GREECE IS | ATHENS | SUMMER 2016 by GREECE IS

greece is experience culture, gastronomy & more

ATH EN S

SUMMER 2016

ISSN: 2459-041X

F I R S T e d iti o n

12- 51

54-84

88-149

W E L C O ME

DIS COVE R

EX PL ORE

152-175 TASTE

Summer delights, cool spots, new arrivals and cultural events that will spice up your stay in Athens.

Chalking up memorable experiences and appreciating history is really what visiting this city is all about.

From the neighborhoods around the Acropolis to the amazing seafront of the greater metropolitan area.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about fresh seafood and creative cocktails with Greek flair in this summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s issue.

WE LCOME

Turning Things Around BY GIORGOS TSIROS e d i t o r - I N - C H IE F , G REE C E I S

“Miracle in Athens as Greek tourism numbers keep growing.” So read a headline in the British Observer newspaper at the end of May, referring to the significant jump in the arrivals of foreign visitors to Athens International Airport in the first four months of the year. Indeed, the indications suggest that, by the end of the year, Athens may have received more than 4.5 million visitors, setting a new record. Tourism, of course, is a highly volatile market, affected by many different and unpredictable factors – from stability in the country itself and the broader region in general, to what’s in the news. Despite its share of bad publicity in recent years, Athens has shown admirable resilience. And this summer, the city has quite a few solid reasons to be optimistic. First of all, the biggest, most important and rightly over-publicized development project of the post-2004 Olympics era, dubbed “The New Acropolis” back in 2012 by the Architect’s Newspaper, is about to be completed and delivered to the public. Designed by renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano, the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center is set to become the new home to both the National Library and the Greek National Opera, and also to transform the urban landscape of the Faliro Delta, in

the southern part of the city, with a much-needed 21-hectare park. And there’s even more encouraging news on the southern front: after being stuck for years in a typical Greek mess, the redevelopment Athens’ former airport at Hellenikon, an area almost twice the size of London’s Hyde Park, has been reignited, with contracts signed, sealed and delivered. God willing and weather permitting, as we Greeks often say, this project of huge potential for the struggling Greek economy will deliver upon completion a 200-hectare metropolitan park, as well as a one-kilometer-long beach that will be open to all. If you include a series of new hotel investments and the government’s decision to move forward with the construction of a fourth metro line, we Athenians have a lot to look forward to. As for you, our visitors, well, you have a lot to see and do, to enjoy and be inspired by. Whether it’s your first time in Athens or not, you will likely experience the thrill of exploration, the urge to discover everything this city has to offer. From the wonderful treasures of antiquity to new and hip hangouts, you will feel that delightful curiosity, the rush of love at first sight. And if you don’t, well, you can always head for the coast, where all kinds of summer surprises await.

Believe it or not, THIS is just 30 mins away from the city center.

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CONTENTS Greece Is - Athens, Summer 2016, First Edition WELCOME 14. Summer in the City: Urban parks

DISCOVER 54. The Acropolis Museum:

and gardens to escape the heat; nights

Now entering its eighth year of operation,

under the stars; the best ice-cream

with more than 9.3 million visitors –

parlors in town; coffee on the rocks;

and counting.

148.

Cinema Paradiso, Athens-style; T-shirts

62. Must-see Sites in Short:

fun by Athens’ largest swimming pool and

and sandals for that relaxed look.

A mini-guide of ancient Athens.

30. New Arrivals: Hip hangouts

68. Museum of Cycladic Art:

in Athens and beyond that broaden our options.

36. Museum Oasis: The National Archaeological Museum presents its new atrium garden.

131. In a Nutshell: Our comprehensive guide to the neighborhoods around the Acropolis: Plaka, Thiseio, Monastiraki and Koukaki. Hilton Escape: A full day of

its most impressive rooftop venue.

modern art.

TASTE 152. The Fish Market: The price

76. Athens & Epidaurus Festival:

is right at the Keratsini exchange,

Millennia-old works that inspired

Bringing us legends of theater, dance and

the biggest fish market in Greece.

music for more than 60 years.

160. The Sea on a Plate: Tried and

38. Cultural Agenda: From the Dodona

true restaurants for seafood of all

exhibition at the Acropolis Museum

EXPERIENCE 88. The Athens Riviera: Island life, just

kinds, from new Greek-style sushi to

to Ai Weiwei’s much talked-about installations at the Museum of Cycladic Art.

a stone’s throw from the city center.

98. Along the Coast: Where to swim, eat, drink and enjoy the summer vibe.

120. Cosmopolitan Legend: The history of Astir Palace, Athens’ most iconic seaside resort.

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classic grilled fish.

168. Cocktails with Roots: Creative mixologists shake up the bar scene with local ingredients.

98 168

131 greece is - athens summer 2016, first edition

Published by: Exerevnitis - Explorer SA, Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos St, Athens, 18547, Greece ISSN: 2459-041X Editor-in-chief: Giorgos Tsiros (editor@greece-is.com) Commercial director: Natasha Bouterakou (sales@greece-is.com) Creative director: Thodoris Lalangas / www.youandi.gr Creative consultant: Costas Coutayar Deputy editor: Natasha Blatsiou Art director: Ria Staveri Pagination: Natasha Kaika Editorial consultants: Dimitris Tsoumplekas, Vassilis Minakakis Translations/Editing: George Kolyvas, Alexia Liakounakou, Damian Mac Con Uladh, Stephen Stafford, Danae Seemann, Christine Sturmey, Graham Wood Proof-reading: Don Domonkos, Christine Sturmey Photo editors: Maria Konstantopoulou, Marika Tsouderou Photoshop: Michalis Tzannetakis, Stelios Vazourakis, Christos Maritsas Advertising: Sophia Tsepa (stsepa@kathimerini.gr) Advertising department: Tel. (+30) 210.480.80.00 Head of public relations: Lefki Vardikou Online marketing: Thanasis Sofianos / www.relevance.gr GREECE IS - ATHENS is a biannual publication, distributed free of charge. Contact us: welcome@greece-is.com It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.

ON THE C OVER ÂŠ DRAWING BY DELIGIANNIS-VIRVOS FANIS, 8 YEARS OLD, FROM THE COLLECTION of the Museum of Greek Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Art.

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96 Degrees in the Shade? F o l l o w t h e s e p at h s t o t h e c i t y ’ s c o o l g r e e n s p o t s

Looking out over Athens from Philopappos Hill.

The latest statistics from the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development don’t really come as a shock: when all the green spaces of the city are added up and then divided per capita, every Athenian gets just 0.96m2 of grass, whereas the World Health Organization suggests that every city should have a minimum of 9m2 of parkland per resident. The “cool” spots of Athens are few; that’s what makes them special. Each one of those listed here deserve a visit, whether it’s for their history, or the rare natural life they host, or the view over the Attica basin they offer, or the illusion they create that time is standing still. - M a r i a Ko r ac h a i

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F AV O R I T E S P O T S A stroll through the 15.8 hectare National Garden, the city’s oldest and most magnificent public park, allows its visitors a chance to view hundreds of different types of plants and animals from dawn till sunset. In this urban piece of heaven with its blossoming pergolas, its tiny zoo, its little lakes and dusty pathways, young and old alike gather to feed the ducks, or just sit back and enjoy the shade on one of the many benches. The landmark building just south of the garden is the Zappeio Megaron, which lends its name to the area surrounding it. Next door, at Aegli Zappeiou, you can enjoy a drink or a meal, or catch a movie at the open-air cinema. Behind the Panathenaic Stadium (Kallimarmaro), entering from Vasileos Konstantinou Avenue, you can slip into

Every Athenian gets just 0.96m2 of grass, whereas the World Health Organization suggests that every city should have a minimum of 9m2 of parkland per resident.

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Zolotas Stores 10 Panepistimiou Avenue, Athens 10671 Tel. (+30) 210.360.1272 Email: info@zolotas.gr Online Store: www.zolotas.gr

3 rue de Miromesnil / Fbg St-Honoré, 75008, Paris France Tel. (+330) 171.183.268 Email: info@zolotas.fr Online Store: www.zolotas.fr

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The National Garden

the leafy park of Ardittos Hill. This casual meeting spot for runners from the surrounding neighborhoods offers a wonderful view of the Acropolis, Lycabettus and the columns of the temple of Olympian Zeus. The highest hill of Athens is Lycabettus (270 meters). Pines, cypresses, almond trees and shrubs greet you on the long and winding steps that bring you to the top where the church of Saint George is located. On the way up, you’ll probably meet dog walkers, while others with and without dogs take the back road and drive up at sunset for a clear view over the city, with chilled beers from the canteen at hand. There’s also a cable car that runs to the top. 14

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Around Philopappos Hill, southwest of the Acropolis, you can walk to the Pnyx, where the ancient Athenians once assembled, or gaze at the stars at the National Observatory, or even take part in some fitness activities. The beautiful cobblestone pathways (designed by architect Dimitris Pikionis) lead you up the hill to the best spots from which to view the Acropolis, and the wooden tables under the pine trees are ideal for a picnic. The hill also hosts the Dora Stratou Dance Theater, operating for more than half a century with a resident company performing traditional Greek dances on most nights. It is worth making a stop at the beautiful Byzantine church of Saint Dimitrios Loumbardiaris and at Socrates’

1. The National Garden, the city’s oldest public park, has all sorts of interesting features. 2. Lycabettus is the highest hill in Athens and a favorite with dog walkers, joggers and city folk just looking for a place to chill out.

Prison before reaching the peak of the hill, where you can admire the monument that gives the whole park its name. Built in the early 2nd c. AD, it was erected to commemorate Gaius Julius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos, a prince of the Kingdom of Commagene living in Athens, who was a great benefactor of the city.

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Reaching for the Stars F e e l t h e c i t y ’ s p u l s e a n d g e t a f r o n t- r o w v i e w o f i t s t e m p l e s at a r o o f t o p b a r .

Athens is not a city of skyscrapers. Looking upon it from a rooftop, you can see how it evolved over the centuries: most of the buildings around the Acropolis have red-tiled roofs, a statement of their pedigree as the oldest homes in the city. From this up high, you can also feel the pulse of the city, enjoying the sense of privilege that a lofty vantage point affords. It’s a chance to observe the movement of traffic and people, and the contrast between the capital’s majestic temples and its modern architecture. Here are a few classic rooftop bars, restaurants and venues, some of which are atop revamped former industrial spaces that introduce a note of modernity to a city renowned for its antiquities. - M a r i a Ko r ac h a i

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RECOMMENDED A for Athens: Treat yourself to special cocktails with Monastiraki Square, the Acropolis and Plaka forming the backdrop. 2–4 Miaouli, Monastiraki • Τel (+30) 210.324.4244 Bar 8: Relaxing on the rooftop of one of the city’s most historic hotels, you can enjoy original Martini recipes and exotic cocktails, while enjoying a view of Lycabettus Hill. Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Square • Tel (+30) 210.333.0000 Bios: Come here for the urban romance with a young, hip crowd, comfortable chaises longues, crushed-ice cocktails and the Acropolis in the near distance 84 Pireos • Τel (+30) 210.342.5335 Gazarte: Overlooking the former gasworks of the Technopolis cultural venue and with a view of the Acropolis, this is a lovely roof garden with olive and lemon trees that also hosts live music nights. 34 Voutadon, Gazi • Τel (+30) 210.346.0347 La Suite Lounge: Why not try a menu of modern Greek cuisine created by three-time Michelin-starred chef Jerome Serres, with the entire city spread out below? St George Lycabettus Boutique Hotel, 2 Kleomenous, Kolonaki • Τel (+30) 210.741.6000

Bar 8, Hotel Grande Bretagne.

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The Inside Scoop O u r s h o r t l i s t o f A M A Z I N G i c e c r e am P A RL O RS

BY Alexia Amvr azi

LE GRECHE For two years, this gourmet gelato shop and cafe has been tantalizing Athenians with the quality and flavor of its products. Owner Evi Papadopoulou’s four-year classical pâtissier training in Italy taught her everything about ice-cream production and connected her with some excellent ingredient suppliers for her Greco-Italian themed ice creams. La Greche uses primarily Greek products like anthotyro (soft mild cheese), seasonal fruit like – bergamot, figs etc – but it also sources Italian goodies like hazelnuts, adorable mini-cones from Naples, spumante (sparkling wine) and mascarpone. The 30-odd flavors change with the seasons and even with the hours of the day; in the evening, customers can add champagne, rum or other alcoholic beverages to their sorbets for a fun cocktail experience. Must tries: pistachio; mascarpone with caramelized figs and Moschato Limnou (a sweet Greek wine); and ricotta with sweet bergamot and Aperol.

Info 16 Mitropoleos, Syntagma • Tel. (+30) 216.700.6458

MATTONELLA

Info 82 Ermou, Monastiraki • Tel. (+30) 697.167.7064

In the center of the city, just across from the Monastiraki metro station, Mattonella offers the kind of ‘time itself is frozen for a few heavenly moments of ice cream bliss’ satisfaction that has created a devout following among locals and returning tourists alike. Since 2008, it has served authentic Italian flavors such as Nocciola, Gianduia, Torrone, Tiramisu and Malaga, alongside 30 other delicious choices. Their ice cream is produced on-site and made with fresh eggs and milk sourced from a small Greek farm, authentic ingredients from Italy and the freshest of local seasonal fruit. Must tries: dark chocolate sorbet; chocolate mint (ideal for hot summer days); and Zuppa Inglese, made with lady-fingers, soaked in Alchermes liqueur.

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Xara Patisserie

Assimakopoulos Bros

Serving ice-cream with a hefty helping of Turkish-inspired nostalgia, Xara (pronounced Hara) Patisserie is named for its original owner, said to have arrived from Constantinople carrying the recipes for kaimaki (made with clotted cream) and ekmek (the Turkish word for ‘bread’) in her shoe. The establishment, now run by her grandchildren, has flavors that include Pasha (baklava ice cream with kaimaki) and Hanoumissa (vanilla with pieces of kadaifi pastry), along with ‘60s retro classics such as the Chicago (chocolate ice cream with ground almonds, whipped cream, a small cookie and chocolate syrup) and the Macaibo (milk chocolate with cherries). Must tries: the Chicago and the buffalo-milk kaimaki with ekmek.

The brothers Dimitris and Thanassis Assimakopoulos began delivering quality cream, rice pudding and galaktoboureko (custard cream pie) to Athenian households in 1915. In the 1950s, they opened their own patisserie, making all their sweets using their own butter and highquality milk. In addition to their famous kourambiedes (Christmas cookies) and their tsoureki (Easter bread), they are renowned for their richly texturized, flavorsome ice creams. Must tries: creamy chocolate parfait; fresh kaimaki; and the chocolate ice cream with chocolate chips.

Info 339 Patission, Ano Patissia

• Tel. (+30) 210.228.7266

Info 82 Harilaou Trikoupi, Exarchia • Tel: (+30) 210.361.0092

Anyone worth their scoop can tell the difference between a real gelato, made with fresh milk and eggs, seasonal fruit and top quality ingredients, and the sloppy formula of powdered milk, corn syrup, GM fruit and factory farmed eggs.

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Coffee on the Rocks Some consider it sacrilege to enjoy good qualit y coffee cold. Oh well...

Unlike the stereotypical colonial Englishmen of bygone days, the Greeks have never found hot tea a refreshing drink in the scorching summer heat, and so they welcomed the invention of cold “frappe” in 1957. Made with instant coffee and cold water mixed in a shaker and served with copious quantities of ice, this innovative, albeit gastronomically unimpressive, concoction quickly replaced traditional Greek coffee during the calendar’s hottest months. Over the past few years, however, as Athenians have started embracing gourmet coffee, a new type of cold coffee known as “freddo” has taken hold. Made with proper espresso that is then 22

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cooled in ice, freddo is served, just like a frappe, in a tall glass with a straw. If you walk through the center of Athens during the summer, you will see a host of locals slowly sipping their “freddos” under the shade of trees or beneath those new contraptions that create a mist over their customers’ heads, supposedly cooling the immediate area. But this isn’t the only way to combine cold with quality. For those who believe that adding ice cubes to an espresso is sacrilege, there are a number of shops that serve cold-brewed coffee – ground beans left in cold water for many hours – made from premium beans.

RECOMMENDED The Acropolis Museum Cafe: Top-quality Greek snacks, absolutely amazing location. 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou

- Va s s i l i s M a s s e l o s

- nena dimitriou

A Different Beast: Top-notch new arrival in the northern suburb of Kifissia. 19 Kassaveti Kaya: Value-for-money takeaway joint. 7 Voulis, Bolani Arcade Odori: Nice spot to feel the city vibe 2 Skouleniou (off Evripidou) Two Sips and Two Bites: No frills, excellent quality and breakfast available as well. 8 Dragatsaniou (off Evripidou) Underdog: Award-winning baristas, good location 8 Heraklidon, Thiseio Zonar’s: Timeless luxury in a true Athenian institution. 9 Voukourestiou & Panepistimiou

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Cinema Paradiso

A N D T H E O S C A R G O E S T O . . . T H E C I T Y ’ S o p en - air C I N E M A S

Tiny oases tucked in among towering buildings, the summer cinemas of Athens do not aim to captivate their audiences with their films alone. Resisting the trend of multiplexes and ear-splitting sound, these open-air movie theaters have retained their retro atmosphere. They are places where you can sip a cold beer and munch on a hot dog in a courtyard or terrace smelling of jasmine while gazing into the cat-like eyes of Audrey Hepburn or perhaps over her shoulder at the actual Acropolis, lit up at night… both equally charming. Non smokers beware, though: summer cinemas still offer cigarette-loving Greeks the option to light one up. Whether you’re a movie fan or not, a visit to an open-air cinema is worthwhile: they have greenery, usually a view, a long history and die-hard fans from all over the world. - M a r i a Ko r ac h a i

RECOMMENDED Cine Thision: One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens, it opened in 1935. It has an amazing view of the Acropolis and the owner makes her own sour-cherry juice. 7 Apostolou Pavlou, Thiseio Cine Paris: Just a stone’s throw from the Acropolis, it was established in the 20s by a hairdresser who named it in honor of the the city where he’d worked for much of his life. 11 Kydathineon, Plaka Cine Aigli: Good acoustics, comfortable chairs and great snacks, right in the middle of a lovely park. Zappeio Riviera: For a slice of real life in the alternative side of Athens, in a garden between downtown buildings. 46 Valtetsiou, Exarchia Dexameni: This was the site of Hadrian’s Aqueduct, which supplied the city up until Turkish rule. Now it is home to a cool cinema with a mean canteen. Dexameni Square, Kolonaki

Look for the banners advertising the 6th Athens Open Air Film Festival, running through September at archaeological sites, parks, public squares and other spots around the city.

