GREECE IS | MYKONOS | 2017 by GREECE IS

greece is experience culture, gastronomy & more

MYK O N O S

FIRST EDITION

ISSN: 2529-041X

2017-2018 ISSUE

22 - 40

41 - 72

73 - 132

W e l c o me

Dis cove r

EX PERIEN CE

133 - 158 Taste

Before you lose yourself in its obvious charms, get to know a little more about Mykonos’ other sides.

Delos, a place of worship, unity and bloodshed; Rineia, Mykonos’ unspoilt ‘back yard’; the unique architecture of one-house villages.

From art-spotting to all-night bar hopping, and from high-end shopping to adrenaline popping, Mykonos has it all.

Mykonos boasts some of the world’s best cuisines, but also a few local delicacies you’ll want to take back home.

WELCOME

| © ILLUSTRATION: KATERINA ALEVIZATOU

Overpopularity a P R E D I C A M E N T m a n y de s tin ati o n s w o u l d en v y

BY N ATA S H A B L AT S I O U D E P U T Y editor , G R E E C E I S

Mykonos was enchanting even to the first tourists to land on its shores in the 1940s, staying with locals in homes that had no electricity or running water. They fell in love with it for Delos, for its light and its beaches, for the beautiful town of Chora and the tolerance of its otherwise conservative and religious society for all things modern – from ladies wearing shorts to gay culture. Since then the island has developed and evolved, gradually becoming unrecognizable to its fans from yesteryear. Today Mykonos suffers from overpopularity. Last year it received a million visitors, but the people who made it known to the world are no longer around. Ari Onassis is not there to slap a fisherman on the shoulder; there is no high-society lady sharing a table with a peasant; Pierro’s, Greece’s first gay-friendly bar, is gone; and Freddie Mercury cannot be seen strolling along the streets. Mykonos today is like being at a fashion show, a catwalk of the world’s best DJs, famous chefs, celebrities and moguls, and an audience fascinated by every little detail: the rarest bottle of champagne that was opened, the most expensive sun lounger, the most exclusive party, the most luxurious yacht to sail into the marina, the most famous star posing in plain sight. The numbers are nothing to sniff at either: luxury villas that cost between €4,000 and 7,000, daily champagne consumption of 300 to 400 bottles and a tweet of the €60,000 bill for a private party in 2016. For Greeks in this time of crisis, Mykonos is a different world. For the world,

Mykonos is another Saint-Tropez and Ibiza. Yet everything the first travelers fell in love with is still there – albeit differently. The homes of Chora are just as charming, even though most have been transformed into shops, and the traditional village now resembles an openair shopping mall. Its famous beaches are being cared for by businesses, and the much-lauded landscape has been largely covered by (more or less) tasteful villas. Whatever tourism has done to the island, however, Mykonos is one of the places everyone must visit. You can’t ignore or reject it. That would be like saying you don’t want to visit Venice because it’s crowded or New York because of the traffic. A stroll in the labyrinth of Chora, the pristine northern beaches and irresistible bathing waters, the round-the-clock entertainment, the luxury and high-caliber services are the perfect recipe for an unforgettable holiday. Behind the scenes of this extravaganza are the hard-working, ambitious, tolerant and insightful Mykonians themselves, who have succeeded in creating a tourism model that’s in high demand. Against the prevailing tide, meanwhile, we are seeing the emergence of a back-to-the-land movement. A new dairy has opened it doors, production of the traditional louza is growing, wines made with native grapes are improving and a local beer is making a debut appearance. Mykonos never runs out of surprises – either for those who love it or those who love to hate it. GREECE IS

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WELCOME

“Aegean Islands, unlike any other!” This is the identity of our islands, the identity of Greece!

B Y G e o r g e H at z i m a r k os R E G I O N A L G ov ernor o f t h e S o u t h A egean

he South Aegean Region, with 60 inhabited islands and some of the strongest brands on the world tourism map, each year receives the lion’s share of tourists to Greece. Comprising a diverse archipelago of destinations of unparalleled beauty and character, the region has something for everyone, meeting visitors’ needs and desires with services of the highest quality. Made up of the islands of the Cyclades and the Dodecanese, the region is one of incomparable natural beauty and diversity. Its islands, so close to one another and yet so different, offer a wealth of experiences and emotions. Islands bathed in light, surrounded by blue, where myths, history and reality co-exist in an impressive mosaic. Their contradictions are their charm. Their distinctiveness is what defines them. It is this distinctiveness that the Southern Aegean Region is promoting worldwide via the strategic tourism development plan that it has devised and is implementing. Additionally, following our selection as a European Region of Gastronomy 2019, the unique flavors and aromas of our food will take center stage in a never-ending banquet, as we share ancient secrets with visitors and fellow diners during a thrilling culinary journey through all the senses. Our nomination is 2

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yet further proof of the region’s uniqueness, yet another invitation for visitors to get to know our islands through their cuisine. Each recipe is much more than a tasty dish; behind each one there is history, traditions, culture – an unbroken thread through time. Gastronomy on our islands is an authentic travel experience. Aegean gastronomy, an integral part of Greek hospitality, connects the modern world with all of the preceding eras – from the Ottoman, Venetian and Frankish times to the Byzantine and Roman empires, to ancient Greece and all the way back to prehistoric times – in a fascinating journey charted by Andrew Dalby in his book Siren Feasts: A History of Food and Gastronomy in Greece. It is a link to the world of antiquity. Indeed, Aegean gastronomy is recognizable in Homeric descriptions of warriors’ banquets, Plato’s Symposium and Hippocrates’ Peri Dietis (On Diet). Fifty different islands with as many sets of local traditions and customs make up the gastronomic culture of the Southern Aegean Region. The Cyclades and the Dodecanese are more than sunshine and magnificent beaches. They are history. They are culture. They are the imprints each island has left on the arc of European and world history.

Comprising a diverse archipelago of destinations of unparalleled beauty and character, the region has something for everyone, meeting visitors’ needs and desires with services of the highest quality.

"Titanic Eye" designed by Maria Kaprili

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Five food and drink options

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Pamper yourself with a sauna before enjoying the spa treatment of your choice, a wonderful answer to an evening (or a whole day) of too much fun. Unique Events

The facilities at Grecotel Mykonos Blu are also available for weddings and other special occasions. CONTACTING DETAILS MYKONOS BLU Psarou, Mykonos, GR-84600 Tel. (+30) 22890.279.00 reservations.mb@grecotel.com mykonosblu.com #grecotelmykonosblu

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CONTENTS Greece Is - MYKONOS, 2017-2018 Issue, First Edition 22. The Basics. Mykonos for Beginners. 38. Meet the Mayor. Konstantinos

82. Chora. It’s much more than an open-

greece is

air shopping mall.

94. Going Out. The coolest choices for

published by

Koukas talks about his island.

Discover 42. Delos. The sacred island. 54. Architecture. Mykonos’ rural

E xe re vnitis - E xplore r S. A .

cocktailing, flirting and partying.

Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos St,

100. Jewelry. Seven millennia of

Athens, 18547, Greece,

jewelry-making have shaped the vision of today’s artists.

Tel. (+30) 210.480.80.00 Fax (+30) 210.480.82.02

homesteads.

108. The Art Fair. A look into the

60. The Age of Tourism. A social

island’s burgeoning art market.

ISSN: 2529-041X

anthropologist’s approach.

120. Shopping. Warning: Mykonos will

editor-in-chief

66. Rineia. Mykonos’ tourist-free

push your retail resolve - and your credit

Giorgos Tsiros (editor@greece-is.com)

satellite island feels like another world.

card limit - to the edge.

Experience 74. The Pelican Brief. You may have

or balance your chakras.

more in common than you think with the bird mascot of Mykonos.

78. Insight. Giorgos Veltsos, one of Greece’s foremost thinkers, writes about his ancestral island.

128. Activities. Get that adrenaline rush

Pelicano 3 © Erik Abel 2015 Acrylic, marker, colored pencil on wood.

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Natassa Bouterakou commercial inquiries

Taste 134. The Hangover Breakfast. It had to be invented on this island.

138. A Taste of Sacrifice. The

Tel. (+30) 210- 48.08.227 Fax (+30) 210-48.08.228 Ε-mails: sales@greece-is.com, emporiko@kathimerini.gr

Mykonian pig-killing feast: its origins and

public relations

its delicacies.

welcome@greece-is.com

142. Counting on Sheep. Kopanisti and

Greece is -Santorini

other island cheeses. ON THE C OVER

commercial director

148. Wine and Beer. Labors of love. 150. Restaurants. A culinary cornucopia.

is a yearly publication, distributed free of charge. It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.

THIS IS WHY YOU’RE HERE White sugar-cube buildings, embellished with colorful doors and window frames, crowd along narrow streets, all the way down to the water’s edge. Squares and courtyards are few and far between; in total, only 10% of Chora hasn’t been built upon. The low stone walls, staircases, whitewashed flagstones and potted plants create the impression that the town is one large outdoor living room where all the action is out in the open. People meet, flirt, shop, eat, drink or simply stare as crowds of fashionistas, partygoers or cruise ship travelers parade through. The way the town is built, however, also offers protection from the strong Etesian wind (“meltemi” in Greek) that can buffet the island mercilessly throughout July and August. In Little Venice (pictured here), with its views of the island’s iconic windmills, you can enjoy one of the world’s most famous sunsets while sipping on cocktails. - N A T A S H A B L A T S I O U

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THE BASICS

Trendy beaches with sophisticated bars and restaurants, thumping music and the scent of suntan oil hanging in the air, or remote stretches of sand where the breeze carries wafts of wild thyme? Mykonos has it all. At the more popular beaches – like Lia, Ornos, Paradise and Super Paradise, Ai Giannis, Aghios Stefanos, Elia, Kalafatis, Kalo Livadi, Paraga, Agrari, Platis Gialos, Aghia Anna and Panormos – don’t expect to grab a sun lounger set without a reservation; prices range from €15 (Sunrise Mykonos at Agrari) to €120 (Nammos at Psarou). Not your thing? Head for the unsullied shores on the east and west sides of the island or on the “wild” north. Fokas and Aghios Sostis are two large golden beaches flanked by rocks; if you forgo a swimsuit, no one will raise an eyebrow. Tigani, Tsagari and Fragia are for the even more adventurous, as access is via dirt roads followed by something of a hike. For sunset swims, head to Kapari or Houlakia. For shade under the trees, go to Meriha and for swimming off rocks, head to Karapeti. Perhaps the least known beach is Loulos, next to the busy Kalo Livadi. - A L E X A N D R A T Z A V E L L A

LIFE’S A BEACH 24

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WHEN THE WILD WIND BLOWS A sudden gust hits the shoreline and beach umbrellas suddenly take to the skies as if wielded by an invisible Mary Poppins, while beach towels become magic flying carpets. When the strong summer “meltemi” winds blow across the Aegean, easing the heat and humidity, you will see why Mykonos is called the “island of the winds.” Most north-facing beaches, such as Fokos and Myrsini, become no-go areas pounded by the surf, with the exception of Korfos, which becomes a kitesurfers’ playground, and of Ftelia, which attracts experienced windsurfers.

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Only a 30-minute boat ride from Mykonos, Delos is at the center of the rough circle (kyklos in Greek) formed by the islands of the central Aegean – a geographical arrangement reflected in the name Cyclades. The mythical birthplace of the deities Apollo and Artemis, Delos flourished between 166 and 69 BC, becoming one of the most important trading centers of antiquity, with a population that reached 30,000 – impressive for a stretch of land only 5k long and 2.3k wide. The island subsequently went into decline and was all but forgotten until 1873, when the archaeological digs by the French Archaeological School triggered intense international interest. Today, Delos is included in UNESCO’s World Heritage List, and is one of Greece’s most important archaeological sites, certain to captivate anyone willing to let their imagination run wild and envisage the city-state that once thrived here. There are no permanent residents on the island, and spending the night is not permitted. The boats that transport visitors typically allow four hours to tour the site. - N A T A S H A B L A T S I O U

1. Eros riding on a dolphin, leading another by the reins; mosaic, House of the Dolphins, Delos (2nd-1st c. BC). 2. Replicas of the late 7th c. BC Naxian marble lions stand guard near the Sacred Lake. The originals are now in the Delos Museum. 3. Shipowners and other visiting dignitaries tour the Sanctuary of Apollo and Artemis in 1962. 4. Aerial view of Delos.

THE SACRED ISLAND 26

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THE BASICS

THE “ACROPOLIS OF MYKONOS” Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful buildings in the world and often referred to as the “Acropolis of Mykonos,” Paraportiani Church is located in the Kastro district, near the edge of the port. Its name is derived from the small side entrance (“para-porta”) of the medieval castle, near which it was built. What sets it apart is that it’s not really one church, but a complex of churches built at different levels over a 400-year period. At the lowest level, which is 1,000 years old, four churches share the same space and are dedicated to the saints Aghioi Anargyroi, Aghios Efstathios, Aghios Sozontas and Aghia Anastasia. The Byzantine Church of Panaghia (the Virgin Mary) was built on the second level and is characterized by its exceptional plasticity, its asymmetry and arched bell tower. Another unique element is that the entryway is at the eastern end of the building, whereas in all other orthodox churches it faces west. - N A T A S H A B L A T S I O U

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INFO The church is only open to the public during the feast days of the saints when a service is held (1/7, 14/8, 17/8, 7/9, 20/9, 1/11, 22/12)

THE BASICS

NEITHER

IBIZA NOR CÔTE

D’AZUR

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In reality, Mykonos is neither the jet-set island where champagne corks pop every second and private helicopters swarm like locusts (see Côte d’Azur) nor an island of pure hedonism where legions of clubbers dance half-naked in a state of ecstasy from morning to the next morning (see Ibiza). It’s true that Mykonos has elements of both, but it also has much more to offer: an early virgin cocktail with Greek fruit while walking barefoot in fine sand, an old-school (i.e. pre-Tinder) style flirtation as you sip an elegant martini, a world-class aperitif in Chora shortly before a fine dinner and hours of dancing – beginning with R&B at 2 in the morning, followed by house music at 4 and Greek folk songs at sunrise. Mykonos is a small place with an enormous range. And that’s what makes it special. Soak it up! - D I M I T R I S T S A K O U M I S B L A T SIOU

THE BASICS

a panigiri, big or small, on the day their namesake is celebrated. On the eve of the saint’s day, the church will be whitewashed, local delicacies will have been prepared and the wine will start to flow. During the summer fairs, rows upon rows of tables are set up in the church courtyards and, depending on the turnout, this makeshift dining room may even spill over into an adjacent field or street. The feast starts after the evening mass and, once the musicians take out their traditional instruments – like the tsabouna (bagpipes) and the toubaki (a drum)

Despite the sweeping societal changes brought about by the island’s frontline position in the Greek tourism boom, the Mykonians continue to cherish their traditions and their communal identity, both of which are indelibly linked to the Christian Orthodox faith. One of the best ways to see how this works is at a church fair, or “panigiri,” which is not just a celebration of an important religious occasion, but also an opportunity to strengthen community spirit and bonds with the past. There are around 600 churches on Mykonos today and each will hold

– and the crowd starts dancing, things usually carry on well into the wee hours. The smaller fairs tend to be more interesting, because they often retain their sense of occasion and modesty, not turning into the drunken party that some of the larger ones can become. Don’t be shy about dropping by. Once you’re there, no one will let you leave before you’re wined and dined. It’s always a good idea to bring a bottle of wine or a dessert to pay your respects to your hosts, but even more importantly, bring a healthy appetite for fun. - E L E F T H E R I A T R A I O U

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panaghia church

vioma estate

aghios sostis beach

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armenistis lighthouse

If your aim is to steer clear of parties, then the best thing to do is to rent a car and visit Mykonos’s hinterland. With few trees, it’s a wild and barren landscape dominated by granite boulders fringed with large prickly pear and dotted with farmsteads and churches. The rocky ground – the reason for the Mykonians’ relative poverty in earlier centuries when wealth was linked to local agricultural production – is, according to one reading, the source of the island’s name. (Etymologically “mykon” derives from a word meaning “a pile of rocks,” while according to Greek mythology, the island was where Herakles buried the last of the remaining giants under huge boulders during the Gigantomachia, the war between the gods and the giants.) Drive to the Armenistis Lighthouse to watch the sunset, or along the roads that lead to the northern side of the island from Myrsini to Merhia, or hike to the peak of Profitis Ilias, the island’s highest point.- N A T A S H A B L A T S I O U

THE BASICS

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Ciné Manto An artists’ hang-out, this spot is a recreational and cultural stop for locals and tourists alike, and a rare splash of green in the heart of Chora. The open-air cinema is a simple pleasure, resistant to the mainstream luxury esthetic that dominates the island. In addition to watching films under the stars, you can also relax in the gardens, taking advantage of the Manto all-day café/ restaurant.

