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FROM THE EDITOR
CONTENT Teri Williams Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net
TERI’S TAKE There are differences between Culinary Chefs and Pastry Chefs, and there are specializations within the pastry chef field. Some Pastry Chefs specialize in baking bread and breakfast pastry (like Tarit Tanjasiri, who is featured in our Chef de Cuisine section this issue,) while others are master cake designers or dessert makers. Each specialized field requires an exceptional level of creativity and attention to detail. We’ve delved into some of those divisions here at Great Taste in our Jan/Feb. Issue. We’ve got layers of flavor, spoonfuls of delights and flaming hot desserts for you to discover. Explore decadent desserts like the tiramisu from Chef Jamon at Aveo at the Monarch Beach Resort that’s paired with an exclusive sip of Mount Gay 1703 Master Select. Chef Jessica from Puesto Mexican Artisan Kitchen introduces us to a dairy-free, Nopales and Lime Gelato that we just had to share with you, and Chef Alex from Roe tells us about his transition from Sous Chef to Pastry Chef. Here’s what we learned from operators: horchata is landing in many desserts and dessert cocktails. Everyone loves the up-sell, just not the hard-sell. Training the front-of-the-house team is imperative, and servers love upselling incentives. Last, but not least, dessert cocktail creations and sales are on the rise.
F E AT U R E S
D E PA R T M E N T S
12 DECADENT DESSERT
4 PRODUCE PICK
DISCOVERIES
Bergamot Sour Orange
5 CHEESE PICK
Universal Favorites
21 MEET OUR CHEF
Fiscalini San Joaquin Gold
DE CUISINE
6 ANNIVERSARY
Tarit Tanjasiri
Celebrate Bistango
8 SEA FARM TABLE
Chef/Proprietor Crema Cafe & Crema Artisan Bakers
THE BIZ 24 MARKETING Upselling & Incentives
Spring Sweetness
RECIPES 23 BUTTER CROISSANT By Chef Tanjasiri
25 RAISING THE BAR Dessert Cocktails
26 VIN Noble Rot
CROISSANT LOAF “I love a fresh warm croissant in the morning with my coffee. In fact, that was one of my inspirations for getting into this business years ago. My latest obsession is my newly created Croissant Loaf. Who has the time or a great French bakery near their house, right? I make this loaf with strips of braided Croissant dough, and top it off with some crumble. It is beautiful, and when sliced and oven-toasted you get a best of both worlds: the taste and texture of a croissant, and the convenience of a loaf of bread in your refrigerator. Try it; you’ll like it.” — CHEF TARIT TANJASIRI
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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PU B LIS H E R CH IE F E DITO R PRO PRIE TO R Teri Williams
E DITO RIAL CHIEF EDITOR Teri Williams teri@great-taste.net CONTRIBUTORS Chef Gabriel Caliendo Frankie Di Iorio Alyson Dutch Sonya Kelsen Amanda Lara Kristine Schneider
PRODUCE PICK
SOUR ORANGE THE BERGAMOT SOUR ORANGE IS A PUCKERY RELATIVE of the sweet variety of orange that we know so well. Known for its bitter, tart flavor profile, its origins root back to the Italian city Bergamo, and other areas of the Mediterranean. This citrus is usually not consumed raw. It is primarily used for the oil or essence, the main ingredient in Earl Gray tea. Chefs utilize all parts of this bumpy orange: the zest for pasta, the juice for protein marinades, and the flesh for tarts and pies. Other ways to prepare the Bergamot orange include salting and coating it in chili paste, transforming it into marmalade, or incorporating the oil of the peels into baked goods and candy. Delicious wine and beer pairings for this orange are fruity whites (such as a Sémillon Chardonnay), a Pale Ale or Pilsner. The Produce Hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com.
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ART ART DIRECTION | GRAPHIC DESIGN Lisa Brink thebrinkcreative@gmail.com PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com
ADVE RT IS ING Advertising Sales Fred Burgess 714-960-0534 fred@great-taste.net GREAT TASTE MAGAZINE 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 PHONE 714-960-0534 FAX 714-475-5869 EMAIL info@great-taste.net WEB www.great-taste.net
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CHEESE PICK
FISCALINI SAN JOAQUIN GOLD CREATED BY FISCALINI FARMS OF MODESTO, this cheese, similar to Fontina or Gouda, is named after California’s Central Valley, the heart of much of the country’s produce and dairy. The Fiscalini’s created this cheese using inspiration from their Swiss heritage. The cheese is firm and grainy, with a pleasant balance between buttery and acidic. It is aged 12-16 months, to further develop its nuttiness. Made with cow’s milk from the Fiscalini dairy farm, it has a thin, natural rind that turns golden with age. This cheese is best appreciated raw on its own or accompanied by fruits like apricots, apples, or grapes, along with a fresh baguette of bread. It is also a perfect candidate for mac n’ cheese, creamy soup, or on a burger. It pairs fantastically with a rich red, Riesling, or Prosecco. For more information about Fiscalini’s San Joaquin Gold, and other cheeses, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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Happy Anniversary Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries. Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net, and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.
In the restaurant business, making it to that one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment. In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and applauded for their outstanding food and service. Congratulations! It’s a milestone birthday. 30 YEARS
B I S TA N G O WHEN DID THE RESTAURANT OPEN? 1987 HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DOES THE RESTAURANT CURRENTLY HAVE? 80 TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE POPULARITY OF THE RESTAURANT? Continued use of only the highest ingredients (meats and produce) TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE LONGEVITY OF THE RESTAURANT? Remaining current with dining trends and exceeding our guest’s expectations
THE MENU TODAY? Sweet Garlic Soup and Chilean Sea Bass
WHAT MAKES YOUR RESTAURANT UNIQUE? An ever-evolving menu, a location in one of OC’s iconic buildings, rotating art exhibits, and Bistango Gardens
HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? We will be introducing some of our specials to commemorate the milestone and harken back to 1987 for special promotions
ARE THERE ANY ORIGINAL DISHES THAT ARE STILL ON
DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS IN THE WORKS FOR CHANGES
OR EXPANSION? Each summer we modify Bistango gardens. This year we will offer private cabanas, live entertainment, and new menu items
MAKE CONTACT BISTANGO 19100 Von Karman Ave., Irvine CA
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GENERAL MANAGER: Ray Sanii EXECUTIVE CHEF: Javier Montoya
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AN BAK
17815 Skypark Circle Suite L, Irvine, CA 92614 (949) 65-BAKER Wholesale@CremaArtisan.com CremaArtisan.com
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CremaArtisanBakers
Wholesale PASTRIES, DESSERTS, & BREADS Crema Artisan specializes in hand crafted laminated morning pastries, scones, desserts and artisan breads for hotels, restaurants, cafes and caterers. No compromises are made when it comes to our ingredients and process to make our product. Contact us and taste the difference. Crema Artisan proudly uses King Arthur Flour. We always appreciate the knowledge and support from our partners.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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SPRING…HOW SWEET IT IS!