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PICK-A-TEE T-shirts are integral to the “new wave” of souvenirs from Greece. We’ve hung some of our favorites out to dry. Photogr apher: Helena Par aske va@darkboxstudio Fashion editor: Dimitris Nire as Schwartz@darkboxstudio Production: Dark Box Studio

Goddess Aphrodite print in dark olive green (www. ergonmykonos.com)

Medusa the Clubber print in sky blue (Greek Imp, www.thegreekimp.com)

Gold Leaf print in white (Clash-ified2, www.wecreateharmony.com)

The Evil-Eye Protection, stripes in navy blue (www.lovegreece.com.gr)

A Revolutionary T-shirt: Theodore Kolokotronis print in black (WeDesign - www. wecreateharmony.com)

The Tsarouchi print in white (T-Greeks - www. wecreateharmony.com)

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happy feet A selection of Greek designer sandals for your stylish summer strolls. P H O T O S H e l e n a P a r a s k e v a @ d a r k b o x st u d i o F a sh i o n e d i to r D i m i t r i s N i r e a s S c h w a r t z @ d a r k b o x st u d i o Mo d e l S u k i @ v i v i a n c m o d e l s

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1. Ikaria mid-lace in gold, Ancient Greek Sandals (www.ancient-greek-sandals.com) 2. Black lava and olive green, Kartia - Di Gaia (www.digaia.com) 3. Black with cobalt blue, Glamazons (www.wecreateharmony.com) 4. Trinity natural, Valia Gabriel (www.wecreateharmony.com) 5. Cleopatra natural with gold, Olgianna Melissinos (www.melissinos-sandals.gr) 6. Hermes in black, Zeus + Dione (www.zeusndione.com)

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New hangouts Word-of-mouth advertising works like a charm in Athens. Every few months, new bar and restaurant discoveries attract those “in the know.” BY Maria Kor achai

AIolou 68 A “Little Mykonos” lies hidden in the historic center of Athens, serving exceptional fish dishes in a radiant and warmly designed space. Backed by extensive experience in the restaurant domain, the team behind this venture has opted to keep most of the familiar items. The menu includes prawn spaghetti, marinated anchovies, steamed mussels and spicy octopus buyurdi, all really worth trying. However, the team has also ventured beyond the usual fare by adding some surf-and-turf elements to the menu. Choices include rib eye with lobster as well as burgers filled with black angus mince and smoked eel. The dishes go beautifully with the white Santorini wines on offer. • 68 Aeolou Street • Tel. (+30) 210.324.7925

Aiolou 68

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A Different Beast In the city’s northern suburbs lurks “A Different Beast”, an “industrial meets rustic” - style coffee and brunch house, equipped with upcycled furniture and guided by environmentally friendly principles. It offers a fresh, nutritious menu and attracts a trendy, artistic crowd as well as families with kids and pets. It’s known for its delicious pancakes with fresh fruit; poached eggs with avocado and feta cheese; rocket salad; and soft haloumi cheese with strawberries. Design

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lovers are often spotted, mingling and sipping Japanese whiskey as the sun goes down. Look for Evita and Alex, the likeable co-owners. • 19 Kassaveti, Kifissia • Tel. (+30) 216.700.4556

Different Beast

Modern Rooftop Dining

Odori

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Modern Rooftop Dining At a prime Athenian location – on the 7th floor of luxury design hotel Athenswas – this place offers an exquisite view of the Acropolis and the Columns of the Olympian Zeus. Modern Rooftop Dining assures diners a spot under the stars, whether seated inside or outside (courtesy of its glass roof). The impressive setting is complemented by a sophisticated mix of Greek cuisine fused with French and Japanese influences. Try the slow-cooked veal with mashed parsnip and wine sauce, the shell-based risotto, and the exquisite mille-feuille for dessert. • 5 Dionysiou Aeropagitou • Tel. (+30) 210.920.0240 Odori A stylish new focal point for eating and drinking has emerged on pedestrianized Skouleniou Street, right in the heart of the city’s historic center. Odori has the feel of a garden, with its caged song-birds and its dark green tiles reminiscent of foliage. Featuring an imposing 10-meter bar amid elegant surroundings, this vermuteria (vermouth house) exudes Italian charm and style. Odori, meaning scents or aromas, can also mean herbs; here, it is a reference to the wormwood and other herbs used as key ingredients in vermouth. The drinks list, which can certainly be called comprehensive, offers aperitifs and classic cocktails, as well as new versions of old favorites, while the wine selection features labels that are not necessarily Italian but use Italian grape varieties. The cuisine, also Italian, inevitably carries wider Mediterranean influences. Try the pizza with a focaccia base as well as the lasagna made with veal ragout. Open from early in the morning for special-blend coffee. • 2 Skouleniou • Tel. (+30) 210.331.4674

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Paleo Wine Bar Operating in an old space whose semi-dilapidated ceiling is now a clever sunroof, Paleo is a wine bar like no other, as its founder points out. Run by Yiannis Kaimenakis, an exceptionally gifted sommelier who has extensively explored vineyards throughout the Old Continent, Paleo stocks 360 wine labels from Southern Europe, where the plentiful sunlight helps produce rich, dense wines. The décor, totally enocentric, features old wine bottles, books about wine and wine crates. Accompany your choice with one of the regional cuisine dishes of the day. • 39 Polidefkous, Piraeus • Tel. (+30) 210.412.5204

Paleo Wine Bar

Pirée

The Zillers

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Pirée

Pirée Pirée, a new multi-purpose art and food space located in the port district of Piraeus, has been set up in what was a blacksmith’s workshop. Visitors may drink, dine, and enjoy the works of art on exhibit. Paintings, installations and design objects created by local artists are imaginatively incorporated into the existing decor. • 78 Kastoros, Piraeus • Tel. (+30) 210.408.2700-02 The Zillers The rooftop restaurant of the Zillers Athens Boutique Hotel (formerly the historic “Magna Grecia”) crowns the beautiful building, designed in 1895 by Ernst Ziller, the creator of some of the most iconic neoclassical architectural landmarks in the capital. The restaurant is exotic, chic and offers a full and uninterrupted view of the Acropolis. The bar, fitted with green marble from India and surrounded by a garden comprised of some 2,000 plants, serves signature summertime cocktails. The kitchen, focusing on creative Greek cuisine, prepares dishes with emphasis on quality and on the traceable provenance of ingredients. Try the sea bass with chickpea soup, finely chopped chorizo and rosemary. • 54 Mitropoleos • Tel. (+30) 210.322.2277

FOCUS Come with us to Greece’s biggest museum.

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Every Plant Tells a Story T H E N at i o n a l A r c h a e o l o g i c a l M u s e u m ’ s R E V A M P E D GAR D E N IS A OASIS I N b l o o m i n T H E M I D D L E O F T H E CI T Y

“It’s a very lively garden. The water lilies are closed in the morning; they open at midday and close again at night,” says the director of the National Archaeological Museum, Maria Lagogianni, in an excited tone as she shows me around clumps of freshly planted Cretan dittany, daffodils and two olive trees planted just after World War II. The museum is a wonderful example of neoclassical architecture, built in the late 19th century and given its final form by celebrated German architect Ernst Ziller. Today, we’re standing in its lovely internal courtyard. This area has been given a radical makeover by landscape architects Ecoscapes, with the support of Japan Tobacco International; it was unveiled to the public on June 17 as part of a series of events celebrating the museum’s 150th anniversary. The new garden has been designed both as a showpiece in its own right and as a complement to the exhibits, as 36

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it has been planted with native Greek species that appear in the country’s mythology. Cretan dittany, for example, does not grow anywhere else in the world, and Hippocrates used it to heal wounds. According to legend, Aphrodite used the same herb to heal her son Aeneas after he was struck by a spear in the Trojan War. Each of the plants in the garden tells a tale, or rather has a story that can be found on specially placed signposts or on bookmarks that visitors can take away as a souvenir. The water-lily pond, the myrtles and yews (among others) are arranged so that visitors can get an up-close look at them. The designers have used stabilized earth that retains moisture and lets the soil breathe, while also allowing it to be trodden upon. They have also ensued that visitors will be able to see flowers all year round. “It is always vibrant with life and

color, as we have plants for every season,” says botanist and landscape architect Antonis Skordilis, who conducted the study for the garden. So, after your visit to the museum’s superb collection of 11,000 artifacts, enjoy a refreshment in the new garden, which is also surrounded by exhibits from the museum’s permanent collection such as funerary steles, a mosaic floor and sculptures from the famed Antikythera shipwreck. Come July, the space will host modern works by Greek ceramists, “so that we can incorporate the ‘now’ into the ancient, eternal past,” says Lagogianni. - M a r i a Ko r ac h a i

Info National Archaeological Museum • 44 Patission • Tel. (+30) 213.214.4800 Open i n g h o u r s Daily 8:00-20:00

CULTURE

Dodona

The oracle of sounds One of ancient Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most venerated oracular sanctuaries is the subject of a not-to-be-missed new exhibition at the Acropolis Museum BY John Leonard

Bronze figurine of a young rider astride his mount. (570-550 BC.)

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CULTURE

Bronze figurine of a warrior, possibly a decoration from a bronze cauldron (lebes). (530-520 BC.)

he sanctuary of Zeus at Dodona, one of ancient Greece’s oldest and most venerated oracular sanctuaries, is the subject of a new temporary exhibition at the Acropolis Museum, open to visitors till January 10, 2017. Literary tradition holds that Dodona, located in northwestern Greece amidst the forests and snowy mountains of southern Epirus, was once home to the Great Goddess, who resided in the roots of a large oak tree. A gold ring discovered by archaeologists in the sanctuary, crafted some 3,500 years ago during the Bronze Age, depicts this female deity seated beneath a tree. By the time of Hesiod and Homer (ca. 700 BC), Zeus had supplanted the goddess and ruled Dodona as the God of Springs (Zeus Naios). His prophetic words were interpreted by priests, who studied the rustlings of a sacred oak beside his temple or the resonant sounds that emanated from a circle of bronze cauldrons. The Acropolis Museum’s exhibition showcases the splendors of distant Epirus, with its rugged wilderness, primitive cults, tribal dynasties and distinctive forms of prophecy. Displays include examples of the myriad

questions put to the Dodona oracle, engraved on lead sheets and requesting guidance on such everyday concerns as trade, debt, asset management, court decisions, health, fertility, upcoming marriage, dowries and widowhood. Also shown are bronze dedicatory offerings, including figurines, fragmentary statues and various items of armor and weaponry. Dodona enjoyed particular prominence in the 4th and 3rd centuries BC under Pyrrhus, twice king of Epirus (in 306-302 BC and 297-272 BC). During this time, Dodona had far-reaching connections with the rest of the Hellenistic world, including links with Athens. Dodona’s singular stone theater was installed by Pyrrhus — with massive, tower-like bastions supporting an auditorium that once accommodated about 17,000 spectators. In 232 BC, Dodona became the seat of the newly founded Epirote League. Coins and other objects in the exhibition highlight the sanctuary’s political role, while a video presentation introduces visitors to the oracle and offers a glimpse of the sanctuary’s majestic natural setting.

Info Open till January 10, 2017 • 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou • www.theacropolismuseum.gr An exhibition catalogue will be available for purchase. Visitors can also enjoy taste treats from Ioannina, as the Acropolis Museum’s restaurant is preparing a special menu for the period of the exhibition. The Dodona Exhibition is made possible through a collaboration between the Acropolis Museum, the National Archaeological Museum, the Ioannina Archaeological Museum and the 12th Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquities (Ioannina).

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culture

WHAT’S ON The city’s summer events, from modern art to classical opera BY xenia georgiadou

JULY 5/7 Fellini’s Rota The Athens State Orchestra, conducted by German Frank Strobel, one of the world’s pre-eminent experts on film scores, will perform highlights from the long-time collaboration between composer Nino Rota and director Federico Fellini. During the concert, which will take place at the stunning Roman-era Odeon of Herod Atticus, scenes from some of Fellini’s best-known films will be projected. • www.greekfestival.gr

30-31/7 1000 Pages in 12 Hours The young award-winning director Julien Gosselin and his “Si Vous Pouviez Lécher Mon Coeur” collective undertake the task of bringing to life both the stories and the labyrinthine structure of Roberto Bolano’s novel 2666, which remained unpublished until after the Chilean writer’s death. The book’s one thousand pages are rendered in a 12-hour show that immerses the 42

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audience in an apocalyptic atmosphere. In French with Greek supertitles. Athens Concert Hall (Megaron Mousikis) • www.greekfestival.gr

To 30/7 Jean Nouvel’s Mirrors Acclaimed French architect Jean Nouvel regards mirrors as objects that “live” with us and that reflect very personal moments, such as scenes from life in the home or even the view from a window. Like many of his modernist peers, Nouvel does not restrict himself to the construction of buildings but has expanded into designing interior spaces and furniture, approaching all his work with the same painstaking attention, regardless of scale. “Triptyques”, an exhibition of his work at the Gagosian Gallery, presents a series of limited-edition colored mirrors as well as the sculpture “Boîte à outils”, a reinterpretation of the typical household toolbox. 3 Merlin, Kolonaki • www.gagosian.com

To 31/8 Zoë Paul’s Symbolic Art Woolen threads woven into the grills of industrial refrigerators form a bridge between the ancient and modern in Zoë Paul’s “Solitude and Village” at the Breeder. The gallery is proud to present this series of new pieces that transcend historical moments and places. The artist uses household objects to challenge prevailing perceptions about symbolism, the body, and contemporary and archaeological artifacts. 45 Iasonos • thebreedersystem.com

SEPTEMBER To 16/9 The 1896 Olympic Games in Pictures The Marathon champion Spyros Louis looks into the lens of the camera in wonderment as he accepts his prize; the American discus and javelin throwers pose for a commemorative photograph; a gymnast stands poised to take on the rings: Albert Meyer, official photographer of the German national team at the 1896 Athens

BREEDER

GAGOSIAN GALLERY

CYCLADIC MUSEUM

“2666”

europeans’ athens

1896 olympics

Olympics, captured both the athletes and the audience at the most important event in modern sports history. At the Athens International Airport, curator Eva Nathena and video artist Angelos Papadopoulos, with help from musician George Poulios and VFX artists Nikos Kouros and Antonis Petroulias, have endowed these historic images from the Benaki Museum’s collection with sound and movement, transporting the public back to the moment of the modern revival of the ancient Games. A parallel exhibition is taking place at Costa Navarino resort, Messinia, Peloponnese, till November 30. Athens International Airport • www.aia.gr

To 25/09 Thomas Hope’s Istanbul Born into a family of bankers, Thomas Hope – who went on to become a designer and author of note – traveled to Greece and the Middle East in the late 18th century, enjoying an extended version of the Grand Tour, a journey that was de rigueur for the young people of his social class. The exhibition “Thomas Hope: Drawings of Ottoman Istanbul” at the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art reveals the young man’s impressions of the capital of the Ottoman Empire. Topographic drawings, sketches of churches, palaces, mosques, funerary monuments and scenes from the market and coffee shops all provide invaluable insight into life in Turkey at that time. 11 Aghion Asomaton & 12 Dipylou, Kerameikos • www.benaki.gr 44

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OCTOBER Up-and-coming Artists “The Equilibrists” at the Benaki Museum’s annex on Pireos Street presents 33 works by young Greek and Cypriot artists working in different media – sculpture, painting, performance, video and design – to comment on issues such as cultural identity, the politics of architecture and infrastructure, and how history is remembered. This tribute to up-and-coming artists is presented in cooperation with the New Museum in New York and honors the occasion of the 33rd anniversary of the founding of the DESTE Foundation for Contemporary Art. 138 Pireos & Andronikou,• www.benaki.gr

works inspired by the refugee crisis and the Cycladic civilization. Most prominent among his exhibits is the “Standing Figure,” a life-size marble sculpture alluding to the Spedos variety of Cycladic figurines. Its outstretched arms appear to have dropped a vessel which seems about to crash to the ground – a reference to the destruction of ancient works of art during China’s Cultural Revolution. Of equal significance are the flags that hang from the balcony of the museum’s Stathatos Mansion – one for Greece, one for Europe and a third which he has dubbed “Shadow.” The material used for the flags and their appearance are reminiscent of the thermal blankets distributed to refugees. 4 Neofytou Douka, Vas. Sophias & 1 Irodotou • www.cycladic.gr

To 30/10

NOVEMBER

To 9/10

Ai Weiwei at Cycladic If the purpose of modern art is to incite the mind, awaken the conscience and raise pressing questions, then China’s Ai Weiwei is, justifiably, considered one of the more significant artists of the new era. “I don’t know if I’m a good artist. I certainly am a good researcher, though,” he says. Works by this restless artist, architect, filmmaker and political activist are always focused and always pack a powerful emotional punch. This is the first time Ai Weiwei is exhibiting his sculptures and installations at an archaeological museum. The exhibition “Αi Weiwei at Cycladic” at the Museum of Cycladic Art presents

To 8/11 The Europeans’ Athens “A Dream Among Splendid Ruins... Strolling through the Athens of Travelers, 17th-19th Century” at the National Archaeological Museum gives us a glimpse into life in the Greek capital as viewed by western Europeans inspired by the classical movement of the time. Thirty-five marble sculptures from the museum’s collection are complemented by illustrations from published travel accounts as well as oil paintings, watercolors and engravings from the collection of the Library of the Hellenic Parliament. 44 Patission • www.namuseum.gr

BENAKI MUSEUM

IN PICTURE S

ICONIC VIEWS

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THINKING BIG, THINKING GREEN

The 210,000m2 park at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center is designed for visitor engagement: it has a canal, playgrounds, exercise areas, fountains and even a circular labyrinth. Paths cut through pockets of native plants, leading to a stunning 900m2 glass reading room under an energy-efficient canopy.

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in quest of human excellence, under the attic sky

The Panathenaic Stadium, refurbished in 1896 for the first modern Olympics, was given its monumental form in the 4th century BC. Athletes then and now have long competed for coveted honors on its oval track. A temple of Tyche (Fortune) once stood on the far hill.

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ZEA MARINA

The picturesque bay of Pasalimani (“Pasha’s harbor”) as it’s been known since Ottoman times, is the most cosmopolitan part of Piraeus (just 30 minutes from the city center on the ISAP train). Have a walk around and enjoy the view of the sea and the shiny yachts at one of its many cafes or restaurants.

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discover GREECE IS

ATH EN S

ANCIENT HERITAGE The Acropolis Museum marches on; the Museum of Cycladic Art traces the prehistoric roots of modernity; and the Athens & Epidaurus Festival continues to build on its reputation. © Drawing by Frida Arvanitaki, 10 years old, from the collection of the Museum of Greek Children’s Art.

Â© GIANNIS GIANNELOS

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

Treasury of World Heritage 54

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Home to masterpieces of Archaic and Classical art that once belonged on the Sacred Rock, the museum is a place of learning and a symbol of Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s role as a treasurer of world heritage.

Exterior view of the transparent museum building, designed by renowned Swiss arhitect Bernard Tschumi, in collaboration with the Greek architect Michael Photiadis. The glass floor in front of the entrance offers views of the archaeological excavation below.

BY JOHN LEONARD

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THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

The Dancer, 1st cent. BC, from the Sanctuary of Dionysus. Probably one the Horai, daughters of Zeus and Themis, who represented the seasons of the year. Perhaps from the triangular base of a dedicatory tripod.

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(Right) A cast of the Peplos Kore (ca. 530-525 BC), painted to represent the statueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original colours (detected and recreated by the Acropolis Museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Conservation Laboratory).

