Great Taste Magazine 2018 Fall Issue by Great Taste Magazine

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 271 Tucson, AZ

FALL 2018

ham for the holidays Featuring all your favorite hams: Bone-In Hams, Boneless Hams, Smoked Hams, Ham Roasts, Spiral Sliced Hams, Honey Hams, and more! For more information, rebates, and samples call your Smithfield broker Affinity Group Elite at 714-256-8400. For global snack insights, visit smithfieldfoodservice.com.

Steamship Ham Roast

FROM THE EDITOR

Teri Williams Publisher, Proprietor

CONTENT

& Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net

TERI’S TAKE

ll work and no play equals no fun at all. No vacation, coupled with the crazy hours that you already work can put you in double jeopardy of compromising your relationships and your health. As working extra shifts take priority, you miss out on family gatherings and regular bonding opportunities. Make up for lack of quantity by increasing quality and intensity of play when you take time off. Vacations, including an overnighter are your ideal investment, as traveling together is the best way to build relationships. According to a study by the State University of New York at Oswego, after surveying 12,000 men, it was discovered that men who go on vacation reduce their overall risk of sudden death by 20 percent. Additionally, an article by the New York Times, states that you increase your rate of dying soon by 21 percent when you do not take any annual vacations. A survey by Sam’s Club discovered that very few small business owners and leaders (you know who you are) take days off. This caused exhaustion, impatience, poor decision making and illness. Help your work — become less stressed and more productive after taking a vacation. Travelers to our local casino destinations discussed in this issue are lucky to have a plethora of dining, wine tasting and fun available in the desert or near the coast. Studies show that it is better to spread the vacation experience twice or thrice in a year rather than taking one big vacation. Our staycation options should prove to be the perfect get-away as long as you don’t lose your shirt! Ready, Set, Go Play!

F E AT U R E S 10 GO PLAY Golden State Casinos

17 CHEF SCOOP Chef Barry Dakake

D E PA R T M E N T S 6 ANNIVERSARY Celebrate Fleming’s

4 PRODUCE PICK Pineapple Quince

8 SEA FARM TABLE

THE BIZ 20 OPERATIONS Good Samaritans

21 VIN

Gamble Roll

9 CHEESE PICK Swiss Gruyere

9 SEASONAL TREND

Buy Local

Oxtail

22 RAISING THE BAR Nothing is Free

RECIPES 3 LEMON CRÈME FRAICHE 19 CRAB CAKES WITH LEMON CRÈME FRAICHE

Lemon Crème Fraiche by CHEF BARRY DAKAKE — SCOTCH 80 PRIME

SAUCE FOR CRAB CAKE PICTURED ON COVER (RECIPE ON PAGE 19) 1C 1C 1/2 t 1/2 each

Crème fraiche (Bellwhether farms) Mayonnaise - Best Foods Lemon juice Lemon zest Salt and pepper to taste

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INSIDE

PU B LIS H E R CH IE F E DITO R PRO PRIE TO R Teri Williams

E DITO RIAL

PRODUCE PICK PINEAPPLE QUINCE IN SOME VERSIONS OF SCRIPTURE, IT IS SAID THAT IT WAS NOT AN APPLE THAT EVE ATE IN THE GARDEN OF EDEN. It was a pineapple quince. It was the Romans who learned to tame the tartness and acerbic taste of the fruit by cooking it down to a sweet gelatin. Nowadays, Moroccan, Turkish, Persian, Romanian, and Balkan cuisines all use this flavor. The quince is native to Asia and is the only member of the genus Cydonia. Pineapple quince, a medium-sized, knobby round-shaped fruit with smooth, yellow skin when ripe makes sporadic appearances throughout the year. It has white flesh with an underlying pineapple taste and scent. When eaten raw, the fruit is tart with a chalky texture. Thus, pineapple quince is best when cooked. Due to its sturdy texture, this fruit can endure long cooking times. They are mainly poached or roasted, to bring out the sweetness and richness of the fruit. While cooking, the color or the fruit changes to pink, adding a striking aesthetic to any dish. Pair pineapple quince with apples and pears, or include it in your next apple pie. Pineapple quince sauce can be used to top of a deliciously sweet dessert. You can add it to apple cider for a twist on this traditional autumn drink. Pineapple quince makes a tasty, sweet wine and can also be used to infuse beer, for a sweet, pineapple undertone. The Produce Hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and the propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. From www.theproducehunter.com.

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CHIEF EDITOR Teri Williams teri@great-taste.net CONTRIBUTORS Chef Gabriel Caliendo Frankie Di Iorio Sonya Kelsen Amanda Moreno Kristine Schneider Nick Tate

ART ART DIRECTION | GRAPHIC DESIGN Lisa Brink thebrinkcreative@gmail.com PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com

ADVE RT IS ING Advertising Sales Fred Burgess 714-960-0534 fred@great-taste.net GREAT TASTE MAGAZINE 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 PHONE 714-960-0534 FAX 714-475-5869 EMAIL info@great-taste.net WEB www.great-taste.net

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HERB CRYSTALS

HABANERO A BLAST OF SWEET HEAT! These all-natural Habanero Crystals have a bold and spicy flavor that will add a sweet kick to any food! By combining fresh habanero with cane sugar, we've locked in the natural bright orange colors and authentic flavors that add extra excitement to your salads, meats, seafood, pastries, gelato, etc!

ADVENTURES IN DESIGN www.TheBrinkCreative.com contact LISA BRINK at TheBrinkCreative@gmail.com 562-201-0553

branding logos advertising menus brochures websites magazines signage posters invitations packaging FALL 2018 | www.great-taste.net

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Happy Anniversary Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries. Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net, and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.