by Gabriel Caliendo
SPRINGTIME IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA IS A GREAT TIME. We all hope for some rain, or the last shot at some local snow in the mountains. Our beach communities feel closer to our coveted summertime, and all around the sweet smell of blossoms fill the air. In spring citrus fruits are at their peak, and a new round of blossoms and flowers start to emerge while the fruits from last year become fully mature. I love chocolate; I love peanut butter; I love crumbles and cobblers of stone fruit. But my favorite dessert by far is anything tangy and citrusy, like key lime or lemon meringue pie. It was the spring of 2017 when I was first inspired to design a lemon-based dessert for our menu at Lazy Dog. We have had citrus-based desserts in the past, and usually I try to time them to a spring or summer menu. This time I wanted to do something we hadn’t done before, and so the journey began. After creating, tasting, and evaluating several desserts, we all decided it was the seven-layer cake — my take on the classic lemon blueberry combo with an added benefit: it qualifies for our gluten-sensitive menu! The cake, based on an almond flour recipe with vanilla bean with layers of frosting that is a true buttercream has sharp lemon notes. For service, each cake slice is plated in a pool of house-made lemon curd and huckleberry puree and topped with vanilla bean hand-whipped cream. The seven-layer lemon cake debuts in our test store in Brea in February and — if all goes well — company-wide in March. Another ingredient that inspires me in the spring is orange blossom water. Nothing is more enjoyable than a walk in an orange grove during full blossom. The aromas — of man! Using orange blossom water in cocktails is a fantastic mixer and adds a floral aroma unmatched by any orange flavored spirit or cordial. One of my favorite and simple cocktail recipes is a mix of vodka, orange blossom water, orange juice, orange blossom honey, rosé wine and an egg white. Shake hard with ice and pour into a chilled coupe glass and garnish with a fresh orange peel. Enjoy!
LAZY DOG RESTAURANT & BAR VP of Research & Development, Corporate Executive Chef HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 25 years. FAVORITES: BEER Sculpin IPA. WINE Inkblot Petite Verdot. COCKTAIL Lemon Verbena & crushed Oranges with Vodka.
Gluten-Sensitive Lemon Cake Lemon buttercream, almond flour vanilla cake, Huckleberry sauce, lemon curd, house-made whipped cream. Photo Credit: Rebecca Simms
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ADVENTURES IN DESIGN www.TheBrinkCreative.com contact LISA BRINK at TheBrinkCreative@gmail.com 562-201-0553
branding logos advertising menus brochures websites magazines signage posters invitations packaging JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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IN MEMORIAM fifi chao SHIRLEY JEAN (FIFI) CHAO, the beloved restaurant columnist, passed away in late 2017. Fifi was a pioneer in her field, as the first restaurant journalist for Orange Coast magazine. She also reviewed restaurants in the Orange County Business Journal beginning in 1990, all the way through to her retirement 26 years later. The legacy of her restaurant, wine, and travel newsletter “Chao’s Dinesty,” is one of our delicious lasting memories. Fifi would often host evening dinners with her husband Patrick at local restaurants to entertain her guests while promoting her restaurateur friends’ businesses. Fifi’s dinners are legendary for their great food, great service, and great times. Everyone was made to feel at home when they dined with the Chao family. Fifi’s contagious sense of humor and ability to draw people in were always evident in all that she did. In addition to being a journalist, Fifi was a lecturer, author, teacher, radio personality and fantastic home cook. She was a loving wife, mother, grandmother and great-grandmother. She and her husband Patrick celebrated 55 years of marriage this past June. At the age of 81, after battling cancer for two years, Fifi Chao passed away at her home in Irvine. Orange County has lost one of its most beloved restaurant journalists, but she will always be a part of its history. Fifi and the small elf she carried on her shoulder that “made her do it” will certainly be remembered fondly.
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JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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Decadent Dessert Discoveries
A
rguably, dessert is a universal favorite end to any meal. From blue-frosted birthday cakes, to buckets of Halloween candy, sugar has always added something special to our days. With the creation of the internet, recipes for classic confections have grown ornate and lovely. Social media displays pictures of intricately detailed cookies and jars brimming with smores’-style milkshakes. No longer are we limited to the single scoop of after-dinner ice cream under mom’s watchful eye — why not have a strawberry-stuffed crêpe for lunch or a selection of sprinkle-studded doughnuts for breakfast? The versatility of sugary sweets has always allowed for a wide spread of options. But there’s been a shift in defining what a dessert is as well.
Champurrado, or Mexican hot chocolate, is traditionally made with corn flour, milk, and chili powder. A popular Korean dessert called patbingsu includes shaved ice and red beans, served alongside a variety of fruit and syrups. Most recently, the cookbook “Olives from Spain” introduced a selection of recipes for baked goods, all of which included black olives. Chefs across the globe have always experimented with all sorts of flavors — salty, spicy, & everything in between — to broaden the borders of dessert beyond something that is just sweet. In the following articles, Orange County restaurants stand at the forefront of reshaping, revitalizing, and redefining desserts. From Taco Rosa’s churros served with a chocolate sauce to Antonello and Sushi Roku’s “Flaming Hot” creations, to Farmhouse’s “Cheesy Good” platters, Orange County chefs are taking dessert beyond the boundaries of tradition and into the future.
Chef Jessica Scott Chef Jessica Scott has successfully earned a reputation within the dessert community with one astonishing dish after the next. The dessert she makes is unlike anything else in the industry and serves as a reminder that sweets don’t need to fit into a category. Although she respects the fundamentals of dessert, her work has evolved based on consumer demand. What she manifests is photo-worthy, irresistible in flavor, and clever in concept. Chef Jessica has taken on the dessert menu for all Puesto Mexican Artisan Kitchen locations, which further gives her the freedom to do what she does best. By showcasing her many talents, several opportunities have opened up for her. Her success as winner of Food Network’s Dessert Games, in addition to involvement in the Holiday Baking Championship, has made her a highly desired Chef.