Â© VANGELIS ZAVOS

Â© CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU, GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

Scene of the Olympian gods, from the Ionic frieze on the east end of the Parthenon. Visible at right is a cast of one of the now-missing panels, removed from the Acropolis and residing in foreign collections

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THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

The Caryatids, from the South Porch of the Erechtheion (421-406 BC). Possibly libation bearers and cult attendants of the mythical Athenian king Cecrops, whose shrine/tomb lay just below the Porch.

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THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

t the Acropolis Museum, the details hold the key… from the soaring modern architectural features of the building itself and the ruins of an ancient, once-crowded neighborhood visible in excavations outside, to the scenes of women’s rituals and ancient everyday life found on Classical vases inside, in the Acropolis Slopes Gallery. However one also has to look beyond polished marble surfaces and stunning sculptural forms, and remember what is now missing, before they can fully appreciate the soul of ancient Greece. Traces of once-bright paint still cling to Archaic Kore (maiden) statues; striding Caryatid ladies and graceful Nike goddesses attend to their sacred rituals; intricately carved original panels from the Parthenon’s metopes and frieze stand ready for inspection beside casts of their brethren now in foreign museums; while the view to the Acropolis and surrounding city, framed within the top-floor gallery’s all-glass walls, provides an inspiring bonus display to the museum’s already superb exhibits. Take a moment as well to appreciate the friendly staff, the well-stocked book/ souvenir shops and the excellent rooftop restaurant and café, offering delicious, freshly innovative fare.

9,536,594

32,000

146,978

641,534

Total number of visitors from June 2009 until May 2016 Parthenon Gallery, view of the west pedimental sculpture of the Parthenon (447-432 BC), depicting the contest between Athena and Poseidon to become the patron deity of Athens.

students visited the Museum. 33% were from foreign schools

4,000

The record for daily visitors, recorded on August 29, 2015, day of the full moon

unique visitors used the Museum’s website in 2015

people visit the Museum daily. On average Approximately 75% attend individually and 25% visit as part of a group 60

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IN NUMBERS

Shops There are two shops, one on the ground floor and another on the second floor, which sell certified replicas crafted in the museum’s workshops, as well as jewelry, stationery, handmade ceramics, men’s and ladies’ accessories, toys and dozens of other items at affordable prices.

Cafe-Restaurant On the second floor, one finds a 700m2 terrace with a wonderful view of the Acropolis, where coffee, snacks and a selection of dishes are served, with a focus on traditional recipes based on seasonal ingredients. Visitors can also enjoy a typical Greek breakfast.

Useful tips Archaeologists and museum staff are on hand to answer visitors’ questions daily from 9:00 to 17:00. You can recognize them by their round badges, which state their official capacity. The museum frequently organizes presentations and encourages families to learn about its exhibits through specially devised games.

412,942

followers on Facebook

8,763

students attended educational programs

11th

The Acropolis Museum’s ranking in TripAdvisor’s Top 25 Museums in the World

Info Acr o p o l i s M u s e u m 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou • Tel. (+30) 210.900.0900 • www.theacropolismuseum.gr • Admission €5 • Open Mon 8:00-16:00, Tue-Wed-Thu-Sat-Sun 8:00-20:00, Fri 8:00-22:00

65% of visitors come from other countries, including the US (15%), France (7%), the UK and Italy (5% each), Germany, Spain and Australia (3% each) and China (2%)

IF STATUES COULD TALK

L a s t a d m i ss i o n is half an hour before closing.

Interviews with the museum’s top exhibits.

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HIS TORY

MUST-SEE sites in ShorT Chalking up memorable experiences and appreciating history is really what visiting this city is all about.

Â© SHUTTERSTOCK

BY John Leonard

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East end of the Parthenon, once the templeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main entrance, with the circular Temple of Roma and Augustus in the foreground.

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HIS TORY

isitors with an appetite for Greece’s ancient past will discover a virtual smorgasbord of experiences to choose from, given all the archaeological sites, scenic historic spots and freshly refurbished museum galleries now available around Athens. Even with only a few days of “site-seeing” time, there are certain key places not to be missed, as you explore the narrow streets, piney slopes and marble monuments that give the city a sense of timelessness. Εven visitors who think they already know what to expect will find that Athens holds many archaeological surprises and opportunities for new discoveries, from inspiring hilltop ruins, to towering Corinthian columns, to richly illustrated Byzantine manuscripts, all in the midst of the bustling modern city. Topping the list is the Acropolis: one should always begin with a pilgrimage to the most perfect marble temple ever built, one that survived condemning Christians, destructive conflagrations and Venetian bomb blasts. But don’t make straight for the Parthenon and miss all the intriguing other details to be noted during your walkabout. The Theater of Dionysus and the stone arches of The Odeon of Herodes Atticus lie just beside the path, as you tread up the South Slopes in the footsteps of probably every prominent ancient Athenian to have left their mark on history. Beginning about 2,500 years ago, this was an area of Athens frequented by playwrights, city leaders, social critics, would-be brides and many other inhabitants or visitors seeking musical entertainment, drama, laughter, religious

fulfillment or medical relief. The diminutive Sanctuary of Asclepius, once something of a hospice or health clinic, recalls to mind the terrible plague that swept through the walled-in, war-torn city of Athens and claimed the life of its great leader Pericles in 429 BC. As you climb higher, catch another glimpse of the Odeon from above, with its rising tiers of marble seats: a benefaction Herodes made to the city in the name of his late Italian-born wife Regilla—herself a great public benefactress and the head priestess of Fortuna’s temple, whose ruins lie hidden on the wooded knoll beside the horseshoe-shaped Panathenaic Stadium, easily distinguishable from the Acropolis. On another pine-clad hill, as you look out to the sea, stands the curving, partly preserved facade of a monumental tomb belonging to Gaius Julius Antiochus Philopappos, a distinguished Athenian citizen and the exiled ruler of a Roman-occupied kingdom in Asia Minor. Passing upward through the Propylaia, be sure to notice its coffered ceiling and the exquisite Ionic styling of the Athena Nike Temple to the right, both newly restored by the present-day Acropolis team of cutting-edge architects, engineers, conservators and stonemasons. On emerging from the colonnaded gateway, there lie before you the jewels of the Sacred Rock: the Parthenon with its refined Doric architecture; the Erechtheion with its elegant Caryatids and moldings; and, from the Belvedere (the spot on the Acropolis where the Greek flag stands), one of the most panoramic views of age-old Athens and its surrounding hills. Equally impressive experiences can

In the Athenian Agora, one can almost feel the presence of Socrates, philosophically sparring with the city’s youth... or of Thespis, the world’s first award-winning actor.

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1. Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a music hall erected in AD 161, now restored for Athens’ summer arts festival. 2. Sculptural displays in the Stoa of Attalos, an ancient colonnaded shopping mall enclosing the east side of the Athenian Agora.

4. Birds-eye view of National Archaeological Museum, home to the golden “Mask of Agamemnon” and other ancient Greek masterpieces .

3. The South “Caryatid” Porch of the Erechtheion, on the Acropolis, supported by temple maidens serving the mythical king Cecrops.

5. Ruins of the Middle Stoa in the Athenian Agora, once part of a commercial center, with the Acropolis above.

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The Roman-period orchestra of the Theater of Dionysus, where dramas, gladiators, wild animals and mock sea battles were regular fare.

DEMOCRACY How the people of ancient Athens ruled. be had at lower altitudes all around the Acropolis, especially at the Acropolis Museum. Here, you will reenact your earlier Acropolis ascent, as you move upward through the galleries, culminating in an opportunity to view the Parthenon’s remaining marbles up close and personal. West of the Acropolis is the Hill of the Muses, whose summit carries the Philopappos monument and offers more inspiring views of the templed Sacred Rock. Also visible are the blue Saronic Gulf and Piraeus, home to ancient Athens’ triple-basined military/commercial port. Adjacent is the Pnyx Hill, which still retains the speakers’ rostrum and hillside auditorium of the popular assembly (Ekklesia), which once echoed with the speeches of Pericles and Demosthenes. On the north side of the Acropolis, in the Athenian Agora, the ancient city’s main public square, one can almost feel the presence of Socrates, philosophically sparring with the city’s youth in the House of Simon the Shoemaker, or of Thespis, the world’s first award-winning actor who performed along the Agora’s lanes. The Temple of Hephaestus and Athena (Hephaisteion), the best-preserved temple of ancient Greece, also deserves a visit, while the Stoa of Attalos and its galleries of objects illustrating daily life and the ways of democracy in ancient Athens should not be missed. East of the Acropolis, as you me66

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ander through the winding streets of Plaka, the solitary Lysicrates Monument—a marble trophy-stand recognized today for its pioneering external use of the Corinthian style — not only stands as a tribute to past wealthy sponsors (choregoi) who financially backed ancient Athens’ theatrical performances, but also calls to mind Lord Byron. The flamboyant English nobleman once used this diminutive monument’s internal space as a study — in the early 19th c, when a Capucine convent which had grown up around the 4th c BC structure rented him rooms. Further east tower the massive Corinthian columns of the Olympieion, in the shadow of which one feels dwarfed by such an ambitious building project. As recently as the mid19th century, a monk who still carried on the ancient Stylite tradition sought a secluded refuge atop one of the columns, closer to God, and had his daily sustenance raised to him in a basket. The city’s most notable museums include the foremost National Archaeological Museum, where you will meet such prototypical works of art as the handsome statue of either Zeus or Poseidon, the Boxing Boys of Akrotiri, inSantorini and the amused Aphrodite slapping at Pan. Perhaps Athens’ most visually striking museum experience, however, can be had at the Byzantine and Christian Museum, where a resplendent array of artifacts are notable for their rich colors, golden surfaces and enormous spiritual and historical value.

Info Τhe Acropolis Tel. (+30) 210.321.4172 • Open daily 8:00-20:00 (summer) • Admission €20 ( There is also a €30 ticket allowing

admission to all main archaeological sites in Athens) Acropolis Museum 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou • Tel. (+30) 210.900.0900 • www.theacropolismuseum.gr • Admission €5 • Open Mon 8:00-16:00, Tue-Wed-ThuSat-Sun 8:00-20:00, Fri 8:00-22:00 ( Last

admission is half an hour before closing) At h e n i a n A g o r a a n d M u s e u m 24 Adrianou • Tel. (+30) 210.321.0185 • Open daily 8:00-15:00 (winter) 8:00-20:00 (summer) • Admission €8 O ly m p i e i o n Entrance from Vasilisis Olgas Avenue • Tel. (+30) 210.922.6330 • Open daily 8:00-20:00 (summer) • Admission €6 Byzantine and Christian Museum 22 Vasilisis Sofias • Tel. (+30) 213.213.9500 • Open Mon-Sun 8:00-20:00 • Admission €8 Nat i o n a l A r c h a e o l o g i c a l M u s e u m 44 Patission • Tel. (+30) 213.214.4800 • Open Mon-Sun 9:00-20:00 • Admission €10

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an amphora-shaped pendant, the olive branch “kotinos” gold earrings, the Alexander ring, the pelican of Mykonos porcelain mug, Greek chic customized espadrilles and slip on are some of the pieces that are created in this unique place. The store also features exclusively a specially designed line of clothing and jewels, made of top quality material, reflecting the direct influence by Ancient Greece. Their newest experience is to allow the client to tailor and co create a Greek holiday memory inside the shop’s design laboratory where a custom espadrille, leather sandals, hats, bags or t-shirts can be artfully made on the spot! On entering the store, a warm and comfort design lab invites you to push your creativity’s boundaries, dive into a designer’s mind and become the creator of your personal design. Free spirit, wild imagination and personal touch are all you need to create your own “ergon”; only at ’΄ergon Mykonos. The place of expression where everything is possible! Does it all sound Greek to you? Join us and find out… All creations are available in ’΄ergon Mykonos concept store at Ano Matoyannia in Mykonos island, online at ergonmykonos.com, and in selective shopping points in Greece and abroad.

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Museum of Cycl adic Art

ROOTS of MODERNITY A leading Athens institution offers visitors insights into civilizations that thrived in the Aegean and the Eastern Mediterranean for millennia. B Y A M A N D A MI C H A L O P O U L O U

(Left) Female figurine of canonical type, Dokathismata variety (Early Cycladic II period, ca. 2400 BC). (Right) The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cup-Bearer.â&#x20AC;? Male figurine, Spedos variety (Early Cycladic II period, ca. 2600 BC).

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Museum of Cycl adic Art

1. The latest technology is used to showcase the exhibits to their fullest advantage. 2. Children are especially interested in the interactive tables. 3. The exhibition on the fourth floor offers visitors a new perspective on daily life in ancient Athens.

ÂŠ VANGELIS ZAVOS, DIMITRIS TSOUMPLEKAS

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4. The Cypriot collection is one of the biggest outside of Cyprus and includes exhibits from the 4th millennium BC to Medieval times. 5. Pyxis with lid, 760-750 BC. Pyxes were initially used to hold cosmetics or jewelry. The Attic vessel is particularly ornate; its lid, shown here, is decorated with equine figures.

Museum of Cycl adic Art

very tourist anxious to rush through Athens and head to the Greek islands this summer should spend at least a few hours at the Museum of Cycladic Art. The visit will add depth, meaning and historical dimension to the usual routine of the holiday experience (sea – sun – horiatiki salad). On the four floors of that museum, we can all learn a lot, not only about the Cyclades and ancient art, but about ourselves. Let me explain: In my teens, I liked to doodle, drawing meanders, rhombuses and concentric triangles on any scrap of paper lying around. This aniconic art helped me pass the time as I chatted to my friends on the phone or was bored with life in general; it was, in short, an activity that literally saved me during that period of dissatisfaction and ennui, and I rediscovered it on the second floor of the Museum of Cycladic Art, right there in the middle of the 10th century BC Attic wine jugs. The lines I had drawn for years, my idle doodles, were there, decorating ancient vessels. Like my adolescence, the 10th century BC was predominantly a dark period, as commercial trade fell off markedly, art became largely decorative and the dead were buried with nothing more than bronze clasps holding their garments and modest burial gifts at their sides. As is the custom in life and in the passage of civilizations, after darkness comes light, and in the 9th century BC, society breathed once more: commerce picked up, ties were forged with the Phoenicians and the written word was reintroduced to the Aegean after a four-century hiatus. At the Museum of Cycladic Art, we witness these strides in history. The transitions are, if nothing else, comforting. All that ends, starts again, an incredibly encouraging thought during our current strange and dark period in Europe. The Museum of Cycladic Art was founded 30 years ago, in 1986, by Dolly and Nikos Goulandris. It was a highly political initiative, a calculated response to the theft of antiquities that plagued the Cycladic islands in the 1950s and 60s. During the 50s and 60s, the characteristic Cycladic figurines (also known as “idols”) – with their sculpted nose, right arm crossed under the left, the slightly bent knee and elevated heels – were sources of inspiration for Western European avant-garde painters and sculptors. Constantin Brancusi, Pablo Picasso, Henry Moore and Amedeo Modigliani viewed the Cycladic figure as the paradigm of modernism and minimalism. Naturally, this led to an ever-increasing interest in Early Cycladic art and, of course, a booming market. Peddlers who had previously referred to these idols as “dolls” and who

During the 50s and 60s, the characteristic Cycladic figurines were sources of inspiration for Western European avant-garde painters and sculptors.

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must-see exhibits

Violin-shaped figurine

Female figurine

Small marble krater

Possibly originating from Antiparos, the figure dates to the Early Cycladic I period (3200–2800 BC). Such figurines, so named for their distinctive violin-like appearance, compose the most commonly found type of schematic human figure carved in the early phase of the Cycladic civilization.

Dating to the Early Cycladic I period, the figure belongs to the Plastiras type, named after the Plastiras cemetery in northern Paros. Characteristic is the conical cap with horizontal grooves.

The small krater (krateriskos) is the most prevalent type of marble container in the Early Cycladic I period (3200–2800 BC). The vessel’s popular name kandila, common among Cycladic villagers, stems from its resemblance to the kandiles (votive lamps) of Orthodox Christian churches.

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The elegant Stathatos Mansion, built in 1895 by architect Ernst Ziller for the Stathatos family of ship owners and national benefactors, hosts the temporary exhibitions of the Museum (see “Agenda”).

Museum of Cycl adic Art

had given them to children as toys were suddenly being offered staggering amounts for their wares; a thousand drachmas per inch of statue! The illegal excavations that followed resulted in the coordinated destruction of the Cyclades: a total of around 1,600 figurines were unearthed. If we consider that, on average, only one in 10 graves contained such items, we understand how many thousands of graves were pillaged during that time. Almost half the burial gifts were discovered in Kavos, on the uninhabited islet of Keros. Most were broken, and probably had been since ancient times. However, not all the idols were unearthed broken. Often, to hide them during transport, the smugglers themselves would break the figures into pieces and stash them in fruit crates! According to archaeologists, the spot on Keros may have been some kind of sanctuary, and it’s possible the statuary featured in some still unknown ritual. Today, we may be in awe of the “Keros Hoard,” but the sight of an entire hillside literally razed by looters was a deeply disturbing one for the archaeologists who first encountered it in 1963. They knew that, even if the figurines were recovered, valuable information regarding their discovery and initial use had been lost. It was in the midst of this, in 1962, that Dolly and Nikos Goulandris were granted their collector’s license and began repatriating Cycladic idols in a bid to stem the illegal export of antiquities. Over time, they built the biggest collection in the world. Today, some of the stars of that collection – violin-shaped female figures with incised pubic triangles and lined abdomens – are showcased on the first floor.

The Museum’s creation, 30 years ago, was a highly political initiative, a calculated response to the theft of antiquities that plagued the Cycladic islands in the 1950s and 60s.

Cup-bearer Figurine seated on a stool and holding a cup, as if preparing to offer a toast or libation (Early Cycladic II, ca. 2600 BC, Spedos variety). It belongs to the carved compositions that go beyond the static, representing figures involved in some activity.

Vase with doves

Marble pyxis

One of the most beautiful creations in ancient Cycladic art (Early Cycladic II). At the bottom of the large, circular plate are 16 carved birds, probably doves, a favorite Cycladic theme.

A distinctive pyxis in the form of a pig, dating to the Early Cycladic I/II (3000– 2400/2300 BC). Its elaborate design testifies to the Cycladic sculptors’ familiarity with marble and their ability to give such a hard material whatever shape they wished.

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Museum of Cycl adic Art

TIPS

Don’t miss the collection of children’s toys, such as the turtle rattle or the articulated dolls that heralded the modern marionette. Take a moment, too, to examine the black-glazed vessels and the impressive bronze basin with handles, probably used at symposiums for diners to wash their hands. Look for the Corinthian plate with the caricature of a naked man, something exceptionally rare in the Classical period, as well as the small amphorae with the cartoon-like drawings of swans, lion, geese and wild boar. Last but not least, check out the Minoan bird’s-nest cup made of marble and the stirrup jar or “false-neck amphora” with the spout.