In the restaurant business, making it to that one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment. In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and applauded for their outstanding food and service. Congratulations! It’s a milestone birthday. 20 YEARS

FLEMINGS STEAKHOUSE OPENED December 1998 OWNERS Founders Bill Allen and Paul Fleming sold their interest of the restaurant to OSI (Outback Steakhouse Inc. which is now Bloomin’ Brands Inc.) EMPLOYEES 130 POPULARITY The best quality food, spirits, wines and exceptional service. A lively atmosphere where guests enjoy the moment. The classic Americana offerings of prime beef, perfectly prepared and graciously served, will never go out of style. LONGEVITY First, the people. Employees who take great pride in the Fleming’s culture and the caliber of guest experience. With our 20th anniversary, we are seeing the next generation of our original, and loyal guests also become regulars. And keeping things fresh, a beautiful new 6

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patio, opening for lunch, new wine lists and artisan cocktails, and “Chef Kevin’s Table”—six chef-driven specials. UNIQUE QUALITIES First class location—Fashion Island; most of the restaurants have changed in the center over 20 years. Exceptional demographics: business towers circling Newport Center Drive, high-end residential and excellent tourism and luxury resort properties.

vate dining areas, the exhibition kitchen, and the wine studio downstairs. All new state-of-the art AV with integrated sound systems, a lighter, brighter palette, an elevated facade and signage with exterior LED lighting and a new 1,200 square-foot-patio that seats 60 with booths, a living plant wall and two fire pits with love seats and lounges for a premier al fresco steakhouse experience. LOCATIONS 70 coast to coast

ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS We are hosting a special party honoring the Newport Beach Film Festival which is also embarking on its 20th anniversary. RE-MODEL It was a five month stem-to-stern extensive remodel to update Fleming’s with a modern, upscale, coastal vibe. The layout is still the same, but everything was renovated to include all dining space, the pri-

MAKE CONTACT

455 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, CA 92660 www.Flemingssteakhouse.com OPERATING PARTNER: Sanjiv Gupta CHEF PARTNER: Kevin Monahan

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GAMBLE ROLL WHILE I’M WRITING THIS ARTICLE, SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA’S OFFSHORE FISHERIES ARE IN FULL SWING with lots of local Dorado, Yellowtail, Marlin, Skipjack, Bonito, Yellowfin and Bluefin tunas on the line. It is an incredible time of year to be a fisherman, and a great time of year for restaurants to feature locally sourced seafood. My favorite cuisine to eat is Japanese, and more specifically sushi is at the top of my list. In my never-ending quest to learn, I’m always digging into the history of Japanese cuisine. As an avid fisherman, it is a perfect way for me to utilize my catch and continue to hone my craft as a chef, especially in the realm of sushi. One of my favorite Japanese styles of preparing a softer-fleshed fish like Albacore, Skipjack or Bonito is called Tataki. Tataki is a method by which the outside of a fish loin is quickly seared to firm up the flesh. There are several techniques used to accomplish this: using an open flame, sizzling in oil and/or, cooking in a quick, hot liquid bath. The finished loin is seared on the very outside to less than a 1/8 inch and the rest is raw. After the quick searing, it is immediately chilled. The chilled loin is then sliced thinly and either served on rice as sushi or on a plate as sashimi. The quick sear provides a firmer texture, making it easier to cut the loin. It also gives a nice textural foil to the softer flesh of these types of fish. The simplest way to prepare and enjoy tuna is by making what is called a Tekka Maki. Tekka Maki is simply nori paper, sushi rice and strips of fresh tuna. The nori paper is placed down, then the rice is evenly spread out on top. The cut tuna is placed down the center and then the nori and rice are rolled around it. The final product is a cylinder of nori with the rice and tuna inside. By eating it this simply, the flavors of the tuna can be appreciated without being masked. This preparation is said to have been started in Japanese gambling parlors known as Tekkaba. Because the rice is inside the nori, it was very easy for gamblers to hold and eat the Tekka Maki while playing their cards. No sticky rice to contend with. Next time you go for sushi, be sure to try some Albacore Tataki and Tekka Maki!

by GABRIEL CALIENDO LAZY DOG RESTAURANT & BAR VP of Research & Development, Corporate Executive Chef HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 27 years. FAVORITES: BEER Sculpin IPA. WINE Inkblot Petite Verdot. COCKTAIL Lemon Verbena & crushed Oranges with Vodka.

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ASONAL

TREND SE

ASONAL

OXTAIL

THE OXTAIL WAS ORIGINALLY FROM AN OX BUT NOWADAYS THE TERM GENERALLY REFERS TO BEEF OR VEAL TAIL. Though it’s quite bony, this cut of meat is very flavorful. Because it can be extremely tough (depending on the age of the animal), oxtail requires long, slow braising. It’s often used for stews or soups such as the hearty English classic oxtail soup, which includes vegetables, barley and herbs and is often flavored with Sherry or Madeira. Food Lover’s Companion Chef Rachel Haggstrom at Balboa Bay Resort – Newport Beach Braised oxtail & foie gras corzetti firsito, mustard frill, verde capra cheese sauce. Chef Craig Strong at Ocean at Main – Laguna Beach Oxtail Kale Risotto – Parmigiano-Reggiano, Garlic Blossoms Chef Guy Duplantier at Crazy Creole Gumbo House – Long Beach Smothered Southern Oxtails with Rice & Gravy - Slow cooked with Creole herbs & spices. Served over rice with a rich dark gravy.