JESSICA SCOTT, PASTRY CHEF Puesto Mexican Artisinal Kitchen Piñata Ice Cream Sundae Warm chocolate cake, horchata gelato and a chocolate “piñata”
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TRENDING
MARKETING DESSERT
JESSICA SCOTT, PASTRY CHEF Puesto Mexican Artisinal Kitchen Nopales and Lime Gelato and La Venenosa Punta Raicilla Nopales and Lime Gelato, tomatillo
COLLABORATING ON CREATIONS “TWO HEADS ARE BETTER THAN ONE,” as the adage goes. And some of the best creations coming through the kitchen door are dishes created through collaboration without the consequences that sometimes occur with too many cooks in the kitchen. Chef Jessica collaborated with Bobboi Natural Gelato company to create a deliciously refreshing gelato. She then teamed up with Lucien Conner, El Jefe/Operations Manager at Puesto Mexican Artisinal Kitchen to select an unusual pairing of La Venenosa Punta Raicilla a rare Agave based spirit. JESSICA SCOTT, PASTRY CHEF
WHAT WERE YOUR INSPIRATIONS FOR THE NOPALES AND LIME GELATO? I
recently visited Mexico City for the first time, and I had the opportunity to visit an amazing restaurant that served a Nopales sorbet. I loved how simple it was and how the savory flavor of the cactus in a sweet format ended the meal in just the most perfect way. I knew I wanted something like this on our menu since it reminded me of Mexico and the country’s ability to constantly change my dessert point-of-view.
DID YOU CONSIDER THAT IT WOULD WORK FOR AN AMUSE, INTERMEZZO AND DESSERT AS YOU WERE CREATING IT? It was not initially my first
thought, but after the final tasting, I quickly realized how much potential this product had. It can be used in different stages of dinner courses, or even as a component in sweet or savory dishes.
HOW DID YOU COME TO COLLABORATE WITH BOBBOI? Bobboi is a local
favorite in La Jolla, a town where I spend most of my time since our first location is there and where the partners of Puesto Mexican Artisinal Kitchen grew up. They introduced me to their product. Bobboi has some of the best gelato I’ve ever had, so when it came time to choose an Ice Cream or Gelato supplier, there was no one else with whom I’d rather work.
ANY TIPS FOR OTHER CHEFS COLLABORATING WITH ANOTHER BRAND? Be
genuine! You should only be collaborating with brands that you respect and that you’re excited about the working relationship. Be direct with your vision, be open to their expertise and opinions, and cross-promote as much as possible.
Chef Jessica’s Friday Dessert Days at Puesto Mexican Artisinal Kitchen are a touchstone way to keep guests interested in coming back for a novel dessert. The key focus is building customer loyalty. Having Chef Jessica and a personalized touch is an attractive feature. The menu is designed to establish regulars that continue to look forward to Friday Dessert Days. The limited nature of the desserts makes them more valuable to customers because they’re not available on the general menu. She serves one-night-only, interactive dessert specials such as the chocolate “piñata” that she cracks tableside, or a Mexican hot chocolate cake with a tableside-toasted corn marshmallow.
DO YOU THINK MORE PEOPLE ARE ORDERING DESSERT AT RESTAURANTS IN GENERAL? I think that people are order-
ing more desserts, but for different reasons than just wanting something sweet at the end of the meal. I think that our society is becoming more adventurous and more curious about creative dishes and a lot of that has to do with social media. People now see how much work goes into every detail, and they feel more connected when they discover something on social media and then get to try the dish themselves. ARE MORE PEOPLE ORDERING DESSERT AT PUESTO MEXICAN ARTISINAL KITCHEN? Yes, and it is so exciting! Mex-
ican food sometimes gets a bad reputation perceived as only casual, and as for dessert — it hasn’t always been so exciting. I am lucky enough to have total creative freedom at Puesto Mexican Artisinal Kitchen, and I believe that our customers have grown to trust my creations and are more willing to splurge when they know that the extra cost is worth it.
HOW DO YOU SUGGEST THAT RESTAURANTS INCREASE THEIR DESSERT ORDERS? Your front-of-the-house team JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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has all the power! These are the people who guide the customers into having a full experience from drinks to appetizers to entrées to desserts. Constantly testing them on their knowledge of the product, conducting server contests, and tracking their sales are all techniques used to hold our staff up to our expectations, so that each guest gets the same great experience as the next.
tum of that first bite. It’s the first crack of a crème Brûlée; it’s the fire of a Baked Alaska or even the mixing of table-side guacamole. I have always seen dessert as my way to connect to people, and when I get the chance to meet guests and be a part of that experience — it’s fulfilling as a chef and truly memorable to the guest. Real life is happening before you have the chance to post it!
DOES YOUR RESTAURANT GIVE INCENTIVES TO SERVERS FOR SELLING DESSERTS? We do! Each location differs
WHAT DESSERT DISHES DO YOU SEE BECOMING MOST POPULAR AT PUESTO MEXICAN ARTISINAL KITCHEN? The
from time to time depending on what works best for their area. One location might see that a certain dessert isn’t getting enough attention and decide that whoever sells the most of that dish for a week will receive an incentive, or another location will use the same tactic for one day during a dessert special.
WHAT DESSERT DISHES DO YOU SEE BECOMING MORE POPULAR NATIONWIDE? I would love to see more dishes
that are more interactive. I feel that when a dish incorporates a component that makes eating more of an experience, it’s exciting and almost builds up the momen-
desserts becoming more popular at Puesto Mexican Artisinal Kitchen are our allergy-friendly desserts. Why do gluten-intolerant guests have to eat something filled with potato starch and rice flour? I stick with components that have always been gluten-free to have a genuine product that isn’t forced, like caramel corn and cocoa almond crisps. Our Nopales and Lime Gelato is vegan-friendly but is so smooth that you’d think there was dairy in it. Soon to be on our menu will be a dairyfree Banana Cream Pie — simply made with banana cream topped with blueberry meringues.
CHEF JAMON COLLABORATED with Jenifer Jaber and Sibyl Galindo, Remy Cointreau USA and pairs his take on tiramisu with Mount Gay rum. Since coming to Monarch Beach Resort two years ago, Chef Jamon (who was born in Barbados) has initiated and developed a great relationship with Mount Gay.
JAMON HARPER, EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF Monarch Beach Resort AVEO Tiramisu and Mount Gay small-batch Black Barrel or 1703 Master Select Pistachio biscotti crisp, brown butter caramel sauce
Churro
The churro is a fried-dough pastry based snack. Churros are traditional in Spain and Portugal as well as the Philippines and Ibero-America. Churros can either be thin (and sometimes knotted) or long and thick, where, in some regions, they are called porras. Most often they are sprinkled with sugar and eaten for breakfast dipped in champurrado, hot chocolate, or café con leche. Wikipedia
IVAN CALDERON, CHEF Taco Rosa Churros Coloniales Frittery pastry dusted with cinnamon and piloncillo served with chocolate sauce
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DOUGH FOR DOUGH COUNTRYMEN ALL OVER THE WORLD are interpreting variations of deep-fried dough desserts and creating their own signature versions. Some of these airy, light puffs include a coating or glaze, some get stuffed, and dipping sides accompany others. But one thing is for sure: these addicting little treats are always a hit. From the Greek loukoumades, the French beignet to the Native American fry bread, the Italian zepole, and the Mexican sopapilla; well, you get the point, the list is extensive. Here’s a bit more about these obsession-worthy bites that we love. PROFIRIO GOMEZ, CHEF
WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO KEEP THE WARM CINNAMON BEIGNETS ON THE MENU? When we first introduced
them to our menu, the positive reaction from our guests was incredible. DESCRIBE THE TEXTURES OF THE PERFECT BEIGNET? Light and pillowy, crisp
on the outside and fluffy on the inside. Always hot!
