GREECE IS_SOUTH AEGEAN_SUMMER 2022

T R A V E L , C U LT U R E , G A S T R O N O M Y & M O R E

Aegean Vol. 1 THE SOUTH

W W W.G R E EC E-I S.C O M

ISSUE #53 | ΑΕGEAN VOL. 1 | SUMMER 2022

ISSUE #53 | SUMMER 2022 TA K E Y O U R F R E E C O P Y

T H E CYC L A D E S A N D T H E D O D EC A N E S E I N A H A N DY G U I D E .

M E E T T H E STA R S : N OTA B L E S O U T H A EG E A N D E ST I N AT I O N S .

I S L A N D - H O P P I N G : N OT E S F R O M A S I X- DAY SA I L .

aegeanair.com

WELCOME

ISLAND IDYLLS

BY NENA DIMITRIOU

NUMBERS DON’T LIE : this year, the five in-

©MARIKA TSOUDEROU

ternational airports in the South Aegean received more than two million visitors by July 10 alone.

The Cyclades and the Dodecanese have seen a 24% increase in air arrivals over 2019, signaling Greek tourism’s strong return to pre-pandemic levels. Similarly, ferry services from the ports of Attica to the Aegean are seeing high passenger levels.

Whether you come by sea or by air, you’ll receive a warm welcome from those who call these islands home. They are hospitable and friendly people, even though they may have become unaccustomed to seeing their ports so busy, getting stuck in traffic on the few paved streets they have or having to wait for a table at their favorite tavernas. At the same time, happy as they are to have these visitors, they’re also eager to protect the authenticity of their small corner of the world.

On the Aegean islands, you’ll get acquainted

with a civilization that dates back thousands of years. There are ancient ampitheaters and sanctuaries, fortified medieval settlements and churches. Fans of mythology and history alike will lose themselves on the trail of their heroes.

But these islands also live in the present, and have an eye on the future, too. Three of them – Halki, Tilos and Astypalea – are implementing innovative sustainability projects. Others are home to yoga and wellness retreats. Some islands are party destinations, others embrace their local culinary heritage thus inspiring talented chefs, while a number of them are popular walking or climbing destinations. From drystone walls and terraces, windmills and sugar-cube villages to the neoclassical townhouses typical of the Dodecanese, local architecture will fill your Instagram account with color and charm. With so many beautiful beaches, these islands lend themselves to lazy days as much as they do to an active lifestyle.

The pages that follow are but an introduction to this fascinating part of the Aegean archipelago; there’s so much more to discover for yourselves.

We wish you the most memorable trip to Greece.

GET INSPIRED! Scan to watch the video of the latest Greek National Tourism Organisation advertising campaign. You will want to stay in Greece forever!

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CONTENTS G R EEC E I S — I S S UE#53 — S UMMER 2022

10 | DROP YOU R PI NS! An illustrated map of the South Aegean.

12 | DID YOU K NOW ?

A few cool facts about the islands.

18 | A L L A BOA R D! Our contributors share their acquired knowledge from their vacation experiences in the region.

20 | C YCL A DE S From Amorgos to Tinos.

42 | DODEC A N E SE From Agathonisi to Tilos.

20 DISCOV ER

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60 | PA ROS The crowd-pleaser.

86 | K I MOLOS No frills needed.

68 | T I NOS Island of miracles.

94 | M Y KONOS International playground.

76 | SA N TOR I N I Wine and wonder.

104 | A ST Y PA L E A Shimmering and sustainable.

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CONTENTS 76

112 | S Y M I A jewel in the Dodecanese.

120 | T I LOS Powered by nature.

128 | PAT MOS A landmark of Christendom.

136 | SA I L I NG Six days in the Dodecanese.

PUBLISHED BY EXPLORER SINGLE MEMBER SA Mass Media Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos, Athens, 18547, Greece Tel. (+30) 210.480.8000 Fax (+30) 210.480.8202

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Alexis Papahelas EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Giorgos Tsiros tsiros@kathimerini.gr DEPUTY EDITOR Nena Dimitriou nenadim@kathimerini.gr

68 ADVERTISING MANAGER Kelly Lorentzou klorentzou@kathimerini.gr COMMERCIAL INQUIRIES Tel. (+30) 210.480.8227 Fax (+30) 210.480.8228 E-mails: sales@greece-is.com emporiko@kathimerini.gr PUBLIC RELATIONS welcome@greece-is.com

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GREECE IS - AEGEAN VOL.1 - THE SOUTH is a publication distributed free of charge. It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.

ON THE COVER Illustration by Dimitris Tsoumplekas

SUMMER 2022

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EXPLORE

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pins!

I L L U S T R AT I O N : P H I L L I P O S AV R A M I D E S SOUTH AEGEAN

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Cool facts

Did you know...? ΒΥ GEOGRAFITNESS* I L L U S T R AT I O N S : P H I L L I P O S AV R A M I D Ε S

FIRST THINGS FIRST. There are many interesting facts to know about the South Aegean , one of the most beautiful regional units of Greece, which consists of the island groups of the Cyclades , just southeast of mainland Greece, and the Dodecanese ,

in the eastern Aegean Sea. Taken together, these two groups include 60 inhabited islands, each with its own seductive charm.

HARD ROCK. Absolutely everyone knows that My konos is the ultimate Greek party island, but very few know that it has its very own Stonehenge. We’re talking about the remains of two towers from the Hellenistic period, with an impressive portal made of stone blocks that have stood there for more than 2,000 years, just inland from Platis Gialos Beach.

JUST DO IT. If you’re a fan of alternative tourism, then a stop at Kalymnos is in order; it’s one of the best international destinations for climbing, hiking, and scuba diving. The island hosts a Climbing Festival every May, and people come from around the world to participate.

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www.mitsishotels.com

Cool facts A SEPARATION. The island of Telendos was once part of Kalymnos , until an earthquake split the single land mass into two separate islands nearly 1,500 years ago.

LAST EXIT. In Rinia , a tiny uninhabited island next to Delos and Mykonos, there’s a beach called Karantina (“Quarantine”) where you can find the ruins of a 200-year-old facility used to isolate the sick during plague and cholera outbreaks in the region. Nowadays it makes the perfect destination for a private day-cruise from Mykonos.

MOONSCAPE. Have you ever wanted to walk on the moon? If the answer is yes, then get ready for an otherworldly spot that might have looked familiar to Neil Armstrong: Sarakiniko Beach, on Milos , is a bone-white landscape formed by volcanic activity, with turquoise waters and million-year old fossilized seashells.

CLEAN ACT . There’s a small island in the Dodecanese called Lipsi where there’s not a single trash-can in sight! An extremely successful recycling program has been implemented there, and today Lipsi has the highest national recycling rates per resident.

WHO COUNTS? I know you’ve heard about everybody’s dream destination, Santorini , but did you know that once it was thought to have more churches than houses

and more wine than water?

FA L L E N GI A N T. Rhodes used to be home to one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Colossus of Rhodes, a 33m-tall bronze statue of the Greek sun god Helios. It was erected in the 3d century BC and it stood for about 50 years until it collapsed during an earthquake.

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. If you can’t decide whether you’d rather go to the mountains or the beach, then Karpathos is just the place for you. One of the most remote islands in the Dodecanese, it’s a place of contrasts, with lush green mountaintops and beaches with crystal-clear waters.

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D-MARIN LEFKAS D-MARIN GOUVIA D-MARIN ZEA

Cool facts DUMBO’S ANCESTORS. Did you know that Tilos , the seventh-largest island of the Dodec a ne se , is the last place where elephants existed in Europe before they disappeared from this part of the world almost 4,000 years ago?

YOU’LL L AVA THIS. Nisyros is another island in the South Aegean region that was formed by volcanic activity. The houses are made of volcanic material, and the island is even home to its own volcanology museum. Remember to buy some volcanic face and body mask cream, so you can give your skin a treat when you get back home.

WORLD TRADE CENTER. You might know Delos is the sacred island of the god Apollo, but did you know that, long before the rise of New York or London, it was a major commercial center of the world? Merchants from Europe, Africa, and Asia would head there to trade goods and exchange currencies.

MYTHICAL BIRDS. I know it sounds like we’re making things up but, on the island of Kos , there’s a place called the Plaka Forest where peacocks roam wild!

TRUE STORY. Around 800 years ago, some pirates stole a donkey from the Duke of Tinos and sold it to the duke of the neighboring island of Naxos . Upon learning that his beloved donkey had been bought by his rival, the duke sought revenge by trying to steal the whole island of S yros , which belonged to the Duchy of Naxos at the time. You’ve probably heard that “An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind,” but I bet you didn’t know that an island for a donkey almost caused a war in the Aegean.

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*The most popular geography knowledge community on Greek social media.

SUMMER 2022

LIDL_K

Summer starts

Γιατί καλοκαίρι χωρίς αντηλιακό δεν είναι καλοκαίρι. Ανακάλυψε τη μεγάλη μας ποικιλία σε ένα κατάστημα Lidl και απόλαυσε μόνο την καλή πλευρά του ήλιου.

A summer without sunscreen is not a summer. Discover our range in a Lidl store and enjoy only the bright side of the sun.

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All aboard OUR CONTRIBUTORS SHARE THE KNOWLEDG E THE Y ACQUIRED DURING THEIR VACATION E XPERIENCES

@LEDART

ON THE IS L ANDS OF THE CYCL ADES AND THE DODECANESE .

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Cyclades

AT A GLANCE

Amorgos 36°49’N 25°54’E

also its beautiful countryside, with impressive canyons, winding roads and quaint villages. Amid towering rocks, the white Monastery of Panaghia stands out like a sparkling gem. Below it lies the picturesque harbor of Aghia Anna, a wonderful place to swim. Head to the southern tip of the island for another great swimming spot, at beautiful Kalotaritissa Beach. On the way to the village of Aegiali, you’ll enjoy views of the exotic beach of Aghios Pavlos, a narrow strip of land flanked by turquoise waters. The landscape on the way to the beaches of Mouros and Ammoudi is different still. Put on a pair of comfortable shoes, take some water with you and hike the path from Tholaria that leads, after an hour or so, to the narrow bay of Mikri Vlychada. After your swim, head back to Tholaria to enjoy one of the most tranquil sunsets in the Cyclades from a table at one of the village’s eateries.

NENA DIMITRIOU

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (5.5-9 hours). Flight to Naxos or Milos, then ferry (1.5 and 3.5 hours, respectively), or via local boat from Naxos (4 hours).

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@INSPIRATIONGR/NIKOLAOS SISIOS

IT’S NOT JUST THE HIT 1988 film “Le Grand Bleu,” shot in part on the island, that drew tourists here; it’s

Anafi 36°21’N 25°46’E LOST IN TIME ITSELF, Anafi will teach you what it’s like to forget about the clock and the calendar.

Try the goat meat, cooked by Agapi, at the Astrachan taverna, dance on the tables at the Armenaki restaurant, swim at Roukounas, Aghii Anargyri or Livoskopos beaches, have drinks at Mylos bar in a traditional windmill, flirt until the morning hours at Madres bar and don’t leave the island without climbing up to Kalamos to enjoy the sunset or the sunrise from the second highest monolith in Europe.

VLASSIS KOSTOUROS

@SOUHOHO

* Ferry from Piraeus (11 hours). Flight or high-speed ferry to Santorini, then ferry (1 hour).

Andros 37°49’N 24°55’E ENDOWED WITH FRESH WATER – a rare bless-

ing for the Cyclades – Andros is an island that’s rich in natural beauty and in the unexpected joys it offers to its visitors. All you need is a car and the willingness to drive long distances; even in the middle of summer, you’ll be able to escape the crowds on some of the most spectacular secluded beaches in the South Aegean. Thanks to its size, the island doesn’t get as crowded as its neighbors. In addition to the noble Hora, be sure to visit some of the other villages, such as Korthi, Stenies, Syneti and Paleopoli; they’re all charming GEORGIOS LIALIOS and humble.

@ANDROS_SECRETS, @N_KALDELIS

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Rafina (2-4 hours).

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Antiparos 37°00’N 25°02’E THE BOHEMIAN FEEL and the cosmopolitan atmo-

sphere on Antiparos have a refreshing effect; stress evaporates from the first minute one steps onto the paved whitewashed alleys of the island, popular even with Hollywood stars. The sunsets are spectacular; the most impressive can be enjoyed from Sifneiko Beach. The deep blue sea is inviting, and the richness of the seabed is generously revealed with each dive. A one-day kitesurfing adventure is an ideal option for those looking for excitement. As for the best sunrise, that would be the one you enjoy after a whole night out at the disco La Luna.

ELINA DIMITRIADI

@ALEXIOU_CHRISTINA

* Ferry, high-speed ferry (3-5 hours), or airplane to Paros, then ferry from Pounta (10 mins).

Gyaros 37°37’N 24°43’E THIS IS AN ISLAND that was used as a prison for

political dissidents, first during the early Roman empire and then again in the 20th century. Today, Gyaros is at the heart of a protected area. Its remote location means that it’s a paradise for marine life, hosting dozens of rare fish and bird species, as well as the endangered Mediterranean monk seal, Monachus monachus. As a nature reserve, Gyaros is strictly off-limits to the public.

Permission to approach the island can only be granted for research purposes by the port authority of Syros. @NEK_TAR_IOS/NEKTARIOS FARASSOPOULOS

GEORGIOS LIALIOS

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* Even with prior permission, private vessels are only allowed to dock in certain bays.

Delos 37°24’N 25°16’E

you’ll be traveling back almost 20 centuries, crossing from a lively international tourist destination to what is, in essence, an outdoor museum. It was on Delos where, according to myth, the twin gods Apollo and Artemis were born. A prime pilgrimage site during antiquity, it was thought so sacred that nobody was allowed to be born or to die on the island; the ill were rushed off, and pregnant women approaching their due dates were sent away. Today, a tour of this UNESCO World Heritage Site is an unforgettable experience. There’s little shade on the island, so be sure to bring ELEFTHERIA ALAVANOU a hat and plenty of water. * Local boat from Mykonos (30 mins).

@TRAVELSCRAPBOOKGR/EIRINI FENGOUDAKI

THE TRIP FROM MYKONOS takes just 30 minutes, and yet

Despotiko 36°58’N 24°60’E

@ALEXIOU_CHRISTINA

TINY DESPOTIKO hasn’t had a lucky past. Recent archeo-

logical finds show that Paros, trying to rival the mighty rule of the Athenians and their “sacred” island of Delos, built a large temple to Apollo there, only to see it destroyed by the all-powerful city state of Athena. And then there’s the medieval account of the French pirates who slaughtered the entire native population, wreaking vengeance on the locals for surrendering a fellow Frenchman, the pirate Daniel, to the Ottomans. Despotiko has remained uninhabited ever since. Today, you can go enjoy its pristine sandy beaches by hopping on a small boat on DIMITRIS KARAISKOS nearby Antiparos. * Private vessel or tourist boat from Antiparos.

Donoussa AS THE NAME POINTING to the Greek word for vibrate suggests, Donoussa has its own special pulse. Chilling out on Kedros beach, and gravitating between the water and the bar, is actually an inner journey between the “can” and the “want.”

If Donoussa loves you, it will bring out your better self, rooting it out from the layers of discipline built up over the winter months. Every day starts at Stavros, the main village, with the sound of church bells and the aroma of freshly baked bread. At Livadi, there’s always some youngster to help you off the boat “Donoussa Magissa.” At its few but well-kept tavernas – in Avali, Ambelaki or at Kalotaritissa – the tomatoes smell like they’ve just AMANDA MICHALOPOULOU been plucked from the vine. * Ferry from Piraeus (7 hours), high-speed ferry, or f light to Naxos, then local ferry (4 hours).

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@OLGACHARAMI

37°06’N 25°48’E

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Folegandros 36°37’N 24°55’E FOLEGANDROS’ capital village, known as Hora,

in the Cyclades, will amaze you with its narrow cobblestone streets, bursts of purple bougainvillea, and whitewashed houses with blue windows and doors.

It’s picture-perfect and yet it’s real, with permanent residents. The medieval part of Hora, with its centuries-old structures, is the most atmospheric spot on the island, but Ano Meria, where the themonia – homes organized as small, self-sustaining agricultural and animal-breeding units – was born, has its own charm. The Aspropounta Lighthouse is a hidden jewel, nestled on the edge of a slope covered in wild herbs and flowers.

ELEFTHERIA ALAVANOU

© NIKOS KARANIKOLAS

* High-speed ferry from Piraeus via Milos (4.5 hours).

Ferry from Piraeus or Lavrio (9-13 hours).

Ios 36°42’N 25°19’E IN THE SEVENTIES, Ios was discovered by the

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus or Rafina (4-10 hours). Flight to Santorini, then high-speed ferry (40 mins).

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© SIME/VISUALHELLAS.GR

hippies; in the ’90s, the barflies took over. Today, its crowd is rather mixed and contains everything from high schoolers taking their first vacations without their parents to fine-dining aficionados. The island’s trademarks are endless beaches with honey-colored sand (Mylopotas, Manganari, Koubara, Aghia Theodoti and Psathi), its hundreds of white chapels, and the bars and restaurants in Hora. Its greatest – although relatively unknown – treasure is the archaeological site of Skarkos, near Hora, a well-preserved early Cycladic settlement that reached its peak around 2,700ELEFTHERIA ALAVANOU 2,400/2,300 BC.

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1. SILK MUSEUM (SOUFLI) 2. OPEN-AIR WATER-POWER MUSEUM (DIMITSANA) 3. MUSEUM OF THE OLIVE AND GREEK OLIVE OIL (SPARTA) 4. MUSEUM OF INDUSTRIAL OLIVE-OIL PRODUCTION IN LESVOS (AG. PARASKEVI) 5. ROOFTILE AND BRICKWORKS MUSEUM N. & S. TSALAPATAS (VOLOS) 6. MUSEUM OF MARBLE CRAFTS (PYRGOS IN TINOS) 7. ENVIRONMENT MUSEUM OF STYMPHALIA 8. CHIOS MASTIC MUSEUM 9. SILVERSMITHING MUSEUM (IOANNINA)

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Iraklia YOU ’ RE ON A BOAT TRIP , and out of the blue, the locals invite you to an impromptu seafood feast right on the beach. The food is cooked on the spot, on an improvised grill made of stones and reeds. Everything happens effortlessly. And if your host is Martin, as mine was, he’ll probably offer to take you to Hora, the capital village, to get a cheese pie or to the port for supplies.

Everyone here is friendly; in Iraklia, you’ll never get lonely. This island invites you to share your towel, your table and your time.

AMANDA MICHALOPOULOU

* Ferry from Piraeus (7 hours). High-speed ferry or f light to Naxos, then local boat (1.5 hours).

@DES_TINA_TION/KONSTANTINA PAPAIOANNOU

36°50’N 25°26’E

Kea

@PERIKLES_MERAKOS

37°37’N 24°20’E EVEN THOUGH ITS PROXIMITY to Lavrio port has made it a popular and easy getaway for Athenians, Kea is more than a weekend island. Because no matter how long you spend on it, it will reward you equally and more. You can explore the pretty, snaking streets of hillside Ioulida, the island’s capital, looking for the famous 6th-century BC stone lion with the cheeky smirk. You can go on an extended beach safari, like a modern-day Robinson Crusoe, taking the trails less traveled to dreamy and isolated strands like Sykamia and Spathi. Mostly, though, Kea invites you to walk, heading out when the sun is not so harsh. Whichever of its 81-kilometers’ worth of paths you pick, don’t miss the one to ancient Carthaea for a cleaning swim just below the ruins. ALEXANDRA MANDRAKOU * Ferry from Lavrio (1 hour).

