GREECE IS | ATHENS | SUMMER 2019

EXPERIENCE CULTURE, GASTRONOMY & MORE

AT H E N S

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ISSN: 2529-041X

ISSUE #38 | SUMMER 2019 EDITION

30 - 56

BO O MT O W N

Athens is evolving to welcome record numbers of tourists with new accommodation, entertainment and infrastructure for visitors and locals alike.

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L AND MARKS

We meet the woman overseeing the restoration of the Parthenon and explore the ancient neighborhood beneath the Acropolis Museum.

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S T REET ART

As artists from Greece and around the world fill the city with color, we investigate why Athens became a kaleidoscopic capital of street art.

114 - 159

S UMMER GUID E

Locals share their secrets for beating the heat and we learn how best to experience Europe’s most vibrant summer capital.

Spoiler alert: ice creams galore.

© ALEX AGGOURIDAKIS

WELCOME

THE CITY SOARS

With record levels of tourism come exciting new ventures and new challenges.

B Y G I O R G O S T S I R O S / E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F, G R E E C E I S

A cornucopia of dining, entertainment, shopping and cultural options are propelling Athens’ meteoric rise as a major city-break destination. In fact, there’s so much to do and see that, if locals were to play at being tourists for a weekend and head out on the town after booking themselves a room or a suite at one of many new boutique hotels that have sprung up in downtown Athens, they’d probably be amazed at just how much fun their own city can be.

As visitor numbers reach new heights each year, business activity downtown continues to flourish; new, high-quality restaurants, bars and shops are opening all the time, and confident investors are transforming old buildings into sparkling hotels that offer a range of new options to visitors looking for something more than an affordable Airbnb.

In the meantime, a change of guard in the city’s leadership heralds a new beginning for the Greek capital after the trials and tribulations of a decade-long crisis. An ambitious new municipal authority takes over in September, with a comprehensive plan for improving quality of life across the city by improving public services and implementing

new projects to beautify neighborhoods and create new green spaces.

These are the issues we address in the first few pages of this, the ninth edition of Greece Is Athens, before we dive deeper: exploring the ancient city under the Acropolis Museum; witnessing the monumental task of conserving and restoring the Parthenon; surveying Pangrati’s transformation from a historic residential neighborhood into the hippest spot in town; and observing the exciting evolution of Athens’ street art scene.

The aim of this issue is not only to offer you a glimpse into what this city is all about today, but also to help you have the best time possible during your stay, even if it’s just for two or three days. Our summer guide suggests places to go and things to do both in town and outside the city center that will enrich your experience and perhaps even compel you to push back your departure date, as you, too, discover just how much Athens and its surroundings have to offer.

At venues like the all-day café-bar-event space six d.o.g.s in Monasteraki, the summer beat never slows.

AT H E N S S U M M E R 2 019

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“Spilia” means “Ca ve”. ―

Visit the natural cave of Mykonos

CONTENTS G R E E C E I S - I S S U E # 3 8 AT H E N S S U M M E R 2 0 19 E D I T I O N

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14. THE COOL CHART City influencers and their favorite spots.

point to meet the needs of growing numbers of visitors.

18. AGENDA Stay up to speed with the most exciting events in Athens’ packed summer cultural calendar.

40. WORK IN PROGRESS

30. NEW ARRIVALS

46. HOTEL BOOM

New food, drink and shopping options are popping up all over town. We help you find the latest and greatest.

38. LYCABETTUS An ambitious redevelopment plan is transforming central Athens’ highest

PUBLISHED BY:

Exerevnitis-Explorer S.A. Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos, Athens, 18547, Greece Tel. (+30) 210.480.8000 Fax (+30) 210.480.8202

Record tourist numbers and a major influx of investment are proof that Athens has rediscovered its mojo.

Mapping out the newest hotel arrivals.

50. OVERTOURISM

66. ACROPOLIS MUSEUM Exploring the museum’s latest exhibit, the ancient neighborhood beneath the building.

72. THE ESSENTIALS Archaeological sites and museums at a glance.

ISSN: 2529-041X

COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT:

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Giorgos Tsiros

(editor@greece-is.com)

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR:

Vassiliki Albani, (valbani@kathimerini.gr)

Xenia Katsioula (xkatsioula@kathimerini.gr)

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Meet the woman overseeing the restoration of one of the world’s most iconic buildings.

How is Athens is coping with rising tourist numbers.

Can the city keep everybody happy?

ADVERTISING MANAGER:

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58. THE PARTHENON PROJECT

84. GUIDE ME! Alternative tours are all the rage in Athens today.

Eva Loudi

Tel. (+30) 210.480.8227 Fax (+30) 210.480.8228 E-mails: sales@greece-is.com emporiko@kathimerini.gr PUBLIC RELATIONS:

welcome@greece-is.com

94. PANGRATI Lifting the curtain on a newly resurgent Athenian neighborhood.

104. STREET ART What can you learn about the city from its technicolor walls? We meet the spraycan specialists.

114. BEAT THE HEAT How to make the most of everything the city has to offer and keep your cool when the temperatures rise.

154. GET OUT OF TOWN Our favorite summer escapes – each within a day’s ride from Athens.

GREECE IS – ATHENS

is a biannual publication, distributed free of charge.

It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.

ON THE COVER: “Even Gods Deserve a Break,” an illustration

by Tiago Majuelos (www.tiagomajuelos.com)

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INSIDERS

THE COOL CHART

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IT’S A DATE!

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GUILTY PLEASURE

GEORGE ANTHOULAKIS

PAVLINA VOULGARAKI

A nice date would start at

PALEO (39 POLIDEFKOUS, PIRAEUS) IS NEAR TWO OF THE BEST GREEK ART GALLERIES, RODEO AND INTERMISSION. HOUSED IN AN OLD WAREHOUSE, IT STOCKS EXQUISITE WINES BY SMALL PRODUCERS.

CHIEF COMMUNICATIONS AND CREATIVE OFFICER AT KORRES korres.com | @ginotron

DÉSIRÉ (6 Dimokritou) for a

coffee and some Greek desserts. Then we would watch a movie and grab a bite at DEXAMENI open air cinema.

ÉSOPHY (10 Aghiou Tryfonos,

FOOD AND COCKTAILS AT PRIVATE COOKING CLASSES FROM SQUARE ATHENS. BOOK A GREEK BRUNCH COOKING SEMINAR VIA INSTAGRAM (@SQUAREATHENS).

AKI PIERRO BARBER

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PAMPER YOURSELF

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SHOPPING TIP

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A SECRET

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SINGER AND SONGWRITER @pavlina_voulgaraki

(45 Solonos) for a hottowel shave followed by a cold-towel finish. Then a Sultan Hammam at POLIS HAMMAM (6-8 Avliton) at midday, to help you endure the summer heat.

RODAKIO (59B KOLOKOTRONI) IS A BEAUTIFUL BOOKSTORE HIDDEN AT THE END OF A LITTLE ARCADE; IT ALSO HOSTS ARTISTS’ EXHIBITIONS. The Nolan Gin at NOLAN restaurant (33 Voulis). The owners say I was the inspiration behind this, so think of me while you enjoy it. Then take a night walk through the city center and its hills.

Kifissia) make the freshest chocolates, inspired by Mediterranean traditions.

Customers can watch the chocolates being made on the spot. The salted caramel almonds are a must.

HILARION MEDITATION CENTER AND ASHRAM (6 KOKKINAKI, KIFISSIA) IS IN A BEAUTIFUL HOUSE AND GARDEN. IT’S A SPIRITUAL WAY TO TREAT YOURSELF, WITH MEDITATION AND MUCH MORE. opencloseT (45 Marasli, Kolo-

naki) sells unique vintage and second-hand clothing, shoes and bags. The shop also has its own fashion label which gives vintage clothes a new lease on life.

THE IMPRESSIVE GARDENS AT THE FRENCH SCHOOL AT ATHENS (6 DIDOTOU). LOSE YOURSELF ON A SUNNY DAY IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SECRET GARDENS IN ATHENS.

DIMITRI MOTHONAIOS ACTOR AND YOUTUBER @motho_naios

IT RESTAURANT (29 Skoufa) is

my “office.” It’s where I have all my meetings and appointments in the center and it is the best spot for unexpected meetings with friends who also use it as an “office.”

MADAME PHU MAN CHU (36 PRAXITELOUS) SERVES UP THE BEST VIETNAMESE CUISINE IN ATHENS.

RENATO (35 Skoufa) in Kolonaki offers old-school facial treatments for men and women.

DANGEROUS MINDS (34 KOLOKOTRONI) STOCKS CLOTHES YOU CAN’T EVEN FIND IN LOS ANGELES.

The rooftop bar at the hotel THE ARTIST ATHENS

(7 Kalamida) just opened and it’s great.

ILLUSTRATIONS: PHILLIPOS AVRAMIDES

Six Athenian influencers recommend some of their favorite spots.

INSIDERS

SOTIRIS KONTIZAS

CHEF AND FOUNDER OF NOLAN RESTAURANT nolanrestaurant.gr | @scontizas

IT’S A DATE!

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GUILTY PLEASURE

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PAMPER YOURSELF

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SHOPPING TIP

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A SECRET

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JEWELRY DESIGNER AND CO-FOUNDER OF PRIGIPO prigipo.com

OINOSCENT (45-47

Voulis) was the first wine bar to open in Athens. Down the street from Nolan, the team there are neighbors, friends and fellow wine lovers.

GRAB A DRINK AT TO LOKALI (44 SARRI) OR ON THE TERRACE OF THE HOTEL FOUNDRY (40 SARRI).

FANI SPYRIDAKI

ACTRESS AND CO-OWNER OF NOEL BAR @thenoelbar

I’m biased, but you can celebrate every day at NOEL (59B Kolokotroni).

Great choice for a first date.

I can’t resist

FIOR DI LATTE AND ZABAGLIONE ICE CREAM FROM LE GRECHE (16 MITROPOLEOS). BEST ICE CREAM IN TOWN.

I pamper myself at SUSHIMOU (6 Skoufou). Dining there is an experience, and Antonis Drakoularakos is an absolute sushi expert.

ELLINIKA KALOUDIA (51 KALLIDROMIOU) FOR EXCELLENT BREAD, COLD CUTS, OLIVES, CHEESE AND TRACHANAS (FERMENTED CRACKED WHEAT) FROM AROUND GREECE. STAVROS TSAMIS’ Le pizzaio-

lo tu corazon (“the pizzaiolo of your hearts”) makes fab pizza with sourdough. He organizes pop-up events around Athens. Track him down via Instagram (@pizzaiolo_tu_corazon).

CHOUREÁL

(2 Diomeias) for choux and profiteroles or LE GRECHE (16 Mitropoleos).

PUT SOME MUSIC ON YOUR HEADPHONES AND ENJOY THE WONDERS OF THE NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (44 PATISSION).

PARAPHERNALIA

for any home items you require (15 Paparrigopoulou) and AKIRA MUSHI for unique outfits (2 Fokionos).

WANDER AROUND VOKOS HILL (GORDIOU, PIRAEUS). THERE’S A DIFFERENT SIDE TO ATTICA THERE, AND IT’S AN EXTRAORDINARY ONE.

NANCY’S SWEET HOME (1 IROON SQUARE) IN PSYRRI. THE CHOCOLATE “LOVE CAKE” IS THE EIGHTH DEADLY SIN.

Try a hammam session with a shampoo and massage at HAMMAM BATHS (17 Aghion Asomaton & 1 Melidoni).

Then, enjoy your tea with a loukoumi (Turkish delight).

THE PAPER PLACE (27 KOLOKOTRONI) IS A SMALL TREASURE TROVE WHERE YOU CAN FIND HANDMADE JAPANESE PAPER, CALLIGRAPHY AND ENGRAVING TOOLS, GREAT SILKSCREENS AND INKS. THE FOUNDRY HOTEL’S rooftop

garden (40 Sarri), for a bottle of wine or a wellstocked picnic basket, to share with friends.

ILLUSTRATIONS: PHILLIPOS AVRAMIDES

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KALOMIRA PAPAGEORGIOU

AGENDA

THE SEASON COMES ALIVE

A summer of art, music, cinema, theater and more fills Athens’ cultural agenda.

BY X E N I A GEORGI A DOU

07092019 ROCK REVOLUTION

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©AOAFF 2016/ VANGELIS PATSIALOS

CITY CINEMA

Masterpieces of world cinema, modern Greek shorts and features, premieres, indie gems and silent wonders accompanied by live music are all being screened at various open-air venues around Athens. Museum forecourts, public squares, pedestrianized streets, parks and archaeological sites all become summer movie theaters, to the delight of the growing fanbase of the annual Athens Open Air Film Festival. • aoaff.gr

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SUMMER SYMBOL

Taking inspiration from Nikolaos Lytras’ famous “Straw Hat” painting, the Eleni Marneri Galerie’s latest exhibition declares straw hats the quintessential symbol of the Greek summer. Handmade hats by Liza Sarigiannidou are presented with artful embellishments added by the stylist Michalis Pantos, while designers Niki Psychogiou and Irini-Louisa Andrikopoulou present relaxed, uncomplicated clothing that helps complete the summer look. • “Harvest,” Eleni Marneri Galerie, 5-7 Lembessi & 16 Ponirou, Makriyianni, elenimarneri.com (Metro: Acropolis) 18

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Four singers – Rachael Wooding, Jon Boydon, Peter Eldridge and Julie Stark – stars of the West End’s hit rock musical “We Will Rock You,” take the stage at the Roman-era Odeon of Herodes Atticus in a show that celebrates the legendary British band Queen. The singers will be joined by the Athens Symphony Orchestra and a 10-member rock band led by acclaimed guitarist Adam Martin. • “Queen Symphonic,” Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel. (+30) 210.324.1807 (Metro: Acropolis)

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ALEXIS VASILIKOS, #8076 (MASK SERIES), 2019, COURTESY THE ARTIST AND CAN CHRISTINA ANDROULIDAKI GALLERY

GOOD MISTAKES

Scratches, dust, over-exposure: the imperfections photographers normally fix when processing their images form the bedrock of Alexis Vasilikos’ abstract collection “Masks.”

The second part comprises the series “The Oceanic,” which consists of digitally processed landscapes that draw parallels with romanticism and pictorialism and which, according to the artist, are based on Romain Rolland’s notion of an “oceanic feeling” to describe that sense of being a part of the universe. • “Masks and the Oceanic,” CAN Christina Androulidaki Gallery, 42 Anagnostopoulou, Kolonaki, can-gallery.com (Metro: Evangelismos). In August, by appointment only at Tel. (+30) 210.339.0833 AT H E N S S U M M E R 2 019

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MUSICAL ANTHOLOGY

The eminently talented musician, composer, stage performer and singer Andrea Bocelli returns to Athens after an absence of several years for a single show at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. The program comprises selections from the classical/symphonic repertory, popular opera and operetta arias, Italian ballads and modern pop. The Italian legend is joined by Greece’s ERT Symphony Orchestra and Choir, with Marcello Rota conducting.

The concert is organized by the non-profit International Foundation for Greece (IFG), of which Bocelli is an honorary patron. • Andrea Bocelli, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel. (+30) 210.324.1807, if-gr.org (Metro: Acropolis)

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ABSTRACT EVOLUTION

The chronology of abstract art in Greece does not coincide with the emergence of the trend in the rest of Europe. The paths it traveled and how it went from being derided in the 1950s to critical acclaim in the mid-1960s is the subject of a fascinating exhibition at the Alex Mylona Museum.

The show features work by Yannis Gaitis, George Zongolopoulos, Vlassis Kaniaris, Nikos Kessanlis, Kostas Koulentianos, Alex Mylona, Kosmas Xenakis, Chrysa Romanou, Theodoros Stamos and Yiannis Spyropoulos, among others. • “Untitled II: Greek Postwar Abstraction: The Heroic Years,” MOMus-Alex Mylona Museum, 5 Aghion Asomaton Square, Thiseio, Tel. (+30) 210.321.5717 (Metro: Thiseio)

15&16092019 BEJART LANDMARKS

Just two years after they were last here, the Béjart Ballet Lausanne company returns to the Greek capital with three landmark pieces at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

The show opens with Mikis Theodorakis’ “Seven Greek Dances,” choreographed by the legendary ensemble’s founder, Maurice Béjart, followed by “Tous les hommes presque toujours s’imaginent,” with music by John Zorn and choreography by Béjart artistic director Gil Roman. The final part features a piece presented by Béjart for the first time in 1961, his “Bolero,” inspired by the Ravel classic.

Béjart Ballet Lausanne, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel. (+30) 210.324.1807 (Metro: Acropolis) •

© GREGORY BATARDON

ACHILLEAS APERGIS, THE MOVEMENT, 1975, MOMUS-MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART-MACEDONIAN MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART AND STATE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART COLLECTIONS

DIMITRIS CONDOS, TRANSFORMATIONS, ROME1959, COURTESY CAN CHRISTINA , ANDROULIDAKI GALLERY

AGENDA

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HUMAN FIGURES

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CONQUERING THE MOON

Celebrating 50 years since man first stepped on the moon, The Project Gallery is hosting work by Greek and foreign artists that explores the effect of Earth’s only permanent natural satellite on human activity and creativity. From mythology and folk customs to literature, poetry and cinema, it is obvious that the moon has excited the collective imagination throughout the ages. • “Man on the Moon,” The Project Gallery, 14 Theatrou Square, theprojectgallery.gr (Metro: Omonia, Monastiraki)

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THE NOTION OF TRANSFORMATION

Exploring Heraclitus’ saying that “You can never cross the same river twice,” the Deste Foundation of Contemporary Art, the New Museum of New York and Greece’s Benaki Museum present an exhibition focusing on the art 22

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Confused, remote, depressed, arrogant, indifferent: the human figures at the center of the work of four acclaimed Greek artists – Apostolos Georgiou, Steve Giannakos, Makis Theofylaktopoulos and George Lappas – bear all the traits of modern man, which is why they’re so familiar.

The four celebrated figures of postwar Greek art, each renowned for his distinctive style and vernacular, are presented to the public in a show that addresses the challenges of depicting man. • “Beyond Your Shadow: Four Ways to Describe a Human Being,” Athens Municipal Art Center, Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Eleftherias Park, opanda.gr (Metro: Megaro Moussikis)

scene in Athens. More than 30 artists of different ages and nationalities who are inspired by and work in the Greek capital have come together to comment through a range of mediums on its constant transformation, and to paint the portrait of a city with an ever-evolving cultural life.

“The Same River Twice: Contemporary Art in Athens,” Benaki Museum - Pireos, 138 Pireos & Andronikou, benaki.gr, deste.gr (Metro: Kerameikos) •

PANAYIOTIS LOUKAS, PERCEPTION VS PERSUASION, 2017. COURTESY THE ARTIST. PHOTO: KOSMAS STATHOPOULOS | ANASTASIA DOUKA, MARATHON RUNNER, (‘TO THE MEMORY OF SPIROS LOUIS’, 1989 BY NIKOS PERADINOS AT EFFORIONOS STREET, ATHENS), 2017 (IN-PROCESS). COURTESY THE ARTIST. PHOTO: ANASTASIA DOUKA | AMALIAVEKRI, GOLDII, 2018. COURTESY THE ARTIST

© GIORGOS LAPPAS

AGENDA

AGENDA ©PAVLOS SAMIOS. DIMITRIS TSITOURAS COLLECTION

0310 03112019 ENCHANTING VIEW

2509 17112019

Odysseas Elytis, Giorgos Seferis and scores of other writers have waxed lyrical about Santorini’s natural attractions, just as dozens of visual artists have been unable to resist the siren call of the island’s stunning landscapes. Dimitris Tsitouras is a collector who has spent the past 20 years tracking down and acquiring paintings by Greek artists inspired by Santorini, 80 of which are being shown by the Benaki Museum. Standouts include selections from artists of the Thirties Generation – Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, Yiannis Moralis and Spyros Vassiliou – as well as later artists like Opy Zouni, Costas Tsoclis and Pavlos Samios. • “The Santorini Landscape in 20th-Century Greek Painting,” Benaki Museum-Pireos, 138 Pireos & Andronikou, benaki.gr (Metro: Kerameikos)

A TRIBUTE TO ALEXIS AKRITHAKIS

©OPI ZOUNI. DIMITRIS TSITOURAS COLLECTION

“My relationship with painting is completely impulsive. It is like looking at any empty space, where a single dot can become a starting point,” said Alexis Akrithakis, one of the most important figures in the postwar art scene in Greece. Marking 80 years since his birth and 25 since his death, the Benaki Museum is organizing an exhibition dedicated to one of the artist’s signature techniques, which came to be known colloquially as “tsiki-tsiki,” a dense black-andwhite drawing style that defined much of his work from the 1960s through the mid-1970s. • “Alexis Akrithakis: Tsiki-Tsiki,” Museum of Greek Culture, 1 Koumbari & Vasilissis Sofias, benaki.gr (Metro: Evangelismos)

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AGENDA

20102019 PICASSO AND GREECE

Jean Cocteau. At the age of 65, the versatile artist – who was renowned for flirting with different mediums and his fascination with transformation – turned his hand to clay and drew inspiration from ancient Greek art and mythology. Now, 68 works by Picasso – human figures, fish, birds, mythical creatures – are being dis-

played alongside relevant artifacts in order to underscore how ancient Greek culture forms an integral part of modern art.

