Michigan town of Two Rivers claims to be the birthplace of the ice cream sundae in 1881. l The old logging town of Hayward in northern Wisconsin

stages the Lumberjack World Championships every summer. l The world’s largest collection of circus wagons is on show at the Circus World Museum at Baraboo, hometown of the Ringling Brothers.

l See all 15 species of crane at The International Crane Foundation in south-central Wisconsin. The 100-acre wetland site close to Wisconsin Dells is dedicated to preserving these magnificent and endangered birds.

isconsin is a wonderful blend of agriculture, cosmopolitan centres and pristine natural recreation areas. Visitors who want to take it easy can saunter along quiet back roads among lush, rolling countryside where red barns, tall silos and village stores epitomise rural America. For those keen on upping the pace, there is a huge variety of activities on offer.

Door County, 117 miles north of Wisconsin, has a strong maritime flavour. Dubbed “Wisconsin’s New England”, this 75-mile long peninsula jutting out into Lake Michigan boasts more lighthouses and miles of shoreline than any other county in the US. White-steeple churches, wooden houses and manicured village greens abound in picturesque fishing communities with quaint names such as Egg Harbor and Fish Creek. Popular activities include sailing and scuba diving.

The Wisconsin Dells, north of Spring Green, is one of the state’s most popular tourist haunts.

Visitors come year round to admire the spectacular sandstone cliffs soaring over the Wisconsin River and to enjoy a large array of water parks, golf courses, gokart tracks and other attractions. South of the Dells is the spectacular House on the Rock, an architectural marvel that will take your breath away. The 14-room house, perched on a 60-foot chimney of rock, was begun in the 1940s and is now the centre-piece www.greatlakesnorthamerica.co.uk

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Historic buildings have been beautifully preserved on the Milwaukee Riverfront

adventures

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Spot wild turkeys, Canada geese and sandhill cranes along the Ice Age Trail, a hiking route that stretches for more than 600 miles from Green Bay to the St Croix River on Wisconsin’s western border.

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Go snowmobiling in northern Wisconsin, where the form of transport was invented in 1924. St Germain is home to the Snowmobile Racing Hall of Fame, while Eagle River hosts the World’s Championship Snowmobile Derby every winter.

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Shoot the rapids on a white-water rafting trip down the Wolf River.

Sail or kayak among the pretty coves and bays of Door County.

Cool off by floating gently down the Apple River in central Wisconsin. The tiny community of Somerset dubs itself the Tubing Capital of the World.

GATEWAY FROM THE UK: Chicago and Minneapolis/Saint Paul – both only a one-hour drive from Wisconsin – are the nearest international gateways.

Minneapolis/Saint Paul is served by Northwest Airlines (www.nwa.com) from London Gatwick, Icelandair (www.icelandair.co.uk) from Heathrow, Glasgow and Manchester via Reykjavik, and KLM (www.klm.com) from Heathrow and regional airports via Amsterdam.

Chicago is served directly

by BA, United, bmi or American Airlines.

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of an extraordinary 200-acre complex of rooms, buildings, streets and gardens.

A more genteel resort in summer is Lake Geneva, near the Illinois border south-west of Milwaukee.

Elegant waterfront mansions dating from the early 20th century are best viewed from a pleasure cruise or from the 21-mile footpath circling the lake.

For a true getaway, head for the wilderness of northern Wisconsin – a remote area of pristine lakes, rivers, waterfalls and forests. Here, lovers of the outdoors can choose from a wide variety of activities ranging from sailing and mountain biking in summer to ice fishing and cross-country skiing in winter.

Lake Superior’s 22 Apostle Islands, for example, are renowned for sea caves, beaches, hiking trails and yacht harbours. The islands are served by ferries from Bayfield, where costumed guides offer historic walking tours. Pick your own tasty snack at the many apple orchards and fruit farms in the hillsides around the town.

Hayward, south-east of Superior, is home to the National Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame – proof that Wisconsin offers rich catches for anglers.