CHEESE PICK

SWISS AOC AOP GRUYERE

SWISS AOC/AOP GRUYERE CHEESE GOT ITS START IN THE COUNTRY OF SWITZERLAND IN 1115. The Gruyere name comes from a Swiss village that nests in the Alpine Foothills. The French have their own version of the cheese which spurned a ‘war’ over who has the original, celebrated cheese. The European Union backed the Swiss, who emerged victorious in the debate and were ultimately named the originators. Gruyere is unique and celebrated for its continued production in cheese factories today, and its utilization of the original recipe. The flavor profile is one that sends its tasters on a journey. Gruyere initially has a sweet, but slightly salty flavor described as ‘nutty and creamy.’ However, as time passes and aging occurs, the cheese becomes more ‘earthy’. There’s no shortage of beer and wine pairings as Gruyere goes along nicely with white wines, Merlot, Champagne, and Tokaji Port. For beer, American Brown, APA American Stout, and English Pale Ale are highly recommended for the best possible pairing experience. The edible rinds of Gruyere cheese are the dehydrated part of the cheese and are usually used grated on pasta or melted on soup. When it comes time to sit down and enjoy a meal, start with some Gruyere on Cuchaule a French, saffron infused brioche-like bread. For more information about Swiss Gruyere AOC/AOP cheese and other cheeses, please contact your Freshpoint representative.

FALL 2018 | www.great-taste.net

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by FRANKIE DI IORIO

Golden State Casinos Close to Home

hen people want to gamble, dine out, and see a spectacular show all in one place, Las Vegas is often the first city that comes to mind. However, with a growing market of casinos in The Golden State, California is becoming a comparable destination for fun-filled weekend trips. In California, only casinos on Native American land, are allowed to have gaming machines. Los Angeles casinos only offer table games. Nowadays, visitors to casinos in California want to do more than just gamble; they want an experience similar to one they can get in Sin City. Over the past few years, many local casinos have undergone renovations, in part to compete with the big-name Las Vegas casinos. Local casinos have upped their game by introducing multiple dining choices including name branded restaurants, as well as adding additional guest rooms. This includes Pechanga Resort & Casino in Temecula. The newly renovated Pechanga now offers an astonishing twenty restaurants and bars to choose from, in addition to their golf course, multiple event venues, comedy club, theatre, spa, and various shops. The Cove at Pechanga, features four pools, including a zero-edge Main Pool that features a swim-up bar, a Family Pool with two waterslides and splash pad and three spas. Guests can have the experience of a lifetime without leaving Southern California. The Vegas flair is apparent, and though they’re not boasting any celebrity chef branded restaurants yet, several other resort and casino destinations throughout California are evolving as well. Harrah’s Resort in Funner, CA offers a wide variety of gaming options and houses Southern California’s largest array of video poker games. In addition to the multitude of games, Harrah’s boasts a lazy river, spa, brewery, a variety of cuisines for dining, as well as shows for entertainment. Agua Caliente in Rancho Mirage also features a casino, resort and spa with a large venue for its extremely popular shows. These destinations are just a few of the many exceptional casinos available in California. With fabulous dining spots, spas, bars, gaming and entertainment all in one location these establishments can offer the experience of Vegas while being many miles closer to home. When it’s time for a weekend getaway, consider taking a trip to one of the many great casinos California has to offer.

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THE ALMIGHTY BUFFET WHILE THE INITIAL APPEAL OF A CASINO MAY BE TO “HIT IT BIG” on the slots, or try your luck at the roulette table, there is another aspect of the casino that customers find appealing: the buffet. The advantages of a buffet include the multitude of options that will please any guest and the perceived value of an “all you can eat” option for a fixed price. Some patrons enjoy jumping from hotel to hotel, just to chow down on the various buffets. In Vegas, discount passes are available from some hotel groups that discount the costs per buffet as long as you eat at all locations in a set time period — no mean feat. Casinos in particular, have perfected the business of serving buffets morning, noon, and night. The average breakfast and lunch buffets are less expensive than dinner, which costs between $20

and $50 for adults. Some people view buffets as unsafe and unhealthy, but any trustworthy establishment has the highest standards possible to ensure customer safety. Buffets were originally introduced in casinos because they can serve more people in a shorter amount of time than a traditional sit-down setting. With more customers served and less wait staff on the clock, a buffet can be very profitable. Buffet chefs are tasked with creating dozens of flavorful dishes that hold well and can be rotated easily during service. People are finicky and what is popular one day, may be totally different than what’s “hot” tomorrow. The ability to repurpose unserved food for the next buffet is an advantageous way to keep the food costs in check. Buffet service can benefit the establishment as well as attract new customers.

Grand Palms Buffet Casino Chef: Executive Chef Leanne Kamekona Buffet Chefs: Senior Chef de Cuisine Jim Fleishman, Chef de Cuisine Domingo Hic, Sous Chef Alfonso Tovar Agua Caliente Casino Resort Spa 32-250 Bob Hope Drive, Rancho Mirage HotWaterCasino.com

Grand Palms Buffet — A culinary excursion through a world of flavors. Experience fine meats and seafood, fresh salads and sides, entrée carving and cooking stations, and an array of tasty sweets. EXECUTIVE CHEF LEANNE KAMEKONA

HOW MANY ARE ON YOUR TEAM? 25 DO YOU HAVE ADDITIONAL RESPONSIBILITIES WITHIN THE CASINO? Yes,

BQTS & TDR • Banquets, which serves an average of 80-300 daily • Team Member Dining room, serving 800-1200 daily

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BUFFET ITEM TO PREPARE? Chicken Saltimboc-

ca featuring roasted chicken breast, thinly sliced prosciutto, slice provolone cheese;

and wild mushroom marsala featuring wild shiitake mushrooms, button mushrooms, sautéed with garlic & EVOO, deglazed with marsala wine and finished with demiglace. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BUFFET ITEM TO EAT? Slow Roasted Prime Rib of

Beef, a whole bone-in rib eye with sea salt, black pepper, and EVOO, slow roasted for three hours at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

WHAT IS THE BIGGEST SURPRISE ABOUT WHAT PEOPLE LIKE AND DON’T? Crispy General Tso Chicken, a

crispy and tangy sweet and savory Asian dish has been a surprise hit.