LENA’S HOUSE

Folklore Museum

STEP INTO THE PAST Enter the 19th-century mansion that houses the Aegean Maritime Museum to see models of ships, antique nautical instruments and the mechanism of Armenistis lighthouse, an award-winning innovation at its time that guided ships for almost a century. Right next door is Lena’s House, a reconstruction of a typical Mykonian townhouse. The original owner may have died in 1968, yet as you walk through the rooms you’ll feel that she only just stepped out. Family heirlooms, furniture and everyday items all seem to be left untouched. Lena’s House is an an34

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nex of the Folklore Museum of Mykonos, which is located next door to the famed Paraportiani Church. It is housed in one of the oldest two-story homes on the island, built on the ruins of a Byzantine castle, still visible from the basement. In the museum, you can find exhibits of folk art as well as items brought back by local sailors from their trips around the world. Among the highlights are wonderful 18th-century Venetian screens, 200-plus votive offerings and baptismal pins, and solid gold traditional Mykonian earrings. - A L E X A N D R A T Z AV E L L A

INFO • Lena’s House Enoplon Dinameon, Tria Pigadia, Chora • Open daily 18:30-21:30 • Aegean Maritime Museum Enoplon Dinameon, Tria Pigadia, Chora • Open daily 10:30-13:00 & 18:30-21:00 • Mykonos Folklore Museum Kastro, Paraportiani Sq • Open daily 10:3014:00 & 17:30-20:30, except Sundays

Ciné Manto Limni, Chora • Tel. (+30) 2289.026.165 • www.cinemanto.gr

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TRY IT, IT’S A MUST

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In order to sample Mykonos’ most famous dish, you don’t need to book a table in advance. Mostra is made with rusk and cheese, humble ingredients that speak of leaner times and Mykonos’s poor soil. You can even make it yourself: take a barley rusk, dampen it with a very small amount of water, spread some soft and sharp kopanisti cheese, and add a juicy tomato cut into small or large pieces. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch dry oregano. The tang of the sharp cheese is balanced by the sweetness of the tomato, and the combination is best washed down with a glass of ice-cold ouzo or any other refreshing summer drink. - N A T A S H A B L A T S I O U

welcome

The View from the Mayor’s Office K o n s ta n t i n o s K o u k a s w h o b e c a m e M y k o n o s ’ y o u n g e s t- e v e r m ay o r at t h e a g e o f 3 2 i n 2 0 14 , ta l k s a b o u t t h e i s l a n d a n d t h e c h a l l e n g e s i t f a c e s .

Mykonos is Chora; it is also the island’s hinterland with its “villages” – the independent farmsteads with their unique, simple way of life. Mykonos is energy and light. A tour around the island should include a stroll through Chora, a trip to the hinterland and a stop at Ano Mera. It should also encompass a visit to the renovated Archaeological Museum to see the “Vanity” exhibition, featuring the course of Cycladic jewelry since 5,000 BC. The other museums, the monasteries and the Armenistis lighthouse are all worth visiting, too, and a swim at one or more of the dozens of gorgeous beaches on the island has to be on the program. And, of course, a trip to Delos, one of the most important cultural monuments in the world, is a must. 38

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What keeps us at the top of the list of tourism destinations is the overall experience that we offer: the many different beaches, the traditional architecture, the island of Delos, the positive energy that a visitor feels from the moment they set foot on the island, the luxury accommodation, the high-quality restaurants that make the island an international culinary destination, and the world-famous bars and clubs.

The great challenge this summer is, once again, to be able to offer high-quality services to the millions of visitors who come to the island, and to maintain our position as one of the top international tourisM destinations.

I really can’t stand it when certain behavior on the island – whether it is illicit or not – is blown out of proportion. I appreciate that during periods of crisis, wealth incurs much public opprobrium and, in that regard, Mykonos “sells” as a story. I accept that people have a right to criticize, but let’s also not forget the enormous contribution that Mykonos has made to the country’s international image.

The cost of a holiday on Mykonos is determined by what sort of holiday you want. Accommodations range from low-cost options in the form of hostels or campsites to five-star hotels and super-luxury villas. Similarly, in terms of dining there is everything from fast-food to award-winning restaurants. In addition, airline bookings made well in advance are often discounted, so with a bit of forward planning, anyone can get to our island at a reasonable cost.

Beyond the entertainment side, there is the island’s agricultural aspect, comprising livestock farmers and producers of louza (a local cured meat) and kopanisti (the island’s famous tangy cheese).

I consider one of the island’s most important figures to be Manto Mavrogenous. A Mykonian on her mother’s side, she donated her entire fortune to further the aims of the Greek revolution against Ottoman rule. Indeed, following independence she was bestowed with an honor unique for a woman: the honorary rank of lieutenant general, and she became a symbol of self-sacrifice for the common good. Another, more contemporary figure is the academic Stavros Manesis, a native-born Mykonian, who left an important cultural legacy with his dictionary of the Mykonian dialect. Reading it helps me revive memories and deepen my appreciation for the Mykonian way of thinking.

the mykonian heroine Read the story of Manto Mavrogenous, a groundbreaker of her time. 40

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welcome

Mykonians are hard-working, open-minded and good-hearted. With persistence, personal effort and innate hospitality, they managed to make Mykonos a top destination. They love their land and place great importance on family. Most businesses on the island are family-run and that is something that every visitor appreciates.

The most intimate moments for the locals are the festivals, when every family opens their home, offers local delicacies and celebrates to the sound of the island’s music. It is yet more evidence that Mykonians have great respect for their traditions and that they want to keep them alive.

In winter, the pace of life slows down. There is time to rest and recharge our batteries, but in reality we are also busy preparing for the next tourist season. For us at the municipality in particular, it is our most productive time as in the summer we are rushing about dealing with the endless issues that crop up.

My vision is to see Mykonos become an international reference point as a sustainable tourist destination and serve as a model for growth for the rest of the country. Today, we need to think about not only the present but also the future. Mykonos has to remain on top, without losing its unique identity. Twitter: @KoukasK

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living history From ancient Delos and its sister Rineia to the old way of life and the advent of tourism, learn what shaped this renowned island. «Delos, an island I have never been» by Cacao Rocks, from the exhibition «Les Cyclades électroniques», Dio Horia Gallery, 2016. Acrylic on canvas, detail.

DELOS

The “Visible” Island A contested crossroads of culture, commerce and fluctuating fortunes. By John Leonard

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The original Naxian marble lions (late 7th c. BC) were erected as dedicatory offerings to Apollo and Artemis and can be seen today in the Delos Museum. Their replicas still stand guard near the Sacred Lake.

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ncient Delos seems never to have escaped its geographical destiny as a cultural and commercial crossroads frequently caught up in regional or imperial conflicts. Centrally located amid the Cycladic Islands of the Aegean Sea, Delos (the “Visible” island) was long a place of worship, unity, contention and bloodshed. Birth and death were major issues for Delian residents, as the island was believed to be the birthplace of the god Apollo and his sibling Artemis. Yet mortal childbirth was prohibited on its sacred soil. Pregnant women had to depart to the neighboring island of Rineia before their time of delivery. Ancient life on Delos was vital some two to three thousand years ago – characterized by rituals, festivals, theatrical productions, athletic games and high living in affluent, mosaic-paved houses with colonnaded courtyards. It was also marked, however, by hard labor for the lesser citizens and imported slaves, who performed myriad menial tasks in shops, temples and workshops, loaded and unloaded goods in the busy ports and gen44

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erally made the wheels of daily Delian existence turn. Over its history, Delos witnessed power struggles, repeated invasions and notoriously bloody attacks, as the vulnerable island’s widespread religious, political and commercial reputation often attracted to its shores covetous would-be possessors or marauding pirates from every cardinal point. Island Ghost Town Nowadays, the ruin-strewn islet of Delos is still something of a crossroads, occupied for a few hours each day by multi-national hosts of adventure-seeking tourists. Its sprawling urban landscape represents an extraordinary outdoor museum and one of Greece’s most important archaeological sites. No more the regional power base, Delos now has an enchanting, sometimes eerie tranquility that starkly contrasts with boisterous, all-night Mykonos. Researchers can stay longer on the island, but even their inquisitive presence does little to alter the sense of quietude and abandonment that long ago descended on this seaborne ghost town.

No more the regional power base, Delos now has an enchanting, sometimes eerie tranquility that starkly contrasts with boisterous, all-night Mykonos.

Extensive overview Since 1873, the French School at Athens, in collaboration with the Greek government, has excavated large areas of the island’s port city. Amid the mazelike pattern of deserted dwellings and shops, hundreds, perhaps thousands, of doorways offer glimpses into a past way of life illuminated through the efforts of philologists, historians and archaeologists. These specialists continue to sift through diverse literary testimony, unearth further architectural and artifactual details and even probe the depths of the surrounding sea. For a more complete view of the site, visitors can ascend to the nearby summit of Mt Kynthos. Distinguishable from there are virtually all the various precincts and monuments of the island’s once-thriving community. Beyond, set in the blue expanse of the Mediterranean Sea, are neighboring islands both large and small: Rineia to the west, Tinos to the north, Mykonos to the northeast, and Naxos and Paros to the south. In springtime, Delos is awash in

yellow, red and purple wildflowers. Low-lying ruins near the residential Hill Quarter become weedy, seasonal ponds where frogs can be heard strangely croaking. Broad-leafed fig trees sprout from rain-filled cisterns, courtyard wells, and the narrow, overgrown banks of the Inopos – an ancient stream that still flows stealthily down from Kynthos. In high summer, Delos radiates with light and heat, intensified by a lack of shade, as hardly a single tree can be found anywhere on the site. Visitors are compelled to seek shelter in slivers of shadow beside house walls or, for the better prepared, beneath umbrellas. The Power of Lions Excavators have found some evidence of a Bronze-Age Mycenaean presence (ca. 1,600-1,100 BC) in the main harbor area, but the Delos that is best known today began to emerge largely after 800 BC. The island’s sanctuary soon became a widely recognized headquarters of religious authority, second only to the sanctuary of Apol-

1. The House of the Dolphins was undoubtedly one of the grandest houses on Delos. 2. Mosaic floor depicting Dionysus seated on a panther, from the House of the Masks.

lo at Delphi. As Delos’ powerful neighbors – in particular Naxos, Paros and Athens – sought to exert their authority, various monuments or structures were erected as dedications. The Naxians proclaimed their dominance with a now-iconic row of white marble lions (late 7th c. BC) that stand just west of the Sacred Lake. Within the Apollo sanctuary itself, they also installed a colossal statue of Apollo (590-580 BC); an L-shaped colonnade (stoa) that served to define the sacred space (ca. 550-500 BC); and the Oikos of the Naxians (ca. 575 BC), which may constitute either the first temple to Apollo, a ceremonial dining hall or a storage space for cult equipment and votive offerings. G R E E C E IS

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“You Bore Glorious Children” Mythical Leto, mother to Apollo and Artemis, is celebrated in the Third Homeric Hymn (HH3; early 6th c. BC) that also references several key Delian landmarks: “…Rejoice, blessed Leto, for you bore glorious children…as you rested against the great mass of the Cynthian hill hard by a palm tree by the streams of Inopus....” The palm tree was especially revered in Delos – brought in on the sea-going ships that connected the island to the outside world. Roman visitors, including the orator/statesman Cicero (1st c. BC), could still see “Leto’s palm” standing beside the Sacred Lake. Nowadays, a symbolic palm tree continues to mark the divine twins’ birth-spot, although the adjacent lake was filled in over a century ago as a preventative measure against malaria. Long-Robed Pilgrims A complex infrastructure developed on Delos to accommodate the needs of its many visitors, especially during the Greater (every four years) and Lesser (annual) Delia festivals. The hymn to Apollo states: “…In Delos…the long-robed Ionians gather in your honor with their children and shy wives: with boxing and dancing and song, mindful, they delight you so often as they hold their gathering…” Indicative of these past activities among Delos’ ruins are the foundations of several palaestrae (for wrestling, boxing), a gymnasium (running, other training), a stadium and a theater, all from the 3rd or 2nd c. BC. Of similar date is the Hypostyle Hall (208 BC), northwest of the sanctuary, which may have served as an enormous dining room. A forest of forty-four columns supported the roof over this vast interior space. Near

View of the area around Mt Kynthos, the sacred mountain of Delos.

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the theater, a gigantic cistern with six internal arches was installed for collection of precious drinking water. Swift Ships and Great Wealth Delos’ rise to exceptional economic power and prominence occurred relatively late in its history, sparked by its designation as a free port by the Romans in 167 BC. Prior to this event, Delian prosperity stemmed mainly from cult-related offerings, such as those

1. Partial reconstructions offer visitors a clue to the former egance and grandeur of Delos’ multistoried, colonnaded courtyard houses. 2. A Mykonian laborer poses between two important Roman (1st c. BC) statues, shortly after their discovery in 1894: the “Pseudo-Athlete of Delos” (left) and the “Diadoumenos” (right, a Roman-era copy of a 5th c. BC bronze by Polyclitus). Both are exhibited at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens (Archives of the French School at Athens).

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bestowed by the affluent attendees of festivals. The hymn to Apollo further records: If one “should…come upon the Ionians so met together,…[he] would be pleased in heart gazing at the men and well-girded women with their swift ships and great wealth.” In addition to the Naxians’ lions and colossal Apollo, many other statues on inscribed bases and various votive gifts filled the main sanctuary and lined the approaching Via Sacra. Polykrates, the Samian tyrant, dedicated the entire island of Rineia to Apollo (ca. 530 BC), then confirmed the adjacent islands’ eternal bond by connecting them with a massive iron chain. Purification, Power and Patronage Many objects from Delos have been unearthed on adjacent Rineia. During ritual cleansings of the Apollo sanctuary, the contents of prehistoric graves, discarded offerings and other materials were collected and redeposited in sacred pits across the channel. The Athenian

tyrant Peisistratus conducted the first such purification ca. 540 BC. After the Persian Wars, Athens took over Delos (478 BC), making it the headquarters of the Delian League, then later, under Pericles, controversially removing the League’s treasury and locking it away on the Athenian Acropolis (454 BC). In 426 BC, Athenian authority was again demonstrated when Delos was further ritually purified and all births and deaths on the island were henceforth prohibited. Today, the Delos Museum displays an array of ancient offerings and everyday objects recovered from Delos and Rineia: elegant statuary; finely painted vases; figurines of male and female deities; wall paintings; colorfully tessellated mosaics; and a range of household items, including marble tables and simple cooking equipment. Athenian hegemony over the Aegean waned in the 4th c. BC, as Macedonian power expanded. By the mid-3rd c. BC, Delos came to enjoy a certain independence under the benevolent

eye of Hellenistic kings. During this period, the approach to the sanctuary was enclosed with two colonnades: the South Stoa, built by King Attalos I of Pergamon (post-250 BC), and the Stoa of Philip V of Macedonia (ca. 210 BC). Delos’ pre-Roman population has been estimated at less than 10,000, among which numbered many religious and diplomatic functionaries. Maritime traders would already have been familiar with the island, but commerce was perhaps of lesser importance than its role as a Pan-Hellenic sanctuary and central gathering place, especially for the Ionian peoples of the Aegean islands and western Anatolia.  Fluctuating Fortunes Delian sovereignty abruptly ended in 167 BC, however, with the rise of Roman imperial power in the region. After backing Rome’s opponent, King Perseus of Macedon, and allowing pirates to use Delian ports for attacks on Roman shipping, Delos was seized by

With the Romans striving to quell the maritime power of Rhodes and...having destroyed the port city of Corinth..., the stage was set for Delos to reach new heights of affluence...

Rome and declared a free port, open to all merchants without concern for taxation. With the Romans striving to quell the maritime power of Rhodes and, not unrelatedly, having destroyed the port city of Corinth in 146 BC, the stage was set for Delos to reach new heights of affluence as a major transshipment center. A new class of wealthy Roman elites sought a vast range of products from the East, many of which passed through Delos, including slaves, grain, perfumes, unguents, bronze and mar-

ble statuary, metal wares, culinary specialties, ornate textiles and fabrics and other luxury items. At its peak, Delos would have been truly a splendid sight to behold. In the sanctuary stood three temples and other shrines of Apollo; five treasury buildings to accommodate offerings; the singular Monument of the Bulls that housed a votive trireme; the extensive Stoa of Antigonos; the Ekklesiasterion for the popular assembly; and the Artemision (Temple of Artemis), framed by another L-shaped G R E E C E IS

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stoa. Outside the main precinct were shrines dedicated to Leto, Hera, Zeus, Athena, Herakles, Asclepius and the Twelve Olympian Gods. Foreign deities were also given temples, including those of the Syrian gods and of Egyptian Serapis and Isis – the latter’s elegant facade is now partly reconstructed and has become a prominent landmark distinctly visible from a distance. Colonnaded stoas, warehouses and marketplaces were common features of the port area, where the Roman geographer Strabo (early 1st c. AD) claimed the number of slaves traded every day reached as high as 10,000. The multi-ethnic merchants of Delos tended to frequent separate, club-like market halls and cultural/commercial centers, as attested by the Agora of the Delians (4th c. BC, early 2nd c. BC); the Koinon of the Poseidoniasts of Berytos, for merchants and ship owners from Beirut (ca. 110 BC); and the Agora of the Italians (ca. 110 BC). Perhaps most evocative of Delian life in late Hellenistic and Roman times are the well-to-do villas and other private houses that offer a sense of the diverse tastes and habits of the people who once resided there. The Delians’ cosmopolitan character and facility with foreign languages were subjects of ancient literary note: “The girls of Delos, hand-maidens of the Far-shooter… 50

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sing… of men and women of past days… They can imitate the tongues of all men…; each would say that he himself were singing, so close to truth is their sweet song” (HH3). Delos’ newfound prosperity ended up being short-lived, however, as the island once again picked the wrong side in a conflict (this time Rome), when the Mithridatic Wars broke out between Rome and Pontus. Beginning with a massacre of 20,000 inhabitants by King Mithridates’ forces in 88 BC, the island was subjected to two decades of repeated assaults. After a final destructive attack by Cilician pirates (69 BC), life on Delos began to wither away. By the 2nd c. AD, the Greek traveler Pausanias described the island as virtually abandoned: “…Delos, once the common market of Greece, has no Delian inhabitant, but only the men sent by the Athenians to guard the sanctuary.” He later laments in his guidebook that once-great Orchomenos “…was fated to fall almost as low as…Delos.” From the heights of its former vital role in ancient Greco-Roman life and thinking, Delos became in medieval and early modern times the desolate haunt of crusaders, pirates, and eventually antiquarians. Today, its lanes and squares once more echo with the multi-lingual parlance of visitors hailing from near and far.

