Great Taste Magazine 2018 November December Issue by Great Taste Magazine

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 271 Tucson, AZ

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018

FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENT Teri Williams

F E AT U R E S

Publisher, Proprietor

10 THE BIG EASY

& Chief Editor

22 CHEF SCOOP

teri@great-taste.net

TERI’S TAKE

ere at home, many local, predominantly seafood restaurants touch on Louisiana cuisine. Others give it a big kiss, while others, mostly Creole restaurants, fully embrace the cuisine. In this issue, we present a few of the delicious options for Cajun and Creole dishes on the menu in Southern California establishments. We’ve included bushels of tasty tidbits, but we’ve not even touched on the “seafood boil” craze that has exploded in the area, or the few restaurants that offer Cajun and Creole dishes made in steam kettles. Perhaps another issue. In Spring, I was lucky enough to visit New Orleans and find out first-hand what it is about “all that jazz”. It was worth the visit, and it’s an experience I highly recommend. As you’ll see inside, it’s a city full of great food and industry professionals dedicated to service. Here’s to the industry pros! Cheers

D E PA R T M E N T S 4 PRODUCE PICK Blue Hubbard Squash

8 SEA FARM TABLE

Chef Ross Pangilinan

The Pepper of Choice

THE BIZ

9 CHEESE PICK

25 VIN

Boursin Garlic and Fine Herbs

Ready for Fat Tuesday?

RECIPES

26 RAISING THE BAR

3 BACON WRAPPED DATES

Discover the Sazerac

17 RED BEANS AND RICE 21 VEGGIE MUFFULATA 24 SAN MARZANO MEATBALLS 26 SAZERAC

Bacon Wrapped Dates by CHEF ROSS PANGILINAN — MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR BACON WRAPPED DATES 24 Medjool dates 12 Bacon strips - thick-cut and cut in half 24 Almonds Manchego - grated Almonds - grated 8 6” bamboo skewers - soaked in water to avoid burning Stuff an almond inside each date. Wrap each date with the half slice of bacon and place on skewer. Bake in oven at 350 degrees till crispy. About 15 minutes.

HARISSA YOGURT 2C Plain yogurt 2 oz Lemon juice 2 4 oz Harissa paste (2oz=mild, 4oz=spicy) Salt to taste Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Place baconwrapped dates atop harissa yogurt and top with a sprinkle of grated Manchego and almonds. Bake in oven at 350 degrees Fahrenheit till crispy. About 15 minutes.

ON THE COVER Chef Ross offers these delicious Bacon Wrapped Dates as a small plate off the menu or as part of his prix fixe lunch. Medjool Dates are stuffed, wrapped in thick cut bacon, skewered and baked in the oven. When crispy, they are served over harissa yogurt and sprinkled with grated Manchego and almonds. For more recipes from Chef Ross see page 26. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

INSIDE

PU B LIS H E R CH IE F E DITO R PRO PRIE TO R Teri Williams

E DITO RIAL CHIEF EDITOR Teri Williams teri@great-taste.net

PRODUCE PICK BLUE HUBBARD SQUASH BLUE HUBBARD SQUASH HAS A VARIETY OF DEBATED ORIGINS. James J. H. Gregory, the man who first marketed hubbard seeds, mentions two stories in his book Squashes and How to Grow Them (1867). The first, is about an elderly woman who told Gregory that she recalled tasting the squash when she was younger. The second story claims that Elizabeth Hubbard, who was Gregoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wash woman, obtained the seeds from a man named Captain Knot Martin. She then handed them over to Mr. Gregory. The best season to harvest Blue Hubbard Squash is in the winter. This squash is known by its huge size, funky shape, blue-gray color, and very hard skin that makes it especially long lasting in winter storage. The meat inside is orange, sweet, flavorful, and fine grained. This squash has a smooth texture with a nutty-tasting flesh. It is great for recipes for breakfast, dessert, pies, and soups. One delicious way to use this produce is to bake it, puree it, and add it to bread, pies, or even pasta dishes. It pairs well with chipotle, chili, cinnamon, nutmeg, curry, sage, and brown sugar. The Produce Hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and the propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. www.theproducehunter.com.

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CONTRIBUTORS Chef Gabriel Caliendo Frankie Di Iorio Sonya Kelsen Amanda Moreno Kristine Schneider

ART ART DIRECTION | GRAPHIC DESIGN Lisa Brink thebrinkcreative@gmail.com PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com

ADVE RT IS ING Advertising Sales Fred Burgess 714-960-0534 fred@great-taste.net GREAT TASTE MAGAZINE 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 PHONE 714-960-0534 FAX 714-475-5869 EMAIL info@great-taste.net WEB www.great-taste.net

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NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

INSIDE F E AT U

COOKBO F

RED

NEW ORLEANS A FOOD BIOGRAPHY BEIGNETS, POâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; BOYS, GUMBO, JAMBALAYA. New Orleansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; celebrated status derives in large measure from its incredibly rich food culture, based mainly on Creole and Cajun traditions. At last, this world-class destination has its own food biography. Elizabeth M. Williams, a New Orleans native and founder of the Southern Food and Beverage Museum there, takes readers through the history of the city, showing how the natural environment and the people have shaped the cooking we all love. The narrative starts by describing the indigenous population and material resources, then reveals the contributions of the immigrant populations, delves into markets and local food companies, and finally discusses famous restaurants, drinking culture, cooking at home, and cookbooks, and signature foods dishes. This must-have book will inform and delight food aficionados and fans of the Big Easy itself. To purchase this and many additional titles, visit www.great-taste.net/products

ADVENTURES IN DESIGN www.TheBrinkCreative.com contact LISA BRINK at TheBrinkCreative@gmail.com 562-201-0553