DO YOU THINK MORE PEOPLE ARE ORDERING DESSERT AT RESTAURANTS?
We do. There are new options that are not your typical “heavy” desserts and a perfect way to end a meal.
DOES YOUR RESTAURANT GIVE INCENTIVES TO SERVERS FOR SELLING DESSERTS? We do have incentives for
many of our menu items. It is a great way to get our team motivated to introduce specific items to our guests.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE DESSERT TO EAT? Anything sweet and savory. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE DESSERT TO MAKE? Chocolate mint brownies. WHAT IS THE MOST DELICIOUS DESSERT THAT YOU HAVE EVER MADE?
Peach cheesecake stuffed beignets. WHAT DESSERTS DO YOU SEE BECOMING MORE POPULAR NATIONWIDE?
Beignet Beignet (ben-YAY), synonymous with the English "fritter" is the French term for a pastry made from deep-fried choux pastry. Other types of dough, including yeast dough, can be used to create the perfect Beignet. Wikipedia PORFIRIO GOMEZ, CHEF Andrei’s Conscious Cuisine Warm Cinnamon Beignets Fried and dusted with cinnamon and sugar, served with homemade cinnamon whipped cream and fresh strawberries
Spirited Milkshakes.
ARE MORE PEOPLE ORDERING DESSERT AT ANDREI’S? Yes, we try to focus
on seasonal desserts that tempt our guests. We also feel that guests enjoy our nostalgic desserts with a new twist.
HOW DO RESTAURANTS INCREASE THEIR DESSERT ORDERS? By changing
their menus and featuring new flavors and ingredients to entice guests. Training staff is another great way: the more they know about the desserts and their flavors, the more likely they are to recommend them. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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5 to 10 varieties. ARE THERE SPECIFIC FLAVOR PROFILES THAT YOU CREATE? Absolutely.
We like to create a classic trio that incorporates a graduated favor profile that goes from mild to medium intensity. We typically incorporate a goat’s milk, a cow’s milk and a rich blue cheese.
HOW MANY CHEESES GROUP? We usually have
CECIL KEPNER, GM AND CHEESE EXPERT Farmhouse LEFT TO RIGHT Auchenblae Creamy, soft, blue molded cheese produced with the highest quality pasteurized cow’s milk from the foot of the Bavarian Alps Alpenblumen Firm but creamy gruyere style cheese from cow’s milk produced in Austria and covered with local, edible flowers Leonora Dense and smooth, made from the pasteurized milk of Alpine goats and produced in the mountainous region of Leon in northwestern Spain
CHEESY GOOD ONE COMFORTING FACT about cheese is that thanks to all the varieties available, it takes a whole lot to be “cheesed out.” Due to a blend of culture, tradition, and resources, creameries will continue to produce a variety of cheeses. Why not have cheese for dessert? It’s artful and original; no cheese board will ever be exactly alike. When a guest orders a cheese board, a few standards are becoming more commonly anticipated: the cheeses must vary in flavor, consis16
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tency, texture, shape, density, and moisture. Small sides can accompany cheese, including; salted almonds or other nuts, jams and jellies, crisp and tart fruits, infused honey, or coarse salt. A cheese board welcomes a carbohydrate, like rye or rosemary crackers, a fresh baguette of French bread, or a crusty loaf of Sourdough. CECIL KEPNER, CHEESE EXPERT
HOW MANY CHEESES DO YOU HAVE ON HAND? We can have anywhere from
IN
EACH
a few Goat from the Loire Valley. One of our favorites is Chabichou: traditional, soft, unpasteurized, natural-rind French goat cheese with a firm, creamy texture. Another goat’s milk cheese we have had on hand is Sainte-Maure from the province of Touraine. The Sainte-Maure is aged 3-5 weeks. When available we have added Fleur de Marquis from Corsica. This sheep’s milk cheese is semi-soft and covered in rosemary. Our selection of Blues has included Fourme d’Ambert from Auvergne, Auchenblae: creamy, soft blue mold cheese produced with the highest quality pasteurized cow’s milk from the foot of the Bavarian Alps and Gorganzola Guffant from Italy. A seasonal cheese is our Brie A LA TRUFFE from Maison de la TRUFF: cow’s milk with black truffle, from France. Another delicious triple cow’s milk cheese we love is Brillat-Savarin from Burgundy, Normandy. DESCRIBE
THE
ACCOUTREMENT:
Lightly toasted bread from Rye Goods Co. accompanies each cheese board along with nuts, fresh and dried fruit and seasonal chutney. WHAT PERCENTAGE OF GUESTS THAT DINE ORDER DESSERT? 75% OF THOSE, HOW MANY ORDER THE CHEESE? 15% and 5% order both cheese
and dessert.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE CHEESE AND BEVERAGE PAIRING? With our
Cheese Trio, my favorite pairing would be our Drappier Brut Rosé from Reims. WHERE DO YOU SOURCE CHEESE? The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills.
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CREATE A CRUST
MIKE GRANT, CHEF/PROPRIETOR Coastal Kitchen S’mores Pie Chocolate custard, marshmallow meringue, graham cracker crust
A PERFECT CRUST is all about method and ratio. The texture of a crust is determined by the preference of the maker. The crust is never the spotlight of a dessert. However, an exceptional one can elevate a dish from mediocre to fantastic. Crucial considerations that make a satisfying product include different amounts of flour, shortening (or another fat source), salt, water, or including milk or sugar. The pliability of raw crust allows for creativity, leading to fun with lattices, twists, pinches, and shapes. Exploring beyond the traditional crust, the industry has expanded to including dessert crusts that emphasize a cookie or crumb foundation. Being imaginative with crust can help to make a dessert that will be distinctive from all other crust-related treats. MIKE GRANT, CHEF/PROPRIETOR
DESCRIBE THE FLAVORS AND TEXTURES YOU LOOKED TO ACHIEVE WHEN CREATING THE S’MORES PIE?