The tall, reconstructed facade of the temple of the Egyptian gods Serapis and Isis stands high on the slope overlooking the ancient town of Delos.

Delos Tours Boats to Delos depart from the Old Port daily: Mon 10:00 & 17:00, Tue - Sun 9:00, 10:00, 11:30 & 17:00. Return journey ticket costs €20 • Tel. (+30) 2289.023.051 • Entrance to the archaeological site and museum costs €12 • Tel. (+30) 2289.022.259 • Tip: You can reach the point of departure with a boat, which connects the New Port with the Old Port (ticket costs €2)

MUST-SEE The Archaeological Museum of Delos is a must-see for visitors, where one finds displayed an array of ancient offerings and personal possessions: elegant statuary, finely painted vases, figurines of gods and goddesses, as well as intriguing household items including wall paintings, mosaic floors, marble tables, and simple cooking equipment.

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D.I.Y. Delos e x p l o r e t h e h i g h l i g h t s o f t h e s a c r e d i s l e b y f o l l o w i n g TH i s w e l l- d e s i g n e d r o u t e

6 The Minoan Fountain, l

the port of Delos was the landing point for pilgrims, traders and slaves. Today, it welcomes visitors to what is a stunning open-air museum on the site of one of the ancient world’s most sacred spots.

a freshwater well inside an impressive structure, was a public water source.

2 The French Archaeologil

8 The Archaeological Museum of Delos was built in 1903, making it one of the oldest museums in the Cyclades. It holds many of the invaluable treasures discovered here.

cal School of Athens has been at work here since 1873 and maintains a small library for visiting antiquity scholars.

7 The Stoibadeion, a shrine l dedicated to Dionysos, was at the center of many of the island’s theater festivals.

and the Portico of Attalos I, King of Pergamon.

ater could hold up to 5,000 people.

12 The Marketplace of the l

16 The House of the Masks has been partly restored and offers visitors a more complete look into what life here was like in the distant past.

Competaliasts, a 1st c. BC square used by the island’s trade unions, is further evidence that society on Delos was made up of a number of merchant associations.

9 The three main temples dedicated to Apollo, the remains of which stand at the center of his sanctuary, brought thousands of pilgrims to this spot.

3 A number of the statuary lions of Delos, given to the island by the Naxians in the 7th c. BC, are missing, plundered over the years or otherwise lost. Those that remain, however, are perhaps the most recognizable sight on the island.

5 The Agora of the Italians l

was one of the largest agoras on the island; in ancient times, it was surrounded by shops.

the wife of Dioskouridis, a man of high standing in Delos around 137 BC; statues of the two of them (replicas) stand at the building’s entrance, still welcoming modern-day visitors. The originals are to be seen in the Museum of Delos.

4 The Sacred Lake is the l

legendary birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Although it was drained in 1929 to prevent the spread of malaria, there is a circular wall that marks where it used to be.

13 The House of Cleopatra, l

17 In the House of the Dolphins, a mosaic depicting the Phoenician goddess Tanit indicates that Delos also functioned as a meeting-place of cultures and beliefs.

10 The Temple of Artemis, dedicated to the twin sister of Apollo, was another important place of worship on Delos.

14 The House of Dionysos bears this name because of a stunning mosaic discovered here (there is a replica in place now, but the original is nearby in the museum) that depicts the god of wine and theater.

11 Many different regional powers erected structures on Delos in exhibitions of wealth and power. Near the Propylaea, built by the Athenians, visitors can also see the Portico of Philip V of Macedon

15 Theater was an importl

ant part of the cultural life of the island. The ancient the-

18 From the Sanctuary of the Egyptian and Syrian Gods, the view is magnificent, and impresses on the viewer the scale of the ancient settlement. At its height, Delos’ permanent population was far greater than that of present-day Mykonos.

1 Over the centuries, l

by A l e x a n d r a A n g e l e ta k i , M A i n C l a s s i ca l A r c h a e o l o gy

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One-house villages Mykonosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s humble rural farmsteads, which inspired modern architecture with their simplicity and the wisdom of their design, are resisting the overpowering force of tourism development. BY N ata s h a B l at s i o u

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ly refer to as “little village” is not what the rest of the world describes as a settlement, but is, rather, a small universe created by rural families so they could live their lives with complete autonomy. This “little village” is invariably built on the best spot of the family’s land, high up near a rock or hunkered down close to the land or in a garden, facing south so it gets good light and is sheltered from the strong northern winds. The most important feature is placed right at the front of the main house:

the courtyard. This is the main living area, where people spend most of their free time eating, sleeping and chatting away. The interior areas are cut off from each other and all their doors – the bedroom’s, the kitchen’s, the bakery’s and the barn’s – lead out into the courtyard. The courtyard floor, comprising whatever material the ground consists of, and the bedrooms’, also made of natural materials like dirt, rock and lime, follow the natural contours of the ground. There is nothing more invigorating than

The single-roomed farmhouses of Mykonos once accommodated the lives of entire families.

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hen French architect and modernist pioneer Le Corbusier visited Mykonos in 1939, he remarked: “whatever architecture had to say, it is said here.” Would he say the same today if he were to visit? If he drove out into the countryside and searched frantically among the newly built villas and luxury hotels? If he tried, then yes, perhaps he would still discern the typical Mykonian village through all the visual noise. At that point, some local would tell him that what they fond-

emerging from the dusky interior, with its small slit windows, into the bright sunlight of the yard. The simplicity of these “villages” mirrors the traditional way of life, as all a family’s day-to-day needs are accommodated in one space. The sleeping area is elevated on a wooden platform so that you feel safe in the embrace of the structure, a departure from the conventional layout of a bed and two night tables. In the winter, food is served at the table in front of the sofa facing the entrance and the small windows, lending even more importance to the view outside. The dimensions are tight or, rather, just right to accommodate all the necessities. Wall niches are used to store food and utensils, while a shelf is placed above the door to keep bread and barley rusks. At 3

the same time, however, these are modern spaces made with expediency and wisdom, and when the family’s needs grow, so too does the farmstead, with the addition of more rooms, as necessity dictates, also around the courtyard. There was a time when this farmstead was everything for the Mykonians. Rural families – the men, women and children – had to work tirelessly in their fields just to survive. Sunday was their only break, when they’d travel to Chora to go to church and buy whatever they couldn’t grow or make themselves. Each home was named after the family who lived there and, oddly enough, structure and people came to resemble each other. The tourism boom, however, radically altered not just how these rural families lived but also the entire look of 4

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1. Elements of the landscape would be incorporated into the structures. A boulder becomes part of an exterior wall. 2. Now in their 80s, Apostolis and his wife Maryo insist on their traditional way of life. 3. The shelves and storage spaces were always recessed into the walls of the houses. 4. Maryo is pictured in the farmstead’s original room, to which newer rooms were added. The couple continues to live in this part of the building.

Renowned Greek designer Minas renovated two century-old farmsteads and added additional elements, while maintaining the architectural style of the traditional builders.

the island, and these “villages” – if not modernized, abandoned or demolished – became all but engulfed in the frenzy of new construction. It is easy to just pass them by. A few dozen locals continue to live in their ancestral homes though these are mainly elderly residents who insist on the traditional way of life and a handful of younger folk who have modernized their family homesteads and use them as holiday homes. The expression “I’m going to my village” has acquired a more abstract notion and means “I’m going to my ancestral home,” stressing the bond with family roots and the land rather than the type of dwelling. The significance of the “village” has without doubt been downgraded in recent decades. The fields were turned into plots and luxury accommodation. Settlements sprang up along the coast and all sorts of buildings were erected haphazardly, in a way that does not suit the landscape. New buildings tend to be designed in the style perceived as “traditional” Cycladic architecture, and, while they may look pretty, they do not account for the island’s natural characteristics and serve abstract notions, such as comfort, luxury and view. 58

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There are very few architects today who draw on the extensive knowledge, knowhow and vernacular of the traditional craftsmen who built the “villages.” Apostolos Nazos is one of them. “There has been a lot of debate in recent years regarding man’s relationship to the built environment, how he perceives his needs and how these are translated into the building and the environment. How do you make a modern man live in a village? How does one sit on a stone wall? How does one sleep on a platform, touching the wall on one side? How do you dispense with the night tables and closet? How do you get a bathroom into every room when this is an area that belongs outside the house?” asks the architect. “Back in the day, activity took place outside in the courtyard, in the field, on the land – without lights, without changes to the layout, without new materials, without smart houses and without the internet,” he says. “For all these unanswered questions, the ‘village’ reminds us of the need for the existence of the outdoors and the need for creating space that allows you to see the place in which you live.”

The expression “I’m going to my village” has acquired a more abstract notion and means “I’m going to my ancestral home,” stressing the bond with family roots and the land rather than the type of dwelling.

* Special thanks to Mykonian architect Apostolos Nazos for his expertise and help.

Â© BENAKI MUSEUM PHOTO ARCHIVE

insight

The Age of Tourism A billionaire rubbing shoulders with a fisherman, a desirable young bride flirting with a local charmer; it was the abolition of social conventions that opened Mykonos to the world. BY Despina Nazou

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Young people partying on Paradise Beach. (Left) Voula Papaioannou, one of Greece’s foremost 20th century photographers, is reknowned for the way she captured life in the country during more innocent times. Her images of Mykonos depict the island before it was forever changed by mass tourism.

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| © GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

Fredys Dactylidis, the founder of the legendary Paradise Beach, helped shape Mykonos’ image as a tourist destination, injecting it with a free-spirited vibe when he created the first campsite and official nudist beach. Here he is seen happily posing with two tourists in 1999.

ykonos is an exceptional case not only in the Aegean but the Mediterranean in general: an archetypal cosmopolitan island of dreams, desire and hedonism, and at the same time a perfect example of tourism-led development, where a subsistence agrarian economy has evolved into a service-oriented one, driven by innovative business practices. The island has around 11,000 permanent inhabitants and can support up to 10 times that number in the summer months. As a tourist destination it now possesses an unmistakable identity, which is still evolving. The media, celebrity and “anonymous” visitors, along with the first local entrepreneurs, have been crucial contributors to this identity, which began to form in the 1930s, when the first tourists arrived on Mykonos. genealogy of the tourist industry Mykonos was always open-minded, as is evident from the multiple references to the island made by early travelers from mainland Europe and voyagers on the Grand Tour, from the 11th to the 20th centuries. Long before the island became part of the global tourism network, it was already part of the exten-

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sive maritime and trade networks of the Mediterranean. It sent many an emigrant to Athens and the United States, and also welcomed exiles in the interwar period. The spark that ignited the tourist trade in the 1930s was the international interest stirred up by the archaeological site on Delos. This was the period when an educated elite of artists, architects and wealthy urbanites “discovered” the island and started giving Mykonos its global character. By the 1950s and 1960s, Mykonos was already enjoying a reputation worldwide, independent of Delos. The “authenticity” of its Cycladic landscape, the hospitality of the locals and admiration for the vernacular architecture, all came together to form the nucleus of an idea around which the island’s identity as a hot destination was developed. Reading the accounts of many visitors of the time and paging through contemporaneous publications, it is clear that the encounter with the otherness of the place and its inhabitants was part and parcel of a visit to postwar Mykonos. For many visitors, the island played host to all kinds of unions and syncretisms. Unions with the Cycladic spirit, with the “divine”

Jackie Kennedy’s visit to Mykonos in 1961 launched its reputation into the stratosphere and was thus instrumental in turning the island into a magnet for the jet set.

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Glimpses of the cultural codes of an older, agrarian world, the evidence of which you’ll find in local island groups, nicknames, religious ceremonies and feasts, can still be seen at times.

element of Delos and Mykonos, were part of a metaphysical appreciation of the place. Unions that were based on a feeling of conviviality bringing together visitors and locals, celebrities and mere mortals. Many postcards from the 1960s and 1970s record this type of melding. Celebrities, tycoons and politicians arm in arm with fishermen in celebration; resident self-taught artists hanging out with their more famous colleagues; beauties and debutantes seated with local boys; youthful groups of western Europeans, Americans and Greeks full of the holiday spirit, sitting at cafés or strolling down the streets of Chora, singing alongside local revelers. Mykonos had already become what anthropologists call a liminal space, a place of freedom where the rules of everyday life are suspended, a paradise for tourists looking for a break from their western, work-centered routines, and others who simply wanted to continue their bohemian, hippy lifestyle on their holidays. The island tolerated the unconventional, and this is one of the reasons why it quickly became a magnet for the gay community. The addition of basic hospitality services provided an opportunity for fertile cultural exchanges. In the beginning, these services were offered on an ad hoc basis, as there was no proper tourist accommodation and many locals rented out rooms in their fami64

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ly homes to visitors. This is how many friendships – and romances – were born. From that point on, Mykonos became a place of tolerance and exploration. The unconventional and the carnivalesque remain some of its main attractions. In the years that followed, the island opened up even further, offering the combined sale and consumption of “nature” – sun, sea and picturesque Aegean scenery – as well as a playground for the fashionable and wealthy. The many nightclubs, restaurants and designer clothing boutiques painted a picture of Mykonos as a place dealing in style, fashion, images and fantasy. In the time it took for Mykonos to become a world-renowned destination, the local population faced radical change in their daily lives. Large expanses of land changed hands and became commercialized, losing their agricultural character to serve the development plans of local and foreign entrepreneurs. A class of elites began to emerge, altering the political and social balance on the island. The businessmen, both local and foreign, created their own socioeconomic group and by driving development, were central to the new balances that emerged. In more recent times, the tourism-driven employment market has brought women to the fore as dynamic forces in their own right, with their own financial resources and greater professional freedom. This in turn broadened local attitudes, creating new notions of what is acceptable and permissible. Cosmopolitanism and identity Despite the problems created by intensive development, Mykonos is still considered a symbol of cosmopolitanism, a “Manhattan of the Aegean.” After the mass arrival of Greek tourists in previous years, the island is now a top destination for Chinese, Russian and Arab visitors. At the same time, Mykonos is inhabited by people who experience the island in different ways, such as those who work in the tourist industry, seasonal and not, including

many economic migrants from eastern Europe, Albania, India and Pakistan. Another cultural group are the various foreigners, primarily Europeans and Americans, who have started businesses, bought homes and land, and live on the island year-round. Among the population groups that share the island are also Greeks from different parts of the country who view it as a place to make a living or find success during the economic crisis. Today, we can say that Mykonos is define more by cosmopolitan traits than its traditional values and stereotypical notions of local culture. Still, glimpses of the cultural codes of an older, agrarian world, evidence of which you’ll find in local island groups, nicknames, religious ceremonies and feasts, can still be seen at times. Meanwhile, issues of collective memory and indigenous symbols are becoming the focus of the many cultural associations on the island trying to redefine local identity in the midst of a shifting social landscape.

* Despina Nazou is a social anthropologist. She is an affiliated lecturer at the University of the Aegean and a postdoctoral researcher at the University of Crete

Bibliography Bousiou, Polianthi. “The nomads of

Mykonos: Consuming discourses of otherness in a polysemic tourist space.” PhD thesis, London School of Economics and Political Science, 1998. Κremmidas, Vasilis. “Commercial practices at the end of the Ottoman domination: Mykonian merchants and shipowners.” Athens, 1993 (in Greek). Loukissas, P.J. “Tourism and environment in conflict: the case of the Greek island of Mykonos.” In “Tourism and Economic Change: Studies in Third World Societies,” Vol. 6. Williamsburg, 1978. Nazou, Despina. “Critical issues on managing the cultural otherness in tourism: the formation of Mykonos island as a ‘cosmopolitan’ and ‘tourist’ place.” Paper presented to the 6th Critical Tourism Studies Conference, Croatia, 2015. Scott, Margaret A. “Property, labor and household economy: The transition to tourism in Mykonos, Greece.” Journal of Modern Greek Studies 3/2 (1985): 187–206.

Once a cemetery for ancient Delos, Rineia today could be described as the final resting place for a different way of life: new buildings, vehicles and tourism are all forbidden by law.

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RINEIA

Sanctuary of a Bygone Era Mykonians may have no qualms about developing every centimeter of their island for tourism, but there is one place some still hold sacred. BY N ATA S H A B L AT S I O U

P H O T OS P E R I K L E S M E R A K O S

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espite his age, his body is straight as an arrow and his hand, as he clasps it around my arm to help me into the boat, is strong as a vise. His face is toughened from a life of working outdoors, but, at the same time, it’s youthful and wrinkle-free, belying his 85 years. With his eyes fixed on the sea, he takes a pack of pungent Greek cigarettes from his coat pocket and lights up. Twice a week Lefteris Syrianos, a third-generation farmer, continues to make the trip from his house in the hinterland of Mykonos to his birthplace, the islet of Rineia. He has a hut there and some land, where he grows barley for his sheep and vegetables for his children and grandchildren. He also grazes his animals there in the summer, when Mykonos is so full of tourists even the sheep have nowhere to go. Rineia is located six nautical miles from the new port, and it takes us about 25 minutes of fair weather cruising to reach Kasari, one of the island’s two harbors. The voidadiko – as the locals call these boats, because they use them not just to transport people but also animals (“voidi” being the Greek word for cattle) – is tied up and the passengers stream out onto the beach to head up to their huts. There are no streets here, just a few dirt roads widened from old2

1. Lefteris Syrianos, 85, is a third-generation shepherd and farmer, born and raised in this house. Today he maintains it as a second home where he stays when tending to his animals and vegetable garden. 2, 3 & 6. The single-room rural dwellings are well designed for temporary stays and are updated every so often with fresh amenities and comforts. 4. Thodoris Syrianos clears a field of daisies in order to plant his summer crop of fruits and vegetables. 5. Mykonos’ dairies and many private households produce the famous local “xinotyro” cheese.