HOW OFTEN DO YOU CHANGE THE BUFFET MENU? Quarterly. We like to

keep it seasonal and exciting throughout the year. We target the revisions based on seasonal product, weather, product sourcing, and feedback from our guests. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A CASINO AND TRADITIONAL FOODSERVICE ENVIRONMENT?

COST? $12.99-$21.99 HOW MANY ITEMS? 40 Items HOW MANY COVERS PER DAY?

Compared with other 4-5 Star resorts with buffets in them, the difference with casino buffets is the daily service with large volume.

1000

700-

WHAT IS THE MOST BEAUTIFULLY PRESENTED ITEM ON THE BUFFET?

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THE ALMIGHTY BUFFET

The Buffet Casino Chef: Executive Chef Israel Ortiz

linary programs including all of our restaurants, banquets, & food production.

Buffet Chef: Chef Keith Cody Harrah’s Resort Southern California

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BUFFET ITEM TO PREPARE? We put a lot of work

777 Harrah’s Rincon Way Funner, CA 92082

The Buffet — Dine around the world and then go back for seconds. Whether you’re looking to take your palate on an international adventure, or just want a fresh take on some of your favorite foods, every trip to the Buffet is a glimpse into the variety the best resort in Funner, California has to offer. Be sure to save room for dessert, our confection creations are worth earning a few extra steps for. EXECUTIVE CHEF ISREAL ORTIZ

HOW MANY ARE ON YOUR TEAM?

chefs and roughly 45 cooks.

DO YOU HAVE ADDITIONAL RESPONSIBILITIES WITHIN THE CASINO? I

currently oversee all back of the house cu-

into developing all of our recipes for the Buffet, so really, we enjoy everything we make, but I’d say I’m happiest with our Pho broth. I really do take pride in that one.

WHAT IS THE BIGGEST SURPRISE ABOUT WHAT PEOPLE LIKE AND DON’T? We have been very surprised, but

excited, to see how popular the Funner Sushi Friday’s offerings have been. But we do wonder why some of the Brewery items weren’t more of a hit, because we really liked them! HOW OFTEN DO YOU CHANGE THE BUFFET MENU? We currently have a pro-

gram where each day, about 20% of the items are changed. The main staples stay the same, but preparations and presentations rotate on nearly every station.

WHAT IS THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A CASINO AND TRADITIONAL FOODSERVICE ENVIRONMENT? Most-

ly the resources we have that allow us to offer the products and dishes that in another style of restaurant might not be available or reasonably priced. COST? $19.99-$32.99 and children 3 years and under eat free!

Oasis Buffet Casino Chef: Executive Chef Kieran Fleming Buffet Chef: Executive Sous Chef Patricia Roetman, Sous Chef Pedro Mora, Sous Chef Roy Agriam Spa Resort Casino 401 E. Amado Road, Palm Springs SpaResortCasino.com

Oasis Buffet — An expansive international menu, including active cooking stations for custom-ordered entrees, and a champagne Sunday brunch that is simply not to be missed. EXECUTIVE CHEF KIERAN FLEMING

HOW MANY ARE ON YOUR TEAM? 33 DO YOU HAVE ADDITIONAL RESPONSIBILITIES WITHIN THE CASINO? The

Buffet team is also responsible for over-

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seeing the Team Member Dining Room. Executive Sous Chef Patricia also handles some general administrative duties. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BUFFET ITEM TO PREPARE? St. Louis Style

House-Smoked BBQ Pork Ribs.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BUFFET ITEM TO EAT? Pork Ribs. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST SURPRISE ABOUT WHAT PEOPLE LIKE AND DON’T? Surprised at how much our

guests enjoy our in-house from scratch, hot soups all year long.

HOW OFTEN DO YOU CHANGE THE BUFFET MENU? We make adjustments in

the menu once or twice a month depending on guest’s comments and availability of product. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE

BETWEEN A CASINO AND TRADITIONAL FOODSERVICE ENVIRONMENT? We

have a large portion of local guests that visit our buffet several times a week. COST? $9.99-$24.99 HOW MANY ITEMS? 30-70 HOW MANY COVERS PER DAY? 500-600

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THE ALMIGHTY BUFFET

Pechanga Buffet Casino Chef: Executive Chef, Duane Owen Buffet Chef: Chef Francisco Duarte-Piza

can’t get away from my love of seafood. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BUFFET ITEM TO EAT? Seafood, ceviche. It’s so simple

Pechanga Resort Casino 45000 Pechanga Pkwy

and the flavors speak for themselves.

Temecula, CA 92592

Pechanga Buffet — An international selection of foods for lunch, dinner and brunch. It’s a comfortable spot to come with family and friends where everyone will find many things they enjoy. CHEF FRANCISCO DUARTE-PIZA

DO YOU HAVE ADDITIONAL RESPONSIBILITIES WITHIN THE CASINO? We

also take on some additional duties as we oversee the main production kitchen for the casino. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BUFFET ITEM TO PREPARE? I’m from Acapulco so I

HOW OFTEN DO YOU CHANGE THE BUFFET MENU? We change it seasonally,

and also depending on guest feedback. January 2018, we turned Thursday nights into the Lobster Extravaganza and it’s been wildly successful. For $44.99, guests receive a 1 & ¼ lb lobster along with corn on the cob and red potatoes in a mesh lobster bake bag that’s just been dipped in piping hot broth. They also receive all the other favorites of the Pechanga Buffet, along with dessert, for that price. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A CASINO AND TRADITIONAL FOODSERVICE ENVIRONMENT?

