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FROM THE EDITOR
Teri Williams Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net
TERI’S TAKE When I ask a question of multiple restaurateurs and chefs I always get an amazing array of answers representative of all the different types of restaurants and dishes in the area. We are so blessed. This time when I asked about “Modern Latin”, you would have thought I used the “F” word. No, not that one, “Fusion.” I had no idea that there was so much controversy, or conversation about what the term “Modern Latin” actually means or if in fact, it exists, or if chefs accept the term. Latin cuisine has in fact been in existence for centuries and restaurants strive to be authentic. Can you be traditional and modern? Suffice it to say, we have a plethora of modern-day cooks, with modern-day ingredients and tools, creating mouthwatering, esthetically pleasing dishes that may or may not have been created at another time and place. Dig in — we’re certainly hungry for more — whatever you want to call it. Cheers!
CONTENT F E AT U R E S 10 MODERN LATIN
Red French Butter Lettuce
DE CUISINE
5 SEA FARM TABLE
Deborah Schneider
6 CHEESE PICK Comté
THE BIZ 22 BACK OF THE HOUSE House-made Tortillas
24 MARKETING
RECIPES 3 SPICY TOFU TACO 11 SEABASS AGUACHILE
What’s In A Name
25 VIN
12 JAMAICA VEGAN TACOS 17 HALIBUT MANGO CEVICHE
Latin American Wines
26 RAISING THE BAR More Than Agave
21 KALE, SPINACH AND QUINOA SALAD 26 SOMOS UNO BARREL-AGED COCKTAIL 26 SINALOA IN A GLASS
ON THE COVER, recipe by Chef Deborah Schneider, Executive Chef / Partner, SOL Mexican Cocina / solita Tacos & Margaritas, photo by Michael Rutt
4 Extra-firm tofu – cubed 5/8” – drained overnight Sambal paste Cilantro – chopped Salt Oil
TACO 6” Dorado corn tortilla Tofu Oil – as needed 1/4 C Cabbage Slaw 2 Avocado slices – salted Shredded lettuce 4 Fried plantain slices
4 PRODUCE PICK
19 MEET OUR CHEF
SPICY TOFU TACO TOFU 2 packs 1C 1 2t 2T
D E PA R T M E N T S
1
Pickled jalapeno slices Cilantro – chopped Jalapeno ‘flower’ – beer-battered, deep-fried
Pat tofu cubes dry, and toss with sambal, chopped cilantro, salt and oil. Lightly oil the tortillas on both sides and cook on a comal until toasted, chewy and crisp around the edges, with golden spots. While the tortillas are toasting, heat a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 T oil to the pan and sear the cubes in one layer until browned, turning as little as possible. Pile the tofu on top of the tortillas and top with the cabbage slaw, avocado slices, shredded lettuce, plantain chips and pickled jalapenos, as shown. Sprinkle generously with chopped cilantro. Serve with a beer-battered jalapeno flower on the side.
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PRODUCE PICK
RED FRENCH BUTTER LETTUCE
PU B LIS H E R CH IE F E DITO R PRO PRIE TO R Teri Williams
E DITO RIAL CHIEF EDITOR Teri Williams teri@great-taste.net CONTRIBUTORS Chef Gabriel Caliendo Frankie Di Iorio Alyson Dutch Sonya Kelsen Matthew Pacheco Kristine Schneider
ART ART DIRECTION | GRAPHIC DESIGN Lisa Brink thebrinkcreative@gmail.com
Red French Butter Lettuce isn’t exactly red: it’s more of a purple-red blend, starting with green at the base of the leaves. This head of lettuce has loosely formed delicate, tender leaves. These frilly leaves originate in the Mediterranean basin, and as the name implies, are as smooth as butter. They lack the bitterness you may find in other lettuce varieties. Butter lettuce is traditionally used for common items such as sandwiches, salads, and garnish. To take it a step further, consider using it for smoothies, soups, or “tortilla-less” tacos or chicken wraps. Create a simple yet tasteful snack by rolling fresh cheese, such as goat or ricotta, into the butter leaf. An ideal wine pairing for butter lettuce is a light wine like Pinot Blanc or Melon de Bourgogne, but if you’re in a beer mood, go for a light body or subtle maltiness, with Pale Lager or Hefeweizen.
IF WE’RE GETTING “PICKY” ABOUT LETTUCE,
The Produce Hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and the propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. From www.theproducehunter.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com
ADVE RT IS ING Advertising Sales Fred Burgess 714-960-0534 fred@great-taste.net GREAT TASTE MAGAZINE 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 PHONE 714-960-0534 FAX 714-475-5869 EMAIL info@great-taste.net WEB www.great-taste.net
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A TOAST TO TOASTS THE HUMBLE OPEN-FACED SANDWICH HAS SEEN SUCH A RENAISSANCE in restaurants around the world and especially in the US. Known as Tartines in France, Smorrebred in Scandinavia, and Butterbrots in Germany, these sandwiches offer so many options not only in the toppings, but also in the vehicles used to carry them. Latin American countries have their own versions of these tasty open-faced sandwiches. Most of them are based on a maize generated bread or base. Here are a few of my favorite mediums: BOLEO
A wheat flour-based bread dough very similar to the French baguette, the perfect boleo is crispy and light on the outside and soft and tender inside. Often served closed traditionally, the modern Latin American chef is using the boleo to create their versions of toast. The boleo is cut in half, yielding two toast bases. Lightly oiled, seasoned and grilled, smeared with a sauce, and finally finished with your topping of choice. One of my favorite versions starts with a smear of refried black beans topped with orange achiote braised shredded pork, drizzled with a roasted corn crema and finished with some marinated cabbage and radishes. SOPES
by Gabriel Caliendo
These open-faced corn-based breads are generally fried and then topped with assorted delicious toppings. Denser than bread, they really hold up well to wet ingredients that may otherwise ruin a piece of traditional bread. Sopecitos are smaller or bite sized versions and are my preference for mimicking the toast craze in a Latin American way. One of my favorite Sopecitos are bite sized freshly fried, smeared with some freshly crushed guacamole, and topped with hand shredded roasted chicken that has been tossed in a red mole sauce. Top with roasted sesame seeds and crushed peanuts and serve.
