GREECE IS | PELOPONNESE | 2015 by GREECE IS

greece is experience culture, gastronomy & more

F I R S T e d iti o n

PE LO P O N N ES E

2015-2016 ISSUE

10 - 43

45 - 77

79 - 172

W E L C O ME

DIS COVE R

EX PL ORE

173 - 191 TASTE

The Peloponnese has enchanted travelers and explorers since antiquity. Today, it is reinventing itself once more, investing in its future and claiming its place on the international tourism map.

Home to gods and heroes, birthplace of the Olympic Games and apple of discord among foreign conquerors, every corner has hundreds of fascinating stories to tell.

From sandy beaches to snowy peaks and rolling hills to dense forests, from coastal towns to charming mountain villages, the Peloponnese is the definition of diversity.

All that is good grows here before finding its way into an array of dishes that honor fresh ingredients and respect traditional culinary techniques.

GRE ETING

Welcome to Mythical Peloponnese

by Pe t ro s Tat oul i s , Go v er nor of t he Pel op onne se R egion

The Peloponnese, known in medieval times as the Morea, is the largest peninsula in Greece and one of the most diverse destinations in the Mediterranean. History & Culture, Sea & Sun, Nature & Outdoor Activities, Luxury & Facilities, Gastronomy & Local Products, are just some of the elements that make up the rich tourism product of the Peloponnese, enabling it to offer memorable experiences to every visitor. As the main source of income and employment, tourism is of strategic importance on account of its high capacity to generate economic growth, create jobs and make a significant contribution to the development and modernization of the region. The Regional Authority’s investment in a sustainable and competitive tourism product and infrastructure is an ongoing process. In an area with such a rich cultural heritage and diverse natural beauty, the authority aims, in the framework of its new tourism development strategy, to make the Peloponnese easily accessible, while expanding to new niche markets, generating new

business leads for the local tourism industry from existing markets and building strong collaborations with key industry players both locally and internationally, thus making the Peloponnese a year-round leisure and business destination. One of the first challenges was to make the Peloponnese more accessible in order to enable even more visitors to explore it. Agreements were concluded with airlines to operate seasonal daily flights to Kalamata International Airport and these coincided with the completion of the main road artery that crosses the Peloponnese. The Regional Authority’s new tourism development strategy also aims to boost the “Mythical Peloponnese” brand and find innovative ways to promote and further enrich our tourism product. To this end, our campaign “10 experiences”, focuses on actions to promote specific tourism products in new and existing markets. These experiences include the promotion of the region’s gastronomy, heritage, history, walking routes and beaches, as well as the wellness and luxury options

that are available to visitors. Raising awareness of the destination’s brand is being achieved through the implementation of a promotional strategy that includes the revamp of the official “Mythical Peloponnese” brand and website, participation in international tourism events, the organization of familiarization (fam) trips and the hosting of major international events. As part of efforts to find innovative ways to capitalize on some of the destination’s unique selling points, the region has introduced Quality Agreements between hotels, catering businesses and local products that link tourism with the agricultural and local food sectors, thus further promoting agrotourism and gastronomic experiences among visitors. I am confident that our efforts will be vindicated and that the Peloponnese will continue to thrive among the top destinations in Europe and the Mediterranean. In this timeless, enchanting landscape, where new forms of tourism and products are constantly emerging, we invite visitors to live the myth.

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CONTENTS Greece Is - Peloponnese, First Edition, 2015-2016 Issue WELCOME 10. Peloponnese, the rising star of the Mediterranean

18. Facts & Figures 20. Calendar of Events 24. Becoming Peloponnesian 34. Amazing Photos

explore 80. Corinthia at a Glance 82. The Corinth Canal: The power of vision

86. Ziria Mountain: Alpine Corinthia 94. Argolida at a Glance 96. Nafplio: A town for all seasons 102. Epidaurus: Spiritual respite

discover 46. Mythology: From Heracles

in an ancient land

to the Spartans

in plain sight

50. Timeline: Shots of history 52. Mycenae & Tiryns: The mighty

112. Arcadia at a Glance 114. Mountainous Arcadia: Where

citadels

Utopia met the fire of battle

106. Porto Heli: A treasure hidden

58. Ancient Olympia: Idealism

120. Leonidio: Descendants

meets reality

of the Doric tribes

66. Ancient Corinth: A commercial and cultural crossroads

124. Laconia at a Glance 126. Mystras & Monemvasia:

70. Apollo Epicurius Temple:

Vestiges of an empire

The Parthenon of the Peloponnese

72. Ancient Messene: Refuge and renaissance

76. The Makers of History 6

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132. Mani: Higlhand pride 138. Diros Caves: Nature’s underground cathedral

142. Messinia at a Glance 144. Southwest Messinia: The next "in" destination

150. Patrick Leigh-Fermor: A hero’s retreat

154. Ilia at a glance 156. Kyllini & Strofylia: Go west! 160. Achaia at a glance 162. Kalavryta: Racking up experiences 168. Activities: Get in the game GASTRONOMY 174. The Cuisine: A smorgasbord of delights

178. Products: Certified excellence 182. World Famous: The glorious olive 154. Wine: Peloponnesian grapeland

150 186

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168 greece is - peloponnese first edition, 2015 - 2016 issue

Published by: Exerevnitis - Explorer SA, Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos St, Athens, 18547, Greece ISSN: 2459-2498 Manager of Magazine Publications: Socratis Tsichlias Editor-in-chief: Giorgos Tsiros (editor@greece-is.com) Deputy editors: Vassilis Minakakis, Natasha Blatsiou Creative consultant: Costas Coutayar Creative director: Thodoris Lalangas / www.youandi.gr Art director: Ria Staveri Translations: John Leonard, Christine Sturmey, Stephen Stafford Proof-reading: Christine Sturmey Photo editors: Dimitris Tsoumblekas, Maria Konstantopoulou Photoshop: Christos Maritsas, Michalis Tzannetakis, Stelios Vazourakis Commercial director: Natasha Bouterakou (sales@greece-is.com) Head of public relations: Lefki Vardikou Online marketing: Thanasis Sofianos, www.relevance.gr GREECE IS - PELOPONNESE is a yearly publication, distributed free of charge. Its first edition coincides with the ABTA 2015 Travel Convention, hosted in Costa Navarino, Messinia, Peloponnese. Contact us: welcome@greece-is.com

It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.

ON THE C OVER A satellite photo of the Peloponnese, with its distinct mulberry-leaf shape © SHUTTERSTOCK

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WE LCOME

The Rising Star of the Med The Peloponnese is fast evolving into one of the most eclectic and multifaceted destinations in the broader region, with myriad developments boosting its international reputation.

The Peloponnesian coastline never ceases to amaze. Here, a view of eastern Mani.

geography If the Peloponnese were a country, it would rank 151st place in the world in terms of size, yet it is astonishing how much variety and natural wealth has been squeezed into these 21,439 square kilometers that constitute the peninsula south of mainland Greece – earning it the name of Morea after its resemblance to the leaf of a mulberry tree. With a 1,200-kilometer coastline and hundreds of excellent beaches for swimming; with more than 50 mountains with an altitude above 1,000 meters; with forests, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, caves, sites 10

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listed for protection under NATURA and landscapes that have enchanted travelers since antiquity; with fertile undulating valleys and countless challenges for thrill-seekers – from hiking and climbing to diving – the Peloponnese has all the natural capital needed to develop leisure and touring tourism, as well as a healthy model for sustainable growth.

HISTORY The Peloponnese is a historically-rich region that boasts a number of remarkable archaeological sites – Mycenae, Olympia, Messene,

Corinth, Epidaurus and the uniquely preserved temple of Apollo at Bassae. However, numerous other sites of great significance also stand out. In the northeast are Isthmia, Sikyon, Nemea and Medea; in the adjacent Argolid, Argos, Tiryns, Nauplio (modern-day Nafplio), Lerna and Asine; in the south, the once-great Sparta, Mystras, Monemvasia, the castles of Methoni and Koroni, and the wreck-strewn Bay of Navarino (Pylos) with the Palace of Nestor nearby; while in the northwest, Ancient Olympia, one of the most important sites of antiquity, birthplace of the Olympic Games. The Peloponnesian past and its

The archaeological site of Ancient Corinth. In the background, the temple of Apollo.

landmarks span centuries of settlement, strife and stoic defense, from the earliest times through the Homeric Bronze Age, the Classical and Hellenistic eras, Roman occupation, Byzantine rule, Slavic and Ottoman invasions and the first decades of the modern Greek state.

AUTHENTICITY Touring alone is not enough for demanding modern-day travelers; they want to experience each destination through all of their senses. It is not surprising that so many visitors from around the world return to the Peloponnese to buy a summer home or move here for good. Village life remains uncomplicated, enhanced by 12

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colorful traditions, and there are so many events to enjoy all year round: the olive harvest, tasting the first oil, the grape harvest, carnival, Easter, religious fetes, contemporary cultural festivals and a plethora of local initiatives each have their own allure. The Regional Authority of the Peloponnese is investing in this form of experiential-thematic tourism with the creation of 10 themebased experiences under titles such as “Flavors with History,” “Fascinating Journeys,” “Priceless Heritage,” “Land of Myths,” “Nature and Activities,” “Wellbeing and Luxury,” “Legendary Beaches,” “Trip of Dreams,” “Family Holidays” and “Romantic Destination.” Every path leads to the true soul of Greece.

CLIMATE Though it differs by area and altitude, the Peloponnesian climate can be described as Mediterranean, conducive to a life outdoors for most of the year. Warm on the coasts and colder but bracingly crisp in the mountains, each season unfolds here in all its splendor: winters tend to be mild and wet on the lowlands and wilder in the mountains, which see plenty of snowfall; summers are hot and can be humid depending on the locality; while spring and autumn are arguably the best time to explore the region and enjoy activities in nature.

1. Historic Dimitsana is hailed as one of the most beautiful villages in the mountains of Arcadia. 2. The impressive lobby of The Romanos, A Luxury Collection Resort, at Costa Navarino, one of the major investments that have put the Peloponnese firmly on the international tourism map. 3. Perfect for city breaks, the Peloponnese’s urban areas combine a wealth of history and facilities, with a plethora of accommodation, dining and entertainment options. Here we see the King George I (Vassileos Georgiou A) Square in Patras. 4. Silver-screen sweethearts Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy in a scene from Richard Linklater’s Before Midnight, which was filmed in Messinia.

Finikounda is renowned for its golden beaches and excellent bathing waters.

View of works on the Olympia Odos highway that connects Corinth with Patras.

ACCESSIBILITY With Corinth just 1 hour from Athens by road, Tripoli a mere 1 hour 45’ and Kalamata 2 hours 30’ at a reasonable speed, access to the Peloponnese is easier today than ever before. Extensive work on its highways, the Olympia Odos linking Corinth to Patra and the Ionia Odos linking Western Greece and Epirus to the Peloponnese via the Rio-Antirrio cable-stayed bridge, is expected to trim journey times by 20 percent and offer fast and safe travel. Meanwhile, the “Captain Vassilis Constantakopoulos” International Airport of Kalamata has broken the domestic arrivals record, with numbers soaring from 30,446 in 2009 to 98,511 in 2014. Future plans by the Regional Authority also see it evolving into a major, competitive hub for the entire Mediterranean region. Aegean Airlines has already created a base there, while other leading carriers (EasyJet, Austrian Airlines, 14

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Condor, Ryanair, Air Berlin) have seasonal flights connecting the Peloponnese to 21 European destinations, among them London, Paris, Munich, Stockholm, Vienna and Prague. At the same time, there are plans to hand over a military airport in Tripoli to civil aviation in a bid to boost commerce and tourism. The aim is for the new airport to serve low-cost airlines, charters as well as cargo carriers.

INFRASTRUCTURE The economic crisis has undoubtedly restricted Greek holidaymakers but the Peloponnese is investing in the foreign traveler and being reinvented as a premier Mediterranean destination dedicated to offering quality services, with genuine respect for the natural environment, local people and visitors. Having developed integrated destination resorts in Messinia and Porto Heli, with new ones opening in Laconia and Corinthia, the region has

justifiably earned a prominent place on the luxury tourism map and is increasingly attracting international tour operators. Marinas, yacht anchorage zones and diving sites have made it an important base and stop-off in marine tourism, while its cities and towns – an attractive combination of modern infrastructure and local color – have been making inroads with the conference and city break tourism markets. Natural springs, rivers, ski resorts and mountain trails are contributing to even more specialized forms of outdoor tourism. One of the biggest achievements in this respect has been the development of the Mainalo Trail in the Arcadian mountains, the first internationally certified trail in Greece, covering a central route of 75 kilometers with myriad detours that take you into villages and forests of Gortynia and the playgrounds of ancient gods.

FOCUSING ON THE SEA Other than the ultramodern Port of Patra, the second biggest in Greece and a major gateway to Western Europe, the Peloponnese has a large network of ports that can play a crucial role in the development of its maritime tourism. Four of Greece’s 20 ports with the highest number of cruise ship arrivals in 2015 are here: Katakolo (5th place), Kalamata (11th), Nafplio (13th) and Monemvasia (18th). Also actively vying for a slice of this significant market are Gythio, Astros, Leonidio and Kyparissia. Additionally, efforts are being made to enhance the region’s marinas to attract the yachters, who contributes significant revenues to the local economy throughout the year. The marina at Nafplio has already been developed, with that of Monemvasia expected soon, while three in Laconia, one in Marathopoli in Messinia and another in Tyros in Arcadia, will also soon welcome pleasure craft.

Sustainable development, improving the quality and promotion of the tourism product, developing specialized forms of tourism and new offerings, attracting affluent visitors and lengthening the season to seven months with a view to making the Peloponnese a year-round destination: these are the tourism policy challenges being met by the regional authority.

sands of “friends” on) and smartphone apps (Mythical Peloponnese, Mythical Peloponnese Travel, Hiking in the Peloponnese). Events held in cooperation with tourism professionals to host journalists and tour operators from around the world have led to widespread publicity and significant deals being made at relatively little cost, while the Peloponnese also maintains a dynamic presence at all major international trade fairs, including World Travel Market London, ITB Berlin, Moscow International Travel and Tourism, TourNatur and Boot in Dusseldorf.

Reaching out

Tourism Observatory

All of the traditional and modern tools of marketing and communication (through portals, social media campaigns, advertising spots, brochures, etc.) are being enlisted in the effort to enhance the international brand name “Mythical Peloponnese”. This ambitious campaign is centered on the official website (www.mythicalpeloponnese. gr) and includes the broad use of social media (with thou-

All of the information needed to draw up tourism strategies will be collected here, from statistics on arrival figures, employment and environmental impact, to data on potential demand and visitor satisfaction.

THE FUTURE

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Investment

One billion euros’ worth of infrastructure projects are currently under way as part of the biggest investment

program ever carried out in the Peloponnese. Several public-private partnerships are also in the pipeline: the regional authority is providing 150 million euros to 1,140 investment plans, mainly for small and medium-size businesses involved in tourism, while another 60 million euros are being invested in cultural activities to enhance theme-based tourism.

Geared by the “Mythical Peloponnese” campaign, the Regional Authority has traveled to some of the biggest tourism expos in the world. At right, a display of the campaign at the Schrannenhalle in Munich and, at left, the tasting corner of Peloponnesian products at the National Geographic Store in London.

Peloponnese City Break Card

This campaign is aimed at attracting tourists to the Peloponnese’s cities and towns by offering discounts on accommodation and food, admission to archaeological sites and public transportation. Peloponnesian Quality Agreement

Achieving a successful marriage between tourism and the region’s quality products and cuisine is the key to this initiative. It is scheduled to be launched in 2016, in cooperation with Peloponnesian businesses and producers.

Natural springs, rivers, ski resorts and mountain trails are contributing to even more specialized forms of outdoor tourism.

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IN NUMBERS Compiled by GIORGOS TSIROS

50 million years The age of the oldest mountains in the northern Peloponnese 5.5 seconds The duration of a bungee jump from the bridge over the Corinth Canal 3,000 years The age of Pausania’s Vine at the settlement of Pagrateika Kalyvia near the border of Achaia-Arcadia 1,250 tablets inscribed with Linear B script, discovered in the Mycenaean palace at Pylos

15 kilos The weight of the gold artifacts found in Grave Circle A at Mycenae 110 & 250 The number of villages and churches, respectively, in Mani

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2,800 Species and subspecies making up the flora of the Peloponnese – 126 are endemic to the region

1.58 cm Height of the earliest complete human skeleton found in Greece, discovered in the Franchthi Cave in Argolis

7 billion light years Observation range of the ultramodern Aristarchos Telescope, located on the Neraidorachi peak of Mount Helmos (alt. 2,340 meters), one of the darkest areas in Europe

5,120 meters The deepest point in the Mediterranean Sea, the Calypso Deep (known in Greek as the Oinousses Trench), 62 miles southwest of Cape Tainaro

30 meters The height of the Hall of the Great Ocean in the Diros Caves

1 in 3 prime ministers of Greece, 34 in total, since the founding of the modern Greek state, hail from the Peloponnese

53,589 Number of hotel beds in the Peloponnese 230,000 euros Asking price for a 150 m2 stone house on a plot of 900 m2 enjoying views of the sea, castle and town of Methoni 265 km/hour The wind speed the 2,880-meter long Rio-AntiRrio bridge is built to withstand

60 tons The weight of the lintel above the Lion Gate, the main entrance to the citadel of Mycenae, long believed to be the work of the Cyclopes, a race of mighty giants 21,549.6 square kilometers is the Total area of the Peloponnese peninsula

1,086,935 Total population of the Peloponnese (2011 census) 10 euros Price per day for a large tent space at the Simos Camping on Elafonisos during peak season 2,500 euros Standard daily rate for a 142 m2 Master Infinity Villa, one of the top accommodation choices at the Romanos, A Luxury Collection Resort, Costa Navarino 50 pounds sterling The price of 500 ml of Ultra Premium Extra Virgin Oil Lambda, made from the Koroneiki variety, one of the most expensive olive oils in the world.

65% of Greece’s total olive oil production comes from the Peloponnese 30-150 kilos The fruit yield of a Koroneiki olive tree. The oil yield of each olive is between 10 and 20%

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12 MONTHS OF FUN The culturally vibrant Peloponnese has a packed calendar of interesting musical, theatrical, foodie and sporting events. Here are some highlights. The Patra Carnival

Olympic Torch Lighting Ceremony

Nafplio Festival

Night of the Balloons

Epidaurus Festival

Eggplant Festival

The Patras Carnival The biggest carnival celebration in Greece has a long history going back 181 years, while the floats – created exclusively by locals – first appeared in the 1870s. Next year’s celebrations begin on February 21 while the main Carnival Weekend, with the colorful parade of handmade, news-inspired satirical floats and tens of thousands of participants, falls on March 11-13.

Easter

Night of the Balloons, Leonidio A truly amazing spectacle that takes place on the night 20

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of Holy Saturday. Hundreds of sky lanterns, made of straw and paper, are released at the moment devout worshippers exclaim “Christ is risen,” filling the night sky with lights and colors. The origins of this custom, which is not observed anywhere else in Greece, are unknown, though some maintain it is an Asian tradition that seamen brought home to Leonidio in the late 19th century.

APRIL

Olympic Torch Lighting Ceremony Ancient Olympia will again find itself at the center of global interest on the occasion of the torch lighting ceremony (21/4) for the 2016 Olympic

Games in Rio. The initial Greek leg of the torch relay will last seven days and the Olympic Flame will be handed over to the “Rio 2016” Organizing Committee at the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens on April 27, before continuing its journey to Brazil.

June

Nafplio Festival Running for more than two decades, this well-established festival brings together performers and classical music aficionados from across Greece and further afield. From June 19-28, the charming seaport will be hosting a variety of performances at some of Nafplio’s most iconic venues.

July

Tsakonian Eggplant Festival, Leonidio The Melitzazz festival is a celebration of delicious food, music and dance taking place in Leonidio’s streets, squares and countryside. Musicians from across the Mediterranean come to the picturesque village to pay homage to the star product of local cuisine, the PDO Tsakonian eggplant, to the accompaniment of jazz, ethnic, Greek and Latin music. (www.melitzazz.gr)

July - August

Epidaurus Festival Every Friday and Saturday throughout this major, two-

January - March

Kalamata Dance Festival

Great Days of Nemea

Spartathlon

Chestnut Festival

Olive & Olive Oil Festival

July

Kalamata International Dance Festival Since being established in 1995, the festival has evolved into one of the country’s most important cultural events and a significant date on the South Mediterranean dance calendar, combining performances by outstanding Greek and international artists with

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talks and workshops aimed at showcasing the very best in contemporary dance. (www. kalamatadancefestival.gr)

August 15

September

August

The most important feast day in the Greek Orthodox calendar after Easter Sunday, a cause for celebration in almost every village across the country. Just follow the music.

The grape harvest is celebrated in one of the richest and most historic wine-producing areas of Greece, offering visitors the opportunity to visit wineries and vineyards, participate in seminars, catch performances and, of course, taste, taste and taste again.

Olive and Olive Oil Festival, Sellasia Producers of Laconia’s celebrated olives and olive oil invite you to taste their products and participate in a number of colorful cultural and folk music events.

August

Fig feast, Polylofos Visitors are treated to a mouthwatering selection of local dishes featuring the fruit that has been a staple of Messinian cuisine throughout the centuries: fresh figs, dried figs, fig desserts, fig jams and preserves. A veritable fig extravaganza, to the sounds of live Greek music, 25k from Kalamata.

Dormition of the Mother of God

September

Spartathlon Covering 250k in less than 40 hours, this historical race retraces the steps of Pheidippides, an Athenian runner who was sent to Sparta to seek help when the Persians landed at Marathon in 490 BC. Attracting the elite of ultra-marathon runners, all finishers are presented with an olive wreath and offered a goblet of water from the Evrotas River, just as Olympian winners would have been honored in ancient times.

Great Days of Nemea

October

Chestnut Festival, Kastanitsa Since 1983, this picturesque village on the southern slopes of the Parnon mountain range has celebrated its namesake product (chestnut = kastano in Greek) with traditional dancing, exhibitions, informative talks and, of course, endless preparations and tastings of the chestnut in all its wonderful variations.

month theatrical festival, thousands of drama enthusiasts flock to Epidaurus, for a truly awe-inspiring experience: to watch performances of plays written thousands of years ago at one of the country’s most beautiful and best preserved ancient theaters. In July, a number of major musical events are also hosted in a smaller theater nearby. (www. greekfestival.gr)

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Becoming Peloponnesian Some people dream about doing it, and others actually do it. Foreign nationals who made the Peloponnese their home away from home continue to savor every second of it. BY ALEXIA AMVR AZI

J a m e s F o o t, a r t i s t

“Living closer to real things” James Foot is a Londoner who moved to Kyparissi in Laconia 22 years ago, first living in a farmhouse for a decade before buying two huts in 2001, which he converted and extended, adding a painting studio and a terrace. Setting up home in Kyparissi has rewarded him not only by inspiring him creatively – his works center on dazzling seascapes, empty village squares, sun-blanched stairs, colorful farm animals – but also by bolstering his bond with nature, the Greek people and their culture. “Here I’m living a bit closer to real things, eating and drinking foods of which I know the 24

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provenance, especially as I grow my own vegetables and herbs.” Instead of building his Greek education from books, he has learned the language, local customs and history by interacting with his neighbors and friends, all the time creating deep bonds. When he first arrived he was very much viewed as the “mad artist foreigner” who was met with stony silence whenever he visited the local coffee shop, but he “brazenly persisted.” Foot’s life in Kyparissi has also inspired him to write a murder mystery set in the village, soon to be published.

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Christopher Humphrys, musician

“A completely different perspective” An accomplished Welsh-English cellist and father of two, Christopher Humphrys moved to Greece to become one of the first members of the by now multi-awarded Athens Concert Hall’s “Camerata Friends of Music Orchestra” some 20 years ago, and over the last few years has also been reporting on the Greek crisis-hit reality for leading British media. His writing career was born with the book Blue Skies and Black Olives, which he co-wrote with his father, the famous BBC journalist John Humphrys, about the somewhat herculean task – with tragicomic consequences – of building a home near Methana, a region he was already well familiar with: “I have been making yearly pilgrimages to Epidaurus since 1993,” he says. “My orchestra played the first concert in 2000 years in the small theater at Epidaurus, which was a magical experience.” 26

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What Humphrys most enjoys about his Methana house, where he heads whenever he has a break, is “the change of pace” and socializing with locals, who offer him a completely different perspective than that held by stressed Athenians. “If I pop to the local shop to get some bread, I might end up having a coffee (ok, a beer) with the owner and return two hours later.” Humphrys is also profoundly moved by the natural splendor of the region. “The Methana peninsula is a constant source of surprise and wonder. Over 30 active volcanoes, 100 types of indigenous orchid and lush green valleys that look prehistoric! I half expect to come across small dinosaurs peeking out from behind the huge lava boulders. In most countries, Methana would be designated a national park. In the Peloponnese it’s just one of many fabulous places.”

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W e n d y C o p a g e , W A L K ING TOURS GUIDE

“I feel like I have come home” Greece has been Wendy’s second home for over 30 years, but 10 years ago she quit her publishing job in Athens and settled in Tyros, Arcadia, where she has been living year-round ever since. She bought a house and has kept it as authentic as possible while making renovations. She also created Greece On Foot, a guide to walking holidays: “Having traveled the whole of Greece for many years, this was my paradise. It has everything in terms of unspoiled nature… and I feel honored to be accepted as part of the local community.” It took Copage a long time to gain a deep understanding of the landscapes she so freely explores today, as, unlike her boots, the region was clearly not made for walking. “I just had to set off and find paths by trial and error,” she says. “When I asked locals for directions, the conversation tended to go something like this: - I want to go to Melana from here – where does the path start? 28

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- You can drive! - No, I want to walk. - Ah, then set off next to Kostas’ water tank. - Which Kostas? - Kostas who had the donkey that died on the way to the village festival… never mind, just get to the two olive trees that belong to the monastery. - How will I know which olives? (Silence). - So anyway, how long will it take me? - One hour. Six hours. You can’t go. You can’t go alone! Now a member of the local walking group committee, Copage also volunteers to clear old paths. “I feel I’ve come home here,” she says. “Walking the mountain paths with a few goatherds, sharing old stories as we watch the sunrise or sunset together, is a magical link to a valuable past that has been totally lost in the UK.”