London-based travel writer Howard Carr first visited Wisconsin 21 years ago.

He enjoyed the beer and cheese so much that he’s made several return trips.

Good fishing spots abound at rivers and lakes throughout the state. Every year Wisconsin’s anglers reel in 750,000 walleye, 163,000 lake trout, 360,000 salmon and 139,000 rainbow and brown trout, as well as millions of perch.

The most famous of the state’s rivers, of course, is the Mississippi. The Great River Road, which passes through pretty towns nestled among majestic bluffs, has been named one of the most scenic drives in the country. River cruises on classic paddlesteamers are available from La Crosse.

Golfers also have plenty of opportunity to tee off in Wisconsin. Of nearly 500 courses throughout the state, 432 are open to the public. Perhaps the most prestigious course is Whistling Straits, at Kohler in the lakefront Sheboygan area between Milwaukee and Door County. Venue for the 2004 PGA Championship, it is due to host the tournament again in 2010 as well as the Ryder Cup in 2020.

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fun things to do in milwaukee and madison

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Find out what made Milwaukee famous by taking a tour of the city’s giant Miller brewery.

Experiment with the interactive science exhibits at Milwaukee’s latest attraction, Discovery World.

Admire the speed machines on show at the Harley-Davidson factory in Milwaukee.

Stock up for a picnic at the Saturday farmers’ market in Madison – one of the biggest in the US.

‘Walk on air’ in the Infinity Room, a 218ft-long shard of glass that juts out over the Wyoming Valley at the House on the Rock at Spring Green, near Madison.

M i lwau k e e a n d M adison

l Wisconsin’s largest city, Milwaukee, is e br set on Lake Michigan in the south-east corner of the state. Its beautiful lakefront is dominated by the futuristic, sail-like roof of the magnificent Milwaukee Art Museum and plays host to a variety of festivals throughout the year. Elsewhere, rejuvenation of areas such as the Third Ward – whose old warehouses are now home to theatres, galleries and trendy restaurants – helped Milwaukee to

The magnificent Madison skyline

be chosen by the US National Trust for Historic Preservation as one of a Dozen Distinctive Destinations for 2006. l Seventy-seven miles west of

Milwaukee, the pretty state capital of Madison is set on a narrow isthmus between two lakes. Students from the vast University of Wisconsin campus help

to give Madison an arty feel, with inviting bookstores and lively cafés lining the main square in the city centre. Robert Redford has chosen the city as the site for his first Sundance Cinema Centre. l Madison also has strong links with one of Wisconsin’s most famous sons, architect Frank Lloyd Wright. Although only completed in 1996, the city’s convention centre is based on a 1938 design by Wright. Visitors can also tour Taliesin, Wright’s home and studio at nearby Spring Green.

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Great Lakes of North America

View the Point in Pittsburgh before exploring the city’s culture

tour one The Great Lakes fly-drive 16 D a y s / 15 N i g h t s Gateway: Chicago

Grand Rapids 5

MINNESOTA

Minneapolis 3 4 Saint Paul

6 Bayfield

7 Marquette 8 9 St. Ignace WISCONSIN

of the best views of the city from the top of the Sears Tower Skydeck. In the afternoon Madison 2 MICHIGAN drive to Madison, the capital of Wisconsin, Detroit/ 10 PENNSYLVANIA 1 13 14 Dearborn 11 enjoying beautiful lakeside views along Cleveland 12 Chicago South Bend the way.

OHIO ILLINOIS Overnight: Madison, Wisconsin INDIANA

Day 1 ARRIVAL CHICAGO Transfer to your hotel and spend the afternoon discovering Chicago. This city offers excellent cultural and sports activities. This evening try a famous Chicago-style pizza and afterwards check out some of the many famous Chicago Blues and Jazz clubs.