Kimolos 36°47’N 24°34’E

food, Kimolos is a refuge and a seaside garden of earthly pleasures. You must try the local cheeses and the ladenia, the island’s simple but wonderful version of the pizza, hot and fresh from the traditional bakeries of the village. At Prassa Beach, the sand is white, the sea is turquoise, and there’s a bar, too. At Goupa, there is an elephant-shaped rock that will offer you its soothing shade, while at Mavrospilia the sunset has a mystical charm.

ELINA DIMITRIADI

* Ferry from Piraeus (7-10 hours). Flight or high-speed ferry to Milos, then ferry crossing (20 mins).

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Koufonisi 36°56’N 25°36’E A DIVE INTO THE WATERS of Italida Beach at Ano Koufonisi feels like a baptism of sorts. From the shore here, you can see Keros, a small island that was of great importance to the early residents of the Cyclades and to the ancient Greek world as a whole. Koufonisi has changed a lot since the days when the guests of the very first hotel, Finikas, had to ride on tractors up from the port but mornings on this stretch of sand still feel like nothing’s changed. Despite growing numbers of tourists, hotels and cars, this island retains at its core all the magic that you felt the first time that you came. amanda michalopoulou

@SPIROSSORIPS/SPIROS SKLAVENITIS

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (5-8 hours).

Ky thnos 37°22’N 24°25’E KYTHNOS IS LOCATED just two hours from Athens; even so, up to a decade ago, it was unknown to most Athenians. A Cycladic island that doesn’t look like one – it has more greenery, and a low-key main village that shares the attention of visitors equally with Merichas, the port.

The most atmospheric settlement is Dryopida, with its tiled houses and Katafiki Cave, and the most impressive beach is Kolona, where a sandbar divides the sea in two.

Hiking to Oria Castle, where wild capers grow in cracks in the rocks, is a good way to spend a late afternoon before an evening filled with traditional violin music and ELEFTHERIA ALAVANOU local dances.

@PETROS_KAMIN

* Boat from Lavrio or Piraeus (2-3 hours).

Makronisos 37°41’N 24°07’E MAKRONISOS (Greek for “Long Island”) is an un-

inhabited rocky islet with a sad history: between 1947 and 1958, in the aftermath of the Greek Civil War, it was used as a military prison. Today, the remains of the prison camp lend an eerie atmosphere to the whole island, which has been declared a monument. The island is accessible, by charter only, from the nearby port of Lavrio; despite its tragic past, it’s a tranquil spot with DIMITRIS KARAISKOS beautiful waters.

@PANAGIOTIS_TRAFALIS

* No routes in operation. Access only via private boat.

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Milos 36°40’N 24°25’E BEACHES OF AMAZING natural beauty have put Milos at the top of the most popular Greek destinations list, but it’s not just the shores that are charming. Any time left over from your marine explorations should be spent wandering the narrow cobbled streets of Plaka, visiting the Archaeological Museum, or stopping somewhere with a view over the bay for food and drink. Downhill from Plaka lie the settlement of Trypiti, the Ancient Theater and the Catacombs.

Not far is Klima, the most famous fishing village, with characteristic bright-colored structures that used to house the fishing boats during winter. Today, they’re available as perhaps the loveliest accommodation spaces in the Aegean – the crystal-clear waters are literally six steps from your bed.

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (3.5-8 hours). Direct f light from Athens.

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@CHRIS_KAP.21

NATASHA BLATSIOU

SUMMER 2022

JOHNP

www.johnp-shop.com John p. @johnp_shop

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Mykonos ON THE ONE HAND, there are Michelin-awarded restaurants, cosmopolitan crowds at Psarou Beach, celebrated art galleries, high-fashion boutiques, five-star accommodations and wild parties at bars on Matogianni Street and on beaches such as Super Paradise and Agrari. On the other, there’s picturesque Ano Mera with its wonderful tavernas, chapels of rare architecture and the secluded beauty of the sandy beaches of Aghios Sostis, Fokos and Kapari. The breezes on the “island of the winds” will fill your sails and guide you to whatever form of luxury you prefer.

VLASSIS KOSTOUROS

@STEVE_GORMLEY

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (2.5-5 hours).

Direct f light from Athens.

© GIANNIS GIANNELOS

37°26’N 25°20’E

Naxos 37°04’N 25°27’E A LARGE ISLAND WITH A LOT TO SEE, this destination needs more than one trip to do it justice. A

wonderful combination of natural beauty and history makes it particularly compelling. Portara, the great gate of the unfinished Temple of Apollo dominates the port of Naxos Town and is the island’s trademark. Naxos has golden beaches for every taste and unspoiled mountainous villages, each different from the other, where the traditions of the island have survived intact. Once the center of the early Cycladic culture, today it’s known for its rich agricultural production – with many PDO products, such as potatoes and arseniko cheese – which JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU local chefs put to great use in wonderful dishes. * Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (3.5-6 hours). Direct f light from Athens.

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Paros 37°04’N 25°09’E WITH A NEW AIRPORT and frequent ferry connections, Paros is first on the list of easily accessible islands.

Tourist development has reached even its lesser-known villages. The French community on the island is growing, and Paros is also attracting a number of digital nomads, since it has everything – beaches, good food and accommodations for every taste and budget. The village of Naousa remains the heart of the island’s nightlife. In its restaurants, you’ll find several local wines from the island’s six wineries, as well as international options.

The island is a little like those wine selections; local and cosmopolitan, and always intoxicating.

JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU

© SIME/VISUALHELLAS.GR

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (3-5 hours). Direct f light from Athens.

Poliegos 36°46’N 24°38’E POLIEGOS IS A MIRACULOUSLY pristine island that welcomes all visitors who respect its fragile beauty. The sole inhabitants of this island, which is located between Kimolos and Milos, are its goats and their shepherd, who stand proudly on the volcanic hills and the rocks that have been carved by time and the crystal clear sea into marvelous formations, and its squawking seabirds.

Access is possible only by private yacht. If you’re lucky, you might get to watch an unforgettable nighttime outdoor screening here, put on by the outdoor cinema from ELINA DIMITRIADI nearby Kimolos.

@PERIKLES_MERAKOS

* Private vessel or tourist boat from Milos or Kimolos.

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Rinia 37°25’N 25°13’E SOME OF THE MOST ICONIC im-

@PERIKLES_MERAKOS

ages of Cycladic beaches and emerald waters untouched by tourism acome from photographs taken on uninhabited Rinia, close to Delos. Anyone visiting on a private boat or on an organized excursion from neighboring Mykonos or Tinos will be enchanted by the unspoiled beauty of Rinia, its white beaches, its clear waters and the scent of dry grass and soil. An island that’s also an archaeological site, the findings from which are displayed in museums in Greece and abroad, Rinia was first settled in the 5th millennium BC. Essentially a satellite of its neighbor, Rinia was where the inhabitants of ancient Delos came to give birth or to die, as neither was permitted on their sacred island.

MAYA TSOCLIS

* Private vessel or tourist boat from Mykonos.

Santorini 36°25’N 25°26’E

gloriously otherworldly feeling Santorini gives you.

Its settlements, perched on the edge of hundred-meter-tall sheer volcanic cliffs rising straight from the sea, are places of unique, breathtaking beauty. In the village of Oia, you can enjoy spectacular sunsets and descend 214 steps to the old port to get a sense of the island’s glorious nautical past and enjoy fresh fish at the local tavernas. The lunar landscape of Vlychada Beach is unforgettable, as is a visit to the old lighthouse at Akrotiri and the awe-inspiring prehistoric town, preserved for archaeologists and tourists by the volcanic ash that covered it millennia ago. In such a setting, you could be forgiven for thinking, as you stare south in the direction of Crete, that, just beyond the horizon, King Minos and the Minotaur DIMITRIS KARAISKOS might yet be alive. * Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (5-12 hours).

Direct f light from Athens.

© ALBERTO LORA/UNSPLASH

EVEN THE SWARMS of tourists can’t undo the

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Schinoussa 36°53’N 25°31’E

@KATERINAKATOPIS/KATERINA KATOPIS-LYKIARDOPULO

A FAMOUS STOP on the Aegean sailing scene, this

Serifos 37°08’N 24°29’E LOOKING DOWN ON the best beach on Serifos, Kalo Ampeli, is like gazing at a picture-perfect postcard – everything is intensely vibrant. The main village, Hora, is a steep climb up from the sea. Walk around the old fortified part and enjoy evening drinks in the alleyways around the town hall. Hora’s gleaming white houses are clearly visible from the harbor of Livadi, where the ferries dock. The calm turquoise waters you find off the beaches of Ganema, Vagia and Aghios Sostis are quite relaxing; there are eateries at the ELINA DIMITRIADI first two of these.

© DESPINA GALANI/UNSPLASH

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (3-5 hours).

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island is becoming well known for its fava dish, made from katsouni, a rare pea legume. Sun-drenched Schinoussa has two settlements – Hora and Messaria – sparse vegetation and exceptional beaches. While tourist development has increased of late, other sources of income have not been completely abandoned – there are still locals involved in farming and raising livestock.

The road network is not very good, so it’s best to opt for a car instead of a motorbike or bicycle.

ELEFTHERIA ALAVANOU

* Ferry from Piraeus (7 hours). Flight to Naxos, then local boat (2 hours).

Sifnos 36°58’N 24°41’E THIS ISLAND HAS all the ingredients that make up

a Cycladic paradise: beaches with crystal-clear waters, blue-domed chapels and white-washed local architecture, picture-perfect settlements and a local gastronomic tradition that is arguably one of the finest in Greece (the many top-notch restaurants on the island testify to that). Be sure to visit the Kastro – a fortified settlement dating from the medieval period, built over the ruins of an ancient acropolis. There, views out over the Aegean are breathtaking – as are the orange skies at sunset as seen from the island’s port, Kamares.

DIMITRIS KARAISKOS

@DIMVLAIKOS

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (5-12 hours).

Sikinos HORA, A GORGEOUS VILLAGE suffused in light that serves as the island’s capital, will astound you.

Geraniums decorate the doorways of pristine white houses built in the traditional Cycladic style, and there’s a wonderful energy here, too, as there is on the whole island. Since most of Sikinos’ beaches are accessible only on foot or by boat, Hora is the place where everyone gathers, although this doesn’t mean it’s crowded. Follow the cobbled streets up to lovely Chrysopigi Monastery at the top of the settlement to enjoy some wonderful views. Another charming site on the island is Episkopi, a disused monastery that was housed in a repurposed Roman mausoleum. A stop at Manalis Winery on your return from the monastery is recommended. You can enjoy a glass of Monemvasia, Assyrtiko or Aidani wine while taking in tremendous OLGA CHARAMI views of the Aegean. * Ferry from Piraeus (10 hours). Flight to Santorini, then high-speed ferry (2 hours).

@APOS_APOS/APOSTOLOS APOSTOLOPOULOS

36°40’N 25°06’E

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37°26’N 24°54’E ERMOUPOLI, WHICH SEEMS TO RISE up from the horizon as your ferry approaches, enchants even be-

fore you reach its harbor. Its steep twin hills, elegant neoclassical architecture and air of faded grandeur make for a jewel of a town. Its present is as intriguing as its past: over recent years, countless creative spirits came here from all over to start afresh, adding much to an already active cultural scene. Festivals run through the summer, art galleries flourish and a unique café culture has taken root. Don’t miss Asteria, a row of jetties below the Vaporia neighborhood: a city swim with Ermoupoli’s Italianate houses as a backdrop is a quintessential Syros experience.

ALEXANDROS MASSAVETAS

* Ferry or high-speed ferry from Piraeus (2-4 hours). Direct flight from Athens.

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SUMMER 2022

@TRAVELSCRAPBOOKGR/EIRINI FENGOUDAKI

Syros

Thirasia 36°26’N 25°20’E

@VKZAVOSPHOTO

A SMALL PARADISE, unknown to most people, this island is only a stone’s throw from Santorini. As soon as you leave the small port of Riva, you’re in another Greece, one from a faded photo, rural and forgotten, and also extremely charming. Most houses in Manolas, the main settlement of the island, have courtyards full of flowers, and from here there are wonderful views out across the caldera. (Once, before the massive volcanic eruption in prehistoric times, Santorini and Thirasia were part of a single island.) In the deserted settlement of Agrilia, the Church of the Presentation of the Virgin still stands, its colorful decorations carefully maintained. On the island, hiking trails carved into volcanic rocks lead to old churches and monasteries, replanted vineyards and rugged capes. Down at the settlement of Korfos, the island’s old harbor, you can have lunch barefoot at one of its beachfront MAYA TSOCLIS tavernas. * Catamaran from Santorini (15 mins).

Tinos 37°34’N 25°09’E

@TRAVELSCRAPBOOKGR/EIRINI FENGOUDAKI

THE BEST-PRESERVED HINTERLAND of the Cy-

clades has more than 45 traditional villages, including Pyrgos, Kardiani, Volax and Triantaros, whose inhabitants have retained the folk architecture of their houses and many old customs. Paths cover most of the island, and farmhouses and dovecotes adorn a unique terraced landscape shaped largely by human hands. An island that spent five centuries under Venetian rule, it’s famous for its cultural events and its museums, but it’s also an island that produces, among other things, wines and beers that have in recent years won many international awards. The Greeks themselves are most familiar with Tinos as a pilgrimage site where supplicants seek the help of the Virgin Mary, and this fact may have been instrumental in saving the island from the rampant tourist development that other Cycladic islands have suffered. However it happened, Tinos has managed to maintain a reputation for authenticity, something many people seek in a destination.

MAYA TSOCLIS

* Ferry from Piraeus (3.5-4.5 hours). High-speed ferry from Rafina (1 hour 50 mins).

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Dodecanese

AT A GLANCE

Agathonisi NOBODY COMES to Agathonisi for a cosmopolitan, luxurious or edge-of-the-seat experience. On this island of around 100 residents near Samos and the Turkish coast, which celebrates the arrival of every ship, vacations consist of the bare minimum: some beaches with sand and tamarisk trees, two small villages and a couple of café-bars where you’ll enjoy tasty food made with local ingredients. Festivals with live music and traditional island dancing occur often. If you’re in the mood for exploring, you can spend some time at the Kastraki archaeological site, where entry is free. olga charami

* No direct connection from Piraeus. Local boats or catamarans from Samos (40–90 mins), Patmos (2 hours), Kalymnos (2.5 hours), Rhodes (5 hours) and other Dodecanese islands.

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@EGENINKARSIKIYISI

37°28’N 26°58’E

@KATERINAKATOPIS/KATERINA KATOPIS-LYKIARDOPULO

Arki 37°23’N 26°44’E LIKE SEAFARERS DISCOVERING a secret island is exactly how you feel when you disembark on the small

pier. Chances are you’ll be getting off your own craft, as this is how most arrive here, but you can get a boat from Samos or Patmos. Having a boat is useful here, as there are few roads. People, too, are scarce; there are only 40 permanent residents. What you will find in abundance are oleasters, olive trees, pine trees, cicadas and simplicity. The two tavernas use local ingredients, especially cheeses and meat.

OLGA CHARAMI

* No direct connection from Piraeus. Flight to Samos, then catamaran (45 mins).

Alternatively, a local boat or catamaran from Patmos (20-50 mins).

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Astypalea 36°33’N 26°21’E

@OLGACHARAMI

THIS ISLAND, KNOWN AS the Butterfly of the Aegean, does indeed look like one when seen from above.

Hora, the main town, is one of the prettiest villages in the Aegean, more like a Cycladic settlement than a place in the Dodecanese. The climb up to the castle takes effort but rewards with views. Astypalea has many beaches, and it’s easy to find that feeling of splendid isolation. Livadi Beach is large and sandy; Kaminakia Beach is better for snorkelers. Vatses is ideal for the sunset, and the islets of Kounoupes and Koutsomyti, accessible by boat, are surrounded by turquoise waters. Pebbled Tzanakia has a view of Hora, where you should head after your swim and grab a table near the landmark Moungos café for some people watching.

Here, you’ll see almost everyone on the island stroll by as they head out for dinner or drinks. N.B. Leave some room in your suitcase for a souvenir: a jar of ΝΕNA DIMITRIOU the island’s excellent honey.

* Ferry from Piraeus (7.5-11 hours).

Direct f light from Athens.

Halki THIS SATELLITE of Rhodes is one of those islands that casts a spell even before you get off the boat at the port, which in this case is also the capital, Emborio.

The coastal road runs in front of colorful 19th-century townhouses with uniform red-tiled roofs and wooden window frames. There are very few cars in the capital, and car traffic is banned entirely from 18:00 onwards every evening. You can reach the beaches of Pontamos or Ftenagia on foot, or take a tour boat to twosided Tracheia Beach, where you can decide on which flank of the peninsula’s neck to lay your towel. Make the one-hour trek from the abandoned village of Horio to the medieval castle, on the way to which you can see the ancient thrones of Zeus and Hecate. From the 269-meter summit within the castle walls, you’ll be rewarded with great views of the island and of southΝΕNA DIMITRIOU ern Rhodes. * From Kamerios Skala on Rhodes (50 mins).

Ferry from Piraeus (30 hours).

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@DES_TINA_TION/KONSTANTINA PAPAIOANNOU

36°14’N 27°33’E

FRAPORT GREECE

FRAPORT GREECE is celebrating 5 years of regional airport operations in Greece, having forged a dynamic presence in the country’s social and economic landscape. The company is looking forward to an equally creative and active role in the years ahead.

The first 5 years of the investment

It all started on April 11, 2017, when, following an international competitive tender, the company took on the responsibility of upgrading and managing 14 regional airports in Greece where there was an imperative need for a coherent plan for improvement and development.

To that end, a vast €440 million programme for modernization and remodelling of critical infrastructure was carried out at 14 different locations throughout Greece.

The implementation of the works continued unabated during months of high passenger traffic and despite Covid-19 restrictions, making the company achieve its contractual obligations 3 months ahead of schedule. The 14 regional airports were transformed into modern transit hubs, for tourists and commercial passengers.

One of the largest private investments in Greece

and an effective public-private partnership that has produced extremely positive results. A memorable milestone during these 5 years was the simultaneous opening ceremony for all 14 airports on 19 May, 2021, at Thessaloniki ‘Makedonia’ airport, which marked the official completion of the programme.

The company’s basic principle is to operate as a socially and environmentally responsible business, oriented towards sustainable development, while continuing to be the leading force in its sector.

Fraport Greece wants to constantly perform at the highest level, adapt to travellers’ needs, and substantially support every local community, working towards a better future for all.

At the heart of this investment lies the company’s unwavering faith in the great prospects of the Greek economy and the growth potential of the Greek periphery. This is why Fraport Greece is committed to forging ahead with its ambitious long-term vision.

The company remains committed to providing a high-quality and safe travel experience for all, enhancing the international competitiveness of regional airports. For this reason, Fraport Greece is not resting on the laurels of the successful completion of the airport upgrades, but continues to serve its long-term and ambitious vision with commitment and dedication. n

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ADVERTORIAL

CELEBRATES 5 YEARS SINCE THE LAUNCH OF ITS LANDMARK CONCESSION FOR 14 AIRPORTS

36°57’N 26°58’E BEYOND THE LOVELY beaches and interesting architecture that characterize Kalymnos, it is its cliffs and

rock faces that attract most people to the island. It is, in short, an internationally renowned rock-climbing destination. Hundreds of routes, most of them located around Armeos and Masouri, will keep you busy if you are a climber, or impress you if you’re just visiting. Either way, everyone ends up on a beach for a refreshing dip before indulging in plates of local goat or fresh fish, the latter caught by one of the largest OLGA CHARAMI fishing fleets in the Mediterranean. * Ferry from Piraeus (9-11 hours). Direct f light from Athens.

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SUMMER 2022

@KATERINAKATOPIS/KATERINA KATOPIS-LYKIARDOPULO

Kalymnos

Karpathos 35°34’N 27°07’E THIS ISLAND SIMPLY won’t let you get bored; it has lovely hiking trails, more than 100 beaches, traditional villages and registered historic settlements that look like illustrations from old books, as well as plenty of summer festivals with live music performed on lyres and Greek bagpipes; you’ll find it hard to resist joining in the fun and mixing with the friendly locals.