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A n g e l i k e C o n t i s , J OURNA L IST

“There is nothing nicer than stepping out and harvesting whatever herbs or fruits are in the yard” For documentary filmmaker, writer and journalist Angelike Contis, whose parents are first-generation Americans (her mother from Chios and father from the Arcadian village of Vlachokerasia, the subject of her documentary 24 Hours In the Village), buying a 1932 schoolhouse in Iria was a way of having a place in the homeland for their annual “migration.” The reconstruction process was a family project, headed by her architect sister Christina. The home was where Contis held her wedding party and where new Contis generations are developing a vibrant connection to Greece. “Iria is the land of artichokes, giving it all a feel of a Paleolithic era,” she says. “The sea, its scent and presence are very strong. For us, it’s always a chance to take a breather, to relax, to spend meaningful time with friends, cooking, drinking wine... When it comes 30

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to eating, there is nothing nicer than stepping out and harvesting whatever herbs or fruits are in the yard. The rosemary is amazing. The pomegranates, grapes, olives, figs and the small, sweet oranges.” Living in New England, she often fantasizes about escaping to Iria, but unlike her parents, who stay there every summer, she only gets to visit every few years due to her busy job heading a local Vermont TV station. Having developed a profound respect for the place, she regrets that Iria is not more recognized for its attributes by locals: “Iria has an ancient past that is palpable, but sadly not exploited by the town. I always hoped they could put up a sign or something pointing to the site of the ancient shipwreck, but it hasn’t happened...”

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AMAZING PELOPONNESE

BY GIORGOS TSIROS

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Stormy past

An enthralling example of a fortified city and one of the most emblematic in Greece, Methoni Castle was built in the early 13th century by the Venetians and became a key transit point for all ships sailing in the Eastern Mediterranean. It grew to become a booming city until its bloody conquest by the Ottomans in the late 15th century. For centuries a strategic battleground, the castle stands defiantly on a rocky promontory, protected by the sea on three sides. Locals say that the winter winds carry the cries of those who died trying to defend or storm it.

BEFORE CAMERAS A gallery of pionneering travelers’ impressions of the Peloponnese

G R E E C E IS

• PELOPONNESE 2015 -2016

Greek Caribbean

Best known for Simos beach, with golden sand dunes, tamarisk trees and bountiful fish, Elafonisos was, until 2,000 years ago, a peninsula and home to a breed of small red deer (elafi in Greek). A mighty earthquake, however, broke it off from the Peloponnese and turned it into the region’s only inhabited island. Elafonisos is a place of outstanding natural beauty, protected under the Natura 2000 network, and a paradise for water-sports enthusiasts. Just off the coat lies the sunken city of Pavlopetri dating to the 3rd millennium BC, which some say inspired the Atlantis myth.

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Rooting around

What may be a dream for most is just another day at work for Sotiris Lymberopoulos, an economist who abandoned office life to return to his village, Raches in Kyparissia, to become a modern-day forager. Lymberopoulos supplies gourmet restaurants with hard-to-find wild greens, truffles, roots and fruits through his successful start-up, Radiki, a leading proponent of the back-to-roots food movement and a purveyor of freshly-picked ingredients, unprocessed and with a minimal environmental footprint – proof that the Peloponnese offers plenty of opportunity to think outside the box.

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Baby Alps

On the highest peaks of Mount Taygetus, the snow melts only for short spells. The biggest range in the Peloponnese, it is named after the nymph Taygete, daughter of the Titan Atlas, and is also known locally as “the five-fingered” (Pentadaktylos) because its five peaks resemble the knuckles of a fist. It spans 115 kilometers from Megalopoli in the north to Cape Tainaro in the south. With its highest peak rising 2,407 meters above sea level, four separate climatic zones, innumerable gorges, ravines and caves, a wealth of flora and fauna, along with dozens of traditional villages and hamlets, Taygetus is an endless source of tales and legends, as well as thrills for mountain sport aficionados.

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Southern star

“When you pass Malea, forget your home,” wrote the ancient geographer and historian Strabo when describing the important yet treacherous crossing at the southernmost point of mainland Greece. Off the coast of Laconia, it is lashed by unpredictable winds and frequent storms that swallowed ships or dashed them on the rocks. The 15-meter stone lighthouse built in 1883 to cast its life-saving light at a distance of up to 40 nautical miles, was beautifully restored a few years ago and stands today as a landmark for trekkers taking on the 8.5k trail from the lovely village of Velanidia.

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wildilife haven

Nature has been bountiful with the beauty and biodiversity it has bestowed on the 2,200 hectares that comprise the Kotychi-Strofilia Wetlands on the northwestern tip of the Peloponnese, just a one-hour drive from Patras. A forest of pine, cedar and oak gives way to undulating dunes that stretch to the lagoons of Prokopos and Kotychi and the Ionian Sea. Its permanent residents include turtles and tortoises, martens, hedgehogs, otters, foxes, kingfishers, owls and coots, as well as eels, sea bass and grey mullet. It is also a haven to migratory birds such as herons, swallows, hawks, turtle doves, ibises and hoopoes, among other species. Binoculars are a must.

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discover GREECE IS

PE LO P O N N ES E

T HE ISL AN D OF PEL OPS

The Peloponnese was named after Pelops, the reanimated son of Tantalus who became ruler of the entire region south of the Corinthian isthmus. The Peloponnesian past and its places of interest span centuries of settlement, strife and stoic defense. Olympia Landscape by Constantinos Maleas (1879-1928). (c) National Gallery, Alexandrosß Soutzos Museum, photo Stavros Psiroukis

MY THOLOGY

From Heracles to the Spartans The Peloponnesian landscape became a place bristling with Olympian gods, local and Panhellenic heroes, legendary, pseudo-historical figures and wild, monstrous creatures. BY JOHN LEONARD

he Peloponnese is a region abundant not only in Greek history and key archaeological sites, but also in ancient mythology. The gods and heroes of the Peloponnese often served a range of pragmatic as well as spiritual purposes, from lending divine legitimacy to rulers or cities, to offering comfort and medical aid to the infirm, or exhibiting through vivid, didactic characters and stories, the strengths and weaknesses of humankind. Beginning with Homer (as early as the 8th or 7th century BC), and embellished by Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and many other contemporary Classical or later writers, the Peloponnesian landscape became a place bristling with Olympian gods, local and Panhellenic heroes, legendary, pseudo-historical figures and wild, monstrous creatures that required suppressing and sometimes violent, even deadly control – much like the land itself. Archaeology has also greatly contributed to our present-day under-

Hercules and the Hydra, by the Renaissance painter Antonio del Pollaiolo, tempera on wood (ca. 1475, Uffizi Gallery, Florence).

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standing of Peloponnesian beliefs and cults. Over the past century, temples and sanctuaries have been discovered which were dedicated to Zeus and Hera at Olympia; Poseidon at Isthmia; Apollo at Corinth and Bassae; Athena (or Hera) at Mycenae; Aphrodite at Kenchreai and Acrocorinth; Asclepius at Epidaurus, Corinth and Messene; Heracles at Nemea; and the list goes on… Heracles and Pelops were the most prominent heroes of the Peloponnese, but other great characters – good and evil – also became familiar names. Theseus, the beloved Athenian hero, was born at Troezen in the Argolid. Medea, the Eastern princess who returned from gold-rich Colchis with her Greek husband Jason, settled at Corinth, where she infamously killed her own children. Bellerophon, the Corinthian master of the winged horse Pegasus, slew the fire-breathing Chimaera (a lion-headed goat with a snake’s tail) and defeated the Amazons. Sisyphus,

Heracles’ fame rapidly spread outside the Peloponnese, with the Argead Dynasty of Macedonia also claiming descendancy from the divine hero.

MY THOLOGY

a legendary king, was said to reside on Acrocorinth. He is best remembered for religious irreverence and his resulting punishment in the Underworld: condemned to endure perpetual struggle by repeatedly rolling an enormous boulder up a hill. At Isthmia, Melicertes, the son of a divine Theban princess, arrived on the back of a dolphin and became a worshipped protector of sailors. Local funeral games in his honor eventually were transformed

he extended hospitality to Telemachus during the young man’s quest for his long-missing father Odysseus. Local myths flourished throughout the Peloponnese, as every little corner and community boasted their own divine associations and preferred mythological traditions. Such lesser-known stories are exemplified at Tegea, where the temple of Athena Alea, decorated by the 4th century BC sculptor Skopas, presented a scene of the Calydonian

into the Panhellenic Isthmian Games. Homeric characters still haunt many corners of the Peloponnese. Mycenae was ruled by Agamemnon, who sacrificed his own daughter Iphigenia to reach Troy and was himself brutally slain by his wife Clytemnestra. The murderous cycle continued, as she too died at the hands of her son Orestes, aided by his sister Electra. Earlier, the saga of the Trojan War and its eventual aftermath had started further south, in Sparta, where king Menelaus had lost his queen, Helen, to Paris. Another Homeric figure, Nestor, reigned at “sandy Pylos,” where 48

At Isthmia, Melicertes, the son of a divine Theban princess, arrived on the back of a dolphin and became a worshipped protector of sailors.

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boar hunt (east pediment) and the battle of Telephos, son of Heracles, against the Achaeans in northwest Asia Minor (west pediment). Two favorite ancient stories were the Amazonomachy (Battle of Greeks against Amazons) and the Centauromachy (Battle of the Thessalian Lapiths against their rude neighbors, the Centaurs), both of which symbolized the ancient Greeks’ victorious struggle to civilize the strange, often monstrously violent natural world. Well known from the Parthenon in Athens, these two myths also appear in the architectural

1. Bellerophon on Pegasus, by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo; fresco (1746-1747, Palazzo Labia, Venice). 2. Panorama with the Abduction of Helen Amidst the Wonders of the Ancient World, by Maerten van Heemskerck; oil on canvas (1535, Walters Art Museum, Baltimore). 3. Pelops and Hippodamia; terracotta plaque (27 BC – AD 68, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York).

MY THOLOGY

decoration of Peloponnesian temples. The Amazonomachy was portrayed in the Ionic frieze of the Apollo temple at Bassae, as well as on the western pediment of the Asclepius temple at Epidaurus and around the proskenion (stage) of the theater at Corinth. The Centauromachy could also be seen in the Bassae frieze and in the western pediment of the Temple of Zeus at Olympia. The opposite, eastern pediment of this Olympian temple was a showcase

hero – recognizable for his lion-skin cape, wooden club and bow and arrows – appeared on Geometric and early Archaic vases, while his status as a demigod was secure by at least the late 6th century BC. Heracles’ origin in the northeastern Peloponnese is demonstrated by his lineage, as the son of Zeus and Alcmene, princess of Mycenae, and by his 12 labors, assigned by Eurystheus, the mythical ruler of Tiryns or Argos. His first six missions are set in

for one of the region’s greatest heroes, Pelops, who had fallen in love with Hippodamia, daughter of Oenomaus, the king of Pisa in the western Peloponnese. Oenomaus would wed his daughter only to a suitor who could defeat him in a chariot race. Oenomaus always won, until Pelops bribed Myrtilus to sabotage his master’s axle pins. After Oenomaus was killed, Pelops married Hippodamia and became ruler of the entire region. The most celebrated hero of the Peloponnese, and of the whole Greek world, was Heracles. Images of the

the general vicinity of his native Argolid. Driven mad by jealous Hera, Heracles killed his own family, then, for atonement, was tasked with near-impossible feats. First, he slew the Nemean Lion and decapitated the nine-headed Hydra of Lerna. Afterward, he captured the Erymanthian Βoar in northwestern Arcadia and the Golden-Horned hind of Mt Cerynea in nearby Achaea. For his fifth and sixth labors, Heracles cleaned the dung-filled stables of King Augeas of Elis, then killed the Stymphalian birds in Corinthia. These six labors may have implied

the expansion of Argive ambitions and the regional popularity of Heracles’ cult. The Dorian rulers of Sparta, Argos and Messene all sought legitimacy by claiming descent from Heracles’ sons (Heracleidae). Heracles’ fame rapidly spread far and wide, with the northern Greek Argead Dynasty of Macedonia (700-310 BC) also claiming the divine hero as their progenitor. Today, however, the fabled Spartans, aided by Hollywood, seem to have eclipsed even Heracles and once again to have exerted their dominance as the mighty heroes of the Peloponnese.

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TIME LINE

SHOTS OF HISTORY 1600-1100 BC

Peak of Mycenaean civilization and its centers (Mycenae, Tiryns, Pylos), which dominate the Aegean world. Pictured, the Cyclopean masonry of Mycenae’s Late Bronze Age citadel.

Paleolithic era (Before ca. 10,000 BC)

End of the Early Helladic centers, arrival of new tribes and creation of new settlements by a ProtoGreek speaking population.

735-715 BC

First Messenian War between Sparta and Messenia. Sparta becomes a leading power in the Peloponnese. Pictured here, a bronze figurine of a helmeted Hoplite warrior about to throw his spear (6th century BC, Worcester Art Museum, Massachusetts).

431-404 BC

Peloponnesian War between Sparta and Athens. Sparta emerges victorious.

4th century BC

Thebes defeats Sparta at Leuctra (371 BC) and Mantinea (362 BC). A few decades later, the Macedonians rule the region (the trophy commemorating the Battle of Leuctra).

First Olympic Games held at Olympia. Pictured here, the stone starting line for foot races in the stadium at Ancient Olympia.

Early Helladic period (3000-2000 BC)

ca. 2000 BC

Greco-Persian Wars. The Spartans fight alongside the Athenians and other Greeks.

776 BC

First traces of human presence in the caves of Apidima and Kalamakia Mani (a view of Apidima Cave, today accessible only by boat).

The population expands, agriculture becomes more systematic and commerce increases. Larger, more powerful settlements emerge, such as Lerna and Tiryns.

492-449 BC

146 BC

The Romans conquer the Peloponnese, which is “merged” with areas of central Greece to form the province of Achaea. Pictured here, The Last Day of Corinth, 1870, by Tony Robert-Fleury, Musée d’Orsay.

Paleolithic era (before ca.10,000 BC) 1769-1770

The Greeks, incited by Russia, rise unsuccessfully against the Turks. Portrait of Alexei Grigoryevich Orlov, a key Russian figure in the 1769-70 uprising. (Anonymous, State Historical Museum, Moscow).

1687

Francesco Morosini, who would shortly afterward become Doge of Venice, captures the Peloponnese from the Turks, making it a Venetian province. The peninsula is retaken by the Turks in 1715. Pictured above, detail of an engraving with a portrait of Francesco Morosini (Leipzig University Library).

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1821

Start of the War of Independence in the Peloponnese, which leads to its liberation. Bishop Germanos of Patras Blesses the Flag of Revolution (1865, Theodoros Vryzakis, National Gallery-Alexandros Soutzos Museum).

1829

Ioannis Kapodistrias is installed as governor (head of state) in Nafplio, the first capital of the newly established Greek state, but is soon assassinated in 1831. Commemorative statue of Ioannis Kapodistrias, in a public square of Nafplio.

1833

Otto, the second son of King Ludwig I of Bavaria, lands at Nafplio as the first king of Greece. The Entry of King Othon of Greece into Nauplia (1835, Peter von Hess, Neue Pinakothek, Munich).

B Y J o h n L e o n a r d & V ASSI L IS MI N A K A K IS

AD 395

The Roman Empire is split in two. The Peloponnese becomes part of the Eastern Roman or Byzantine Empire. Detail of Saint Ambrose barring Theodosius I from Milan Cathedral (between 1619 and 1620, Anthony van Dyck; The National Gallery, London).

1204

Constantinople is captured by the Crusaders. The Franks occupy the Peloponnese, establish the Principality of Achaea and build imposing fortresses. The Venetians occupy strategic ports in the Peloponnese. Pictured, the Crusaders attacking Constantinople, from a Venetian manuscript of Geoffrey de Villehardouin’s history (ca. 1330).

1460

The Ottoman Turks become the new rulers of the Peloponnese. By the early 16th century they have seized the last Venetian strongholds (Methoni, Koroni, Navarino, Monemvasia, Nafplio). The conqueror of Constantinople and the Peloponnesos, Sultan Mehmed II (Sarayι Albums, Topkapi Palace Museum).

AD 690

The Theme (district) of Hellas is established, which includes part of the Peloponnese. The entire peninsula becomes a single theme ca. 800. Coin portraying the founder of the Hellenic Theme, Justinian II (7th cent. AD) Numismatic Museum of Athens).

1259

Following the Battle of Pelagonia, Byzantine forces retake the castles of Laconia. In 1348, Mystras becomes the capital of the Despotate of Morea and develops into a major center of culture and the arts. A relief-carved plaque displaying the Byzantine imperial eagle, in the Metropolis at Mystras.

2004 1875-6

Large-scale archaeological excavations commence at Olympia and Mycenae. View of the east side of the temple of Zeus at Olympia during the excavations of 1875-1876. Portrait of Heinrich Schliemann, excavator of Mycenae and “father” of Greek archaeology.

1936

The year of the Berlin Olympics, for which the flame is lit for the first time at Ancient Olympia, with the aid of a concave, a German-made mirror borrowed from the University of Athens.

1939

Archaeologists reveal the “Palace of Nestor” at Pylos, which is found to contain hundreds of tablets inscribed with Linear B script. Clay tablet bearing Linear B script, from the Palace of Nestor (National Archaeological Museum, Athens).

1880-1893

The Corinth Canal is built. Hordes of workers aided by giant mechanical excavators cut the canal through the Corinthian isthmus in the late 19th century.

2004

Inauguration of the 2,880m-long Rio-Antirrio bridge, linking the Peloponnese with western mainland Greece. Its official name, the Harilaos Trikoupis Bridge, pays tribute to the prime minister who first suggested the bold project in the late 19th century. Four massive caissons support the bridge’s delicate superstructure, as it gracefully spans the Corinthian Gulf.

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Mycenae & Tiryns

The Mighty Citadels Palace complexes protected by formidable stone walls attest to the advanced engineering skills of the Mycenaeans and provide an intriguing glimpse into life in the Peloponnese in the Late Bronze Age. BY JOHN LEONARD

The Lion Gate (ca. 1250 BC), the oldest example of monumental sculpture in Europe. Its four massive stones weigh more than 60 tons.

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View of the interior of the Treasury of Atreus, by Edward Dodwell,1834. (Source: Aikaterini Laskaridou Foundation – Travelogues).

he Cyclopean-walled fortress at Mycenae ranks among the most awe-inspiring places a visitor can experience in the Peloponnese. Especially at times or seasons when few fellow travelers happen to be present, the quiet majesty of the enormous stone-built defenses and singular natural setting seem even more to evoke the former power of this strategically positioned citadel – once inhabited by kings, queens, warriors and priests during the great Late Bronze Age era of Greek heroes. Mycenae has something for everyone: for the pragmatic viewer, it is a massive military bastion erected by social elites to control surrounding lands and peoples, including the almost equally impressive, secondary fortress at Tiryns some 15k to the southwest. For the more romantic, literary visitor, Mycenae represents a celebrated hilltop palace whose praises were once sung throughout the Greek world, around which still swirl the timeless stories, myths and distinctive personalities recounted by Iron Age bards and Classical playwrights. Homer, Greece’s earliest known epic poet, who may have lived sometime between the 8th and 6th centuries BC, describes Mycenae in his Iliad (Books 2, 4, 7) as a well–founded citadel, “wide wayed” (with broad streets) and “golden.” That 54

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Mycenae was once a military bastion and celebrated palace, around which, today, still swirl timeless stories, myths and distinctive personalities.

1. The stepped descent to Mycenae’s underground reservoir was built inside the citadel’s walls to provide water in case of siege. 2. The entrance (dromos) to the “Treasury of Atreus,” actually a majestic, domed tholos tomb. 3. The sketch artist of The Illustrated London News drawing the Lion Gate of Mycenae (engraving, sometime between 1842-1885. Source: Aikaterini Laskaridou Foundation – Travelogues).

Mycenae was indeed a city of gold is immediately apparent to visitors of the Bronze Age Gallery at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, where many golden objects – especially the so-called Mask of Agamemnon – remind us of the riches once enjoyed by this site’s noble residents. At Mycenae itself, as one approaches and passes through the Lion Gate (erected ca. 1250 BC), the wideness and grandeur of the prehistoric castle’s entrance also leaves a lasting impression. It is similarly from Homer that we first hear the name of Agamemnon, the ruler of Mycenae, who led his army to Troy. His domain, Homer recites, incorporated many islands and all of Argos, as well as territory stretching in the opposite direction toward “wealthy Corinth.” Founding legends for Mycenae relate it was ruled by two successive dynasties (Perseides, Pelopides), established respectively by the hero Perseus and Atreus, two grandsons of an earlier regional dynast, Akrisios. Perseus reportedly first settled at Mycenae after his scabbard tip auspiciously dropped onto the rocky hill. He is also credited with discovering the natural spring (Perseia) that eventually fed the fortress’ all-important underground fountain, still to be seen today (by flashlight) down a dark, narrow flight of stone steps descending

The so-called “Mycenaean,” a fresco from the Cult Center at Mycenae (13th cent. BC; National Archaeological Museum, Athens).

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Mycenae & Tiryns

Bronze dagger with a lion hunt inlaid in silver and gold, Mycenae (National Archaeological Museum, Athens).

some 18 meters into the earth. The gigantic wall stones visible around the Lion Gate, as well as those at nearby Tiryns, are said to have been placed there by the Cyclops at Perseus’ bidding. Mycenae’s later ruler Agamemnon and his brother Menelaus (king of Sparta) were the sons of Akrisios’ other grandson, Atreus, whose name in modern times has been linked to the site’s largest, best-preserved Mycenaean “beehive” tomb. For archaeologists, Mycenae also represents the “birthplace” of Greek archaeology, where, in the 1870s, Heinrich Schliemann began excavating in search of his beloved Homeric heroes and unearthed the golden death mask of “Agamemnon.” Schliemann’s finds, and those of subsequent excavations led by respected archaeologists including Christos Tsountas, Alan Wace, George Mylonas and Spyros Iakovidis, have revealed a complex, multi-phase site first fortified ca. 1350 BC. Inside the walls, are the royal cemetery (Grave Circle A); houses likely belonging to prominent officials, priests, military leaders and favored nobles; a typical Mycenaean palace (megaron) with a throne room containing a large circular hearth; royal apartments; and special workshops. Outside the walls, in addition to an excellent site museum, are Grave Circle B; ivory and perfume workshops; common Mycenaean residences; and numerous “beehive” and other tombs, including the so-called grave of Clytemnestra and “Treasury” of Atreus. The latter’s construction, with its massive lintel block (120 tons), highlights the advanced engineering skills of the Mycenaeans – also evident in a stout stone bridge to the left of the road as one returns to the village of Mykines, in a second bet-

The golden funerary mask of “Agamemnon,” discovered in Grave Circle A, Mycenae (National Archaeological Museum, Athens).

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ter-preserved example beside the Nafplio-Epidaurus road and in the still-towering walls and corbeled archways of Tiryns. Like Mycenae, the hill of Tiryns had already been inhabited for more than a millennium when its enormous defensive walls (some almost 7 meters thick) were erected in the 14th12th centuries BC. The Upper Citadel featured a palace complex with a monumental gateway, a central court, a characteristic megaron and a network of private apartments with baths, light wells and drains. Also of interest are two arched galleries (possibly storerooms) and an unusual, circular building of Early Helladic date (2400-2300 BC) partly preserved beneath the later royal megaron. Schliemann excavated Tiryns, followed by Greek and German archaeologists. The Lower Citadel held residences, workshops and cult areas. Common folk lived outside the walls, where two nearby tholos tombs also indicate a royal cemetery. Colorful wall paintings from Tiryns offer an intriguing glimpse of well-coiffed Mycenaean ladies and a boar hunt with dogs.

Info M y c e n a e : Mykines (Prefecture of Argolida) • Tel. (+30) 27510-76585 • O p e n i n g H o u r s : From November 1 to March 31: 8:00-15:00 • April: 08.00-19.00, May until October 31: 08.00-20.00 • A d m i s s i o n : Full: €8, Reduced: €4 Special ticket package: Full: €8, Reduced: €4 • Ticket is valid for the Archaeological Site, the Museum and the Treasury of Atreus

The Mycenaean “Warrior Vase,” once used for mixing wine at banquets (National Archaeological Museum, Athens).

An elaborate rhyton (drinking cup), produced from hammered gold, in the shape of a lion’s head (National Archaeological Museum, Athens).

Celebrate life in style and elegance We welcome you to the Alkyon Resort Hotel & Spa complex, in Vrahati, Corinth. Built in an area of 25,000 m2 surrounded by lush gardens, it is an oasis of serenity and luxury for its guests. It offers luxurious accommodation, health and wellness, catering, event and conference planning services. The ultra-modern facilities of the awarded Spa center have been designed according to high quality standards and they include an indoor heated swimming pool, 6-persons heated Jacuzzi, Turkish bath, 2 Saunas, Spa jet, Gym, Hair salon, Anti-ageing department, 5 individual treatment cabins, Spa Suite, Aromatic whirlpool bath and a Spa Boutique.

A DV ER TO RIA L

The hotel has fully equipped, state-of-the-art, highly customizable venues, while providing quality services, in order to ensure prestige and success for every professional event. All venues fulfill the demanding requirements of conferences, business meetings and weddings all year round. Vrahati is a popular destination among tourists, located just 120 km from Athens airport. Our hotel is located 80 meters from the wonderful Vrahati fine-pebbled beach with crystal clear waters, and very close to unique archeological sites and the mountainous region of Corinth, an ideal spot for short or longer breaks every season of the year.

Alkyon Resort Hotel & Spa GR 200 06 Vrahati, Corinth, Peloponnese Tel. +30 27410 52010, +30 210 6425393 www.alkyonhotel.gr

Ancient Olympia

Idealism Meets Reality

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Home to the ancient Olympic Games and one of Greece’s most revered archaeological sites, Olympia still challenges scholars with its fascinating dark side. BY John Leonard

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Ancient Olympia

1. The lighting of the Olympic torch before the modern games by the High Priestess. The ceremony takes place in the temple of Hera at Ancient Olympia, opposite the Temple of Zeus.