• “Picasso and Antiquity: Line and Clay,” Museum of Cycladic Art, 4 Neofytou Douka, www.cycladic.gr (Metro: Evangelismos) CLAY OWL FIGURINE, ARKADES CEMETERY 7TH CENTURY BC © HELLENIC MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF HERAKLEION ©PHOTO PARIS TAVITIAN

PABLO PICASSO, THE OWL. VALLAURIS, 12 DECEMBER 1952. MADRID, FUNDACION ALMINE Y BERNARD RUIZ-PICASSO PARA EL ARTE. ON TEMPORARY LOAN TO THE MUSEO PICASSO MALAGA. © SUCCESSION PICASSO 2019

Picasso may never have visited Greece, but he had an intense connection with its ancient culture.

This started when he was a student and grew deeper and stronger later in life, thanks to his personal and professional connections with people like Teriade, Christian Zervos and

22102019 PIONEERING MUSIC

Respected Belgian composer Wim Mertens, a leading figure in the contemporary classical and avant-garde music scenes, takes the stage at the Pallas Theater with a program of pieces composed for films and plays, and well as tracks from his latest album, “That Which is Not.” • “Wim Mertens-Athens,” Pallas Theater, 5 Voukourestiou, Tel. (+30) 210.360.8366 (Metro: Syntagma) 26

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© GIORGOS VITSAROPOULOS

©ANASTASIA KOUTSAMBELA

AGENDA

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FRUIT OF THE LAND

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CRAFTSMEN AND LABORERS

Marble craftsmen and laborers gather together on a giant scaffolding platform as they work to maneuver enormous pieces of sculpted marble on the Acropolis. In celebration of the 10th anniversary of the Acropolis Museum, its temporary exhibition hall is displaying a collection of photographs dedicated to the craftsmen, conservators and other workers involved in the restoration and conservation of the splendid ancient monuments. • “Chisel and Memory: The Contribution of Marble Craftsmanship to the Restoration of the Acropolis Monuments,” Acropolis Museum, 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, theacropolismuseum.gr (Metro: Acropolis) © ROBERT A. MCCABE

The riches of the land, including pomegranates, grain, grapes and olives, have served as a source of inspiration for artists ever since ancient times.

The Numismatic Museum presents 337 ancient Greek, Roman and later coins, seal stones and lead and clay symbols depicting Greek fruit and foliage, juxtaposed with pieces of contemporary jewelry by 19 Greek and foreign designers.

• “Fruits and Symbols,” Numismatic Museum, 12 Panepistimiou, nummus. gr (Metro: Panepistimio, Syntagma)

31122019 HISTORIC PHOTOS

©MARIA HANIOU

Robert McCabe first traveled to Greece from his native America in 1954, “in search of places that hadn’t yet been discovered by tourists.” Armed with a Rolleiflex camera, he captured wonderful images of everyday life in villages and towns, as well as shots of archae-

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ological sites and rural landscapes. In order to mark the 180th anniversary of the establishment of the Archaeological Society of Athens, the photographer has selected 53 shots from that first visit.

• “Chronography,” Archaeological Society of Athens, 22 Panepistimiou, archetai.gr (Metro: Panepistimio)

A R R I VA L S

THE TALK OF THE TOWN The most interesting new additions to the city’s ever-changing landscape of food, drink and shopping options.

BY N E NA DI M I T R IOU, A L E X K I NG A N D V L A SI S KO STOU RO S

TANINI AGAPI MOU Look for it right behind the bus stop. The owner of Tanini Agapi Mou (which translates as “Tannin, My Love”) has a penchant for creating food and drink businesses with unusual names, such as “Alice chose the wrong boy to be with” or “When Myrsini fell in love with the oven.” Here, tables on the sidewalk cater to a clientele that has adored his new venture since the day it opened. A decidedly original wine bar, Tanini Agapi Mou serves Greek PDO, PGI and local natural wines and boasts 120 different selections stored in a purpose-built wine room. Before serving, whites undergo a cool “bath” for extra chilling.

Tasty accompaniments include mutton prosciutto, graviera cheese from Messinia and a sharp, olive-oil cured ladotyri cheese from Lesvos.

© ANGELOS GIOTOPOULOS

INFO: 91 Ippokratous, Exarchia, Tel. (+30) 211.115.0145

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B FOR BURGER

© YIORGIS YEROLYMBOS (WWW.YEROLYMBOS.COM)

B for Burger is a classic grab-and-go burger joint primed for delivery and takeout, with just two small tables on the street as well as an outside counter, a prime spot from which to watch the juicy burgers being grilled.

Serving until 02:00 and situated next door to that staple of Pangrati nightlife, Chelsea Hotel, it’s already a popular option for a late-night snack.

Cheeky burger names like Kevin Bacon, a bacon cheeseburger, and the Greek Lover, with graviera cheese, spinach and caramelized onion, bring a smile to the face. But there’s a very serious focus on flavor and freshness. Chef Alberto Symillidis devised the menu and sources the finest ingredients, from Cretan salt to Cypriot potatoes and meat from the local butcher’s Papoúlias, which supplies many of the area’s most prestigious restaurants. If there are better burgers to be had in Athens, we’ve yet to find them. INFO: 1 Archimidous, Tel. (+30) 215.510.6789

ZEUS+DIONE FLAGSHIP STORE

Ancient beauty and a lighthearted mood define Zeus+Dione’s collections; they also permeate the brand’s new downtown Athens home, too. The internationally acclaimed fashion house’s first store of their own makes you feel as if you’re inside the modern version of an ancient temple, with curved walls, generous lighting, an elegant marble-tiled floor and transparent surfaces that seem to float in mid-air. This architectural gem by the firm “en-route-architecture” is composed of stone, glass and wooden details and draws inspiration from icons such as the Parthenon, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, thw Winged Victury of Samothrace and Yannoulis Chalepas’ Sleeping Maiden sculpture. This bold and ambitious new store, a welcome addition to the Athens shopping experience, is at the forefront of the city’s efforts to become a modern fashion destination.

INFO: 6 Voukourestiou, Athens, Tel. (+30) 210.323.0132, zeusndione.com AT H E N S S U M M E R 2 019

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© ANGELOS GIOTOPOULOS

A R R I VA L S

FITA

If it wasn’t for FITA, it’s unlikely you’d ever come to Neos Kosmos, no matter how long you spent in Athens. This low-income neighborhood with its old public housing apartment blocks seems an unlikely location for this neo-bistro, but this place has really taken off since its recent opening. The food is

simple, yet the combinations are unexpected: okra with fresh tomato sauce is served with deep-fried parrotfish, while fresh sashimi is served with wild chard and mustard in a Greek take on wasabi and seaweed. If you get here before lunchtime, you’ll see the chefs coming back from the farmers’ market with ingredients for the ever-changing daily menu.

INFO

1 Ntourm and Kasomouli, Neos Kosmos, Tel. (+30) 211.414.8624

KOPRIA Monstera deliciosa, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Sedum morganianum: these are not sorcerer’s incantations but rather the scientific names of plants you’ll find in homes around Athens. Kopria is a florist’s and nursery that carries mainly indoor plants which it supplies to the neighborhood of Exarchia and beyond. The store has brought a small but perhaps significant change into people’s lives by helping them add low-maintenance plants to their living rooms or bedrooms. Even if you’re a complete novice, Kopria’s owners, Ifigenia and Vassilis, will be happy to advise you on how to take care of your new “house pet.” If you’re not keen on stuffing a new plant purchase into your suitcase, fear not: there are also beautiful ceramics, publications (both Greek and international) and elegant tote bags – all of which lead a life of happy coexistence on shelves with climbing plants. Kopria (the Greek word for “manure”) also operates as an art gallery and regularly organizes social gatherings and events that stimulate dialogue regarding art and the urban environment.

INFO 30 Eressou, Tel. (+30) 211.113.2535

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A R R I VA L S

BARRO NEGRO

FABER

An offspring of the famous Stemnitsa Silver-Gold Smithery School in the Peloponnese, this tasteful new workshop and outlet for jewelry in the heart of Athens was created

by Professor Dinos Sarakiniotis and graduates Spiros Tzimas, Konstantina Katsibiri and Jose Perez-Mavrogenis. The team employs an array of different techniques to create handmade silver and gold jewelry, using unworked semi-precious stones and minerals such as aquamarine, lava rock or fool’s gold.

Their first collection, a varied assortment, is the result of their collaborative effort and the creative chemistry that exists among them, even though each piece carries the individual signature of its designer. The work benches, the lighting and everything else in the store are also their own creations. No matter when you visit, you’ll always find one or more members of the group bent over their benches working on something. Prices are more than reasonable, and the quality and aesthetic standards are very high.

INFO: 11 Praxitelous, Tel. (+30) 210.322.6931

TO LOKALI

Mexico’s agave cactus is the source of inspiration for this lively drinking hole, a joint venture of three Greek mixologists and tequila experts.

Agave is, of course, the root ingredient for both tequila and mezcal spirits, as well as for agave syrup, which finds its way into many fine cocktails. The team aims to draw from the agave’s range of flavors to provide a stimulating drinking experience, with imaginative cocktails and rare spirits.

The bar’s design was inspired by afternoon strolls around Guadalajara – a city in the heart of tequila country – although Barro Negro feels right at home as a new addition to the Athens bar scene, too.

INFO: 15 loannou

Paparrigopoulou, Tel. (+30) 210.010.7618

© TATIANA MEGEVAND

Athenians might recognize this space as the former Cine Psyrri. In its new incarnation, To Lokali is an all-day hangout spot. Its founders explain that the concept was to create a “local” home away from home. They begin their attempts to lure you in at 10:00, with Greek brunch with eggs, pancakes and sandwiches, then give you reasons to stay right through till closing time at 03:00 (03:30 at weekends) with coffee, beers, cocktails and high-quality taverna-style food. Throughout the menu there is a focus on local and seasonal ingredients, as well as classics with imaginative Greek touches, such as an Old Fashioned made with tsipouro, geranium and strawberry. The charming visual identity and interior murals were created by Greek illustrator The Rabbit Knows, while the industrial design of the interior makes a pleasant contrast with the building’s old stone walls, although we’re sure you’ll find yourself most at home in the lush courtyard outside. INFO: 44 Sarri, Tel. (+30) 210.325.0673

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ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS

As soon as you enter, it’s obvious that Hestia, the ancient goddess of hearth and home, is the inspiration for the welcoming and homey space that is Ancient Greek Sandals brand new store on Kolokotroni Street. Housed in a wonderful early-20th century building with blue swimming pool floor tiles evoking a high-end 1960s resort, the store embraces a “summer in the Mediterranean” concept that’s further enriched by the stunning view of the Old Parliament from the top floor. You’ll also find a wide range of Greek lifestyle products, including pottery, olive oil, soap, candles and books.

INFO: 1 Kolokotroni & Stadiou, Tel. (+30) 210.325.5485, ancient-

© ALEXANDROS ANTONIADIS

greek-sandals.com

LOCAL GREEN This smart new eatery aims to raise the bar for healthy, delicious and sustainable food in the city center.

The interior is a beautifully designed mix of wood, marble and hanging plants – and the food is just as photogenic. Highlights include the Saigon Bowl, rice noodles with chicken and vegetables; quinoa blue cheese salad with Aegean pistachios and Kimi figs; and healthy beverages, such as iced kombucha tea and home-made sugar-free lemonade. Local Green has a wide range of vegan and gluten-free options and will soon offer deliveries by bicycle and electric scooter, to ensure that the whole operation is as low-carbon as possible. Check out their Instagram account – it’s one of the cheekiest, most amusing ones around! INFO: 30-32 Perikleous, Tel. (+30) 210.321.4500

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ALEX Athens didn’t have its own pasta bar, so Alex Vasilatou, a very young, yet expertly trained and enthusiastic cook, set out to create one with her father, Nicholas. The result, Alex, is a tiny, modern and atmospheric restaurant dedicated to pasta. Handmade pappardelle, tagliatelle, rigatoni, conchiglioni and spaghetti are served with flavorsome classic sauces or more locally inspired options, such as pesto with feta cheese from Kefalonia or lemon chicken sauce with soured soft cheese (xinomyzithra) from Hania, Crete. The handmade ceramic plates made by Alex’s friend Ariadne Strofylla are a reason to eat in, but you can also order your food to go and enjoy it in charming Dexameni Square.

INFO: 3 Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki, Tel. (+30) 210.364.4142

DEVELOPMENT

LYCABETTUS: PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE Central Athens’ highest point is undergoing a makeover to improve facilities for visitors.

B Y PAG O N A L A P S AT I

One of Athens’ most instantly recognizable landmarks is being given a makeover, thanks to redevelopment works that will upgrade and protect both its natural and historic features. The work will make the hill more attractive and easier for the public to access, and it will also provide greater protection from adverse weather conditions.

• Lycabettus Hill constitutes a significant natural feature of the landscape of Athens.

In ancient times, the wide and open view from the hill’s barren peak helped protect the city from surprise assaults.

During the 19th century, it was affected by the same urban transformations that began to reshape the capital’s character and appearance.

• Starting in 1885, a series of successive tree plantings took place in order to safeguard the site from urban development.

The hill now features several different ecosystems and boasts a rich spectrum of biodiversity that includes a carob grove, a wood of eucalyptus trees, a thyme garden, a gravel patch with Euphorbia cacti, a gorge with prickly pears and pine groves. There are 21 official entry points to the park that covers the hill.

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• Much of neoclassical Athens was built using stone from the quarry on Lycabettus. It also features a mountain shelter, still in good operational order. At the foot of the hill, Dexameni Square is home to Hadrian’s Reservoir, which once provided the city with much of its water.

• The aim of the “Lycabettus Program: The Present and the Future of the Urban Forest of Athens” is to create high-quality public spaces that will provide pleasant and safe environments for leisure activities.

• The redevelopment is focused on environmental renewal and will address issues such as the excessive use of private vehicles, a steep rise in tourist numbers and the need for crucial infrastructure upgrades.

• The project has been collaborative in nature, with innovative methods of participatory planning that has drawn on the knowledge of many different experts, including agronomists, architects, environmentalists and others. In total, it received more than 1,450 individual submissions and more than 250 people took part in workshops and other activities related to the planning process.

• Major challenges the project has faced have included a lack of historical records, the wide range of specializations involved and the sheer number of individuals and public bodies which had to be identified and invited to take part.

• Many innovative practices were drawn from the Rockefeller Foundation’s 100 Resilient Cities Network, which supports selected cities to become more sustainable through formulating casespecific strategies. The project’s aim was to explore and enhance the ways in which Lycabettus Hill could contribute to the successful management of the diverse difficulties Athens is facing now and will face in the future.

• Planned redevelopment works will apply cutting-edge anti-flooding and anti-erosion measures (designed to high aesthetic standards), such as replacing tarmac surfaces with a new layer of waterpermeable materials that will make walking on them a more pleasant experience; restoring the 3km peripheral path (using non-disruptive methods and natural materials) so as connect the different sectors of the hill; and rebuilding the historic Prasini Tenta (“Green Awning”) lodge on the north-west side of the hill.

• Perhaps the greatest challenge will be to encourage a move away from private vehicles and towards greater use of public transportation which, it is hoped, will also benefit the soon-to-reopen Lycabettus Theater, and to coordinate this change with the redevelopment of accessible areas, so that the natural environment of the hill no longer suffers from unregulated public use.

INFO

We would like to thank Maria Kaltsa, director of the “Lycabettus Program,” for her generous help in creating this article.

WELCOME

T

he latest joke going around among Athenians is about this year’s unusual weather.

“Was there a clause in the last debt agreement that gave them permission to take the sun away, too?”

A cloudy summer sky is more than the Greek capital can take after all that it’s been through, and survived, in the last few years.

Looking back, you can’t miss the dramatic ups and downs of the rollercoaster ride Athens has been on in this new century: from a stopover city en route to the islands, without a metro system, it was transformed into a modern metropolis for the Olympic Games, only to become the wounded Athens of the recession, which then evolved into a dynamic destination marked by rapid tourism development.

The very same destination whose global public image a few short years ago revolved around shuttered shops and street protests is now nearing the decade’s end as a renewed city, full of optimism for the future, with unprecedented tourism numbers. The crowning glory of this reversal of fortune was the 5.8 million international visitors that the city welcomed last year.

What was it that travelers suddenly discovered that made them choose this city over Rome, Barcelona or one of the picturesque Greek islands? It certainly wasn’t the Parthenon, the souvlaki or the Evzones (Presidential Guard); they’ve always known about those. Their own stories about the place that won the title of Europe’s Leading City Break Destination 2018 combine a true mix of experienc-

A bird’s-eye view of the ever-changing Athens Trigono area, courtesy of the newly opened boutique hotel Blend.

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OGRESS

© GEORGE FAKAROS

Record tourist numbers show that Athens is definitely getting its mojo back.

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WELCOME

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01. Open-air movie night in the courtyard of the Byzantine and Christian Museum.

02. Set to open before the end of the year, the new Goulandris Art Museum will transform the already hip area of Pangrati.

es and include ancient tours as well as contemporary art, modern gastronomy, refined street food, stylish cafés, rooftop terraces with amazing views, and brandnew hotels. What’s more, unlike many European destinations battling overtourism, Athens is seeing growing numbers of independent visitors rather than hordes of tour groups, which changes how visitors experience the city.

If you want to see the true face of 2019 Athens, it’s not enough to take a stroll along the island-like alleyways of Plaka.

Old neighborhoods are evolving into

new hotspots, as in the case of Kypseli, with the recently redeveloped Municipal Market, or Pangrati, where the 11-story Goulandris Art Museum, housing an extensive collection of artworks by legends such as Gauguin, Degas, Picasso and Van Gogh, is due to open in the autumn. Parts of the center that were run-down have come into the spotlight thanks to interventions by the city’s creative forces. A characteristic example of such urban renewal is the Athens Trigono, a downtown area that was once exclusively a center of commercial activity; it has been largely renovated, pedestrianized and relaunched. Today, it’s full of drinking and dining establishments operating alongside older shops. Social innovations and ideas promoting solidarity are being brought to life in places such as Shedia Home, the new multi-functional venue of the Shedia street paper, which sup-

A CHARACTERISTIC EXAMPLE OF SUCH URBAN RENEWAL IS THE ATHENS TRIGONO, A DOWNTOWN AREA THAT WAS ONCE EXCLUSIVELY A CENTER OF COMMERCIAL ACTIVITY; IT HAS BEEN LARGELY RENOVATED, PEDESTRIANIZED AND RELAUNCHED. 42

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ports the homeless. Inspired initiatives for the integration of refugees are being put into action; the Caritas Discover Athens program, in which young Iranians, Afghans and Syrians act as alternative tour guides and reveal their own “Best of Athens” to other refugees in the city, is a prime example of such endeavors.

On the museum map, the big names are being joined by interesting themed museums, including the Benaki Toy Museum and the Museum of Ancient Greek Technology. Of course, this summer’s most popular ticket remains the one that grants you access to the internationally acclaimed Acropolis Museum, even among the locals, who are lining up to admire its brand new exhibition space, located underneath the museum, where visitors can tour the excavated ruins of an ancient Greek neighborhood.

The city is a wide-open field for investment. You sometimes feel as if you’re walking on a Monopoly board, with new state-of-the-art hotels popping up one after the other. At the same time, long-established fixtures in the hospitality sector are being renovated, making for even better accommodation experiences.

Modern micro hotels provide options for those seeking something better than what’s on offer on Airbnb, while old buildings in the center are being transformed into elegant boutique hotels. It’s not just about aesthetics anymore, it’s about in-

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spiration, too, and the concept that it serves. You can, for example, find a hotel dedicated to foodies, such as the Ergon House Athens, or choose to stay in an old 1930s printing house in Psyrri, which now houses the 12-apartment Foundry Hotel Athens. Its rooftop features a garden where, in the afternoons, you can order a picnic basket full of Greek products, beers and wines, and enjoy your meal with a view of the Acropolis. There are also more and more choices for those who insist on multi-star accommodation.

Two of the most notable are the historic Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens in Vouliagmeni, which reopened a few months ago after a radical renovation, and the Grand Hyatt Athens on Syngrou, the second Grand Hyatt to open in Europe after their branch in Berlin.

Such developments along Syngrou

Avenue, which connects the center to the Athens Riviera and the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, are sure to attract even more tourists southwards towards the sea over the next few years, softening the boundaries of the inner city; this will be further aided by the transformation already underway on the southern front of Attica. The regeneration of Faliro Bay and the construction of a new coastal road are underway, and projects such as the modernization of the Alimos Marina, and the massive urban renewal project at Elliniko, the city’s old airport, are being planned along the Athens Riviera.

Extensions to the metro system are also taking place, and when the new works reach Piraeus by 2021, Athens International Airport will be just a 45-minute ride from Greece’s largest port.

If you’re an Athenian, you probably

DEVELOPMENTS ALONG SYNGROU AVENUE ARE SURE TO ATTRACT EVEN MORE TOURISTS SOUTHWARDS TOWARDS THE SEA OVER THE NEXT FEW YEARS.

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© VANGELIS ZAVOS

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01. Ergon House Athens combines a colorful food market with a luxurious boutique hotel.

02. The renovated Municipal Market has breathed new life into the densely populated area of Kypseli.

love and hate Athens equally, and make no effort to hide it. You’ll rarely hear locals praise their city. They’re annoyed by the narrow sidewalks where parked cars create obstacle courses for pedestrians; by a lack of cleanliness; and by a lack of green spaces – all issues high on the agenda of Athens’ new mayor, Kostas Bakoyannis, who takes office on the first of September. His vision includes model neighborhoods, pocket parks and free Wi-Fi hotspots, as well as a project called the Great Walk of Athens, a pedestrianized stretch running from Dionysiou Areopagitou Street to the National Archaeological Museum. And even with its current flaws, Athens will find ways to surprise you. Some of the best memories that you’ll take away will be ones that it gives you for free, such as a sunset seen from the Areopagus Rock, or a haunting tune played by a street musician on his accordion on a lazy Sunday morning.