INFO M A I N B U I L D I N G 4 Neophytou Douka T h e S tat h at o s M ansi o n Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Irodotou • Tel. (+30) 210.722.83.21-3 • www.cycladic.gr O p e ning H o u r s Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00 • Thu 10:00-20:00 • Sun: 11:00-17:00 • Admission €7

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Visitors will notice that not all of these idols look the same. Over time, some of the features evolved. Their heads became more almond-shaped, creases flanked their breasts and their legs were separated. Their form, however, remained largely unchanged over four whole centuries. Such marked conservatism is usually associated with religious art, so it’s possible the figures are of female deities that were worshipped in the Cyclades. If this hypothesis is true, then these women-violins are the first depictions of divine figures in Aegean art. The second floor of the museum is dedicated to ancient Greek art, from the middle and late Bronze Age to Classical times (480-323 BC), and the Hellenistic and Roman erasm through the 4th and 5th c. AD. Here we observe, again and again, how societies, their activities, the rise and fall of every civilization, are all instrumental to shaping the craftsmanship of each period, influencing form, subject matter and utility. From the much sought-after clay jars created by the prehistoric civilizations of Knossos and Mycenae to the more decorative art of those ancient Dark Ages, what is evident from all the finds displayed is that prosperity brought a penchant for luxury, even when it came to mundane objects. In contrast, periods of poverty, organized migration (i.e., during the colonization of Southern Italy) and the decline of trade are reflected in pieces that are more formulaic and utilitarian. In the Archaic period, city-states once more found themselves in a position to move forward and form the foundations of new institutions. They developed new laws, a system of writing, the concept of currency and armies of hoplites. At this point in history, we see the emergence of utilitarian art in war, such as the Corinthian helmet, worked from a single sheet of bronze. But war did not just mean new jobs in the ranks of the hoplites; it also meant violence and destruction. The casualties mounted, first from the Persian Wars and later from the wars between Athens and Sparta. Scenes of ceremonies in which the living usher the dead into the afterlife feature in funerary reliefs of this period. In the 1st c. BC, glass became a star

in its own right, thanks to technological advances that led to its mass production. It is also then, during the Hellenistic and Roman periods, that a centralized authority model gave an air of globalism to both social structures and art. Currency unions were established and Graeco-Roman traditions found themselves entangled with Oriental art. As a result, the earliest statues of Buddha clothe him in Greek robes! The museum’s third floor, completed four years ago, was given over to the Cypriot collector Thanos N. Zintilis so that he might display the most comprehensive collection of Cypriot art in the Hellenic world. The collection is a marvelous showcase highlighting the Hellenization of Cyprus by Greek settlers, who introduced both the Arcadian dialect and the paradigms of Aegean art to their new island home. Here, among other objects, we see the crossshaped figures currently depicted on the €1 and €2 coins minted in Cyprus today. We also see a clay jug used to transport opium, the only pain killer available in ancient times. Here, too, is the splendid necklace from the tomb of Arsinoe – an exhibit item coveted by museums around the world – decorated with sapphires, emeralds and pearls, and showing clear Assyrian influences. It’s not all ancient on the third floor – modern technology has been put to good use here, as there are two interactive stations where you can learn a great deal about the history and art of the Mediterranean. The same is the case on the fourth floor, where 142 objects of ancient Greek art are used as educational material to create everyday scenes from daily life in ancient times: among the subjects are personal grooming habits, the marriage ritual, a regular day in the Agora, war and death. To help visitors identify easily with the people of ancient Greece, the museum takes us through the life of Leon, a fictional character born in 458 BC. We follow him from his childhood home to the palaestra, the wrestling school, all the way to his grave. This is an excellent way to familiarize children with the cycle of life as well as with Greek history. However, this is also an opportunity for the entire family to explore its new-found knowledge.

SH O P & E N J OY The MCA shop, offering a wide selection of design objects and stylish accessories inspired by Cycladic art, is located on the ground floor of the Main Building, at 4 Neophytou Douka St. It is open not only to museum visitors but to anyone ineterested in purchasing a gift or book. Make sure to conclude your visit with a stop at the Museum’s cool Cycladic Café, where juices, snacks, wine and light dishes are served. Every Thursday and Friday, the café hosts two special gastronomic experiences, “Aegean Cheese and Wine” and “Aegean Taste”, in association with Trip2Taste (www. trip2taste.com).

The Greek National Opera’s 2013 premiere of Wagner’s The Flying Dutchman, directed by Yannis Kokos, at the magnificent Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

Summer Athens & EPIDAURUS Festival

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For 60 years, the Greek Festival has served as the country’s premiere cultural event, attracting some of the greatest names on the international theater and music scene. B Y M A T O U L A K o U S T E N I

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Alexis Minotis at a rehearsal of Hecuba with the Greek National Theater (1955).

The Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater (1986).

Sylvie Guillem with the Tokyo Ballet (1996).

Herbert von Karajan rehearsing with the Berlin Philharmonic (1963).

Maria Callas as Norma (1960).

Ian McKellen in Peter Hall’s Coriolanus (1985).

Dimitris Mitropoulos rehearsing with the New York Philharmonic at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (1955).

Luciano Pavarotti (2001).

Igor Stravinsky at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (1966).

Pina Bauschâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wuppertal Dance Theater (2001).

Rudolf Nureyev and Margot Fonteyn (1963).

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ummer 1955: Elvis Presley was recording with Sun Records in the USA, while in France, Simone de Beauvoir, who had won the Prix Goncourt for her novel The Mandarins just half a year earlier, was preparing to visit China with Jean-Paul Sartre. In Greece, it was a time of both cultural and political change, and George Rallis, then Minister for the Presidency of the Government, decided to organize an arts festival in Athens. To give it a more international profile, the renowned theater director of the Metropolitan Opera of New York, Dinos Giannopoulos, was invited to organize the debut. On 24 August 1955, a little before 8 pm, the Athens State Orchestra opened the festival with Handel’s Largo. Some 40 days later, the greatest Greek conductor of all time, Dimitris Mitropoulos, conducted the New York Philharmonic Orchestra at the Orpheus Theater (rain had ruled out the Odeon of Herodes Atticus as a venue). “No one has received such warm and prolonged applause as Mitropoulos,” the press wrote at the time. From this auspicious beginning, the Athens Festival would go on to become a cultural institution of decisive importance for the country. Thirsty for artistic creativity, the public immediately embraced the festival that would forever change the Greek summer. Not only did it become the flagship for artistic events, but it was also the institution that gave successive generations of attendees their cultural baptism. The festival introduced Greek audience to the international cultural scene, while simultaneously strengthening its relationship with native-born artists. Over the past six decades, the festival has hosted some of the leading lights of theater, music and dance, including Maria Callas (who returned to Greece in 1957 after a 12-year absence); Margot Fonteyn (who appeared for the first time in 1961 and returned the following two years with Rudolf Nureyev); Leonard Bernstein (with whom the New York Philharmonic returned in 1959); Herbert von Karajan (who twice conducted the Berlin Philharmonic, in 1962 and 1965); and Martha Graham, one of the greatest artists of the 20th century. Others who have graced the festival include Mstislav Ros-

tropovich, Luciano Pavarotti, Yehudi Menuhin, Sylvie Guillem, Pina Bausch and George Balanchine, to name just a few more, along with such Greek luminaries as Mikis Theodorakis, Manos Hadjidakis and Leonidas Kavakos. There were, of course, some teething problems in the early years; having adopted tried and tested formats from abroad, the festival at first seemed to be addressing itself more to older audiences, playing it safe with major ensembles, famous soloists and classical ballet. Boldness was not encouraged; Modern Greek theater pioneer Karolos Koun’s production of Aristophanes’ The Birds, for instance, was withdrawn in 1959 because it was considered blasphemous. However, this conservatism eventually disappeared as younger generations of artists claimed their place in the program, with the American Ballet Theater (1970), the Nederlands Dans Theater (1972) and the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater (1979) bringing the first wave of modernism. From the early ‘80s onwards, the festival became known for a decidedly more innovative approach. In 1984, Japan’s Toho Theatre Company, directed by multi-awarded Yukio Ninagawa, staged one of the greatest ever performances of Medea, featuring a male actor in the title role. One year later, as the city of Athens celebrated its designation as the European Capital of Culture, the Royal National Theater presented a truly memorable production of Coriolanus, directed by Peter Hall and starring Ian McKellen. PERFORMING UNDER THE ACROPOLIS Thanks to the festival, cultural life during the Athens summer now revolves around the magnificent Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the Roman theater financed by Herodes Atticus in the 2nd century AD and built on the southwest slope of the Acropolis. The route up to the theater, particularly from the Temple of Olympian Zeus, is like a walk through the city’s ancient past, the evening air heavy with the scent of jasmine, the sound of children playing in the streets, a sense of escape and expectation. The Odeon was the first venue to be identified with

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus was the first venue to be identified with the festival. Organizers shrewdly “sold” to foreign artists the opportunity to perform under the “halo” of the Acropolis.

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Maria Callas and Antonino Votto after a recital (1957).

The Iliad at 260 Pireos (2013).

Willem Dafoe and Mikhail Baryshnikov in The Old Woman (2013).

Beckett’s 24-hour experimental Mercier and Camier (2013).

Dizzy Gillespie (1989).

Ethan Hawke in The Winter’s Tale, Epidaurus (2009).

Mstislav Rostropovich conducting the Washington Symphony with soloist Leonidas Kavakos (1988).

Montserrat Caballe at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (2012).

Backstage, Stage Walkers, Epidaurus (2011).

Stage Walkers, Epidaurus (2011).

Karyofyllia Karabeti in Ramona Travel (2014).

Phaedra with Helen Mirren and Margaret Tyzack at Epidaurus (2009).

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the festival. Organizers shrewdly “sold” to foreign artists the opportunity to perform under the “halo” of the Acropolis. They, in turn, infused their efforts with inspiration from ancient Greece, and helped the festival quickly develop an international reputation. Theodore Kritas, the legendary producer and director who for decades was responsible for inviting artists to the Odeοn, recalls travelling to Moscow to speak with Rostropovich about performing. It only took him a few minutes to convince the great cellist and conductor; so captivating was the chance to perform in the shadow of the Acropolis. Leonard Bernstein was also delighted to perform at the festival, expressing his enormous admiration for the venue. In fact, the only special request he made was to be allowed, the day after his 1977 concert, to visit the grave of Dimitris Mitropoulos, his mentor and friend. THE EPIDAURUS CHAPTER Just as the presence of Dimitris Mitropoulos had been integral to the success at the Odeon, actor-director Dimitris Rondiris became a key figure for the Great Theater of Epidaurus. It was Rondiris who established a new way of “interpreting” the ancient tragedies; his 1954 production of Euripides’ Hippolytos served as a dress rehearsal for the inaugural Epidaurus Festival the following year. For its official inauguration, an invitation was sent to actor and director Alexis Minotis, who had already distinguished himself in the theatres of England and who had appeared in Alfred Hitchcock’s Notorious alongside Cary Grant and Ingrid Bergman. Minotis chose to direct Euripides’ Hecuba by the National Theater, with Katina Paxinou in the title role. From this bright beginning, the Epidaurus Festival grew, soon becoming a great competitive arena for the world of theater. One of the greatest artists to grace the Epidaurus Festival was undoubtedly Maria Callas. On 24 August, 1960, she performed Bellini’s Norma with the National Opera of Greece and with Tullio Serafin conducting. As she sang the Casta Diva aria, two white doves were released, prompting a storm of applause. At the end of the performance that night, the enthusiasm of the audience was so great that Callas reappeared for 10 encores. La Divina returned to Epidaurus the following year, again

performing with the National Opera, this time in Luigi Cherubini’s Medea. Directed by Alexis Minotis before an audience of around 17,000, it was another triumph, with Callas receiving a standing ovation. Because of the festival, life in and around Epidaurus takes on a different quality every Friday and Saturday in August. At Lygourio, the village that welcomes thousands of audience members after the performances, the locals are said to measure their age relative to the festival. In the early years, when there were no hotels, these same villagers would accommodate the festival performers in their own homes. Since the festival began, other venues – in addition to the Odeon and Epidaurus – have sought to host events, including the Lycabettus Theater and the Stoa of Attalos. The man who envisioned a festival that would embrace the entire city of Athens was its former artistic director Giorgos Loukos. It was Loukos who, in 2006, launched an ambitious program of expansion. As a first step, an old furniture factory at 260 Pireos Street was renovated and transformed into a hub of avant-garde artistic expression. Many other new venues soon followed. Today, the Festival is deeply ingrained in our DNA. Most of us have fond memories of events we have seen at the Odeon or at Epidaurus, and we still look forward to the next performances. As the years go by, I’m sure we’ll still worry that we’ve forgotten to switch off our cell phones, and we’ll still hide bottles in our bags for those particularly warm evenings. We’ll still be vexed by those stiletto heels that we couldn’t forego wearing, despite repeated warnings from archaeologists about the serious damage they cause to the monuments. We’ll continue to be outraged by the kilos of chewing gum removed from the marble by the special clean-up teams. At the Odeon, political figures will squeeze into the front rows, while the upper tier will be full of young people. The seats will always be uncomfortable for long performances. Row 19 at the end of the lower tier will remain expensive, in great demand by those in the know, since this is the only row where the seats come with back support. And tourists will continue to use up the memory capacity of their cameras on their first visit, and leave the theater waxing lyrical about an incredible life experience…

Info For information on this season’s program, tickets, box offices and venues, visit www.greekfestival.gr. Group tickets hotline (+30) 210.327.2000 (9:00-21:00) • Email: tickets@greekfestival.gr.

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ATH EN S

IN THE CITY OR BY THE SEA? When you’re done ‘doing’ the historic center, with its countless sites and haunts, the Athenian Riviera, the closest alternative to an island holiday, is just a half hour away. © Drawing by Altea Goga, 9 years old, from the collection of the Museum of Greek Children’s Art.

ΤΗΕ ΑTHENS RIVIE R A

ISLAND LIVING A STONE’S THROW FROM THE CITY Along the capital’s southern coast, less than an hour’s drive or tram ride from the center, you’ll find it all – a rich history, a sense of cosmopolitan nonchalance and dozens of beautiful beaches with clear-blue waters. BY ALEX ANDR A MANDR AKOU photos PERIKLES MER AKOS

Athenians hit the beach when the temperature rises and Varkiza is an all-time classic destination.

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igging through my childhood memories, I keep returning nostalgically to one particularly classic and well-loved Athenian scene: our Sunday family outings along the Saronic Gulf, with the southern suburb of Vouliagmeni as our destination. After spending the morning in gleeful play on the beach of Kavouri – which we did almost year-round, as summer never seemed to end there – my sister and I would look pleadingly at our parents, waiting with bated breath for them to suggest a stop at Aqua Marina (which still exists today) on the landward side of the coastal highway. There, we would each invariably order a “mouse,” a cake popular among kids in the 1980s. It was a layered pastry of luxurious chocolate and sponge, topped with a chocolate-covered cream puff shaped like… well, like a mouse, and it was delicious. Finding a table at Aqua Marina was often a challenge, but you could always get your order to go. From June onwards, once school had closed, a day out meant a day on the beach at Lagonisi or Saronida, where several of our family friends, like so many other Athenians, had summer homes. Growing up, my path to adulthood never strayed far from the color and smells of the sea: teenage outings to Glyfada for burgers; crazy nights sweating, dancing and flirting in heels that pinched my feet at the nightclubs and bouzouki stages of Poseidonos Avenue; romantic first dates, kissing in the car at the promontory of Lemos in Vouliagmeni – an enduring lovers’ spot – or, less romantically, doing battle for a table at the bustling fish tavernas by the sea. “No other part of the Mediterranean has such a plethora of varied coastlines, so close to the capital,” reads an

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The tram is a pleasant way to travel along the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southern coast, from Neo Faliro all the way to Voula.

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A game of chess at Bati beach in Paleo Faliro.

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article published in 1963 in Eikones, arguably the most popular magazine of the time. The fact is, however, that when we were growing up, it never even crossed our minds how lucky we were to live in a city so close to the sea. For us, the seaside was part of the city, part of our lives. But that’s not how earlier Athenians saw it. “Historically, Athens has always been in the center of the Attica basin, around the Acropolis, and had a separate port, nearby, at Piraeus. It never really developed along the length of the coastline, only vertically towards it,” explains architectural historian Stavros Martinos. “The notion of ‘coastal Athens’ dates to the early 20th century at best, when a private cooperative decided to build summer homes for the Athens elite on the marshlands of Faliro Bay, as had been the case in Kifissia in the north, to take advantage of the rail connection between Athens and Piraeus. In effect, though, the connection of the city to the sea is a distant notion, and the coast remains a different world. “The area that does have a strong connection to the sea is the stretch from Paleo Faliro to Glyfada. Likewise, smaller seaside towns like Voula and Vouliagmeni make sense in the broader scheme of things, because they have marinas and promenades.” Though there is little there today to reference its bygone grandeur, the history of the Athens Riviera did in fact begin in Neo Faliro, on the outskirts of Piraeus. The construction, in 1905, of the landmark luxury hotel Aktaion (replaced today by a large private hospital) and the development of good public transport services spurred Neo Faliro’s transformation into a popular cosmopolitan resort, the haunt of the city’s enfants gâtés. These golden days were short-lived, however, as the appearance of industrial units along the banks of Kifissos River – which lets out in Faliro Bay – during the interwar years led to 92

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An exact replica of the trireme Olympias is permanently on display at Trocadero.

Fishing boats at sunset at Paleo Faliro.

Thales of Miletus, the world’s oldest cable ship, is permanently docked at Trocadero.

A table by the sea at Galazio Kyma, Aghia Marina: the perfect way to end a day at the beach.

ARCHELON, the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece in Glyfada is open to the public on weekends.

Foot traffic starts getting heavier in the evening at Paleo Faliro.

The pedestrianized strips by the sea at Paleo Faliro are great for a stroll.

Professional fisherwoman Chrysoula sorting her nets at Alimos Marina.

Chilling on the rocks at Vouliagmeniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Limanakia.

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the progressive decline of the area at large. Athens did not start casting its eyes back towards the sea again until the late 1950s, with the construction of the Poseidonos coastal highway and other efforts to improve the tourism infrastructure. The foundation stone for this new era was laid in Glyfada, with the 1954 unveiling of Asteria, a pioneering beach complex with cabanas, bungalows, a restaurant and a bar. Other organized beaches, in Vouliagmeni and elsewhere, followed over the years. By the 1960s, Athenians were living to the rhythm of their own dolce vita, dancing on the sand, drinking Campari and soda, and eating hot dogs under the warm Attic sun. The city had discovered the charms of beach culture, and when the weather was fine, which was usually from April through October, this is what life was all about. This happy message, however, was never successfully conveyed to the city’s visitors. How many of our readers know that less than 10 kilometers from the city center there’s a stunning coastline boasting luxury-grade organized beaches, free-access bathing spots, high-end hotels and marinas filled with private yachts? How many are aware that Athens’ beaches are lively and inviting, or that remarkable efforts – mainly by private businesses in the area – have been made to establish the Athens Riviera as a brand name and an intrinsic part of the capital’s cultural identity? How many readers could tell you that the triangle formed by three of Greece’s most important archaeological sites – the Acropolis, the Temple of Poseidon at Sounio and the Temple of Aphaea on the island of Aegina – is graced by a ribbon of coastline where leisure and entertainment go hand in hand with history and culture? Do they realize that the tram, the main mode of transport between Neo Faliro and Voula, always smells faintly of coconut 94

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The notion of ‘coastal Athens’ dates to the early 20th century at best, when a private cooperative decided to build summer homes for the Athens elite on the marshlands of Faliro Bay.

It’s not an island, but it looks like one – the view from the beautifully situated La Isla Bo on Voula beach.