2. Detail of a black-figure amphora, depicting a long-jumper at the moment he releases his jumping weights (halteres) and lands in the pit (British Museum, London).

lympia, home to the ancient Olympic Games and one of Greece’s most revered archaeological sites, stands in the western Peloponnese as a compelling reminder of past achievement, diplomacy and religious devotion. Nowadays, our understanding of the life and rituals that once thrived at Olympia is changing. In contrast to an often idealistic view of ancient Greek sport, a more balanced perspective is emerging that draws our attention to the telling evidence of Olympia’s own richly preserved ruins and colorful history. Since the launch of the modern Olympics more than a century ago, the athletes of ancient Olympia have frequently been characterized as amateurs, competing in an international, conflict-free, uncommercialized environment, admirably pursuing athletic excellence in accordance with the values of piety, endurance and humility. A fuller, more accurate picture – advanced by revisionist scholars such as Donald Kyle, Alfred Mallwitz and Catherine Morgan – instead emphasizes the local, religious and austere nature of the early Olympic games; the occasional military and political intrusions; the ubiquitousness of peddlers and other profit-seekers; and the professionalism of the often highly-trained competitors, whose primary interest was winning, to gain prizes and other rewards. Also notable is the surprising brutality and potential deadliness of some events; the erotic appeal of the athletes; and the

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readiness of participants to embrace cheating and corruption – against which the judges (Hellanodikai) had always to be on their guard. This fascinating dark side of the ancient Olympics includes a particularly notorious case of imperial rule-bending and self-glorification. After the Roman Emperor Nero managed to change the schedules of the major games at Olympia, Isthmia, Nemea and Delphi in AD 67, he “competed” in all four Panhellenic festivals and was awarded a total of 1,808 victory crowns! His list of events included lyre-playing, singing, acting, oratory and four-horse chariot-racing – in which he himself used 10 horses. Later, Olympia’s officials declared the games invalid – but only after the infamously murderous emperor had removed himself to the Underworld. Sanctuaries in ancient Greece, exemplified by Olympia, were clearly defined precincts dedicated to one or more gods, within which one would

find altars, temples and small shrines, as well as a typical array of associated buildings that accommodated the needs of pilgrims, athletes and other visitors. The heart of Olympia’s sanctuary was the Altis: the central, sacred area containing the now lost Altar of Zeus; the Doric temples of Zeus, (ca. 470-457 BC), Hera (ca. 600 BC) and Cybele or Rhea (Metroon, early 4th century BC); and the Precinct of Pelops (Mycenaean, renovated in the early 5th century BC). The formal sanctuary was established during the 10th-8th centuries BC, while the earliest games are traditionally dated to 776 BC. Large-scale competitions did not appear until about a century later. Through the Classical era, the sanctuary’s focus remained the worship of Zeus, with only the simplest measures taken to provide for athletes and spectators. Gradually, however, the emphasis changed and the games became more elaborate and important,

An artistic representation of the ancient Olympic Games, in Hellas: The Life of the Ancient Greeks (1887), by Jacob von Falke (Source: Aikaterini Laskaridou Foundation – Travelogues).

Athletes at ancient Olympia have often today been characterized as amateurs, competing in an international, conflict-free, uncommercialized environment.

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The Philippeion, initially built by Philip II, king of Macedonia, after his victory at Cheroneia (338 BC), and completed by his son Alexander.

as reflected in the site’s architectural development. By Hellenistic and Roman times, the sanctuary and its surrounding area featured a gymnasium, palaestra, stadium, hippodrome and leschai – athletes’ clubhouses. Visitors’ accommodations included hostels, baths, stoas (colonnades) offering protection from the weather, and ceremonial dining halls, the grandest of which was the Leonidaion with 80 rooms and a central peristyle courtyard. Official buildings included the Bouleuterion (council/court house), where judges and athletes swore to participate fairly in accordance with the rules. The “Zanes” statues, however, paid for by dishonest athletes and placed outside the stadium’s entrance, indicate that not all competitors adhered to their vows. Of special note are the buildings that recall the far-reaching cultural and po62

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litical significance of Olympia. On a terrace overlooking the Altis was a row of small treasuries, erected by city-states from all around the ancient Greek world to house precious dedications. Just beside them was a tall, statue-adorned nymphaeum (fountain house), donated by Athens’ Herodes Atticus or his wife Regilla (mid-2nd century AD), which provided a welcome source of water. Further west, Philip II constructed a circular Ionic/Corinthian heroon (after 338 BC), which showcased the Macedonian royal family and his own newfound dominance over Greece. Outside the Altis, Pheidias’ workshop offers tangible evidence of the sculptor’s industrious efforts at Olympia, where he produced a gigantic, chryselephantine cult statue of Zeus (ca. 430 BC) that presided over the sanctuary for some 800 years and became one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

The Nike of Paionios, a dedication by the Messenians and Naupaktians after their victory over the Spartans in 421 BC (Olympia Archaeological Museum).

Ancient Olympia

The running track in the stadium at Olympia, with the reserved VIP area visible on the opposite grassy slope.

Hermes with the Infant Dionysus (ca. 330 BC), attributed to Praxiteles (Olympia Archaeological Museum).

The “Zanes” statues, paid for by dishonest athletes and placed outside the stadium’s entrance, indicate that not all competitors adhered to their vows.

Events at the ancient Olympic Games consisted mainly of foot races (some in full armor), equestrian contests, the pentathlon (discus, javelin, long jump, foot race, wrestling), boxing and the pankration – the last two of which could leave competitors severely disfigured or even dead. No boxing gloves were worn, while the pankration’s rules barred only biting and eye-gouging. Olympia’s museums should also not be missed. The Museum of the History of the Ancient Olympic Games contains statues, painted vases, inscriptions and other illuminating artifacts related to ancient athletics. The Archaeological Museum offers many impressive displays, among them the pedimental, Severe Style sculptures (early 5th century BC) from the temple of Zeus. The east pediment depicted a scene from 64

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the mythical chariot race between Oenomaus and Pelops, while the west featured centaurs fighting with Lapiths (the Centauromachy). The temple’s metope panels portrayed the labors of Heracles. Other displays include the magnificent Parian-marble Hermes and the Infant Dionysus, produced, or at least inspired, by the 4th-century BC sculptor Praxiteles.

Info A n c i e n t O ly m p i a : Olympia (county of Ilia) • Tel. +(30) 26240-22517 • O p e n i n g H o u r s : Summer 08.00-20.00 (autumn and winter closing times vary). • A d m i s s i o n : Full: €6, Reduced: €3 Special ticket package: Full: €9, Reduced: €5 (Valid for both Olympia and the Archaeological Museum)

Bronze figurine, from a Laconian workshop, likely representing a victorious athlete (mid-6th century BC, Olympia Archaeological Museum).

ANCIENT Corinth

A Commercial and Cultural Crossroads A visit to the impressive remains of one of ancient Greece’s greatest cities speaks volumes about centuries of fluctuating decline and revival. BY JOHN LEONARD

owadays often associated with the travels of Saint Paul, Corinth, with its majestic adjacent acropolis of Acrocorinth, was one of ancient Greece’s greatest cities, located at a key commercial transshipment spot and military chokepoint – the narrow isthmus connecting the Peloponnese to the rest of mainland Greece. Around 600 BC, a paved pathway, the Diolkos, was laid across the isthmus to allow ships to be easily transferred between the Saronic and Corinthian gulfs. Equipped with ports at Kenchreai and Lechaion, Corinth was a gateway and major EastWest trading center that also developed a flourishing 7th- and 6th-century BC industry for the production and exportation of its own distinctive pottery. Although occupied from Neolithic times (mid-7th millennium BC) and probably home to a Mycenaean palace during the Late Bronze Age (second half, second millennium BC), Corinth’s most visible, best-known remains date from the Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic and especially Roman periods. Al66

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ways closely connected to maritime trade and the prosperity it could bring, Corinth established colonies at Kerkyra (Corfu) and Syracuse (Sicily) in the 8th century BC, which became significant trading stations and far-flung outposts of Greek culture. Unlike more democratic Athens, Corinth was long ruled by elite oligarchies and powerful tyrants, including Cypselus and Periander. Its troubles with Kerkyra and opposition to Athens led it to play a key role in the start of the Peloponnesian War (431-404 BC), while its strategic location and prominent involvement in this and numerous other subsequent regional struggles ultimately made Corinth a prime target for invading Romans – who burned the city to the ground in 146 BC. A century later, shortly before his assassination in 44 BC, Corinth was revived by none other than Julius Caesar, who had certain commercial and personal investment interests in the Greek East. Corinth returned to prominence, prosperity and a life of occasionally in-

Although occupied from Neolithic times, Corinth’s best-known remains date from the Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic and especially Roman periods.

Ancient Corinth: in the foreground a finely carved Corinthian capital, with the Temple of Apollo behind.

1. View of Acrocorinth, an extensive castle with ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian and Turkish construction phases. 2. Intricately patterned, colorful glass vessels in the Archaeological Museum of Ancient Corinth.

3. Mosaic floor with Dionysus’ head, from a Roman villa. Second half of the 2nd century AD (Archaeological Museum of Ancient Corinth).

famous indulgence under the Romans, noted by Paul during his visits in the mid-1st century AD. Struck by severe earthquakes in later Roman times, Corinth entered centuries of alternating decline and revival, occupied successively by Byzantine imperial forces, crusading Frankish lords, Byzantines again, Ottoman Turks, Venetians and lastly Turks again, until the 1820s when the Greek Revolution finally brought independence to the Peloponnese. The ruins of Ancient Corinth, covering an extensive area southwest of the modern town, include a sanctuary of Asclepius, a Greek and Roman theater, an odeon, the rock-cut Glauke Fountain and a temple dedicated to the 68

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revived city’s founding family, the gens Julia. Most prominent, however, among the remains brought to light in ongoing excavations by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens since 1896, is the Doric temple of Apollo, with its heavy, Archaic-style columns (ca. 550 BC), which overlooks the ancient city center, the agora, and a shop-lined section of the paved road leading to the Lechaion port. A second main artery would have begun on the south side of the agora, connecting the city to coastal Kenchreai, while further south on the rising slopes of Acrocorinth lay the Sanctuary of Demeter and Kore, a place of dedication and scenic ritual dining. High above, the peak’s summit – with

Marble sphinx (lion with bird wings, human head), from a funerary monument, resting on its haunches. Traces of decorative paint are preserved on its torso and wings. A Corinthian product, mid-6th century BC (Archaeological Museum of Ancient Corinth).

4. Gated entrance to the castle of Acrocorinth. 5. Statue of a man in armor, from the Julian Basilica, 2nd quarter of 2nd century AD (Archaeological Museum of Ancient Corinth).

its abundant natural spring (Upper Peirene Fountain), temple of Aphrodite, Ottoman mosques and especially its crenellated fortification walls and numerous gates – offers a bird’s-eye view of the entire surrounding landscape and an architectural panorama of the imposing defenses erected by Corinth and its successive foreign invaders. Of particular interest for visitors today are the many structures that once adorned the heart of the city: the central marketplace or square known as the agora. Many of these now-excavated buildings have foundations, pavements and sometimes colonnaded or arched superstructures that are partly preserved and increasingly being reconstructed, conserved and made more presentable to the public. A recent focus of such works has been the area beside the museum, containing a small Frankish-era (13th century) chapel and hostel or inn that, according to Corinth

Excavations Director Emeritus Charles K. Williams, once served the sick and the poor, as well as pilgrims on their way to or from the Holy Land. On entering Corinth’s agora, one passes through a line of small temples facing onto the square, once dedicated to deities and heroes including Tyche and possibly Heracles, Poseidon, Hermes, Apollo or Aphrodite. Among these shrines was also a circular monument of eight Corinthian columns, erected by Gn. Babbius Philinus, a local official and affluent Corinthian benefactor. Flanking other sides of the agora were rows of shops in colonnaded stoas; the facade of a two-story basilica decorated on its upper level with Caryatid-like columns depicting barbarian captives; the monumental gateway (propylon) of the Lechaion road; another basilica honoring the imperial Julian family; and, along the south side, the enormous South Stoa, with more shops, the Bou-

leuterion (Council House), the gateway to Kenchreai and a third large basilica. Two especially noteworthy Corinthian monuments are the tribunes’ Bema in the central area of the agora, where Paul stood in judgment, and the (lower) Peirene Fountain, a six-arched public well house with grotto-like reservoirs and a three-apsed forecourt, magnificently refurbished by Athens’ Herodes Atticus, which marked the terminus of one of Corinth’s most important watercourses. The legends associated with this fountain – reputedly named after a mournful woman transformed into a spring, dedicated to the Muses and frequented by Pegasus – along with the city’s numerous other springs, including the newly discovered (2012) Fountain of the Lamps, remind us of well-watered Corinth’s abundant natural advantages and of the ancient Peloponnese’s ubiquitous mythological traditions.

Info A r c h a e o l o g i c a l M u s e u m a n d S i t e o f A n c i e n t C o r i n t h • Tel. (+30) 27410-31207 • O p e n i n g h o u r s : Winter: 08:00-15:00 • April 3-30: 08:00-19:00 • May 2 - October 30: 08:00-20:00 (Times may vary) • A d m i s s i o n : Full: €6, Reduced: €3 • Tickets are for both the Museum and the Archaeological Site. Discount tickets (3€) for special categories of visitors.

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Ba s sae

The Parthenon of the Peloponnese

Inside an enormous protective tent, stands one of the most impressive ancient Greek temples, dedicated to Apollo Epicurius.

uilt in the 5th century BC, the temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae, southeast of Olympia, represents one of the most innovative temples ever constructed in ancient Greece. The measures taken to protect it in more recent times and today’s ongoing restorations, led by Ministry of Culture engineer-architects Constantinos Papadopoulos and Vasiliki Savvatianou, can similarly be noted for their inventive, progressive approaches. First explored and plundered by English architect-artist Charles Cockerell in 1811-1812, the temple was part70

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ly reconstructed in 1902-1908 by the Greek Archaeological Society. It now stands inside an enormous protective tent (erected in 1987) that curiously contrasts with its timeless pastoral setting in picturesque Arcadia. Bassae’s temple was originally designed by Iktinos, one of the Parthenon’s architects, and given unique, near revolutionary features that included a north-south orientation (not eastwest); an elongated (6x15), Doric-style, external colonnade; an Ionic colonnade in the cella whose columns were engaged, projecting diagonally from the

Long affected by subsidence and weathering, the venerable stones of the Bassae temple are being conserved and restored through stateof-the-art techniques.

1. The temple of Apollo Epicurius, as it appeared before the protective tent was erected in 1987.

2. Visitors to the temple find a cathedral-like environment that inspires reverence and respect for achievements past and present.

3. A scene from the Amazonomachy at Bassae: Amazons stand over a fallen Greek and carry off their wounded (British Museum).

side walls; and a single Corinthian column – the earliest known of this style – placed at one end of the cella in the spot usually occupied by the cult statue. Additionally, an elegant sculpted frieze, depicting the Amazonomachy and Centauromachy (now in the British Museum), ran around the upper, interior walls of the cella – not around its exterior, which instead was decorated with a Doric frieze. Only the short sides of this outer frieze featured metopes carved with figural scenes (Apollo’s return to Olympus; the abduction of the Messenian princesses by the

Dioscuri), while the long sides were left unadorned. The temple’s triangular pediments similarly were given no sculptural decoration. Long affected by subsidence and severe weathering, the venerable stones of the temple at Bassae have since 2001 been undergoing conservation and restoration works that involve stateof-the-art techniques, including the

use of improved earthquake-sensitive joinery. Initial disassembly is also revealing previously unseen non-eroded surfaces and new constructional clues that may point to a date earlier than the traditional estimate of 420-400 BC for this non-canonical temple – which Papadopoulos concludes was not only an architectural wonder, but an engineering achievement. - J.L.

I n f o T e m p l e o f A p o l l o E p i C u r i U s : Bassae, Figaleia • Tel. (+30) 26260-22254, 26240-22529 • Open: 08:00-Sunset (Summer), 08:00-15:00 (Winter) • A d m i s s i o n : €3 G R E E C E IS

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ANCIENT ME S SENE

Refuge and Renaissance

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The ongoing archaeological excavations and reconstruction of Messene represent one of the most ambitious, impressive programs of its kind in Greece.

essene, an expansive, pleasant, park-like archaeological site in the southwestern Peloponnese, was one of ancient Greece’s greatest Classical, Hellenistic and Roman cities. Unmistakably a mainland settlement, with its sweeping colonnades of predominantly Doric style, Messene’s richly preserved cityscape and dramatic setting overlooked by Mount Ithome nevertheless call to mind similarly striking eastern Greek urban centers such as Priene. The robustness of Messene’s fortification walls, however, a circuit reaching some 9 kilometers in length, points to the distinctly Peloponnesian needs of this community, which lived also in the shadow of a fearsome, once-powerful neighbor: Sparta. The people of Messene had every reason to take precautions when they founded their city in 369 BC. Only two years earlier, the Theban leader Epaminondas and his Boeotian forces had defeated the Spartans at the Battle of Leuctra. Messene and its contemporary neighbor Megalopolis were to serve as fortified strongholds that would deter Sparta from regaining its former regional hegemony. The Messenians had long endured as Sparta’s helots, until – after rebellions, banishments and allout wars – they succeeded in establishing their own city, where they could at last enjoy freedom and allow their culture to flourish. As Messene prospered through the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC, it came to be an elegant monument to Messenian independence, a vibrant center of far-reaching fame that attracted both prominent and humble

The Asclepieion, once an elegant colonnaded public square, whose foundation in 214 BC marked the start of Messene’s democracy.

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The western colonnade of the Gymnasium, part of a larger athletic complex that included a stadium and palaestra (wrestling facility).

Messene’s Archaeological Museum showcases Classical, Hellenistic and Roman sculptures that once adorned the elegant city.

The marble-floored Ekklesiasterion within the Asclepieion complex, where smaller theatrical performances and public assemblies were held.

travelers during Hellenistic-Roman times. Messene’s ruins also drew medieval and early modern tourists, many of whom published engravings of the city’s overgrown, picturesque landscape. The present-day excavations and reconstruction of Messene, directed since 1987 by Petros Themelis, represent one of the most ambitious, impressive such programs in Greece. Themelis has overseen not only fruitful archaeological investigation, but also large-scale restoration and presentational refurbishment projects that have resulted in an extraordinary archaeological park featuring white-limestone monuments set among verdant grassy lawns. Themelis’ finds, with those of previous investigations that stretch back as far as the Greek Archaeological Society’s original 1895 expedition, have revealed an array of public and private structures, including the city’s theater, a vast, colonnaded marketplace (agora), numerous temples and small shrines, a monumental fountain, an athletic

complex adorned with more than 150 columns and an extraordinary coneroofed family tomb. During their approach to the site, generations of visitors have first encountered Messene’s imposing city walls, towers and circular Arcadian Gate, with its huge fallen lintel. Today, the small archaeological museum is also not to be missed, with its splendid examples of statues that once adorned Messene’s buildings and streets. Further downhill, the theater (3rd century BC) is notable for its multi-phased scene building (skene). The earliest skene was apparently wooden and movable, as stone-cut tracks for wheels are visible at its eastern end. On the left-hand side of the agora are the low remains of the “Treasury House,” where, in 183 BC, Philopoemen, the captured general of the Achaean Confederacy, is believed to have been confined and later poisoned by the Messenian general Dinocrates. The Asclepieion complex, at the heart of ancient Messene, consisted of a

large Doric temple dedicated to Asclepius, surrounded by four Corinthian colonnades (stoas). Here one finds shrines dedicated to Artemis, Tyche, Epaminondas, Heracles, Apollo and the Muses. Opposite are the Ekklesiasterion (a small theater and political meeting hall), the Bouleuterion (council house) and the State Archives. According to Themelis, the Asclepieion’s foundation in 214 BC, during a period of civil strife and nationalistic fervor, marked the end of oligarchic rule and the establishment of democracy. It also commemorated the city’s Theban foundation. Especially striking are the re-erected columns of the Gymnasium/Stadium area and a finely restored mausoleum, resembling a small, prostyle Doric temple, which served as a funerary monument for the prominent Saithidae family (1st century BC). Nearby, an earlier family tomb, Funerary Monument K3 – a square enclosure, covered with a conical roof supporting a Corinthian column capped with a bronze sculpture – is unique in Greece. - J.L.

Info A n c i e n t M e s s e n e : Mavromati-Ithomis, Mavromati (Prefecture of Messinia) • Tel. (+30) 27240-51201 • O p e n i n g H o u r s : Summer: 08:00-20:00 October 30–to March 31: 09:00-17:00 • A d m i s s i o n : Museum: Full: €2, Reduced: €1 • Ancient Site: Full: €4, Reduced: €2 • Museum and Site: Special ticket package: Full: €5, Reduced: €3

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Ancient Messene

A DV E R TO R I A L

National Bank of Greece, conscious of its duty toward society at large, is proud to undertake and embrace the role of custodian of the country’s rich cultural heritage, which, together with modern-day artistic activity, comprises the essence and deeper meaning of Greek culture. Accordingly, NBG is an enthusiastic sponsor of the excavations and restoration work at the site of Ancient Messene. Besides its scientific importance and archaeological interest, the archaeological work accomplished over the course of many years at Ancient Messene by Professor Petros

Themelis has acquired special significance for the region of Messenia and comprises one of the largest and most comprehensive archaeological sites in Greece. This ancient site has become both a point of reference and an international attraction, displaying remarkable adaptability to new circumstances and open to people of all ages. NBG’s decision to support, through sponsorship, the excavations and restoration work in Ancient Messene has been fully vindicated by the highly successful management of the site and its individual monuments.

Indeed, the archaeological site of Messene has proved to be a shining example of how best to manage and showcase Greece’s cultural heritage. It hardly needs emphasizing that, in this current period of economic crisis, we should all seek to coordinate our efforts to foster collaboration and forge common ground on the basis of which we can effectively understand and resolve the key problems of our country.

National Bank of Greece gained a Silver Award at the Hellenic Responsible Business Awards 2015 in the Culture – Athletics / Large Enterprise category for its long-running sponsorship of the excavations and restoration work in Ancient Messene.

HE ROE S

MAKERS OF HISTORY Great men of politics, war, history and the arts who shaped developments in the Peloponnese through the ages.

Periander

Leonidas

Praxiteles

Pausanias

Ruled ca. 627-587 BC

ca. 540-480 BC

4th century BC

2nd century AD

The great but controversial leader of Corinth, viewed by some as a strict, cruel and violence-prone tyrant – both in his public and private life – or as a wise, educated, ambitious ruler, a patron of the literary arts and founder of colonies, who also subjugated Epidaurus and Kerkyra (Corfu). Periander developed his city into a stable, prosperous commercial hub, read and wrote philosophy and poetry, enriched Corinthian cultural life and oversaw the building of many Doric-style public buildings and the crossIsthmus Diolkos.

Leonidas served as king of Sparta during the 10 years preceding the Battle of Thermopylae (480 BC) – where he ultimately met a heroic death as the tough, unrelenting leader of the Spartan 300 and other ill-fated Greek forces in their struggle against the Persians. Plutarch portrayed him as arrogant, but also as a philosopher, who claimed that men prefer a glorious death to an inglorious life, because the first is Nature’s gift, while the second is within their own control.

The creator of graceful, smooth-surfaced sculptures with naturalistic, S-curving controposto positions, usually depicting more youthful gods. His most famous work is the daring, progressive Aphrodite of Knidos, the first full female figure shown completely nude and the most widely copied ancient statue. The introspective Hermes with baby Dionysus at Olympia is viewed as either an original work (ca. 330 BC) or – due to various incongruities – as a Roman copy generally true to the art of the Late Classical master sculptor.

Thanks to Pausanias, the post-Hadrianic Greek traveler who toured Athens and many other cities or outlying areas, including the Peloponnese, we have a much clearer picture of the life, landscape, popular myths and stories and other common beliefs of the ancient Greeks. Pausanias kept or later recorded a travel log that sometimes serves as the only source of detailed topographical information for both major and minor archaeological and other historical sites. His use of knowledgeable local guides makes his account particularly full and colorful.

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Pausanias was especially moved by the Apollo temple at Bassae: “Of all the temples in the Peloponnese, this... might be placed first for the beauty of its stone and for its symmetry.”

Constantine XI Palaiologos

Theodoros Kolokotronis

Ioannis KapodiStrias

Heinrich Schliemann

He is one of the leading figures of Greek history, a fascinating character who has been associated with a plethora of legends and traditions. The son of an emperor, he succeeded his father as head of the Byzantine Empire in 1449. While still a young man, he helped liberate the Peloponnese from the Franks and was named despot of Mystras. His abilities in warfare and politics, however, were not enough to stop the conquest of Constantinople by Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II. He died heroically in the battle on the city’s wall.

Born under a tree in Messinia to a family of Klephts, he went on to become the most emblematic figure of the Greek War of Independence, starting with a spectacular victory at the Siege of Tripolitsa in 1821. Illiterate but brilliant, outspoken, a fierce warrior and an astute politician, he distinguished himself for his strategic skills. His helmet symbolized the spirit of freedom and Greece’s ancient heritage. He held several prominent posts, but his involvement in various civil wars between different Greek factions saw him end up in prison twice. He died of a stroke after a ball hosted by King Otto.

He studied medicine and practiced it, gratis, in his homeland of Corfu, but his fascination for politics and diplomacy soon took him elsewhere. The “saint of politics,” as his admirers knew him, showed initial signs of diplomatic genius in 1803, when he was appointed chief minister of state of the Septinsular Republic (Ionian islands). He also distinguished himself as an envoy and foreign minister of the Russian Empire. He served as Greece’s first governor after it’s liberation from Ottoman rule and was instrumental in organizing the new state. He was assassinated by political rivals outside a church in Nafplio.

Considered by many as the father of Greek archaeology, Heinrich Schliemann was an impassioned Hellenophile who dared to believe that Homer’s stories of the Trojan War were based on a genuine age of heroes, which he could unearth tangible traces of at sites including Mycenae, Tiryns, Orchomenos and Troy itself. He employed the scientifically minded architect Wilhelm Dörpfeld, but was himself an unscrupulous businessman, a self-promoter and something of a rogue who may have contrived the discovery of “Priam’s Treasure.”

1770-1843

1776-1831

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PE LO P O N N ES E

T H E GRAN D TOUR

The Peloponnese, with its amazing diversity, natural monuments and rich culture, οpens up to the world and reintroduces itself as one of the most exciting destinations in the Mediterranean. View of Pylos by Francesco Perilla, Éditions Perilla (1929), courtesy of the Aikaterini Laskaridou Foundation – Travelogues

HIGHLIGHTS

CORI

Different Perspective Hike up the giant monolithic rock of Acrocorinth, crowned by impressive ruins and home to a profusion of flowers and plants.

Wine Appeal Visit Nemea, southern Greece’s viniculture capital, acclaimed for its ruby, velvety wines made from the Agiorgitiko grape.

Seasons in the Sun The Gulf of Corinth, accessible by suburban rail from Athens, offers water sports, glorious swimming spots and scrumptious seafront meals.

Not Only a Casino Drive to Loutraki, historically famous for its curative waters and more recently for its casino resort, and then relax at the captivating Heraion temple.

The chapel of Aghios Fanourios on Lake Doxa, in Feneos.

AT A GLANCE Corinth was renowned as one of the most powerful and affluent cities in Greece during Hellenistic and Roman times, and a deft hand at commerce (olive oil, currants and wine being major exports, as they are today). The economic rewards have been enduring, with the Corinth Canal, a significant feat completed in the late 1800s, being a popular passage for vessels sailing between Mediterranean and Black Sea ports. Tourists still stop at the canal to marvel at the steep cliffs plunging some 79m down to sea level. Since the creation in 2004 of the ‘Proastiakos’ suburban railway connecting Athens International Airport to Kiato via Corinth, the region has become much more accessible to foreign visitors and Athenian commuters alike. The railway is also an affordable and safe option for brief excursions: be it a refreshing dip in the Gulf of Corinth, a sojourn in Nemea, southern Greece’s wine capital, a stroll through history in Ancient Corinth and, for nature lovers, a bracing hike on Mount Ziri, or bird-watching at the Lake Stymphalia wetland, habitat to 143 species of birds.