Make sure you swim in the turquoise waters of Apella or Araki, explore the ruins of Kazarma and visit colorful Olympos, where the local women wear floral headscarves and still use looms and wood-fired ovens. One of the highlights on the island’s calendar of festivals is the celebration at the Church of Ai-Yiannis in the ancient necropolis of Vroukounta (August 28-30).

NENA DIMITRIOU

© GEORGE TSAFOS

* Direct flight from Athens.

Ferry from Piraeus (20 hours).

Kasos 35°23’N 26°54’E

than its beaches and villages. Time-honored celebrations, vibrant local music and special customs have been preserved, against all odds. Lyres and violins, mantinades (rhyming couplets, often set to music) and special dances are part of impromptu festivities and church fairs. The local cuisine follows a culinary tradition based on old recipes. Try the miniature dolma (stuffed vine leaves), the delicious cheeses, the seafood meze and the homemade pasta. Chances are you’ll be offered one or more of these by the locals, who are generous and welcoming and consider visitors to be OLGA CHARAMI their personal guests. * Flight from Athens, one stop.

Ferry from Piraeus (21 hours).

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@DES_TINA_TION/KONSTANTINA PAPAIOANNOU

THE TRADITIONS of Kasos are even more moving

Kastellorizo 36°09’N 29°35’E

the Middle Ages, it became Kastellorizo when the Knights of the Order of St John built their castle, “Castello Rosso,” on top of the red rock that rises above the port. Unknown to most people, except for the tens of thousands of Kastellorizian expatriates in Australia and a few Italians who discovered it in the 1970s, the island was introduced to the international public in 1991, thanks to the Oscar-winning film “Mediterraneo.” The minaret of the mosque at the entrance of the port is a reminder of the Turkish occupation, but the colorful neoclassical mansions, the impressive public buildings and the churches bear witnesses to the great wealth that maritime trade brought to the island in the 19th century. Kastellorizo is a color, a dip at the port, elegant accommodation, a walk up to Aghios Georgios tou Vounou (“St George of the Mountain”); it is the peace and tranquility MAYA TSOCLIS of a swim in the embrace of the Blue Cave. * Flight from Athens, one stop. Ferry from Piraeus (21 hours). Alternatively, f light to Rhodes, then catamaran or ferry (2.5-5 hours).

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© GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGEΣ

PERCHED AT THE EASTERNMOST edge of Greece, Kastellorizo is a tiny jewel. Known as Megisti until

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Kos 36°50’N 27°13’E

on the island and taught at the Asklepion here, but Kos has much more than just this connection to offer its visitors. For years, the island excelled at package tourism, but today, thanks to its new airport, the restored central boulevard of Finikes in Kos Town and the constant improvements to the island’s restaurant scene, it attracts individual travelers who do not wear all-inclusive hotel wristbands. The more adventurous of these come for the excellent local wines and other food products, boat excursions, horse riding on the beach and cycling on the 12km network. The rest are more than happy to spend their vacation swimming in the bright JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU blue waters and sunbathing on sandy beaches. * Ferry from Piraeus (9-13 hours). Direct f light from Athens.

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@OLGACHARAMI

ITS WORLDWIDE FAME may be linked to Hippocrates, the father of Western medicine, who was born

Leros 37°08’N 26°50’E UNTIL A FEW YEARS AGO , a close circle of ini-

tiates were the only visitors here. The island has been spared all that comes with mass tourism, and with minimal night-life, it retains an air of small-town intimacy. The bay of Aghia Marina is one of the Aegean’s loveliest; it’s lined with old houses in bold tones of ochre, and the settlement is crowned with a Byzantine castle. The fascinating town of Lakki (Portolago), built from scratch by the Italians as a military base, was constructed entirely in the interwar Rationalist style. Mylos, arguably one of the best restaurant in the entire Aegean, lures day-trippers off their yachts ALEXANDROS MASSAVETAS – don’t miss it!

@EGENINKARSIKIYISI

* Ferry fromPiraeus (10 hours).

Direct f light from Athens.

Lipsi FOR YEARS IT WAS something of a secret as a holiday destination. But even now that the secret is out, Lipsi remains an island for people who don’t want much more on their vacation than a nice beach with a couple of tamarisk trees and crystal-clear waters. A certain cosmopolitan air has also been noticed in the past few years, as old local houses are being bought up, mainly by Italians. Lipsi is also known for the Fokiano grape, which traveled all the way to the Vatican back in its heyday, so you won’t want for wine, especially as there’s a winery here producing the stuff. It also has a traditional dairy making cheese and other delightful foodie stops. And as for the swimming, your choices are not limited to the island itself: take the regular ferry service out to Aspronissia, two tiny islets with beaches of smooth white stones and clear, turquoise waters.

JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU

* Ferry from Piraeus (9 hours). Flight to Leros, Kalymnos, Kos or Ikaria, then catamaran (20 mins-2 hours).

@GVERGADOS/GEORGE VERGADOS

37°18’N 26°46’E

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Nisyros 36°35’N 27°09’E HOW ABOUT A HOT walk inside the crater of an active volcano, with the strong smell of sulfur wafting about?

That’s just one of the surprises that Nisyros has in store for you.The others?

There are quiet beaches with black-red sand, the legendary Oasis taverna for meze and parties, raki and nibbles on Ilikiomeni Square in Mandraki, fresh fish in Pali, meatballs on Nikia Square with its pebbled mosaic, a walk through the wonderful alleys in the village of Emporios with its picturesque houses, and – of course – a boat trip to the swimming spots of neighboring Gyali, the island of pumice stones.

VLASSIS KOSTOUROS

@MARIKA_TSOUDEROU

* Ferry from Piraeus (12-14 hours).

Flight to Kos, then local boat (50 mins).

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Patmos BLESSED WITH SOME of the best beaches – Livadi and Petra are two of them – and one of the most stunning island capital villages in Greece, Patmos caters to a sophisticated crowd. Due to the venerable presence of the Monastery of St John, the island has shunned the noisy night-life and madding crowds which have taken over elsewhere. Many affluent Europeans, charmed by the austere beauty of the old town surrounding the fort-like monastery, bought and restored old houses here. They spend several months of the year here, giving the island an international allure.

ALEXANDROS MASSAVETAS

* Ferry from Piraeus (8 hours). Flight to Leros or Ikaria, then catamaran (50 mins).

© SHUTTERSTOCK

37°18’N 26°32’E

Pserimos

@MARINKA_PETRIDOU

36°56’N 27°08’E IF YOU’RE IN THE MOOD for a quiet vacation, this tiny island is just what you need. You won’t find nightlife or ancient sights, but you’ll swim off some of the most beautiful beaches in the Dodecanese. You’ll eat well, too; at Taverna Manola on Avlakia Beach, Giorgos and Maria serve amazing dishes using meat and vegetables from their own farm. Vathy Beach, a 30-minute walk through olive groves, has no restaurant but it does have generally calm waters. N.B. Don’t forget to buy salt and herbs. You’ll be helping the locals and providing yourself MARINA PETRIDOU with a great souvenir. * There’s no direct route. Local ferries cross from Kalymnos in 45 minutes.

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Rhodes 36°26’N 28°13’E

ture that makes this island unique. The medieval Old Town – a legacy of the Knights Hospitaller – is among the largest Gothic settlements in the Mediterranean to have survived intact. A walk along the arched alleys after dusk proves that it hasn’t lost any of its magic. Italian rule (1912-1947) produced some delightful architectural extravaganzas: check out the buildings in Mandraki, the Kallithea Springs and the ruined mountain village ALEXANDROS MASSAVETAS of Eleousa (Campochiaro)! * Direct f light from Athens. Ferry from Piraeus (13-18 hours).

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© GEORGE TSAFOS

BE GENEROUS WITH YOUR time here. There are miles of gorgeous sandy beaches, but it’s the architec-

Symi 36°35’N 27°49’E

wild prickly pears and the rich local cuisine influenced by the travels of the island’s sponge divers: all this is Symi. In Gyalos, its impressive port, you’ll see colorful neoclassical buildings that compose one of the most beautiful settlements in the Aegean. Most beaches on the island are only accessible by sea so it makes sense to rent a small craft, take a water taxi or join an organized boat excursion to visit them. Be sure not to miss Aghios Georgios Dysalonas beach, with green waters and breathtakJOHN PAPADIMITRIOU ing, 300-meter-high cliffs. * Ferry from Piraeus (15-16 hours). Flight to Rhodes, then catamaran or local boat (1-2 hours).

@SSIMOSS88/SIMOS KIOSSES

THE MONASTERY OF PANORMITIS, the delicious shrimp, the

Telendos

@OLGACHARAMI

36°60’N 26°55’E PEACE AND QUIET: this is what you’ll find on Telendos, as there are no cars here. Any sense of commotion here only lasts as long as it takes for the small ferry from Kalymnos to load and unload passengers.

Telendos, covering just five square kilometers, is ideal for hiking. It has a small port with a taverna, four or five beaches and ruins from early Christian times that lie, visible to snorkelers, at a shallow point on the seabed. The longest route you can walk is a 2km path that leads to the ruins of a Byzantine settlement, where you’ll also find a small church offering amazing views. The island also lends itself to alternative tourism in the form of rock-climbing, an activity that reveals OLGA CHARAMΙ a wholly different Telendos. * Ferry from Myrties in Kalymnos (10 mins).

Tilos EVERY YEAR, MORE AND MORE foreigners choose Tilos as their permanent residence. You can see the investment they’ve made as you spot the many restored houses in the capital, Megalo Horio, with its narrow alleys and cobbled square. These houses aren’t the island’s only imposing structures, however; onTilos are the ruins of seven fortified settlements. At the Paleontological Museum, you can look even further back in time; there are bones of dwarf elephants that lived here tens of thousands of years ago. The island has an extensive network of hiking trails, but what it doesn’t have are any public garbage bins; a zero-waste JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU program is being piloted here. * Ferry from Piraeus (13-15 hours). Flight to Kos or Rhodes, then catamaran (1.5-2 hours).

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@MICHAEL_PAPPAS

36°25’N 27°22’E

© GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

DISCOVER

Each Aegean island embodies a different world and boasts its own unique identity. This issue presents a selection of destinations in the Dodecanese and Cyclades that are representative of the rich mosaic of experiences that the South Aegean offers.

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Paros

The crowd-pleaser FROM COSMOPOLITAN NAOUSA AND BUSTLING PARIKIA TO THE QUIETER RURAL VILLAGES AND THE BEACHES IN THE SOUTH, PAROS HAS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE. Β Υ L I N A K A P E TA N I O U

P H OTO S : P E R I K L E S M E R A KO S

Kolymbithres is one of the most famous beach on the island, due to its rock formations.

Paros

DISCOVER

M MOTOR TRAFFIC on Parikia’s busiest street, the one connecting it with Naousa, has been steadily increasing over the years. Since the 1960s, these two towns have been the island’s tourist centers. Back then, Paros was just coming onto the tourism scene, but more recently it has become a more sophisticated destination, with the opening of many five-star hotels and with restaurants moving operations here for the summer from their Michelin-starred establishments in Athens. In the past, the mention of Paros brought to mind classic Greek summer island images: the characteristic whitewashed houses, the windmills, and the picturesque fish tavernas on sandy beaches, combined to make the island an ideal destination for visitors looking not necessarily for luxury, but for the quintessential Cycladic setting. Today, with an amazing variety of activities, accommodations and experiences on offer at prices ranging from affordable to absurd, it’s clear that Paros has become more versatile. Families with children will appreciate the clean, shallow beaches; those in search of adventure will revel in the water sports. Party-goers will enjoy the nightlife in Parikia and Naousa, while those seeking peace and tranquility will undoubtedly venture into the hinterland and to the quieter beaches in the south. Travelers with a taste for luxury and fine dining will not be disappointed, either – Paros truly has something for everyone.

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The St Constantine Church in Parikia is a favourite sunset spot.

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Paros

DISCOVER

A cosmopolitan fishing village

Cecelia, an American who lives and paints on Paros.

Naousa is a fishing village in the north of the island with a large sheltered bay and the ruins of a small Venetian fort; it’s long been a key destination for those traveling around the Aegean by boat. By the 1980s, yacht tourism had brought with it a more cosmopolitan air, and even though the kafeneia (traditional coffee shops) still served octopus, olives, and gouna, locally-caught sundried mackerel, within a few years, the little port village was filled with restaurants serving lobster spaghetti and other high-end seafood, and the settlement’s alleyways were flooded with international visitors.

Today, these restaurants are frequented by business magnates, Hollywood A-listers, and other VIPs visiting the island. The area northwest of Naousa, however, just beyond Kolymbithres Beach, presents a completely different image: a remote peninsula that’s home to the Environmental and Cultural Park of Paros. At the start of the park, you’ll find a boatyard and the Monastery of St. Ioannis Detis. Leave the car at the Monastiri Beach parking lot and take to the park’s footpaths, which lead past coves and rock formations all the way to the lighthouse at Korakas Cape.

The wild, wild east

Despite its appeal to tourists, there are still plenty of places on Paros that remain relatively untouched, almost as they were a few decades ago. Tourism-related development over the last 50 years has been rather uneven, especially when comparing Parikia and Naousa with the eastern part of the island, which didn’t get electricity until the 1960s, and paved roads until the 1980s. At that time, the main professions of the villagers in this part of the island and in the hinterland were farming and stock breeding. Today, in the area from Abelas to Piso Livadi you’ll see agricultural fields, farms and dirt roads, as well as beaches without 6 4 — GREECE IS

beach bars. Many farming communities may indeed be surrounded by luxurious rental villas, but a sense of the traditional Cyclades is still very much intact in this part of the island, as it is to varying degrees in the villages of Kostos, Lefkes, Prodromos, Marmara and Marpissa.

Exploring the hinterland

On the main pedestrianized street in Lefkes, you’ll run into visitors from a number of different countries, some are trying to navigate a maze of alleyways via GPS and others simply follow the SUMMER 2022

crowd. And yet, in some magical way, it seems everyone always ends up at village kafeneio near the Church of Aghia Triada. The view is simply enchanting from here. It’s definitely worth heading up to Aghii Pantes, a small chapel above Lefkes and the highest point on Paros, with stunning views. It is also worth following the Byzantine Trail from Lefkes to Prodromos, the famed footpath that connects the two villages. At Marmara, near Prodromos, the windmill in the center of the village has been converted into a residence. From here, it’s a five minutes drive to sandy Kalogeros Beach.

Inside the Folklore Museum of Marpissa.

Below: The village of Lefkes.

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manageable pace than other areas of the island. Locals and foreign volunteers have, for the past 12 years, found a way to celebrate this achievement, and the traditions of the island in general, putting on the “Routes in Marpissa” festival.

This year, the three-day festival, with exhibitions, activities and workshops, will run from August 26-28 (stimarpissa.gr). The festival has also been instrumental in preserving local knowledge; festival volunteers have undertaken important local record-keeping regarding the architecture, history, people and daily life in Marpissa, which you can see online at blueheritage.gr.

The Byzantine Trail in Prodromos begins in a yard full of flowers.

Marpissa, with its windmills and narrow, labyrinthine alleyways, is bewitching. The village resembles an open-air museum of architecture, with many beautifully restored houses, including former farmhouses that have been renovated but retain their traditional character. Only one taverna operates in the center of the village; the hotels and a few shops are scattered around the settlement. Locals choose to preserve the residential character of the village and have refused to allow

THE ISL AND OF PAROS IS BLESSED WITH AN ABUNDANCE OF SANDY BE ACHES WITH CLE AR, CRYSTALLINE WATERS. THE MA JORIT Y OF THESE HAVE SHALLOW WATERS, MAKING THEM IDE AL FOR FAMILIES WITH YOUNG CHILDREN. 6 6 — GREECE IS

large-scale developments, a fact that undoubtedly adds to the village’s charm.

Walking around Marpissa’s narrow streets will take you under stone archways and past dozens of churches. The Sculpture Museum of Marpissa “Nikos Perantinos” and the Folklore Museum, which operates with the assistance of the local Women’s Association, are both here, as is the Ecclesiastical Museum, next to the Church of the Metamorphosis of our Savior Jesus Christ.

On display are post-Byzantine icons sourced from chapels in the area. A pink courtyard door has recently become a village landmark, too, mostly thanks to the number of selfies tourists have taken in front of it and posted online.

On the summit of Kefalos, a hill just outside Marpissa, stands the Monastery of Aghios Antonios, offering uninterrupted views of the island’s interior, of the sea and of the island of Naxos in the distance. The southwestern parts of the island from Pounta to Dryos are home to a number of beaches and small settlements. There are fewer crowds here than in Naousa or Parikia.

Routes in Marpissa

The traditional settlement of Marpissa appears to be experiencing tourist development at a more SUMMER 2022

Beaches

The island is blessed with an abundance of sandy beaches with clear, crystalline and mostly shallow waters, ideal for families with young children. Several feature beach bars that only occupy designated areas, leaving plenty of room for those who just want to spread their towels on the sand.

If you’re looking for a party atmosphere, head to the legendary bar at Punda Beach. In the south, you’ll find Farangas Beach, also with a beach bar; in the north is Monastiri, which is particularly shallow, with many small bays and rocks on either side. Near Parikia, the best beach is Krios; the Marcelo Beach Bar operates on its nortwestern edge. One of the most famous beaches is Hrisi Akti on the southeastern coast, a favorite of surfers and those seeking to try different water sports.

Kolymbithres Beach is just as popular; its smooth flat rocks create perfect natural diving boards. The beaches of Santa Maria and Little Santa Maria in the north are fully serviced. One of the most beautiful beaches on the island is Lolantonis in the south, with a discreet beach bar tucked away on its western flank. If you prefer unserviced beaches, then head to Lageri in the north, Kalogeros in the east or Makria Miti in the south.•

info

© DIMITRIS VLAIKOS

the zucchini fritters, the fava and the prawn saganaki.

• HAROULA (Marpissa, Τel. (+30) 22840.414.40) In the village of Marpissa, Haroula has been cooking gemista (vegetables stuffed with rice) and mousaka every morning since 1977. With the help of her family, she serves these delicacies under the mulberry tree in Agios Nikolaos Square. The tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes are grown in the cook’s garden and the menu also features dishes such as ribeye steak in red sauce and other grilled meats.

• PALIA AGORA (Naousa, Τel. (+30) 22840 .1847) This kafenion only opens in the evenings and serves only a few traditional items. Try the salatouri (raw skate) with onion and parsley and the tomato fritters.

WHERE TO EAT • GIALOS (Piso Livadi, Τel. (+30) 22840.451.24)

Near the shore in the picturesque port of Piso Livadi is Gialos, where a meal is an unforgettable experience.

Having worked in some of the top hotels in Athens, chef Giorgos Georgousis has returned to his home island to create beguiling seafood dishes. Owner Nikos Kefalas has renovated the space, once his grandmother’s grocery store, with love and enthusiasm. Try the green salad with grilled mastelo cheese, peach and hazelnuts, the sea bass carpaccio with passion fruit and chili dressing, the fried calamari with romesco sauce, or the grilled tuna with black rice and smoked eel sauce.

• SIPAROS (Xsifara, near Naousa, Τel. (+30) 22840.527.85) Inventive and creative cuisine served at this seaside spot includes dishes such as steamed mussels in coconut milk with chili and lime, tuna tataki with wasabi, and orzo risotto with prawns, zucchini and saffron.

• MIRA (Parikia, Τel. (+30) 22840.225.92) Not far from the port, this family business serves classic dishes and more creative versions of Greek cuisine, prepared with premium quality ingredients. Try the salad with bulgur wheat, avocado, nuts, tomato and spearmint, or the grilled tuna fillet.