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THE PEPPER OF CHOICE The main difference between Louisianaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cajun and Creole cooking can be defined by the spice level. Both foods lean on garlic, herbs and black pepper as a base to their foods. Creole cuisine, formulated in urban areas, takes on a subtle approach and is usually less spicy. Cajun cuisine is generally more robust and spicier and originates from the rural areas. When Cajuns want to develop that flavor, they usually lean on one item more than anything else: The Pepper of Choice. Regions that run along the equator have been known to consume spicy peppers for centuries. The compound called capsaicin causes us to sweat when consumed, thereby creating a natural cooling process as the sweat evaporates off of our bodies. One of the most popular and well-known chili peppers in the world is Cayenne. Where does it come from? How is it used? The cayenne pepper is a hot, red chili pepper with a Scoville unit measure of 30,00050,000. The Scoville unit measures the spiciness or heat level of a pepper. As a gauge: bell peppers have a zero while habanero peppers have a 300,000 Scoville unit measure. The cayenne pepper is named for the Cayenne region in French Guiana on the northeast coast of South America. Cayenne also goes by the names Guinea Spice, bird pepper, or Aleva. This pepper has been cultivated for over seven thousand years in South America and initially was used as a decorative item. Later it was used for eating and medicine. Today, Cayenne pepper is most commonly used in its dry, ground form. Cayenne pepper is used in many Cajun dishes. It can season soups, sauces, stews, sea foods, poultry, dressings, and even desserts. Some of the most well-known dishes using Cayenne include Gumbo, Andouille Sausage, Crawfish Etouffee, Tasso Ham, and Pepper Jelly.

by GABRIEL CALIENDO LAZY DOG RESTAURANT & BAR VP of Research & Development, Corporate Executive Chef HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 27 years. FAVORITES: BEER Sculpin IPA. WINE Inkblot Petite Verdot. COCKTAIL Lemon Verbena & crushed Oranges with Vodka.

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CHEESE PICK BOURSIN GARLIC AND FINE HERBS THE FIRST BOURSIN FLAVOR, GARLIC AND FINE HERBS, WAS CREATED BY FRANÇOIS BOURSIN, a cheesemaker from Normandy, in 1957. It was derived from “fromage frais”, a traditional party dish in which guests would take their cheese and add herbs to flavor it. The Garlic & Fine Herbs Boursin Cheese is creamy, crumbly, and delectably spreadable. It is a modern, creamy, rind-less cheese that is made from pasteurized cow’s milk. The flavor profile is smooth, buttery, and herbaceous. This cheese can be used as a topping for a salad or pasta. The cheese melts well, making it easy to create a smooth sauce for pasta or chicken. You can also serve it as an appetizer and spread it on crackers, bread or raw vegetables. This cheese pairs well with a dry white wine or a fruity red wine. For more information about Boursin, and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

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THE BIG EASY Cajun and Creole

ew Orleans is a city of great chefs and restaurateurs where what I imagine as “southern hospitality” is prevalent at every turn. I visited a wide array of dining options, from a bar with a chef leased kitchen out on the bayou, to absinthe bars to burlesque shows, to some of the city’s most renowned restaurants. Never did I feel that I was the nine-millionth tourist to ask that same question. I came home with a better understanding of restaurateurs that are fully-invested and dedicated to the business. Yes, we have some amazing local restaurateurs here in Southern California, but for the most part, we lack the history engrained in families like the Brennan’s and other restaurants, grocery stores and bars that have been in the same spot with some same menu items for 100 or so years. I’m really glad that I visited Commander’s Palace. When the Brennan’s took over in 1974, the then dilapidated, Commander’s Palace, was already over 120 years old. In the early days, the predominant cuisine served in New Orleans restaurants was Creole. It was Ella Brennan at Commander’s Palace

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and her Chef Paul Prudhomme who “made it acceptable” for Creole and Cajun cuisine to meld on the plate. Locals and tourists mingle in the rmany dining rooms. Insiders order local dishes that aren’t on the menu and, when you have history, with Commander’s, you sign your bill and pay later. Steeped in hospitality and genuine love for the business, Chef-owned restaurants are plentiful in New Orleans. Just to name a few, there’s Nina Compton’s Bywater American Bistro and Compère Lapin, Isaac Toups Meatery or Toups South, John Besh’s August, the list goes on and we can’t forget Emeril whose career took off at Commander’s when he was a freshfaced, 24-year-old, and his four restaurants in New Orleans. I got some grief and I did wonder about using one of my precious dinner time slots to visit a restaurant with an outlet here in Orange County while in New Orleans, but we experienced an evening worthy of a rock star at House of Blues. James Beard, Chef Nathan Winowich and wife, Erika, also a chef, prepared one of the best meals we had in New Orleans. We dined with mostly a reasonable budget and it’s certainly possible, but I have to go back with a huge budget. There are so many restaurants I still need to try. Yes, I said need.

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GUMBO A THICK STEW DISH, IS A CREOLE SPECIALTY AND A STAPLE OF NEW ORLEANS CUISINE. The name gumbo comes from the African word for okra, a crucial element of the dish. Gumbo consists primarily of a strongly-flavored stock, meat or shellfish, a thickener, and the “Holy Trinity”. This dish traditionally begins with a dark roux and is thickened later with okra or file powder which is added at the end, once the pot is off the heat or roux. There are as many different kinds of gumbo as there

are cooks, ranging from gluten-free to seafood to wild game. It can be made with vegetables like okra, tomatoes and onions, or with meat or shellfish such as chicken, sausage, ham, shrimp, crab, and oysters. One famous recipe called gumbo z’herbes is traditionally made with a lucky number of at least seven greens such as spinach, collards, mustard, chard, turnips, cabbage, parsley or scallions, in addition to the onions, bell peppers, celery and garlic, and was usually served on Holy Thursday or Good Friday.

Crazy Creole Gumbo House

Make Contact 900 Long Beach Blvd., Long Beach, CA

www.crazycreole.com On The Menu

Gumbo: Choose from Seafood, Ya Ya,

Okra or Vegan Gumbo (pictured left)

Boudin: Cajun Pork or Crawfish Boudin

Sausage or Balls (Pictured Below)

Cowan/Turtle Soup: Offered as a special when

the meat is available (Pictured on page 13)

BOUDIN A TRADITIONAL FRENCH SAUSAGE IS STILL POPULAR IN THE SOUTH TODAY HOWEVER, most often you’ll find Boudin blanc, as Boudin noir has all but disappeared due to the health requirements related to pig’s blood. Boudin blanc, (white pudding in French) is traditionally made with pork, chicken, fat, eggs, cream, bread crumbs and seasoning and is lightly sautéed and served hot. Once the sausage reached Louisiana, the recipe evolved and produced a sturdier sausage, usually made with pork, rice and onions. This recipe for the sausage was meant to provide the most sustaining meal possible, using the fewest amount of ingredients. The rice in the boudin blanc replaces some of the meat, which was more expensive, but it still fills up the consumer as the rice expands in the stomach. The Louisiana adaptation of boudin blanc is a Cajun specialty and is also made in ball form instead of a traditional link. This variation does not use pork casings, but instead simply rolls the filling into a ball that is then battered and deep-fried, similar to Arancini.