NTHIA Bird-watcher’s Paradise Visit Lake Stymphalia, where Heracles defeated those vicious, man-eating birds, and don’t miss the brilliant Environment Museum.

Snow Queen Especially popular in winter, Trikala village beckons as a picturesque and cozy hangout for nature lovers.

Feneos’ finest panorama Admire the reflection of the surrounding mountains on the surface of the stunning, manmade lake of Doxa with its tiny chapel of Aghios Fanourios.

FOCUS | CORINTH CANAL

The power of vision Awe-inspiring to this very day, the isthmus constitutes a feat of engineering and was pivotal in developing Greece’s maritime trade. BY CHRISTINE STURMEY

Construction of the Corinth Canal was completed in 1893.

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1. Austrian daredevil and BASE jumper Felix Baumgartner takes on the Corinth Canal in 2004. The 79m drop from the highest point is a challenge for thrill-seekers from around the world.

2. A tug pulls a cruise ship through the Corinth Canal, which averages more than 12,000 transits per year.

hen thrill-seekers of the modern day stare down the cliffs of the Corinth Canal, they are likely gripped by the same intrepid desire to conquer nature that compelled the Roman emperor Nero to hack away at solid rock with a pickaxe in AD 67. Awe-inspiring to this very day, the canal, or isthmus, constitutes a feat of engineering and was pivotal in developing Greece’s maritime trade. The canal – a 6,343-meter-long gorge joining the Gulf of Corinth on the Ionian Sea side and the Saronic Gulf on the Aegean side – was inaugurated on July 25, 1893, as one of the crowning achievements of a state solidly on the path of westernization. That path, however, was anything but smooth and the story of the canal exemplifies the challenges of a country in turmoil, cash-strapped and dependent on foreign benefactors for its advancement. As Nero and before him the 7th century BC tyrant of Corinth, Periander, knew only too well, one of the keys to boosting Greece’s agricultural exports and maritime trade was reducing the distance goods had to travel, and smashing through the isthmus – the swathe of rock that kept the ancient land of Pelops attached to the mainland – was the way to achieve this. But it was not until 1830 that the project was assigned by the first head of the newly independent Greek state, Ioannis Kapodistrias, to a French engineer who was one of many proponents of Saint-Simonianism, a “civilizing” movement targeting “underdeveloped” nations through industrialization. 84

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Kapodistrias had ambitious plans for the country but little money to carry them out, so the idea was shelved until 1869, when the opening of the Suez Canal inspired Greek lawmakers to turn to a foreign consortium. The 99-year concession tender was picked up in 1881 by the Hungarian engineer István Türr, who had close relations with the developer of Suez, Ferdinand de Lesseps. Türr secured funding from French banks and hired French engineers, who had worked on both the Suez and Panama canals. Chief engineer Vincent Dauzats drew the canal plan according to Nero’s original study and early excavations found boreholes dating to the Roman’s original attempt.

3. Australian motor-cross stuntman Robbie Maddison jumps over the 85-meter-wide Corinth Canal at a height of nearly 100 meters in 2010. (Photo: Predrag Vuckovic for Red Bull Photofiles)

4. In this photograph from 1940, we see a worker at the Corinth Canal wearing a steel helmet to protect him from falling rocks.

Buoyed by the success of Suez and believing themselves to be on a historic mission, Türr’s engineers were optimistic that this diminutive version of their grand achievement would present no difficulties. But they ran into unstable ground, making their technical plans untenable and pushing up the cost. After seven years the bankers pulled out and the project was abandoned. Another attempt by the Greek state was successful enough to ensure its completion in 1893. Just 13 years later, however, the new consortium went bankrupt, leading to the creation of a new management body, which operated the canal until 1980. Since then it has been in the hands of the Greek state. Periander was wary of exacting the wrath of the gods and also lacked the technical capability to cut through the isthmus. Nero did manage to smash through 3,000 meters of rock on the Corinthian Gulf side but work was interrupted when he was called back to Rome to crush a rebellion. When the canal was eventually constructed in the 19th century, the state lacked the funds to broaden it, missing out on valuable revenue from its operation. And today, at 8m deep, 24.6m wide at the top and 21.3m at the bottom, it cannot accommodate larger cruise ships and freighters, though ambitious plans to widen it are under way. Nevertheless, the Corinth Canal remains a testament to the power of man’s

vision. Perhaps it is the fact that it is small – and somehow more human – that continues to inspire feats of daring and awe. “It is one of the most exhilarating adventures I have undertaken. As you approach the canal you can see the massive cuts made on the side walls that rise so high above,” writes one seafarer on TripAdvisor. “It was one of the most memorable flights in my life,” daredevil Hungarian pilot Péter Besenyei, a veteran and founding member of the Red Bull Air Race, said after flying through the canal in March 2014. And for bungee-jumping instructor Sotiris Pavlos of Zulu Bungee, plunging into the gorge is “like every first that you’ve built up to mythical proportions in your mind.”

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FOCUS I ZIRIA MOUNTAIN

ALPINE CORINTHIA Where in Switzerland could you find so many layers of history and myth, echoes of gods and legendary heroes, and a lake-side monastery whose abbot makes rose-petal jam?

BY DIANA FARR LOUIS

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Lake Doxa may be man-made and not even 20 years old, but it looks as though it’s been there forever.

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ang posters of the Alps and Mount Ziria side-by-side and you’d have trouble deciding which belonged to Switzerland and which to Greece. At least that’s what Greek travel brochures love to claim, as they try to wean tourists away from the more familiar sun, sand and sea holidays on the islands. This particular chunk of the Peloponnese boasts eight peaks – snow-streaked during the winter months, all higher than 2,000 meters – green plateaus, thick fir forests, three lakes and a smattering of chalets or chalet-like hotels. But where in Switzerland could you find so many layers of history and myth, echoes of gods and legendary heroes, and a lake-side monastery whose abbot makes rose-petal jam? To conduct your own investigation, start your adventures at Xylokastro on the Gulf of Corinth and head first to Ziria’s three main villages, Lower, Middle and Upper Trikala, whose name means “three good things”: abundant water, fertile soil and a healthy climate. When I initially discovered the mountain, also called Kyllini, in the

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early 00s, Athenians were turning it into an in-spot for weekends, using the villages as a base for trekking or offroad explorations in shiny SUVs. Comfortable small hotels sprang up among homes abandoned after the war and tavernas opened serving local cheeses, lamb chops and meaty stews with homemade pasta, for these were traditionally sheep-herding communities. Hearing tales of extreme beauty, we set off in our low-slung, not-so-spiffy car. At first, we were disappointed, not by the scenery but by the questionable esthetics of some of the local cement houses and dilapidated buildings, especially in Ano (Upper) Trikala. But in Mesaio (Middle) Trikala, we found an embarrassment of attractive stone pensions and ended up making friends with our 30-something hotel owner who’d given up Los Angeles for rustic serenity. The next day he handed us a map of hiking trails and off we drove to a wide plateau, where three of them begin. We had a choice of slogging up to the bald peaks (actually a fairly easy 2-hour hike), the knee-crippling descent of the

1. More marsh than water, Lake Stymphalia is nevertheless home to more than 140 bird species. 2. Attractive stone houses and hotels exist in all three Trikala villages, making them a good base for exploring the mountain. 3. Doxa means “glory” in Greek and the lake is glorious in any weather. 4. The Aghios Georgios Monastery at Feneos has much to offer, from icons and frescoes to magnificent views. 5. Autumn is a good time to visit Feneos and nearby Goura, where there are boutique hotels with blazing fireplaces on a misty evening.

Flambouritsa Gorge and a gentle, conestrewn path to the cave where Hermes was born to Zeus and Maia. Meanwhile, we had learned that Ziria is Hermes’ mountain and that his first deed after emerging from his birthplace was to fashion a lyre out of a tortoise shell and some strands of sheep gut. This peak’s name, Helidorea, commemorates this event. The wing-footed god later invented the pipes played by his son Pan in settings like this. Lacking a flashlight, we never did enter the cave, which has a tiny entran ce but opens up to 1,200 sq.m. of seven chambers where rare white stalactites mingle with brightly colored ones. Instead, we retraced our steps – no hardship when there were yellow tulips and scores of other wild flowers to photograph – and then drove up to a shallow Lake Dasiou. The word “Limni” (lake) painted in red on a breeze-block pointed the way. Be warned, though. In summer this lake resembles a dried puddle. You could spend a week following hiking trails, but after two days we took to our wheels and drove from Trikala over to Karya, which as the name im-

plies is one big walnut orchard, passing under giant reddish bluffs that looked more like Colorado than Switzerland, until we could see the Feneos valley. Framed on one side by Ziria and on the other by Helmos, it was obviously an alluvial plain in some remote era. Twenty years ago a sea of wheat rippled at window level, while now you might see fields of pulses, for the Feneos valley has since become known for its delicious organically grown beans, fava and even Beluga (black) lentils. Here the main attraction is not Ancient Feneos, of which no trace remains, despite the signs, but rather Lake Doxa. Created in 1997, by men not nature, it did not exist when we first came camping, sometime in the late 70s, but it has a timeless beauty. The stone church of Aghios Fanourios, which used to survey the plain from a round hill, now protrudes from water reflecting every shade of green. To the north, the red and robin’s-egg-blue walls of Aghios Georgios Monastery looked somewhat out of place amid the dense firs, but drew us like a magnet. Although little there is older than

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Covered in white during the winter months, Feneos is fast becoming a popular weekend destination.

the mid-18th century, every inch of the church walls was covered with vivid frescoes. Father Gennadios, the abbot who presided over two other monks, showed us the view and fed us spoonfuls of his own exquisite rose-petal jam. When he learned my origins, he said with a twinkle: “I haven’t been to America, but I’ve been to Australia and Europe, and believe me, nothing can compare with what we have here in Greece.” Moving slowly east from Feneos, after a delightful lakeside lunch, we followed sinuous roads to Kastania, another favorite weekend destination, to Oreini Korinthia’s (mountainous Corinthia) third lake. With its surface almost completely covered by reeds and grasses, Stymphalia is more marsh than water, owing to its fragile ecosystem. Unlike most lakes, it is a karst lake whose water level varies according to the season and occasionally vanishes altogether. Underground springs feed it and its bed contains swallow holes (katavothres in Greek) which at times suck the water back into the earth. Mythology lovers will remember it as the habitat of the frightening birds with iron wings, beaks and claws that Hercules subdued as his fourth labor. They fed on human flesh and when they flew, they blocked out the sun. These monsters have been replaced by some 140 bird species that make temporary or permanent homes in this southernmost mountain wetlands in the Balkans. Even if you can only spot a few, you can learn much more about them and the other denizens of the lake district, as well as the interaction of humans over the ages, in the exceptional new museum dedicated to the environment close by. The museum is part of the Piraeus Bank’s network of nine dedicated to traditional professions. Award winners, they number among the finest in Greece for both architectural design and content. For more material nourishment in the vicinity, so many tavernas offer suckling pig or spitted lamb you may have trouble deciding where to eat. But if it’s fondue you’re craving, then you’ll have to go to Switzerland. 90

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Lake Stymphalia

Mt Ziria/Kyllini

Scene of Hercules’ fourth feat is a wildlife refuge and home to a superb new museum dedicated to the environment (tel +30 27470-22296, open daily except Tuesdays). See also the battered remains of a medieval abbey left by the Crusaders on the foundations of a temple to Artemis.

The first name means “acorn” in a Slavic tongue, the second comes from the ancient Greek “kyllos” or cavity, and refers to the broad plateau that separates Mikri and Megali Ziria, both higher than 2,000 meters above sea level.

Lake Dasiou

Feneos

Close to the lake you can walk to Hermes Cave, up to Mikri and Megali Zriria, or down the Flambouritsa Gorge through unrivalled scenery, with spring flowers, autumn colours or even snow. There is a modest ski slope for beginners too.

A fertile valley amid thick forests and streams with a jewel-like Lake Doxa in its midst, and the Aghios Georgios Monastery above it, with its flower-filled gardens, 18th-century frescoes and “secret school” where children learned Greek history under the Ottomans.

Three Trikalas Ano, Mesaio and Kato (Upper, Middle and Lower), with their typical mountain squares canopied by plane trees and filled with cafes and tavernas. Their comfy boutique hotels with fireplaces and cozy lounges are welcome bases after a day exploring the mountain. If you can, avoid the weekends when they may be crowded.

The Venetian castle of Bourtzi (1473) in the harbor of Nafplio protected the city from sea invaders and pirates.

HIGHLIGHTS

Nafplio Experience History, architecture, beautiful views and romance abound in the first capital of the modern Greek state.

ARG Festival Nights Don’t miss a summer show at one of the two open-air theaters of Epidaurus, the perfect excuse for an excursion.

Cradle of Civilization Visit the kingdom of legendary Agamemnon and the cradle of Mycenaean civilization.

Seaside Posh Porto Heli, a cosmopolitan, five-star destination and the perfect base for trips to Spetses and Hydra.

AT A GLANCE A fertile land of orange orchards, kitchen gardens and olive groves, encircled by mountains and washed by the sea, Argolida (ancient Argolis) is further blessed with a mild climate all year round. These ideal geographical and climatic conditions had attracted humans to the region since as early as prehistoric times and facilitated the emergence of the remarkable Mycenaean civilization that flourished from 1600 to 1000 BC. Its decline has been associated with the invasion of Doric tribes from the north, who were followed many centuries afterward by the Romans and later by Venetians, Franks and Ottoman Turks. When the modern Greek state was founded Nafplio, the prefecture’s capital, was made the seat of government. Today, travelers choose Argolida for both quick getaways and longer vacations. From Mycenae and the Ancient Theater of Epidaurus to cosmopolitan Porto Heli, from shaded camping sites at Drepano and busy Karathona beach to more secluded stretches of sand at Kondyli, Argolida has something for everyone. Bus services are very frequent to and from Athens, and the drive to the city of Argos via the national highway is less than 2 hours.

OLIDA Mysterious Caves Explore the Franchthi Cave as well as the large and small caves of Didyma, which locals say were created by a meteorite, though geologists disagree.

Beach Life It’s all here, from developed beaches and isolated spots for nudism, to safe seas for the family and water sports galore.

FOCUS | NAFPLIO

A Town for All Seasons It’s no surprise that Nafplio is so lived in and loved, given its history and privileged setting.

B Y K e i t h S t u r g e ss

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bought a house in Nafplio 20 years ago. I wanted to take early retirement from my university job and eventually to live full-time in Greece. My love affair with Greece had started some years earlier. I had looked around the country and decided that the islands would be too quiet in the winter, too remote. To own an orange grove or vineyard had a certain attraction and various parts of the Greek mainland had their own particular appeal. But the Peloponnese seemed to have everything. And its historic capital, Nafplio, thrust itself upon me. Built on the slope of a small peninsula jutting into the Argolic Gulf and under the imposing fortifications of Acronafplia, it immediately transmitted its great character, charm and historic interest. And yet at the same time it was a small, compact place, obligingly spilling, by geographic necessity, the bulk of its 14,000-strong population into the adjacent New Town of Nafplio, which was built largely in the 20th century.

1. View of Syntagma Square. In the background, the small mosque (right), now a cinema, and the historic Hellas restaurant (left).

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2. Interior of the Archaeological Museum of Nafplio. The building once housed the armory of the Venetian fleet.

The house was a ruin, but it sat, and sits, at the top of the town looking out over the gulf, the shoreline and the mountain ranges in the distance. The view is simply magnificent, and the constant changes of color and light through the day and through the seasons enhance the effect. The house itself is architecturally typical of the Old Town – sturdily built in local stone, with a pitched roof of red barrel tiles, shuttered windows, balconies and paved pathways. The narrow streets of houses irregularly march across the side of the hill, closing together at the top as they adapt to the natural contours, more widely spread and neatly organized down below on more level ground, and this marks the development of the town itself from a first sheltering under the castle walls to an effusion of civic pride along the seafront. All this came about in stages between the 15th and 18th centuries, followed by further development on reclaimed land outside the seawall in the 19th century. Apart from this last

3. Picturesque alley in the Old Town of Nafplio. These narrow ascending paths usually lead to the walls of Acronafplia.

4. The beach of Arvanitia and the stone path that skirts the fortified promontory of Acronafplia.

5. Statue of the first governor of the modern Greek state, Ioannis Kapodistrias, in the square of the same name, with the Palamidi fortress in the background.

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stage, when a home-grown neoclassicism became the order of the day, the town is largely “Venetian” in style, though fine Ottoman buildings also survive from the four-and-a-half centuries of Turkish occupation. The house was made habitable in three years thanks to the good offices of a local builder. As quickly as we could, my wife and I moved in and became citizens of Nafplio, which quickly turned out to be perfect for us. There is of course a fine range of excellent hotels and tavernas, and the town is well attuned to the needs of visitors. But it offers so much more, for local residents too. In addition to several excellent museums, there are concert halls, theaters and all the rich cultural life that goes with them. There are libraries, a university faculty and a well-endowed, local archive for scholars and writers. All kinds of open-air activities beckon, and there is a 98

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well-appointed and attractive beach, Arvanitia, right below the Palamidi fortress, just five minutes from my house. Beginning at this beach, a romantic stone path skirts the fortified promontory of Acronafplia and ends at the harbor. And wherever you go, Nafplio’s two greatest assets are omnipresent. Firstly, the gorgeous topography and landscape of the town in its special setting, with the great crag of Palamidi to the east and the seascape to the north. Secondly, the eloquent presence of its vivid and turbulent past: for the town truly wears its history on its sleeve. You can see where Ioannis Kapodistrias, first head of state of newly independent Greece, was assassinated in 1831 (a bullet hole in the wall of Aghios Spyridon church marks the spot). Nearby is the country’s first pharmacy, whose owner embalmed Kapodistrias’ body to lie in state. In Kolokotronis

1. The Fougaro (3rd km. NafplioEpidaurus road). Once a canning factory, the completely renovated building now houses a library, art workshop, exhibition and concert areas, as well as a coffee shop. 2. The imposing Palamidi fortress. Named after the legendary hero Palamedes, it was built in a very short period of time by the Venetians (1711-14). 3. Street tables outside buildings constructed at a time when Nafplio was under the rule of the Ottoman Turks or the Venetians, or in the first years after liberation. 4. Wonderful colors, so characteristic of the Old Town of Nafplio.

Park is the magnificent equestrian statue, cast in Paris, of Theodoros Kolokotronis, one of the most revered commanders in the Greek War of Independence. Splendid Syntagma Square, there since medieval times under other names, sports an array of great buildings: a mosque from the first Ottoman period, now a theater, a mosque from the second period that became the parliament building, the Venetian naval arsenal, now a museum (see below) and a whimsical, interwar, Mycenaean pastiche which is the National Bank. Elsewhere is the stately Orthodox Cathedral, aglow inside with visual decoration, and the Catholic Cathedral, formerly a mosque, serving since King Otto’s time as a memorial to foreign fighters in the War of Independence. And then out of town, but still close at hand, you have the inestimable riches of the great archaeological sites of the north Peloponnese. Tiryns is right on the doorstep, Mycenae and Nemea are just up the road to the north, while a few miles east is the great theater of Epidaurus. And so Nafplio is a town for all seasons. Unlike the islands, it does not batten down the hatches in winter and send its workers away. Many here serve a tourist industry that never closes; others go about their business as shopkeepers, civil servants,

artists, teachers and so on. For Nafplio is a comparatively prosperous city with multiple sources of income and employment opportunities. It gets a little quieter in the winter but it never sleeps. Many days in the week I use some feeble excuse to wander round the town. I love its narrow alleyways, the more commercial streets with their colorful shops, the cascades of bougainvillea, the stately palm trees and pines. And it was wandering like this, often with visitors in tow, which led to my book Wandering in Nafplion, 2014. The town has an outrageous talent not just for being lived in but for being enjoyed and, yes, loved. The subtitle of my book is A Lover’s Guide.

Built on the slope of a small peninsula jutting into the Argolic Gulf and under the imposing fortifications of Acronafplia, Nafplio transmits its character.

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Archaeological Museum The modernized museum occupies the former Venetian naval arsenal on the main square. It houses objects from nearby Bronze Age sites – Tiryns, Midea, etc. Its star attraction is the Dendra cuirass. Found in 1959 in the village of Dendra, this is a suit of “Homeric” body armor.

The Land Gate

The Five Brothers

The footprint of the original defensive wall and moat on the east side of the town is clearly visible, leading back to the 18th century bastion, and the Land Gate, which was in use until the beginning of the 20th century, has been faithfully rebuilt on its original foundations. You can see the drawbridge mechanism and the cart-worn cobbles.

At the western end of the seafront is the best preserved stretch of the original sea wall with its gate. Above that is the great bastion, from the 15th century, called “the Five Brothers,” referring to five great cannons that protected the entrance to the harbor. To the right as you look to sea is the fortified islet called the Bourtzi (which can be visited).

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The Lion of the Bavarians The lion is located in the Pronoia area. It was commissioned by King Otto’s father, Ludwig, as a memorial to the Bavarian soldiers who died of typhoid in Nafplio in the 1830s. Six meters long, it is hewn from the living rock. In its unadorned simplicity it is strangely and utterly moving.

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FOCUS | E pidaurus

SPIRITUAL Respite in an Ancient Land In one of the most celebrated Asclepieions of the Classical world, theater was an integral part of the healing process. BY Alexia Amvr azi

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n recent years, eclectic travelers seeking to enhance their well-being as part of a memorable vacation experience have created a new international trend, wellness tourism. Twoand-a-half millennia ago, these same travelers would very possibly have headed for Epidaurus. In a way, this new trend marks a return to the wise practices of the ancient Greeks, who regarded disease as a multifaceted phenomenon to be approached through religion and medicine in parallel. In antiquity, people flocked to healing sanctuaries known as Asclepieions. There were around 30 such sanctuaries across the Mediterranean, including at Epidaurus. They were dedicated to the god of medicine,

Asclepius, who was said to appear to pa t ients during the curative dream ritual. The dream was interpreted by a priest-physician, who prescribed a cure. The Asclepieion of Epidaurus flourished from the late 5th Century BC to the end of the Roman Era. Pilgrimages there (leaving the city for the countryside was the first step in devotional travel) were based on rituals and practices performed by priests. “Upon arrival, patients would bathe, describe their symptoms and then drink a soporific potion (whose ingredients are unknown),” says the director of the Museum of Cycladic Art, Professor Nicholas Stampolidis, who curated the museum’s hugely popular exhibition 102

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“HYGIEIA: Health, Illness, Treatment from Homer to Galen,” which ran from November 2014 to May 2015. Epidaurus was one of the most celebrated Asclepieions of the Classical world. It grew over time, with a sanctuary, temple, altar, stoa, gymnasium, baths (there were also mineral springs), even a dining hall and a large hospice. In fact, as a destination, it had many of the facilities one might expect to find in a high-end spa resort today. Close by stood the theater of Epidaurus, which was an integral part of the healing sanctuary, for, as Professor Stampolidis points out, “performances were considered part of the therapeutic process since they were

1. Reconstructed columns from the stoa of the Abaton at the Asclepieion of Epidaurus (4th century BC). The Abaton was where patients were taken to sleep (enkoimisis) as part of the dream healing ritual. 2. Temple columns and entablatures which have been restored and are now displayed at the Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus. 3. Costumes designed by Denny Vachlioti for the performance Stage Walkers by acclaimed Greek director Stamatis Fasoulis. 4. View of the verdant settlement of Old Epidaurus (Palaia Epidavros).

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beneficial to all the senses, and could thus promote catharsis.” Patients are thought to have been “prescribed” to attend specific performances depending on their condition, and the theater’s incredible acoustics are believed to have been used for sound healing.

Not just about the past Although Epidaurus’ ancient past continues to draw and inspire visitors from all over the world, the nearby villages of New (Nea) and Old (Palaia) Epidaurus (Epidavros) are also beautiful, visit-worthy spots that are often overlooked by theatergoers and tourists. Apart from the well-preserved “Small Theater,” there is much more evidence of antiquity in the old town, while its layout has changed little since Homer described it millennia ago. Yet the extremely picturesque town offers a scenic and serene getaway for a day-

trip or longer. With Classical Greek roots but also an air of Italy’s elegant Amalfi Coast, its cobalt blue harbor fills with sailboats in summer. Here visitors will find abundant greenery, modern cafés, low-rise architecture, friendly, old-fashioned tavernas serving fresh seafood and several great swimming spots such as Gliati and Vayionas. Less than 10 kilometers from Old Epidaurus, at the foot of Mt Akrosa, is the new town, which is ideal for a stroll along its island-like, cobbled streets past charming, traditional homes. Nature lovers can explore Vothyla Gorge, swim in the blue-green waters of Polemarchas beach or take an invigorating trek along the pine-lined path along Yialou River, while history buffs can visit the impressive sites of the old Byzantine and Venetian castles, and the 11th century fortress-like Monastery of Agnountos.

Patients are thought to have been “prescribed” to attend specific performances depending on their condition and the theater’s incredible acoustics are believed to have been used for sound healing.

Famed for its exceptional acoustics, the Ancient Theater of Epidaurus is abuzz on festival weekends.

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Marble statue of Hygieia, goddess/personification of health, with the sacred snake on her shoulders (Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus).

THE THEATER & the museum For the past 60 years, audiences have been relishing the unique experience of watching plays and concerts in the remarkably well preserved Ancient Theater of Epidaurus, under the star-filled sky, exactly as people did over 2,500 years ago. Every summer, from June to October, a series of memorable performances are hosted at the theater in the framework of the Greek Festival. The theater, located within the archaeological site of the Sanctuary of Asclepius and with a seating capacity of 14,000, was first reused as a venue in modern times in 1938 with a staging of Electra, before being officially inaugurated in 1955 with Euripides’ Hecuba, directed by Alexis Minotis. The Epidaurus Archaeological Museum features a Statue of Asclepius, bronze medical eqipment, the side section of the Propylaea of the Asclepius temple and numerous other finds that bring Epidaurus’ past to life. Tel. (+30) 27530-220.09, 226.66 • Opening hours: Apr 1 Oct 31, Mon 13:00-20:00, Tue-Sun 08:00-20:00. Nov 1 - Mar 31, Tue-Sun 08:00-15:30

FOCUS | PORTO HE LI

A Treasure Hidden in Plain Sight The word “private” is key at this seaside resort, in both senses – privately owned and discretely experienced – which is why big players are taking an interest. B Y R i k a Z . Vay i a n n i

A regatta day at Porto Heli.