THIS IS SO NICE N EASY AND DAZZLING The mouthwatering, signature taste of the nice n easy restaurant reintroduces itself with a bit of zing and in full summer mode at the iconic Astir Beach, as nice n easy SEASIDE. Treat yourself to the beloved organic and healthy-gourmet philosophy of nice n easy, while enjoying Astir’s idyllic surroundings. A variety of wines and cocktails awaits those seeking an elegant night out till late hours. Don’t forget that the restaurant is also available to organize your own event to the highest standard, based on your personal needs and taste.

40, Apollonos Street, Vouliagmeni 166 71 Reservation number: +30 210 8901625 Opening Hours : Sunday – Wednesday, 09.00 – 23.00 (kitchen till 22.00) Thursday – Saturday, 08.00 – 24.00 (kitchen till 23.00)

HOTEL BOOM

Those contemplating a stay in Athens will have more choice than ever when it comes to accommodations, thanks to a spate of new hotel openings.

H O S P I TA L I T Y

I L LUST R AT ION BY A N NA T ZORT Z I

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H O S P I TA L I T Y

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This five-star design hotel boasts 366 rooms and suites and two restaurants: Made in Athens, specializing in Greek cuisine with premium local ingredients; and the pan-Asian E&O Athens, on the rooftop, offering great views of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center and the Aegean Sea. It first opened in the summer of 2018. 385 Syngrou, marriott.com

Another new arrival in the Acropolis Museum area, this four-star boutique hotel, open since May 2019, combines modern design with classic comfort in its 37 rooms. 21 Syngrou, nichehotelathens.gr

Currently undergoing a 20 million euro reconstruction, this landmark building near the Parliament first opened as a hotel in the late 1950s, later housed a bank and had been shuttered for years, until the Lampsa Hellenic Hotels group, owners of the iconic Grande Bretagne and King George hotels, decided to turn it into a five-star property. Probably the most eagerly anticipated opening in the city, scheduled for spring 2020.

Panepistimiou & Kriezotou

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GRAND HYATT ATHENS Just the second property in Europe to operate under the Grand Hyatt brand name, this five-star business and leisure hotel has 309 rooms and suites, a rooftop restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool. It opened in August 2018 after a million-euro renovation project.

115 Syngrou, hyatt.com

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ATHENS B4B 365 Open since August 2018, this brand-new, modestly priced four-star hotel is conveniently located across from the Onassis Cultural Center, a short distance from the Acropolis and the historic center. It features five different types of rooms, sleeping up to 4 people. Its rooftop bar has great city views.

1 Fragkoudi, b4bhotels.com

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ATHENS BC HOTEL Owned by the Greek Coco-Mat bed/mattress and furniture brand, and boasting its signature wood-and-natural fabric aesthetics, this five-star boutique hotel is just a stone’s throw away from the Acropolis Museum.

It takes its name from ancient ruins, including an early Roman mosaic, that came to light during its construction. Open since May 2019. 5 Falirou, cocomatathens.com

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ATHENS NICHE HOTEL

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GRECOTEL-AMIRANDES Four years in the making, this new, as yet unnamed, five-star boutique hotel will operate out of a refurbished, century-old listed building which for decades served as the flagship store of the Hitiroglou family of fabric merchants. It’s scheduled to open late this year. Mitropoleos, grecotel.com

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ERGON HOUSE HOTEL Conceived as a foodie boutique hotel, this five-star property (which opened in February 2019) in the center of Athens boasts a lively food court featuring a greengrocer’s, a butcher’s, a fishmonger’s, a bakery, a restaurant-bar celebrating the best in Greek gastronomy and a stylish modern inn, all packed into one. Also on offer is a gym in which to burn the inevitable extra calories. 23 Mitropoleos, house.ergonfoods.com

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ELIA ERMOU ATHENS HOTEL Right on Ermou Street, the main shopping street in Athens, this newly-built four-star hotel features 123 rooms and nine suites, many of which offer Acropolis views and luxurious amenities such as private jacuzzis. Facilities include a spa with a Cryosauna and a hair and nail salon. The Athens View Balcon all-day bar-restaurant delivers what its name suggests. 15-17 Ermou, eliaermouhotel.com.

KING’S PALACE

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BLEND HOTEL Its distinct retro style combined with a contemporary approach to luxury has made this 24room, four-star boutique hotel and its restaurant, Folk, extremely popular with Athenians and travelers alike. Located in the historic center of Athens, its building is a gem in its own right; built in the 19th century, it was the first chocolate parlor in the Greek capital and introduced Athenians to their first hot chocolate in 1852! 2 Vyssis, blendhotel.gr

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LEONARDO ROYAL ESPERIA PALACE HOTEL One of the most prominent hotel properties in the center of Athens is undergoing a 10-million euro makeover under Israeli group Fattal, and is set to reopen in 2020 as a five-star hotel, after almost a decade of being shut – a victim of the economic crisis. In its previous layout, it featured 176 rooms and suites over nine floors. 22 Stadiou & Edouardou Lo

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ATHENS TOWNHOUSE A listed neoclassical building on Kolokotroni Square, right across from the Old Parliament-National Historical Museum, is being transformed into a five-star, 45-room boutique hotel featuring an Elemis Spa and a movie theater. Set to open

before the end of 2019.

5 Kolokotroni

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ACADEMIA OF ATHENS, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION Another Marriott addition to the Athenian hospitality landscape, this newly opened luxurious city hotel is just around the corner from the upmarket shopping district of Kolonaki, and features 60 rooms, an indoor pool, the Plato Bar and Lounge and the Symposium Restaurant.

38 Academias, marriott.com

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MOXY HOTEL ATHENS Set to open in 2020 right on super-busy Omonia Square, this will be the first hotel in Athens to operate under Marriott International’s new millennial-focused boutique hotel concept, Moxy, combining stylish design and friendly service at affordable prices. 65 Stadiou

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KANINGOS 21 A former four-star hotel, this 77-room property has been taken over by operator Zeus International, which also manages the Wyndham hotels in Greece, and is set to reopen in 2020 following a three million euro renovation. 12 Halkokondyli & 21 Kaningos

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THE PINNACLE ATHENS Newly renovated but still retaining tasteful traces of its 1970s skeleton, the building that houses the brand new “aparthotel” The Pinnacle Athens is, by Athenian standards, almost a skyscraper. Decorated with an eclectic mix of floral tapestry, contemporary furniture and hundreds of pieces of art, this establishment features 16 apartments, all with floor-to-ceiling windows, fireplaces and walk-in showers with hydromassage jets.

The 9th-floor roof garden offers a panoramic view of the city. 75 Aiolou & Evripidou

© DIMITRIS TSOUMPLEKAS

TOURISM

SURVIVING SUCCESS

Athens has never been a more popular destination than today. But how can the city manage rising visitor numbers in a way that benefits both tourists and locals alike?

BY J E S SIC A BAT E M A N

T

here’s no doubt about it – Athens is booming right now. A selection of breathless articles in international publications have declared the city “the new Berlin,” heaping praise on its growing art and food scenes. And it’s attracting tourists like never before. The city welcomed 5.5 million overnight guests in 2018 – its biggest-ever number.

Tourism makes up almost a quarter of Greek GDP, so it would be easy to assume that locals are celebrating this rise. However, not everyone is happy. In areas such as Metaxourgeio and Kypseli, which are growing in popularity with international artists and travelers, you 50

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may spot anti-tourism graffiti. Residents complain about unfair rent increases and tell stories of families being forced to leave because landlords want to turn their apartments into Airbnbs. As other European cities such as Barcelona and Amsterdam protest about an overload of visitors on their streets, could Athens be about to run into similar problems?

“I think Athens is still very welcoming as a city,” says Theofilos Kyratsoulis, general manager of tourism marketing agency Mindhaus, who has been very vocal about the need for more investment in tourism. “From both a professional perspective and as a resident, I don’t really see there is an issue – especially

in comparison with other destinations.”

However, he admits that the increase in short-term rentals on platforms such as Airbnb may be affecting the rental market. “If you’re looking for an apartment, you can see the rents going up,” he says.

“It’s a challenge for destinations everywhere.”

Kyratsoulis explains that there has been a big push over the past few years to market Athens as a destination, in large part by the official This is Athens campaign; a coalition between the City

Detail of “Betonzen,” 2004, a collage by Dimitris Tsoumplekas.

© AMNA/YANNIS KOLESIDIS

TOURISM

Even during the low season, getting Areopagus Hill to yourself for a photo shoot is rare.

of Athens, the Greek Tourism Confederation, Athens International Airport, Aegean Airlines and various hotel owners and investors. “Athens is no longer a stopover on the way to the islands, it’s a city break destination in its own right,” he says. “We’re just getting close to what other countries have been doing for the past 20 years.”

But as the Athens hype continues to grow – just this summer, Harper’s Bazaar UK declared that it has one of Europe’s most exciting “rising art scenes” – Kyratsoulis believes it’s essential that this city takes measures to stop the tourist boom causing too many problems.”It’s great timing right now to take the steps to make sure becoming a destination doesn’t impact on residents’ quality of life,” he says, warning that infrastructure can become overloaded when visitor 52

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flows are not managed.

Much of the discussion about overtourism and Airbnb saturation in Athens has centered on the neighborhood of Koukaki. Its proximity to the Acropolis has seen it explode in popularity over the past few years, and in 2016 it was named

by Airbnb as one of its top 10 growth neighborhoods in the world. Data from 2017 suggested there were 343 listings on the rental site in the district – a huge number considering it is a relatively small area. Rents in the neighborhood are said to have more than doubled, and many long-term residents have been forced to move elsewhere.

“It’s good that tourists come here and want to see our culture,” says Andreas Maragos, owner of the bar O Babas just off the main strip in Koukaki. “I like how they want to learn about Greek microbreweries, Greek wine and Greek cuisine.

They’re always very kind. But we don’t have a neighborhood anymore.”

Andreas reflects on how, when he first opened in 2013, his clientele mostly con-

sisted of students. Now, they’ve been forced to move elsewhere, and he mainly deals with tourists. “We don’t have many people coming in here in winter,” he explains. “I’d like it to be around 50/50 tourists and locals, or even 60/40. Now it’s usually around 70/30.”

Around the corner at the bar Kolokitha, Kostas Theodorou is more relaxed about the situation. “We’re a tourist area, so why not?” he says. “Some parts of Athens have no visitors at all.” But even though his business is benefiting from an increase in customers, he admits he is seeing the downside on a personal level. “You can’t find anything to rent around here now – I’m looking myself at the moment,” he says. “It used to be around €300 a month for an apartment.

Now, if you can even find one, you’re going to have to pay €1,000.”

And it’s not just rental prices that have been impacted – the prevalence of Airbnb-listed properties in the area has affected how many businesses operate.

Sofia Alexaki, who runs a mini market on

© DIMITRIS TSOUMPLEKAS

© SHUTTERSTOCKT

TOURISM

A crowded street scene from Plaka.

Right: Locked key boxes awaiting the next guests of Airbnb-listed properties in Psyrri.

Veikou Street, was born in the area and says she has seen it change dramatically.

As she says, “The residents are no longer residents. I have stopped having steady customers. In some ways it’s better, and in some ways it’s worse. I’m on the verge of changing my products because tourists are asking me for things that Greeks don’t.”

She explains she’s currently trying to source mini bottles of shampoo and shower gel to sell, as she’s asked for these so frequently. “But it’s difficult when you don’t have steady customers and a steady income,” she adds. “I don’t know what will happen in the winter – I might bring in a lot of products and then find they don’t sell.”

She also reveals that she, too, has been forced out of the area due to rent increases – last summer she moved to Nea Smyrni. “I purchased this business because I lived in the area, and now I have to take the bus here,” she says. “I can’t stay open the number of hours I used to.” However, she is against the idea that some kind of control should be introduced for Airbnbs: “I don’t think 54

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that would be effective in any way – the owners have the right to do what they want with their apartments.”

Tonia Katerini from the United Initiative Against Auctions is one Athens resident working to raise awareness of the situation. Although her organization was originally set up to help Greeks facing eviction due to indebtedness, she says they’re now dealing with an increase in cases of people being forced from their homes due to Airbnb-related rent hikes.

“Over the past three years, we’ve seen many people forced to change the neighborhood they live in, especially in Exarchia and Koukaki,” she says. “Usually, it’s because the owners are asking for more money.”

Katerini and her colleagues have begun handing out pamphlets on the streets of Koukaki, campaigning against the rise of short-term rentals. “It was very interesting speaking to people,” she says. “About 70 percent were very upset about the out-of-control tourism in the area. Twenty percent were in favor of Airbnb and said the money was essential for their lives.” She adds that these Airbnb property owners were keen to point out the difference between themselves – families that rent out one property – and large companies that manage multiple apartments.

Although Airbnb was launched as part of the so-called “sharing economy,” un-

der the premise that homeowners would rent out a single room in their house or apartment, or the whole property while they were away, it has grown into something far bigger than that. According to 2017 data, commercial operators that control multiple properties are responsible for 43.8 percent of Athens’ Airbnb listings. The biggest of them all, Mint, has more than 150.

One Athens resident who has made a full-time career from Airbnb is Rowan Wood, who is originally from Los Angeles but moved here in 2013. His company, Athena Vaca, has 11 apartments it leases itself and five that it manages for other owners. Wood is quick to defend his trade. “I think the owner has the right to do whatever they want with their property and that should be the end of the story,” he says. “We don’t have this conversation when someone wants to buy a car, for example.”

He also does not hold much sympathy for those concerned about the fabric of their neighborhoods changing. “I think it’s the natural evolution of a city,” he explains. “I think it’s very conservative to want to maintain a neighborhood exactly the way it was in the past. I don’t see bohemian people who are against wealthier people moving into their area as any different to those in the southern states of the US who don’t want black people or gay couples living on their street. You

Central Hotel 21 Apollonos Str., Syntagma Tel.: 210 3234350 www.centralhotel.gr

© AP PHOTO/PETROS GIANNAKOURIS

TOURISM

Tour companies are burgeoning, yet not everyone in Athens is happy about the tourism boom.

can’t stop the movement of people and you can’t stop change happening. It’s like disrupting the flow of a river.”

Wood adds that most of his clients are “ordinary homeowners” rather than members of the super-rich, and uses the “trickle-down” economic theory to justify their right to make money from their properties: “If they’re making more money then they’re going to be spending more money and giving more money to their children,” he says. He also points out that the large number of empty properties in the center of Athens may be contributing to rent increases: “You can’t just blame Airbnb owners; it’s more complicated than that.”

Stratos Paradias, president of the property owners’ association POMIDA, says rental increases in central Athens are not due to just Airbnb. “Rents went down in the crisis and now some kind of recovery is taking place,” he says. He also adds that no new apartments have been constructed in the past decade – leading to a shortage of supply – and that he believes most buildings converted into 56

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Airbnbs are ones that were previously empty.

Most people that Greece Is spoke to for this story were in favor of some kind of control being introduced, while still recognizing that tourism is an essential component of the Greek economy. “I think we should try to monitor the districts and make sure their character does n’t change,” says Kyratsoulis. He also believes that different neighborhoods and aspects of Athens should be promoted, in order to spread visitors out and avoid congestion. “I’d like to see our infrastructure improved, too; both for tourists and residents,” he adds.

Katerini says she’d rather see shortterm rentals being listed on more ethically focused platforms, such as Fairbnb. coop, which promises to give back 50 percent of its profits to community pro-

jects, including social housing. “I think there has to be a control on the overcrowded Airbnb areas – there has to be a limit,” she says. “We should also have a simple license for people who want to rent out Airbnbs. They should declare it to the municipality.”

However, Wood believes that the number of Airbnbs in the city may be about to drop anyway – and not because of any new laws. “The market’s become incredibly crowded,” he says. “I’ve seen prices drop drastically. I believe a lot of people are starting to have trouble renting their Airbnbs if they are outside the ‘golden circle’ around the Acropolis, and they’re definitely not going to make the money that they fantasize about. I get 10 to 20 calls a day from people and I have to tell them their properties just don’t have Airbnb viability.” Paradias adds that the new tax laws will make Airbnbs less profitable.

Given the extra costs and work involved with running an Airbnb, might owners simply give up on the idea and go back to renting to long-term tenants?

Wood says: “I think a lot of people are going to leave the market in the next year.”

Globally, tourism is on the rise; there were 1.4 billion international travelers last year, a new record. Greece in general and Athens in particular have been major beneficiaries, with visitor numbers rising annually. Both the new mayor of Athens and the government have identified tourism as a priority economic sector.

However, it remains to be seen whether Athens can avoid the problems and the discontent witnessed in other European capitals.

“IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR AN APARTMENT, YOU CAN SEE THE RENTS GOING UP,” KYRATSOULIS SAYS. “IT’S A CHALLENGE FOR DESTINATIONS EVERYWHERE.”

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General view of the interior of the Parthenon, looking west. In the center stands the articulated crane, while on the right, work progresses on the north cella wall.

MONUMENT

HOW TO RESTORE Meet the woman entrusted with conserving one of the ancient world’s greatest wonders.

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MINISTRY OF CULTURE & SPORTS, EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF THE CITY OF ATHENS

THE PARTHENON

BY IOTA SY K K A / P HOTOS N I KOS P I L OS

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e’re standing on the Acropolis, having just left the Propylaia behind us. Immediately, our gaze is drawn to the greatest achievement of ancient Greek architecture – the Parthenon. Everyone pauses, admiring the temple’s proportions, its harmony of lines, unsurpassed for two and a half thousand years. Most visitors capture this moment with a photograph; I pause to recall the words of Panos Valavanis, archaeology professor, who told me years ago that this monumental building is filled with symbolism evoking power, struggle and victory. Through it, he noted, passed the state ideology of ancient Athens.

Construction of the Parthenon took place between 447 BC and 438 BC, using marble from the quarries of Mt Penteli.

It comprises 16,500 marble members of different sizes. About 600 skilled laborers and 150 marble workers were involved in the original transport of this material to the Acropolis. Among them was probably Socrates. As a young man, he had worked as a stonemason, like his father, before abandoning this occupation “for the sake of education,” as Lucian wrote.

Today, the area is again a construction site, and again it is full of workers.

Inside the monument, dwarfed by the temple’s imposing columns, they look like colorful specks from afar. Among them,

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a small, lively female figure can be made out. A closer look reveals her to be architect Vasiliki Eleftheriou, director of the Acropolis Restoration Service (YSMA), the special department within the Ministry of Culture and Sports, established in 1999 for the purpose of organizing and implementing the conservation and restoration works to be carried out on the Acropolis.

Since 1975, the Committee for the Conservation of the Acropolis Monuments (ESMA), a multidisciplinary committee of academics and governmental officials, has been responsible for the scientific work on the archaeological site.

As with everyone on the team, the excitement and passion she has for the work she’s doing shows on her face, despite the glare of the fierce sun. Now that the restorations of the Erechtheion, Propylaia and Temple of Athena Nike have been completed, YSMA has focused in recent years on the Parthenon and Acropolis walls projects. Eleftheriou notes that the outline, which is still being followed today, for interventions on the Parthenon was first established in 1983 by architect Manolis Korres, current ESMA president.

In the coolness of her Plaka office, on quiet Polygnotou, near the Ancient Agora, we begin our conversation by referring to the “very important” meeting of the Central Archaeological Council (KAS) in early May. After a lengthy discussion, new proposals for the reconstruction of the north wall of the Parthenon’s cella were approved. This, Eleftheriou says, was a historic moment. A cella is the main interior room of an ancient Greek temple, in which the cult statue of the god or goddess was sheltered. In the Parthenon, the cella held the chryselephantine statue of Athena Parthenos, a work by Pheidias.

The goddess’ clothes were crafted from gold, while the exposed parts of her body were ivory. Today, the cella walls represent an amazing restoration challenge.

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MINISTRY OF CULTURE & SPORTS, EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF THE CITY OF ATHENS

Far left and below: working on the Parthenon cella’s north wall. Tentative placement of an orthostate block, created from new marble, weighing 4 tons. Upper right: After placement, the addition’s upper surface receives treatment so that the next block or blocks will sit correctly on top of it.

The shaping of column flutes on new-marble additions is carried out in painstaking detail, following the ancient columns’ original pattern.

be reinstalled, along with 90 completely new marble members. “It was indeed a significant meeting, as decisions reached there will affect how the Parthenon appears in the future,” she tells us.

UNDER ATTACK Why is it that the Parthenon needs to be rebuilt in the first place? It all began in 1687, with the bombardment by Francesco Morosini’s forces, when large parts of the Parthenon’s cella walls collapsed. They remained in that state until 1822, when the Greeks, in the struggle for their independence, besieged Turkish troops on the Acropolis. The Turkish soldiers, running out of bullets, discovered that there was lead between the marble blocks, and so they knocked down the rest of the cella walls. The lead they found, explains Eleftheriou, had been used by the ancient architects “to protect iron clamps from corrosion. All the marble blocks that were removed then remained in the immediate area. Quite a few were used by archaeologist Kyriakos Pittakis and architect Nikolaos Balanos in the 19th and 20th centuries, when the cella’s north and south walls were partly restored, but incorrectly. In 1992-1993, the parts that had been erroneously restored were dismantled and the material studied, so now we know the true positions that about 190 marble members originally had within the north wall. In addition, 170 other members are known to belong to the north wall, although we’re not sure at what height they were originally laid.”