Overnight: Chicago, Illinois

Day 2 CHICAGO TO MADISON 196 miles/312 km

Begin your morning with a walking tour of Chicago, Illinois, noted for its architecture, particularly around the area known as the Loop. En route, shop along the ‘Magnificent Mile’ of Michigan Avenue and stroll along the lakefront of Lake Michigan. Then take in one 28

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Day 3 MADISON TO MINNEAPOLIS/SAINT PAUL 270 miles/432 km

Continue your travels across Wisconsin, America’s freshwater playground, to the Twin Cities of Minneapolis and Saint Paul, Minnesota. Suggested stops along the way include Baraboo, where you can visit the Circus World Museum, and the resort towns of the Wisconsin Dells. Here boat and amphibious ‘duck’ tours of the Wisconsin River offer magnificent views of the Sandstone bluffs of the Lower and Upper Dells.

Overnight: Saint Paul, Minnesota

Day 4 MINNEAPOLIS/SAINT PAUL Take a morning tour to discover the unique attractions of the Twin Cities of Minneapolis

and Saint Paul and in the afternoon ‘shop ‘til you drop’ at Bloomington’s famous Mall of America. With more than 500 stores, 14 movie theatres, an amusement park, and Underwater Adventures, there will be no shortage of activities.

Overnight: Saint Paul, Minnesota

Day 5 MINNEAPOLIS/SAINT PAUL TO GRAND RAPIDS 173 miles/279 km

Travel north through the ‘Land of 10,000 Lakes’ to Grand Rapids, Minnesota. Nestled in tall timber on the western edge of the Mesabi Iron Range, the city was not only the birthplace of Judy Garland, but is rich with the dual heritage of iron-mining and logging.

Overnight: Grand Rapids, Minnesota

Day 6 GRAND RAPIDS TO bayfield 175 miles/280 km

Return to Wisconsin for Bayfield, the gateway to the Apostle Island National Lakeshore, a magnificent natural wilderness region. A cruise

great drives with

among the islands of Lake Superior, the largest body of fresh water in the world, will give you a memorable and lasting impression of this unspoiled area. Later, take a ferry to Madeline Island, the largest of the Apostle Islands, where you can tour the old trading post and Indian burial grounds.

Overnight: Bayfield, Wisconsin

Day 7 bayfield TO MARQUETTE 185 miles/298 km

Continue into Michigan and explore the picturesque Keweenaw Peninsula. See historic Fort Wilkens and visit the Delaware Copper Mine before travelling on, via the L’Ansse Indian Reservation, to Marquette.

Overnight: Marquette, Michigan

Day 8 MARQUETTE TO ST. IGNACE 162 miles/261 km

Follow scenic State Road 28 to Munising for a cruise past Lake Superior’s Pictured Rocks National Lake Shore with its sandstone cliffs, caves, arches and columns. Afterwards drive to Tahquamenon Falls State Park near Newberry, to view two striking waterfalls on the Tahquamenon River, and to Paradise where you can visit the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. The Whitefish Point Lighthouse in this Lake Superior ‘Graveyard of Ships’ is also open for tours. Then take State Route 123 to St. Ignace.

Overnight: St. Ignace, Michigan

nearby Dearborn, home of The Henry Ford, a living history museum which explores the industrial revolution and achievements of famous Americans such as the Wright Brothers and Thomas Edison.

Overnight: Dearborn, Michigan

Day 11 dearborn TO CLEVELAND 140 miles/225 km

Make your way to the ‘New American City’, Cleveland, and The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum. In the evening enjoy one of the many restaurants located in the riverside Flats.

Overnight: Cleveland, Ohio

Day 12 Cleveland to Pittsburgh 133 miles/214 km

Discover the cultural city of Pittsburgh, visit the Carnegie Museum of Art and Natural History, and the Warhol Museum. In the evening indulge in the cultural district’s many theatres.

Overnight: Pittsburgh

Day 13 Pittsburgh to Erie 128 miles/206 km

Travel along the Seaway Trail, stopping at the various wineries. End the day with the worldfamous sunset over Presque Isle.