The biggest difference is the sheer num-

bers of everything – product coming in, ingredients, dishes offered, items coming over from our bakery, and of course, our staffing levels. COST? Adults: $21.99-$44.99; kids ages 3-11: $10.99-$15.99

Duane Owen Keeps His Eye on the Ball One of the elemental qualities of Duane Owen’s DNA is he’s never off. People hate to eat with him because when you dine with Duane, you dine with Duane’s never-ceasing eye riding shotgun. You dine with the eye that can critique the lack of glaze on Korean Spare Ribs one moment and the eye that in the next moment, sees the only satisfactory way Pechanga Resort Casino’s Thursday Night Lobster Buffet can operate to his exacting standards. You dine with the eye that saw flying in 2,500 live lobsters every Tuesday night from Maine, trucking them up from San Diego Wednesday morning and preparing them on a 12-person methodical assembly line that Henry Ford would

approve of Thursday afternoon as Pechanga’s proper salvo in the Claw Wars among Southern California casinos. “We have to cut 2,500 lobsters in four hours, so I make it fun for the team, shooting rubber bands at them,” said Owen, the Executive Chef of Pechanga for the last seven years. “Before they know it, in three and a half hours, we’re done. Because Owen’s culinary eyes – eyes honed over a 35year career that includes stops at the famous Chatham Bars Inn on Cape Cod and 13 years at the mammoth Foxwoods Casino in Connecticut – never blink, Pechanga’s 13 restaurants are not only a hallmark of the Temecula resort casino’s appeal, but present visitors to

the Southern California Wine Country with a diversity of culinary options unmatched in any one locale. Whether it’s prime steak at the Great Oak Steakhouse (one of three AAA Four-Diamond restaurants in Riverside County outside of the Coachella Valley), top-shelf sushi at Umi, Italian delicacies at Paisano’s, the spectrum of Asian fare at Bamboo or Blazing Noodles or, yes, even lobster at a buffet that serves more than 800,000 people a year, Owen’s eye misses nothing. Owen oversees a staff of more than 600. He personally hires every chef, oversees menu revisions, works with purchasing to ensure Pechanga is serving only the best ingredients

by BRIAN ROBIN and, yes, jumps on the line somewhere every day – usually on the banquet side. “Many people tell you not to manage with emotion. I’ve learned 180 degrees the opposite. I manage with emotion every single day. I develop relationships, what I call ‘turning up the radio.’ Every day, no matter what, I turn it up.” “If we had 17 Duanes here, we would fail. We would fail miserably,” he said. “I need my chefs bringing it to me, pushing me to say, ‘Is this the right idea?’ You have to be flexible and realize you’re not the one with all the answers.” Perhaps it’s that flexibility that makes Owen the all-reaching octopus he is. Or perhaps, it’s not the arm. It’s the eye.

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DINNER & A SHOW Agua Caliente A NIGHT OUT AT AGUA CALIENTE CASINO IS A NIGHT TO REMEMBER. With exciting and new shows every weekend and a variety of dining choices available both before and after the show, guests are sure to be pleased with their experience. The Show, Agua Caliente’s concert theatre, has boasted talents such as Stephen Tyler, Duran Duran and Sting. The venue seats 2,101 people and has boxes that offer food and drinks during the performance. Showtimes are usually at 8 PM on the weekends with the occasional weekday and earlier or later performances. Of course, Aqua Caliente offers a variety of dining options available both before and after performances. After all, what’s a show without dinner? Perhaps the most popular dining spot is The Steakhouse, a fine dining restaurant specializing in steak and seafood, and the

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winner of a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence every year since 2007. With classic white tablecloths and red patterned carpet, the ambiance is relaxed and romantic. The service is of course, first-class and friendly. The Steakhouse is perfect for a meal before the show, or for a quick late-night cocktail or dessert after it’s ended. An alternate option for dinner is The Grand Palms Buffet. It is also open before performances and even features a special seafood dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. A dining option especially recommended to round out the evening after the show is “The After Party” at Waters Café. On Fridays and Saturdays, the bar area in the Waters Café offers drink specials on beer, wine, well drinks, and appetizers, making it the perfect place to wind down after an exciting evening. A night out at Agua Caliente holds its own against an experience in Las Vegas.

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TAP TAKEOVER Harrah’s Resort

CRAFT BEER HAS TAKEN OVER CALIFORNIA! When the SR76 brewery opened in Harrah’s Resort Southern California, it was the first tribal-owned brewing concept in the growing beer scene of Southern California. It was inspired by the 10,000-year-old ancestry of the Rincon Band of Luiseño Indians. It was also named after State Route 76, the original foot path that led the tribe to the coast. Now, it leads people away from the coast and toward the brewery. All of the beer offered at SR76 is produced onsite by Brewmaster Brian Scott and is exclusive to the brewery. The brewhouse was custom-built by Marks Design & Metalworks to maximize efficiency of the brewing process, and is comprised of American-made stainless steel sourced from Vancouver, Washington. Over the course of a year, Scott will produce up to 20 diverse brews that will be rotated seasonally at the brewery and at other restaurants throughout the resort. Scott describes his beers as approachable, well-built, and balanced, with intriguing undertones of flavor. The craft beer movement began in the Bay Area in 1965 when a Stanford graduate, Fritz Maytag bought the Anchor