• GIORGOS & ANNA (Logaras, heading to Marpissa, Τel. (+30) 22840.421.27) On an island where fresh fish is so readily available, you might just find yourself craving some meat, and this is the best choice for carnivores. The taverna serves delicious ribs, juicy biftekia (burger patties) and beef steaks, and boasts a great wine list and many beers sourced from Greek breweries.

• KALLITEXNIKO KAFENEION (Prodromos, Τel. (+30) 22840.420.33) Down a narrow alley in the traditional settlement of Prodromos, Antonis and Maria serve their customers as they would guests in their own home: with warm hospitality, local ingredients, and mouthwatering dishes of the day, depending on the season. Stars include

WHAT TO BUY • NESO (Naousa, Tel. (+30) 22840.285.66,

nesostudio.com) One-of-a-kind jewelry pieces, made by hand, are available at the lovely Neso studio in Naousa, opened this year by artist Zoe Xemantilotou. Zoe uses the wax molding technique to prepare her jewelry, which she casts in Silver 925 before plating it with 24K gold. She uses precious stones and every piece she creates is unique.

• CECELIA ART PAROS (21 Manto Mavrogenous, Parikia, Τel. (+30) 698.855.2831, ceceliaart.com, open every day 18:00-22:00) Cecelia, an American who fell in love with Paros and decided to relocate to the island, hosts exhibitions that showcase the work of local artists, and creates wonderful paintings of her own. Subject to prior arrangement, she also offers painting lessons.

Above: Sunset at the old port of Naousa.

Below: Dine right by the sea at Gialos in Piso Livadi.

© SIME/VISUALHELLAS.GR

Tinos is famed for its traditional dovecotes, which are dotted around the island.

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Tinos

Island of Miracles THE VIRGIN MARY, THE ART OF MARBLE WORKING, THE VERNACULAR ARCHITECTURE, THE INLAND VILLAGES AND, OF COURSE, THE NORTH WIND: GREECE’S FOREMOST TRAVEL JOURNALIST WRITES ABOUT THE ISLAND SHE CALLS HOME. Β Υ M AYA T S O C L I S

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I I WATCHED HER CRAWLING on her hands and knees up the Avenue of the Megalochari, the hill leading to the entrance of the church. She looked to be about 40, a fashionably dressed woman slightly at odds with her surroundings.

Then I noticed that walking alongside her, in the shadows, was a man her age and a handsome lad in his twenties, a barman perhaps, or a competitive yachtsman, or a student… who knows?

Slowly but steadily, with the sun beating mercilessly down on her, the

woman reached the pebbled entrance to the Church of Panagia Megalochari (the one with all graces), entered the marble courtyard, dragged herself with some effort up the stairs along the red carpet, crossed the threshold of the church, finally stood upright on her feet, kissed the icon with warmth and reverence, lit a candle, and walked out into the revitalizing northerly breeze, to rest in the shade. She was flushed and lost in thought when I asked her, “Do you believe in miracles?”

“But of course,” she responded. “It was a miracle that brought me here. A car accident five years ago. My boy was battling death for three months in intensive care; they had written him off.

And here we are today, all together. Just look at my lad!” The young man smiled at me nervously. “And why was it the Virgin Mary who performed the miracle and not the doctors, or science?”

I dared to ask. “When I had lost all hope, it was Her I pleaded with,” she

answered, in a way that brooked no objection.

This is how her prayer joined those of the millions of worshipers who have been putting their faith in the Megalochari of Tinos for two hundred years now, etching, sometimes elegantly, other times artlessly, a name, a homeland, a date, on the cool marble thresholds of the church. As for myself, I won’t stop repeating that Tinos itself was saved by the Virgin Mary. It is this pilgrimage which you may find heartrending, uplifting or simply sociologically fascinating, that acted as a deterrent, rescuing the island from rampant tourist development at critical times.

Today, Tinos remains largely unspoiled (compared to other Greek islands), with villages that resemble openair folk architecture museums. There are some contemporary award-winning buildings as well, but tradition has been spared. There’s a lively cultural life which honors both the past and the

© GIANNIS GIANNELOS

A giant granite boulder near an old threshing floor in Falatados.

© EVELYN FOSKOLOU, GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

Right: A votive offering left for the safe return of a sailor.

Below: Surfing off Livada Beach.

Tinos

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A sculptor’s studio in Pyrgos, the traditional center of marble working.

present, a farming sector undergoing a renaissance, prize-winning microbreweries and wineries, manufacturing units distributing their products nationwide, and a generation of young restaurateurs and tourism entrepreneurs who have realized that creating a destination requires vision, persistence, knowledge, and, most of all, cooperation.

The land

Naturally, there are the beaches: otherworldly Livada with its wind-worn and salt-scarred granite boulders; Pachia Ammos with its sand dunes; Santa Margarita with its gaze on Mykonos; surfers’ favorite Megali Kolibithra; challenging Apigania; and child-friendly Laouti.

But for me, Tinos is the magnificent and uniquely handcrafted hinterland.

As you approach the island from the sea, the naked, steep granite hulk of Exombourgo dominates the landscape. Like a giant eye, it observes history and human progress, oversees a wonderful rural microcosm and even defines the climate of Faltado, Koumaro, Skalado, Xinara, Arnado and all the other medieval villages which surround it. On its slopes, sometimes lost in cloud or lit by lightning, once stood 7 2 — GREECE IS

AS YOU APPROACH THE ISL AND FROM THE SE A , THE NAKED, STEEP GRANITE HULK OF E XOMBOURGO DOMINATES THE L ANDSCAPE .

LIKE A GIANT E YE, IT OBSERVES HISTORY AND HUMAN PROGRESS. SUMMER 2022

the island’s capital, and on its summit perched the the Venetian fortifications, erected during Venice’s 500 years of rule. These fortifications were blown up by the Ottomans in 1715; the impressive ruins charm those persistent hikers who make their way up established routes to the peak of Aghia Eleni.

The same granite that formed Exombourgo runs towards the sea and the bay of Livada, creating in the area known as Petriados a series of uniquely beautiful landscapes. When I first came to the island, they spoke to me of the village of Volax, which gets its name from the round granite boulders scattered throughout the area. Are they the result of an ancient explosion? Or remains of a battle between the Titans and the Gods of Olympus? Fans of bouldering, who come from around the world to test their skills on these great rocks, don’t care which is true; that these stones exist is enough. Others who find their bliss in the countryside of Tinos include the hiking groups, of all ages and skill levels, who enjoy the well-marked network of Tinos Trails.

“We haven’t seen a more beautiful version of Greece,” I was told by a family on the trail towards the village of Agapi, and I agree. The farmers and herders of Tinos, artists at heart, have created with their hands and the materials at hand the landscape that we take for granted today. They built the terraces which dominate the hillsides, the dovecotes which are unique to the island, the rough shelters, the paths to their parcels of land, and, of course, the villages themselves.

There are 45 inhabited villages, all kept in outstanding condition. Most stand in naturally sheltered locations, close to potable water, in total harmony with the surrounding countryside, and with their backs, as it were, to the strong north wind.

The North Wind

Oh, that north wind! Tinos is famous for it, and this fact has brought a new crowd to the island: surfers, as

© MAYA TSOCLIS

Dodecanese

An alley in the village of Kardiani.

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well as aspiring surfers. On the days when the wind rages and swimmers become scarce, cars loaded with surfboards head towards Komi, and surfers from all across the world, sun-kissed and athletic, ride the waves of Megali Kolibithra. These winds, which we often called “restorative” – I suspect for consolation – are attributed to Voreas, the son of Aeolus, and the personification of the north wind. During the voyage of the Argonauts, his winged sons, the twins Kalais and Zitis, provoked the wrath of Hercules, who hunted them down and killed them on Tinos. Since then – because everything in Greece has a mythological explanation – Voreas and old grandfather Aeolus mourn by setting the north wind on our island.

Perhaps it’s these winds, and the atmosphere they create, that inspired so many creative people, from sculptors Halepas and Sohos to painters Lytras, Gyzis and my father Costas Tsoklis, and from the

IT IS THE SOULS OF THE OLD RE JOICING IN THE ACHIE VEMENTS OF THE YOUNG , AND IT IS THE RESPONSIBILIT Y WE HAVE TO HAND THIS LIT TLE PARADISE OF OURS OVER TO THE NE X T GENERATION, STILL UNSPOILED.

philosopher Kastoriadis to the composer Koumentakis, who were born here or adopted the island as their own. They have left Tinos a notable legacy: the many cultural initiatives on offer, which attract audiences of all ages. Museums large and small, artists in residence, a plethora of local festivals and cultural initiatives, make Tinos an ideal destination for restless, mindful visitors, for those seeking to combine uplifting the soul and the spirit.

The Marble

The sound of hammers striking chisels echoes around Pyrgos, in Exo Meria, the northern part of the island.

The land was always rich in this material, but it was the Venetian period that played a decisive role in the development of marble crafts, and the incredible Museum of Marble Crafts of the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation in Pyrgos lays out for visitors

Kolymbithra Beach is popular with surfers.

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© GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

AT ITS SOUTHPOINT OF MAINL AND GREECE . WHE THER YOU'RE NE W TO MED SAILING , OR AN SKIPPER, THE SOME THING DISTANCES MED E XPERIENCED SKIPPER, THE IONIAN SE A HAS SOME THING FOR YOU. SUMMER 2022

The flavors

It’s impossible to talk about Tinos without mentioning its food and drink. The island is rightly proud of its excellent homegrown or locally made products, such as the internationally award-winning NISSOS beer and the wines from Tiniaki Ampelones vineyards, Volacus Wine, Vaptistis Winery and other worthy ambassadors who spread the message of Tinos worldwide.

Tinos’ many producers are making a name for themselves and carving out a place in the Greek market. The aged graviera and the PDO Tinos kopanisti cream cheese from the Farmers’ Cooperative, Giannis Kritikos’ cured meats, Aggeliki Rouggeri’s kariki blue cheese, and the little round cheeses of the San Lorenzo creamery are all excellent. Local restaurateurs, sensing a demand, have collaborated on gastronomic initiatives, such as Tinos Food Paths, which captured the hearts of food lovers and became models for other islands. At the forefront of this contemporary culinary scene are Marinos Souranis’ Marathia, Antonia Zarpa and Aris Tatsis’ Thalassaki, and, more recently, Dimitris Katrivesis’ Thama. With all this creativity, there’s a fear that, with the explosion of new arrivals, new chefs and new food trends, we may lose touch with the pleasures of those simple dishes which charmed us when we first came to know the island – but I’m sure we’ll prove to be wiser than that.

Tinos is bound up in faith, in the pilgrims’ offerings, and the prayers of

© KONSTANTINOS TSAKALIDIS

the magical journey from quarry to workshop to art collection.

Today, the centuries-old tradition of the villages of Kardiani, Ysternia, Marlas and Pyrgos continues at the Preparatory and Professional School of Fine Arts. The marble craftsmen of Tinos toil on in their workshops, using the same tools and techniques as their ancestors, some reprising traditional motifs, and others struggling to open up new artistic paths – a difficult task, under the weight of tradition.

Ice cream on the steps with friends – a special summer treat.

Orthodox and Catholics. It shines out in the spirit of the nuns of the Virgin of the Angels in Kechrovouni and the Ursuline sisters at Loutra. It is the wild goats of Tsiknias and the thyme which wafts its scent under the feet of hikers. It is the gray stone terraces of the summer and the green, flower-covered valleys of spring. It is the shadows of the clouds which rush over the island, the trees bent in the north wind, and the wild waves whipped up by the south wind.

It is the lonely beaches, the marble statuary in cemeteries, the festivals in the villages and the remote chapels, and the islanders’ flying footwork as they throw themselves into the balos, an energetic local dance. It’s the new guest houses, the award-winning restaurants, the new trails that follow ancient paths, the bookshop-cafés in the town’s alleyways, and the young fathers with babies in their arms. It is the souls of the old rejoicing in the achievements of the young, and it is the responsibility we have to hand this little paradise of ours over to the next generation, still unspoiled. • SOUTH AEGEAN

info • Aggeliki Rouggeri cheese, Tel. (+30) 694.825.9427 • Kritikos cured meats, Tel. (+30) 22830.292.80 • Marathia, Tel. (+30) 22830.232.49 • Nissos beer, Tel. (+30) 22830.263.33 • San Lorenzo creamery, Tel. (+30) 22830.415.49 • Thalassaki, Tel. (+30) 22830.313.66 • Thama, Tel. (+30) 22830.290.21 • Tiniaki Ampelones vineyards, Tel. (+30) 22830.411.20 • Tinos Farmers’ Cooperative, Tel. (+30) 22830.223.23 • Vaptistis Winery, Tel. (+30) 22830.421.55 • Volacus Wine, Tel. (+30) 697.848.5671

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SANTORINI’S SPECIAL VINES

© GIANNIS GIANNELOS

Β Υ G R I G O R I S M I C H A I LO S D I P W S E T

The settlements on the edge of the caldera sit high on the horizon, while the vines on the island hug the soil in defense against the winds.

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On this volcanic island, terroir is everything

Santorini

© MALTE JAGER/LAIF, CHRISTINA GEORGIADOU

Hatzidakis’ Santorini is one of the most terroir-driven wines that the island produces.

Left: Depending on the weather, harvest usually starts in the first week of August.

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H

many times, by every possible means of transport and at every season, I can safely say that arriving by air really is the best way to truly understand how beautiful and special this island is. The white buildings, both hotels and homes, are like icing sugar sprinkled along the rim of the cliff; they’re in marvelous contrast to the dark volcanic soil and rocks below them. It’s amazing to think that this stunning sight is the result of a natural disaster of biblical proportions that snuffed out all life on the island around the 16th century BC. The cliff to which these sparkling hotels now cling used to be part of a volcano.

Prehistoric Strongyli, as the island was known in ancient times on account of its circular (“strongylo”) shape, was partly destroyed by the eruption, and it’s what remains today that we call Santorini, Thirasia and Aspronisi.

Although so much changed over the course of Santorini’s turbulent history, there’s one constant that unites the past to the present, and this is the cultivation of grapes. Vineyards have been around in Santorini since prehistoric times.

Archaeological excavation in Akrotiri has revealed that grapes were grown in the area for nearly three centuries before the devastating earthquake that led to the abandonment of the prehistoric settlement. Its resettlement some 300 years later by the Phoenicians revived the practice of viticulture. This long and illustrious tradition continues to this day.

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© MALTE JAGER/LAIF

HAVING TRAVELED to Santorini

SUMMER 2022

The island of Santorini, an international tourist destination that can attract up to ten thousand visitors a day, somehow still finds space for its invaluable vineyards.

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A tasting session at Estate Argyros in Episkopi Gonia.

leaves; if you root around under them, you’ll find the clusters of Assyrtiko.

Growing inside the basket, the grapes are shielded from the scorching sun and the scouring winds that often blow here. In the spring, Santorini’s dark landscape is blanketed in green as the grape leaves start to grow – and it is a marvelous sight.

The “ambelia”

Visiting Santorini and not finding time to walk around its vineyards, or “ambelia” as they’re known in Greek, is tantamount to skipping the Acropolis when in Athens. Santorini’s vineyards are a monument of cultural heritage, and the island represents one of the oldest vine-growing regions in the world.

On the drive from the airport to your hotel, you’ll pass dozens of vine plots, but if you’re not in the know, you won’t know the value of what you’re seeing.

The arid volcanic soil, the hot sun, the morning mists drifting up from the caldera, and the powerful winds that sweep across the Aegean all prompted the vine growers of Santorini to go about their business in an entirely unique way, weaving their vines into a basket-like structure, the kouloura, that lies close to the ground. The bigger the basket, the older the plant, with some of them boasting a root system more than 200 or 300 years old. The top of the kouloura is protected by the plant’s 8 2 — GREECE IS

FE W GRAPES IN THE WORLD MANAGE TO AT TEST SO ELOQUENTLY TO THE CHARACTER OF THEIR L AND OF PROVENANCE AS ASSYRTIKO DOES. SUMMER 2022

The Assyrtiko variety has traveled well beyond Greece’s borders; its global reputation has resulted in plantings in other parts of the world, including Australia. However, it is Santorini’s seemingly inhospitable soil that brings out its best attributes: minerality – as though it has trapped the sea inside it – with an energy that sparks every taste bud and an incredible structure more often found in reds than whites. Both the austerely dry and acidic wines it produces and the stunning sweet wines, traditional Vinsantos, made with the sun-dried grape will remind you of the place from which they hail. Few grapes in the world manage to attest so eloquently to the character of their land of provenance.

Old-timers and traditional grape growers tend to some of the island’s greatest vineyards, which yield the elite of its grape harvest, the best of the best for the production of wine.

Among the renowned vineyards are Louros and Melissotopia in Pyrgos, Kavalieros in Vourvoulos and Ai Giorgis in Megalochori.

The harvest begins in August and is a major celebration on the island, lasting some two to three weeks. The farmers start work in the early hours, cutting the grapes before the sun comes up and the heat damages the fruit. If you’re on the island in August, this is an experience that should not be missed. At some vineyards, like Gavalas (gavalaswines. gr), visitors who have expressed interest are invited to crush the grapes the old-fashioned way, underfoot, helping those wine producers to carry on this ancient custom.

© CHRISTINA GEORGIADOU, PERIKLES MERAKOS

A diamond

Gaia’s Thalassitis Submerged

Vassaltis Vineyards

Estate Argyros

Mikra Thira

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Santorini

Left: A food and wine pairing at Anhydrous Winery.

Below: Celebrating the harvest the old way, with a round of grape-stomping.

Taste the magic

Whether your tasting session takes place inside centuries-old underground wine cellars that locals call canaves or at one of the ultramodern wineries dug out of the volcanic rock, you’ll soon discover that, from a single grape, one can produce wine in almost infinite variations as you try the best vintages of Assyrtiko.

The minerality of the wines from this terroir maximizes the pleasure of enjoying it one of these grotto-like traditional canavas, where the humidity and temperature are always ideal. Some yposkafa (“dug-out”) wineries are decorated with modern works of art, others are architecturally state-of-the-art and others still are exercises in simplicity, featuring many natural materials in their construction.

Carved into the rock, Venetsanos (venetsanoswinery.com), opened in 1949 as the island’s first industrial winery.

After touring its underground passages, you’ll enjoy a tasting session on the veranda with a view of the caldera. I’d recommend trying the Nychteri, the Mandilaria and the Anagallis rosé.

Should you visit the Hatzidakis winery (hatzidakiswines.gr), you’ll be welcomed by members of the family; the canava at Volcanic Slopes Vineyards (vsvwinery.com) was totally

restored some years ago and is now a modern gem. Canava Roussos presents old-fashioned (canavaroussos. gr) charm. At the multipurpose Art Space (artspace-santorini.com), tours are conducted by the owner, winemaker Antonis Argyros.

A visit to Sigalas (sigalas-wine. com), Anhydrous (anhydrouswinery. com) or Vassaltis (vassaltis.com) could be expanded to include some very nice food, perfectly paired with their wines.

Tastings right on the beach are offered by the brand-new winery Oeno Pi (oenop.com) and by Gaia (gaiawines. gr). The latter is an industrial-style winery that produces the rare Thalassitis Submerged, an Assyrtiko that has undergone reductive aging in the sea.

This year, thanks to the team at the new winery and vineyard Mikra Thira (facebook.com/mikrathira), you’ll have the opportunity for the first time to taste wines on the island of Thirasia, with panoramic views of Santorini’s caldera and a different angle of sight on Nea Kameni, the active volcano in the sea. For a more contemporary vineyard experience, one which brings Napa Valley to mind, stop by the architecturally ultramodern winery Argyros (estateargyros.com).• NIKOLETA MAKRYONITOU

The chefs at Domaine Sigalas.

