GREECE IS | DODECANESE | 2018 by GREECE IS

EXPERIENCE CULTURE, GASTRONOMY & MORE

DODECANESE

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ISSN: 2529-041X

ISSUE #31 | 2018 EDITION

38 - 70

WELCOME

Basic orientation, the region’s history in brief and a local author’s account of what it means to grow up and live as a Dodecanesian.

74 - 80

82 - 88

Plenty of islands and countless hidden beaches and coves make this part of the southeastern Aegean ideal for sailing voyages.

An introduction to the rich gamut of local products and traditional dishes you’ll find in the Dodecanese, so you’ll know just what to ask for.

EXPE RIE NC E

TAS T E

89 - 219

T HE GRAND T O UR

Our recommendations for each island, from microscopic Marathonisi to the mega-destinations of Kos and Rhodes.

WELCOME

ISLAND KINGDOM The Dodecanese isn’t one thing; it’s a prism of possibilities. BY GIORG O S T SI RO S - OL GA C H A R A M I / E DI TOR S , GR E E C E I S D ODE C A N E SE

The Dodecanese is the lump in your throat as you lay eyes on the colorful setting of Kastelorizo after a 22-hour ferryboat ride. Or being a 22-year-old backpacker waiting for your charter flight back home, hung over after the last night of what has been the best holiday of your young life. The Dodecanese is swimming on the beach near the early Christian ruins of Aghios Stefanos in Kos or falling asleep under a tree in Marathi with your book still open in your hand. It’s the young woman going to Agathonisi for some peace and quiet and a chance to enjoy a day at the beach topless, ducking out of sight whenever a shepherd passes by. The Dodecanese is the stern look from a monk when you show up at the entrance to the Monastery of St. John on Patmos in your inappropriate summerwear; it’s the lady from Olympos on Karpathos, who takes your hand, sits you down on a stool and wraps a colorful scarf around your head – a scarf you know you’ll inevitably end up buying. The Dodecanese is the goat farmer who won’t ever leave his mountain shed and who spends his time playing the island’s traditional lyra or pinavli (a flute), to an audience made up of

nothing more than his animals. It’s a group of artists who’ve laid bedsheets down on the ground in Stefanos, Nisyros’ incredible crater, to paint on them. It’s Pantelis Georgantis, the head of the Kalymnos sponge divers’ association, who walks with a limp because, like so many of his colleagues, he was struck with the bends, and it’s the amazing stories he tells about divers who never made it back from distant seas. The Dodecanese is the white-aproned men at church festivals on Kasos, handing out traditional glass plates piled high with the food they cooked, and it’s Barba-Lios, the island’s legendary lyra player, who passed away recently at the age of 94. Anyone lucky enough to hear him play the “alenti,” a sacred local melody, knows what it sound like when someone truly plays from the heart. The Dodecanese is all that and so much more: places, people, stories and experiences. It’s everything in the pages of this magazine and much more. It’s our kingdom of islands, a part of Greece so amply endowed that it’s able to enrich millions of visitors arriving every year without becoming any poorer itself.

Hailing the sunset on Karpathos. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

RODOS PALACE, QUITE SIMPLY, CONSTITUTES THE FINEST DELUXE RESORT ON THE ISLAND OF RHODES. ON A SUPERB LOCATION 3 KM FROM RHODES TOWN AND THE MEDIEVAL CITY, JUST 50 METRES FROM THE BEACH, RODOS PALACE INVITES YOU TO EXPERIENCE THE TRUE ESSENCE OF RESORT LIFE.

Iraklidon Avenue (Trianton) Ixia 85100 Rhodes, Greece T: (+30) 2241.097.222, F: (+30) 2241.025.350 info@rodos-palace.gr | www.rodos-palace.gr

KALLITHEA SPRINGS

A restored monument of exceptional architectural value, these spa facilities, built 90 years ago by the Italians, are not to be missed. Marble and pebble floors, rotundas, a seaside garden and impressive open-air spaces create a unique setting reminiscent of old Hollywood. Kallithea Beach boasts crystal-clear waters and the seabed, famed for its biodiversity, attracts groups of scuba divers.

LINDOS

Below the imposing rock of the acropolis stands the picturesque town of Lindos, built on the ruins of an ancient city. One of Rhodes’ top attractions, its traditional character is protected by conservation laws. The whitewashed houses, rocky terrain and blue waters of the Aegean combine to create a setting of unparalleled charm. The crystalline sea – perfect for swimming and scuba diving – the village’s cosmopolitan summer atmosphere, wide variety of entertainment options, traditional cuisine and modern culinary creativity all come together to offer incredible moments of carefree relaxation. 20

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“Rhodes, an island with a history spanning three millennia, has always been at the crossroads of the East, West, North and South. A place where civilizations collided, each leaving a prominent mark, bequeathing us a rich and complex cultural background. We are the island of natural beauty and the bright sun; the island of the sun god Apollo. The island of crystal-blue waters, magnificent beaches and luxurious resorts. The island of intense contrasts, green valleys and wild mountainous landscapes. Join us on a journey to the light of Rhodes and discover every hidden treasure of this blessed island.” - FOTIS HATZIDIAKOS THE MAYOR OF RHODES

BUTTERFLY VALLEY

One of Rhodes’ major attractions, this rare ecosystem hosts thousands of Panaxia quadripunctaria moths every summer. Park visitors can walk along the small Pelekanos River, cross wooden bridges and get lost in a fairy-tale setting of lush greenery, small rapids and stream pools, before heading to the valley’s renowned restaurant, which overlooks a waterfall.

THE OLD TOWN

Europe’s largest inhabited Medieval Town, a UNESCO World Heritage City, offers visitors the one-ofa-kind experience of retracing 2,400 years of history in a single stroll. Medieval buildings and Ottoman mosques, narrow alleys and charming squares all create a unique sense of times gone by. There are also restaurants, bars and shops with something for everyone. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

“The facilities of the Kallithea Springs are a fantastic tourist attraction, as well as an ideal space to host high-quality events of all kinds. We at DERMAE are open to every sort of collaboration, because we’re committed to making every effort to utilize this unique monument in the best way possible. It’s a unique space of enormous potential; it impresses all its visitors and is ideal for hosting important events that will bolster tourism on the island. To the citizens of Rhodes and all those who visit and support the monument, we thank you for appreciating our efforts.” - GIORGOS KAKOULIS PRESIDENT OF DERMAE

KALLITHEA SPRINGS/ ΔΕΡΜΑΕ Α.Ε. · Tel. (+30) 2241.037.090 · Fax: (+30) 2241.073.073 · E-mail: info@kallitheasprings.gr · www.kallitheasprings.gr

KALLITHEA

Located on the eastern side of the island, 9 km from Rhodes Town, the Kallithea Springs have long been a magnet for visitors from all over the world, particularly since a facility was created here by the island’s Italian rulers in the early 20th century. Today, the restored complex is one of the island’s most popular attractions. In the imposing Great Rotunda, cultural and artistic events such as festivals, concerts and exhibitions are frequently held. The enchanting setting is also ideal for unforgettable events; highly experienced professionals are on hand to succesfully take on wedding receptions, formal dinners, corporate meetings and conferences. Next to the spa complex is a popular beach with crystal waters and beautiful palm trees; its historic café, also elegantly renovated, is open throughout the day, serving refreshments right on the beach. 22

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A RARE VALLEY

Just 10 km west of Rhodes Airport, near the village of Theologos, the stunning Valley of the Butterflies is one of Rhodes’ most famous attractions. This unique ecosystem hosts the rare Panaxia quadripunctaria (actually a brightly-colored species of moth) from mid-June until late September. The moths spend most of their time resting on the shady sides of the trunks of trees or around their roots but when they take flight the orange-red of their wings becomes visible. The sight of this large colony of winged creatures is truly magical.

DO NOT DISTURB

Unfortunately, the butterfly population has been declining due to the impact of tourism on the valley. Some visitors whistle or clap to make the insects take flight, without realizing that the noise they’re making resembles that made by bats. The panicked insects take flight, attempting to escape. Many die from shock, exhaustion or injury after collisions with rocks and trees. For the moths to survive, it’s crucial that they be allowed to rest during the day so they can conserve energy for their migration in September.

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MUNICIPALITY OF

arpathos, an island rich in culture and traditions, is part of the Dodecanese in the southeastern Aegean Sea, located halfway between its neighbours, Rhodes and Crete. The beauty and hospitality of Karpathos is unmatched anywhere else in Greece. Despite its exotic charm, secluded beaches and unspoiled character, Karpathos remains untouched by mass tourism. Given its generous size and low-density population, as you wander its beaches and explore its mountain villages, it’s easy to feel a strong connection with the place. The south of the island is popular with those seeking an adrenaline kick, and is in the spotlight every summer for the international sporting competitions and other events it hosts. Meanwhile, the fierce wind that lifts the spray from the turquoise waves, blows its way to the mountainous north, battering pine trees and howling past sugarcube houses. Fiercely traditional, Karpathian women at this end of the island still wear beautiful colourful traditional garb and bake bread in outdoor ovens, especially in the inimitable village of Olympos (600m elevation), perched on the ridge of a mountain. Very much an off-the-beaten-track destination, it’s only just beginning to draw tourists in search of

the real Greece.

A WONDERFUL ORIGINAL WORLD

With its slow, relaxed way of life, Karpathos is an unrivalled destination for sun worshipers, nature lovers and adventure sports enthusiasts. For those seeking to explore this tranquil island, there is much to find in the way of hidden delights. The old island capital of Pigadia, the 12 picturesque whitewashed villages, the inspiring landscape and the uninhabited islet of Saria are but a few of the delights which will make any vacation a truly unique experience to be remembered. Old customs and traditions are very much alive on Karpathos and in several villages they are incorporated into the daily routine. In the north, the old village of Olympos in particular is a living museum of architecture, ethnology, linguistics and musicology, where time seems to have stood still to a large extent. The wedding ritual here is very significant and celebrations last for 15 days after the actual ceremony. The villages’ authenticity, the warm hospitality, the respect for the traditions and customs, the traditional architecture and decoration of the homes, all maintain the character of this island, where the past is honored on every occasion and at every event. Centuries-old traditions are preserved, from dress to musical instruments to festivals, while several of

A WONDERFUL BALANCE BETWEEN TOURISM AND TRADITION

the island’s many windmills are still functional. Of the 75 windmills or so presently in Olympos, which was once a major flour production center, four are still operational.

Karpathos, with boats leaving frequently from both Diafani and Pigadia. Award-winning Apella Beach is undoubtedly one of the most famous beaches of Greece.

AN ISLAND PARADISE

ACTIVE KARPATHOS

This little paradise has the most beautiful beaches you can imagine. Hidden everywhere, even in high season, are beaches where you will feel like nobody ever has set foot before. The beautiful blue waters combine with the green and lush vegetation to create the perfect destination for the visitor who wishes to explore an unspoiled place. Karpathos has many beautiful beaches and lovely seas to suit every taste. Most beaches on the eastern coast of the island have pebbles and views of the pine-filled mountains, while the western beaches are mostly sandy. There are some small but wonderful beaches on Saria, just north of

Karpathos offers a variety of choices to rejunevate your spirit and body. Walkers are particularly enchanted with Karpathos, eager to explore the trails that seem to unravel across the island like unruly yarn. The maps show hundreds of miles of hiking paths, while the new app “Karpathian Paths,” developed by the island’s tourism committee, encourages hikers to find their own favorite path of experiences. Roads with soft hills ideal for cycling, world-class surfing beaches and crystal-clear waters for swimming, along with the incomparable natural wealth in the depths of the sea for snorkelers and divers, promise plenty of unique summer momments.

UNTOUCHED KARPATHOS

Carved by the sea, wind and waves, Karpathos maintains a dynamic natural environment, inhabited by a diversity of

plants and animals. It constitutes a center for migratory birds, while Mediterranean monk seals live in the caves, attracted by the clean seas around the island. Karpathos is proud of its wild nature, preserved pine forests, precipitous mountains, remote settlements and winding old paths. Last but not least, the Karpathos tourism committee has gone one step further, by creating a special, detailed bird-watching guide.

TASTE OF KARPATHOS

To become truly familiar with a culture, one must live with the locals, breathe the same air and, of course, sample their cuisine. The gastronomy of an island reveals the story of the people who created it. The local cuisine is based on foods such as the renowned makarounes pasta, pies, dairy products, fresh fish and local sweets, while raki and wine have a special place on the traditional table.

TO SUM UP…

Not only can Karpathos meet every need, it can offer unexpected, magical moments of relaxation and revitalization. No wonder it is often called a “surprise paradise.”

ADVERTORIAL

A WHOLE WORLD ON A SINGLE ISLAND KALYMNOS HOTELIERS ASSOCIATION Tel.: (+30) 22430.288.57, Mob. (+30) 6944.244.915 e-mail: sponga@klm.forthnet.gr KALYMNOS ASSOCIATION OF TOURIST ACCOMMODATION “XENIAS” Tel.: (+30) 22430.470.80, Mob. (+30) 6973.003.421

WELCOME

AEGEAN ISLANDS: LIKE NO OTHER The South Aegean is the perfect vacation destination. BY GE ORGE H AT Z I M A R KO S / R E GIONA L G OV E R NOR OF T H E SOU T H A E GE A N

With millions of visitors every year and with destinations that are among the most famous and beloved worldwide, the South Aegean is the dominant force in Greek tourism and a powerful presence in the global tourism market.

visitors the possibility of living authentic experiences in 50 different destinations, each one with its own unique identity. While these may belong to the same geographic area, in reality they constitute 50 different options.

Every year, the South Aegean receives the lion’s share of tourist traffic in Greece; it’s responsible for approximately 30% of the country’s tourism revenue. And in this period of major changes and upheaval to the status quo across the globe, it remains a nexus of challenges and opportunities. It’s the region that will take the lead in the coming years on the road towards growth and development.

That’s not all. We’re continually enriching our brand with all of those elements that precisely reflect our true identity, highlighting as many aspects of our multifaceted touristic product as possible. Our selection as the European Region of Gastronomy for 2019 helps us promote the exceptional gastronomy of the islands, as well as our rich cultural heritage and the destinations that offer authentic travel experiences.

The uniqueness of our islands constitutes the core of the competitive differentiation of our touristic product, and this forms the basis for our strategy. In the Region of the South Aegean, we approach tourism with the seriousness that is demanded by the lifeblood of the Greek economy; we’re planning for tomorrow and seeking to claim it on terms that befit a leader. Our goal is to demonstrate what the South Aegean truly is: unique, multifaceted, and unsurpassable. Everything one could want from their vacation is offered here in abundance. Dozens of gorgeous islands, each with its own particular set of characteristics, can satisfy every possible demand and transform one’s vacation into a special and personally satisfying experience. The South Aegean offers

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Our philosophy as a regional administration is to make use of every opportunity that can lead to the further strengthening of the tourism sector on our islands, which will contribute to the recovery of the Greek economy. We’re taking the lead in charting a local tourism strategy which, by extension, is part of the national tourism strategy. We are aiming for the top and we are succeeding. We’ll accept nothing less for the region with the some of the strongest tourism brands worldwide, and with dozens of islands that add substance to the concept of “uniqueness.” “Aegean Islands: Like No Other” is the identity of the South Aegean; it is the identity of Greece!

WELCOME

TO NISYROS!

Â© GIANNIS PSATHAS

WWW.NISYROS.GR

A M AG I C A L D E S T I N A T I O N

AUTHENTICITY

A MAGICAL DESTINATION

WELCOME TO NISYROS!

ENCHANTING VOLCANIC BEACHES

CHARMING NISYRIAN HOUSES

OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES

CONTENTS G R E E C E I S - I S S U E# 31 D O D E C A N E S E 2 018 E D I T I O N

118 156

186 38. MAP How to get there. 40. IN PICTURES Beauty in the details. 46. AGENDA The islands are alive this summer with major musical events and art exhibitions. 52. HISTORY From ancient settlements and temples to medieval castles, mosques, stylish Italian architecture and submerged wartime wrecks, the past comes alive for visitors in the Dodecanese. 64. PRIDE OF PLACE Like a small fleet on the southeast fringes of the

Aegean, the Dodecanese islands remain on a course that has always been Greek, yet also eminently cosmopolitan. 74. SAILING EXPERIENCE Cruising around the Dodecanese on a sailboat brings about a shift in perspective, revealing – both literally and figuratively – new viewpoints. 82. GASTRONOMY Although each island of the Dodecanese has its own food traditions, together the area presents a fascinating regional cuisine formed by a unique combination of common factors.

Grand Tour

186. KALYMNOS

90. KASTELORIZO

194. TELENDOS

98. KASOS

196. LEROS

106. KARPATHOS 118. RHODES

204. LIPSI 206. PATMOS

138. HALKI

214. ARKI

142. SYMI

216. MARATHI

150. TILOS 156. ASTYPALEA

218. AGATHONISI

166. NISYROS 174. KOS 184. PSERIMOS

ON THE COVER: ILLUSTRATION BY MIKE KAROLOS

ISSN: 2529-041X PUBLISHED BY:

Exerevnitis-Explorer S.A. Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos, Athens, 18547, Greece Tel. (+30) 210.480.8000 Fax (+30) 210.480.8202

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GREECE IS - DODECANESE

is a yearly publication, distributed free of charge. It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.

MORE THAN 5,000 YEARS OF HISTORY

POLYVOTIS IS YOUR GRACIOUS HOST The municipal Guest House Polyvotis offers 20 rooms with en-suite bathrooms with showers and with basic amenities, including a ceiling fan, TV and a mini fridge, and veranda views of the Aegean Sea. Facilities include a bar, a dining area where breakfast is served daily, a sun terrace, a garden and a fitness center. Free Wi-Fi is available in all common rooms.

• Mandraki Village (50m from Nisyros Port) • Tel. (+30) 22420.310.11, (+30) 22420.310.12

AN ABUNDANCE OF HOT SPRINGS

Direct flights from Athens All airports handle local flights as well. Rhodes & Kos handle international flights.

Connected by local flights from Rhodes and Kos

Serviced by ferries from Piraeus and local lines

Only serviced by local ferry lines

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All of The Ferry Routes and Domestic Flights of the Dodecanese.

Arki

Patmos

Marathi

Agathonisi

Lipsi

Leros Kalymnos Telendos Pserimos

Kos

Nisyros

Symi

Astypalea

Tilos

Chalki

Rhodes

Kastelorizo

Karpathos

Kasos

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ELEMENTS

FAÇADE No era of foreign occupation is without its darker chapters, and the period of Italian rule in the Dodecanese is no exception. But the fact is that the grandiose vision of Mussolini’s fascist regime brought a new approach to urban planning, as well as edifices, restorations and archaeological excavations that surprise and impress to this day. A prime example is that of the Governor’s Palace on Rhodes, completed around 1927 by the architect Florestano Di Fausto. 40

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WELCOME IN PIC TURES

ÂŠ PERIKLES MERAKOS

MID-AIR MOMENT When writing about vacation destinations, the hardest part is conveying the sheer exhilaration of being there. Sometimes, however, you get lucky. Our photographer found himself in the fishing village of Panteli on Leros at just the right moment. The kids were in a playful mood. One shutter click and the impromptu composition, a tangle of arms and legs in the air, was caught forever. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

ÂŠ JULIA KLIMI

ON THE BEACH A diverse, multifaceted and geographically expansive archipelago of islands and islets: that is the Dodecanese. And every visitor arrives in the hope that they will find their own slice of heaven, as it seems that this bather has on Armathia, off Kasos. Is this the ultimate luxury in the modern world? The chance to be alone, to connect with nature, to stop time and to disconnect from your cellphone. 42

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BUILT TO LAST The Hora and Monastery of Patmos are inscribed in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites as a rare example of a religious site and a living community that have survived and developed together in harmony for nine centuries. Here, every wall is part of the story of man’s efforts to adapt to his natural environment, to protect himself from enemies, to build his home and to live in peace and safety. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

SET IN STONE In the Dodecanese, “hohlakia” are mosaic pebble floors laid by hand. If you find the word difficult to pronounce, just imagine how difficult it was for the ancients to create, stone by stone, and meter by meter, elaborate depictions of heroes and gods before the mud dried. In the age of cement the art remains very much alive, and creating mosaic floors, even with only simple motifs, is a testament to attention to detail and respect to tradition. 44

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ÂŠ PERIKLES MERAKOS

PURE MAGIC The natural treasures of the Dodecanese are nearly limitless. On Kastelorizo, the southeastern-most island of the archipelago, where Europe meets Asia Minor, the renowned Blue Cave is a miracle of nature. It owes its white stalactites to calcite deposits built up over millions of years, and its incomparable blue color to the light that penetrates the narrow opening and diffuses through its interior. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

WELCOME AGENDA

IN THE ART STREAM

The islands are alive this summer with major musical events and art exhibitions.

31122018 ART DE LA TABLE

Decorative plates, dinner sets and bright-colored tiles with intricate designs illustrate the journey of a historic Dodecanese factory: the ICARO company was founded in Rhodes in 1928 to produce ceramic copies of the coveted Lindian Iznik ware, whose fame rested in part on its ubiquitous presence in the grand mansions of Lindos. The exhibition, organized by the Benaki Museum and based on the research and collection of Yiannos Ioannidis, has been further enriched by exhibit items from the Benaki Museum, the Municipal Museum of Modern Greek Art of Rhodes and the Ephorate of Antiquities of the the Dodecanese. • “ICARO - IKAROS: The Pottery Factory of Rhodes, 1928-1988.” Palace of the Grand Master: Old City, www.benaki.gr

03 12082018 MEMORIES OF THE JOURNEY

French artist Cédric Bouteiller uses elements from photographs taken during his peregrinations in great cities across the world – New York, Shanghai and Marseille – to creates new images. He embellishes his photographic compositions by using collage techniques, adding signs, phrases and human forms, or by creating drawings on the prints. The internationally renowned photographer, graphic artist and painter finds inspiration in many different aspects of contemporary social reality and uses his work to interject his own commentary. • Kapopoulos Fine Arts: Main Square, Hora, Patmos, Tel. (+30) 22470.312.22

10 25082018 POWERFUL IMAGES

Portraits, seascapes, images of monasteries, industrial landscapes and snapshots of everyday urban life: the 2nd Photosphere, the international open air photography festival, presents 101 photographs by professionals and amateurs from Greece and abroad. The exhibition is at the center of a program of talks, dark room workshops and seminars on portraiture. • “Photosphere Festival.” Patmion Cultural Centre: Skala, www.photosphere.gr

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YIANNOS TH. IOANNIDIS COLLECTION

BY X E N I A GEORGI A DOU

©STERNA ART PROJECT

WELCOME AGENDA

10092018 STERNA ART PROJECT

In the derelict late 19th-century building complex that once housed Nisyros’ first public baths, the Sterna Art Club presents a project titled “Exhibition of Rescued Pieces,” which consists of works by the students of Mandraki Primary School (until 26/08). At the same time they are hosting the solo exhibition “Fantasias,” featuring collages by seminal Austrian artist Elisabeth Wild, whose works were also exhibited in Athens last year as part of Documenta 14 (until 26/08). In various locations, both on the island and on Gyali, Sterna will present the multifaceted, four-day project “Making Oddkin: For Joy, Trouble and Volcano Love,” curated by internationally renowned art historian and theorist Nadja Argyropoulou (0710/09). • www.sterna.com.gr

01092018 ATMOSPHERIC LANDSCAPES

21102018 CITY SCENE

Paintings and photographs, children’s theater events, book launches, food festivals, classical music from the Athens State Orchestra, a performance by the folk music group Takim, a jazz festival, concerts by popular Greek artists (including Thanasis Papakonstantinou and Sokratis Malamas), screenings of recent Greek National Opera productions: the summer cultural calendar of the Municipality of Kos has something for everyone. • “Ippokrateia.” Municipality of Kos (Tel +30) 22420.253.16 48

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The works of the painter Rena Avayianou, a graduate of the Athens School of Fine Arts, teeter between dreams and reality. In her new solo exhibition, curated by Anna Schina, critic, art historian and President of the Art Commission of the Municipal Museum of Modern Greek Art of Rhodes, Avayianou presents a series of atmospheric landscapes using mixed techniques. • “Places of Evasion.” Gallery of Contemporary Art: 179 Sokratous, Old Town.

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WELCOME HISTORY

STEPPING STONES OF THE AEGEAN From ancient settlements and temples to medieval castles, mosques, stylish Italian architecture and submerged wartime wrecks, the past comes alive for visitors in the Dodecanese. BY JOHN LEONA R D

lthough their name implies there are only a dozen of them (“Dodeka” is the Greek word for “twelve”), the Dodecanese Islands, a distinct archipelago in the southeastern Aegean, consist of fourteen main islands and numerous other isles, islets and prominent rock formations long familiar to Mediterranean seafarers. Located in the midst of the most important East-West sea lane in antiquity, the Dodecanese mark the crucial “corner” where, as the protective southern Anatolian coastline falls away on the starboard side, westbound sailing ships entering the Aegean had to turn and face (during optimal May-to-September sailing conditions) the full brunt of northern/northwestern winds, known as the Etesians or Meltemia. Time and again, these islands Dodecanese have played an important role in the history of the wider region.

La Grecia Universale Antica (detail); a map of ancient Greece, by Giacomo Cantelli da Vignola (Rome, 1863); black and white copper engraving with color overlay. National Historical Museum, Athens. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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Â© VISUALHELLAS.GR, MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/EPHORATE OF DODECANESE

WELCOME HISTORY

STRATEGIC OR REMOTE? Rhodes, Karpathos and Kasos lie at the southeastern-most edge of the island group, with lonely Kastelorizo situated far away (127 km) to the east, just opposite the modern mainland Turkish port of Kas (ancient Antiphellus). Moving northwest from Rhodes, in consecutive geographical tiers, are Symi and Tilos; Nisyros and Astypalea; Kos; Kalymnos; Leros; the Lipsi (a sub-group of 27+ islets) and Patmos; and finally Agathonisi. Smaller islands and rocks to be found around these primary places include, respectively: Alimia/Alimnia, Chalki, Saria; Strongyli, Ro; Nimos; Syrna; Gyali, Pserimos, Telendos, Levitha, Mavros, Kinaros; Farmakonisi; the Arki (13 islets, including Marathi); and many more. The sheer number of islands constituting the Dodecanese is almost inconceivable, but important to come to grips with, as both their profusion and location (the latter sometimes considered strategic, at other times remote) have greatly contributed to their frequent exploitation and occasional neglect through the eons, since Neolithic humans first disembarked on their shores. SWIMMING ELEPHANTS The earliest inhabitants of the Dodecanese were not people, but fauna – the birds, deer and other animals of mainland Asia Minor that flew, swam, crossed then-existing land bridges, or floated on fortuitous “rafts” of driftwood to reach the near-shore islands. Among them, beginning some 45,000 years ago, were Middle/Late Pleistocene dwarf elephants – essentially small-to-medium-sized versions of the animals we know today, which, surprisingly, were very good swimmers (naturally equipped with their own proto-snorkels!). Their fossilized teeth and bones (dating before ca. 4000 BC) were first found in Harkadio Cave on Tilos in the early 1970s, but since then also in Rhodes, Kasos, Kalymnos and beyond, in Crete, Naxos and Delos. This Pleistocene faunal migration set a pattern that Neolithic humans, and later sea travelers, would subsequently also follow, using the Dodecanese islands as stepping-stones to increasingly explore and inhabit the Aegean.

Sanctuary of All Gods (3rd c. BC), in the Agora (central square) of ancient Kamiros, Rhodes. Identified by inscriptions, the sanctuary included an altar (low base visible between columns) and a fountain (foreground). D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

WELCOME HISTORY

ARCHAEOLOGICAL FRONTIER sians, Athenians and Alexander the Great or his succesMany archaeological excavations and surveys have sors, to the Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Venetians, been carried out in recent decades, by Greece’s Ephorate Turks and ultimately Germans, Italians, British and Greeks of Antiquities of the Dodecanese as well as non-gov– all marching over them and leaving their respective ernmental Greek and foreign missions. Nevertheless, traces. It is this diverse yet familiar blend of nature, archaeology in the Dodecanese Islands is still a history and hardy, charming subsistence that makes work in progress. Rhodes and Kos have received these islands worth exploring. the greatest attention; but the “future of the ON EVERY HILL… past” is bright, as more and more work is also By ca. 7000 BC, Neolithic settlers from being done in smaller places such as Kalymnos, Anatolia, already competent in sea travel, had Astypalea and Gyali. Informative local museums crossed the Aegean to reach Crete. In Rhodes, now exist in many places – including Astypalea, the Erimokastro and Kalythies caves were inKalymnos, Karpathos, Leros, Nisyros and Symi. habited in the late 6th and 5th millennia BC A number of them are recent constructions, (5300-4000/3700 BC). Overall, however, the while others have been freshly renewed with Dodecanese – endowed with fewer natural striking exhibits – for instance, the Kalymnos advantages than Crete – remained only sparsely museum, with its impressive, over-life-size Hellenistic bronze statue, the “Lady of Kalymnos,” recovered populated until the 4th millennium BC, when new settlers (again probably Anatolians) began flooding from the sea in 1994. in. All the major islands and some of the smaller Each Dodecanese island, large and small, Votive offering in the has its own individual character and story. ones (e.g. Halki, Alimia, Gyali) became increasingshape of a warrior’s Generally, however, the archipelago’s members ly inhabited. Nearly every ridge overlooking the head, 7th c. BC have experienced similar historical rhythms; with islands’ natural ports, according to archaeologist (Kos Archaeological Museum). waves of powerful outsiders – from Minoans, PerAndreas Vlachopoulos, and every defensible hill 56

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Fossilized dwarf elephant bones, Harkadio Cave (Tilos Paleontological Museum). In 1914, Austrian paleontologist Othenio Abel suggested such fossils inspired the myth of giant cyclopses, due to the skull’s central nasal opening resembling an eye socket.