Velvety chocolate, gooey meringue, crunchy honey graham crackers. We wanted the roasted marshmallow flavor to be obvious. We achieve this by making a marshmallow meringue and roasting each piece of pie to order with a torch. The graham cracker flavor comes through in our homemade graham cracker crust. USUALLY, S’MORES IS EXTREMELY SWEET. IS YOUR S’MORES PIE AS SWEET? Desserts are sweet. Our S’mores
Pie is a rich dessert, but our chocolate filling has a salty and sweet flavor, so there is a balance.
DO YOU THINK MORE PEOPLE ARE ORDERING DESSERT AT RESTAURANTS IN GENERAL? I think about the same as
always or more depending on the restaurant. Guests like to splurge on freshly made desserts that they do not have the time to make at home! My wife loves to order dessert, and I can usually take it or leave it so of course we always order dessert.
ARE MORE PEOPLE ORDERING DES-
CATHY PAVLOS, CHEF/PROPRIETOR
LOUISE CHIEN, EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF
Provenance
Blackhouse Hospitality Group (Bluegold)
Apple Pie a la Mode on the Beach
Key LimePie
Caramelized Granny Smith Apples, Bour-
Creamy tart curd, meringue, candied ginger,
bon-Candied Pecan Sauce, Spiced Cookies, Car-
mint
amel, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Cinnamon Sand
SERT AT COASTAL KITCHEN? Our guests have always had a healthy appetite for our desserts. I just served a table of four regulars who came in for lunch and each ordered individual pieces of Key Lime Pie. HOW DO RESTAURANTS INCREASE THEIR DESSERT ORDERS? Make them
fresh and perfect! Focus on quality rather than quantity.
DOES YOUR RESTAURANT GIVE INCENTIVES TO SERVERS FOR SELLING DESSERTS? Only from the idea that a
great dessert is a perfect complement to a “food event” and a nice treat for themselves!
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE DESSERT TO EAT? Tres Leches at Gulfstream Restau-
rant in Newport Beach.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE DESSERT TO MAKE? Birthday cakes for my two chil-
dren.
WHAT IS THE MOST DELICIOUS DESSERT THAT YOU HAVE EVER MADE?
Tres Leches with fresh berries. WHAT IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL DESSERT THAT YOU HAVE EVER MADE?
German chocolate Black Forest Cake. WHAT DESSERTS DO YOU SEE BECOMING MORE POPULAR NATIONWIDE?
Beignets. WHAT DESSERTS DO YOU SEE BECOMING MOST POPULAR AT COASTAL KITCHEN? S’mores Pie is our signature,
but I do see an Old-Fashioned Chocolate Sheet Cake served à la mode with French Vanilla Ice Cream in our future.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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TRENDING
ALEX RUPERTO, PASTRY CHEF Roe Seafood Pecan Sans Rival Layers of crispy pecan dacquoise, pecan praline buttercream, and candied pecans come together to create a multi-textured masterpiece. Sans Rival is a Filipino dessert traditionally made with cashews, buttercream, and meringue. The dacquoise in Roe Seafood’s version is simply a meringue with nuts, baked until light and crispy. The pecan filling is made using Italian buttercream instead of the heavier French version using yolks, to help lighten the dessert.
LAYER IT UP NOT ONLY DO LOCAL CHEFS BUILD LAYERS of flavor, chefs are also creating desserts with layers upon layers. Alex Ruperto, the Pastry Chef at Long Beach sister restaurants Roe Seafood and Panxa Cocina, is a true jack-ofall-trades in the kitchen. When he first started working at Roe, he excelled as Sous Chef and soon discovered his true passion for pastry. As Pastry Chef, his beautiful desserts amaze and inspire, and he is a valued member of Chef Arthur Gonzalez’s team. Alex’s side project, Sakura Chocolates, allows him to dabble in artistic chocolate confections that are true masterpieces while continuing to create incredible desserts at Roe and Panxa. ALEX RUPERTO, PASTRY CHEF
DO YOU THINK MORE PEOPLE ARE ORDERING DESSERT AT RESTAURANTS IN GENERAL? I don’t think people are
ordering desserts as much anymore, especially in health-conscious California, which is why I try to offer lighter options.
ARE MORE PEOPLE ORDERING DESSERT AT ROE AND PANXA? Now that
I’ve had some time to dial in the menu (since Roe is a little over a year old), I do see a small uptick in dessert orders.
WHY DID YOU TRANSITION INTO PASTRY/DESSERT/CHOCOLATE COOKING FROM SAVORY COOKING? I’ve always
done pastry/desserts at most of the restau-
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rants I’ve worked in, so it wasn’t such a large leap. There’s something about the structure, science, and rigidity of the pastry world that I like. Pastry is a craft; it requires learning and producing consistently on a daily basis. WHY A CHOCOLATE COMPANY? I love chocolate. There’s something about working with chocolate that’s satisfying to me. So many steps go into making one bonbon, and if you miss a detail in any step, your chocolate will come out subpar. There’s nothing better than tempering a batch of chocolate and having it come out perfect. Perfect snap, perfect shine. I love making bonbons. It’s such a perfect self-contained vessel that delivers on taste, texture, and visual appeal.
WHAT DESSERT DISHES DO YOU SEE BECOMING MORE POPULAR NATIONWIDE? I think Asian influences in des-
serts, especially Filipino (I’m slightly biased), will grow in popularity. Lots of people use Japanese ingredients like yuzu, matcha, black sesame, etc. but I see the lesser-known Asian culinary traditions and techniques making an impact as well.
WHAT DO YOU FEEL IS THE MOST DELICIOUS DESSERT THAT YOU HAVE EVER MADE? I’m a big fan of sneaking
Filipino food into desserts, whether it’s ingredients or techniques. There’s a dessert called taho sold on the streets in the Philippines. It sounds weird to the uninitiated, but it’s fresh soft tofu, sugar syrup, and sago, which is large tapioca pearls. A guy walks around with a bucket of it around his shoulders and scoops the tofu into a cup and adds different accompaniments. So I made tofu from coconut milk, and I added a pandan leaf infused brown sugar syrup, some tapioca pearls and some condensed milk ice cream. It was a stunner.
IVAN CALDERON, CHEF Taco Rosa Quatro Leches A “four-milks” cake layered with strawberries and covered with white chocolate ganache
TRENDING
SPOONING GRAB YOUR SPOON and your imagination. Spoon-laden desserts can be a vessel for an unending list of ingredients and flavors. Though these dishes are well rooted in cultures from around the world, Chefs all over the globe are adapting rec-
ipes for today’s guests. They are adding more exciting spices than just salt and pepper. Fruits and vegetables are being worked in and used as toppings on these spoonful treats; sometimes elegant, often playful, and always delicious.