Photo by Michael Rutt NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

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Ask A Crazy Creole I’m at the airport a few times a week picking up boxes of spices, herbs, rice, beans, etc. that we use every day in our kitchen.” It’s in the kitchen where Aliza Duplantier can be found creating the flavorful jambalaya, étouffée, catfish, gumbo and more while Guy mans the business of being in business.

Crazy Creole Gumbo House, owned by Guy Duplantier, whose family arrived in New Orleans in 1781, and his wife, Chef Aliza, features a lengthy menu of authentic dishes reminiscent of the bayou. Aliza, originally from Cambodia, learned side-by-side with Guy when they previously had a food truck. “Guests can’t believe that someone with my ethnic background can cook such authentic Cajun and Creole food.” Says Aliza. “My standard line is that I put the Asian in da Cajun. Most of what I make is the food you’d find in New Orleans, but I have been known to add a bit of my culture into the mix, too. I make a really amazing Asian Cajun seafood boil.” “I was born in California, but went to live near Louisiana family after high school,” said Guy. “What I missed most when I returned to this area was the food. When I opened Crazy Creole Café I knew that the only way it would be a success is if I used my family’s recipes along with ingredients from New Orleans.

ALLIGATOR Many trappers stopped hunting gator because there were so many farm-raised establishments, and since, a lot of trappers in Louisiana have gotten together to create a co-op so that it would still be possible to compete with the farm-raised. There’s a shortage of wild caught alligator in Louisiana, so sometimes we source from Florida. Good alligator has meat that is on the firm side, and the wild caught has a better taste. You can’t really tell the difference with wild versus farm when it’s fried, but side-by-side, wild is just better in flavor and texture. ANDOUILLE A lot of places at home aren’t the quality they used to be and the prices have gone up too. If we make it in-house, we can make it cheaper and have better product. It’s sometimes a challenge to find the sugarcane. Many producers use a binder as filler in sausages versus dry milk, but an old Cajun guy taught me to use buttermilk powder as it also adds flavor. You use pecan wood for smoking for a traditional flavor.

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TURTLE Creoles call it Cowan, Cajuns call it something different. There are seven types of meat flavor ranging from the white to dark meat in the shell, and old timers know the right combination to use for that good flavor. One guy I’ve worked with will ship whole turtle, shell and all, with the exception of the head. The freight costs for the whole turtle are unrealistic though. My dad had a delicious turtle soup recipe, that I strive to emulate. I’ve never gotten it though, and I’ve been trying to recreate his for years. Mine is good but not like his. Most farm raised turtle places went out of business because it takes 15 years to raise them. Most turtle is wild caught, frozen and shipped overnight. I prefer bigger in size and old age doesn’t really matter because the meat is butchered into smaller pieces and cooked low and slow. OYSTERS California won’t let you bring in oysters from Louisiana unless they’re sterilized. We source from Seattle, or the East Coast anywhere from New York to Carolina. When weather gets cold oysters are salty and delicious. SHRIMP Gulf shrimp are safe to consume, I have a supplier for wild caught gulf shrimp nearby. Good shrimp are shown in the flavor and texture; they’re firmer, have a sweet flavor, and have that good bite to them, not squishy. We usually

use white or brown shrimp; white is the dominant one. BOUDIN You say it like “boo-dah” or “boo-dan.” Back in the day they were good about using the whole pig and mix in the blood, but it’s changed now and mostly people just use the belly. I use chicken liver in mine and pork belly. I stopped shopping it because there was too much rice in it. The ratio should be 60% meat, 40% rice, not the other way around. We recently sent our boudin to Lafayette for the Boudin Trail so that it can be judged. Fingers crossed that it’s received well; then we’ll be on the map for good boudin. We sent it overnight fresh and are waiting to hear back. We serve links and balls: pork boudin, crawfish tail meat boudin, and the egg style. BLUE PLATE MAYO I’m partial because it’s a heavy-duty mayonnaise, it’ll hold up in a remoulade and other dishes. It has a better flavor, it’s thicker, and I’ve been using that since the start. CAMELLIA RED BEANS You can sometimes find them locally at Smart and Final, Food for Less or Albertsons, or smaller places like Miracle Meat Market in Compton and or London Market here in Long Beach, but it’s best to just order them. The flavor is very rich from the natural mud of Louisiana, so it makes for a really good red bean. It makes for some really nice, colorful food.

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TURTLE SOUP TERRAPIN, COWAN (CAOUANE) OR ALLIGATOR SNAPPING TURTLE FORM THE BASIS OF A TRADITIONAL SOUP, once popular wherever turtle was available, that is still popular in New Orleans. The soup is made with the meat of this fresh water turtle and served with sherry which is often served in a cruet on the table for guests to add as they like. The Alligator snapper can grow up to 250 pounds but most often weigh around 120 at harvest. The alligator snapping turtle is now endangered in several states, and hunting is limited to a stated “season” where still allowed; commercial hunting is banned but farm raised turtle is available year-round. A large snapping turtle is said to contain seven distinct types of meat, each reminiscent of pork, chicken, beef, shrimp, veal, fish or goat. Photo by Michael Rutt

Cajun vs. Creole “I think it was Cajun food. Or was it Creole? Oh well. You know what I mean, same thing…” History and food are rarely separate entities from each other. It’s generally beneficial to address the two in conjunction with each other, especially when determining the contrast between the terms Cajun and Creole… because there is indeed a difference. Cajun culture roots from the Canadian region called Acadia, where several French settlers grounded themselves before being displaced by British conquest. These communities

resettled and adjusted to the swampy regions of Louisiana, also known today as Acadiana. These people were resourceful and adapted to the land, which was demonstrated in their diet. Cajun culture is now generally found in the Southwest corner of the state. Much of Cajun cuisine begins with a variation on French mirepoix, aka the “Holy Trinity”, which serves as the backbone for many Cajun dishes. It starts with onion, celery, and bell pepper instead of the traditional carrot, and is built upon with paprika, plentiful amounts of garlic, thyme, parsley, ground sassafras, and

by KRISTINE SCHNEIDER occasionally green onions. Creole culture, on the other hand, is known to be a culture blend, primarily between French and Spanish. Creole people are commonly said to be the children of the upper class community that dominated New Orleans in the 1700s. Creole is described as French descendants who fused with Spanish, Native American, Italian, Portuguese, African, German, and Caribbean. Creoles as a group are generally thought of as more affluent, because they held a position of wealth in the established cities. This translated over to the food, which was

created by servants or slaves that had more knowledge and access to exotic ingredients and worked all day in the kitchens. Creole cuisine generally uses tomatoes while Cajun food does not. Plus, the roux is made out of butter instead of oil – also reflecting the affordability between groups in the 18th century. Creole gumbo, for example, mixes meats and seafood together, while also adding okra, making it more cosmopolitan due to their ability to vary ingredients. In short, some say Creole is food of the city, while Cajun is food of the countryside.