LAZY DOG RESTAURANT & BAR
AREPAS
VP of Research & Development, Corporate
A specialty of Venezuela and Columbia, the flat open-faced corn-based breads are traditionally filled or stuffed but can also be topped. These work well with anything from meats and chicken to a fried egg. One of my favorite versions utilizes pickled seafood, such as shrimps or scallops. A smear of lime crema on the Arepa, followed by some finely shredded cabbage, and then topped with the pickled shellfish adds a nice balance.
Executive Chef HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 27 years. FAVORITES: BEER Sculpin IPA. WINE Inkblot Petite Verdot. COCKTAIL Lemon Verbena & crushed Oranges with Vodka.
There is culinary life beyond Avocado Toast. Get out to the market and get inspired by what ever is around seasonally. Incorporate that into an open face sandwich and embrace the current toast trend!!!
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CHEESE PICK
COMTÉ COMTÉ IS A SEMI-HARD CHEESE commonly found in the households of France that is growing in popularity within the U.S. Similar to Champagne, Comté is only called by that name when it’s created in Franche-comté region of Eastern France. Uniquely, comté has a distinct flavor: the Montbeliarde cows graze on varieties of grass and flowers, which leads to a fluctuation in flavor for the final product. It is made with unpasteurized cow’s milk and has a golden but inedible rind. Comté is known to be nutty, salty, fruity, and occasionally smokey or sweet, depending on the cheese-making process. A proper wine pairing for the cheese would be a dark red such as Cabernet Sauvignon. An appropriate beer for the occasion would be an amber or brown ale, preferably something with a dryer finish. This cheese is flexible for cooking and melts well in fondue or on a Croque Monsieur. It is also wonderful to simply nibble on with fresh fruit, like green apples and grapes, or a baguette. For more information about Comté, and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
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ADVENTURES IN DESIGN www.TheBrinkCreative.com contact LISA BRINK at TheBrinkCreative@gmail.com 562-201-0553
branding logos advertising menus brochures websites magazines signage posters invitations packaging MAY | JUNE 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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HORCHATA
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PUESTO’S HORCHATA LOCA House-made frozen horchata & Malahat San Diego White Rum, topped with cinnamon & cinnamon sticks.
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THE DRINK HORCHATA, KNOWN TO MANY AROUND THE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA area is a sweet, “milky”, cinnamon flavored drink that is available anywhere from your neighborhood market, to the Starbucks down the street. Unknown to most, there is another form of horchata that is made in Spain and other Latin American countries that is a little different. The traditional Spanish horchata de chufa is made with only tiger nuts, water and sugar and shares the simplicity of the horchata de arroz that we know and love. In Central America, not only is the tiger nut or any variety of tree nut added but also a native seed called the jicaro. This seed with licorice-like sweet flavor is combined with sesame seeds, rice, cocoa, and other spices to produce the drink which is known locally as semilla de jicaro. This particular drink has been making its way into the American market, both as a powdered juice mix or as the finished liquid product. Soon, there will be a storm of semilla de jicaro. Be on the look out. In the modern world, the name “horchata” has become synonymous with the flavor of cinnamon. Even between the different regions of the world, cinnamon is one of the fundamental spices in the drink. This has given chefs the ability to take this veritable recipe and adapt it to almost any dish. New horchata-inspired dishes include horchata-flavored doughnuts, cookies, ice cream, smoothies, drink mix, whey protein, beer, liquor, cakes, popcorn, energy drinks, coffee, pre-flavored milk, scent dispensers and last but not least, e-cigarette juice.
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MODERN LATIN
A
SEABASS AGUACHILE BY CHEF KATY SMITH Seabass tiradito in guava broth topped with avocado, pickled manzano, sliced radishes, micro greens, hearts on fire.
variety of different countries and unique cultures are encompassed under the umbrella term “Latin”. Fresh, innovative creations are popping up almost daily, like Churro French Toast, tomatillo cocktails, and horchata… in everything. Mexican fusion restaurants like Baja Med, a mix of cuisine from Baja California and the Mediterranean region, are becoming more and more common, as Anthony Bourdain foresaw back in 2013. We even found a ramen shop opening soon that will use masa to make the noodles and hominy broth. Some establishments are keeping their traditional Latin recipes intact, but are changing up the serving style of their dishes, borrowing from other cultures. For example, we found restaurants featuring Mexican omakase, Latin pub food and, dare we say, Latin amuse bouches. While food trends provide the most obvious modern take on Latin cuisine, anything out of the ordinary can be modern. From restaurants that hold on to culinary tradition and stay modern in different ways, to others that devise completely new Instagram-worthy creations regularly, modern can mean many things.
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MODERN LATIN
PUESTO ingredients and flavors that people have been working with for centuries and to find a way to pay homage to them while bringing them into our current culture of dining. DOES YOUR RESTAURANT DEMONSTRATE THE STYLE? WHAT DISH ON THE MENU BEST MOST REPRESENTS YOUR DEFINITION OF MODERN LATIN CUISINE. We absolutely do! Tacos are the
“MODERN LATIN” HAS DIFFERENT MEANING TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM, WHEN IT COMES TO WORK? I feel so
grateful that I have made a career out of cooking Mexican food. Food is such a central part of life and family and celebration. It is an honor to get to work with
Seabass Aguachile by Chef Katy Smith 2 oz 1/2 fl oz 1/2 fl oz 6 drops 2 3 3 2 3
Seabass – thinly sliced Guava broth – prepped Olive oil Sesame oil – pure Avocado – sliced very thinly Pickled Manzano – prepped Sea bean Radish slice – cut in half Hearts On Fire Micro herb
Layer the fish on a plate, creating a half circle and folding the fish over each other. Drizzle 1 ounce of the guava broth around the fish and 1 ounce of olive oil to fill in and space. Dot with drops of sesame oil. Finally, layer with 2 thin slices of avocado, 3 pickled manzanos, 3 sea beans, 3 radish halves and 2 leaves of red sorrel (hearts on fire).