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Concurrent to the works on the cella’s north wall, the YSMA’s final implementation study for the south wall is already in progress. The restoration of these two walls will help to put back into place most of the ancient marble blocks now scattered about the archaeological site. In addition, the outline of the cella will be defined. The walls will provide a background to the columns; visitors will have a more complete picture of the temple.

“Certainly, this has been a time-consuming project,” says the YSMA director.

She recalls the long struggle of the late architect Charalambos Bouras, former ESMA president, for the advancement of this program concerning the long walls of the Parthenon’s cella.

This extensive project will take another 15 years but, “because the work will be done inside the Parthenon,” says Eleftheriou, “no scaffolding will be visible on the sides of the monument.”

Those dealing with the restoration of the Acropolis monuments always point to the fact that most of the catastrophic damage visible today is due to human intervention: bombardments, fires, military

takeovers and sub-standard restorations.

But how protected is the Acropolis from the anger of Enceladus, the leader of the Giants who shakes the earth, according to ancient Greek mythology? Or, put another way, how much of a threat is seismic activity?

Since 2009, in collaboration with Mie University in Japan, a program has been in effect to study the earthquake behavior of the Acropolis monuments. YSMA’s director when this program started was civil engineer Mary Ioannidou, who oversaw the placement of accelerometers on the Parthenon, in conjunction with the National Technical University of Athens, to monitor seismic vibrations and the subsequent reactions of the ancient monuments. Japanese scholars, including Prof.

Toshikazu Hanazato, believe that traditional wooden pagodas have structural characteristics that match those of the Parthenon’s marble columns.

Ten more accelerometers have been installed on the Acropolis, at the hill’s foot and at its summit, in collaboration with the Institute of Geodynamics of the Greek National Observatory, where a database is being systematically accumulated. There is a great deal of interest in the anti-earthquake secrets of the Acropolis.

The atmospheric pollution in Athens that kept scientists so busy in the 1970s is no longer a major worry. “Pollution levels here have decreased with changes in automobile technology, the construction of the metro, and other factors,” Eleftheriou says. “Today, we’re more concerned with climate change issues and the current phenomenon of unpredictable weather. This is a concern for YSMA and the Athenian Ephorate of Antiquities. It requires a centralized strategy for all the monuments.”

THE CELLA WALLS WILL PROVIDE A BACKGROUND TO THE COLUMNS; VISITORS WILL HAVE A MORE COMPLETE PICTURE OF THE TEMPLE.

MINISTRY OF CULTURE & SPORTS, EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF THE CITY OF ATHENS

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Highly experienced marble masons work on site as they carve the flutes of new drums set in the pronaos columns, using both modern and traditional tools.

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The Acropolis has no problem with floods, says Eleftheriou, “but we do have to deal with rainwater. At some locations, the water tends to pool or run unchecked, so it erodes the ground and we have problems with the ancient walls and the hill in general. Examining this issue is among the next studies we want to undertake.”

And what of the question most often asked: will the Acropolis ever be free of scaffolding and construction sites? “In 2015,” Eleftheriou says, “we had scaffolding on the Propylaia, on the Parthenon’s west side and covering the Temple of Athena Nike. Today, though, the only thing that mars our view are the works on the west side of the Parthenon.”

FROM LINDOS TO ATHENS Eleftheriou speaks at length, sometimes lapsing into difficult technical terms, but she’s generously patient as she explains her work, which also involves coordinating and overseeing engineers, architects, marble masons and workers.

She goes up to the Acropolis worksite once or twice a week; on other days, she works out of YSMA’s neoclassical headquarters nearby. She oversees the work of 114 specialist employees on loan from other departments of the Ministry of Culture, as well as 40 employees hired under the EU’s NSRF 2014-2020 program.

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age all this? “Perhaps it’s because I came into this young,” she replies. As an architect-engineer who graduated from the National Technical University of Athens with a master’s degree in the protection of monuments and the restoration and reconstruction of historic buildings and sites, she has been an employee of the Ministry of Culture since 1988. Until 2005, she was the director of restoration works for the Lindos Acropolis monuments on Rhodes. “There, I had a construction site with a ten-person crew; it wasn’t that different, really. By the time I left, I had 35 people.”

What was their reaction, I ask, when she showed up on the worksite in the blistering heat for the first time at the age of 27? “They were surprised,” she says, laughing, “but I never felt uncomfortable because there was a program and cooperation. I was sent to work on the Parthenon restoration project in 2005.

It wasn’t my goal to be the head of a service. I’d worked at YSMA for years and was next in line, in terms of seniority, when the previous head retired.”

It was an appreciation for geometry, mathematics and painting that led Eleftheriou to architecture. “I’m an organized person, but never seem to have enough time. I wasn’t an excellent student, but I was a good one, with discipline and perseverance.” Born in Sparta to parents from Evia, she studied in Athens and took

her first professional steps in Rhodes.

“Ancient monuments hold a charm for me; it’s the history they carry. In school, I leaned mostly toward Byzantium. I began dealing with Classical antiquities because of my duties at Lindos. They drew me in. Charalambos Bouras was an excellent teacher. He was also on the Lindos oversight committee.” She also has only good words to say about her mentors Manolis Korres, Kostas Zambas and Fani Mallouchou-Tufano, and about the heads of the Committee for the Restoration of Lindos Acropolis Monuments, Eos Zervoudaki, and Dodecanese Archaeological Service, Gregory Constantinopoulos.

Today, as YSMA director, she says that the daily throng of visitors to the Acropolis keeps her particularly busy: the site covers six hectares and receives about two million visitors annually. “We have some ideas about how we can deal with this better, but it’s difficult to maintain enough open space to allow so many people to come and go, especially when the summer cruise ship visitors arrive. We also must think about the monuments.”

What does she want her legacy to be? “Don’t expect any great pronouncements. I came into this position in late 2011, when the economic crisis in Greece had just started. Wages and benefits had been cut and things were difficult.” Yet, despite the hardships they faced, like the whole country, they soldiered on. “I look forward to helping our team carry on with the same appetite and passion.” Speaking of YSMA, Eleftheriou says “We’re not talking about a typical public organization here, although we are state-run. The state took care to set up a special service for the Acropolis monuments and to set high standards that we should strive to meet. Going forward, I’d like to remain faithful to the way we work as a team, and to continue the excellent work of our teachers.”

MINISTRY OF CULTURE & SPORTS, EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF THE CITY OF ATHENS

Vasiliki Eleftheriou on site.

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THE CITY BELOW E X C AVAT I O N

The Acropolis Museum is on the rise, as its newest gallery space takes you down into the streets of Early Byzantine Athens.

BY JOHN LEONA R D

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The private bath (“West Bath”) of an affluent Athenian’s city villa (2nd c.

AD); the remains of a round tower from a later date behind it.

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Visitors on the Museum’s forecourt deck stand above the remains of two successive Early Byzantine houses (6th/7th centuries AD).

T

he wonders of the Acropolis Museum just get better and better. Now, ten years after its inauguration, the museum has opened its last (or perhaps only its latest) permanent exhibit: the extensive archaeological excavation site that lies beneath the building, where a portion of an ancient Athenian neighborhood has been brought to light.

A GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY In the 1990s, as plans gained momentum for the establishment of a new Acropolis Museum – as well as for a new “Acropolis” metro station and the unification of central Athenian archaeological sites with the conversion of Areopagitou Street into a pedestrian thoroughfare – visible signs of change began to appear in the neighborhood south of the Acropolis. Houses, apartment buildings and small businesses, including an aged tra68

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ditional taverna with the intriguing name of “Socrates’ Prison,” began to be purchased and demolished to make space for what was coming. As the foundations and basements of these contemporary structures were cleared away, an unseen part of the ancient city of Athens began to emerge. The extraordinary opportunity to explore a large, previously hidden section of Athens’ past could not be lost, so archaeologists, officials and benefactors scrambled into action.

It is a tribute to these groups, and to the leaders of the new Acropolis Museum project, that, despite the inconvenience to architects and builders, the “Makrigianni site” was preserved and embraced, almost literally, by the fabulous new structure erected above it.

Archaeologists and engineers worked closely together to find exactly the right spots – in many cases new locations, different from those indicated in the original

plans – for the massive support columns that would carry the new building. Thanks to these collaborative efforts, we now have a glimpse into a long-inhabited district whose archaeological remains, covering 4,000 square meters, date from prehistoric times through the Byzantine era.

EXCAVATIONS BEGIN Today, as we stroll along the elevated walkways beneath the Acropolis Museum, the tidy presentation and hushed atmosphere of the excavation site belie the great tumult of activity that took place here, both in ancient times and during the more recent transformation of the site. Led by archaeologist Stamatia Eleftheratou, excavations began in 1997 and, with occasional breaks, continued until 2007. The project was conducted under the auspices of the 1st Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquities (EPKA)

© PANAGIOTIS TZAMAROS/INTIME NEWS

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A complex system of covered drains which once served the neighborhood’s private baths and latrines runs throughout the site.

and the Organization for the Construction of the New Acropolis Museum (OANMA), in collaboration with the museum’s visionary president, Prof. Dimitrios Pandermalis, the long-time director of excavations at Dion. The diverse Makrigianni team, Eleftheratou recalls, included archaeologists, engineers, conservators, craftsmen and other workers; it was a team of nearly two hundred people at its peak. In recent months, activity on the site once again increased, as the museum prepared to open the excavations to visitors on June 21st, 2019, the day after its ten-year anniversary celebration.

AN URBAN HONEYCOMB Traces of Neolithic inhabitation have been found on the Makrigianni site, revealing that people were already living in this area adjoining the Acropolis as early as the 4th millennium BC. From about 2000 BC, the area became a more sub-

stantial settlement, as well as a place of industrial activity and a burial ground.

As Athens grew, the Makrigianni site came to be a neighborhood of the Classical city, eventually developing into a densely built-up and inhabited district during Roman and Byzantine times. Archaeologists, as they peeled back the earth, exposed a honeycomb of walls, streets, alleys, houses, baths and workshops, some as far down as five meters or more below present ground level. The preserved height of some of these millennia-old remains is impressive.

The Makrigianni neighborhood, located some distance from the ancient city’s center at the Athenian Agora on the other side of the Acropolis, was initially developed as a systematically planned quarter following the Persians’ destructive invasion of Athens in 480 BC, then further expanded in the late 5th century BC. Here, residents had direct access to

the important public areas on the Acropolis’ southern slopes, including the Sanctuary and Theater of Dionysus, the Sanctuary of Asclepius, the Sanctuary of the Nymphe and the Odeon of Pericles. By Roman times, the district was also home to numerous wealthy Athenians living in large city houses, side-by-side with more humble, middle-class dwellings. The area was additionally enhanced by the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (AD 161). Within the Makrigianni site, at least two major crossroads – one possibly furnished with a public fountain – as well as other smaller streets indicate the neighborhood was well connected to the larger city network.

The area’s main streets were surfaced with packed earth and gravel, worn and rutted from the passage of pedestrians and wheeled traffic. Below ground, there ran a sophisticated arrangement of sewer pipes or channels to carry away water and waste from latrines, baths and workshops.

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WHAT WE SEE The ruins beneath the museum help us understand the amazing complexity of the archaeological remains and the lengthy period of habitation they represent. Excavators have been tasked with picking apart a maze of multiple building phases and periods of destruction which illuminate a series of invasions (1st c. BC; 3rd, 6th c. AD) and abandonments (7th, 10th, early 13th c. AD). Mostly what we see, Eleftheratou explains, is a large Late Roman/Early Christian residence with a private bath complex (Building Z; 5th6th c. AD). Also visible is a short-lived residential area equipped with a tower (Building E; 6th c. AD), and several workshops (7th c. AD).

COMFORTABLE LIVING, TURBULENT HISTORY An archaeological site presents its latest components on top. Beneath the

site now hosted closely-constructed, well-to-do homes.

It was in one such structure (West Bath) from this period that some of the greatest finds were made. Recovered from a well that supplied water to the bath was a cache of statues depicting gods and goddesses, including a young “Zeus Heliopolitanus” (late 1st c. AD).

This distinctive form of Zeus wears a garment decorated with personifications of the “planets” in the ancient Greeks’ geocentric cosmos: Cronus, Zeus, Hera, Helios (Sun), Selene (Moon), Ares and Hermes. Also in the well were statues of Asclepius, Hygeia, Aphrodite, Eros Cybele and Hermes. The Zeus statue, along with other, smaller depictions of Eastern deities found on the site, reveals the spiritual importance of Eastern mystery cults in Roman Athens.

The affluence of Late Roman/Early Christian Athens remained undimmed,

RECOVERED FROM A WELL THAT SUPPLIED WATER TO THE WEST BATH WAS A CACHE OF STATUES DEPICTING GODS AND GODDESSES, INCLUDING ONE OF “ZEUS HELIOPOLITANUS.”

Makrigianni site’s Byzantine ruins lie additional strata and disturbed remains indicative of earlier occupations. Houses of the Classical and Hellenistic eras (5th-1st c. BC) are poorly preserved, due not only to overbuilding, but also to destruction during the Roman general Sulla’s siege of Athens in 86 BC. Nevertheless, the affluence of the pre-Roman neighborhood was made clear by the discovery of three houses containing “androns,” men’s mosaic-paved banqueting rooms, each with spaces for seven dining couches.

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even after another invasion by the Herulians in AD 267. As the city recovered and underwent reorganization in the 4th and 5th centuries AD, Building Z, the upscale residence with its private bath, was erected in the eastern part of the site. In the 6th century, it was luxuriously renovated as the “villa urbana” (city villa) of some distinguished personage, featuring a semi-circular entranceway with a mosaic floor and staircase (visible through the transparent floor of the Museum’s exterior forecourt); an apsidal reception hall; and many mosaic-floored residential rooms further east.

However, with a continuing threat from the Slavs, who had raided Athens in AD 582, a new apparently more defensive structure was added in the early 7th

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Steel walkways allow visitors a close-up view, while the low ceilings add a sense of intimacy.

century. This fresh complex, Building E, featured wells, reservoirs and storerooms, where water and foodstuffs could be cached in troubled times; an upper-floor living area; a large apsidal reception hall; a small three-niched chamber that may have been a ceremonial dining room (triclinium) or chapel for private worship; and a circular tower-like structure.

THRIVING INDUSTRIES The final centuries of life at the Makrigianni site were marked by a shift in the district’s character. Following the abandonment of Buildings E and Z in the 7th century, the area became home to pottery and metalworking shops, evidenced by kilns, reservoirs, drains and other installations (8th-9th c.). After another period of abandonment in the 10th century, a new industrial quarter arose, with similar workshops, as well as residential spaces for the craftsmen (11th-12th c.). Final desertion of the Byzantine neighborhood came in the early 13th century. Some six centuries later, when Athens was occupied by the Ottoman Turks, an elegant military hospital, designed by the Bavarian engineer Wilhelm von Weiler, was erected on the north side of the Makrigianni site where it still stands, at present accommodating the administrative offices of the Acropolis Museum and EPKA. NEW LIGHT ON ANCIENT ATHENS Today, the remarkable resilience of ancient Athens is laid bare in the excavations of this long-inhabited archaeological site. Important new conclusions concerning late antiquity in Athens have been reached as well, with Eleftheratou speaking of an era “once considered a period of decline and residential recession, but here presenting newly constructed buildings that prove Athenian urban life remained vital in these times.”

New exhibitions of artifacts recovered from the excavations and reflecting the vitality of day-to-day life in the Makrigianni neighborhood through the centuries are being prepared, and are scheduled to open before the summer of 2020. © REUTERS/ALKIS KONSTANTINIDIS AT H E N S S U M M E R 2 019

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An appropriately stunning view of the Acropolis, as seen from the Acropolis Museum’s Parthenon Gallery.

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Get ready for serious sightseeing and some spectacular museums. This is Athens, home to awe-inspiring monuments and illuminating exhibits!

BY JOHN LEONA R D

© REUTERS/KOSTAS TSIRONIS

ORY TOUR

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hen you head to Athens, come prepared for adventure. Pack your curiosity, a healthy dose of stamina and comfortable footwear.

Many sights – large and small, major and minor, resoundingly awesome and quietly amusing – await you. Whether jostling among crowds at the Parthenon or exploring hidden corners of the ancient city, you’re following in the footsteps of countless travelers – ancient, medieval and modern – who also had the “history bug” and came to this venerable spot seeking the glory that was Classical Athens.

Long before Rome appeared, expanding its power beyond Italy’s shores to swallow up Greece and conquer a Mediterranean-wide empire, the Greeks had established a reputation as far-reaching sea traders, democracy-builders, philosophers, scientists and gifted artists. It is important today to look back on what they did and to savor the depth and breadth

of past human thought and achievement, as we can never fully appreciate the present, nor wisely plan for our future, without first understanding the past.

Whether it’s Periclean temples, sculpted maidens, colonnaded marketplaces, gilded icons, a marble-gated suburb, or the elegant façade of an Ottoman madrasa, Athens has much to offer. Near the Panathenaic Stadium, Socrates and a student once strolled beside the shady, winding Ilissos River, pausing to wet their feet and sit beneath a tree… Today, we might recapture some of that same refreshing serenity they experienced 2,400 years ago by ambling along the tree-canopied paths of the nearby National Garden. Athens is a city of ruins, mysterious traces and, above all, imagination, where we can enjoy discovering the essence of Hellenic culture, an ever-evolving phenomenon that has nonetheless remained constantly fascinating through the centuries.

Visitors flowing upward, ascending the Gallery of the Slopes of the Acropolis as they would experience a climb on the Sacred Rock itself.

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© SHUTTERSTOCK

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PLEASE NOTE: Summer hours apply from April 1st to October 31st.

TOWER OF THE WINDS

ACROPOLIS AREA The Sacred Rock… the place to start your Athenian experience. With its now splendidly restored Propylaea, and Temple of Athens Nike, and, of course, the Parthenon and Erechtheion, this spot is not to be missed. Around its slopes are the Theater of Dionysus, the Sanctuary of Asclepius, the Odeon (“Music Hall”) of Herodes Atticus and the cave shrines of Pan and other ancient gods. It is, without a doubt, the city’s crown jewel - and the view’s amazing from here!

Tel. (+30) 210.321.4172 Open daily 08:00-20:00 • Admission: €20 (a €30 combo ticket covers all main archaeological sites in Athens) •

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

THE ATHENIAN AGORA

The fresh face of the Acropolis: a dynamic, inspiring museum with fascinating exhibits, helpful family programs and services, excellent shops (with books and gifts) and a superb restaurant. Tour the building as you might scale the Acropolis, passing small shrines, mythical creatures, Archaic ladies, the original Caryatids and the majestic Parthenon sculptures in their crowning glass-walled gallery.

Explore the museum’s newly opened archaeological site as well.

As the city’s main square, marketplace and government headquarters, the Agora was ground zero in ancient Athenian life. Adult male citizens from all walks of life crossed paths here, as they strolled, conversed, shopped, served on juries, cast ostracism ballots, offered sacrifices, watched street performers and learned the news of the day. The Temple of Hephaestus stood in the traditional metalworkers’ district. Today, the Stoa of Attalos contains the Agora’s museum.

15 Dionysiou Areopagitou • Tel. (+30) 210.900.0900 • theacropolismuseum.gr • Open: Mon 08:00-16:00, Tue-Thu, Sat-Sun 08:00-20:00, Fri 08:00-22:00 • Admission: €10

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THE MUSEUM OF THE ANCIENT AGORA Located in the Stoa of Attalos, a 2nd-century BC “shopping mall” in the Athenian Agora. This museum offers a peek at the daily lives and funerary practices of ancient Athens’ diverse citizenry. Don’t miss the warrior’s tomb with its “killed” sword; the eyelets and hobnails from Simon the Shoemaker’s House; the juryselection machine; and the potsherd ballots nominating Themistocles and others for ostracism.

24 Adrianou Tel. (+30) 210.321.0185 • Open daily 08:00-20:00 • Admission: €8 •

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24 Adrianou • Tel. (+30) 210.321.0185 • Open daily 08:00-20:00 • Admission: €8

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AMONG THE SELECTIONS ARE OLD VINTAGES, fine wines, a large variety of champagnes and sparkling wines, and unique magnum bottles. Select spirits, dessert wines and premium whiskey, vodka, gin and rum brands complete the range on offer. All of this is complemented by marvelous Mediterranean cuisine with special Greek flavors, from a menu overseen by chef Antonis Pechlivanakis.

OPEN FROM NOON TILL LATE AT NIGHT, By the Glass is the perfect place to enjoy some wine, a business lunch or a romantic dinner. In addition to the establishment’s interior space and their charming arcade, there’s a “secret garden” next to the Russian Orthodox church in Rallou Manou Square that is open from spring to October as well, with live music performances once a week.

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BY THE GLASS Wine Bar Restaurant • 3 G. Souri & Filellinon • Syntagma, 105 57 Athens • Reservations: (+30) 210 3232 560 • Open Mon-Sat 12:00-02:00 Sun 17:00-02:00

© VANGELIS ZAVOS, MINISTRY OF CULTURE & SPORTS, EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF THE CITY OF ATHENS

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KERAMEIKOS

THE ROMAN AGORA As the Romans revitalized Athens, Julius Caesar and Octavian (Augustus) sponsored a new agora. Don’t be fooled by the “Classical” Doric gateway; this public complex dates to the 1st century BC. Once frequented by merchants, shoppers and semi-literate prostitutes who scratched advertisements on its columns, the market also features the Tower of the Winds, the ornate façade of a ruined Ottoman school, and the restored 17th-century Fethiye Mosque.