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hoever re-invented Porto Heli and its environs as the “Peloponnesian Riviera” was thinking, I suspect, more Cap Ferrat, less Monaco. Although the town proper evolved, like Saint Tropez, from a sleepy fishing village into a cosmopolitan destination, it did not, unfortunately, manage to keep the traditional charm of the villages of the French Midi, or the Italian coastline. The unsuspecting traveler can easily be fooled into mistaking the architectural and aesthetic mélange of the hectic town center for the inside real deal of “Heli,” as the locals call it. You only have to climb down a low hill, drive a short distance to Ververonta, Costa and Aghios Aimilianos, or ride a water taxi to understand what all the fuss is about: Majestic vacation homes, magnificent resorts, private beaches (the owner of one has famously imported powder-white sand to sprinkle over the bay in front of the hillside villa). You can’t help noticing the mega-yachts, the Riva classics or the equally expensive hand-crafted Greek kaikia (fishing boats). These latter are the creations of master craftsmen, with built-in home theaters, chef’s kitchens and other amenities that an actual fisherman would find, to say the least, shockingly interesting. And the word “private” is key here, in both senses – privately owned and discretely experienced. Now, if there is a sudden plumbing problem in your Porto Heli mansion, if you are currently remodeling and the interior designer is past his deadline, or the property is still (or forever) under construction, have no

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fear: Not one but two accommodation alternatives have recently sprung up in the area. The stunning AmanZoe, complete with 38 private cottages and communal grounds, opens its guarded gates up on the hill overlooking Kranidi, to the select few. I expected the full Aman feeling (a.k.a. died and went to Heaven) during the short walk-through, closely escorted by a management representative, who was ferociously protective of the privacy for all guests – even those who never leave their villas and choose not be heard or seen (was that Shakira? They will neither confirm nor deny). I did not flinch at the huge, almost monastic library or the open-space Acropolis Lobby with the reflecting pool that catches and beams back the incredible light of the place from dusk to dawn. I was not taken aback by the state-ofthe-art gym, the watsu therapy tank or Verde Guatemala marble-lined pool. I was unfazed to the point of being downright blasé at the sight of the miniature ancient Greek-style open theater, channeling the nearby Epidaurus festival, reserved for live jazz or classical concerts. I kept my cool. After all, this is Aman. One would be naïve to expect any less. It was the yoga room that made me gasp. Huge, completely bare, with a panoramic view of the untouched Peloponnesian landscape, olives and cypresses, blue sky and floating clouds, a spot so intensely spiritual that I almost felt my third eye open there and then – without as much as a single sun salutation. I needed a reality check, albeit not an ordinary one. On my way back to Porto Heli, on the outskirts of Kranidi, I stopped at the antique shop of “Poulcheria” (please, call the lady “Poly”). This is an Aladdin’s cave, charming, wondrous, chaotic. One can spend hours there, I always manage to find a piece of local history, affordable enough for me to take home: an old coal-burning iron to use as a doorstop, a vintage crochet from the dowry of some longlost housewife of ages past. This time I didn’t trust myself. After forty-five minutes in the parallel universe of 108

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You want to check in, unpack an obscenely large trunk of bikinis and caftans and never, ever check out.

AmanZoe, I may have just found myself calling my next-door villa neighbor (was it Shakira? They will neither confirm nor deny) to chat about shipping a few thousand dollars’ worth of a salvaged clay olive container for the Palm Springs cottage). Poly made me an omelet with local cheese and fresh bread, sliced a ripe tomato, drowned me in a huge mug of Greek coffee, revved up for a major gossip session, then suddenly realized that today it’s work, not pleasure, and, along with her darling of a husband, kissed and hugged and sent me on my way. I headed towards the beach. Nikki Beach. The second “fiver” in two years in the Heli area, and the first Nikki – of the world famous beach-party chain – that comes complete with a full, spectacularly located seaside hotel. “Nikki,” coincidentally, also sounds like “niki,” the Greek word for “victory.” There is a definitely a win-win situation here. The resort is open, happy, relaxed, vibrant and funky. You want to check in, unpack an obscenely large trunk of bikinis and caftans and never, ever check out. I have at times covered resorts that ticked all the right boxes, but I do not handle seclusion very well. The holiday jackpot of my dreams would be located right on the doorstep of an actual living town, preferably by the sea, with a breathtaking view and the option to get out and about on a whim: Mingle with the locals, grab a street meal, and hit

View from a Νikki Beach private suite and terrace.

1. The Porto Heli bay area is being reinvented as a new Riviera, with luxurious hotels and villas.

2. The gourmet experience is 24/7 at the Nikki beach Lobby.

3. Expensive hand-crafted Greek kaikia are the work of masters of traditional ship-building.

4. Sunset view from the pool deck of the AmanZoe hilltop hideaway hotel.

Take your pick between the luxury of a small private yacht and the beauty of traditional kaiki. A tough decision, indeed

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Treasure hunting in Poulcheria’s antique shop, on the outskirts of Kranidi.

The aristocratic island of Spetses, with its elegant arcitecture and horse-drawn carriage rides, is just a hop away from Porto Heli.

a bar or a pizza place around the corner. Nikki Beach is located in exactly one of those rare spots. In fact, they encourage their guests to explore. They offer names, mention new shops, pass secret tips, suggest fish tavernas at nearby Koilada, or hikes to the archaeological sites of Ancient Halieis and the Franchthi cave, or to the sleeping beauty of Ermioni, the nearby town. Mysteriously, I found myself unexpectedly reluctant to even leave the lobby. Maybe because the staff and management treat guests and visitors with the warm smile and the occasional joke you only share with a long-lost friend. Maybe because the chefs are insanely right-on regarding the yummy factor, any time of day. Perhaps the infinity pool right next to the sandy beach is just too good to exit. Maybe the music is too right: The DJs must be psychic or something, able to catch the vibe of the moment, leading the mood from sweet lazy chill to crazy dance-party to sunset romance R&B. Or maybe they are just a bunch of people who are damn good at their jobs. The smell of fall, the afternoon light, the olives fast maturing, fig trees in full fruit, fragrances of pine and rosemary, prepare the soul for the low season. As is so often the case throughout the Peloponnese, Porto Heli can be incred-

ibly charming in winter. We managed to locate two seaside hotels (Rozos Best Western and Edem Resort) that heroically struggle – and will stay open 365 days a year. The owners of Edem recently invested in building fireplaces in the rooms, to underpin the message that they mean year-round business. The message got through but, much to the manager’s disappointment, no client has ever used the fireplaces. Porto Heli’s mild Mediterranean climate is one of the best in Europe for enjoying the low season. In another country, the autumn months could easily pass as the height of summer. Winters are temperate, rarely too cold, sometimes exuding a sweet melancholy that evaporates with the first rays of generous, golden winter sunshine. The Porto Heli experience has a wonderful elephant in the room but I am not supposed to talk about the elephant here: Technically, the islands of Spetses and Hydra do not belong to the Peloponnese and certainly, they deserve exclusive coverage – they are both exciting destinations in their own right. It’s just that glamorous, historic, unspoiled Spetses is a one-minute water taxi ride away (or 20 minutes by sea bus for a 3 euro fee). As for Hydra, this living museum of an island, this Shan-

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gri-La of so many international famous artists, poets and musicians, is 30 minutes away, by taxi and boat. Spetses beams to the visitor in its entire splendor from the other side of the narrow strait. The majority of resorts in Porto Heli offer their customers free rides to both islands, effectively including them in the “Riviera package.” With all the affection and respect I have for the fabulous Mediterranean coastlines of Italy and France, last time I checked, there were no cosmopolitan, charming islands practically attached to the mainland. Original Riviera, you better watch out.

The smell of fall, the afternoon light, the olives fast maturing, fig trees in full fruit, fragrances of pine and rosemary, prepare the soul for the low season.

The Monastery of Timios Prodromos in Stemnitsa was built in the 16th century.

HIGHLIGHTS

Capital T In bustling Tripoli, visit the war and archaeological museums, the statue of Kolokotronis and the Church of St Basil.

Scenic seaside town Paralio Astros combines 10 kilometers of coastline with a picturesque town. Visit the 1893 lighthouse and the impressive Frankish castle.

ARC Mount Parnon After a good hike in lush landscapes, drink in mountain views by Aghios Petros’ imposing church, and visit the 18th Century Tower of Aga.

eggplant capital Among Greece’s oldest maritime towns, Tsakonia’s capital of Leonidio has its own Doric-derived dialect and unique folk traditions, as well as a celebrated eggplant variety.

AT A GLANCE Embraced by the mountain ranges of Mainalo, Parnon, Skiathio and Saita, Arcadia is an idyllic haven for nature lovers, history buffs, foodies and adventurers alike. After the collapse of Roman power in the west, Arcadia became part of the Greek-speaking Byzantine Empire, a period when the magnificence of its natural landscape inspired artists to depict it as the perfect vision of unspoiled wilderness and pastoral simplicity. Its widely – and wildly – varied landscapes of pine, chestnut and cherry forests, sparkling beaches, rivers, the stunning Lousios Gorge, ancient monasteries holding on for dear life to massive rock-faces and intriguing Frankish and Byzantine ruins, are steeped in mythology and history. In modern times, Arcadia is lauded for its heroic fight in the Greek War of Independence. Today, its inhabitants continue to live in tranquil villages featuring traditional, stone architecture, such as Dimitsana, Kosmas, Vytina and Stemnitsa, where visitors can find accommodations ranging from cozy, old-fashioned elegance to modern boutique style. An appealing location year round, with a hot climate in summer and cool, snowy weather ideal for skiing in winter.

CADIA ΑLTITUDE 1150M Kosmas village is lauded as the Peloponnese’s gem; listen to running streams, breathe in fir-fresh air, walk through its cobblestone streets and visit its folklore museum.

Gorge-ous ways Traversing the spectacular Lousios Gorge, visit scenic villages such as Karytaina, Stemnitsa and Dimitsana, as well as awe-inspiring landmarks like the Philosophos and Timios Prodromos Monasteries.

Aiming high Visit the mountain village of Langadia to learn about its famous stonemasons, Vytina for its therapeutic climate and Levidi for its quaint architecture.

FOCUS I mountainous arcadia

Where Utopia met the fire of battle

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There were no frolicking fauns on the pristine mountains of Arcadia in the 19th century; instead it stood at the vanguard of the Greek War of Independence. BY ALEXIA AMVR AZI

Picturesque Karytaina, known in the Byzantine period as the “Toledo of Greece.”

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1. A wood artisan in the village of Elati displays unique yet traditionally-made creations in his workshop, where a variety of decorative and utility objects are on sale. 2. Make sure to buy homemade local Arcadian products such as hilopites pasta to serve with stewed meat or rich sauces. 3. Women wearing traditional costumes in Stemnitsa, which is known for its weaving and embroidering customs. 4. Many of Arcadia’s village homes take you back in time. 5. A characteristic snapshot of Langadia village’s elegant architecture; the village is famous for the excellent masonry skills passed on through generations. 6. A monk at the 16th century Timios Prodromos Monastery.

The single-arch stone bridge of Atsicholos, built in the early 19th century by master craftsmen of Langadia, is a popular starting point for rafting on the Lousios River.

he fabled land of Pan, the pastoral Utopia that inspired Virgil to write Ecologues and Renaissance poets to wax romantic about rural life saw no frolicking fauns in the 19th century. Τhe Arcadian mountains were one of the main theaters of the Greek War of Independence (1821-1832), where the headquarters of the general who led the fight were ensconced and his army’s firepower was produced. Located in the center of the Peloponnese, Arcadia is best known today for its pristine natural environment and an abundance of religious, cultural and historic landmarks that make it a favorite autumn or winter retreat for Greeks and a must for foreign travelers “doing the Peloponnese.” By foot or by car, the mountains of Ar-

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cadia are best explored over the course of several days. You don’t want to miss its traditional villages, many surrounded by lush greenery and with beautifully preserved architecture, its landmarks and museums or its old-style cafés and tavernas. Stemnitsa, Vytina, Dimitsana, Langadia and Karytaina, perched like eagle’s nests on the mountains, are year-round attractions. What some of the more remote villages may lack in facilities they make up for in character. In Lasta for example, located 6 kilometers from Vytina, the staff-less café at the Church of Aghios Georgios invites visitors to help themselves to coffee or raki and hang out as long as they want, dropping a few coins in the donation box on their way out. On the left bank of the Lousios River at

You don’t want to miss the area’s traditional villages, many surrounded by lush greenery and with beautiful architecture.

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an altitude of 1,050 meters is Stemnitsa, a small town also known as Ipsous, nestled between the dense pine forest of Mount Mainalo and the yawning Lousios Gorge. Stemnitsa is a popular trekking destination, with natural paths flanked by cherry, plane and walnut trees. It is also an important religious tourism destination with no less than 18 notable post-Byzantine churches and an impressive Folklore Museum. Stemnitsa is most famous for its history. It was from here that General Theodoros Kolokotronis led the revolt against Ottoman rule and it served briefly as the country’s capital in the summer of 1821. A monument to the liberation fighters stands atop a hill near the Aghios Georgios bell tower. Another Arcadian village that played a prominent role in the Greek War of Independence as a major gunpowder producer supplying Kolokotronis’ army was Dimitsana, an amphitheatrically-built village on the western slope of Mount Mainalo, 960 meters

above Lousios Gorge. The village retains much of its traditional charm thanks to its restored mansions and stone houses, many built by the master masons of nearby Langadia. The OpenAir Water Power Museum showcases developments in hydraulic technology and how these contributed to the production of gunpowder in particular. Arcadia is also popular with adventure travelers, offering white-water rafting on the Lousios River, mountain climbing, hiking and paragliding, among other sports, though the most popular activity is trekking through the Lousios Gorge, declared a historical and archaeological landmark by the Ministry of Culture in 1997. The route through the gorge is quite challenging and even though it is very well sign-posted it is best tackled with a professional guide or as part of an organized group. You want to worry less about getting lost or injured and focus instead on enjoying the flora and fauna, the stunning rock formations and winding paths.

There are some interesting detours along the way that give an insight into the monastic life that flourished here in the 14th century. The monasteries of Philosophou and Prodromou are connected by a wooden bridge and both offer outstanding views of the mountains and the gorge below. You can also stop at Ancient Gortyna, a beautiful archaeological site with well-preserved Roman baths that once served as a resting place for travelers on their way to the Olympic Games and today hosts archery classes. For a refreshment or a meal, stop at any local taverna or kafeneio to connect with the locals and sample the cuisine. The choices are plenty, from a simple snack of pungent skordalia garlic sauce made with chickpeas, grilled sausage and bread with a small carafe of tsipouro, to hearty dishes like rabbit stew served with traditional village pasta or lamb baked with artichokes. For dessert, try the crispy diples (fritters) drizzled with honey or a spoon sweet with a cup of Greek coffee.

STOPS

MAINALO GEM © MYTHICAL PELOPONNESE, NIKOS KOKKAS

Known for its fresh pine-infused air and wholesome climate, Vytina’s time-honored grace makes it one of Arcadia’s hottest destinations. It is an ideal base for exploring the area, from the Ostrakina Ski Resort to the lush Mainalo Trail, thanks to its tourism infrastucture, including charming hotels, traditional guesthouses, tavernas and lively bars.

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Philosophou monasteries There are two in the area but only the later one, built in the 17th century, continues to operate. The earlier one was built into the rock in AD 963 and though abandoned is still fascinating. Some 800 meters downhill you will see an opening that leads to a small church which served during Ottoman occupation as a secret school that sought to preserve the Greek language and culture.

Stemnitsa School of Silver and Goldsmiths & Folklore Museum The museum boasts a fine collection of beautiful weaved and embroidered fabrics, ceramics, agricultural tools and home furnishings that educate visitors on the area’s customs, history, agricultural and daily life through the ages. The school hosts a large collection of gold, silver, copper and bronze objects that attest to Stemnitsa’s metal-working tradition.

FOCUS | LEONIDIO

DESCENDANTS OF THE DORIC TRIBES The people of Leonidio are proud of their heritage and this is evident as soon as you enter the town, where signposts are written in Tsakonian. BY L I N A K A P E TA N I O U

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A local woman from Tsakonia baking bread and pies in an outdoor stone oven.

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eonidio is a small Arcadian seaside town that marches to the beat of its own drum, the stopping point of the coastal road that runs through Nafplio and Astros before winding its way up the mountain to reach Sparta. Leonidio was once the capital of Tsakonia, a region comprising several villages and hamlets that are distinguished for their dialect, which appears to originate from the ancient Doric dialect, and customs reverently preserved to the present day. The people of Leonidio are proud of their heritage and this is evident as soon as you enter the town, where signposts are written in the Tsakonian dialect, with the Modern Greek translation below. The narrow streets of Leonidio are more conducive to walking or cycling and cannot accommodate large cars. But this is also the best way to explore its historical landmarks, beautifully renovated mansions and towers that date to before 1800. It is these towers and the neoclassical buildings from the 19th century that earned Leonidio protected status as a traditional village of historical importance. Named capital of Cynuria (Kynouria) in 1845, it evolved mainly thanks to its seafaring merchants who traveled far and wide, amassed wealth and built beautiful homes in their place of birth. Leonidio today has some 3,500 residents and is a relatively lively town with plenty of tavernas, cafés and welcoming lodgings. A long, straight road cuts across the small Leonidio plan leading to the seaport of Plaka, and it is flanked by orange and lemon groves, tomato and potato fields, as well as it most

A man repairs the roof of Panaghia Elonis.

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The coastal village of Plaka serves as Leonidio’s seaport.

Most of the streets that criss-cross Leonidio are flanked by small stone houses with pretty gardens.

FOCUS | LEONIDIO

famous crop: the sweet Tsakonian eggplant. Locals prepare this purple gem in myriad ways: stuffed, broiled, fried, baked with cheeses, puréed, as a pizza topping, in spaghetti sauce and wrapped in crispy fylo pastry. If you follow the road to the right, it will take you to Poulithra, a picturesque seaside village with a good selection of accommodation and eateries. The road then starts to wind up Mount Parnon, passing through small hamlets and magical landscapes. Despite the beauty of the mountain, with its stunning sea views, many of the villages are all but abandoned as the local people sought work on the coast or the country’s bigger cities. Most have just a handful of permanent residents, a few visitors at weekends and small establishments that double as the local café and taverna. Leonidio also marks the start of the road that leads to the mountain border of Arcadia with Laconia. The first stop on this route is the village of Kosmas. Located at an altitude of 1,150 meters, for years it served as a rest stop for travelers exploring Parnon on their way from Arcadia to Sparta. Resisting a short stop at Kosmas is hard when you encounter the beautiful village square, shaded by three massive, age-old plane trees and boasting a pretty fountain with three spouts gushing fresh mountain water, located behind the church on the side of the square. The atmosphere up here is so clear you can see all the way to the island of Spetses, and a number of cozy and inviting hotels and pensions have sprung up in recent years around the village center. These are popular for weekend romances, cuddled up by the fire, warming limbs chilled

by bracing hikes or off-road drives on Mount Parnon. Leaving Kosmas will bring you to the “100-day road” leading to Geraki in Laconia. The road was thus nicknamed because in 1951 the residents of the village decided to raise the money needed to make a proper road and managed, with a little help from the state, to complete the project within 100 days, welcoming the first car from Geraki. This is the road to take if you’re planning to continue with a tour of Laconia. The situation is much better in the village today, as it has a few dozen permanent residents in the winter and quite a few weekenders and tourists. The other villages in the vicinity are even smaller and more sparsely populated: Paleochori, Platanaki and Aghios Vassilis are tiny hamlets worth exploring along the trails that link them, offering a glimpse into the simple rural life. Life here proceeds at a slower pace for the locals, who grow what they eat and remain unaffected by modern trends both in their way of life and their culture.

Resisting a short stop at Kosmas is hard when you encounter the beautiful village square, shaded by three massive, age-old plane trees.

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Leonidio’s mansions

Monastery of Panaghia Elonis

Tsikaliotis Tower was built in 1808 and remains an impressive edifice with fortified walls and battlements. Polytimos Tower is a typical sea captain’s home built in 1816 with evident influences from the architecture of Spetses. Throughout Leonidio you will see impressive mansions and tower houses.

Built into a massive rock face, the monastery is impressive for its position and architecture. It is located about halfway on the road between Leonidio and Kosmas in a ravine formed by the Dafnon River. The church was built in 1809 but the monastery’s history goes all the way back to the 1300s.

Red Rock

Women’s Co-op

Leonidio is surrounded by imposing red limestone cliffs that are ideal for rock climbing. The view from the top is spellbinding, stretching from the Leonidio plain to the Argolic Gulf.

The ladies of Leonidio get together to make spoon sweets, marmalades, pasta and dry rusks using the freshest ingredients, all homegrown. You must try the sweet eggplant made with the local PDO-certified variety. They have a shop from which they sell their wares on the road that runs through Leonidio along the Dafnon banks.

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Home to vultures and resting stop for migrating birds, the section of Taygetus that forms the backbone of Mani is also known as Saggias.

HIGHLIGHTS

This is Sparta Visit the Archaeological Museum (tel. +30 27310215.16), the Ancient Acropolis, the Tomb of Leonidas and the infamous Kaiadas ravine near the village of Trypi.

All about Olive Oil A jewel of a museum, dedicated to the most emblematic of Greek products.

LAC

Going Medieval When visiting the fortress cities of Mystras and Monemvasia, don’t miss the lesser known but equally imposing Geraki.

The Mani Experience A stark landscape and stone tower houses tell the story of the bellicose clans that played a crucial role in the Greek War of Independence.

Exotic Beauty Dive into the crystalline waters of Elafonisos and bask on the golden sand.

AT A GLANCE Fans of Laconia visiting the bustling, agricultural city of Sparta don’t have much to explore which physically attests to its glorious past except the Archaeological Museum, the Tomb of Leonidas and also his statue where, today, Spartathlon athletes tend to collapse after running what equates to six consecutive marathons. The durability of ancient Sparta, once Greece’s dominant, Doric-indoctrinated land-power, continues to be reflected in the wild and rugged landscapes that surround it. Above it towers the Taygetus mountain range, which draws adventurers who hike, climb and paraglide among its cornucopia of flora and fauna. Like Sparta, Inner Mani, much of which was barely accessible by land until recent years, is also known for its resilient people, particularly the Klephts, mountain bandits who put up a powerful fight against the Ottomans. Today the region is admired especially for its castle-like architecture and crumbling Byzantine churches, with dramatic backdrops of the sea or stark rocky landscapes. It is also popular because of its medieval gems – the elegant and atmospheric fortress town of Monemvasia and the abandoned city of Mystras, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

CONIA Laconian Fjord Head east to Limenas Geraka and Kyparissi, both with an Aegean island air.

Parnon Hike Kick off at the Scholarcheio guest house in Polydrosos, a lovely village with fir trees and stone houses.

Neolithic Wonders Explore the caves of Diros and of Aghios Andreas in Kastania, as well as the petrified forest of Cape Malea.

Beacons in the Dark Travel right to the end of the Peloponnese, to the lighthouses of Tainaros and Malea.

FOCUS | Mys tr a s & Mone mva sia

vestiGes of an empire The great Byzantine castles of the Peloponnese remain alive and convey to visitors all the story of the past. BY Olga cHar ami

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Left, the Stellaki mansion, one of the oldest buildings within the fortress of Monemvasia, right next to the sea wall. Right, panoramic view of the Upper Town and Lower Town of Monemvasia.

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1. The main gate to the Mystras citadel. 2. View of the interior of Aghia Sofia, one of the Byzantine churches at Mystras.

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ld stone streets, noble mansions hundreds of years old, Byzantine churches, works of art: In the Medieval city-strongholds of Laconia, Mystras and Monemvasia, time seems to have stopped centuries ago — two of just a few places where such a description is no cliché. Here, you do not read history, you walk through it, touch it, experience it. It is all around. The two castles of Mystras and Monemvasia represented the core of the illustrious Despotate of Morea, the Byzantine Empire’s semi-autonomous province in the Peloponnese. The rocky, naturally-defensible islet of Monemvasia served as the initial seat of the region’s renewed Byzantine administration until 1262, when this role was transferred to Mystras — whose own impressive fortifications had first been built by the Franks some 13 years earlier. As militarily strategic locations, both castles were successively claimed or reclaimed by the Franks, Byzantines, Venetians and Turks, resulting in their changing hands several times during their history. Mystras’ authority was strengthened in 1349 when it became the capital of the despotate — essentially the entire Peloponnese. Although the Byzantine Empire was already beginning to collapse from external enemies and internal intrigue, Mystras was reaching its floruit, becoming one of the most important economic and cultural centers of Byzantium and offering the hope of rebirth to the rest of the empire. In the end, however, Mystras could only manage to prolong the empire’s life a little longer, to be its last “glimmer” and final stronghold.

1. The main square (Plateia Tzami, lit. “Mosque Square”) of Monemvasia, dominated by the bell tower of the Church of Elkomenos Christos (“Christ led away”). Behind it, the Church of Panaghia Myrtidiotissa or Kritikia. 2. A permanent resident of Monemvasia.

Today, as visitors stand facing the Hill of Myzythras, on which Mystras was built, one immediately grasps the significance of the place. Crowned with a mighty citadel and walls that descend around its Upper and Lower towns and their many painted churches, Mystras is rightly considered one of Greece’s greatest archaeological sites, worthy of its ranking as a UNESCO World Heritage Monument. Mystras is also distinctive for being a more-outlying, autonomous tourist destination, in comparison with other archaeological sites that can easily be visited during a single day trip. Consequently, more and more high-quality guesthouses and excellent restaurants are opening up in the surrounding villages of Neos Mystras, Pikoulianika and Parori. Access to the Mystras castle can be gained through either of two gates. Most visitors choose to enter through the Lower Gate that leads directly to the Lower Town; afterward, ascending

to the Upper Gate by car, they visit the Upper Town. In the Lower Town are several historic mansions and the site’s most important churches. Inside are precious works of Byzantine art, many of which are kept under lock and key for security reasons. Always open, however, is the Metropolitan church and the interesting museum housed in its courtyard. The museum features artifacts excavated in the town and strives to illuminate the connections and complex influences that once existed between Byzantium and the West. In the Upper Town stands the Church of Aghia Sophia, the famous Palace of the Palaiologoi (under restoration) and the fortress, from which the views of Mt Taygetus and the Evrotas River Valley are incomparable. Of course, visitors who choose to climb from the Lower to the Upper Town and the citadel, strolling on wellmarked paths, gain something even more special. The feeling of walking along historic, stone-paved lanes, sur-

3 & 4. Small alleyways, flights of stairs here and there, and a maze of vaulted passages make for a fascinating exploration of the fairy-tale town of Monemvasia.

The rocky, naturallydefensible islet of Monemvasia served as the initial seat of the region’s renewed Byzantine administration until 1262, when this role was transferred to Mystras.