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BEIGNETS BEIGNETS ARE ABOUT AS NEW ORLEANS AS IT GETS. This traditional yeast pastry is deep-fried and smothered in powdered sugar while it’s still hot. The name for this treat was born out of New Orleans’ rich mix of culture as the word “beignet” is French for “fritter”. Popular variations on the classic beignet are often savory, using herb or crab.

Ralph Brennan’s Jazz Kitchen

Make Contact Downtown Disney, Anaheim, CA

www.rbjazzkitchen.com On The Menu

Original New Orleans Beignets

EXECUTIVE CHEF DARRIN FINKEL

DESCRIBE YOUR CONNECTION TO NEW ORLEANS CAJUN AND CREOLE CUISINE? I found an interest in it during

culinary school. Emeril Lagasse, an alumni of Johnson and Wales, was one of the celebrity chef pioneers who inspired me. Now, through my 16 years of working at Jazz Kitchen, I have had the honor of working for Mr. Brennan and I’ve learned from him and many of our other Chef ’s in Louisiana. This cuisine has become part of my culinary passion. WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF HAVING YOUR COMPANY IN LOUISIANA? Along

with the creativity, passion and skills from the chefs in Louisiana and from Mr. Brennan, I have been able to take a great product and menu and have been able to create new twist to classics for the California pallet. New Orleans cuisine is rich in history and it has been exciting to recreate, while still keeping the traditional flavors. New Orleans cuisine has a very

specific flavor profile. Not everyone in the resort area or in California is ready for alligator or head-on shrimp. HOW OFTEN DO YOU GET TO TRAVEL TO NEW ORLEANS FOR R&D? This

year I have been fortunate enough to travel to New Orleans several times. It’s a great food city. The people are so passionate about the food. It’s imbedded in the culture. There’s so much history in New Orleans.

DO YOU THINK THE CULINARY BAR IS SET HIGHER FOR YOU SINCE YOUR HEADQUARTERS IS IN LA? We definite-

ly have a certain standard working for Mr. Brennan and we want to live up to that standard. We want to represent the true Southern hospitality you find in New Orleans here at Jazz Kitchen.

WHAT INGREDIENTS DO YOU PROCURE FROM LOUISIANA? Seafood like

crawfish and shrimp from the gulf. The great thing is that our purveyors have a lot of the product available for us. At times alligator is available so it keeps things fun and interesting when experimenting with new menu recipes.

WHAT IS THE MOST POPULAR ITEM ON THE MENU? Pasta Jambalaya. It’s been on

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the menu since day one and is our most popular Item. It has great ingredients like Gulf shrimp, andouille sausage and chicken. It’s a great take on a Cajun classic. WHAT IS THE MOST POPULAR DRINK ON THE MENU ASSOCIATED WITH NEW ORLEANS? The Hurricane. It tastes

great, it packs a punch and is a New Orleans staple.

HOW MANY BEIGNETS DO YOU TYPICALLY SERVE EACH WEEK FROM THE EXPRESS KITCHEN? 26,000-28,000 a

slow week.

HOW MANY BEIGNETS DO YOU TYPICALLY SERVE EACH WEEK FROM THE RESTAURANT? Average 3,000 a week

(dine in only) not including beignets for special events.

ANY TIPS OR COMMENTS TO ADD?

Anyone from New Orleans will tell you one of the most important ingredients in Cajun/Creole cuisine is love and putting your passion in the food. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE LOUISIANA BRAND OF HOT SAUCE? Crystal hot

sauce. It’s got a bite to it and a good balance of flavor. We add some honey and spices for our Cajun wings. I love the aroma when they hit the window

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THE BIG EASY

CHARBROILED OYSTERS

Photo Credit: Creole House, New Orleans

OYSTERS ARE ADORED THROUGHOUT THE COAST, SWAMPLANDS, AND PARISHES OF LOUISIANA, and rightfully so. These scrumptious morsels deliver a sweet and lightly briny flavor of the Gulf ’s coastal waters. Although they are largest from October to April, Louisiana oysters are available in every season. CajunGrocer.com will even ship them to you.

Charbroiled Oysters are few and far between here in Southern California. Roe Express in Belmont Shore offers the delicacy and our friend at Crazy Creole Gumbo House in Long Beach has a new menu item in R&D but as of press time, they weren’t perfected yet. If you’re in the area known as Little New Orleans, Jefferson Park area of Los Angeles, you can find them at Harold & Belle’s Restaurant where they’re served with house-made Bayou Butter.

EDITOR’S NOTE Not a big fan of bivalves myself, I got my New Orleans introduction to Charbroiled Oysters at Creole House Restaurant and Oyster Bar on Canal Street and fell in love. Were lucky to sit at the shuck/grill section of the bar where we learned and tasted our way through the menu and later discovered and sampled many charbroiled oysters including those at Acme Oyster Bar. Of course I did.

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RED BEANS AND RICE

THIS HEARTY DISH IS A HISTORIC MONDAY NIGHT FAVORITE— made with the leftover pork bones from Sunday dinner—and isn’t prepared the same way in any one home or restaurant kitchen across the region. One of New Orleans’s most famous former residents, Louis “Satchmo” Armstrong, was such a fan of the stuff that he used to sign off his letters “Red Beans and Ricely Yours”.

EDITOR’S NOTE Back in the day, Monday was chosen as “Red Beans and Rice Day” because it was also Laundry Day. As the fires were stoked all day long to heat the wash water, the dinner could use the same heat and be tended all day. In many southern states, Monday remains the day. On our recent trip to New Orleans we found a delicious rendition of the dish at Barcadia, a bar on Tchoupitoulas Street that couldn’t be beat. We tried numerous dishes on our six remaining days. Many days, restaurants and meals later, we were unable to find a dish as good. You know me! When I returned from my outstanding vacation I had to have that recipe. Just like the amazing hospitality pro’s we met in the city, Chef Kate Chiarot Wright promptly responded with the following recipe, image and big smile. Enjoy!