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There is little to interrupt the gaze across the unbuilt landscape.

er footpaths, so there are no cars either. Large deliveries are made by tractor or donkey. The passengers have about four hours to take care of whatever business they have on Rineia if they want to catch the boat back to Mykonos. I practically pant after Lefteris as he strides up the craggy path between blossoming fields. I stop for a minute to look back at Mykonos, caught in the chokehold of unfettered construction. But Lefteris has pushed on ahead, and so I turn my back on development and re-enter the time capsule that is Rineia. There is little to interrupt the gaze on this unbuilt landscape; I can see the contours of every hill, and the aroma of wildflowers and wild herbs is enough to take my breath away. After a half-hour trek, we reach Lefteris’ family fields. He fills the food trough, makes a quick inspection of the property, does a headcount of his flock and then invites me into his abode. Built of stone, it shows its age but also the care it has received from its owner. There’s a dovecote beside it, a chicken coop further up and a tiny chapel dedicated to Aghios Nicholas. Lefteris makes coffee and we sit on the chapel steps to drink it.

“Big Delos,” as the locals call Rineia, is four times the size of the sacred island and separated from it by a small strait. It consists of two islets joined by a narrow strip of land in the middle. Like Delos, Rineia is a protected archaeological site, but it has not been excavated as systematically. Delos and Rineia came under the jurisdiction of the Municipality of Mykonos in 1844, and limited grazing and farming are allowed on both. There is, however, a plethora of testimony indicating that the Mykonians made use of the islands for at least two centuries before that. “The land here is fertile and the soil retains moisture longer,” confirms Lefteris. The island’s oldest living resident, he tells me about when his family lived here all year round, about how he and his 10 siblings were all born here, how there was no school for them to attend and how, later, he sent his own children to live on their own in Mykonos, with his wife making the trip over twice a week (weather permitting) to cook and clean for them. He returns to the present. There are currently 80 Mykonians living on Rineia on a part-time basis, renting land for a small fee from the Municipality and using it to grow fruit and

“If Rineia becomes a tourist island, it will kill the last vestiges of Mykonos’ farming tradition. We won’t have a single spot left. Mykonos has run out of space.”

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The transportation of people, animals, goods and tools to and from Mykonos is done via the so-called voidadiko (cattle-ship).

Livestock farmer Spyros Santorinaios is adamant that the island must not lose its rural character.

vegetables, and to graze their animals. The population of livestock on the island consists of 5,000 ewes and of course, of the lambs they produce. There was a time when these small farms and grazing pastures were a family’s only source of income or food; today they are more of a money-saving measure. Only a handful of Rineia’s “residents” make their livelihood there, yet even those whose main job is related to tourism continue to spend time on their land – a form of relaxation, but also a way to honor family tradition. Many have modernized their stone huts to create more comfortable living quarters, and here and there photovoltaic technology has replaced gas-powered generators. “My mother and father didn’t mind having the odd mouse or lizard in the house, but today we have doors that we keep shut,” says Lefteris. He goes on to tell me about Mykonos Farmers, the new dairy farm his son, Giorgos Syrianos, has established (see p. 142). Everyone is hoping that this business will be the key to

building a bridge between tourism and the primary sector. We talk to another Giorgos Syrianos, the representative of Rineia’s livestock farmers, about the next big challenge for the Mykonians: to maintain a bond with the land, to keep something for themselves rather than selling off every last plot for tourism development. This is why the Delians (as the other Mykonians refer to the farmers on Rineia) don’t like to advertise their island. Located such a short distance from Mykonos, they fear that Rineia will one day become an extension of its larger neighbor. “If this becomes a tourist island,” Giorgos says, “it will kill the last vestiges of Mykonos’ farming tradition. We won’t have a single spot left. Mykonos has run out of room.” We get back into the caique, together with around 30 sheep (on their final journey to the slaughterhouse), and set out for Mykonos, leaving Rineia’s unspoiled landscape in peace and quiet, where it belongs.

Special thanks to Despina Nazou and the valuable information provided for this article by her doctoral thesis, The Multiple Personalities and Their Re-enactment at a Tourist Island of the Cyclades: ‘Entrepreneurship’ and ‘Locality’ (University of the Aegean)

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MYK O N O S

two worlds When you’re done with the boutiques, galleries, jewelry stores and all-night parties, take a look at the other side of Chora and explore the hinterland. Artwork by Richard James North «Panigyri by Windmill». Acrylic on wood, 2015.

ICON

THE PELICAN BRIEF A wounded bird adopted by a local in the mid-1950s, Petros the Pelican generated unexpectedly substantial income for his adopted home of Mykonos, of which he was – and still is, through his successors – the beloved mascot.

o be brutally honest, that bird kind of freaks me out. I type the words at my own peril, as I could be risking banishment from my beloved island for putting such sacrilege down in print. However, truth be told, when our paths cross in the port area, I try my best to avoid Petros, the Pelican of Mykonos. Or rather, one of the island’s pelicans, as there are now more than one. Petros, the wounded pelican that was rescued and adopted by a Mykonian fisherman in 1958 was, indeed, a lovely, fascinating creature. His survival is proof of the tenderness that lies beneath the rugged exterior of the islanders. Petros had an extremely interesting personality. He settled on the island. He made friends. Not metaphorically. I mean he really made friends, going with his buddies for a stroll, sitting down with them for some seafood meze, while his human mates enjoyed their wine, tsipouro or a heavily sweetened cup of Greek coffee at the kafeneio. The locals treated him pretty much as a fellow citizen, albeit one too lazy to work for a living. Petros was spoiled rotten by the delicious fish, fresh from the early-morning catch at the port, that he received as a treat from nearly everyone. In the end, as the island gained destination-glamor status of unimaginable proportions, Petros the Pelican managed to generate substantial income for his adopted home. By charming locals and tourists alike – posing patiently for a “click”

alongside kings, hippies and jetsetters – the tireless and docile bird was soon promoted to island mascot. Pictures, sketches and portraits of him by local artists made their way onto postcards, souvenirs, t-shirts, coffee mugs, cigarette lighters, hotel and restaurant brands and so on. Not bad turnover for a freeloader. Historically Mykonians relied heavily on livestock, but were never culturally inclined towards keeping animals as pets. However, their adoration for Petros was undeniable. One fine morning, the still young and restless bird decided to fly and visit the nearby island of Tinos. The residents there considered the visit as voluntary migration and decided to keep him. Petros’ alleged entrapment in Tinos was the first (and last) court case in Greece where the custody of a bird was disputed: the avian equivalent of the abduction of Helen of Troy. When the authorities decided in their favor and the captive pelican was returned to them, the Mykonians threw a welcome party with music, dancing and a public feast. Even the solemn Orthodox and Catholic priests (both denominations are present on the island) literally chimed in, festively ringing the bells of all the churches in town. Petros died in 1985. There is a lot of folklore surrounding the circumstances of his demise, but the only sure thing is that it came at the end of a very long and prosperous pelican life (he was around 30 years old). His death did not leave Myko-

One of the many reincarnations of the feathered King of Mykonos, posing in full glory.

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B Y R i k a Z . Vay i a n n i

fun fact The original Petros is embalmed and exhibited in Mykonos Μuseum. Τhe live birds, when not strutting around the main port promenade, usually hang out by Nikos’ Taverna, in the Porta area, near Little Venice.

The original Petros plays with a cat, under the watchful eye of Thodoris Kiradonis, the fisherman who, according to legend, rescued him and brought him to Mykonos.

nos pelican-less. There was already a female, shipped from Florida at the zenith of his glory to keep him company, sent as a gift by Jackie Kennedy Onassis, who had also fallen under the bird’s spell. In addition, the Hamburg Zoo is said to have provided a pelican, who became known as Petros II. This pelican was very good at his job as successor and achieved stardom status so quickly, that an official stand-in, Dimos, had to be recruited for special occasions and tours abroad. At some point, there were three or more Petros the Pelicans roaming the streets of Chora – not all of them male, but then, who notices such things in Mykonos? Pelicans are not indigenous to this part of the Aegean and the original feathered “King of Mykonos” bore no natural children, despite wholehearted matchmaking efforts with two different females. His first mate died, and the second candidate, Irini, was an ill-fated match for him: Petros refused to mate with her, despite the long years they spent together as the sole male and female pelicans on Mykonos. And enough with the “Gay Petros” theory – the joke is so old, nobody laughs anymore. The birds that followed Petros I and 76

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II all had different personalities. Too shy, or too over-demanding, one or two of them were even accused of having exhibited downright sociopathic tendencies at times. Pelicans are big creatures – strong, smart and fast – and the power of their angry beak when they panic is not to be taken lightly. The Cycladic island is not their natural habitat and, were it not for the steady import of new birds, the Mykonos pelicans would have gone dodo on us a long time ago. On an even darker note, this forever young, forever vibrant, octopus-eating, Petros-like undead creature which has outlived all the people that originally loved and raised him, is not a concept I like, especially during a serious hangover, when I end up portside for an omelet and a hair of the dog. On the other hand, can you blame the birds? The serene, sparsely inhabited fishermen’s island that took in the original Petros in the mid-1950s was a very different place to the glamorously crowded, music-pumping, traffic-congested destination that is the Mykonos of today. So, when I say that the modern-day pelicans creep me out, I guess I mean exactly the opposite: it is the birds that, naturally, are upset with

me. Or the hundreds of thousands of visitors flooding a place that is not even their natural habitat, either. After too many summers to count spent on the island (a few of my own feathers now ruffled with age), I have come to a deeper understanding of why Petros managed to rise to such mythical status, reaching a point where he effectively overshadowed many of the impressive local symbols, such as the marble lions of Delos and the whitewashed, stone-carved churches. At one stage, he almost competed in worldwide recognition with the perennial landmarks of the island, the windmills. My theory is that Petros arrived in Mykonos at a very young age. He was lost and he was found. He was wounded and healed. He came to call “home” a poor, unknown barren island, far away from his birthplace. He made friends with the humblest of the humble locals and was petted by Brigitte Bardot and the Persian Queen Soraya. He chose his partners, who were not necessarily the ones that nature, or society, dictated. He got in some serious trouble and got away by the skin of his beak. He ate the best food a pelican (or a human) could ever dream of. He was an anomaly, a stranger, a welcome misfit. The island shaped him into a very different pelican than the one he would have been had he been rescued by someone else, somewhere else. Petros lived the perfect Mykonian adventure: this unique essence of “anything is possible” that still hangs in the island air, still waves elusively from somewhere around the next bend and still rises with every full moon in August. Petros the Pelican had the time of his life in Mykonos. For life.

“I know the route the sun takes, as seen from the veranda of my house in Finikia.”

INSIGHT

“Light, Angelic and Black” One of Greece’s foremost thinkers, writes about his ancestral island. B Y p r o f G i o r g o s V e lt s o s

’m not sure whether I’m capable of writing again about Mykonos. Can that light really be written? Can the rapid development of the island be described? My decision to agree to write this short piece presupposes, of course, the reader’s willingness to read it. But to what sort of reader am I addressing myself? Does that recipient really exist? Of a text about light? In a piece I wrote for the newspaper “Ta Nea” in July, 1996, I described a contradiction, an impossiblity: that I was born on Mykonos, though also not born there. That, in other words, I was reborn on Mykonos, born for the second time, and that I continue to be reborn every time I find myself in the village of Finikia, standing before my mother’s house. The same Finikia I have “sung” – to quote the great Greek poet Kostis Palamas – in my long poem “Shadow” (Ikaros and Indiktos Publications), but also in my new poetic collection “August” (Agra Publications). Finikia is, then, my “passport” for this island which is different, and yet the same. I know the

route the sun takes, as seen from the veranda of that house. Its journey traces an arc from right to left along the horizon line. It begins on July 21 from the promontory of Tinos and on the shortest day of the winter it sets over Diles (Rineia), then starts heading back the other way. That regression of the sun describes my bifurcated, oscillating feelings about the island. On the one hand, admiration. On the other, disgust. In 1996, I wrote that I had written off people from Mykonos, as they had written me off, too, when they saw me hurrying by on the beach of Gialos and confused me with the Veltsos from television. Twenty years later, they no longer confuse me with anything. Because this sort of confusion can no longer take place. Which is to say, we no longer combine or associate people, things, feelings, or memories, unless they have been given some monetary price. In this sense, the Mykonos of 2017 is more a sort of artificial paradise, without memory or history. This, however, is also the secret of the island’s overdevelopGREECE IS

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“On Mykonos I see the light as painted in a watercolor by Antonis Polykandriotis, rather than the light of an actual sunset.”

ment. This is what has made Mykonos a principality almost independent from the rest of the country. A non-place with no experience of the crisis and the struggles between rich and poor, simply because on Mykonos there is no abject poverty. And yet if one observes this strange society, one discovers a phenomenon of cultural universalism and capitalism that transforms social relationships, at least as described in the sociology I know. Mykonos could be an example for Baudrillard: the ecstasy of communication, which is to say no communication at all, or a standing outside of communication. The ecstasy of tenderness, therefore no tenderness. The ecstasy of solidarity (omertà), therefore no solidarity (snitching). In this context, the good intentions of many people from Mykonos isn’t enough to make the island remind us of what it used to be. And the worst of all? To know what’s in store. For the time being, the 10,000 daily tourists from the cruise ships, added to the 40,000 tourists who rent rooms on any given day, create a host of problems which authorities on the island regard with awe. I know a lot about people from Mykonos. Good things and bad. I even know things they can’t imagine I’m aware of. Well, and what of it? On Mykonos everyone knows everything. Both the transgressions and violations of building regulations and the exploitation of seasonal workers. In this sense, speaking ironically, one could say that on Mykonos one finds a trans-

parent society, as clear as the waters of Psarou, before Nammos opened. Before, that is, the Chris-Craft propellers and the jet ski turbines stirred up the sands from the deep and muddied the waters. That’s why the light doesn’t recognize us. All this “transparency” has turned the light black, in living color in the smartphone photographs which tourists get printed at Photo Quick in Pano Matogiannia. On Mykonos, something astounding happens to me. I see the light as painted in a watercolor by Antonis Polykandriotis, rather than the light of an actual sunset. In other words, I too employ an artificial Mykonos – created this time through art – to support the few hopes still left to me. I hope to see the light of the sunset over Syros as I sit in the semi-circle of the ancient theater of Delos, which urgently needs to be restored, and host a performance of “The Suppliants,” suppliants among whom I would include myself. But, as I said, if Mykonos is a non-place, then the foreigner ceases to be a foreigner. I am constantly reminded of something Maurice Blanchot wrote: “I nearly lost my sight, because someone crushed glass in my eyes.” I also consider a phrase from Paul Valery’s “Monsieur Teste,” in Titos Patrikios’s translation: “This arithmetic saves me from the shock that I am growing old.” I’ve already grown old. And there, on the turn for Maouna, in Aghios Loukas, I will be turned to stone, if I get my wish.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Giorgos Veltsos is a professor emeritus of Panteion University and a longtime collaborator with the Lambrakis Press Group, with whom he began working in 1975. He is a playwright whose plays have been performed at the National Theater of Greece, the National Theater of Northern Greece and elsewhere. He has published close to 50 books of essays, poetry and plays. Recently Perispomeni Publications released a second volume of his collected poems, while Agra Publications has also released his collection of poems titled “August”. His book of poems, “Skia” (Shadow), has been translated into English by the noted literary translator David Connolly. He is a Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters, and of the Order of the Phoenix.

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CHORA

The Contradictory Capital A postmodern open-air shopping mall with jaw-dropping architecture, Chora satisfies the most pretentious shopaholic and preserves the lifestyle of its remaining residents. BY N ATA S H A B L AT S I O U

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chora

tubbornly, I clear my mind of the image of the island parading across the lists of the best party destinations in the world and instead embark on my trip to Mykonos guided by modernist architect Aris Konstantinidis’ (1913-1993) book, “Two Villages from Mykonos.” Throughout his career, this profound thinker focused on the essential element of architecture: the relationship between the building and its surroundings. With this in mind, I approach Mykonos with some trepidation, but even though intense residential development has compromised in places the natural contours of the landscape, I can still see traces of the island he describes: “Stones that were so bright from afar, and that you thought were strewn here by the Great Maker of the world, prove from up close to be nothing more than loving, small and innocent buildings, the work of man in the zeal of his daily toil.” It is such “small and innocent buildings” that make up Chora, the capital of the island. Built along the coast in order to facilitate maritime commerce, Chora is sheltered by two small hills, one topped by the castle and the other by the island’s iconic windmills. As is the case in all the capital towns on Cycladic islands, the charming architectural composition of houses arranged along narrow maze-like streets is an invitation to any explorer. The difference is that here, instead of wandering along quiet cobbled alleys admiring the shadows cast by the harsh island light, or enjoying the dramatic views as you would in any other Cycladic castle-town, you find yourself in the middle of an open-air shopping mall of chic boutiques, trendy galleries and pricy jewelers. Many of the big fashion houses are here: Hermes, Dolce&Gabbana, Ferragamo, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chanel,

Beginning at 9 in the morning, fishermen show off their catch in Gialos.