THE CITY OF HADRIAN (HADRIANOPOLIS) Hadrian, the greatest of Roman Hellenophiles, funded the creation of this new Athenian “suburb,” accessed from the old city through an arched, monumental gateway. Dominating the neighborhood was the enormous Temple of Olympian Zeus. The banks of the Ilissos River, covered with shrines, temples and lush vegetation, made this area a uniquely appealing district.

Entrance from Vasilissis Olgas Avenue • Tel. (+30) 210.922.6330 • Open daily 08:00-20:00 • Admission: €6 •

Pelopida, Plaka • Tel. (+30) 210.324.5220 • Open daily 08:00-20:00 • Admission: €6 •

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KERAMEIKOS Occupying ancient Athens’ northwestern quarter and watered by the Eridanos River, Kerameikos was a lush, clay-rich district that was a center for potters.

The adjacent Sacred Gate and Dipylon Gate stood here, from which roads led to the sanctuary of Artemis at Eleusis, Athens’ public and state burial grounds and Plato’s Academy. It’s likely, then, that the area’s regulars also included soldiers, prostitutes, philosophers, pilgrims, grieving families and professional mourners.

148 Ermou Tel. (+30) 210.346.3552 • Open daily: 8:00-20:00 • Admission: €8 • •

THE SOUTHWESTERN HILLS On Pnyx Hill, a natural amphitheater that once hosted gatherings of the People’s Assembly (Ekklesia), Athenian statesmen delivered fiery speeches from a rockcut rostrum while enjoying a panoramic view of the Acropolis and Athenian Agora. In Roman times, an exiled Syrian prince received a lavish burial on the adjoining Hill of the Muses, where his now-ruinous tomb, the Philopappos Monument, remains a prominent landmark.

A Future Perfect & Friends is a stylish concept store located in the heart of the city close to Syntagma square.

There you will find a little perfect something for everyone: women, men, kids, home and workspace.

Contemporary Greek designers’ clothes , jewelry, bags, homeware and memorabilia with a twist, all blend tastefully with a curated collection of international brands’ and eco-friendly products.

23 Praxitelous st, Syntagma, 10562 Tel: (+30) 6974304656 Website: www.afutureperfect.gr Email: info@afutureperfect.gr afutureperfectandfriends

© PANAGIOTIS TZAMAROS/INTIME NEWS

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THE NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

PLAKA

PANATHENAIC STADIUM

Hadrian also gave Roman Athens a new forum (agora), with a library and lecture halls. Two early Christian churches were later built in the central courtyard of Hadrian’s Library. East of the Acropolis, the Lysikrates Monument commemorates a producer’s victory in a musical contest at the Theater of Dionysus. Lord Byron once used the hollow base of this oversized “trophy stand” as his private study.

Built in the 4th century BC

by Lykourgos to serve Athens’ Panathenaic Games, the Panathenaic Stadium was veneered in gleaming white Pentelic marble by Herodes Atticus almost five centuries later. In 1896, after extensive restoration, it hosted the first modern Olympics. Today, it stands as an impressive monument to Greece’s contributions to world sport.

The Library of Hadrian • 3 Areos, Monastiraki • Tel. (+30) 210.324.9350 • Open daily 08:00-20:00 • Admission: €4

Vasileos Konstantinou (opposite the statue of the Discus Thrower by Konstantinos Dimitriadis) • Tel. (+30) 210.752.2984-6 • Open daily 08:00-19:00 • Admission: €5 (with a guide) •

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THE NUMISMATIC MUSEUM OF ATHENS

THE NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

This luxurious mansion was once the personal residence of the wealthy German businessman Heinrich Schliemann, father of Greek archaeology. Now Athens’ Numismatic Museum, its lavishly painted walls and ornate marble floors add further splendor to displays of gold, silver and bronze coins. Its unique exhibition highlights the artistry and significance of coinage through history.

An essential experience for anyone who appreciates ancient Greek art. Exquisitely sculpted masterpieces of bronze, marble and gold, including the golden “Mask of Agamemnon,” inlaid Mycenaean daggers, colorful Santorini wall paintings and a vast collection of painted vases displaying gods, heroes, favorite myths and fascinating glimpses into ancient life.

Truly a feast, never tiring, always inspiring.

12 Panepistimiou Tel. (+30) 210.363.2057 • Open daily 08:30-16:00 except Tue • Admission: €6

44 Patission Tel. (+30) 213.214.4800 • Open: Wed-Mon 08:00-20:00, Tue 12:30-20:00 • Admission: €10

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THE MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART

With one of Athens’ most visually striking collections, featuring Byzantine icons, richly woven clerical vestments, ecclesiastical artifacts and more recent works of Christian art, this museum tells the story of continued faith and cultural persistence and of Byzantium’s centuries-long imperial influence and far-reaching spiritual legacy.

One of the most pleasant, edifying museum experiences in Athens can be had here. The primary focus is prehistoric Cycladic culture, enriched with thematic exhibits illustrating the full range of ancient Greek art (2000 BC-AD 395) as it deals with gods and heroes, daily life, warfare and death. Ancient Cyprus is also represented, and kids will love the engaging interactive displays.

22 Vasilissis Sofias Tel. (+30) 213.213.9517 • Open: Wed-Mon 08:00-20:00, Tue 12:30-20:00 • Admission: €8 •

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BENAKI MUSEUM The main Benaki Museum in Kolonaki provides a fascinating overview of Greek history and civilization, through a broad collection of ancient, medieval, Greek Revolution-era and early modern artifacts and art.

Contemporary art and photography are showcased at 138 Pireos Street, while the Benaki’s Museum of Islamic Art in Kerameikos explores the richness of Middle Eastern art, jewelry, textiles, rare navigational devices and much more.

1 Koumpari & Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki • Tel. (+30) 210.367.1000 • Open: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat: 10:0018, Thu 10:00-24:00, Sun: 10:0016:00 • Admission: €9 •

138 PIREOS ST 138 Pireos & Andronikou • Tel. (+30) 210.345.3111 • Open: Thu, Sun 10:00-18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00 • Admission: €6-8 •

MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART • 22 Agion Asomaton & 12 Dipylou • Tel. (+30) 210.345.1311 • Open: Thu-Sun 10:00-18:00 • Admission: €9

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4 Neophytou Douka, Kolonaki Tel. (+30) 210.722.8321-3 • Open Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-17:00 • Admission: €7, €3.50 on Mon •

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© DIMITRIS TSOUMPLEKAS

THE BYZANTINE & CHRISTIAN MUSEUM

SCOOTERISE

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© SCOOTERISE.COM | ELECTRIC TRIKKE TOURS

EXPERIENCE

CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE

Thematic tours are an increasingly popular way to see Athens.

Just how would you like to explore the city?

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ALTERNATIVE ATHENS

ATHENS BY BIKE

S

egways are out, scooters are in.

In Syntagma Square, a group of tourists on electric Trikkes (a three-wheeled type of scooter) are circling their tour guide as he makes a futile attempt to inform them about the Presidential Guard (also known as the Evzones); showing off how skilled they have become on their lightweight vehicles seems more important than learning about the guards’ iconic uniforms. A few streets away, another group is exploring the passageways of the city’s forgotten stoas (covered arcades). Meanwhile, in Plaka, a family equipped with maps and booklets full of clues are on a treasure hunt inspired by Greek mythology.

“Alternative” thematic tours are all the rage now. A wealth of new companies 86

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have sprung up to offer a wide range of imaginative and original guided experiences in Athens. Regular tours just don’t generate the same buzz anymore. “Seeing the city as a series of images flashing by through a bus window is a way of traveling that irrevocably belongs to the past,” says Suzana Theodoridou, founder of the tour booking platform Grekaddict.

“It leaves few permanent impressions, unlike when you try flavors, create art, interact with the locals and play games.”

This new trend only began after a profound shock to the traditional guided tour industry. In 2010, spending cuts prompted by the economic crisis forced the public School of Tourist Guides to shut its doors. The following year, This is My Athens, a volunteering platform

STREET WORKOUT ATHENS

initiated by the Athens Development and Destination Management Agency (ADDMA), began offering “free walks” with Athenians. These unpaid locals weren’t trained guides or necessarily educated in archaeology or tourism. The purpose of the walks was to bring tourists and locals together, offering visitors a glimpse behind the scenes in a city which had traditionally steered tourists straight to the sights of the historical center.

“Visitors feel like we’re the missing link between seeing the city and living it,” says Alexis Galinos, Managing Director of ADDMA (and a member of the Steering Committee of This Is Athens & Partners, an allied public-private organization). “Locals walk tourists through their favorite neighborhoods and talk about what it’s like to live in Athens and how the city has changed over the years.”

That was the beginning. By 2013, several new companies offering thematic tours were up and running, and proving succesful. Food tours were especially popular. Tina Kyriakis, founder of the tour company Alternative Athens, was one of the first to offer them. Like many others, she’d been steered towards this creative new career by the economic crisis, but mass unemployment wasn’t, she says, the only factor behind the rise of thematic tours offered by locals: “There was a gap in the market and thematic tours filled it.”

Thodoris Nikolakopoulos, sales and marketing director at tour company Discover Greek Culture, agrees: “The existing tours offered a conventional

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EXPERIENCE

CLIO MUSE

SCOOTERISE “See more, sweat less” is the tag line of this company, which offers a range of tours around the city center and the coast.

Gliding around the streets of central Athens on an electric Trikke scooter is possibly the most comfortable way to see the city in summer.

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scooterise.com, Tel. (+30) 216.700.3277

DISCOVER GREEK CULTURE Everything a foodie could wish for is included on this tour, from traditional Greek breakfast with herbal tea to meze and souvlaki, and from wines made with native grape varieties to Greek coffee brewed in hot sand, followed by having your fortune told through a reading of the coffee grounds left in your cup.

• discovergreekculture.com, Tel. (+30) 697.012.0878

and very dull flow without the element of performance needed to captivate and entertain.” Today, there are tours tailored to music lovers, shopaholics and kids.

There are photography tours, vintage bike tours, street art tours, organized bar-crawls, audio tours and running tours.

Some are fully hands-on as well; you can go behind closed doors at museums to hold ancient artifacts, run in the Panathenaic Stadium, or make your own tzatziki.

Traditional tours of the ancient sites are often combined with another activity.

For example, you can follow your visit to the Acropolis with a photo safari, or discuss the state of the Parthenon during a wine tasting in Plaka. Some companies specialize in customizing tours for each group or visitor, taking into account their interests, ages and previous knowledge of the city. They describe themselves as experts in anticipating what you will enjoy before you even think to ask for it.

The growing market for new tours has also made room for initiatives such as street newspaper Shedia’s “Invisible Tours,” led by homeless Athenians, where visitors get to see a side of the city rarely noticed even by the locals – one centered around people, shelters and the cornerstones of the lives of the city’s homeless people. Guides gain a source of income while visitors leave with an unpolished view of the city and a greater awareness of the human toll 88

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inflicted by the financial crisis.

Despite the boom in alternative tours, some are concerned that many of the new guides are unlicensed. Kritos-Isidoros Piperas, president of the Association of Licensed Tourist Guides, cautions that guides showing people around historical Athens without a license could be under-qualified. “However, there are state-licensed guides giving all sorts of thematic tours, so there are good options,” he explains.

The Athens Guide School reopened in 2017 and the first class of newly licensed guides has just graduated. This will help ensure that guests have a variety of options and that standards are kept high.

The city’s best tour companies employ licensed guides for their historical tours.

For other tours, like photography tours and food tours, unlicensed but professional guides passionate about their topics, sometimes called “hosts,” or simply “locals,” might provide a better option.

Overall, satisfaction is high and Athens’ tour operators are applauded on ratings platforms like TripAdvisor. But, as always, read third-party reviews and the information from the tour provider carefully to find the experience that is right for you.

Talking to both guides and guests, they all seem to agree on one thing: thematic tours are here to stay. As Tina Kyriakis puts it, this isn’t a passing trend – it is, in fact, the new mainstream.

ALTERNATIVE ATHENS This mythology-themed, interactive walking tour of Athens’ most important archaeological sites is designed for families with kids. You’ll find out all about the history, myths and legends of the heroes and ancient gods. Children under six can join for free. • alternativeathens.com, Tel. (+30) 211.012.6544

STREET WORKOUT ATHENS This company offers outdoor exercise classes and running tours of Athens for travelers who hate to miss a workout. The special Olympic Games program will teach you how ancient Olympic athletes trained, and you will even compete in a race at the Panathenaic Stadium.

• streetworkoutathens.gr, Tel. (+30) 693.713.0974

CLIO MUSE Using a GPS map and a set of headphones, you’ll discover famous landmarks and local secrets as you hear intriguing stories about everything you’re seeing. Available through an app in your phone, this digital guide is always on call.

• cliomusetours.com, Tel. (+30) 694.379.6240

ATHENS BY BIKE Time is precious when you’re on vacation but you can see a lot, fast, on two wheels.

Athens by Bike’s tours last around three hours and you’ll pass a long list of the city’s most important sights. Choose between a morning, sunset or electric bike tour; all good options for the summer.

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athensbybike.gr, Tel. (+30) 216.900.3321

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Built in the hilltop overlooking the Vourkari bay, 12 years, Aigis Boutique Hotel has an innovative look at the relationship between the old and the new, the fusion of the Kean traditions and the high-end service of hospitality. The Aspiotis family welcome their guests with joy in a place with great aesthetics, inspired by their travels and cosmopolitan spirit. From your first moment in Aigis, you get the feeling that you are a guest in their house. You can relax in one of the nine, unique suites with a direct sea view of the Aegean Sea and create your own dreamy tale, enjoy the ultimate customized accommodation. Whatever type of traveller you are, escape back to nature on a romantic getaway, a family break or even plan your dreamy wedding in Kea Island, which will be forever in everyone’s hearts.

AIGIS SUNSET BAR RESTO

Even if you come to Kea Island for a dayvisit, you can definitely choose to visit Aigis Sunset Bar Resto either to have a kick-off start of your day with a healthy breakfast/ brunch which can include homemade jams, kean thyme honey, fresh fruits, vegetables and eggs, all picked up from the family farm at Episkopi, or enjoy the signature cocktails at the bar and taste the delicious Mediterrenean recipes over your dinner with a view of the Vourkari bay during the colorful sunsets.

Any of these choices will be an unforgettable experience.

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LOVE FOR THE ARTS

Love for the arts n’ crafts, the visual arts and the music is revealed even from the name and the logo of “AIGIS”,which in greek means “under our care”, inspired and designed by the great greek painter Alekos Fassianos. The music choices of Takis in the decks of Aigis Sunset Bar-Resto have left his fingerprint in the must-visit of the island, as well as the famous Aigis Live Sessions with the amazing violinist Vaggelis Tountas.

A fusion of the traditional sounds of the violin with ethnic elements of percussion instruments, create a cinematographic experience of the summer sunsets at Aigis that you do not want to miss out.

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PA N G R AT I

PEEKING BEHIND THE CURTAIN

Until recently overlooked by the majority of visitors, this residential district is experiencing a tourism boom, drawing in the hip and the foodie crowd.

BY A N T HON Y GR A N T / P HOTOS PE R I K L E S M E R A KOS

Modern apartment buildings about more classic Greek structures.

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Enjoying a break at easy-going Varnava Square.

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y Greek friends might howl with laughter, but Pangrati was once a total mystery to me. The neighborhood is just a 15-minute walk from Syntagma Square, yet not many foreign visitors ventured any further than its star attraction: the world’s only all-marble stadium, the Panathenaic Stadium. The horseshoe-shaped masterpiece, popularly known as the Kallimarmaro, sits on the perimeter of the historical center, its white marble mouth opening out towards the city.

Focused on that sight, few ever wonder about what lies in the other direction, behind the tiered marble seating, but the hills that flank the Kallimarmaro adjoin one of the most charming and authentic Athenian neighborhoods. Once you’re inside, Pangrati feels like you’ve stepped backstage at a small theater, into a hidden but homely world, known only to the locals who run the show out front. In fact, it took until the day I moved here to realize how much this neighborhood contributes to the urban fabric of Athens.

This is where real Athenians live, work, eat and play.

One of the most charming ways to make your way into the neighborhood is via the forested hills that float above the stadium and the resrt of the city. Walk along Agras, then Archimidous, and follow the winding path up through the pine and cypress trees to the top of Ardittou Hill, where a council of ancient Athenian judges once held court. Here you can see fragments of a shrine to Tyche, the ancients’ goddess of fortune, as well as 96

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01. Tourists on the right, local joggers on the left; the Kallimarmaro Stadium is for everyone.

02. Stairs and pastel-colored villas, two staple features of the neighborhood of Mets.

03. A pedestrianized section of Agras St parallels the edge of the Kallimarmaro Stadium.

04. Taking a coffee break at Proskopon Square.

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A view of Mt Lycabettus from above the Kallimarmaro Stadium on Ardittou Hill.

a ravishing view of the Acropolis, the modern city and all the way out to sea.

Pangrati doesn’t have a uniform style; it’s not all picture-postcard neoclassical buildings, like Plaka, for example. It has a much more diverse architectural mix, from princely old villas, to mid-20th century apartment blocks and even some new, cutting-edge additions, like the BlueBuilding, a boutique apartment complex on Effranoros, with whimsical design elements by Greek artist Alekos Fassianos. The retro neon glamour of Cinema Palas, which opened in 1925, hints at the neighborhood’s high-culture heritage (this small area once had 23 cinemas), which lives on in contemporary form at the idiosyncratic Life Sport Gallery.

Inquisitive wanderers are rewarded in Pangrati: peer through an illuminated window as you navigate the shadowy streets at dusk, perhaps on the trail of a 98

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new hipster café you’ve been tipped off about, and you’ll notice that the residential décor in these parts is often decidedly vintage.

There is a corner of Pangrati called Proskopon Square, which feels much more like Paris than Athens. Here, the atmosphere is far more Continental than Mediterranean; the square is brimming with sidewalk cafés and shaded by both tall trees and tall apartment buildings.

For the most part, Pangrati has managed to preserve many of its older treasures intact, alongside diverse new enterprises that have sprung up in recent years, bringing younger residents and visitors flooding in. In fact, the nibbling

and sipping options just keep multiplying, which isn’t a bad thing at all – until you’re forced to choose from so many viable contenders (see The Pick of the Place, p. 102-103).

On the opposite side of the neighborhood from Proskopon Square, there’s a bohemian smorgasbord of life around Varnava Square. In the streets that fan out like sunrays from the oval square, you’ll see the architecture is older and you’ll notice large, hulking apartment blocks making way for smaller, more elegant buildings in pastel shades.

For a change of pace, leave the buzz of Varnava Square behind you and head west towards Markou Mousourou, Niki-

THERE IS A CORNER OF PANGRATI CALLED PROSKOPON SQUARE, WHICH FEELS MUCH MORE LIKE PARIS THAN ATHENS. HERE, THE ATMOSPHERE IS FAR MORE CONTINENTAL THAN MEDITERRANEAN.

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forou Theotoki and the streets around the western edge of Ardittou Hill. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time to the Athens of a century ago or more.

Free-standing, eclectically styled villas define this mini neighborhood-within-a-neighborhood.

Keep heading west until you reach the First Cemetery of Athens, whose entrance is in the neighborhood of Mets, but whose residents sleep eternally in Pangrati. With its ornate mausoleums and tree-lined thoroughfares, this is Athens’ answer to Paris’ famous Père Lachaise.

Although much less visited than its Parisian cousin, it has a similar feeling of peace and seclusion, ringed by tall pines and cypress trees, which form a buffer against the noise of city traffic.

Outside of the somber walls of the cemetery, Pangrati is a young and live100

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ly neighborhood that rarely sleeps; the cafés and bars are packed all day long and into the night. It may not boast an assortment of big-ticket tourist landmarks, yet for those aching to fill up their social media feeds, take comfort in the knowledge that Pangrati is brimming with urban Instagram opportunities.

When the new Goulandris Art Museum finally opens in October this year on Eratosthenous, it will bring Monet, Picasso, Kandinsky and Van Gogh to the neighborhood – further boosting the artistic and cultural energy which the locals, new and old, have been reviving in recent years. Peeling back the curtain on Pangrati reveals an old-meets-new melting pot with lots of spirit. In fact, it turns out it’s not a backstage area or a sideshow after all. Athens’ best-kept secret is the main event.

01.Enjoying drinks at Monsieur Cannibale 02. Athens BlueBuilding, a new apartment building on Effranoros Street.

03. The neighborhood is no stranger to street art. The side of a school on Spirou Merkouri Street.

£á ôï âòåÝôå óôèî ëáòäÝá ôè÷ °õÜîá÷, ó'Ûîá íéëòÞ You will find it in the heart of Athens on a small pedesðåúÞäòïíï, Þðïù õá áðïìáàóåôå áùõåîôéëÜ ¹ôáìéëÜ trian street where Greeks enjoy original Italian cuisine. ëïùúÝîá. Æï Cupola åÝîáé íéá íïîôÛòîá trattoria óôèî Cupola is a modern Trattoria, situated in the cozy cozy ¦áçëòáôÝïù ëáé °õÜîá÷, óå áðÞóôáóè 10 £á ôïðåòéïøÜ âòåÝôåôïù óôèî ëáòäÝá ôè÷ ó'ÛîáíÞìé÷ íéëòÞ neighborhood of the Pagrati, from the Acropoìåðôñî áðÞ ôèî °ëòÞðïìè. Îøåé çÝîåéáùõåîôéëÜ óèíåÝï áîáæïòÀ÷ You will find it in heart10 ofminutes Athens on a small pedesðåúÞäòïíï, Þðïù õá áðïìáàóåôå ¹ôáìéëÜ lis.