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3 T Butter 2 Onion – medium-sized, diced 1 Green bell pepper – diced 1 Red bell pepper – diced 3 Celery stalk – diced 2 Garlic clove – minced 1 Smoked sausage – DD brand, cut into bite-size chunks Dried red kidney beans – 1 qt Camellia brand, rinsed 3 T Cajun seasoning – Slap Yo Mamma brand or other 1 t Crystal Hot Sauce Water – as needed

INSTRUCTIONS In a 2-gallon, heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add onion, bell peppers, celery, and garlic; sauté until the veggies are slightly softened and a little bit brown for about 8 minutes. Add sausage and sauté for another 2 minutes. Add dried beans and enough water so that the beans are covered by about 4 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, and cook for at least 3 hours, or until the beans are tender. If needed, add water during cooking to keep to beans moist, but be careful not to add too much, or the beans will be soupy. Using a wire whisk or a slotted spoon, mash some of the red beans against the side of the pot to give your beans a creamy texture. Season with Cajun seasoning and hot sauce. Serve over freshly steamed rice and garnish with sliced green onion.

ANDOUILLE (an-doo-ee) is a smoky, spicy pork sausage made from the chitterlings and tripe of the pig. This sausage came to New Orleans from its French origins and is now considered a Cajun specialty. BOUDIN (bou-daan) A Cajun smoked sausage containing rice and meat, typically pork. Boudin is ubiquitous across Cajun Country, and you can get some at nearly every stop including convenience stores and gas stations. CALAS (kah-lah) “Calas, belles calas, tout chauds” is the street cry associated with the sweet and creamy rice fritter known as the calas. CREOLE MUSTARD Used in many poboys, Creole remoulade sauce and many other dishes. It is a coarsely ground preparation of brown mustard seeds and vinegar, similar to the French moutarde à l’ancienne or German mustard. DEBRIS (day-bree) One of the more delicious substances ever imagined by a carnivore. Debris is morsels of meat and crusty char that fall from beef as it’s roasting, all of it coated in the meat’s rendered fat. ÉTOUFFÉE (étouf·fée) A Cajun/Creole entrée containing seafood (usually crawfish), tomatoes and roux, served over rice. Étouffée, a French word meaning “smothered,”

involves a lighter roux than gumbo. GRILLADES (gree-yad) Pan-fried veal, pork or steak with vegetables and spices, served with roux based tomato sauce over grits. GUMBO (gum·bo) A stew made with roux, rice, meat or seafood, filé powder and okra. There are too many variations of gumbo to count, and it can be found all over the state. JAMBALAYA (jam·ba·laya) A dish made with rice, vegetables, meats such as chicken and andouille sausage, and trinity (a combination of chopped celery, bell peppers and onions). OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER Invented at Antoine’s Restaurant by Jules Alciatore in 1899. The story goes that the very restaurant routinely served snails baked or broiled in sauce in snail dishes. A shortage of snails prompted the substitution of local, fresh oysters treated in the manner of the snails. The rich sauce was named after the richest person of the day, John D Rockefeller. PO’BOY (po’·boy) A submarine sandwich consisting of meat, lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayonnaise, held together within two halves of flaky, soft French bread. PRALINE (pra·line) A Creole candy made with pecans, sugar, brown sugar and butter.

ROUX (rü) A creamy mixture of oil, butter or fat, and flour. Roux is one of the main ingredients in gumbo, and there are about as many versions of it as there are those making it. REMOULADE (ray·muh·lahd) Creole remoulade is not a mayonnaise-based sauce like the French version. This lemony sauce is made with Creole mustard, horseradish, capers, parsley, onions, celery, cayenne pepper, and oil. Often served as an accompaniment to shrimp and fried green tomatoes. SAZERAC (sæz· ·ræk) A New Orleans-born cocktail containing rye whiskey, bitters, Herbsaint and lemon peel. TRINITY (trin·ity·e) Creole mirepoix of chopped celery, onions and bell pepper. Sometimes called the holy trinity, the name reflects the Roman Catholic heritage of the city. Garlic, often added to the trinity, is called the “pope.” YA-KA-MEIN (ya·k ·me) A soup typically containing beef brisket or pork, a hardboiled egg, green onions and spaghetti noodles, found almost exclusively in New Orleans. e

by KATE CHIAROT WRIGHT, BARCADIA, NEW ORLEANS (PICTURED LEFT)

Louisiana Lingo

Red Beans and Rice

Sources www.louisianatravel.com

New Orleans – A Food

Biography by Elizabeth M.

Williams

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

TRENDING

JAMBALAYA JAMBALAYA IS BOTH A CAJUN AND CREOLE DISH. The dish was originally made from leftovers mixed in with a healthy amount of rice. The Creole version of jambalaya, or red jambalaya, is made with tomatoes, while Cajun jambalaya, or brown jambalaya, is made without tomatoes. The etymology of the word jambalaya may be connected to the Spanish or French words for ham, mixed with an African word for rice. When combined, the word created would be “jamonyaya” which probably evolved into the modern word “jambalaya”. Ingredients for jambalaya vary in old recipe books and historical findings because of the availability of ingredients in different seasons. Jambalaya can be made with or without tomatoes, with shellfish or with meat depending on what is fresh at the moment. Of course, jambalaya is always made with rice, a delicious blend of spices, and is served hot to the lucky person who will consume it.

Iva Lee’s

Make Contact 555 N El Camino Real, San Clemente, CA

www.ivalees.com On The Menu

Jambalaya with Rock Shrimp, Chicken &

Andouille Sausage

PROPRIETOR LISA WAGONER

DESCRIBE YOUR CONNECTION TO NEW ORLEANS CUISINE? Iva Lee, my

beloved grandmother was born and raised in the south. She came from a long line of Southern women who traditionally passed down their recipes since their arrival to America in 1640. My favorite memories were watching grandma cook in her kitchen. Like many southern ladies before her, grandma took pride in preparing and 18

serving delicious meals for the enjoyment of family & welcome friends. I was raised on grits, gumbo, okra, frog legs, biscuits, jambalaya, pecan pie and gumbo. HOW OFTEN DO YOU GET TO TRAVEL TO NEW ORLEANS FOR R&D? I have

been fortunate to travel to New Orleans 16 times so far. One of my favorite times to go is during the Jazz Festival.