ÂŠ VISUALHELLAS.GR

S E C5th TIO I N I Estele TA Late c. N BC V grave from the necropolis of Ancient Kameiros, depicting the deceased mother Timarista saying farewell to her daughter Krito, whose short hair signifies mourning (Archaeological Museum of Rhodes).

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Ottoman-era photo of the Marine Gate (1478), the main entrance to Rhodes Town from the port, prior to its restoration in 1951. Above the gate are carved effigies of the Virgin and Child, St. John the Baptist and St. Peter.

rising above arable countryside was occupied by Late Neolithic/ Early Bronze Age fishermen, farmers and herdsmen. On many sites, obsidian for chipped-stone tools, originating from either Milos or Gyali, points to the importance of seaborne trade. On Gyali itself, archaeologists have discovered Neolithic crucibles for smelting copper, an imported material for which the island’s residents likely exchanged their obsidian.

in the Middle and Late Bronze Ages (ending ca. 1100 BC), evidence for these western traders shows up in numerous Dodecanese islands, including Karpathos, Kasos and Symi. Just as the archipelago’s earliest, Eastern settlers had used the Dodecanese to move westward, so the Cretans and mainland Greeks now island-hopped eastward as they sought to open up new commercial contacts with southwestern Anatolia and beyond. Marketou and others have pointed to the striking similarity between the natural and manmade features of the “Departure Town” in the Fleet Fresco at Akrotiri (Santorini) and the real-life landscape, wild fauna and architectural remains of Ialysos in Rhodes. Behind Ialysos, a Mycenaean citadel has been detected on Mt Filerimos, as well as at Pigadia/ancient Potidaion (Karpathos) and Poli (Kasos).

TOWNS AND TRADE Proto-urban settlements first appeared in the Dodecanese in the Early Bronze Age (EBA), such as Asomatos (2500 BC2050/1900 BC) in northwestern Rhodes. Neighboring EBA Cycladic culture extended southward at least as far as Astypalea, where finds include a typical white-marble, violin-shaped figurine and spiral rock-art representations. With their high level of shipbuilding technology, the island people of the East Aegean, observes archaeologist Aleydis Van de Moortel, were innovative, accomplished sea travelers – the first in the Aegean to use the sail. Through subsequent Middle Bronze years (2000-1600 BC), although Minoan Crete exerted an expanding influence in the Aegean, the robust native culture of the Dodecanese remained predominant, archaeologist Toula Marketou notes, as seen at Trianda/Ialysos, in Rhodes, and Serayia (or “Serraglio”) beneath present-day Kos Town. As Minoan and eventually Mycenaean exchange increased 58

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MARITIME POWERS IN PEACE AND WAR The years surrounding Santorini’s catastrophic eruption (ca. 1625 BC) mark a transitional era, when Dodecanese ways finally “hybridized” with those of outsiders. Mycenaean imports increased, settlements were established (or revitalized), local workshops producing Mycenaean pottery appeared and chamber tombs were introduced. Rhodes’ leading towns, Ialysos, Kameiros and Lindos, later became the settings for the great Dorian-founded cities of the Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic eras. Homer’s retrospective verses (Iliad 2.653, 2.676) refer to

MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/EPHORATE OF DODECANESE

FROM THE BOOK “RHODES-ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF PHOTOGRAPHY 1850-1950”, SIMEON DONTAS

Defterdar (“Treasurer”) mosque (1780) on Eleftherias Square in Kos Town was named after the Ottoman Sultan’s finance minister, Ibrahim Efendi, who was responsible for provincial treasuries and finances.

the southern Dodecanese as the Calydnian islands and record that Rhodes had sent nine ships to the Trojan War (1218 BC); Symi three ships; and Nisyros, Karpathos, Kasos, Kos and others collectively thirty ships.

FRIENDS, FOES AND FICKLE FORTUNE Through their history, the Dodecanese people on their scattered, vulnerable islands often had to choose sides, form alliances and suffer lengthy servitude under foreign masters, while on a path to eventual freedom. Kos and Rhodes joined forces in the Archaic period, but were subjugated by the Persians in the early 5th c. BC. Nisyros and Symi, too, were pressed into Persia’s ranks, compelled, like their neighbors, to supply Xerxes with ships. Following the encroaching Easterners’ final defeat at Salamis and Plataiai (480/479 BC), Rhodes’ major cities, Kos and all other Dodecanese centers became tributary Athenian allies within the Delian League. In Classical times, during the Peloponnesian War (431- 404 BC), and in the contentious early years of the Hellenistic era (late 4th-2nd c. BC), many of the islands found themselves equipped with signal 60

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towers, garrison outposts and fortresses, while outlying residents occasionally fortified their farmsteads. Today, the ruins of these installations can be viewed almost anywhere one looks, on Agathonisi (Kastraki), Arki, Patmos (acropolis), Lipsi (acropolis), Leros (Partheni Valley, Xirocampos), Kalymnos (Empolas, etc.), Tilos (Kastellos), Karpathos (Brykous), Ro and notably Nisyros, where Vlachopoulos describes Palaiokastro – with its six towers and over 200m of wall – as “one of the most impressive, best-preserved fortification works of the ancient world.” Castle lovers will also delight in Byzantine, Crusader and later fortresses on Rhodes, Kos, Kalymnos, Leros, Patmos, Nisyros, Alimnia, Chalki and Kastelorizo (“Castello Rosso”). The Dodecanese reached a peak when Hellenistic Rhodes emerged as a major, far-reaching sea power, whose code of maritime law ruled the Eastern Mediterranean. Commerce and resulting prosperity flourished, until the Romans, eager to exert their own expanding imperial authority, moved into the area, suppressed

The Lady of Kalymnos, bronze statue, 2nd century BC.

The Hospital of the Knights of St. John on Rhodes was first restored under Italian rule in the early 20th century; today, it houses the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes.

WELCOME HISTORY

Rhodes and opened Delos (166 suffered invasion by forces from BC) as a competing free port. the Italian peninsula. Although Affluent Romans built luxurious initially welcomed as liberators villas, baths and temples, while from the Turks, and ruling relatively benignly until the 1930s, Julius Caesar, a prominent investor in the region, once enthese latest Italians, with the rise dured an infamous kidnapping of fascism, eventually ratcheted by pirates (74 BC), records the up their authority – heavy-handedly imposing Italian culture on biographer Plutarch (Jul. Caes. the Greek islanders; redirecting 1,2), near the Dodecanese island of Pharmakoussa (Farmachildren’s education away from konisi). Ultimately ransomed Greece towards Italy; levying after thirty-eight days, during taxation without political rights; which he calmly wrote poetry attempting to cut ties between and speeches, Caesar promptly the Greek Orthodox Church and hired a ship, tracked down his Constantinople; and banning or former captors and had them regulating Orthodox-related crucified. activities including festivals, As the Roman Peace waned pilgrimages, weddings and funerals. The Dodecanese econoin the 3rd c. AD and the Empire my stumbled, as shipping, trade was sub-divided, the Dodecanese, initially ruled by Byzanand local industries were also tium, entered a long period of restricted. Leros’ deep natural alternating turmoil and quieport at Lakki (“Portolago”) beMarch 7, 1948: King Pavlos and Queen Frederica celebrate the tude. After the Crusaders’ capcame a major Italian naval base. official integration of the Dodecanese into the Greek state. ture of Constantinople (1204) On the positive side, Italian and during the Frankokratia archaeologists conducted numerous excavations, restored (13th-16th c.), the islands intermittently fell under the authority of either Byzantine or Western important monuments and greatly expanded their era’s knowledge of the islands’ rich past. rulers, particularly the Knights of St. John. They seized Rhodes Perhaps no individual island’s history is more iconic of the in 1309, converting it into the seat of a mini-empire that soon Dodecanese’s tumultuous struggle and foreign exploitation in encompassed the entire archipelago. Evocative traces of their the first half of the 20th century than that of Kastelorizo. World regional command are widely evident, especially in the castle, Wars I and II encouraged successive occupations of Kastelorizo Grand Master’s Palace and medieval city of Rhodes. In 1522, by the French (1915-21), Italians (1921-43) and British (1943however, the Dodecanese succumbed to the Ottoman Turks. 47). The Dodecanese generally were used by the Allies as a Their rule was briefly interrupted by the Venetians (1570) and the staging area in both conflicts, which led to repeated enemy Greek independence movement (1820s), but the Dodecanese bombardments. German bombing of Kastelorizo (1917-18) and were left out of the new Greek State that formed after the 1821 Leros (1943) were particularly destructive and deadly. Not until Revolution and remained under Turkish control until Italy took 1947 were the Dodecanese islands finally incorporated into the over the group in 1912 – without Kastelorizo. modern state of Greece. RECLAMATION, RAVAGES AND REVIVAL Today, with war’s harrowing echoes swept away, the tranquil With the outbreak of the Italo-Turkish War (1911) and the Dodecanese offer untold opportunities for history-seeking adventurers. Dodecanese’s subsequent takeover, the islands once again

THROUGH THEIR HISTORY, THE DODECANESE PEOPLE ON THEIR SCATTERED, VULNERABLE ISLANDS OFTEN HAD TO CHOOSE SIDES, FORM ALLIANCES AND SUFFER LENGTHY SERVITUDE UNDER FOREIGN MASTERS, WHILE ON A PATH TO EVENTUAL FREEDOM. 62

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WELCOME IDENTIT Y

PRIDE OF PLACE Like a small fleet on the southeast fringes of the Aegean, the Dodecanese islands stay on a course that has always been Greek, yet also eminently cosmopolitan.

BY A N TON I S N I KOL I S

01. Large crowds attended the ceremony marking the annexation of the Dodecanese islands into the Greek State, March 7th, 1948. | 02. Three generations of Karpathian women outside the famous Folia taverna.

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A boatv carrying sponge divers leaves port, as captured by the prolific mid-20th century photographer Dimitris A. Harissiadis. Kalymnos Island, 1950.

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FROM THE BOOK “RHODES-ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF PHOTOGRAPHY 1850-1950”

WELCOME IDENTIT Y

01. Α boy from the village of Menetes, Karpathos, sets off for an afternoon soccer game. | 02. Boys dressed as revolutionary war soldiers for a National Day performance on Rhodes. | 03. Members of the Lyceum of Greek Women Traditional Dance Troupe in Kardamena, Kos. | 04. Playing the bagpipe on a beach. Kalymnos, circa 1935, Elli Papadimitriou.

efore the days of email and text messages, when we still sent cards and letters in stamped envelopes, we would write, under the particular island and postcode (e.g. Kos 85300, for those of us who hail from that island), 12-nese, an abbreviation of dodeka (12) and nisos (island). We are Dodecanesians, living in the 12-isles. Closely affiliated, after a fashion, with that number: twelve noon, twelve midnight, the Twelve Gospels, the Apostles, the months. After 3, 7 and 9, twelve is the next magic number in the sequence. Except for one thing: there are not exactly twelve. There are several more; fifteen main islands and 93 islets, 27 of which were inhabited as of 2006. From Patmos to Kastellorizo, the ferry boat usually takes as many hours as it does for the route from Athens to Patmos; in other words, not only do our islands number more than twelve, they are also scattered across a sizeable area on the southeast fringes of the Aegean. So perhaps the geographical term Southern Sporades, the older appellation of this island complex, would better describe our region. 66

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Moreover, “Southern” suggests “Northern,” and “Eastern” and “Western,” too, for that matter. The geographical definition in itself highlights the unity of this island region with the rest of the Aegean. Those of our grandparents who, born at the start of the 20th century, spent their childhood under the Ottomans, and their adolescence and adulthood under the Italians, the Germans and the British, were driven to fight for unification with the rest of Greece by this strong awareness of an organic unity. Ethnologically and culturally, in the wider sense, the island world of the Aegean is irrefutably undivided. It is, however, subdivided into distinct regions: the islands of the Northern and Eastern Aegean; Evia; the Sporades; the Cyclades; Crete; the Dodecanese. The boundaries of these districts are obscured due to the interrelatedness of the islands: is there a difference, for instance, between Patmos and Samos, or Astypalea and Amorgos, or Karpathos and Kasos and Crete? The thought has often crossed my mind that if I were to be led blindfolded through lanes and neighborhoods unknown

W E L C O M E I D E N T I T Y

The kafeneio, then and now: On the left, Kos, 1955. On the right, Karpathos 2018.

to me, not just on Kos but also on Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos, Nisyros, Symi, Tilos, Halki and Rhodes, or anywhere else in the region for that matter, and I was then asked, eyes uncovered, to say where I was, some kind of intuitive sense of place would prompt me to reply: “I don’t know exactly where, but I know I am in the Dodecanese.” But having said that, our islands are quite distinct from one another. It may be that this intuitive sense is evoked by the light, that is to say by the geographical coordinates of the region, or perhaps by the proximity of our islands to southeast Asia Minor (i.e., to ancient Caria and Lycia). Or maybe it is evoked by the particular historical, Mediterranean adventure of this offshoot of Hellenism: the roughly two centuries when the Dodecanese was under the rule of the Knights of St John (ca. 1306-1522), the chivalric order that came from the Middle East before eventually settling in Malta. Or perhaps by the more recent three decades of Italian occupation (1912-1943), a defining period for several reasons, whose influence is still evident on the islands today.

Or even by the pervading cosmopolitan character, as much in the architecture as in the way of life of the towns and smaller communities of our islands. And yet, all of the above may well come across as idiosyncratic projections, similar somehow to the way that, riven by emotion and with great poetic license, we invent different reasons when asked why we love our homeland. The most honest answer is, of course, the word “affinity.” I love my homeland because, of all other places, it is the one with which I feel the closest affinity. I remember observing how, on my mother’s side of the family (they came from the urban middle class of Kos Town), grandmothers, aunts and female cousins would set the table and serve meals following an etiquette that differed from the traditional French form that other middle-class Greeks adopted. I would later find the same conventions in Hora, the main town of Patmos, as well as in corresponding circles on Rhodes, but also in a book about the cuisine and middle-class practices of Smyrna. There also seems to be a particular Dodecanesian character

THERE IS SOMETHING HERE THAT IS UNBEARABLY FED UP WITH WHAT IS SUPERFLUOUS, THAT ATTRIBUTES THE HIGHEST AESTHETIC VALUE TO ANYTHING THAT SAFEGUARDS THE MINIMALLY ESSENTIAL. 68

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W E L C O M E I D E N T I T Y

Celebrating the Dormition of the Virgin Mary on Kasos.

in the working-class neighborhoods of our islands, such as in the port town of Skala on Patmos, in parts of Kalymnos, in the Halouvazia neighborhood of Kos and in the lanes of the Old Town of Rhodes. For all their diversity due to their geographical fragmentation, the local Dodecanesian vernaculars (as I learned studying linguistics) are classified under the southeast island idiom, together with those of eastern Crete and Cyprus. To an islander, islands are never pieces of land surrounded and cut off by the sea; on the contrary, they are floating worlds in constant motion. On this watery planet, every island group is also a fleet. This is especially true for our own isles, a tiny fleet on the southeast fringes of the Aegean on a course that has always been Greek, yet, on account of its history, a fleet that is also eminently cosmopolitan, which is why it is ideally suited to the particular kind of economy afforded by tourism. In 1989, after my studies and military service, when I decided to settle on Kos, and return permanently to the place where I had lived until my adolescence, I planned, then, among my many other youthful schemes, that if I ever had a whole year to spare, I would spend one month on each island in the Dodecanese and write a short story about each, with just the names of the particular islands as headings. The entire collection was to be titled “Dodecanese” or simply “Twelve.” In the meantime, and since life itself proves much more thrilling than our plans, I got involved in other things; and besides, the Dodecanese are not just twelve (nor would be the months that I would have to allot to the project)... so, for now, the “South Sporadiot” has largely outflanked the Dodecanesian within me.

But then again, one should definitely not rule out what might come to pass over the years; perhaps at some time in the future I will tear through every vessel in our fleet down here; the months of the journey will of course be more than twelve, and the title of the short story collection will be Southern Sporades rather than Dodecanese. Until such time, my innermost distillation regarding a homeland (namely Kos, although I think that it also applies by extension to the totality of our islands) has already been recorded in my short story, “Daniel Goes to Sea” – below is the relevant excerpt: “There is something about the Near East, I sometimes think, perhaps it’s the fatigue following the millennia of living in the same spot, of places and cities that remain the same, sometimes prosperous, sometimes in decline; there is something here that is unbearably fed up with what is superfluous, that attributes the highest aesthetic value to anything that safeguards the minimally essential. See to it that anything you make becomes exactly as much as you need it to be. Little or great as it may have need. Then it will also be incontestably beautiful. This is what beauty is over here.”

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Born on Kos in 1960, Antonis Nikolis is a writer and novelist with a background in classical literature. His work has been turned into plays, he has published several novellas and novels, and he regularly writes op-eds. (antnikolis.blogspot.com)

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ADVERTORIAL

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KALYMNOS

ACTIVE, ADVENTUROUS AND WELCOMING

alymnos is the fourth largest island in the Regional Unit of the Dodecanese, which also includes the islands of Rhodes and Kos in the southeastern Aegean Sea. The island, which is located seven nautical miles north of Kos, covers an area of 109 square kilometers and is the third most populous island in the Dodecanese. Telendos and Pserimos are two small neighboring islands, both inhabited, that belong to Kalymnos. Once famous as the home of the world’s best sponge divers and as a center of sponge trading, the island has recently become a first-class rock-climbing destination. The Kalymnos landscape is, as you might expect, rocky. Its majestic mountain slopes are fragrant with thyme, sage and oregano, all giving the local honey its superior taste. The island itself has unspoilt villages and settlements that offer breathtaking views and romantic sunsets, as well as beaches with crystal-clear turquoise waters. There are fascinating archaeological monuments, charming whitewashed chapels and churches with unique architectural elements. Kalymnos hosts cultural and religious festivities,

and its residents manufacture tasty local products made from homegrown natural ingredients, the same delicious items that form the basis for the delicious local cuisine. Most of all, the island boasts a warm-hearted hospitality, as visitors to its beautiful shores can attest. Everywhere you look there are challenges for outdoor enthusiasts: picturesque hillsides and rugged ridgelines for trekking; rich sea beds, sunken cities and shipwrecks accessible to snorkelers or scuba divers; unexplored caves; and unique rock formations for climbing. Obsessed with sports, fitness, and exercise? The island’s municipal sports center includes a 50m open pool, a synthetic-turf soccer pitch, a rubber athletics track, an indoor gym, and a basketball and volleyball court. Tennis courts also available at the island’s tennis club. The 14,000 locals, the mild weather, the numerous activities and the easy access make Kalymnos a year-round vacation destination. Pothia, the island’s capital and main harbor, has a colorful collection of small houses built on slopes that rise amphitheatrically around the port. The town offers all necessary modern amenities and facilities.

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ADVERTORIAL

INFO CLOSEST INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT:

Kos International Airport (Hippocrates)

GETTING THERE:

Kalymnos can be reached: By direct domestic flight from Athens. By various flights to Kos International Airport (domestic, low cost or charter) then from Kos airport by taxi to the port of Mastichari (10min) from where ferries regularly make the Mastichari - Pothia

(Kalymnos) run (30 – 45min). Alternatively, flights to Rhodes and Samos and then ferries to Kalymnos. By ferry from Piraeus. By ferry from all Dodecanese islands and from Samos.

TRANSPORTATION:

Local buses run frequently every day between the main town of Pothia and the villages. Car and scooter rentals are available, and the island has a number of taxis.

ACCOMMODATION & RESTAURANTS:

A wide range of accommodations to suit all tastes is available around the island and

on the neighboring islands of Pserimos and Telendos. Restaurants, cafés, bars and minimarkets are located within walking distance of all accommodation facilities in each village.

MUSTS:

Archaeological Museum of Kalymnos • The Folk and Maritime Museum • The Medieval Fortress of Hora • The Monastery of Saint Savvas • Easter festivities • The romantic sunset on Telendos, featuring the legendary profile of “the Princess of Telendos” • The fjord of Vathy •

The Kalymnos Climbing Festival • The traditional shipyards • the sponge warehouses • Kalymnian honey • Local dishes •

TOURIST INFO:

For info, check www.kalymnos-isl.gr, or send a message to mto@kalymnos.gr. At the port, just before the exit from the harbor, you’ll find the Municipal Tourist Office (open on weekdays from 07:0015:00) where you can get detailed info. (Tel. (+30) 22430.292.99)

USEFUL CONTACTS: Kalymnos Hoteliers Association:

www.kalymnos-hotels. com Kalymnos Association of Tourist Accommodation: E-mail: xeniaskalymnos@ gmail.com

EXPERIENCE SAILING

AT SEA LEVEL

Cruising around the Dodecanese on a sailboat brings about a shift in perspective, revealing – both literally and figuratively – new viewpoints. BY HEINR ICH HA LL

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Â© VISUALHELLAS.GR

The islet of Kastri, off the coast of Kos.

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EXPERIENCE SAILING

magine waking up in the early morning, your bed gently rocking from side to side in a soothing, rhythmic way reminiscent of the respiration of some enormous slumbering beast, your ears catching the muffled creaking of ropes and wood. As you step out on deck, you’re dazzled by the brilliant light of the Greek sun, but comforted by a tender breeze. Gazing away from land, you see the waters of the Aegean, ranging from the deep and impenetrable dark blue of the horizon to a variation of lighter colors as the surface of the sea a few hundred yards out ripples in the wind. Here and there you glimpse some flecks of brilliant white foam on a cresting wave. Closer at hand, the water surrounding the boat is an almost transparent green; you can see the undulating sand below, where little fish are stirring up the sea floor. Looking around, you find yourself anchored in a small cove, far away from roads or cities, from crowds and commerce. This is a place that has always been the way it is now. On both sides, grey limestone cliffs plunge into the water, encircling a small sandy beach that marks the end of a short ravine. The beach itself is shaded by a lone tamarisk or two, and in the ravine you see some late-flowering oleander bushes. On the higher reaches, there are tangles of shrubs, and the aroma of wild thyme is wafting on the breeze. It’s peaceful here, and quiet without being silent. What you can hear includes the lapping of the waves against your boat and the sound as they strike on the nearby rocks. The cicadas, somewhere ashore, are loud, and there’s the buzzing of a stray bee and the plaint of seagulls. If you concentrate a little, you can catch a distant tinkling of goat bells, the sound of summer itself. If you’re patient – and you have no reason not to be – the goats will appear, leaping merrily across jagged rocks and bleating at one another before

A gulet cruise boat in the harbor of Gialos, the charming port town of Symi.

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AS YOU STEP OUT ON DECK, YOU’RE DAZZLED BY THE BRILLIANT LIGHT OF THE GREEK SUN BUT COMFORTED BY A TENDER BREEZE.

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EXPERIENCE SAILING

Red sky at night near Leros.

eventually descending to the beach for a sip or two of salt water. A bird of prey is flying in tight lonely circles close to the mountain peak high above you. These are the impressions of just a few minutes, the first thoughts of a brandnew day. Perhaps you spent the previous evening planning what to do, or maybe you slept the deep, dreamless sleep of the exhausted mountain climber or avid swimmer. You might have whiled away the evening aboard ship with friends, enjoying local wine and deep conversation. You could be truly blessed, and have spent the night entangling your limbs with those of a loved one, a discreet sea swell rocking you along and sweetening your embraces. But all of that doesn’t matter now: a new day has begun, and its tone has been set by the sheer beauty that surrounds you, promising so much, either at sea or on land.

Riding the waves is the best way to explore the Dodecanese.

What I’ve just described isn’t some fantasy; it’s a very real experience, one that is available on the more remote shores of nearly all the major islands of the Dodecanese (the description I just gave is based on a particular cove in Kalymnos), and perhaps even more so on the small islets scattered between them. It isn’t, or doesn’t have to be, a spectacular once-in-a-lifetime event. It’s something that is, in fact, easy to find, although there’s one condition: you need to be on a small boat. The islands of the Dodecanese have been sculpted by the sea for eons and, since the earliest days of prehistory, the sea has been both a barrier and a connector between these land masses, shaping the lives and cultures of the humans inhabiting them. Thus, the character of these islands is defined as much by the region’s waters and seascapes as it is

THESE PLACES IMPART AN UNFORGETTABLY SOOTHING SENSE OF THE ETERNAL TIMELESS RHYTHM OF LAND AND SEA.

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by its rocks and landscapes. There are many enjoyable things to do on each of the islands, but to really appreciate their maritime nature, that element that has permitted them to be different from one another, to be at times cosmopolitan and at times primeval and remote, you need to approach them by sea. Cruising the Dodecanese for a few days or a week, not on a cruise ship but on a small vessel, preferably a sailboat (this was, of course, the way everyone traveled between these islands until quite recently) brings about a shift in perspective, revealing – both literally and figuratively – new viewpoints. Travelers who approach the islands this way discover another world, a universe of different colors and textures and the concomitant emotions that these conjure up: curiosity, wonder, joy and contentedness. What’s more, a small boat offers you access to places that are hard or impossible to visit otherwise. Let me give some examples. The coves on the unspoilt eastern coast of Kalymnos and on other islands offer that sense of harmony and mellow serenity that I spoke of at the start of this article. These places impart an unforgettably soothing sense of the eternal timeless rhythm of land and sea. They

Window to endless shades of BLU!

INDULGE INTO “THE LINDOS BLU EXPERIENCE”

Lindos, 85107 Rhodes, GREECE

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www.lindosblu.gr

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AHOY THERE!

A view of Nisyros from Gyali.

also make good starting points for exploration further north, towards sinuous Leros, remote Lipsi and Arki, or even the holy island of Patmos. If you like exploring ancient ruins, the stupendously rocky islet of Telendos, near Kalymnos, is an incredible place. A steep mountain jutting out from a deep, amphitheatrically shaped gulf, it now has only a few inhabitants. Things must have been very different in the early Byzantine years, as indicated by the remains of half a dozen churches, a well-preserved necropolis, and the ruins of a stupendous clifftop fortified town. On a calm day, you’ll find a whole series of tiny sandy beaches well hidden below the steep cliffs of the Kefalos Peninsula in western Kos. These spots are absurdly picturesque and impossible to reach any other way. They give you the impression that, apart from lucky sailors like you, only mermaids (or mermen?) frequent them. Anchor off Gyali, between Kos and

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Nisyros, and you’ll get to swim in spectacularly clear waters over a fine white sand bottom. You can also wade ashore to look for the ubiquitous pumice stones (fun to play with, because they float), or for the glistening seams of obsidian that run through the rugged lava cliffs. Don’t try to climb the cliffs, though; they’re brittle and treacherous. Around Pergousa, to the west of Nisyros, you can take shelter from the prevailing western winds, finding a perfectly calm patch of blue sea, a haven of stillness when the surrounding seas are agitated and flecked with whitecaps. Walking about on this uninhabited island, you’ll find the remains of past human existence: collapsed fieldstone walls and enclosures left behind by shepherds in recent centuries, along with the foundations of an ancient tower, built over 2,000 years ago to keep watch over the boats passing from the Cyclades to the Dodecanese or vice versa. Touring the Dodecanese by sea is not the only way to approach these wonderful islands, but it is a unique one; an experience that is infinitely enjoyable, and wonderfully unpredictable!

Heinrich Hall is an archaeologist trained in Aegean prehistory and Classical Greece. He works as a tour expert with UK-based Peter Sommer Travels. He has published work in the Athens News and the Frankfurter Allgemeine, as well as on www.petersommer.com/blog.

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To sail or motor between the islands on a small boat for several days, you can charter any one of a variety of boats – bareboat or skippered – available from all of the larger islands. For larger groups, traditional multi-cabin motor sailors known as gulets are a superb and stylish option. A week-long Dodecanese boating itinerary can focus on seascapes and beaches, on harbor towns with their restaurants and bars, on cultural and archaeological content, or on any combination of these features. An itinerary starting from and ending at Kos could easily take in: the neighboring islet of Pserimos, small and unspoilt; Kalymnos, with the great town of Pothia and the lonely coves; Leros, another island of many hidden secrets; and the rock that is Telendos. Starting from Rhodes, a week’s travel could include: Symi with its beautiful harbor town; verdant Tilos; volcanic Nisyros; remote Chalki; and then a return to Rhodes. Starting from Leros or Patmos, one could take in the Byzantine wonders of Patmos and the islets eastwards of Patmos or northwards of Leros, including Lipsi, Arki and other idyllic spots. Dodecanese boat trips are available from many operators, usually on a Saturday-to-Saturday schedule. One well-established company is UK-based Peter Sommer Travels (www.petersommer.com), with culturally focused gulet cruises for up to 16 guests guided by a team of archaeologists. Apart from scheduled tours in the Dodecanese, they also offer tailor-made private charters. For bareboat or skippered charters on smaller yachts, Greek operators include: Vastardis Yachting (www.vastardisyachting.gr) and Istion (www.istion.com), each with boats available in both Rhodes and Kos; and Kavas (www.kavas. com), based in Kos. These operators may be able to offer itineraries of less than a week’s length.