CORN OR FLOUR? Corn! And more specifically, heirloom blue corn! FAVORITE LATIN CHEESE? Queso doble crema. It’s ultra rich and creamy – almost like a Mexican version of Brie. Harder to find the real stuff in the US but so delicious and special! RED OR GREEN? Green! I love the freshness of green chiles and cilantro.
As the multi cooker and pressure cooker are necessities in any Hispanic household, modern or not, Bene Casa’s Digital Pressure Cooker Oven is a newly designed solution to bake, toast, roast, and broil a variety of dishes. Most commonly used in pressurizing and moisture-seal cooking methods, this model leaves food moist, flavorful, and full of nutrients. Equipped with new pressure cooking technology, the stainless steel Bene Casa Digital Pressure Cooker Oven features adjustable settings and Bluetooth capabilities for wireless use and is designed to be a staple in any modern household with adventuresome cooks.
UNDER PRESSURE
EXECUTIVE CHEF KATY SMITH PUESTO
heart of our menu. We make some tacos that are completely traditional, and some tacos that are our own Puesto-take on classic dishes in Mexico. A great example is our Chicken Al Pastor Taco. This dish is the product of Lebanese immigrants moving to Mexico in the 1900s and bringing with them the tradition of cooking on a spit. Traditionally, pork is marinated in an achiote paste, thinly sliced, and skewered and cooked on a rotating spit, similar to gyro meat. It is served with grilled pineapple on a warm tortilla. At Puesto, we marinate chicken breast in the same, classicachiote marinade and serve it wrapped in our signature crispy melted cheese along with a sweet and savory hibiscus tingatopped with pineapple pico de gallo. It is all of the components of the classic dish but done in our own way!
LIGHTNING ROUND
Find the recipes for the Guava Broth and Pickled Manzano at www.great-taste.net/directory/pro/chef-katy-smith/ MAY | JUNE 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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photo by Irving Barcenas
TRENDING
JAMAICA TACOS BY EL MERCADO MODERN CUISINE Blue Corn Tortilla, Sauteed Hibiscus, Pea Puree, Jicama, Avocado.
EL MERCADO MODERN CUISINE EXECUTIVE CHEF BRYAN BUSTOS EL MERCADO MODERN CUISINE
“MODERN LATIN” HAS DIFFERENT MEANING TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM, WHEN IT COMES TO WORK? Our Mod-
ern Latin presentations roll with our daily development: a gradual growth. Modern is just a successful rebellion against the status quo. Once socially accepted it’s no longer modern.
LIGHTNING ROUND CORN OR FLOUR? Corn as it is gluten-free and the healthier option for us. FAVORITE LATIN CHEESE? Oaxaca Cheese. RED OR GREEN? Green it is! Who doesn’t like good avocado and tomatillos!
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Jamaica Tacos Yield - 8 Tacos 8 oz Hibiscus Flowers - dry 4C Water 1 Shallot - medium 1/2 t Garlic - minced 1 Jicama - cubed 1t Black Recado - (Mexican chili with smoky, spicy flavor.) 1 pinch Salt 1 pinch Pepper 8 Blue Corn Tortillas - homemade 1/2 C Green Peas - frozen 1/4 C Grape-seed oil 8 oz Pea purée 1 pinch Sesame seed 1 Avocado slice - for garnish Bring Hibiscus flowers and water to a boil. Cover and reduce on simmer for 15 minutes to re-hydrate the flowers. Repeat steps 1 and 2, two more times replacing the liquid with clean water. Reserve the liquid for an agua fresca or shrub. Sauté Hibiscus flowers, shallots, and minced garlic in small sauté pan over medium heat. Cube jicama and season with a pinch of Recado Negro and salt to taste. Plate about 1 ounce of Hibiscus flowers on each tortilla. Add cilantro leaf or any fresh herb of your choice. Place two pieces of jicama in each taco for a refreshing crunch. Squirt two nickel sized drops of pea purée in each. Sprinkle with sesame seed. Garnish with a thin avocado slice.
TRENDING
MODERN LATIN
HABANA EXECUTIVE CHEF ALEX MORENO HABANA
“MODERN LATIN” CUISINE IS DIFFERENT TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM? Modern
Latin Cuisine to me is creative freedom.
WHAT DISH ON THE MENU BEST REPRESENTS YOUR DEFINITION OF MODERN LATIN CUISINE? One of our most
popular dishes at Habana is our Lechon Asado. For this dish, we cook pork belly sous vide for 36 hours. We then fry it to create a crispy chicharon skin on the outside and melt in your mouth meat on the inside. We serve it with traditional moro y cristanos and a warm garlic mojo sauce.
WHAT SIGNATURE OR KEY INGREDIENTS DO YOU FIND YOURSELF MOST INTERESTED IN? WHY? There are so
many ingredients in the Latin Cultures to play with, such as spicy habaneros versus the aji amarillo chiles, which have the bouquet of the habanero without the heat. Plantains in their three different stages: green, ripe, and over ripe, all can be used for savory and sweet dishes. Latin Cuisine also has so many different influences from all over the world. This makes it so exciting to create new dishes for our menu at Habana. We bring in fantastic local produce, high-end cuts of meat, beautiful seasonal fish, and use modern techniques to cook them. LIGHTNING ROUND
CORN OR FLOUR? I love both! We do a street style corn that is served with our churrasco skirt steak dish. And on the flour side – we have amazing empanadas that we stuff with chicken picadillo or roasted corn & cheese picadillo. FAVORITE LATIN CHEESE? I can’t really pinpoint which Latin cheese is my favorite. Recently, I took a trip to Baja and stopped by one of the mercados, and it
felt like I was at the Ferry Building in S.F. visiting Cowgirl Creamery. They had an endless amount of cheese to taste. They had local specialties, making anything from washed rind with really pungent earthy tones, to nice clean queso frescos. They had a 36-month aged Cojito from Michoacan that tasted like Parmesan Reggiano, with a hint of blue to it... BOMB!!!
LECHON ASADO BY CHEF ALEX MORENO Slow roasted cuban pork shoulder; topped with pickled onions and garlic mojo; with white rice, plantain, sofrito black beans.