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Getting away from the most famous shop-lined streets, one encounters slices of regular life in more tucked-away parts of the main town.

Dior... I can almost hear my credit card sighing in my purse. I resist all temptation until I am drawn, as if by a magnetic force, to a pair of children’s shoes in a shop window. More artwork than footwear, they cost three times more than I would usually consider spending. My resolve crumbles as my cosmopolitan surroundings convince me that I, too, can be part of the elite that makes such a purchase without blinking. I’m not even sure if I’m buying the right size. I snap out of this shopping trance as I trip on my way out of the shop, catching my foot on its entrance step. I look down and see a beautifully crafted slab of marble, a fine piece created by some anonymous local artisan. I look back, and this time I’m noticing the wonderful building that houses the store. The red shutters and window frames, the wooden door, the stone staircase leading to the upper floor indicate that this was once someone’s home. The changing room was probably the area where the family gathered for 86

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lunch. In the adjacent building, now a bar, I imagine a child’s bedroom in one corner and, through the front window of the jewelry store two doors over, I can see the housewife who, half a century ago, stood patiently scrubbing her laundry right where the display cases are now. I silence the little voice telling me to shop on and I start walking, this time to get a proper look at Chora, an architectural wonder that prompted Le Corbusier to claim during one of his trips to Greece that: “Unless you have seen the houses of Mykonos, you cannot pretend to be an architect.” There is little doubt that this is among the most impressive towns in the Aegean, with its two-story houses and their simple yet elegant external staircases, the cascades of bougainvillea and pots of geraniums adding yet more color in the bright light, all while basil discreetly perfumes the air. The simplicity of the white walls give them an almost plastic quality, a softness that creates a

sense of interminable movement. I duck into alleys looking for snapshots of daily life: a bustling home, a family out shopping, two children playing. It’s not as easy as I think, as the crazy number of shops means that the only spaces left for residents to congregate are a few public squares and church courtyards. I recall a phrase by Mykonian writer Melpo Axioti, an early 20th century intellectual force, and I get goosebumps remembering her prophetic words: “The island’s soul tries to burrow into an ever-condensed space, constantly being frightened off with the threat of death... and everything, but everything, is for sale.” If you want to know how many shops open in Chora every year, just count the number of deaths, a local tells me cynically: an older person dies, a house is closed down, a shop opens – that’s the cycle of life here. There’s no denying that it’s a challenge to maintain a home in Chora. The money being offered for rent or pur-

Sights such as this wedding photoshoot are taken in stride in Chora.

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Chora never sleeps. Galleries and famous fashion houses, restaurants and tavernas, bars and clubs will satisfy your every desire around the clock.

This beautiful neoclassical home in Matogiannia is still being enjoyed by its owner, although he has received no shortage of offers from entrepreneurs looking to exploit it commercially.

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The biggest parties may have moved to the island’s beaches, but in Chora you’ll still find plenty of places to dance the night away. Moni Club is one of the trendiest.

chase of property from businesses eyeing a piece of the tourism pie – which last year brought in estimated revenues of €13 billion throughout Greece (with Mykonos being one of its main money-making machines) – is hard to resist. Another problem is that the significant rise in the standard of living brought about by this tourism has prompted many Mykonians to built bigger, more comfortable homes with more amenities out in the countryside, usually on a family-owned plot of land, so there’s no incentive for them to continue living in Chora. I wander around the neighborhood of Lakka, away from the high street, and it dawns on me from an examination of the laundry hanging out from the window and balconies – always a good indication of people’s backgrounds, economic status and habits –

that many of the residents of Chora are not locals, but migrant workers, both permanent and seasonal, feeding the voracious tourism machine. I finally come across some locals hanging out at Giora’s Bakery. This establishment is a living monument, active since the 17th century, right below the windmills on the hill that once supplied flour to the islanders and to passing ships. Today, it continues to bake traditional bread for residents who will invariably stop for a chat. It is also a favorite among tourists looking for an authentic experience. The baker’s wife, Chloe Papaioannou, tells me that they only started offering coffee when tourism started to pick up, and that they also serve local delicacies like soumada (orgeat syrup), almond cakes and other products from small-scale local producers. Not a Mykonian herself, Chloe

I duck into alleys looking for snapshots of daily life: a bustling home, a family out shopping, children playing. It’s not as easy as I think, as the crazy number of shops means that the only spaces left for residents to congregate are a few public squares and church courtyards.

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describes how she came to fall in love with the island back in its last throes of innocence. “It was the summer of 1989, and I came in on the afternoon ferry. I sat down on some stairs waiting to meet a person about a job, and I promptly fell asleep. When I woke up, there was a small tray next to me: on it was a Greek coffee, a small plate of fruit preserve and a glass of water. An old lady dressed in black was sitting beside me, watching over my bags.” “What about now?” I ask her. “Could such a thing still happen?” She just shrugs. I follow the locals to their next stop, the small market they call Banga just before the Town Hall (easy to spot thanks to its distinctive red-tile roof) in Gialos, where fishermen sell the catch of the day on marble benches and about a dozen farmers display fresh produce: bright red tomatoes, cucumbers, fragrant melons and juicy watermelons; whatever they can get to grow on this arid, rocky island. The farmers, too, are struggling to resist the siren song of tourism development. Their fields, they explain, are worth so much more as residential or commercial property, and who wants the toil of farm life when you can have money in the bank instead? Across the street, the café-ouzeri Bakogia is like a vortex that has successfully obliterated all traces of modern Mykonos: the lounge sofas, the for-

Giora’s bakery in the Lakka neighborhood dates to the 17th century and produces sourdough bread and barley rusks. Coffee is also served.

With its view of the windmills - Mykonos’ most iconic sight, Little Venice is the number one spot for cocktails while watching the sun go down.

eign hors d’oeuvres, the sun loungers that evoke fancy hotels and the sexy beauties swaying their bikini-clad bodies to the latest beats, they’re all conspicuous by their absence. I sit for a proper ouzo and nibble on mostra (rye rusks sprinkled with olive oil and topped with diced tomatoes and fresh, white kopanisti cheese). When winter comes and the island’s streets start to empty, this little café will still be open for the handful of Mykonians who live here all year round, another point of resistance against the transformation of Chora into a residential ghost town ripe for commercial exploitation. It is getting on towards late afternoon when I return to the center of the town, this time more confident about exploring its unnamed alleys. In Matogiannia, I peek through the open window of a neoclassical residence. Though somewhat incongruous amid the vernacular architecture, its beautifully adorned ceilings and period furnish92

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ings impress me, as does the owners’ apparent ability to put up with the noise and foot traffic all summer long. I stroll past the only oasis of green in the town, the open-air cinema Cine Manto, and stop at Lena’s House, a small museum, to learn more about the island’s folk traditions and about the local women who played such pivotal roles in island history. Foremost among them is Manto Mavrogenous, a woman who roused her fellow islanders to fight during the Greek War of Independence and sacrificed her fortune to fund the war effort. The Aegean Maritime Museum is located right next door; a lighthouse from 1890 stands in its courtyard. As dusk descends, the streets have become so crowded that I feel as though I’m standing in a supermarket checkout line at closing time. I look for a way out of the throng, but I’m completely disoriented. Where’s the sea? Every 10 meters or so, I stop and ask the way to Little Venice. As I finally reach the

shore, the strong meltemi wind blows everything away and clears my head. I sit down at Caprice and look across at the row of captain’s houses that feature on so many postcards and in so many articles on Mykonos. Straight ahead, there’s the vastness of the sea. The sun is starting to set, but the island is not about to slow its tempo just because it’s getting dark. Quite the opposite; the music gets louder as I dive back into the river of humanity looking for that tiny part of Mykonos that corresponds to me. I embrace the “Manhattan of the Aegean,” ready to burn the midnight oil with this insomniac town, keeping it company through the night. When the last night owls stumble out of the bars at dawn and I head for my bed, the shops will be opening their doors again, welcoming the early birds from the latest cruise ships to arrive – but sleepless Mykonos will not have had a moment to catch its breath.

Â© JOHNNY PANOPOULOS

CAVO PARADISO

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GOING OUT

Dusk Till Dawn, Till Dusk AGAIN Start early, party late or do both? Be in the know about where to go with this exclusive listing of the coolest choices for cocktailing, flirting and partying. By Dimitris Tsakoumis

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(Kind of) early birds do cocktails at the beach The hour of the cocktail (which could be anything from a vitamin-packed juice to a fine alcoholic beverage) can or, rather, must start early on Mykonos’ beaches – usually sometime after a late breakfast. Daytime drinks slowly give way to a warm sunset party mood, with a barefoot, deeply tanned crowd getting happy and wild. So, skip the lazy lounging by your hotel pool and plan ahead: a sun-lounger reservation is absolutely necessary. Nammos There are many reasons why Condé Nast Traveler ranked this venue at the top of its 2017 Gold List of beach clubs. From the huge designer loungers (which are, admittedly, packed too 96

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closely together) and the luxury shopping, to the excellent service and the great sushi that is served in response to a mere nod of the head, Nammos is an experience in luxury. Come late afternoon, the music gets louder and turns to ethnic dance beats, enticing the international loud crowd to get its tabletop groove on (an almost daily custom), popping the bubbly as though it were soda. A bucket-list experience, it’s fun to do it once if you can afford it… • Psarou

Beach • www.nammos.gr • Tel. (+30) 2289.022.440

Alemagou This is a more boho-chic option, where brine-kissed kitesurfers do battle with the waves and wind. While the beach may not be the best on the island, the loungers and cushions are far enough from each other to give the sophisticated celebrity crowd

a relaxed sense of privacy, and the cocktails (and food) are amazing. The music is eclectic dance, and the young men and women you’ll find here are probably the most beautiful and fit you’ll ever see. Ask about the beach parties, which are organized quite frequently and start just before sunset. •

Ftelia Beach • www.alemagou.gr (+30) 2289.071.339

• Tel.

now. Come early (getting in becomes harder as the day wears on), enjoy a swim and get a couple of special drinks in while watching the red sun go down from your lounger. Hang around to join the other swimsuit-clad revelers at the almost-nightly parties, where even the most reserved patrons let their hair down and dance. • Paraga

Beach

• www.scorpiosmykonos.com

Scorpios Built on a low-lying hill that rolls down to a private beach, Scorpios is an enormous establishment with luxurious bohemian décor that opened two years ago. A breath of fresh air, it takes a modern approach to all-day entertainment, with handpicked upand-coming DJs (or artists, according to the venue’s website) who alternate at the decks day and night to give guests some of the most exciting music in the world right

• Tel.

(+30) 2289.029.250

Jackie O’ Beach The party starts early at the island’s most gay-friendly beach club. This, however, is not just another loud dance venue playing pop hits (though it does this too), as Jackie O’ Beach is a well-designed combo of gourmet restaurant, designer boutique and huge pool with loungers at the aptly named Super Paradise Beach. There is, of course, a big cocktail

Belvedere Hotel

bar too, to help you find your own groove. This is Mykonos, after all.

• Chora •

• Super

Belvedere Hotel What is possibly the most happening pool in Mykonos – where those publicity-shy guests who didn’t opt for the privacy of their villas can be seen sunning the day away – opens its doors to nonguests in the early evening, so dress up for a one-of-akind early drinks experience before going on to a fabulous dinner at the Matsuhisa by Nobu sushi restaurant right next door. The Belvedere Bar serves seven signature cocktails by famed bartender Dale DeGroff, while award-winning Greek mixologist Christos Chouseas prepares Belvedere’s version of the Mai Tai and the Negroni at the tiny (six seats only) Sunken Watermelon Bar, located poolside.

Paradise Beach

• www.jackieobeach.com • Tel.

(+30) 2289.077.298

Hoteling by the pool You may not be staying in these hotels, but that’s no reason to miss out on their sophisticated vibe. Cavo Tagoo Hotel With the sun beds located literally inside the pool (on wooden platforms) and the most gorgeous view of the sun setting over the Aegean, the pool bar at this deluxe hotel (within walking distance from Chora) is as relaxing as relaxing can be – though you may be in for a surprise if the VIP guests decide to start dancing, as they often do. Make sure to book your spot well in advance as seating is limited.

• Tel.

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www.cavotagoo.com (+30) 2289.020.100

Chora • www.belvederehotel.com (+30) 2289.025.122

•Tel.

Little Venice sunset exclusive When you leave the beach before sunset, the customary thing to do is head to the pretty district of Little Venice. Stay away from the tourist traps and choose your own place to chill. Scarpa This is the only place Mykonos’ Greek connoisseurs favor if they happen to be in Chora at dusk. Its spectacular fruit cocktails, like the Bahama Mama, are great through to the early hours when Scarpa transforms into the smallest wild dance club you’ve ever been to. • Little • Tel.

Venice, Chora (+30) 2289.023.294

Cocktails to dine for Whether you’re out for an great evening meal or an

after-dinner drink at the bar, a night at any of these places will most likey be one to remember. Ling Ling The long and narrow bar at this Asian-fusion cocktail-restaurant (a sibling of Hakkasan, the famed London establishment) is possibly the best spot on the entire island for beautiful people-watching and sexy socializing. To top it all off, the Hakkatini signature cocktail is nothing short of perfection! • Chora • www.hakkasan.com/lingling •

Tel. (+30) 2289.022.515

Interni One of the island’s oldest hot spots, with an eminently elegant, all-white internal courtyard, Interni would not enjoy such an enduring reputation were it not for the ultra-chic bar right in the middle of its expensive restaurant.

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• www.interni-restaurant.gr • Tel.

(+30) 2289.026.333

Remezzo This fine dining restaurant boasts the best view of the old harbor of Chora and its sparkling waters, mirroring the night sky. Right across the way from the entrance, Remezzaki, a small open-air cocktail bar, is just the thing for the first round of drinks. • Old

Harbor

• www.remezzo-mykonos.com • Tel.

ting warming up until well past midnight.

(+30) 2289.025.700

Astra A timeless bar with standout décor and a logo created by internationally acclaimed Greek jewelry designer Minas, Astra is a constant for Mykonos regulars, though the patrons of its two most exclusive tables – to the left and right of the entrance – tend to change depending on global stock and oil prices. Dance music goes on till the wee hours. • Tria

Early drinks served late After a full day at the beach, the recommended thing to do is take a nap before heading out for drinks and dinner – so don’t expect the bars to start get98

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Pigadia, Chora www.astra-mykonos.com • Tel. (+30) 2289.024.767 •

the after-hours clubs

dressed in designer monks’ habits and an incredibly snooty atmosphere. It’s unlikely you’ll be let in without a reservation. • Chora • • Tel.

www.monimykonos.com (+30) 6932.830.252

Void Last year’s hottest new arrival made heads turn with its impressive décor and over-ambitious intentions, but the very high prices for tables and simple drinks have resulted in a jam-packed VIP section and little if any action in the vast main area. If this is fixed this summer, then we may be looking at one of the greatest exclusive dance clubs in Europe. • Lakka,

Moni Packed with atmosphere and attitude, Moni is named after the Greek word for monastery and features servers

• Tel.

Chora • FB: voidmykonos (+30) 6944.811.360

Guzel Located in Gialos – Chora’s old harbor – this place can be

lots of fun, especially if you started with the drinks early. Expect to be crushed between hot-blooded 20-somethings grinding to R&B and pop hits – something that can be good, but also very, very bad. • Gialos,

Chora FB: GuzelMykonosClub • Tel. (+30) 6944.231.999 •

Cavo Paradiso Don’t even bother setting out for this king-sized dance club before 4 am, as that’s more or less when the international guest DJ stars start hitting the decks. Mykonos’ answer to Ibiza clubbing has one huge advantage: the beautiful dawn at Paradise Beach. Take your sunglasses; you’ll need them. • Paradise

Beach

• www.cavoparadiso.gr • Tel.

(+30) 6948.504.989

advertorial

P os t M od e r n M y ko n ia n L u x u r y My Mykonos Hotel is a brand new arrival on the island, ready to impress even the most sophisticated traveler with its modern design and boho-chic luxury. The perfect place for heavenly vacations just a few steps away from the busy town center, My Mykonos also features an enchanting restaurant, set by the stunning pool, which offers a menu to delight the most refined of palates. For its all-day fine-dining experience, the restaurant brings together excellence in presentation and the best of locally-sourced ingredients. The talented chefs design and produce their own delicious version of Mediterranean cuisine, with inspired dishes such as risotto with beetroot and roasted feta cheese or seabream with quinoa and fresh coriander. Enjoy the lazy vibe and lounge pool ambience the day, and the upbeat party mood in the evenings.

• Tel.