BAKLAVAS-KARPATHOS

FRESH FISH - LEROS COOKING FOR THE FESTIVAL

MITATO IN KASOS

TA S T E L O C A L C U I S I N E

A DIVERSE CULI

Although each island of the Dodecanese has its own food traditions, together the area prese 82

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VINEYARD - LEROS

DOLMADES - KALYMNOS

CLAMS - RHODES © CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

NARY PROFILE B Y J O H N PA PA D I M I T R I OU

nts a fascinating regional cuisine formed by a unique combination of common factors. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

MAKAROUNES - KASOS

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n Kalymnos, you’ll find sun-dried bonito and other goodies from the sea, baked in the sun; enduring delicacies first introduced by the island’s sponge divers, who would catch fish when at sea and lay them out with a little sea salt to dry onboard. On Symi, they cook squid with a wild green known as loupevra, which grows on the islet of Hondros and is sweeter than the bitter stuff you find in other parts of Greece. On Rhodes, where the Italians had a positive influence on both cheese-making and wine-making, the locals are also obsessed with cumin, a flavor they picked up from the Turks. Further south on Karpathos, the makarounes (a local pasta) of Olympos, made by hand with local flour and served with sautéed onions and myzithra cheese, are a mirror of the local economy: a mountainous island, Karpathos produces more farmers and shepherds than fishermen, and the island’s steep hills have been terraced to provide room to grow grain. On almost all of the islands, you’ll find a magical marriage between pulses and pasta, another vestige of Italian influence. A number of factors contributed to the shaping of the cuisine of the Dodecanese, and many of these still have an impact on it today. For one thing, widespread piracy from the 12th to the early 16th centuries drove residents up into the hills, forcing them to turn their hand to farming and animal husbandry rather than to seek subsistence from the sea. The hot weather forced them to invent new ways of preserving food; for instance, spinialo, the meat of the grooved

sea squirt (known locally as fouskes), is kept in containers full of seawater. Trade, meanwhile, was boosted by the access to international markets that the Dodecanese islands (with the exception of Kos and Rhodes) were granted by their Ottoman rulers. On Leros, for example, we find guava, a tropical fruit originally imported from Egypt. The custom of fasting, a religious observance, was in part responsible for the tradition of pickling, in which huge jars were filled with vinegar-soaked vegetables, while poverty itself gave birth to all sorts of other clever culinary “solutions,” including the chickpea fritters of Rhodes, known as pitaroudia. Naturally, the flora and fauna native to each island has also had a major impact on the cuisine. Astypalea has excellent saffron and delicious white sweet potatoes; Lipsi has the Fokiano grape, a wonderful variety that yields a sweet wine that once traveled all the way to the Vatican; and Symi has a local fruit called kroukouko that is gathered in the autumn and turned into marmalade, as well as finger-licking good shrimp. On Rhodes, locals make a delicious bread with mavragani flour and eat rich bean stews made with lopia, local beans capable of growing in arid soil. On Arki and Marathi, meanwhile, they gather capers from the surrounding islets and on Kasos they love their roikia, a type of dandelion green.

SPLIT PEAS - KASOS

WOOD-FIRED OVENS Thanks to significant livestock numbers and a more-than-sufficient supply of vegetables, pulses and olive oil – the oil

ON ALMOST ALL OF THE ISLANDS, YOU’LL FIND A MAGICAL MARRIAGE BETWEEN PULSES AND PASTA, ANOTHER VESTIGE OF ITALIAN INFLUENCE. © GEORGE DRAKOPOULOS

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SPINIALO

MAKAROUNES WITH SAUTEED ONION - KARPATHOS

MOUKOUNIES & BEANS - NISYROS

ROSETIA WITH GARLIC SAUSE - RHODES

KAPAMAS - NISYROS

MELEKOUNI-RHODES

THE FISHERMEN’S WHARF ON KALYMNOS

CANDIED TOMATOES- KOS

from Rhodes enjoys protected geographical indication – the cuisine of the Dodecanese has an abundance of meat recipes and sundry side dishes. There was a time when these dishes would only be served on special occasions, but they have now become part of locals’ everyday lives. On Rhodes, in the village of Apollona, which is surrounded by olive groves, they slow-roast goat in a wood-fired oven together with chickpeas and beans, serving it with potatoes and onions that have been cooked alongside the main dish. in the same oven. At Easter on Kalymnos, a young goat, stuffed with liver, rice and herbs, is placed on a bed of dry vine twigs in a covered clay pot and baked. The pot, known as a mououri, is sealed with dough to protect the meat and once the fire is hot enough, the mouth of the

wood-fired oven is also sealed to ensure that none of the heat or aromas escape. The practice of sealing up the communal village oven is a common one in this area, as is the recipe for stuffed goat. On Karpathos, the locals prefer to stuff lamb and call this dish vyzanti, while on the other islands of the Dodecanese, locals serve up lamb shanks in a traditional dish known as kapama. Pork is also an important part of the Dodecanese diet; it was not banned under Ottoman rule, even though it is forbidden for Muslims. In the past, families would kill a pig in October, carefully remove the hair using boiling water, and then make the entire animal last through the winter, cooking it in different ways. On Kos, for example, pork with bulgur wheat is renowned for its incredible fla-

WIDESPREAD LIVESTOCK FARMING HAS GIVEN RISE, AS IS NATURAL, TO DAIRY PRODUCTION. QUEEN AMONG THESE PRODUCTS IS KASOS’ SITAKA, A SOFT CHEESE MADE OF GOAT’S AND SHEEP’S MILK.

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vor, mainly due to the lard that is cooked with the grain. On Nisyros next door, the locals have a similar dish called moukounies, which is pieces of pork cooked in its own fat and flavored with aromatic oregano. This is a pattern that is repeated on all the smaller islands in the area, the satellites to the main islands; they develop variations on all the basic recipes of their larger neighbors. Kavourmas , a type of cured beef, used to be a staple in the lunch bag of Kalymnos’ sponge divers, eaten along with some dried bread. Today, however, beef kavourmas has disappeared from the local cuisine.

INNOVATION BORN OF NEED Widespread livestock farming has given rise, as is natural, to dairy production. Queen among these products is Kasos’ sitaka, a soft cheese made of goat’s and sheep’s milk; its origins date from the days when, with no way to store milk in the hot summer months, the meagre yield often soured before it could be consumed. Locals took this soured milk and, instead of throwing it away, heated it for long periods, stirring the liquid as it simmered, and eventually a cheese was formed in the cooking pot; this is how sitaka is made.

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creature abundant in local waters; sundried octopus smothered in pepper; sundried lobster tail – another favorite of the divers, who used the smaller lobster legs to flavor fish stews; shellfish, such as the grooved sea squirt, pickled in seawater; and squid ink fried in olive oil. There are many more wonderful local seafood recipes that have been handed down over the years. In the village of Archangelos on Rhodes, for example, they marinate razorfish in a garlic paste for a whole day and then fry it. On Patmos, they specialize in fritters made from squid, octopus and calamari; on Kasos, they cook their octopus in wine with lots of spices; on Halki, they fry rabbit fish (which is said to have come into the area only after the Suez Canal was opened) and sprinkle it with local herbs; on Leros, they cook red mullet with raisins and rosemary; and on Karpathos, they serve flying squid with green beans and potatoes. On all the smaller islands with their delightful fishing grounds – Agathonisi, Kastelorizo, Pserimos, Telendos, Tilos and Arki – you’ll find fresh fish and other seafood prepared with local herbs and spices and cooked in a variety of different ways.

TAKING THE LIVESTOCK TO GRAZE ON SARIA ISLAND

A similar technique – developed for the same reasons – yields the krasotyri (“wine cheese”) of Kos. This hard goat’s milk cheese is red on the outside because it is preserved in wine sediment. A desire not to waste soured milk is also the reason why you can’t find the sweet version of trachanas (a form of fermented grain) on Rhodes; the cracked wheat that makes up the main ingredient of this dish is boiled with week-old soured milk instead of the fresh variety that would produce sweeter results, and even though fresh milk is now freely available on the island, the traditional sour trachanas recipe hasn’t changed. The locals’ ingenuity for making the most of nature’s bounty is not restricted to dairy products. The yaprakia of Symi – named after the Turkish word for food made with vine leaves – are made of cyclamen leaves stuffed with split-pea fava paste. On most of the islands, the locals will head out right after a spell of rain to collect snails. They also pickle 88

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samphire, and the buds and leaves of the caper bush; they steam pigweed and purslane; and they make their pasta without the luxury of using eggs. There’s more on hand, too, than wine to quench their thirst. Prickly pear liqueur is made on Symi, while on Rhodes, they use grapes to make the traditional spirit souma. There’s something that sounds similar, soumada, made on Nisyros, but it’s made from almonds, and it’s non-alcoholic. Soumada used to be made from locally grown almonds, but today most of those trees are gone, and so they have to import the beverage’s main ingredient.

PRECIOUS SEAFOOD The sponge divers of Kalymnos and Symi are responsible for some wonderful seafood dishes, created during long sea voyages that required innovative approaches to food sourcing and preservation. Among the many delicious meze that we owe to them are the dried and salted innards of parrot fish, a delicious

JOYFUL SWEETS The customs and traditions of each island often involve particular sweets, especially when it comes to joyful occasions. The star on Symi is akoumia, a kind of doughnut made with boiled rice and sprinkled with rose water, served at New Year’s as part of a ritual to bring luck. At weddings and baptisms, the people of Rhodes serve melekouni, a sesame and thyme honey snap enriched with almonds and citrus zest. On Kastelorizo, these occasions are celebrated with katoumaria, small pies dusted with cinnamon, clove and sugar. The wedding sweet on Leros is the pougi pie, with intense mandarin flavors; the fruit is abundant on the island. In general, apart from sweet preserves, like the wonderful candied cherry tomatoes of Kos, the sweets of the Dodecanese are centered on recipes using flour, butter and spices – ingredients that were always readily available in all households.

grand tour © PERIKLES MERAKOS

D O DECANESE

TREASURES REVEALED

We asked local insiders to introduce us to their islands, and added our own tried and true recommendations.

A work by the great Karpathiot folk artist Vasilis Hatzivasilis (1918-2005) from the Hatzivasilis Museum in Olympos.

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– 89 –

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Love at first sight: a view of Kastelorizo from the sea. The Academy Award-winning film â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mediterraneoâ&#x20AC;? (1991) was shot on this remote island gem, revealing its beauty to the world.

KASTELORIZO 90

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Â© SHUTTERSTOCK

#FrontierIsland #PerfectColors #ProudGreeks #TrueHospitality #OscarWinning #Mediterraneo #DiveEverywhere #BlueGrotto #BucketList #Memories4Life

AREA

SQ.KM.

POPULATION

500

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

307

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

273m

VIGLA

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K A S TELORIZO I NSI DE R

“THE ISLAND’S STORIES FLOW THROUGH MY VEINS” — BY MARILYN TSOLAKIS*

first heard about Kastelorizo as young girl growing up in Australia, as both my parents were born on the island before emigrating in the 1930s. The stories about the island, its people and its proud history flow through my veins in a way that made me really connect with the island the first time I saw it in 1986. I sat on the pier and cried, feeling the presence of my ancestors and knowing I had finally arrived at my spiritual home, where my parents had lived as children. This catharsis was pivotal in helping me to understand who I am today. I keep returning to see the many changes that the island has undergone. I love the colourful homes, the boats and yachts coming and going. I enjoy swimming in the harbor in front of the Megisti Hotel or off the islet of Aghios Georgios and taking long mountain walks and discovering the many layers of history, from the ancient world to the Byzantine era and to the Ottoman, French and Italian rulers that followed. Today, Kastelorizo has proudly reclaimed − and continues to assert − its Greek identity, even as it welcomes others to its shores. You’ll see tourists drinking ouzo at the tavernas lining the bay and, as the sun sets over the beautiful harbor, you’ll feel the romance and the wonder of this magical island that connects people from all over the world. Many people come to experience the island’s numerous celebrations. Whatever month you visit, there’s always something special to discover. Easter mesmerizes; on Good Friday, the Epitaphios (the funerary bier of Christ) is brought down from the churches of Aghios Konstantinos and Aghia Eleni and paraded around the

harbor. The festivities that mark the days after the celebration of the resurrection remind you how much Greeks love to express themselves through the medium of traditional dance, a cultural legacy embraced by all age groups. The patron saints of the island, Konstantinos and Eleni, are celebrated on their feast day, May 21. In July, you’ll find many tourists from Australia (whose families are from Kastelorizo); most of them stay in ancestral homes that have been restored in fitting tribute to their forebears. On July 19, complete strangers may throw you in the harbor or dump water on you. This tradition commemorates the time when a lone priest threw himself into the harbor out of joy, when he saw his people returning to Kastelorizo after having been evacuated during Greece’s War of Independence. The municipality organizes a glendi (party) that includes souvlakia, drinks and a band to close what is a truly enjoyable, if sometimes surprising, day. The recently established international documentary film festival, held in late August and early September, has been gaining recognition. The audiences enjoy the opportunity to sit outside on a warm island night and watch quality movies. For those of you who haven’t visited Kastelorizo yet, let me remind you of the words of Greek poet Cavafy: “May there be many a summer morning when, with what pleasure, what joy, you come into harbors seen for the first time.” Kastelorizo is a beautiful place to visit any time of the year, and I’m glad that I have two island homes – Australia and Kastelorizo.

Marilyn Tsolakis is an English teacher and a coordinator for the group “Friends of Kastelorizo,” which organizes a range of events, including student exchanges, the international documentary festival and others. 92

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The stunning Blue Cave can only be reached by boat.

Â© NIKOLAS LEVENTAKIS D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

EXPLORE NEED TO KNOW: Despite being very small, Kastelorizo was known in antiquity as Megisti (“Great One”). According to the “official” interpretation, this was because it is the largest of the surrounding islands. Then again, it could perhaps be because the ancients had already realized its great geographical importance, being located at the southeastern edge of Greece and Europe and comprising a maritime crossroads between East and West. An outpost of Hellenism – which has left its traces on the island since prehistoric times – it has also long been a meeting point between different peoples. LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT: The small, car-free town of Kastelorizo looks like a painting, with its harbor full of caiques and its colorful houses with red-tiled roofs. Follow one of the alleys that lead to Horafia Square. There, you’ll see the public school as well as two churches: one is the island’s 19th-c. cathedral, dedicated to the patron saints Constantine and Helen, and the other is the majestic 94

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Church of Aghios Georgios of Santrapé, named after one of the local benefactors, Loukas Santrapé. It was built in the early 20th century, but services are no longer held there. SIGHTSEEING: Follow the circular route to Mandraki, the island’s second, more tranquil harbor. Halfway there, a few stone steps lead to the 4th-c. BC Lycian Tomb (a distinctive example of the rock-cut tombs with temple-style facades found in Lycia, on the coast of Asia Minor). Walk up to the Aghios Nikolaos Castle, built by the Knights of the Order of Saint John in the 14th century, to enjoy the view and visit the listed historical building known as Konaki, which houses the Archaeological Museum. There, you can see ancient stone anchors, vases, marble statues and other finds dating from the 4th c. BC. Displays also include Byzantine writing tablets, as well as traditional local costumes and objects of folk art (TueSun 8:30-15:00). More exhibits are to to be found in the old Ottoman mosque which houses the Museum of Folk Art (Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00).

01. So what if there’s no beach? Swimming and sunning on the islet of Ai-Giorgis. | 02. Close encounters: sea turtles share the harbor with the cats. | 03. Fresh fish is an everyday pleasure here.

EXPERIENCE A REWARDING WALK: The most scenic walking route is the one leading to the Monastery of Aghios Georgios tou Vounou. Visit early in the afternoon and return to the harbor by way of the stonepaved path. It will take you about half an hour, and you’ll enjoy a panoramic view of the harbor, Mandraki and the Turkish coastline across the sea. WHERE TO SWIM: Kastelorizo doesn’t have a single sandy beach, even though it has several places for unforgettable dips, from rocky shores to quays with little ladders that make getting into (and out of) the water easy. The most popular spots are in front of the Megisti Hotel at the harbor and, right across, at the Faros Café. Another good option is the concrete platform next to the Agnandi Hotel

K A S TELOR IZO OU R PI CK S

in Mandraki. In the afternoon, when the sunlight softens, it can be very beautiful in Plakes, which can be reached by boat from the harbor. If you hire a boat, you’ll find emerald waters, shade, sun loungers and a stall selling cold drinks at the nearby islet of Aghios Georgios. The famous Blue Cave is also accessible by boat. The opening in the rock is so small that the boatman will ask you to lie flat before entering. Swimming in the cave, in the stunning reflected light, is a unique experience. SAVE THE DATE: “Beyond the Borders,” Kastelorizo’s 3rd International Documentary Festival, will take place at the harbor from August 28 to September 2, with more submissions than ever before. Organized by the Hellenic History Foundation (www.idisme.gr), the festival seeks to establish the island as a meeting place for historical and socio-political documentary film-makers. For program details, visit beyondtheborders.gr. DON’T BE SHY: Make an effort to meet as many locals as you can and to listen to their stories. You’ll come to appreciate the special resilience of those who live on an arid yet charming frontier island.

01. It takes two... for a friendly bit of play in Horafia Square.

03. Fishing with Father Giorgis, the island’s priest.

02. Diving off the pier at the Kavos Lighthouse with the port of Kastelorizo in the background.

04. The Lycian Tomb is an unexpected sight on the walk along the coastal route to Mandraki.

TASTE THE DAILY CATCH: At the harbor in the morning, you can see which taverna gets an express delivery of dusky groupers that are still alive, or where a bonito, sliced down the middle and sprinkled with oregano, is being prepared for the grill. You can see who’s brought in fresh shrimp, which is generally in great abundance and very tasty. Daily availability of fresh fish is a serious enough reason for not wanting to leave the island, even more so given that the prices tend to be very reasonable. Among the best tavernas are Alexandra’s, Lazarakis and Athina. For home-style cuisine, secure a table at Platania Taverna on Horafia Square. Try the stuffed onions, which are known by theTurkish term souam dormasi, and the vrithopites (chickpea fritters). — VASSILIKI KERASTA © NIKOLAS LEVENTAKIS

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KASOS

Marmara Beach on the islet of Armathia, a slice of heaven just a short boat ride away.

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Â© CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

# #FeelsLikeHome #TraditionRules #OpenDoors #ThreeSeas #HeavenlyArmathia #Panigyria #LostInMusic #DownHomeFood #OpenHearted #ReturnTicket

AREA

64 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

1,090

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

219

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

601m

PRIONAS

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K ASOS INSIDER

“ITS GREATEST ASSET IS ITS PEOPLE” © SHUTTERSTOCK

— BY MINAS VINTIADIS

The festival celebrating the Dormition of the Virgin Mary on August 15.

f, as a Kasiot who loves his homeland, I had to talk about only one of the island’s assets, I wouldn’t have to think twice: I would say its people. What is so special about the 1,000 permanent residents and the other 2,500 who return every summer to their homeland from Athens, Rhodes, the US and Australia, eager to see and catch up with friends and relatives? Well, they are beyond welcoming to visitors, feeling that it’s an honor that these people have chosen their island – and not another one that’s easier to reach, or that has trees and countless beaches, cheaper flights and sushi restaurants, noisy bars and lots of museums with rare exhibits. The positive points of Kasos (drawbacks in the eyes of some) are many. First and foremost, there’s the sense of casual familiarity that it inspires. Everyone you meet will bid you good morning, offer you something to eat or drink, drive you where you want to go, or explain anything you don’t understand. Then there’s the island’s unique cuisine, the praises of which are sung by many top chefs. Dolmadakia (stuffed vine 100

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leaves), makarounes with sitaka (a type of homemade pasta with a creamy cheese made from goat’s milk), delicious wild greens, cuttlefish pilaf, lots of fresh fish and much more grace our tables. In the three big villages on the island – Aghia Marina, Fri and Arvanitochori – there are plenty of restaurants, and they all serve local dishes. Then there are the panigyria (traditional festivals), full of local color and the ultimate experience in hospitality. Aside from delicious food to try, there are dances to learn, too, including the Kasiot sousta, and lyres and lutes playing, and it’s all for free. In July, there’s the panigyri of Aghia Marina, in August there are celebrations for feast days involving Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary and Aghios Phanourios, and in September there are others for the fortunate travelers around at the time. The island’s bars are friendly and fun places; the drinks are good and if you’re in the mood for a particular song you can ask for it. As for accommodations, there are several small, welcoming hotels with reasonable prices. Some are more traditional, others more modern, but be advised: demand is high. Book early, view

the rooms online and ask what they offer. All of the swimming spots are nice, but an absolute must is a swim in the Libyan Sea, on the southern side of Kasos, at Helatros Beach, where the water is emerald-green and full of fish for those with spearguns; it’s also where my friend Mary serves delicious treats from her food stand. Visit the island of Armathia, with one of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean, on one of the tourist boats that make regular trips. Visits to the Folk Museum and the Maritime Museum are also recommended; the latter is home to one of the best private collections of nautical artifacts, amassed by Captain Antonis Hatzipetros. Pay heed to how you get to Kasos: the faster boat takes 15 hours and direct flights are expensive. Make sure to either book early or travel smart – such as by flying to either Karpathos or to Sitia on Crete. Then, by ferry or private boat, make the short hop to the most interesting island in the Aegean, Cretan and Libyan seas!

Minas Vintiadis is an author and journalist.

EXPLORE STARTING POINT: Early in the morning, enjoy a Greek coffee together with the fishermen at Matheos’ kafeneio in the small harbor of Bouka, next to the bigger port of Fri. You’ll see fish being bought and sold outside, but you’ll also hear vivid accounts of Kasos’ history, which is dominated by the story of the Turkish-Egyptian armada setting fire to the island in 1824, and by tales of adventures at sea, as Kasos has always been home to seafarers. Sea captains, ship owners and sailors have always defined everything here, from food to festivals and the interior design of homes, and they still do. To learn more, visit the Nautical Museum (Open daily 10:00-13:00). A LOOK INSIDE: In the afternoon, stroll around the villages of Aghia Marina 102

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(with its gorgeous sunset colors), Arvanitochori and Panaghia, all within close distance of Fri. Observe the majestic churches with their imposing bell towers, and the captains’ houses in pastel colors, and don’t hesitate to ask to have a peek inside – Kasiots rarely say no. You’ll spot shelves laden with porcelain plates and other decorative objects, brought back by the sailors from their travels. Notice the columns in the center of the houses, on which a headscarf is hung: the pillar supports the roof and symbolizes the man of the house, the absent captain.

see how the white-aproned men cook the pilaf rice and then form a human chain to serve it, passing the traditional glass plates from hand to hand. The revelry begins with mantinades (narrative songs made up of rhyming couplets) in honor of the saint being celebrated. The tempo of the music varies from song to song, and no one leaves before dawn.

EXPERIENCE

01. The small harbor of Bouka, in Fri. | 02. Homes built by wealthy sea captains in Arvanitohori. | 03. The Monastery of Aghios Mamas, the patron saint of shepherds, is located in a rugged area in the northeast of the island. | 04. The pebblemosaic floor inside the Church of Aghios Mamas, from the mid-19th century.

JOIN IN THE FUN: Kasos is one of the very few Aegean islands where traditional feasts retain their authentic, non-commercial character. You’ll be impressed to

THE SOUND OF MUSIC: There are more than 60 different Kasiot rhythmic song patterns. Their “sacred” tune is the alenti,

and you’ll recognize it by the enthusiasm or emotion of the performer. It is the most difficult of all songs, but also the sweetest. The pear-shaped lyres of the Dodecanese, with kounia (bows bearing tiny bells), survive only in Kasos, Karpathos and Halki. Children learn to play instruments at a young age. Traditional dances, such as the sousta and zervos, and the art of the mantinada seem to run in their blood. SOMETHING DIFFERENT: You can spend a night at the Monastery of Aghios Georgios, patron saint of Kasos, at Hadies, in the southwest. Its secluded location is enchanting. If you notify the keeper of the monastery in advance, you will be treated to a dinner of ofto, a dish of slow-roasted lamb. Municipality of Kasos (Tel. (+30) 22450.412.77). BEST SWIMS: From Fri you can reach

Helatros Beach, on the southeast tip of the island, by way of a beautiful, winding, 14-km route. Helatros is a sandy bay with emerald waters and a sense of isolation, despite Mary Dimitriou’s food stand (where she serves tasty home-made burgers) and a scattering of beach umbrellas. For complete isolation, the pebble beaches of Trita and Avlaki can be reached after an hour’s downhill walk from the Monastery of Aghios Georgios. LITTLE PARADISE: Marmara is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece, not only for its fine white sand and blue waters, but also for the sense of seclusion it offers – it’s located on the uninhabited islet of Armathia across from Kasos. You can get there on Giorgos Manousos’ boat (Tel. (+30) 22450.410.47).

On Kasos, children learn from a young age to play the lyra and dance traditional dances: it’s a way of life.

A SCENIC ROUTE: From Poli, the island’s former capital, it’s a pleasant drive to the chapel of Aghia Kyriaki with its stunning views (the sunrise from here is exceptional). The same route will also take you to the 19th-c. Monastery of Aghios Mamas in the northeast, built in a magnificent location full of craggy outcroppings and with a boundless view over the sea. The annual festival, held here every September 2, is quite a moving experience. ART THERAPY: In Fri, seek out the Old Dispensary, where an arts and crafts exhibition featuring local artists will run throughout the summer.

TASTE ALL THAT’S GOOD: As a rule, Kasiots use whatever they produce locally, so what is referred to on other islands as the “traditional local dish” is, in fact, just part of everyday life here. Definitely try the dormaes (miniscule stuffed vine leaves); the seafood, no matter how bizarre it may appear (Mediterranean parrotfish prepared whole with scales and entrails intact; grooved shellfish cooked in seawater; or salted blotched picarel); and, above all, the famous makarounes with sitaka and onions sauteed in fresh butter. SAY CHEESE: Kasiot farmers produce excellent cheeses, including sitaka, myzithra (a ricotta-style cheese), as well as elaiki, a type of myzithra that’s aged for 2-3 months in butter. Other products include drilla (sour cream from goat’s milk) and psitari, a special local butter. Visit a mitato, or shepherd’s hut, to learn about cheese production in fascinating detail (trivia: the stirring stick is made of ram’s horn or a special kind of wood). Ask them to make you some alevra – a porridge of milk and flour drenched with melted Kasiot butter and eaten straight out of the cauldron. The only fully modernized, 104

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certified dairy is Bonapartis (Tel. (+30) 22450.419.53). FROM THE SOURCE: You can buy local honey either from shops or directly from beekeepers such as Antonis Sevastos, who also makes candles, beeswax ointments, rakomelo liqueur and more, and sells them at the Mylos Taverna in Fri. HUNGRY? For breakfast or for special treats, there is the café Chez Jean in Bouka, serving homemade savory pies, pastries and honey dumplings, and Plateia Café, which has ice cream, waffles and diples (crisp, sheet-like fritters with walnuts and honey). For Kasiot desserts, including xerotigana (the local version of diples), xylikopites (fried dough with honey) and moschopoungia (sweet aromatic crescent-shaped pies stuffed with almonds), head to Koula’s pastry shop in Fri. BEST MEALS: After a dip at the popular beach of Emporio, you can enjoy a good meal at the small taverna of the same name; it belongs to Giorgos Kikis and Mihalis Aspras and is famous for its excellent food, which includes lobster spaghetti, fresh fish, spiny chicory and snails. The

K ASOS OUR PICKS

01. The sandy stretch at Helatro Beach with its crystal-clear waters. | 02. Making makarounes, the local pasta. | 03. Sitaka, a soft, sweet-and-sour cheese, is best enjoyed with a kouloura rusk or mixed in with makarounes.

spontaneous revelry that may erupt is an added bonus – one of the owners plays the lyre while the other sings. In Arvanitochori, check out Maroukla’s, not so much for the souvlaki as for the lively village atmosphere of the small square on which this kafeneio sits. For a glass (or two) of ouzo, some delicious mezes and some unusual dishes, stop by the brand-new Yiaeli at Bouka. Try the feta with honey in filo pastry or their makarounes topped with sitaka cheese, with garlic, or with hand-minced pork. If you order it in advance, you can try the lamb with pasparas (liver, rice and tomatoes) stuffing. At Meltemi in Fri, enjoy stuffed calamari, skate with skordalia (a strong garlic dip), and squid cooked in wine, in a rustic setting appropriate to the seafood they serve. Local flavors and homestyle cooking are available at Mylos Taverna in Fri and at Steki in Aghia Marina. — OLGA CHARAMI

KARPATHOS

Enjoying the view of Olympos in Karpathosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wild north.