FAR LEFT CATHY PAVLOS, CHEF/PROPRIETOR Provenance Vanilla Bean Budino Passionfruit and Rhubarb Compote, Edible Flowers
JESSICA SCOTT, PASTRY CHEF Puesto Mexican Artisinal Kitchen Panna Cotta Mosaico Mexican crema panna cotta accented with passionfruit, fresh fruit coulis, prickly pear, lime and blueberry gelatinas
KARL PFLEIDER, CHEF Blind Pig It’s It Panna Cotta Inspired by SF’s famous ice cream cookie sandwich with granola and dark chocolate
FLAMING HOT FLAMBÉ MEANING “FLAMED” IN FRENCH is a cooking technique in which food has liquor added to it and, is set on fire creating a short burst of flames before being quickly extinguished. When the alcohol (flavored brandy, rum, cognac, etc.) is burned off, the flavor remains. Traditional tableside flambé includes Bananas Foster and Cherries Jubilee, but flambé also extends to tarts, brulée, and meringues. Tips to know about flambé: the alcohol content must be at least 40% ABV, and it will not light if the liquor is cold. Professionals warm it in a separate saucepan and then pour it over the dish to flambé. Very few restaurants practice the art of flambé, but Antonello excels at the craft. ANTONELLO RISTORANTE
WHAT ARE THE MOST POPULAR DESSERTS AT ANTONELLO? Flambé is one
of the Antonello’s hallmarks. Our flambé is particularly popular, including the crêpe Suzette and the Nutella Crêpe, as our guests love to see the dramatic performance that comes along with it. We usually have approximately seventeen dessert options available on the menu and get as many as forty dessert orders per day. HOW DO YOU SUGGEST INCREASING DESSERT ORDERS? Making sure the staff
knows the desserts thoroughly and can articulate the descriptions to the guests.
HAS ANTONELLO ALWAYS OFFERED FLAMBÉ? Yes HOW MANY ORDERS DO YOU GET FOR FLAMBÉ A DAY? On the weekend we
might sell as many as twenty.
DOES EVERY SERVER KNOW HOW TO FLAMBÉ OR DO YOU HAVE SPECIALISTS? All of our waiters know how to
Sushi Roku Carnival Cake “Our Carnival Cake is quickly becoming one of our most popular desserts! It features a decadent New York Cheesecake topped with vibrant strawberries surrounded by Cotton Candy”. The Cotton Candy is set on fire upon arrival to the table, creating a little show for the guest — the fuel for the flame is Don Q 151, which essentially burns away before the guest dives in.
flambé.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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TRENDING
RAYMUND ESQUERRA, PASTRY CHEF Hilton Anaheim Small Bites
photo by Michael Rutt
ONE BITE OR TWO?
ALEX RUPERTO, PROPRIETOR SakuraChocolates.com Assorted Chocolates High-quality chocolate is expensive because of the amount of detail and time needed at every step. Every mold must be hand polished twice. The colored cocoa butter and chocolate has to be at an exact temperature. The room shouldn’t be too warm or too cold or have too much humidity. The ganache filling must be made properly and be at the right temperature. You have to wait overnight for the ganache to crystallize before you cap them with properly tempered chocolate.
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www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018
WE’RE ALWAYS A BIT SAD to see a great meal come to a close, but the arrival of mignardises or other small bites help to lift our spirits. Mignardise, a one bite parting gesture from the kitchen—usually an artful arrangement of confections like gemlike pates de fruits, or tiny macarons—is a tradition that dates back to 18th-century France. Miniature sweets were de rigueur then: Once pastry chefs had finished their work for the day in their brick ovens, they placed small treats inside to bake in the low, residual heat. Nowadays, chefs dazzle us with their stunning array of after dinner sweets. Our favorites are the one or two bite wonders. High-end brunches are the perfect occasions to peruse delightful collections of sweets. It’s a great opportunity for pastry chefs to show off their skills and create a final impression that embodies the spirit of the restaurant.
CHEF DE CUISINE CH
*
RY
SP
* ORED B
Y
NS
O
Chef Tarit Tanjasiri
EF ST O
by FRANKIE DI IORIO
photo by Michael Rutt
R
ight after college, Chef Tarit Tanjasiri’s love for bread began when he worked at a take n’ bake pizza shop. Tasked with mixing the dough, he immediately found interest in the science of dough. However, to easy-going and fun-loving Tarit, becoming a baker with crazy hours and no vacation time did not initially seem appealing. Chef Tarit studied business and economics in college, and after his pizza job he moved to Hawaii to develop real estate. In Hawaii, he also worked in a Thai restaurant as a cook, waiter, bartender and every other position in the restaurant. In each new position he tackled, he discovered flaws in the systems, that he felt he could fix, were he in a management position. This new perspective gave Tarit a fresh outlook on the hospitality industry. Eventually, Chef Tarit’s experience, along with the influence of his many friends in the business convinced him to open a restaurant of his own. Tarit moved to Studio City and opened a coffee shop. Over the years, he opened several other businesses, and each had its own unique struggles. When Tarit took over Crema Cafe in Seal Beach in 2006, he finally found his fit. Inspired by his many trips to France (where Tarit fell in love with the vibe of the cafés as well as the high quality of the bread) Crema Cafe was born. Crema was created by Chef to fill a void in the market and bring the same quality of pastries to America. Crema Cafe began as a small bakery focusing on breakfast pastries and crêpes, but as its popularity grew, the need for expansion was clear. The first expansion allowed room for a full kitchen, and the second transformed the bakery into the lovely café, serving breakfast and lunch daily. Chef Tarit was not satisfied with the bread that he used in his café, so he began to make his own and found his true passion baking bread. After Tarit perfected his skills as a baker, he made his creations available for wholesale. Through mutual friends in the bread world Chef Tarit met fellow baker Chef Dean Kim and began a friendship and partnership to promote great bread and pastries to local restaurateurs, cafés and coffee shops. Both bakers are passionate and dedicated to improving the JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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CHEF DE CUISINE
culture surrounding bread in Southern California. They want to educate locals about different types of bread and different methods of baking so that more people can enjoy high-quality bread in their everyday lives. Tarit strongly believes in keeping bread simple by making it with high quality ingredients and using clas-
From the Chef’s Mouth CREMA CAFE 322 Main St., Seal Beach, CA www. thecremacafe.com 562.493.2501 ESTABLISHED May 1, 2006 HOURS 7 am – 3 pm AVERAGE COVER $17 CREMA ARTISAN BAKERS Irvine, Ca 949.652.2537 www.cremaartisanbakers.com 22
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sic techniques. His mission is to have customers be blown away by a simple croissant and cup of coffee from his café and others throughout the area. Judging by Crema Cafe’s steady customer base and the growth of his wholesale business, I think it’s safe to say that is exactly what he’s achieved.
