GREECE IS | ATHENS | WINTER 2018-2019 by GREECE IS

EXPERIENCE CULTURE, GASTRONOMY & MORE

AT H E N S

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ISSN: 2529-041X

ISSUE #36 | WINTER 2018-19

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W E L C O ME

Locals lead us to secret gems, we meet the city’s bright new things and we explore what’s driving Athens’ creative and cultural resurgence.

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Your guide to the essential Athens highlights. Plus, micro hotels, virtual adventures and the best street food and sweet treats in town.

We go on a historical journey through King Otto’s Greece, explore archaeological sites and meet exotic pets kept by the ancient Greeks and Romans.

A look at the places that shape the city: Athens’ modernist buildings, its co-working spaces and its contemporary art galleries.

E XPE RIE NC E

DIS COVER

FOCUS

WELCOME

ATHENS ASCENDING Welcome to a city whose exciting future may be just as remarkable as its storied past. B Y G I O R G O S T S I R O S / E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F, G R E E C E I S

Good news first: a little before the year comes to an end, Athens is expected to break the record of 5.2 million international visitors. By New Year’s Day, the Athens International Airport will have completed five years of continuous increase in passenger activity. Top category hotels, especially those located in the city center, can consistently boast of full occupancy. New and future hotel investments keep those journalists covering the tourism industry well occupied. New openings in the entertainment, food, and commercial sectors are drawing the attention of the public. The French newspaper Le Figaro has added its own voice to an international mass media that has been singing Athens’ praises, concluding that “winter really suits the city.” The new president of the Athens-Attica & Argosaronic Hotel Association Labrini Karanasiou-Zoulovits notes that “the city has extended its tourist season; it now also remains open during the winter months, and is no longer the Athens we used to know.” The municipal authorities have announced, with well-deserved pride, that Athens was declared the winner of this year’s European Capital of Innovation Award, funded by the EU research and innovation program Horizon 2020, for initiatives such as the reopening of the Municipal Market of Kypseli, and the campaign “This is Athens,” during which volunteers were invited to talk to tourists about the city’s past and present. Most importantly, 95% of those who visit the city declare that they would recommend it to friends and relatives as a holiday destination (14th Tourist Satisfaction Survey & Report on the Performance of the Athens

Hotel Sector, performed by GBR Consulting). And now for the not-so-good news: the great majority of visitors choose Athens as a leisure and holiday destination, which makes perfect sense, but the lucrative industry centered around conferences, conventions and trade exhibitions still lags far behind. Most visitors visit the Acropolis and its museum, which is to be expected, yet other cultural gems of the city, including the National Archaeological Museum, have not been developed sufficiently as landmark tourist attractions. The friendly attitude of local residents is regarded as one of Athens’ most important assets (always according to GBR’s report), yet the city’s public spaces suffer from poor standards of cleanliness and general maintenance, a lack of pedestrianized areas and a dearth of public signage in English. Yet another overall observation is that fewer than half of visitors are aware that, if they’re in Athens, they’re within an hour’s reach of a superb beach, an enchanting island, or a verdant mountain. It seems clear that Athens still has some distance to go before it has established itself as a city break destination offering excellent infrastructure and quality service, a multitude of options throughout the 12 months of the year, and a high ratio of value for money, at least in comparison with competitor cities such as Istanbul and Barcelona. And yet, the steady upward progress evinced in the past years, achieved under particularly adverse conditions, is a sign that this is something the city is quite capable of attaining.

The Acropolis is always the star, but nearly any place you visit in Athens will add to your storehouse of fond memories. AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

grecotel.com

F U L L O F A R T, G L A M O U R A N D G E N U I N E H O S P I TA L I T Y Grecotel Pallas Athena, this new avant-garde boutique hotel in downtown Athens, is the place where luxury and hospitality create a new experience: an Art Boutique hotel for exquisite city living. This 5-star Luxury Hotel is ideally located in the historic center of the city, next to the Athens Town Hall and just a short walk from most of the major sights and attractions of the capital, including the Acropolis, the new Acropolis Museum, and the district of Plaka, the city’s oldest neighborhood, as well as many of Athens’ most famous nightlife venues.

HIGHLIGHTS A unique location in the city center, near the Acropolis Museum and all other major museums and city attractions. Near the Metro stations of Omonia and Monastiraki, with direct access to Line 3, which runs from-to Athens International Airport. • 63 rooms and suites with unique art elements or original wall paintings and exhibits. • A collection of family rooms - a real thrill for your little ones. •

Loft Suites located on the top floor boast the quintessential atmosphere of a luxurious Athenian apartment, with spectacular city views. • Dining hall and lounge area with terrace overlooking Kotzia Square. • Fitness Room. • Free Wi-Fi in all public areas and hotel rooms. •

BEST HOTEL BREAKFAST The best way to start your day is with an extensive breakfast buffet offering a wide choice of hot and cold dishes, a variety of croissants and cakes, hot bread, jams, Cretan honey, cereals, hot omelets, homemade pies, fresh fruits, salads, pastries, fresh juices and coffee. Don’t miss the unique “Cretan corner” with traditional products such as “dakos,” “apaki,” “mizithropitakia” and many other delicacies.

ADVERTORIAL

FINE-DINING Experience delicious meals in the elegant dining-room and lounge bar. An ideal venue where you can sit back and enjoy great food in a relaxing environment is located on the first floor. • A unique gourmet culinary experience awaits you, complete with sumptuous interpretations of the flavors of Greece in traditional comfort food dishes with international flair! • Create and customize your own fine-dining experience within the comfort and convenience of your room or suite, prepared and served by our staff. • •

GRECOTEL PALLAS ATHENA BOUTIQUE HOTEL 65, Athinas & Likourgou, Athens, Greece T. (+30) 210.325.0900 grecotelpallasathena.com

CONTENTS G R E E C E I S - I S S U E # 3 6 AT H E N S , W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 - 2 0 19 E D I T I O N

16. THE COOL CHART City influencers and their favorite spots. 20. AGENDA Highlights of the city’s vibrant cultural scene. 26. CHINESE ELEGANCE An amazing temporary exhibition at the Acropolis Museum. 30. FUTURE CLASSICS The city’s most talked-about new arrivals. 40. THE ATHENS BRIEF The changing face of the City of Gods.

Experience 48. CITY BREAK Our 72-hour itinerary hits all the highlights. 64. IT’S A SIN If you’re craving chocolate, this is where to go. 70. MAKE MINE TO GO Athens’ street food scene is going from strength to strength. 76. PETITE PALACES A look at the city’s newest and hottest boutique hotels. 82. INDOOR FUN

ON THE COVER: Detail from “Untitled,” Acrylic on canvas (40X50cm), by Diamantis Aidinis.

From pinball machines to virtual reality, there’s always something to make you happy when it rains. ISSN: 2529-041X

PUBLISHED BY:

Exerevnitis-Explorer S.A. Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos, Athens, 18547, Greece Tel. (+30) 210.480.8000 Fax (+30) 210.480.8202

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Giorgos Tsiros (editor@greece-is.com) COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR:

Natassa Bouterakou

86. ABOVE THE CLOUDS A refreshing excursion to Mt Parnitha.

19th-century Greece are still relevant.

90. TAKE THE STAGE Lifting the curtain on the city’s most impressive venues.

A visit to the oft-overlooked National Historic Museum.

Discover

100. THE ESSENTIALS Archaeological sites and museums at a glance. 108. ANCIENT MENAGERIE Museum exhibits reveal the deep connection ancient Greeks had with the animal kingdom. 114. LOVELY PARADOX French writer Edmond About’s observations from COMMERCIAL INQUIRIES:

Tel. (+30) 210.480.8227 Fax (+30) 210.480.8228 E-mails: sales@greece-is.com emporiko@kathimerini.gr

PUBLIC RELATIONS:

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122. SPIRIT OF THE PAST

Focus 128. MODERNIST GEMS Mid-20th century landmarks that signaled a new era for Athens. 140. LET’S WORK Athens as a destination for digital nomads and startuppers 150. THE ART SCENE Prominent gallery owners talk about the city’s creative side. GREECE IS – ATHENS

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WELCOME INSIDERS

THE COOL CHART Six city influencers recommend some of their favorite spots. 1

DRINK AND SOCIALIZE

GUILTY PLEASURE

WHERE TO GO ON A RAINY DAY

A GOOD SHOPPING TIP

A HIDDEN GEM

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GABRIELLA TRIANTAFYLLIS

ALEXANDROS GKIKOPOULOS

Catch up with friends and colleagues after work at the Japanese pub BIRDMAN (2 Skoufou & 35 Voulis). The yakitori is scrumptious and the cocktails are to die for. There are also over 40 whiskeys to choose from.

THE NEW ROOFTOP WINTER BAR AT BIOS (84 PIREOS). THE BEST VIEW OF ATHENS, NOW UNDER COVER, WITH DRINKS, MUSIC AND… MEATBALLS FROM THE TAVERNA ON THE FIRST FLOOR.

BABA AU RUM (6 Klitiou), where you can taste unique rums from Jamaica and lots of signature rum-based cocktails.

ANYTHING CREAM-FILLED AT BAKEHOUSE QUEEN BEE (45 PATRIARCHOU IOAKEIM), COMBINED WITH A DOUBLE CAPPUCCINO AND A MAGAZINE. THEN CANCEL EVERYTHING AND STAY FOR DINNER AS WELL.

The loukoumades from KTISTAKIS (59 Sokratous). Delicious fried dough balls soaked in a honey syrup, a veritable explosion of flavor. One serving is never enough.

SAN FRANCISCO SANDWICH SHOP (99 KERAMIKOU) IN KERAMEIKOS, FOR LATE MUNCHIES AND GREAT MUSIC.

Lazy brunch with a book at NEW HOTEL (16 Filellinon, Syntagma), then a visit to FRISSIRAS MUSEUM (3 & 7 Monis Asteriou) around the corner to see its contemporary painting collection.

A VISIT TO THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM (15 DIONYSIOU AREOPAGITOU) IN THE MORNING, A MOVIE AT A CITY-CENTER CINEMA IN THE EVENING AND A LIQUEUR AT BRETTOS (41 KIDATHINEON) IN BETWEEN.

I would take refuge at the MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART (12 Dipilou).

TASTEFUL MEMORABILIA, TRAVEL BOOKS AND EVERYTHING A GLOBETROTTER NEEDS AT FLÂNEUR SOUVENIRS & SUPPLIES (1 FLESSA) IN PLAKA.

The shop at THE BENAKI MUSEUM - 138 PIREOS ST. (138 Pireos) for excellent books, wonderful jewelry and the finest museum merchandise in Greece.

ORFANIDIS (27 KOLOKOTRONI) IS A BOUTIQUE WITH A UNIQUE CHARACTER THAT OFFERS HIGH-QUALITY CLOTHES FROM CONTEMPORARY DESIGNERS. IT’S MINIMALIST DESIGN, COMFORTABLE BUT CHIC.

The free mobile app WALK THE WALL ATHENS (developed by archaeologists) locates remains of the city’s ancient wall and uses them as starting points for a tour of the city center. (dipylon.org)

FOR SEAFOOD DELIGHTS, PEZOULAS TAVERNA (11 PISISTRATOU, KALLITHEA) BEHIND THE SNFCC. BE SURE TO TRY THE FAVA WITH SMOKED EEL.

TSIN TSIN (6 Kiafas) is a bar where you can always dance if you’re in the mood. It serves quality drinks, has a cosmopolitan clientele and the music is uplifting.

KIRIAKOS SPIROU

WRITER, CURATOR AND FOUNDING EDITOR OF CONTEMPORARY ART GUIDE UND. ATHENS und-athens.com

DIRECTOR OF PROGRAMMING & PRODUCTION, SNFCC snfcc.org

BARTENDER

WELCOME INSIDERS

IOANNA KOURBELA

LEON OF ATHENS

YOULIKA SKAFIDA

A GLASS OF WINE OR TWO AT MATERIA PRIMA (68 FALIROU) UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF OWNER MICHALIS PAPATSIMPAS.

I love MAVRO PROVATO (“Black Sheep”) in Pangrati (31 Arrianou) for its pure ingredients and very good value for money.

IT’S ALWAYS A FAIRYTALE AT NOEL (KOLOKOTRONI 59B). I LOVE TO STROLL THERE FROM NEARBY AGHIAS EIRINI SQUARE WITH MY FRIENDS.

At midday, margaritas and Mexican finger food at TAQUERIA MAYA (10 Petraki).

FOR THE BEST CRÊPES IN ATHENS, GO TO KREPELATEION (59 KIFISIAS).

I have a sweet tooth, so I love NANCY’S SWEET HOME (1 Plateia Iroon) in Psyrri. It’s right at the center of a neighborhood that’s charming all year round.

GRAB A SMALL TABLE AT THE TRADITIONAL RACHATI TAVERNA (93 MARINOU ANTYPA) IN ILIOUPOLI AND SAVOR THE CRETAN CUISINE.

A trip to the outstanding MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART (4 Neofytou Douka) to view the exhibits before relaxing at the café in the atrium.

TO STEKI TOU ILIA (5 EPTAHALKOU) HAS BRILLIANT LAMB CHOPS AND YOU CAN WATCH THE METRO TRAINS PASS BY BELOW.

For special gifts, make your way to YANNI GALLERY (44 Voulis) and choose from among the sculptural creations of Yanni Souvatzoglou.

MOTORCYCLE APPAREL, BAGS AND OTHER ACCESSORIES AT THE REAL INTELLECTUALS (9 PALLADOS) IN PSYRRI.

Stroll around the center of Kifissia, especially along KYRIAZI STREET, for boutique shopping and cute cafés.

A WALK IN THE FOOTHILLS OF MOUNT HYMETTUS, FOLLOWED BY A BOWL OF HOT SOUP AT CAFÉ-EATERY KALOPOULA IN KAISARIANI.

In the building at 2 KARAGIORGI SERVIAS, take the elevator up to the 9th floor. There you’ll find a snack bar with no name, offering delicious beef patties and a stunning view of Athens.

I LOVE THE SMALL BAR ARCHÁNGELOS (1 KIMONOS). IT ONLY PLAYS GREEK MUSIC AND YOU’LL NEVER FIND A COMMON THREAD AMONG THE CLIENTELE, HOWEVER HARD YOU TRY.

FASHION DESIGNER ioannakourbela.com

DRINK AND SOCIALIZE

GUILTY PLEASURE

WHERE TO GO ON A RAINY DAY

A GOOD SHOPPING TIP

A HIDDEN GEM

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SINGER-SONGWRITER leonofathens.com

ACTRESS

WELCOME AGENDA

GET IT IN THE DIARY

Don’t miss this season’s best exhibitions and events BY X E N I A GEORGI A DOU

04052019

PERSONAL PHOTOGRAPHS

Little has survived of the work of the British photographer Alexander Lamont Henderson, except for a series of photos taken over the course of several trips he made to the Mediterranean (1884-1906). A selection of photographs from his short stay in Greece in 1904 are currently on show at the Benaki Museum. Unusually, given the practices common during his lifetime, Henderson recorded not only the monuments and archaeological sites of Athens, but also scenes from daily city life, images of the port of Piraeus and the interior of the Royal Palace. • “Alexander Lamont Henderson: 1904 Holiday Snaps,” Ghika Gallery, 3 Kriezotou, benaki.gr (Metro: Syntagma)

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Thirteen artists who live and work outside of large urban centers have contributed to the new temporary exhibition at the A. Antonopoulou Art Gallery. The rural landscape does not dominate their pictorial vision as much as it affects the way they think and create; they feel freer when shielded from the suffocating rhythms of city life. The exhibition includes photographs, installations, paintings and sculptures featuring a variety of techniques and materials connected to the natural environment. Themes include questions about life and the value of time. • “The Ruralists,” A. Antonopoulou Art Gallery, 20 Aristophanous, aaart. gr (Metro: Thiseio/Monastiraki)

07022019 COURTESY THE ARTIST AND FONDAZIONE MERZ. PHOTOGRAPH: ©RENATO GHIAZZA

THE LEADING LADY OF ARTE POVERA

Marisa Merz is one of the leading figures of Arte Povera. The Italian artist is also the only female protagonist of this radical art movement. She became famous for the unusual materials she employs (including knitting needles, aluminum sheets and wax and copper wire) and for using her own private spaces as her main source of inspiration. The Bernier-Eliades Gallery pays tribute to the 92-year-old artist by exhibiting her paintings and sculptures, many of which featured in a recent retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. • “Marisa Merz,” Bernier-Eliades Gallery, 11 Eptachalkou, Thiseio, bernier-eliades.gr (Metro: Thiseio) 20

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AWAY FROM THE CITY

03022019 PORTRAITS OF GREEK WOMEN

The female form has been a key theme in art since antiquity. A new temporary exhibition at the Theocharakis Foundation explores how women have been represented in Greek art over the last two centuries. Eightyfive outstanding portraits from the collections of the National Gallery trace the evolving roles of women in society, highlighting at the same time the most important artistic trends in modern Greek painting. The works of Konstantinos Parthenis, Yannis Tsarouchis, Yiannis Moralis and Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika are featured among those of several others. • “Scent of a Woman in Greek Painting,” B & M Theocharakis Foundation for Music and the Fine Arts, 9 Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Merlin, thf.gr (Metro: Syntagma)

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WELCOME AGENDA

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THE GENIUS OF THE ITALIAN RENAISSANCE

To mark the 500th anniversary of the death of painter, inventor, engineer, architect, sculptor and mathematician Leonardo da Vinci, Athens is hosting an exhibition that showcases, through a unique audiovisual experience, the entire spectrum of achievements made by this Renaissance genius. Created through a collaboration between the Museo Leonardo da Vinci in Rome and the Lumiere Technology Institute in Paris, the exhibition includes interactive items, copies of his famous codices, 75 models of his inventions, and a scientific analysis of and presentation on the enigmatic Mona Lisa. • “Leonardo da Vinci: 500 Years of Genius,” Old OSY bus depot, Pireos & Ermou, Gazi, leonardodavinci.gr

18012019 THE ART OF THE BOOK

Handmade books created by artists using rare types of paper or presented in unconventional forms, such as book-sculptures, as well as other unique works of applied art compose the main body of this new temporary exhibition at the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation. Contemporary Greek artists explore a book’s possible aesthetic ramifications and pay homage to the process of writing and the pleasure of reading. The exhibition is part of the Athens 2018 World Book Capital events program organized by the Municipality of Athens. • “Black in White,” Historical Archives of the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation, 2 Doridos & 14 Eirinis Avenue, Tavros, piop.gr (Metro: Petralona; Tavros) 22

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CONTEMPORARY READINGS

The art of Matthew Palladino focuses on a liberal reading of ancient symbols and themes, and is created using artisan craft skills, such as painting by hand, as well as employing technologically advanced techniques, such as 3D printing. The exhibition, which includes six new relief sculptures reminiscent of ancient friezes, is one of the activities organized this winter at the Parnassos Literary Society by the Mykonos-based Dio Horia art gallery. • “Ouroboros,” Parnassos Literary Society, 8 Aghiou Georgiou Karytsi Square, lsparnas. gr, diohoria.com (Metro: Panepistimio)

30042019 LIFE IN ANCIENT CRETE

Three powerful cities of ancient Crete – Aptera, Eleftherna and Knossos – are revealed in all their glory. Five hundred ancient artifacts – new and old finds from archaeological excavations – illustrate the way of life in these glorious urban centers of the past. The narrative thread of the exhibition begins with the founding of these cities and follows their journey through prosperity to the events that led to their abandonment or final destruction. • “Crete. Emerging Cities: Aptera, Eleftherna, Knossos. Three Ancient Cities Revived,” Museum of Cycladic Art, 4 Neofytou Douka, Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Irodotou, cycladic.gr (Metro: Evangelismos) AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

WELCOME AGENDA

20012019 NEW TENANTS

Pending its full reopening, the National Museum of Contemporary Art is presenting a selection of works acquired over the last two years. Referencing humanity and the fields of human activity, the stagnation of daily reality, our engagement with the past, the way we confront life and our contact with death and mortality, these works by 22 artists enrich the museum’s permanent collections and highlight new directions and new topics for contemporary art. • “New Acquisitions,” National Museum of Contemporary Art, Kallirrois Avenue & Amvrosiou Frantzi, emst.gr (Metro: Syngrou Fix)

28022019

Giorgos Lappas’ “Mappemonde,” one of the most important works of postwar Greek sculpture, dominates the Athens home of the Citronne Gallery. Thirty years have passed since the work was first presented at the São Paulo Biennale and at the Aperto of the 43rd Venice Biennale. The Map of the World is presented as a landmark space of memory. The work springs from the artist’s own personal experiences and voyages while simultaneously giving the impression that it’s recounting the history of humankind. • “Encapsulation-Mappemonde,” Citronne Gallery, 19 Patriarchou Ioakeim, Kolonaki, citronne.com (Metro: Evangelismos/Syntagma)

14012019 A LIFE IN PAINT

In 1879, the Slovenian painter Jurij Šubic visited Athens to talk with architect Ernst Ziller and philhellene archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann about the pictorial themes that would adorn the walls and ceilings of Schliemann’s residence: reproductions of murals from the houses of Pompeii, details of finds from excavations at Mycenae and Troy, and inscriptions of excerpts from Hesiod and Homer. Today, Šubic’s work can be seen on the walls and ceilings of the former Schliemann house, a superb neoclassical mansion hosting the Numismatic Museum of Athens. Museum visitors can currently admire them alongside other works by Šubic at a temporary exhibition organized together with the Slovenian Embassy and the National Picture Gallery of Slovenia. • “Šubic in the Land of Classical Greece,” Numismatic Museum, 12 Panepistimiou, nummus.gr (Metro: Syntagma)

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THE MAP OF THE WORLD

Illustration from the book titled “In the Huilong Hall.” Qing Dynasty (1644-1911)

W ELCO M E M U S T- S E E

CHINESE ELEGANCE The Acropolis Museum’s latest temporary exhibition, “From the Forbidden City: Imperial Apartments of Qianlong,” presents Athens with a new world. BY JOHN LEONA R D

hose familiar with the Acropolis Museum will be accustomed to its fresh and progressive approach to the museum experience. This visit, however, feels even more different than usual. From the moment we enter the museum’s main doors, we’re aware that something special lies ahead. Chinese-style hanging screens and large images of Emperor Qianlong (who ruled from 1735 to 1796) draw us through the ticket hall. Within this building, we’re usually immersed in the mythical and artistic realms of ancient Greece, but now it transports us to a vastly different world: Imperial China during the 18th century. 26