WHAT INGREDIENTS DO YOU PROCURE FROM LOUISIANA? We fly in our

Andouille Sausage from a Smoke House in St. John’s Parish in La Place Louisiana and our Crawfish from a 1,500 acre farm in Branch, Louisiana. We also fly in Community Community Coffee’s Chicory Coffee to make our chicory coffee creme brulees and we serve Abita Brewing Company’s Amber on Tap. We fly in the Andouille Sausage because the “andouille” sausage made in California is only seasoned with Cajun flavoring. We get our

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018

Andouille from a Smoke House where it is triple smoked in Pecan Wood. WHAT CHARACTERISTICS MAKE A JAMBALAYA, STAND OUT? The triple

smoked andouille sausage has a big flavor impact along with our house made creole spices, trinity mix and crawfish.

WHAT IS THE MOST POPULAR ITEM ON THE MENU? Iva Lee’s opened in June

2002. Jambalaya has been on the menu since the day we opened and it is the most popular entrée we make. WHAT IS THE MOST POPULAR DRINK ON THE MENU ASSOCIATED WITH NEW ORLEANS? The most popular

drink at Iva Lee’s is our Iva’s Hurricane. It’s similar to the Hurricane’s served at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar built in 1722 on Bourbon Street in New Orleans made with Southern Comfort, orange juice, pineapple juice, dark rum with Grenadine, cherry and orange.

TRENDING

THE BIG EASY

NEW ORLEANS STYLE BARBECUE SHRIMP NEW ORLEANS BARBECUE SHRIMP HAS ACTUALLY VERY LITTLE TO DO WITH BARBECUE. Popular in Louisiana, the dish refers to sautéed shrimp in a Worcestershire-spiked butter sauce. Typically made with an insane amount of butter, the shrimp are served shell-on so you eat with your hands.

Mar’sel at Terranea Oceanfront Resort

Make Contact 100 Terranea Way Rancho Palos Verdes, CA 90275

www.destinationhotels.com/terranea On The Menu

New Orleans Style BBQ Shrimp Appetizer

rosemary english muffin

CHEF DE CUISINE ANDREW VAUGHAN

WERE YOU BORN IN LOUISIANA? Yes, born and bred. My ethnic roots are Cajun, French, and Welsh WHERE DID YOU COOK PROFESSIONALLY IN NEW ORLEANS? Started cook-

ing at Mike’s on the Avenue then did a stint with Dominique Macquet at the Maison Dupuy hotel. I spent 5 years as the Sous Chef for Emeril Lagasse at Nola Restaurant and worked with Jonathan Wright in The Grill Room at the Windsor Court Hotel.

WHY AND WHEN DID YOU LEAVE NEW ORLEANS? I left due to the effects of

Hurricane Katrina (lost my home)

WOULD YOU EVER CONSIDER LIVING BACK IN NEW ORLEANS OR LOUISIANA AGAIN? I have strong roots in Los

Angeles now and love California’s produce and restaurant scene. That’s a tough question, New Orleans will always be home. WHAT DO YOU MISS THE MOST? The smell of Jasmine in April, the sound of the street car from my balcony, and walks down Royal Street.

WHAT PART OF NEW ORLEANS CUISINE DO YOU FIND UNIQUE? The layer-

ing of flavors, the blending of cultures, the sharing of food traditions.

WHAT DO YOU WANT THE CULINARY WORLD TO KNOW ABOUT NEW ORLEANS CUISINE? It soothes the soul. WHAT, IF ANY, IS THE BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION ABOUT NEW ORLEANS CUISINE? That it’s all very heavy

WHO DO YOU CONSIDER TOP CHEF OF NEW ORLEANS? I love everything Don-

ald Link is doing as well as Isaac Toups

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANT IN NEW ORLEANS? Upperline

Restaurant.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE AUTHENTIC NEW ORLEANS DISH TO EAT? I love

New Orleans Style BBQ Shrimp and a good pot of red beans and rice!

ARE GUESTS RECEPTIVE TO NEW ORLEANS TRADITIONAL DISHES? What I

tell my guests is this…… If you’ve been to New Orleans or even if you’ve never been just smell and taste this dish and it will take you there instantly.

WHAT DO YOU BRING FROM YOUR CULINARY ROOTS TO FINE DINING AT THE RESORT? Discipline, technique, tra-

dition, and a ton of fun stories.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

TRENDING

PO’BOYS AND MUFFULETTA POBOYS, AS THEY ARE CALLED TODAY, originate from the generous New Orleans, Martin Brothers of the Martin Brothers Coffee Stand who gave out these sandwiches to streetcar workers on strike in 1929. The sandwich name actually referred to the “poor boys” who weren’t making any money while on strike. Eventually, the name got shortened to poboy and the sandwich itself morphed over the years. Originally made of gigot-shaped bread and stuffed with leftover roast beef, gravy, or potatoes, the poboy became heartier and over-stuffed as it was popularized. While today there are numerous variations and plays on the poboy like banh-mi or vegan poboys, the classic recipe we know today still holds its own. Traditionally, this monster of a sandwich includes roast beef, fried shrimp, fried oysters, fried catfish, fried soft shell crab, ham, meatball or sausage. This sandwich can also be served “dressed” meaning it is additionally topped with shredded lettuce, tomatoes, mayo and pickles. New Orleans sandwich makers will often serve it to customers with all the fixings if they do not quickly speak up. Muffuletta is a specialty sandwich of New Orleans. Its origins can be traced back to the Central Grocery, where this hero-like sandwich was first put on the menu in 1906. The Central Grocery is still making their muffuletta today and it is argued that theirs is still the best. A classic muffuletta is made with a crusty, round, seeded, Italian loaf, layers of sliced provolone cheese, Genoa salami, and ham. This sandwich base is then filled with a mixture of chopped green olives, pimiento peppers, celery, garlic, cocktail onions, capers, oregano, and parsley, and dressed with olive oil, red-wine vinegar, salt and pepper. The unique olive mixture is what makes this sandwich special and authentically New Orleans. The bread loaf itself is also known as a muffuletta. 20

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018

TRENDING

THE BIG EASY

House of Blues

Make Contact Garden Walk, Anaheim, CA

www.houseofblues.com On The Menu

Shrimp Po’ Boy: Fried Cajun shrimp dressed

with seasoned mayo, lettuce, fresh pickles,

and tomatoes on Leidenheimer’s French

bread

New Orleans Muffaletta: Sesame bread

stacked with mortadella, Genoa salami,

Hatfield Black Forest ham, provolone,

Central Grocery olive relish and capicola

Available vegetarian style with roasted cauli

flower and marinated red peppers

Veggie Muffaletta by CHEF DE CUISINE JOSEPH CANTWELL

CHEF DE CUISINE JOSEPH CANTWELL

DESCRIBE YOUR CONNECTION TO NEW ORLEANS CAJUN AND CREOLE CUISINE? The first Chef I worked for was

from the south. He had worked at many well-established restaurants in New Orleans including Commanders Palace. I also have a close, childhood friend from Louisiana. I spent many nights and dinners at his family’s table where, at an early age, I discovered the cuisine. DESCRIBE THE BREAD NECESSARY FOR PO’BOYS AND MUFFULETTAS.