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Â© NICHOLAS MASTORAS

# #DramaticScenery #VillageHopping #MysteriousRituals #NeverBored #WildIsTheWind #Contrasts #Surf #Climb #Dive #SoManyBeaches #WonderWomen #SurpriseParadise

AREA

302 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

7,310

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

242

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

1220m

MT LASTOS

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“A WORLD UNTO ITSELF” © GEORGE TSAFOS

— BY FOTINI LAMBRIDI*

A local church festival with music from the lyra and tsabouna.

arpathos is the boundless sea backed by tall, steep mountains. It is the waters in which I’ve seen my reflection at its dozens of beaches: green in Apella, blue in Lefkos, turquoise in Afiartis. Karpathos is a cool breeze, gentle and steady, on our backs and on our faces. It is its people, who every morning look up at the mountain peaks to see where the bonentino cloud, the herald of the western wind, has stopped. Karpathos is where you dance the sousta and the pano horos until the early hours at the traditional panigyria (feasts), at times gliding, at times heavy-footed, until you lose yourself in Dionysian ecstasy. Karpathos is the surprise you get as every bend of the road reveals a different landscape; it is the scent of wild thyme, and of freshly baked traditional onion bread and sesame seed-covered bread rings with cumin. Karpathos is the beach of Aghios Nikolaos in Arkasa, with a view of the neighboring island of Kasos, as the sun sinks behind nearby Paliokastro, onetime home to one of the largest slave markets in the Mediterranean. It is the women who speak in lilting voices and see every child of the village as their own, and who joke around in the middle of the square. 108

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Karpathos is Yiannis the fisherman in Finiki telling you stories about all the dollars he turned down in order to be able to wake every morning in his blessed land. It is the American accent you hear from the members of the diaspora who return every summer full of excitement, and leave filled with melancholy. Karpathos is the difficult goodbyes and the joyous reunions. Karpathos is the strong, otherworldly women of Olympos, where myth has it that the gods of Mt Olympus sought shelter, and where Prometheus spent a large part of his life. It is the brides with the traditional kolaines (ornate necklaces festooned with coins). It is the mikropantremenes, those who have married so young that their daughters look like their sisters. Karpathos is for the sit-down feast that never ends as we enjoy each other’s company and improvise poetry, doing battle with mantinades (short, humorous verses) directed at one another in an art form that elevates the spirit – and then the words are carried off on the wind, and the lyra and lute take over. Karpathos is this conversation in song, an art that comes from time immemorial.

Karpathos is the red wine of Othos served at the feast of Aghios Panteleimonas and the delicacies offered freely to all passersby in Menetes and Pyles on August 15. It is the silence of Mesochori at sunset and it is the women who greet me with the words “Welcome, daughter” in hushed voices, so as not to disturb the sacred hour. Karpathos is the panigyri of Aghios Ioannis in Vroukounda, in the little church that is built in a cave right on the water. It is the haunting experience of hearing the slow tavla songs sung around the table at the start of the feast, and the sun that rises before the dancing is finished. It is the singing and drinking ritual of koupa monobasia (a glass is passed from singer to singer and emptied in one gulp). Karpathos is the staccato dialect that you yearn to speak and to hear again, with its humor and the impromptu poetry that emerges from its simplicity. It’s the restless land that you either fall in love with or never set foot on again. It is not a place to simply be liked.

* Fotini Lambridi is a journalist, a lyricist and a radio producer.

Young women from Olympos in traditional dress.

FOCUS THE COLORFUL MYSTERY OF OLYMPOS Due to its remote mountainous location, Olympos remained a closed society for centuries, with electricity and road access available only since the late ‘70s. In the past, it was a matriarchal society, with its own Doric dialect and unwritten laws that still apply, such as the one stipulating that the firstborn son and the firstborn daughter inherit the entire property of the father and mother respectively. Its opening up to the outside world has brought tourism and blunted the differences somewhat, but it still feels a living folk museum. Women wear traditional clothing – elder ones do so every day

– and the village has local traditions for every event, including weddings and births. For instance, a week after a child is born, its guardian saint is selected in a charming ancient version of a baby shower. The festivals here follow their own customs and offer amazing memories. They all start with slow songs performed by seated singers, then gradually a solemn dance begins and before long everyone’s on their feet. Often these festivities turn into lively processions, called patinades, through the streets of the village. — ALEXANDRA TZAVELLA D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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Women of Olympos enter the cave church of Aghios Ioannis, on the 29th of August, the day of his martyrdom.

A service at the cave church of Aghios Ioannis can be a mystical experience.

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Easter Tuesday at Olympos: the energetic “pano xoros” lets the men show off their best moves.

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EXPLORE CENTURIES SIDE BY SIDE: In just three stops, you can traverse the entire history of Karpathos. At Pigadia, the island’s main harbor, the Archaeological Museum of Karpathos (Tue-Sun 9:00-14:00) is housed in the 1935 art deco building that was the provincial headquarters under Italian rule. It holds exhibits from the Neolithic to the Byzantine periods. In Arkasa, on the western side of the island, the ancient altar at the center of the church of Aghia Sofia (5th c.) is used today as a baptismal font. From there, a ten-minute walk will take you to Paliokastro, the ancient city of Arkasa, where Mycenaean walls and columns from the Classical and Hellenistic periods coexist side by side. TIME CAPSULE: Try and get to Olympos before 11:00 or after 17:30, to avoid the crowds. Wandering around the village, you’ll see women working their looms, local artist Popi Pavlidou painting her ceramic plates or the last of the traditional cobblers Yiannis Prearis at work on a pair of stivania (boots). If you’re on the island from August 28 to 30, make sure to attend the panigyri of Vroukounda – no other feast in Greece is quite like it. It takes place outside a remote chapel nestled in a cave right by the sea. You can get there by taking a fishing boat from Diafani or by walking from Avlona. The local women arrive late in the afternoon, leading donkeys laden with supplies for the feast and blankets for the night ahead. No one sleeps, though, as the revelries, which take place against the backdrop of the ancient necropolis illuminated with candles, last all night and the sun rises to the sound of the lyra and the tsabouna (bagpipe). On the second and third day, the festivities move on to Avlona. VILLAGE HOPPING: The elegant village of Aperi is home to grand mansions. Built by renowned local craftsmen, most of

04 © NICHOLAS MASTORAS

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these have been renovated and their owners, who live abroad, use them every summer. At Menetes, a colorful village in the south, it’s worth going up to the Church of the Dormition (1845), with its spectacular iconostasis and the panoramic view from its courtyard. In order to explore tranquil Mesochori (“middle village”), you’ll have to go up and down alleys and steps and cut through courtyards. Cool down with a drink of water from the three springs of Panaghia Vrysiani (1553) and sit at Skopi Café, where the owner maintains his own oldschool database of customers – since 1996, 11,600 visitors have scrawled their names everywhere, from the pergolas to the chairs.

01. Diakofti is one of the loveliest beaches on the southern coast. 02. Flaskia Gorge is an very popular spot for rock climbing.

03. About 2500 very friendly goats live on the Saria islet. 04. Before leaving Café Skopi in Mesohori, make sure people know you were here!

AS IN THE OLD TIMES: You can find out about the older way of life on the island at a number of small museums. The Agricultural Museum in Pyles (daily 10:0013:00 and 18:00-20:00), with its own little farm with chickens and goats, includes exact replicas of a period farmhouse, a wine press and a dairy, as well as a fully operational windmill and a wood-fired oven that produces traditional onion biscuits. The Folk Museum in the village of Othos (Mon-Sat 10:00-13:30) features the interior of a Karpathiot home with examples of intricate needlework, icons, tableware and an elaborate sofas, a raised sleeping platform. In the same neighborhood, in the Workshop Gallery (open 9:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00), you can see George Kostetsos through clouds of sawdust as he creates wooden sculptures and the traditional lyres of Karpathos. The Folk Museum of Menetes displays agricultural tools as well as a handmade, 300-year old kilimi (woven carpet). Open daily 9:00-13:00; the custodian, Eirini Rozaki, will also open up by appointment. (Tel. (+30) 6907.346.445.) INTO THE WILD: Both fans of outdoor activities and history lovers have good reasons to visit the island of Saria, which

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01. Windsurfers from all over the world converge on Afiartis’ three bays. | 02. A balcony with a stunning view in Olympos. | 03. And the Oscar goes to... Apella Beach, named as the one of the best swimming spots in Europe. | 04. Brunch à la Karpathos at Menetes. | 05. Baking bread in the wood-fired oven at the Poseidon Restaurant.

lies north of Karpathos. With an area of barely 21 sq.km, it is the site of an ancient city named Nisyros and you can still see the remains of ancient fortifications and two abandoned settlements – one of which was home to Saracen pirates – as well as six chapels. The main natural attraction, ideal for a fascinating 40-minute hike, is the spectacular Edi, a gorge inhabited by rare birds of prey, such as long-legged buzzards and Eleonora’s falcons. Other residents of the island include the Mediterranean monk seal, which breeds in sea caves and approximately 2,500 goats! For the best view on Saria, head for the chapel of Aghios Zacharias, a 20-minute walk from the 114

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abandoned settlement of Argos, at the end of the Edi gorge. If you come by private boat, instead of the tourist caique, an extra bonus available to you is the secluded white-pebbled Maeria Beach.

EXPERIENCE CLIMBING: Over the recent years, Karpathos has become a climbing destination. There are more than 150 sites, mostly in the interior and southern part of the island. A popular spot is the 500m-long Flaskia Gorge that starts near the beach of Adeia and features 108 routes. Visit www.climbkarpathos.com for more information. If you’re a beginner, Anna

Hristova at the ION Club (Tel. (+30) 6989.805.142) will show you the ropes. HIKING: One of the most beautiful intermediate-level trails is the northbound route between Avlona and Tristomo (3h 20min). You’ll cross a wildlife preservation area to reach a fjord-like bay. On this hike, you’ll see the little chapel of Aghios Nikolaos, built on a pier jutting out over the water, and the ruins of the kazarmas (from the Italian caserma), the Italian barracks at Tristomo. You’ll also get a view of the 150m gap separating Karpathos and Saria, For an additional 22 trails, download the comprehensive Karpathian Paths app. SPLASH: Karpathos has more than 100 beaches. Set your alarm clock early to beat the crowds to the famous Apella Beach, on the east coast, with white sand, emerald waters and either pine trees or beach umbrellas for shade. If you do get

there late and it’s already crowded, head a short distance south to Mikri Apella, where bathing suits are optional. Further south are the beaches of Kyra Panaghia and Achata, both with sun loungers and places to eat. At the southern part of the island, a 15-minute dirt road takes you to Diakoftis, an exotic beach with turquoise waters and sun loungers surrounded by stretches of brushwood and cedars. For those who love snorkeling, Kipos Michaliou features spectacular underwater rock formations. Around the beach there are also caves, whose walls are covered in seashells. On the west coast, the quiet pebbled beach of Araki is perfect for reading your book in the shade of the cliffs. Aghios Nikolaos Beach in Arkasa, has shallow waters, sun loungers and offers a great sunset view of Kasos. For more seclusion, the pebbled beaches of Forokli and Aghios Minas are a good choice – the latter is served by a 24-hour café-bar.

SURF FOREVER: Between May and mid-October, more than 1,000 windsurfers come from all over the world to Afiartis. According to your skill level, you can choose one of three bays: Chicken Bay (for beginners), Gun Bay (intermediate) or Devil’s Bay, if you enjoy the thrill of a 45-knot Etesian wind. There are three schools in operation for lessons or equipment hire. At 20:00 every Sunday, surfers hold a barbeque party at the ION Club Karpathos (Tel. (+30) 22450.910.61). UNDERSEA KINGDOM: With an underwater visibility range of 30m, Karpathos is considered one of the best diving spots in Europe. You can expect underwater labyrinths, walls, caves and shipwrecks, encounters with sea turtles, and, if you are lucky, seals. It’s an ideal place for a first diving experience under the guidance of the qualified trainers of the PADI-certified Karpathos Diving Center (Tel. (+30) 22450.228.60).

TASTE CHEESE, ANYONE? Manouli, the local goat cheese, is a family affair in Karpathos, and taverna owners each produce their own. There are three types: fresh manouli, which is creamy (and difficult to find in the summer), hard manouli in brine and lightly salted manouli that has been sun-dried and dipped in olive oil. ENERGY BOOST: At Marina’s Restaurant in the fishing village of Finiki, Marina, who lived in Florida for 10 years, serves authentic American breakfast with waffles, hand-cut griddle-fried hash browns and eggs. Another great breakfast place is the En Plo Café-Bar in Pigadia, serving fresh blackberry juice and enormous pancakes. For a local-style brunch with homemade jams and omelets made with crunchy artichoke or tsimetes (wild asparagus) and manouli cheese, all washed down with a cup of local mountain tea, D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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The panoramic view from the Church of Aghios Spyridonas at Menetes.

look for Elias’ kafeneio in Menetes, open from 13:00 onwards – they will, however, open earlier if you call them (Tel. (+30) 6977.342.007). Nearby is the village bakery, which stays open 24 hours. In the morning, you’ll see local women kneading dough for onion biscuits and five different types of bread. Buy a piece of baklava and enjoy it on the Instagrammable white-and-blue village steps nearby. EATING OUT: At Milos Taverna, in Olympos, you can look inside a working 300year old windmill, one of the 80 windmills and watermills that used to operate in the village until about 1950. Take a seat in the courtyard for moussaka, wild greens pie baked in a wood-burning oven, and kid goat in tomato sauce. In the village of Spoa, the Folia Taverna operates its own small fishing boat “Aghios Geor116

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gios.” Join the locals for fresh fish and other local seafood specialties, including thrapsala (flying squid) and oven-baked parrotfish. On Adeia Beach, Evdoxia’s Taverna is famous for its makarounes, a type of pasta served with sautéed onions and goat’s butter. At the end of your meal, the house will treat you to a shot of a rustic local wine as a digestive. In Pigadia, the lively port of Karpathos, you’ll find The Life of Angels, a charming traditional eatery in operation since 1921. Its specialty is lamb, slow-cooked for seven hours in a clay pot, and on Sunday nights there is live music featuring a lyra player. Another good option is Orea Karpathos, where you can savor the local tiny shrimp and the house specialty, menoules, a type of small, salted fish. At Uno Pizzeria and at Bella Karpathos, you can taste a local variation on the chicken burger, with homemade bread, grilled chicken, lettuce, tomato, cheese, mayonnaise and a vinaigrette sauce, named the UFO because of its shape. At Menetes,

Perdika is popular with locals and visitors alike, who come here for the juicy grilled meats, the classic Greek dishes and some less usual fare, including snails in a flavorsome tomato sauce. Close to Damatria Beach, you’ll find Poseidon Restaurant. In its beautiful courtyard you can enjoy dishes prepared with fresh local produce and international flair, such as caprese salad with manouli cheese and fish tacos with bonito tuna. It boasts the biggest wine list on the island with 65 selections, all of them Greek. For a truly authentic Karpathos experience, head to the family-owned Aghios Theodoros Taverna, a few meters above the beach of the same name. The establishment is powered entirely by two wind generators, and photovoltaic panels. Before you tuck into its fine, homestyle dishes, go for a swim at the beach below. On Sunday mornings, you’ll see Stasoula, the grandmother, kneading savory makarounes, while her grandchildren play in the courtyard. — ALEXANDRA TZAVELLA

RHODES

The Street of the Knights in the Old Town.

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Â© PERIKLES MERAKOS, MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/EPHORATE OF DODECANESE

# #SunGod #NoWinter #KnightsRule #MedievalCity #Lindos4Ever #Wildlife #GreeceMeetsItaly #TopDestination #AnIsland4All #Vibrant #Sexy #4EveryBudget #LifesABeach #Hangover

AREA

1,400 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

115,490

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

239

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

1,210m

ATTAVYROS

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“FAIRY-TALE WORLD” — BY KATERINA GOGOU*

othing is easier for me than to talk about the Rhodes I love. As a place to settle, this island was a conscious choice and I couldn’t imagine myself living anywhere else. Rhodes adopted me when I was 15, and I have made it the homeland of my heart. Αs a tourist guide, I have come to know it well. I’ve studied its history, explored its mountains and trails, adored its fragrances and flavors, the traditions of each village, the people and their vernacular. Rhodes is all of Greece in miniature. Lindos, with its sparkling-white houses, has a Cycladic feel. The lush-green mountains, full of woods and springs, are reminiscent of the landscapes of northern Greece. Its beaches, with their limpid waters, are amongst the most beautiful in Greece. The western side is full of vineyards, orchards, greenhouses and tranquil farming villages. The new town of Rhodes exudes a unique charm thanks to its Italian buildings and its parks, whereas the Old Town is beyond description – a place where you truly lose all sense of time. As for the island’s natural blessings, what should one mention first? The peony Paeonia clusii (subsp. Rhodia), unique in the world, a bloom with healing powers and an interesting mythology, which in springtime emits a sweet, cinnamon-like scent? The 70 different orchids that grow here? Our small, Rhodian fallow deer that live in the woodlands? The small-bodied wild horses that roam the mountain slopes near the town of Archangelos, which are descended from an ancient breed and have become extinct elsewhere in the Mediterranean? Or our little champion, the gizani (Squalius ghigii), the tiny Rhodian minnow struggling to

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survive in the island’s fresh waters? Rhodes isn’t just a famous tourist destination; it’s an island that has everything. You must allow me, however, to reserve a particular fondness for its Old Town. It’s the best preserved medieval city in Europe and, in contrast to others, it’s not only filled with museums, shops, restaurants and clubs, but is at the same time a truly lived-in city, home to some 2,000 people. Romantic, atmospheric, full of vibrancy and beauty, the Old Town is a veritable time machine that transports you across its entire history. As you stroll through its lanes, you spot ancient ruins next to Byzantine churches; a little further down a medieval castle, and across from it a mosque, a synagogue, or perhaps even Fascist insignia from the time of the Italian occupation. I always compare it to a book that anyone can read, no matter where they’re from or what language they know. Here you see the past come to life before you. It’s an intriguing place of outstanding beauty. It’s always a great pleasure to guide others through the Old Town, to walk with visitors and to see it again through their eyes. I feel elated when I see them enchanted, unable to decide where to look first. I know that it’s feeding their souls, and that they, too, will be forever captivated by its charm. As for me, I know it so well, but each time I take a stroll along its narrow streets, I come across a drinking fountain, a house, a corner I hadn’t previously noticed; there’s always something new to discover. Rhodes touches one’s emotions, deeply. No one can remain unmoved, and this is precisely what makes it so special. So pick a gate and enter this fairy-tale world. Fourni, a gorgeous, off-the-beaten-path beach on the island’s west coast.

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Inside the Palace of the Grand Master.

FOCUS THE LEGACY OF THE KNIGHTS The medieval, walled city of Rhodes, with its broad avenues and narrow, labyrinthine alleys, presents one of the most atmospheric settings you can visit in Greece. A strategically-located commercial and military port, Rhodes came under Roman (2nd c. BC) and Byzantine authority (4th c. AD), then was fought over by Arabs, Genoese, Venetians, Crusaders and Ottoman Turks. The Knights of St. John (Hospitallers) left the greatest mark, seizing the port city in 1309 and fortifying it with massive crenelated walls, towers and elegant gateways. For two centuries, Rhodes served as the seat of the 122

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Knights’ Grand Master, headquarters of a multinational Christian garrison and an important hub for merchants and pilgrims. In addition to age-old houses, chapels, mosques and soaring minarets, the city’s major monuments – all wonderfully restored, initially by the Italians – include the Knights’ Hospital (now the Archaeological Museum, open 08:00-20:00), the Palace of the Grand Master (open same hours), the Street of the Knights, the Cathedral of the Latins and the Basilica Mercatorum, a mercantile court where commercial disputes were settled. — JOHN LEONARD

Nikos Zervos and his team present signature dishes from Mediterranean cuisine influenced by our traditional Rhodian cuisine The restaurant promises a journey of culinary discovery as Chef Zervos taps into international culinary trends to compose creative dishes, using his own selection of the best local produce and products. The elegant indoor and outdoor environment, with unique views across the bay, together with both the discreet, sophisticated live music and the outstanding table service, creates a truly memorable dining experience.

Open: Dinner Mon - Sun 19:30-00:00 FOR RESERVATIONS/PRIVATE DINING ARRANGEMENTS Contact our Banqueting Manager Ixia: Herakleidon Ave. (Trianton) T (+30) 22410.972.22 F (+30) 22410.253.50 E info@rodos-palace.gr www.rodos-palace.gr www.facebook.com/12nissia/

The acropolis of Lindos and, below it, the sheltered beach of St Paul’s Bay.

FOCUS LINDOS, THE ETERNAL STAR The greatest of Rhodes’ Dorian-founded cities, Lindos is a natural phenomenon and major archaeological site that simply knocks your eyes out – its high, steep-sided acropolis flanked by twin natural ports and crowned with a Hellenistic Greek fortress, successively strengthened by the Romans, Byzantines and the Knights of St. John (early 14th c.). Inside the imposing enceinte with its multiple towers, the hill’s summit originally held a sanctuary of Athena Lindia, adorned with a monumental Doric propylon (entrance-way), 124

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amphiprostyle (double-ended) Archaic/Hellenistic temple and stoa (arcade), all now partly reconstructed. Around the citadel’s cliffs and slopes are found elaborate family tombs, a theater with twenty-six tiers of preserved seats and a colonnaded shrine of Dionysus. Also not to be missed are the circular “Tomb of Cleobulus,” apocryphally attributed to Lindos’ great 6th c. BC tyrant/philosopher, and the rock-cut relief of a trireme (ca. 180 BC) that recalls the Lindians’ former maritime power. — JOHN LEONARD

the ultimate relaxation hotel in Lindos

Lindos | Rhodes | Greece | www.lindos-sun.com

RHODES OUR PICKS

EXPLORE LIKE A FILM SET: Take a nice long stroll around the Old Town, the medieval district of Rhodes Town, day or night. Enter through one of its 11 gateways and get lost in the narrow alleys of this unique, 420,000-sq.m. city, built by the Knights of Saint John in the 12th century. Restored by the Italians in the early 20th century, it’s still home to some 2,000 residents who just happen to be living in a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A visit here is amazing; it’s an experience that should not be missed. Stroll along the beautiful Street of the Knights in the knights’ residential quarter of Kollakio, which, in the lamplight of the evening, looks like something from a film set. The once working-class district of Bourgos – home to the Greeks living under the Knights and later to the Turks and Jews under the Ottomans – is much livelier: tourist restaurants, cafés and shops stand side by side with mosques, steam baths and Byzantine churches. TRACES OF HISTORY: If you come in through Eleftherias (Freedom) Gate and head to Symis Square, you’ll catch glimpses of a lot of the Old Town’s history, including the ruins of the ancient Temple of Aphrodite and part of a Hellenistic fortification wall; the 11th-c. Panaghia tou Kastrou Church (Tue-Sun 08:00-17:00), with its Gothic additions and coats of arms; the Armory of the Knights, which houses a lovely collection of folk art (Tue-Sun 08:00-17:00); and the Municipal Gallery (Mon-Fri 08:00-15:00), with sculptures and engravings by distinguished Greek artists. The stately home of Hassan Bey, one of the island’s Turkish governors, is a bit further on from here, as is the early 16th-c. Inn of Auvergne, which is now a coffee shop.

01. Sokratous Street in the Old Town with the Suleymaniye Mosque in the background. | 02. A detail of the impressive Italian-built administration headquarters in Mandraki. | 03. Symi Square holds traces of every historical period. © PERIKLES MERAKOS

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ITALIAN GLORY: Mandraki is the city’s new port; it reflects the Italians’ efforts to interject themselves in Rhodes’ history and to impose their dominance, as they did throughout the Dodecanese. Many of the historic buildings here were constructed at the peak of the Italian occupation, between 1925 and 1939, by Italian architects, in a variety of styles. Key among these – and all located along the coastal stretch – are the Town Hall, the Regional Authority, the National Theater and Evangelismos Church, which was built as a Catholic church in 1926 but which today boasts icons and wall paintings by the Greek master Fotis Kontoglou (1895-1965). Walk to the end of the jetty for the now-standard tourist photos of the 15th-c. Fortress of Aghios Nikolaos and the two bronze deer, symbols of the island, at the port entrance. A great spot from which to watch the sunset is Monte Smith Hill in the new town; here you can also see the ruins of the Hellenistic acropolis and, at its feet, the stadium and the odeon that were restored by the Italians. GHOST VILLAGE: A visit to Eleousa, one of the four now-deserted villages established by the Italians as part of a strategic approach to controlling the rural economy, can be an unsettling experience. Originally built in 1935 at the foot of Mt Profitis Ilias (36km from Rhodes Town) to accommodate northern Italian foresters who looked after the woodlands in the area, its notable buildings include the old market house and the Fascist Party headquarters, which was converted into a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients in 1947. (A few meters further ahead, you’ll also come across a huge tank that gathers water from the Kokkinisti spring. This is one of the few habitats of the gizani, a small freshwater fish endemic to Rhodes.)

01. Rhodes is famous for its wild nightlife, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy a quiet night out for dinner and drinks.

02. The Marco Polo Restaurant, in the Old Town, is recommended for its sophisticated, creative cuisine and its lovely garden.

03. Kallithea Springs are not used for therapies anymore, but retain their cosmopolitan resort character.

EXPERIENCE VIEWPOINT: If you’re not bothered by the heat (the midday summer temperature on Rhodes often hits the 40°C mark), take a walk along the top of the walls © CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU, MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/EPHORATE OF DODECANESE

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of the Old Town to enjoy the view. The one-way journey, starting at the Palace of the Grand Master, is only permitted from 12:00 to 15:00. It takes 30-40 minutes to reach the gate known as the Red Door in the south end of the Old Town. SIMPLY CHARMING: Ignore the touts trying to lure you into shops and restaurants surrounding Hippocrates Square and the Square of the Jewish Martyrs and instead make a beeline for Panaghia Bourgou, a beautiful, half-collapsed late Gothic monument from the 14th century. Walk around the quiet narrow streets in this area, under arches and past old houses with enclosed wooden balconies known as sachnisia. The district is full of Byzantine churches, mosques, springs and boutique hotels – it’s a mosaic of human activity. You’ll most likely end up at Arionos Square (the 16th-c. hammam here is slated to reopen soon), where you can sit down for a bite or a drink under the trees. THE LINDOS EXPERIENCE: Lindos is another great reason to visit Rhodes. The traditional town (55km from Rhodes Town) resembles a charming Cycladic village, while its three beaches and its acropolis-castle are just extra bonuses. Wander around its maze of alleys and look for the white houses known as kamarika – perfect examples of bioclimatic architecture, with skylights and thick stucco-covered walls to stop the heat seeping in – and for the 17th-c. captain’s houses with their entrances made of tuff blocks and their pebble-mosaic floors. Take the village’s main street and, after a relatively steep 15-minute uphill walk, you’ll come to the ancient city’s acropolis. The best time to visit is in the afternoon. Wrap up your visit with dinner at Mavrikos (Tel. (+30) 22440.312.32) or the restaurant at the Melenos Lindos Hotel (Tel. (+30) 22440.322.22), followed by cocktails at the bar on Aghios Pavlos Beach in St Paul’s Bay. SUNSET CASTLES: A walk in the golden light of the setting sun is amazing at either Monolithos Castle or Kritinia D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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A destination in its own right, Lindos offers an ancient city, amazing beaches, imposing mansions and a Cycladic feel.

Castle, both part of the defensive fortifications constructed during the Middle Ages. The latter hosts various cultural events over the summer, including something special during the August full moon, so you might want to hang around for the show. If you get hungry, the nearby café-taverna Mylos is a local favorite. MOUNTAIN HAVEN: Cool temperatures, great views and a thick pine forest − in other words, everything one can expect from a mountain resort awaits you on Rhodes as well. Built on the slopes of Mt Profitis Ilias in the early 1930s and styled after the chalets of northern Italy, the two mountain lodges Elafos and Elafina (meaning “buck” and “doe,” respectively) were named in honor of the fallow deer that live in this forest. Their initial purpose was to host officials who visited the island. Elafos has been restored and 130

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now operates as a hotel and café; it’s quite popular with locals, especially in the winter. You can get here by car, or on foot following a 9km mountain route from Eleousa. If you choose to walk, you’ll see the 15th-c. four-apse Chapel of Aghios Nikolaos Fountouklis along the way. SPRINGS OF LIFE: Another great place to hide from the summer heat at midday is Epta Piges (“Seven Springs”), 26km from Rhodes Town. In this ravine crowded with plane trees, water gushes from seven different sources. The (literally) coolest thing you can do here is to take off your shoes and wade through the dark 150m-long tunnel that channels the water into a small artificial lake. LITTLE WINGS: The 1km-walk through the verdant Valley of the Butterflies makes for an enchanting experience. During the summer, this is the resting place of the Panaxia quadripunctaria, a member of the Jersey Tiger moth family that looks very much like a butterfly. They gather in great numbers here along the banks of the Pelekanos River, 25km from

Rhodes Town. You’ll see them on rocks, tree trunks, leaves and branches rather than in the air: the moths are nocturnal and sleep during the day, conserving their energy. Observe them in silence, and stick to the designated paths so as to not disturb them. There are also cafés and souvenir shops. Open daily 8:30-17:30. LAKE ACTIVITIES: Rhodes even has a lake, created in the late 1980s by the construction of a dam outside the village of Apolakkia in order to meet the irrigation needs of the area. It’s a good place to look for the elusive fallow deer of Rhodes. This year, a company has begun offering outdoor activities in the area, including Flying Fox rides, kayaking and archery; it leads other activities elsewhere on the island as well. (Rhodescape, Tel. (+30) 693.937.2584) THE FILERIMOS ASCENT: The incessant mating calls of male peacocks that roam free on this hill, located 15km south-west from Rhodes Town, will accompany your ascent to the 14th-c. Monastery of Kyra tou Filerimou (Our Lady of Filerimos).