by AMANDA MORENO

Brewery to save it from going out of business. He began brewing authentic and stylistic beer and thus became the first “craft” brewery since the prohibition that sparked a revolution. By 2017, almost 92% of the state’s residents lived within ten miles of a brewery. Many of those breweries are located in the Southern California region and operate within the Orange, San Diego and Los Angeles counties. California is at the forefront of the American craft brewing movement. Nowadays, more breweries call California home than any other state in the country. According to the California Craft Beer Association, as of December 2017, more than 900 craft breweries operate across the state. Craft beer has become the crowd’s obsession and breweries are thriving thanks to them. Nationwide, the economic impact of breweries doubled from 2012 to 2016 and is still going strong. From the Ballast Point brewery in San Diego to the Angel City Brewery in Los Angeles, the beer scene is buzzing and growing like never before. A report from the Brewers Association stated that, in 2016, the total economic impact of California breweries was about $7.3 billion and provided a little over 49,000 jobs. FALL 2018 | www.great-taste.net

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GO PLAY

KIDS AND CASINOS

MUCH LIKE THEIR KIDS, PARENTS ALSO WANT TO PLAY. What better way to do that than at a casino or hotel with a childcare facility? It gives kids a place to play and gives parents some time to play. However, only 12% of hotels offer child care and the percentage is less at the local casinos we surveyed. Cruising is the only local child friendly accommodation we found with built in kid’s camp. Dismal statistics like these make it difficult for parents to go play when they have no place to leave their children. Because of the severe lack of childcare facilities in hotels, parents sometimes have to bring along their mother-in-law or another care giver. If grandma is not available, parents resort to hiring a babysitting service. The service usually takes care of the extensive hiring process: from finding potential candidates, to interviewing them, to background checking them. Hiring a babysitter is a process that involves research and risk. While some call their workplace a second family, the background checks are parallel to how members of the hospitality industry experience the hiring process; you don’t want to gamble with your child’s care. These initial background checks may be costly in energy and time, but they help to ensure more security, whether its’ your family, or your work community. 16

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It is essential to conduct background checks for new hires in any industry. These include: a criminal records check, a motor vehicle records check and an investigative criminal plus check. A CRIMINAL RECORDS CHECK includes a social security number trace, a database search from the “National Criminal File,” a sex offender search, and a database search from certain federal and county courthouses. The MOTOR VEHICLE RECORDS CHECK is an inspection of a candidate’s driving record from the state where the license was issued. Ultimately, the most thorough background check is the INVESTIGATIVE CRIMINAL PLUS CHECK, which includes all of the components of a criminal records check and a motor vehicle record check, plus advanced identity research, a state-level criminal records search, a national bankruptcy records search, a national wants and warrants search, and a civil restraining orders search. While these checks should be used to find a potential babysitter, they also play an important role when hiring a new employee at a restaurant. When considering the value of precautions, conducting a background check could prove career-saving. It reduces the threat of hiring someone who could harm you, your business, and your customers.

CHEF SCOOP

“Quite frankly Las Vegas is like the mega culinary of the world.... All the greats are represented here in Vegas. If I’m getting out of culinary school right now I’m buying a one-way ticket and I’m going to find a job and I’m going to finagle my way in because I’m going to be good. If you’re a really great student then this is the place to be. There’s no other place with so many opportunities, chefs and different types of cuisines to explore.” — CHEF BARRY DAKAKE

Chef Barry Dakake

by FRANKIE DI IORIO

EF SC O

* ORED B

alking up to the elegant, well-lit foyer, the host checks you in at a pearly white stand in front of a black marble wall with the golden Scotch 80 Prime logo on the center. Once inside, the white linen tables and golden seats are bright against wooden paneling and more golden, geometric accents. The vibe is cool, ethereal and impactful. Best of all, in the back of the house, Chef Barry Dakake will be taking care of your food. Chef Dakake grew up in Rhode Island where his uncle owned a few ice cream and sandwich shops. The kitchens became his sanctuary and it was there he realized his penchant and talent for cooking. Being accepted into culinary school straight out of high school began Chef ’s journey to culinary notoriety. After culinary school, Chef Dakake was offered a job working at Aureole in New York under Chef Charlie Palmer, whom Chef still admires. However, Chef worked mostly under the supervision of the sous chef, who made the daily job, “like Hell’s Kitchen times ten”. It was this experience that made Chef realize he wanted to be a positive and nurturing mentor in the future.

FALL 2018 | www.great-taste.net

CHEF SCOOP Chef got his first chance to be a leader in 2001 when he helped launch N9NE Steakhouse at Palms Casino Resort in Las Vegas. He had made it to a mega culinary hub of the world. Now, Dakake is the Executive Chef of Scotch 80 Prime, which opened in May of this year in the old space of N9NE Steakhouse. Although he’s achieved success as a head chef in Vegas, Chef is still a dreamer, believing that once you stop dreaming, you might as well throw in the towel. He knows that bigger or flashier does not always equal better, and instead, chooses to focus on the flavor profiles of his dishes. As a leader, Chef Dakake believes in teaching his employees with kindness, even when they make mistakes. In his words, “You treat wounds with honey, not vinegar”. Chef also treats the hotel and restaurant guests with kindness, and occasionally prepares meals for room service. He also oversees hotel events and banquets both on or off-site, that include items from his menu. When it comes to food sources, Chef does miss the ability to walk down to the pier to get fresh lobster as he could on

the East Coast. However, he has found no shortage of quality suppliers near his area in Vegas. Chef Dakake earnestly believes in respecting animals and always sources from farms that treat their animals humanely. In fact, whether it is for produce or meat, Chef takes the time to visit the places his restaurant will source from, so the quality is always up to his standards. Chef is also passionate about ending hunger and is active in the Culinary Council, a division of 3 Square Foodbank and many other organizations that help those in need. Chef Dakake still works crazy hours as any dedicated chef would, but he makes sure to take time for fun in his life via the occasional vacation. One of his annual vacations is a trip to Newport Beach in the summer. At home, one of Chef ’s biggest supporters is his fiancé, Shenik. The couple also has two foodsnob dogs, Coco and Viviana, who eat carrots. Specifically and exclusively, organic carrots from Melissa’s Produce. Chef Barry Dakake values a simple life. As he says, you just need to “EatDream-Love”.