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The graffiti at Flisvos Park is, naturally, marine-themed.

oil in the summer, or that a 20-minute drive from downtown Athens could afford them the opportunity to water-ski, windsurf or indulge in any other activity that tickled their fancy, such as renting a boat and heading out with friends for a day on the sea? There are those who are trying to get the message out there. “You won’t find what we have here anywhere else in the world; the sense that you’ve escaped to an island when, in reality, you’re still right on the fringe of a big city,” says Chrysanthos Panas, a businessman who grew up in the southern suburbs and who was the first to use the term ‘Athens Riviera’ to describe the city’s coastal front, soon convincing others to do so as well. Stray a bit from the heart of this beautiful new Riviera, however, and not everything is as golden. The approximately 40k stretch that connects Neo Faliro to Saronida (it’s another 27k from there to the breath-taking temple at Sounio) offers lovely sandy beaches, rocky outcrops seemingly designed for sunning and diving, and clean bathing waters, but you will also come across fences and gates preventing free ac96

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cess to the beach, effectively cutting it off from the urban fabric. There are also the closed Olympic facilities (such as the Tae Kwon Do and Beach Volley stadiums), huge concrete ghosts from the heyday of 2004 when the Olympic Games returned amid so much fanfare to their birthplace. There is the massive expanse of the city’s old airport at Elliniko – until 2001, airplanes literally swooped across the rooftops of houses to land and take off – which will eventually be transformed into a metropolitan park, but currently serves as a refugee reception center. There’s even the coastal highway itself, which, as one of the largest high-speed roads in Athens, seems at times to literally sever the sea from the city. While some stretches of the coast are facing challenges, there’s much brighter news close to home. The nearly-completed Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center on Faliro Bay, designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano and set in beautiful gardens covering more than 200,000m2, will help transform the entire area around it. This much-anticipated and boldly ambitious project, bringing together

The 40k stretch that connects Neo Faliro to Saronida offers lovely sandy beaches and rocky outcrops for sunning and diving, but you will also come across fences preventing free access to the beach.

the new premises of both the National Library and the Greek National Opera, is expected to open to the public within the next few months. It will undoubtedly revitalize yet another stretch of the city’s coast and give Athens another reason to look to its shores. When the new visitors to the Center arrive, they, too, will enjoy that Athens Riviera feeling: the sea at their feet, the city at their back and the sun on their shoulders.

Caique fishing boats may seem an odd sight just a few dozen kilometers from the city center.

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RIVIERA HIGHLIGHTS Our favorite places to hang out along the southern coast, both day and night.

The New Landmark A rather unsightly stretch of the coastal road at Faliro Bay has received a facelift, thanks to renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano. The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, which will serve as the new home of both the Greek National Library and the Greek National Opera, and which will also bring the area a 21-hectare park, is scheduled to open in 2017. The Visitors Center, however, is already open to the public and features an exhibition on this monumental construction project, highlighting its advanced technological and architectural features (such as the new water canal and the energy-efficient roof). The Center also hosts various workshops for adults and children, as well as cultural events. 98

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Info Open daily except Monday 10:00-21:00 • Tel. (+30) 210.877.8396, 210.877.8398 • www.snfcc.org

Getting there Β2 and 550 buses (Onasseio stop) & SNFCC Shuttle service from Syngrou-Fix metro station is available for scheduled events.

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A Day at Flisvos The Palio Faliro coast that runs from the Trocadero Tram Stop to Edem has retained some of its former glamor as a cosmopolitan resort; hidden among the tall apartment buildings, you can still spot a few surviving architectural gems such as the neo-gothic Kouloura Mansion, on the corner of Tritonos and Poseidonos Ave. This is one of the few stretches along the Athens Riviera that you can comfortably explore on foot or by bicycle, thanks to the pedestrianized strips by the sea. Start your day with a visit to the Battleship Georgios Averoff, which has been turned into a museum. Have a coffee, a nice lunch or maybe just an ice cream to go at the Flisvos Marina as you check out the luxury yachts. If you’re with the kids, take them to the huge playground in Flisvos Park, which comes equipped with picnic kiosks, a petanque court and a place where you can

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rent pedal go-karts (€5 for 30 minutes). The scent of oregano and pennyroyal wafts in from the educational herb garden, stocked with native Greek flora; it’s certainly worth exploring. Or, if all this sounds like hard work, just spread out a towel under the shade of a palm tree and relax between dips in the sea. The best way to end this perfect day is to catch a movie at the open-air Cine Flisvos (tel +30 210.982.1256; tickets cost €8, €6 on Tuesday), quenching your thirst with an ice-cold beer.

Getting there Syntagma-SEF tram (Trokadero, Parko Flisvou, Flisvos and Batis stops), Syntagma-Asklipio Voulas tram (Panagitsa and Edem stops).

RIVIE R A HIGHLIGHTS

The Enchanted Lake Urban legend has endowed this lake with a touch of the supernatural, possibly because divers have disappeared in the past while trying to explore its hidden depths, swept up in the strong current that flows at the entrance to its labyrinthine underwater cave system. Another mystery that Lake Vouliagmeni offers is that of its own depth; no one has been able to determine just how far down it goes. Other than the sheer beauty of the spot and the balmy temperature (a steady 22-29C) of the lake’s brackish water – constantly fed both by the sea and by under102

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ground springs – the main attraction here are the Garra rufa. These tiny black fish will rush towards your feet as soon as you step into the water and, if you’re not squeamish, will start giving you the perfect natural exfoliating treatment by nibbling at your dead skin cells. The facilities at the lake include the all-day bar-restaurant, with coffee served from 9:00, lunch from noon, and cocktails well into the night, with patrons enjoying a dazzling view of the spectacular cliff that rises from the lake. There are also changing rooms, showers and full wheelchair access.

Info Tel. (+30) 210.896.2237 • www.limnivouliagmenis.gr • Admission costs €10 on weekdays, €11 on weekends.

Getting there 115, 117 and 122 buses or the KTEL Intercity bus for Sounio (Limni stop).

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Skipper’s A Local Favorite

The Alimos Marina was still under construction in September 1987 when Skipper’s first opened, striking a new note on the coastal strip’s nightclub scene – then dominated by neon-lit clubs thumping out Greek pop – with its yacht-inspired décor, its jazz and rock tunes, and its instantly loyal fans. Casual and unpretentious, Skipper’s initially attracted the yacht crowd, but soon became the kind of place where you go on a first date, hang out with friends while planning your summer holidays or have a chilled-out drink on a Friday after work. It is open during the day for coffee and stays open until very late.

DAY & NIGHT Colonial in style, with some exotic brushstrokes, palm trees and super-comfortable sun loungers, Balux Cafe Seaside, a beautifully organized beach resort, is the main attraction in Glyfada and its environs. Here, you can laze by the sea or the pool-side and order a hearty breakfast, snack or dessert, waiting until later to go up the restaurant for a pizza or even sushi, and then top it all off with an after-dinner cocktail (the Banana-rum-a is a must). Join in the fun around you or slip into the pool and become a kid again, playing around on the floating toys. This is summer in the city at its very best.

I n f o 58 Poseidonos Avenue, Glyfada • Tel. (+30) 210.894.0566 • Opens at 10:00 • Admission to the beach €8 on weekdays, €12 on weekends. G e t t i n g t h e r e Α1 and Α2 buses or Syntagma-Asklipio Voulas tram (Kolymvitirio stop).

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Info Alimos Marina • Tel. (+30) 210.988.02.82 Open 9:00-04:00

Getting there Tram Syntagma-Asklipio Voulas (Edem stop)

Island: the essence of the athens riviera When brothers Chrysanthos and Spyros Panas took over the bar at the Vouliagmeni Sailing Club back in the early 1990s, they could not have imagined that they would be making history by laying the foundation stone of Island Club & Restaurant, the hottest spot on the Athens Riviera. What started out as a project fueled by youthful enthusiasm evolved into a signature brand. Eventually, the club moved to the location where it is today, attracting celebrities and jet-setters from Greece and around the world. Among its guests have been Meryl Streep, Hugh Jackman, designer Valentino and Bruce Willis, to name but a few.

Info 27th kilometer of the Athens–Sounio road, Varkiza • Tel. (+30) 210.965.3563-4 • www.islandclubrestaurant.gr

Getting there Approximately one hour by taxi from central Athens.

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What makes Island such a hot spot, other than its amazing location? There are many answers to that question: Thursday’s Jungle Nights, for instance, with matching music and cocktails; the delicious brunch and snacks at C-Lounge; the Island Shop concept store with its collectible Vilebrequin swim suits and the hand-painted t-shirts from American artist Patricia Field; the sushi menu; the signature cocktails; or maybe the creative Mediterranean dishes by award-winning chef Nikos Skliras. And remember, if you’re doing Athens by sea, there’s a handy floating dock where you can tie up your boat.

Party LIKE

the Greeks For Greeks, the “paraliaki,” or coastal stretch, has always been associated with partying until the wee hours at its myriad live music clubs, or “bouzouktzidika.” Don’t be fooled, though; you won’t find traditional bouzouki music here. These nightspots feature hip-gyrating Greek pop, whether in its more authentic macho version – where admirers buy and throw basket-loads of flowers at the singers – or in a lighter vein, such as the music being performed this season by pop icon Sakis Rouvas at the venue known as Estate Seaside at Akrotiri. At all of the clubs, you’ll find ample proof of the innate ability of the Greeks to momentarily overcome (or ignore) all the difficulties, anxieties and burdens of everyday life. This escape doesn’t come cheap; at €15 for a drink at the bar, the minimum consumption fee is rather steep. The venues with the biggest names are invariably packed, with everyone clamoring for a front-row seat. At present, the clubs are open only on Friday and Saturday nights; the crisis forbids full operation.

Info Akrotiri Lounge, 5 Vassileos Georgiou B5, Aghios Kosmas • Tel. (+30) 210.985.9147, 210.985.9147 • www.akrotirilounge.gr

Getting there Syntagma-Asklipio Voulas tram (2nd Aghios Kosmas stop)

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The promenade on the Kavouri coast (a 15-minute walk from end to end) is arguably the most romantic spot along the Athens Riviera. Generations of amorous city folk have pledged their undying love while gazing at the view of Kavouronisi (a tiny islet between the two bays that you can actually walk to through the shallow waters). Megalo Kavouri Beach is well shaded with pines and has thatch umbrellas, a well-tended playground and two beach bars. Take the time to look for Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest surviving ancient carriage road, discovered by archaeologists last summer, or just relax with a massage at the Divani Athens Spa & Thalasso Center at Divani Apollon Palace & Thalasso Hotel (10 Aghiou Nikolaou, Mikro Kavouri, tel +30 210.891.1100), equipped with the largest thalassotherapy pool in Greece.

Getting there 115, 117, 122 buses or the A1 and A2 buses, which run more regularly and drop you off at Voula Plage B, just a 20-minute walk from Kavouri.

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ÂŠ GEORGE TSAFOS, PERIKLES MERAKOS

THE PERFECT STROLL

RIVIE R A HIGHLIGHTS

Esperidon Square

Glyfada is a popular meeting point for Athens’ youngsters.

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TEE OFF! Nymphon Square

Ark all-day café-restaurant

It was the early 1960s, and Greece was taking great pains to improve its tourism profile, when one of the world’s leading golf course architects, Donald Harradine, agreed to design what is still the Greek capital’s only golf course, with 18 holes over 53 hectares. Almost every celebrity Greece has ever produced has set foot on its greens, including perhaps most famously the former prime minister and president Constantine Karamanlis. The facilities also include two training courses, two tennis courts, changing rooms, a bar, a restaurant and a pro shop for equipment rental.

Info

Glyfada Little Miami

Terma K. Karamanli, Glyfada • Tel. (+30) 210.894.68.75 • www.glyfadagolfgardens.gr • Open Tuesday-Sunday 7:30 to sundown, Monday 13:00 to sundown. Reservations necessary. • Admission costs €50 for 18 holes, €30 for nine holes.

Getting there Α3,140 buses or Syntagma-Asklipio Voulas tram (Paralia Glyfadas and Paleo Dimarhio stops)

Outgoing, and with a somewhat American air (hardly surprising considering a US Army base operated out of nearby Elliniko for 40 years), Glyfada is the capital of Athens’s southern suburbs; it’s the place to go shopping, spend hours over a coffee, or soak up the sun on its beach. Why not stroll along the marina, making a fashion statement in your designer flip-flops? The town developed in the inter-war years and was named after the brackish (“glyfo” in Greek) drinking water drawn from its wells. However, it is mainly its interaction with the American base that shaped its modern character. This is where Coca-Cola and fast food first became a Greek thing, too.

Getting there A1, A2, A3, 124, 140 buses or Syntagma-Asklipio Voulas tram (Platia Vergoti and Paralia Glifadas stops).

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THE COSMOPOLITAN BEACH .

A heady blend of pine forest and sea; a central road named after Apollo, the god of music and light; a series of small, tucked-way coves for private dips and, of course, Astir Beach: this is Vouliagmeni and the Lemos peninsula. For nearly 60 years, this is where Athens’ most cosmopolitan beach has sat, gazing benevolently over the Saronic Gulf from its prime vantage point. At this well-organized beach, you can book a sun lounger or a spa appointment, avail yourself of the special amenities at the Platinum Lounge, surf on the free WiFi, or take part in any number of water sports at the Astir Ski Club – including wake-boarding, ringos, paragliding, paddle boarding and much, much more. There’s also an outdoor non-smoking area.

Info 40 Apollonos, Vouliagmeni • Tel. (+30) 210.890.1619 • www.astir-beach.com • Admission costs €18 Monday-Friday, €28 on weekends and holidays.

Getting there 115, 117 and 122 buses (Lemos stop).

Seaside Playground for all

Info Varkiza coastal road • Tel. (+30) 210.451.1888 • www.varkizaresort.gr • Admission costs €5 on weekdays (with a complimentary lounger) and €6 on weekends (loungers cost an additional €5).

Getting there 115, 117 and 122 buses (Fournos stop).

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Stretching over 10 hectares and offering more than 20 activities as well as plenty of options for coffee, food and drinks, the main beach of the seaside town of Varkiza is rightly described as a beach park. In addition to hosting wellness and beauty seminars, the beach is the site for concerts and DJ sets, windsurfing and surfing lessons and other water sports, aqua aerobics and other fitness activities. As if that’s not enough, this summer it’s also welcoming a great new arrival: Holy Spirit, Glyfada’s most popular cocktail bar, has been given its own space in the resort and will be serving its guests right at the water’s edge.

NO LOUNGERS Try to get to Althea early in the day in order to avoid the crowds and the hot midday sun. If you’re driving, turn right at the first signpost for Althea after the Church of Aghia Marina and park there. Heading down the steps, you’ll come to one of the loveliest beaches in Attica, with soft sand and crystal-clear bathing waters. In the late afternoon, the overhanging rocks offer perfect shade.

Getting there If you’re coming by bus, the KTEL Intercity bus departs every hour from 6:30 to 19:30 (last return to Athens is 21:00) from the main entrance of the Pedion tou Areos Park in downtown Athens. The trip takes approximately 2 hours and tickets cost €5.70.

RIVIE R A HIGHLIGHTS

GO SOUTH FOR SHOPPING G LY f a D A ’ S F a s h i o n m i l e i s m o r e Fl o r i d a t h a n At h e n s

“This is the ‘Miami’ of Attica,” says a sunburned bartender with a Greek-American accent, at a popular bar-restaurant squeezed in among the boutiques in the heart of Glyfada shopping district, above Esperidon Square. He should know; he grew up in Miami. And he feels right at home here. After all, there’s even a shopping center named “The Florida Mall” in the area... Glyfada is like another planet. If you’re in the market for women’s clothing in every color of the rainbow, for platform shoes higher than those designed by Salvatore Ferragamo in the 1960s or oversized handbags, 114

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or men’s clothing for surfers or children’s outfits that are small replicas of stylish adult designs, then you’re in the right place. On Grigoriou Lambraki you’ll also find collections from Greek designers right alongside Italian, Spanish and Brazilian labels, with only the tram lines to keep them apart; there are also coffee shops, hair salons, opticians, and jewelry stores along the streets running parallel to the coastal road. This is strut-your-stuff territory. Girls with perfect tans, denim shorts, crop tops and long, wellgroomed hair, walk alongside boys in knee-length Bermuda shorts, with six-pack abs peek-

ing out from under designer t-shirts. Glyfada is the land of beautiful people, with their own summer dress code, enforced five months of the year. Putting aside Zara, H&M and Pull&Bear chain stores for a moment, Glyfada is the destination for women who want to stand out in a crowd. Here, fashion is over the top. What makes shopping in Glyfada really worthwhile is discovering boutiques you can’t find anywhere else, not in chic Kolonaki nor high-end Kifissia, or any shopping district in Athens for that matter. Like the abstractly designed Ensayar (55 Kyprou St. for men’s

clothing and 2Β Esperidon Sq. for women’s) for Moncler and Philipp Plein and sunglasses from Mykita. Along the same street, you’ll find Boutique 52 (52 Kyprou St.) with brands like Addicted to Paradise, Greek designers (Athina Korda, Stelios Koudounaris, Glamazons) as well as Christian Lacroix, Valentino and Just Cavalli. Their motto? Good clothes open all doors. At Boutique 55 (55 Kyprou St.), it’s all about new brands. At Soho-Soho (70 Kyprou), men’s and women’s clothes share space with books, jewelry and accessories just right for Mykonos, Paros, Spetses and other Greek islands. Or anywhere else, for that matter. Pick up items from Phillip Lim and Ancient Greek Sandals, Athena Procopiou, shoes by Brian Atwood and designers such as Jason Wu, John Varvatos and Rick Owens. Stop in at A La Mode (22 Grigoriou Lambraki & 47 Kyprou) for Miu Miu, Marni, Rick Owens, Spektre sunglasses, and jewelry by Angelo di Spirito Rosa. You go to Glyfada because Juicy loves Athens, with a colorful Juicy Couture boutique along the main drag (16 Grigoriou Lambraki & Angelou Metaxa). You’ll also come here for Authentic American Vintage (55 Kyprou) and for Hollister and Abercrombie & Fitch at One-0-One (3 Yiannitsopoulou). Greek designers prevail at Jet Black (74 Kyprou), black rules at Snatch (64 Kyprou) and for casual chic and boho, go to Joko (18 Dousmani). You can try out jewelry by minimalist designer Minas at Pogonatos Jewelry (33 Angelou Metaxa), alongside lesser-known designers. If you are in a hurry and can only check out two or three stores, look for Enny Monaco (41 Laodikis) with Alaia, Balmain, Christian Louboutin and Zac Posen; Zilly (51 Kyprou & Klemanso) for wrap-around dresses by Diane von Furstenberg, Isabel Marant and Alexander Wang; or Eponymo Via Kyprou (66 Kyprou) for Italian and American fashion (from Alberta Ferretti to Ralph Lauren). And when you’re finally done with shopping, head for an ice cream in Esperidon Square, or, better yet, in Vouliagmeni. - S A N DY T S A N TA K I

RIVIE R A HIGHLIGHTS

Seaside Dining From little-known treasures to elegant classics, the Athens Riviera has plenty of tavernas and restaurants that can bring you the sea on a plate. In the little-known category, the Hellenic Nautical Club of Egyptians, located on the Aghios Kosmas peninsula, is a gem that serves authentic Middle Eastern food at reasonable prices, right by the water. In the classic category, Ithaki at Lemos in Vouliagmeni has served its high-end cuisine to such celebrities as Athina Onassis and Leonardo DiCaprio. Another don’t-miss is Kastelorizo in Varkiza, an elegant restaurant with a beautiful view over the small harbor, and Psarou in Saronida, known for its pop esthetic and for its deliciously fresh fried whitebait and its shellfish prepared with loving care.