CHEF TARIT TANJASIRI’S FAVORITES KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL My knife KITCHEN APPLIANCE Dough Sheeter COOKWARE Anything easy to clean CONDIMENT/SPICE Vanilla OC RESTAURANT Bluefin DISH TO EAT Sushi RAW INGREDIENT Toro FAST FOOD Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen TV PROGRAM Good Eats
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST HOSPITALITY JOB Patty’s Take & Bake Pizza
AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK 40-60
OTHER EDUCATION BA Economics, USC
1ST COOKING MEMORY Cooking with my dad in Thailand FIRST JOB Surf shop in Santa Monica
WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY Passion and the lifestyle YEARS OF CULINARY EDUCATION Thirty years on the job and courses at the French Pastry School in Chicago
IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE Surfer/Beach Bum CULINARY HERO Didier Rosada is my bread guru
CHEF DE CUISINE
Butter Croissant by CHEF TARIT TANJASIRI Yield: 1.800 Kg Dough, approx. 20 Croissants at 85 grams each DOUGH 1.048 Kg 0.241 Kg 0.295 Kg 0.013 Kg 0.136 Kg 0.005 Kg 0.021 Kg 0.042 Kg
Bread Flour (King Arthur AP) Cold Water (60F) Milk Dry instant yeast (gold) Sugar Diastatic malt Salt Butter (European style 83%)
EGG WASH 1 Egg - beaten together with egg yolk 1 Egg yolk - beaten together with egg 0.468 Kg Butter for Lamination TOOLS Plastic film wrap, Rolling pin and a ruler to give butter and dough the right shape DAY 1 Mix all of the dough ingredients in your stand mixer or home spiral mixer for 6-8 minutes on medium-low setting #3, until dough comes together nicely. Scrape down bowl at 4 minutes to get rid of any dry spots. Using a rolling pin, roll your dough into a rectangle 8” x 16” and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight. The dough will be stiff. DAY 2 Take one pound of butter out of the refrigerator and let sit on the counter for 30 minutes. Pound it down into an 8” x 8” square. Wrap it in plastic wrap and fold the wrap to roughly 8” x 8” square. Roll it with rolling pin until it is even and filled out the square. Butter should feel soft and pliable, but not melting. Refrigerate for 10 minutes if needed. Remove dough from the refrigerator. Lightly flour your count er and roll out dough again to roughly 8” x 16” getting rid of any air bubbles. Place soft, pliable butter on the bottom half of the dough. Fold dough over the top and seal the dough. You will now have 8” x 8” block of dough and butter. Roll the dough with short side towards you until it is 24” long by 8” wide. Fold 1/3 of dough from the right side over
the middle, then the left side over the top to achieve the first tri-fold. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Repeat this two more times to complete three tri-folds. Refrigerate for 1 hour to relax the dough. SHAPING Remove dough from the refrigerator. Lightly flour your counter and roll it out to roughly 3-4 mm (1/3”) thick. It is hard work, but it will be worth it. Cut dough into triangles with a sharp knife, alternating top and bottom to not waste any dough. Roll croissants, starting with the base (short side) toward you, all the way to the tip to form an even, straight-armed croissant shape. Press slightly at the tip to adhere and to make a slightly flattened base for the croissant to rest on. Make sure the tip is finished underneath the croissant so there will be no “tails” with your finished croissants. If you prefer the curved shape, draw the two ends together to form the crescent shape. PROOFING Preheat your oven to 380 degrees 30 minutes into your proofing time. Place shaped croissants on a sheet pan with parchment paper. Spread them out to approximately 4” apart. Very lightly dust the dough with flour and cover with plastic wrap. Place it in a warm area of your kitchen for 90 minutes or until it jiggles when you shake the baking sheet. BAKING Once the croissants are ready to bake, lightly and carefully brush them with egg wash, trying not to overdo it. Bake at 380F for approximately 15-18 minutes depending on your oven. CHEFS’ NOTES Use a digital scale for accuracy and scalability. Any scale can convert to Kg by changing the units. Work in a cold room that’s 65-70 degrees with a granite or marble countertop. Use the best ingredients. Including: Flour with a good amount of protein. Butter that has 82-83% butterfat content — higher is better. Instant dry yeast (gold label) It is an osmotolerant yeast that is designed to enrich the dough. EDITORS’ NOTE Consider ordering these from Tarit at Crema Artisan Bakers. It sounds like a long process. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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THE BIZ
MARKETING
Sugar Marketing
S
weet menu offerings on your menu can serve to create “stickiness,” a term which marketers define as the creation of a loyal returning customer base. Dessert trends seem to be leaning toward nostalgia. In a research survey*, doughnuts with non-traditional fillings are leading the charge with 64% of chef respondents loving the creations. Savory flavor profiles follow closely behind, which include an entire category of smoked dessert ingredients. Neck-inneck, is artisan/house-made ice cream. Nation’s Restaurant News reported that the top 2018 dessert trends include gluten-free options. Considering the dearth of food allergies in America today (F.A.R.E. estimates 15M Americans and 30% of children are affected by everything from peanuts to milk); gluten-free is a very good option to include. The question is: how are you going to utilize these trends in a way that attracts your customers like bees to honey? What opportunities exist for upselling your customers before they leave the table? As a restaurant-goer and in my food journalism experience, desserts seem to be a menu planning afterthought. To me, there is nothing more unappealing than yet another crème Brûlée. Though this very simple dessert can be profitable, it is truly the most unimaginative thing I can think of to see on a menu (if however, it is infused with something interesting, like lavender, or topped in a bacon sugar crust, I might change my mind.) Momorable desserts can be the sole reason that a guest returns. Case in point: I will never forget the desserts at the late Chef Kerry Simon’s whimsical SimonLA in the Sofitel Hotel in Los Angeles. He found a way to gussy up childhood favorites, like Twinkies and Ding Dongs, in a way that was so delightful, one could not
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help but order them — even if it was for the pure joy of reminiscence. In service-related businesses, high profits are made with the upsell. Desserts and pairings with incredible beverages provide that opportunity for restaurateurs. I’ve often thought of how charmed I would be if a dessert menu came with pairings of ice wines, sparklers, reds, or even waters, and sodas. As we know, taste profiles that pair well, are either opposite (salt vs. sugar) or the same (sweet and sweet). Why not get creative? Pairings are not always about alcohol. Consider the heaven of salty pizza and sweet Coke, or briny oysters with mineral-esque fuzzy water — how can you apply that to dessert? Lastly, incredible dessert offerings may be an extension of your business you may not have considered. Might a sugary menu element become your trademark? *Statistica 2018
by ALYSON DUTCH CEO of Brown & Dutch Public Relations and author of PR Handbook for Entrepreneurs and PR Handbook for Food Franchisees. Dutch has a keen understanding of the cultural sensitivities that rule the business marketplace and commands the media’s attention.