From the Chef’s Mouth SCOTCH 80 PRIME PALMS RESORT – SPA & CASINO 4321 W Flamingo Rd. Las Vegas, NV 89103 702-942-7777 ESTABLISHED MAY, 2018 HOURS Sunday – Thursday 5 – 10 PM Friday & Saturday 5PM – 12 AM AVERAGE COVER Dinner: $150 CHEF’S FAVORITES KITCHEN TOOL Japanese mandolin KITCHEN APPLIANCE Vitaprep COOKWARE Le Creuset SPICE All spice OC RESTAURANT Sabatino’s Sausage Company DISH TO EAT Crispy Maine Lobster with Spicy Jalapeños from Lotus of Siam JUNK FOOD Big Island Candy’s cookies and chocolates RAW INGREDIENT Fresh wasabi and lemon FAST FOOD Olneyville New York System’s Hot Weiners 18

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YEARS IN THE BUSINESS 39

CULINARY STYLE Simple, Free Spirit, Steak

AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK 70 hours

MANAGEMENT STYLE Supportive, Inclusive And Fair

1ST COOKING MEMORY I was with my uncle at Clyde’s Food & Spirits in Rhode Island and was able to get on the line and cook fish and chips

YOUR LAST SUPPER This would be the party of all parties for me. I would have it back in RI at my friend George and Lori Pesce’s ocean-front beach house where all of my friends and family would attend, and my band of choice would be the Beach Boys. My last supper would be a New England lobster bake with all the fixings. Added to the dinner would be Rhode Island-Style Baked Stuffed Shrimp, Rhode Island Lobster Rolls with a side of local garden leaf lettuce, sweet red onions, cucumbers, and cerignola olives finished with red wine vinaigrette. You can’t forget the starters though—Stuffie Baked Clams, Fried Point Judith Squid and Olneyville New York System’s Hot Weiners (a Rhode Island hot dog), and three types of clam chowder—Rhode Island, New England and Manhattan. My drink would be J.J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese Riesling 2012 and Dom Pérignon Rose 1988 and the soft drink would be a frozen slush from Dell’s Lemonade and my late Aunt Carmella’s fresh lemonade.

FIRST JOB Picking raspberries at a farm in Rhode Island FIRST HOSPITALITY JOB Jimmy Burchfield’s classic restaurant (a fine dining Italian restaurant) in Rhode Island WHAT INTERESTED YOU IN THE INDUSTRY I was attracted to cooking at a young age, but I used to watch my uncle count the money at the restaurant every night and thought I would be a millionaire one day. My Uncle Dennis “Clyde” Dakake has owned and operated restaurants for the past 40 years. YEARS OF CULINARY EDUCATION 2 years SCHOOL Rhode Island School of Design’s Culinary Program

CHEF SCOOP

Crab Cakes with Lemon Crème Fraiche PICTURED ON COVER CRAB CAKE 3 lb Crab meat (Phillips brand colossal lump) 4 oz Red pepper - minced 4 oz Celery - brunoise 3 oz Shallot - brunoise 1.25 oz Garlic - minced 2 oz Roasted garlic puree 3 oz Sherry wine vinegar 1t Tabasco sauce 2 each Lemon zest 1 oz Lemon juice 4 oz Best Foods mayonnaise 1 oz Grey Poupon dijon mustard 12 oz Panko crumbs Salt and pepper to taste 2 each Egg whites

by CHEF BARRY DAKAKE GARNISH All herbs and vegetables by Melissa’s® Produce Heirloom cherry tomatoes Frisée Italian parsley (ﬂat leaf) Fine herb mixture: 1T Chives 2T Tarragon 1T Parsley 1T Thyme DIRECTIONS – CRAB CAKE Drain the crab meat. Sweat the peppers, garlic, shallots, and celery. Combine and mix all the ingredients except the crab. Gently flake apart one quarter of the crab and mix gently. Add the remaining crab

meat to the mix keeping the lumps as whole as possible. Adjust the mixture with additional Panko if necessary to bind. Mold into 5 oz cakes (ring molds are suggested). Sauté the crab cake in sauté pan with some vegetable oil until golden brown on each side. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes at 350 degrees or until the internal temp is 155 degrees. DIRECTIONS – GARNISH Mince all of the above garnish herbs, combine and sprinkle for garnish TO PLATE Place crab cake in the center of a plate. Garnish around the outside of the plate with frisée, heirloom tomatoes, and lemon sauce (see page 3). Sprinkle with fine herbs and garnish with Italian parsley.