Assyrtiko in 3 acts • JUST BEFORE THE

SUN starts setting in the late afternoon, head up to Profitis Ilias and make sure to bring along a well-chilled bottle of Assyrtiko. The view from Santorini’s highest summit is absolutely spectacular.

Sipping on the wine and looking over small plots of old, own-rooted vines trained into baskets, you’ll understand a bit more about the island’s enduring natural legacy; it’s as if these vines have been here forever.

• SANTORINI’S FOOD

SCENE has something for everyone. You can sit at a taverna in Vlychada and enjoy fresh fish grilled on charcoal, accompanying it with a vibrant and energetic Assyrtiko, or treat yourself to a top-range Assyrtiko and the wonderfully sophisticated bonito with a tarama mousse and Santorini katsouni cucumber at the historic fine-dining restaurant Selene, served in the courtyard of an 18th-century Catholic monastery. It’s a gift to yourself you’ll never forget.

© VANGELIS PARAVAS, CHRISTINA GEORGIADOU

• DON’T LEAVE THE

ISLAND without a couple of bottles of Assyrtiko. Extra tip: Assyrtiko ages beautifully, acquiring a complex, nutty and mineral character. A bottle of aged Assyrtiko is the best gift you can give yourself or your loved ones as a souvenir from your Santorini visit.

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Kimolos

No Frills Needed THIS ISLAND HAS PRESERVED AN AUTHENTIC SIMPLICITY THAT ENCAPSULATES THE ESSENCE OF SUMMER IN THE CYCLADES. Β Υ O LG A C H A R A M I 8 6 — GREECE IS

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Out for ouzo and meze at Kalamitsi.

Left: The main lane in the capital Horio, adorned with handpainted statements such as "My Kimolos, my paradise."

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S SITTING AT A TAVERNA , I hear ice cubes tumbling into a glass at a nearby table, and a cicada getting quite comfortable in the reed fencing. There’s a smell of fish in the air. Dimitra is busy frying in the kitchen while “Ioanna,” the family’s fishing boat, gently bobs up and down on the crystalline water in front of me. Ioanna Ventouris, for whom the boat was named, is busy in the kitchen, too. Every day, in the family taverna they serve fasolakia (green beans) sourced from their garden, red mullet caught a few hours before, and meat from one of the three stockbreeders on the island. Kalamitsi Taverna has just ten tables spread out on the sand, the best way to dine in summer. “We don’t want anything to change here – isn’t this why you all love us?” asks Dimitris Ventouris, who opened this small taverna some 20 years ago. His son, Stelios, has now taken it over, but he, too, has no plans to change the restaurant’s traditions.

Kimolos, like the food at this eatery, remains pure and authentic, simple and genuine. The island is impressively underdeveloped, with one largely dirt road that runs for approximately 12km; the rest of the island, a total of 37.43 square kilometers, is only accessible by foot or by sea. There’s only one ferry from Piraeus to Kimolos, and it moves rather slowly, a prelude to the relaxing pace that awaits you here. The number of hotel rooms is regulated, and there are only a dozen restaurants. Locals do not, as a rule, sell their land, and most have other occupations besides tourism.

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A panoramic view of Horio: To the left is the port of Psathi.

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Ta Prassa, the island’s most popular beach.

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At the same time, change is coming, if slowly; the old fishermen’s houses and shops in Goupa and Karra, dug into the soft stone, are gradually being converted into luxurious rooms to let, and once humble tavernas are starting to offer gourmet menus.

The local cultural group Kimolistes, which organizes beach cleanups and the whitewashing of stone paths, has set up lending libraries in boats and manages Cine Kalisperitis, the nomadic outdoor cinema that earned first prize at the ECTN Awards 2021 in the “Sustainable Cultural Tourism” category.

There’s nothing like sitting on a beach in the midst of ruined castle and watching a movie under the stars.

These are the great things you’ll find on Kimolos, along with beautiful beaches such as Aliki, Bonatsa, and Kalamitsi, all with soft sand, tamarisk trees and the steady hum of cicadas. The most famous of these

THROUGHOUT KIMOLOS, YOU’LL FIND TRACES OF OLD MINES, AND THERE’S AN ACTIVE MINE IN PIG ADO THAT STILL E XPORTS BENTONITE AND POZ ZOL AN.

spots is Prassa Beach, where coarse sand formed from white rocks makes the waters phosphorescent. The large bay at Prasonisi is a popular mooring spot for yachts, and there’s a beach bar here, too, uncharacteristic of the island’s tranquil character; it plays loud music, often electronic. Dekas Beach, once a hangout for campers, is less developed. At Ellinika Beach, snorkelers can spot the ruins of ancient Kimolos on the seabed.

Monastiria and Soufi beaches are quieter places; you’ll need to walk to reach the latter. Mavrospilia Beach offers a relaxed beach bar where you can enjoy a lovely sunset framed by the peculiar rock formations found there. Kimolos has such rock features because, like its neighbor Milos, it underwent volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The volcanic ash produced impressive stone shapes, different pigments in the soil, and great mineral

Inside the archaeological museum.

Skiadi, the geological formation that resembles a mushroom.

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wealth in the form of white silicate minerals whose chalky color gave the island’s name. Mining for these materials began in antiquity, and what was extracted was largely used as detergent.

The export of figs also brought great prosperity in the 3rd century BC, and the island earned the right to mint its own currency. This period of economic boom lasted until a disastrous earthquake struck in the early Christian period. You can learn more about the history of the island at the small archaeological museum in Horio.

Throughout Kimolos, you’ll find traces of old mines and their conveyors, and there’s even an active mine in Pigado that still exports bentonite and pozzolan. The island’s special geology is evident everywhere: the “Elephant” rock in the village of Goupa, the “Rhinoceros” rock and carved tombs at Ellinika Beach, the rocks at Geronikola Bay, and the hot springs at Therma and Agioklima beaches.

The most impressive of these geological sites can be admired from the sea. Vangelis Vamvakaris’ boat “Delfini” can take you to see the caves and rock formations on the north side of the island. Take your mask and snorkel and swim over coral beds and through schools of multicolored fish.

A visit to nearby Poliegos, an islet inhabited by a single farmer, will reward you with golden sandy beaches, turquoise waters, multicolored rock outcroppings and beautiful caves. You’ll find amazing blue waters here at the beaches of Pano and Kato Mersini, Panagia, and Avmoura. Be sure to check out the abandoned lighthouse, the impressive caves at Fanara, and the three islets of Kalogeroi, always covered in flocks of seabirds; you might be lucky enough to spot some seals nearby as well. Whatever you see on or around Poliegos, however, Vamvakaris will be glad to share his knowledge and encourage you to respect and help preserve this unspoiled environment, which serves as a breeding ground for several species and has been incorporated in the Natura 9 2 — GREECE IS

At the Kali Kardia coffee shop, which locals call “Bochori.”

2000 network as a Site of Community Importance for its rare endemic species of plants and animals, such as the venomous red Macrovipera schweizeri snake, the Podarcis milensis lizard, and the wild goats.

Walks and Trails

THE MOST FAMOUS GEOLOGICAL FORMATION ON KIMOLOS IS SKIADI, A MUSHROOMSHAPED ROCK COMPOSED OF 70 DIFFERENT KINDS OF ROCK .

SUMMER 2022

The most famous geological formation on Kimolos is called Skiadi; it’s a mushroom-shaped rock composed of 70 different kinds of rock.

Pay a visit in the golden light of late afternoon after a beautiful 30-minute hike. In addition to the lovely view over the hills and sea, you will pass dry stone walls, olive groves (Kimolos also produces olive oil), and a traditional stone farmhouse with a threshing floor. The footpath for Skiadi is accessible from Horio, but you’ll have to ask locals where it begins. It’s the only one that is well signposted once you’ve found it. Still, it’s a good idea to download a map from the website kimolos.gr.

info The island’s capital

In Horio – unlike on most Cycladic islands, the main village here isn’t called Hora – you’ll enjoy lovely walks and lively evenings. At the parking lot on the edge of town, you’ll find maps of the village; these routes are also signposted. This is an initiative by the group Anavasi to help visitors navigate the labyrinthine village, a large Cycladic settlement with whitewashed streets, small squares, and many 17th-century churches.

The village of Horio sprung up around an older fortified settlement, constructed circa AD 1200. Taking the paths from Pano or Kato Porta means you’re following age-old trails. Ruins along these routes feature escutcheons, coats of arms, and pilasters. Built using local ironstone, the fortified settlement was once square in shape, and the houses were constructed in two rows, the

outer row functioning as a defensive wall. The oldest church in the village, the Church of Christ, built in 1592, is found within this once-walled area.

At some point within this old district, you’re certain to end up on the main pathway, Agora, where you’ll come across children at play, friendly cats, and a number of attractive bars; Brachera has a small roof patio; Agora and Laikon are on the same street.

The atmospheric bar known as Stavento, right around the corner, has good music.

If you’d rather hear the sea while you sip, head down to Psathi, the island’s small port, which is quiet and picturesque. Lostromos, one of the oldest cafés on the island, is open all day and has a wonderful host: Cuervo, the port’s mascot Labrador, who will welcome you like an old friend every time he sees you.•

In Goupa, boats are kept in small cave-like spaces called “syrmata.”

• Archaeological Museum, Tel. (+30) 22870.517.19, open daily 08:30-15:30, except Tue. and Thu. • Delfini boat tours, Vangelis Vamvakaris Tel. (+30) 697.227.2111

WHERE TO EAT Kalamitsi Taverna (Tel. (+30) 697.460.6086), on the beach of the same name, has reasonable prices and uses its own produce and other local ingredients. Sardis (Tel. (+30) 22870.514.58), in Aliki, offers good value for money and a lovely balcony with reed awnings.

Local legend Beba and her son, Themis, prepare delicious stews, seafood, and meat dishes – and the best ladenia. Kali Kardia (Tel. (+30) 22870.514.95) in Horio serves delicious moussaka and keftedakia (fried meatballs), along with a variety of daily specials. To Kima (Tel. (+30) 22870.510.01), on the beach in Psathi, is considered the island’s gourmet seafood restaurant, serving dishes such as ceviche, carpaccio, and lobster spaghetti. At Prasonisi (Tel. (+30) 694.862.0224) in Prassa, seafood dishes such as cuttlefish ink risotto are menu stars. In Horio, the grill-house Palia Agora (Tel. (+30) 22870.514.98) is a good choice.

Don't leave the island without purchasing cheeses from the local producers, exceptional reiki honey from Melaki (Tel. (+30) 22870.515.66), sweets from Stavento (Tel. (+30) 22870.516.99), or rice puddings or custards made with local milk at Twins (Tel. (+30) 22870.510.57).

FESTIVAL Throughout the summer until the month of October, the Kimolistes organize the Kimolos Experience Festival, which in addition to screenings at Cine Kalisperitis includes musical events, theatrical performances, organized hikes, and workshops on the island’s traditions (kimolistes.com).

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Mykonos

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THIS ISLAND PARADISE HAS AN ALMOST LIMITLESS SUPPLY OF AMAZING SURPRISES IN STORE FOR ITS VISITORS, EVEN THOSE WHO ARE SUMMER REGULARS. ΒΥ CHRISTINA POLITI

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© BJORN CEDER/SCORPIOS

Mykonos

International Playground SOUTH AEGEAN

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Top: Chilling out at Hippie Fish. Above: Delicious fusion cuisine served at Santa Marina.

Right: A view of Hora on a typically windy day.

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© ALEXANDROS

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© GIANNIS GIANNELOS

Mykonos

DISCOVER

MYKONOS GETS MORE POPUL AR EVERY YE AR.

From the picturesque island beloved by fashionable visitors in the 1950s and ’60s, when celebrities thronged its port, it has developed into α destination where everything is excessive.

Scorpios

Myconian summer. Members of the international jet set, movie stars, fashion designers, supermodels, artists, celebrities and influencers have returned with a vengeance, making for good people-watching for all the other tourists flocking from around the world. Mykonos has always welcomed diversity, and never judged those who wished to reveal their true selves, even during less tolerant eras.

The island’s picturesque qualities may have faded by now, but Mykonos still has a certain magic. What if more and more new villas are appearing on its once barren slopes, or if its wild beaches are now athrob with driving dance beats? So what if rooms to let have been replaced by multi-star boutique hotels, and if, instead of mopeds, there are shiny black limousines carrying a stream of arrivals or departures to the airport or the port? Mykonos sweeps you up in its frenzy and makes you part of its myth. That is its real power.

You’ll encounter the island’s party mood across a multitude of restaurants, bars and beach clubs. Just open your map app and start dropping pins.

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© BJORN CEDER

THE COVID PANDEMIC HAS ONLY temporarily slowed down the frenetic pace of the

T T he Paraga experience

Scorpios (scorpiosmykonos.com) reigns at one end of beautiful Paraga Beach, with comfy cushions for quiet moments, live music for nonstop dancing from sunrise until evening, and an exceptional restaurant, where chef Alexis Zopas has created a menu combining Greek cuisine with Asian influences, all served on impressive tableware; his ceviche with seafood, chili, coriander and olive oil is a must.

On the other end of the beach stands the hotel Soho Roc House (sohohouse.com/houses/soho-roc-house), the first branch of the famous hotel chain in Greece, introducing a new sophisticated hospitality experience. The absolute calm around the swimming pool and restaurant comes as a surprise, and the outdoor gym is a highlight that invites you to get active no matter how enticing the sun lounger may be.

In the middle of the beach you’ll find the classic taverna Nikolas

(nikolas-taverna.com), which serves fresh fish, best enjoyed with a side of taramosalata. A few meters away, the beach club SantAnna (santannamykonos.com) features a restaurant with Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, a sushi bar, and a host of executive services as well as one of the island’s largest pools.

S uper Paradise: A heavenly beach

Closely associated with the island’s golden party era, the impressive Super Paradise Beach stretches out from the JackieO’ Beach Club (jackieomykonos.com), Jean Paul Gaultier’s favorite hangout. Frequented by drag queens moving to its dance music, it attracts a lively and carefree, if rather elitist, crowd. You’ll be welcomed with a glass of chilled champagne and

MYKONOS SWEEPS YOU UP IN ITS FRENZIED PACE AND MAKES YOU PART OF ITS MY TH. THAT IS ITS RE AL POWER.

a wonderful Greek fusion menu created by the distinguished chefs Christoforos Peskias and Dimosthenis Balopoulos.

The red mullet ceviche with coriander, the Koilada shrimp with citrus tartare, and the fresh fish sashimi with soba noodles are all must-tries. The waitstaff wear the statement black Mykonos Boy T-shirts, on sale in the boutique, where you’ll also find items by denizens of JackieO’, such as English designer Neil Barrett. The black beach towels offered to swimmers at the pool are best-selling souvenirs. Currently, the owners are working feverishly to open a hotel.

Ftelia: Against the Wind

Located on the north side of the island, Ftelia is a favorite of surfers defined by the hippie-chic vibes of the beach bar Alemagou (alemagou.gr), which has put this beach on the list of must-visits on Mykonos. With its ethnic decor, carpets on the sand, tribal music, and boutique redolent of a desert scene, Alemagou stakes claim to the island’s boho visitors, who party until dawn at its legendary parties. Recommended from the kitchen are the seafood pastas, with sea urchin or bottarga.

New this year is The Sanctuary (thesanctuaryecoretreat.com/mykonos), serving Mediterranean cuisine and promising a calm refuge in the sand – in contrast to the powerful beats of the DJs at Ftelia Pacha (fteliapacha.com) across the small bay.

Scorpios beachfront at Paraga.

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Principote Beach Club

From Psarou to Panormo

Psarou Beach is like the Las Vegas of the Cyclades; the world-famous Nammos restaurant (nammos.com) is the jewel in its crown, with an endless party mood, top-quality service with heaps of champagne and anything else you may desire. Here, people get close to one another – both literally, since the distance between the sun loungers is minimal, and metaphorically, as everyone is in the mood for fun and socializing. Guests are usually dressed in leading fashion brands; if you’ve come unprepared, you can always stock up at Luisa Beach (luisaworld.com) or the boutiques at the Nammos Village shopping mall.

If the party scene on the beach isn’t for you, head to Alfiere for a relaxing glass of spumante and some pizza, or drop in for a look at the modern art in Eden Gallery (eden-gallery.com).

For more luxury, head to the other side of the island to check out Panormos Beach and the club-restaurant Principote(principote.com), with VIP spaces, a sushi bar, and a shisha experience worthy of Dubai glamour.

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Party cool

Things are much calmer at Aghios Ioannis, where the winds are mild and the swimming is great. You can indulge in shellfish at Hippie Fish (hippiefish-mykonos.com) or take a dip at newly upgraded Pili Beach. Meat eaters should try the BeefBar(beefbar.com/ mykonos), where award-winning chef Dinos Fotinakis has created a gyro from Kobe beef that complements the signature mashed potatoes found in BeefBars around the world. The day menu includes seafood, with grilled lobster one of the highlights. At the renowned Bill & Coo (bill-coo-hotel.com), theres a patio for relaxed afternoon lazing and a beach for hotel guests.

For those in search of calm, understated luxury and delicious meze, the place to be is Pere Ubu, at the hotel Kalesma (kalesmamykonos.com) in Aleomandra, with lovely views over the village of Ornos and music by inhouse DJs. In the same area, the gourmet Nero Nero restaurant (neromykonos.com) at the hotel Kivotos is fine dining at its best in one of the island’s first boutique SUMMER 2022

hotels. On Lia Beach, the Liasti resort (liastimykonos.com) serves Mediterranean cuisine; those in the know mostly go for Massimo’s delicious pasta.

Before or after your meal, you can relax on the sand in comfortable pillow loungers by the sea. You can also try snorkeling off Lia with help from the professionals at Go Dive Mykonos (godivemykonos.com).

At Aghia Anna Beach next to Kalafatis, the water is a turquoise hue. In addition to great swimming, you can also indulge in a meal at the taverna Spilia (spiliarestaurant.gr); generous servings of delicious lobster spaghetti arrive in a dreamlike setting ideal for large groups and families.

On Ornos Bay, the Santa Marina Resort beach (santa-marina.gr) is idyllic – make a reservation for a sun lounger and umbrella or one of the large cocoons. The spa services in the hotel are highly recommended, too.

Here, you’ll also find Buddha-Bar, part of the international bar restaurant chain, as well as Mykonos Social, featuring a menu created by chef Jason Atherton.

Coya

© ROBERT RIEGER

Nōema

© PERIKLES MERAKOS

180° Sunset bar

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Left: Horseriding at Fokos beach.

Middle: At Delos, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Right: Seeing the land from the sea; kayaking along the coast.

Old Mykonos

perfect places for some swimming and good food without the huge crowds of other spots. The seabed of Elia rewards those who bring a mask and snorkel. The family-oriented taverna Agrari Beach(agraribeach.gr), on the beach of the same name, serves homemade Greek cuisine and the best portokalopita, a syrupy orange cake, to finish up. Fokos Taverna on Fokos Beach in the northeast of the island is a step back in time, in the best way. If you’re lucky, there’ll be a serving of pastitsio left.

If not, Marissa can help you choose something else; I recommend the calamari with white beans. Everything here is cooked simply and is delicious; Chronis does wonders on the grill. Should you visit on a windless day, Fokos is one of the best beaches on the island, and relatively untouched.

On the way to Fokos, you’ll see a sign for Rizes Folklore Farmstead, a traditional rural home with tables outside and wonderful Greek food. It’s perfect for children; they can safely engage with the animals and try riding the horses.

You can also ride to Fokos Beach with Mykonos Horseland (mykonoshorse.com).

Bring a beach umbrella with you when you walk to Aghios Sostis Beach. Alternatively, come by sea with Mykonos Kayak (mykonoskayak.com) as you explore the wild beauty of the coast. Don’t be surprised by the huge queue for Kiki’s, an eatery that has remained unspoiled since the 1980s – but arrive early, as it closes in the afternoon.