WHY INCENTIVES MAKE SENSE Upselling extra menu items creates a larger check and therefore a larger tip for the server. Making more tips seems like it would be enough motivation to get servers to upsell as much as possible. However, adding incentives to the mix has proven to increase sales and employee satisfaction. Both employees and employers can achieve greater benefits from extra motivational incentives. Incentives can be beneficial in several ways. The most obvious benefit is that incentives almost always boosts sales. Employees will always be happier when they get their own piece of the pie as prizes or other rewards in addition to their paycheck. Employees that work hard will be rewarded and recognized as they feel they should be for their work. Rewards make employees feel valued and boost morale in the workplace. There are many different kinds of incentives that can be used to motivate sales: simple recognition rewards like “employee of the month” can give employees pride in their work. However, incentives with cash or gift rewards tend to be more effective. Rewards can be given out daily, weekly or monthly and can range from cash bonuses to tickets to a game or show, or even free meals from the restaurant. Another way to motivate sales is a group incentive. Group activities can be effective because coworkers do not want to let each other down. For example, reward the entire team with a pizza party for meeting a sales quota within a specific time constraint. Employers can set up contests or reward each employee for meeting individualized goals. There are many ways to create incentives in the workplace, and they all have the potential to better the business while creating a more fun and rewarding work environment for the employees. Even though additional training may be necessary to soften the dreaded “hard sell” environment, introducing incentives into the workplace just makes sense.
RAISING THE BAR
THE BIZ
GRAYSON DIERKSMEIER, BAR DIRECTOR SOCIAL Costa Mesa Coffee is for Closers Woodford Reserve, Thunderking Cold Brew, Salted Vanilla, Coffee Bean Tincture & Cherrywood Smoke.
Drinking Dessert
S
weet but not too sweet, creamy but not too creamy, and salty but not too salty; makes perfect sense, right? Pairing cocktails with desserts can be a staggering thought when you start visualizing all the potential. Here are a few tips to get you started: based on your dessert, you want subtle contrast in your cocktail – think opposites attract. For a salt-tinged dessert, play around with something sweet that can quench your thirst. For a heavy, creamy dessert, construct a cocktail that has some acidity to refresh the palate. If your dessert is full of spice, choose a cocktail that feels clean and simple. The options are astounding, but this is a start. Feeling bold? Create signature dessert cocktails like Bar Director Dierksmeier has been doing at SOCIAL in Costa Mesa. Perhaps your patrons would rather drink dessert.
stirred coffee cocktail that wasn’t the cliché Coffee Old Fashioned, and I feel like we accomplished that.
WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR CREATING THE “COFFEE IS FOR CLOSERS?” The inspiration for creating Coffee
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE DESSERT COCKTAIL TO DRINK? Any Amaro.
is for Closers came from wanting to do a
DO YOU THINK MORE PEOPLE ARE ORDERING DESSERT COCKTAILS AT RESTAURANTS IN GENERAL? Yes. The
hardest thing about dessert cocktails is to find the happy medium between sweetness and balance. A savory cocktail can still be a dessert cocktail, and we do our best to explore that genre. ARE MORE PEOPLE ORDERING DESSERT COCKTAILS AT SOCIAL? Yes, and
we love it.
HOW DO RESTAURANTS INCREASE THEIR DESSERT COCKTAIL ORDERS?
Desserts don’t always have to be sweet, and neither do dessert cocktails. Crafting something that isn’t too sweet but can still have a level of richness and decadence is much more appealing to the masses. Served neat.
WHAT IS THE MOST DELICIOUS DES-
SERT COCKTAIL THAT YOU HAVE EVER MADE? Coffee is for Closers for the win. WHAT IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL DESSERT COCKTAIL THAT YOU HAVE EVER MADE? The “RUM”-os Fizz, a spin on a
traditional Ramos Gin Fizz, done with rum herbal liquor and coffee bitters.
WHAT DESSERT COCKTAILS DO YOU SEE BECOMING MORE POPULAR NATIONWIDE? Stirred and spirit forward
dessert cocktails. Drinks with depth, structure, and layers. Recently we joined forces with Thunderking Coffee and our collaboration has been epic. It has challenged us to think outside of the box and approach cocktails from a different angle. Who doesn’t love coffee? Who doesn’t love booze? Now we get to enjoy both at the same time. We take a lot of pride in our cocktails here at SOCIAL; we like to push the envelope and bring people out of their comfort zones. The more eclectic dessert drinks on our menu seem to be gaining the most ground. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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THE BIZ
VIN
Noble Rot can be highly collectible, as they can age for decades and demand top dollar. They can also be a great addition to your by-the-glass program as their shelf life (once opened) is weeks instead of days. You should consider adding these noble wines to your wine program as they not only drink well on their own but are incredibly food friendly. This style of wine pairs perfectly with desserts that are fruit driven and have caramel and toasted nuts (or my personal favorite, crème Brûlée.) Another exceptional pairing is for those that prefer to pass on dessert, but want to end a meal with a decadent experience. Stilton Blue with this sweet treat will have your guests wondering why they did not start drinking dessert wines sooner.
A
lthough “noble rot” might not sound glamorous, it is undoubtedly the nectar of the gods in the wine world. Noble rot is known as Botrytis cinerea, which is a welcomed fungus that only occurs in the perfect weather conditions. Grapes that are infected by Botrytis must hang on the vine just long enough to become slightly raisin-like and shriveled, but not too long as they may become moist and then all will be lost. Keeping that balance is the most difficult, as this fungus only occurs in moist conditions. When the stars align, and all condi-
26
tions are perfect in the vineyard, it is time to harvest. As if the timing for picking was not stressful enough, the grapes are harvested by berry (not by the bunch) one by one. Once these precious infected berries reach the winery, the juice from each grape is minimal but very concentrated and sweet. Making wine from grapes that provide just a few drops of juice per berry sounds torturous. Who thought of such a thing? Legend has it that it was the Hungarians, but regardless I am glad someone took the time to figure out this miracle of nature. Botrytised wines, such as, Sauternes
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by SONYA KELSEN Co-founder/Owner, Colony Wine Merchant & Promenade Pub NICKNAME “Boss Lady.” HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 20 years. FAVORITES: BEER Depends on the day. WINE Depends on my mood. COCKTAIL Old Fashioned, at the moment. COCKTAIL creation Silver tequila straight out of the freezer.
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