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rounded by lush vegetation and absolute quiet is itself a monumental experience. In contrast to the tranquility of Byzantine monuments at Mystras and what the site’s information panels reveal, Monemvasia is — in the words of the great Greek writer Stratis Myrivilis — “a Mystras that lives on.” Monemvasia’s fortress, which has never ceased to be inhabited, is now home to around 10 families, Greek and foreign, who live here permanently; many more are daily commuters, who run guesthouses, tavernas, bars and tourist shops inside the walls. You’ll find all these easily on the main street — named after the celebrat-

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ed Greek poet Yiannis Ritsos, who came from here and whose house is open to visitors. This was the shopping street where medieval tavernas and cellars once kept prized stocks of Malvazia: Monemvasia’s famous local wine. Strict restoration guidelines have kept the fortified town in excellent condition. Not only does it have a storybook setting, but also a striking position: strangely perched on a giant rock joined to the rest of the Peloponnese by a causeway built in the 2oth century to replace a 6th century stone bridge that had 14 arches and a removable wooden section in the middle. After one crosses over and ascends through the gate, the fairytale begins. Wandering through the Lower City on lanes spanned by arches and vaulted structures (“dromikes”), where supplies are still transported by horses; the ascent along the “Voltes” (the fortified street leading to the ruined Upper Town); the Byzantine churches; oncegrand houses; Venetian coats-of-arms; and the Ottoman mosque —all take you back in time.

“It seemed to me a terrible beast, lying in wait,” is how the celebrated Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis described the hulking mass of Monemvasia.

In the architecture of these ageold buildings, you can read the entire history of Monemvasia, their stonework displaying visible traces of all the town’s conquerors. If you wish to live the experience to its fullest, however, it is worth roaming the castle from end to end and spending the night within its walls. Gaze out over the Myrtoan Sea; explore the venerated chapels; rest on the enviable rooftop terraces and in the small town squares; and follow every path —even if it leads nowhere, and even after dark, when lanterns only partly illuminate the mysterious shadows and you feel that from somewhere horses and knights are bound to appear.

FOCUS | Mys tr a s & Mone mva sia

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The Upper Town

The Forty Churches

Take “Voltes”, a fortified path snaking up the rock of Monemvasia. Unlike the lively Lower Town, the hill’s summit (once an aristocratic neighborhood) is characterized by absolute silence and stark ruins. The intact Gate House, however, the Church of Aghia Sophia (12th century) and the panoramic view of the castle and the sea are spellbinding.

Monemvasia is said to have 40 churches. Twenty-four of them have been documented and bear witness to the castle’s history, incorporating Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman elements. Of particular importance is the Christ Elkomenos (6th century), which once held the icon of the Crucifixion, considered the largest and most beautiful icon of the Palaiologian Renaissance.

The Main Square (Tapia)

MYSTRAS Churches

The Camera Museum

One of Monemvasia’s most popular spots, thanks to the sea view and spacious parapet suitable for a relaxing break in the sunshine. Here one finds the often-photographed cannon, the Church of Christ Elkomenos and the mosque which houses the archaeological collection. Tel. (+30) 27310-614.03).

The Byzantine churches of the Lower Town include the metropolis (Aghios Dimitrios), where the last emperor of the Byzantine Empire, Constantine XI Palaiologos, was sworn in; the Evangelistria; the saints Theodore and Hodegetria-Aphendiko; the Peribleptos; and the Monastery of the Pantanassa, still a home for nuns.

An original exhibition assembled from the personal collection of photographer Takis Aivalis, recipient of the Guinness Award; featuring fascinating cameras dating as early as the late 19th century; includes everything from wooden cameras to rapid-exposure cameras employed in war planes. (Neos Mystras, Tel. (+30) 6972-081.737)

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The South Wall and the Portello The easiest walk you can do in Monemvasia is along the south wall, between the city and the sea. Apart from the small squares you meet, you will discover the passage to the Portello, the only sea gate through which goods were once transferred and today an ideal spot for swimming.

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HIGHLAND PRIDE The spirit of the warriors that once lived and fought here continues to live on in what is one of Greece’s most enigmatic regions.

BY JANE FOSTER

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A view of Vathia, the finest example of a fortified Maniot village, comprising 70 residences, four churches and two defensive towers, all built between 1840 and 1900.

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ven for most Greeks, the Mani is considered a remote and mysterious region, a step into another world. A 75k-long peninsula, with a spine formed by the rugged Taygetus mountain range, it is inhabited by a proud warrior people who claim to be direct descendants of the ancient Spartans. For centuries, the Maniots fended off the Turks, while the rest of Greece was absorbed into the Ottoman Empire. Still today, the Maniot flag bears the words “Victory or Death,” as opposed to “Freedom or Death,” which is used in the rest of the country. Because, throughout the course of history, the Mani has never lost its freedom. Arriving from Kalamata, the seaside village of Kardamyli appeared surprisingly peaceful with a sleepy square, planted with mulberry trees and rimmed by cafés, where the older menfolk talk politics over coffee. Kardamyli lies in the shadow of the Taygetus mountains, overlooking the Messinian Gulf. We walked up to the uninhabited hillside village of Old Kardamyli, entering through an arched gateway, to explore a cluster of sturdy Maniot tower houses and a church. The Maniots are known throughout Greece for their tra-

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ditional dwellings, built three or four stories high, with flat roofs and tiny openings for windows. From the 14th until the late-19th century, families here were embroiled in blood feuds and these tower houses, grouped closely together in fortified villages, offered shelter from rival clans waging vendettas. At one time, there were over 50 Maniot villages made up of these extraordinary houses. As the sun began to set, the limestone buildings took on warm

orange and purple hues, and we walked back down to the coast for supper. The next morning, we hiked the lower slopes of the wild Taygetus mountains, following a steep rocky path through woodland and past several magnificent little sandstone Byzantine churches. We returned through the spectacular Viros Gorge, tracing the route of the dry river bed, scattered with huge smooth white boulders, and inhabited by goats and birds of prey.

1. Stone is the predominant element in the architecture of Areopoli, Mani’s historical capital. 2. Gerolimenas, one of Mani’s most picturesque settlements. 3. The lighthouse at the cape of Tainaro or Cavo Matapa, the southernmost point of mainland Greece. 4. A view of Kardamyli in the Messinian part of Mani. 5. Anargyros Mariolis, known by locals as ‘The Baby,’ sits on the stone mill wall displaying the wild onions he collected from nearby fields. 6. The Mourtzinos-Troupakis stronghold and the Church of Aghios Spyridonas in Old Kardamyli.

From the bottom of this steep-sided canyon, we looked up and followed a strip of deep azure sky back down towards the sea and civilization. South of Kardamyli lies the region’s only sizeable beach resort, Stoupa. Due to modest tourism, this former fishing village has expanded over the last few decades and now has a sprawling periphery of modern concrete houses. It’s certainly not as pretty as Kardamyli, but it does have much better beaches.

We stopped at the sandy cove of Kalogria, backed by tamarisk trees and overlooked by three seafood tavernas. It was here that Cretan writer Nikos Kazantzakis lived in 1917 and met the character who was to inspire Zorba, the freedom-loving protagonist in his novel, Zorba the Greek . There is a bronze bust of Kazantzakis, mounted on a grey marble plinth, above the beach. Now it was time to pass from the Outer Mani, with its picturesque cy-

presses and mulberry trees, lush olive groves and green gorges, to the Inner Mani, where the landscape becomes far starker and more arid, and the rugged slopes support huge rocks, cacti bearing prickly pears, and little else. In fact this, locals claim, is the “real” Mani. Tellingly, the border town of Areopoli takes its name from Ares, the ancient Greek god of war. We stopped for coffee in a cobbled side street and discussed the fact that the first move to liberate Greece from the Turks began in Areopoli on March 17, 1821. It was from here that the local Maniot chieftain, Petros Mavromichalis, gathered 3,000 men and marched north to Kalamata. They captured the city on March 23, signaling the beginning of the Greek War of Independence. But we were heading south, to Koita, historically one of the oldest and most important tower-house villages. From there, we cycled to the windswept Tigani peninsula and walked across a flat expanse scattered with white rocks to its tip, crowned by a ruined medieval fortress. Founded by William II de Villehardouin in 1248, it was one of three Frankish fortresses defending the southeast Peloponnese, the other

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STOPS

PICTURESQUE LIMENI Areopoli’s seaport was the stronghold of the Mavromichalis clan and their tower house still stands, proudly enduring the passage of time. A swim in the crystal-clear aquamarine waters here is a memorable experience.

A local cat plots its strategy to steal the unguarded crispy, honey-soaked diples fritters off a café table.

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above the coast. Several of its fortified stone tower houses, dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, have been renovated as part of a Greek National Tourism Organization pilot project to regenerate six traditional villages. But today it remains virtually uninhabited. From here the road takes you even higher and at one point you have amazing views to each side, with Porto Kagio, a deep sheltered turquoise cove where three sleek white sailing boats had dropped anchor, to the east, and the sandy beach of Marmaris, to the west. And so we had arrived at the southernmost point of mainland Greece, Cape Tainaron, which the ancients believed to be the location of the Cave of Hades, the entrance to the Underworld. Unlike the Cretans, who are known for their exuberant wedding celebrations, the Maniots have a noted fascination with death and give greater emphasis to funeral rituals. These culminate with moiroloi, or mourning songs – epic laments, sung exclusively by women during wakes and at the graveside. They take the form of a long, terrible, suffering dirge, the sound of which is carried away by the wind, out across the open sea, far away from this proud wild land, and to eternity.

HISTORIC OITYLO Mentioned by Homer in The Iliad and by many other travelers who came to Greece from Europe. Once inhabited by Byzantine princes, the view of the village from the hills opposite leaves a lasting impression.

Neoclassical GYTHIO Gythio, at the head of the Laconian Gulf. Celebrated for its neoclassical look, beaches, seaside fish tavernas and Ethnological Museum housed in the Tzanetakis Tower on the tiny islet of Cranae, where Paris is said to have left his helmet after abducting the beautiful Helen of Troy.

two being Mystras and Monemvasia. Inside, we found the foundations of a church, with tombs that had obviously been plundered centuries ago, adding even more eeriness to this proud but desolate stronghold. Nearby, high above the crashing waves, we followed a narrow path through wild flowers, to visit the tiny whitewashed Church of Panaghia Odigitria, built into the seaward-facing cliffs back in the 13th century. The door was ajar, so we peeked inside and saw peeling frescoes in typical Byzantine hues of russet red, deep blue and warm yellowy ochre. Behind the church, we found a cave, once no doubt inhabited by hermit monks. Here we recalled that the soldierly Maniots were also fearless pirates, whose ships patrolled the waters off their rugged coast, blessed by local priests, who occasionally even accompanied them on their raids. It was time to proceed to our final destination, Gerolimenas. Founded as a trading port in the late 1800s, and known for exporting quails to Marseilles in France, it lies close to the Mani’s southern tip, and gives onto the open sea. From here we walked to Vathia, another typical Maniot settlement, built on a strategic hilltop 200 meters

FOCUS | DIROS CAVE S

NATURE’S UNDERGROUND CATHEDRAL A spectacular cave complex offers visitors the opportunity to travel back to the Neolithic era and even further. BY GIORGOS TSIROS

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In Vlychada Cave, boatmen-guides add color to the visit with their own nicknames of particular formations.

In the larger chamber of Alepotrypa there is a lake with potable water and a maximum depth of 14 meters.

t is not just the drop in temperature that gives you the chills as you descend underground to start the 40-minute boat tour of Vlychada, the biggest cave of the Diros complex. It is the beautiful and dramatic formations of stalactites and stalagmites, formed millions of years ago, when the sea, located just a few meters away, started to rise and formed the lake we see today. It is the excitement of not knowing what can be hiding in the darkness beyond the illuminated 1.5k route, and the realization of the sheer size of this underground miracle of nature: a series of vast caverns stretching 15k into the rock, with 2,800 waterways – and this is only what we know of so far. The exploration of Vlychada started in 1949 and has yielded fascinating finds, including the fossil of a hippopotamus from the late Pleistocene Epoch, around 32,000 years ago, as well as evidence of panthers, lions, spotted hyenas, ferrets and seals. It is a treasure trove of information relating to the prehistoric fauna that existed in the region we know today as the Peloponnese. Scientists are also busy exploring another cave in the complex, Alepotrypa (Greek for

“fox hole”), which, however, is not open to the public. Expectations are running high, especially following the discovery last year – just outside the entrance – of the perfectly preserved remains of a couple, aged 5,800 years old, locked in an embrace. Their grave was part of one of the biggest Neolithic burial sites ever found in Europe. It also contained an ossuary, as well as several ceramic urns and beads, among other offerings, suggesting that the people who lived here were members of an advanced community. This theory is backed by finds inside the cave suggesting that it served as a religious site and a storage area for food and other goods. The discovery of a number of unburied skeletons inside the cave has led scientists to surmise that they may have died suddenly, possibly in a an earthquake, which may have wiped out the entire community. Renewed interest in Diros has led to significant investments in developing it. The underground passages of Vlychada are being revamped with improved lighting and other additions, while the area surrounding the site will be given a complete makeover, which will include a museum on Mani’s prehistoric caves.

Finds in Alepotrypa cave suggest that the people who lived here were members of an advanced community.

1. Architectural rendering of the new museum on Mani’s prehistoric caves, soon to be constructed. 2. The most striking recent discovery in Alepotrypa was a burial from 5,800 years ago containing two adult human skeletons, male and female, interlocked in an embrace.

Info Pyrgos Dirou, Laconia • Tel. (+30) 27330-52222 (Cave), (+30) 27330-52223 (Neolithic Museum) • Tickets: €12, Reduced €8 • Winter hours: 08:30-15:30 • Summer hours: 08:30-18:30

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The famous bay of Voidokilia, which is shaped like the Greek letter Ω / Omega.

HIGHLIGHTS

City old & new Famous for its delicious olives and olive oil, Kalamata combines its ancient past with its modern face, pulsating with life and home to an edgy annual dance festival.

MES

ANCIENT MESSENE Much of this sprawling archaeological site has been impeccably restored. Visit its museum and the Arcadian Gate before marveling at the agora and amphitheater.

Give me an Ω As if omega-shaped Voidokilia beach wasn’t idyllic enough, nearby there is also Natura 2000 protected Gialova Lagoon, as well as the legendary Cave of Nestor.

Diamond of Messinia Discover Kardamyli’s splendid array of beaches, follow one of the many paths leading to Mt Taygetus, or just soak up Venetian-style architecture against gorgeous backdrops.

AT A GLANCE It is not surprising that like an intriguing muse cloaked in abundant natural beauty and bejeweled with historical gems, Messinia has seduced legendary writers such as Nikos Kazantzakis, Patrick LeighFermor or Bruce Chatwin, who, while staying with “Paddy” at Kardamyli, wrote The Songlines, and even requested to have his ashes scattered there. Since 2010, the world-class Costa Navarino Resort has earned Messinia a prominent place on the global tourism map, drawing a plethora of sophisticated visitors to admire and attest to the cultural, natural and historical wealth of the region. Seasoned travelers head there to lose – or find – themselves on pristine coastlines with secluded bays and hidden waterfalls, in ancient olive groves and fruitful vineyards, in deep gorges and along demanding paths on Mt Taygetus, while exploring scenic traditional mountain villages with old, stone-built houses. Access to Messinia has become a simple matter thanks to the new national highway as well as the airport at Messinia’s capital, Kalamata, home to the indigenous black olive, a fine museum, a vibrant shopping scene and a world-acclaimed 20-year-old dance festival.

SSINIA Spirit of adventure Precipitous cliffs, lush vegetation, stone bridges, underwater caves and steep waterfalls beckon adventurers to the amazing gorges of Neda, Viros and Ridomo.

Majestic fortresses Visit Methoni and Koroni, once known as the “eyes of Venice” on account of their strategic location, to admire imposing seafront castles and attractive beaches.

History with a view Built on a rocky promontory by the Franks in the 13th century, the fortress of Palaiokastro today affords sweeping views of Navarino Bay, Gialova Lagoon and the picturesque town of Pylos.

FOCUS I southwe s t Me ssinia

The next “in” destination Packed into the first prong of the Peloponnese, you will find just about everything a traveler could wish for.

BY DIANA FARR LOUIS

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Methoni Castle, a masterpiece of Venetian military architecture and, with Koroni, one of the “eyes” of the Serene Republic’s empire.

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few years ago National Geographic produced a glossy coffee-table album devoted to “the world’s 400 best travel experiences.” In it, besides Athens and the islands, Greece had a third entry: Messinia in the southwest Peloponnese. The selection of this fertile, gentle region over more renowned spots on the Classical tour like Delphi, Olympia and the Argolid might seem unorthodox until you give it a closer look. In fact, it possesses just about everything a traveler could wish for: Beaches, including one that makes all the Top 10 lists; an award-winning luxury resort; a string of mountain lakes; a bird-watcher’s haven; succulent fruits and vegetables; and a monument or memory from almost every period of Greek history, from Homer’s time to our own. But what will immediately strike you are the olive trees. Silvery leaves flickering in the breeze, trunks twisted into surreal shapes, they cover the plain and hills from Kalamata to Pylos, for this is the largest grove in Greece and the source of much of its extra virgin oil and its famous olives. When you finally reach the Ionian after driving through this sea of olives, you will have arrived at south end of the longest stretch of beach in Greece. “Sandy Pylos” was how Homer described Nestor’s domain in The Odyssey and the name still fits. The palace of this garrulous

1. Pylos harbor at sunset. No reminders here of the dramatic Battle of Navarino that changed the course of the Greek War of Independence. 2. Polylimnio’s “many lakes” are a delightful change of scene after days at Messinia’s long sandy beaches. 3. Palaiokastro standing proudly atop a craggy hill overlooking the sea. 4. Even babies take part in the annual olive harvest. Messinia’s groves, home of the famous Kalamata olive, are the largest in Greece. 5. Gialova women in traditional Messinian dress kneading dough for a festive sweet bread, as part of the Messinian authenticity experiences offered by Costa Navarino resort. 6. Sunset at Gialova Lagoon, a wetland that attracts 270 bird species, permanent and migratory and is magical any time of day.

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king spread over a hilltop 17 kilometers north of the modern town, overlooking an almost perfectly round, practically closed bay. Today this stunning circle of white sand ringing turquoise waters wins all the contests for most beautiful beach on the Peloponnese. Surely it deserves a more dignified name than Voidokoilia or “Cow’s Belly,” but it too has ancient origins, harking back to the myth that Hermes hid cattle he’d stolen from Apollo in a nearby cave. If you remember the opulent feast Nestor laid on for Odysseus’ son, you’ll find evidence for it and other banquets here, in the huge throne room, and at the small museum at Hora, 4 kilometers further north. The palace pantry contained 2,853 tall stemmed drinking cups, 6,000 vases and 300 cooking pots. Huge jars for wine and olive oil filled the storerooms, some still resting in their sockets and, most importantly, inventoried on clay tablets in Linear B, an early form of Greek. Pylos itself, a charming, mostly 19th century town, rises up behind an even larger, virtually enclosed bay called Navarino, a name with Slavic roots. As every Greek schoolchild knows, the two battles fought in this drowsy, peaceful setting more than two millennia apart, changed the course of Greek history. The longish island blocking the 148

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entrance is Sphakteria, famous for a stand-off between Athenians and Spartans in the eighth year of the Peloponnesian War. As Thucydides says, this was “a strange alteration in the ordinary run of things for Athenians to be fighting a battle on land – and Spartan land too – against Spartans attacking from the sea.” After a 72-day siege, the Spartans did the unthinkable. They surrendered, allowing themselves to be taken prisoner by a mere 800 Athenians. Unfortunately, this proved a pyrrhic victory. The war slogged on for another 19 years and the Golden Age ended with it. The second, far noisier, far quicker battle was to prove crucial in the Greek War of Independence from the Ottoman Turks. Instead of the few yachts, fishing caiques and a tramp steamer or two that you see now, the bay was chockablock with three-masters and smaller ships belonging to the combined navies of England, France and Russia facing the Turkish-Egyptian fleet. The Great Powers had simply sailed in one fine October day in 1827 to scare the Muslims out of the Peloponnese. They hadn’t intended to get involved themselves, but as they repeated their demand for Ottoman withdrawal, a nervous Turkish recruit fired a few shots, and the combined cannon of the

Koroni is a lively town with whitewashed alleys to wander in and tavernas and cafes to retire to after a swim on its pleasant beach.

A Greek Orthodox priest out for a stroll near the village of Koroni.

The Timios Prodromos Monastery looks over the homes and gardens of Koroni.

Besides its Venetian castle, Koroni has many vestiges of a more recent past, such as this kafeneio, where old-timers gather to solve the world’s problems.

STOPS

Polylimnio A necklace of exquisite mountain lakes and pools with tiny turquoise waterfalls located near the villages of Haravgi and Kazarma off the Kalamata-Pylos road, 21k from Pylos. Reachable only by foot, but an easy walk and the water will certainly cool you off.

A walk on the wild side inside Methoni’s castle walls, once a bustling hub for pilgrims, merchants, Jewish silk-workers, Gypsies, Turks, wine and olive oil producers, Greek serfs and Italian lords.

Great Powers thundered back. By dusk they had sunk 53 ships and 6,000 sailors had gone down with them. In contrast, not a single allied ship was lost and only 174 men had died. Although the Sultan did not grant Greece independence until 1829, the defeat at Navarino certainly hastened it. In the town itself, the only reminder of the famous sea battle is a memorial to the three admirals who won it in the square named after them. And the only remnant of the Turkish presence is the gray castle that still looms above the red-roofed houses on the slope and the fish tavernas on the waterfront. It’s called Niokastro to distinguish it from the ancient foundations of Palaiokastro, across the bay. Rebuilt by Frankish Crusaders after the conquest of Constantinople in 1204, it surveys one of the most important habitats for wild birds in Greece, Gialova Lagoon, where some 270 species have been counted. For two of Greece’s most spectacular castles, go to the end of the peninsula, Methoni on the Ionian side, Koroni on the Gulf of Messinia. Built by the Venetians, they were dubbed “the chief eyes of the Serene Republic.” From them, she could control all traffic entering the Ionian/Adriatic. The two could not be more different. Imposing Koroni ris-

es almost seamlessly from the coastal rocks, but is surprisingly cozy inside its walls, where you’ll find a humble convent with churches and a cemetery plus a few medieval-looking houses. Outside its precincts a lively town is clustered, with whitewashed alleys to wander in and tavernas and cafes to retire to after a swim on its pleasant beach. The summer village of Methoni preceding its castle is hard to imagine as the “important half-way house between Venice and the Holy Land, at which every traveler stopped on his way to the east.” But its fortress, straddling a wild and weedy peninsula of its own, is a fine example of Venetian military architecture, with elegant towers, massive gray walls, a wide moat bridged by an arched causeway, and at its end, a perfect miniature, the octagonal Bourtzi, an islet of itself. They make an unusual backdrop for a swim from the golden beach there. Finally, there’s a present-day “castle” – the world-class luxury resort Costa Navarino, which opened in 2010. There you can play guilt-free golf knowing that the courses are watered ecologically, dine on excellent local products and inspect the special interactive exhibits on Messinian wildlife. With all these landmarks, manmade and natural, Messinia really does deserve to be the next “in” destination in Greece. G R E E C E IS

Museum at Hora Piet de Jong’s watercolors depict some 17 jazzy pastel patterns decorating the walls and floors of Nestor’s Palace, along with frescoes of mythical beasts and some of the goblets and tableware used at the king’s banquets.

PYLOS Niokastro is one of the best preserved fortresses in Greece and home to the Archaeological and Underwater Antiquities museums. Also in Pylos, the residence of Olympian Tsiklitiras, now exhibiting the paintings and memorabilia of French collector Rene Peaux.

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FOCUS | PATRICK LEIGH-FE RMOR

A Hero’s Retreat A modern-day Odysseus, “Paddy” spent the most peaceful days of his remarkable life in a now-famous house near Kardamyli, surrounded by olive groves. BY Sofk a Zinovieff*

hen people talk about Patrick Leigh-Fermor, they often use superlatives: “the greatest British travel writer,” “the most daring wartime secret agent,” “the last great romantic.” I first met him when I came to the Peloponnese to do research as an anthropology student nearly 30 years ago and I went to stay with him in Kardamyli. Although I then knew little about his life, I was, like so many, immediately won over by his charisma. Paddy, as he was always known by English friends (Greeks called him Michalis, his nom de guerre), lived with his wife Joan in a house just outside Kardamyli that they built in the 1960s. At that point, Mani was still an extremely remote, even wild corner of Europe – the inaccessible middle peninsular of the Peloponnesian three-fingered “hand,” with its striking stone towers reflecting centuries of blood feuds and the dramatic, rocky landscape of Mount Taygetus. The couple gradually created their remarkable home – a mix between a Byzantine monastery and an English country house: carved stone arches, comfortable armchairs, walls covered in books and paintings by Nikos HadjikyriakosGhikas. Cats (and sometimes goats) prowled over the beautifully designed stone terraces with paths made from smooth pebbles. They had picked their spot carefully – close enough to Kardamyli to have neighbors, shops and a few tavernas, but isolated enough to have the peace they desired. Steps lead from the house down to a beautiful little cove from which they and their friends would set out on long swims. And all around them, olive groves.

If these walls could talk… Furniture, books, personal items, mementos of an adventure-filled life, have remained untouched in the home of Patrick and Joan at Kardamyli.

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The most famous courtyard in the Peloponnese, one of the locations for the Richard Linklater film Before Midnight.

Over the years, Paddy became a friend, and I gradually read all his books and learned more about him – the fast living that recalled his hero, Lord Byron, and the daring and resourcefulness that conjured up a modern-day Odysseus. Wonderfully handsome as a young man, he was always beautifully dressed and remained charming, witty and courteous to the end. A man of action and of letters, Paddy was just as comfortable in grand English drawing rooms or mountain shacks in Crete and he was irresistible to women. A BBC journalist once described him as a mix between Indiana Jones, James Bond and Graham Greene. Paddy was one of the most cultured people I have met – constantly interest152

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ed to learn about the people and places he encountered. He not only read literature and poetry but adored reference books. At dinner in Kardamyli, he would jump up to find a dictionary to illustrate a point or an atlas to locate the precise name of something. An autodidact, he didn’t attend university, but in 1933, aged 18, walked across Europe. Carrying only a rucksack, he started in Holland and made his way through Nazi Germany, Hungary and on to Constantinople. During the war, Paddy served in the Intelligence Corps and helped organize the resistance to Crete’s Nazi occupiers. He grew a large mustache and dressed as a shepherd with baggy pantaloons and a dagger in his belt. In 1944, he devised a bold, even crazy plan that has fascinated people ever since. Using German uniforms as disguises, he, Billy Moss and a group of Cretans kidnapped the

“A mix between Indiana Jones, James Bond and Graham Greene...” Leigh-Fermor on Ithaki, 1946.

Almost 50 years after it was first published, Leigh-Fermor’s book “Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese” remains one of the best ever written about Greece by a non-Greek.

The tree-fringed bay of Kalamitsi, the view of which brought Fermor peace and calm until the end of his life.