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Running until February 14, 2019, the Qianlong exhibition is truly an experience not to be missed. Inside the spacious galleries, visitors can wander through a grand recreation of the elegance and tranquility characteristic of the Forbidden City in Beijing. With dark red walls, pagoda-topped screens dividing the rooms and enchanting Chinese music in the background, the atmosphere is immediately captivating. The exhibition reproduces the Palace of Many Splendors, in the northwest corner of the Forbidden City, where Qianlong resided prior to his accession to the throne. Information panels and a video display provide historical context and lead visitors on a fascinating

virtual tour through the many delightfully named ceremonial gates (e.g.,The Gateways of Heavenly Purity and Supreme Harmony) one encounters before reaching Qianlong’s apartments. The Forbidden City still dominates the Chinese capital today. Built in 14061420, the palace is an enormous 720,000 sq.m. city-like complex of individual royal residences, containing 9,000 rooms and surrounded by a 10m-high wall and a 52m-wide moat. Qianlong was a greatly respected emperor whose 60-year reign marked the height of China’s final Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Famous for his administrative reforms and the unification of China into a secure, thriving, multi-ethnic

state, Qianlong was also known as an educated devotee of art and literature. Dedicated to Tibetan Buddhism, he spent his days studying holy texts, receiving foreign dignitaries, hosting stylish tea parties, writing poetry, and enjoying musical and dramatic performances. The Athens exhibition displays 154 exquisitely crafted objects from Qianlong’s private apartments, including tapestry portraits, calligraphy albums, porcelain tea sets, painted enamel vases, jewelry crafted to look like the feathers of kingfishers, and elaborately embroidered satin ceremonial robes. The furniture is also impressive: there are three reconstructed throne or reception rooms, complete with cushioned seats, green jade elephants 28

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and standing incense burners. Qianlong’s study is on display, too, with his jade-inlaid desk, a Duan stone inkstand bearing two dragons playing with a pearl, and an ivory, mahogany and goat hair writing brush. The last room illustrates Qianlong’s religious devotion. There are a number of Buddhist symbols on view, as well as a seated silver statue of the Third Dalai Lama, a terrifying six-armed bronze Mahakala figure (guardian deity), and the seated Vajradhara (the ultimate primordial Buddha), whose serene smile mirrors the expression also found in Archaic Greek sculpture. INFO theacropolismuseum.gr

01. The director of the Acropolis Museum, Professor Dimitrios Pandermalis, together with fellow museum colleagues and archaeologists from the Chinese team, unwrapping the portrait of Emperor Qianlong in preparation for exhibition. 02. Portrait of the young Qianlong Emperor in court dress. Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) 03. Portrait of the Qianlong Emperor at an advanced age in court dress. Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) 04. Bronze statuette of Vajradhara Qing Dynasty, Qianlong Reign (1735-1796)

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FUTURE CLASSICS

Discover the latest additions to Athens’ vibrant cultural, craft and culinary scenes. BY GREECE IS TEA M

ALENTES

The Acropolis and the National Museum of Contemporary Art stand on opposite sides of a geographic border separating the Athens of old from its more modern self. And it is right here that architects and interior designers at Alentes are busy crafting contemporary objects out of cement with a classical aesthetic. Don’t underestimate cement: this tough material has the ability to transform simple everyday objects, such as side tables, vases and stools, into highly original sculptural works. Alentes’ open-plan showroom was designed to take full advantage of its location; the objects have been positioned close to the ground, so as not to impede your view towards the five-meter-tall window that overlooks a hidden yard, where, yet again, old meets new. INFO 8 Petmeza, Tel. (+30) 210.899.6222, alentes.com

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SOPHIA – ENJOY THINKING LIVE If you’re searching for special, historically-inspired objects, then this is just the place for you. The group of designers behind Sophia create both functional items and souvenirs, including notebooks, mugs, dishes, bookends and bags. Drawing on classical elements of Greek culture, they create figurines, busts and other works of art, all with a contemporary twist and featuring bright colors. Their new space in Kolonaki, called Sophia – Enjoy Thinking Live, offers the brand’s own items alongside small pieces of furniture, lighting fixtures, candles, books and more. Why not take a seat on their comfortable sofa? You’ll need some time to make up your mind about what to buy. INFO Pindarou 15, Tel (+30) 210.360.6930, sophia.com.gr

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THE THREAD TO LIGHT

A FUTURE PERFECT & FRIENDS

A Future Perfect founders Katerina Grigoropoulou and Evi Sougkara draw on their shared architectural background to create unique pieces inspired by urbanism, including concrete coasters etched with sections of the Athens street plan. Another source of inspiration is the Greek summer, from which they take archetypal images, like an octopus drying in the sun or a swimmer taking a dive, and transform them into abstract patterns, prints or objects. After their homeware, stationery, decorative items, accessories and jewelry appeared in exhibitions and at over 50 concept stores and galleries around the world, they opened their own shop on Praxitelous. A Future Perfect & Friends features the brand’s own products alongside a carefully curated selection of clothes and products from Greek and international brands.

It was a life-saving gift. Ariadne’s thread (“mitos”) enabled her beloved Theseus to navigate back out of the Labyrinth to the liberating light. In the hands (and clever mind) of jewelry designer Polina Ellis, the mythical symbol takes on a purely symmetric form and becomes the Mitos charm for 2019. Cord meets either silver or 10K gold in bracelets and necklaces, with both metals representing the very end of the journey toward light, be it personal or universal. INFO polinaellis.com

INFO 23 Praxitelous, Tel. (+30) 697.430.4656, afutureperfect.gr

HOMCORE This brightly-lit and minimally decorated space in Syntagma sells CDs and vinyl records, as well as synthesizers and other musical equipment. Here, recordings aren’t classified according to musical genre. Instead, they’re positioned to stand out individually, arranged upon discreet shelves on the walls, like paintings. Homcore is the coziest record shop in town – with sofas to lounge on while you listen. It’s also a showcase for what owner Leon Segkas calls his own “prospective record collection,” with carefully-selected albums covering genres from psychedelic rock to techno, English postpunk, ambient and jazz, and whose catalogue numbers he knows by heart. INFO 38 Voulis, Tel. (+30) 215.515.9757, homcore.com

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KYPSELI MUNICIPAL MARKET OLYMPIA MUNICIPAL MUSIC THEATRE MARIA CALLAS A jewel in Athens’ cultural crown has reopened with a new focus and a new lease on life. The Olympia hosted the Greek National Opera for more than 70 years, until the latter’s recent move to a modern, state-of-the-art home at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center in Kallithea. Today, the historic venue on Akadimias has been lovingly restored to its former glory and reborn as the Olympia Municipal Music Theatre Maria Callas, offering period elegance and a vibrant program of musical theater right in the center of town. Look out for regular free events and the “Christmas in Athens” series of festive concerts, theatrical performances and family shows. INFO 59 Akadimias, Tel. (+30) 210.528.4800

In Greek, Kypseli means “beehive.” This rapidly changing neighborhood is now home to the first social enterprise market in Greece, which has generated quite a buzz since opening its doors in October 2018. The building that houses it dates from 1935 and was once home to the old municipal market, before it closed down years ago. Reborn, it now belongs to everyone. Kypseli Municipal Market has become a meeting point for old and new residents and offers exciting tastes from small-scale food producers across Greece, silk printing workshops and a wide-ranging program of events, from children’s puppet theater to brunch laid on by well-known chefs. INFO 42 Fokionos Negri, athens.impacthub.net/en

A myriad of tiny faces – their expressions as enthralling as if they were real – look back at you as you walk around the room. Some are frozen in activity, while others seem to beg for a hand to bring them back to life. Puppet theater is an ancient, global tradition - and it’s not just for kids. Entering the exhibition “Theater at Your Fingertips” at Workshop Mairivi, you’ll realize at once that these traditional puppets, which are displayed in innovative ways, are works of art. The exhibition is partly interactive; you’re allowed to touch some of the objects and literally pull some strings. If you’re lucky, you might also catch a show.

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INFO 33 Deligiorgi, Tel. (+30)

210.522.2181, mairivi.gr, open every Thu,14:00-18:00, and by appointment.

WORKSHOP MAIRIVI PUPPET THEATER

POLINA ELLIS jewellery signifies inner connections and give us insights into who we truly are. POLINA ELLIS designs are about connecting our origins to our destination, unearthing old roots and exploring new beginnings. In the process, they help us identify our inner.

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Polina’s academic studies and subsequent career as an archeologist have played a pivotal role in her designs. Her intimacy with the cause and effect of a civilization’s greatness allows her to transfuse the primeval symbolism that’s inherent in ancient art forms to contemporary, innovative designs. A study in austerity and bold simplicity, Polina‘s core design approach is clean, devoid of the unnecessary and embracing the pure. Her jewellery communicates strength and sensitivity. Each piece exhibits dynamism by subtraction.

POLINA ELLIS designs embrace universal truths, becoming an intrinsic part of both men and women and empowering them to connect to their own uniqueness. POLINA ELLIS signature collections such as Antithesis, Tethrippon, Dorian represent a unique style, pairing strong lines with clean forms. Linear austerity meets striking elegance. For her 18 kt gold fine jewellery the earthy color of raw white gold with a matte surface fully represents the desire for understated luxury that fits POLINA ELLIS creations have been featured in international top magazines and publications, jewellery and cultural exhibitions and fairs worldwide. They are sold in select retailers all over Greece and selected stores in Europe. POLINA ELLIS online interface offering a unique luxury shopping experience with options to customize.

ADVERTORIAL www.polinaellis.com Facebook: PolinaEllisJewellery Insta: polinaellisjewellery Photographer: Yiorgos Kaplanidis

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FRATER & SOROR

Hip Pangrati has just gotten its first gin bar. In an industrial space infused with color and vibrancy thanks to original art pieces and a slew of houseplants, Frater & Soror’s skilled bartenders go the extra mile to make every drink special. A wide range of gins, and of tonics – from sweet and aromatic to dry or herby – are served with ice carved fresh on the spot. The establishment opens early in the day with great specialty coffees and offers an unusual all-day menu. The basement area has been done up in a completely different style; a large open section showcases the kitchen of the small restaurant Phi Beta Kappa, headed by Dimos Balopoulos, who produces complex flavors and clever dishes. INFO 6 Amynta, Proskopon Square, Pangrati, Tel. (+30) 210.721.3720

THE RABBIT PUNCH Named after an illegal boxing blow, this bright and youthful space in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Pangrati offers a more welcome kind of jolt. The Rabbit Punch is a new venture from the team of award-winning baristas behind Thiseio’s much-loved The Underdog. In a perfect blend of alcohol and cafeine, the coffee cocktails on their menu are just what you need to keep going after a long day. We enjoyed the Coffee Negroni and the Espresso Mar-tiki. Of course, the coffee of the non-alcoholic variety here is just as polished. The team roasts beans from select farms in Brazil, Ethiopia, Colombia, Panama and Guatemala, and masters every kind of brew you would expect from a great third-wave coffee joint. Food is served all day (brunch from 10:00 to 16:00, and assorted bar food from 12:00 to 00:00). INFO 40 Effranoros, Pangrati, Tel. (+30) 210.756.7840 36

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ADVERTORIAL

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1, Filomousou Etaireias sq. 10558 Plaka - Athens, Greece Tel: +30 210 7011108 E-mail: info@7foodsins.com Web: www.7foodsins.com

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BIRDMAN The overall atmosphere of yakitori bar Birdman would be “New York dive bar,” if it weren’t so stylish, with African disco and jazz music, Japanese-style decor and other whimsical details that lend the space an exotic air. The food isn’t the usual bar fare, it’s enviably fine cuisine. The yakitori chicken skewers, for example, are made with chicken raised especially for Birdman on a small farm in Crete. Japanese chef Takaaki Otsuka serves incredible beef nigiri made with Wagyu beef. Natural wines and premium spirits feature on the drinks menu. Doors (it has two entrances) open at 18:00 and the tall stools at the bar are fully occupied by 18:20. INFO Birdman, 2 Skoufou, Syntagma, Tel. (+30) 210.321.2800

BUÑUEL UPTEMPO BISTRO

A woman with a razor blade raised ominously towards her eyeball does, in fact, stare down over Buñuel Uptempo Bistro, but apart from this, everything else about this place is designed to please, from the carved wooden antique furniture to the ever-changing seasonal dishes and exquisitely presented cocktails. Cult cinema fans will, of course, recognize the iconic image from the surrealist masterpiece “Un Chien Andalou,” a collaboration between artist Salvador Dalí and director Luis Buñuel. The rest of the décor comes from some indistinguishable time period in the near-distant past and somewhere in the Mediterranean. But this pleasantly hazy fusion of elusive influences was exactly what chef and co-owner Antonis Stamatiadis intended - Buñuel himself would, no doubt, have approved. INFO 60 Patriarchou Ioakim, Tel. (+30) 211.113.2626

L’AUDRION

When it comes to finesse, elegance and luxury, who can compete with the French? The restaurant L’Audrion on Filomousou Etairias Square serves the classic dishes of French gastronomy with a flourish that only the French can achieve. Buoyed by critical acclaim and a Michelin star, Marie-Laure Bocabarteille and chef Alain Parodi have created an Athens bistro filled with the authentic atmosphere of their home country. The decor is fresh, with plenty of plants, bright colors and Tom Dixon light fixtures hanging over the bar. Order foie gras terrine, asparagus, beef cheeks or snails Bourguignon, accompanied by French and Greek wines. You can also pick out wine or selections of cheeses and cold cuts to take with you. INFO 3 Filomousou Etairias, Plaka, Tel. (+30) 210.324.1193, laudrion.gr

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Â© GEORGE ADAMOS

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WELCOME OUTLOOK

THE ATHENS BRIEF As a difficult decade draws to an end, the Greek capital is evolving into a top city break destination for millennials and baby boomers alike. B Y A L E X A N D R A T Z AV E L L A

f Athens in 2018 had a soundtrack, it would be a loop of the rumble of suitcases being rolled along on sidewalks, public squares and metro concourses: the noise from millions of travelers flocking in for a rewarding city break. However, the road to this tourism boom hasn’t always been strewn with rose petals for the Greek capital. It may be one of mankind’s greatest cities, but it faces stiff competition from destinations like Rome, Istanbul and Barcelona, not to mention the more than 150 picture-postcard Greek islands so close at hand. No one could have predicted today’s tourism explosion a decade ago, when the crisis first made its presence felt, shutting down hotels and shops in the city center. But international air links have increased and passenger arrivals at Athens Airport have soared from below 2 million in 2013 to 4.8 million in 2017 and 5.1 million even before the end of 2018. The tourism season has expanded as well and now runs from May to late November. Overnight stays in the first half of 2018 came to 13 million, with solo visitors gaining ground, too. Athens has topped many travelers’ lists of favorites, particularly those from Asia. Arrivals from India, for example, are up 114 percent compared with last year. So what’s bringing all these people to Athens – and why now?

Athens by night. It’s no surprise that 90.5% of departing tourists this year said they would like to come back. AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

WELCOME OUTLOOK

For decades, Athens meant just one nine-letter word for foreign travelers: Acropolis. A one-day visit before or after a jaunt to the islands was enough for them to tick the Greek capital off their bucket list. Besides the Acropolis, they may also – at best – have taken a walk around Plaka and a snapshot of the changing of the guard at Parliament before having a souvlaki meal in Monastiraki, but that’s all. Although more than 80 percent of last year’s visitors in the 30-50 age group, said they chose the city for its archaeological sites and museums, it is no longer the past alone that makes Athens attractive. According to the latest survey on tourist satisfaction and the performance of Attica hotels (carried out by the Athens Hoteliers’ Association), foreign visitors are also attracted by the city’s modern cultural life, its residents’ attitude, its entertainment and leisure scene, and its hotels, which received an overall score of 8.5 out of 10. While most agree that there is, indeed, room for improvement – particularly with regard to the upkeep of buildings, repair of sidewalks and English-language signposts for major tourist attractions – 90 percent of the departing visitors interviewed expressed their intention to return, saying they feel there is a lot more they didn’t see. Of course, even the attractions they did manage to see can always improve in time for their next visit. The Acropolis Museum, for example, ranked sixth in the world by TripAdvisor and expected to break 2017’s record of 1.7 million visitors in 2018, will be granting public access to a new level in 2019. This will be a oneof-a-kind experience, a tour among the rich collection of artifacts found beneath

01. Strolling around Plaka in the winter, free of the tourist crush and the heat. 02. Setting out for a tour on a wooden COCO-MAT bike. 03. Coffee break at the Third Place café. 04. The Choragic Monument of Lysicrates. © PERIKLES MERAKOS

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Str.Eaters, a new food court at Karytsi Square.

the museum that will reveal much about life in ancient Athens.

REAL ESTATE It’s obvious, even to visitors, that Athens is changing, and the real estate market presents fertile ground for tourism investment opportunities. The smallest of studio apartments are proving successful Airbnbs, new micro hotels are springing up all over the city center, and the rebirth of Syngrou Avenue as a bridge between the historic center and the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center to the south is underway. The city also got a handful of new five-star hotels in 2018, including the Athens Marriott and Greece’s first Grand Hyatt – the group’s second in the EU. “There is a great deal of demand for the purchase of existing properties in Athens by domestic and foreign investors. There is a pressing need to develop old buildings in the service of tourism. What is positive about it all

Cocktails with a Greek twist at Odori Vermuteria di Atene.

is that Athens’ existing building stock is being used, so there is no need for new construction,” says Ria Vogiatzi from Elastic Architects. The firm is responsible for some of Athens’ new hotels, like the Coco-Mat Athens BC and the Niche, which are expected to be completed within the next few months.

NEW NEIGHBORHOODS Alongside such investments, the city is also seeing small neighborhood interventions, such as POLIS², a City of Athens initiative aimed at reviving abandoned buildings while boosting community groups, businesses and art cooperatives. The program includes small subsidies, while the municipal authority provides the space for initiatives and activities that are free to the public. As a result, parts of the capital that have suffered from neglect for years are on a path towards renewal. One of these is the neighborhood of Kypseli, whose municipal market

IT’S OBVIOUS, EVEN TO VISITORS, THAT ATHENS IS CHANGING, AND THE REAL ESTATE MARKET PRESENTS FERTILE GROUND FOR TOURISM INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITIES.

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has been brought back to life in a historic, early 20th-century building. Another is Theatrou Square, behind City Hall, until recently an overlooked area. Today, it’s home to a multilingual library and games space called Book and Play, where locals and tourists can be found hanging out together. On the opposite corner of the square, visitors can sign up for role-playing games that take place in different parts of the city, while right next door they can book cycle tours where they can ride wooden Coco-Mat bicycles. Nearby, the “I Love Athens Project,” which celebrates the Greek capital’s history and attractions through photography, is another interactive option. These initiatives and others, such as “Curing the Limbo,” which connects locals to foreign migrants and refugees trying to learn Greek, are what earned Athens the title of European Innovation Capital 2018, an important recognition of the effort and the progress it has made in spite of the challenges it faces.

CULTURE “Athens used to be a secondary destination for the art crowd, but this has changed in recent years,” says Polydoros Karyofyllis (aka Poka-Yio), artist and co-founder of the Athens Biennale. “Now they come for its contemporary culture, to feel that they’re right in the thick of things.” The Biennale here just drew to

WELCOME OUTLOOK

IN A CITY IN THE THROES OF CHANGE, EVERY VISIT IS A NEW EXPERIENCE. EVEN SCENES THAT APPEAR TO REMAIN THE SAME CAN PRESENT NEW PLEASURES IF VIEWED FROM A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE.

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La Fura dels Baus, with acclaimed soprano Carmen Giannattasio in the title role.

FOOD & DRINK You can eat well and affordably in Athens, whether in a small local taverna or a Michelin-starred restaurant. For many well-known chefs, 2018 was all about street food; one of the strongest global culinary trends right now. Athens acquired its first food court, Str.Eaters, with eight different food stations, a cocktail stand, a wine-lovers’ corner and a pop-up store for shopping therapy. If you’re one of those foodies who likes to post a snap of a dish on social media before digging in, you’ll be happy to know that Athens right now is more Instagrammable than ever before. From the perfect ice-cream cone of Dickie Dee, topped with a ring of cotton candy, to the brilliant purse-shaped treat named the Clutch and designed by chef Dimitris Chronopoulos at CTC, appearance is key when it comes to desserts. As far as coffee is concerned, Athens

a close, drawing praise from the public and critics alike. “With work that stars Kim Jong-un and jockstraps, artists give us a glimpse of a brighter future,” The Guardian wrote in its review of the 6th Athens Biennale, which brought together 100 artists, theorists and multimedia creators. The Greek National Opera has also been getting international attention. It expanded its repertory in 2018, with a full program for both its stages, and enjoyed sold-out performances almost across the board. One of its major achievements this year has been a sharp rise in the number of tourists attending performances. “Our operas have been presented with English surtitles; our program has included important partnerships, such as with London’s Royal Opera House and Berlin’s Komische Oper; and we’ve had special guest stars like Anita Rachvelishvili at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. The Greek National Opera has become a real attraction for foreign visitors to Athens,” says the GNO’s artistic director, Giorgos Koumendakis. Among the 2019 GNO productions already announced, highlights anticipated to attract large foreign crowds include “Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk,” directed by Fanny Ardant and with costumes from four-time Oscar-winner Milena Canonaro (May), as well as “Norma” (June) from the famous Barcelona-based collective

deserves credit for the attention being paid to specialty coffees; the numerous barista awards the city has taken home from international competitions over the past six years are testament to the quality of brews and service on offer. Recycling is also gaining ground, and while it may take time to wean the city’s cafés off plastic cups and straws, a good first step is the Stopotirimou (“in my glass”) initiative, whereby dozens of cafés in the city center (including Third Place and Zoe’s Premium Latteria) offer a ten percent discount if you bring your own drinking vessel. Athenians don’t really like to dance. You’ll usually find them leaning against a cool bar, like the one at Odori Vermuteria di Atene or at brand-new Senios, nodding to the beat. Nevertheless, groups of local revelers are usually welcoming and it’s easy to make new friends, as often happens at The Clumsies or Baba Au Rum. There, sipping on cocktails made with Greek spirits, you can find your own

01. The Clutch dessert is in the bag. 02. Ice cream delight at Dickie Dee. 03. The “I Love Athens Project”space at Theatrou Square, an urban area undergoing a renaissance.

answer to the question posed by Forbes – “Is Athens Europe’s Most Exciting Cocktail City?” – just one of several major articles on the city appearing in the foreign press this year. The New York Times looked at Athens and its new culture and entertainment scenes in the wake of the crisis; The Guardian presented it as the “new place to shop couture”; and the Qantas inflight magazine featured an extensive piece on “How to see Athens like never before.” In a city in the throes of change, every visit is a new experience. Even scenes that appear to remain the same can present new pleasures if viewed from a different perspective, at a different time of the year. Just take the Acropolis, for example: Sure you’ve admired it in the sparkling summer light, but have you seen it lit up on a winter’s night from a heated rooftop bar while sipping a glass of wine?