Overnight: Erie

Day 14 erie TO SOUTH BEND 357 miles/574 km

Drive to Indiana, the ‘Hoosier State’, to visit the Northern Indiana Amish Community. Then continue to South Bend, home of worldfamous Notre Dame University and home to one of America’s great industrial legacies, the Studebaker Corporation.

Overnight: South Bend, Indiana

day 15 SOUTH BEND to chicago 99 miles/158 km

Stop at the pristine Indiana Dunes en route to Chicago. Spend your last afternoon shopping along State Street and Michigan Avenue before your final evening of exciting nightlife.

Day 9 ST. IGNACE Take the ferry to spend the day on Mackinac Island, a timeless resort island of the 19th century where no motor vehicles are allowed.

Take a horse-drawn carriage or rent bicycles.

Visit Fort Mackinac, perched on a bluff overlooking the harbour. Be sure to stop by the Grand Hotel to enjoy the magnificent view from the veranda. Return to St. Ignace in the late afternoon.

Overnight: St. Ignace, Michigan

Day 10 ST. IGNACE TO DETROIT 288 miles/461 km

Journey through Michigan to Detroit and the Motor City, USA, home of Motown. Stay in

Potato River Falls, Iron County, Wisconsin

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Great Lakes of North America

tour two Circle Lake Michigan Tour 11 D a y s / 10 N i g h t s Gateway: Chicago

MINNESOTA

Escanaba

6 Mackinac Island 5 Petoskey

7

Door County 8 9

Day 5

WISCONSIN

4

Milwaukee 10

2 1 11 Chicago

MICHIGAN

GRAND HAVEN TO PETOSKEY

Grand Haven PENNSYLVANIA

3 Elkhart

ILLINOIS

OHIO INDIANA

DAY 1 ARRIVAL CHICAGO Spend your first night at a resort in Chicagoland. Play a round of golf, enjoy a spa or try your luck at a casino.

Overnight: Chicagoland area

Day 2 CHICAGO Spend the day touring Chicago’s many attractions such as the Adler Planetarium and Astronomy Museum and the Field Museum, or take a Chicago Architecture Foundation cruise on the Chicago River.

Overnight: Chicago, Illinois

Day 3 CHICAGO TO ELKHART 96 miles/160 km

Travel through Northern Indiana and visit the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore Park. Then journey through the back roads to Amish Country.

Overnight: Elkhart, Indiana

Day 4 ELKHART TO GRAND HAVEN 128 miles/201 km

Depart for Holland, where proud Dutch heritage abounds. In May you’ll see millions of tulips in bloom in preparation for the annual Tulip Time Festival.

Continue to Saugatuck, a quaint artists’ community and the nationally recognised Oval Beach. A trip out on the Star of Saugatuck will offer you a view of the ghost town, Singapore. Downtown Grand Haven boasts unique shops and restaurants, as well as nightly summer performances of the ‘World’s Largest Musical Fountain’.

Overnight: Grand Haven, Michigan 30

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223 miles/359 km

Travel up the coast of Lake Michigan to Sleeping Bear Dunes, a picturesque National Park. Time permitting, take a side-trip along Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, near Empire, for a breathtaking view of Lake Michigan. The trip north on US-31 takes you through Elk Rapids, Charlevoix and Bay Harbor, a new community located on the southern shore of Little Traverse Bay. Then, take a quick jaunt to nearby Walloon Lake where Ernest Hemingway spent his childhood summers.

Overnight: Petoskey, Michigan

Day 6 PETOSKEY TO MACKINAC ISLAND 36 miles/58 km

As you head north, stop off for a visit in Harbor Springs. From here, the scenic M-119 ‘Tunnel of Trees’ brings you to Cross Village and the famed Legs Inn Restaurant, offering authentic Polish cuisine, unique architecture and spectacular views. Once you arrive in Mackinaw City, head for Mackinaw Crossings and Center Stage Theatre for a live performance. Walk Stop off at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park

the streets in search of maritime souvenirs and the ultimate sweet treat: Michigan fudge.