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TACO MESA & TACO ROSA CHEF/OWNER, IVAN CALDERON TACO MESA & TACO ROSA
“MODERN LATIN CUISINE” IS DIFFERENT TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM? Modern
Latin means to me traditional cuisine (Mexican, French, Italian, Argentinean, Spanish, Cuban, Salvadoran, Portuguese, Peruvian; countries who’s language roots are Latin) mixed with global seasonal ingredients, modern trends and cooking techniques. For example, we take a traditional recipe such as “Chile Nogada” whose name is derived from a Spanish word Nogal (walnut tree). It is a Poblano pepper stuffed with ground beef, currants, apple, pear, herbs and spices, traditionally served room temperature topped with a cold cream sauce and pomegranate. At Taco Rosa, we modernize it by making it vegan and serving it hot, replacing the ground beef with jackfruit, the apple with seasonal persimmons, and adding olives and plantains. For the sauce, we make a wine reduction with coconut milk, walnuts, herbs and spices, topped with sweet red pepper.
WHAT DISH ON THE MENU BEST MOST REPRESENTS YOUR DEFINITION OF MODERN LATIN CUISINE? At Taco Rosa,
we honor our ancestors by utilizing natural, GMO-free corn infused with herbs & spices, using wild-caught seafood, organic greens and ancient family recipes infused with modern trends. An example of this would be our Tacos de Filete served on our tortillas that are infused with spinach and poblano pepper. The outside skirt steak is char-broiled, cut against the grain, and sautéed with shiitake mushrooms & onion. It is topped with French Brie cheese that is flamed table-side.
TACOS DE FILETE BY CHEF IVAN CALDERON A trio of charbroiled skirt steak tacos sauteed with mushrooms and onion, tropped with flamed brie cheese, and served with salsa fresca de tomatillo, black beans, and Mexican rice.
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WHAT SIGNATURE OR KEY INGREDIENTS DO YOU FIND YOURSELF MOST INTERESTED IN? WHY? At our restau-
rants, we use GMO-free corn vs flour
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MODERN LATIN
PANXA COCINA mainly because corn is a gluten-free product which is much healthier than flour. We also use GMO-free corn to thicken our sauces (which is why many of them are vegan and gluten-free) and in all of our tacos and enchiladas unless requested otherwise. LIGHTNING ROUND CORN OR FLOUR? Corn all the way. FAVORITE LATIN CHEESE? My favor-
ite Latin cheese for my recipes is usually a blend of cheeses. For enchiladas, I love Oaxaca topped with queso fresco; for Queso Fundido I love a mix of Oaxaca, Parmesan, bleu cheese and pepper jack; while for steak tacos, I love melted Brie. RED OR GREEN? It changes, but most of my favorites are green. Today could be our modern version of Mole Pipian (pumpkin seed, arugula, cilantro, tomatillo, spinach, almonds, onion, garlic, poblano & serrano pepper, secret herbs & spices) for my Chile Relleno. Sauces are an integral part of every dish we create, such as Hutape (spinach, corn, Serrano pepper) for my double pork chops, Chile Negro (chiles Negro, Ancho & Guajillo) for my pork shank and our traditional emulsified Jalapeño Garlic salsa with grape seed oil for my steak tacos.
CHEF/OWNER, ARTHUR GONZALEZ PANXA COCINA & ROE SEAFOOD
“MODERN LATIN” HAS DIFFERENT MEANING TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM, WHEN IT COMES TO WORK? Modern
Latin cuisine to me is taking the techniques and flavors that I grew up with in an Oaxacan household and am passionate about, and applying French and modern technique, modern presentations, and exploration into familiar flavors to create new flavor combinations in exciting formats.
DOES PANXA DEMONSTRATE THE STYLE? I believe so! My dad is from
Oaxaca, and my Abuelita (grandmother) would cook all the time when she stayed with us. I was exposed to Latin/Mexcian/ Oaxacan flavors at a very young age. This personal background is where I get the history, foundation, and the flavors of the old world of Latin cuisine. To add to that, through cooking and my experiences working in Santa Fe, NM, my cooking has taken on distinctly New Mexican flavors and styles as well. The result is that Panxa is a hybrid of Old Mexican and New Mexican Flavors, with a modern approach. I am also very fond of the foods of South America and have been fortunate
enough to have had friends from Argentina and Peru, so you see hints of that in my style of cooking as well. WHAT SIGNATURE OR KEY INGREDIENTS DO YOU FIND YOURSELF MOST INTERESTED IN? We use ingredients
from Peru all the way to Santa Fe (chiles, cooking techniques, herbs) LIGHTNING ROUND
CORN OR FLOUR? I love a good handmade flour tortilla, but I have to go with corn at the end of the day, and specifically blue corn! FAVORITE LATIN CHEESE? Cheese please; Real Queso Oaxaca, and Requesón are my favorites.
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PLAYA MESA EXECUTIVE CHEF, ROLANDO RUBALCAVA PLAYA MESA
“MODERN LATIN” HAS DIFFERENT MEANING TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM, WHEN IT COMES TO WORK? Taking
traditional dishes and using contemporary techniques.
WHAT DISH ON THE MENU BEST MOST REPRESENTS YOUR DEFINITION OF MODERN LATIN CUISINE? Perhaps, our
Cecina dish. Instead of using traditional eye round, we use salt-cured beef flank steak, which, while a subtle difference on the surface, often is all that it takes to make a particular dish stand out quite nicely.
WHAT SIGNATURE OR KEY INGREDIENTS DO YOU FIND YOURSELF MOST INTERESTED IN? WHY? Dry chilis in
general because I enjoy adding a nice balance of heat and depth to every dish.
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PLATO DEL PATRON BY CHEF ROLANDO RUBALCAVA Half roasted jidori chicken, confit spare ribs, house-cured cesina, chile toreados, pico de gallo, ceboilltas, papas bravas and refried beans. Served with hand-made corn tortillas fresh off the comal!
WOULD YOU SHARE A RECIPE OF A PERSONAL FAVORITE DISH? Salsa de
Aceite. It can be as simple as toasted chilis, oil, garlic and salt. Try it! LIGHTNING ROUND
CORN OR FLOUR?
Corn, hands down,
because corn to me is the most important ingredient in Mexican cuisine. FAVORITE LATIN CHEESE? Favorite cheese is Cotija. RED OR GREEN? I would say both to red and green. It all depends what I’m in the mood for.