THE PARTHENON E XPERIENCE 72 HOURS

NOTHING BUT THE HITS Our itinerary hits all the highlights that make Athens a hot city break destination. BY I N DI A D OY L E

THE ERECHTHEION THE ACROPOLIS

FRIDAY

CLASSICAL BEGINNINGS

Start your Athenian adventure where it all began: at the Acropolis. The key to enjoying your visit is taking your time. Linger on its slopes, where you’ll find the Theater of Dionysus, believed to be the first theater in the world, and the original stage for ancient Greek performances. Walking further up through the pine trees, you’ll arrive behind the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a larger ancient theater renowned for its flawless acoustics. When you finally reach the summit, the Parthenon lies ahead, while the Erechtheion – lined with its six famous caryatids, marks the northern side of the citadel. Looking out across the city, Mt Lycabettus lies to the east and the glittering Aegean Sea to the southwest. It’s impossible not to be swept away by the romance and history of it all. The winter months offer a chance to have this wonder of ancient civilization almost to yourself: ticket prices are reduced; the crowds thin out a little; and the cooler weather lends itself to friendlier climbing conditions. 48

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THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

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NEW PERSPECTIVES

Whereas the majesty of the Parthenon is in its scale and location, at the Acropolis Museum (15 Dionysiou Areopagitou) it’s all about the details. Below the Acropolis’ southeastern corner sits the award-winning Bernard Tschumi-designed building, which opened in 2007. In many ways, it reflects the contemporary Athenian experience, bringing the wealth of archaeological finds into a modern space and tracing a lineage from past to present. The abundance of ceramics discovered on the slopes of the Acropolis are displayed on both sides of a grand central slope. In the Archaic Gallery, statues from that period (800 BC-480 BC) – one of the most tumultuous in the city’s history – are bathed in natural light. Outside, the Acropolis is in full view, keeping all these finds in context. On the top floor, the Parthenon frieze runs around the room, creating a life-size echo of the temple. In the winter months the museum closes at 5pm (Mon-Thu), but stays open until 22:00 on Fridays and until 20:00 on weekends, giving you time to explore at a leisurely pace. On the second floor, there‘s also an impressive, spacious indoor/outdoor café-restaurant, great for another chance to gaze out upon the locus of Athenian history. It never gets old.

INSIDE THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

KORE STATUE AND ITS PAINTED REPLICA

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REFRESH AND REFUEL

TRABALA

HIP ATHENS

Establishments like Drupes & Drips and a flourishing creative scene have helped Koukaki earn its reputation as a happening spot. An afternoon stroll through the neighborhood lets you stop off at Sous Sol (6 Veikou), an art gallery and concept store that opened in 2012 and is just minutes from the Acropolis metro station. Owner Maria Velizioti curates covetable homeware, ceramics and art pieces alongside a treasure trove of desirable items made by local and international artists. Further along Veikou is Poua Creations (88 Veikou), a boutique selling crafty accessories, jewelry and quirky clothes. Once you’re in the center of Koukaki, head to Trabala (36 Odissea Androutsou). This ceramics studio and workshop was founded in 2017 and its unique items are made in-store, perfect for picking up a one-of-a-kind souvenir. A few doors down is Me Then (36 Odissea Androutsou), a hip fashion boutique, with a mix of playful t-shirts, sweaters and tailored menswear. © DIMITRIS VLAIKOS

After all that sightseeing, take a break from Ancient Greece and taste the flavors of modern Athens. Nearby Koukaki is one of the city’s most popular neighborhoods, attracting trendy locals and savvy tourists alike. Head to Drupes & Drips (20 Zitrou), an Italian-inspired deli-café-wine bar that prides itself on serving “the best spritz in town.” They’re not wrong. Enjoy traditional cicchetti (open-face bruschetti) served with a variety of toppings, as well as generous plates of cheeses and cured meats. The selection of formaggi embodies the happy marriage of Italian and Greek influences, with the opportunity to mix goat’s cheese from Mykonos and graviera from Skyros with San Pietro in Cera d’Api – an Italian speciality made from cow’s milk and treated with beeswax. A soundtrack of Italian hits will ensure you leave with a spritz in your step, too.

RELAX AND REHYDRATE

Hop in a cab or enjoy the scenic 20-minute walk through Koukaki and Plaka towards Syntagma and the heart of Athenian nightlife. On Ipitou Street, neoclassical buildings house a string of small, lively bars. Start at Blue Bird (4 Ipitou), where carefully crafted cocktails are served in an intimate, retro space. The twilight hour is the perfect time for a relaxing glass of wine or a signature “Ginger Jo” to cut the winter chill. Other options include rose petal Martinis and the sweet-filled “Bubble Trouble,” but it’s also known for its matcha lattes. Next door is Ipitou The Bar, a corner spot with a big terrace and generous drinks, where you can sit outside under the festive fairy lights.

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BLUE BIRD

NOLAN

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NOLAN

SPITJACK

FOODIE FUSION

Minutes from Ipitou is Nolan (31 Voulis), a Japanese-Greek fusion restaurant that has made waves on the Athenian culinary scene since opening in 2014. Founded by Sotiris Kontizas, a chef with credentials from Nobu, the restaurant serves up a glorious hybrid of Asian and Mediterranean cuisines. Dishes arrive one by one, and are notable for innovative ingredient pairings: think soba noodles with tahini sauce and salmon sashimi or short fin squid with fennel, best enjoyed over rice. Nolan’s signature fried chicken packs a satisfyingly crispy punch. 52

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OINOSCENT

Plates here are designed to be shared and, while they’re slightly more expensive than your average taverna options, the imaginative concoctions will have you ordering generously – nevertheless, your stomach will thank you. A drinks menu of Greek wines and unpasteurised island beers provides a harmonious complement to the food. The restaurant’s reputation means reservations are essential. If you can’t get a table at Nolan, there are plenty of tasty options nearby. Oinoscent (45-47 Voulis), the city’s first wine bar, wisely pairs food to its 700 wines, rather

than the other way around. Handmade flatbreads, sea bass ceviche or beef ragu sit alongside locally-sourced cheese and charcuterie boards. For an altogether meatier meal (the kind that makes charcuterie look positively restrained), head to Spitjack (10 Skoufou) for decadent rotisserie chicken and duck, porchetta and beef picanha in big, shareable portions, with sides of classic corn-on-thecob and horseradish mashed potatoes. American-inspired cocktails and Parisian-inspired chandeliers add to the lavish atmosphere. Leave ample time to digest.

E XPERIENCE 72 HOURS

BAR FLY

BENAKI MUSEUM

Whatever sumptuous feast you’ve enjoyed, you should finish your evening by embracing the vibrant bar scene to be found in the commercial triangle – between the main squares of Omonia, Monastiraki and Syntagma – at the center of the city. This area is home to the city’s broadest selection of drinking holes. Your first stop should be Senios (15 Kalamiotou), a new-age Greek drinking spot that prides itself on old-school values of elegance and precision. A barrel-lined wall is the bar’s showpiece, but what happens behind the bar is the real attraction: award-winning mixologists create dreamlike Negronis, Martinis, and perfect Old Fashioneds. Nearby is the aptly named Noel (59B Kolokotroni), a sparkling bar; its ornate Christmas decorations and general holiday theme are guaranteed to put you in the festive spirit. Later, head up Kolokotroni – perhaps with a short detour via world-renowned Baba au Rum (6 Klitiou) – to Kolokotroni 9 (9 Kolokotroni), an intimate hang-out with regular DJ sets, and The Bank Job (13 Kolokotroni), a bustling bar with extravagant cocktails. For a grand finale, head to Drunk Sinatra (16 Thiseos), where technicolor drinks will have you seeing double.

SENIOS

CHRISTIAN AND BYZANTINE MUSEUM © PERIKLES MERAKOS

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E XPERIENCE 72 HOURS

SATURDAY ART AND HISTORY

Spend a morning with the custodians of culture. Along busy Vasilissis Sofias – known as the Museum avenue – you’ll find the Benaki Museum (1 Koumpari), the Museum of Cycladic Art (4 Neofitou Douka), the Christian and Byzantine Museum (22 Vasilissis Sofias) and the B. & M. Theocharakis Foundation (1 Merlin). Start at the Cycladic, where collections of ancient Greek, Cycladic and Cypriot art are housed within the main building, while temporary exhibitions featuring internationally renowned artists are held in the Stathatos Mansion next door. At the Benaki, ancient Greek, Byzantine and neo-Hellenic works, including ceramics, jewelry, paintings and sculpture, are on display in the stately neoclassical building. The Byzantine Museum covers the oft-overlooked period of history between the end of the Classical period and arrival of the Ottomans. The museum’s lush gardens represent the Byzantine concept of Paradise. On a slightly different note, the B. & M. Theocharakis Foundation celebrates both music and the visual arts, with regular exhibitions on the floors above its main concert space.

NATIONAL GARDEN

MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART

URBAN HAVEN

Enjoy the fresh air with a walk through the National Garden, behind Syntagma Square, a sanctuary for botany lovers and home to over 500 different plants. You’ll encounter statues of Greek philosophers, politicians and monarchs, as well as an impressive rendering of Lord Byron, scattered throughout its green spaces. Just to the south of the park sits the Zappeion, a neoclassical ceremonial hall commissioned by Evangelos Zappas. Cross Vasileos Konstantinou Avenue, and you’ll find the sublime Panathenaic Stadium. Originally built in 330 BC, the stadium was erected anew to host the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. It also welcomed the 2004 games and, fittingly, is the finishing point for the annual Athens marathon. © DIMITRIS TSOUMPLEKAS AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

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A MODERN ICON

Swap the bustle of central Athens for the serenity of the coastline at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) at 364 Syngrou. (A free bus leaves from Syntagma Square approximately every half hour, or you can take a taxi.) This amazing structure, a Renzo Piano-designed masterpiece, is the latest addition to Athens’ architectural landscape, and will astound you as you approach it. While it pays homage to the forms, both architectural and social, of ancient Greece, the building is clearly futuristic in its rendering. Panoramic views out over the city and the Saronic Gulf from one of the largest green roofs in Europe set the stage for the SNFCC’s vision and innovation. The variety of trees and plants in the sprawling green gardens reflect the richness of the flora of the Mediterranean, with oregano, thyme and lavender fields flourishing throughout the year. Firming up the complex’s eco-credentials are bikes which you can rent from the front of the park. The building itself is home to both the National Opera and the National Library of Greece; these two wings are separated by a large piazza – the contemporary reimagining of an ancient Agora, which is busy throughout the day. For a light lunch, the Canal Café overlooks the building and the canal, with a fresh and healthy menu made from local ingredients. Nearby is Thalassinos (32 Lisikratous), a renowned seafood restaurant serving up fresh fish and wholesome classics. Try the octopus, celeriac and mashed potatoes; zucchini linguine with fish roe; and tomato rice topped with cuttlefish. Afterwards, you can head back to the SNFCC to catch one of the free performances, screenings or events that take place across the venue throughout the year. A full program is available on their website (snfcc.org). 56

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Â© PERIKLES MERAKOS

STAVROS NIARCHOS FOUNDATION CULTURAL CENTER

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E XPERIENCE 72 HOURS

THE TIME-TRODDEN PATH

If you’d prefer to build up an appetite before you sit down for dinner, head back into town for a pre-sunset stroll around Filopappou Hill. To get to the historic “Hill of Muses,” walk up from where Rovertou Galli meets pedestrianized Dionysiou Areopagitou, which skirts the Acropolis, then

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follow the path up towards the Filopappou Monument. The short climb through olive groves and pine trees will evoke conflicting feelings of timelessness and historical presence. The hill is named for a tomb created in honor of an immigrant, an exiled prince; the area also boasts Socrates’ prison (located to the north),

where the philosopher was believed to have been imprisoned and sentenced to death, and the Dora Stratou Theater to the west, where you can catch traditional performances in the open air during summer. The neighboring Pnyx Hill was originally the site of the Athenian public assemblies and offers equally panoramic

E XPERIENCE 72 HOURS

PUNK PLATES

The laidback neighborhood of Petralona, one stop on the metro from Thiseio, provides the perfect after-work tonic. Sporting a mint-green industrial exterior, The Holy Goat (36 Kidantidon) is a self-proclaimed “punk bistro” with concert pictures and vinyl records on the walls and “God save the Goat” placemats on the tables. It follows a rule-breaking approach to Greek flavors, with innovative creations such as deconstructed sea bream ceviche and red snapper cabbage rolls, building a stellar reputation. The bar here is a draw, too, with cocktail options and a comprehensive whisky list.

FILOPAPPOU HILL

views of the city. Continuing on to the Thiseio metro station, you’ll rejoin Dionysiou Areopagitou and pass a variety of enticing jewelry and handicraft stalls crammed between cafés and restaurants. Expect to hear the sound of drums and guitars as musicians gather at twilight to play to the evening strollers.

DOWN-HOME DRINKS

Walk around the corner for post-dinner cocktails – or for ping pong. At Lola (11 Kiriadon), Petralona’s coolest hang-out spot, there’s the option for both. The chic-but-homely interior draws a mostly local crowd, and a friendly atmosphere keeps them there. Stay warm indoors, enjoying cocktails from mason jars or, if the weather allows, take a seat at the tables placed haphazardly outside. Downstairs in the basement, challenge a friend to a game of ping pong, soundtracked by upbeat jazz. AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

E XPERIENCE 72 HOURS

ROOM WITH A VIEW

For the evening’s finale, take a taxi to Bios (84 Pireos). Walk through an understated entrance on the side of the elegant Bauhaus building and climb to the rooftop. In winter, the main action takes place inside a greenhouse-type bar that sits on the large terrace. Funky blue lights and an array of plants set the tone, while DJs fond of disco and house music create an energetic atmosphere and revelers gather to enjoy views of the Parthenon illuminated against the night sky. If you have the energy, continue into the heart of Kerameikos, where Athens’ creative community gathers along Plateon at atmospheric cafés and bars to enjoy beers and meze.

SUNDAY

OPEN THE TREASURE CHEST

For those with an interest in history, a visit to the National Archaeological Museum (44 Patision) is essential. Though a little further away from the main sites, the museum has one of the largest and most prestigious collections of ancient works in Europe, more than justifying the detour. Its amazing exhibit items – some date back to the Neolithic era – demonstrate the wealth and the achievements of ancient civilizations: gold jewelry from Troy and intricate glassware from Delos are exhibited alongside important examples of Classical, Roman and Hellenic sculpture. There is a whole section devoted to the discoveries at Mycenae, and the opulence on display is staggering. The Antikythera Mechanism, thought to be the world’s first computer, is here, too. 60

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E XPERIENCE 72 HOURS

MONASTIRAKI SQUARE

PLAKA

BARGAIN HUNTING

PLATEIA AVISSINIA

Walk to Omonia, find the subway platform with the 1930s tiles, and take the metro to Thiseio, where you can begin a stroll through the antiques district. Sunday is the best, and busiest, day to visit the famous flea market, when antique dealers join the regular shops to bring a further degree of bustle and vibrancy to the area. Avissinias Square is the chaotic centerpiece, with plenty to rummage through, as furniture, trinkets and eclectic homewares are strewn. Browsing this plethora of weird and wonderful objects can prove wholly absorbing, especially as the sun languishes overhead and music from nearby bouzouki players reverberates around the square. If you have any spending money left, it’s likely to disappear when you are tempted by some serious bargains – so prepare your best haggling techniques and start thinking about ways to ship any impractical purchases home. Continue along Ifestou, which is jampacked with shops offering leather backpacks, sandals, handcrafted jewelry and vintage clothes right alongside stores dedicated to touristy t-shirts. Pause for a coffee at TAF (5 Normanou), where you can also check out contemporary artworks and pick up souvenirs made by Greek artisans. In the end, you’ll spill out onto the boisterous Monastiraki Square, watched over by the Tzisdarakis Mosque and the Acropolis above.

E XPERIENCE 72 HOURS

FINAL GOODBYES

For one last gaze out over this eternal city, head to one of the rooftop terraces around Monastiraki Square. Those who crave sweet endings should make for 360 Cocktail (2 Ifestou), which serves a decadent chocolate brownie to go with its drinks and offers views of the old terracotta roofs below. A newer addition is Anglais (6 Kirikiou), a tropical-themed bar where you can sit on custom-made furniture and look out over Monastiraki and Plaka.

TIME FOR ONE MORE?

Half an hour away by taxi is Vouliagmeni Lake, a natural wonder near the coast known as the Athens Riviera. The lake is popular throughout the year, not only as a peaceful place in beautiful natural surroundings, but also as a swimming destination, since the water here – a mixture of seawater and freshwater – remains around 24° C year-round. From here, a short trip to Faidon Delicatessen (28 Agiou Ioannou) in Voula is worth it, for some of the best cheeses in the city.

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KAISARIANI MONASTERY

Nestled on the slopes of Mt Ymittos is the Byzantine-era Kaisariani Monastery, which dates from the 11th century. The best way to get there is by taxi, a short ride up into the forest. The sense of tranquility and solitude is superb. Inside the church, wall paintings from the 1600s remain largely intact. Make sure to bring cash for the €2 entrance fee. A 15-minute walk east from the parking lot is Kalopoula, a charming rustic café in the middle of a forested park.

VOULIAGMENI LAKE

SWEET ALCHEMY

EXPERIENCE SWEETS

Athens may not be steeped in a rich tradition of chocolate, but you won’t be disappointed by the quality and the creative spirit that you’ll find in the city’s chocolateries. BY N E NA DI M I T R IOU / P HOTO S: A L E X A N DRO S A N TON I A DI S

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SWEET ALCHEMY

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EXPERIENCE SWEETS

ASIMAKOPOULOS BROS

PETITE FLEUR

DARK SIDE OF CHOCOLATE

hen you see the almost infinite variety of chocolates neatly arranged in perfect rows in the shop window at Aristokratikon, you might be overcome with a sense of FOMO (Fear of Missing Out) – once you realise you’ll never be able to taste them all. Most are shaped by hand and decorated with nimble, agile fingers. Among the winter bestsellers are the marrons déguisés, made with fresh chestnut purée and dipped in milk or dark chocolate. At the Dark Side of Chocolate, you’ll find handmade chocolates with more 66

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SOKOLATA

unusual fillings and using chocolate containing a minimum of 60% cocoa solids. Recommendations from pastry chef Aristotelis Panayiotarou, who served in Paris under the famous French chocolatier Patrick Roger, will help you understand how perfectly chocolate can go with frankincense and lavender, or with olive oil from the Peloponnese and citrus fruit. Here, not only can you buy a presentation box (there are three sizes available) filled with chocolates – my favorites are chocolates flavored with cardamom and honey from the flowers of the arbutus tree and ones flavored with fresh basil – you can enjoy

a coffee or a cup of hot chocolate, too. Among the old-world-style cafés, Petit Fleur in Kolonaki is known for its fine hot chocolate. This charming spot features a few tables, a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and a romantic ambience, with low lighting and jazz coming from a record player; it serves a proper, rich hot chocolate, made with melted, bittersweet chocolate. I recommend ordering the large size, which comes in a cup that requires two hands to lift it to your lips. Try the fortified aromatic hot drinks flavored with vanilla, spices or chili; rum and orange zest; or bourbon whiskey and nutmeg .

EXPERIENCE SWEETS

Whole chunks of chocolate are melted at café Sokolata near Syntagma Square. The result is a thick, luxurious hot drink, that can be sweetened according to your preference. If you’re near Monastiraki, order a hot chocolate to go at the ice cream parlor Kokkion. The owner is also a highly qualified pastry chef, with prior experience at Michelin-starred restaurants across Europe. He makes his version of hot chocolate using the finest primary ingredients, while his shop window proudly displays a selection of chocolate desserts freshly made each day. The concept store Anamesa serves pink hot chocolate decorated with pieces of candy and a lot of glitter. Here, you can also buy edible chocolate lipstick, decorated with gold leaf, which will leave a discreet shade of color on your lips – until you lick it off, that is. Carpo, near Kolonaki Square, is an ideal pit stop on a day out shopping – you can enjoy a pick-me-up handmade chocolate bar containing either the finest nut varieties roasted on the premises, or dried fruit from around the world. For retro-style desserts and gateaux slices, try the historic shop Asimakopoulos Bros. Their old-style chocolate vermicelli puffs (“troufes”) are made with the airiest of sponge cake and filled with chocolate mousse. At Sweet Alchemy, a boutique by Greece’s most famous pastry chef, Stelios Parliaros, you can find a variety of eclectic chocolate desserts from an avant-garde pastry making tradition. Athenians come back time and again for the robust chocolate truffles containing strong rum, and for the sleek satin tarts with chocolate ganache and sea salt. The shop’s magnificent gâteaux de voyage in gift boxes travel as well as their name suggests, allowing you to pack them in your luggage, confident that they ‘ll reach their final destination unharmed.