INFO: My Mykonos Hotel, Chontros Gremos, PC 84600 Mykonos, Greece (+30) 22890.235.21 • Fax. (+30) 22890.785.02 • E-mail: info@mymykonoshotel.com

JEWELRY

Priceless Legacy Seven millennia of jewelry-making on the island have shaped the vision of today’s artists and design houses. B Y K e l ly S ta v r o p o u l o u

Necklace of gold beads. One bead in the form of a pomegranate. Naxos. 1400-1100 BC.

after being ceded to Athens by the Roman Senate, was the region’s first free-trade port, and that the richest merchants and bankers based themselves here. This explains why Delos and the nearby islet of Rineia revealed precious and imaginatively constructed jewels of antiquity. Traveling through the centuries, we reach the Byzantine era, when jewelry was made of bone and ivory, or gold and precious stones, and vanity reached a new level, providing ample evidence of the eternal human desire to self-adorn, attract, charm and impress. “The choice of theme and the

he exhibition “Vanity: Stories of Jewelry in the Cyclades,” organized by the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades and running since last year at Mykonos Archaeological Museum, tells the 7,000-year history of this region’s relationship with jewelry, but with a special focus on the island of Mykonos. The exhibition begins with the Neolithic period, when the inhabitants of Ftelia adorned themselves with necklaces, beads and bracelets made from natural materials like stones, pebbles and seashells. Later, you learn that Delos,

Â© GIORGOS SFAKIANAKIS

A glimpse into the Vanity exhibition, hosted by the Mykonos Archaeological Museum until September 2017.

JEWELRY

perspective we adopted on jewelry was dictated by our intention to connect the exhibition to the contemporary world,” says Dimitris Athanasoulis, director of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades. “We wanted to introduce a leitmotif that runs through the different historical eras and yet is still present. We wanted to shed light on the ageless objects of beauty, in such a way as to make them accessible and familiar to the visitor.” The final section of “Vanity” features contemporary creations specially commissioned for the exhibition to top Greek designers: Deux Hommes, Elena Syraka, Ileana Makri, Ioanna Souflia, Lito, Minas, Nikos Koulis, Sofia Vamiali, Sophia Kokosalaki, Two Is Company, Venyx by Eugenie Niarchos and Yannis Sergakis. A special place is accorded to the Mykonian jeweler Sofia Thanopoulou-Maroulina (19081997), a prominent figure in the history of jewelry design. Entirely self-taught, she managed to

expertly combine inexpensive components such as shells and beads with more valuable material such as gold and pearls. Experts see in her work an aesthetic that draws on both ancient tragedy and the modernist movement, inspired by the art of Nikos Engonopoulos, Alekos Fasianos, Yannis Tsarouchis and Salvador Dali. Her shop Maroulina’s in Chora counted Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn and Melina Mercouri among its clients; they showcased her creations around the world. For 25 years, she was an island figurehead and a symbol of postwar optimism. Today, the tradition of jewelry-making serves a larger marketplace, but tourists in the streets of Chora continue to seek out, just as earlier travelers did, the glitter of gold interpreted through the special gaze of Greek creators and expressed in their jewelry. The truth is that, here on Mykonos, shoppers in search of shining beauty are spoiled for choice.

“Cyclades” gold ring by Sofia Vamiali.

Tourists in the streets of Chora continue to seek out, just as earlier travelers did, the glitter of gold interpreted through the special gaze of Greek creators and expressed in their jewelry.

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Ilias Lalaounis Greek elegance Established in 1969 by Greek jewelry pioneer Ilias Lalaounis (1920-2013), this house is famous for its mythology-inspired designs and applies jewelry-making techniques devised in ancient Greece. The result is a collection of hammered gold necklaces, bracelets and earrings, some decorated with precious stones, that creates a new “Hellenistic” style. The Lalaounis Boutique was the first luxury jewelry store to open in Matogiannia back in 1968, and it remains ageless. Jackie Onassis was a regular customer, as were many royals. “I believe that we have also contributed to the popularization of ‘Greekness,’” says Aikaterini Lalaouni, the eldest of the founder’s four daughters. “Mykonos is a place that has given us a lot, most of all inspiration, through the traditions of Cycladic art and the simplicity of its architecture.” 14, N. Polykandrioti, Chora • Tel. (+30) 2289.022.444

THE SHINIEST OF ALL T H E B I G NA M E S O F C ON T E M P O R A R Y J E W E L R Y ON M Y K ONOS

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Minas liquid shapes Many think that this renowned designer is himself a Mykonian as, over the last three decades, he has forged clear connections to the island, not only by designing the famous Astra bar and several private residences, but also through his obvious love for the place. He came here in 1969, chasing romance. “I forgot the woman in question, but Mykonos stayed with me. It became my home,” says Minas. If a visitor asks the locals where to buy Greek jewelry, they will inevitably be sent to his store, a simple building with red windows that stands opposite the Church of Aghia Kyriaki. The 79-year old designer has done away with stones, as he believes that they weigh too heavily on his designs, and has chosen flowing shapes without sharp angles, which resemble poured liquid. Here, shoppers will find thick silver bracelets, pendants hanging from black leather cords, a nautical collection featuring anchors, and men’s jewelry inspired by functional objects such as screwdrivers, magnets and corkscrews. “Mykonos inspires me and I inspire her. I love her because she is beautiful and free. Look at her,” he says, his voice full of affection. This year, on the invitation of the municipality of Mykonos, he designed and dedicated a bench and a streetlight which were installed in Gialos and which bear his signature. “This place can’t have ugly benches, garbage cans or public toilets. They are not in its nature,” he argues.

Keith Richards’ iconic skull ring (left) was designed by Minas.

Aghia Kiriaki sq. Chora • Tel. (+30) 2289.027.320

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JEWELRY

Nikos Koulis The crown prince Nikos Koulis’ jewelry draws inspiration from the Art Deco movement. His creations combine strong geometric motifs with the use of precious stones. Emeralds, rubies and different colored diamonds are combined and frequently framed in a black enamel setting – a linear minimalist element which the designer uses to break up the richness of his creations. Within a decade, he has managed to win a large clientele and has become known internationally. He opened his first boutique on Kalogera Street, in a former cellar with typical local elements: arched windows, an old wooden door, large flagstones from the nearby island of Rineia and a marble display table that brings to mind an ancient altar on Delos. “We wanted to create an ascetic aesthetic with strong references to Cycladic tradition,” he says. “The setting of the store redefines the customer’s relationship to jewelry, combining respect and accessibility.” 35, N. Kalogera, Chora • Tel. (+30) 2289.028.688

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Fotis Poniros Gems for island hoppers Fotis Poniros presents a more classic approach to jewelry, and welcomes to his store Greek and foreign visitors in search of necklaces, charm bracelets and rings with precious stones. A highlight of his collection is the Aegean Star line, featuring the famous windmills of Little Venice, rendered in 18k gold with white or colored diamonds. “Everyone wants a windmill to symbolize their very own Mykonos,” he says with a smile. Aghia Anna, Chora • Tel. (+30) 2289.078.545

Kessaris Jewels and spirits It’s hard to speak about jewelry in Mykonos without mentioning the Kessaris name. The jewelry shop which represents imported name-brands and attracts its own glamorous crowd has been based for 20 years in the famous 1970s bar Vegera. It has succeeded in becoming a hangout that’s packed both day and night. The few tables by the entrance, located at a key spot on the Chora promenade, are perhaps the most sought-after on the island. While sipping your drink, you can watch famous clients picking out a designer watch or a stunning jewel. “I opened a store in Mykonos because I wanted to give my customers the opportunity to continue enjoying our service on their vacation,” recounts owner Kostas Kessaris. “As this used to be a bar, I was at first accused of depriving the regulars of their hangout. So I decided to offer two in one: drinks and jewels!” This spontaneous and paradoxical combination is totally in keeping with a place where both tradition and innovation are held in high regard. This flexible philosophy, in turn, opens new paths for enjoyment, excess and, at the end of the day, glittering memories. 58, Mat. Andronikou, Chora • Τel. (+30) 2289.022.880

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ART

the Art Fair Mykonosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; art market is burgeoning, thanks to a Greek and foreign community of globe-trotting high-rollers. B Y K e l ly S ta v r o p o u l o u

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he easiest way to get a taste of the contemporary art scene of London or New York is to catch a ferry to Mykonos â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or so a number of Athenian art lovers jokingly claim. There is some truth to this, especially if you consider that the alleys of Chora are packed with galleries, some of which are internationally renowned. Collectors from Greece and abroad come back here every summer, and they always find something worth buying. Notable artists and gallery owners choose

over the world. For the art crowd, there’s nothing strange about all this: art knows no borders, after all. You can enjoy it both in big cities and in small towns. And you’re bound to find it in a famous, cosmopolitan destination that has always been known for its free spirit – and for the deep pockets of many of its visitors. After all, at the end of the day, why shouldn’t you be able to admire a Julian Opie in your flip-flops, your toes still sandy from the beach?

to maintain permanent spaces here, while artists who have graced the likes of New York’s Guggenheim Museum and MoMA consider it an honor to showcase their work in Mykonos. Others, meanwhile, come to pay their respects to the nearby sacred island of Delos and to draw inspiration from its light. Each year, massive sums change hands on the island’s art market – and a great deal is also spent on the safe transportation of the artworks, which arrive at the port of Mykonos from all

Rarity Gallery owners Vassilis Matsaidonis and Christos Nicolaou

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Rarity

Gallery Skoufa Mykonos

When Vassilis Matsaidonis and Christos Nicolaou decided to open a modern art gallery in Mykonos in 1992, there were just a few tourist shops selling folklore paintings of bougainvilleas and cute donkeys. Nonetheless, on the dimly-lit and then-deserted Kalogera Street, an art space was born that surpassed even the finest galleries of Athens. At the time, their venture was considered eccentric, a rarity – which is how this gallery got its name. “We didn’t believe that what we were doing would have a financial benefit, or that it would last. We were surprised by the fact that, from the first moment, people supported us,” they confess. Today, Rarity is an insitution on the island. This is where the “repeater collectors” return to buy art. It’s also where teenagers come to pose in front of impressive works of famous artists to post their photos on social media. “From time to time, elderly ladies on their Cycladic cruise, who want to see something ‘weird,’ come by as well,” the owners say with a sweet smile – how else could they react to such a confluence? “We get visits from people who can buy art, and from others who are just eager to see it. You see, not everyone is able to visit MoMA or the Tate. But they can come here. This is our great conquest.” This year, visitors will come again to Rarity and they’ll drink grape juice courtesy of the two hospitable curators, take pictures and admire, among others, a new ensemble of works by Julian Opie.

The historic Gallery Skoufa, which opened its doors in Athens in 1981, launched a branch on Mykonos three years ago. The approach here is freer, as it should be, reaching an international audience from across the world. “The island is a window to the world, a place where I’m able to showcase Greek art,” says Giannis Kalligas, the owner. “I try to host Greek and international artists simultaneously, so that a creative dialog develops.” Gallery Skoufa Mykonos organizes temporary exhibitions, where it always tries to group artists under specific concepts and themes. We always want to create a narrative through the works that we exhibit. We don’t operate like a store that hangs paintings in order to sell them.” This year’s season will kick off with an exhibition on naïf Greek folk art, which will then be followed by an expressionist narration focusing on form and color. In August, when the island is packed with visitors, there will be two big pop art exhibitions featuring the creations of Greek and foreign artists.

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Luis Orozco painter

Born in Mexico 86 years ago, he first set foot on the island in 1960. He has flourished as an artist, holding exhibitions in Mykonos and abroad. “Your homeland is where you are happy and loved. For me, Mykonos is my homeland. I have lived here over half my life. I am a Mykonian from Mexico... In 1960, my friends bought me a ticket to Greece, and we traveled for 40 days on a freighter to Piraeus. “Are you painters? You should go to Mykonos,” they told us. People’s front doors stayed open at night. Fishermen sang in the dark. Children played freely. People danced. There were few tourists, but they were well educated – they came for Delos. Students of architecture from around the world came here in search of the secret of beauty. The light is soft. Look at the fishing boats at Gialos bathed in the evening light from Delos. Mykonos in the eyes of the painter is not a white dove. Most often here I have painted landscapes and little lanes. Everything is built to a human scale. The height of the houses and the dimensions of the island make man happy.” - A L E X A N D R A T Z AV E L L A

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Dio Horia Marina Vranopoulou opened Dio Horia three years ago, taking the island’s art scene a step further. This distinctive conceptual space, located next to the Church of Panachrantos, isn’t just a gallery; with its Greek roots and an international frame of reference, it is a platform for showcasing contemporary art. Its main goal is to intensify cultural exchange and encourage creative collaboration between Greek and foreign artists. “The coming together of people is more important to us than anything else,” explains Vranopoulou. “Mykonos for me is its people, Greek or not. All these different people who co-exist and create an atmosphere of freedom and communication.”

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What’s taking place here is truly fresh and it’s given Mykonos a new artistic dimension. “Dio Horia is putting the most visited island in the country on the cultural map,” the New York Times wrote. On the rooftop of the building that houses Dio Horia, you’ll find Mykonos’ first art bar. It’s a place that appears untouched by the popular island’s buzz. Here, you can digest and discuss the art you’ve just seen, in a creative journey that starts out in Mykonos and travels around the world. This is art that has Greek roots, but also enjoys international recognition. This season, the space will host a number of interesting exhibitions featuring the work of important new artists.

ART

Zannis Koukas

sculptor, painter Born and raised in Athens, he moved to the island of his ancestors 30 years ago. “I remember it was summertime, it was dark outside and the light from the kerosene lamp in the front room was flickering. We got a whiff of freshly baked bread - it was yayá, my grandmother, who had just made a batch. Glasses were filled with red Mykonian wine which I had bought earlier in the day from the grocery store in Gialos. Life was simple, innocent. In a way, returning to my ancestors’ island wasn’t so much a choice but a calling; it was destiny. Mykonos is a free island, the artist is a free spirit and when these freedoms meet one another, the imagination runs wild. My sculptures definitely have island influences. The Mykonian crocodile, our pride and joy, roams in the wild yet is absolutely harmless. The anchor - that’s something you drop when you want to stop and get some rest. The kilim rugs that the housewives lay on the floor. The friendliest of birds - the seagull.

My biggest love is the Phoebus skiff. Built in 1948, I bought if off an old Myconian captain who carried building materials. I refurbished it, decorated it with my own sculptures and I’m always ready to take off with any fellow travelers who want to see a different part of the island.” - A L E X A N D R A T Z A V E L L A

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Brian Piccini painter

Born in 1952, this Canadian artist was raised and educated in Vancouver. He has been living and working on Mykonos since he was 19. I arrived on Mykonos at night, in October 1971, with the first fall showers, after a 12-hour crossing on deck. By morning, the sun had dried the whitewashed walls of the houses and the air was sparkling; the blues above and around made my eyes jump. Without having experienced a Mykonian summer, I decided to stay. Painting and the sun kept me here. I knew that, with this light, I could wake up and paint 365 days a year. In my first six or seven years, I walked the entire island. I bought a loaf of bread hot from the oven at dawn, and spent the day wandering with a sketchbook. I was happy.

What continues to inspire me are the wildflowers of Delos – an explosion of color in my eyes – and the curves of the houses. For me, Paraportiani is still like cold water on my face. It was built without technology, just with hands and hearts. I painted it like a sandcastle for kids. It was the best move I’ve ever made. Mykonos was a “hot” destination, a place where I could come close to the world art scene. While creating here, I have held over 30 exhibitions both on the island and abroad. For six years now, clients have been visiting me at my studio. It took me half a lifetime to say this, but yes: after 46 years here, I feel like a local! I have my roots here, this is where I met my wife Milka, who is from Serbia. I see kids around here and I say, “Come here, you! I know your parents.”

- A L E X A N D R A T Z AV E L L A

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ART

Celebrating Creativity the ISL AND’S GALLERIES ARE IN FULL SUMMER SWING

B Y X E N I A G EOR G I A D OU

GALLERY SKOUFA MYKONOS In addition to the ongoing group exhibition of works by artists represented by the gallery, including Ioli Xifara, Pavlos Samios, Maria Giannakaki, Aaron Majoros, Lazaros Maravas, Dimitris Yeros and others, three temporary group exhibitions have been planned. Until July 16

“COLOR FIElds” Abstract,

mixed-media works, inspired by the natural world. Participating artists: Thekla Papadopoulou, Luca Brandi, Nana Vetta, Stella Meletopoulou, Artemis Papadima, Stoian Donev, Tita Bonatsou and Stergios Stamos. July 18-August 31 “POpeye” An exhibition of contemporary takes on the pop art movement, featuring works that integrate a range of techniques and media. Greek and foreign artists reference comic-book and pop art works and confirm the continuing dynamism of this celebrated artistic current. Participating artists: Chronis Tsakirakakis, Stathis Alexopoulos, Amalia Sotiropoulou, Patrick Rubin116

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stein, Feni Bouza, Dimi Bitsakou, Pinar du Pre, Christina Warren, Mary Markopoulou, Fotis Pehlivanidis, Thanasis Lalas, Alexandros Maganiotis, Adam Karamanlis, Giorgos Vorres, Spyros Bitsakis and others. September

“Α Glimpse into the History of MODERN Greek Art” An exploration

of the evolution of modern Greek art and the international influences it absorbed from the 19th century through to the “Generation of the Thirties” and the second half of the 20th century.Works by Opi Zouni, Yannis Tsarouchis, Κonstantinos Volanakis and others will be on display. • 12

Dilou, Chora, www.skoufagallery.gr

Dio Horia UNTIL July 24

Hulda GuzmAn As part of Dio Horia’s artist residency program, this Dominican painter will present a solo exhibition, taking a theatrical approach to her subjects that will help viewers identify with the moods she wishes to convey in each work.