A favourite spot of Athenian locals, who love it first ëùòÝö÷ çéá ôèî áùõåîôéëÜ pizza Napoletana ðïù trian street where Greeks enjoy original Italian cuisine. ëïùúÝîá. ÆïâòåÝôå Cupola óôèî åÝîáé íéá íïîôÛòîá trattoria óôèî ó'Ûîá íéëòÞ £á ôï ëáòäÝá ôè÷ °õÜîá÷, You will find it in the heart of Athens a small pedestrian street where GreeksNeapolitan enjoy original Italian & foremost for its original pizza æôéÀøîåôáé ëáìàôåòá ùìéëÀ ëáé on ãÜîåôáé Cupola is a modern Trattoria, situated in themade cozy with cozy ðåòéïøÜíåôïùôá¦áçëòáôÝïù ëáé óå áðÞóôáóè íÞìé÷ óå 10 You will find it in the heart cuisine.

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During summer, take a seat outside and enjoy the Greek summer nights! trian street whereingredients Greeks enjoy cuisine. Æï Cupola åÝîáé íéáøôéóôÞ íïîôÛòîá trattoria óôèî neighborhood of Pagrati, 10 minu ìåðôñî áðÞ ôèî °ëòÞðïìè. Îøåé çÝîåé óèíåÝï áîáæïòÀ÷ seat outside enjoy the chef beautiful Greek summer øáòáëôÜòá. Æï¹ôáìÞ÷ ëáìïëáÝòé ëáõÝóôå Ûêö, óôïî ðåúÞäòïíï Italian oven. and Well known Stefano Rossi daily ðáÝúåé ëáé ï chef Stefano Rossi ðïù åôïéíÀúåé Cupola is a modern Trattoria, situated in the cozy éïøÜ ôïùëáé ¦áçëòáôÝïù ëáéÞíïòæå÷ óå áðÞóôáóè íÞìé÷ âòáäéÛ÷!

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neighborhood of Pagrati, 10 minutes from the AcropoðÞ ôèî °ëòÞðïìè. Îøåé çÝîåé óèíåÝï áîáæïòÀ÷ foremost forwww.cupola.gr its original his very During summer, take aNeapo úùíáòéëÀ, ëòÛá÷íå& ôá ãÀòéëáìàôåòá íå ôïî äéëÞùìéëÀ ôïù ¹ôáìéëÞ æôéÀøîåôáé ëáé ãÜîåôáé óåown Italian&character. lis.

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Efforionos 13, Athens, Pagrati | T +30 211 411 7444 | | cupola_trattoria | www.cupola.gr oven. known chef ðáÝúåé ëáé æïàòîï. ï ¹ôáìÞ÷ªèíáîôéëÞ chef Stefano ðïù/cupolatrattoria åôïéíÀúåé finest ingredients Italian and baked in Well the traditional éáëÞ øôéóôÞ ¹ôáìéëÞ òÞìï Rossi the www.cupola.gr prepares a selection fresh pa ëáõèíåòéîÀ ¹ôáìéëÀ ðéÀôáItalian íå æòÛóëá oven. Well known chef Stefano Rossiofdaily áé ï ¹ôáìÞ÷ chef StefanoáùõåîôéëÀ Rossi ðïù åôïéíÀúåé

ILLUSTRATION: PHILLIPOS AVRAMIDES

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THE PICK OF THE PLACE

BY A N THON Y GR A N T

1 SPONDI For 20 years now, Spondi, with its two Michelin stars, has been the capital’s foremost fine dining institution where diners return time and time again to celebrate and to spend unfailingly memorable evenings. Every detail in the restaurant, from presentation to execution and from the flowers in the inner courtyard to the exceptional standard of the service, contributes to the dazzling gastronomical identity of the place.

5 Pirronos, Tel. (+30) 210.756.4021

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2 RABBIT PUNCH Cocktails made with coffee and decadent brunches oozing with goodness are the specialties at this popular new spot from the award-winning barista team behind The Underdog. • 40 Effranoros, Tel (+30) 210.756.7840

3 MONSIEUR CANNIBALE This retro circus-themed allday bar offers expert cocktails, a great music selection and stays open until 03:00. Food options are great, and brunch is especially popular.

• 2 Profitis Ilias Square, Tel (+30) 210.752.6130

4 KOKKOS Locals stop at Kokkos to pick up their specialty brew to go, usually accompanied by a cheese pie from Chez Alice next door, which is run by the same family.

• 25 Spirou Merkouri, Tel (+30) 210.723.6758

MAVRO PROVATO

FRATER & SOROR

OHH BOY

5 OHH BOY This immaculately presented spot welcomes sweet-toothed girls and boys with an impressive range of freshly baked tarts, cakes and other desserts. They also offer ample savory options and are vegetarian-friendly and petfriendly, too. • 32 Archelaou, Tel (+30) 211.183.8340

6 TRE SORELLE PIZZA This chic pizza joint is buzzing with people from the afternoon long into the night. It serves up pizzas with a crispy dough and also has a great range of salads and

TRE SORELLE PIZZA

aperitifs. • 19 Archelaou, Tel (+30) 211.407.2172

7 MARABOO Italian-style gelato made from Greek milk. Staples include summer fruit sorbets and salted caramel, but be sure to look for their experimental flavors, like rice pudding (rizogalo) or saffron. • 17 Archelaou, Tel (+30) 210.724.7037

8 MAVRO PROVATO One of the most widely respected modern Greek restaurants in Pangrati, this place is deservedly packed to the rafters for lunch and

dinner. Reserve or go early to avoid a long wait.

• 31 Arrianou, Tel (+30) 210.722.3466

9 FRATER & SOROR This industrial space on Proskopon Square is at the vanguard of Pangrati’s foodie awakening. Renowned for its mainly gin-based cocktails, it’s also one of the hottest brunch spots, with lines out the door on Sundays. • 6 Amynta,

10 CUPOLA Hot in the best sense of the word, it has warm, friendly service and great pizzas cooked in a wood-burning oven. Both the pizza and pasta are some of the best in Athens. • 13 Eforionos, Tel (+30) 211.411.7444

Tel. (+30) 210.721.3720

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Paparazzi’s “Musicians,” one of the city’s most popular murals, on Riga Palamidou Street in Psyrri.

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REIGN OF COLOR Street art shines in Athens.

Here is a look at some of the city’s new wonder walls.

BY A N THON Y GR A N T / PHOTOS DIM ITR IS TSOU MPL EK AS

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he first time I spotted INO he was not so much dangling in mid-air as somewhat impossibly clinging to a tall wall in the Trouba district of Piraeus. His laser-beam focus on the hard surface to which he was furiously but meticulously applying brush strokes was nothing short of transfixing. He was finishing up; the wall had already been transformed into a towering piece of art, a whispery rendition of a mysterious lady in grayscale with deliberate daubs of blue. Until then, I’d never realized just how much of an athletic feat this kind of aesthetic undertaking really is. Call it Spiderman-meetsPicasso, or something like that. Actually, call it what you will. When it comes to street art, looking for easy labels (is it conceptual? abstract? a manifesto?) may not be particularly helpful.

What is helpful is the abundance of art available to see; it’s wild out there. And it’s everywhere. Walk around Pangrati, in the thicket of streets that stretch out behind 106

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the Panathenaic Stadium, and you’ll come across the cheeky outlines of the Athenian Sailor, a rotund Popeye-style figure that’s the signature imprint of artist Dreyk the Pirate. Tiptoe behind the old OSY depot in Gazi, the building that recently housed an exhibition on Leonardo da Vinci, to find a monumental work by INO that will stop you in your tracks: a high-impact but playfully politicized repast called Last Supper in Athens. Or venture into Psyrri, a hotbed of street art where riotous colors are seemingly plastered on every surface that isn’t a window. Over in Exarchia, which borders Kolonaki but is a million miles away from it temperamentally, Alex Martinez’s flamboyant depiction of a tropical jungle jazzes up the urban backdrop. It all adds up to a visual soundtrack for a city at once stuck like any other in its geo-coordinates yet in a constant swirl of motion; spend any length of time navigating the Athenian byways, and the effect is almost kaleidoscopic.

From exuberant murals executed with

Alexandros Vasmoulakis’ suspiciously merry figures stand guard over bustling Iroon Square in Psyrri.

astonishing levels of artistry to the most rudimentary graffiti “tags” and with lots in between, street art in Athens is now the contemporary counterpoint to the ancient ruins that have for centuries defined and dominated the city’s touristic iconography. There was, indeed, a time when Athens wasn’t exactly the mecca of street art that it is today. Psyrri’s creative renaissance, for example, was galvanized by the 2004 Olympic Games; later, the economic crisis proved a further incentive for artists of varying degrees of rebelliousness to get out there and paint.

Nikos Tonga, whose street-art handle is “Rude” and who also happens to lead an excellent and insightful three-hour tour of street art for Alternative Athens, says “The crisis didn’t create street art, it just introduced a different inspiration for the

Smart, n_Grams, Alex Martinez and Billy G pay homage to Loukanikos, an Athens stray who rose to legendary status for being on the front line of every protest rally during the peak of the economic crisis.

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Tales of the city by Dimitris Taxis on an apartment block at 9 Agatharchou.

A cat suns itself beneath the colorful wings of “City Angels,� a piece

by Cacao Rocks at Avdi Square in Metaxourgeio.

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A detail from a piece by Malarko Hernandez and David Shillinglaw at 1 Evmorfopoulou.

The walls of the Embros Theater have always lent themselves as a canvas to Athens’ street artists.

The pedestrian strip of Louka Nika is basically an open-air gallery.

Walls all over Metaxourgeio, Psyrri and Exarchia are literally dripping with ink.

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artists plying their craft.”

It’s not all spray paint. Some street artists prefer to use paint buckets instead because, as Dreyk the Pirate says: “The paintbrush sort of signals to the police, ‘Oh, let’s check out what he’s up to’ rather than ‘Let’s lock him up for it’.” But if you want to see a panoply of renegade art where the interpretation of what’s allowed and what’s not is very visibly elastic, try Metaxourgio, a scruffy neighborhood currently undergoing slow-motion gentrification, leaving behind its reputation as an outdoor shooting gallery for junkies framed by architectural disrepair.

Given its location between the already largely modernized Gazi and busy/buzzy Psyrri, this makes sense. The area doesn’t have the same reputation for anarchy as does Exarchia, the more rough-and-tumble repository of street art, but it’s still got a lot more grit than glamour. Things here are still resolutely defiant, sometimes raw.

You’ll see things like a three-dimensional replica of an ancient Greek amphora doused in white paint and emblazoned with the stylized words “I feel so online,” and, less subtly, a primitive portrait of a well-known member of Golden Dawn, Greece’s far-right neo-Nazi party, with his

A young boy meets Democritus at the port of Piraeus in “We Have the Power” by INO.

INO’S INSIGHT INO, a native of Piraeus, will not reveal his full name, age or astrological sign, but can confirm that, from 2000 to 2004, he was part of the young Athenian graffiti generation: he calls that period “a blast of vandalism, armed with spray paint.” He also states that he studied in the Athens School of Fine Arts for five years, ending his studies about ten years ago. His objective was never to find celebrity as a street artist, but he says: “The good thing about fame is that it gives you an opportunity to develop in more directions.”

What inspires you to paint?

When I paint I want to describe the facts of a situation. It’s a visual description.

Do you have a favorite color?

You might say light blue, but I like combinations and also monochromatic stuff. That’s why I use the grayscale with its inherent contradictions and after, some light blue to calm things a bit, give an extra tone. It’s the cherry on the pie.

The ascension of Apollo and the fall of the astronaut in “Homo Deus,” a joint effort by Russia’s Andrey Zhokhov and local talent Paparazzi.

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How do you paint? Let’s talk technique...

When you paint on a surface like a wall, you usually have to make a composition, also taking into account what will be the spectator’s perspective. You have to consider all this and use your own inspirations of course; I paint what I like to see and start with a free sketch on paper.

On the street, I may have a tablet or a mobile for reference, but no projectors or anything like that. I’m more ‘artist’ when I visualize, but when I’m executing that vision on the

street, I’m more ‘technician’. I want to have a balance between technique and inspiration, style and idea. At least, I’m looking for that balance now; it may change in the future.

What’s the craziest thing that’s ever happened to you while outside painting?

When I was painting the Da Vinci wall, some crazy guy came by and asked me to stop what I was doing and paint Stalin instead.

Is your version of Last Supper kind of a political statement?

I don’t want to have any political side or affiliation. As regards all that, I’d rather be more like a kid.

What might we expect to see with your signature on it in the next six to ten months?

Large-scale murals in downtown Athens. I’ve just finished some ropetraining exercises. [The calluses on his hands bear this out]. I’m getting ready for some work that’s more personal.

47km Athens-Sounion Av., 19013 Anavyssos Attica, Greece Email: welcome@evereden.gr Tel.: 22910 60031

www.evereden.gr

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“Believe in Dreams” is by the Balinese artist Wild Drawing, who has spent the past few years living and working in Athens.

head emerging from a toilet. Possibly derivative of Shepard Fairey’s now-iconic “Hope” image of Obama, this one carries a warning that is its political polar opposite.

These once-derelict and now newly resurgent districts have become the canvas for legions of graffiti artists, many of whom, like INO, studied at the Athens School of Fine Arts [see box]. And, as elsewhere, Athenian street art typically carries a message, which is sometimes clearly political but virtually always anti-commercial. “I want to feel the walls when I paint, to go to a place without any particular recipe,” INO declares. “And I

MURALSPOTTING The fruits of the labors of Athens’ semi-anonymous army of street artists come in all forms: giant murals, tiny spray-painted stencils, enigmatic “calligraffiti” and any number of other iterations. For the highest concentration, start by taking Metro Line 3 to Kerameikos; when you exit, just look around and you’ll see outdoor murals galore.

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want to spread art, not merchandise.”

While that’s a sentiment likely to be echoed by the majority of street artists working in Athens today – creativity before commerce – it’s also true that we’re living in the era of Banksy and his many imitators, the age of “Instagrammability” and instant commodification of just about anything that sells. But it would be inaccurate to credit Banksy with the Athenian street art revolution. Because that compass points to New York, with a surprising Greek twist.

As Rude points out on his street tour, it was actually a Greek graffiti artist, TAKI 183, who started spray-painting his name

As you walk northeast from here, the neighborhood becomes by turns more dilapidated and transitional: welcome to Metaxourgeio, where you may spot a remnant of neo-Byzantine iconography by Stelios Faitakis (whose art is now found in galleries), or a large-scale mural by SAME84.

The spectacle reaches its apotheosis in adjacent Psyrri. Not far from the Monastiraki metro station – on the side that’s just north

around the streets of Manhattan in the early 1970s. Then along came JeanMichel Basquiat, who tagged walls of the Lower East Side with the cryptic signature SAMO and whose work eventually caught the eye of Andy Warhol.

It was, in fact, the gritty New York of that time and the synergy of artists like Basquiat and Haring with Warhol that first fired up the amorphous street art machine and, by doing so, paved the way for the legitimization of street art. And just as New York’s fiscal fragility may have led street artists to double down on their creative endeavors, so too did Greece’s dark days of austerity conspire to create other forms of illumination. There’s something about Athens, however, that casts its street art in a different light than that of London or New York. It’s the inescapable presence of antiquity: only in Athens do you have the juxtaposition of a very ancient urban aesthetic – the Parthenon and Acropolis and the Panathenaic Stadium all loom large, not just in the physical space of the city but in the collective conception of what defines Athens as a great city – with outdoor artworks telegraphing messages and colors you’ll never find on a Doric column.

of Ermou Street – there’s a very large mural (look for the big toothy smiles) by Alexandros Vasmoulakis (aka Vasmou) looming above the busy cafés of Psyrri Square. In the same area, be on the lookout for large-scale vibrant murals by the likes of Alex Martinez (such as his mural of Loukanikos, the riot dog), INO, WD and numerous others. Psyrri is basically the biggest public art gallery in the city, with

patches of brushwork and spray-painted fabulousness at nearly every turn.

Contrast this with the scene in Exarchia, where edgy graffiti and murals add verve to a neighborhood where the urban needle points palpably in the direction of simmering anarchy, which, spiritually at least, is where this art form got its start.

THE RESTAURANT PROSOPA opened in 1998, promised to offer its personal sign in the sector of gastronomy, combining quality and value in a friendly and comfortable environment.

Located in Rouf area, nearby the blue line of metro Kerameikos station, behind Benaki Museum and next to the railway lines, is influenced by the artistic energy and the urban scenery that characterize the area.

Entering to Prosopa you are greeted by the Prosopa Tree in the main sala. A symbol of serenity and happiness above us. Endless summer in Greece gives us to cherish the unique Prosopa Garden from April until autumn.

Numerous art installations are taking place throughout the year by well-known and upcoming artists, leading us to the street art wall collage as we are heading to the garden.

Also, Prosopa loves food and we strive to source and utilize the finest ingredients and quality domestic produce meat and seafood for our menu. We believe that the better the quality of the raw ingredients, the finer the end result on the plate will be. Here you can enjoy unique cocktails from our signature list made by award-winning bartenders or stay with the classics executed to perfection. You will also find greek surprise ingredients in many of the choices as a twist.

Megalou Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4, Athens

|

Å.: contact@prosopa.gr

T.: 210 3413433

SUMMER GUIDE

Your essential guide for surviving the high temperatures and experiencing the very best of summer in Athens.

PAULINA BJÖRK KAPSALIS - PBK, OLGA CHARAMI - OC MARIA COVEOU - MC, NENA DIMITRIOU - ND, ALEX KING - AK PAGONA LAPSATI - PL, ALEXANDRA MANDRAKOU - AM ALEXANDRA TZAVELLA - AT

NATIONAL GARDEN

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PEEK A BLOOM

SUMMER GUIDE

COFFEE BOOST 116

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ou’re in one of the leading coffee capitals in Europe, a true third wave paradise. Athens boasts serious coffee drinkers, experienced roasters and internationally acclaimed baristas, as well as a wealth of great spaces to enjoy the local blends. On warmer days, do as the Athenians do and relax with a freddo, or cold coffee.

ONE TO GO: For takeout coffee, head to Kaya (7 Voulis), which offers a constantly changing selection of four different coffees. Nearby, TOMS (8 Mitropoleos Square), a socially conscious brand, brews locally roasted Wisecup coffee and serves it exclusively in paper cups. For every cup you buy, you

help TOMS provide water to communities around the world who don’t have access to a safe source.

COFFEE LOVES DESIGN: The stylish Anäna Coffee Food (33 Praxitelous) is the definition of minimal. It opened just a few months ago in the historical center. Housed in the atrium of an elegant old Athenian apartment block, it offers a few tables for those who enjoy a quiet brew. Anäna roasts only the finest beans, serves coffee in ceramic cups, has vegan desserts and uses organic (or non-dairy) milk. A short walk away, on the ground floor of the Blend Hotel, is the charming all-day café-restaurant Folk (2

SUMMER GUIDE

Vyssis), which serves coffee from the local roaster Taf, and offers non-dairy milk options for vegan drinkers. Try the iced latte. The floor-to-ceiling windows are ideal for people watching.

The unique aesthetics of Third Place (Apollonos 23B) make a strong impression, with pastel hues and a design concept that combines Scandinavia with Korea. Their robust dark roasted coffee is sourced from Ofellia, a local importer and roaster. The all-pink bathroom has become a star in its own right, a regular spot for Instagram-worthy photoshoots.

THE HANGOUTS: Without an insider’s knowledge of the city’s hidden hangouts, it would be easy to miss Peek A Bloom, one

of the most successful all-day café-bars in Athens. However, here you’ll find some of the capital’s most interesting people sipping well-brewed espressos made from beans roasted on-site and served in wonderful ceramic cups. Breakfasts, excellent sandwiches and light meals are also on offer. For something livelier in a larger venue and with coffee that’s just as good, try Lot 51 (24B Papadiamantopoulou). Near the Athens Hilton, this neon-decorated establishment helped bring a neglected square back to life. Tables are hard to come by during the weekend, so you’ll be lucky to find one, and luckier still if it’s in the shade under the awning. – N.D.

TOMS

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n April of 1998, the first Komboloi (Worrybead) Museum - and the

only one in the world – was founded in Nafplio by Aris Evangelinos and Rallou Gromitsari. Since the 1970s, they have begun their great common journey to the ‘komboloi routes’, collecting knowledge and old and

are on the ground floor. The purpose

rare strings of beads (kombolois and prayer beads) from all sorts of materials from all over the world.

and mission of the Komboloi Museum is to pre- serve the traditional Greek komboloi and make

Thus, they have acquired a unique collection in the world dating from 1550 to 1950, part of which is exhibited in the museum. The exhibition

it better known... an object that is a game and a personal affair of each one and is indissolubly linked to Greek culture, tradition and history.

halls are situated on the upper floor. The Museum Shop and Workshop

Thank you.

Staikopoulou 25, Nafplion, T: +0030 27520 21618 E: komuseum@otenet.gr | www.komboloi.gr

SUMMER GUIDE

CHILL OUT IN THE GARDEN

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ver since the early 20th century, Athenians have sought refuge and respite from hot summer days in the lush, green embrace of the National Garden. Here, you’re just a few steps away from the hustle and bustle of the baking sidewalks outside, but temperatures are two to three degrees lower than in the city beyond the garden’s walls. So grab a good book, pick up some fruit and water, and relax amid this much-loved 39-acre oasis in the heart of the city. Commissioned

by Queen Amalia in 1838, this was once the Royal Garden; it backs onto what was once the Royal Palace (now the Parliament). It’s said that Amalia was the one who ordered the planting of the now 25m-tall Washingtonia palm trees that grace the garden’s entrance on Vasilissis Amalias Avenue. As for the park’s other plants, many of those were gifts given to the Greek royal family from around the world, which explains the presence of so many non-native species. Permanent residents include turtles, peacocks and tawny owls. Open from dawn till dusk, the National Garden is a favorite spot for joggers, families with children who come to use the pleasant playground, and, indeed, anyone looking for some shade and serenity. – A.K.