KOKKION

CARPO

ARISTOKRATIKON

INFO: ANAMESA 24 Nikis, Tel. (+30) 210.325.4930 • ARISTOKRATIKON 7 Voulis, Tel. (+30) 210.322.0546

ANAMESA

ASIMAKOPOULOS BROS. 82 Harilaou Trikoupi, Tel. (+30) 210.361.0092 • CARPO 6 Kanari, Tel. (+30) 210.360.5617 DARK SIDE OF CHOCOLATE 49 Solonos, Tel. (+30) 210.339.2348 • KOKKION 2 Protogenous, Tel. (+30) 6981.563.511 • PETITE FLEUR 44 Omirou, Tel. (+30) 210.361.3169 • SOKOLATA 35 Voulis, Tel. (+30) 213.030.2290 • SWEET ALCHEMY 24 Herodotou, Tel. (+30) 210-7240205 • •

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ADVERTORIAL

Zonars heralds a new era in sophisticated dining and drinking, with a revitalized menu, a brand-new selection of creatively reinvented cocktails, as well as some interesting new touches to its timeless décor. Award-winning executive chef Nikos Skliras has created exquisite signature dishes, remaining true to Zonars’ distinct gastronomic character which combines the best in Greek and international cuisine, including a tempting sushi bar menu. Traditional Sunday brunch, hand-picked daily specials, a theater menu and after-shopping options, can all be enjoyed in the unique atmosphere of Athens’ most cosmopolitan establishment. Cocktail designer Mirsini Spaneli, in collaboration with the renowned Hybro-Gardeners team, has reinvented classic cocktails to create a fine-drinking experience. Highlights include both timeless recipes and new, innovative approaches that combine the latest techniques in mixology with Greek aromas and flavors. Cocktail hour at Zonars is a journey through time and space that brings together pre-1950’s classics, Tiki drinks, fancy bubbles and spritzes, perfect aperitifs and low-ABV selections, too.

Zonars is also a feast for the eyes, with an impressive collection of works by renowned Greek and international artists decorating the wood-paneled walls. Right in the heart of the city, among the finest shops and hotels, Zonars is the in-crowd’s meeting point, welcoming local and international artists, media personalities, businesspeople and fashionistas among others. In other words, it’s the place to be in order to experience Athens at its finest.

9 VOUKOURESTIOU ST & PANEPISTIMIOU ST, 106 71 ATHENS T. +30 210 3251 430 , +30 210 3251 450 panasgroup@panasgroup.gr

EXPERIENCE STREET FOOD TUK TUK

MAKE MINE TO GO Athens’ street food scene is going from strength to strength, with traditional Greek staples like souvlaki now joined by exotic bites from far-flung corners of the globe. SALTY PIG

FALAFELLAS

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HOOCUT

repare to stand in line, eat on your feet and, of course, make a mess. These are the holy commandments of street food. Greeks are used to eating on the go, with many traditional options for food in a hurry, ranging from cheese pies to sesame bread rings, roasted chestnuts, corn on the cob and the vromiko (literally “dirty”, but in the sense of “greasy” or “high-fat”). And let’s not forget that long before the term “street food” made an appearance, souvlaki was already a national treasure. In Athens, you’re never far away from a spinning gyro (meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie) but nowadays, you can increasingly find more unexpected offerings, too, from Venezuelan arepas and New Orleans brisket to crocodile burgers.

BY NENA DIM ITR IOU

Â© DIMITRIS VLAIKOS

SMAK

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COOKOOMELA GRILL

GUARANTEE

FEYROUZ

HOOCUT

WHAT A FILLING For the last 30 years, family-run Guarantee has been serving up gourmet sandwiches in Koukaki. It offers more than 130 ingredients, including local cheeses, homemade pesto and perfectly cooked roast beef. Pure olive oil from Mani and freshly ground pepper take pride of place in nearly all the sandwiches. Yannis, the chef, makes the task of selecting flavors much more straightforward, with a list of recommended combos to choose from. Enjoy your sandwich with a freshly squeezed juice, such as the spinach, apple and ginger option - both zesty and energy-packed. At sandwich joint San Francisco in Kerameikos, lots of thought has gone into creating original recipes; there are even an impressive twelve veggie options. Nikos, the owner, is a devotee of dark electronic music - which echoes throughout the shop. San Francisco sources the best local products, with cold cuts from Drama, feta cheese from Kalavryta and 72

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a good selection of Greek craft beers. You’ll know when your sandwich is readywhen you hear the tinkle of Nikos’ small serving bell over the background beats.

WRAP ME UP Large lines have formed every lunchtime along pedestrianized Aiolou Street ever since Falafellas opened four years ago. Here, Arabic pita bread wraps are filled with freshly fried chickpea balls, tahini, yogurt sauce and roasted or fresh vegetables that provide a satisfying crunch. Consistent and courteous, the staff are always willing to patiently explain the contents of each falafel wrap, available in two sizes and as spicy as you can take. Another great vegetarian option is Cookoomela Grill, where you can enjoy a satisfying souvlaki wrap with four types of mushrooms and a variety of sauces: red (tomato), yellow (mustard) and green (herbs). The menu also features tasty lentil kebabs and a vegetarian soup of the day. Leave some room for the vegan

Sicilian cannoli and, as you take a bite, remember the movie “The Godfather” and that classic line: “Leave the gun, take the cannoli.” Hoocut offers a souvlaki wrap that’s definitely worth trying. Their pitas are kneaded on the spot, made with their own fresh dough, and the french fries are hand-cut and crisped to golden perfection. This “fine-dining” souvlaki shop is run by five chefs, one of whom boasts a Michelin star. Try the thinly sliced gyro meat, especially the beef or lamb, and for sides, add the sausage with cabbage salad.

TAKE ME TO ITALY Smak have perfected a slow-rise dough for pizza and peinirli (pizza boat). As for the toppings, their approach is decidedly minimalist. They propose, for example, a peinirli made with mozzarella and kefalotyri cheese and served with just lemon and oregano. Don’t forget the sweet options, such as the calzone with

EXPERIENCE STREET FOOD

anthotyro (whey cheese), honey and orange preserve, or the calzone with creme patisserie. On hipster-friendly Protogenous, you’ll find Crust, a concept pizza parlor. Keep an eye out for the door leading underground to find gigs, parties and dancing in the basement. As soon as you’ve worked up an appetite, just pop back upstairs and savor a delicious slice. The pizzas are thin-crust, baked to perfection and deliver delicate flavors with only a few ingredients. We recommend the Snow White, with smoked pancetta and prosciutto cotto. Add a bit of the spicy sauce on offer for an extra kick.

UP IN SMOKE Salty Pig serves up brisket and Philly cheesesteak sandwiches, with meats slow-smoked to mouth-watering goodness. You’ll also find golden fried chicken and a selection of American burgers and sandwiches made with pulled pork, beef and their own pastrami. The Psyrri area is home to Po’Boys, another BBQ house inspired by New Orleans and the American South. Resembling a diner, the basement houses the heart of the business: the smoker. Try the beef brisket burger and potato salad with onion, mayo and corn. The menu also features over 30 beers from Greek microbreweries. ATHENS MEETS ASIA “Dough is my fourth child,” says Eleni at Feyrouz. This cozy eatery, with its oud and saz music, is a commendable example of a “fast food” restaurant where the food is not rushed in the slightest. You can try recipes from Syria, Lebanon and Turkey, including lahmajoun (thin Armenian pizza), and pide (Turkish cheese boat) with wine-cooked rooster and several vegetarian pies. Particularly worth trying is the pot-roasted chicken with chickpeas and buttery basmati rice; traditionally eaten by hand but delicious any way you consume it, this dish encapsulates the flavors of Anatolia. Tuk-Tuk in Koukaki will transport you to the brightly colored and high-tem-

po streets of Bangkok, surrounded by posters, toys and trinkets from Thai pop culture. Expect to rub elbows with your fellow diners as you perch at the bar, watching flames flare up from the open kitchen. The food is just as authentic as the decor, with spicy “drunken noodles” packing a paradoxically sobering punch, and coconut milk-rich curries to be savored to the very last drop.

SAN FRANCISCO

INFO:

COOKOOMELA GRILL 43-45 Themistokleous • CRUST 13 Protogenous • FALAFELLAS 51 Aiolou • FEYROUZ 23 Karori • GUARANTEE 41 Veikou • HOOCUT 9 Agias Eirinis Square • PO’BOYS Lepeniotou & Agatharchou • SALTY PIG 36 Ippokratous • SAN FRANCISCO 99 Kerameikou • SMAK 21 Romvis • TUK TUK 40 Veikou •

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ADVERTORIAL

CRUST

PO’BOYS

Kalogrioni 6, Plaka, Athens Tel. (+30) 213.0364.214 Poseidonos Avenue 4, Vouliagmeni Tel. (+30) 210.967.1778 Email: bluefisvouliagmeni@gmail.com

I’

m standing in an unfinished suite at the Perianth Hotel. Scattered around me are piles of scrap, tiles and construction equipment. Straight ahead, there’s a stunning wall-to-wall view of the Parthenon. As I breathe in cement dust and the smell of fresh paint, I ask hotel manager Andreas Kottas about the floor. The designers from K-Studio already told me everything had been stripped before they arrived, but the black terrazzo looks like an original feature of the 1930s building. “No, it’s brand new,” Kottas assures me. “But every design choice was made to reflect the history of the building.” It won’t be the first time I hear that line. On the surface, Athens’ latest hotel trend seems to be about size; small hotels have been popping up across town. Some have adopted the trendy “micro hotel” label, while others go with “inn,” “B&B” or “boutique hotel.” But what they all have in common, a factor more important than their size, is that they’re housed in old buildings, carefully renovated with respect to the history of each space. Compared to conventional hotels, they feature fewer rooms, but far more character and charm.

Situated near the ever-lively Aghia Irini Square, the rooms of the Perianth have been thoughtfully designed to echo the Art Deco style of the 1930s. Surprisingly spacious, they pair masculine features (industrial sliding doors and metal) with feminine touches (colors like Pantone’s Rose Quartz & Serenity). A delight for the eyes, they are a travel blogger’s dream come true.

WHY NOW? Small hotels are a growing global trend, but what really spurred their development in Athens was – yes, you guessed it – the economic crisis, which has given an unexpected boost to so many of the city’s creative fields. John Consolas, an architect and the founder of Alice Inn in Plaka, explains: “The majority of the buildings in this city are small or medium-sized at most, with four to twenty rooms. Due to the crisis, many of them – previously homes or storage facilities – suddenly became available at very low prices.” When Alice Inn opened in 2012, Greece was in the midst of a savage recession and conventional hotels were closing across town. Consolas himself was at a stressful point in his career, feeling pushed to the brink.

18 MICON STREET

E X P E R I E N C E H O S P I TA L I T Y

PETITE PALACES Forget Airbnb. The unique buildings, imaginative restorations and energetic young staff of Athens’ boutique hotels will help you truly live like a local. B Y PAU L I N A B J Ö R K- K A P S A L I S

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IN[N] ATHENS

18 MICON STREET

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E X P E R I E N C E H O S P I TA L I T Y

The idea of opening a B&B in central Athens had been slowly brewing in his mind for years. “It was my retirement plan,” he says, “and then I thought: ‘Hell, I’ll just do it now!’” Consolas secured a historical building in the center, completed some minor renovations to create the four guest rooms, and decorated it with old, inexpensive furniture. In the backyard, you’ll notice a large marble table which he picked up for €20 and brought back on the roof of his car. Behind that is a wall covered with old window shutters, collected when the building across the street was being renovated. He named his new venture Alice Inn, after his grandmother Alice, and applied an Alice-in-Wonderland theme

tic, high end and boring.” But today’s travelers have a growing desire to live authentically, like locals, so anything eccentric is a big bonus. Consolas argues that two currents came together to help small hotels succeed in Athens. There was the economic crisis, which freed up historic buildings and forced owners to renovate with imagination and restraint, rather than excessive budgets. There was also a global shift towards alternative rentals. Thanks to platforms like Airbnb, travelers are seeking out alternative accommodation options. Many trend-conscious people are no longer interested in large hotels. Regardless of age or income status, this seems to be true for a growing number

FOR EVERY FEATURE THEY LACK, THEY PROVIDE SOMETHING SPECIAL THAT YOU CAN’T FIND IN REGULAR, COOKIE-CUTTER HOTEL ROOMS: LOCAL FLAVOR.

that’s cute, but not too in-your-face. It was a hit from the start. Feeling that you have nothing to lose can be a great catalyst for creativity. Today, Consolas and his business partner Ioannis Theodoridis also run JJ Hospitality, a vacation rental agency with a portfolio of historical villas and mansions for rent throughout Greece. Many of the buildings which became available in the center lack some of the facilities you’d expect from a modern, purpose-built hotel; many rooms don’t have balconies or en suite bathrooms, for example, and they all need new plumbing. But for every feature they lack, they provide something special that you can’t find in regular, cookie-cutter hotel rooms: local flavor. “When the economy was booming, hoteliers would spend without thinking,” Consolas says. “Their rooms ended up looking the same: minimalis78

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of guests. As Consolas puts it: “Today, even the place you stay has to be Instagrammable.” A stone’s throw from the funky Alice Inn, services usually found at luxury resorts have been repackaged at the highly Insta-friendly Home & Poetry Hotel. Breakfast and dinner are served on the terrace, and staff can arrange yoga classes and/or spa treatments for you to enjoy in your room. Home & Poetry’s elegant neoclassical 19th-century building had been home, since its construction, to the same Athenian family, who had kept it in such good condition that it required only minor changes to transform it into a hotel a year and a half ago. Walking up the creaking stairs and running my hand along the lacquered banister, I feel I’m going back in time. The 16 rooms are airy and elegant, and decorated with soft colors and vintage furniture.

PERIANTH HOTEL

ALICE INN PERIANTH HOTEL

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HOME & POETRY

The feel is different at 18 Micon Street in Psyrri, where the reception and dining area resemble a trendy Athens café. Hidden behind a plain grey façade, it features industrial touches, like walls of cement, wood and brick (all actually wallpaper, but you’d never know without touching it), paired with distinctive pieces of furniture, such as the long, custom-built dining table. The morning when I visit, the table is set for breakfast, and a handful of guests greet each other and the receptionists before serving themselves treats from the fridge and the small buffet. In the 1950s, the building was a warehouse owned by one of the city’s first tool merchants. Now, it features 15 luxurious, modern guest rooms, all in the minimal style of the reception, but personalised with individual touches. As I’m enjoying an ice-cold juice in the courtyard of In[n] Athens, near Syntagma Square, manager Manos Konstantinou entertains me with stories about the building, which was turned into a hotel in 2015. It was built in the early 20th century to house Greek refugees from Asia Minor, but it’s had many other tenants since then. Today, each room is different, reflecting what the builders found when they peeled back the layers of paint on the walls. 80

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Some have stone walls, some feature bare cement. Konstantinou smiles as he recalls an American guest who arrived holding a picture of himself as a young man in bell-bottomed jeans, standing in front of the building, proving how little the building had changed since the ‘70s. As we speak, muffled construction noise reaches my ears from the building on the other side of the courtyard. The hotel is growing, with 16 new rooms being created, all in the same style as the rest – sleek but with rough industrial elements – albeit perhaps a bit brighter, as dictated by current interior-design trends. Konstantinou points out that there’s more to making guests feel like locals than just offering a charming space. “When we opened, we served food,” he says. “But as a small hotel, with only 22 rooms and all of Athens around the corner, of course that didn’t work.” Instead, he and his staff realized the importance of being able to recommend great restaurants and events nearby. They often get praise for their insider tips, which allow guests to avoid the regular tourist stops and discover the city’s true gems. As the hotel grows, this ethos won’t change. “It’s not, actually, about being tiny,” Konstantinou says. “It’s more about having

a certain mindset. A boutique hotel feels small, and service has to be personal.”

WILL IT LAST? Some of the city’s micro hotels report a slight decrease in bookings compared to last year, likely due to many new, similar options having recently opened, satisfying – temporarily, at least – demand. Regardless, new guest houses keep opening up. Yiannis Alexiades, who showed me around the popular 18 Micon Street, believes there’s still room for many more. With their thoughtfully-designed interiors and great creative energy, I feel little hotels are more attractive than the identical rooms and crowded elevators of the hotel giants. Looking at trends worldwide, travelers agree.

INFO: 18 MICON STREET 14 Esopou

and 18 Mikonos, Tel (+30) 210.323.5307, 18miconstr.com • ALICE INN 9 Tsatsou, Tel (+30) 210.323.7139, aliceinnathens.com • HOME AND POETRY 10 Lysikratous, (+30) 210.322.3204, homeandpoetry.com • IN[N] ATHENS 3 Georgiou Sourri & Filellinon, Tel (+30) 210.325.8555, innathens.com • PERIANTH HOTEL 2 Limpona, Tel (+30) 210.321.6660, perianthhotel.com

DISCOVER AC TIVITIES

HAPPY WHEN IT RAINS From antique pinball to virtual reality, Athens boasts a wealth of exciting options to stay active and have fun indoors. BY M A R I A KOR AC H A I

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ATHENS PINBALL MUSEUM

How hard is it to hack your own brain? A day out at the Museum of Illusions will teach you not to believe in your eyes (at least, not always). If you like brainteasers, are hooked on solving mental puzzles or find optical illusions amusing, you’ve come to the right place. Here, you’ll find a room that makes you lose your balance; you’ll meld with a friend, thanks to a mirror; you’ll lose your head over a dinner invitation and get your fill of riddles. At all the exhibits, you’ll discover the reason for the illusions. After getting more than 50,000 visitors in its first few months of operation, the museum is preparing for a special holiday experience, where you’ll be guided by elves through activities and, of course, illusions, including an “upside-down Christmas” photographic illusion.

MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS ATHENS

Pulling a lever fires a small silver ball into a labyrinthine universe filled with multicoloured flashing lights. As you attempt to keep the ball out of the gaping abyss by hammering away at the flippers, you’re utterly engaged. The cacophony of electronic sounds washes over you as you’re transported back to a state of childlike joy. Over 100 pinball machines have been completely restored and reconditioned; they flash as brightly as they did, LED screens keep track of the score and each one broadcasts that satisfying “ping” as the ball hits its target. These retro gems (made mainly in the USA by Williams, Atari, Gottlieb and other companies between 1957 and 2007) aren’t like most museum items; they’re all fully operational and waiting on players. The best part? There’s no coin slot, because all the games are free – which changes the player’s frame of mind. “In the old days, people would slap or even kick these beauties!” says co-owner Makis Gountaras, who’s been a pinball technician all his adult life and is responsible for the daily upkeep of the machines. “When money’s involved, there’s stress. Here, the machines are more player-friendly. This is pure entertainment; you just keep playing.”

INFO 119 Ermou (Entrance from

12 Astiggos), Monastiraki, Tel. (+30) 210.323.8065, museumofillusions.gr. Open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-11:00. Tickets at €9 per person, €6 (children 5-18, under 5s free), €7 (students), €23 (family, two adults and two children)

The museum’s two owners scoured the country for pinball machines, rescuing them from storage rooms in clubs and amusement arcades. They took out classified ads in order to buy them from their previous owners, unnearthing one of the rarest examples they have at a grill house in Crete. Now you can play pinball for hours – without running out of quarters – on machines with themes that reflect the popular trends of their eras, from Star Wars to Guns N’ Roses, The Addams Family and even Playboy Magazine. INFO 2 Makri & 7 Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel. (+30) 210.924.5958,

fb.com/AthensPinballMuseum. Open daily 09:00-23:00. Day ticket at €10. Wheelchair access.

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DISCOVER AC TIVITIES

GREAT ESCAPE

There are rooms to which you have to bring a second set of clothes and shoes with you because you might get wet or muddy; there are some that require agility and strength; and there are even some that aren’t advisable for those with heart conditions! In just four years since the first escape room appeared in Greece, they have become a thundering success. Athens alone now hosts more than 250 interactive spaces – which often feature live performers, too – that call on different combinations of skills and talents from those seeking to escape. Great Escape has its own creative team which devises highly original concepts. “The aim is to activate as many of the players’ senses as possible,” says owner Ioannis Liatsos, who recently took the escape experience to the next level, creating Europe’s biggest escape room – with a floor area of 1,000 square meters. Another room is expected to open soon in a previously abandoned orphanage downtown. INFO 12 Lepeniotou, Tel. (+30) 213.035.4432. greatescape.gr. Tickets from €10 per person.

THE VR PROJECT

I find myself sinking in an immense sea full of coral and with a school of little fish surrounding me. I’ve survived a shipwreck but am not frightened. A whale passes by just before my field of vision is blocked by pink jellyfish – which I’m able to touch and make retract. All of these experiences, which straddle the line between dream and reality, take place in the center of Athens at the VR Project, which showcases the latest immersive virtual reality systems. Before I finish here, I’ll have had the chance to draw in the air, to be a passenger on the Titanic and to experience the 1969 Apollo moon landing alongside Neil Armstrong, all in a multi-award-winning experience created in tandem with NASA. “Once, a customer even cried,” says co-owner Yiannis Parcharidis. “It had been his dream to travel to the Moon. A group of friends who reached the summit of Everest came out of the room overjoyed, but also absolutely drained!” More than 60 virtual reality experiences are on offer; you can visit alone or with others, aged 10 and up. Groups of up to four playing in different rooms can meet up in the same digital environment as avatars. INFO 18 Athinas (3rd floor), Monastiraki, Tel. (+30) 210.382.1832,

thevrproject.gr. Open Tue-Fri 17:00-22:00, Sat 14:00-22:00, Sun 12:0020:00. Tickets at €15 per person for one hour (€10 on Thu), €50 for groups of four for one hour.

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EXPERIENCE ESCAPE

ABOVE THE CLOUDS

Cleanse your soul with clean mountain air and spectacular views from majestic Mt Parnitha National Park â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just 45 minutes outside Athens. BY M A R I A KOR AC H A I / P HOTOS: PE R I K L E S M E R A KOS

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he bracing wind is invigorating. There are fir trees and pine trees everywhere you look. A herd of deer grazing on the grass are not afraid to approach us. In some places, we find ourselves climbing above the clouds. “Have we perhaps turned into angels all of a sudden?” someone asks, smiling. We’re on Mt Parnitha, which, at 1,413m, is the highest mountain in Attica, and only a 45-minute drive away from downtown Athens. In fact, it’s one of the

closest national parks to a capital city anywhere in Europe. Part of the EU’s Natura 2000 network, it boasts over 1,000 species of flora, 37 species of mammals, and 131 species of birds. As you drive up the mountain, you can see the city receding into the distance until, gradually, it seems as though you are looking down on it from an airplane. Don’t give all your attention to the view, however, as road signs warn of deer crossings and the tight hairpin bends require your full concentration.