We look for a crispy crust and airy interior. The traditional bread for po’ boys and muffulettas is Leidenhiemer’s French bread. DO YOU GET IT LOCALLY OR SHIPPED FROM LA? We order Leidenheimer’s

Yield: Four Muffulettas 5 lb 6 C 96 oz 3/4 C 1 C 1/4 C 8 oz 3 T 2 T 2 C 1/2 C 2 T 128 oz 6 oz

Green olives Kalamata olives – pitted Giardiniera Capers Garlic – peeled & minced Celery - sliced thinly (less than 1/8 inch) Parsley - chopped Oregano Crushed red pepper Red wine vinegar Scallions Pepper – black, coarse Extra virgin olive oil Roasted peppers – 1/4 inch dice Leidenhiemer’s French bread

French bread through one of our vendors.

DO YOU MAKE A HOUSE-MADE OR COMPANY-MADE OLIVE CONCOCTION FOR THE MUFFULETTA OR USE ALREADY PREPARED? We make our olive

relish for the muffuletta in-house.

ARE THERE ANY CHALLENGES CONSISTENTLY PREPARING THESE ITEMS FOR THE LOCAL SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AREA? The challenges we face when

preparing these items in the Southern California area is the availability of the products. Also, we have found that most people have no idea what a muffuletta is.

PREPARATION Drain and crush the olives, giardiniera and capers Combine all of the ingredients except the olive oil and let stand for 20 minutes Mix the ingredients again, then add the olive oil and combine Add to Leidenhiemer’s French bread and enjoy!

EDITOR’S NOTE Since 1896, Leidenheimer Baking Co. has been producing fresh French bread for the New Orleans and Gulf South area. Their special production process also allows them to ship bread throughout the country while maintaining its crisp crust, airy interior, and wonderful flavor. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

CHEF SCOOP

EF SC O

* ORED B

Chef Ross Pangilinan

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018

Photo by Michael Rutt

rom a young age, Chef Ross was exposed to a variety of exciting cuisines, as his foodie dad enjoyed taking the kids out to a conglomeration of restaurants on a regular basis. Additionally, home-cooking was also prevalent in Chef ’s life as his grandparents would often cook up traditional Filipino dishes for the family. He even remembers his dad bringing home live blue crabs from the market in New York and cooking them for dinner. Chef Ross’s family also moved states a few times. Chef was born in Tennessee, lived in New York for a while, and when he was in the second grade, his family settled in California. It is no surprise then, that Chef Ross is influenced by a number of cuisines for his menus. His culinary knowledge expanded further after his childhood days of watching popular cooking shows on television. Chef ’s very first job was as a cook at Knowlwood. Chef attended culinary school at Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena for one year, finishing in 2002. After school, Chef Ross went to work at the Big Canyon Country Club where the head chef sent him to work in France. At 20 years old, Chef got to work at a two Michelin Star restaurant in Versailles for four months. This experience allowed him to further explore French cuisine. He also thoroughly enjoyed getting lost in Paris without a cell phone and being old enough to drink. When he was back in California, Chef embarked on a number of culinary endeavors. These included learning about sushi, which didn’t interest him, and helping open Blanca, which ultimately didn’t work out. In 2008, after these few minor setbacks, Chef began working for a Michelin Star restaurant in Downtown L.A. owned by Patina. From there he went to Vegas for a year to open Encore for and then came back to California to work at Leatherby’s for seven years where he served patrons of the Segerstrom Center for the Arts before shows and was on his way home by 7:30 p.m. As opportunities for chefs go, it was a very comfortable job, but Chef Ross gave it all up so he could create something new.

CHEF SCOOP

With help from a friend, Chef opened the globally inspired Mix Mix Kitchen Bar, soon to celebrate its twoyear anniversary. The restaurant’s success allowed Chef Ross the freedom to create another concept; Terrace by Mix Mix at South Coast Plaza, which just opened in early September. After getting a taste of freedom from Mix Mix, Chef caught the creative bug and wanted to create anoth-

er unique and diverse menu at Terrace. The new restaurant is cool, inventive, and precise, much like Chef Ross himself. From the menu and the flavors, it is clear that Chef Ross is closely connected to all the cuisines he’s mastered over the years. However, Chef is still humble, and continues to assert that if you dip anything in the right vinegar, it will taste good. Proper training of staff is very important to Chef

Ross and he takes pride in his staff’s ability to run a smooth ship in his absence. While Chef does work long hours, he also enjoys coaching his daughter’s soccer team which forces him to get out of the kitchen a couple of days a week. Chef loves to take his wife, son and daughter out to eat for family meals, giving his children the exposure to cuisine that sparked his own skyrocketing career.