The Mackinac State Historic Parks operates three properties in Mackinaw City, including Mill Creek, Colonial Michilimackinac and Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse. Take a ferry to Mackinac Island, and enjoy a horse-drawn carriage ride.

Overnight: Mackinac Island, Michigan

Day 7 MACKINAC ISLAND TO ESCANABA 147 miles/235 km

Cross the famous Mackinac Bridge to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Rising nearly 200 feet above the ground is Castle Rock, offering magnificent views of the Straits of Mackinac.

The Museum of Ojibwa Culture is a National Historic Landmark portraying Native American life in this area more than 300 years ago. Travel through Gulliver to visit the ‘haunted’ Seul Choix Point Lighthouse & Museum and on to Garden to view the Fayette ghost town. In Escanaba, find out more about what inspired Michigan’s own Jeff Daniels to write, direct and star in Escanaba in da Moonlight, an hilarious film about local guys on a hunting trip.

Overnight: Escanaba, Michigan

Day 8 ESCANABA TO DOOR COUNTY 142 miles/227 km

Follow the 125 miles of shoreline around Menominee County. At the heart of the community of Menomonie’s historical downtown district is the Great Lakes Memorial Park Marina. It is dedicated to all sailors of the Great Lakes who have lost their lives since the Griffon, the first sailing vessel on the lakes, was lost on a voyage starting in Green Bay waters in 1679. As you cross the state line into Door County, you’ll be greeted by quaint communities with unique shops and exceptional restaurants. Stop by Al Johnson’s

great drives with

Swedish Restaurant in Sister Bay to see the goats grazing on the grass roof. Door County is also home to several wineries and tasting rooms.

Overnight: Door County, Wisconsin

Fishermen at dawn on Lake Michigan

Day 9 DOOR COUNTY Spend the day relaxing and exploring the quaint harbour towns of Door County, where you’ll find more miles of shoreline, more lighthouses and more state parks than any other county in the nation. No trip here would be complete without the experience of a fish boil. This tradition dates back to the Scandinavian settlers and lumberjacks, and features whitefish steaks, onions and potatoes in salted water boiled in a huge pot over an open fire.

104946 Road sgn adWisconsin 183x133 AW00 Overnight: Door County,

Day 10 DOOR COUNTY TO MILWAUKEE 170 miles/272 km

Follow the Lake Michigan shoreline south through Two Rivers – home of the ice cream sundae – to Manitowoc. A visit to the Wisconsin Maritime Museum offers you a chance to tour an actual submarine, the SS Cobia. In Milwaukee, try one of the ethnic neighbourhood restaurants 15/09/05 PM The Page 1 in the ‘City of4:15 Festivals’. two biggest names

in Milwaukee are Harley-Davidson and Miller Beer. Harley-Davidson’s history dates back to 1903, when the first motorcycle built by William S. Harley and Arthur Davidson rolled out. Miller Brewing Company offers a free plant tour which provides an up-close look at the brewhouse, packaging centre and historic caves.

Overnight: Milwaukee, Wisconsin

Day 11 MILWAUKEE TO CHICAGO 92 miles/147 km

As you head south toward the ‘Windy City’, be sure to stop off in Racine and Kenosha before crossing the state line into Illinois. If shopping is your bag, plan a visit to Gurnee Mills Mall, a shopping destination located next to Six Flags Great America.

Or, stop in Woodfield, ‘Chicago’s City in the Suburbs’, for a world-class shopping experience, before arriving at Chicago O’Hare to depart for home.

It’s Time for a Roadtrip!

Great cars and low rates from Hertz.

Get these great rates today at www.hertz.co.uk Prices shown are based on a weekly prepaid (World On Wheels) rental booked online for pick-up in October 2005. Prices are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change without notice. Vehicle makes and models shown are for illustration only. A similar specification vehicle may be offered instead.

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