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EXPERIENCE ESCAPE

The Regency Casino Mont Parnes entrance area.

Mount Parnitha’s deer are not skittish around people and may even let you pet them, although this is not encouraged.

Would-be hikers should download the smartphone app Parnitha TopoGuide, which features a wealth of information on trekking trails and signposted paths in the area. You’ll come across several natural springs, but don’t drink from them. Following the great fire that ravaged the area in 2007, the water in most of the springs is, unfortunately, unfit for human consumption. It’s worth booking an excursion with one of the experienced mountain guides from Trekking Hellas (tel (+30) 6974.871.203, trekking.gr), who organize outdoor activities. One that’s particularly interesting is the mountain hike to Pan’s Cave, which, according to

mythology, was where the god Pan used to live with his nymphs. The cave features many stalagmites and stalactites, has a 14m-high ceiling and is very dark; you’ll only be able to see thanks to the light of the headlamps on your caving helmets. Another highlight offered by Trekking Hellas is the 16km cycling tour, which follows a mostly paved mountain road as it cuts through the pine and fir forest. You can pause at points along the way to enjoy views that extend as far as the Gulf of Evia. Many hikers rest and recover their energy at the mountain refuge of Bafi. At an elevation of 1,161m and in the heart of Parnitha, it offers spectacular views

MANY HIKERS REST AND RECOVER THEIR ENERGY AT THE MOUNTAIN REFUGE OF BAFI; IT OFFERS SPECTACULAR VIEWS OVER THE MOUNTAINTOPS.

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over the mountaintops. More and more foreign hikers have discovered it over the past few years, returning again and again to sit in front of its open fireplace and enjoy its welcoming atmosphere. The rustic Greek cuisine it offers includes fasolada (bean and tomato soup), spaghetti with meat sauce and country-style sausages. On another peak just to the southeast stands the imposing Regency Casino Mont Parnes (Tel. (+30) 210.242.1234, regencycasinos.gr). A luxury hotel favored by celebrities in its heyday during the 1970s, it now operates as a casino. Even if you don’t fancy your luck at the wheel of fortune, the free cable car up to the casino from the foot of the mountain is well worth the ride, taking you on a seven-minute flight above the forest. Because of its moderate climate, Parnitha hosted a tuberculosis sanatorium until the late 1960s. Today, in front of that derelict building stands the Park of Souls, a small open-air gallery of sculptures consisting of wooden figures, in memory of the many patients who received treatment here.

A hearty meal of bean stew, rusks, feta and olives at 1,161 meters after a brisk hike.

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EXPERIENCE VENUES

TAKE THE STAGE Lifting the curtain on Athensâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; most impressive venues for music, opera, dance and theater. BY X E N I A GEORGI A DOU

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MEGARON-ATHENS CONCERT HALL

The Megaron-Athens Concert Hall opened its doors in 1991. After initially focusing solely on music, the institution has embraced an increasingly broad spectrum of musical styles and expanded its program to include other art forms and cultural fields, hosting plays, classical and contemporary dance productions, and art exhibitions. The building’s many performance spaces include the Christos Lambrakis Hall, with 1,961 seats, one of the finest concert halls in the world. The Alexandra Trianti Hall, with 1,750 seats, features state-of-the-art lighting and stage elevator equipment, allowing for great creativity in staging. megaron.gr 11.01.2019: ATHENS STATE ORCHESTRA UNDER THE BATON OF LEON BOTSTEIN The Swiss-born Jewish-American maestro conducts the Athens State Orchestra in works by Greek and foreign composers. 01.02.2019 - 04.02.2019: NEDERLANDS DANS THEATER I The contemporary dance ensemble will perform works that include “Walk the Demon” by Marco Goecke.

27.03.2019: SCHUBERT’S “SONATAS” WITH ELISABETH LEONSKAJA This eminent pianist is considered one of the best interpreters of the Viennese romantics.

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GREEK NATIONAL OPERA The country’s first opera house, founded in 1940, first functioned as a division of the National State Theater. In 1944, it became independent and established its base in the Olympia Theater. In March 2017, the opera moved to its new home, the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, designed by the renowned architect Renzo Piano. The opera’s new, aesthetically pleasing premises feature a grand stage with outstanding acoustics and outfitted with the latest technology, enabling it to host the most ambitious productions. nationalopera.gr 24.02 AND 03, 20, 22, 24.03/2019: DONIZETTI’S “LUCIA DI LAMMERMOOR” This adaptation by the renowned British director Katie Mitchell focuses on the world of women in the 19th century. 06-21.04.2019: STRAVINSKY’S BALLET TRIPTYCH “FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE” Three leading figures from the world of dance, Daphnis Kokkinos, Marco Goecke and Konstantinos Rigos, create choreographies based on works by Igor Stravinsky.

12-22.05.2019: DMITRI SHOSTAKOVICH’S “LADY MACBETH OF MTSENSK” One of the most famous operas of the 20th century, directed by Fanny Ardant.

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ONASSIS CULTURAL CENTER It was shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis’ own wish to create an institution showcasing the different forms of expression central to modern culture, such as music, fine arts, and performance. Inaugurated in December 2010, the impressively futuristic Onassis Cultural Center building is the work of French architectural firm Architecture Studio and features a spectacular 880-seat auditorium, with state-of-the-art facilities. With plenty of other performance and exhibition spaces as well, the OCC happily hosts a range of cultural events. sgt.gr 19.01.2019: “IMPROV 2” Two performances – one by Zoi Efstathiou and Egil Kalman and another by Giorgos Varoutas, Nikos Sidirokastritis and Ko Ishikawa – explore improvisation. FROM 16.01.2019 TO 27.01.2019: CHEKHOV’S “THREE SISTERS” The classic Russian work about the management of expectations. Directed by Dimitris Xanthopoulos.

FROM 06.02.2019 TO 10.02.2019: WILLIAM FORSYTHE’S “A QUIET EVENING OF DANCE” The choreographer invites seven dancers to perform a series of short stories without any musical accompaniment.

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THE NATIONAL THEATER The Greek National Theater, founded in 1901, is based in a renaissance-style building designed by German architect Ernst Ziller on Aghiou Konstantinou, near Omonia Square. The building’s façade was based on Hadrian’s Library and the external decoration is particularly lavish. The interior layout follows the Italian tradition and features two galleries and two balconies. In 2009, this landmark building underwent restoration, and the stage and orchestra equipment were upgraded. Artworks of the highest quality, hidden under paint or plaster in every section of the theater, were uncovered. This renovation has created a veritable jewel of a building, with a stunning central stage proscenium, superb murals in the first-floor foyer and a well-appointed event hall, graced with voluminous crystal chandeliers. n-t.gr UNTIL 24.02.2019: LUIGI PIRANDELLO’S “TONIGHT WE IMPROVISE” The power of an artist’s creation over its creator is showcased in this tragicomedy by the Italian dramatist. Directed by Dimitris Mavrikios.

FROM 10.03.2019 TO 26.05.2019: MOLIÈRE’S “THE MISANTHROPE” This play uses its protagonist to expose the eternal hypocrisy of human society. Directed by Yannis Houvardas.

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MUNICIPAL THEATER OF PIRAEUS With its impressive entrance and Corinthian-style columns, this theater constitutes one of Piraeus’ landmarks. Designed by architect Ioannis Lazarimos, with references to Ernst Ziller and the German school, the building is a monumental work of art. Inaugurated in April 1895, it dominated the city’s cultural life until the end of the 20th century. In 2008, restoration and renovation began and uncovered one of the few surviving baroque stages in Europe. The audience is spread across four levels in orchestra stalls and imposing balconies and galleries. www.dithepi.gr TO 27.01.2019: CHEKHOV’S “UNCLE VANYA” This drama by the Russian playwright depicts characters subjected to a suffocating everyday reality. Directed by Yiorgos Kimoulis. FROM 22.02.2019 TO 21.04.2019: GEORG BÜCHNER’S “WOYZECK” This unfinished masterpiece of world theater comes to Piraeus under the direction of Katerina Evangelatos, one of the finest of an exciting new generation of theater directors. FROM 03.05.2019 TO 09.06.2019: ARTHUR SCHNITZLER’S “CIRCLE OF LOVE” Ten very different people embark on a quest for gratification. Thomas Moschopoulos directs.

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Terracotta Nike (Victory) figures offer visitors a warm welcome to the Acropolis Museum.

DISCOVER THE ESSENTIALS

TIMELESS A tour of the city’s top sites is a unique “life experience,” as you travel through 100

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Â© NIKOS PILOS

ATHENS

BY JOHN LEONA R D

the ages, discovering treasures of Greek history and art.

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he times, they are indeed a-changin’… Our current fascination with electronic devices, social media and a digital world has made traditional ways seem – especially for young people – odd or out of sync with contemporary life. Yet seeking adventure in front of a computer screen, rather than out in the wind and the wild of real nature, also seems odd. These days, fewer student-travelers are taking “grand” tours of the ancient Greek and Roman world, like modern-day Lord Byrons, Charles Cockerells or Sanford Giffords, in search of tangible, inspiring traces of their historical, cultural roots. Nevertheless, Athens is the original 3D adventure site, where visitors can actually connect with the historical past, and with their fellow earthlings – unlike in a computer game or online “virtual tour.” In today’s world, it is more important than ever to savor the depth and breadth of past human thought and achievement, as we can never fully appreciate the present, or envision the future, without first understanding the past. Firsthand exploration of Athens can require stamina and determination, but this is all part of the “journey,” as one follows an enduring trail of archaeological discovery that imparts what it truly means, and what it has meant for millennia, to be a feeling, thinking, creatively expressive human being. Athens offers a panoply of historical, architectural and artistic riches, from majestic ruins and golden artifacts to simple grave enclosures, overgrown ancient streams and panoramic hilltop views. Often, it is the city’s humbler monuments and less conspicuous sights that “speak” to us in the clearest voice.

THE SOUTHWESTERN HILLS

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ACROPOLIS AREA

THE BYZANTINE & CHRISTIAN MUSEUM

THE MUSEUM OF THE ANCIENT AGORA

THE NUMISMATIC MUSEUM OF ATHENS © JAIME ARDILES-ARCE

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THE MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART

KERAMEIKOS

ACROPOLIS AREA

The Sacred Rock… THE place for hardrockin’ history lovers! Athena’s Parthenon tops the bill, backed up by the Erechtheion, the Propylaia and the recently-restored Temple of Athena Nike. Around the slopes, don’t miss the Theater of Dionysus, the Sanctuary of Asclepius, the Odeon (“Music Hall”) of Herodes Atticus and the cave shrines of Pan and other ancient gods. On the adjacent Areopagus, Saint Paul gave one of his most powerful anti-pagan speeches. THE ACROPOLIS • Tel. (+30) 210.321.4172 • Open daily 08:00-17:00 (winter hours) • Admission: €10 (There is also a €30 ticket that allows admission to all main archaeological sites in Athens)

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

The Acropolis Museum is a must-see when visiting the Sacred Rock, whether you’re pining for sculpture, architecture, mythical figures, bronze weaponry, ancient magic, or painted vases illuminating the lives of ancient Athenians. Here, you’ll find the Parthenon’s exquisitely carved decorations 104

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and the elegant Caryatids, in a new building that is itself a modern classic. 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou Tel. (+30) 210.900.0900 • www.theacropolismuseum.gr • Admission: €5 • Open: Mon-Thu 08:00-17:00, Frib 09:0022:00, Sat & Sun 09:00-20:00, (winter hours) • •

THE MUSEUM OF THE ANCIENT AGORA

Get a peek at the lives of ancient Athens’ diverse citizenry, traces of whose daily activities or ultimate fate are displayed in the Stoa of Attalos, a 2nd c. BC “shopping mall.” Don’t miss the warrior’s tomb with its “killed” sword; the eyelets and hobnails from Simon the Shoemaker’s House; the juryselection machine; and the pot-shard ballots nominating Themistocles (and other figures of resentment) for ostracism. AGORA AND MUSEUM • 24 Adrianou • Tel. (+30) 210.321.0185 • Open daily 08:00-15:00, (winter hours) • Admission: €4

THE BENAKI MUSEUM

THE ROMAN AGORA

The Romans, Greece’s new overlords, revitalized aging, venerable Athens with a new agora, the personal project of Julius Caesar and his nephew Octavian (Augustus). Once home to merchants, shoppers and semi-literate prostitutes who left messages scratched on the market’s columns, the area boasts a number of distinctive monuments, including the Tower of the Winds, an ornate Ottoman-era seminary gateway and the newly restored Fethiye Mosque (17th c.). •

6 Pelopida

Tel. (+30) 210.324.5220 Open daily 08:00-15:00 (winter hours) • Admission: €3 • •

THE CITY OF HADRIAN (HADRIANOPOLIS)

This “new” district of Athens was developed by Hadrian, the greatest of Roman Hellenophiles. The district’s monumental entrance was the Arch of Hadrian, beyond which rose the enormous Temple of Olympian Zeus (or Olympieion). The banks of the Ilissos River, covered with shrines, temples and lush vegetation, made this area a particularly pleasant place to stroll.

DISCOVER THE ESSENTIALS

THE ROMAN AGORA

OLYMPIEION • Entrance from Vasilissis Olgas • Tel. (+30) 210.922.6330 • Open daily 08:00-15:00 (winter hours) • Admission: €3

KERAMEIKOS

A riverine, clay-rich environment at the northwestern extremity of ancient Athens, Kerameikos was a pottery-production area that was also frequented by soldiers and prostitutes. Others came, too, as it was from here, through the Dipylon and Sacred Gates, that Athenians accessed the common and state cemeteries and set off on the annual procession to Eleusis. Plato’s extramural academy was a short walk away. 148 Ermou • Tel. (+30) 210.346.3552 Open daily: 8:00-15:00 (winter hours) • Admission: €4 • •

THE SOUTHWESTERN HILLS

The Pnyx Hill, southwest of the Acropolis, is home to a natural amphitheater once used for the People’s Assembly (Ekklesia). Here, ancient statesmen played to the crowds, delivering fiery speeches from a rock-cut rostrum with a panoramic view of

the Sacred Rock and Athenian Agora. On the adjoining Hill of the Muses stands the Filopappos Monument, a prominent tomb for an exiled Commagene prince.

THE ATHENIAN AGORA

The heart of ancient Athens, the Agora was the city’s central square, market place and governmental headquarters, where adult citizens, high or low, strolled, shopped, reported for jury duty, watched street performers and offered sacrifices, crossing paths with the likes of Themistocles, Pericles and Socrates. The Temple of Hephaestus and Athena marked the traditional metalworkers’ district, while today the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos contains the Museum of the Ancient Agora.

PLAKA

Hadrian also funded a new forum (agora), complete with a library and lecture halls. The Library of Hadrian’s central court later hosted two early Christian churches. East of the Acropolis stands the Lysikrates Monument, erected by a producer to commemorate his victory in the Theater of Dionysus. Lord Byron once used the hollow base of this oversized trophy-stand as his private study.

THE LIBRARY OF HADRIAN • 3 Areos • Tel. (+30) 210.324.9350 • Open daily 08:00-15:00 • Admission: €4

PANATHENAIC STADIUM

Meant primarily to serve Athens’ Panathenaic Games, the “Kallimarmaro” stadium was built in the 4th c. BC by Lykourgos, but given a marble veneering by Herodes Atticus almost five centuries later. After an extensive restoration project, the first modern Olympics were hosted here in 1896. This structure remains an extraordinary monument to timeless athletic achievement! Vasileos Konstantinou (opposite the statue of the Discus Thrower) • Tel. (+30) 210.752.2984-6 • Open daily 07:30-17:00 (winter hours) • Admission: €5 (with a guide) •

THE NUMISMATIC MUSEUM OF ATHENS

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THE CITY OF HADRIAN (HADRIANOPOLIS)

mansion now hosts the Numismatic Museum. From its lavishly painted walls and decorative marble floors to brilliant displays of gold, silver and bronze coins, this unique exhibition space commemorates the influential role of money throughout history. 12 Panepistimiou • Tel. (+30) 210.363.2057 • Open: Tue-Sun 08:30-15:30 • Admission: €6 •

THE NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM One of the world’s truly great museums, where you’ll find exquisitely sculpted masterpieces of bronze and marble; golden artifacts from Mycenaean palaces; delightful traces of Santorini’s lively but ill-fated prehistoric town of Akrotiri; and a huge collection of vases with painted scenes featuring gods, heroes, favorite myths and fascinating glimpses into ancient life. 44 Patission Tel. (+30) 213.214.4800 • Open: Mon 13:00-20:00, Tue-Sun 09:00-16:00 (winter hours) • Admission: €5 • •

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THE BYZANTINE & CHRISTIAN MUSEUM

The Villa Ilissia – another 19th-century architectural gem that served as the winter palace of the Duchess of Plaisance, a French-American philhellene – now contains the BCM. Here, you’ll see the splendor and the far-reaching influence of Byzantium and of Greece’s post-Byzantine Christian artists. 22 Vasilissis Sofias Tel. (+30) 213.213.9500 • Open: Tue-Sun 09:00-16:00, Mon closed. • Admission: €4 • •

THE MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART

Among the best museums in Athens is the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art, which focuses on prehistoric Cycladic culture while also offering thematic exhibits that illustrate ancient Greek art (2000 BC-AD 395), gods and heroes, daily life, warfare and death. Also not to be missed are the unique Cypriot collection and – for kids – engaging interactive displays, touch screens and two short films. •

4 Neophytou Douka

Tel. (+30) 210.722.8321-3 Open: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat: 10:00-17:00, Thu: 10:00-20:00, Sun: 11:00-17:00, Tue closed. • Admission: €7 • •

THE BENAKI MUSEUM

The Benaki Museum in Kolonaki offers a broad collection of ancient, medieval, Greek-Revolution-era and early modern artifacts and art, highlighting the full spectrum of Greece’s history and civilization. Fascinating exhibitions of contemporary art and photography are also available at the Pireos Street Annex, while Near Eastern art, jewelry, textiles, rare navigational devices and much more are displayed at the Benaki’s Islamic Art Museum in the Kerameikos district. 1 Koumpari Tel. (+30) 210.367.1000 • Open: Wed, Fri: 10:00-18:00, Thu, Sat: 10:00-00:00, Sun: 10:00-16:00 • Admission: €9 • •

ADVERTORIAL

THYROID GLAND THE GL AND OF LIFE BY DR PARI RAPTI, ENDOCRINOLOGIST

Consisting of two lobes that are joined by an isthmus, the thyroid is an endocrine gland located in the lower part of the neck. It produces two active hormones, thyroxine (T4) and triiodothyronine (T3), which have multiple and important functions in the body. The thyroid also produces calcitonin, the hormone which regulates the level of calcium in the blood. The physiological composition and rate of thyroid hormone production also depends on the basic raw material, iodine. Thyroid hormones are very important biologically. There are very few cells in the body that are not, directly or indirectly, stimulated by them. There are two types of thyroid disorders: functional disorders, such as hyperthyroidism, hypothyroidism and thyroiditis; and morphological disorders, such as thyroid nodules. Hyperthyroidism, in its typical form, is characterized by particularly pronounced and obvious symptoms. People with the dysfunction can be irritable, hyperactive, nervous and affectionate. They speak intensely and quickly change the subject of discussion. They often suffer from panic attacks or emotional breakdowns for no particular reason, suffer from insomnia and cannot stand heat. They can also have intense sweating and their skin is almost always hot and moist. Furthermore, their hair is thin and sparse, while the hands, when stretched, shake lightly. Also they can have increased heartbeat, dyspnea and arrhythmia, itchiness and eye problems, such as redness, dryness or bad vision.

The physician can document thyroid disease from clinical symptoms and laboratory tests. There are three therapies for hyperthyroidism: medication that inhibits the synthesis of thyroid hormones, the administration of radioactive iodine and surgery. The choice of the treatment depends on a number of factors, including the patientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s age, thyroid size and frequency of relapse. The first symptoms of hypothyroidism, another thyroid disease, may be diminished strength and fatigue. The effects on the skin are dehydration (dry skin), scaly skin and hair loss, the patient also has bradycardia (slow heartbeat), shortness of breath and slow movements and thoughts. Weight gain may be observed without a corresponding increase in food consumption. However, the symptoms of subclinical hypothyroidism are not always distinct, and may be misdiagnosed as the symptoms of another disease. To treat hypothyroidism, synthetic thyroxine is usually administered. The thyroid may be impaired due to chronic inflammatory disorders such as chronic autoimmune thyroiditis or Hashimotoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thyroiditis, which is one of the most common causes of hypothyroidism. It develops slowly, with no intense symptoms at the beginning. The symptoms of hypothyroidism appear mildly and slowly over the years. The four basic examinations of the thyroid function are palpation of the neck, Hormonal Assay, thyroid ultrasound and scintigraphy.

DR PARI RAPTI ENDOCRINOLOGIST email: pari@rapti.gr | www.rapti.gr

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Â© MINISTRY OF CULTURE & SPORTS, NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

DISCOVER ANTIQUITIES

THE ANCIENT MENAGERIE From cats and dogs to singing insects and drunken parrots, the ancient Greeks and Romans shared a deep and intimate connection with the animal kingdom. BY JOHN L EONA R D / PHOTOS: DIM ITR IS TSOU MPL EK AS

abbits, dogs, snakes and birds… Everywhere we look in the archaeological and literary records of the classical world, it seems we find animals of almost every variety. Clearly, animals in ancient times featured commonly in people’s daily experiences, in popular storytelling and in mythological beliefs; their likenesses appear in vase paintings, frescoes, mosaics, stone sculptures and ceramic figurines, as well as on utilitarian or decorative objects of intricately carved ivory or hammered gold. Living in an age prior to mechanization, much of the ancient Greek and Roman populations resided in rural areas outside cities, so they had more regular contact and firsthand familiarity with animals than most of us do today.