“Heartburner” Malvina

Panagiotidi presents a residency show of wax sculptures inspired by the folk traditions and superstitions of Mykonos. The inspiration for the exhibition was an early 18th-century story about the exhumation of a supposed vampire on the island and the removal of his heart. The body, according to the French botanist Joseph Pitton de Tournefort, was cremated in order to purify it. July 28-August 22

“Build your own house”

A group exhibition, curated by Jannis Varelas and Stamatia Dimitrakopoulos, will explore the extent to which works of art can redefine personal space. David Adamo-Margarita Myrogianni A two-person

show will take place as part of Dio Horia’s residency program. The American artist’s cedar sculptures will “converse” with the Greek creator’s meticulously staged still-life photographs.

Aurel Schmidt This solo

show of works by the Canadian creator, takes place in the framework of Dio Horia’s artist

residency program. Through her drawings she questions stereotypes of beauty and masculinity, as well as standard associations with decomposition, rot, and refuse. August 25September 30 Raul de Nieves This Mexican artist’s solo exhibition includes sculptures, paintings and garments elaborately decorated with plastic beads in an allusion to the traditional artistic techniques and crafts of his homeland. Aleksandar Todorovich

This Serbian artist draws material from pop culture, comic books and video games. In this solo show, he will use characters and symbols inspired by politics, society and art. • Panahra

Square, Chora, www. diohoria.com

MUNICIPAL ART GALLERY July 14-August 10

The first female Greek photographer

Born in 1882 in Mykonos, Mary Paraskeva was the first Greek woman whose body of photographic work attracted

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by Greek artists, including Michail Tsakountis, Savvas Poursanidis, Sarantis Gagas, Kostas Spyriounis, and Spyros Vassiliou. In the main entrance stands an imposing sculpture by Harry Economopoulos: a replica of a kouros encased in solid glass. This summer, the gallery will also be hosting works of acclaimed Greek painters such as Ioannis Altamouras, Diamantis Diamantopoulos, Alekos Fassianos and Dimitris Mytaras. • 7

Minima Gallery has earned a reputation for its meticulously curated collection of works by distinguished as well as upand-coming Greek and foreign artists. This year, which marks the gallery’s 20th anniversary, it will be hosting works by Sala Lieber, Jeffrey Kroll, Tillman Krumrey, Emil Herker, Renato Freitas, Kostis Georgiou, Maria Filopoulou, Antonis Titakis, Miltos Golemas, Nikolas Asproulis, Stelios Tolios and other artists.

Meletopoulou, www.bigwhitegallery.com

• Goumenio

Square, Chora, Tel. (+30) 2289.023.236 www.minimagallery.com

September 2017

Matogianni, Chora, Τel. (+30) 2289.027.190

August 1-20 The influence of Greek culture on contemporary art

The exhibition “The Light of the Aegean Sea in Contemporary Art” in the Kalogera Hall of the Municipal Art Gallery of Mykonos, in cooperation with Hadjis Art Gallery, will present over 20 outstanding works from artists including Ioli Xifara, Sotiris Sorongas, Alexis Akrithakis, Nikos Kessanlis, Dimitris Mytaras, Yannis Kottis and Valias Semertzidis. These creations seek to underline 118

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The power of allegory

the relationship between contemporary art and the enlightened civilizations of the Aegean. • Kalogera Hall, Kalogera and Panachradou,Τel. (+30) 2289.027.190

KAPOPOULOS FINE ARTS HALLa July 21-August 3 An exhibition that brings together the creations of Alekos Fassianos with those of Argentina’s Antonio Segui, an influential figure in the world of modern art. The characters depicted in the two artists’ paintings meet, highlighting the techniques and subject matters that drew their focus. 15 Enoplon Dinameon, www.kapopoulosart.gr •

RARITYa July 28-August 17 Nature in bloom The gallery will host the first solo show by Zhuang Hong Yi, titled “Flowers from My Garden.” Drawing inspiration from the plant world, with depictions of roses, irises and tulip petals, and referencing the techniques, themes and materials associated with Asian art as well as elements of Western painting, the renowned Chinese artist creates impressive floral compositions characterized by bold color combinations. 20-22 Kalogera, www.raritygallery.com •

attention for both its volume and quality. The daughter of Nicolas Gripari, a wealthy landowner from Mykonos, she grew up on the family’s estate in Volhynia on the Crimean peninsula and began taking photographs as a young woman. The exhibition “Mary Paraskeva: Early 20th-century photographs by a cosmopolitan Mykoniot” will be curated by photographer and photography historian John Stathatos and will feature images from Paraskeva’s travels in the Mediterranean, including many seaside shots. An important part of her archive – which was recently donated to the Photographic Archives of the Benaki Museum – is her documentation of her family life, the day-to-day activities in pre-revolutionary Crimea, as well as rural and urban scenes. • Maria Igglesi Hall, 45

SPYRAL ART GALLERY This year, Spyral Art Gallery will be displaying additional works, courtesy of Thessaloniki’s Donopoulos International Fine Arts, which, for the first time, is making its entire catalogue available on Mykonos. This means visitors will have the opportunity to see works by Gehard Demetz, Apostolis Palavrakis, Aspassio Haronitaki, Nikos Aslanidis, Philip Tsiaras, Adriana Molder, Willem Harbers, Aljoscha, Kai Richter, Lia Kazakou, Christoforos Doulgeris and Nam Hijo. • 24

D. Mavrogenni, Chora, Tel. (+30) 2289.029.033, www.donopoulos.gr, www.spyralartgallery.com

The Big White Gallery This is perhaps the only modern art gallery on Mykonos displaying works exclusively

The 3rd Mykonos Biennale will take place in September under the title “Trans Allegoria”. Performances, short film screenings, visual arts, dance shows and installations will take place across the island, a “transcendent landscape of alternative thought” according to Lydia Venieri, the organization’s artistic director. Monasteries, museums, archaeological sites, cinemas and windmills will host events that focus on the importance of symbolism.

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SHOPPING |

Always in Vogue Mykonos’ boutiques are like a page out of a high-fashion magazine and Chora a glamorous open-air mall beckoning you to max out your credit card. B Y K e l ly S ta v r o p o u l o u P H O T OS PER I K LE S M ERA K O S

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n the labyrinth of alleyways that is Chora, one can at times be taken aback by the weighty names of international fashion houses interspersed with sudden fuchsia splashes of bougainvillea. Is this a charming combination, or an odd mismatch? It probably matters little. Whether you like it or not, as you walk along Matogiannia, Mykonos’ most glamorous street, your gaze will be drawn to a dress with vibrant prints, to an accessory that you’ve only seen in French Vogue, to those sandals that you would happily forgo eating to buy. Greek faves First stop is Parthenis. Located since 1979 between the windmills and Little Venice, this shop has become a landmark in its own right. In the freewheeling ’80s, designer Dimitris Parthenis would sit barefoot and dressed in a robe on the steps outside, waiting to welcome his customers. And when a particularly “good” client entered, he would lock the door and tend to them in private. They would put on some music, pour a few drinks and try on clothes. Today his daughter, Orsalia Parthenis, carries on the tradition of cotton, monochromatic clothes with an almost monastic style bearing the famed “Parthenis Athens-Mykonos” label. “Parthenis clothes have become so connected to this island because they are unisex, they have no gender. Mykonos is a place where sexuality is not fixed and genders are blurred,” she tells us. On the other hand, Al Giga, the renowned stylist who in previous decades single-handedly dressed the Athens chic crowd, is a more recent arrival on the island – at least as a shop owner. It was only last year that he opened Showroom by Al Giga, featuring collections created exclusively by Greek designers – many of them his friends. His initial goal was to promote their work and to create a fashion hotspot. Indeed, on the stone benches outside the boutique you are sure to see models, well-known photographers or the 122

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designers themselves, on their annual visits to the island. Giga plays the role of host, offering drinks, presenting clothes, chatting and laughing loudly and generally putting out good vibes. If you ask him why he opened his shop here and not in Athens, he will say that there is a segment of people who come to Mykonos specifically to keep up with fashion trends, to see what people are wearing and what the shops have on display. “Here one moment you might see Gisele walk by, then Charlize Theron, and immediately afterwards the Prince of Morocco will come in to do some shopping. This is not Greece, this is Mykonos,” he says. If you’re looking for avant-garde creations by international designers, head to Free Shop. Since the mid ‘80s it has been introducing Greeks to new creators who would later go on to become household names. In the last few years, the owner of the boutique, Melissa Metaxa, has also been designing the Wildwood collection offered here. Vibrant prints, lively colors, loose lines and more accessible prices make the collection the most sought-after in the shop. Right next door, Soho-Soho is for browsing big-name brands. Marni, Givenchy, Pucci, Oscar de la Renta and others all rub shoulders. The shop’s collection of swimsuits is always stunning. You’ll find a similar atmosphere at Enny Monaco, the highly regarded Athens boutique that of course became much-loved on Mykonos, too. It is the only place on the island where one can find Christian Louboutin heels. And yes, on Mykonos you just might need them. Balmain, Alaia, Gucci, Giambattista Valli can all be found in this wonderful shop with its archways and paved courtyard. A personal shopping service is also available. But this year the best news is something else: in July and August Enny Monaco is turning the listed neoclassical Venieri Mansion in Chora into a pop-up store. On display will be numbered, collectible Mexicaba bags by Louboutin,

which will no doubt provide lovers of the fashion house with an additional reason to visit Mykonos this summer. Luxury shopping The small, brightly-lit store that is home to Balenciaga is tucked away down a small side-street. It is perhaps in keeping with the slightly aloof style of the Italian brand that one needs to seek it out. The punk shoes that are a favorite among many a blogger, the neon pop accessories and the fashion house’s androgynous jeans are all here. This year, you’ll also find on display “that” oversized blue bag that bears a striking resemblance to Ikea’s iconic carry-all. Speaking of haute shopping, the time will come when one will look for the trademark white camellias of Coco Chanel. The French house is of course represented on the island, specifically in the stunning boutique Linea Piu, with the much-Instagrammed olive tree at its entrance. Set into cutouts in the interior stone wall are the house’s 2.55 bags in various colors and prints, in a display that resembles an

“Parthenis clothes have become so connected to this island because they are unisex, they have no gender. Mykonos is a place where sexuality is not fixed and genders are blurred.”

EFHARIS

ANNEZOS

AL GIGA SHOWROOM

BALENCIAGA ENNY MONACO

SOHO SOHO

SHOPPING

art installation. And lest you forget that you’re on an island, here you’ll find a large collection of Chanel hats, beach towels and swimsuits. The Louis Vuitton store, located right next to the bar Astra, speaks for itself. You cross the flagstone-paved courtyard, climb the steps and enter an L.V. shrine. Wallets, keychains, tote bags, shopping bags, briefcases and, of course, beach bags (all featuring the famous logo), are on display in this truly beautiful boutique with a Cycladic flair.

ORSALIA PARTHENIS

AL GIGA SHOWROOM

ΚΟΝΤΙΖΑ

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Keeping it traditional Amid the temples dedicated to grand fashion houses and famous designers, you will also find several shops featuring little-known labels. What these lack in name recognition, they make up for in exclusivity (being found only on the island) and in their distinct Cycladic aesthetic. A case in point are Kontiza bags – hand-made from cotton fabric with prints designed by the Mykonian owner. You’ll find them laid out on the steps leading up to this lilliputian shop. The bags are perfect for the beach and promise to rekindle memories of Mykonos wherever you carry them. Also available here is the traditional knitted cap of the island – the so-called koukos – in a variety of colors. Once upon a time, these were knitted by local women for their fishermen husbands who preferred them to conventional hats as they would not be blown off by the wind when they were out at sea. Ef haris in Little Venice is the local star designer. A onetime employee of HSBC, who hails from Athens, she eventually moved to Mykonos and began designing, sewing and selling wonderful clothes made of cotton and silk. She herself eschews the word “ethnic” but her silk sarongs, airy caftans with their golden threading and dresses with embroidered flowers have a distinctly Greek island feel. Last year, Kate Moss combined one of Efharis’ dresses with her brown leather sandals for the supermodel’s most “island chic” look that we can recall.

Next door, a shop selling tourist goods known as Annezo’s Souvenirs has a comprehensive collection of hats. Straw fedoras (known as kavourakia) are available in every color imaginable, and make for fun and stylish beach accessories. For the more eclectic, a collection of authentic Panama hats is also available. The final stop, and one of the most loved, is the tiny shop in Little Venice offering that accessory most identified with Greek island fashion: leather sandals. Mykonos Sandals has been here since 1948, a time when the only “tourists” in Chora were those islanders who had come from the village of Ano Mera! The owner, Maria Rampia, sticks largely to timeless designs, producing and selling simple and authentic sandals made of natural leather for men, women and children.

SHOPPING

Hot New Arrival Outside Chora, the island’s shopping scene is about to go where it has never gone before. The cosmopolitan beach of Psarou is acquiring its very own shopping mall – the first on Mykonos – in the form of Nammos Village. The complex will feature five buildings, domestic and international brands, underground parking for 300 vehicles, a 5-star delicatessen, an open-air café and the so-called “botanical gardens” – imported palms and other plants to frame this haven for shopping. To add to the grandeur, at the entrance you’ll find original works by Salvador Dali that are being rented from foreign galleries and are available for purchase. In a place where the shopping is already surreal, they’ll fight in.

Amid the temples dedicated to grand fashion houses, you will also find several shops featuring littleknown labels; what these lack in name recognition, they make up for in exclusivity and their distinct Cycladic aesthetic.

OPT I C S

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Aghiou Efthimiou St. • 84600 Mykonos • Tel. (+30) 22890.290.20 • Dexamenes • 84600 Mykonos • Tel. (+30) 22890.791.84

W ellness an d W ellbeing

Secrets of Mythical Beauty in Greece G

reece has always been a favourite destination point for people from all over the world. Europeans, Middle Easterners and even North Americans have all made the trip here for the wonderful weather, the natural beauty, the breathtaking culture and the sheer enjoyment that a vacation in Greece can offer. Today, many visitors have yet another reason for choosing Greece; they’ve come here to undergo plastic surgery, performed in line with the latest innovations and to the highest standards of medical competence. Most Greek plastic surgeons are internationally certified and in close contact with their European, American and other international colleagues. They take part in major world scientific congresses and events and are ranked among the best plastic surgeons in the world today. Every year, ten thousand cosmetic surgeries are carried out in the state (10 facilities) and private centers (10 major clinics, a number of smaller locations) for plastic surgery that exist in Greece . Two-thirds of these are performed in Athens. The majority of the rest are performed in Thessaloniki , with a small number taking place in Larissa, Crete and Rhodes.

Greece is a country with so much to offer visitors. Wonderful mountain landscapes, miles of stunning coastline, hundreds of beautiful islands and a rich cultural heritage make Greece a perfect vacation paradise. Add to this the fact that Greek hospitals and doctors are reaching out to medical tourists to offer high-quality healthcare at what is usually a fraction of the cost of treatment in their home country, and Greece really could be the perfect destination for your next medical journey, too.

Greece is one of the best destinations for both vacations and medical tourism at any time of the year because of its excellent climate conditions; the sun, the sea and the famous Greek diet all play their part in making the country a healthy choice. Our team at the Dr Lyras Plastic Surgery Clinic and the Dr Rapti Endocrinologist is dedicated to providing health and beauty care and the highest-quality medical services available. Our patients’ comfort, safety and satisfaction are always our primary concern. What’s more, our services are offered according to an exceptionally competitive pricing policy, particularly in light of our stellar international reputation. The clinic is led by Dr Ioannis Lyras, who studied plastic surgery in Brazil and the United States. He is joined by Dr Pari Rapti, whose fields of expertise are endocrinology, metabolism and aesthetic endocrinology, which she studied in Italy and Brazil; she continues to collaborate on ongoing research with colleagues in Russia, Romania and other parts of Europe. The experience that these two doctors bring – the scientific knowledge from all the countries in which

Our team at the Dr Lyras Plastic Surgery Clinic AND THE DR RAPTI endocrinolOGIST is dedicated to providing health and beauty care and the highest-quality medical services available. Our patients’ comfort, safety and satisfaction are always our primary concern.

PUBLI

For more information please visit • www.ioannislyras.gr • www.rapti.gr

they’ve trained, worked or done research – in their fields of specialization (including diet and exercise as well as endocrinology and plastic surgery) is applied in the state-of-the-art Henry Dunant Hospital, as well as at other fully equipped and equally well-appointed facilities belonging to medical and paramedical associates of the Clinic. With the vast expertise that the doctors and the other practioners possess, and with the support of the latest technology and materials coupled with luxurious accommodation in the finest medical centers in Greece, the Clinic can assure you the best treatment possible. In the body-shaping procedures that he performs on his female patients, Dr Lyras combines two surgical approaches, the first consisting of the placement of suitable silicone implants and the second being the optimal use of the body’s own

fatty tissue in a single, painless, composite and holistic operation in order to achieve new natural breasts and total body reshaping at the same time. This new method is called “No-pain composite holistic breast implant and fat-grafting technique for breast augmentation and reconstruction.” It forms part of the “Quadruplane 2+2 holistic technique,” which involves a highly effective buttock lift achieved via the world-famous Brazilian method to complement the equally charming new drop-shaped breasts achieved through implantation. This fall, Dr Lyras spoke at length about this dual approach and about the “Quadruplane 2+2 holistic technique” at the 4th World Plastic Surgery Congress, held in Monte Carlo, Monaco, from 24 to 26 November, where he was both a guest speaker and president of the session, re-introducing the “Quadruplane 2+2 holis-

tic technique.” For her part, Dr Rapti specializes in mainly curative care. She has also organized world congresses around the theme of Thermal Medical Tourism and Aesthetic Tourism in conjunction with the international beauty therapy association “Cidesco,” and is a strong advocate of the benefits that this type of tourism can bring to our country. For those contemplating coming for treatment or surgery, this is the chance to combine top-quality internationally certified healthcare with a safe and restful vacation in Greece! You and your loved ones can indulge in the original Brazilian Pitanguy style of beauty care while exploring the rich culture and natural beauty of this sunny country. There’s fine cuisine, spectacular beaches, five-star hotels and resorts, great spas and beauty salons and a relaxed Mediterranean approach to enjoying life.