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© PERIKLES MERAKOS, GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

ELIA AND KALO LIVADI beaches don’t maintain a waiting list; instead, they’re

In simple Greek

Mykonos has an interior as well as a coastline; in the village of Ano Mera you can see a side of the island most tourists miss, a world where children ride their bicycles around a village square while their parents relax in small groups nearby. If you’re on the island on August 15, make sure to attend the traditional paniyiri (local festival) in this square.

After walking around Ano Mera, head to Vangelis for meat, Tsaf for fish, Odos Araxame for Greek food, or Oti Apomeine for home-cooked dishes and suckling pig. At Koutsothanasis Bakery, you can pick up snacks to go, as you can at the Tyrokomio Mykonou (tyrokomiomykonou.gr), which sells some of the creamiest yogurts you’ll ever taste. At Mykonos Farmers Dairy (mykonosfarmers.com) in Aghios Lazaros you can try local delicacies, join a tour or take cooking lessons to learn traditional recipes. High up in the village of Aghios Stefanos, Limnios Tavern (limniostavern.com) has lovely views, great meze, ribs on the grill, and Greek wine and music. The traditional atmosphere might make you forget you’re on cosmopolitan Mykonos.

Hora: The classics

Following a period when the beaches had won the food wars, Hora is gaining ground with top-notch options. You can swim at the town beach after enjoying a leisurely breakfast at one of the many spots in town. Next to the town hall, you’ll find Jackie O’ Cantina (jackieomykonos.com) which serves vegan and gluten-free crêpes, including an Indian version with dough made from fermented rice and lentils. Noema Restaurant (noemamykonos.com) is nestled in a lovely courtyard hidden among the narrow streets; guests of this luxury destination are exceptionally stylish. Star chef Athinagoras Kostakos has created a menu based on Greek dishes with clever twists, and the music, whether live or a DJ set, is different every night. The courtyard of Coya Restaurant (coyarestaurant.com) is ideal for Latin American soirées and Peruvian

flavors bundled into small, tasty dishes.

Parties with fireworks and late-night table-dancing are not unlikely.

The legendary Japanese fusion restaurant Matsuhisa reigns at the Belvedere Hotel (belvederehotel.com), with dishes created by chef Nobu, who visits often. Signature dishes such as miso-marinated black cod and yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno are consistently popular. Lovers of Italian cuisine should head to Catari (catari.gr), with its lovely balcony and a 1950s feel. Together with Na’Verace(naverace.com) at Drafaki, they serve the best pizza on the island.

Filmgoers will love Cine Manto in the heart of Hora (cinemanto.gr).

The first screening of the day is always a children’s movie.

I advise a stop at Aroma Bar (aromamykonos.com), where everyone goes to find out which famous people have arrived on the island or to have their photo taken by paparazzi. If you’d rather avoid such large numbers, head instead to the Windmills for photographs with an iconic view, followed by dinner and drinks somewhere in Little Venice or fish and fun at Mykonos by Gryparis (mykonosbygryparis.com), next to the sea.

On a hill above Hora is the 180° Sunset Bar (180.bar), with lovely cocktails and amazing sunset views.

Into the night

No matter how many new places open, the nights in Mykonos will always belong to a select few. The newly

opened, ultra-stylish JackieO’ Mykonos Yacht Club (jackieomykonos.com/ yacht-club) has live parties featuring famous singers such as Barbara Tucker.

Its unique decor and its views are best enjoyed with a champagne cocktail in hand. The Astra Bar (astra-mykonos. com) at Tria Pigadia was designed by the legendary Minas, an inspired creator of Greek jewelry; it remains the hippest bar with the best music on Mykonos.

The most serious indoor club, with an amazing sound system, is Void (void-mykonos.com); if you prefer a sexy cabaret atmosphere, good food and live shows, head to Lio (liomykonos.com).

Last but not least is the clubber’s haven, Cavo Paradiso (cavoparadiso. gr) on Paradise Beach, where you can dance to music spun by star DJs until sunrise; bring your sunglasses for the walk home in the morning. The 1990s superstar David Morales celebrates his birthday here every August.

Trips not to miss

Kapari beach is ideal for afternoon swims, and it’s the perfect place to admire the sunset as you gaze out toward the island of Delos. It’s also worth reserving a day for a boat trip to the island of Rinia, a paradise that offers tranquil vistas and unforgettable dips in emerald waters. You’ll certainly want to visit Delos to admire the antiquities. Laurent of L’o Yachting Mykonos (loyachting. com) can take you there, and ensure you a unique experience. •

Iconic Mykonos; the famous windmills above Hora.

Astypalea

Shimmering & Sustainable

View of Hora, the stunning capital of the island.

THE DODECANESE ISLAND THAT FEELS LIKE IT BELONGS IN THE CYCLADES CONTINUES TO WIN VISITORS’ HEARTS AND MINDS, EVEN AS IT UNDERTAKES MAJOR SUSTAINABLE ENERGY PROJECTS. T E X T A N D P H OTO G R A P H S : O LG A C H A R A M I

Astypalea

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T THE CAPITAL OF ASTYPALEA,

Hora, was built so as to be invisible from the sea but visible from almost all of the island; it’s hard to escape its presence. I see it now, at 07:00, from the balcony of the Kallichoron Art Hotel, as I breakfast on freshly made chloro cheese, honey and the small pies known as pougia – award-winning cooking the hotel also offers to non-guests. As I eat, I see the amazing sunrise while windmills turn

pink and birdsong wakes the island.

Astypalea was designated a “smart” island in June 2021, with the Greek prime minister, cabinet members and journalists from all around the world descending on this small corner of the southeastern Aegean. They spoke of green energy, inaugurated electric car charging stations and donated gas-free vehicles to the local municipality. According to the plan for its eco-friendly transition, Astypalea will cover all its energy needs with renewable power from a solar park and a wind turbine within the next few years, and all vehicles will be electric-powered. The islanders, for their part, are concerned by the prospect of wind turbines cropping up all over and have been resisting such plans for some time. Some argue that nothing is going to come of the scheme, while others say it may succeed in part, as it did on Tilos. Others simply don’t care.

Nonetheless, in just a year there’s been

Summer fun at Livadi Beach.

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an increase in electric car purchases by locals, and many rental cars and official state vehicles have been replaced by electric-powered ones. Charging stations have sprouted up in all the settlements, and an initiative called Asty MOVE that includes a car-sharing program called Asty Go and an Asty Bus shuttle service has been introduced.

I don’t know whether people will choose Astypalea for their vacation because it’s “smart” or “green,” but other reasons to visit are abundantly obvious.

It has one of the loveliest main towns in the Aegean, many different beaches, good food and a great atmosphere.

Green energy is probably not foremost on the mind of Kyra Stavroula, who keeps goats in Vathy; of Theodosis, who sails out every dawn looking to land some fish; of Gavriil, who tends to his beehives on the island’s barren hillsides; or of the women who make the local pasta. For the time being at

The whitewash in the alleys of Hora is well maintained.

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least, Astypalea has just one asphalted street, lots of bumpy dirt roads, inaccessible hillsides, wild goats, sheep, a few cows, bee farms, cactuses and laurel trees – and an abundance of churches and chapels. In the eastern part of the island, where there are fewer beaches and they tend to be wilder, you rarely even see another person about. People come through this area, known as Mesa Nisi, mainly on the way to the village of Vathy, to the small self-service taverna Galini, where Mama Maria, as the cook likes to call herself, fries up platters of fresh fish and calls you into the kitchen to get them. And that’s about it. Otherwise, it’s a massive, uninviting lagoon-like bay with nothing but pens for livestock and drystone walls.

The more popular beaches are located in Livadi, a lush valley that stretches from the dam and the artificial lake down to the coast. With rooms to let and restaurants, Analipsi (or Maltezena) is also quite cosmopolitan. Other swimming spots include Aghios Konstantinos with its pretty beach bar; the nudist beach Tzanakia; Vatses, also with a nice beach bar but no cellphone coverage; and Kaminakia, with tamarisk trees providing shade and a famous taverna. On the narrowest part of the island, Steno is very popular among families with young children, thanks to its shallow waters, natural shade and snack bar. Ble Limanaki, a tiny beach next to Maltezana, is so small you might not find room to lay down your towel but it’s very pleasant if you do. Plakes has both pebbles and large slabs of stone that make great diving boards and tanning beds, and Psili Ammos is one of the island’s few beaches with a golden mix of fine pebbles and coarse sand.

There are many more beaches on Astypalea to be explored but, if you ask around, everyone will advise a tour to the nearby islets of Koutsomytis and Kounoupes. Depending on crowd size, your swim will either be peaceful or very noisy. Kounoupes also has a small beach bar where you can get cold beer, a few cocktails and even ceviche: “It’s an easy 1 0 8 — GREECE IS

At times, moving around Hora can be an uphill struggle.

dish as far as I’m concerned, not something fancy,” says its owner. A boat (or your own two feet) can get you to Kokkinos Gremos, where there’s no beach to speak of, but impressive rocks with caves you can explore. If you’re looking for some solitude, try Ai Yiannis Makris or Ai Yiannis Richtis. The former has a lovely church right at the start of the path that takes you down to the beach and is worth visiting in its own right, while the latter has a waterfall and a more challenging path.

There are trails aplenty on the island, and the Pardalo Katsiki team organizes weekly excursions while also

THE MORE POPUL AR BE ACHES ARE LOCATED IN LIVADI, A LUSH VALLE Y THAT STRE TCHES FROM THE DAM AND THE ARTIFICIAL L AKE DOWN TO THE COAST. SUMMER 2022

spearheading efforts to open and signpost new paths and promote walking tourism.

Special flavors

Linda is an amazing cook; together with her husband Tasos and son Kostadios, she runs a restaurant in Kaminakia (called Linda’s) and one of the island’s two certified cheese-making workshops, where you can get local cheeses such as chloro, anthotyro and ladotyri, the last with pepper or saffron.

They raise their own animals and have a garden where they grow herbs and vegetables, not to mention a vineyard where they’re in the process of building a modern winery. It’s a wonder how they find time for it all.

The people of Astypalea are a productive lot. There are thousands of sheep and goats on the island, so it produces some amazing cheeses, while goat also stars in a variety of local dishes (cooked in the oven or on the stove). They make different kinds of pasta with all sorts of sauces and toppings (including chloro and saffron), large dunking cookies called kitrinokouloura, and pougia, small pies stuffed with kopanisti or chloro cheese, honey and cinnamon. The

Above: The manmade lake in Livadi and the dam that formed it. Below left: The lending library inside the windmill.

Below right: Sunrise at the windmills.

Astypalea

DISCOVER

island’s fleet of fishing boats can be seen bobbing in Pera Gialos, Hora’s port, and in Maltezana.

Almost every household on the island makes rusks, but Dimitris Petridenas made them his business and produces items under the brand name Iliana; these include rusks and breadsticks with oregano, thyme, chloro or saffron, which he packages and exports across the globe. Saffron grows well on the island and is collected by locals and stored in drawers like a valuable commodity.

They all have their own secret way of harvesting the delicate spice and won’t share the knowledge, even with their children – “Except on my deathbed,” one tells me, giggling.

Charming Hora

In the capital, small sugar-cube houses with narrow windows and rooftop terraces – so typical of the Cyclades – share streets with elegant and boldly painted townhouses, showcases of Dodecanese architecture made of hewn

IN THE CAPITAL , SMALL SUG ARCUBE HOUSES WITH NARROW WINDOWS AND ROOF TOP TERRACES – SO T YPICAL OF THE CYCL ADES – SHARE STREE TS WITH ELEG ANT AND BOLDLY PAINTED TOWNHOUSES.

The crystal clear waters of Kounoupes.

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stone blocks, with large windows, lintels and rosettes. Astypalea’s landmark windmills and most of the town’s businesses are in the lower part of the town, near the main square. Within one of the windmills, Stella Papadopoulou has created a wonderful lending library that specializes in works by Greek authors and poets that have been translated into many different languages; she also runs a library with books in Greek across the street.

The only ancient cemetery for infants in the world was discovered on the hillside below Hora. The site is not open to the public, but you can learn about the custom of burying the dead sealed in clay vessels at the archaeological museum in Pera Gialos. It also contains finds from Mycenaean burial sites found on the islands, as well as information about the Roman baths of Maltezana, which are also not open to the public. A walk around Hora’s streets is usually a quiet affair, as the town has very few permanent residents and most

of its houses have been bought and restored by foreign visitors. You can spend hours wandering around the different neighborhoods, peeking into churches, enjoying the quaint little streets and small architectural details. The stray cats begging for attention and food will keep you company all the way up to the fortified district built by the Querini family in the 13th century. Among the ruins here are the foundations of old houses and the churches of Aghios Georgios and the Virgin Mary, from the 18th and 19th centuries respectively. Only the houses right on the edge of the fortified area remain, as their walls were also part of the castle walls. Hora is basically a copy of that settlement, which existed until the 1940s. It’s said that the residents took whatever building materials they needed when they resettled outside the old walls. If you climb up to the house rooftops, you’ll be treated to an incredible view of Hora, spread out like a fan beneath your feet, and of the vast blue sea. •

At play in the old part of Hora.

• Archaeological Museum, Tel. (+30) 22430.615.00).

info

• Lending Library, Stella Papadopoulou, Tel. (+30) 694.981.9261).

• Pardalo Katsiki, Tasos Kontaratos, Tel. (+30) 698.120.0312).

W H E R E TO E AT At the other end of the island in Vathy, the small taverna Galini (Tel. (+30) 22430.612.01) makes you feel right at home as you go into the kitchen to pick up your plate of fish, supplied to the kitchen by the family fishing boat. In Steno, Kantina (Tel. (+30) 697.155.0927) on the beach is much more than a snack bar and serves hearty fare such as local lamb, pasta dishes and some cheeses they make themselves. Almyra (Tel. (+30) 22430.614.51) in Maltezana serves very good food, including unusual seafood dishes, in a pretty and relaxing setting. If it’s fish you’re after, Astropelos (Tel. (+30) 22430.614.73) in Livadi is a good option, but you should call ahead to reserve your main dishes as quantities can be limited. In Hora, you should definitely drop in at Apanemia (Tel. (+30) 22430.621.90). It has very nice atmosphere and delicious meze. For handmade pasta and seafood, try Agoni Grammi (Tel. (+30) 22430.621.02). Ageri (Tel. (+30) 22430.617.77) has simple, honest food. In Pera Gialos, try the excellent Cretan raki-meze restaurant Salis (Tel. (+30) 22430.621.83), Turquoise (Tel. (+30) 22430.622.86) for snacks like peinirli and lahmacun, and Antikastro (Tel. (+30) 22430.623.16) for classic taverna fare.

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Symi A Jewel

Symi

in the Dodecanese NEOCLASSICAL ARCHITECTURE, RICH GASTRONOMY, ENCHANTING BEACHES AND LOYAL REPEAT VISITORS MAKE THIS ISLAND SPECIAL. Β Υ E L E F T H E R I A A L AVA N O U P H OTO S : N I C H O L A S M A S TO R A S

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Locals in traditional costumes pose in the large cedar forest of Symi, a great place for hiking.

Left: The port of Gialos, with its neoclassical houses, was built in just 50 years between 1860 and 1910, while the sponge-fishing industry flourished on the island.

Symi

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S SHE SPEAKS FIRST. “I’m called Melissa. My name is Greek.” He says: “I’m Neil. My name is the same as the first person to walk on the moon!”

I’m talking to Melissa and Neil, two English retirees on Symi, an island they clearly love.

They’re not the only ones. Dozens of couples from northern Europe adore this small Dodecanese island – in fact, many have bought property and live here, either for half the year or all year round. That’s high praise indeed for Symi.

All these people belong to the baby boomer generation. They grew up as the world was prospering, they worked hard, traveled, and earned money. And now, in the third phase of their life, when they are wiser and perhaps freer, when they could be anywhere they want doing anything they wish, they choose to leave their homelands, their relatives and sometimes even their grown children to settle on an island in the Aegean where access depends on the weather conditions, where there’s one main road and where the island’s permanent residents add up to no more than the population of a small neighborhood back home.

People from Britain, France and Scandinavia flock to Symi en masse to enjoy a lifestyle that their countries cannot offer them: pebbled beaches with warm waters where goats graze on samphire, and dirt roads where tortoises cross at their own pace. Symi seems to have no connection to their native lands, but there is a link, and strangely 1 1 4 — GREECE IS

THIS WEALTH OF NEOCLASSICISM, WITH A HINT OF SYMIOT SPIRIT, COEXISTS WITH TRADITIONAL ELEMENTS SUCH AS PEBBLE MOSAIC FLOORING, STONE ARCHES AND WHITE-WASHED SQUARES WITH ENORMOUS PLANE TREES. SUMMER 2022

Panoramic view of Symi. The nearly arid landscape on view here is deceiving, since a large part of the island is covered by a dense cedar forest.

enough, it’s neoclassical architecture, an architectural style based on Greek and Roman history but brought to this island from colder climes.

The neoclassical structures of Symi came about because of the travels of Symiot sea sponge merchants throughout Europe in the late 19th century. A hundred years later, these houses, an expression of wealth and worldliness, still stand, either in renovated splendor or in need of help, depending on the financial status of each owner. A walk from Gialos to Horio (the two main villages connected via Kali Strata, an enormous staircase with hundreds of steps) takes you past scores of wonderful multicolored neoclassical houses in different shades of ochre or maroon and blue, with the characteristic neoclassical pediments that are essential elements of Symiot architecture.

With impressive originality, the Symiots have created pediments everywhere, from church bell towers to gateways; imagine an exterior door with a triple pediment – a central one with two smaller ones underneath, carved into the wooden door. This wealth of neoclassicism, with a hint of Symiot spirit, coexists with traditional elements such as pebble mosaic flooring, stone arches and white-washed squares with enormous plane trees. What’s more, it’s traditional Greek music that floats out over the steps from the open windows of these houses.

Gastronomy and nature

This atypical mansion does not have a pediment, an architectural element borrowed from ancient Greek temples and the most characteristic feature of the island’s neoclassical houses.

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As you walk around town, older residents may greet you and offer you ammoniakena (cookies made with baker’s ammonia and lemon juice) and zaharenia (cookies with powdered sugar).

These unexpected encounters can be very educational, and visitors can pick up handy information on local cuisine, which goes far beyond the famed Symi shrimp (even though they’re caught in seas off various islands of the Dodecanese, these small creatures are known everywhere as “Symi” shrimp).

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Symi

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If someone truly wishes to explore the cooking of Symi, it’s worthwhile tracking down the book “Like Two Peas in a Pansy Pod” by two Symiots, Emmanuel K. Moraris and Dikea Maravelia, which presents traditional recipes through a contemporary lens.

Flipping through its pages, readers can learn about local dishes such as palamidosoupa (bonito fish soup), achtapomakarounada (octopus spaghetti), fava xerotiganisi (yellow split peas with gently fried onions), and krommidenia giaprakia (stuffed vine leaves with onions). There’s also a recipe for Paermiotis’ baby goat.

Each recipe is accompanied by “Grandma’s tip,” a piece of advice on cooking techniques, and some nutritional information. For instance, to return to the famed Symi shrimp, the book’s authors recommend frying them until the shrimp acquire a deep orange color and to finish by dressing them 1 1 6 — GREECE IS

At midday in summer on Symi, the heat keeps the streets empty.

PEOPLE FROM BRITAIN, FRANCE AND SCANDINAVIA FLOCK TO SYMI EN MASSE TO ENJOY A LIFESTYLE THAT THEIR COUNTRIES CANNOT OFFER THEM. SUMMER 2022

with lemon juice, freshly squeezed. For this recipe, “Grandma’s tip” is to add garlic and green bell peppers for a more intense flavor. The highlight of this useful edition, which shares with readers the gastronomic wealth of Symi, is a glossary of Symiot cooking terminology: livgoume means “spread,” gdi is the local term for a mortar and pestle, patelines are limpets and argania is oregano.