A CLOSE BOND Even in urban settings, humans and their animals tended to share space and live more closely together than we might find comfortable today. Livestock, including calves, sheep, goats and pigs, were used for pious sacrifices. Lions, tigers, bears and other wild creatures became the focus of popular and elite entertainment;

either hunted in nature or captured and pitted against each other - or human combatants - in bloody arena contests. Horses and other draft or pack animals labored on farms, but in wartime they were called up for duty on the battlefield, occasionally serving alongside elephants. At all levels of society, animals played key roles in public, religious and military life. However, it’s plain to see in ancient art and literature that the closest bond was felt in the home, between masters or mistresses and their beloved domestic pets. Most denizens of the ancient world loved and appreciated their animal companions, even mourning them and erecting commemorative markers over their graves when they died. Aristotle, the first philosopher to undertake the formal study and classification of animals, viewed them as irrational creatures of lesser moral rank, placed on earth solely to serve people. Other thinkers had greater esteem for them, including Pythagoras, who suggested animals possessed the reincarnated souls of human beings, after reportedly having witnessed the beating of a yelping puppy.

HAPPY LITTLE MASTER A smiling young boy holding his dog, who seems full of energy and looks up at his little master adoringly. The boy is wearing a “chlamys” (short cloak) thrown over his left shoulder. Late 1st c. BC/early 1st c. AD; National Archaeological Museum. The affection that children in antiquity felt for their pets is plain to see throughout ancient art.

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BELOVED CREATURES The poignant “Little Refugee” (1st c. BC), top right, and several grave steles from Classical times, all displayed in the National Archaeological Museum, capturing in art the close bond that existed in ancient Greece between people and their animals. 110

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LOYAL FRIEND

Canine grave monument, Piraeus (370-360 BC). Seemingly too gentle to be of the fierce Molossian breed Odysseus’ swineherd Eumaeus kept, this humble hound was more likely one of the faithful “table dogs” often depicted in vase paintings, always close at hand and ready for a tasty handout, but here anxiously mourning his deceased master.

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HOUSEHOLD COMPANIONS take precious care of two she-bears, Mica Aurea (Gold Flake) Within the home and garden, the range of animals kept as and Innocentia (Innocence), to whom he apparently handed pets was almost boundless, including dogs, ducks, geese, caged over his enemies as playthings. birds, rabbits, hares, tortoises, goats, quail and mice. Snakes RAISING THE ALARM had chthonic (underworld), spiritual significance, but were also Household security was always a concern in antiquity. Caemployed – along with cats, ferrets or other weasels – to keep nines were common gatekeepers – as mosaic thresholds in rodents at bay. Chirping insects were treated like songbirds, with Pompeii reveal with their inscriptions “Cave Canem” (Beware children weaving small boxes from reeds or slender branches of the Dog). Geese, a favorite pet of Peneloto accommodate their pet locusts, crickets and pe, could similarly serve a protective purpose. cicadas. Boys seeking amusement are reported Caged birds, too, might alert homeowners to by a scholar writing on Aristophanes’ “Wasps” visitors, but were more often kept for their cheerto have caught large beetles and tethered them ful chirping. Talking green parrots, popular in with a thread tied to one leg – a practice also Rome’s affluent homes, are described by Pliny seen in red-figure vase paintings. Other unusual WILD STEED as imports from India and “especially frolicsome pets included apes and monkeys (often taught Marble grave stele under the influence of wine.” Even more osto perform tricks), fawns and adult deer, gazelle, (early 3rd c. BC), known as tentatious and expensive were pet peacocks, foxes and small mountain cats. Domesticated “The Ethiopian” from its ridiculed alike by Greek comedic playwrights cats only became widespread during Roman depiction of a young groom, and Roman moralists. times, perhaps due to increasing trade with seemingly African, who is Egypt. trying to soothe a spirited horse A FAITHFUL FRIEND adorned with the skin of a fierce wild animal, Above all, pets provided comforting comDIVINE PETS perhaps a wolf; found during panionship, best displayed by the loyal dog. Religious reverence may have played a part excavations at the site of the Ancient Greece’s most illustrious hound was in the selection of pets, as certain animals were Athens Railway Station probably faithful Argos, who patiently awaited symbolic of a particular god or goddess. Sacred in 1948. Odysseus’ return from Troy, and then, after their to Apollo and Artemis, for example, was the reunion, died contentedly. Among valued canine quail (ortyx) – likely a common sight at the divine twins’ central-Cycladic sanctuary on Delos, breeds were Molossian, Laconian and Cretan originally known as Ortygia or “Quail Island.” guard dogs and the ubiquitous Melitan lap dog Pindar (5th century BC) and later mythographers from Malta. The swineherd Eumaeus likely kept relate that Asterie, sister of Leto (who bore the Molossians, as did nouveau riche Trimalchio, twins on Delos), escaped from Zeus’ advances by transforming whose enormous beast Scylax, according to the Roman writer herself into a quail, dropping into the Aegean Sea, then rising Petronius, caused a furious fracas during a banquet – attacking again as an island. Quails thus possessed a divine spirit and a smaller dog, upsetting a table lamp, smashing all the wine were coveted for their pleasing voices and colorful plumage. cups and sprinkling the guests with hot oil. Less ferocious was Far wilder pets are known from the Roman era, when the Publius’ little Issa, extolled by Martial: “More pure than the kiss emperors Domitian and Caracalla kept lions in their palaces. of a dove… more loving than any maiden… dearer than Indian Caracalla’s beloved companion, Acinaces, ate with him at table gems… She lies reclined upon his neck, and sleeps… and has and slept in his master’s chamber. Valentinian I had his servants never sullied the coverlet with a single spot…”

ANCIENT GREECE’S MOST ILLUSTRIOUS HOUND WAS PROBABLY FAITHFUL ARGOS, WHO PATIENTLY AWAITED ODYSSEUS’ RETURN FROM TROY AND THEN, AFTER THEIR REUNION, DIED CONTENTEDLY.

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A BELOVED PARADOX

During a visit to Greece in the 19th century, French writer Edmond About diagnosed a number of Greek idiosyncracies that hold true to this day.

Â© NATIONAL HISTORICAL MUSEUM/MINISTRY OF CULTURE & SPORTS

BY TA K I S T H E OD OROP OU L O S

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rançois-René de Chateaubriand had great confidence in his literary abilities – and consequently in his imagination. While standing on a hill overlooking the Evrota River valley, the author of “Itinéraire de Paris à Jérusalem” (Itinerary from Paris to Jerusalem) saw a few white stones among the olive trees in the distance and decided they must mark the tomb of King Leonidas. He mounted his horse and rode at a gallop in that direction, shouting “Leonidas! Leonidas!” and waiting in vain for a response. Chateaubriand visited Greece at the beginning of the 19th century, when Athens was still a small village, the Acropolis surrounded by pastureland, and he hurried through. Greece disappointed him, just as it always disappoints its admirers, those who dream of its charms before they see its reality. That’s how the romantics were: forever in love, forever disappointed by what they saw before their eyes. Before leaving Paris, Chateaubriand arranged to meet Comtesse de Noailles somewhere in Spain. He promised to have completed the chronicle of his Mediterranean tour by then. He traveled through Asia Minor, Palestine, Egypt, Tunisia and Spain, but he devoted a few of the most beautiful pages in all of world literature to his description of the Acropolis. I’ll offer one observation as an example: he never saw the marbles as white. Rather, Chateaubriand saw columns coated with the patina of time, and saw, too, how the light played on them, transforming their color to rose, orange or yellow, depending on the time of day. But never white. It is as if he was providing a counterpoint to Johann Winckelmann, whose theory concerning “white Greece” shaped educated Europeans’ views towards a country emerging slowly from so many centuries of deep slumber and silence. When Chateaubriand visited Greece, Lord Elgin had already come and gone. The journey to the southernmost tip of the Balkan peninsula required not only daring and a strong constitution, but cultural awareness. Greece was a part of his civilization, yet one that remained under Ottoman rule. As is well known, when the revolution broke out in 1821, Chateaubriand championed the Greeks, along with Delacroix and Hugo, who had never visited its lands.

Interest in politics was not limited to the rich or politically ambitious, as most Greeks had a healthy appetite for debate. This Athens kafeneio, like many during Ottoman times, was a stage for political controversy. Watercolor on paper by Ludwig Köllnberger, 1836 (copy). AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

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Bandits with a gang of Arvanites, 1870.

The Greece that Edmond François Valentin About visited later, in 1852, had already been recognized as an independent state, or rather a “statelet,” still under the rule of King Otto and the Bavarians. It had lost the romantic virginity it held for all those who came before – Chateaubriand, Edgar Quinet and Alphonse de Lamartine, to speak only of the French. Of course, there was also the great figure of Lord Byron, who died in Messolongi. Every March 25th, schoolchildren of my generation saw the portrait of Byron dressed in Greek style in colorful engravings when we celebrated the heroes of the Revolution. Our teachers, not wanting to tarnish his aura of heroism, neglected to mention that he died of illness. When About visited Greece, this was already history. The French Archaeological School, the oldest of all such institutions, was already operating in Athens. About was a journalist and novelist who came in the company of some archaeologist friends. He was also a republican, and he had left a France where Napoleon III had abolished the Second Republic. He came to a Greece which, on the one hand, had been integrated into the status quo of the age, fashioned as a nation-state, yet which also maintained its right to paradox. The greatest endowment bestowed upon us through About’s insightful way of seeing the 116

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world is in his description of a Greece seemingly destined to remain the paradox that it always was. About wrote two books featuring Greece. One bore the title “La Grece contemporaine” (Contemporary Greece), and chronicled his travels and memories from the two years he lived in this young nation with an ancient history. It has been recently republished, under the title “Otto’s Greece.” The second is a novel, “Le Roi des Montagnes” (The King of the Mountains). It is a pleasurable narrative that has as much to tell a contemporary reader about the Greece of that era as hundreds of pages of historical research could. About was a journalist in an age when anyone who wrote for a newspaper or periodical or spoke publicly possessed a necessary erudition, something which is no longer required. He had an extensive knowledge of Greece and of Greek civilization. Before his arrival, he wrote that he “dreamed” of Greece during the hours he spent in the library studying Greek. To him, then, contemporary Greece may have been a political, economic, and social reality, but it hadn’t lost that dreamlike quality. His classical studies helped preserve that veneer. The geography of the region helped as well. Crossing the Mediterranean from Toulon or Marseilles to Piraeus remained a

DISCOVER INSIGHT

Athenian ladies dressed in costumes designed by Queen Amalia join in Greek dances.

quasi-adventure. The journey overland through Italy may have saved the trouble of seasickness, but was time-consuming and demanded the continual display of travel documents, with all that entailed. The Ottoman Balkans were best avoided. The traveler had every right to feel like the hero of a noteworthy adventure – a fact that obliged him to keep his eyes open and his wits about him. The narrator of “The King of the Mountains” is a young German botanist, who comes to Athens to collect material which he hopes will further his career and supplement his meager income. The protagonist is the “king” himself, the brigand Hadgi-Stavros, whose men control the Attica peninsula in an age when the Greek state claims to have banished brigandry from its lands. “Brigandry” captures the activities of revolutionary irregulars who, after independence, were unable to find a place in the civil sphere, or who thought that continuing their exploits would prove more profitable than whatever position was offered them by the new independent Greek state. We shouldn’t forget that the first revolutionaries in Greek lands were the “klephts.” These groups of bandits were wellversed in guerrilla warfare and showed extraordinary endurance in the face of the hardships they suffered. They robbed

both Ottomans and their fellow Greeks. After the revolution, they preferred to risk their lives rather than pay taxes to the newly-formed state. Some of the most prominent klephts had previously been drafted by the Ottomans to manage relations with the local population. Klephts who had been taken in by the administration of that era were known as “armatoli” and, together, they would tame any resistance and manage the public coffers. They controlled entire regions and ensured public peace, as well as the economics of Ottoman rule. But they had also learned the art of war, which is why they proved useful to the Greeks during the uprising after 1821. As for the role of brigandry in the history of the Greek people, please don’t be shocked. It is an ancient story. All one needs to read to confirm this is Thucydides’ introduction to his “History of the Peloponnesian War.” For anyone with experience of life in contemporary Greece, it will suffice to retain two fundamental points from this story.The first is the people’s relationship to the state. If the state can’t find a place in society for a particular individual, that person feels betrayed and has no reason whatsoever to respect the state or obey its rules. The second point, which arises from the first, regards the individual’s relationship to taxation. From the moment AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

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that the state has betrayed you, you have no reason to pay it. The consistency of Greek society on this point is remarkable. In the mid-19th century, when About visited the nation, the problem was who would be given positions in the state apparatus and who would pay taxes. In 2018, the world has changed, the words we use are different, but the fundamental points remain the same. As About says – I can quote him by heart – “Greeks identify freedom with disobedience before the law.” How clearly he saw into our collective character, even though he only lived among us for two years. And how impressive it is that much of what he saw in 1852 still applies today. The novel “The King of the Mountains” is about a brigand who has set up shop somewhere in Hasia, to whom others bring their loot. His men abduct the German botanist and an English lady with her daughter, all of whom believed assurances made to them that brigandry had been banished from the land. The “king” welcomes them with the graciousness suited to his position, makes sure they want for nothing, and lays out his business plans. The “king” works with a bank in London, where the hostages’ friends must deposit their ransom. What could be simpler than that? A business deal like any other. But the botanist tricks him, saying that he will have to provide a receipt for the sums deposited – thereby admitting his guilt – and the brigand, thinking this entirely normal, accepts. The end of the novel conveys, in the strongest way possible, the physiognomy of a Greece teetering on the edge of schizophrenia. On the one hand, an official state that upholds – most of the time – the rules of the status quo, and on the other hand, a society that follows its own rules and conforms to its own status quo. The two parts coexist: the unfortunate German botanist meets Hadgi-Stavros at a fancy ball. The brigand king is there because he has ambitions to obtain a ministry, perhaps even become secretary of justice. Consider, if you will, the paradox involved in that. (It reminds me

of Don Corleone’s hope in “The Godfather” that his son might one day become a senator.) For many generations of Greeks, “The King of the Mountains” was required reading. It was even more widely read than About’s travel memoir – perhaps because it partook in the freedom of novelistic writing, which doesn’t require the reader to believe in the reality of what it describes. In “Otto’s Greece,” About attempted a portrait of the country that was not at all flattering, especially to those who felt a mirror was being held up to them as they read. Attacks can be borne, but it is difficult to bear a penetrating gaze which strips you down. About described the reality he saw before him with sincere interest in, and sympathy for, the people, but he was full of candor and a willingness to deliver unflinching judgments. About’s critiques range from the simple to the complex. He doesn’t find Greek women beautiful, or, at least, as he had imagined them. What is to be done about that? He wasn’t, to be sure, an idiot; he wasn’t expecting that in the Athens of the 1850s he’d find himself on the Champs-Elysées or the other grand boulevards of Paris, but he did observe that he met with so many lawyers and doctors that he began to wonder how many courts and how many patients would be required – not just in this small country, but in the entire region – in order to keep them all in business. Of course, he couldn’t know that Greece, approximately two hundred years later, would continue to create laws to keep its lawyers in business. As we’ve learned, Greek society may have many faults, but it also has a steady set of values. It continues to produce doctors and lawyers, and to create the proper conditions to maintain them. How would they survive without the country’s amazing, prehistoric structure of bureaucracy? About did not expect that a statelet born of debt from the guts of the Ottoman Empire just a few decades earlier would have the same infrastructure as Europe during the industrial revolution.

IF THE STATE CAN’T FIND A PLACE IN SOCIETY FOR A PARTICULAR INDIVIDUAL, THAT PERSON FEELS BETRAYED AND HAS NO REASON WHATSOEVER TO RESPECT THE STATE OR OBEY ITS RULES.

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FROM THE BOOK “ATHENS 1839-1900. A PHOTOGRAPHIC RECORD” OF BENAKI MUSEUM, PRIVATE COLLECTION

Athenians visiting the Acropolis, 1868.

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The Tower of the Winds, 1853-54.

He describes a businessman he met who wanted to take part in the Paris Industrial Exposition, exhibiting olives and raisins. These were honorable goods from Greek soil, but irrelevant to the industrial revolution that had already begun to break out in the rest of Europe. (Let us not show contempt for this businessman – just as About did not show him contempt.) The businessman was looking toward Europe, as did all the dynamic elements of 19th century Greek society. He simply didn’t suspect that the distance between himself and his destination was quite so great. He thought he could take off his traditional fustanella and don a pair of trousers, as he thought industry was an activity like the harvesting of olives. He wanted to become like the other Europeans he admired, but didn’t have the means to understand either their language or their way of life. Here we see – in strong relief – the “Greek paradox” that About encountered. The Greeks were a peaceful, mostly sober people who wanted to be integrated into the history of the European world. They didn’t, however, want to cede even an inch on their beliefs or way of life. In a village in Messinia, if I’m not mistaken, where silk was produced, About tried to show them how silk was made 120

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in France, which took far less time. He described their enthusiasm: for two days and nights, the village spoke of nothing else. Grandsons called their grandfathers, fathers called their sons, and so on and so forth, to hear what the Frenchman had to say. On the third day, they continued their labors in their accustomed fashion. They were curious – but that’s as far as they went. About presents the Greeks as curious and peace-loving; so peace-loving that, in the battles of the Revolution, they put the philhellenes on the front lines, while they pushed from behind. Observations like this might seem “unseemly” to About’s Greek reader, but they’re the very foundation of our collective consciousness. Foreigners on the front line, us behind. At the end of the day, I don’t know if there’s an equivalent to the word “philhellene” for any other European nation. But philhellenism was one of the factors that shaped the fate of contemporary Greece, making the country believe it was unique. Greece: the beloved paradox of European civilization. The Greeks’ love of equality doesn’t allow them to accept anyone or anything that stands apart. This is perhaps the French traveler’s most timely observation about the Greek collective con-

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Left: Traditional Attica dress, 1855 Right: General Christodoulos Hadjipetros, 1855.

sciousness. The lovable paradox abhors anything exceptional, including excellence, and defines freedom as freedom from law; its prime interest is to maintain its own state of paradoxicality. There were other travelers, too, more famous than About. In addition to Chateaubriand, there was Ernest Renan (with his incredible “Prayer on the Acropolis”) and even Charles Maurras. Maurras came to Greece in 1896 as a reporter to cover the first modern Olympic Games, and adopted the modern Greek narrative, which presented the marathon champion Spyros Louis as the direct descendent of the ancient Greeks. Of course, Maurras had his own narrative of “Greco-Roman civilization” in mind, a theory that anointed him the spiritual father of the French far right. He died seven years after the end of World War II, shortly after his release from prison, having been convicted of collaborating with the Germans. These men weren’t like About, you’ll say – and yet all were characteristic examples of the manner in which the French travelers saw this small country in the southern Balkans: either with Chateaubriand’s romanticism, About’s realism, or Maurras’s idealism, but always with an interest and curiosity that, in the end, acted to fortify the coexistence of the

Greek paradox with the European status quo. Returning to Paris after his Greek adventure, Edmond About became the publisher of a newspaper that opposed the regime of Napoleon III. He was given an academic position but died before he could assume it. His fame as a writer in his home country was crushed between the massive stones that supported the acknowledged canon of 19th-century French literature. In Greece, his books were read and forgotten, probably because they didn’t meet the demands of a narcissistic readership. Then, in 2018, the Greek reissue of “Otto’s Greece” met with unexpected success. This is one of the positive results of the crisis: certain steps are being taken toward self-awareness and deliverance from the weight of collective narcissism. It would seem that a large part of Greek society now understands that the gaze of an outsider often discerns more truth than the mirror affords.

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THE SPIRIT OF THE PAST

Housed in the Old Parliament building, the National Historical Museum brings to life the story of the founding of Greece. BY M A R I A D. EF TH Y M IOU* / PHOTOS: DI M I TR IS TSOU M PL EK A S

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Young visitors learn all about the heroes of the 1821 Greek War of Independence and their struggle.

The Congress Hall of the Old Parliament constitutes the heart of the museum and hosts temporary exhibitions in its balcony area.

n equestrian statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, one of the heroes of the Greek War of Independence (1821-1829), stands guard outside the Old Parliament building in central Athens. For the last 60 years, following the Greek Parliament’s move to its current location on Syntagma Square (barely 300m away), this stately building has housed the National Historical Museum. Visitors

enter via a majestic flight of marble steps framed by two naval cannons, also from the Greek War of Independence, that point up at the sky like sleepless defenders of the precious exhibits housed inside.

LIVING HISTORY The foyer is forever ringing with the peal of children’s voices, since every year hundreds of schools come from across

the country to visit this splendid museum. One of the first stops for these young visitors is the building’s debating chamber, designed by the French architect François Boulanger and created to house the Greek Parliament and the Senate. It operated as such from 1875 to 1935, when the parliament was relocated to the former palace of the first monarch of modern Greece, King Otto. The beautiful chamber is lofty and imAT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

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posing, crowned by the decorated guardrails of the public galleries. Today, it hosts formal events and important conferences. During its time as the seat of the national parliament, however, it bore witness to a particularly troubled period for Greece and was the scene of stormy political confrontations and debates featuring major political figures, including Alexandros Koumoundouros, Charilaos Trikoupis and Eleftherios Venizelos. In 1905, on the marble steps outside, Greece’s prime minister Theodoros Diligiannis was assassinated by a shady character from the city’s criminal underworld.

TO THIS DAY, THE NATIONAL HISTORICAL MUSEUM’S HIGH VISITOR NUMBERS PROVE ITS POPULARITY REMAINS UNFAILING.

EARLY BEGINNINGS The Historical and Ethnological Society of Greece was founded in 1882 and immediately set out to preserve documents and objects relating to modern Greek history, Frankish and Ottoman rule, and the Greek War of Independence. At that time, a number of that war’s protagonists were still alive. Members of the society literally knocked on doors to raise support for their endeavor. They scoured the country for important items, asking around and buying them up whenever the opportunity arose. By the mid-20th century, they had succeeded in accumulating thousands of pieces, which they had safeguarded through two world wars and many other disturbances, by storing them in crates at secure locations during periods of crisis. In 1960, the society took over the Old 124

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Greek warships were adorned with carved wooden mastheads depicting ancient heroes.