FALL 2018 | www.great-taste.net

THE BIZ

O P E R AT I O N S

California Good Samaritan Food Donation Act by KRISTINE SCHNEIDER

THE CONCERN OF BEING FOUND AT FAULT DUE TO A FOODBORNE ILLNESS REIGNS SUPREME OVER THE URGE TO DONATE, BUT IT SHOULDN’T.

here are several factors that cause dining locations to end the night with leftovers. In an ideal world, we would know exactly how many guests would be dining in a restaurant per day, what they’re going to order, and how much of it. Maybe then, would our food purchasing and production come out evenly? As we work as a community to improve food sustainability, addressing food waste is a hot ticket topic. California Legislative Information, states how “many potential food

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donors cite fear of liability as one of the top barriers to donating to organizations that seek to redistribute food to individuals in need.” Furthermore, they state, “In a 2016 survey conducted by the Food Waste Reduction Alliance… it was found that 44 percent of manufacturers, 25 percent of retailers and wholesalers and 39 percent of restaurants identified liability concerns as a top barrier to donating food.” Liability is crucial for holding persons accountable, but it leads to a lot of food being thrown in the trash.

Fortunately for California, the California Good Samaritan Food Donation Act, signed in October of 2017, further strengthens protections against establishments that wish to donate food. By Assembly Bill No. 1219, “Existing federal and state laws protect good faith food donors, including individuals, businesses, and government entities, as well as gleaners and food recovery organizations, from civil and criminal liability.” Unless it is a situation of gross negligence or intentional misconduct, donators will not be held liable for any damage or injury that results from the intake of donated food. Reconsider your donation policies to ensure that you’re doing your best and help us spread the word to those that are not aware. If this information is new to you, consider how your operation can donate thanks to immunity by this act. Donating food can have its time-consuming moments, but there are resources that seek to make the system more efficient. Local to Orange County, we have an enthusiastic network of people looking to feed those in need. A few to research include Waste Not OC Coalition, Bracken’s Kitchen, Someone Cares Soup Kitchen, Share Our Selves, Second Harvest Food Bank, Food Riders, and Food Finders. Each one has specifications on what types of foods can be received, so further research can help to decide what would be the best fit for your establishment. www.great-taste.net/donate-food

VIN

THE BIZ

Sourcing Local RECOMMENDATIONS THAT YOU CAN PURCHASE WITHOUT TAKING THE TRIP STOLPMAN ESTATE SYRAH, BALLARD CANYON

Distributed by Mosiac BRANDER ROSE, SANTA YNEZ

Distributed by Wine Warehouse FOLEY PINOT NOIR, STA. RITA HILLS

Distributed by Estates Group at Young’s Market KEN BROWN CHARDONNAY, STA. RITA HILLS

Distributed by Estates Group at Young’s Market THREE SAINTS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, HAPPY CANYON

Distributed by Estates Group at Young’s Market

s many of you may know, I have always preached that sourcing locally is best. I am a big believer that you don’t have to leave the state to find exceptional wine. If your restaurant, bar or shop is in Orange County or Los Angeles and you want to stay very local, there is a worldclass growing region just north of us. Santa Barbara is not just a charming town on the Pacific; it is a rather large wine-growing region too. Santa Barbara County boasts world-class AVA’s (American Viticultural Area) that are planted on more than 16,000 acres of vine. The elevation ranges from 200 to 3,400 feet above sea level and is home to a number of soil types. It is the longest transverse valley (east to west) on the Pacific Coast. The cool climate promotes the perfect conditions for Burgundian varietals, but

there is a small AVA that gets warm enough for Bordeaux varietals. You can find great Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Cabernet Franc in this diverse region that is so close to home. One might be surprised at the depth this region can add to a wine list. Santa Maria Valley is known for elegant Pinot Noirs with a hint of spice, while Sta. Rita Hills Pinots are a bit more concentrated. Rhone varietals thrive in Ballard Canyon which is the newest AVA. Happy Canyon gets warm enough to grow fruit-forward Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. In Santa Ynez, you can find refreshing Chardonnay as well as many unexpected varietals such as Gruner Veltliner, Trousseau Gris, and Chenin Blanc. Do yourself a favor and take a twohour road trip to learn more. The small town feel is enough to lure you out of the big city, but the world-class wines will keep you coming back for more.

by SONYA KELSEN Co-founder/Owner, Colony Wine Merchant & Promenade Pub NICKNAME “Boss Lady.” HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 20 years. FAVORITES: BEER Depends on the day. WINE Depends on my mood. COCKTAIL Old Fashioned, at the moment. COCKTAIL CREATION Silver tequila straight out of the freezer.

FALL 2018 | www.great-taste.net

THE BIZ

RAISING THE BAR

Nothing in Life is Free

alifornia boasts many successful casinos that have been influenced by the motherland: Vegas. Trends and new systems of operating make their way from beginnings in Vegas to their sister casinos here in the golden state. Unfortunately, one long-standing casino tradition has begun phasing-out in Vegas: the days of free drinks for

gamblers may be numbered. It is common knowledge among gamblers that sitting at a poker machine, slot machine and most often a playing table will get you free drinks while you gamble. However, some casinos have begun to keep track of how much a customer gambles before they decide that they have “earned” a free drink. At Caesars Palace, there are lights on gaming

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by FRANKIE DI IORIO

machines visible to the wait staff that turn on when the customer has spent a certain amount of money. Only then will the server come over to ask if you would like a complimentary beverage. Similarly, at MGM Grand, the machine will distribute a drink voucher. Other casinos have already followed suit and implemented more strict guidelines for which gamblers get free drinks. Free drinks at tables are still available at casinos in Vegas, as it would disrupt games if patrons had to stop to pay for their drinks and there is not yet a system to monitor amount spent at a table. Gambling has been a good way to save money on drinks in casinos despite the expected gratuity, but now the comp’d drinks may be limited. If it turns out you have to buy a drink while playing Vegas it could level the playing field for California and potentially prevent more people from travelling out-of-state. Now may be a good time to plan a road trip to Vegas; take advantage of the complimentary drinks while they’re still available.

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