Another aspect of Symi that deserves exploration is its nature. As you walk along Gialos, you may be fooled into thinking that Symi is a dry, barren island filled with neoclassical buildings and a few scattered trees. But this is only partially true, as inland there is a large, dense cedar forest made up of self-seeded trees. Take a walk through this verdant green landscape and experience a less urban Symi, with unspoiled nature and clean air, where the silence is interrupted only by bleating of goats and the sound of their bells. This side of Symi offers a welcome change from the inhabited areas of the island, for while the neoclassical buildings are indeed beautiful, the town can be too much at times, especially in the summer when the heat is intense, there are tourists everywhere, and there’s too much noise from cars and mopeds rolling by.

It’s towards this great forest that we are heading on a Friday afternoon.

We drive towards Panagia Hames and then, once we pass not the first but the second road sign indicating “Monastery of Sotiris Mikros,” we park the car on a small flat area and take the footpath. It’s a comfortable 20-minute walk of easy to medium difficulty, flanked by trees growing from rock crevices. You really cannot escape the rocks here; they coexist in perfect harmony with the verdant forest, as stone complements cedar, and vice versa. The bucolic Monastery of Sotiris Mikros welcomes us: flanked by two stone walls, the courtyard is filled with yellow dry grass in which sit two turkeys. There’s not a soul to be seen.

At Gialos port, there was noise and cars everywhere; at Sotiris Mikros, we have the forest to ourselves.

A ceiling painting depicting the god Eros at the 1900 Hotel, a boutique hotel housed in a historic neoclassical building on Symi. Bottom: Walking on Kali Strata, a public stairway with about 500 steps that connects Gialos with Horio.

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Symi

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Sunbathing at Aghios Georgios Dysalonas, considered by many the most beautiful beach on Symi.

Skirting the shore

We’ve seen much on this trip; multicolored neoclassical mansions, a verdant green cedar forest sprouting from fields of rock, and some intriguing examples of traditional cuisine.

But we’ve yet to see any beaches, and our ideal guide for that is – who else?

– “Poseidon,” the traditional 17-metre wooden yacht owned by Giannis Giannikos, who’s been operating the vessel for the last 28 years.

The boat “Poseidon” goes around the island every day, stopping at many beaches along the way: Aghios Emilianos, Aghios Vasilis, Fokospilia, Seskli Islet and Aghios Georgios Dysalonas.

We’re unlucky on the weather front as heavy north-westerly winds prevent us from approaching the beaches on the west coast, leaving us just the eastern and southern parts of the island.

First stop is Aghios Georgios Dysalonas, the beach generally thought to be the most beautiful on the island, with its steep cliff faces. We don’t reach the shore; instead, the boat slows down 1 1 8 — GREECE IS

YOU REALLY CANNOT ESCAPE THE ROCKS HERE; THEY COEXIST IN PERFECT HARMONY WITH THE VERDANT FOREST, AS STONE COMPLEMENTS CEDAR, AND VICE VERSA. SUMMER 2022

and then, one after another, Scandinavian, French and British tourists jump into the sea.

Next stop is Seskli Islet. Again, the sea fills with tourists and we all enjoy an amazing swim before heading ashore for a feast under the wild olive trees; there’s Greek salad, potato salad, fasolakia (Greek green braised beans), beetroot, curry rice, pasta and gigantes (oven baked broad beans) with regato cheese. “Because many people are vegetarians, we avoid too much meat,” says the captain as we sit on benches in the shade of the trees, much like children at summer camp.

There are happy faces all around us; the foreign tourists, enchanted by the beauty of Symi, and the Greek crew members who’ve chosen to stay here rather than relocating to their larger, and even more touristic neighbor Rhodes. How come? Because they love Symi. In fact, it seems that everyone at this table, whether Symiot by blood or by choice, is happy to come back again and again for more.

New life for a historical neoclassical building

Photographers will find plenty to catch their eye in the alleyways of Symi’s two main settlements.

The name Fotis Mastoridis will never be forgotten in Symi, as he brought the first autonomous diving suit (“scafandro” in Greek) to the island in 1860, giving rise to sponge fishing and economic growth. At the end of the 19th century, Mastoridis built a single neoclassical mansion on Gialos; last year, that building began a new chapter in its life when it became home to the 1900 Hotel.

Architect Dimitris Zografos and civil engineer Kostas Rizopoulos were in charge of restoring the two-story mansion to its former glory. When they scraped the walls, they found dark colors such as deep ochre, dark green and dark grey. They decided to follow a

similar color scheme, continuing the dark shades of the ceilings down to the walls.

Ornate ceiling paintings (the main suite boasts four cupids, the dining room a bowl of fruit) were preserved, even as the number of rooms changed; eight have become four to provide extra space for the guests.

If the larger rooms don’t make visitors feel more at home, then perhaps the business model will. The hotel operates without reception personnel or keys; instead, there are passcodes and what’s known as “honesty” bars, where visitors can serve themselves (tea, coffee, drinks) and then be charged for whatever they claim they consumed without anybody checking. In other words, it’s based on the same bonds of trust that make a house a home.

(1900hotel.com) •

info WHERE TO EAT Two restaurant choices are Tholos (Tel. (+30) 694.099.7916) and Pandelis (Tel. (+30) 697.726.1710), establishments that maintain the highest standards regarding the quality of their food and service. The Secret Garden (Tel. (+30) 22460.721.53) is a special place for wonderful meze.

EXCURSIONS Two enjoyable and very different excursions are to Horio (by foot) and to the Holy Monastery of Archangel Michael Panormitis (by car).

Visitors usually ascend to Horio via the Kali Strata, but the route is rather tiring. It would be more practical to take a taxi from the port up to Panagia Peiraiotissa, and then explore Horio, including both the abandoned preneoclassical buildings and the incomplete or restored neoclassical mansions, on the walk back down to Gialos. For Panormitis Monastery, the most famous monastery on Symi (20km, 30 minutes), it’s best to travel by car. This citadel, nestled in a verdant gulf on the south of the island, makes an excellent lateafternoon destination; take a seat on a bench near the sea and enjoy the sunset.

BY BOAT For information on a boat tour of the island aboard the “Poseidon,” visit the website symiexcursions.com.

ONSCREEN Photogenic Symi is an Instagram favorite. Check out these accounts on Instagram: seeme_in_symi and symimages. You might also enjoy the multi award-winning short documentary “Symi – The Mamaland”

by Stamatis Liontos, available on YouTube.

BOOK You’ll find the book “Like Two Peas in a Pansy Pod” on sale at the Panormitis Bakery in Gialos (Tel. (+30) 22470.702.77).

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WHILE NOT A WELLKNOWN VACATION DESTINATION, TILOS IS PERFECT FOR THOSE IN SEARCH OF A PLACE WITH HISTORY, UNSPOILED NATURAL BEAUTY, AND A TRAILBLAZING APPROACH TO SUSTAINABLE TOURISM. Β Υ J O H N PA PA D I M I T R I O U P H OTO S : M I C H A E L PA P PA S

Tilos

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The first swim for most visitors takes place at Livadia, a long pebbled beach near the port.

Left: An alleyway in Megalo Horio.

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Tilos

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T TILOS IS A SMALL ISLAND be-

tween Kos and Rhodes in the Dodecanese, with a population of about 500 permanent residents. According to mythology, it got its name from Tilos, the son of Alia, sister of Helios. The myth says that when Alia fell ill, Tilos came to this island to gather herbs to cure her.

Once she recovered, he built a temple here in honor of the god Apollo.

The capital of Tilos is Megalo Horio, the port is called Livadia, and there are two other settlements: Eristos and Aghios Antonios. There are many spots of archaeological and religious interest, including the chapel of Panagia Politissa, dating from 1879 and just 2.5 kilometers from the port, as well as the abandoned settlement of Gera where, up until WWII, the residents of Mikro Horio maintained seasonal shelters they lived in while farming in the summer fields.

Over the past decade, Tilos has been trying to establish itself as a model for sustainable tourism. It came to be known as the first “green” island in the Mediterranean by providing its residents with energy sourced exclusively from renewable resources. The island is home to a single wind turbine, located in a remote site on Akri Punta Cape, and a small photovoltaic park.

Tilos also became the first island in the world to abolish landfills; instead, it has implemented a comprehensive waste management program, Just Go Zero Tilos. This more environmentally friendly approach, in combination with the variety of activities on offer, such as 1 2 2 — GREECE IS

hiking and birdwatching, as well as its beautiful beaches, makes Tilos a compelling summer destination and a role model for sustainable tourism.

Walks in Megalo Horio

With Byzantine chapels, abandoned settlements and a crisscrossing network of old stone walls, Tilos is filled with surprises; perhaps none are more charming than its main village. Birds chirp in the branches of fig and aromatic lemon trees that cast shade over quaint courtyards. The village’s labyrinthine alleyways are often just wide enough for two persons to pass. Throughout the streets, there are whitewashed walls and colored doors and sets of steps framed by bougainvilleas, and sometimes you come across a wild goat right here in the village. A section of the settlement’s ancient wall, which dates from the first half of the 4th century BC, is still visible; on Tilos, the past lives in the present.

Megalo Horio is built amphitheatrically on the western slope of Aghios Stefanos mountain, under the medieval castle of Messaria, one of the seven castles on the island. Inside the castle walls once stood the ancient temple of Zeus Polieus and Athena Polias, while today the Church of the Taxiarchis can be found here. Reaching the castle via the footpath should take about half an hour; the path traverses the ancient settlement dating from the Classical and Hellenistic periods. “The houses of the 4th-century BC Doric town were built higher up on the slopes than the houses we see today. They were mostly rectangular in shape and were built over large tanks that collected rainwater,” explains architect Seva Vasilara, who has restored over 25 traditional residences in Tilos.

The gorgeous cobblestone square, adjacent to the Church of the Archangel Michael and the Old Town Hall, lies at the heart of the village, but as sunset begins, it’s perhaps best to head for the Church of the Panagia to admire the views down to Eristos Beach.

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The picturesque fishing village of Aghios Antonios.

TILOS BECAME THE FIRST ISLAND IN THE WORLD TO ABOLISH LANDFILLS, IMPLEMENTING A WASTE MANAGEMENT PROGRAM CALLED “JUST GO ZERO TILOS.” SOUTH AEGEAN

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Aghios Antonios for local meze

In the fishing village of Aghios Antonios, in the northern part of the island, you’ll come across a fully-equiped dairy that’s housed in a shipping container! The Irinna dairy uses goat’s milk to produce cheeses such as thalassotyri, a fresh cheese immersed in saltwater for 24 hours, and other products. At the shore, you’ll find an ancient cemetery that dates to 655-657 B.C., with fossilized skeletons still visible under the water. At the edge of the settlement, Eleni Kamma has been serving seafood delicacies and home-cooked dishes for the last 35 years at “To Delfini” taverna. She pickles capers, prepares her own fava, fries fish caught the same day, and makes the famed Tilos kid goat cooked in parchment paper. For something sweet after dinner, head to the neighboring cafe, “O Gialos,” to indulge in exceptional Greek coffee and handmade sweets such as galaktoboureko, a treat rich in custard. This is a very relaxing spot, and the trees offer plenty of shade, so you can come here during the day as well.

Sunset at Aghios Panteleimonas

Built on a desolate slope of Kriallos Hill in the northwestern part of Tilos, the Monastery of Aghios Panteleimonas was founded in 1470 by the monk Jonas and renovated in 1703. Its courtyard, surrounded by very tall cypress trees and old plane trees, is paved with a wonderful black and white pebble mosaic. The building complex, with its stone tower, low doors and narrow streets, is reminiscent of a small citadel. As the bullet marks on the outer metal-plated door attest, the monastery was often attacked by pirates; financially independent and boasting a water mill, olive mills and a sheep pen, it was a tempting target. Its wooden iconostasis was created in 1714, while the Christ Pantocrator fresco in the dome and the Holy Trinity fresco on the interior arch date from 1776. Standing 1 2 4 — GREECE IS

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Clockwise from top left: Tilos has a network of walking paths.

There are many well-preserved traditional stone houses.

The cobbled square in front of the Old Town Hall in Megalo Horio, near the Church of the Archangel Michael.

Sunset at Plaka.

The island’s only wind turbine is faintly visible in the background.

Giorgos Charalambakis, owner of the oldest coffee shop on the island.

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Tilos fertile fields that were owned by residents of Megalo Horio. Their houses in Mikro Horio were, for the most part, one-roomed, as they would only go home to sleep. The empty village is the site of one of the more notable chapels of the 125 such buildings scattered across the island; the restored Timia Zoni chapel, with its rare fresco of Saint Christopher the Cynocephalus (“Dog-headed”). When night falls, life comes back to the settlement, even if just for the evening, as patrons of the Mikro Horio Bar gather to have a quiet drink. With the low lighting and the tranquil setting, it seems as if you’re on a movie set.

Dwarf Elephants

On the door of the Monastery of Aghios Panteleimonas, there are still indentations made by pirates’ bullets hundreds of years ago.

at an elevation of 270m, it offers views to Nisyros and Kos. As the sun sets, the mist that forms around Nisyros in the distance makes it seem as if that island is floating on air. Be careful while driving in the neighborhood of the monastery; the road twists and turns, and landslides are known to occur.

Drinking with ghosts

Time stopped forever in Mikro Horio in 1957. That was when the last resident of the medieval settlement moved away, and it remains completely abandoned to this day. After WWII, poverty and drought pushed its population, once 700 strong, towards Livadia.

As they left, they took with them sections of the roofs and window frames, because timber was scarce. They were all either farmers or animal breeders or both, and many of them worked in 1 2 6 — GREECE IS

TILOS HAS A LARGE NETWORK OF FOOTPATHS, SOME SIGNPOSTED, THAT EXTENDS ACROSS THE ENTIRE ISLAND. SUMMER 2022

Two million years ago, the area that’s now strewn with the islands of the Aegean was a single landmass scholars call Aegeida. Before rising sea levels created the island archipelago we know today, herds of animals could move across the land-bridge between Europe to Asia. In the Cave of Harkadio on Tilos, 15,000 bones from 100 dwarf elephants were discovered in 1971, the last of their kind in Europe. These mammals, which reached a height of 170 centimeters, arrived some 45,000 years ago; they became extinct around 2000 BC. Experts believe they took advantage of a much shallower sea to swim to the island. From the bones of deer, elephants and turtles found in the cave, research shows that the elephants coexisted with humans but that the deer had disappeared before the elephants arrived. In the Paleontological Museum near Megalo Horio, you can admire the fossilized bones of these dwarf elephants. The island’s Archaeological Museum, which will house objects, including golden jewelry, and examples of ancient inscriptions from the Classical and the Hellenistic periods, is expected to open in the summer of 2023.

Footpaths

Tilos has a large network of footpaths, some signposted, that extends

across the entire island. The island’s twelve hills are teeming with wild orchids, brushwood and all types of herbs, the perfect breeding ground for more than 100 bird species, 46 of which are endangered. Thankfully, hunting has been banned since 1993. At the “Ligo apo ola” store on the main square in the village of Livadia, you’ll find a map showing all the hiking routes on the island. It costs €5 and includes information on the difficulty levels of each hike and useful notes on the various natural features and historic and cultural monuments you’ll encounter en route. Tilos doesn’t have tall vegetation to offer much shade, so you’ll need to head out early in the morning and bring a hat and water.

We walked for about an hour from Livadia to the abandoned agricultural settlement of Geras. At the white Chapel of Aghios Ioannis on the way, we encountered 20 German hikers ready to head off to Despotis Nero Beach. A bit further up, personal trainer Zafiris Economou, born and bred in Tilos, was running down the mountain. “I love running on the edge of the slope with views of the sea and the coastline,” he says. The open-air gym “Street Workout” he set up on Livadia Beach welcomes locals and visitors and also operates as a training ground for groups of professional athletes from abroad.

Bathing with peacocks

On the northwestern edge of the island, four kilometers from the fishing village of Aghios Antonios and beyond the Chapel of Kamariani, you’ll find Plaka, a small beach with crystalline waters and fine pebbles mixed with sand, and a tall tamarisk tree for shade.

Turkey is visible across the water, and there’s dense vegetation here, including eucalyptus, cedar and pine trees.

This unexpected mini forest, where wild peacocks roam, is ideal for summer picnics and reading in the shade of the trees. The peacocks may, once

they’ve become accustomed to you, even follow you to the water’s edge. It’s also an ideal spot to enjoy the sunset, and it’s quiet; even in August, Plaka doesn’t attract crowds.

Enjoyable Dips

Tilos has 19 beaches, most accessible via footpaths or from the sea. Few are serviced; some stretches with sun loungers can be found near Livadia. Impressive Eristos is an sandy beach with some pebbles at end of the fertile valley of Megalo Horio. The municipal electric bus from Livadia stops here (€3 per ride). Cedar and tamarisk trees offer shade to the campers that gather each summer. To avoid the crowds, take the small footpath on the eastern side that leads to a small bay. You need to be careful in the water because the shallows have slippery algae-covered sandstone slabs.

You’ll find more blue waters on the other side of the island, at Lethra. We followed the cobbled footpath from Mikro Horio and passed wild pear, almond and terebinth trees (the last used in antiquity for perfumes and medicines) before reaching the long pebble beach about 30 minutes later.

Just before Lethra, we passed Kokkini Beach, hidden in a small south-facing bay. The iron in the sand gives the beach its characteristic reddish color; “kokkini” is Greek for “red.”

Perhaps the island’s best waters can be found in the sea around the islet

View from the harbor pier at dusk.

of Prasouda, whose sharp rocks provide perches for seagulls.

Recycling for everyone

In partnership with the Municipality of Tilos, and with permission from the Administrative Region of the Southern Aegean, the company Polygreen is implementing the Just Go Zero Tilos project, a comprehensive cyclical waste management program. Ιts goal is the complete reuse and recycling of all waste. You can learn more at the information center in Livadia Square, and pick up a fabric bag to use for your shopping during your stay here.

Make sure to separate your trash and place it in the appropriate bag, as all businesses, private houses and government facilities on the island already do. justgozero.com •

info • Irinna Dairy, Tel. (+30) 694.556.4090 • Taverna To Delfini, Tel. (+30) 22460.442.52 • Kafenion O Gialos, Tel. (+30) 22460.438.55 • Monastery of Aghios Panteleimonas, Tel. (+30) 22420.316.76 • Mikro Horio Bar, Tel. (+30) 694.375.4300 • Paleontological Museum, open every day, 09:00-20:00 • Street Workout by Zafiris, Tel. (+30) 693.753.9151

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EXPLORE

Patmos

A view of Hora and its castle.

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Theme

A landmark of Christendom

A BUSINESS MEETING AFFORDS THE OPPORTUNITY FOR A TOUR OF THIS ISLAND’S FAMED © SIME/VISUALHELLAS.GR

MONASTERY AND

SOUTH AEGEAN

A LOOK INTO ITS STIRRING HISTORY. Β Υ C H R I S TO S Z A M P O U N I S GREECE IS — 1 2 9

Patmos

DISCOVER

T THE HOUSE I’M STAYING in is a

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© GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

sea captain’s house. From the top floor, the captain could keep an eye on things in the port at Skala, and was able to see whether his crew was working or slacking off. The maritime trade is nothing new here. It was 1088 AD when Emperor Alexios I Komninos issued an imperial bull granting the monastery a license to trade at sea. Since then, Patmos has been inextricably linked with sea commerce and Greek naval history.