The armor and weapons of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, hero of the Greek War of Independence.

The museum’s permanent exhibition includes an exhibition space dedicated to the era of Ioannis Kapodistrias and King Otto.

Schoolchildren modeling traditional costumes take part in an educational program in the Folklore Collection hall.

The museum’s traditional festive and bridal costumes are among the oldest and rarest surviving examples in Greece.

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Parliament building in order to house and exhibit the precious historical objects, books and documents it held in its possession. Two years later, in 1962, the exhibits went on permanent public display. To this day, the National Historical Museum’s high visitor numbers prove its popularity remains unfailing.

The equestrian statue of Theodoros Kolokotronis at the National Historical Museum’s entrance is a major Athenian landmark.

death mask of Kolokotronis, the illustrious revolutionary military leader who led troops in the Peloponnese. His imposing bronze statue (a 1904 work by Lazaros Sochos) outside the museum is also an Athens landmark. To commemorate the 200th anniversary of the 1821 Revolution, the museum is planning a wide range of events and activities.

TRADITIONAL COSTUMES AND… PLAYMOBIL FIGURES The other half of the exhibition space is dedicated to the history of Greece as an independent state, including its military exploits and its political tribulations. On display are objects and furniture from the royal palaces, which belonged to kings, gentlemen of the court and ladies in waiting. You can see the signed declarations from the uprising known as the September 3 Revolution, which led to the 1843 reform of the Greek constitution from absolute to constitutional monarchy. There is also furniture and personal items which belonged to Charilaos Trikoupis and Eleftherios Venizelos, the most prom-

inent Greek politicians during the 19th and early 20th centuries respectively. The most impressive corner of the museum houses a resplendent collection of traditional local costumes from the period of Ottoman rule; it’s a veritable feast of colors, needlework and jewelry from times long past. Alongside these garments, you can see intricate Playmobil figures dressed in miniature replicas (created by an inspired contemporary craftsman) of some of these traditional costumes. It’s only fitting that the spirit of the past prevails inside the museum, and yet, as you conclude your visit and step back outside, it’s your present that feels slightly altered; the Athenian light feels even brighter and the life unfolding across the capital acquires a new frame of reference, thanks to what you’ve learned about the country’s tumultuous past.

* Assistant Professor of History at the National and Kapodistrian University of Athens

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THE MUSEUM’S SOUL The museum’s permanent collection is on display throughout the building’s corridors and in what were once the offices of members of parliament, which surround the debating chamber. Half of the space is dedicated to the periods of Frankish and Ottoman rule, the 1821 Revolution and further clashes with the Ottomans. In this section, you can see engraved prints, weapons and body armor from knights and warriors from the Frankish period as well as the weapons and the cane of Ali Pasha, the celebrated ruler of Ioannina (1788-1822), whose conflict with the sultan indirectly provided significant help to the Greek struggle for freedom. Also on display are objects, paintings and holy icons from the numerous philhellenic societies that were formed across Europe in this period and whose support contributed decisively to Greece’s struggle for independence - and eventual victory in 1830. Ships from the Greek navy played a critical role during the War of Independence, and figureheads, navigation instruments, standards, flags and cannons from these vessels take particular pride of place. It would be hard for anyone - especially a historian - to single out one particular item from everything on display, but if I had to choose one thing, I would pause for a moment at the 1797 Charta of Rigas Feraios, a proposed constitution for what Feraios envisioned would be a free pan-Balkan state. He was one of the leading figures of the Modern Greek Enlightenment, but met with a horrific death in 1798 at the hands of the Ottomans. Another personal highlight is the

FOCUS ARCHITECTURE

THE REBIRTH OF A GLOBAL CITY Look beyond the ancient temples and the sea of identical white Athenian apartment blocks and you’ll discover mid-century Modernist architectural gems hiding in plain sight. BY F R A N K DE M I TA

ention “architecture” to a visitor to Athens, and the first image to spring to mind will likely be the Parthenon. The marble edifice perched atop the Acropolis dominates the city below, both literally and figuratively. To the frequent visitor or more jaded local, the second association that might occur would be the pervasive polykatoikies – literally “multi-houses” or apartment blocks – that dominate residential neighborhoods radiating from Kolonaki and Pangrati downtown and outward to the distant suburbs. First appearing in the 1930s, these structures exploded in popularity from the 1960s onwards and spread across the city in a sea of white concrete and marble cladding. While important from the sociological perspective of evolving Athenian postwar urban life, few would find much architectural and historical interest in their monotonous proportions and façade, at least

in their iterations over the past three decades. However, those who take the time to look will find, tucked between the ancient sites, the neoclassical consulates and the 1980s apartment buildings, more than a few gems of modernism: buildings brimming with the optimism of the era, ambitious in their embrace of new materials, techniques and design language. Some of these, such as the National Hellenic Research Foundation and the Athens Tower, have been overlooked in part due to the timing of their construction (during the military dictatorship of 1967-1974), dismissed as “junta” projects. But the Greek architects responsible for these and other landmark post-war structures were largely products of, or inspired by, the Bauhaus school and seeking to invest Greek urban life with the international spirit of the times. Athens stood poised to become – for the first time since antiquity – a global cultural capital.

Below: The architectural plans for the Athens Hilton. Right: the late, great artist Yiannis Moralis drew inspiration from ancient Greek themes for the monumental reliefs gracing the hotel’s façade.

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Rooms with a view: the Athens Hilton exudes the optimism of the Space Age while paying homage to the city’s glorious past.

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The Athens Hilton opened its doors to the public on April 20, 1963. The inaugural celebrations were attended by Conrad Hilton himself, who proclaimed the new building “the most beautiful Hilton Hotel in the world.” A bold showcase of contemporary architectural ideas, the Athens Hilton seamlessly blended timeless local materials – such as marble from Mt Penteli – with cutting-edge modernism. The massive reliefs gracing the building’s façade, created by the noted mid-century artist Yiannis Moralis, tie the 130

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modern to the classical, depicting ancient and mythical themes. The quartet of architects responsible for the building’s design were Emmanuel Vourekas, Procopius Vassiliades, Spyros Staikos and Anthony Georgiades. Vourekas was one of the busiest Greek architects of the era, with over 200 buildings to his credit, including many in nearby Kolonaki. A short walk from the Hilton sits one of his last major commissions, the Megaron-Athens Concert Hall, adjacent to the US Embassy. At the time of the Hilton’s construction, the design pitted the left-leaning architectural establishment – who saw the building as a blot on the city’s 19th centu-

ry neoclassicism and the grand classical heritage from which it derived – against the segment of the public that enthusiastically greeted the hotel’s opening as a breath of modernity, signaling Greece’s true emergence after the hardships of the war years. The Galaxy Bar atop the hotel, with its stunning evening views of an illuminated Acropolis, represented the pinnacle of urbane Athenian aspiration, creating a visual dialogue between the greatness of the Athenian past and its aspirations for the future. In 2004, the Hilton received a sympathetic makeover to coincide with the Athens Summer Olympics, overseen by architects Alexandros Tombazis and Charis Bougadelis.

ATHENS TOWER

2-4 MESOGEION

The first glass skyscraper in Athens was designed by Ioannis Vikelas and Ioannis Kymbritis. Constructed between 1968 and 1971, the complex consists of two structures, the taller of 25 stories and the shorter of 12, linked at the first floor,

with shops occupying the ground floor. The structure utilizes glass curtain wall construction – echoing the pioneering international style of New York landmarks such as the UN Headquarters (Oscar Niemeyer and Le Corbusier, 1949) and the Seagram Building (Mies van der Rohe and Philip Johnson, 1958) – with brown anodized aluminum window sashes and white marble vertical cladding. This remains one of the tallest structures in Athens.

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EMBASSY OF THE UNITED STATES 91 VASILISSIS SOFIAS

The US Embassy in Athens, a landmark example of mid-century modernism, was designed by Walter Gropius, one of the most influential architects of the 20th century and founder of the Bauhaus school, together with Greek architect Perikles Sakellarios. Opened to the public on July 4, 1961, the building attempted to capture the spirit of its classical antecedents and the Parthenon without being merely imitative; it features brilliant white Pentelic marble cladding, black marble from the Peloponnese and grey marble from Marathon, and a simple colonnade that wraps around the entire structure, while simultaneously presenting something entirely new with its cantilevered upper two floors. The embassy was intended by Gropius as a metaphor for democracy itself, with its expansive courtyard designed to encourage people to linger, converse and debate ideas openly. Through his design, Gropius sought to create a direct link between democracyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classical roots and the young American nation. Alas, the openness Gropius envisioned has had to defer to contemporary concerns; the novel outdoor landscaping has now given way to security fencing. A major rehabilitation of the building, to be overseen by Ann Beha Architects of Boston, Massachusetts, is scheduled for the near future.

For the embassy of his adopted homeland, Walter Gropius, founder of the Bauhaus movement, created a massive structure that appears to float weightlessly off the ground, epitomising the boundless aspirations of the American Century.

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PHOTOS FROM YIORGIS YEROLYMBOS PROJECT CHANCERY: WALTER GROPIUS US EMBASSY IN ATHENS

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ATHENS CONSERVATOIRE 17-19 RIGILLIS AND VASILEOS GEORGIOU II

Architect Ioannis Despotopoulos was the only Greek to study at the Bauhaus school under Walter Gropius. His liberal political beliefs and his association with the “radical” reputation of the Bauhaus movement resulted in a period of self-imposed exile in Sweden during the 1950s, where he worked under the name Jan Despo. It was from Sweden that, in 1959, he submitted the winning entry for an urban planning competition to design a new cultural center for Athens. His

vision was anything but modest: it was to encompass nearly 150,000 square meters, connecting Vasileos Konstantinou to Vasilissis Sofias all the way to the National Gallery. In addition to the Conservatoire, it was to include a 1,800-seat opera house, an orchestra and ballet hall, a circular theater as well as a playhouse for experimental theater, an extension to the National Gallery, a new Byzantine Museum and a church. His goal was nothing less than to transform Athens into a world capital of culture. After delays and the submission of a revised plan in 1966, construction finally commenced, but further delays and cost overruns brought the project to a halt in 1976, with only the Conservatoire completed. Although

Taking center stage: marrying a purity of line with a stark play of shadows, the Athens Conservatoire embodies the Athenian ambition to claim its place as a global focal point of contemporary culture.

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Despotopoulos was recognized as an architectural and planning visionary across Europe, the Athens Conservatoire is his sole completed project in his native land. The design is deceptively simple, a rectangular two-story box. The long, strikingly simple façade is pierced by openings affording views of Mt Lycabettus. Within, the building is a hive of activity, with music and voices from rehearsal spaces and practice rooms filling the hallways. In 2017, the Greek architectural firm Atelier66 undertook a project to restore, complete and enhance Despotopoulos’ original plan for the Conservatoire, with the financial backing of the Foundation of the Friends of Aliki Vatikioti for Music and the Arts.

The strict geometries of the Conservatoire theater invite comparison with the ancient theater of Epidaurus, but with a lean, modernist twist.

ÂŠ DIMITRIS KALAPODAS ARCHIVE/DOMES INDEX

Shifting political priorities may have reduced the scale and scope of Despotopoulosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision, but what was realised of the original plan still impresses with its austere grandeur.

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The structure rises up like some giant yet-tobe-launched satellite, its three monumental wings outstretched to embrace the sky arching overhead.

OTE HEADQUARTERS 99 LEOFOROS KIFISIAS, MAROUSSI

In 1971, Hellenic Telecommunications (OTE) held a competition to choose a design for its new Athenian headquarters. While no competition winner was chosen as such, the design submitted by a group of three academics was

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of Maroussi. Built at a time of massive expansion and modernization in the telecommunications industry in Greece, the building’s form and scale can be seen as a manifestation of national aspirations for a modern, technological future. Work began on the construction of the new headquarters in 1974 and was completed, after many delays, in the 1980s. The OTE complex remains the eighth-tallest

structure in the country. Recent years have seen the renewal of the original concrete cladding, as well as the renovation of the interior offices and the opening of a new restaurant on the building’s ground floor. Forty-four years after construction on the landmark structure began, it still serves as the Athens administrative hub of OTE, a testament to the scope, scale and vision of its original design.

awarded the commission for the new building. The architects Platon Masselos, Grigoris Mavrommatis (current president of the Hellenic Handcraft Industry Association and Diplareios School) and Dimitris Nakos proposed a three-pointed star-shaped structure, some 21 stories tall and encompassing a colossal 64,785 square meters of floor space, resting on a building plot of some five hectares in the suburb

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This building was designed by Constantinos Doxiadis, the father of ekistics – the science of human settlement – whose work principally focused on large-scale urban design. Doxiadis oversaw projects around the world, from Islamabad, where he was lead architect for the new Pakistani capital, to Detroit. At the time of the NHRF commission in 1962, his firm, Doxiadis Associates, employed some 400 people, half of whom were deployed internationally, while the other half worked from the Doxiadis-designed headquarters in Kolonaki (today the ONE Athens luxury apartment complex). The NHRF project came at the suggestion of Dimitris Pikionis. The structure was the first Greek public building to embody the dictum of American architect Louis Sullivan that “form follows function.” It consists of three principal volumes: the six-story office building, the three-level library, and the entrance foyer and lecture hall. Faced with white and pink marble, the buildings project monumentality, in keeping with the foundation’s mission.

NATIONAL WAR MUSEUM 2 RIZARI

Cairo-born architect Thukydides Valentis showed exceptional promise as a student at the National Technical University of Athens, where he eventually served as chair of the School of Architecture. A partner in Valentis’ first architectural practice, Polyvios Michailidis had worked under none other than Le Corbusier. Valentis was an unabashed admirer of modernism. This is particularly reflected in this commission for the National War Museum. Perhaps the most striking feature of the building is the juxtaposition of the larger first story above the smaller ground story, giving it the appearance of almost hovering above the ground, notwithstanding its bulk. 138

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THE ROUND SCHOOL – AGHIOS DIMITRIOS

23 STRATIGOS PAPAGOU, AGHIOS DIMITRIOS There is no Greek architect of the mid20th century worthier of the epithet “visionary” than Takis Zenetos. He dreamed of cities built in the sky, tethered to pylons on the earth’s surface or suspended above the ground in a great net. His design for the refurbishment of the Fix brewery on Syngrou Avenue in 1957 was groundbreaking, with simple, severe modern lines; the brewing operations were visible to the passing public through a solid wall of glass. In 1994, half of the then-defunct brewery was demolished to permit construction of the Syngrou-Fix metro station, and what remained was converted in 2016 into a home for the National Museum of Contemporary Art,

with Zenetos’ original façade on Syngrou Avenue hinting at the original building’s monolithic grandeur. Zenetos also developed ambitious plans for a theater atop Lycabettus, including a “temporary” 3,000-seat structure that opened to the public in June 1965 with a performance of “Antigone” by Sophocles. What was to have been temporary still remains in place today, but Zenetos’ design for a 5,000-seat theater and cultural complex atop the hill still remains unrealized. His Round School in Aghios Dimitrios is a testament to his extraordinary talent. Designed in 1969, the school opened to students in 1974. The massive concrete louvers located on each of the school’s

three floors were carefully shaped and positioned in order to optimize the amount of light entering the building over the course of the school day. Zenetos chose a circular shape both as a cost-saving measure and to enable future expansion of the school. The classrooms are located on the building’s perimeter, while the core contains media facilities. Deeply functional, yet imaginative and otherworldly, the Round School represents a creative evolution of Bauhaus principles.

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LET’S GET TO WORK

Athens’ thriving co-working spaces are attracting digital nomads from around the world and incubating a new generation of globally connected businesses. BY A L E X K I NG / PHOTOS: T H A L I A GA L A NOP OU L OU

The only thing I need is my laptop,” explains Steffen Geist, a German computer programmer working from the Stone Soup co-working space in central Athens. At his base in Berlin, Steffen noticed it was getting darker and colder as autumn rolled in. “I thought, let’s go where the sun is,” he says. “My customers are all based in Germany but I can communicate with them on Slack. Athens has a growing tech scene, so I decided to work here for a month. I made cool friends and found some great bars, so I’m sure I’ll be back.” Steffen is part of a growing movement of remote workers or ‘digital nomads’ who’ve found a way to work wherever they choose. Freed from desk jobs, all they need is fast internet and they can offer their services as designers, copywriters, marketers, entrepreneurs or, like Steffen, programmers, to international clients online. With the ability to earn an income anywhere in the world, freelancers and digital nomads are flocking to Athens – whether for a few days, weeks or months. They’re drawn by the city’s world-renowned culture, climate and hospitality, as well as by a growing network of co-working spaces that cater to a wide range of professionals and offer so much more than just a desk. For creatives and techies alike, these co-working hubs offer everything from networking opportunities and social activities to link-ups with both local and international business and investment. 140

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ZAFAR IQBAL

SOFTWARE DEVELOPER “When I used to work for companies in office jobs, I always wished I could control my own space and time,” explains Zafar Iqbal, a software developer from the town of Burnley in the UK. “Today, I have the freedom and flexibility to work on my own terms. Having full control over what I do is pretty cool.” Zaf (as he prefers to be known) works freelance for a wide range of clients, developing custom software, web and mobile applications and even custom hardware or electronic devices. He works from The Cube, which he says is a great place to meet people and be encouraged by others, as well as a regular source of new clients. “Most clients don’t come from advertising, they come through people I’ve met, through having a network,” Zaf explains. Owners Maria and Stavros often recommend him to teams using the space, and he’ll pick up three- to sixmonth contracts working on specific projects. “It’s refreshing that The Cube has a makerspace and has an almost hacker atmosphere, rather than a corporate environment,” he says. “It’s a great place for networking. You chat and then go out for dinner with people. But you can’t overdo it, you still have to be disciplined enough to get your work done and find time to create. I always want to be making things.” INFO zaf.io

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STATHIS ATHANASIOU FILM DIRECTOR

IMPACT HUB

Impact Hub is the world’s largest network for socially-conscious entrepreneurship and activism, with over 100 hubs in more than 50 countries. Sophie Lamprou and Dimitris Kokkinakis worked in established Impact Hubs in Madrid and Vienna respectively for nearly three years as they investigated the network’s potential and explored how they could apply the concept successfully in a Greek context. “People are now able to move more freely than ever before,” Sophie says. “But we still seek human interaction, ways to be connected beyond the digital realm and random encounters with new people and ideas.” Impact Hub Athens opened in 2013 in a renovated neoclassical townhouse and has, arguably, the best location in Athens: right in the lively center of Psyrri and just three minutes from the central 142

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metro station at Monastiraki. Home to international journalists, human rights NGOs and ethical businesses, the hub has become a popular event location for the humanitarian and ecological sectors. Alongside the co-working space, they also run a children’s orchestra – the Greek chapter of El Sistema, a worldwide social-inclusion-throughmusic program; Hydrousa, a water preservation and circular economy initiative; and the Municipal Market of Kypseli, the first social economy market in Greece. “The Hub is a place where people blazing a more courageous path can support and inspire each other,” Dimitris says. “We believe a bigger community of sociallyengaged people can achieve more.” INFO Impact Hub, 28 Karaiskaki, Tel. (+30) 210.321.0146, athens.impacthub.net/en

When Stathis began trying to produce his second feature film, all the conventional paths were blocked. It was 2012 and both the traditional distribution model for films and the Greek economy were collapsing. “This set me free, emotionally,” he recalls. “I could do whatever I wanted and still have a better chance of success than following what everyone had done for the last 110 years.” His film, “Alpha,” inspired by Sophocles’ 2,500-year-old story of a young princess named Antigone who confronts state power to bury her dead brother, would become Greece’s first-ever crowdfunded feature film, distributed under Creative Commons licensing, and accompanied by live performances at certain venues. Indiegogo was barely known at this point, so Stathis and his team faced an uphill battle introducing crowdfunding to a Greek audience. During an extensive outreach process, Stathis met Sophie Lamprou and Dimitris Kokkinakis, who were then presenting the idea for Impact Hub Athens at TEDx. Following the release of “Alpha” in 2013, Stathis was searching for a new office, when he remembered Impact Hub. “I saw the space and, in a millisecond, I felt I had to be here,” he explains. “It’s like a big house; it has a strong sense of family for me. There’s constant movement, people always doing stuff, eating and talking. It brings back feelings from my childhood and memories of people mingling in my grandparents’ village.” Stathis appreciates the wide range of people who pass through the Hub, not just for the conversation, but to bounce ideas around with. “I love mingling with people I wouldn’t normally mingle with,” he says. “It’s nice to talk to someone who doesn’t have an idea about your business or your field. You can often give each other useful feedback and it’s an opportunity to get a fresh, un-jaded perspective on what you’re doing.” INFO stathisathanasiou.com

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FOUND.ATION

Found.ation in Petralona is a coworking space, a digital transformation accelerator for corporations and a startup incubator with global ambitions. It was born in 2011 when a team of likeminded people from TEDxAthens decided to create a physical space to foster the city’s most brilliant minds. TEDxAthens was founded in 2009 by Dimitris Kalavros-Gousiou, one of the co-founders of Found.ation, while he was still a student. The platform really took off around 2012, a time when Greeks became increasingly hungry to take part in social dialogue, understand international trends and play a greater role in creating positive change. It was through TEDx that Dimitris met Filippos Zakopoulos, now Found. ation’s managing director, and the pair decided to channel their shared zeal for innovation and renewal into the creation of a business space. “The TEDx Athens platform is a push

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towards establishing the society and values we want; values of openness and change,” Filippos explains. “The Found. ation platform is also looking at how to adapt and evolve in a changing world, through corporations and startups working together. In Greece, as in Europe as a whole, there’s a real need for re-skilling and up-skilling to take advantage of new digital tools.” Found.ation provides advisory services to firms facing the challenges posed by the digital economy as well as a coworking space that’s hosted a variety of SMEs working in tech – from software to artificial intelligence, traveltech and fintech. To increase their impact, Found.ation created an independent venture capital arm; it administers funds from private investors and the European Investment Fund-controlled EquiFund platform. This vehicle, Velocity. Partners, has raised €23.9 million to invest in early-stage ventures in Greece and across the Balkans.