Nazi chief of staff on Crete, General Krei pe. Living in remote caves, they avoided detection for two weeks, ultimately escaping with him back to Egypt. It was in Cairo that Paddy met Joan, a tall, blonde intellectual and photographer, the daughter of Viscount Monsell. The pair traveled together – in the Caribbean in 1949 (resulting in Paddy’s first book, The Traveller’s Tree) and then in Greece. In Athens they became friends with many artists and writers of the day, including Giorgos Seferis and Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, and disco vered Greece on foot and by mule, bus and boat. These explorations are described in Paddy’s two masterpieces, Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese and Roumeli: Travels in Northern Greece. Richly erudite but also humorous and anecdotal, they remain among the best things written about Greece by a non-Greek. Mani is also

Top: Portrait of Paddy at Kardamyli in 2001. Bottom: A meal with friends around the diningroom table designed by Fermor himself. His house was frequently visited by leading figures of the arts and letters.

a eulogy to the place that Paddy and Joan chose as the ideal place to make their home. Although it was one of the most inaccessible parts of Greece, they quickly became friends with many of their neighbors and there was a stream of visitors from Athens, England and around the world. By the time he died aged 96 in 2011, Paddy had been awarded medals and honors by both the Greek and British governments (he was knighted in 2004). He left the house at Kardamyli to the Benaki Museum, with the intention that it should be used as a writers’ retreat. Characterized by contrasts, Paddy was playful and scholarly, he drank impressive quantities and could sing folk songs in countless languages, but he regularly went into silent retreats at Cistercian monasteries. Set between the silvery olive groves of Mani and the lush, green fields of Worcestershire, Paddy’s remarkable life would be almost unbelievable in a novel: walking across Europe, falling in love with a princess, abducting a general, taking the best from Greece and England and becoming the finest travel writer of his generation.

Info Read Leigh-Fermor’s Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese and also Artemis Cooper’s biography of the author, Patrick Leigh Fermor: An Adventure, both published by John Murray. * Sofka Zinovieff is a British author (www.sofkazinovieff.com)

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Ideal for a stroll through towering oak trees, Foloi Forest is also called Forest of the Centaurs.

HIGHLIGHTS

Back to 776 BC Ancient Olympia is known throughout the world for the ancient games and its museum.

Κatakolo Port A cruise-ship destination with a lovely sandy beach and a fascinating museum dedicated to ancient Greek technology.

Medieval Wonders Built in the 12th and 13th cent. Chlemoutsi Castle and the Monastery of Panaghia Vlacherna take us back to Kyllini’s golden age.

Homage to Apollo The temple of Apollo Epicurius resembles Athens’ Parthenon as it was designed by the same architect (Iktinos) and many of its sculptures too are at the British Museum.

Traditional Architecture Built on the slopes of a green hill, Andritsaina is a lovely traditional village, with stone houses and cobbled streets.

AT A GLANCE Blessed with a magnificent sandy coastline lapped by the inviting Ionian Sea and witness to some of the most beautiful sunsets in Greece, Ilia has the privilege of preserving the traces of its glorious past. Olympia is the undisputed star, yet lesser known sites should not be overlooked, including Ancient Elis, Scillus, Filageia and the impressive temple of Apollo Epicurius. Byzantine and Frankish churches, castles ruins of cities such as Glarentza and the 19th century neoclassical edifices of the capital, Pyrgos, all attest to the region’s storied past. Long a cosmopolitan destination thanks to its natural springs and two ports (Kyllini, the gateway to the Ionian islands and beyond, and Katakolo, a cruise ship hub), Ilia is both a stopover and a destination in its own right. There is more than enough to enchant nature lovers: Rolling hills, vast olive groves, valleys, forests, ravines, streams and dozens of waterfalls fed by four legendary rivers (Pineios, Alfeios, Erymanthos and Neda), the Pineios reservoir in the north, Kaiafa Lake in the south, the rare oak forest of Foloi in the west and the amazing Kotychi-Strofilia Wetlands on the border with Achaia. Not to mention the hiking and cycling trails that criss-cross the region.

Rejuvenating Springs Soak away the aches and pains in the healing springs of Kaiafa at the lake of the same name.

ILIA

Bird-watching Places of rare natural beauty, the oak forest of Foloi and Kotychi Lagoon host a stunning array of flora and fauna.

Source of life Near Ancient Elis, the city that organized the Olympic Games, the Pineios reservoir colors the landscape with azure tones and irrigates the lush Ilia plain.

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FOCUS | K YLLINI & S TROFILIA

GO WEST In the northern part of Ilia, an area full of variety and surprises, you don’t have to compromise on historical interest and natural beauty. BY OLGA CHAR AMI

ome travelers come here just to take the ferryboat from the port of Kyllini for Zakynthos or Cephalonia. Many more are on their way to the prefecture’s emblematic archaeological site, Ancient Olympia. But there are others seeking an alternative tour, here, in the northern part of Ilia, one full of variety and surprises, without having to compromise on historical interest and natural beauty. This has always been an important and cosmopolitan region on account of Kyllini. In antiquity, it was the biggest port in the western Peloponnese and the main harbor of Ancient Elis, while under Frankish rule the famed city of Glarentza was built and flourished on its ruins, serving as the port of the capital of the Principality of Achaea, Andravida. The city minted its own coins, hosted branches of major European banks and engaged in commerce as well as cultural exchanges with towns in Italy. It quickly grew to become not only the main port of the Morea but also one of the largest trading centers of the Eastern Mediterranean. All that remains of the once great city – parts of its defensive walls and Gothic church – lies in ruins on the Hill of Chelonatas, while the rest of its former splendor is now lost among the wild vegetation and in the sea.

A vast expanse of lagoons, marshland, water meadows and coastal forest make up the National Park of Kotychi-Strofylia, covering an area of 6,000 hectares.

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Today, the port of Kyllini has hotels and restaurants, a developed stretch of sandy beach, as well as a marina. The town has retained its popularity thanks in no small part to its spa facilities. Located just 10 kilometers from the town, the waters of the thermal springs (26C), celebrated since ancient times, are said to heal a number of skin, respiratory, musculoskeletal and other disorders. Next to the hydrotherapy center, many choose to enjoy mud baths while visitors who want to be pampered opt for the wellness and relaxation treatments provided by the five-star spa hotels situated right on the beach. From Kyllini and as far as the capital of the prefecture, Pyrgos, the coastline is effectively one long sandy beach, the best known stretch of which is Kourouta, described – with some exaggeration – as the “Myconos of the Peloponnese,” due to its buzzing beach bars, restaurants and shops. Equally popular is the beach at the settlement of Kastro, although one of the biggest attractions in this area is the medieval Chlemoutsi Castle, which served as the administrative center and main stronghold of Glarentza in the Frankish period. One of the finest examples of Frankish castle architecture in the Peloponnese, it is very well preserved. Heading inland you will come to Andravida, capital of the Principality of Achaea in the late Middle Ages. A visit to its main square will give you a sense of its former grandeur. In reality however, little remains of that period, most notably the ruins of the Church of Aghia Sophia. But here there is something else to discover: a rare breed of horses. Close 1. Chlemoutsi Castle was built by Geoffrey I of Villehardouin between 1220 and 1223.

3. The 2,200-hectare Forest of Strofylia stretches along the sandy shore and features a mix of rare stone pine, Aleppo pine and Valonia oak.

2. The Araxos or Papas lagoon, at the northern edge of the National Park, separated from the Gulf of Patras by a thin strip of land.

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4. Hundreds of species of birds nest, reproduce, winter or stop over at the wetlands of the National Park during migration.

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to extinction, the Andravida horse is the result of crossing Anglo-Normans with local breeds. The riding center is still under construction but you can see the horses at the annual equestrian exhibition, held each September for the past 81 years, or even in and around the town, where they are a fairly common sight. A 15-kilometer drive will take you to Ancient Elis, where in antiquity athletes would train for one month in preparation for the Olympic Games. Particularly impressive, even though it never had seats, is the 4th century BC theater which still hosts shows as part of the yearly summer festival. But perhaps the truly memorable experience for visitors is in the north, namely the most important and only internationally recognized wetland in the Peloponnese, the Kotychi Lagoon and the Strofylia Forest. Designated a national park covering an area of 6,000 hectares, the Ramsar site comprises a huge complex of lagoons, marshes, water meadows, sand dunes and reed beds, which stretches as far as Kalogria beach in Achaia and includes the wonderful Forest of Strofylia. Covering 2,200 hectares, the coastal forest features a mix of Aleppo pine, Valonia oak and many other species, including the rare stone pine, most of which are 100-200 years old, constituting the largest forest of its kind in Greece and one of the biggest in Europe. This part of the tour has a completely different feel, as do the main attractions. Towns and villages are few and far between. Here you will encounter farmers and tiny hamlets, and

vast areas of cultivated land, with or without greenhouses, where a range of products are grown, including strawberries, watermelons and artichokes. At the Kotychi Lagoon you will see men tending the traditional fish pens known as divaria, while at the picturesque cape and small harbor of Kounoupeli you can watch boats leaving for deep-sea fishing in the Ionian. For nature lovers, the experience can be quite amazing. At the lagoon you can observe some of the 270 recorded species of birds or enter the dense forest and walk along dirt paths in the shade of pine trees that look like enormous umbrellas. You can also spend some time at the gorgeous beach framed by sand dunes and swim in the crystal-clear waters of the Ionian Sea, look for orchids and other wild flowers, and gaze at the Black Mountains of Achaia, a veritable paradise for birds of prey.

fun fAct According to the locals, the Castle of Chlemoutsi is visible 100 miles out at sea. Whereas approaching by land, according to the 17th century Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi, you can see it from a distance of five days!

STOPS

Chlemoutsi Castle The strongest fortress of the Franks in the Peloponnese was built to protect the capital of the Principality of Achaea, Andravida, and the port town of Glarentza. In its museum you can see finds from Glarentza and an exhibition on the life of the Frankish knights and the inhabitants of the Morea during the period of Latin occupation. (Tel. +30 26320-950.33)

Ancient Elis

Forest walk

AGHIA Sophia

The ancient city had always enjoyed great status but it flourished most during the Early Roman period because of its role in the organization of the Olympic Games. At the extensive archaeological site you can see the remains of the ancient agora and the impressive theater, parts of the city and cemeteries. There is also a well-appointed museum. (Tel. +30 26220-414.15)

Few experiences in nature can match a walk in the Strofylia Forest, the silence interrupted only by the sounds of birds and insects. Also great for birdwatching, especially in spring, when thousands of migrating birds reach Kotychi Lagoon. Don’t miss the opportunity for a swim at Kalogria, one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece. (www.strofylia nationalpark.gr)

Three Gothic vaulted arches is all that remains of the Aghia Sophia Church in Andravida, once a splendid, threeaisled basilica where – it is said – Dominican friars prayed, local barons met and the great council of Achaea took decisions. Today, the arches provide valuable information about Gothic architecture in Greece under Frankish rule and lend singular charm to the small town.

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Τhe impressive Apollon Municipal Theater in Patras (1871-1872), designed by German architect Ernst Ziller.

HIGHLIGHTS

Patras’ neoclassical architecture Sip coffee in central Georgiou I square among 19th century architectural gems such as the Apollon Theater, a micrograph of Milan’s La Scala.

Bastions of civilization Enjoy delightful views from historic Patras Castle, and performances at the reconstructed Roman Odeon.

Modern ancient world Explore the space-age style New Archaeological Museum of Patras, exhibiting intriguing finds from prehistoric to Roman times.

Engineering masterpiece Cross the 2,880-meter-long Rio-Antirio bridge, one of the longest cable-stayed bridges in the world, which elegantly connects the Peloponnese with central Greece.

AT A GLANCE The capital of this region is Patras. The country’s third largest city is most famously known for its port, dubbed “Greece’s gateway to the West” since Roman times, its annual carnival – with a history spanning 180 years, vividly colored with pagan, French, Turkish and Venetian influences – and its spectacular 2,880-meter-long Rio-Antirrio bridge. There’s much more to see in this culturally vibrant, student-friendly city by the sea, but you should also reserve some time for its stunningly beautiful mountains. Above all, legendary Helmos. In Greek mythology, this was the source of the Styx River in which Thetis dipped her son, Achilles, to make him immortal – alas, forgetting to submerge his heel. It was also here, on the lower slopes of the mountain, outside the Monastery of Aghia Lavra, that the revolutionary flag of the Greek War of Independence was first raised in 1821. Nearby, the town of Kalavryta was witness to the worst atrocity committed by the Nazis during the Axis occupation of Greece in the Second World War. Also part of the area’s rich history, the charming little train that runs on the rack railway through the amazing Vouraikos gorge and makes a stop at one of the oldest Greek Orthodox monasteries, Mega Spilaio.

FOCUS: PATRAS Check out our mini-guide to the capital of the Peloponnese.

CHAIA Scenic train ride A 19th century mountain train takes you on a thrilling 22 kilometer journey through the gorge of Vouraikos and up to Kalavryta.

Skiing with a sea view Just a short drive from Kalavryta, you can enjoy the highest ski run in Greece and well groomed pistes under the sun.

Off the beaten track Unspoiled and untouristy, Zarouchla village is your gateway to biking, hiking and driving amid fir forests, slopes and streams.

FOCUS | K AL AVRY TA

Racking Up Experiences Take in the landscapes from the train window or in an adrenaline-pumping trek across narrow bridges and dark tunnels.

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The construction of the rack railway a century ago was no easy feat. The 22k route required six tunnels of a total of 200m to be dug through the rock and 49 bridges to be erected, nine of which are arched and made of stone.

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alavryta is one of the few places in Greece where you can enjoy a view from the mighty mountaintops over a gorge as beautiful as Vouraikos, without having to risk life and limb clinging to a climbing rope. And this is thanks to the rack railway, a small train on cogs that sets off from the seaside town of Diakofto in the northern Peloponnese, makes a stop at the verdant village of Kato Zachlorou and at the impressive Mega Spilaio (Big Cave) monastery, to end an hour later, 22k further along the track and 700m up in the historical town of Kalavryta. Make sure to get your tickets a day or two beforehand – this excursion is a favorite with weekenders and families – put a new memory card in your camera and, if you enjoy outdoor adventures, pack a backpack of snacks and drinks, and put on your hiking boots, because the best way to enjoy the area’s natural beauty is to ascend by train and descend on foot. The trail back down the mountain is not sign-posted but it is part of the E4 European Trails Network. With a little care in railway tunnels and on narrow bridges – no accidents have

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ever been recorded and the train drivers always give a good long toot of the horn at the trickier spots – the descent should take roughly 6 hours. As the train leaves the terminus at Diakofto (160k from Athens), the low brush and the calm waters of the Gulf of Corinth give no indication of the wild beauty that you will soon encounter. Leaving behind farms and olive groves, the walls of the gorge start to get narrower, almost impassable. The electric-powered train makes its way through tunnels bored into the rock and dark underpasses, clings to narrow bridges and, most importantly, crawls its way up steep inclines thanks to the tooth-like cogs of the middle rail that keeps the train in place along the more precipitous parts of the route. The railway’s construction in the early 19th century was considered a feat of advanced engineering and made possible thanks to the valuable knowledge of the French and Italian workers who had built similar systems in the Alps. Up until 1960, it was the chief mode of transport for the locals and contributed significantly to economic growth in the

The Big Cave (Megalo Spilaio) Monastery is built in front of a massive cave entrance, on an almost sheer,120m cliff face.

Put on your hiking boots, because the best way to enjoy the area’s natural beauty is to ascend by train and descend on foot.

A chance encounter that reminds us of the area’s bucolic side.

area, once completely isolated in the mountain masses of Achaia. Nature has also done more than its part to enhance the journey, offering passengers spectacular rock formations, waterfalls and imposing cliffs. You will pass by nature’s court, Dikastiria, a cave with stalagmites and stalactites that looks like a courtroom, complete with judge and the accused. The most famous and photographed spot on the rote is Portes, a stretch that got its name from the huge metallic gates at the entrance to the old tunnel. These used to open and close so that locals would have to pay a toll fee to cross. Today they are always left open and it is definitely worth taking a few snapshots of the narrowest pass in the Vouraikos Gorge, a spectacle which, according to legend, was formed when Heracles cut through the rock with his sword so he could pass with the Erymanthian Boar under his arm and deliver it to Eurystheus to complete his fourth labor. Shortly after you will come to the picturesque village of Kato Zachlorou, which has a few small café-tavernas that transport you to a time when there

The train that once served the local economy by transporting people and goods is now used almost exclusively as a tourist attraction.

The Mega Spilaio/Kato Zachlorou train station is the intermediary stop of the rack railway train that sets off from Diakofto and ends up at Kalavryta.

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FOCUS | K AL AVRY TA

were no roads in the area and the train was the only means of transportation. Pilgrims wanting to reach the Mega Spilaio Monastery would have to make the climb on donkeys, while the tavern-hotel Romanzo has been the setting for several Greek bucolic films, most notably “The Shepherdess’s Sweetheart,” today the absolute cult film of Greek cinema history. You can take snaps outside the picturesque Mega Spilaio station, enjoy a coffee or a meal beside the tracks, walk along the iron bridge that passes above the gorge or take the trail on the left of the station (marked with blue triangles) and make your way on foot for about 2 kilometers to the monastery. The train then continues along a stretch flanked with plane trees, weeping willows and ferns which leads out of the gorge as you reach Kerpini. The wildness of the gorge is now well behind you but the route remains very pretty indeed, all the way to the final destination, Kalavryta. The small town on the slope of Mount Helmos has lost none of its traditional charm and becomes even more colorful

as skiers make their base here, roaming around in their striking gear during the winter months. It is also a very popular weekend vacation spot, inundated on public holidays especially by travelers who want to explore its lovely landscapes and pay tribute to its history. Known in antiquity as Cynathea, the town was practically razed to the ground by Aetolian conquerors in 220 BC, a fate that was also to befall modern-day Kalavryta, a name given to the area possibly due to the abundance of natural springs ( kala meaning good and vryta meaning springs). On December 13, 1943, Nazi occupiers put the town to the torch and massacred its entire male population in retaliation for the capture and execution of 78 German soldiers by Greek resistance fighters. Known today as the Kalavryta Massacre, it was the biggest atrocity committed in Greece during World War II. The clock on the left-hand bell tower of the metropolitan cathedral in the main square remains stopped since that day in silent tribute to the victims.

STOPS

The Kalavryta Holocaust Museum

Housed in a stone building that also serves as the town’s elementary school, the museum has photographs, filmed testimonies of the massacre, secret telegrams and even objects that once belonged to the victims.

The Memorial The road leading from Kalavryta to the ski center on Mount Helmos takes you up Kappi Hill, where a huge white cross stands as a monument with the names of the 500 men executed by the Nazis, and bearing the words: “No more war, peace.” This spot also has a spectacular view of Kalavryta and Helmos.

Aghia Lavra Monastery

Mega Spilaio Monastery

Located about 4.5k northwest of Kalavryta town, this is the spot where, according to local lore, the Metropolitan Bishop Germans of Patras raised the banner of the Greek War of Independence, marking the start of the uprising against the Turks on March 21, 1821.

About 7k by car or 2k on foot from Kato Zachlorou, the eight-story monastery, built into a natural cave at an altitude of 940m, appears oblivious to the laws of gravity. The main church has wall paintings dating from 1653, some interesting marble work on the floor, a wood-carved altar screen and a beautiful icon of the Virgin May holding the infant Jesus, created mainly with wax and mastic gum.

Limnon Cave The 500-meter part of the cave that is open to visitors constitutes just one-fourth of its total mapped area. The cave has 13 small successive lakes and the temperature remains at a constant 13-16C. Archaeological finds, including the remains of a hippopotamus, show that the cave was inhabited from as early as the 6th millennium BC. After your tour, head to the village of Planitero for a rest and a meal, perhaps followed by a walk in the forest with age-old plane trees. 166

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ACTIVITIE S

ARE YOU GAME? From world-class golf courses to great diving spots and from challenging cliffs to dreamy forest trails, it’s all here. BY n ata s h a b l at s i o u

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Messinia Golf at Costa Navarino

With more than 10 international awards, including World of Leading Golf’s “Best Newcomer of the Year 2014,” the two 18-hole, signature courses at Costa Navarino, The Dunes Course (designed by two-times Masters champion Bernhard Langer) and The Bay Course (designed by acclaimed golf course architect Robert Trent Jones Jr), have in just a few years made Messinia one of the top golfing destinations in Europe. Of course this achievement has also been facilitated by the area’s natural beauty, featuring rolling hills, centuries-old olive trees, amazing sea and river views, a mild climate offering ideal conditions from late February to November, complemented by sound environmental planning, excellent facilities and impeccable course management by world leaders Troon Golf. Costa Navarino’s next development phase will include the creation of two more courses, one at Navarino Hills, nestled on a charming hillside, and the other at Navarino Blue, next to a 1k sandy beach washed by the crystal-clear waters of the Messinian Gulf, and just a 10-minute drive from Kalamata International Airport.

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Corinthia

Achaia

Laconia

It may look like a natural alpine lake, but it’s not. Doxa is man-made, and its relatively small size makes it ideal for cycling around. The route is 4k long, starting out from the lovely chapel of Aghios Fanourios, also known as Palaiomonastiro, standing serenely at the tip of a narrow peninsula jutting into the lake. A road leads 1k above the lake to the new monastery of Aghios Fanourios, which you can visit. More experienced mountain bikers may want to continue the ascent along a marked network of dirt tracks and paths on Mt Dourdouvana (2,109m), which is magically reflected in the lake.

Just 14k from the frequently snow-blanketed town of Kalavryta, prepare yourself for sea views and sun. Helmos Ski Center, Greece’s second largest ski resort, has a welcoming, family-friendly atmosphere that makes it ideal for novice and intermediate skiers. The center is located at Xerokambos (1,700m), with lifts going all the way up to the highest peak, Neraidorahi. With seven lifts and 12 pistes, it caters to all levels of experience, and also has a snowboard park and snowmobile rentals. You can rent any necessary equipment, book lessons and chill out – or rather, warm up – at a lovely wooden chalet that serves hot drinks and snacks. (www.kalavrita-ski.com)

Unleash the Spiderman within at a sport climbing park that combines history and natural beauty with excellent quality rock and a wide choice of routes. The park is just 16k by road from Sparta, via the village of Trypi. Four fields host 60 routes, well equipped with stainless steel bolts. The quality of the limestone is exceptional and the views of Mt Taygetus breathtaking. After a day’s climbing, it is worth visiting Trypi, site of the infamous pit hole of Kaiadas, into which the Spartans supposedly cast their weak and deformed infants (a myth that has been debunked by the archaeologist’s spade). The park is not for novice climbers and the best time to visit is between May and October.

Cycling at Lake Doxa

Skiing at Kalavryta

Sport Climbing at Lagada

Arcadia

Rafting on the Lousios

Don your helmet, wetsuit and most courageous smile and, paddle in hand, jump into a raft and glide past rocks, trees, stone bridges, springs, waterfalls and lush vegetation, carried by the clear green swell of the Lousios. Stretching from Karytaina to Dimitsana for 23 kilometers, the lively river passes through the gorge of the same name, a popular attraction in its own right. The rewarding rafting experience in the mountains of Arcadia requires no previous experience, just a brief introductory prep by the professional guide who heads each boat. The starting point is Atsicholos bridge, while there is a choice of three different destinations (Koukos bridge, Thisoa and Matesi), depending on the length of time you want to spend on the river. Participants must be able to swim, as there will be moments when the boat tips over, but any cold you feel will quickly be replaced by the sheer exhilaration of this great group activity. Numerous adventure tourism operators, easily found online, will be happy to book you a place all year round. 170

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ArgoliDA

ArgoliDA - Arcadia - Laconia

Messinia

The view of the coastline around Epidaurus from above is quite spectacular and is freely accessible to bold paragliders. The mountains above the bay of Ancient Epidaurus provide warm currents of air which are ideal for thrilling, safe flights. The best time of year is at the end of summer, when the strong north winds and high temperatures gradually subside. There are other great starting points for paragliding in the area, including on Mt Akros and the Arachnaio range. You will find plenty of take-off spots: Tintin is ideal for ridge soaring; Ted’s Café is perfect for beginners (with good conditions for learning thermal flying); Blacky is easy to reach and flights usually ascend to 2,000m with updrafts of 6-7 meters per second. Lastly, Peter’s Paradise offers classic thermal flying over one of the most mythical landscapes of Greece. (Source: www.mythicalpeloponnese.gr)

Sailing out of the Argolic Gulf, the Myrtoan Sea and the impressive coastline of the eastern Peloponnese stretch out befo re you. Beginning to the south of Paralio Astros, you will come across a succession of coves with emerald green waters in which to drop anchor. After Leonidio and its small harbor, head east to the bay of Poulithra, situated between two imposing headlands; continue past deserted stretches of coast or stop for a while at the fairly sheltered, tranquil beach of Fokianos. Further south lies Kyparissi with its charming island-style architecture, a good place to stock up on supplies. Proceeding to Monemvasia, you will find numerous beaches that provide suitable anchorages. One fascinating place to spend the night is Gerakas, located at the head of an impressive fjord. Here you will also find good food and chilled wine. (Source: www.mythicalpeloponnese.gr)

The marine environment off the rocky islet of Venetiko, south of Koroni, is teeming with life. Set out in a boat from the picturesque town or from nearby Finikounda and head for the small, relatively sheltered bay on the northeast coast of the island. From here you will discover the massive boulders, home to shoals of tiny fish, starfish, crabs and, a little deeper, to larger denizens such as dusky groupers and dentex, even coral. Another extremely interesting dive spot, for more experienced divers, lies further south of Venetiko, off the tiny islets of Avgo and Petrokaravo. The spectacle of rocks appearing to rise almost vertically from the great depths of the Messinian Gulf makes the effort worthwhile. On the way back, stop off at Tsapi with its lovely chapel, at Zaga and the beaches close to Akra Nisakoulia. (Source: www.mythicalpelopon nese.gr)

Paragliding on Mt Arachnaio

Sailing in the Myrtoan Sea

Diving at Venetiko

Messinia

The Gorges of Mani

In Mani you can hike along old stone paths and follow routes of significant cultural interest, or tackle lengthy ascents to the peaks of Mt Taygetus. But what attracts many nature lovers are two of its spectacular gorges, used as trails since ancient times. Vyros, the so-called “Royal Way,” was the natural route connecting Sparta with the harbor of Kardamyli, while Rindomo, intriguingly referred to by Pausanias as “Pig Valley,” marked the natural boundary between Messinia and Sparta. Arid, rugged and a long trek, be sure to wear sturdy walking shoes, take plenty of water and be particularly careful on the more difficult sections. As with all wild landscapes, certain spots with steep cliffs, crystal-clear rivers, dense vegetation and clusters of trees are especially captivating. But the highlight, just 4k from the village of Voreio, is certainly the amazing Pigadiotiko bridge. This awesome feat of engineering features two superimposed stone arches linking the sheer walls of the gorge, forming a bridge of exquisite beauty. 172