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MODERN LATIN
LOLA’S MEXICAN CUISINE Halibut Mango Ceviche CHEF/OWNER, LUIS NAVARRO LOLA’S MEXICAN CUISINE
“MODERN LATIN” HAS DIFFERENT MEANING TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM, WHEN IT COMES TO WORK? To me,
Modern Latin cuisine is the opportunity to keep the evolution of Latin cuisine moving forward. Taking traditional ingredients and techniques that have been mastered by our ancestors and bringing them to an audience that is more aware, more educated, and that demands fresh food. Being able to grow the audience through food. Modern Latin cooking is sizzling right now with ingredients that are more readily available than ever before. At Lola’s, we try to satisfy everyone’s expectations, while still providing fresh ingredients and new techniques, as well as elevating the cuisine away from basic tacos, burritos, beans and rice.
WHAT SIGNATURE OR KEY INGREDIENTS DO YOU FIND YOURSELF MOST INTERESTED IN? WHY? We like to seek
ingredients that are in season, like fresh fish and poultry. We then imagine what could be, how we can make a sauce us-
ing a French technique, or cook down a complex sauce as the Italians do, while still using indigenous ingredients used for hundreds of years. LIGHTNING ROUND
CORN OR FLOUR? I’m corn all the way. If you ask my dad or my wife they will argue otherwise! I do love myself a freshmade flour tortilla, but corn is king. I would be excommunicated from the family if I chose flour! FAVORITE LATIN CHEESE? My favorite cheese is queso fresco, with queso panela coming in a close second. I love the moisture, the consistency and the flavor of queso fresco. I grew up with this cheese, crumbled over a fresh-made batch of frijoles de la olla, a little pico de gallo and corn tortillas. Nothing gets better than that. RED OR GREEN? I am on team green. I don’t like either any less, but if I had to choose I would go with the tang of the tomatillo, accompanied by the subtle heat that equals savory deliciousness!. Fresh made corn tortillas, tender lengua, and a spicy, tangy salsa de tomatillo verde, and I am a happy camper.
2 lb Fresh Local Halibut - cut into 1/2” cubes 1 1/2 C Lime juice - fresh squeezed 1 1/2 C Orange juice - fresh squeezed 2 Habaneros - seeds removed, finely diced 4 C Mango - cubed large 2 Avocado - fleshed and cubed 2 Red onion - small, sliced thin 1 C Cilantro - chopped 4 1” Asparagus - sliced 1 Jalapeno - finely sliced 2 t Salt Sugar 2 t Scoop the fish into a large stainless steel or glass bowl, add the citrus juices and habanero chile. The fish must be completely submerged in juice. Allow the fish to cook in the citrus juices 30 minutes to an hour for medium rare, and 3-4 hours for fully cooked dryer ceviche. Drain the citrus juice into another bowl to hold for the sauce. In the large bowl combine the fish, mango, avocado, red onion, cilantro and asparagus. Mix with salt and sugar.
photo by Kristine Schneider
BROTH Reserved Citrus Juice 3 Oranges - juiced 1 bunch Cilantro 3 1” Asparagus 1 t Salt 2 t Sugar Combine the citrus juice used for cooking the fish, juice from three more oranges, 1 bunch of cilantro, and three chopped asparagus in a blender jar. Blend until silky smooth. Finish with 1 t salt, and 2 t sugar. TO PLATE In medium sized oval bowl place ceviche in the middle and pour 1 cup of the citrus juice broth. 1 sprig of cilantro for garnish and finely sliced jalapeno slice. Serve with chips.
MAY | JUNE 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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TRENDING
MODERN LATIN
AGORA CHURRASCARIA PROPRIETOR, SCOTT IM AGORA CHURRASCARIA
THE TACO
Agora Churrascaria features a cuisine and service style that dates back to 1995 in the U.S., and even further back in Brazil. The origin of rodízio-style service or “skewer run” is unclear, but it may have started at Churrascaria Matias in Rio Grande do Sol. The story claims that a server brought a skewer of meat to the wrong table, but let the guests take a small piece of the meat anyway. This sparked a new style of serving that became extremely popular in Brazil and eventually made its way here to the U.S. Preserving this core Brazilian tradition while continually upkeeping a “modern Latin” image to attract new customers
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can be a difficult task. Agora maintains modern décor, buffet presentation, and uniforms in order to ensure that the public always views the restaurant as fresh and relevant. In the end, Agora keeps the food traditional and delicious, and modernizes their establishment in other ways. “MODERN LATIN” HAS DIFFERENT MEANING TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM, WHEN IT COMES TO WORK?
Modern Latin Cuisine means to me innovation in cooking procedure and style with taste of authenticity. Our restaurant demonstrates the style mostly with modern cooking procedures of meats with our custom grill.
THE TACO HAS BEEN opening the first ever taco AROUND FOR WELL truck in Los Angeles in 1974. OVER 100 YEARS. The His business was so successful exact origins of the taco are that he was able to open a unknown, but some historians restaurant, King Taco, which believe the term “taco” comes is now a multi-million-dollar from 18th-century silver mines chain. From taco cart, to truck, in Mexico. It was there where to brick-and-mortar restaurant, women would set up small tacos have proven to be lucrataco carts so that the workers tive in any environment. could pick up a lunch that was There are pros and cons both portable, and delicious. to every type of eatery, but one More recently, taco carts benefit of a brick-and-mortar began popping up in the U.S. restaurant is that it provides a and introduced new food into consistent location that cusBACON PB&J TACO BY TACO ASYLUM, COSTA MESA Southern Californian neightomers can frequent on any day Roasted Peanut Butter, Carrot-Ginger Jam, Fresh Greens, Sweet & Spicy Bacon, Pickled borhoods. Now, in the 21st of the week. Stationary restauFresno Chili. century, tacos have become an rants can also eliminate some integral part of American food, of the problems that come with partly in thanks to the food truck explosion in Los Angeles. a mobile food truck, like mechanical issues or limited work The evolution of the taco cart has transformed the little space that can hurt profits or cause accidents. Now, taquerias carts into popular mobile cuisine – food trucks. An elevated are spread across the country, and this popular integration of version of the cart, the taco truck can travel further and feed cultural cuisine has created modern takes on traditional style. more customers with ease. Taco trucks largely contributed to Modern taquerias are an American favorite. Whether made the popularity of modern mobile food, as well as traditional traditionally or with a unique twist, tacos are universally loved Mexican cuisine in America. Raul Martinez is credited with and are here to stay.