Like many Athens co-working spaces, Found.ation was born from a desire to stem the destruction caused by the economic crisis. But now, rather than fighting brain drain, it’s focusing on brain gain, attracting top talent from Greece and abroad; helping startups scale up; working with Greek companies to help them tackle disruption; and building a thriving ecosystem for development, investment and innovation. “It’s a great time to be in the tech or creative sectors here,” Dimitris says. “The lifestyle is unparalleled: Athens is a very welcoming city, culturally and socially. But now we also have the skills, are attracting the talent and have the capital to back us up. We need to raise our expectations and understand that we have all the ingredients to succeed on an international level.” INFO Found.ation, 2 Evristheos, Tel. (+30) 210.345.0606, thefoundation.gr

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STONE SOUP

“When we opened in 2014, everyone in the space was Greek,” says Olga Paraskevopoulou, co-founder of Stone Soup. “Today, roughly half are from around the world. Athens is a great city to live in. Many things are much cheaper than in northern Europe, the climate and diet is much better, and, most importantly, the human interactions are richer.” Before Stone Soup, Olga was in Amsterdam, working with universities and municipalities to organize events, seminars and training sessions, and collaborating on projects such as Code for Europe. “In the midst of the economic crisis, I felt like the skills I’d acquired in managing projects, encouraging collaboration and acquiring funding would matter more in Greece,” Olga says. “I hoped to create a haven for the talented professionals brave enough to stay in Greece, and to give them worldclass opportunities.” Stone Soup took over an entire floor of a downtown office building and began to attract a wide range of people and businesses. Today, it offers co-working space and IT consultancy, and hosts events that bring people together across disciplines. INFO Stone Soup, 18 Harilaou Trikoupi, Tel. (+30) 210.338.8566, stonesoup.io

THE CUBE

One of the biggest tech successes to emerge from the Athens co-working scene is Beat (formerly known as TaxiBeat), a ride-hailing app created by Nikos Dradakis in 2011 – a year before Uber entered the taxi market in 2012. In February 2017, it was bought by Daimler in Germany for €43 million. Today, 90% of Beat journeys occur outside Greece, in cities across South America. Beat’s own journey began at CoLab, Athens’ first co-working space, which opened in 2009; it was co-founded by Stavros Messinis and his partner Maria Calafatis, who’ve become an Athens techindustry and startup power couple. “Stavros and I are risk-takers,” Maria says. “Crisis brings opportunity. We, too, 146

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were affected by the crisis, but we were bold, crazy and young enough to risk everything.” After helping launch CoLab, they struck out alone, opening The Cube in a much larger space in Exarchia in 2012. This moment catalyzed a wave of new co-working spaces, as people tried to adjust to the new economic realities – but many soon folded. The Cube, on the other hand, has gone from strength to strength, thanks to its founders’ belief in the Greek entrepreneurial spirit and their ability to leverage an extensive network of talent, mentors and funders in support of fledgling projects. Catering primarily to tech startups, entrepreneurs and non-profit organizations,

The Cube’s seven floors comprise offices, meeting and seminar rooms, a makerspace and an events space – with regular events ranging from UX developer meet-ups to sessions on how to train your pet parrot. “Innovation and entrepreneurship can be a lonely and challenging path,” Maria says. “You have to understand the needs, the talent and the pain. Building a strong community is so important. Co-working isn’t a business that will pad your wallet, but you get rich in other ways; through encouraging new collaborations, you’re rewarded by seeing the impact you have and the success you help create.” INFO The Cube, 8 Klisovis, Tel. (+30) 211.408.1253, thecube.gr

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ROMANTSO

LUCY XU

MARKETER, STARTUP ADVISOR “There’s so much opportunity to do things here in Athens, and to be inspired to explore your creativity,” says Lucy, a Chinese-American from New York. “There are new ideas being developed and created across many different areas, especially in the startup world. It’s exciting.” After experiencing Greece on holiday, Lucy decided to move to Athens in 2016 and began working with local startups. While she was inspired by the dynamism of the local scene, she recognized there were skill and resource gaps but was confident that the best practices she’d learned in New York and Silicon Valley could be of great benefit to the burgeoning Greek tech market. Lucy founded The Port, a marketing and business development consultancy for the startup scene, from a base in Stone

ADDITIONAL SPACES

Soup and has worked on building bridges and sharing skills between the American and Greek tech sectors ever since. The Port hosts workshops (such as Marketing for Startups, also held at Stone Soup) and offers services and resources to help startups and other businesses “navigate uncharted waters.” There are many differences between Greek and American business cultures, but Lucy has enjoyed adapting to a different pace of life and a more relationship-based culture in Greece. With no end date to her time in Athens, she’s committed to the long haul. “I want to grow the business and help release the untapped potential here,” Lucy says. “It will be interesting to see what the future holds for Athens and for Greece.” INFO totheport.com

• SPACES ATHENS 56 Ermou, Tel. (+30) 210.727.9000, spacesworks.com • SPACES MAROUSI Green Plaza, 117 Kifissias, Tel. (+30) 210.727.9000, spacesworks.com • FREE PUBLIC STUDY AREA at Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, 364 Andrea Syngrou, Tel. (+30) 216.809.1000, snfcc.org

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Faced with particularly difficult economic circumstances in recent years, professionals from many sectors have weathered the storm by coming together – and Romantso is indisputably the focal point for Athens’ creative industry. “The creative sector has always been precarious, both here and abroad,” says graphic designer and Romantso founder Vassilis Haralambidis. “Romantso was conceived not only as a production house, but also as a social space. Creative people have very different needs. They don’t like models or programs; the process is much more organic, and unpredictable.” After years spent running the BIOS bar and arts venue in Kerameikos, Vassilis wanted to do something more ambitious and give a much-needed boost to the local creative scene. He found the answer in a striking but derelict 1940s office building. Over time, the space was restored to its former glory, and period details such as the marble staircase and the exterior neon signage were rescued. Today, Romantso functions as both cultural center and incubator, with 24 separate offices that range from shared desks to totally private spaces, sandwiched between a bar, a gallery, a downstairs venue and a rooftop party space. There is a diverse and everchanging mix of artists, freelancers and creative businesses. Those selected for the incubator program are chosen on the basis of their portfolio and potential, rather than their business model, and start out using the space for free. In partnership with like-minded projects across the continent, the BIOS Foundation (which comprises BIOS and Romantso) helped launch the European Creative Hubs Network and can take much credit for stimulating the recent artistic renaissance in Athens. The vibrancy of Athens’ arts scene today has transformed the city into an ever-more desirable destination for foreign creatives. “There’s a great deal of dialogue and exchange of ideas with the rest of Europe,” Vassilis says. “I think creatives are attracted by this ‘urban exotica style’ – there’s a chaotic decadence. You have influences from East and West colliding; it’s like a melting pot.” INFO Romantso, 3 Anaxagora, Tel. (+30) 216.700.3325, romantso.gr

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A TECHNICOLOR CANVAS Exploring the deep roots of Athens’ art renaissance – and where it goes from here. BY I N DI A D OY L E

he buzz around Athens’ art scene has never been louder. Over the last decade, the city’s combination of accessible gallery spaces and an abundance of studios has engendered a creative new wave that is garnering international attention. The cultural conversation around Athens is exploding in part thanks to documenta, the prestigious contemporary art exhibition held every five years, which left its home in Kassel, Germany, for the first time for the 2017 edition which was co-hosted by the Greek capital. While grappling with the impacts of austerity, Athens is once again being viewed as a focal point for inspiration and new ideas. This won’t, of course, be

news to the city’s independent galleries, whose founders and directors have, for years, been influential in sparking creative discourse and shaping the cultural scene. These creative individuals share a common history of breaking boundaries and approaching the status quo with a fresh vision. Whether reimagining gallery spaces, rethinking how local artists should be presented to global audiences, or reconsidering what an Athens-based gallery should offer, they have provided a strong foundation from which to welcome international shows and artists, as well as a vibrant ecosystem to support local artists and catalyze future developments.

American painter Leidy Churchman’s “Snowlion” show at Rodeo Gallery in Piraeus, 2018.

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REBECCA CAMHI RECOMMENDS:

“Metaxourgeio is full of culture, but you must visit the Municipal Gallery of Athens (Leonidou and Myllerou), the Attis Theatre (7 Leonidou) and the contemporary art space Atopos CVC (72 Salaminos).” “For food, take a short walk to Seychelles (49 Keramikou), a modern Greek restaurant popular amongst the area’s creatives.”

REBECCA CAMHI CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY At the root of the Rebecca Camhi Contemporary Art Gallery is a truly individual vision. After spending time in London, New York and Paris, Rebecca Camhi returned to Athens and founded her first art space in 1995, bringing the best of the international scene to her hometown. In a 14-room space on Sofokleous, she introduced a new way of enjoying art to Athens, one in which social elements and cultural context permeate the viewing experience. “The gallery, the exhibitions, 152

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it’s a way of life,” Camhi says. “I’m not a typical ‘gallerist.’” In 2008, the gallery relocated to its current Metaxourgeio location, but the original spirit and vision remain the same. The new space has evolved to include an art and ceramics shop downstairs, as well as a garden for artists’ dinners and events. Camhi’s flexible approach has seen her extend the run of a recent exhibition to allow the artist to show more work, a rare act in a world where financial burdens are constant and audiences can be cynical. “It’s hard,” Camhi agrees. “Not that it’s hard to do per se, but it’s hard to stand up for, to commit to and to keep doing. There’s pressure to do things

how they – supposedly – should be done, as opposed to how you’re doing them.” The gallery has a reputation for bringing exciting talents to Athens, including international artists such as Nan Goldin, Julian Opie and Rita Ackermann. It has also exhibited work by renowned Greek artists such as Konstantin Kakanias and Angelo Plessas. Camhi is keen to stress that the art world does not exist in isolation. Making the gallery an important player in a wider cultural context is a key part of her vision. “I can’t exist without the support of the city. So I put these things very closely together; my energy, my time.” In practical terms, this means investing in helping to fix the streets around the gallery and fostering community initiatives. To Camhi, it’s all connected. “Art,” she says, “is linked to life, to history, to politics, to everything.”

INFO

9 Leonidou, Tel. (+30) 210.523.3049 Open: Thu, Fri 12:00-20:00 or by appointment

Work from painter Konstantin Kakanias’ 2018 show “That’s Mine Bitch. Do Not Touch. Back Off.”

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BERNIER/ELIADES GALLERY “Jean [Bernier] and I always believed that Greece is not only a place charged with the past of its culture; it is also a country of great beauty, which artists should discover and experience first-hand,” says Marina Eliades, as she explains the motivations for founding the seminal Bernier/ Eliades gallery space in Kolonaki back in 1977. “We had the conviction that art knows no borders.” Bernier and Eliades’ approach was revolutionary when the gallery opened, bringing a radically new vision to the city’s creative landscape at a time when the Athens art scene was dominated by large institutions. Their vision set a precedent which continues to guide the gallery today. Their diverse curation has encompassed a range of works and media, with some of Eliades’ personal highlights including Richard Serra’s solo show in 1986, Jannis Kounellis’ retrospective aboard the cargo vessel “Ionion” in

Piraeus in 1994, “The Art of Gilbert & George” at the Athens School of Fine Arts in 2001 and Robert Wilson’s “Video Portraits of Lady Gaga” in 2015. As one of the first galleries to bring international artists to Greece, the legacy of their vision has been far-reaching, not only in terms of the artists exhibited at Bernier/Eliades, but also among the international community which the gallery has fostered. “When artists visit Greece, we believe they all gain something special,” Eliades says. “They take that home with them, but they also leave us with the traces of personal relationships and the imprints made by their work.” Now housed in a beautiful neoclassical building in Thiseio, the gallery is optimally placed to welcome the renewed interest in Athens’ art scene. “I think documenta somehow repositioned Athens on the artistic map,” Eliades notes. “But the new generation of artists has the knowledge and power to keep the window on Greek contemporary art open to the rest of the world.”

Clockwise from top left: Artwork by Annette Messager at Bernier/Eliades Gallery in 2013. Photo by Boris Kirpotin; Jean Bernier; Marina Eliades.

INFO

11 Eptahalkou, Tel. (+30) 210.341.3935-7 Open: Tue-Fri 10:30-18:30, Sat 12:00-16:00

MARINA ELIADES RECOMMENDS:

“Our artists love to eat at To Steki Tou Ilia (5 Eptachalkou) in Thiseio and at Taverna tou Oikonomou (41 Troon) in Petralona.” “When they have time, they walk to the Acropolis and visit the Acropolis Museum (15 Dionysiou Areopagitou), then stroll through Plaka and Monastiraki.” 154

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“When You Sing” by Nikos Navridis at Bernier/Eliades Gallery in 2018. Photo by Boris Kirpotin.

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Sylvia Kouvali, founder of Rodeo Gallery, at her workspace in Piraeus.

RODEO GALLERY Rodeo Gallery occupies a spacious former warehouse nestled just a few minutes’ walk from the main port of Piraeus. Wooden rafters and exposed brick walls are a testament to the former function of the building, but the gallery itself is decidedly future-facing. “Everyone’s moving to Hong Kong, or they’re opening spaces in Los Angeles,” explains founder Sylvia Kouvali. “But that’s not what Rodeo is. This isn’t the kind of existence that I want to have.” Kouvali, recently voted one of international art magazine Apollo’s “40 under 40,” founded the gallery in Istanbul in 2007. In 2015, Rodeo opened a space in London and closed in Istanbul – the

pressures of the political landscape rendering gallery life untenable. In 2018, the gallery opened its space in Greece. Operating on the periphery is key to Rodeo’s identity. While considering locations in Athens, Kouvali was conscious of finding a space far from the “Airbnb-ization” of the city center, as she describes it. The space itself is important, too: Kouvali likes to explore how work is received in the different venues of London and Athens. A recent exhibition in Piraeus featured the work of Liliane Lijn, whose use of LED lights and kinetic sculpture - radical when the technology was introduced in the 1980s - remains just as compelling today. “I’m very interested in how a work is seen here [Piraeus], and how a work is seen elsewhere,” she

says. “The framework of the gallery, the location, the city, it all becomes a frame.” For outsiders, documenta may have seemed a high-water mark, but the local scene has, in fact, been growing ever since, and Rodeo’s arrival is one of many signs that Athens continues to attract exciting new voices. Kouvali didn’t want to crash the documenta party, but she appreciates the energy it gave to the local ecosystem, reshaping the narrative around Athens in the eyes of the world. She believes links made and knowledge shared will carry on paying dividends for Athens’ creative scene for years to come: “[It’s about] the micro realities of making things happen. There are relationships that have been created that aren’t visible. This is what forms this community.”

SYLVIA KOUVALI RECOMMENDS:

“The port is a marvelous rediscovery. Anywhere in Piraeus is beautiful. The restaurant next to my gallery, Paleo (39 Polidefkous), is beautiful. They have an amazing selection of wines and you always meet cool people.” 156

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INFO

41 Polidefkous, Piraeus, Tel. (+30) 210.412.3977 Open: Wed-Sat 12:00-19:00 or by appointment

Left: “Spring” (1963) by Yiannis Moralis. Right: Daphne Zoumboulakis at Zoumboulakis Gallery in Kolonaki.

ZOUMBOULAKIS GALLERIES For a contemporary art gallery, Zoumboulakis Galleries is steeped in history. Its seeds were sown at the start of the 20th century by Theodore Zoumboulakis, who opened an antiques shop in the heart of Athens. In the 1960s, Tassos Zoumboulakis and his wife Peggy created an art space in the heart of Kolonaki. Now housed in a larger space in the same area and run by Daphne Zoumboulakis, the gallery exhibits work by celebrated artists of the past and the present. In addition to the gallery, Zoumboulakis runs a multidisciplinary events space in a loft on Pireos Street and deals in antiques. Over the years, the gallery has exhibited works by an impressive range of

renowned international artists, including Magritte, de Chirico, Picasso and Warhol, as well as pieces by influential Greek artists such as Yiannis Moralis, Yannis Tsarouchis and Takis. The variation in styles between these exhibitions speaks to the discerning audience that Zoumboulakis Galleries has cultivated over the years. “From the outset, we’ve respected our public and – despite a number of difficulties – worked to introduce a variety of quality artists and artworks,” Daphne Zoumboulakis says. “Given the city’s current lack of a public contemporary art museum, the few private art galleries [in Athens] have played an important role.” Today, Zoumboulakis is both realistic

and confident about the future of the city’s art scene. Knowing the economic constraints, she hesitates to call the recent upsurge a “great revival,” but she is enthused by the fresh energy of the new wave of creative artists: “Athens has entered the international art scene, but remains ‘small-town’ compared to other European cities. An increasing number of younger foreign artists are finding Athens to be an inspiring place. My positive nature leads me to think that art is always inventive, despite difficult times.” INFO

• CONTEMPORARY ART: 20 Kolonaki Square, Tel. (+30) 210.360.8278 • ART, DESIGN, ANTIQUES: 6 Kriezotou, Tel. (+30) 210.363.4454, (+30) 210.364.0264, Open: Mon & Wed 10:00-15:00, Tue, Thu & Fri 10:0020:00, Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun closed • MULTIPLE EVENT LOFT/PIREOS: 37 Agathodaimonos & 1 Orestiou, Petralona, Tel. (+30) 210.341.4214, Open: Mon-Fri 08:30-16:30, Sat & Sun closed

DAPHNE ZOUMBOULAKIS RECOMMENDS:

“A stroll around the city’s historic center, the treasures of the National Archaeological Museum (44 28is Oktovriou) and the ancient Kerameikos Cemetery (148 Ermou).” AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

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THE BREEDER GALLERY In the heart of Metaxourgeio, behind a dark metal door and a commanding exterior, you’ll find The Breeder Gallery, housed in a sprawling space that was once an icehouse. The gallery opened in 2008, but the main gallery space is just one element in The Breeder’s extensive program, which includes the pop-up Breeder Feeder as well as The Breeder Skin, a project featuring public art installations on the façade of the building. The gallery also collaborates with leading Athenian institutions, such as the Hilton Hotel and the restaurant Vezené. George Vamvakidis and Stathis Panagoulis started The Breeder in 2002; it was an art magazine which evolved into a gallery. They were driven by the desire to represent exciting artists internationally,

while at the same time fostering a creative dialogue within the city.“From the outset, The Breeder didn’t differentiate between local and international artists,” says director Nadia Gerazouni. She points out the range of artists the gallery represents, in which Athens-based British creators such as Navine G. Khan-Dossos and Zoë Paul join Beijing-based Tao Hui and Brooklyn-based Kalup Linzy. “What unites them,” Nadia says, “is that they are all bold in the visual language they use to realize their ideas. This fearlessness is what has come to define the gallery.” Audiences can expect to encounter something completely different upon each visit. This dynamic approach has seen the gallery thrive in challenging times. “The economic crisis in Greece shifted foundations and made room for a lot of changes,” Nadia explains. “At the same time, it undermined the finan-

Left: Installation view of “Si Sedes Non Is” curated by Milovan Farronato at The Breeder, 2017. Above: Nadia Gerazouni at The Breeder in Metaxourgeio.

cial support system that local artists had through private collectors and a market for their work.” Despite ongoing financial challenges, the current outlook is markedly positive. “Many galleries from our generation have closed,” Nadia says. “But a number of energetic new artist-run project spaces are flourishing, which is truly exciting. Being an ‘Athens-based artist’ has never been more relevant than now. Athens is rapidly becoming a hub for artists, curators and creative people from all around the world, resulting in a Greek art scene that is, in fact, undeniably international.”

NADIA GERAZOUNI RECOMMENDS:

“Across from The Breeder is a very charming café called Arta (Iasonos 52). It’s well known for its homemade meatballs and it embodies the essence of Metaxourgeio: a collage of old and new, where artists and art lovers mix with elderly local residents.” “Enjoy the best brunch in Athens while watching skaters try new tricks at Latraac Cafe & Skate Bowl (63-65 Leonidou).” 158

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INFO

45 Iasonos, Tel. (+30) 210.331.7527 Open: Tue-Sat 12:00-18:00

KALFAYAN GALLERIES

ARSEN KALFAYAN RECOMMENDS:

“Da Capo (1 Tsakalof) at the heart of Kolonaki is where you’ll find the Kalfayan team most mornings, taking early meetings over the café’s famous coffee.” “Keep it local with dinner at Papadakis (15 Fokilidou), the classic Greek kitchen run by celebrity chef Argiro Barbarigou, or Abreuvoir (51 Xenokratous), a Kolonaki institution famous for its meat.” INFO

11 Haritos, Tel. (+30) 210.721.7679, Open: Mon 11:00-15:00, Tue-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00

The Athens branch of Kalfayan Galleries opened in 2000 – founders Arsen and Roupen Kalfayan launched their first gallery in Thessaloniki in 1995. The Kalfayan brothers began by representing Greek artists but expanded to feature a more international roster shortly after their arrival in Athens. “There weren’t that many galleries in Europe which were involved in the Middle East,” Arsen Kalfayan says. “There was a gap between the Middle East and what we call the West, and Greece could bridge it.” This positioning has proved incredibly successful, and the gallery enjoys a leading position within the Greek art scene. Previous exhibitions in Athens include works by Panos Tsagaris, Nina Papaconstantinou, the late Nausica Pastra, the Beirut-based artist Vartan Avakian and the art collective Slavs and Tatars. This diverse roster of artists from across a broad region means that stepping into the gallery can take you far from Athens and the gallery works doggedly to build a global audience for their artists. Art fairs have become a key part of the gallery’s cycle and the team exhibits across Europe, America, Asia and the Middle East. “We started taking part in Art Dubai, and from there we moved to Hong Kong,” Arsen says. “We’re promoting Greek art in all these places where it’s not easy to access what’s going on in Greece.” Raising the profile of Greek artists internationally is a sound business strategy; it’s an important reason why Kalfayan Galleries has weathered the economic crisis, while many other local galleries closed. Alongside its contemporary artists, the gallery has used its global platform to promote Greek artists from the 1960s and 1970s, such as Yannis Tsarouchis, whose work the gallery exhibits at fairs such as Art Basel and The Armory Show to extremely positive receptions. “That’s something we appreciate, because we can now see how important it was to work with these artists,” Arsen explains. “It gives us additional energy to continue.” AT H E N S W I N T E R 2 018 - 2 019

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