ADVERTORIAL

In search of a building with the intention of creating a hotel in the Old Town of Rhodes, we came across a house which we instantly knew was what we wanted. The homey feeling when we walked into it, together with its touching history, made our decision easy. Where the house currently stands there was once a stately knight’s residence with a small church dedicated to Saint John. When the Turks occupied Rhodes in 1522, the house became home to Turkish, Jewish and Greek families, all living together. Their different origins and religions didn’t stop them from caring for each other and raising their children together in the shade of the mulberry tree. The rooms of our hotel bear the names of some of these residents: Gülbin, Katina, Deniz, Irini, Orhan, Michalis. Our hotel is the first building one sees when entering the

•

Old Town from the Gate of St. John. The pitched battles fought here in days long gone made locals change the name of the gate to “Kókkini Porta” (Greek for “Red Door”). Throughout the restoration, the building’s character and peculiarities were respected: the creaks from the wooden floor boards, the smell of the lime plaster, the roughness of its stones, the 300-year-old mulberry tree. At the same time, we added our own welcoming touches: furniture, lighting, art objects and soft carpets give every space a warm, familiar atmosphere. Today, luxury has been tempered with simplicity and modern design elements appear alongside old collectable items. We have made a small hotel for just a few select guests who enjoy our personal attention and care, and who value the notion that this house has been offering serenity and warmth to its residents, permanent or temporary, for centuries.

KOKKINI PORTA Old Town, Rhodes 85131, Greece • Tel. (+30) 2241.075.114 Fax (+30) 2241.075.111 • Email: welcome@kokkiniporta.com • www.kokkiniporta.com

RHODES OUR PICKS

01. Prasonisi is a world-renowned spot for kite-surfing. | 02. The offshore diving board at Elli Beach. | 03. On Anthony Quinn Beach, even a free spot on a rock can be hard to find.

Around this restored Gothic structure, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, you’ll see the ruins of an ancient temple of Athena and the remains of an early Christian church. At the base of the hill, take the Path of Golgotha, a flagstone footpath with 14 sculpted Stations of the Cross, which will lead you to a massive cross and an unobstructed view over much of the island and, in the distance, the Turkish coast. The monastery is open daily from 8:00-20:00. OLD-WORLD RETREAT: Designed by the architect Pietro Lombardi and built by the Italians in 1929, the luxurious facilities of Kallithea Springs, located 9km from Rhodes Town, have been attracting crowds of visitors ever since. Now restored to their former glory, the grounds make for an idyllic setting, with two rotundas (the bigger one boasting a 14m dome), flower-covered pergolas, a patio and even a 132

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fountain with a figure of Eros. Kallithea Springs often hosts art exhibitions and other events. You can enjoy a swim at its beach and then round off the evening with a drink or a light meal at the pretty café on the waterfront. Open 08:00-20:00 (www.kallitheasprings.gr). ART STOPS: If you’re interested in local arts and crafts, it’s worth stopping by the Artistic Village, a multi-purpose space run by a family of artists who create ceramics, paintings, and decorative objects made out of iron, glass, wood and other materials, as well as jewelry items. You can watch the artists at work and shop as well (Afantou, 23rd km, Rhodes-Lindos Road, www.artisticvillage.gr). Equally interesting and less commercial is the Art Park outside the village of Archipoli (33k from Rhodes Town), where owner Damon Papakiriakou, a painter, sculptor and musician, invites artists from

Greece and other parts of the world to draw inspiration from the natural environment and create new work here. You might see some of these guests as you visit the park’s permanent sculpture and painting collection or browse through the temporary exhibits. (Tel. (+30) 6972.815.547) HOUSE OF PLATES: cobbled alleys and brightly colored houses featuring architecture elements such as pyliones (large limestone doorframes), flower-filled patios and pebbled floors greet those who visit the village of Koskinou, just 7km from Rhodes Town. At the Koskinou Traditional House, built in 1902, you can admire an impressive piatelotichos – a large wall covered with typical decorative plates from the island (Open daily 08:00-13:00). SOUTHERN BELLES: There are two perfectly good reasons to travel the 70km from Rhodes Town to Lachania on the southeastern part of the island. One is the long beach nearby, largely free of sun loungers and umbrellas, where you

RHODES OUR PICKS

The house at Koskinou features an impressive collection of traditional plates.

can enjoy the sea in relative solitude (there’s a more developed part with a laid-back beach bar as well). The other is the picturesque village itself, which has been brought back to life, mostly by non-Greeks who took on the task of restoring its empty houses. The alleys are well kept, the main square features an Ottoman fountain from 1703, and the Platanos Taverna, next to an enormous plane tree as well as the 19th-c. Aghios Georgios Church, is famous for its perfect version of the simplest of dishes: eggs with fries. A few kilometers further south, after Plimmiri Beach, you can make a left turn to the secluded beaches of Aghios Georgios and Mavros Kavos, which boast fine sand, shallow waters and shade provided by a row of cedars. You will, however, need an off-road vehicle and plenty of water. GONE WITH THE WIND: Located at Rhodes’ southernmost end, 100km from Rhodes Town, Prasonisi is one of the 134

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most famous windsurfing and kite-surfing beaches in Europe. An islet during the high tides of winter, during the summer it is connected to the mainland by a sandbar that creates two distinct bays with different weather conditions. There are several surfing schools on the beach. BEACH GALORE: With a 253km coastline, Rhodes offers plenty of variety. Some people prefer rocky coves where they can dive off boulders or outcroppings, while others opt for the long stretches of sand, with endless rows of colorful umbrellas and sun loungers. One of the island’s most popular beaches is the picturesque Anthony Quinn, on the east coast, named for the star of the 1961 war film “The Guns of Navarone” which was shot in Rhodes. It’s not very large and it gets crowded, so be sure to get here early. If you have children, Agathi Beach on the east coast is perfect; it has warm, shallow waters, fine soft sand, snack bars and a pretty view of Faraklo Castle. A similar setting, though minus the castle, can be found at Tsambika Beach. For more peace and quiet head to either Fourni Beach, with coarse sand and pebbles,

and a few small caves begging to be explored, or to Kritikos Beach, both on the southwest coast. MINI THRILL: Throw yourself off the “Trampoline,” the name that the locals have given to a cement diving platform standing in the middle of the water off the town’s main beach. One of several iconic structures on the island, it was built by the Italians in the 1930s and restored in 2007.

TASTE WINE: Rhodes was one of the first Greek islands to engage in the cultivation of grapes and has a long history in winemaking. Its main native grape varieties are Mandilaria (known here as Amorgiano) and Athiri. The island’s wine industry is intrinsically linked to CAIR, a company established in 1928 by Italian investors and owned by the Dodecanese Association of Agricultural Cooperatives since 1957. This winery kept grape cultivation alive through WWII and later became wildly popular as a sparkling wine producer. For several years now, they’ve

RHODES OUR PICKS

The famed Valley of the Butterflies is an enchanting place.

been focusing on quality still wines as well, such as the Rodos 2400, launched in 1992 to celebrate 2,400 years since the founding of Rhodes Town. Rhodes’ other big producer is Emery, founded in 1923 and now run by the third generation of the Triantafillou family. Its winery – one of the biggest in Greece – is located in the village of Embonas. There are, in addition, a few small artisanal wineries in Rhodes, such as Alexandris, Kounakis, Tatakis and Mercouri. Make sure to try the island’s two Protected Designation of Origin wines: PDO Rhodes and PDO Muscat of Rhodes. SWEET TREATS: The Beekeeping Company of the Dodecanese in Pastida (15km from Rhodes Town) is a pretty great place, not just for honey, sweets like melekounia (sesame-honey snaps) and other related products, but also for its lovely Bee Museum (Mon-Sat 08:30-17:00, Sun 09:0013:00, beemuseum.gr) showcasing the island’s lengthy tradition in beekeeping. Buy fresh rustic bread, melekounia, mod136

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The small dam and the lake at the Seven Springs.

ern woven textiles and fruit preserves from Apolloniatises, the Women’s Cooperative of the village of Apollonas, which also has a store in Rhodes Town (68 Aghiou Pavlou). Stani (28 Aghias Anastasias), also in Rhodes Town, has amazing ice cream, among other treats. SEASIDE TABLES: Right at the far end of Stegna Beach on the eastern coast, there’s a taverna called Perigiali, with tables set in the shade of mulberry and fig trees, where you can enjoy rosetia, a cheap snapper-type fish pan-fried and served with a thick garlic sauce. For a hearty meal after your swim, head east to Afantou. One of the best tavernas for fresh fish and seafood here is Avantis, famed for its lobster spaghetti. At the village of Kiotari, Petalas Restaurant puts the focus on its ingredients and presents a creative take on traditional classics like squid ink risotto, octopus with green beans and other such delights. HIGHLAND TREATS: The mountain vil-

lage of Apollonas (53km from town) is home to the excellent taverna Paranga, one of just a handful of places on Rhodes where you can still find well-executed traditional dishes. Local cheeses and fresh bread are just a prelude to beautifully executed rustic dishes like goat stifado (an onion-heavy stew) and kapama (stuffed young goat or lamb), all cooked in the wood-fired oven and served in clay dishes. The village of Embonas (55km from town), is where the locals go for grilled and spit-roasted meats, favoring the taverna Adelfia Baki. IN-TOWN DINING: Good food that includes both meat and fish can be found in the Old Town of Rhodes in the lovely courtyards of Dinoris (14 Mouseio Square) and the Marco Polo Mansion Hotel (40-42 Aghiou Fanouriou). In the new town, get a souvlaki to go from Kellides (96 28th Oktovriou). Every ingredient – from the pita bread to the pork and the tzatziki flecked with fresh parsley – is delicious. — OLGA CHARAMI

ADVERTORIAL

At one of Rhodes’ most central locations, you will find exceptionally high-quality clothes and accessories from worldrenowned Greek and international designers. Visit our attractive and warm space to browse for clothing, shoes and unique items for the home. Ask our highly-trained staff about our tax-free service. A FEW OF OUR DESIGNERS: Stelios Koudounaris Madame Shoushou Bitter Coco The Artians by Konstantina Annie P Collectiva Noir Glamazons Kooreloo

93 Amerikis Street, 85100 Rhodes, Greece • Tel. (+30) 22410.320.12 • E-mail: info@storyb.gr • www.storyb.gr

HALKI

Â© NICHOLAS MASTORAS

Even in the port of Halki the water is wonderful for swimming.

#Tranquility #SmallIsBeautiful #TimeStandsStill #Colorful

AREA

POPULATION

DISTANCE

HIGHEST PEAK

SQ.KM.

2011 CENSUS

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302

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The picturesque village of Emporios.

HALKI INSIDER

“ON MY ISLAND, PEOPLE DON’T RUSH” — BY VANGELIS ILIADES*

f you’re one of the 250 permanent residents of Halki, there’s a sense that you live on two different islands: the one with the difficult winter months, frequently cut off due to bad weather, eventually gives way to a paradise, where the sea is inviting until November. The months of July and August are those that the young people enjoy the most, as do the groups of friends who visit the island for summer fun and for the traditional panigyria, the island’s festivities. The resident population doubles – many of those living on the mainland or abroad but with houses on the island return to their summer homes – and the tourist numbers spike during these months as well. Because of this, it’s at other times, in May and June and long into autumn, too, when Halki really shows off its best features; the beautiful countryside and the crystalline waters await, inviting you on hikes and boat rides and to impromptu, outdoor parties. The only area inhabited today is Emporios; its grand, two-story homes, with balconies and courtyards sporting pebble

mosaics, and with foundations that are literally lapped by the waves, create a sense of island grandeur. You feel you’re living in another era, one far removed from the bustle of the cities, without cars, without crowds of people rushing around. What’s more, since you can even swim right in the port, you don’t really need to go anywhere else. Apart from three beaches easily accessible on foot from Emporios – Pontamos, Ftenagia and Kania – there are a few others that can only be reached by sea or via long and difficult hikes. The landscape, however, rewards the extra effort it takes to reach these spots. For meals, choose your taverna according to the angle from which you would like to admire the island. Try local pasta, goat, fakorizo (lentils and rice) and dolmades (stuffed vine leaves). For something to take back, buy local thyme honey, traditional biscuits or handmade sweets. If someone asked me to give him a tour, I’d take him to Paleo Horio, inhabited from antiquity to the mid-20th century

but today full of ruins, to see the wellmaintained and attractive old churches with their impressive murals. I’d show him the medieval Castle of the Knights of St John, from where you can enjoy a unique view of Karpathos, Rhodes, Alimia and the cluster of islets to the east. I’d also take him to the southern side of Halki, to the sea cave there with its two entrances and wonderful waters. Many visitors who come over from Rhodes on what is supposed to be a two-day excursion immediately start looking for accommodations for the rest of their vacation. The island enchants you. I know, because my family comes from here, although I was born and raised in Athens. Eight years ago, I moved to Halki permanently. It was a bold decision and I faced challenges, but I succeeded and feel fortunate.

* Vangelis Iliades is a biologist and the principal of the local school. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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OUR PICKS PICTURE-PERFECT: Lining the port of Emporios, the brightly colored 19th-c. houses (many lovingly restored) with their ceramic-tiled roofs and wooden windows work their magic on you before you even step off the boat. Some of these houses are right on the water, and residents dive from their front patios right into the port’s crystal-clear waters. Regardless of when you arrive at Halki, the clock on the tower will read twenty after four. The clock, too, dates back to the island’s heyday and has been restored, but because of its jarring chimes, it’s been turned off. SACRED SPOTS: The Church of Aghios Nikolaos in Emporios was built in 1861 and has a bell tower supported by an arch partially built using ancient columns. If you’re heading southwest, the 19th-c. Monastery of Ai-Yiannis Alarga has a pretty café in a garden with an impressive cypress tree, where the monks serve souma, a traditional spirit, and local cheese with honey. MYTHICAL SUNSET: According to the story, Zeus and Hecate watched the sun set behind Paleo Horio while sitting on a 140

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Kania Beach

On the balcony of an old mansion.

pair of thrones hewn into the rock on the spot where the castle now stands. You can catch the same view by walking down the cobbled path from the village (it takes about an hour). The castle was built in the 15th-16th century by the Knights of Saint John on the ruins of the Hellenistic-era acropolis. There’s a gate with the coat of arms of the Grand Master of Rhodes, Pierre d’Aubusson. WHERE TO SWIM: Only a handful of cars circulate on the streets of Emporios during the day and there’s a complete ban from 18:00 onwards in the village center, but you can get around the island by bus, boat or on foot. It’s an 8-minute walk west to the white-sand beach of Pontamos and 50 minutes to Areta, which consists of large white pebbles. Ftenagia, another pebble beach, is 10 minutes due south, and Kania, with a blend of coarse sand and fine pebbles, is 40 minutes due north. You can get to Tracheia in the south by boat; there are two quiet pebble beaches that face each other on the narrow neck of a small peninsula. ISLET OF GHOSTS: Explore the 7.4 sq. km islet of Alimia, where relics range

from a Hellenistic-era shipyard and Roman graves to the ruins of barracks built during the Italian occupation and the remains of a traditional village abandoned in 1940. There’s a medieval castle at the highest point (269m) which affords a great view of Halki and southern Rhodes. EARLY BIRDS: Theodosia Patisserie opens at 06:00, with delicious baklava and oven-hot pougi (small cream pies) as well as 40 flavors of handmade ice-cream. TOWN EATERIES: All of Halki’s tavernas serve fresh fish. At Paradosiako Piato tis Lefkosias, the cook/owner has spent 50 years in the kitchen stuffing vine leaves and kneading dough for traditional makarounes pasta. At Almyra, you’ll find both meat and fish dishes, as well as a list of 17 Greek wines. ON THE BEACH: The highlights at the small taverna in Kania are the tuna, the swordfish and the shellfish fresh from the family’s boat, while Ftenagia’s taverna serves dishes such as local salted bonito, herring and stuffed eggplant. Nick’s taverna at Pontamos gives you an ice bucket to keep your beers cold on the beach. — ALEXANDRA TZAVELLA

ADVERTORIAL

Halki island, it’s a dream!

Make it real at Aretanassa Hotel - Halki

Halki Island, Dodecanese, 85110 Greece • Tel. (+30) 22460.709.27 • Fax: (+30) 22460.709.28 • Email: info@aretanassa.gr • www.aretanassa-hotel.gr

SYMI

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Â© SHUTTERSTOCK

# #CandyColored #PicturePerfect #YachtSpotting #TinyGem #FamousHarbor #Romantic #SayIDo #BloodRedSky #SailAround #TrademarkShrimp

AREA

57 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

2,690

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

255

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

550m

VIGLA

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SYMI INSIDER

“THE STAGE FOR MY SUMMER” — BY TZORTZIS MILIAS*

rriving in Symi leaves you speechless. As the ship approaches the harbor, all you can make out are rocks and thorny bushes, and then, just as you begin to wonder where the port is, it appears in front of you. Lofty two-story neoclassical homes, with tall windows and doors, rise amphitheatrically from the slopes ringing the waterfront, creating charming color combinations: ochre houses abut brown ones, and they all sport shutters in shades of blue, green or red. Locals built these homes with money they earned from sponge-diving or in the shipyards; they laid the stone steps and they paved their courtyards. They took care of their island and, at the prettiest spots – those with the best views – they built churches. In the early 20th century, the economic crisis forced many islanders to emigrate. Some, however, remained, preserving everything that had been built. One of them was my uncle, Kostas Farmakidis. A dentist by profession, he was at the same time a passionate amateur archaeologist who played an active part in ensuring the village did not lose its character. Symi has remained a unique architectural gem, and Gialos, the town around the port, is beautifully photogenic. These buildings now house restaurants, shops, bars and guesthouses; many are notable for the history they hold within their walls as well as for the quality of goods and services they offer. Pachos is a traditional kafeneio, while the Manos and Pantelis restaurants have built reputations for serving good fish. You can find authentic homestyle food at Tolis’ taverna in Pedi, while for gourmet flavors and a unique environment, Petalo is recommended. To get a view over the entire island, an attractive route that involves a 10-minute drive and a 20-minute walk along a well-marked path will take you to the Stavros tou Polemou Monastery on Symi’s highest point, with vistas over the Aegean and the western part of the island. I wasn’t born on Symi, but I’ve spent every summer of my life there, in one of those pretty neoclassical homes; it belonged to my grandmother’s family. With our wooden boat, the “Argos,” we would go to then-deserted beaches to swim and fish. Now you can get to these places via boats that make regular trips in the summer months. If I had to choose one of those spots to recommend, I’d pick AiGiorgis Dysalonas, a fairy-tale beach without any facilities, ringed with cliffs that make reaching it on foot impossible, unless you’re an experienced climber. The place is simply magical, with a snow-white church at the base of the cliff towering over the beach. Some 200m up, a Greek flag painted onto the rock face salutes the sea, the sky and the nearby shores of Turkey.

* Tzortzis Milias’ family is from Symi; he is a mountain guide and the author of the Greek novel “Odysseus’ Voyage to Symi.” © GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

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01. You van reach Nanu Beach by boat and enjoy its green waters and dramatic rocky landscape. 02. Yachts and fishing boats share the dock at Gialos, the cosmopolitan harbor of Symi. 03. An inside look at one of Symi’s neoclassical houses.

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01 01. Symi’s small shrimp are its signature dish. | 02. The island’s boatyard is a pleasant stroll away from the harbor. | 03. Petalo Restaurant, a new star on the Symi culinary scene. | 04. The entrance to the Panormitis Monastery.

EXPLORE EVERY STEP TELLS A STORY: Just before sunset, take a stroll along the Kali Strata, the 500 stone steps that once served as the island’s main commercial thoroughfare and the only link between the neighborhoods of Horio, high up on the hill, and Gialos, Symi’s port. The scenic path offers a lovely view of the port below and is lined with halata, as the locals refer to the neoclassical houses, which were largely destroyed in World War II. Those that survive testify to Symi’s late 19-c. economic boom, fueled by shipping, shipbuilding and sponge-diving.

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V VISUALHELLAS.GR

THE EYE OF THE OX: Looking up at the neoclassical buildings of Gialos, you’ll notice a circular opening in the middle of the pediment of the houses. It is known as “the eye of the ox.” Originally, it functioned as a type of open skylight and a structural element that allowed the air pressure above and below the roof to equalize. In more modern constructions, it has a purely decorative function, while on a symbolic level it is thought to ward off the evil eye.

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Kali Strata connects Gialos with Horio; it’s a pleasant walk.

BEACON OF FAITH: Dozens of legends and stories surround the Monastery of Panormitis, an important site in Greek Orthodoxy, located 20km from Gialos in the island’s south. It was built in the 15th century; since then, believers from around Greece have been throwing bottles into the sea that contain written wishes, prayers and even money in the hopes they would reach this monastery! A large number of such offerings are on display inside the church, along with some lovely pieces of folk art, murals and icons. If you’re lucky, the monastery’s keepers may treat you to some of their delicious fig liqueur. Before you head back, take a dip near the small harbor.

EXPERIENCE BEST SWIMS: Wake up early to catch the first excursion boat leaving Gialos for Ai-Giorgis Dysalonas, a beach on Symi’s eastern shore. The island’s most impres148

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Aghios Georgios Dysalonas is the most impressive beach of the island.

sive beach, it can get very crowded at peak season, especially around midday. Surrounded by sheer cliffs that make access by land impossible, this natural bay has gorgeous waters, small pebbles and a little church that gave it its name. Make sure to bring water, snacks and a beach umbrella, as there are no facilities here and the rocks don’t provide shade until late in the afternoon. At the island’s westernmost point is Aghios Emilianos, another lovely beach accessible only by excursion boat or water taxi from Gialos. A narrow strip of land connects the beach to an islet with the small church after which this area was named. The waters here are shallow and crystalline. There are no facilities here, either, so come prepared.

TASTE LOCAL FAVORITES: With a view of the port and Gialos bay, Elpida’s at the dry

dock is a traditional kafeneio that serves properly prepared Greek coffee, ouzo and tsipouro with meze, and a selection of larger dishes. At Pantelis’ restaurant, menu highlights include the lamb with cracked wheat, the pasta with two types of lobster, and the grilled octopus with truffle oil. Petalo, which opened in 2017, boasts a menu designed by chef Gikas Xenakis, featuring a range of high-end dishes, from lobster pasta to oven-roasted goat with chickpea puree, as well as risotto inspired by classic stuffed tomatoes. WINE LOVERS REJOICE: It is a rare treat to find a liquor store on the Greek islands that has such a comprehensive range of Greek wines. Nektarios Fotaras has made some excellent selections, and you can also find a wide range of cold meats and cheeses at his store, Georgina’s Market. — LINA KAPETANIOU

e mail nireus@rho.forthnet.gr • Address: Symi 856 00 • Phone: +30 2246 072400-2

The courtyard of Iapetos Village is an oasis in the heart of Symi. It consists of traditional houses overlooking an exotic garden and stunning outdoor pool which is unique on the island. At the bar, you can enjoy drinks and snacks, relax in the serenity of the garden and sip your drink in the romantic atmosphere. You can also take a swim in the pool, or savor the Mediterranean cuisine in a specially-designed area or in your own private courtyard. You are spoiled for choice in terms of room selection, since in our complex offers family maisonettes, double rooms, standard studios and studio suites. For our most demanding clients, we recommend our traditional Iapetos suite and master suites. Enjoy your stay!

Gialos Symi, Dodecanese, 85600, Greece • Email: info@iapetos-village.gr • Tel. (+30) 22460.727.77

TILOS

Fun in the sun at the Aghios Antonios pier.

#NaturalBeauty #CleanEnergy #Peace&Quiet #BirdKingdom #Alternative #UnusualBar

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Livadia, Tilos’ port.

TILOS INSIDER

“LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT” — BY STATHIS KONTOS* / PHOTOS: NIKOLAS LEVENTAKIS

had no link to Tilos. I arrived one Sunday in the depths of winter after a 17-hour ferry voyage and fell in love with it immediately. The very next day, I began looking for a house so I could stay permanently. Living here, I cycle and walk a lot. We all walk a lot. The island has an area of only 61 square kilometers – you can walk from one end to the other in about three hours, and there’s 54km of marked routes. My favorite walk begins in Livadia, the port. From here, you head northwards and cross the mountain. On the way, you’ll smell oregano and thyme, and you might even see a Bonelli’s eagle soaring overhead. The entire island is part of the Natura 2000 network of protected sites; it’s a permanent home to many wild birds, and numerous other migratory species stop here on their journeys. In an hour and a half, you’ll reach Lethra, a serene beach with small white pebbles and turquoise waters. Another beach that I would recommend is Plaka: it’s sandy, with palm trees and peacocks that come right up to you. In fact, if you’re not careful, they’ll steal the crackers out of your bag. When the sea is calm, you can enter the secret cave behind Livadia, either in a

canoe or an inflatable boat. You’ll find it by asking – or even better, by exploring. The best place to see the sunset is from the balcony of the 16th-c. Monastery of Aghios Panteleimonas, which offers a view of the entire southern part of the island, which is uninhabited. In the distance, you can see Kos and Nisyros. Over the past two years, tourist traffic has increased. On my walks, I encounter a lot of people from Scandinavia, Italy and Great Britain. Because Tilos is a remote island, most foreign visitors stay for about two weeks. It’s a relaxed place, making it one of the best vacation destinations for families. In the winter, there are only about 500 residents. The good thing about small islands is that they make you more social. The ultimate meeting point after 23:00 is Mikro Chorio, the abandoned medieval settlement that has been brought back to life, thanks to a group of friends who have set up a bar there. That is, they’ve placed tables among the ruins and serve cocktails and drinks until morning. It’s very romantic. People sit out under the stars and many stick around to see the sunrise. Tilos is known for its 4,000-year-old fossils of dwarf elephants; this was apparently

the last home for their kind in Europe. It’s worth visiting the Paleontological Museum in Megalo Chorio, where soon you’ll be able to see a 3D model, created by the University of Athens, of this remarkable animal. Tilos is special for yet another reason: by early 2019, the completion of the EU Sustainable Energy Award-winning project TILOS will make us the the first energy-independent island in the Mediterranean. Our needs will be covered by an 800 kW wind generator and photovoltaic panels with a capacity of 200 kW. All of the homes are being outfitted with smart meters, to allow homeowners to monitor their consumption and to control appliances through an app on their phones. In addition, the first electric-car charging station has been installed on the island, and we hope by the end of the year to have two public electric cars, which will pave the way for privately owned electric vehicles. What’s more, we’re looking forward to still more sustainability projects in the future.

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01. Hiking on Tilos is quite popular, especially in springtime and early autumn. 02. The castle above Megalo Chorio helped protect the island from marauding pirates.

EXPLORE LITTLE ELEPHANTS: The very last wild elephants in Europe lived right here, on tiny Tilos. They were a species of dwarf elephants that appeared on the island 50,000 years ago and disappeared approximately 4,000 years ago, according to Nikolaos Symeonidis, the professor of paleontology and geology who discovered the first fossilized bones in the Harkadio Cave in 1971. The elephants are thought to have swum to the island and, from the thousands of bones that have been unearthed, scientists believe the animals were between 1.2 and 1.4 meters tall. The cave isn’t accessible to tourists yet (excavations were only recently completed), but you can view some of the finds, including the bones of a baby elephant, at a small museum in the town hall of Megalo Chorio (open 9:00-13:00, with longer hours during peak season or by appointment.) A new, larger museum is under construction near the cave. VILLAGE STROLL: Megalo Chorio, with its traditional Aegean architecture, was 152

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built in the 19th century. Before then, people had lived inside the Castle constructed by the Knights of St. John at the top of the hill. Walk through the narrow alleyways and observe the houses, white cubes with shutters painted varying shades of blue, with splashes of color added by the abundant bougainvilleas and pots of geraniums – the unrivaled sense of simplicity that characterizes the Aegean, in all its splendor. Here you’ll find two tavernas, two cafés, and the beautiful church of Taxiarchis, which has graced the village center since 1827. THE CASTLE: A lovely uphill walk of about 30 minutes takes you to the Castle of the Knights, above Megalo Chorio, where you’ll also see the ruins of an ancient settlement. The best time is in the afternoon, when the path is shaded by the hillside. The view from the walls is dazzling. THE MONASTERY: Heading northwest across barren slopes, you’ll reach the 14th-c. Monastery of St. Panteleimon. It boasts fortifications, and beautiful pebble

mosaics in its interior courtyards. Keep an eye out for the decorative details and the wall paintings in the chapel. The monastery is open to visitors, but it’s better to call in advance (Tel. (+30) 22420.316.76).