www.great-taste.net | MAY | JUNE 2018
CHEF DE CUISINE CH
EF ST O
*
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SP
* ORED B
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Chef Deborah Schneider
photos by Michael Rutt
I
nspired by the diverse culinary regions of Mexico, Chef Deborah Schneider is taking Southern California’s Mexican cuisine back to its roots. Chef Schneider got into the restaurant business for the “glamor and high pay” following a career as a magazine editor and sports writer. While traveling in Europe, Chef began cooking on yachts and discovered a real passion for the craft. After a six-month period of schooling at Le Cordon Bleu, she began talking her way into stationary restaurants and was cooking professionally by 1980. She often found herself working alongside Mexican chefs and learned about traditional dishes through the food they made for themselves from their grandmas’ recipes. This sparked a love for Mexican food and culture that drove her to make Mexican cuisine the focus of her culinary endeavors. Today, she works in about six restaurants spread out from San Diego to Arizona and has used her previous writing experience to produce over five popular cookbooks that delve into Mexican culture and cuisine. Her book Cooking with the Seasons at Rancho La Puerta was nominated for a James Beard Award. One of her books, as well as her restaurant SOL Cocina in Newport Beach, is influenced by Chef ’s many trips to Baja California. Chef Schneider likes to visit Mexico twice every year if possible, to keep her ingredients and menu selections authentic and strongly tied to Mexico’s culinary history. Chef prides herself on her “nerdy” fascination for the history and anthropology that has shaped all the amazing dishes of the many neighboring regions of Mexico. Holding the integrity of dishes sacred, Chef Schneider takes inspiration for her restaurants from each of Mexico’s unique twenty-six states. She is truly creating her own path in the American food scene by bringing a completely authentic and unadulterated supply of MexiMAY | JUNE 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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CHEF DE CUISINE
can dishes to the forefront of an industry that has a tendency to favor trends over tradition. At SOL Cocina, they use native ingredients and make their own masa. Chef gives her teams cultural training at all of her restaurants so that they understand not only how a dish is made, but why it is made that way. Chef Schneider has been an innovator in Mexican cuisine and has shaped the expectation for similar restaurants over the past ten years. She values the one on one
experience with customers that creates loyalty and trust. Fifteen to twenty percent of the menu in each of her restaurants changes about twice a year, to keep the returning customers’ favorite dishes while introducing them to other Mexican dishes they may not have encountered before. With Chef Schneider, gone are the days of fashionable fusion food. What’s trending now are the untouched, tried and true traditions that have been passed down from generation to generation.
From the Chef’s Mouth SOL MEXICAN COCINA www. solcocina.com SOLITA TACOS & MARGARITAS www.solitatacos.com AVERAGE COVER Lunch: $25+ Dinner: $35+ ESTABLISHED Sol Newport Beach-July 2009 Sol Scottsdale-March 2012 Solita Huntington Beach-December 2013 Solita Valencia-May 2015 Sol Playa Vista-January 2016 Sol Denver Cherry Creek-August 2016 HOURS Mon – Thurs: 11:30 am – 10:00 pm Fri: 11:30 am – 11:00 pm Sat: 10 am – 11:00 pm Sun: 10 am – 10:00 pm CHEF’S FAVORITES KITCHEN TOOL My knives, period KITCHEN APPLIANCES Blender, instant pot COOKWARE Matfer black steel pans / cast iron/ le creuset /grills CONDIMENT/SPICE Besides salt? Garlic OC RESTAURANT Gabby’s JUNK FOOD Mr. Frostie in Pacific Beach RAW INGREDIENT Seafood FAST FOOD Any pho restaurant FOOD TV Tony Bourdain doing anything. 1ST FOOD-RELATED MEMORY Seeing my very first gourmet magazine in 1970 and falling in love with the photos, food, 20
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KALE, SPINACH, & QUINOA SALAD The combination of bright dressing and good-for-you-greens with fresh and dry fruit, salty cotija cheese and crunchy nuts is irresistible. Crisp vegetable chips take the place of croutons. On request, we serve this salad topped with pan-seared wild salmon that has been marinated with lemon slices, shallots and olive oil. It’s terrific with grilled chicken or shrimp, or just as it is. Serves 2 as a first course, 1 as a generous entrée salad.
recipes, travel… My first cooking attempts were old-style gourmet recipes, with the ingredients embedded in the directions. I still collect them. FIRST HOSPITALITY JOB I was a cocktail waitress while in college in the Friars Bar in downtown Toronto. There were Elvis impersonators. We had to wear miniskirts and fishnet stockings and made lousy money. Then I bartended and worked as a server. YEARS IN BUSINESS FOH: 3 years; BOH: 38 years (yeah, that long)
DESCRIBE YOUR RETIREMENT DINNER All my favorite line cooks and kitchen friends gather at sunset. Foie gras, hot and crusty, aigre-doux, toasts. All we can eat. Next, a ritual freeing of captive live lobsters and dungeness crab. Live free, my hard-shelled friends! Then one or two rounds of really good champagne followed by rounds of Casa Noble single barrel for the toasts, which will be endless. Loud music, possibly some dancing. Then, unicorn en cocotte with chanterelles. I have no intention of ever retiring. I will leave the kitchen feet first.
CHEF DE CUISINE
Kale, Spinach, and Quinoa Salad by CHEF DEBORAH SCHNEIDER
SALAD 4 C 1 C 1/2 C 1/2 1/2 C 1 T 2 T 2 T
Baby kale Baby spinach Chia seed vinaigrette Lemon – juiced Quinoa – cooked Cotija cheese – or sub feta Mango – diced Pepita – toasted
2 T 1 C
Cranberry – dried Beet & yam chip – or other vegetable chip
DIRECTIONS Toss together kale, spinach, dressing, lemon juice and quinoa. Pile into a bowl and top with remaining ingredients.