Info Hellenic Nautical Club of Greeks from Egypt, Aghios Kosmas • Tel. (+30) 210.981.85.25 • Ithaki, 28 Apollonos, Vouliagmeni • Tel. (+30) 210.896.37.47 • www.ithakirestaurantbar.gr • Kastelorizo, Poseidonos Avenue, Limanakia, Varkiza • Tel. (+30) 210.965.50.22 • www.kastelorizo.com.gr • Psarou, 46k of the Athens–Sounio road, Saronida • Tel. (+30) 22910.55171

CLASSIC BAKERIES The classic pit stop for Athenians wanting to grab a snack on their way to a day at the beach, the town of Varkiza is indelibly associated with one of the most historic bakeries in Attica, the Georgiadis Bakery, which has been selling bread, sesame rings and amazing piroshki at the same spot since 1957. If you’re put off by the lines here, try the Artopolis Bakery, which also enjoys a loyal following.

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Info Georgiadis, 98 Vas. Κonstantinou & 2 Afroditis • Tel. (+30) 210.897.5602 • Artopolis, Apollonos & 1 Areos • Tel. (+30) 210.897.3010

Getting there Bus 171 (Varkiza stop) or buses 115, 117 and 122 (Fournos stop).

RIVIE R A HIGHLIGHTS

Show-Stopper On the peak of Cape Sounion, at the southernmost tip of Attica, stands the temple of Poseidon, beside whose columns one has virtually a hang-glider’s view of the Saronic Gulf. The distinct promontory was also sacred to Athena, worshiped in a small sanctuary below the summit. A timeless navigational landmark, Sounion was vulnerable to the passing Persian fleet in 480 BC, which stopped long enough for the invaders to destroy the temples of both Poseidon (early 5th c. BC) and Athena (6th c. BC). The latter was rebuilt a decade later, while a new temple for Poseidon, designed by Athens’ “Theseion Architect”, arose ca. 444 BC. After Sounion was strengthened with a hilltop fortress in the late 5th c. BC, it became an important Attic border post and coast guard station, equipped with a rock-carved ship’s ramp for the drawing out and rapid launching of small naval craft. As Philip II, Alexander and their successors rose to power in the 4th and 3rd c. BC, Sounion was occupied by Macedonian troops. Under the Roman empire, the strong-

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hold lost much of its military significance, but still proved advantageous to a band of rebellious slaves (ca. 100 BC) temporarily on the lam from the silver/lead mines at nearby Lavrion. Sounion also became notorious as a pirate haven and later as a favorite stopover for early travelers and antiquarians—including Lord Byron, in the early 19th century, who left his name prominently carved into one of the Poseidon temple’s marble doorposts. For today’s visitors, just as for Byron, ancient Sounion should not be missed. This is one of the most inspiring, memorable sights in Greece. From the moment one first spies the tall elegant columns, while approaching Sounion along the sinuous Attic coast, the ancient temple’s ruins elicit awe. On the sacred promontory’s summit, sea and sky stretch into the distance as far as the eye can see. Peace and quiet reign, the sound of the wind, even other visitors’ voices seem not to offend. This is the perfect place for streaky pink sunsets, evening calm, an ouzaki by the sea in a neighboring tavern.

Info

Located around 70k southwest of Athens. Accessible via the Attiki Odos and Lavriou Avenue or Poseidonos–Souniou avenues. Τickets to the archaeological site at €8. tips

The adjacent Lavrion district is also not to be missed. Essentially an open-air archaeological park, the area is rife with fascinating traces of ancient and more recent mining operations. Industrial artifacts are displayed in the Lavrion Archaeological Museum, and minerals in a quaint museum in the former early-modern mining village of Aghios Konstantinos. The sea is right there and there’s a;ways time for a swim. There are organized beaches at Sounio, Legrena and Harakas. In an area called Kape, you’ll find several quiet and more private spots.

©PERIKLES MERAKOS

*Information regarding bus routes was drawn from telematics.oasa.gr. Download the app on Google Play and App Store.

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The Lemos promontory floats in the Saronic Gulf like an exotic island.

A S TIR PAL ACE

Cosmopolitan Legend Tranquil, chic, and occupying a beautiful peninsula all on its own, this gem of a resort offers a quick and easy getaway from the Greek capital. BY Maria Coveou

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A still from one of Astir Palaceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advertising videos, featuring Bond girl Tonia Sotiropoulou.

Living room corner of a bungalow suite, overlooking its private deck and pool.

1. In the summer, the exteriors and interiors of the bungalow suites form a seamless continuum. 2. The Master Bedroom in the Presidential Suite, which overlooks Astir’s private marina.

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3. Detail of the stylish lobby at The Westin. 4. Greek delicacies offered as part of the sumptuous breakfasts at Arion’s Alia Brasserie.

5. Arion Spa thalassotherapy pool and deck, overlooking the Saronic Gulf.

7. The Japanese ritual bath in the Cleopatra Suite in Arion’s Spa, available to hotel guests and visitors alike.

6. The Westin’s private beach; in the background, gazebos for extra privacy.

8. Private dining on the deck of one of Arion’s legendary bungalows.

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ÂŠ Maria Coveou

midst a forest of pine trees on the hilly promontory of Lemos, overlooking bobbing yachts and surrounded by a handful of luxurious residencies, hides Astir Palace, a timeless landmark of the Athenian Riviera. Located in the laid-back, upmarket suburb of Vouliagmeni, 25k from the city center, the Cape of Lemos was a favorite getaway with Athenian weekenders long before the existence of a resort in the area. They would prepare picnic baskets and squeeze themselves into public buses to reach the cape, lured by its turquoise waters, its sandy beaches and the shadowy trees. It was Astir Palace, however, built in the late 1950s, that would transform the area into the elite destination it is today. Athenians do not arrive on buses anymore, but in luxurious cars or yachts, in order to enjoy the perks of one of the finest, if not the finest, organized beaches in Attica, and indulge in the first-rate pampering offered by the nearby five-star resort. Back in the mid-50s, Greece was still trying to recover from the devastation of both World War II and the subsequent Civil War, and the state was looking for ways to jump-start the economy by promoting the country as a tourist destination. At the same time, an emerging upper class began looking for recreational outlets and idyllic summer vacation spots near the capital. The government took notice, and started planning for high-end holiday accommodation. With the backing of the National Bank of Greece, a luxurious tourist complex by the name of Astir (meaning star) was designed. It included hotels, bungalows, gardens, restau-

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rants, recreation centers and playgrounds, a marina for private boats and sports and bathing facilities. The vision began to take shape with the transformation of the beach. Astir Beach, a stone’s throw from the resort and open to the public, was planned by architects Emmanuel Vourekas, Pericles Sakellarios and Prokopios Vassiliades. It opened in 1959, featuring elegant changing rooms and innovative canopies of white sailcloth resembling seagulls. Under the watchful eye of the god Apollo Zoster, whose 6th century B.C. temple was discovered in the 1920s and still graces the beach, the 300 meter-long sandy stretch was turned into a “Riviera,” catering to the aesthetics of an emerging cosmopolitan crowd. It became an instant favorite among Athenian socialites who began to flock to it – soon followed by local and international celebrity guests. The bungalows (the famous “cabanas”) were erected next, in 1961, featuring a secluded private beach inside the complex, so VIPs could enjoy the sun away from prying eyes. It was on this beach in 1969 that Brigitte Bardot stunned fellow sunbathers by appearing in a tiny pink bikini, wooden platform shoes and a massive sunhat. The bungalows, smartly designed by architect Kostas Voutsinas, were intentionally hidden among the pine trees to offer privacy, yet allowed guests to enjoy great sea views from their verandas. These bungalows were stylish, exclusive and not far away from the city center, and thus became second homes for wealthy Athenians. Many guests rented them for the entire summer season, and commuted back and forth to their jobs in the city. 6

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A S TIR PAL ACE

For those who wanted to socialize, the popular “Club House” – perched on a small hill among the cabanas and overlooking the sea – was the perfect spot. Nowadays, the restaurant Matsuhisa Athens operates in its place, serving unique fusion dishes by the renowned Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa on a fine veranda, which evokes a sense of traveling on the deck of a ship. As for lodging, the cabanas were completely renovated in 2008 with colonial-style interiors, minus the original kitchenettes, but retaining the same minimal exteriors featuring starch-white wood, pistachio-green trim and stone wall terraces.

aristocratic Arion (today Arion, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa) – again based on designs by architect Kostas Voutsinas – opened in 1967, north of the cabanas and right on the waterfront. Voutsinas created a building with an obtuse angle that allows all rooms overlooking the sea to enjoy panoramic views. Architects Emmanuel Vourekas, Antonis Georgiades and Konstantinos Dekavallas designed the interior, paying special attention to detail. They added an imperial marble staircase at the lobby and decorated it with works of art by preeminent Greek painters, like Gizis, Tsarouchis, Engonopoulos,

2. Members of the Kirov ballet on their day off after a demanding performance. 3. Nelson Mandela, a former guest of the resort, posing with Kostas Perakis, then maître d’hôtel. 4. John Wayne was one of the Hollywood stars that stayed at the complex’s cabanas.

5. Innovative canopies of white sailcloth imitating the flight of birds provided shade on Astir Beach in the ‘60s. 6. Singer Nana Mouskouri with Antonis Dimitrakakis (left) and Chronis Stergiopoulos, former managers of the hotels. 7. Former hotel manager Antonis Dimitrakakis standing next to Charlton Heston, a favorite celebrity among the staff. 8. Posing with a beautiful model.

The Temple of Apollo Zoster was discovered in the 1920s and still graces Astir Beach.

Built in the late fifties, Astir Palace spearheaded the efforts of a country still recovering from the trauma of war to establish itself as an upscale tourist destination.

In 1966, a waterski school – the first one in Greece – was added to the facilities’ list. It was operated by Grigoris Kasidokostas, the “Greek Steve McQueen” and later mayor of Vouliagmeni. Many members of wealthy Greek families, like Christina Onassis – the daughter of Aristotle Onassis – were taught how to ski during that time, away from intrusive paparazzis who were kept at bay by the resort’s security and its natural barriers. With the waterski school attracting more and more celebrity guests, Astir became one of the major Greek cosmopolitan hotspots. As demand for accommodation increased, it was time to realize the second part of the initial plan; a hotel. The

1. Cabana residents circa 1975 enjoying the Greek sun away from prying eyes.

Mitaras and Moralis (whose work still adorns the indoor swimming pool). In the Presidential Suite (the only one in the greater Athens area with a 360° view) they commisioned bespoke furniture from Saride’s, a famous designer of the period. Leaders who have stayed in this suite include Robert Kennedy, Jimmy Carter, Margaret Thatcher, François Mitterrand, Boris Yeltsin, Mikhail Gorbachev, Yasser Arafat and Nelson Mandela. Arion was renovated in 2004, blending contemporary and classic elements while preserving signature design features like the original marble staircase. Its rooms, extending across four floors, were also revamped and given more luxurious amenities, like opulent bathrooms and luxuriant

beds, to meet the needs of their exclusive clientele. Arion’s most attractive feature, however, remains its waterfront, directly accesible via an elevator from all floors. Recently updated as well, it features wooden decks with umbrellas, sun-loungers and enormous pillows for a literal and languid sinking-in – with or without the alcohol on offer at the Ski Bar. For a change of vistas, take a 50m walk along the sea towards the north of the resort to reach the complex’s second hotel, The Westin Athens. Another beguiling waterfront awaits you here, with its own enclosed and private sandy beach, its wooden decks with colorful gazebos for a sense of playful concealment and extra privacy, and an

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Olympic-sized swimming pool. The Westin, which was first called Nafsika, was designed by Arion’s team of architects and was built in 1980. Built into the rock to blend in with the environment, it went on to become an emblem of ‘70s architecture. Its lobby is on the top floor and the rooms are located in tiers below, all of them enjoying uninterrupted views. If Arion was stern and aristocratic, Nafsika was hip and trendy, featuring a playful ‘70s color scheme. Its enormous swimming pool, a rare facility for its time, attracted socialites who came to hang out, mingle and be noticed. Glamorous pool parties were held here with celebrities cavorting till dawn, and even today it remains a favorite venue for weddings and various corporate events. Like Arion, The Westin was also renovated in 2004; it was given new furnishings and luxury amenities like the sumptuous Heavenly Beds® found in all the suites. In 2008, an impressive undulating canopy, resting on white columns, was added to the entrance, greeting the hotel guests with a further touch of class. Astir Palace undeniably owes its mythical status to the celebrities that fell in love with it and honored it by returning again and again. An example is Aristotle Onassis, the Greek tycoon, who was, it is said, loud in laughter and very generous with his tips. Among the Hollywood stars who stayed at the cabanas and the suites were Charlton Heston (very polite and a great fan of Greece, according to staff members), Tony Curtis, John Wayne, Paul Newman, Frank Sinatra (who had to use the kitchen doors to get to his room, in order to avoid his fans), and Anthony Quinn. Other celebrities who graced the Astir with their presence include the Beatles, singer Nana Mouskouri, composer Vangelis Papathanassiou and dancer Rudolf Nureyev. Astir Palace continues to attract famous guests and is still synonymous with VIP glamor; for many, staying here is a matter of prestige. For others, it is a matter of loyalty and, occasionally, even obsession; there are those who would rather stay at a different complex altogether than change facilities within the resort. Astir Palace remains an emblem of the good life, a resort revered for its fine architecture and envied for its unique location, far from the center and yet so near – permitting its guests to experience both the benefits of city life and the sweet idleness of an island retreat. 126

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Astir Palace remains an emblem of the good life, a resort revered for its fine architecture and envied for its unique location.

The Olympic-sized swimming pool of The Westin Athens.

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The Experience You will never run out of excuses for visiting the resort

accommodation

Child-friendly

The Arion, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa offers 123 deluxe rooms including 16 suites, among them a presidential and an ambassador suite, as well as 58 bungalows (most with sea views), 12 of which feature private pools. The Westin Athens offers 162 rooms including 9 suites, with uninterrupted views of the sea. It operates from May to October and hosts several conferences.

Kids of all ages can park their parents at one of the resort’s facilities and come and have some fun at Astir’s Kids Club located between The Westin Athens and Arion Resort & Spa. Experienced staff offer a series of stimulating activities and programs whose goal is to both entertain and educate. Organized family activities and sports summer camps are also held.

facilities Both hotels and bungalows are connected, so all guests can enjoy the facilities of the entire resort: three private beaches, outdoor pools, water sports, fitness centers in both hotels, tennis and basketball courts, a mini-soccer court, shops at The Westin Athens’ front entrance, and a hair salon at Arion Resort & Spa.

Rejuvenation Arion Resort & Spa’s spa services are offered at an extra cost to hotel guests and visitors alike. The facilities are spread across 1,000m2 and include an indoor heated thalassotherapy pool, a sauna and steam room, undisturbed views to the sea from the pool and the veranda, and an extensive health and beauty treatment menu to suit all needs and styles.

Gourmet dining

Business & pleasure

Six restaurants are open to both guests and visitors, offering a range of options to satisfy all palates. The resort’s pride is the Matsuhisa Athens, perched on the resort’s most scenic location and serving the Japanese fusion dishes of legendary chef Nobu Matsuhisa. Alia Brasserie, in the lobby of Arion Resort & Spa, is open year-round for sumptuous breakfasts; from October to May it also offers lunch and dinner. Taverna 37 (May to October) on Arion Resort & Spa’s waterfront is a favorite meeting spot for lunch and serves exclusively Greek dishes. Arion Resort & Spa’s Grill Steak House (May to October), on a natural veranda overlooking the sea, serves prime meat cuts and an extensive wine selection. At The Westin Athens’ Kymata, near the swimming pool, guests can enjoy breakfast and a range of Mediterranean dishes for lunch, while a buffet is available on weekends. Finally, the award-winning Galazia Hytra (May to October), on The Westin Athens’ beautiful terrace, specializes in creative flavors made with selected Greek products.

Astir Palace offers comprehensive conference facilities for hosting any type of event. Arion Resort & Spa has 5 meeting rooms, 3 boardrooms and 1 ballroom – the Alexander – which boasts chandeliers for that extra touch. The Westin Athens provides 3 meeting rooms, 2 boardrooms, 1 congress hall – the Cosmos (able to host up to 600 guests) – and a 1,000 m2 space, the Pergola, ideal for weddings, exhibitions and other occasions.

Private marina The Astir Marina, located right next to the resort, can accommodate up to 103 pleasure boats. Its depth ranges from 2.5m to 5.5m. It operates 24/7 and offers entry lights, power and water supply, telephone boxes, first aid station and car parking, as well as cleaning and laundry services. Special rates apply for Astir Palace guests. www.astir-marina.com

Info 40 Apollonos Street, Vouliagmeni • Tel. (+30) 210.890.2000 • www.astir-palace.com • email: astir.reservations@astir.gr

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DOWNTOWN

In a Nutshell

The so-called historic center of Athens – the area around the Acropolis – is really not that big. But it is remarkable in that the different neighborhoods that comprise it each have their own distinct character and yet together form a vivid mosaic of the Greek capital’s history and contemporary culture. BY MARIA KOR ACHAI © SHUTTERSTOCK

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Plaka

The Storyteller 2

1. Plaka, with its mansions, old churches, ancient monuments and colorful courtyards is commonly held to be the prettiest part of Athens.

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here are no cars on the streets of central Plaka. In the only pedestrianized neighborhood in Athens, people get more around on foot, get to know each other and shout out “kalimera” (good morning) along the way, as they would in a village. Culturally, it is nothing like a village, however. It is a cosmopolitan pocket in the middle of the city with an extroverted air that is, of course, mainly due to the large number of tourists it receives. Its architecture is a good reason to keep your camera handy. The skilled builders who came here in the mid-19th century from the Cycladic island of Anafi to build King Otto’s palace were also responsible for constructing the homes of the rich and the nearly rich. By day, they erected mansions with ornate stonework; by night, they built humble homes for themselves and their families in their part of the district: Anafiotika, high above the others, looking up at the Acropolis. This is why Plaka is such a fascinating mosaic today, with village-like corners and pretty flower-filled courtyards mixed with elegant specimens of neoclassical architecture. Few of the old working class families still live here. Most of the houses have been bought up by wealthy Athenians from other parts of the city, while many belong to the Ministry of Culture. Others are being rented out on Airbnb to tourists looking for a more “local” experience. Today, tourists and Athenians from every part of the capital come to the city’s most attractive neighborhood, either to enjoy a night out or for the simple pleasure of watching the sun go down over the Acropolis.

2. The Horologion of Andronikos Kyrrhestes, also known as Tower of the Winds. 3. The beauty of Anafiotika is in the details. 4. Plaka’s cafés and tavernas are all about atmosphere.