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gastronomy GREECE IS

PE LO P O N N ES E

LAN D OF PL EN TY

Imagine the Peloponnese as an enormous, finely spread table, full of colors, aromas and flavors. Here, the secret lies in freshness, traditional recipes, authentic preparations and, above all, simplicity. Part of a school map of Greece, Edition: B.G.D. Loukopoulos, Educational Maps and Atlases

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THE CUISINE

A Smorgasbord of Delights

RECIPE Potato salad with oranges, olives and onions

Beyond common culinary staples such as olive oil and feta, each part of the Peloponnese has its own gastronomic profile, shaped by local products and tradition. BY ANGELOS RENTOULAS

ith the Aegean Sea to the east and the Ionian to the west, the Peloponnese is renowned for fresh fish and seafood, with home cooks and taverna owners embracing everything the sea has to offer. From the elite of the marine world to the small and unbecoming, everything is treated with due respect. While the former may be grilled and served with a simple dressing of olive oil and lemon, the latter will most likely be fried in sizzling oil. Even the bottom-feeders and riff-raff are used in the legendary kakavia soup, which many claim hails from Mani or the nearby island of Kythera. According to one anecdote, a 19th century British traveler in Gytheio expressed his astonishment when hearing from a local fisherman that the fish is boiled in oil without any water. The fisherman simply remarked: “Why are you surprised? We have so much oil here we practically wash our hands in it!” Though probably poking fun at his foreign guest, the fisherman was not entirely wrong, as the Peloponnese produces the bulk of the country’s olive oil 174

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and has nine varieties with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). Olive oil is the star in myriad salads, vegetable casseroles, meat dishes and even desserts. It is used to fry the crunchy, honey-soaked diples and lalaggia (much like Spanish churros), and in the dough for sugar-coated Christmas kourabies cookies. Starring alongside the oil, olives are usually of the Kalamata variety picked from Koroneiki trees. Another product that is intrinsically linked to Peloponnesian cuisine is feta cheese and here they usually like it hard and tangy. Every region, every city and village, makes its own feta and believes it to be the best. From the mountains of Kalavryta to the plains of Argos and Tripoli, the taste of the feta changes according to the terroir that flavors the milk used in its production. Beyond these culinary staples, each part of the Peloponnese has its own gastronomic profile, shaped by local products and tradition. Laconia and Argolida, for example, produce a lot of citrus. Mani, on the other hand, is famous for its cured hams, born from the need to

preserve the meat in the time before refrigeration and still made in the traditional manner with orange rind for added flavor. One dish that probably best exemplifies local gastronomy is the orange salad made in Mani, a marriage of citrus, onions or leeks, olives and olive oil, eaten before the salad proper or prepared as a light meal with the addition of boiled potatoes. In Laconia, pride of place belong to its honey, scented with the wild herbs of the Taygetus and Parnon mountain ranges, as well as PDO sfela, or “fire cheese” as some like to call this bold, salty and slightly bitter cheese made with goat’s milk. Other delicacies that can be found in different parts of the Peloponnese include goglies, handmade pasta much like gnocchi, which is served with hot butter and grated, tangy myzithra cheese; tsaitia, small pies stuffed with wild greens; giant white beans ( gigantes) fried up with cured syglino pork; kagianas, or eggs scrambled with tomato sauce; hiouropaspalas, pork fried in a flour paste, and, of course, free-range cockerel in tomato sauce

RECIPE

Chicken in tomato sauce

served with pasta. In Vordonas, a small village at the foot of Taygetus, they add a few chunks of sfela right before serving. Argos is one of the biggest farming communities in the Peloponnese and supplies Greece with a vast variety of fruits and vegetables, the most renowned of which are Iria artichokes and fragrant Argos melons. It is also famous for its grains, used to produce the excellent bread and dried rusks that can be found in bakeries from Epidaurus to Tracheia. Ilia also boasts fine fruits and vegetables, such as Amaliada watermelons and Manolada strawberries. Classic dishes here include artichokes cooked with rice and served with egg-lemon sauce, beans stewed with wild greens, wild greens and trahana (fermented grain cooked in milk), and rabbit served with garlic paste (skordalia). Yet the product that helped build the Peloponnese’s cities and farms is the Corinthian currant, which was recently awarded Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. Boatloads of the dried fruit would leave Peloponnesian ports in the 19th century destined for Britain and return with cash and salted cod – which also explains 176

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why there are so many dishes with salted fish. Another specialty, found mainly in the west, is roasted sow, made with crackling skin and the meat falling off the bone in almost every taverna from Pyrgos to Kalamata. Sow and pork in general is also the meat of the Arcadians, who produce delicious potatoes in Tegea, the renowned Delicious Pilafa apples in Tripoli and sweet eggplants in Tsakonia, which are cooked in myriad ways, including as a sweet. The center of the region is dominated by Mt Mainalo, a rich source of chestnuts, cherries, sour cherries and the country’s only PDO-protected honey, made in Elati. Eggs scrambled with cured pork, pork cooked with tomato sauce and walnut paste or with apples and chestnuts, as well as different game stews complement the profile of the region’s hearty cuisine. On the coast of Achaia, the real stars are freshly caught fish, traditionally cooked whole, filleted along the backbone, or in a thick soup known as bourgeto. In the mountains, in Kalavryta for example, the cuisine is more bucolic and features a lot of meat (mainly lamb), cheeses and handmade pasta. Trout and salmon can also be

found in some villages with access to rivers. While Corinth’s raisins may be the region’s most famous product, the area of Feneos also boasts excellent grains and pulses, including small fava beans that are so tender they don’t need to be soaked before cooking. Locals use them to make a soup with pork and wild greens. The cuisine of Messinia probably best encompasses all the flavors and products of the Peloponnese, as it includes fish, cured pork, oranges, figs and raisins, among many, many other wonderful things. Raisins, for example, are used to make excellent balsamic vinegar, now available on the market under the Papadimitriou brand. As for fresh produce, the tomato is a firm favorite and best showcased in fresh salads, as well as in the signature cockerel stew. But if you want to taste all of the Peloponnese in one bite, get a thick slice of country bread, grate a juicy tomato on top, add plenty of crumbled feta, a sprinkling of oregano and a dash of olive oil. Simply unbeatable!

RECIPE Tsakoniki eggplant and chickpea casserole in tomato sauce

products

Certified Εxcellence Rivaled perhaps only by Crete, the Peloponnese is renowned for its impressive range of high-quality products, which have been gaining increasing international recognition. B Y c all i o p e p atera

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Mainalo fir honey

Feta

Tripoli apples

Sfela

Blond Nectar

All-time Classic

Heavenly Temptation

The Fire Cheese

The highest mountain range in Arcadia is home to a rare species of fir tree whose leaves are so dark they appear black. It is from the honeydew (resin) of this tree that bees produce Mainalo Vanilla Fir Honey, the only honey in Greece with PDO status. Light in color, thick and with a very distinctive flavor, it is also rich in nutrients such as potassium, magnesium, iron and phosphorus. However, because the hive must be destroyed in order to extract the honey, only a few beekeepers are engaged in its production, making it both hard to find and relatively expensive.

In some parts of Greece, such as Thessaly, feta is generally soft and mild in flavor, while elsewhere, Roumeli and Epirus in particular, it is hard and spicy. In the Peloponnese, one can savor the best of both worlds, for here, two PDO fetas are produced; one soft and buttery and the other semi-hard and tangy. Both are made with sheep’s milk or a 70-30 percent mixture of sheep’s and goat’s milk. The harder type is usually preferred in pies, “Greek” salad or as a side dish with a sprinkling of olive oil, while the softer variety is used mainly in dips and sauces.

A relatively poor region, Arcadia was depopulated by successive waves of emigration. However, some emigrants had second thoughts, among them Ilias Pilafas, who returned to his homeland from the United States in the early 20th century and brought with him seeds of the Golden Russet, mixing the cultivar with indigenous varieties. Pilafa Apples come exclusively from Tripoli and are PDO certified. With a yellow-green and red skin, white flesh and wonderful aroma, the apples are not only delicious but also rich in antioxidants that help lower bad cholesterol.

Made only in Messinia, using either 100 percent sheep’s milk or a 70-30 percent mixture of sheep’s and goat’s milk, much like feta, but here the curd is reheated, earning sfela the nickname “fire cheese.” Its official name is derived from the way it is cut (sfela meaning strip in the local dialect) after being drained in cloth and before maturing in brine for at least three months. Slightly offwhite, semi-hard and salty with a tangy kick, sfela can be enjoyed fresh in salad or on a piece of bread, but it is also excellent when fried in a breadcrumb crust.

Tsakoniki eggplant

Corinthian currant

One of a Kind

Queen of the North

Eggplants are grown all over Greece, but only those cultivated in the mountains of Tsakonia are entitled to the PDO certification. Long, shiny and light-purple with white stripes, not as bitter as regular eggplants, their flavor is quite unmistakable. They are also extremely nutritious as they are rich in vitamins (B complex especially), copper, manganese, potassium, folic acid and fiber. Remarkably versatile, they can be cooked in myriad ways, although they can be hard to come by, even in the Peloponnese.

The small, dark, seedless grapes of Vitis Vinifera L. variety are used to make the renowned Corinthian raisins, a commodity that comprised 75 percent of Greece’s total exports in the 19th century. Today, annual production comes to around 30,000 tons, 95 percent of which is exported. Sun-dried raisins are sweet and almost caramel-like in flavor, while those dried in the shade are slightly tarter and retain more of the grape’s natural flavor. Raisins are rich in antioxidants, provide a great energy boost thanks to their fructose and help control cholesterol and blood pressure.

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Kalamata olives Claim to Fame

A staple of agricultural production since at least 3600 BC, olives and olive oil continue to be the main source of income for farmers in the broader Kalamata region. A star among Greek PDO products, the Kalamata olive is known around the world not just for its distinctive flavor but also its high nutritional value. Produced from the Koroneiki variety, these olives are a large oval shape, crunchy and brownish-purple in color,

with a tart bite. They also stand out for the way they are prepared, which has remained unchanged for centuries. The traditional “Greek way” is to collect the bitter fruit from the tree and cure it in brine for at least three months. Though a lengthy process, it is the only way to ensure that the fruit does not lose any of its nutritional qualities. In other countries, olives are cured in caustic soda, which is a much faster way to make them edible,

but also destroys much of their goodness along the way. One way to tell how olives have been cured is from the color of the flesh: if they have a darker band around the outer part, they have been soaked in caustic soda; if their color is uniform, they have been cured in the traditional manner. While all olives are a good source of calcium and vitamins A, C, E and K, Kalamata olives also provide magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and B vitamins.

WORLD -FAMOUS

The Glorious Olive Greeks have built their homes around the olive tree since Homeric times. They use the oil from its fruit as a baptismal chrism, a source of nourishment and as fuel. BY C A L L I O P E PAT E R A

A bush of long-leafed olive was growing within the court, strong and vigorous, and girth it was like a pillar. Round about this I built my chamber.

Homer, Odyssey, Book 23, 195-198, translation Α.Τ. Murray, Harvard University Press, 1919.

The history of the olive tree in Greece predates that of the Greeks, as attested by the discovery on Santorini of petrified olive leaves estimated to be 50,000-60,000 years old. Ancient texts and age-old tombs also teem with evidence of olive production, while Homer described the fruit’s precious oil as “liquid gold” and Hippocrates believed it to be “the great healer.” The goddess Athena, in fact, is fabled to have given the Athenians the first-ever olive tree, the Moria Elaia. The glory of the olive could have been attributed to legend or fine story-telling were it not for the role it plays in the day-to-day lives of people, lives that are intrinsically linked to the olive and its oil. Greeks have built their homes aroun the olive tree since Homeric times. They use the oil from its fruit as a baptismal chrism, a source of nourishment and as fuel to keep alight the lanterns dedicated to their dearly departed. Utile, revered and a dietary staple, when Greeks refer to oil, they mean olive oil. 182

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A gift from the Peloponnese If the Peloponnese in particular had a symbol, it would be the olive, treasured throughout Greece but revered here. Olive oil in the Peloponnese is a source of pride, its trademark, and the tree’s cultivation is the main activity of the region’s largely agrarian communities. The oil is a medicine and a remedy, an elixir, a drizzle of which can liven up any dish or salad. The olive is harvested with care, by laborers with long poles atop ladders who gently shake off the fruit into large swathes of cloth to protect it from bruising. The fruit is then ground by large millstones and slowly churned in a process known as malaxation to gradually extract the precious oil, drop by drop, which is stored in large steel tanks to prevent oxidization. From the hills to the plains, the Peloponnesian earth is conducive to olive growing, with good drainage, constant rejuvenation thanks to favorable winds that stir up the soil, proximity to the sea and a temperate climate.

The Peloponnesian earth is conducive to olive growing, with good drainage, constant rejuvenation thanks to favorable winds that stir up the soil, proximity to the sea and a temperate climate.

Nine varieties of ancient olive grow in the Peloponnese and each, depending on where it’s planted, the microclimate and the cultivation methods used, yields oil with different densities, aromas, flavors and colors ranging from light blond to deep green.

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The main variety cultivated throughout the Peloponnese is the Koroneiki. On the eastern coast they also grow Manaki and in Laconia, in Sparta and its environs, Athinolia is widespread. Each of these has its own distinctive flavor profile. Koroneiki produces bold and slightly bitter oil; Manaki is more balanced but full-bodied; and Athinolia is smooth, fruity and fragrant. The varieties are also blended, usually on a robust Koroneiki base. Mixed with Athinolia, it gives a strong yet fragrant oil, while with Manaki the result is a more balanced, well-rounded bittersweet flavor.

In numbers Sixty percent of Greece’s arable land is given over to olive trees and there are about 132 million trees growing in this country of 11 million people, producing about 300,000 to 350,000 tons of oil a year. Of this, 65 percent comes from the Peloponnese. Greece ranks third in global production behind Spain and Italy, and 85 percent of its olives are defined as “extra virgin,” meaning they have few impurities. Half of national production (around 150,000-175,000 tons) is exported to the European Union and particularly to Italy, which absorbs three-quarters of the outgoing product. The remainder stays in the domestic market, making Greeks, who are estimated to use 18 kilos per person per year, the leaders in per capita olive oil consumption, above Spain’s average of 12 kg/year and Italy’s 10 kg/year.

Maximizing the advantage Until recently, olive oil producers in the Peloponnese were more concerned with improving the quality of their olive oil than boosting its actual commercial value – much like Olympic athletes competing for honor and an olive wreath. Satisfied with production,

1. The olives are gently shaken into large swathes of cloth to protect them from bruising.

2. Olive-oil tasting has evolved into a science, much like that of wine.

most growers sold it – and many continue to do so – at extremely low prices to the Italians, who had become savvy to modern marketing much earlier than their Greek colleagues. Today, local producers are becoming more aware of the comparative advantages of Peloponnesian olive oil and an increasing number are selling their oil in well-designed, attractive packaging directly to foreign markets or using it to make innovative health and skin-care products. A series of awards and accolades at international events has been instrumental in this progress, as too have numerous academic studies pointing to the benefits of olive oil consumption and highlighting the qualities of the Peloponnese’s oil in particular.

The benefits If you ask an elderly man or woman in a Messinian village to share the secret to longevity, they will probably say: “good oil, no stress.” Studies have shown that olive oil’s phenol content helps combat “bad” cholesterol (LDL) and prevent cardiovascular disease. Newer research is also stressing its anti-inflammatory qualities, finding that it can have a beneficial effect on genes and help prevent cancer. What is less known to the general public is that not all olive oils have the same beneficial properties, even when they may be in the same category, for instance extra virgin. The European Union has laid down standards regulating how olive oil can be described in terms of benefits. Meanwhile, studies by Athens University Medical School, headed by pharmacology professor Prokopis Magiatis, and in cooperation with several US universities, have shown that areas such as Messinia and Laconia produce olive oils with up to 50 percent more beneficial properties than EU standard requirements but also above the average found in the majority of oils on the international market.

3. The Kalamata olive’s skin is a distinctive dark purple, almost black, color.

4. While there were just two certified oil-tasters in Greece up until a few years ago, now there are hundreds.

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Museum of the Olive and Greek Olive Oil Greece’s first museum dedicated to the olive and to olive oil was created in the town of Sparta, under the aegis of the Piraeus Bank Cultural Foundation. The institution showcases the history of olive oil and its progression from grove to table, as well as highlighting its different uses as a product of both nutrition and body care, while also running educational programs for visitors of all ages. Ancient pottery, modern sculptures, rare petrified olive leaves and reproductions of traditional mill equipment offer a fascinating insight into how olive oil has been produced through the ages. Different varieties of olive trees grow in the museum’s garden, while the shop offers more than 30 different local labels to take home as a tasty souvenir or gift. Info 129 Othonos Amalias St, Sparta, tel (+30) 27310-893.15 Open daily except Tuesdays, 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.

5. An increasing number of producers are investing in high-end bottling facilities to increase the competitive advantage of their product.

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grapeland In the hands of very capable viniculturists, indigenous grape varieties are yielding quality wines.

BY ME ROPI PAPADOPOULOU

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iniculture in the ancient land of Peloponnese goes back at least 4,000-5,000 years. According to legend, the Atreides were particularly partial to Phliasian wine (from the plain of Phlius, i.e. present-day Nemea), while in medieval times, the celebrated sweet wine from the area of Monemvasia, Malvasia, was a big hit throughout the known world. The centuries passed and after the dark period of Turkish occupation which resulted in the uprooting of many vineyards, the wine-loving Peloponnese gradually got back on its feet. So much so that today, in the hands of very capable viniculturists, indigenous grape varieties such as Agiorgitiko, Moschofilero, Mavrodaphne and Roditis are yielding quality wines that are warmly received and awarded at major international competitions, are justifiably claiming a place in the global market and are being exported in large quantities. Soaring mountain massifs, a lacelike coastline, large plateaus and deep valleys create the appropriate “embrace” for the cultivation and protection of vineyards exposed to the gentle caress of both sea breezes and mountain flows, with the best terroirs located mainly in mountainous and semi-mountainous areas. Despite the geographical diversity of the Peloponnese, the vineyards of the peninsula should be considered as a whole. It is the region with the highest wine production in Greece. A good starting point for any wine tour of the Peloponnese is Nemea. Around the town, covering an area of some 3,000 hectares, extends the kingdom of the local Agiorgitiko variety, one of Greece’s most important red grapes

which accounts for a high percentage of the country’s total production. The plain, hillsides and uplands, at altitu des of 260 to 800 meters, surrounded by major archaeological sites such as Ancient Nemea, Ancient Kleones and Aidonia, are home to vineyards and notable wineries that produce high-quality wines with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Nemea certification. The settlement itself, the old village of Aghios Georgios that gave its name to the local grape, may not immediately catch the eye. But don’t be too quick to judge. Here, the real treasures lie behind the wineries’ doors. The latter are numerous and interesting, modern or traditional and more or less accessible to visitors, with most owners quite happy to share the region’s viticultural wealth. Our tour continues on the Arcadian plateau of Mantineia, one of the coolest Greek wine-growing zones. Here, at a distance of just 16k from the bustling city of Tripoli, at an altitude of 650m, in a spectacular landscape between an ancient theater, almond trees, picturesque villages and low hills, 1,000 hectares of vineyards are planted with pink-skinned Moschofilero, which produces exquisite, particularly aromatic white wines that have found fans all over the world. Returning to Nemea and proceeding west 160 km, we enter the prefecture of Achaia. The main variety in vineyards here is the white grape used to make the unique, sweet PDO Muscat of Rio Patras, as well as the PDO Mavrodaphne whose history began in 1873, when in a tower house at Petroto in Patra the Bavarian Gustav Clauss, a currant merchant and founder of the Achaia Clauss winery, was inspired by the dark eyes (mavro) of his beautiful

Despite the geographical diversity of the Peloponnese, its vineyards should be considered as a whole. It is the region with the highest wine production in Greece.

fiancée, Daphne, to create this fortified wine that still serves as a benchmark for Greek wine production. Today, the Mavrodaphne grape is cultivated to produce traditional sweet, long-aged wines, but it also figures prominently in the new trend of creating dry wines that are increasingly winning over the demanding palates of oenophiles. Our visit to Achaia would not be complete without ascending to the vineyards of mountainous Aigialeia, where Roditis – the most planted white grape variety in Greece – is masterfully transformed into refreshingly crisp whites. Continuing southward, we pass through the vineyards of Ilia and Messinia, where international varieties are successfully vying with their Agiorgitiko and Roditis cousins, until we finally reach stunningly beautiful Laconia and the medieval fortress town of Monemvasia. Thanks to the efforts of local producers, the celebrated Byzantine-era wine of Monemvasia, Malvasia, is once again claiming its rightful place, now with PDO certification. Visitors to this area will also have the opportunity to try a number of other interesting wines made from the alluring Kydonitsa and the bolder Petroulianos varieties that are gradually making inroads. We have left the fortified town of Mystras till the end. In the shadow of the imposing, storied ruins, a glass of chilled PDO Monemvasia-Malvasia in hand, this is the perfect place to reflect on the history of the grape-rich Peloponnese, which is none other than the history of the people who down the centuries have breathed life into the land by cultivating the vine and filling the glasses of oenophiles in Greece and all over the world with fine wine.

PELOPONNESE WINE MAP A handy infographic with all the info you’ll need.

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Agiorgitiko Versatile Red

Greece’s best known red variety offers both quantity and quality, fresh easy-to-drink but also complex aged wines, in a wide range of colors, styles and prices. Agiorgitiko is grown mainly in Corinthia, neighboring Nemea but also in other parts of the Peloponnese. Depending on the vinification method, the grape yields lively, aromatic rosés, fresh reds with cherry flavors and smooth textured roundness, as well as spicy, oak-aged, velvety wines. More demanding palates are sure to appreciate the “super Nemeans,” carefully blended and left to mature in a new barrel, resulting in a marvelously full body, high acidity, smooth fruitiness and strong tannins. The complex bouquet is full of sour cherry, sage and thyme, minerals, licorice, violet and smoky sweetness from the new oak. Agiorgitiko is an ideal food wine. Pasta, any type of meat, dishes featuring tomato, olive-oil based ragouts, stews and casseroles pair wonderfully with the classic Nemean, which is also one of only a handful of greek reds which go well with grilled, oil-rich fish.

WINE

MOSCHOFILERO

Best-selling White

Greece’s most popular white grape variety, both in and outside the country, brings spring to your glass in the form of white and blanc de gris wines. Its great attraction is the unique, inimitable bouquet of white-fleshed fruit, citrus, rose and exotic lychee. Moschofilero is cultivated in many wine-growing areas of the Peloponnese, but is particularly suited to the cool Arcadian plateau of Mantineia, which is responsible for the slow maturation and one of the latest harvests in the country (usually in early October), factors that endow the variety with exceptional aroma and a certain elegance. It can be enjoyed equally as an aperitif and as an outstanding accompaniment to a wide range of appetizers. Simple green salads, croquettes or small pies, fresh white cheeses, but also pasta with pesto or other light yet lively sauces all pair well with Moschofilero. As do small fried fish, squid and even stuffed cabbage leaves, particularly in their more lemony versions. Late harvest wines serve to enhance exotic dishes, such as shrimps with ginger, while barrel-aged labels are great with fusion preparations of fish or white meat. Any self-respecting oenophile should definitely try the very elegant rosés, but also the intriguing dry sparkling wines, which will provide a more comprehensive and very pleasing Moschofilero experience.

Mavrodaphne Black Diva

Mavrodaphne

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While there are experimental plantings all over Greece, Mavrodaphne’s heartland is the northwest Peloponnese, especially the area around Patras. A relatively early variety, it is taken directly to vinification tanks and before fermentation is complete, fortified to produce the dessert wine gems many of us savor. An increasing number of winemakers are also growing more confident of their ability to produce not only excellent sweet but also fine dry wines. A good, dry Mavrodaphne is similar to a first-class Syrah, since it is bursting with black fruit flavors and aromatic herbal notes, sage in particular. One sip is enough to appreciate Mavrodaphne’s distinctive strength, unique freshness and vitality, combining fullness of body with relatively low alcohol content. Though it is often said that good wines pair with anything, you certainly won’t go wrong with a rich meat casserole, a game dish or a heavy recipe with eggplants. But a thick cut of beef from an older animal accompanied by a good bottle will send you to seventh heaven. Desserts with coffee, dried fruits, figs or caramel pair admirably with a quality, sweet Mavrodaphne; the same is true of dry, nutty, blue cheeses such as Stilton. Then again, what could be better than a 20-year-old gem of a label with a spicy Cuban cigar?

WINE

Malvasia

RODITIS

Legend Revived

The most important chapter in the modern history of Peloponnesian wine begins at what Pausanias called Akra Minoa, present-day Monemvasia. This is where Malvasia is produced, the famed sweet wine so loved by Frankish mariners who arrived at the port to load their vessels with the precious cargo. During Ottoman occupation, the Monemvasian vineyards were destroyed. It was centuries before vines were replanted in the wider area and certain persistent producers began the revival of the historic wine, with experimental plantings and exhaustive studies. The varietal composition of today’s Malvasia is Monemvasia (at least 51 percent), Assyrtiko, Asproudes and Kydonitsa, all indigenous whites. The wines entitled to the PDO status are the sweet whites made from vine-dried grapes. They must remain in barrels (oxidative ageing) for a minimum of two years and then four, or multiples of four, i.e. eight, 12 and so on. The younger wines, boast impressive acidity, a golden color and aromas of fruit, fresh grapes, milky caramel, coffee and honey. The older ones have a darker, orange-brown color and an intensely aromatic nose. They bring to mind grape spoon-sweet, coffee, caramelized peach, with notes of chocolate and coffee, dry blond raisins and tobacco. The aftertaste is exceptionally long.

roditis

A Discreet Companion

MALVASIA

Roditis is now the most widely planted white variety in the country. From Achaia to Imathia and from Evia to Thrace, it is easily discernible on account of the characteristic rosé-colored grapes. The main variety in Achaia, Roditis is most at home in the highland vineyards of Aigialeia, where the cool climate, ideal soil conditions, efforts to counter overproduction, and careful, modern vinification, result in exceptional wines that do not benefit from contact with a barrel. In the glass they are thus free to express themselves without frills, offering an enviable combination of balance, freshness, discreet yet at the same time complex lemony aromas with mineral notes, wonderful acidity and brilliant clarity. Roditis is equally interesting when blended with other varieties, though it shows a clear preference for full-bodied rather than aromatic grapes. Discreet aromas, high acidity and light body make Roditis the perfect companion for just about half the dishes of Greek cuisine: raw shellfish, fried fish, salads and greens, fried cheese and croquettes, pasta with fresh sauces (e.g. pesto), pies and tarts with cheese or vegetables. When blended, try it with poultry in lemon sauce, grilled fish and delicious stuffed vine leaves, as well as fresh goat’s cheese, for a memorable Roditis dinner.

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