EXPERIENCE DAY AND NIGHT: On Tilos everything is so close by… and the living is easy! In Livadia, you can take a swim at the beach by the port, where you’ll also find rooms to rent right next to the sea. Here, there are tavernas and a few bars, such as Ino, with rock music from the ‘80s and ‘90s, and good drinks, and Mikro Café, with tables in a lovely waterfront garden and on its small terrace. You can grab a coffee or some delicious food, including breakfast, under the shade of a large fig tree at Omonia, a traditional café-taverna. THE SMALL VILLAGE: Mikro Chorio, another inland settlement, was abandoned after World War II and the wave of mass emigration that followed. By 1955, it was completely deserted and has remained so up to the present day. It comes to life

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01. Two small tavernas serve delicious meze under the shade of the tamarisk trees at Aghios Antonios, which is also famous for its sunset views. | 02. The village of Mikro Chorio isn’t inhabited anymore but it does have a wonderful bar. | 03. Bones of dwarf elephants discovered in the Harkadio Cave are on display at the museum in Megalo Chorio.

again only in the evenings, thanks to the bar there. Its owners even illuminate the interiors of old, ruined houses, creating a unique atmosphere. The bar stays open until morning, giving patrons an incredible opportunity to enjoy the sunrise. The establishment has no name and is simply known as the Bar in Mikro Chorio. GREAT SWIMS: Tilos boasts many pristine beaches that can only be accessed on foot. Wear a hat and comfortable shoes, and bring water, too, as you explore swimming spots like Lethra, Limenari and Aghios Petros – all pebble beaches. Of the other beaches on the island, the best known are Eristos, which attracts campers, and Plaka to the north, with its exquisite blue water and smattering of palm trees. Behind the beach is a fenced park where peacocks roam. If you want to get close to the plumed birds, simply open the large wire gate and 154

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make your way among them – though they’re often also found wandering on the beach itself. HIKING AROUND: The network of footpaths on Tilos covers 54 kilometers and attracts hikers from all over the world. Not all paths are marked, but most are in good condition. Try the one that begins at the chapel of Ai-Yiannis, east of Livadia, and traces a ridge parallel to the sea toward Akrotiri Koutsoumbas. Keep in mind that Tilos is full of goats that wander across the slopes on the island, creating delightful scenes but also causing minor rockfalls. You’re in no real danger, but do take care!

TASTE LOCAL SPECIALTIES: Goat stuffed with rice and liver: that’s the traditional dish of Tilos, prepared on all feast days. It

may take as many as 24 hours to prepare, since it needs time to marinate and to slowly cook in a clay pot, preferably in a wood-fired oven. Your best bet to taste this exquisite dish is Kastro Taverna in Megalo Chorio, which offers sweeping views of Eristos Beach. You’ll also find other delicious regional dishes there, as well as grilled meats and salads made with vegetables from their own garden. At Kritikos Restaurant, on the waterfront in Livadia, you can savor fried Tilian cheese with honey and sesame seeds for even more flavor. You’ll also find a refreshing salad with zucchini and pear, and traditional dishes prepared with care. For fish in a seaside setting, try one of the charming tavernas beneath the tamarisk trees at Aghios Antonios, which also serve up beautiful sunset views. — VASSILIKI KERASTA

ASTYPALEA

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Astypalea’s Hora, with its castle and the old harbor of Pera Gialos, is arguably one of the most beautiful in the Aegean.

# #LikeAButterfly #HotIn2018 #Addictive #CycladicVibe #LoveThisTown #PebbleVsSand #Windmills #SuperFoods #FriendlyBars

AREA

97 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

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2011 CENSUS

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HIGHEST PEAK

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MT VARDIA © PERIKLES MERAKOS

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“SIMPLE, AUTHENTIC” — BY FRANCOIS L’HOTEL

’m French. I was born in Paris and one day I fell in love with Julia, a beautiful Greek “princess.” She introduced me to her island, Astypalea. What I remember from my first time here, about 15 years ago, was the scent when the door of the airplane opened. It was a wild, sweet scent that I’ll never forget. The arid landscape stretched as far as the eye could see. When I ask my nine-year-old daughter what she loves most about Astypalea, she answers, without a second thought: “Playing and swimming with my friends all day, and at night eating with my parents at the taverna.” I think there is no better answer. For me, Astypalea is beautiful landscapes devoid of large buildings, with secluded barren expanses, an incredible sea, and beaches which, although generally small and few in number for an island of its size, are enough, even for those who seek solitude. We live in Hora, right beneath the castle. We bought the house in the 1980s, like many visitors from abroad who fell in love with the island. People from France, Germany and Scandinavia have restored many buildings, staying faithful to the old architecture. A fair number live here all year round and we all know each other, like an extended family. As everything here is white, the light becomes even more intense, and the colorful sheets or towels hanging out to dry on balconies resemble Japanese prints. From our small rooftop, we have the good fortune to be able to watch the sunset every evening. Everything turns orange before nightfall. As for the rest of the island, I love Vatses for the scenery, for the beach

bar that Christos and Sotiris have made, and for the incredible stretch of sand. Kaminakia is, likewise, a very attractive beach and has trees that offer valuable shade to those early birds who manage to secure spots under them. Steno Beach is ideal for children; it has shallow waters, a sandy seabed and a food stand. A perfect day on Astypalea begins with breakfast in Hora, at Meltemi or at Karai with its amazing views, followed by a boat ride from Pera Gialos to the small islands opposite the castle – Koutsomitis and Kounoupa. The day ends with dinner at Akti Restaurant, with its enchanting view of the castle, or at Karlos, the undisputed king of katsikaki kokkinisto – goat in tomato sauce. Overall, the food on the island is very good. In Livadi, I like Astropelos, run by Maria and Michalis, and Krokodilos, which has tables right on the sand. Almyra in Maltezana, Barbarossa in Hora, and Galini in Vathy all have their own unique charm. There aren’t many bars, but all of them are special. A standout is Kastro, located beneath the castle walls, as is Artemis, with its view of the old harbor. The new Thea is also great, with a view of the castle and the sea, perfect for those nights when the full moon rises magically over the castle. Astypalea is one of the most unspoiled parts of Greece – this land must remain simple and authentic, and be protected from the excesses of tourism at all costs, like all the other islands should. Actually, I don’t like what I’m doing right now – promoting the island, that is – but I’m doing it for the locals. I implore you to respect it and to love it just the way it is. Just as we do.

* Francois L’Hotel is a fine art photographer and runs a studio-gallery in Votanikos, Athens. 158

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You’ll see every shade of blue in the waters around the islet of Koutsomitis, which you can reach by traditional caiques from Pera Gialos.

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EXPLORE A WALK IN HORA: What’s striking about this area is the blend of Dodecanesian and Cycladic architecture, a marriage of traditions evident in other aspects of Astypalea’s character as well. It’s a near replica of the settlement inside the castle that was inhabited until the 1940s, when the residents tore down the fortified town and used the materials to build a new one outside the castle walls. Houses tend to be tall and narrow, a bit like towers, with three or four stories, each accommodating a different family. Dodecanesian features such as pastel hues, large windows and a tendency for ornamentation are mixed in with Cycladic elements such as rectangular lines, the use of white and smaller structural openings. ENTER THE GATE: At the Venetian Castle, built by the Querini family in the 13th c., you’ll walk among the ruins of the old settlement, see the well-preserved churches of Aghios Georgios and of the Panaghia (from the 18th and 19th c., respectively) and take in amazing views of Hora on one side and the vast blue sea on the other. NECROPOLIS: An ancient burial site dedicated exclusively to infants is located here, and it is the only one of its kind ever found worldwide. Their remains were placed in clay pots; it’s estimated that there are around 3,000 of these. The site itself is closed, but you can find out more at the Archaeological Museum of Astypalea in Pera Gialos (Tue-Sun 08:00-20:00). THE FOLK MUSEUM: A lovely institution showcasing what a traditional home looked like (Tel (+30) 22430.612.67).

01. Megali Panaghia, in Hora, is five churches in one structure. 02. The architecture of Astypalea combines elements from the Cyclades and the Dodecanese.

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05. The pebble mosaic floor at Megali Panaghia.

03. The windmills in Hora are true landmarks. All eight of them have been restored.

SOMETHING TO READ? One of Hora’s trademark sights is its windmills – many have been restored, and the third one as you approach from the main square holds a lovely little surprise. There, Stella Papadopoulou, an English teacher, has created a lending library with books by Greek writers and poets translated into several languages (Tel (+30) 694.981.9261). 160

04. A local woman wearing the island’s traditional dress with its impressive head covering.

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The Cave of Negrou offers a beautiful view of the sea and of Vatses Beach, a 20-minute hike away.

EXPERIENCE PHOTO-OP: Wake up early and grab a good spot in Hora to watch the rising sun light up the sky, the sea and the sleeping town in an explosion of color. GREAT SWIMS: Don’t be daunted by the dirt road and the 40-minute hike: at the island’s most gorgeous beach, Ai-Yiannis, there’s a good chance you’ll enjoy the light blue waters and fine pebbles, in near-solitude. One of the top Astypalea experiences, despite the crowds, is a swim at Kaminakia on the southwestern coast. Apart from the clean waters and some lovely rock formations, it also has one of the best tavernas on the island, named after its incredible cook, Linda. Most of the ingredients she uses – meat, fish, cheese, 162

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vegetables, eggs, bread and wine – are are produced by her family in what is a great example of self-sufficiency. Also on the southwest coast, Vatses Beach, at the mouth of a gorge, has coarse sand and pebbles as well as clean, deep waters. It also has a certain special vibe, a nice beach bar and no cellphone signal whatsoever. Tzanaki, on the southeastern coast, is a great spot for a swim, especially if you are a nudist. It has lovely round pebbles, deep waters and a view of Hora, much like Livadi, which is further north, though without the latter’s crowds and businesses. Steno, the beach right in the middle of the island, is perfect for kids with its shallow waters and natural shade. It boasts a great food stand, too: Ilias Kalis and his family have a great setup here, serving delicious local goat and other meats, cheeses and pasta right on

the sand. Last but not least, the tiny Ble Limanaki beach, right beside Maltezana, is very pleasant if you get there early and secure a nice spot. It’s also sheltered from the summer winds. BOAT ACCESS ONLY: The uninhabited islets of Kounoupa and Koutsomitis can be reached by excursion boats out of Pera Gialos. Stretches of white sand, clean waters in every shade of blue and the fun of diving off the boat will make you feel like you’ve been shipwrecked in heaven. THE OTHER SIDE: A worthwhile excursion is to Vathy, on Exo Nisi, as the island’s northern part is known. The drive through the dramatic landscape leads to a sheltered cove. It‘s not great for swimming, but the Galini taverna is ample rea-

01. At the library, housed in one of the windmills in Hora, one can find books by Greek writers translated into various languages. You can donate books, too!

02. Vatses Beach has fantastic waters and trees for shade.

03. Kafeneio tou Moungou can be a lot of fun, if a coffee or meze in the company of locals is what you’re looking for.

son to visit: Stavroula cooks as if she’s in her home and invites her guests into the kitchen to fetch their plates. HIKING: You should explore the island on foot to really get in touch with its special energy. The trail network hasn’t been fully organized, so it’s best to seek tips and advice from Pardalo Katsiki, a trekking company run by Tasos Kontaratos (Tel. (+30) 698.120.0312). Ask how to reach the caves in Vathy and Vatses, which feature beautiful stalactite formations. FEELING ROMANTIC? Making the most of the August full moon is an absolute must in Astypalea, especially watching it pop up from behind the castle. To enjoy the moment in all its glory, secure a table at Archipelago Café, which also has very nice desserts.

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LOBSTER PASTA AT ASTAKOUKOS

TASTE LOCAL PRODUCTS: The island’s cheeses are produced by local shepherds from some 15,000-20,000 animals living in sheds out in the countryside or in closed units. Treat yourself to some hlori (a soft local cheese), anthotyro (dried hlori), tiraki (a hard cheese that’s perfect when fried in batter) and kopanisti (a spicy, creamy cheese). Tsakalos (Tel. (+30) 697.363.1870) in Maltezana is the island’s only modern dairy. You can also buy honey, marmalades, liqueurs, body and face creams made with honeycomb, and other local products from Keranthos in Hora. To stock up on koulouri bread, rusks and breadsticks made with local ingredients such as thyme, oregano, saffron, honey and even cheese, go to Iliana Bakery. THE HERBS: The whole island smells of thyme and sage, while saffron also grows on its craggy slopes. Every local housewife has her favorite spot for collecting this precious spice and keeps it secret,

POUGIA AT MELTEMI

even from her own family. They like to joke that they’ll only give it up on their deathbed. Every November, however, the local women get together in a mini-ritual to pluck the saffron threads. A GREAT START: Have a breakfast of Greek coffee and eggs or a meze any time of day at the historic Kafeneio tou Moungou in Hora, watching elderly islanders catch up and play cards. It will give you flavor of old Greece. Meltemi Café makes delicious pougia (small pies with fresh cheese, honey and cinnamon) and other lovely breakfast dishes. Amaz164

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ing desserts are also made at Glykia Astropalia, while you can find cheesecake made with hlori at Kolokytha. HUNGRY? Maroula Kasoulini’s food is fabled; you can find it at the Agoni Grammi restaurant in Hora. Her homemade makarounes – traditional pasta typically served with fresh cheese or a garlic sauce, among others – just might be one of those dishes you remember all your life. You should also try the goat roasted with vine twigs or the saffron rice with seafood. For lobster pasta, a local specialty, opt for a table by the sea: Al-

myra and Astakoukos in Maltezana are just the place. FOR DRINKS: At Kastro, right below the castle walls in the charming neighborhood of Karai, you’ll enjoy lovely cocktails, good music and a very friendly vibe. Bear in mind that Astypalea’s bohemian camping site is famous across Greece for its friendly atmosphere and its parties, both organized and impromptu, so keep your ears open. For a surreal experience that will likely include dancing on tables, try your luck at Kouros, the island’s only nightclub playing Greek music. — OLGA CHARAMI

NISYROS

The charming Nikia Square, probably the most Instagrammed spot on Nisyros.

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Â© CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

# #VolcanicIsland #Inspirational #ReallyDifferent #LunarLandscape #CharmingVillages #Alleycats #BoatRides #BlackPebbles #HotBaths

AREA

41 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

990

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

186

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

698m

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NISYROS INSIDER

“I FOUND MY HOME HERE” — BY ELENI ALEXANDRAKI

first traveled to Nisyros in 1988 for vacation. It was love at first sight. Straight away, I felt the need to make films there. Ten years later, I met my partner, Nikolas Kamariotis, who is from the island, further cementing my bonds with this place. Wherever there are people, a place will change over time. But the Nisyros volcano has been here for countless millennia. No one can destroy the unique beauty of the lunar landscape of the crater at the center of the island. When you’re inside it, you can sense the power of the magma boiling underneath your feet, but without feeling threatened. In that moment, it feels as if you’re walking on the moon. I miss the island when I’m away: the green fields in the winter; the carpets of daisies in the spring; the sea with its small, white-capped waves; the sweetness of the people and their lilting accents. I miss the beauty of Hohlaki Beach, with its large round stones that create a music of their own as the waves wash against the shore; I miss taking boat rides to Gyali, the “pumice island,” opposite Nisyros and swimming in Kaloutsi, with its enchanting, profoundly blue waters. I love Nisyros’ four villages: Mandraki and Pali are on the coast, while Emporios and Nikia hang on the edge of the volcano’s crater. All have largely maintained their unique beauty, but each has its own character, traditional cafés and tavernas. For good food, you won’t know where to stop first. You’ll have to visit Loli Kori, Panorama and Vegos. At Astradeni in Pali, you’ll enjoy fresh fish, while in Emporios, Balcony has wonderful meat dishes, and Apiria and Aposperi are the places to go for meze. At the Andrikos and Enallax café-bars in Mandraki, the fun can last until morning. In Nikia, you’ll find Nikolas’ café, while in Pali, your best bet is Falimento. If you like hiking, you’ll adore Nisyros. My favourite route begins in Nikia and ends at the volcano. Walking along an easy path, you can see both the sea and the crater from above as you pass through beautiful greenery. For a great view, climb to the island’s tallest peak, where you’ll find the Church of Profitis Ilias, or head to the Parthenis Windmill. Another enjoyable hike with great views is the small path that begins at the end of Lies Beach and takes you to Pachia Ammos Beach.

* Eleni Alexandraki is a film director, and she organizes the Ifestiada Film Festival, held every August on Nisyros. © SHUTTERSTOCK

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01. The ancient art of the pebbled floor is still alive.

03. A cat’s life in the colorful alley in Mandraki Village.

02. The village of Emporios, high on the caldera wall.

04. Hohlaki Beach is famous for its large volcanic stones.

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ÂŠ CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

Inside the Stefanos crater.

FOCUS THE SLEEPING GIANT Nisyros is Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s youngest volcano, and still active (though not erupting). Ancient Nisyrians chose to believe that their island was a piece of the nearby Kos, which angry Poseidon, the god of the sea, had thrown on the giant Polybotes during the Gigantomachy, trapping him underneath, causing him to groan and puff in anguish for eternity in his efforts to break free. How else could they explain the fumes that rose from the earth and the regular earthquakes? Science, of course, gave us a more plausible explanation; that of a volcano that began to emerge from the Aegean Sea about 150,000 170

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years ago and that eventually, following a series of eruptions, acquired its craters and took the shape and size we know today. A walk around the approximately 4,000-5,000 year-old Stefanos is an amazing experience. This is one of the largest and best-preserved hydrothermal craters in the world, with a diameter ranging from 260m to 330m and a depth of 27m, with an otherworldly surface of hydrogen sulfide-puffing fumaroles (the holes in the ground). This landscape has been a source of inspiration for many visiting artists, such as film directors, photographers and painters, over the years.

NISYROS OUR PICKS

EXPLORE

EXPERIENCE

CENTER OF TOWN: Spend some time in Ilikiomeni Square at the heart of Mandraki, Nisyros’ small capital, with its giant ficus tree, its tavernas and its pastry shops. In the charming, bougainvillea-adorned streets leading off it, you’ll come across elegant houses – some inhabited by people who tired of city life – whitewashed churches, workshops and stores, elderly ladies knitting on stoops, and dozens of cats living large.

FUN AND KNOWLEDGE: The village of Nikia, on the opposite rim, charms visitors with its winding cobblestone paths and its picturesque main square, Porta. Stop here at To Kafeneio tou Nikola for coffee or a drink with meze, or for some homemade soumada, a sweet, non-alcoholic almond drink served with ice, and take in the amazing sea views. Nikia also boasts a Volcanological Museum, the only one of its kind in Greece, located at a prime spot on top of the caldera and offering panoramic views of the Stefanos crater. Everything you ever wanted to know about volcanos, and Nisyros in particular, can be found here, along with a unique collection of 250 volcanic rocks.

SACRED PLACE: The 15th-c. Panaghia Spiliani Monastery stands watch over Mandraki and appears to hover in the night-time sky like an illuminated apparition. You’ll have to climb 130 steps to reach it, but it’s worth it. With an intricately carved wooden templon from 1725 among its treasures, it is considered one of the most important monasteries in Greek Orthodoxy and attracts pilgrims from all over Greece. The celebrations marking the Dormition of the Virgin on August 15 is a two-day affair that culminates in a panigyri, a festival with food, drink and dancing, including one folk dance led by a woman holding aloft a collection cup for donations, before everyone sits down to a meal of chickpea stew at the village’s main square. THE VIEW FROM ABOVE: The imposing Dorian-built fortress of Paleokastro, which rises up above Mandraki, makes you wonder how the ancients managed to move and stack up such enormous stones. This is a great place to enjoy a sunset or a full moon. A VILLAGE REBORN: The village of Emporios, perched high on the caldera wall and invisible from the sea, was abandoned after a destructive earthquake in 1933, but has started to rebound in recent years; many of its traditional homes are being renovated by new owners to be used as either private dwellings or as commercial guesthouses. The village is known for its two excellent tavernas and a natural sauna in a small cave at its entrance.

QUARRY ISLAND: The nearby islet of Gyali, a designated Area of Exceptional Natural Beauty, has been shaped by both volcanic and human activity over the millennia. People have been extracting perlite, obsidian and pumice from here for thousands of years, and archaeologists have found traces of a late-Neolithic era settlement, remains from a Bronze Age forge and an ancient cemetery. If you want time to explore it, take the morning boat with the quarry workers.

BEST SWIMS: Avlaki, Nisyros’ old harbor, may be long-deserted, but its old quay offers plenty of space to lay down your towel and enjoy one of the best swims on the island, in beautiful, clear waters. It’s a 25-minute drive on a tricky downhill road from the nearest village of Nikia, so make sure to bring everything you need. Visitors staying in Mandraki, on the other hand, don’t need a car to get their feet wet. Located below the monastery, Hohlaki Beach (with its big blue-black stones) can be reached on foot. The sound of big volcanic pebbles rolling down the shore as the waves retreat is so soothing, you can meditate to it. Plus, the sea is crystal clear. Be sure to bring water shoes if your feet are sensitive and plenty of sunscreen; shade is limited. © CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

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SOME LIKE IT HOT: The natural hot baths, located approximately 1.5km from Mandraki, is a quintessential Nisyros experience. The Municipal Bath House (Open Mon-Sun 07:00-09:30 & 17:0019:30, Admission €5 for 20’) has been around since the 19th century and still attracts bathers young and old, who soak in its 45°C healing waters to relax and to treat a variety of ailments. The kafeneio on the ground floor serves all kinds of beverages and snacks if you feel peckish.

TASTE LOCAL TREATS: While in Nisyros, don’t miss out on delicacies such as pythia (chickpea fritter, the Greek version of falafel), usually served with an almond-and-garlic sauce; boukounies (pork chunks fried in lard) and kapama (kid goat stuffed with rice).

01. The imposing Panaghia Spiliani Monastery in Mandraki.

02. Many beautiful little coves can be found on the island of Gyali, especially if you’re on your own boat.

03. The formidable Dorian-built fortress of Paleokastro stands above Mandraki.

RECOMMENDED TABLES: In Emporios, Balkoni tou Emporiou is run by a lady called Katina who prepares traditional dishes. The tables at the edge of the veranda are particularly popular, as they offer a great volcano view. A relatively new entry to the village is Aposperi, a modern kafeneio with a great ambiance, amazing view, and excellent meze, spirits and wines produced by Kallia and her father Vangelis. In Mandraki, under the shade of the trees on Ilikiomeni Square, Irini serves homestyle food as well as great desserts. THE BAR SCENE: Nisyros’ modest nightlife scene is concentrated at the point where Mandraki spills out to the sea. At the four or five bars that rub shoulders in this tiny version of Mykonos’ Little Venice, thirsty visitors will be treated to good jazz, refined rock and modern Greek folk music as they chill out within meters of the sea. There’s a Greek dive bar, too, and, while it may not gel with the overall atmosphere, it does provide an opportunity for the night owls who like to catch the cheese pies and buns hot out of the oven of the adjacent bakery. — GIANNIS PAPAGODIANNIS, MARIA COVEOU D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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KOS

Î¤he Italian Palazzo del Governo (Government Palace), the most impressive building from the Italian period, and Nerantzia Castle.

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# #VacationIsland #SunSeaSights #Hippocrates #KaleidoscopeTown #ExpatMagnet #Cosmopolitan #RideABike #SoManyBeaches #FamilyFriendly #OnABudget #HiddenCharms

AREA

287 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

33,390

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

200

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

846m

MT DIKAIOS

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KOS I N S I D E R

“I DIDN’T REALIZE HOW MUCH BEAUTY THERE WAS ON THIS ISLAND” — BY LINDA KOULIAS*

“K

os is an island in the Aegean Sea” – that’s your typical, encyclopedia-entry approach to starting the description of the place I live in and love. But for me, Kos is not just “an island.” For me, it’s so much more than that, with its ever-present smell of thyme, its colorful villages, its beautiful beaches, and its rich history, including its role as the birthplace of Hippocrates, the legendary “Father of Medicine.” It is my family, and it is my home. When I first came to Kos, I didn’t realize how much beauty there was on this island, and even now, after 15 years, I’m still finding new places and new things to do. I first came here for work, as the head of a tour group from the Czech Republic. At the Asclepeion, the official tour guide for Kos’ archaeological sites would explain the history in English, and I would translate it for the Czechs. That was it. I fell in love with both the Asclepeion and the tour guide – now my husband – and I decided to live here forever. During the summer, Kos gets quite busy. It welcomes about one million tourists from all over the world. They come to enjoy their vacations by sunbathing on long sandy beaches in Kefalos, swimming in the warm seas and the waves at Tigaki Beach or by relaxing in the hot waters of the thermal spring at Therma Beach. The sea that surrounds Kos is crystal clear, the color of the water varies from sparkling light turquoise to a mysterious shade of deep blue, and there’s a lot of underwater life. Kos Town really comes to life in the summer, offering great restaurants, little streets with souvenir shops, a very busy nightlife or the chance to just relax in Eleftherias Square with a nice frappé iced coffee. For those who like history, the Asclepeion is a truly special archaeological site. It’s a 176

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place of wonder and of spiritual power, the very spot where modern medicine was born. The Asclepeion has three terraces; from the top of it, you’ll be left breathless by the extraordinary views of Kos Town and the mainland of Turkey across the sea – your reward for climbing up here. Bodrum on the Turkish mainland is an excursion option. I like to tell my friends that whenever someone comes to Kos, they have the opportunity to see two continents and visit two countries with two different religions and languages but plenty of history in common. Of course, you can visit other nearby Greek islands as well. It’s a one-hour boat trip to Nisyros, which boasts an active volcano; we sometimes call it a small Santorini because of its whiteblue houses, its narrow streets and its black sandy beaches. Another boat trip takes you to Kalymnos – nowadays a paradise for rock climbers and yoga practitioners, but originally the home of sponge divers. When the weather’s not right for sunbathing, you can: visit the Archaeological Museum, in which the oldest existing statue of Hippocrates is displayed; check out Casa Romana, a restored Roman-era villa with beautiful mosaics; or drop in at the small zoo and botanical garden on the edge of Zia, a magical little village where people go to see romantic sunsets, and to shop for fresh herbs, local ceramics and a lot of other souvenirs. On Kos, we have our own wineries, our own honey industry – famous for its thyme honey – and, of course, large-scale production of extra virgin olive oil. During the summer, our municipality organizes a number of very popular events, enjoyed by locals and tourists alike, celebrating the fact that it was here that Hippocrates was born. Events may include theater and dance performances, concerts, or exhibitions in public spaces such as the

main square of Kos Town, the ancient theater or the castle. On the island, our year is divided into two parts. During the summer, most of us work long hours; when winter comes, we have time to spare. We spend a lot of it with our children, taking long walks on empty beaches. Even in winter, the weather is generally mild enough so that you can swim in the sea, at least if you’re brave and hardy enough. Throughout Kos Town, the municipality has built several cycle paths; they’re used by tourists during their summer vacations, but they’re handy in the wintertime, too. There are a lot of us who prefer to leave the car at home and pedal along on these comfortable new bike lanes. Everything is more relaxed in winter; we gather at restaurants, coffee houses and bars, we play cards, talk and enjoy our time together. Kos is, for me, a very special island. Over the past few years, it’s had a hard time and it’s been punished now and then just for trying to be good and kind. At first, like the rest of Greece, we had to deal with the economic crisis. Then the refugee crisis hit, and Kos was painted in a poor light, simply because of the help we provided to refugees. And then, to top it all off, last year we had a very strong earthquake, too. However, what does not kill you makes you stronger, and so Kos has grown stronger, better and healthier than ever. I hope that all those who come to Kos are able to perceive its beauty and appreciate its strength as I do, and that they really enjoy the time they spend here.

*Linda Koulias is a contract manager.

A bike ride along Finikon (“Palm”) Avenue, on the waterfront of Kos Town.

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EXPLORE LOOK AROUND: You can get a quick read of Kos’ entire history by just standing in the middle of Eleftherias (Freedom) Square and doing a slow twirl: you’ll see a section of the city’s ancient wall (366 BC); the late 18th-c. Defterdar Mosque (minus the minaret which collapsed in an earthquake last summer) and buildings dating from the Italian occupation. One of these houses is the sculpture-filled Archaeological Museum of Kos (Open Tue-Sun 08:00-20:00). A WALK IN THE PAST: Were it not for last year’s earthquake, which caused heavy damages to the island’s iconic Castle of Nerantzia, this would have been the starting point of your exploration. Instead, you can start early with a stroll through the ruins at the ancient Agora (366 BC), before continuing on to the nearby Western Archaeological Zone, whose important structures and monuments include Thermes, the ancient stadium, the ksiston (the stoa where athletes would train) of the ancient gymnasium, mosaics, and the Nymphaion building. Directly opposite, you’ll see the restored Roman Odeon (1st-2nd c. 178

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AD) and, a short walk away, you’ll come across the famous Casa Romana, the only renovated house from its era in Greece. FURTHER AFIELD: For other interesting ruins, head to Palio Pyli, a site approximately 10km from Kos Town, where a Byzantine village once stood. The halfhour hike up to its 10th-11th century castle may be strenuous when it’s hot, but you’ll be rewarded by a refreshing breeze and an incredible view. A walk along the paths through the greenery at the base of the hill is also worthwhile, particularly for the three Byzantine churches that still stand there – Kastriani, Aghios Antonios and Taxiarches. You can wrap it all up with some well-deserved refreshments or a meal at Oria, a very nice taverna nearby. BEFORE SUNSET: Late afternoon is the perfect time to take a walk around Antimachia Castle (25km from Kos Town), a splendid fortress built by the Knights of St John that becomes all the more dramatic in the softer light at the end of day. Cross the threshold of the main gate, wander among the ruins and churches of this once-bustling settlement, and enjoy the view from the remaining battlements. You can then walk down the cobbled trail

01. The gate of the Castle of Antimachia with its coat of arms. | 02. A detail from the 2nd-3rd century BC Nymphaion in the Western Archaeological Zone. | 03. Casa Romana, a luxurious Roman residence spread over 2,400 square meters, has been restored; its exhibits shed light on the daily life of the villa’s onetime residents.

to the seaside village of Kardamena and enjoy refreshments and sweets at the quaint little café Lovemade, or drop by Christina’s Shop, where you can see old looms in use and buy carpets, rag rugs or bags.