STOPS Tower of the Winds The world’s oldest meteorological-horological station (Aeolou & Pelopida) Medrese The ruins of an 18th century Muslim theological school (Pelopida) Lysicrates Monument A choragic monument (erected by a patron of the arts) from 335 BC, and one of the most beautiful still surviving in the city (Lysicrates Square) Pavlos & Alexandra Kanellopoulos Museum Exhibits dating from prehistoric times to the 19th century (Panos & 12 Theorias) Museum of Greek Folk Art For the time being, only the building at 22 Panos St. is open, showcasing a collection of pre-industrial tools (www.melt.gr/en) Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments A fascinating collection in the exhibition space, as well as an interesting gift shop (1–3 Diogenous, www.instruments-museum.gr)

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INSIDER TIPS The view from the top of Anafiotika is breathtaking and a favorite with teens who make the climb to watch the sunset.

The loveliest cafe-bistro of Plaka is Yiasemi (23 Mnisikleous). Check out its big table of homemade sweets, baked fresh daily.

Cine Paris (22 Kydathineon) is considered one of the best open-air cinemas in the world.

At DotAhart (12 Afroditis), two young women make modern pottery and hold classes on the weekend where you can make your own (they’ll send it to you after it has been fired).

On one of the main streets for souvenirs, you can also find Greek design selections at Forget Me Not (100 Adrianou). The Scorpions bought the outfits that appear in their “Wind of Change” video clip from Remember Fashion (79 Adrianou), a legendary punk and alternative clothing store thas has been around since 1978.

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As you near his studio at 6 Erechtheos, you’ll hear Alexis Papahadzis at work crafting dainty jewelry that tell a story. Pay close attention to the drawings on the earrings: they’re miniatures of larger art works.

Klepsidra (named after the street it’s on) is an old-school yet hip kafenio with a loyal following: 20-somethings gather to drink beer and couples romance on the steps. Look up and you’ll see the Acropolis. Also, check out the tiny vintage bookshop next door. Gastro pub Food Sins (1 Filomousou Square) serves modern versions of classic Greek dishes, like crunchy moussaka, inside-out souvlaki and grilled Greek salad.

The Fine Wines liquor store (3 Lysikratous) hosts both planned and spontaneous tastings, with Greek labels and made-to-match meze. In contrast to most meze tavernas in Plaka that serve wine in bulk, Mono Restaurant (4C Benizelou Paleologou) gives you a choice of 120 bottled wines, mainly Greek, to go with its tasty Mediterranean dishes. Grab a table outside for people-watching or in the courtyard at the back for more privacy.

1. Feels like the Cyclades: Anafiotika neighborhood. 2. Mono Restaurant 3. The view from Cine Paris steals the scene.

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1. Photo-op at Hadrian’s Library (AD 132) 2. Treasure hunting at Avissynias Square.

Monastiraki ΤΗE MELTING POT

ooking down from the hotel roof gardens around Monastiraki Square, the people look like busy ants, with the Acropolis standing watch above them as it has for the past 2,500 years, stressing the contrast between the ephemeral and the permanent. Look closer at the people; some are waiting for friends, others are grabbing a bite to eat, others are busking, some are peddling trinkets and others are just passing through. As in every commercial center, every melting pot of cultures and habits, in Monastiraki there is harmony in diversity. Ifestou Street, the flea market, is where every tourist goes for souvenirs, t-shirts and shoes as well as gifts, beads, jewelry and other knick-knacks. Avissynias Square, near its bottom end, is an open-air antique emporium known to bygone Athenians as the “Yussuroum,” after the renowned Jewish family of second-hand clothing traders that set up shop here in the late 19th century. Following that family’s lead, other

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antique shops moved in; they are now being run by the second and third generation. If you keep a sharp eye out, you may dig up a a few treasures at the big “oriental” bazaar on Sundays. Taking the side streets off central Athinas will bring you either to Psyrri or to Aghias Irinis Square. Psyrri is an old neighborhood that exudes boho charm. It is well known for its workshops, artists’ studios and vintage stores. Come late afternoon, the cafés and bars put out wooden chairs and tables for the throngs of young people that descend for cheap beer and strong spirits. On the opposite side of Athinas, Aghias Irinis Square (surrounding the church of the same name) is Athens’ hippest hipster hangout. It’s abuzz all day and all night long, its pleasant cafés, bars and eateries doing brisk business. It’s a great place to take a break and watch the world go by, or to grab a snack to go: from falafel and souvlaki to authentic Italian gelato, you can find it here.

POINTS OF INTEREST Panaghia Pantaναssa The church of the long-gone 10th c. abbey that gave Monastiraki (small monastery) its name. Tzisdarakis Mosque An Ottoman mosque (built in 1759) on Monastiraki Square that now houses the folk pottery annex of the Museum of Greek Folk Art. Center of Hellenic Tradition A charming venue at 36 Pandrossou that takes you back to a bygone era.

Past and present mix at Monastiraki Square.

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INSIDER TIPS Experience the atmosphere of mid-20th century Athens at Café Avissinia, known for its lively weekend Greek music shows. The food is mainly northern Greek and the clientele is loyal. “We have patrons who met here, got married and now come with their children,” says owner Nikolas Touros. (7 Kynetou, Avissynias Sq) Take the well-hidden elevator up to Couleur Locale to reach one of the most beautiful rooftop venues in Athens, complete with an Acropolis view. The blue neon sign at the bar creates a hip party feel at night. (3 Normanou)

Go exotic with the fantastic cocktails prepared by the bartenders at Baba Au Rum. (6 Kleitiou) Go to the source for a hotout-of-the-oven koulouri bread and sesame-seed ring. Koulouri tou Psyrri has been supplying Athens’ street vendors since 1960. (23 Karaiskaki) The rooftop bar restaurant of The Zillers hotel is cozy and elegant, with a vertical garden with 2,000 plants, an Acropolis view and delicious Mediterranean cuisine. (54 Mitropoleos) At Tailor Made, the coffee hotspot that made Aghias Irinis trendy, you’ll find eclectic brews and fresh desserts. Consider yourself lucky if you find a table. (2 Aghias Irinis Sq)

School Pizza Bar serves the best pizza in the downtown area, and their menu also includes Greek-inspired recipes. (8 Aghias Irinis Sq) The backyard of the Six d.o.g.s. bar and live music venue is a wonderful spot at night, a large garden space developed (surrounded by a cluster of apartment buildings) that attracts a hip crowd with its lovely cocktails. (6-8 Avramiotou) The Godfather could have been filmed in Cosa Nostra, an authentic Italian restaurant with checkered tablecloths, photos of famous mafiosi on the wall and jazz classics on the jukebox. (3 Aghias Theklas)

Looking for some peace and quiet in the early evening? in the neoclassical building that houses the Vryssaki Art Space you can enjoy an art or photography exhibition, followed by a glass of delicious cold chocolate from the homey rooftop cafe. (16 Vrysakiou) Guadeloupe stands out among the other vintage shops in Psyrri. It’s an exotic paradise where great finds are easy to come across. (12 Protogenous) The multipurpose Metamatic: Taf venue, located in the interior courtyard of a 19th-century Athenian home, serves beers from Greek microbreweries, favors jazz and puts on art shows. (5 Normanou)

1. Mixing up a cool cocktail at Six d.o.g.s. 2. Aghias Irinis Square was where Athenians used to buy their plants. Aged 83, Pavlos is the last remaining florist. 3. In recent years, the square has developed into the city’s hippest hipster hangout.

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Hotel Herodion, 4 Rovertou Galli str. Acropolis,117 42 Athens for reservations T:+30 210 9236832, pointa@herodion.gr • www.acropolispoint.com • https://el-gr.facebook.com/acropolispoint Daily from 19:00 to 1:00 from May to October

Thiseio

Time-lapse

hether you ’re travelling on foot or by Segway, bicycle or tourist train, this ultimate promenade connects you to the city’s most important archaeological sites via a cobbled pedestrian road flanked by tall trees and listed gems of neoclassical, eclectic and art deco architecture. One of the most expensive residential streets in Europe, Dionysiou Areopagitou is a snapshot of ancient Athens, running from the Temple of Olympian Zeus, past the Theater of Dionysus, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the Acropolis and its museum, and to the entrance of the Pnyx, the hill where ancient Athenians came to air their views and griev-

ances. The extension of Dionysiou Areopagitou is Apostolou Pavlou, a buzzing stretch of street artists and peddlers. You can buy handmade jewelry, vintage posters and books by ancient philosophers. You can get a henna tattoo and a hair wrap, or sit for a quick portrait. This is Thiseio, one of the most touristy areas in the city, with dozens of cafes, tavernas and souvenir shops. To really appreciate it, visit in the evening when the hubbub has died down and you can soak in the view of the Acropolis at sunset. But if hubbub is what you’re after, Adrianou is a lively stretch of cafes and tavernas overlooking the metro tracks and the Stoa of Attalos beyond.

1. Any way you choose to experience it, Dionysiou Areopagitou is a beautiful and fascinating promenade.

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2. The National Observatory of Athens offers tours of its historic 1846 building during the day and at night.

DOWNTOWN

Street musicians play something for everyone.

POINTS OF INTEREST The Athenian Agora and its museum, Pnyx and Philopappou Hills, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the Sanctuary of Asclepius... It’s all here: Turn back to page 52 for our brief guide to Ancient Athens.

Melina Mercouri Cultural Center This former 19th c. hat factory has been turned into a museum highlighting the traditional Karagiozis shadow-puppet theater. (66 Irakleidon)

Hill of the Nymphs Also known as the Observatory Hill, it is frequented by stargazers (who bring their own telescopes) and by tai chi and yoga groups tapping into the vibe. A visit to the National Odservatory itself, the oldest scientific institution in Greece (1842) is not to be missed (www.noa.gr, tel +30 210.349.01.2)

Bernier-Eliades Gallery Since 1999, one of Athens’ foremost contemporary art galleries. (11 Eptachalkou) Herakleidon Museum Dedicated to both art and science, with lots of activities and educational workshops for children. (16 Irakleidon)

INSIDER TIPS

The open-air Cine Thision.

You 'll feel as though you can touch the Acropolis from the rooftop of AthensWas Hotel.

Strofi is an old-school luxury restaurant serving Greek and Mediterranean classics with VIP discretion. The view of the Acropolis from the rooftop dining area is spectacular. (25 Rovertou Galli)

Mexican street food and Greek classics meet at The Sowl, a multipurpose venue designed to pay homage to the original architecture of its 19th-century neoclassical address. (10 Irakleidon)

Κuzina offers elegant rooftop dining with with a wonderful view. Creative Greek dishes are courtesy of acclaimed chef Aris Tsanaklidis. Reservations a must. (9 Adrianou)

Underdog is a micro-roastery with baristas who have won accolades at international competitions. Try the espresso tonic to see why. Other pluses include the long list of beers from around the world and the delicious brunch. (8 Irakleidon)

Catch a movie at the open-air Thision Cinema – one of the loveliest in the world – but try not to be distracted by the sight of the floodlit Acropolis. (7 Apostolou Pavlou) The modern rooftop restaurant of AthensWas Hotel serves Greek dishes inspired by French cuisine and Japanese fusion. (5 Dionysiou Areopagitou)

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The courtyard at Steki tou Ilia is a favorite with locals for its juicy lamb chops and honest Greek fare. (5 Eptachalkou) The cooperative behind Café 6 in Thiseio has unearthed long-forgotten dessert recipes and small local producers. The space looks like home, with furniture and objects salvaged from the streets or donated by their owners. (21 Trion Ierarchon)

DOWNTOWN

1. Greeks firmly believe that there’s always more space to put a table and chair. 2. A touch of greenery on Olympiou pedestrianized street. 3. Athenian apartments almost all have a balcony, large or small. 2

Koukaki

UP-AND-COMING

few moments only take you from the tourist part of Makryianni Street and the Acropolis metro station through the looking glass into the cozy and familiar neighborhood of Koukaki. There are no souvenir shops on Veikou Street; just bitter-orange trees, apartment buildings that went up in the 1960s and ’70s, a smattering of landmark neoclassical edifices from the ’30s and just enough cafes and bars to keep the area alive and the locals here, against the magnetic pull of downtown Athens. It may not be much to look at, but if you spend a few hours exploring Koukaki, you’ll realize that its residents are very much in love with their neighborhood. They put care into it and insist that they would never trade it with another. “When I was a kid, each family was responsible for taking care of a sapling. Now we’ve grown up together,” says Venetia, a Koukaki native, as she stands under “her” tree. 144

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With no shortage of greenery, and blessed with great public transport connecting it to the nearby city center, Koukaki tends to be favored by families, young couples, artists and students (Panteion University is just a couple of stops down Syngrou Avenue). If you want to get a feel of how life rolls for the locals, take a walk down the two main pedestrian streets, Olympiou and Drakou, that form the area’s core: They’re lined with cafes and bars, and busy almost all hours of the day. The psychological boundary of the neighborhood, where the noise and traffic begins, is the former Fix brewery. The industrial edifice was built in 1893, rebuilt in the 1950s and shut down in the late 1970s. Now, after an adventurous refurbishment, it is ready to become the new home for the National Museum of Contemporary Art, giving us one more reason to visit Koukaki.

DOWNTOWN

1. The vintage look defines Monsieur Barbu. 2. Ephrosyno’s Fabrika restaurant. 3. Bel Ray. 4. Krina Vronti, owner of Athena Design Workshop.

POINT Emotions Museum of Childhood Learning about yourself; for kids and adults (7 Karatza & Tsami Karatasou, www.mce.gr) STATE OF CONCEPT Greece’s first non-profit art gallery (19 Botsari Tousa, www.stateofconcept. org)

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INSIDER TIPS An oenologist and chef joined forces to create Ephrosyno’s Fabrika (34 Anastasiou Zinni), a friendly, post-industrial restaurant that focuses on fresh, standout ingredients from all over Greece. Bestsellers include the liver and the bunless burger. Guarantee (41 Veikou) has been making amazing sandwiches with various fillings – and it’s all fresh – for 28 years. Veikou 6: Handmade jewelry and accessories by Greek designers are sold in a beautiful neoclassical building with boho chic decor.

Let your nose guide you to Roma’s Pizzeria (77 Dimitrakopulou), a family-run business with authentic Italian pizza baked in a wood oven. One of the loveliest cafe-bistros in Athens, Lotte (2 Tsami Karatasou & Misaraliotou) is about homemade sweets, jazz and revamped rebetika, and an artsy crowd. The vintage dining room of Monsieur Barbu (59 Falirou) is known for its amazing brunch, burgers and cocktails. For a healthier option, order a piece of homemade pie and a glass of real lemonade.

At Mikri Venetia (15 Olympiou), you will have a small but eclectic choice of tweaked dishes like carbonara with Cretan sausage, all made with excellent local produce. Bel Ray (88 Falirou & Olympiou) started out as a carwash and now is a popular hangout with long tables you share with others. Order the croquet-madame for brunch and cocktails in the evening. Alternative souvenirs that tell fabulous stories about Athens and more are what you find at Athena Design Workshop (30 Parthenonos).

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SUMME R IN THE CIT Y

My Hilton Escape Quest The largest swimming pool and the most impressive rooftop restaurant and bar in Athens combine to give you that getaway feeling on a hot summer day. BY M e lo dy M av r o g i a n n i

ot yet 7 am and I’m already beginning to feel the heat of the day slowly swirling its way into my life as it dances around me, announcing that it’s here to stay. But that’s alright. I know exactly what to do. I dig out a couple of swimsuits, my favorite sarong and sandals, sunglasses and a pretty outfit that I can adapt from daywear into nightwear by adding a few key accessories to give it that touch of glamor. I have an all-day plan, and it doesn’t involve boat tickets, tedious lines or lengthy journeys of any kind. It begins as I step out of the elevator and approach the Hilton Athens swimming pool, passing by the Oasis Bar and Grill, thankfully open from 8am. I select the perfect chaise longue, where I intend to lavishly lounge the hot hours away, sipping an icy coffee or an invigorating fruit and vegetable smoothie. I love that I am right in the center of Athens, yet I can relish the tranquility, coolness and polished allure of this welcome urban destination, which comes complete with the largest and deepest outdoor pool in the city (25m x 15m). When I get peckish, I’ll probably order my favorite Oasis salad of goat’s cheese, rocket leaves, mango, lettuce and tongue-tingling strawberry vinaigrette, although I’m always open to suggestions from executive chef Kostas Athanasiou, whose menu has often tempted me with its delectable pizza margherita or that classic poolside snack, the club sandwich – a simple dish that, nonetheless, when done right attests to any chef’s true culinary skills. The friendly staff, the laid-back yet polished décor, and the quietly elegant ambience will keep me there until I’m finally sure it’s time to shower and change back into my clothes, reluctantly leaving my happy pool-bunny existence behind. Usually, this is just the moment when I spot one or more of my

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friends as they arrive, coming to join me in the midst of my Hilton escape quest. We tend to start our time together by settling ourselves in at the Galaxy Bar & Restaurant on the Hilton’s iconic roof garden. From there, we can worship the stunning view of the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill graced with an unbelievable sunset backdrop bursting with violet, saffron, gold, blue and neon-pink hues. The feeling of bliss is enhanced by the fact that, by now, our fingers are dancing with anticipation on a frosty glass of perfectly chilled, crisp wine - or, if I’m really celebrating self-indulgence day, I might order the zingy and uniquely flavored Honeymoon cocktail, with ginger and rhubarb. Either drink is the perfect accompaniment for what starts coming our way as the sky turns into a glittering blueblack canvas – our carefully placed order of mouthwatering starters, such as tuna tartar with a refreshing melon and pea soup (a palate-party of summer flavors), followed by a traditional wild greens pie with xinomizithra cheese from Naxos island. Other personal favorites include the octopus carpaccio or the excellent variety of fresh and flavorsome sushi rolls. And no matter what the main course, there’s always space for a sweet ending to a day like this – for me, it comes in the form of either the coconut mille-feuille with salted caramel sauce, or the pretty Valrhona chocolate cylinder with kumquat sauce. At home, I smile all the way to my bed, thinking about how special my day has been.

Info 46 Vasilissis Sofias Ave. • Tel. (+30) 210.728.1000 P o o l a d m i s s i o n €25 (Mon-Fri), €40 (Sat-Sun)

Kuzina A U N I Q U E g a s t r o n o m i c e x p e r ien c e , w i t h a v ie w ! In the historic center of Athens, just a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw from the Temple of Hephaestus and facing the breathtaking view of Acropolis, lies Kuzina. Kuzina constitutes the ultimate gastronomic destination in Athens, especially during summertime, as visitors have the opportunity to taste the summer menu of celebrated chef Aris Tsanaklidis, on the lovely Tarazza (rooftop) of a neoclassical building, in the candlelight and under the wonderful night sky of Athens, facing the impressive Parthenon. At our recent visit, we started our meal with our favorite dumplings, filled with feta cheese mousse, pistachio, sun dried tomatoes, olives and pomegranate sauce, followed by the new appetizer: tender pork cuts in a crispy tortilla, with picante sauce, caramelized onions & yogurt. All this was accompanied by a refreshing salad with crispy Greek bagel, tomato, capers, caper leaves, rocket, olives, cucumber and feta cheese.