CHIA SEED VINAIGRETTE Yield: Makes about 3 ½ cups 1 C 2 C 1 1/2 T 2 T 1/2 t 1 C 1/2 C 1 C 1/2 C 1 1/4 C 1 1 2 Cloves 1/2 C 4
Chia seed – soaked Water Sugar Sea salt – or to taste Black pepper Lime juice – fresh-squeezed Pomegranate juice Red wine vinegar Orange juice – with pulp Lemon juice – fresh-squeezed Hass avocado – large Shallot – large, diced Garlic Extra-virgin olive oil Basil sprig – large, minced
PREP Soak 1/2 cup of chia seeds in water overnight until soft. Drain any excess water before use. DIRECTIONS Place all ingredients besides chia seeds and basil into blender or Vita-Prep. Stir in basil and soaked chia seeds. Correct seasoning. Shake well before use.
CHEFS NOTE Most of SOL’s dressings are very low in fat, and vegan, since I prefer to thicken with avocado instead of using eggs. Fresh-squeezed citrus juice makes all the difference in the bright flavor of this recipe, while chia seeds add great nutritional value. Note that chia seeds should always be soaked before use.
MAY | JUNE 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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THE BIZ
BACK OF THE HOUSE
Tortillas: House-made with Passion and Pride
I
t is true that store-bought tortillas are convenient and can satisfy customers who haven’t experienced freshly-made tortillas. However, house-made tortillas are far superior in flavor to store-bought, have fewer ingredients, and are a healthier option that can elevate any dish in many ways. Making house-made tortillas does require a little extra labor, consisting of partially pre-cooking the masa, steeping overnight, and then cooking the tortillas fresh daily; the result is worth the effort. Making your
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own tortillas is also a great way to get creative in the kitchen with different mixes and flavors that will pair well with different dishes. Taco Mesa makes their tortillas for their four locations in addition to the two Taco Rosa locations. Their locations serve approximately 5,000 dozen tortillas per week combined that their customers love. All 60,000 of them, house-made with love, at the Taco Mesa, City of Orange location. Hand-made tortillas lend flavor, authenticity, and integrity to any dish. Try making your own or shoot Chef
Ivan Calderon an email (tacomesa1@ aol.com) and order some of his. You will taste, feel and smell the difference. CHEF/OWNER, IVAN CALDERON TACO MESA & TACO ROSA
WHAT MAKES YOUR TORTILLAS UNIQUE? Our tortillas are house-made
masa from California-grown, GMOfree corn. Only 8% of the world's corn remains genetically unmodified, and we pride ourselves on using only what’s pure.
BACK OF THE HOUSE
WHAT INGREDIENTS ARE CRUCIAL TO YOUR TORTILLAS? To make our
GMO-free corn dough for our tortillas, we first partially cook our GMO-free corn with calcium hydroxide, otherwise referred to as CAL or LIME. The mixture steeps overnight through a process called Nixtamal. The proportion of lime-cal to corn is crucial, as is the temperature before steeping. We also blend in a variety of peppers and superfoods for additional tortilla flavors. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO MAKE YOUR OWN TORTILLAS? With the current
evolution of our brand, we continue to honor our ancestors, our bodies, and the earth. We are committed to decolonizing and indigenizing Mexican cuisine by taking it back to its roots, which is why sourcing the GMO-free corn and tak-
ing an artisanal approach to making the masa is such an important step for us. That being said, this evolution is about something much bigger than our brand. We want to create a catalyst for change in our industry, both locally and worldwide. We intend to do so by selling our GMO-free masa and tortillas to other restaurants and by creating a replicable model that will take GMO-free corn and true Mexican cuisine overseas. WHAT HAS YOUR TRIAL AND ERROR EXPERIENCE BEEN WITH CREATING YOUR TORTILLA RECIPE? It takes an
experienced tortillero to perfect varying masa recipes for tortillas, tamales, and chips. Each product requires a different grind, and each needs to be cooked over flames using different temperatures.
THE BIZ
HOW DOES THIS NEW PROCESS DIFFER FROM THE OLD WAY? We did not
previously make tortillas. Now that we do, we’re able to blend in herbs, superfoods, and spices into the masa to create unique blends like our popular spinach-poblano tortillas. HOW MANY TORTILLAS CAN YOU MAKE PER DAY? We can produce 200
dozen tortillas per hour.
DO YOU SELL TORTILLAS TO OTHER RESTAURANTS? Yes, we currently sell
our tortillas to local restaurants including Haven Gastropub in Old Towne Orange.
ARE YOU LOOKING TO INCREASE YOUR TORTILLA SALES TO OTHER RESTAURANTS? Yes! It’s part of the evo-
lution of our brand.
MAY | JUNE 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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THE BIZ
MARKETING
What’s in a Name?