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FEELS LIKE AN ISLAND

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he Anafiotika neighborhood, just above Plaka, was built in the early 19th century by skilled builders from the Cycladic island of Anafi.

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houses in the image of the ones they left behind, creating an island-like neighborhood that makes you forget you are in Athens. Prepare to be charmed by its amalgam of colorful and stark white houses, most with ornate doorways flanked with flowers planted in large tin containers. The exact location of Anafiotika is baffling, even for many Athenians, who

may know of the neighborhood but not how to access it. In fact, it’s very easy: if you’re on pedestrianized Dionysiou Areopagitou Street near the Acropolis Museum, simply find Thrasyllou Street and walk uphill. When you see the tiny Church of Aghios Georgios of the Rock on your left, you know you’ve made it!

– M.C.

© DIMITRIS VLAIKOS

SUMMER GUIDE

JUST ONE MORE SCOOP

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he trend for garishly colored ice cream in super-sized display tubs is fading fast. In Athens today, there are an increasing number of newly opened parlors offering handmade ice cream created using only fresh ingredients, without powdered additives or ready-made mixes.

Kokkion (2 Protogenous) in Monastiraki belongs to a highly trained pastry maker, who studied at Paris’ famous Cordon Bleu and at the Espaisucre School in Barcelona, before completing his professional training at Michelin three-star restaurants. Whether you get a cone or a cup, both the tangerine sorbet with ginger and the mascarpone gelato (made with a recipe using molasses and bergamot orange) are great choices. Across from Monastiraki Square, IceRoll (2 Athinas) is where you want to be if you like some showmanship with your dessert. Choose from a long list of ingredients – including different fruits, biscuits, crushed pralines or even donuts – and then stand back and watch the gelatiere pour the milk, together with your chosen ingredients, over an instant-freeze cold slab to create a custom-made ice cream as you wait. The portions are very generous, enough for two people. Near Syntagma Square, look for Choureal (2 Diomeias), which isn’t an ice cream parlor, but a proper pastry shop with outstanding profiteroles, prepared fresh with each order.

France has mastered the art of pastry making, so do as the French do and ask for your freshly baked choux buns to be filled with delicious handmade vanilla ice cream. Top them off with chocolate sauce, which sets hard as it freezes over the ice cream. Squeeze inside the tiny Le Greche (16 Mitropoleos) nearby for traditional Italian gelato. When it arrived on the scene a few years ago, this place wowed Athenians with fruity sorbets, real pistachio ice cream and exceptional cheese and fig ice cream.– N.D.

LE GRECHE

CHOUREAL © ALEXANROS ANTONIADIS AT H E N S S U M M E R 2 019

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KOKKION

SUMMER GUIDE

MAKE A SPLASH!

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hen temperatures rise and you want to hit the beach but can’t face the traffic or public transportation, the next best thing is to take a refreshing dive into the Athens Hilton’s outdoor swimming pool. At 25 meters long and up to 3.5m deep, it’s the biggest hotel pool in central Athens 122

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and certainly one of the classiest, with its brand-new umbrellas, comfortable sun loungers and impeccable service, all amid palm trees and banana plants for that exotic touch. At the Oasis Pool Bar and Grill you can enjoy healthy, creative dishes, as well as fresh juices, smoothies and refreshing cocktails.

The pool is open daily from 08:00 to 21:00, but it’s preferable to visit on weekdays when it’s cheaper (€35) and less crowded. For night swimming, visit on Thursdays and Fridays, when the pool stays open until 01:00 (until August 9, €20). (hiltonathens.gr) – M.C.

“Veiled” in the most picturesque site of Attica, on the Athenian Riviera, Lake Vouliagmeni is a unique destination for the seekers of well-being. It is one of nature’s miracles.

This unique environment comes together by the existence of a daunting rock, thermal waters, labyrinthine underwater tunnels and the lush vegetation. Situated on an idyllic landscape, this rare geological phenomenon is waiting to be discovered.

Being globally defined as a unique geological phenomenon, the Lake is included in Greece’s national NATURA 2000 network and as a Site of Outstanding Natural Beauty by the Ministry of Culture. In addition, Lake Vouliagmeni is also included on Greece’s list of recognized thermal springs.

The lake’s brackish waters which are continuously replenished by the sea and underground thermal springs, with a temperature between 22 to 29 degrees Celsius all year round, offer a natural and unique thermal spa experience.

A holistic experience for rejuvenating both body and mind! Swimming in the lake is more than pleasurable, stimulating the swimmers’ energy and balancing their wellness.

The Doctor Spa fish, part of the Lake’s unique ecosystem, rids the skin of its scales and offers a natural rejuvenation.

Sunbeds and Umbrellas are offered around the Lake’s shoreline.

After submerging in the beneficial waters of the Lake, indulge in a soothing massage under nature’s scenic surroundings.

Privé Area promises moments of lavishness and complete relaxation. Immersed in the pine shade, Privé exuding an air of cosmopolitan luxury. Synonymous to absolute relaxation, is the ideal choice for escaping from the ordinary…

Nero restaurant, gracefully nested in the Lake’s scenic location, is one of the most alluring fine dining destinations.

Embracing Greek hospitality, Nero’s menu is dedicated to Greek and Mediterranean cuisine reaffirming that authentic food brings back memories and experiences which please the eye and delight the soul. With a magnificent view to the Lake’s unique natural beauty, Nero also promises an unforgettable dining experience.

ZISIS

© THALIA GALANOPOULOU

GOOD FOOD ON THE GO

SUMMER GUIDE

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hile everyone loves traditional taverna cuisine, no visit to the city is complete without at least one souvlaki. Try the pita with lamb skewers at Athina Souvlaki (33 Makriyianni). For vegan alternatives, seek out Cookoomela Grill (43-45 Themistokleous) in the Exarchia neighborhood, where you can chow down on a souvlaki with mushrooms or a lentil kebab. Souv124

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laki will always have pride of place in the Greek street food scene, but an exciting array of other choices have appeared in recent years. Zisis (3 Athinaidos) serves fried seafood, including squid and shrimp, in paper cones. It’s a Greek take on fish and chips that’s become a beloved Athenian treat. For a more tropical seafood snack, head to Poké Hawaiian Sushi (7 Petraki), a popular hole-in-the-

wall which introduced the city to Hawaiian flavors in bowls. Try the salmon and avocado, the shrimp and pineapple, or the fish of the day. For one of the best pizzas in Athens, put your trust in Crust (13 Protogenous) in the Psyrri neighborhood. A pizza joint with a club underneath, it stays open until the early hours to cater for those after-drinks munchies.

– P. B.K.

A trip to the old Athens of the Middle Ages with small modern touches.

The building at 29 Voulis Street was built in 1935, with its own history, on the ground floor was housed the first store of the Vassilopoulos Bros (Greeks Super Market, basic supplier of the Greek Royal Family at that time).

A Complete renovation was hold in 2017 to give a new life to this building. It was named V1935 after the date of its construction.

In House, you can find the V1935 Luxurious Apartments, 9 luxurious apartments and studios, fully equipped, with en aesthetic to fit with the building’s date of construction. Equipped with the best mattresses and 120- TV channels, covers almost all languages to give you the feeling of being at home.

The V1935 Roof Garden, which is open all year long, from 17:00 to 01:00, with Ferforge seats and a projector of silent black and white movie cinema, takes you to another era with the city’s best Napolitano pizza and cocktails.

In the summer with its open awning to the amazing starry Athenian sky and in the winter with the warmth of a space that takes you to the era of Inter-war Athens.

On the ground floor is the V1935 Mediterranean Tastes, with breakfast buffet from 8:00 to 11:00 and from 13:00 until 23:00 as a Modern Greek Cuisine restaurant with the signature of the award winning Greek Chef Yiannis Stanitsa. With the authentic stone of the building as the main material of the interior design, takes you back to the old luxurious Plaka (the oldest neighborhood under the Acropolis hill).

The V1935 Roof Garden and the V1935 Mediterranean Tastes cater to the needs and tastes of not only hotel guests but also passers-by.

Voulis 29, Syntagma 10557 Athens Email: info@v1935.gr,

V1935

V1935

V1935 Luxurious Apartments Tel. 211 182 1935, www.v1935.gr,

V1935 Luxurious Apartments

V1935 Mediterranean Tastes Tel. 210 4100603, www.v1935medtastes.gr, V1935 Mediterranean Tastes V1935 Roof Garden Tel. 210 3249961

THE STRANGE BREW

BREW UP A STORM

© TATIANA MEGEVAND

SUMMER GUIDE

TALES OF ALES

© THALIA GALANOPOULOU

© THALIA GALANOPOULOU

BREW ST.

O

n a sizzling day in Athens, there are few things more refreshing than a cold beer. Recent years have seen a craft beer revolution sweep Greece, with microbreweries popping up on the islands, in central Athens and around the mainland. Today, there’s no need to settle for a bland multinational brand: the ever-growing range of high-quality Greek craft beers is sure to leave a sweeter and more revitalizing taste in your mouth.

Strange Brew is one of the most celebrated brands of this new generation.

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ers; they don’t have their own facilities, so they use those of other companies.

Hailing from Athens, the team has brewed in both Sparta and Chios before coming home for their latest creation, Farmhouse Ale, which they’re making at the new Alea Brewery on the city’s outskirts. Other options include Mandy Black, a thick export stout, and the fruity Jasmine IPA, arguably the ultimate Athenian summer beer. This year, the team opened The Strange Brew Taproom & Bottleshop (86 Falirou) in Koukaki, whch has a minimal, Scandinavian aesthetic, a rotating selection of ten Greek craft beers on tap

and a wide range of bottled brews.

Another purpose-built space to enjoy craft beer is Tales of Ales (19 Miltiadou). This cozy bar in Monastiraki is a cool hideaway in the summer, where you can enjoy your brew (and great music) with other beer lovers.

Co-founders Agis and Kostas are on hand to answer questions and introduce you to Greece’s best beers.

There’s a stellar selection on tap and the fridges are an Aladdin’s cave of domestic and imported beers.

Alternatively, grab a bottle at Brew Str (50A Nikis), which boasts an equally impressive range. – A.K.

ASTIR BEACH

info

Astir Beach, 40 Apollonos, Vouliagmeni. There is no public transport service directly to the resort, so you’ll need to take a cab • Akti Vouliagmenis: take the 122 bus from Elliniko metro station or the 117 from Glyfada • Yabanaki: take the 171 or 122 bus from Elliniko metro station •

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hat with all the museum visits and sightseeing at ancient sites, the shopping sprees in the city center and the long downtown coffee breaks, it’s easy to forget that Athens is as close to the sea as it is. Take a few hours out of your busy itinerary and spend them at the beach, lazing on a lounger or swimming in the clean waters off Athens’ southern coast.

Astir Beach (Tel. (+30) 890.1619, astir. gr), the queen of the Athens Riviera, has maintained its iconic status for 60odd years. It boasts a long list of celebrities who have dipped a graceful toe in its sparkling waters. Chill out under your black-and-white striped umbrella, order whatever you like from the all-

day menu of the 40Forty Day Night Bar Restaurant (using their clever beeper system) or book a table at Nice n’ Easy Seaside for a farm-to-table experience by the water. The amazing range of options includes pampering treatments at the Holmes Place Spa, as well as water sports and beach volleyball and paddle ball. Booking a lounger online is a great solution for a stress-free visit, unless you’re happy to be here before 11:00 to find a spot.

About a kilometer from Astir, the Blue Flag-awarded Akti Vouliagmenis Beach (Tel. (+30) 896.0697, vouliagmeni-akti.gr) is a more budget-friendly and low-key option. It has a lovely wide stretch of sand and is especially

popular among families with small children because the waters are not deep. Apart from sun loungers and umbrellas, it’s also equipped with tennis, volleyball and basketball courts, as well as a bar with all the basics.

If you want more out of your day at the beach than lounging around and taking a swim, Yabanaki (Tel. (+30) 210.897.2414, yabanaki.gr) in Varkiza is, hands down, the beach facility with the most to offer in Attica. Thatched umbrellas provide ample shade during the scorching midday hours, there are all sorts of water sports and there’s also a range of food options, from Italian cuisine and Greek meze to burgers and souvlaki. – A.M.

SUMMER GUIDE

BEACH, PLEASE

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ne way to escape rising temperatures is to head for the hills and feel the breeze that awaits you at the summit. Athens boasts four prime vantage points. To catch the Acropolis bathed in the hues of sunrise, get up bright and early and head up the Hill of the Nymphs, taking Otrineon Street up from pedestrianized Apostolou Pavlou Street to the flat area around the National Observatory of Athens. Or come by in the evening and

continue walking south-east towards the Hill of the Muses and the Philopappos Monument, a ruined second-century tomb with a commanding view of the city. Visitors gather here daily to take in the sunset. Another popular spot for sunset-watching is located almost opposite the main entrance of the Acropolis. The 155m Areopagus (“Ares’ Rock”), has been the stage for many important mythological and historical events. Athenians flock here

on summer evenings as the sun drops.

There have, however, been reports of pickpockets and purse snatchers, so watch out for your personal belongings. For a 360-degree view of both the mountains and the sea, Lycabettus Hill, the highest point downtown, literally can’t be topped. The easiest way to the top is by cable car (1 Aristippou; €7 round-trip, €5 one way). To walk down, take the path that starts behind the church – A.K.

FILOPAPPOS HILL

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CATCH THE BREEZE

THE HEALING LAKE

If the idea of a spa treatment sounds appealing, then why not opt for Athens’ most natural of spas, cleverly disguised as a gorgeous lake. Located some 24km from downtown Athens on the Athenian Riviera, Lake Vouliagmeni is a natural wonder (protected under the Natura 2000 network) that assumed its present form after an underwater thermal spring caused the roof of an enormous cave to come tumbling down. Its therapeutic emerald waters, with their balmy water temperature (a steady 22-29°C), its Garra

rufa fish (which exfoliate your skin), its mysterious labyrinthine underwater cave system, and the sheer beauty of the place attract bathers all year round.

The facilities include the all-day bar-restaurant Nero (“water” in Greek), which is particularly enchanting in the evening when the cliffs surrounding the lake are illuminated. Its menu features comfort food dishes, platters, as well as fine dining options, all of which can be accompanied by some fine Greek wines.

– M.C.

info

Opening hours: 07:30-20:00 • General admission (€12 on weekdays and €15 on weekends) includes deck loungers. Double day beds on the deck (€25 on weekdays and €30 on weekends per person) and sun beds in the VIP area (€45 on weekdays and weekends) come with a towel and drink and can be pre-booked at Tel. (+30) 210.896.2237/39 • Bar-restaurant Nero: 08:3002:00 (kitchen closes at 00:00). limnivouliagmenis.gr •

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THE NEED FOR SPEED

F

eel the wind on your face as you watch the city rushing by: the easiest and most satisfying way to get moving in Athens is on two wheels. After the arrival of tech startups Lime and Hive, the city center is full of new electric scooters, which you can pick up in seconds and responsibly leave wherever you please. All you need is a smartphone to download the relevant app; once you’ve completed a simple registration process and scanned the scooter’s QR code, you’re ready to go. This noiseless and eco-friendly mode of transport is growing in popularity among locals and tourists alike. The scooters are a great way to fill in the gaps not easily reachable by public transportation, and rentals are charged by time, which usually proves economical for short journeys.

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The state of Athenian sidewalks and roads, however, often leaves a lot to be desired, so pay attention to the surface beneath your wheels and take care. You’re also obliged to stay within the designated rental area, which is limited to the center. These concerns, however, are more than offset by the feeling of freedom as you glide through the city. If you want to be more ambitious, Scooterise (18 Chatzichristou, Tel. (+30) 216.700.3277) offers electric scooter rental by the day – where your only limit is the battery on your machine. Or, if you prefer bigger wheels and are happy to use muscle power, Funky Ride (1 Dimitrakopoulou, Tel. (+30) 211.710.9366) in Koukaki offers bicycle rentals, so you can pedal through the city – or even further afield – at your own pace. – A.K.

info

ridehive.com li.me • scooterise.com • •

© GIORGOS VITSAROPOULOS

SUMMER GUIDE

ELEFTHERIA STAMATI

FUN, FUNKY AND GREEK

One of the five necklaces featured in the collection The Mechanics of Black; they look like tattoos when worn against the skin. eleftheriastamati.com

COLOUR GREECE: THE COLOURING TRAVEL GUIDES

Paint the city of Athens in whatever colors you choose. Colour Athens, one of a series, is an alternative tourist guide featuring Athenian landmarks that you can color in, as well as information about what to see and how to get around the city. www.colourgreece.com

© PARIS TAVITIAN

G

reek artists – designers and craftsmen – put their creative spirit down on paper, pour their imagination into molds or give shape to their dreams using clay, finding inspiration from their homeland and producing handmade objects out of 100 percent natural or environmentally friendly materials. Taking a novel business approach, small, highly original entrepreneurial ventures are making the most of both the latest technological innovations and traditional processes to create beautiful, high-quality products. – P. L.

MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART: SPECIAL EDITIONS

This ceramic plate is an exact replica of one of the items featured in the exhibition “Picasso and Antiquity: Line and Clay,” showcasing ceramics and drawings by Pablo Picasso inspired by the animals and mythological creatures of antiquity. cycladic.gr/shop

WHEN IN GREECE

Mug and candle cup, both made of fine Bohemian china that is dishwasher and microwave-safe. wheningreece.gr

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MERAKI

© XARIS MOURATIDIS, CHRIS DOULGERIS

The Flaneur clutch bag comes with an extra leather strap so that it can be carried as a shoulder bag.

Handcrafted in Greece by local craftsmen using premium-quality top grain leather. bymeraki.com

RDESIGN

Decorative wish tree with three words, “love,” “happy” and “smile,” made of powder-coated steel. Designed by Ritsa Anastasiadou. rdesign.gr

WATERBAG

Εco-chic practical cloth bag created by the NGO Agoni Grammi Gonimi, an initiative providing support to communities on remote islands, as part of its environmental awareness program WeAreTheEnviRonment. waterbags.gr

TOMY K.

Double-sided 100 percent cotton printed cushions with zip fasteners: “Delos Black” (50cm x 30cm) and “Ariadne” (40cm x 40cm). “Epidaurus” print tote bag, black shoulder straps and decorative tassels, also 100 percent cotton fabric. iamtomyk.com

LAOUTA

Totally natural skin care products with olive oil and Greek herbs. “Beach body oil with sea buckthorn and fig.” laouta.com

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COOL DRINKS, AWESOME VIEW

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The view of the Acropolis illuminated in the evening is the kind of stunning sight that turns heading out for a few drinks into a magnificent experience. A for Athens (2-4 Miaouli, Sun-Thu 10:30-2:30 & FriSat 10:30-3:30) is one of the city’s most popular rooftop bars. Their cocktail list, curated by renowned bartender Thodoris Pirillos, is inspired by Homer’s Odyssey. A short walk from here is Couleur Locale (3 Normanou, Sun-Thu 10:00-02:00 & Fri-Sat 10:00-03:00). Hard to find, it’s a great place to avoid the tourist crowds and mingle with some locals. Nearby Anglais (6 Kirikiou & Mitropoleos, Open 11.00-03.00) is slightly more romantic, decorated

with lots of greenery, flower prints and pastel colors, giving it a summery, English countryside vibe. At Point a (4A Rovertou Galli, 18:3024:00), on the roof of the Herodion Hotel, you’ll find a view of both the “Sacred Rock” and the Acropolis Museum. Cocktails here are made with local ingredients. The same drinks philosophy applies at the bar of Michelin-starred Hytra (107-109 Syngrou, 20:00-02:00), on the roof of the Onassis Cultural Center. For something different, try the roof garden at the new Foundry Hotel (40 Sarri, Wed-Sun 18:30-1:30), where you can order fully stocked picnic baskets. On weekends, staff fire up the pizza oven. – P.Β.K.

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ANGLAIS

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FILL IN THE SQUARES

DEXAMENI SQUARE

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ummer nights in Athens are magical. It often feels like the whole city is out on the streets. After dark, the city’s many elegant squares, or plateias, become beacons of life and locals flock to the action, like moths to a flame, to catch up with friends over food and drinks long into the early hours. Aghia Irini Square in Monastiraki is one of the city’s most picturesque; it’s next to a large Orthodox church from which the square gets its name.

Here, you’ll join a young crowd for wine or cocktails at bars that spill out over the square (and along adjacent Aiolou Street). A short walk away, Iroon Square is at the heart of the action in Psyrri, a lively neighborhood bursting with great bars, restaurants and boutique hotels.

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A local favorite is Nancy’s Sweet Home, which serves up decadent desserts. On the other side of the city center, at the base of Lycabettus Hill, Dexameni is a popular Athenian haunt: a cool, shaded space between Irakleitou and Xanthippou streets, high up in the Kolonaki neighborhood. The historic Café Dexameni started life as a traditional kafeneio in the early 20th century, when much of the area was still mostly grazing land. Today, it’s one of the city’s best spots for beers, ouzo and meze. It’s also a date destination, with dinner often followed by a film at the adjacent open-air movie theater, also called Dexameni. The theater sits atop the Roman-era cistern that was part of Hadrian’s Aqueduct. – A.K.

tip

As you climb up the steps to Dexameni Square at night, turn around to catch a wonderful view of an illuminated Acropolis.