Some of the furniture in the house, such as the mirrors and hall console tables, were brought back by the shipping magnates of the times from their travels to other European ports. Other pieces, including wooden couches, tables, and chairs, were made by local master carpenters. On the walls hang platters with naturalistic motifs, and one – my favorite – has a crown painted on it. In the past, these would have only been brought out on formal occasions, serving mainly as displays of wealth.

Over 500 mansions like this survive in Hora. Half of them, perhaps more, have passed into foreign hands.

The monastery still owns a few of them, but mostly they are owned by enlightened foreigners – or equally enlightened Greeks. Given that the law on preservation forbids any external alterations, any deviations from the historical design are to be found in the interiors, where walls are often knocked down to enlarge once small rooms and create more spacious bedrooms.

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Looking towards Skala and Etia.

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Patmos

DISCOVER

These interventions aside, the traditional look of these houses has been preserved, which is a miracle in a country with a history of unregulated building.

The designation of the Monastery of St John the Theologian as the UNESCO World Heritage Monument in 1999 safeguarded the unspoiled character of the town, put a stop to ambitions developers, and closed the door on those looking to import less reverent lifestyles.

The time is 07:00 and I’m searching my cellphone for the app showing the location of the boat I’m going to meet.

The Blue Star is currently off Leros. I estimate that this gives me enough time to get to the port on foot. The old path intersects the modern road at several points, but for the most part maintains its authenticity. The enchanting view causes me to stumble among the stones, so I decide to focus instead on where I’m walking. A little later, I lift my gaze again, startled by loud birdsong. In the branches of an almond tree, I spot two bird nests, with two adults busy feeding their chicks.

The Cave of the Revelation, where according to the scriptures, St John the Theologian heard the voice of God.

The visitor I’m going to meet is John, an English financier who’s interested in buying a property on the island.

He has friends who have done so already, and more importantly, is a Byzantine history buff. The choice of Patmos, he explains to me later, was a no-brainer.

As we wait for his rental car, he reminds me of the unchanging laws of real estate.

The best locations have been selected for the gods, as places of worship. Second come soldiers, for obvious strategic reasons of command and control. Third come the artists, who have an eye for pleasing places. Fourth – and he points to himself – the wealthy.

I ask him what he plans to do once he’s installed himself in his quarters.

“First of all, I’d like you to take me to the monastery and the Cave of the Revelation.” It is his turn for questions, and he asks me how long I have been coming to Patmos. “This year,” I say, “it will be 40 years. I first came at the invitation of 1 3 2 — GREECE IS

a classmate in Tour Guide school, and I’ve been coming back on and off ever since. More recently, I’ve been involved in Patmos 360, a rental platform for mansions in Hora, as well as with Greece Sotheby’s International Realty, as you well know.” Our conversation drifts to lighter subjects as we climb towards our destination. We touch on the strife in the British royal family. “I hear Prince Charles has been here?” he says, making it a question. “I’ve a funny story to tell you about that,” I say. “In the mid1990s, my pregnant French wife and I, along with a group of friends, rented the house you’ll be staying in. On the day SUMMER 2022

we arrived, I asked Prince Michael of Greece, a regular visitor to the island, which remote beach he’d recommend for swimming. He suggested Livadi tou Geranou. When we arrived there, we discovered we were not alone. A tall, athletic-looking man stood on the beach, while another man reclined on a towel under a beach umbrella reading a book. “Le Prince Charles!” exclaimed my 16-year-old French godson. I responded that the heir to the British throne was neither tall nor blond, and nor was he so athletic. “Not the standing man, the one lying down,” he corrected me with great certainty.

© PERIKLES MERAKOS, AFP/VISUALHELLAS.GR

A royal sighting

Dodecanese The Monastery of St John the Theologian was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999.

SOUTH AEGEAN

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The boatyard of Patmos is one of the few remaining in Greece that builds and repairs wooden boats.

Because they were some distance from us – we had discreetly picked a spot further away so as not to crowd them – I wasn’t immediately able to verify this information. When I did eventually pluck up the courage to walk over and greet the man, I realised that it was, indeed, him. He was reading a book by the Byzantinologist Sir Steven Runciman, “The Rise and Fall of the Byzantine Empire,” and was kind enough to exchange a few words with me, mainly regarding his cousin Constantine.

IN THE CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN, THE LIGHT IS STRONGER AND THE ART IS MORE ROBUST. THE FRESCOES ARE

BY Z ANTINE, AND DATE TO THE 12TH CENTURY. 1 3 4 — GREECE IS

The Monastery and the Cave of the Revelation

We reach the Town Hall Square, where we park. My guest is drawn to the statue of Emmanuel Xanthos. “Last year, we celebrated the 200th anniversary of the Greek Revolution. This gentleman, who was born here, was one of its prime instigators as a member of the Filiki Eteria – a secret society founded with the aim of overthrowing Ottoman rule,” I inform him. He stops, and then walks a little further off. “Amazing view.

What islands are those?” “To the west is Ikaria, to the north, in the distance, is Samos. To the east is the Arkii cluster, and Lipsi.”

Our good fortune continues as Father Theodosios joins us in the monastery courtyard. He was a monk on Mt Athos, but was transferred here to reinforce his few remaining colleagues on the island. Although he’s now of a certain age, he has boundless energy and a clear gaze, full of kindness.

We start our tour in the church vestibule. As if reading John’s mind as he looks at the columns, our host explains that they originally belonged to the Temple of Artemis, which once occupied the site where the monastery was built. We’re stunned by a scene of SUMMER 2022

extreme violence, with young soldiers slaughtering infants with their daggers while mothers fight to save them – a fresco depicting the biblical massacre of the innocents by King Herod.

The remaining frescoes depict milder subject matter, such as the Parable of the Ten Virgins. I ask Father Theodosios to show us the “Incredulity of St Thomas.” Politely, he takes my phone and turns on the flashlight function, illuminating a niche under an arch where that artwork hides. Next to it is the “Noli mi tangere” scene from the Bible, in which Mary Magdalene recognised Christ after the resurrection.“Do not touch me,” I translate.

In the Chapel of the Virgin, the light is stronger and the art is more robust. The frescoes are Byzantine, and date to the 12th century. Our guide pulls aside a curtain to reveal an icon of the Mother and Child. My guest remains rooted to the spot, ecstatic.

Eventually, our tour moves to the Museum, with its priceless collection of manuscripts, ecclesiastical robes and objects, Byzantine icons – one of which is attributed to El Greco – and antiquities. At the end, John asks about the “Clarke Plato.” Father Theodosios tells the story of the English traveler Clarke, who, according to one version of the tale, bribed the abbot of the monastery and acquired from him the oldest surviving manuscript of Plato’s Dialogues.

Today, it graces the collection of the Bodleian Library in Oxford.

Our next stop is the Cave of the Revelation. According to tradition and the written testimony of St John himself, this is where he heard the voice of God and dictated to his student Prochoros the Holy Book of Revelation. Our host at this world landmark of Christendom is Father Isidoros. For years, he’s been the guardian of the Cave, protecting it from disrespect. John’s attention is drawn to an icon on the altarpiece of the 15th-century church depicting the vision of the Revelation. “Please inform our friend that God spoke to St John in

© PERIKLES MERAKOS, GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE, SIME/VISUALHELLAS.GR

Patmos

DISCOVER

info WHERE TO EAT The arrival of Benetou (Tel. (+30) 22470.330.89) in Sapsila raised local gastronomic standards, and it added a sister establishment in Hora last year. The fish taverna Lambis (Tel. (+30) 22470.314.90) on the beach of the same name, Flisvos (Tel. (+30) 22470.313.80) and Ktima Petra (Tel. (+30) 22470.332.07) in Grikos Bay, Pleiades (Tel. (+30) 22470.330.34) in Sapsila, Tarsanas Marine Club (Tel. (+30) 22470.321.59) in Diakofti, Trehantiri (Tel. (+30) 22470.340.80), Hiliomodi (Tel. (+30) 22470.341.79), To Tsipouradio Mas (Tel. (+30) 22470.328.03), and Netia (Tel. (+30) 22470.313.29) in Skala, and Vaggelis (Tel. (+30) 22470.319.67) in Hora are all noteworthy eateries.

A special element of the houses are the gray or ochre stones around doors and windows, called mantomata. Μany traditional houses have been preserved nearly intact.

the Greek language, and that St John also wrote it down in Greek,” were the parting words of our monk guide. “I believe there’s also an interesting convent, do you think we should visit?” my indefatigable companion asks. “I think visiting hours are between 9 and 11 in the morning,” I say, “so it’ll be closed now, but let me call the Abbess Christonymfi and introduce you. She’s a determined individual who’s responsible for reviving female monasticism on

the island. Thanks to her, the Convent of the Evangelismos (“Annunciation”) is one of the most dynamic and welllooked-after in Greece.”

Having fed our spirits, we returned to material realities. “Do you like chickpeas?” I ask my guest. “Very much,” he responds. “Great! We’ll dine at a seaside taverna in the Bay of Grikos, where this particular dish will have you licking your fingers.”

“That sounds good.” • SOUTH AEGEAN

COFFEE & DRINKS On the central square in Skala, people meet up at Petrino (Tel. (+30) 22470.314.22), Houston (Tel. (+30) 22470.316.88), and the historic Arion (Tel. (+30) 22470.315.95). In Hora, the first choice for morning coffee or afternoon tea is Loza (Tel. (+30) 22470.324.05), while in Kampos the perennial choice is Atmos (Tel. (+30) 22470.318.81). In the evenings, a young crowd can be found at Kasbah (instagram. com/kasbahpatmos).

BEACHES In addition to Psili Ammos Beach, which is largely protected from wind and waves, Patmos offers many choices for swimming, from family beaches with full facilities at Kampos and Agriolivado to less developed options such as Didimi, Livadi, Geranos and Petra.

GREECE IS — 1 3 5

Dodecanese

The wind’s on our side!

GUIDE TO THE COASTS AND ISLANDS OF GREECE, TAKE US ON A SIX-DAY CRUISE IN A WINDY OLD SEA-TOSSED CORNER OF THE AEGEAN, THAT FEELS LIKE STEPPING BACK IN TIME. ΒΥ LUCINDA AND ROD HEIKELL

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© GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

THE AUTHORS OF GREEK WATERS PILOT, THE DEFINITIVE SAILING

Dodecanese

DISCOVER

T

Day O ne Kos to Kalymnos (15 miles)

THERE IS A CORNER , the southeast corner of the Aegean, that

isn’t crossed by the more popular routes traversing this sea. Between the eastern end of Crete and the southwestern end of Rhodes, there are a number of islands whose names are not part of the usual litany of destinations you hear from those who sail in this area. These islands are Halki, Tilos, Karpathos and Kasos, and they form an enchanting island bridge between Rhodes and Crete.

I first cruised around here in 1980, heading northeast from Crete towards Rhodes while researching the first edition of Greek Waters Pilot, a cruising guide to the Ionian and Aegean coasts and islands. It was spring, and I’d left early in the morning from a wild rockbound anchorage tucked under Cape Sidero on the northeast tip of Crete.

The passage to the large bay of Helatronas on the bottom of Kasos was relatively easy, with light winds from the north which meant I was hard on the wind but comfortable enough. I was happy the wind gods had been lenient as I dropped anchor on a lovely sand bottom in the bay.

Sitting in the cockpit with a cup of tea, I glanced up at the cliffs surrounding the bay and then had to take a second look. There were people all around the cliff-top. I got out the binoculars for a better look and found they were, in fact, scarecrow-type figures. Why? And why so many? The more I looked, the more unnerved I became.

It took a while for me to remember some local history I’d read.

Kasos had been ravaged by the Egyptians in 1824, and most of the inhabitants had been killed or taken prisoner. The island was pillaged and the town destroyed. Kasos had declared independence early on in the Greek War of Independence, which started in 1821, and the Egyptians, who were aiding the Turks, decided to teach the island a lesson. From a population of 11,000, only a hundred or so survived.

Perhaps the scarecrow figures on the cliff-top were there to give the impression that, this time, the Kasiots were ready and waiting for any invaders. I slept fitfully that night.

I spent a couple of weeks cruising around Kasos and Karpathos with nary another yacht in sight. In subsequent years, I’ve visited the islands again and it’s unusual to see more than another yacht or two around. At either end of the island bridge, around Rhodes and the eastern end of Crete, there are a few more yachts, but not many, with the exception of the main port of Rhodes. That might be because this is a windy old sea-tossed corner of the Aegean but, with some passage planning and attention to the weather, sailing this area is eminently manageable; what’s more, it’s like stepping back in time to 20 years ago.

Another part of the Dodecanese, further north, presents a slightly different experience; it is our account of this section that follows.

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Once clear of the marina at Kos, you’ll need to plot a course to clear the shoal waters extending off the shore at Ammoglossa on the northern tip of Kos before shaping a course around Pserimos. The main harbor of Kalymnos is on the south coast of the island, and the many houses climbing up the hill make identifying the town easy.

Kalymnos is known as the center for sponge diving in the Mediterranean, and as a rock-climbing paradise.

Day Two Kalymnos to Leros (20 miles)

It’s likely to be a bit of a windward bash if the meltemi is blowing. An early start should allow you to make some easy miles before the wind really kicks up. The east coast of Kalymnos is wild and mountainous, and depths drop off quickly, with no dangers to navigation.

Head through Steno Leros, keeping to the main channel, before heading up into Lakki Bay. Lakki Marina lies on the western edge of the town, while Marina Leros sits in the NE corner of the bay.

The town of Lakki could be the Art Deco capital of Greece: the buildings around the bay all date from the Italian occupation, when it was an important naval base. The buildings are arranged along wide boulevards, and include a superb market and shopping arcade with covered walkways and a circular atrium; a cinema with a fine curved façade; the old Leros Palace Hotel; and large Art Deco villas scattered among newer concrete buildings.

There are numerous tavernas along the waterfront and in town. The restaurant Lyxnari has an imaginative Greek menu but you’ll have to book in advance. The same holds true for Taverna Petrino near the post office in town, but it’s worth it – the owner is a butcher, and when it comes to meat, he knows his stuff.

SI X DAYS AT SE A

A trip around the Dodecanese is ideal for those who’ d like to discover beautiful landscapes, tiny islets and sites whose historical importance spans the centuries.

© OLGA CHARAMI, SHUTTERSTOCK

Below: The port of Pothia on Kalymnos.

Right: Paleonisos Bay on Kalymnos.

Bottom: Charting the way.

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Dodecanese

DISCOVER

Day T hree Leros to Patmos (19 miles)

This run is another windward leg on your journey but, again, an early start will get some easy miles in. You’ll need to keep an eye out for islets and reefs in the approaches to Patmos. Once into the harbor at Skala, head up past the cruise ship and ferry quays to the NW corner. Patmos is second only to Mt Athos as the spiritual center of Greek Orthodoxy. The well-fortified Monastery of St John sits on the hill behind Skala on the road to Patmos Town and is open to visitors. Below it is the Cave of the Revelation where, according to legend, St John transmitted the fiery words of God, found today in the book of Revelations, to his disciple and scribe Prochoros.

Day Four Patmos to Agathonisi (21 miles)

This route takes you through the islets around the Arki Islands and, depending on the strength of the meltemi, you can explore them, but 1 4 0 — GREECE IS

AG ATHONISI IS A TRUE GEM, SIT TING OUT ON ITS OWN OFF THE TURKISH COAST, E XILED BY WINDSWEPT SE AS AND THE FACT IT’S NOT RE ALLY ON THE WAY TO ANY WHERE .

SUMMER 2022

care is needed as few charts show all the dangers and eyeball navigation is a must. A favorite stop of ours is the bay on the east side of Marathos – pick up a buoy and head in for an early lunch at one of the tavernas here. Agathonisi is a true gem, sitting out on its own off the Turkish coast, exiled by windswept seas and the fact it’s not really on the way to anywhere. The locals (there are about 150 of them) rely on farming and fishing, and by making a little cash from the mostly yacht-borne tourists who come out this far. Aghios Georgios is the main harbor, and there’s good shelter there from the meltemi, albeit with gusts blowing down the valley.

The best thing to do is to anchor with a long line to the posts set into the rocky shelf at the head of the bay. This bay and the small hamlet on its shore are special places, geographically and spiritually removed from the larger islands. There is nothing you need to do here – maybe a swim, maybe a walk up to Megalo Horio, the main village of the island, which lies inland, tucked into a fold in the hills over the ridge behind the harbor.

© GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE, PERIKLES MERAKOS, OLGA CHARAMI

Above: Lucinda and Rod Heikell.

Below: The colorful houses of Platanos on Leros.

Above: Heading under sail to Agathonisi.

Left: Grikos, a small fishing village on Patmos.

SOUTH AEGEAN

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Theme

DISCOVER

Day Five Agathonisi to Lipsi (21 miles)

The islets and reefs of Vrak Kouloura on the SE tip of Lipsi shouldn’t be approached as they aren’t marked and it’s difficult to identify them with any sea running. On the other hand, the waters around the islets and reefs of Vrak Khalavra, just outside Lipsi Bay, are enchanting – more reminiscent of the Bahamas than the Aegean. In calm weather, it’s well worth stopping here for a swim before you head into Lipsi Bay, where there are yacht berths on the pier. The ouzeries around the harbor are the perfect place to start your evening, before you wander up the hill, towards the church, to where there are a number of good tavernas.

Day Si x Lipsi to Kos (33 miles)

Under normal circumstances, this should be a fine downwind sail. Once

out of Lipsi Bay, head southeast and sail down the east coast of Leros and Kalymnos. On the final leg home, you’ll need to remember the shallows off the north tip of Kos. From the marina, it’s a long hot walk along the hotel-lined waterfront into the old town which radiates out from the old harbor. The castle was built in 1431 by the Knights of St John, who held sway here (and in Rhodes) until they were ousted by Suleiman in 1522 and the island came under Ottoman rule.

While Kos has something of a reputation for tourism of the rowdy kind, the old town retains much to recommend it.

The colonnaded buildings date from the Italian occupation and are in a sort of monumental style with Art Deco additions. Sprinkled throughout the town are remnants of previous inhabitants: a couple of minarets, a hammam, a synagogue, the ancient ruins of the Asklepion and, believe it or not, the plane tree under which, it’s said, Hippocrates sat and taught his students. •

OLGA CHARAMI, ALAMY/VISUALHELLAS.GR

Below: About to dock at Lipsi. Right: Land and sea at harmony in Lipsi.

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Note to sailors W E AT H E R Relatively short distances between sheltered harbors make this area popular for those with previous sailing experience who are confident enough to cope with the meltemi, the prevailing summer wind in the Aegean, which blows from the NW in the north of this area, shifting to blow more from the W between Kos and Rhodes. It starts fitfully in June, blows forcefully from July through September, then fitfully again in October. It regularly blows at Force 4-6 and may on occasion reach Force 7. It does not blow every day, but may blow without a break for a week or more. Gusts off the lee side of the islands can be considerably stronger than the wind strength in the open sea.

In spring and autumn, south-easterly winds are common.

M A I N C H A RT E R BAS E S The main charter bases are on Kos and Rhodes. There is also a base on Samos – not one of the Dodecanese Islands, but only a short distance north of Agathonisi. There are daily international flights to Kos and Rhodes through the summer. Year-round flights from Athens also serve Leros.

Ferries from Piraeus and Lavrion run throughout the year to most of the islands in the group. Local ferries run from Kos, Rhodes and Simi to harbors in Turkey.

ABOUT THE WRITERS

Rod and Lucinda Heikell are the co-authors of Greek Waters Pilot, the definitive sailing guide to the coasts and islands of Greece, covering the entire area from the Ionian Islands to the Aegean, Rhodes and Crete and includes details of over 450 harbours in a single volume. Painstakingly compiled from the authors’ own survey work and the latest first-hand information, Greek Waters Pilot is recognized in the sailing world as an impressive achievement - the indispensable guide for anyone sailing around Greece.

Scan the QR code to read our interview with Rod and Lucinda.

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