For the main course, we chose an all-time classic, chef Aris Tsanaklidis famous pork, roasted in the oven for 12 hours, with lime, basil cream and a cucumber, turnip, coriander and pepper salad; the elegant risotto with pumpkin, corn, raisins, saffron and goat cheese; and the mysterious tagliolini with cuttlefish ink, shrimps and bisque with roasted pumpkin. Naturally, our meal was accompanied by freshly baked homemade bread, kneaded daily at Kuzina, using select ingredients. Our dinner ended with a delicate rose meringue with strawberry sorbet, whipped cream and marinated strawberries, leaving us with a fresh and sweet sensation. We are looking forward to our next visit at Kuzina, where we will have the chance to taste the rest of Aris Tsanaklidisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new dishes, and succumb once again to the ultimate gastronomic experience of Kuzina, on the magical Tarazza!

KUZINA: 9 Adrianou St, Thissio â&#x20AC;˘ Tel. (+30) 210.324.0133

taste GREECE IS

ATH EN S

caught in the net Blessed with the bounty of the Aegean and the toil of hundreds of fishermen who battle the sea for the day’s catch, Athens offers fresh seafood at great value for money. © Drawing by Thanos Zervos, 10 years old, from the collection of the Museum of Greek Children’s Art.

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AT THE SOURCE

THE FISH ΕXCHANGE A night at the Keratsini Central Fish Market, the major source of fresh supplies for market stalls, fishmongers and restaurants all over Attica.. BY A l e x a n d r a T z av e l l a PhotoS Dimitris Tsoumplek as

ΤΗΕ EARLY BIRD CATCHES THE FISH

It’s daybreak at the largest fish market in Greece, which has been operating in the suburb of Keratsini, just outside Pireaus, since 1966. Fishing boats arrive fully loaded with their hauls from the evening’s work in the Saronic Gulf and in the seas off southern Evia and the nearby islands of the Cyclades. Docking in the bay of Agios Georgios, the fishermen unravel their nets and sort out their catch, which is then packed into chilled cases and transferred by trolleys to the bidding area. A boat belonging to a fisherman named Pantelis returns with 1,500 pounds of sardines. A starting price is announced, and the action begins. Much like the sea, the market is unpredictable. On some days, those who buy early lament when prices begin to fall, while latecomers are often left with slim pickings in terms of quality product. But that’s just how a stock exchange works, isn’t it?

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The gates open around 2 am and some 120 fish traders and fishermen with permanent stalls in the auction hall take up their positions. From now until 7am, their thunderous voices can be heard hawking their merchandise. Their customers, around 600 wholesalers from across Attica, Viotia, and the Peloponnese, inspect the fish with the same meticulous diligence as one might expect from an art collector. As soon as they spot something theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re interested in, they give it a squeeze â&#x20AC;&#x201C; everyone knows that fresh good-quality fish is hard to the touch. Then they bring the fish close to their nose, looking purposely at the traders, before taking out their notepad and pen or their calculator. And the haggling begins.

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SONGS OF FIRE AND ICE

Suddenly, you hear someone in the ice factory section of the auction room ask: “Can I have a bag of fish scales?” The request isn’t for real fish scales, of course. It’s for the crushed ice which keeps the newly-purchased fish fresh. Every day, between seven and eight tons of ice are used here. If the catch is good and the auction is full, a merchant might need 200kg in one night. All the ice is added here: “It can’t arrive at the auction on ice – this is to ensure that the quality of the fish isn’t compromised.” During a short break between selling and transporting, the smell of freshly fried anchovies begins to fill the room; τhe little canteen just set up yet another small feast for its hungry workers.

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AT THE SOURCE

HANDLE WITH CARE

Arranging the fish in the chests for transport is a ritual. The fish must stand upright and they must not be packed too tightly, or they will end up bruised and bleeding. The ice, too, must be as clean as possible. In 2015, the Keratsini Fish Market handled around 22,500 tons of fish – 90 percent comes from Greek seas and is transported here by boats or via refrigerated lorries just a few hours after being caught. Exchanges also take place with other fish markets in Greece, and there’s even a small percentage of imported products, such as Atlantic salmon, catfish, and groupers and snappers from Thailand. The auction is also an export center, sending fish to the US, Canada, China, Japan, Spain, Italy, France and Albania. The merchandise is weighed and packed into Styrofoam containers to cope with the transport conditions. Statistics show that the Japanese prefer tuna, while from America the greatest demand is for sardines and anchovies.

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1. Smelt 2. Octopus 3. Red Snapper 4. Cuttlefish 5. Mullet 6. Cardinalfish 7. Monkfish 8. Red Snapper 9. Horse Mackerel 10. Moray 11. Dentex 12. Shrimp 13. Large-eye Dentex 14. Lobster 15. Sardine 16. Senegalese Bream 17. Sharp Snout Bream, Sarguses 18. Crayfish 19. Assorted fish for soup 20. European flying squid

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NOTHING GOES TO WASTE

On moonless nights, when the fishing boats switch on their lights to attract fish close to the surface, the sea rewards those who work when most of us are tucked in our beds. The fishermen’s mission is to ensure that the fish on sale are the best and the freshest by doing what they describe as “a very tough job ,which nonetheless provides a strange sense of fulfillment.” Profit is not the only thing warming their hearts. “Nothing goes to waste here,” says the auction’s managing director Vassilis Katsiotis. “Unsold fish are donated to people in need, to “social supermarkets,” and to other welfare organizations. Last year, the market gave away a total of 200 tons of fish.

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Yperokeanio

E AT & DRINK

SEAFOOD CITY If you are looking for kakavia (traditional fish soup) made with rockfish from the Aegean Sea, or gilthead sea bream carpaccio, or bonito sushi, Athens is the place to be. Its proximity to the open sea makes the city an ideal choice for high-quality fish and seafood dining. BY NENA DIMITRIOU

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Varoulko Seaside

Cookoovaya

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E AT & DRINK

Lesvos A traditional ouzeri, Lesvos has been located in the same spot since 1970. A lobster and an octopus drawn on the glass-fronted eatery are there to welcome you, and tables spill out onto the sidewalk. The owners, who do come from Lesvos, maintain their ties with the island, sourcing local products, such as the spicy ladotyri, a sheep’s milk cheese from Mytilene, broad beans, cuttlefish with vinegar, and homemade salted fish including marinated chub mackerel and skipjack tuna. Perfectly fried striped mullet and red mullet, tiny prawns from Simi, and whitebait or anchovies are served here, depending on seasonal availability. Choose

from eleven varieties of ouzo from Lesvos, some of which are rarely found elsewhere in Athens. 38 Emmanouil Benaki, Exarchia • tel (+30) 210.381.45.25 Travolta Culinary creativity abounds in this one-of-a-kind taverna, renowned for its excellent service and super-fresh ingredients. The atmosphere is friendly and the welcome is warm, while not lacking in professionalism. The exquisite surgically filleted raw seafood sets this place apart. Be sure to try the gilthead sea bream carpaccio, served with stony sea urchin, to savor all the flavors the Aegean has to offer on one plate. Sea bream tartare and sashimi are also

on the menu. Equally tasty are the casserole dishes, like the gilthead sea bream filet with tomato sauce and slightly smoked eggplant purée, or the dusky grouper with okra. Particularly popular is the Norwegian lobster, as well as other kinds of shellfish so fresh they seen to bring the sea right to your table. The wine list includes more than fifty labels from selected Greek vineyards, and even more choice is available when it comes to ouzo, with bottled varieties from small producers all across Greece, from Limnos to the Peloponnese. 33 Aghiou Pavlou, Peristeri, tel (+30) 210.571.92.22 Cookoovaya Renowned within a year of its

opening, Cookoovaya serves Greek cuisine with ingredients that ‘shine’, just as the main dining area glimmers in the ample natural light that floods in through the tall, broad windows. The open-plan kitchen, which hosts twelve chefs and sous-chefs busy with their pots and pans, resembles an animated tableau vivant. The tuna sashimi with orange, avocado, purslane, and lime is unforgettable – a feast of flavors. Do not skip the tuna burger, served with homemade bread, pickled white cabbage, spicy jalapeno mayonnaise, and French fries. The grilled fresh fish in a salt crust is great for sharing. The desserts are scrumptious. 2 Hatziyianni Mexi, Hilton • tel (+30) 210.723.50.05

Travolta

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E AT & DRINK

Taxidevontas Off the beaten tourist track in Keratsini, Piraeus, Taxidevontas is well worth the 30-minute drive it takes to get there, just to taste the freshest fish and shellfish. The marine decor, the intensely blue walls and the fishing nets, give the restaurant a retro vibe. The shellfish salad, featuring razor clams, missels and littleneck clams with wine and garlic should not be missed. Try the shrimp saganaki in a tomato and feta sauce. There is also a branch located in the northern suburb of Nea Erithrea. 72 Platonos, Keratsini • tel (+30) 210.432.43.68 • t36 Evaggelistrias, Nea Erithrea • tel (+30) 210.620.15.72

methodically fusing sweet and acidic tastes, cured meat and fish, the East and the West. Try the short-finned squid with picked raisins, fennel chutney, and parsley oil – an excellent high-impact dish. We also recommend the mackerel (or seasonal substitute), served on top of bacon aspic with almirikia (salty seashore greens) and tomato – it’s alive and kicking. The ‘fish for babies’, as it’s listed on the menu, is freshly caught that day, grilled and boned, marinated, and masterly perfumed with smoked olive oil and herbs. The restaurant’s interior is minimal and intimate, with tables huddled together. In fact, everything is concise, just like the food they serve. These are carefully prepared recipes with perfectly matched ingredients and no unnecessary trimmings. 31 Voulis, Syntagma • tel (+30) 210.324.35.45

Yperokeanio The owner, a sea captain from the island of Kimolos, chose to decorate this contemporary taverna with tin cans, an antique refrigerator, a set of grocers’ scales, and the hull of a small boat. Here, you will find all the popular seafood items and side dishes, including octopus, mussels and squid, as well as sticks of fried zucchini, at reasonable prices. Make sure you try the traditional ladenia of Kimolos, a healthier version of pizza, topped with tomatoes, onions and olive oil, as well as the finely fried battered cod. We recommend ouzo to complement your meal, and dondurma, a special kind of ice cream prepared with salep and mastic, to finish. 48 Marias Hatzikiriakou, Piraeus • tel (+30) 210.418.00.30

Papaioannou With an uninterrupted sea vista and tables with white linen tablecloths right on the edge of the Mikrolimano Bay in Piraeus, Papaioannou is special. Their quality ingredients are simply but expertly cooked. We suggest you try the fish, fileted and prepared in front of you and so skillfully grilled that there’s no need to add the customary oil-and-lemon dressing. Simply relish its natural flavor that’s been retained in its juices. Crayfish, squid and sea urchin salad, all served with toasted bread, are consistently among the best items on the menu. 42 Akti Koumoundourou, Mikrolimano, Piraeus • tel (+30)210.422.5059

Nolan This is not strictly a fish restaurant, but is certainly the most interesting development on the Athenian gastronomic scene in the past six months. The young Greek-Japanese chef Sotiris Kontizas makes good use of the finest ingredients,

Varoulko Seaside Acclaimed chef Lefteris Lazarou is synonymous with creative seafood dining. With a lot of experience dabbling in seafood, he promises unexpected combinations. Try the squid served with basil pesto in a crispy potato nest, or the slices of fresh fish with G R E E C E IS

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Sushimou

ratatouille, creamed marrow, grilled tomato and fried eggplant, Mediterranean flavors reminiscent of a sea breeze. Delicious entrées, such as the white taramosalata, are the perfect way to start your meal. The wine list is diverse, the service is professional, and the desserts are elegant. On the second floor of the building, there is a space reserved for art exhibitions. Book early for a table by the sea. 54 Akti Koumoundourou, Mikrolimano, Piraeus • tel (+30) 210.522.8400 Yiannis In the Hatzikyriakio neighborhood, just outside the port district of Piraeus, there is an abundance of livrly fish tavernas. These eateries don’t have a sea view or culinary awards, but are happy to welcome families and groups of friends to join in their vibrant atmoshpere. Yiannis is such a place. Everything is simple, clean and fast, and the clientele must love it that way, because they have 166

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been coming here for for years. If this is your first time, make sure you telephone and pre-order the fish soup. Other standouts are the small fried fish the fresh salads with greens and seasonal vegetables, the squid and the grilled fish, all at unbeatable value for your money. When the place is crowded, the atmosphere is buzzing. 107 Hatzikyriakou, Peiraiki • tel (+30) 210.418.0160 Sushimou This is a one-man-show, an authentic Japanese sushi bar that serves only eleven people at a time. In such an intimate environment there is nothing to distract your attention from the talented hands of the chef. The co-stars are chub mackerel, horse mackerel, bonito, and sea bass, all from Greek waters. If this is your first time trying sushi, we suggest you order the ‘Don’, with avocado and chunks of fileted fish on seaweed sheets and rice.6 Skoufou, Syntagma • tel (+30) 211.407.8457

Nolan

ÂŠ DIMITRIS VLAIKOS

Nolanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s young Greek-Japanese chef makes good use of the finest ingredients, methodically fusing sweet and acidic tastes, cured meat and fish, the East and the West.

IN THE MIX

COCKTAILS WITH A GREEK TWIST Greek bartenders are sparking an evolutionary leap in the Mediterranean cocktail scene by showcasing local ingredients. BY Paulina Björk K apsalis p h o t o s D I M I T RIS V LAIK O S

he cocktail scene has undergone a radical change in Greece, and there’s even a name for this new trend; Mediterranean bartending. Basically, this means that the person standing behind the bar is not just there to pour your drink; they are enthusiastic promoters of new flavors and mixes, eager to share their knowledge of local products. Grab a stool at the bar in most Athenian night spots, and you’re likely to learn all you need to know about Greek spirits and ingredients. One might ask whether this good-natured openness and the imaginative use of local products

you’d never expect to find in a cocktail justify treating Mediterranean bartending as a category in its own right. Is it excessive to give the style a name? Or, to put it another way, can it be compared with other styles, such as, say, the Japanese? And does it measure up? Ioannis Korovesis, former manager at Noel and founder of bitterbooze.com, is positive that it does. Greece has a booming bar scene, and there is plenty of room for ambitious and innovative mixologists to build a reputation and make careers for themselves. The possibility for expression and ex-

IOANNIS KOROVESIS

The founder of the prestigious bartending website www.bitterbooze.com, shares his expertise while also educating new bartenders at Le Monde Institute of Hotel & Tourism Studies. Right, Sister Morphine, one of his signature cocktails.

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VASILIS KYRITSIS

The Clumsies’ mixologist surprises his clientele with the unusual use of Greek ingredients such as olive oil as a base for his cocktails.

perimentation draws creative people to the field, and this new trend helps them find their own style. The difference in styles can be significant. Take Mario Basso, co-owner of Barreldier, and Dimitris Papaioannou of El Jiron, for example. One loves classic cocktails and works on improving them with modern techniques; the other has embraced all that modern mixology offers, including molecular “tools” for making new ingredients such as goat cheese foam. Yet they both keep coming back to local tastes and flavors. One perennially popular ingredient is grapes. Greek wines are doing well nationally and internationally, and many bartenders have taken to mixing them into cocktails. Basso, who was born in Italy, makes his vermouth using Assyrtiko wine from Santorini. Xavier Misailidis of Holy Spirit makes his Bloody Mary with red Agiorgitiko 170

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The cocktail game is taken up a notch with barrel-aging at Barreldier, where Mario Basso serves his tsipouro-based Deli Sour.

wine, while Vasilis Kyritsis, co-owner of The Clumsies, creates wine-based syrups. And there’s more to it: many cocktail menus now showcase aged tsipouro, the grape-based spirit, as well as that unique brandy-and-wine based spirit, Metaxa. Bartenders from all over the world are beginning to take notice, too. The island of Chios, for instance, is currently attracting attention from the international mixologists’ community, thanks to products its inhabitants have been producing for hundreds of years, like rose water and orange flower water. Another example is their “soumada” which sometimes takes the place of orgeat syrup and gives its characteristic almond flavor to make Mediterranean-fusion tiki drinks. Most successful, however, is their PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) mastiha liqueur. Made from the resin of the mastic tree, it is so special, one might be tempted to enjoy it strictly on its own. However, as both Korovesis and Kyritsis point out, the world has discovered that this liqueur is also highly mixable. 172

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DIMITRIS PAPAIOANNOU

The El Jiron bartender leans on a wine barrel where he combines ingredients with molecular mixology techniques. The results include his signature cocktail, Fragrance of Greece (Aroma Elladas), served in a teacup.

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XAVIER MISAILIDIS

The bartender at Holy Spirit, in the coastal suburb of Glyfada south of Athens, infuses his Bloody Mary with the scents and flavors of a Greek bostani (vegetable garden).

It’s not only about Greek wines and spirits. Bartenders around the Mediterranean have the significant advantage of being surrounded by excellent local fruits and herbs all year long. Papaioannou, who is releasing a book of Greek cocktail recipes next year, will gladly try any fresh produce normally found in traditional Greek cooking, including wild greens (“horta”) and fennel. Of course, everyone agrees that artificial flavorings are, or should be, a thing of the past, so it’s essential to be able to produce fresh juice and fruit purees. Misailidis notes that Greeks themselves usually prefer sweet and sour cocktails over bitter-sweet ones, and thinks it’s because their palettes have adjusted to the flavors of the local fruit and herbs. In the end, thanks to the local produce, Mediterranean bartending is, in fact, very Greek. And there’s no better place to see what this trend is all about than right here, at one of Athens’ many great bars.

Greeks usually prefer sweet and sour cocktails over bittersweet ones; a possible explenation is that their palettes have adjusted to the flavors of local fruit and herbs.

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Where Will You Start? P la c es to experien c e M editerranean bartendin g

At Noel, the staff consists of bartenders and what they call “floortenders,” who all switch roles on a daily basis. Here, you will experience the same level of hospitality and knowledge, whether you find a seat at the bar or one of the tables.

At Barreldier, try the vermouth based on Assyrtiko wine from Santorini, or any cocktail made with Greek brandy. The “Deli Sour” is an excellent way to ease yourself into the taste experience of tsipouro.

7 Voulis, Bolani Arcade • Tel. (+30) 210.325.4711 59 B Kolokotroni • Tel. (+30) 211.215.9534

One example from the new menu at The Clumsies is the “Jenna Says”. It is vodka washed with olive oil, freshened by tomato juice and flavored with slow cooked green olive cordial. Also try their old-fashioned, made with barrel-aged tsipouro and Greek thyme honey.

At El Jiron, experience Mediterranean ingredients in a completely new way; for instance, why not try a version of Greek rice pudding made with alcohol?

14 Dimitriou Vasileiou & Glaukou, Psychiko • www.eljiron.gr • Tel. (+30) 210.671.7461

Visit Holy Spirit for cocktails made with herb-infused mastiha or Greek red wine. The Bloody Mary in particular, made with a red-wine concoction that features chamomile, is a must-try.

41 Laodikis, Glyfada • Tel. (+30) 210.898.2650

30 Praxitelous • www.theclumsies.gr • Tel. (+30)210.323.2682

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