EXPERIENCE RENT A BIKE: One of the best ways to get around is by bicycle, thanks to the 13km-long bicycle path running along the coast from Faros Beach in the east to Psalidi Beach to the west. It also crosses the center of Kos Town along Ippokratous and Vassileos Pavlou Streets, linking the town’s two archaeological parks (the Western Archaeological Zone and the Ancient Agora). For tours off the beaten path, contact the Women Cyclists of Kos (Tel. (+30) 697.700.0901).

FOCUS THE ISLAND OF HEALING, ASCLEPIUS AND HIPPOCRATES. As medical care in Classical Greece advanced (5th-4th c. BC) and patients had access to more science-based treatments, a growing number of respected specialists appeared, most notably Hippocrates of Kos (ca. 460-ca. 370 BC). Trained at the Asclepeion, a Koan sanctuary dedicated to the divine healer Asclepius and his daughter Hygeia (Health, Hygiene), Hippocrates became a skilled physician and teacher, traveled widely and eventually founded his own school on Kos (late 5th c. BC). He also wrote the influential Hippocratic Oath (ca. 400 BC), a code of medical ethics still followed today. The Asclepeion occupies a hillside with three enormous terraces, massive retaining walls and interconnecting monumental staircases – an elegantly colonnaded “hospital” of particular fame among the Romans. - JOHN LEONARD D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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MORE THAN A BEACH: When it comes to swimming, Aghios Stefanos is a very popular beach, but it’s also quite special; it’s located beside two Early Christian churches from the 5th-6th century and looks out onto the islet of Kastri. Take a tour of the archaeological site on the rocky headland and have a go at jumping in the sea from the nearby rocks, just like the kids do. LESS IS MORE: Kos boasts more than 70km of beaches – approximately twothirds of its coastline. Most are covered with sun loungers and umbrellas, so we’ll just mention our own favorites: Cavo Paradiso, at the end of a dirt road on the western coast is, hands down, the nicest. It’s pretty hard to reach, which means that it doesn’t usually get crowded. In fact, you’ll probably feel like you’re on some other, quieter island, although there is a refreshment stand where you can get all your basic supplies. On the way there, there are a few quiet sandy beaches with prickly cedars in the area of Ai-Yiannis Theologos. At the opposite end of the island, you can enjoy a unique bathing experience at the beach of Embros Thermes, aka Therma, where a ring of rocks just off the beach forms a small saltwater “pond” and healing 3050°C water bubbles up from the bowels of the earth. The experience is even more magical at night.

JUST DO IT: Adrenaline buffs will find no shortage of thrills on Kos, where almost every beach has a watersports center offering everything from windsurfing, kite surfing, fly boarding, SUP, parasailing and kayaking to jet skis, wakeboards and bananas. Experienced windsurfers and kite surfers tend to congregate at the large and popular beaches of Psalidi (west of the town) and Marmari (on the northern

01. Cavo Paradiso Beach is so remote it rarely gets busy. | 02. Water sports enthusiasts have many beaches to choose from on Kos. | 03. The ruins of the early Christian Church of Aghios Stefanos, with a view of the islet of Kastri in Kefalos Bay. © CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU, MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/EPHORATE OF DODECANESE

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coast), although beginners are better off at Mastichari to the west. SERIOUS WALKING: Try the trail leading up from the village of Zia to Christos Peak on Mt Dikaios (1-1.5 hours) or take part in an organized trek with the local group run by Sofia Karagianni (Tel. (+30) 694.538.5330). FOR KIDS, TOO: Spend an afternoon at the Park of Colors (Amerikis & Psaron, Kos Town), an initiative launched by artist Manthos Arbilias; there’s a bar, as well as a great play area for kids, and the venue hosts puppet and shadow-puppet theater performances and live music shows. CUTE THINGS: For special handmade gifts or souvenirs, try the Imaginarium Gallery (Platanos Square), the Lydia Jewelry Store (3 Filita) or the Art Zone (32 Kolokotroni).

TASTE A TASTY START: If you’re in Kos Town for breakfast, opt for Greek classics such as a cheese pie drizzled with honey or a bougatsa cream pie from the kafeneio Tsivrinis (also known as Ariston) at Ka182

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zouli Square. A favorite among locals is a toasted sandwich dubbed the Aghia Paraskevi, after the church next to which the small, unnamed café that makes it has been located since 1972. BEST IN TOWN: Kos is not renowned for its traditional cuisine, but you can eat well in town in the courtyards of Pote tin Kyriaki (“Never on Sunday,” 9 Pisandrou) and Evdokia Mummy’s Cooking (13 Bouboulinas) for Greek homestyle casseroles; at Lambros (21 Psaron) for kebabs; and, for modern cuisine, at Broadway (36 Megalou Alexandrou) and H2O, the Kos Aktis Art Hotel restaurant. For exquisite seafood dishes, the best choices are both on G. Averoff Street: Barbouni Restaurant (No. 26) and the taverna Nikolas o Psaras (No. 21). For cocktails with a view of the port, try Sitar (15 Riga Feraiou) or Kaseta (4 Akti Miaouli) HIGHLANDS HIGHLIGHTS: The abandoned village of Haihoutes on the slopes of Mt Dikaios is experiencing something of a revival. At its quiet little kafeneio you can pick from a great selection of meze, and take in the odd bit of live music, ranging from rebetiko to jazz (Tel. (+30) 693.263.7905). Other highlights in

01. Manthos Arbilias at the Park of Colors in Kos Town. | 02. At the kafeneio in the village of Haihoutes. | 03. Lovemade in Kardamena.

the highlands include the amazing taverna Casino (Tel. (+30) 22420.302.41) in the village of Asomatos, and the cult kafeneio/antique shop Oraia Ellas (Tel. (+30) 22420.690.04) in Lagoudi. EASTERN DELIGHTS: The Muslim village of Platani, not far from Kos Town, is worth visiting for the amazing kebabs and other Middle Eastern dishes served at the tavernas Arap and Hasan. Don’t leave without trying a slice of ravani (sweet semolina cake) with a scoop of mastic-flavored ice cream, or some sweet tomato preserves at the Paradosi dessert shop. EDIBLE SOUVENIRS: Buy some possa (a local cheese that’s aged in wine for five months) from Yiannou’s Dairy in Pyli, or a jar of honey from Melissa in Kefalos. Of the island’s wineries, two are open for visitors: Triantafyllopoulos in Ziprai (www. koswinery.gr) and Hatziemmanouil in Linopoti (www.hatziemmanouil.gr). Both produce award-winning wines that you can buy or sample on the spot. - OLGA CHARAMI

PSERIMOS

FISHING OFF THE COAST OF PSERIMOS

#JustASwimsuit #NoCars #FarmToTable #FreshFish #NoWorries

AREA

POPULATION

DISTANCE

SQ.KM.

2011 CENSUS

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

14.6 80

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HIGHEST PEAK

268m

OUR PICKS WHITE AND BLUE: Greek flags are everywhere: fluttering in the wind or painted on walls and rocks. This shouldn’t surprise you; you’re on a proud tiny island that’s nearly as close to the shores of Turkey as it is to its neighbors Kalymnos and Kos. THE CENTER OF LIFE: Avlaki is the port, the village and, all in all, the whole of Pserimos. Here are the rooms to rent, the tavernas, the single supermarket, and a long stretch of beach with golden sand and limpid waters. In August, it gets really crowded, so be sure that when the boats laden with day-trippers arrive from Kos, you’re already out of town and heading to... THE REMOTE BEACHES: For relative seclusion, try those “around the back:” Vathis, Panaghia Grafiotissa and Marathontas have sand and fine shingle, lapped by blue waters, and it will take you half an hour to reach them from Avlaki, climbing up and down moderate hills. Another 15 minutes will get you to Tafos Beach, but make sure you have the right shoes, because you’ll be walking over craggy terrain, with just the goats for company. (Locals often tell you that, on Pserimos, you don’t need anything, even shoes, but don’t believe them.) Alternatively, the fishermen would be more than happy to take you there by boat.

AVLAKI

MADE IN THE SHADE

ROCK CLIMBING: This year, five new routes have been established on the rocks around the harbor. Make sure to bring your own equipment. TASTE: Pserimos’ tavernas are all-day haunts that also serve breakfast. Usually, this includes eggs, dairy products and honey – all local. The salads all come with delicious capers – the cliffs are full of them, and it is no coincidence that the island is also called Kappari (the Greek word for “caper”). For lunch or dinner, head to the family-owned taverna Manòlas. The owner raises his own animals, produces his own cheese and olive oil, and even catches a lot of the seafood he serves. FULL MOON RISING: It’s evening, and you’re sitting on the beach with a drink in your hand and the hiss of the surf in your ears, and from one of the tavernas there’s the distant laughter of a group of friends. Then the moon appears, and a general shout rises up all at once from everyone, especially if it’s a full moon, and a whole happy crowd hurries over to join you on the beach, staring up at the glorious spectacle. — OLGA CHARAMI

“TRAVEL LIGHT” BY GIORGOS TRIKOILIS

FISHERMAN, LIVESTOCK FARMER AND OWNER OF THE TAVERNA MANOLAS

On Pserimos, you’ll experience the ultimate in freedom. You don’t need a vehicle, or a lot of clothes. There are just a few dozen of us permanent residents, and we have an excess of hospitality to extend to visitors. We have a very nice, perfectly pristine beach right in front of the village. This is where everything happens, although you can get to other beaches by boat or by footpath. You’ll enjoy exceptional food at any one of the nine establishments on the island. We have very fresh fish and we produce most of the products we serve right here. In my taverna, for example, I use my own cheese, meat and extra virgin olive oil – our olive grove has 7,000 trees. If you’d like a drink, there’s a pool bar at the hotel Pserimos Village, the only alternative to the rooms for rent. Pserimos is not a complicated place. That’s why I tell you, you don’t need to bring anything with you, just a swimsuit. And on the more remote beaches, not even that…

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Rock climbing with a view of Telendos.

# #ClimbersParadise #DivingLegends #SpongeKingdom #WorldFamous #EpicRocks #HauntingStories #Fjords #Fishing #OuzoPower #TopSeafood #Authentic #TakeItEasy

AREA

110

SQ.KM.

POPULATION

16,180

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

183

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

760m

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The port of Pothia

K A LY M N O S I N S I D E R

“A REAL LAND OF ADVENTURES” — BY ARIS THEODOROPOULOS*

ith my right hand, I’m clinging to a small hold, which barely fits the tips of my fingers. I have to pull back quickly and grab the large stalactite that is hanging behind my head, and grip it with my legs. I take a couple of deep breaths, I grab for the big stalactite with both hands while my legs dangle in the air, and, in the end, I slip and fall. A few seconds later, smiling, I’m hanging in space at the end of an elastic rope; spread out behind and all around me is the still, deep blue of the sea and opposite me in the distance is the characteristic pyramid shape of Telendos, a small rocky island. This feeling is incomparable. I first visited Kalymnos in the spring of 1999, when I learnt about some new rock climbing routes created by a group of Italian climbers. I was stunned when I first saw and touched the rock; it was perfect for climbing and all set against the backdrop of a wonderfully wild landscape and the sea. Since then, I’ve bonded with the island, becoming (almost) a Kalymnian by choice, with a desire to help promote it as a rock climbing destination. Today, Kalymnos is one of the most popular destinations for rock climbers in the world. Even if you’ve never scaled

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a rock face before, you can try climbing some of the easy beginner routes, working under the guidance of one of the highly experienced instructors who work on the island. And it’s perhaps the only place in Greece where an alternative form of tourism draws people at least eight months of the year. Thanks to the rock climbers, the island remains lively in the autumn and in the spring – indeed, the tourism season actually reaches its peak in October. The residents often say that the rocky terrain that they once considered a curse – which, for centuries, forced them to emigrate or to dive for sponges to make a living – has been transformed into a blessing. The islanders themselves remain genuinely hospitable, and their homeland seems like it belongs to an earlier era. The most touristic part of Kalymnos – which is where the rock-climbing happens – is located on its western side. That is where I, too, relax after climbing, in Masouri, sitting at a table with a great view of the island of Telendos across the water and a mermizeli salad (shredded tomato with soft cheese, capers and onion on rusk) in front of me. Make sure you see the “pirate beach” at Kalamies, and check out Palioniso,

perhaps the most beautiful beach on the island in an out-of-the-way settlement opposite the islets of Imia, with clear waters and a few picturesque tavernas. In the naturally sheltered fjord-like bay of Rina in Vathy, rent a kayak or a small boat and paddle to remote and secluded beaches. Or stay on land and sign up for one of the yoga sessions which are held daily in Masouri; you can practice your poses at sunset while enjoying the wonderful view of Telendos. I’m really pleased that Kalymnos is so real, that the locals remain unaltered by the tourism and that, even in August, there are no crowds and you can find in abundance that which has disappeared from many other islands: low prices for rooms and food; fresh fish; quiet beaches; and clean waters. As for the rock faces, they have a wild beauty that is so imposing that you’ll never forget them – even if you have no intention of climbing them!

* Aris Theodoropoulos is a mountain guide, a mountaineering instructor, a rock climber, and a rope access instructor. He has also authored a guide to rock climbing on Kalymnos.

PAPACHATZIS SPONGE WORKSHOP IN POTHIA

FOCUS SFOUGARADES, THE SPONGE DIVERS OF KALYMNOS Sponge diving, one of the most dangerous professions in the world, has defined Kalymnos in every possible way, bringing the island both great wealth and great pain. Hundreds of caïques would leave after Easter for the North African coast, coming back in October. The women would see their men off wearing white headscarves, which they would swap for black ones during their absence. The bells of twenty parishes would ring in unison for every returning caïque that flew its standards high, while for those that flew them half-mast, a collective mournful toll would begin, since that meant that some of the crew had been lost. Until the development of the

standard diving dress in 1870, sponge divers would free-dive as far down as 70m. The suit helped prolong their stay on the sea bed, but it also meant they had to decompress after diving. Such safety measures meant little to these men; their bonuses and their own sense of pride would cause them to disregard precautions in place to protect them. This is, in a way, how the bends “epidemic” came about. In the first 30 years of the standard diving dress, Kalymnos lost 800 divers; 200 more were paralyzed. Today, there are about 80 active sponge divers left; with the present dearth of sponges, they collect mostly seashells. - OLGA CHARAMI D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

EXPLORE THE PORT AND CAPITAL: Pothia is a colorful and lively place, full of ouzeries and cafés, with boats lining the waterfront. It is graced by simple island homes and two-story neoclassical buildings from the prosperous 19th and early 20th centuries, when captains and merchants accumulated wealth on long voyages and sent money back home. Take a walk on the beachfront and through the most beautiful neighborhood, Patithries. Stop for a look at the 1930s Town Hall (once the headquarters of the Italian occupation) and the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of Jesus Christ (1861), with its marble templon by the great Tinos sculptor Yannoulis Chalepas (1851-1938) and icons by great local artists. DIVE INTO HISTORY: You can learn about the history of sponge fishing in Kalymnos at the small Naval Museum 190

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(Tel. (+30) 6978.280.313, by appointment) and at the Traditional Kalymnian House (Tel. (+30) 22430.516.35, open daily 08:30-15:00 & 17:00-20:00), where Faneromeni Skylla-Halkidou, the daughter of a sponge diver, shares moving stories about the dangerous profession from the perspective of the women who stayed behind and fretted over the lives of the divers. THE CASTLES: A good time to walk through the whitewashed alleys of Hora (also called Horio), the old capital of the island – basically a continuation of Pothia – is in the soft afternoon light. Visit the remains of the small Chrysocheria Castle, with its beautiful view of Pothia, before climbing up to the old neighborhoods to the north and finding the stone-paved path to the Castle of Hora. Built by the Order of the Knights of Saint John at the end of the 15th century atop earlier stone fortifications, the castle overlooked Po-

thia and the sea from a strategic position. Wander carefully among the ruined houses and admire the strong castle walls, some restored buildings, the chapels and the coats of arms of the knights. TAKE A PEEK: Make a stop on the road that leads from Hora to Panormos to see an interesting little archaeological site that includes the remains of the 5th-c. Church of Christ of Jerusalem as well as mosaics, fragments from the ancient city and from the temples of Delian Apollo and Asclepios, as well as the newer chapel of Ipakois. Unfortunately, you’ll have to peer at it all through the fence, as the area is not open to visitors.

EXPERIENCE THE DAILY CATCH: Kalymnos prides itself for having one of the largest coastal fishing fleets in the Mediterranean, with 600-700 fishing boats and 1,000 pro-

CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

01. The fjord of Rina in the valley of Vathy. 02. Emporio Beach, at the end of the road on the northwest coast. 03. Τhe early Christian Church of Christ of Jerusalem. © PERIKLES MERAKOS

fessional fishermen. Meet them at the fishermen’s wharf in Pothia, as they bait fishing lines and beat octopuses against the rocks to tenderize them. The Social Cooperative Enterprise “Kalymnos Seafood” sells exquisite delicacies made by local women, including swordfish, octopus ink paste, and white tuna smoked with thyme, savory and oregano. CAN’T LEAVE WITHOUT THEM: Shop for sponges in Pothia’s workshops or just learn about the complicated processing methods used to produce the commercial product. Papachatzis, Makryllos and Haramis are willing to explain everything to you. BECOME SPIDERMAN: Kalymnos is one of the best climbing destinations in the world, with more than 3,800 climbing routes and dozens of schools. Interesting areas to visit are Masouri and Armeos, in the west, where huge boul-

ders rise sharply above the sea and the surrounding settlements. A useful read is the guidebook written by our insider, Aris Theodoropoulos, a pioneer of climbing on the island (climbkalymnos.com). Even if you don’t make the climb, this is a place where you can find some of the most popular beaches (Kantouni, Platys Gialos, Linaria and Masouri) and take in a magnificent spectacle, as the sun goes down over neighboring Telendos, vanishing behind the impressive pointy silhouette of the island. EVERYBODY’S DIVING: The first word that springs to mind when someone says “Kalymnos” is diving, thanks to its long sponge diving tradition. Home to the first-ever state-owned school for professional divers, the island is exempt from the diving restrictions that exist nearly everywhere else in Greece and is ideal for underwater exploration. Marine life is abundant and there are underwater

caves, chasms and shipwrecks to explore. Kalymnos Diving Club (Tel. (+30) 6974.646.413). A REWARDING ROUTE: A right turn after the village of Skalia, in the west part of the island, will bring you to a winding eastbound road that overlooks the climbing fields. Once you reach the east coast, the landscape changes. From here, you can see the impressive barren slopes that smell of thyme and oregano; across the water, your view includes the neighboring islands of Leros and Lipsi, the Imia islets and the Turkish coast. (Along the way, there’s a downhill path that leads to the remote sandy beach of Sykati – a 30-minute walk – with emerald-green waters). At the end of the road, you’ll find yourself on Palionissos Beach, one of Kalymnos’ most beautiful locations. The pebbled beach, with its shady tamrisk trees, faces an idyllic closed bay. It’s a perfect place to lie down and listen to the D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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cicadas. Don’t be surprised if a seagull approaches you looking for a treat. If you get hungry yourself, Makarouna Taverna is famous for its slow-baked goat.

THE FJORD: Vathy is a large valley (full of citrus trees) that terminates in an impressive fjord at Rina Harbor. Walk along the waterfront, dive off the piers or the famous big boulder of Rina, or slip into one of the Byzantine churches here. The most beautiful of them all is the 6th-c., three-aisled Taxiarchis, built among the ruins of ancient fortifications. If you rent a kayak and paddle through the fjord, you can make your way to nearby Daskalio cave and check out its stalactites (Kalymnos Kayak Center, Tel (+30) 22430.311.32). STRETCH A LEG: Kalymnos offers great walking routes, too. One of the most beautiful paths, in the eastern part of the island, will lead you to the Panaghia Kyra Psili Monastery, built in part within a cave. The steep uphill hike lasts about 30 minutes. It’s not known when the monastery was built, but it is beloved by the locals and the celebration of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary on August 15 is spectacular. Another nice route, in the west, runs parallel to the sea and leads from Kantouni Beach to the Chapel of Aghios Fotis (approximately 45 minutes).

TASTE

LOCAL SPECIALTIES: The two must-try dishes of Kalymnos are the fylla (vine leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice) and the mououri (goat stuffed with rice and giblets, slow-baked in a sealed clay pot). You should also stick a fork into the mermizeli salad.

CITRUS KINGDOM: The Valley of Vathy is full of citrus orchards hidden behind tall walls. You can purchase citrus products, including marmalades, liqueurs and sweets from the Amfipetran Youth Club (Tel. (+30) 694.160.5006). The Perivoli Café, located amid the orchards, has the feel of a Mexican hacienda and features live music nights. © CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

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01. This amazing traditional dance depicts sponge divers defying the symptoms of the bends. | 02. The Neoclassical Museum of Kalymnos. | 03. The Italian-era Town Hall on the Pothia waterfront. | 04. Ouzo and octopus at the Sfougaras kafeneio. | 05. The Kalydonis brothers play the fiddle and laouto and often give performances on the island.

WHERE TO EAT: Kalymnians often dip grilled octopus into a glass of ouzo; supposedly both become tastier this way. Do it yourself at Sfougaras in Pothia, where you can also taste octopus fritters, spinialo (shellfish preserved in sea water) and lobster tails. After a day at Panormos Beach, go to Mamouzelos Taverna for fresh fish and shellfish, pasta with lobster and other seafood specialties. Another place with great seafood cooked in inspiring ways is the Aegean Tavern (aka Aegeopelagitiko) in Masouri. Go before dark to enjoy a view of Telendos from its lovely terrace and try the roasted octopus, lobster spaghetti and steamed mussels. Authentic local dishes are also served at Tsopanakos in Masouri – the owner is a farmer who serves his own meats and cheeses, as well as fylla, mououri goat and homemade bread. SUGAR CRAVINGS: Michalaras café-pâtisserie in Pothia is famous for its desserts, particularly its galaktoboureko (custard pie with syrup) made with fresh milk. For a sweet souvenir from Kalymnos, call the Kopanezos family: they keep their beehives on remote rocks and let the bees do their magic undisturbed, producing an exquisite thyme honey which you can purchase at their outlet in Vathy (Tel. (+30) 22430.294.46). HAPPY HOUR: The most popular bars on Kalymnos are on Linaria Beach: the famous Domus, Albus and Rock & Blues. For nice cocktails in a different setting (in an amazing courtyard with lemon trees) head to Monopoly in Pothia. — OLGA CHARAMI

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TELENDOS

THE CHAPEL OF AGHIOS GEORGIOS

#Tranquil #Otherworldly #NoCars #NoCrowds #PyramidShaped #SuperSplash

AREA

POPULATION

DISTANCE

ELEVATION

SQ.KM.

2011 CENSUS

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

RACHI

4.6 94

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165

460m

THE PATH TO AGHIOS GEORGIOS

KAPSOULI TAVERNA

POTHA

OUR PICKS NO STRESS: On Telendos, you’ll find tranquility and relaxation. Walk along the paved promenade of the small seaport with its fishing boats. Next to it is a shallow, sandy beach, almost entirely shaded by trees. This will be your whole world throughout your stay, since this is where you’ll find the only village, the only rooms to rent and the only shops. BEST SWIMS: Venturing beyond the promenade will lead you, by way of a short footpath, to the family-friendly beach of Potha, and to the even more beautiful Paradise Beach, favored by nudists. Also worth discovering are the southwest beaches: Hohlakas and Travilia (10-min walk, sun loungers available) and Pnigmenos (20-min walk, remote). TRACES OF HISTORY: Grab a mask and snorkel and explore – on the seabed, next to the small harbor – the ruins of the city that stood here well into the Early Christian period, before an earthquake in 554

AD. caused it to sink. A short walk southeast will bring you to the Early Christian necropolis, known as Tholaria. Church ruins from the same period are also found across the island, as well as in the village itself. Another option is to walk along the 2km path from Paradise Beach to the ruins of the Byzantine settlement. The ascent is strenuous and the ruins indistinct, but the view from the chapel of Aghios Konstantinos is a rich reward. NEW HEIGHTS: Telendos also has rock climbing opportunities. Contact Aris Theodoropoulos (Tel. (+30) 694.450.5279). SUNSET TIP: Head west, to the chapel of Aghios Georgios. It’s built on a wavewashed rock and you’ll need to go down some steep steps, but it’s sheer magic! TASTE: All of the tavernas are good, but our favorite is Kapsouli. You’ll drink ouzo with the fishermen and nibble on fresh fish, grilled octopus, taramosalata (fish roe dip) and shrimp from Symi.

“MY PRINCESS” BY CHARALAMBOS PLARSIS

5TH-GRADE STUDENT. 9 YEARS OLD.

My island is Telendos. I have lived here ever since I can remember. My favorite place is Hohlakas Beach, which is on the back of the island. I can see the sunset there, as well as the face of the princess in the rocks on the mountain opposite. There is a legend that says that the mountain took the shape of a princess who was killed jumping from there. She jumped because she believed that the man she loved had drowned on his way to meet her. When she saw his candle had been extinguished by a wave, she was lost, but left her face behind forever. It is the prettiest place I have ever seen.

— OLGA CHARAMI D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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LEROS

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Night falls on Aghia Marina, the island’s second port.

# #WarHistory #AmazingDiving #WrecksGalore #SurrealSights #UniqueTown #ValueForMoney #WonderfulWalks #OutOfTheBox

AREA

54 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

7,920

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

171

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

327m

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LEROS INSIDER

“TIME LIES TRAPPED IN ITS WATERS” — BY KOSTAS KOUVAS* / PHOTOS: PERIKLES MERAKOS

spent all of my childhood years on Leros. As a young man, I roamed around a fair amount, but 20 years ago I returned permanently to the island that I love. Leros is a quiet, high-quality destination, but it’s a true paradise for two categories of travelers in particular: adventure-seekers and gourmets. On its hillsides, hikers following clearly signposted trails will come across cannons, wagons used to transport landmines, and ruins of Italian WWII fortifications. We recently created a path for cyclists as well. Since 2000, we’ve been developing diving tourism on the island. Its seabed is unique – our entire history is there. Visitors are impressed by what they see below the surface, but for us it’s something more than an attraction; it's something very profound, a part of our history and identity, connected to the war stories we’ve heard from our grandfathers and fathers. Here lay twelve wrecks – airplanes, cargo ships and WWII destroyers, including the legendary Vasilissa Olga – and if you look carefully, you might even see the personal belongings of the poor soldiers lost here. There are more underwater surprises in store for divers. Often in our underwater excursions, we’re fortunate enough to be accompanied by some of the large marine animals that live in our waters, including 198

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seals, dolphins, sea turtles and even whales. I devote a lot of time to the sea, but when I’m ashore, one of the places I love is Katsouni – it’s a spot near the entrance to the bay that you can reach on foot. The surroundings here are captivating, with rugged rocks and a small, forested patch of land, a little glade. Alternatively, I head up to Kastro, the Castle of Panteli. The place is gorgeous, especially around sunset. The view it offers is incomparable: it’s as though a giant relief map of the island has just been laid out at your feet. To reach the castle, you can climb up 365 steps or you can take the road. Leros has a total of twelve villages, but because the settlements have expanded, each one now merges with the next. In Lakki, the main port, the Italians left their mark on the village’s architecture, meaning that a walk here presents many photo opportunities. The other harbor is at Aghia Marina, the official capital of the island. From here, you can board one of the two traditional caiques – the “Barbarossa” or the “Aghios Georgios” – or hire one of the two speedboats available for rent, and take a tour of the beautiful islands nearby; these include Lipsi, Marathi and Arki. Many of Leros’ beaches are accessible by car. Only three offer sun loungers and beach umbrellas. At the others, tamarisk

and oak trees provide shade. For complete serenity, visit Kryfo, which, unless you are a brave hiker, can only be reached by boat. Leros is also a gastronomic destination and most of its establishments offer unbeatable value for money. I advise you to pair your food with wine from the small local vineyards, whose production just meets the demand of the local market. There are plenty of other local products to enjoy as well, including the ladotyri, krasotyri and mizithra cheeses. The thyme honey of Leros is wonderful, and a new brand, Artemis Leros Honey, was recently launched. It’s an inspiring, award-winning initiative, the first of its kind in Greece; the island’s beekeepers sell their honey to a social cooperative whose employees are mental health patients, nurses and island residents, who work in part-time shifts to create a high-quality standardized product. For pastries and pies, Paradosiako and Repapis both offer a wide selection of traditional treats, and, of course, the local drink, soumada – a delicious refreshment made from rose water and almond syrup mixed with ice-cold water.