I
will never forget a painful experience I had at Mario Batali’s Babbo in New York City. The boob with whom I agreed to have a blind dinner date with hadn’t the faintest idea of the difference between burrata and bean dip. While we sat in the squishy-seated Greenwich Village eatery, my date forced the waiter through explanations of everything on the menu, loudly asking: “what’s
sated. Some of the more sophisticated ones might go for a little nostalgia and entertainment – but they too, in the end, want something satisfying. My point? You must ask yourself: do I want to be cool, or do I want to build a business (and still be fabulous)? The only thing to remember is this: business ceases to exist without a customer. Know thine customer, then give them
WOULD A SIMPLE TITLE OF “BLACK BEAN AND PORK STEW” SUFFICE TO DESCRIBE A BRAZILIAN FEIJOADA? Bucatini?” Exasperated, the waiter finally said: “sir I would just suggest the Spaghetti Bolognese.” My date looked at him quizzically and said: “What’s that?” I wanted to crawl under the table. This article is meant to make a point about how authentically Modern Latin your menu items really must be and whether this helps, or hurts your business. Are you selling out by including enchiladas on the menu instead of the Ropa Vieja? Would it be distasteful to anglicize the national Venezuelan dish of Pabellón criollo by calling it something else? Would a simple title of “Black Bean and Pork Stew” suffice to describe a Brazilian Feijoada? At Babbo, Mario went for the fully authentic Italian descriptions. Being the famed or now, infamous, iconoclast who could get away with making orange Crocs a fashion statement, he sourced every rare ingredient he could find. Though the Bucatini all'Amatriciana had a description: “with Guanciale, Hot Pepper and Pecorino,” even I had to pull out my iPhone to look up “guanciale.” As a foodie, I loved this adventure! Customers, the bulk of whom pay your bills, hate this. No one wants to feel stupid or intimidated; hungry customers just want to be 24
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what they want. There have been many chefs famed for taming what were at one time considered exotic cuisines and modernizing them. Pierre Selvaggio of Valentinos is one of them. He explained to me once that when he opened the place in 1972, his was the first Italian restaurant in Los Angeles without red and white checkered cloth on the table and Spaghetti Bolognese as a menu selection. I am not dismissing Spaghetti Bolognese as anything short of the complex dish it is, but in his mind, it was far too pedestrian. If Selvaggio was French, he’d never stoop to serve crème brûlée, but would opt for marjolaine or a croquembouche. So, being the brave soul that he is, Selvaggio served up shellfish and crudo. Can you imagine crudo at that time? That was way before sushi became fashionable, yet he persevered with his high ideas. It took a long time for things to catch on, and he suffered greatly by paying to educate an entire city’s palate to accept something new. His story, however, was a success. Though we tend to deify restaurateurs like Pierre, here is the truth of choosing this path: if what you have is seriously innovative, it’s going to be more expensive,
by ALYSON DUTCH CEO of Brown & Dutch Public Relations and author of PR Handbook for Entrepreneurs and PR Handbook for Food Franchisees. Dutch has a keen understanding of the cultural sensitivities that rule the business marketplace and commands the media’s attention.
more time consuming and incredibly competitive. Ask any MBA, and they’ll explain to you that smart business folk look for industries that have innovated in the past few years are trending — and go in once a consumer base has been educated and established. Only then — do they attempt to do something slightly different — and crush it. This being Southern California, we are surrounded by foodies with money and, gratefully, we live in a time and place in history where we are so wealthy that going out to eat is a pastime. There is much more room to be inventive in this market, but the question is: are you in business to make money — or spend money? If your customer, like my date, knows not the difference between a pupusa and a Salvadoran Stuffed Quesadilla, how will you build your menu?
VIN
THE BIZ
Latin American Wines Wines from Baja are very much worth seeking out and adding to your wine list since, well, it is California anyway. There are some importers/exporters you can contact, but the best way to find out about these wines is by taking a fourhour drive to our winemaking neighbors across the border. The inspiring architecture and hospitality are reason enough to pay a visit, but you will find the wines are worth the trip. If you are looking to fill spots on your list with rustic, unique blends, you may need to look no further than down south.
C
hile put Latin American wines on the map about 30 years ago and it was about 20 years ago when Chile began to be recognized as home to world-class growing regions. At the same time, Argentina started exporting thousands of cases of Malbec to the US, and we have not stopped drinking them. Wines from these countries are not only food-friendly and delicious, but are also a great value. World-renowned vintners from Europe and the U.S. recognized not only the incredible terrior in Latin American countries but the cheap land. Some of the most beautiful, state-of-the-art and eco-friendly wineries exist down south because the land and labor were so affordable. What we as consumers get in return is wine of great quality and val-
Getty Images
ue. There are also some families that have been tending to vines in Chile and Argentina and passing down land for generations, adding to the cost-effective nature of producing their wines. A bit closer to home, you will find a newer growing region called Valle de Guadalupe, in Baja California. Although wine has been made here since the 1600’s, it wasn’t until recently (the last 15 years), that growers and winemakers have honed in on the varietals that are best suited for the region. Therefore, it is considered a young growing region. Wines of exceptional quality are coming from Valle de Guadalupe, but you may not find a whole lot of value-priced wines. The valley is still considered to be in its youth and production is expensive when starting out.
by SONYA KELSEN Co-founder/Owner, Colony Wine Merchant & Promenade Pub NICKNAME “Boss Lady.” HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 20 years. FAVORITES: BEER Depends on the day. WINE Depends on my mood. COCKTAIL Old Fashioned, at the moment. COCKTAIL creation Silver tequila straight out of the freezer.
MAY | JUNE 2018 | www.great-taste.net
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THE BIZ
RAISING THE BAR
More Than Agave
cocktails by CESAR CERRUDO
Somos Uno Barrel-Aged Cocktail 1 oz 1 1/4 oz 3/4 oz
Viejo Tonel Pisco Italia Mestizo Mezcal Silver Tenuta Tamburnin Vermouth
INSTRUCTIONS 1 Bar Spoon Fernet Vallet Mexican Liquor Add all ingredients into a Mixing Glass. With a Bar Spoon, stir for about 30 seconds. Place the mixed cocktail into a Whiskey Barrel (Leave cocktail in the barrel for 30 days). We bottle the cocktail in small bottles, wrapped and topped with a small hat. When it’s time for a drink, pour over a hand carved ice cube in a bucket glass. Cheers!
photos by Irving Barcenas
Sinaloa In A Glass (pictured)
“MODERN LATIN” HOLDS DIFFERENT MEANING TO EVERYONE. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM RELATED TO WORK?
2 oz 1 1/4 oz 1 oz 1/2 oz Small plate 3
The modern Latin way of dining and cock-tailing has really evolved. Not only do we drink Agave spirits, but Latin American spirits such as Pisco (Viejo Tonel) from Peru, and Mexican Oaxacan Rum (Paranubes) are on the fast-track with many new Latin discoveries.
INSTRUCTIONS Add all ingredients into a shaker. Shake fiercely. Rim coupe glass with Aguachile salt. After shaking all ingredients, pour into the glass. Add ice and garnish with thin sliced cucumbers.
BAR MANAGER, CESAR CERRUDO EL MERCADO MODERN CUISINE
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Cucumber-Infused Tequila House Serrano Liquor Lime Juice – freshly squeezed Passion Fruit Cucumber Ginger Syrup Aguachile Salt – for glass rim Cucumber Slices – thinly sliced
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