From the Chef’s Mouth MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR 300 N Main St., Santa Ana, CA www.mixmixkitchenbar.com ESTABLISHED December 2016 HOURS Tuesday – Saturday 5 PM Sunday Brunch 11 AM – 3 PM AVERAGE COVER Dinner $50 Brunch $25

TERRACE BY MIX MIX 3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa, CA www.terracebymixmix.com ESTABLISHED September 2018

CHEF’S FAVORITES KITCHEN TOOL Bread knife KITCHEN APPLIANCE Vitaprep COOKWARE Teflon pan CONDIMENT Spicy cane vinegar DISH TO EAT Adobo JUNK FOOD Potato Chips RAW INGREDIENT Salmon FAST FOOD In N Out SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE Pork Cheek Adobo

CULINARY HERO Joachim Splichal - he is a great chef & business person

AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK Always working

CULINARY STYLE Fresh, flavor, good

BIGGEST CULINARY INFLUENCE Theo Schoenegger - he is an incredible delegator TRAVELED TO FOR CULINARY RESEARCH Europe OTHER CUISINES French & Italian

1ST COOKING OR FOOD-RELATED MEMORY My dad bringing home live blue crabs FIRST JOB Cook at Knowlwoods YEARS OF CULINARY EDUCATION 1

MANAGEMENT STYLE Fair, analytic, delegator YOUR LAST SUPPER Lomo Saltado & Chicha Morada CHARITY AFFILIATIONS OC Roosters, March Of Dimes

YEARS IN INDUSTRY 7 HOURS Monday-Thursday 11 AM - 9 PM Friday-Saturday 11 AM - 10 PM Sunday 11 AM - 7 PM

PREVIOUS INDUSTRY EMPLOYERS Patina Group / Wynn

ADVICE TO STUDENTS Put your head down and work HOBBIES Golf, Soccer Coach

IF NOT A CHEF A business man AVERAGE COVER Lunch $23 Dinner $45

MOST RECOMMENDED KITCHEN RESOURCE FOR FOODIES Viele & Sons

FAMILY Wife, Tara (Teacher), daughter, Madeline (5), son, Made (6)

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

CHEF SCOOP

Photo by Michael Rutt

Braised Meatballs with San Marzano Tomatoes by CHEF ROSS PANGILINAN

TOMATO SAUCE 1 #10 can of San Marzano tomatoes from Viele and Sons - blended Simmer blended tomatoes over med heat for 30 min, season with salt. 2 C Olive oil 2 T Chili flakes 12 Garlic cloves - smashed 12 Basil leaves In a separate pan, combine olive oil, chili, garlic and basil in small sauce pot and heat over low-med heat for 20 minutes (careful not to heat too much, just enough to extract the flavors into the oil). Strain the oil into the stewed tomatoes and whisk together. 24

MEATBALLS 1.5 lb Ground beef 1.5 lb Ground pork 4 Eggs 2 C Bread crumbs 2 oz Garlic - chopped 1 T Fresh thyme - chopped 1 T Fresh parsley - chopped 1 T Salt 1 T Pepper Preheat oven 350 degrees. Mix all ingredients together in large bowl. Place in fridge for 20 min. Using a 1 or 2 oz ice cream scoop, roll out meat balls on a non-stick or paper lined baking sheet. Place in oven till meatballs get browned about 10 minutes. Place cooked meatballs

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018

in a braising dish and cover with tomato sauce. Bake for 45 minutes. Served with grated parmesan cheese and chopped fresh basil.

VIN

THE BIZ

Fat Tuesday Any Day

hether you are celebrating Mardi Gras at your restaurant or having friends over for a big pot of Jambalaya, the wine matters. The wonderful spices of Cajun and Creole cooking don’t pair well with much, but pair perfectly with a few. Pair these dishes with off dry wines and your guests will indulge just as they would the day before Lent. There is nothing better than a little sweet with a little heat. For whites think Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Gruner Veltliner. Avoid full bodied oaky wines. Vibrant refreshing wine with a touch of sweetness puts the heat out of spice while enhancing flavors. Let’s not forget, these varietals pair perfectly with fried foods too. Now for reds, stay away from tannic wines as they will enhance the heat and acidity in your dishes. Your guest will be reaching for water instead of another bite of food or sip of wine. For those that enjoy light bodied reds, Pinot Noir and Barbera are great choices. If your party goers like full bodied

reds offer Zinfandels and warm weather Syrahs. The round, fruit forward quality of these varietals pair well with the robust flavors of the south. Regardless of the wine choices, the most important thing to do is indulge and enjoy!

SONYA’S RECOMMENDATIONS NINE HATS RIESLING, COLUMBIA VALLEY

Distributed by American Wines & Spirits THOMAS FOGARTY GEWÜRZTRAMINER, SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS

Distributed by Henry Wine Group SEGHESIO BARBERA, SONOMA

Distributed by The Estates Group ORIN SWIFT “8 YEARS IN THE DESERT” ZINFANDEL, CALIFORNIA

Distributed by Wine Warehouse

by SONYA KELSEN Co-founder/Owner, Colony Wine Merchant & Promenade Pub NICKNAME “Boss Lady.” HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 20 years. FAVORITES: BEER Depends on the day. WINE Depends on my mood. COCKTAIL Old Fashioned, at the moment. COCKTAIL CREATION Silver tequila straight out of the freezer.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018 | www.great-taste.net

THE BIZ

RAISING THE BAR

How the Sazerac Cocktail Came to Be by FRANKIE DI IORIO

n 1838, Antoine Amedie Peychaud, owner of a New Orleans apothecary, treated his friends to brandy toddies of his own recipe that includes his “Peychaud’s Bitters”, made from a secret family recipe. The toddies were made using a double-ended egg cup as a measuring cup or jigger, then known as a “coquetier” (pronounced “ko-k-tay”), from which the word “cocktail” was derived. Thus, the world’s first cocktail was born! By 1850, the Sazerac Cocktail, made with Sazerac French brandy and Peychaud’s Bitters, was immensely popular, and became the first “branded” cocktail. In 1873, the recipe for the Sazerac

Cocktail was altered, replacing the French brandy with American Rye whiskey, and a dash of absinthe was added. In 1933, the Sazerac Cocktail was bottled and marketed by the Sazerac Company of New Orleans. That same year, “Herbsaint”, a pastis, was made according to a French recipe. “Herbsaint” was so named for the New Orleans term for wormwood - “Herb Sainte”. In 1940, the Oﬃcial Sazerac Cocktail recipe was modified to use Herbsaint as the absinthe. Finally, in 2000, the Oﬃcial Sazerac Cocktail recipe was modified to use Sazerac Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey.

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www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2018

The Oﬃcial Sazerac Cocktail 1 cube 1 1/2 oz. 1/4 oz. 3 dashes

Sugar Sazerac Rye Whiskey Herbsaint Peychaud’s Bitters Lemon peel Pack an Old-Fashioned glass with ice. In a second Old-Fashioned glass place the sugar cube and add the Peychaud’s Bitters, then crush the sugar cube. Add the Sazerac Rye Whiskey to the second glass containing the Peychaud’s Bitters and sugar. Empty the ice from the first glass and coat the glass with the Herbsaint, then discard the remaining Herbsaint. Empty the whiskey/bitters/sugar mixture from the second glass into the first glass and garnish with a lemon twist. www.sazerac.com

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