*Kostas Kouvas is a diving instructor and the owner of the Hydrovius Diving Center.

FOCUS TRACES OF WAR In now-tranquil Leros, one might never suspect the ferocity of battle experienced by native Lerians and their Greek, British and Italian defenders during the dark days of World War II. Thanks to the port of Lakki, the presence of a major Italian naval base, and the island’s formidable coastal artillery guns, Leros was a highly prized target for both Axis and Allied powers. Following Italy’s surrender, on September 8, 1943, Germany launched an intensive aerial bombardment (September 26-October 31), then a “boots-on-the-ground” invasion

(November 12). After four days of coastal landings, paratrooper drops and fierce hand-to-hand combat – with many civilians seeking safety in tunnels and caves – the Allies capitulated on November 16. Today, Leros is a history lover’s paradise, with preserved coastal batteries; the Tunnel War Museum (Merikia); the Archaeological Museum and Kastro (Aghia Marina); and Beleni Tower’s exhibitions (Alinta). Offshore, numerous barges, landing craft, airplanes and anti-submarine nets remain visible on the seabed all around the island. - JOHN LEONARD D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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EXPLORE ITALIAN LEGACY: Lakki, one of southern Europe’s largest natural harbors, was a swamp until the early 1920s, when Italian dictator Benito Mussolini decided to build a whole city there from scratch in order to establish a base for the Royal Italian Navy and accommodate thousands of military personnel and their families. The responsibility for creating this fascist utopia was given to architects Rodolfo Petracco and Armando Bernabiti. The resulting town, which the Italians named Portolago, is considered to be the only true rationalist town outside of Italy – and has been dubbed “the weirdest town in Greece.” A mix of Modernist, Bauhaus, Renaissance, Venetian and Islamic elements, with large light-colored surfaces, horizontal openings and Cubist whimsy, makes Lakki particularly interesting for architecture afficionados. The most striking buildings are the former customs’ office; the restored Art Deco cinema, Cine Leros, which is still in use; a now-defunct hotel; and the circular market hall with its austere clock tower. VANTAGE POINT: Drive or walk up the footpath from Platanos to the Castle of Panteli (aka the Castle of the Panaghia). This well-kept site has traces of many different historical periods, all in one place, and a stunning panoramic view. It’s not precisely clear when the castle was first built, although manuscript sources indicate that it already existed in 1087. The fortifications added by the Knights of St John are clearly visible, marked with their coat of arms. In the modern era, the Italians used it as a barracks and lookout post. Inside its walls, you can find the churches of Panaghia and Frangoklissia. A SINGULAR CHURCH: Aghia Kioura (or Aghia Matrona) is probably like no other church in Greece. Its icons and murals were painted by dissidents exiled to Leros by the Greek military junta of 1967-1974. Their portrayals of saints have a modern, humanistic air and evoke a strong emotional response from the 200

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viewer. If you do make the trip to the northeastern coast of the island, where the church is located, make sure to take a swim in the gorgeous turquoise waters of the beach right below.

EXPERIENCE

BEST SWIMS: Leros’ coastline is a 78-km lacework stretch of beaches and coves offering abundant bathing options. Most beaches with umbrellas, sun loungers and refreshments are concentrated around the large bay of Alinda. You’ll also find cafes and tavernas at the beach at Panteli, 1.5 km from Aghia Marina. Vromolithos is also close by and has a smattering of beach umbrellas, as well as tamarisk trees for shade. On the western coast, sandy Gourna has all the requisite facilities, making it ideal for families with younger children. In the south, Xirokambos offers plenty of natural shade. Nearby, you can visit the beautiful little church of Panaghia Kavouradaina. It’s not just its location that’s special – it appears to be trapped between the rocks by the sea – it’s also the unusual icon of the Virgin Mary, depicted framed by the claws of a crab. Legends abound as to the provenance of the icon; all involve crabs and fishermen eager to pay tribute to the Mother of Christ. THE DEEP: Leros is a famous scuba diving destination with more than 10 wrecks lying just off its coast. The most impressive of these is the Greek warship Vassilissa Olga, which was sunk in a German air raid on Lakki harbor in 1943. You’ll find instructors and all the gear you

01. The haunting murals of Aghia Kioura Church, painted by political exiles | 02. The restored Art Deco Cine Leros | 03. Sea or snooze? There are sun loungers and beach umbrellas at Vromolithos Beach | 04. The Castle of Panteli | 05. Fun and games on Dio Liskaria Beach in Alintas. | 06. Sotos’ taverna in Drymonas serves fresh fish straight off its own boat. | 07. You’ll see quite a few windmills on Leros. These are in Panteli, with the castle in the background. D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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01. The owners of the restaurant Mylos in Aghia Marina. | 02. Many walking trails on Leros are suitable for children. | 03. Calvo Café-Pub is popular among visitors and locals alike for its snacks and cocktails.

need to explore the marine environment at the Hydrovius Dive Center (Tel. (+30) 22470.260.25). MADE FOR WALKING: If you’re fond of hikes, there are trails all across Leros. Most of them are quite easy and will take you past remains of different Italian military installations, which can be seen all over the island. One of the most charming routes is from the village of Xirokambos, in the south, to the Cape of Diaporo. It takes between an hour and an hour and a half to walk the 4.5km trail; along the way, you’ll spot an old Italian military structure with wall paintings made by soldiers during World War II. 202

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TASTE HAPPY MEALS: Local fishermen bring in fresh fish and other seafood every morning. At Karaflas, above the beach of Vromolithos and with a view of the sea, you can order meze and dishes such as octopus carpaccio, mussels with rice, and cured or grilled fish. At Sotos, in the small fishing village of Drymonas, musts include the dusky grouper, the pasta with lobster and the shellfish harvested by the owners. For a more sophisticated dining experience with a selection of top Greek and international wines, head to Mylos in Aghia Marina, right next to the sea. If it’s meat you’re craving, your best option is Petrino in the Italianate market hall building in Lakki. It’s known for its amazing grilled steaks, souvlaki and chicken, as well as spit-roasted delicacies. DESSERT ISLAND: As its Greek name suggests, Theiko (“divine”) in Lakki sells tantalizing traditional sweets such as pou-

gia (small pastry pouches stuffed with nuts and honey), amygdalota (almond cakes) and xerotigana (syrup-drenched dough fritters sprinkled with nuts, as well as cakes and homemade ice-cream. At Sweet Leros 1897 in Panteli, a dessert shop with décor which resembles a traditional house, you can get delectable galaktoboureko (custard pie), loukoumades (deep-fried dough pastries soaked in syrup), almond biscuits and rose-geranium liqueur made in-house. For patsavouropita (a local sweet pie), fritters and almond-stuffed pougia, check out Paradosiako, in Aghia Marina. NIGHTLIFE: Calvo Café-Pub in Aghia Marina is located in a beautiful old building right by the sea and serves delicious, quite imaginative cocktails and snacks. Thanks also to its good music, it has become a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Also in Aghia Marina, the bar Meltemi hosts themed nights dedicated to jazz, blues or rock music. — LINA KAPETANIOU

LEROS, GREECE, Email: crithoni.paradise@gmail.com, Tel. (+30) 22470.251.20/21, Fax. (+30) 22470.246.80

LIPSI

HOHLAKOURA BAY

#NoLoungers #NoMassTourism #24Islets #CalypsoIsland #FokianoWine

AREA

POPULATION

DISTANCE

ELEVATION

SQ.KM.

2011 CENSUS

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

SKAFI

204

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790

173

277m

THE LOCAL DAIRY

VAVOULAS-GRILLIS WINERY

LIPSI VILLAGE

OUR PICKS PILGRIMAGE: The Panaghia tou Harou (the Virgin Mary of Death) is a very special icon, kept in the Church of Aghios Ioannis Theologos. It depicts the Virgin Mary embracing the crucified Christ. According to tradition, every year on the eve of the August 23rd celebration honoring this sacred object, a small bouquet of lilies that was attached to the icon a long time ago comes back to life, sprouting new buds. BEST SWIMS: You won’t find beach umbrellas on Platys Gialos Beach but trees do provide natural shade. Pick a spot, open your beach book and just let time slip by. Pebbly Hohlakoura Beach, with its green waters and impressive rocks, is located in the southern part of the island. If you want smaller crowds and a better chance at solitude, visit Panaghia Koimisis Beach. Alternatively, take one of the small boats at the port that go to the little islets of Aspronisia, off the eastern coast of Lipsi. The tall shale rocks, combined with turquoise waters and smooth pebble beaches, create a uniquely exotic setting. THE WINERY: Visit the local winery, opened in 2010 by Manolis Vavoulas and Nikos Grillis, to taste excellent wines, made mainly from the local Fokiano variety.

SAY CHEESE: At the local dairy, which Alessandro Baldissera opened in 2016, you can try some goat’s cheese and Italian caciotta, made with milk from cows and buffalo. Ask for their signature cheeses – like their unforgettable spicy goat’s cheese with peppers. WHERE TO EAT: For special meat treats, stop by Pefko in Gialos to try the local lamb shank with tomatoes, anchovies, smoked paprika and vegetables. Make sure to order the appetizer of baked beans with local sausage, onions, Florina peppers and fresh sage. Unexpectedly refined are the delicious dishes served by Christodoulos at Dilaila on Katsadia Beach. A good example is the salad with chickpeas accompanied by cantaloupe, cherries and figs, or the fresh tuna sautéed with local vegetables. For tsipouro and seafood meze, visit Stis Vasos tou Aspraki, where Sivos makes delicious pickles and marinated anchovies, grilled octopus, and fritters made from locally grown zucchinis. A menu highlight is his mother Vaso’s meatballs, which are the epitome of simplicity: chopped beef, parsley and oregano. In August, you’ll undoubtedly run into some serious celebrations around the place in the evenings.

“NO OUTSIDERS HERE” BY MANOLIS VAVOULAS WINEMAKER

“How nice that you live here,” the tourists tell us. Of course, they haven’t come in the winter. Spring is the time when everything is sweeter. It’s also the season when the Italians, the British and the Germans – those who have bought houses on “the mythical island of Calypso” – return. At the festivals of the Savior (August 6) and of the Panaghia tou Harou (August 22), we all celebrate together. Here, there are no outsiders. For its size, Lipsi has a good tourist infrastructure. But we’ll never set up umbrellas or sun loungers – you can find shade under the tamarisk trees on our 15 beaches, almost all of which are protected from the northerly meltemi winds. At Platys Gialos, the whole scene almost looks artificial, like a swimming pool – you can be out some 50m from the shore and it’s still shallow; that beach is like our own piece of the Caribbean.

— JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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PATMOS

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Hora and the Monastery of St John.

# #Sacred #StJohn #Apocalypse #WorldHeritage #HoraLabyrinth #Classy #Understated #FineFood #DazzlingBlue

AREA

34 SQ.KM.

POPULATION

3,045

2011 CENSUS

DISTANCE

163

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

HIGHEST PEAK

269m

PROFITIS ILIAS

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“A FANTASY THAT GETS ME THROUGH WINTER” — BY ANTONIA MELIANOU / PHOTOS: PERIKLES MERAKOS

hen I’m in Athens, even just hearing a song on the radio can transport me to Plaki Beach and to my special rock there, the one that seems to float on the sea. That’s where the imaginary tour of my beloved, seahorse-shaped island of Patmos always starts. From there, I’ll fly over the boatyard and head first to Psili Ammos, to build sandcastles and splash in the waves before grabbing something delicious at the only taverna there. Then, I’ll turn inland, over the hills where goats roam free (with stops here and there to take in the view). I’ll head up to see the sunset from Profitis Ilias, on the island’s highest point. When the last trace of color has faded from the sky, I’ll make a beeline for the narrow alleys of Hora, a labyrinth from which no one really wants to escape. I’ll sit for a while in the square, because it’s pretty and it’s peaceful. I can pick up whatever I need at Koukoumavla – a little shop of miracles that has helped bring Hora’s municipal market, closed until recently, back to life. For a drink, I’ll head down to Skala, where at Café Chris, I’ll begin with one of their addictive Mai Tais or something from the extensive wine list, and I’ll watch the boats slip in and out of the harbor. For the best music on the island, I’ll grab a spot at Ariona’s wooden bar. If I want to carry on until morning, I’ll go to Fix or Kasbah. After a short sleep and a quick dip in the refreshing waters of Vagia Beach, I’ll be ready for coffee and a delicious omelet at the café there. If I want to swim somewhere else, I’ll head to Livadi Geranou and cross to the island opposite, the one with the Church of Aghios Georgios, or I’ll go to Grikos Beach and swim to the island of Tragonisi. The visit to Liginou – aka the Didimes

(“twin”) Beaches – always includes a fruit salad from the food stand. I almost feel that I’m part of the family that has been running this humble eatery for years. For a more cosmopolitan environment, I’ll head to Kambos; if you find yourself here, ask for Andreas at the watersports school, who grew up here and who’ll get you waterskiing or wakeboarding in no time. I, on the other hand, will just rent a paddleboat, and visit every beach that can’t be reached on foot. Upon my return, I’ll head straight to George’s Place, where I’ll order a salad or a savory pie together with an ice-cold glass of beer. The evening will find me at Benetos, the restaurant that changed the culinary scene here when it opened more than 20 years ago. I come here not just for the food, but for its wonderful cocktails as well. Shortly before nightfall, I’ll be sitting on a stone bench still warm from the sun, gazing out at the sea with the island’s best dry martini in hand. Unless, of course, I stop by Mostra for Japanese cuisine, or Oklacà for Italian. The Monastery of St John and the Cave of the Apocalypse can always wait until morning. Heading up there never ceases to fill me with an overwhelming sense of awe. After that, I’ll hop on my magic carpet one more time and ask it to take me to Lambi Beach, with its smooth gleaming pebbles – small works of art scattered everywhere – just as I remember it from my childhood. When I’m done with all that, I’ll count every chapel on the island – I was always told there were 365 of them, one for every day of the year. I open my eyes, and I’m back in Athens, just hoping that, once again this summer, I’ll relive everything, right from the start.

* Antonia Melianou grew up in Patmos and left the island to study directing. She now lives in Athens but returns to the island every summer. 208

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01. Psili Ammos is a beautiful beach that can be reached by boat or on foot. 02. A short break on the way to the monastery.

03. Livadi Geranou, on a remote peninsula, is sheltered from the winds and has clear waters and tamarisk trees for shade. 04. The islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spiritual atmosphere is reflected in its low-key nightlife.

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EXPLORE WORLD HERITAGE: Shortly before sunset is the best time to wander through the narrow streets of Hora which, along with the Monastery of Saint John and the Cave of the Apocalypse, have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Built just below and around the fortified monastery, Hora, too, resembles a fortress. Stroll through its maze of alleyways awash in tumbling bougainvillea, admire the dazzling whitewashed houses and mansions, many of which date from the 16th century, and take note of their flat rooftops. They were built this way so as to create an “overhead” transport and communication network, so that vulnerable parts of town could be quickly reinforced. The square houses with thick stone walls were built close together, 210

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especially along the outer perimeter, to form a defensive wall against pirates. In addition, their exteriors were more or less identical; the homes of the rich and the poor were indistinguishable, which meant the former could not be easily targeted. Conclude your walk at the entrance to the monastery, from where you can see the snow-white port town of Skala below in the distance. MUST-READ: Keep an eye out for Footpaths of Patmos, published by Anavasi. Its author, Despoina Vakratsi, presents the best hiking trails on the island, along with a wealth of information about the folklore, culture, history and natural environment of the island.

EXPERIENCE BEST SWIMS: One of the island’s most beautiful beaches is Lambi, in the north of Patmos. It’s famous for its rare, multi-colored pebbles (please refrain from taking any as souvenirs; their number has dwindled alarmingly). Not far from here, you’ll also find the remote Livadi ton Kalogiron, a beach with large

01. At the boatyards in the Netia district of Skala you can see how they build wooden caiques. | 02. A visit to the monastery, with its courtyards, arcades and stairways, makes you feel like you’re in the Middle Ages. Remember to dress modestly and behave respectfully. | 03. A colorful alley in Skala. | 04. Displaying the catch of the day at the taverna on Lambi Beach.

The Apocalypse grotto, where St. John heard the voice of the Lord pronouncing the text of Revelation.

FOCUS

“JERUSALEM OF THE AEGEAN” Patmos is best known for its significance in Christian history. In antiquity, it was sacred to Artemis who, at the moon goddess Selene’s behest, convinced Zeus to raise the island from the ocean floor. Under Rome’s devoutly pagan emperor Domitian (ruled AD 81-96), Christians, including “John of Patmos,” were widely persecuted. Banished from nearby Ephesus, John – traditionally identified in Greek Orthodoxy as Jesus’ apostle, but distinguished by ancient, medieval and modern scholars as someone distinct

from him in writing style and theological approach – came to Patmos (AD 95), settled in a cave, experienced a divine disclosure (“apocalypse”), composed the Book of Revelations and returned to Ephesus (died ca. AD 100). Today, one can still see John’s cave, as well as Byzantine churches and the impressively fortified Monastery of Saint John the Theologian (ca. 1088) which continues to overlook the narrow lanes and charming medieval architecture of Patmos Town. - JOHN LEONARD D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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PLEIADES BAR-RESTAURANT

pebbles. Agriolivado, about 3km north of Skala on the road to Kambos, is one of only very few beaches on the island with sun loungers and umbrellas. It has crystal-clear, bracingly cool waters, sand and an impressive row of trees. On the south coast, a particularly attractive bay with refreshingly cool waters is Grikos. The beach, a mixture of sand and tiny pebbles, is protected from strong winds by the small islet of Tragonisi. To the right of the beach stands the impressive rock known as Petra (or Kalikatsou), connected by a thin strip of land. According to geologists, the bizarre-looking formation with its odd name (a kalikatsou is a jackdaw) was created by volcanic activity millions of years ago. It is believed to emit a special energy, which makes its flat ledges popular spots among yoga practitioners. ART: Patmos attracts and inspires many artists who create fabulous works. Check them out at the galleries in Hora: Kapopoulos Fine Arts (Main Square), Andreas Kalatzis Gallery and Koukoumavla; the last offers a wide variety of particularly tasteful handmade items.

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MOSTRA

TASTE LIQUID GOLD: A visit to the agroecological vineyard Domaine Patoinos (Tel. (+30) 694.581.4398) near Vagia is a must. Try their outstanding wine made from the Assyrtiko variety, with its characteristic golden-yellow color, which leaves a delightful aftertaste of fig and sage, and be sure to buy some excellent Koroneiko olive oil. BEST TABLES: At the Pleiades Bar-Restaurant (Sapsila, Tel. (+30) 22470.330.34) celebrated chef Ettore Botrini curates a Mediterranean menu with many culinary highlights, including shrimp risotto with aromatic herbs and vanilla essence, and the calamari with herbs and tarama (fish roe) cream. Open all day, the establishment serves great pancakes for breakfast and also features a plunge pool with a great view. For a romantic dinner by the sea with Grikos Bay and Tragonisi as a backdrop, look no further than Apocalypsis (Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa, Tel (+30) 22470.328.00). Its creative Greek dishes, including cod fritters with cream potatoes and garlic confit purée and Kos pork with bulgur and crunchy chickpeas, will linger long in your memory. Benetos and Susan

Mathaiou opened Benetos Restaurant (Sapsila, Tel. (+30) 22470.330.89) in 1997, offering home-style hospitality and food. They make their own bread and use the finest local ingredients, including freshly caught fish. Their menu has suprises in store, such as grilled salmon with miso (a Japanese soybean paste) or stuffed zucchini blossoms with turmeric sauce. Their wine list includes a number of different Greek selections, and the cocktails that the experienced Jiannis Melianos mixes are amazing. At Trehantiri in Skala (Tel (+30) 22470.340.80), a well-hidden taverna away from the bustle of the busy port town, you’ll find expertly fried small fresh fish, hand-cut French fries, spiny lobster and slipper lobster (by request), along with other fish caught off nearby islands and islets. THE PLACE TO BE: Named after a small bush that grows on Patmos and housed in a charming 17th-century mansion in Hora, Astivi Bar and Restaurant may just be your best option for a night out. Here you can enjoy fine cocktails, accompanied perhaps by pizza or a pasta dish, and spend your entire evening drinking and socializing. — LINA KAPETANIOU

ARKI

TIGANAKIA BEACH

#PocketParadise #BestByBoat #TiganakiaBeach #InstantFriends

AREA

POPULATION

DISTANCE

SQ.KM.

2011 CENSUS

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

6.7 44

214

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150

HIGHEST PEAK

111m

“JUST A FEW OF US BUT FULL OF LIFE” BY MANOLIS MELIANOS, OWNER OF TRYPAS TAVERNA

PANAGHIA PANTANASSA

The first commercial establishment to open here was a café and grocery called Akteo. It was founded by Theologos Melianos, known to everyone as Bouzouki. But behind every man there is a great woman, and in this case her name was Pandelenia. She did everything, including raise six kids. The youngest of them, known as Trypas, is me. I turned the old café, which is also known as Trypas, into a good taverna with tasty food, lively music and high spirits. All of us here are all pulling in the same direction, and we have a common goal: to keep this beautiful island, with its wonderful residents, alive.

TAVERNA TRYPAS

AUGUSTA PORT

Arki has been a breath of life in the Aegean since ancient times, when the island was called Akritis and Narki. It is a dream island for all those who visit and certainly for us, its few residents, who are akrites (people who live in remote areas) but full of life. The island slumbers for most of the year, but it reawakens every summer, ready again, with its three tavernas and one café, for the season. We have many visitors arriving on private yachts to enjoy our hospitality and our stunning beaches, such as our famous Tiganakia Beach and quiet Limnari Beach.

OUR PICKS THAT SPECIAL MOMENT: Check the calendar for when there’s a full moon. Climb up and away from the port to Panaghia Pantanassa. You won’t need a flashlight; the moonlight will suffice. Take time to admire the view: undulating coastlines, islands that seem to have been shaped by hand, and the sea everywhere, shimmering in the silver light. On a clear night, you’ll see the lights of Samos and Ikaria. The locals like the view, too, but they come in the morning and often climb onto the roof of the church.

BEST SWIMS: Tiganakia, in the southern part of the island, is one of the most famous beaches of the Dodecanese. Close to land, the sea here has a distinctive turquoise color which turns deep blue further out. The best time to go is in the morning, when it’s quiet. Another option is Limnari, a beach about 30 minutes from the port. Careful as you come in and out of the water here – the locals have cleared a path through the rocks so you can walk on silky white sand instead. When the sea is still, this sandy underwater walkway shimmers in the sunlight.

THE PLACE TO BE: Our insider, Manolis, has transformed his taverna into a destination in its own right. Travelers on yachts or day boats come here to eat cuttlefish cooked in wine; baked chickpeas with dill and onions; lamb, braised or with lemon; and fresh local cheeses such as xynomyzithra. Definitely try the salad; a variation on the classic Greek salad, it has slightly saltier sheep’s and goat’s cheese instead of feta. If you’re up for a late night, the taverna turns into a bar, offering all kinds of drinks. — JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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MARATHI

#NoShoes #NoFuss #NoCars #BeachLife #Recharge

AREA

POPULATION

DISTANCE

SQ.KM.

2011 CENSUS

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

0.33 5

216

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150

HIGHEST PEAK

47m

Â© JULIA KLIMI

“MY MOTHER WILL MAKE YOU DINNER” BY TOULA AIMILIANOU, OWNER OF PANTELIS’ TAVERNA

they swim at the only beach or dive off the rocks, they do yoga and they relax in the hammock in the garden. In the evenings, they drink cocktails and listen to music at Luv All Sea Bar, which is right by the shore. Until the end of July, the whole island is almost like a private party. It’s not chaos in August, but the number of tourist boats does increase with the vessels bringing their passengers over for meals. In the evenings, the pace slows down. We haven’t put Wi-Fi in the taverna or in the rooms. Often, when the guests are at dinner, I call out to them, telling them to hurry up and come see the rising moon, and everyone goes down to the small wooden pier for that magical moment.

Two of the five permanent residents of Marathi are my parents. They first came here in 1977 and opened the taverna. At that time, the island resembled a place of exile. We had to bring water in barrels from Arki, and, until 2010, used generators for electricity. Today, there are three houses, about 20 rooms to rent and three good tavernas. In one of these, my mother Katina cooks everything you can imagine, using ingredients from the surrounding islands: Leros, Lipsi, Arki, Makronisi and Samos. She always finds the time to bake bread and to make her jams for our guests. Invariably, they are travelers who love serenity; they want to read, relax and rest.They move around on foot,

MOORING OFFSHORE

OUR PICKS GET AWAY FROM IT ALL: Clothes aren’t really necessary; a swimsuit is all you’ll need. Everything is within a radius of 50 meters. There’s no need to carry cash around either, as you get the bill at the end. Marathi is a destination for those who, rather than exploring new places every day, prefer to enjoy the tranquility of a sandy beach in a sheltered bay. However, a little exploration is possible – you can swim across to the rocky islet of Spalathronisi and take a look around, before making the swim back.

SIMPLE PLEASURES: When the sun sets behind Agrelousa, you really have the sense it is diving into the sea, leaving its red marks on the horizon. Walk up to the little church of Aghios Nikolaos, stand on the white-washed stones of the threshing floor, and connect with nature. Don’t bother taking a mobile phone. If you are more of an evening type, buy a bottle of wine and go to the church around midnight. The “red moons” of Marathi – in other words the full moons – are epic. You think you can touch them.

BETTER THAN HOME: The baked bream prepared by Katina at Pantelis Taverna is in itself a reason to visit Marathi, as is her lobster pasta (it’s a secret recipe), her grilled fish and all the other simple yet exquisite dishes on the menu. Capers from neighboring islets feature in a delicious octopus salad. The greens and most of the vegetables are from their own garden, and they can show you where they collected the leaves to make their dolmades (stuffed vine leaves). For drinks, Luv All Sea Bar is just a few steps away. — JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU D O D E C A N E S E 2 018

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AGATHONISI

AGHIOS GEORGIOS

#LessIsMore #SlowFlow #DoorToShore #Patatado #FreshFish

AREA

POPULATION

DISTANCE

ELEVATION

SQ.KM.

2011 CENSUS

SEA MILES FROM PIRAEUS

DENDRA

13.4 190

218

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161

209m

POROS BAY

“THE SEA IS JUST 10 STEPS AWAY” BY KOSTAS KOTTOROS

AGHIOS PANTELEIMONAS

PRESIDENT OF THE YETOUSA CULTURAL ASSOCIATION

GOATS GRAZING

OUR PICKS BEACH TIME: You can arrange with a fisherman to take you to your own beach in the morning and bring you back in the afternoon. If you’d rather have company, two of the most popular and easily accessible beaches are Aghios Georgios, in the harbor, with small pebbles, and Spilia, west of the harbor, with pebbles and shrubs. Poros and Vathy Pigadi to the east are also very popular. WALK: Take a 15-minute walk from the Church of Aghios Ioannis to that of Aghios Haralambos, from where you can see all the way to Samos, Ikaria and Fourni in the north and to Leros and Kalymnos in the south. EAT AND DRINK: The locals fish, grow fruit and vegetables, raise animals and make cheese (in August, their cheeses sell like crazy). A famous traditional dish is goat patatado (braised meat with potatoes). You’ll find just three tavernas: Giorgos, Glaros and Atsidas serve, among other items, ouzo meze, fresh fish, lamb with lemon, and beef stew. There are three bars (Yetousa, Thalassa, Memento) where people gather for beer, Samos wine and spirits.— ELEFTHERIA ALAVANOU

A few facts about Agathonisi: it has 186 residents, ten of whom are schoolchildren. One young woman has degrees in German and English literature and gives them private lessons. The kids learn both English and German. The oldest inhabitant, Haralambos Kypraios, is 93 years old. A refugee from Asia Minor, he’s a man who has done everything. He used to slaughter 12,000 sheep and goats a year, and send their hides to the tanneries in Samos; he made dermatotyri (cheese preserved in animal hides); and he brought the first motor vehicle to the island in 1970. Now he’s semi-retired, with a grocery store in Megalo Horio. In the Middle Ages, the island was a pirate hideout. It was later abandoned and then reinhabited after the Greek Revolution by livestock breeders from the islands of Patmos and Fourni. Their homes were humble, made with timber salvaged from shipwrecks and covered with earth and seaweed for insulation. Some of these are still standing, but these days, they’re used as animal sheds. For me, the most beautiful season is September, when the winds drop. In July and August, the island receives quite a few tourists – mainly Greeks but also Italians. There are 18 beaches in total; none with facilities, but most of the accommodation is only 5-10 meters from the sea. My favorite is Spilia Beach; it has lentisk trees, shade and is close to the port. A pretty walk is that towards the Church of Aghios Panteleimonas – a 300m stroll from Mikro Horio. From there you can enjoy a perfect view of Megalo Horio and the port.

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