Τ

Μ

ε εµµονή και πάθος για φιλοξενία και αυθεντικό φαγητό, µια παρέα φίλων δηµιούργησε ένα πρωτότυπο χώρο µε ιδιαίτερο γαστρονοµικά θέµα, το HAMS & CLAMS. Το HAMS & CLAMS είναι ένα ξεχωριστό oyster bar µε πρωταγωνιστές τα στρείδια σε διάφορες παραλλαγές, καθώς και κάθε λογής θαλασσινά, σε έναν χώρο που θυµίζει παραλιακό θέρετρο κάπου στη Μεσόγειο. Με επιλογές από jamόn iberico για τους λάτρεις του είδους, υπηρετεί και πάλι τη φιλοσοφία των δηµιουργών του: Κάνουµε τους ανθρώπους ευτυχισµένους µέσω του φαγητού.

HAMS & CLAMS: Λιµάνι Μαρίνα Ζέας, Κτίριο Γ’, 185 37, Πειραιάς. Τηλέφωνο: 210 418 6683

With persistence and passion for hospitality and authentic food, a group of friends created HAMS & CLAMS, an original space with a special culinary theme. With reference to Andalusia’s family shops and the picturesque delis of Southern Italy, HAMS & CLAMS has become a favourite hangout for those who love seafood and jam n. With an oyster bar which brings the sea on your palate and a selection of the best jamόn of the world for the fans of the variety, HAMS & CLAMS is a new suggestion that also serves the philosophy of its creators: “Make people happy through food”.

HAMS & CLAMS: Piraeus Harbour, Marina Zeas, Building C, 185 37, Piraeus.

Contact number: +30 210 418 6683 HAMS & CLAMS @hamsandclams hamsandclams

ο CORKS & FORKS δηµιουργήθηκε από τέσσερις φίλους µε κοινό στοιχείο την αγάπη τους για την εστίαση και τη φιλοξενία. Μετρώντας αρκετά χρόνια συνεργασίας σε διαφορετικούς χώρους εστίασης, θέλησαν να δηµιουργήσουν έναν δικό τους, ζεστό και οικείο χώρο, για να φιλοξενούν τον κόσµο, σαν να ήταν στο σπίτι τους. Η κουζίνα του CORKS & FORKS θα µπορούσε να χαρακτηριστεί «πληθωρική», µε πιάτα που περιλαµβάνουν από σαλάτες, πλατό τυριών και αλλαντικών, µέχρι steaks και ζυµαρικά. Το µυστικό της επιτυχίας του CORKS & FORKS κρύβεται στα προσεκτικά διαλεγµένα υλικά και στις συνταγές που αρέσουν πρώτα απ' όλα στους δηµιουργούς του. Με µοντέρνα industrial διακόσµηση, το CORKS & FORKS κερδίζει τις εντυπώσεις όχι µόνο γευστικά αλλά και οπτικά.

CORKS & FORKS: Ακτή Θεµιστοκλέους & Πάργας 1, 185 37, Πειραιάς. Τηλέφωνο: 215 515 9792

CORKS & FORKS was created by four friends sharing their love for food and hospitality. Counting several years of cooperation with different dining venues, they wanted to create their own, warm and intimate space to host people as if they were at home. The kitchen of CORKS & FORKS could be described as “exuberant”, with dishes ranging from salads, and meat and cheese platters, to steaks and pasta. The secret of success of CORKS & FORKS is hidden in carefully selected ingredients and recipes that appeal to its creators first and foremost. With a modern, industrial decor, CORKS & FORKS makes a great first impression, not only in terms of taste but also visually.

CORKS & FORKS: 1 Themistokleous Coast & Parga, 185 37, Piraeus.

Telephone number: +30 215 515 9792 CORKS & FORKS - Wine Pub@corksandforkswinepub corksandforks

BALTHAZAR

SUMMER GUIDE

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE

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hen temperatures rise to unbearable levels, you can follow the Athenians and escape to the islands, or you can embrace the heat and humidity and go totally tropical. In the bustling Gazi neighborhood, Salad “Den” Simla, chef at the newly opened Thai Zab (22 Dekeleon), makes his own delicious noodles, already popular with the city’s Thai community. Try the ba mee (egg noodles) tossed with a few drops of fish sauce and some chili. The city center also offers plenty of exciting exotic options. Madame Phu Man Chu (36 Praxitelous & 4 Skouleniou), another newcomer, serves Vietnamese dishes perfect for a quick bite between drinks. For a more upscale experience, choose Balthazar (27 Tsocha), where tropical fusion meets fine dining under the supervision of renowned chef Christoforos Peskias (I also come here for some of the best piña coladas in town, and for their excellent Exoti-que Old Fashioned).

For more after-dinner drinks, you can’t go wrong at Baba au Rum (6 Klitiou), which is currently listed as the world’s 22nd 142

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best bar. Their best-selling drink is the Spicy Baba, featuring aged rum from Trinidad and Tobago, ginger and sweet berries.

At three-month-old bar Under the Palm (37 Praxitelous), the tropical theme is tastefully understated, yet still undeniable; the cocktails are decidedly summery, too. At the other end of the spectrum design-wise, is Juan Rodriguez Bar (3 Pallados) in Psyrri, which looks like a speakeasy housed in a pirate ship stranded in a jungle. La Pitanda is a great cocktail with vodka, cucumber liqueur, elderflower liqueur, lime, ginger and honeydew.

End the night at Tiki Bar (15 Falirou), a local favorite, where Giannis Petris mixes classic and signature cocktails packed with tropical flavors. Try the Piscoteque, with Peruvian Pisco Kappa, elderflower and shiso bitters, or the bartender’s favorite, the Painkiller, with white rum, pineapple, orange, coconut cream and nutmeg. – P.B.K.

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aiorabooks.com Discover

another side of Greece

MODERN

GREEK CLASSICS

The best of Modern Greek literature in translation.

Visit the AIORA BOOKSHOP: Mavromichali 11, Athens (Metro Panepistimio)

Co-funded by the Creative Europe Programme of the European Union

SUMMER GUIDE

DUSK T AT SNFCC

he best time to enjoy the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center in summer is in the evening, shortly after the sun has set. In August, when many Athenians are away on vacation, it’s a quieter, more relaxed place, although there’s still plenty going on. The 210,000 m2 multipurpose cultural and recreation center, designed by archi-

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tectural firm Renzo Piano Building Workshop, was warmly embraced by the city’s residents from the first day it opened. Today, surrounded by beautifully tended gardens featuring characteristic species of Greek flora, it’s the home of the Greek National Opera and the National Library of Greece.

Begin your visit at the impressive Lighthouse atop the Greek Nation-

al Opera building, which affords panoramic views of Athens, Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf. Take a walk around the 400m-long Canal and stop for a coffee or a healthy snack. Cool off with an ice cream or some fresh juice from one of the vans in front of the Agora; stop by the smoke-free playground area (a must if you’re with kids), or relax in front of the Dancing Fountains,

the SNFCC’s latest attraction: 59 vertical water jets and 10 swiveling fountains, illuminated by underwater LED lighting, produce regular water shows – in August, every hour from 21.00 to midnight, to the accompaniment of music by Manos Hadjidakis and Georges Bizet (snfcc.org). – A.M.

© YIORGIS YEROLYMBOS

info

364 Syngrou, Tel. (+30) 216.809.1000 snfcc.org

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CINE STELLA

SUMMER GUIDE

ENCHANTING EVENINGS

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herever you are in the city, you’re never far from one of the best Athenian summer experiences: watching films under the stars! There are open-air movie theaters on rooftop terraces and in pebble-strewn courtyards, school playgrounds and empty lots between apartment blocks. Each one is special in its own way. The Ciné Paris (22 Kydathineon), for instance, offers views of the Acropolis and the picturesque neoclassical rooftops of Plaka. Locals love to watch movies outdoors in verdant venues tucked away in old Athenian neighborhoods; Oasis (7 Pratinou) in Pangrati, Zefyros (36 Troon) in Ano Petralona or the recently renovat146

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ed Stella (34 Tenedou) in Kypseli are all popular summer evening destinations.

Each movie theater has its own snack bar offering everything from popcorn to pizza, beer and cold drinks. Smoking is usually permitted. The popular Athens Open Air Film Festival returns this summer, with a rich program of free popup film screenings at parks, archaeological sites, museum forecourts and squares around the city. At most open-air movie theaters, they hold two screenings a night; one at around 21:00 and one at around 23:00. Films are shown in the original language with Greek subtitles, except for children’s movies, which are often dubbed into Greek. – A.T.

tip

Mosquito repellant is always a good idea, since many of the movie theaters are green, shady places that attract insects.

SUMMER GUIDE

TOP DINING

BY THE SEA

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ven after the sun goes down, a cool sea breeze remains an alluring prospect, and so does a seaside table. Thankfully, the Greek capital is home to Matsuhisa Athens (40 Apollonos Street, Vouliagmeni, Tel. (+30) 210.896.0510), one of Nobu Matsuhisa’s 40 amazing restaurants across the globe, all offering an inspired blend of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine. Matsuhisa Athens is situated at one of the city’s most privileged locations, within the luxury Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel, on a verdant promontory washed by the Aegean Sea. Sitting in the bar, you can enjoy a stunning sunset while sipping a Sakura Martini before your meal. The current menu features many elements that fuse Greek and Japanese cuisine. Highlights include the Sea Bass Umami, which is marinated for three days and served with sea salt and soy salt. At the other end of the Athens Riviera, in the picturesque marina of Mikrolimano, you’ll find Varoulko Seaside (54 Akti Koumoundourou, Mikrolimano, Tel. (+30) 210.522.8400). Here, owner and chef Lefteris Lazarou offers diners a wide range of creative seafood.

Working alongside talented chef Giannis Parikos in the kitchen, Lazarou has created a number of iconic dishes that you can savor only here, such as shrimp tartare with carrot gelée and ginger-lemongrass consommé, or grouper filet with Jerusalem artichoke mousse and mustard pickle. The comprehensive wine list is focused on Greek wines but also includes a choice of renowned international labels.

A few steps further along, Papaioannou (42 Akti Koumoundourou, Mikrolimano, Tel. (+30) 210.422.5059), a traditional fish restaurant, uses quality ingredients to create dishes that are classics without being boring. We recommend the sea urchin, the red mullet, or the catch of the day for large grilled fish. Order a bottle of Greek white from the long wine list. – N.D. 148

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MATSUHISA VAROULKO SEASIDE

Kyniska Palace is a serene hideaway at the foothills of mountain Taygetos where nature, discreet luxury and local myths are in perfect harmony. If you are looking for a breathtaking, all year round holiday experience, full of comfort and authentic hospitality in the heart of the Peloponnese, this is the place to be.

Built by the glorious Spartan stone, 10 minutes from the center of Sparta and only 5 minutes from the legendary castle town of Mystras, this brand-new, 5 star hotel in the Peloponnese, develops with respect to the scenery, through 9 buildings and 32 luxury suites.

Parori, Mystras 231 00, Greece Get Directions | Tel: 2731 081888 | Email: info@kyniskapalace.gr

SUMMER GUIDE

BARS A WITH STARS

thens has plenty of places for a bit of drinking and socializing under the night sky. Bios (84 Pireos) boasts a fantastic view of the Acropolis at night, and regular sets by local DJs ensure this is a more high-tempo experience than your average rooftop bar.

Another multi-function venue run by the same arts and culture organization is Romantso (3 Anaxagora), housed in an old printers. It hosts a wide range of club nights in the downstairs venue all year round, but their decadent roof parties, held throughout the summer, are truly special. Latraac (63-65 Leonidou)

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is a skate bowl by day, but after nightfall it becomes a solid party spot, hosting more avant-garde gigs and DJ sets. The all-day cafĂŠ-barmusic venue six d.o.g.s (6-8 Avramiotou) has long been a staple of Athens nightlife and the courtyard bar is a true urban oasis. You can enjoy beers and cocktails by candlelight beneath the trees and tall buildings that surround the space.

If you want to keep the party going, the adjoining indoor venue regularly hosts some of the biggest names in dance music and is a dependable destination every weekend. – A.K.

BIOS

tip

© PERIKLES MERAKOS

The sun’s gone down, and you’re feeling cooler, but don’t forget to take in plenty of water along with your other liquids; your body will thank you the next day.

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A CELESTIAL SHOW

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s you step outside through a tiny door in the dome of the National Observatory, you see the glittering nighttime lights of Athens spread out before you.

The Parthenon, illuminated, seems to hover in front of you and, above it all, the sky is full of stars. It’s honestly hard to decide whether to look up or down. You’re standing on the Sinas Building, a structure originally built to measure local time, on the Hill of the Nymphs. “At midday, the time ball would fall,” says our guide, astrophysicist Dimitrios Tsimpidas, “signalling the city’s cathedral to ring its bells, letting all of Athens know that it was noon.” The walk up 152

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to the observatory from Thiseio is well worth the effort; there’s so much to see and learn on the observatory’s guided tours, including the history of the building, which was designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen in 1842. It is cruciform in shape; each of the ground-floor rooms (which house rare books and instruments) indicates a cardinal direction. In 1874, Julius Schmidt used the observatory telescope to create the first-ever detailed map of the moon. Tours also include the late-19th century Doridis telescope, standing on its own further up the hill, with which you can observe the constellations visible on any given night. – P.B.K.

info

National Observatory of Athens, Hill of the Nymphs, Tel. (+30) 210.349.0000.

Guided tours in English every Wed, Fri and Sat at 20:00.

restaurant

CREATIVE CONTEMPORARY AND CONSTANTLY EVOLVING GREEK CUISINE BY THE AWARD-WINNING CHEF ALEXANDROS KARDASIS

athiri

Bib Gourmand 2019 by Michelin guide

Location: 15, Plataion str, Kerameikos, Athens, in an old neoclassical home with its full-of-green yard.

Reservations & special meals: (+30) 210 3462983 reservations@athirirestaurant.gr

An emotional journey into the tastes and scents of the Greek land; into memories awaken by the Greek tradition; the waterfalls of Samothraki, the feasts of Ikaria, the olive groves of the Peloponnese, the sunsets of Santorini…but through the creative contemporary as well as deeply subversive approach by the award-winning chef Alexandros Kardasis.

Alexandros Kardasis’s cuisine, for 15 years now at Athiri, is an on-going search for and care in selecting the best raw materials and greek wines from producers from all over Greece. Menu changes often depending on the season and the time of year as well as the exploration of new products combined with Chef’s inspiration and creativity.

At Athiri you will discover Greek rare local grape varieties and new producers, but you will also find classic quality wines of the Greek vineyard.

A stroll through the historical centre might as well take you to Athenians’ favourite street food joint, Falafellas. Their homemade, always fresh falafels are prepared daily in their tiny shop in 51 Aiolou str., have created hundreds of fans who patiently wait in line to enjoy falafel at its best. Giant, or pocket size, spicy or not, you’ll definitely love it.

51 Aiolou str Athens • Mon-Sat 11:00-0:00 • Sunday closed • Τ 00302103239809

SUMMER GUIDE

GET OUT OF TOWN THE EPIDAURUS A SAGA

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trip to Epidaurus has it all: good food, beautiful trails, flowery courtyards, a world-renowned ancient theater and a swim in the sea above a sunken city. Even if you don’t get the chance to catch one of the performances in the Athens and Epidaurus Festival, which takes place every summer, a visit to the most well-preserved ancient Greek theater is an experience unlike any other. Built around 340-330 BC, it hosted music, singing and

theater performances dedicated to the god Asclepius. Two and a half thousand years passed in silence before the excavations which brought it back to life began in 1881. The open air theater is famous for its scale (12,000 seats), elegance and design, as well as for perfect sight lines to the stage and for its acoustics. Stand in the center of the orchestra, ask a friend to climb up to the top row of the seating and then exhale loudly or tear a sheet of paper: you will

From wild mountains to underwater cities, we select the four best summer escapes – each possible in a day trip from Athens. er of Epidaurus and the ancient Acropolis. From the small theater, it’s an easy trek down to Kalymnios Beach, where you can swim over the “sunken city.” A section of the ancient city, now submerged, is still visible here. Make sure to wear protective footwear (there are sea urchins) and bring a mask and snorkel to explore underwater Mycenaean tombs and fortifications.

Afterwards, make your way to the restaurant Mouria for homemade food in a courtyard by the sea. For

the last 60 years, this charming restaurant has been a favorite of the Epidaurus Festival’s audience and artists alike; Irene Papas, Helen Mirren, Ethan Hawke and Luciano Pavarotti have all eaten here. – A.T.

info

• The Ancient Theater of Epidaurus is about 140km from Athens.

• The archaeological site is open daily 8:00-20:00. • Mouria: Tel. (+30) 27530.412.18

© PERIKLES MERAKOS

hear them perfectly. The theater is only one part of the Asclepeion archaeological site, which boasts the remains of the oldest-known medical center. Exploring the ruined buildings is exhilarating. If you’re in the mood for a hike, you’ll find a trail map at the entrance to the theater. The harbor of Ancient Epidaurus is close by; a 2km trail begins here, taking you through the ancient ruins and the orange and olive groves of the Nissi peninsula. You’ll pass the Little Theat-

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SUMMER GUIDE

PARADISE MOUNTAIN

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ou can hear the water as soon as you start down the path. Minutes later, a paradisiacal place appears between the trees: dragonflies and swallows flit through the air above a shoulder-deep pool of cool water fed by twin waterfalls and surrounded by pink oleanders and green shrubs. This is one of Athens’ best-kept secrets, unknown even to most locals, and it’s just a half-hour drive from the city center, on the slopes of Mt Penteli. In August, when the sea is warm and the beaches are packed with people, the Valanari Waterfall (Google Maps calls it “Waterfall Ntrafi”) provides the perfect alternative, and an exciting adventure for families. Pack a picnic (take care not to leave any trash behind) or get back in your rented car and drive another 25 minutes to Farmamoo (Dionysiou, Nea Makri, Tel. (+30) 694.663.6148). Home to horses, cats and dogs, bunnies, chickens, geese and a donkey, this organic farm offers allotments for rent, where Athenian families can grow their own vegetables. They also have a playground, pony-riding facilities and an excellent taverna, serving traditional dishes made with the farm’s own fresh produce. – P.B.K.

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SUMMER GUIDE

THE NATURAL CHOICE

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ou’ll be there before you know it.

The village of Steni, only 110km from Athens on the island of Evia (accessible by bridge), is a popular day-trip destination for nature lovers.

It’s particularly well known for its cool climate and for the verdant landscape that pleases the eye and fills up the lungs with cool fresh air. Walk along the narrow lanes, eat meat roasted on the spit at its celebrated tavernas (a notable favorite

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is Kissos, Tel. (+30) 22280.512.26), fill up your water bottles at Yiatros spring, and buy local handmade pasta, honey, and mountain herbs produced or gathered by the women of the village. Here, on the slopes of Mt Dirfy, you’re in the heart of mushroom country. There are home-grown mushrooms and a range of mushroom products for sale at Manitaropoleio (Tel. (+30) 22280.713.00) in the nearby village of Katheni. Keep an ear out for one of the musical events organized at the Mousiko Pandocheio (Tel. (+30) 22280.512.02, www.mousikopandoxeio.gr). If, on the other hand, you’re interested in outdoor action or adventure, you can go hiking along the signposted mountain paths on Mt Dirfy

and Mt Xirovouni. If you have climbing experience, the ascent to Delfi Peak, the summit of Mt Dirfy, is a rewarding challenge. Alternatively, you can climb Karaouli Rock, go mountain biking or dirt biking on forest paths, or have a picnic on the river bank. Whatever you decide to do, don’t miss the drive along the 7km route from the village of Steni that leads up to the mountain pass of Dirfy, where you can see the Gulf of Evia on one side of the road and the Aegean Sea on the other. This is also where you’ll spot the start of the 2-3km-long dirt road that leads to the Michalis Nikolaou mountain refuge (Tel. (+30) 22210.256.55), right below the spectacular alpine summit. – O.C.

© PERIKLES MERAKOS

SUMMER GUIDE

DIVINE GATEWAY

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he picturesque sunset as seen from the Temple of Poseidon on Cape Sounio might be the reason that most people come here, to the southernmost ancient fortress of Attica but there’s much more in the area that merits your attention. Go up to the temple early, and then carry on to Sounio National Park. The vegetation is not particularly dense, consisting mostly of low bushes, brushwood and pine trees.

You’ll be able to spot the ancient shafts

from which miners extracted metal ore, the washbasins where they cleaned it, and the baths they used, all of which were brought to light during archaeological excavations, and which bear witness to the riches that the earth once held in this area. The park is also home to “Chaos,” a large crater that some believe was caused by the collapse of a cave roof – an impressive sight. Walk further to see the remains of the ancient settlement of Thoriko, the site of the oldest ancient theater in Greece, dating from the 6th century BC. On the way back to Sounio, take a swim at the beach below the archaeological site, where the Aegeon Beach Hotel is situated. (€10 for a beach umbrella and two sun loungers).

At the taverna Thodoros and Eleni, the signature dish is mussels cooked in different ways. They use prime ingredients and each dish is served in generous portions (Legrenon Avenue, Tel. (+30) 22920.519.36). If you have time, and if you’re in the mood for one more dip on the way back to Athens, take a left turn off the main coastal road as soon as you see the sign “Property of KAPE” and follow the dirt road to the parking lot. To access this beach you need to climb down a series of longish steps, but it’s well worth the effort. In fact, Legrena is one of the most popular beaches of Attica, but in the late afternoon, it’s a lot quieter. – P.L.

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