ACTIVITIE S

RECHARGE BODY AND SOUL Get your adrenaline rush, balance your chakras or simply spend some fun time exploring the island by land or sea. BY A l e x a n d r a T z av e l l a P H O T OS P ER I K LE S M ER A K O S

SCENIC ADVENTURES ON TWO WHEELS Discover cycle routes, free from cars and speeding drivers, which will bring you closer to the lesser-known farming side of the island. You will cycle along sun-kissed trails on the outskirts of Ano Mera, past fields and farmhouses, and rest by picturesque churches. The easiest rides take you to the beach of Fokos, and the most demanding to Lia Βeach. No matter which route you’ll take, you’ll end up at the Vioma vineyards with a generous meal of local produce and wines from their cellar. Your guide will

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be Dimitra, the winery owner’s daughter, who has left city life to return to her ancestral home and turn her passion for cycling into a profession. Fluent in English, French, Spanish and Turkish, Dimitra will satisfy your curiosity about everything you see along the way. Excursions are planned according to the physical fitness of each group (up to 17 participants).

YUMMY PEDALS: Maou, Ano Mera • Tel. (+30) 6972.299.282 • www.yummypedals.gr

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GALLOP ON THE BEACH Whether you’re an experienced equestrian or just an incurable romantic, horse riding on the quiet northeastern part of the island is a unique experience. You start your ride at Ano Mera, the center of farming life on Mykonos, and continue along the shores of the water reservoir, which is an excellent spot for birdwatching. After approximately 3k you arrive at the golden, quiet beach of Fokos. From early morning until sunset, this relatively secluded beach offers great opportunities for snapshots that will bring back the taste of salty Mykonian air. The round trip takes 2 hours (3 hours if you include a stop for a swim and a bite to eat); also available are tailor-made experiences, such as a romantic picnic on the beach with a proper photo session. Your guide will be Fanis Rouvas, a professional horse rider for 30 years, and his experienced colleagues.

HORSELAND Ano Mera • Tel. (+30) 6945.778.962 • www.mykonoshorse.com

UNDERWATER EXPLORATIONS The beauty of Mykonos is not only terrestrial, as an underwater exploration will immediately reveal. The clear turquoise waters, with their mild temperatures (24oC in summer) and exceptional visibility (up to 50m), the absence of strong currents and the high quality of the services on offer from diving centers, all guarantee a perfect scuba diving experience. The most popular diving spots are the Lia reef, which is home to multi-colored nudibranchs, and Aghia Anna, which is frequented by schools of barracudas. On a boat dive, you can explore the spectacular cavern systems of Tragonisi or the rocks on Kalafakiona Reef, which are encrusted with fragments of ancient pottery. Another highlight is the wreck of the ANNA II, a 62m cargo vessel that sunk off Lia Beach in 1995. There are three PADI-accredited diving centers on Mykonos.

GODIVE MYKONOS Lia • Tel. (+30) 6946.957.732 • www.godivemykonos.com

MYKONOS DIVING CENTER Paradise Beach •

Tel. (+30) 2289.024.808 • www.dive.gr

W-DIVING Kalafatis Beach • Tel. (+30) 6945.243.928 • www.mykonos-diving.com 130

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PADDLERS ON THE WILD SIDE Spectacular rocks that rise dramatically out of the sea, deserted sandy coves and only wildlife to occasionally break the unearthly silence: believe it or not, you are still on Mykonos – only exploring it by kayak. You don’t need to be an experienced paddler to enjoy the 6-10k courses. The duration depends on your own ability; the destination on the weather. With a north wind, the starting point is Panormos. You’ll have to wear a helmet to go reef riding around Aghios Sostis – where the highlight is

a shady sea-cave. With a south or west wind, you start from the beach at Korfos. You’ll paddle past the windmills and Little Venice, and discover the islet of Baos. All trips include snorkeling, a picnic on the beach and photo-ops. Trips are supervised by British Canoe Union Certified guides, who know Mykonos rock by rock.

MYKONOS KAYAK TOURS AND TRAILS Aghios Sostis •

Tel. (+30) 6942.434.242

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www.mykonoskayak.com

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MYSTICAL ENERGY FLOWS There’s probably something in the air – be it the aura of ancient energy or those mystical Delos vibes – that draws yoga enthusiasts to hedonistic, cosmopolitan Mykonos. There are many classes available, including lovers’ yoga, aerial yoga (where you’ll find yourself hanging suspended from the eucalyptus trees in the gardens of Panigirakis Castle) and even sunset saxo yoga by the windmills, accompanied by live saxophone music. Choose what suits you best, pick a location and rejuvenate body and spirit, guided by experienced yoga instructors.

YOGA MYKONOS Mykonos Theoxenia Boutique Hotel, Chora •

Tel.: (+30) 694.645.6006 • www.yogamykonos.com

SUNSET YOGA Panigirakis castle, Chora • Tel.: (+30) 699.360.1424 • mykonoscastle.eu/yoga/

ATHENS TRAINERS If you prefer to salute the sun on the beach of your choice, call on Varvara Solomonidou’s Athens Trainers, active on Mykonos for the last 19 summers. Tel. (+30) 6950.614.115 • www.athenstrainers.gr

Board riders love Mykonos for its crystal waters, beautiful beaches, and of course... the meltemi, the strong summer wind that powers windsurfers and kitesurfers, and transforms the sea into an acrobatic stage. The most popular beaches for surfing are where the two surf schools are located. The kitesurfing school at Korfos Beach operates from spring to fall and attracts large numbers of kitesurfers because of the continuous steady winds (averaging 18-40 knots). Kalafatis Beach features a windsurfing school. Pro kitesurfers can take on the waves at Ftelia Beach, and windsurfers can also try Lia Beach, but they must bring their gear with them.

KITE MYKONOS Korfos, Ornos • Tel. (+30) 6937.238.080 •

www.kitemykonos.com

WINDSURFING MYKONOS PEZI HUBER Kalafatis Beach •

Tel. (+30) 2289.072.345 • www.pezi-huber.com

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taste GREECE IS

MYK O N O S

Trendy and new, tried and true The latest in international food trends are always on the menu here, but local products are making a comeback, too. Luis Orozco, "Still Life: Watermelon and Pomegranates" (detail). Oil on canvas, 2007.

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A morning menu based on Greek products, specially designed so that you’ll never have to regret the night before. BY Dimitris Rousounelos

big night out is part of every vacation on Mykonos, and the morning after is unavoidably part of the experience, too. We all know the symptoms: a heavy head, queasy stomach, dehydration, photosensitivity – all the results of the chemical changes in our body from what we consumed the night before. Scientifically speaking, the hangover is a “disease” without a cure. The best that you can do is put your trust in family remedies or google “how to cure a hangover.” Most tips are more or less common knowledge: plenty of liquids for dehydration; soup or milk to calm the stomach; fructose, sesame and tahini to help to speed up the metabolism of toxic substances; proteins, like eggs, to revive the body, and probiotics to assist in restoring digestive function.

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After a night involving a lot of drink, there’s nothing better than a restorative meal. Not many hotels on the island serve a simple breakfast. After all, who would wake up in time for that? Instead, they offer a meal that more closely resembles brunch. The Gastronomy Club of Mykonos - whose members are all food professionals - has gone one step further. It has created the “Reveler’s Breakfast,” a call to forget croissants and bacon for the moment, and to try some classic Greek tastes in their place. With products such as local charcuterie, cheeses, yogurts and savory pies, and with further help from the omnipresent Greek extra virgin olive oil, even the most miserable of morning-after patients will start to feel, from the first bite they take, the beneficial effects of the Greek hangover treatment.

BEVERAGES

BAKED GOODS

EGG DISHES

SWEETS

Cockerel broth with lemon and breadsticks, served with kopanisti (a local salty, spicy cheese); or fresh fruit juice; or warm milk with honey.

Mostrakia (rusks) with grated tomato, xinotyro (local whey cheese) and basil; or sesame koulouri (bread ring) with graviera (yellow cheese) from the Cyclades.

Scrambled eggs with tomato; or omelet with fennel and kopanisti; or croque madame à la Mykonienne (leavened bread, ham, fried egg, Cycladic graviera and tyrovolia (a soft mild cheese made of goat or/ and sheep’s milk).

Rice pudding; or tyrovolia with honey and sesame; or Mykonos yogurt with fresh or dried fruit and roasted almonds.

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HANGOVER BREAKFAST

Croque madame Ă la Mykonienne: leavened bread, louza, fried egg, Cycladic graviera and tyrovolia.

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RECOVERY ROOMS Central Café Dishes that showcase Cycladic and Mykonian flavors. New Peripheral Road, Argyraina, Chora, Tel. (+30) 2289.077.306 The Liberty BREAKFAST ROOM With a clear focus •

on the richness of Cycladic products, augmented by international influences. New Peripheral Road, Vougli, Chora, Tel. (+30) 2289.024.005 Wolves of Kitchen •

Big brunch menu in this new all-day restaurant, including traditional pies and fried breads, energizing drinks with fresh fruit, and a “Hangover Helper” that includes an omelet, fresh cheese and vegetables. • Ornos, Tel. (+30) 2289.023.529 Bowl Breakfast-oriented

and with an emphasis on healthy eating, this trendy yet casual place features a vegan-friendly menu with super foods and ingredients like Spiroulina and vegetable proteins as well as local goods. • New Peripheral Road, Ornos, Tel. (+30) 2289.077.659 136

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TRADITION

A Taste of Sacrifice Not for the faint-hearted, the traditional pig-killing feast of Mykonos is both a cause for celebration and a source of gastronomic delights. BY Dimitris Rousounelos

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While the pig is being slaughtered, the musicians warm up for the celebration.

et’s take it from the beginning, back when Mykonos was a humble fishing village. The people who lived inland were mostly livestock farmers, while in Chora, the main town around the harbor, many made their living from the sea, either as fishermen or seafarers. Until a few years ago, that was more or less the make-up of most settlements around the Aegean. In the old days, in societies like that of Mykonos, people had to have a reason to celebrate. The opportunities were limited. Fishermen might celebrate a good catch, as captured in the lyrics of an old song: “The poor fishermen made a fortune, but spent it all on music and good times and are poor once again.” The livestock farmers would throw a party when they sold off their animals, mainly lambs and goats, to the butcher just before Easter. Crop farmers found reason to celebrate after a good harvest and the sale of their harvest at a good price, or when they slaughtered their own pig at the first chill of fall. When times were hard, a well-fed pig was sacrificed to bring a little joy into the house. Its meat would pay off outstanding loans, interest and bills, while also providing sustenance for the family during the winter. The pig slaughter was an important feast, albeit a family affair rather than a public event, like the local saints’ days.

Cured pork delicacies on display in an old-time homestead cellar, where both scheduled and impromptu feasts would take place.

On the shoreline of Platys Gialos, women chat while making sausage.

The pig feast was for a close circle of friends and neighbors. Its annual recurrence was essential, since the sacrifice of the home-raised pig provided the meat and mainstay of daily meals. It had so much to offer that it gave rise to a popular saying: “Nothing from the pig goes to waste except its squeal.” Every bit of it was useful; it was part of a diet that one might refer to nowadays as “nose-to-tail.” The sacrifice of the pig required many helping hands. They worked methodically following the traditional process that dictated, in times when food preservation technology was non-existent, how the carcass parts were sorted and processed. The parts to be cured, such as the knuckles, the bones with a little meat, and the lardi (pieces of fat just under the skin), were separated. These items were a major dietary supplement and paired well with wild greens and pulses year-round. Then, the two tenderloins, one on either side of the spine, were removed as one piece and cleaned of fat. This was the best, leanest meat and warranted special care, as it would be used to make louza. Other bits of lean meat and fat were set aside to make a coarse ground meat, which would be mixed with oregano, summer savory, salt and pepper and then stuffed into intestines to make the particularly delicious Mykonos air-dried sausages. Two other products would be prepared

at home: païdes, the small chops cured with the same herbs as louza and dried in air, and bouboulo, made from the pork tenderloin. The party that followed around the richly laid table marked the conclusion of this team effort. Although tourism has brought major changes to the local way of life, the pig feast has withstood the test of time. It may not have the same intensity, nor fulfil the basic needs of survival, but it is still a greatly anticipated calendar highlight, which satisfies the desire of getting together, continuing old traditions and keeping the memory of the flavors alive. Nowadays, the pigs are usually killed at public slaughterhouses. That is one of the changes that came with time, along with the use of less salt; the salt used to cure the meat is now a matter of taste, rather than a method to preserve it through the winter. The preparation of the parts for each specialty item is still customarily done at home, in specially designated rooms. That is where the table is set once the work is done so the host can thank the guests, friends and neighbors who have come by to lend a hand. Teamwork, gastronomic delights, celebration and song purge the pig-killing feast of its central – albeit momentary – element: the actual killing of the beast. The idea of celebration is key to the pig feast. It is the Dionysian link connecting the present to the past.

More information on the pig feast and Mykonos delicatessen is available in Dimitris Rousounelos’ book Tastes of Sacrifice: The Pig Feast on Mykonos (Indiktos Publications, Athens, 2004) • www.scalagallery.gr

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TRADITION

At Stavros Menagias’ butcher shop, louza is made according to an old family recipe.

Louza: the ULTIMATE CHARCUTERIE DELICACY This is the cured meat – a single piece of tenderloin stuffed into the small intestine – that you will often see hanging in the island’s butcher shops. It is usually served with salad or other dishes, but you can ask for it on its own, cut into thin slices. Particularly tasty and comparable to Italian charcuterie, it’s a great meze to accompany wine or ouzo. Louza is made from tenderloin (the eye fillet of the iliopsoas muscle). After being cleaned of superfluous fat, tissue and lesser-quality meat, it is cured in semi-coarse salt for 24 hours. It is then rinsed with warm water, dried and seasoned with pepper, summer savory, oregano and ground allspice. Traditionally, it is stuffed in the large pork intestine to cure in one piece. It is about a meter long and 5-10cm thick. Commercially sold louza is usually stuffed into in a beef intestine and sold either cut into three to four pieces of 20-40cm each, or into slices. It is the ultimate delicacy of the Greek charcuterie industry. The Mykonos louza is its simplest, most balanced and tender form and is known for its quality and unique flavor throughout Greece. It can be vacuum-packed and kept for weeks in the refrigerator, or for three to four months in the freezer. Ask for it at butcher shops on the island.

Pork louza before...

...and during consumption.

SHOPPING GUIDE Menagias At this family-owned butcher shop, you can sample an excellent version of louza made according to Grandma Katina’s

recipe: exquisite in flavor, soft and tender in texture, and cut as it should be, into fine slices. You can also put in a special order for syssera (sautéed pork stored in fat) and païda ● Tourlos, New Peripheral Road, Tel. (+30) 2289.023.383 Markaras Also worth trying is the subtly aromatic and slightly salty louza, available at both branches of this butcher shop ● Fabrika, Tel. (+30) 2289.024.028; Ornos, Tel. (+30) 2289.024.033 Madoupas A spicier, richer version of louza can be sampled at both Madoupas locations ● Aghios Vlasis, Chora, Tel. (+30) 2289.022.250; Drafaki, Tel. (+30) 2289.027.626. All three butcher shops always have the famous Mykonos country sausages on hand, and occasionally lardi as well.

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PRODUCTS

counting on sheep The cheese-making tradition on Mykonos is mostly a family affair. BY Dimitris Rousounelos

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iorgos Syrianosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; parents and grandparents were cheesemakers, and he started helping on the family farm when he was just a child, especially when it came to bottle-feeding the baby lambs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; his favorite task. Over time, he too learned how to make cheese, being taught the secrets of the rare Mykonian vrasto (boiled) variety by his aunt Adriana. Formal training as an electrician landed him a job with the municipality of Mykonos, where he worked for 18 years, but he still spent his free time making both traditional and innovative products from his own flock. As the years went by, his love for cheese matured among the tyrovolia (small woven baskets) traditionally used to strain and shape the xinotyro

en them the opportunity to study and get on well in life, decided to continue the cheese-making tradition by establishing their own modern dairy. It was a challenge. “Whenever we approached public services or banks outside the island, we would get laughed at when we said we wanted to start a dairy on Mykonos,” they say. “They couldn’t fathom that Mykonos is inhabited by regular people who lead ordinary lives, behind the island’s vacation image.” They eventually conquered all the obstacles, thanks in large part to their drive, and created Mykonos Farmers – they were even able to share the joyful occasion with their parents. The partners viewed their accomplishment as an act of gratitude toward their island

and their families, “who gave them so much.” Their aim? “To take the island’s cheese-making industry one step further,” they reply. “This is what we know, and this is what we’ll do!” Mykonos Farmers uses milk from animals raised on Mykonos and nearby Naxos. They do not want to use chemicals or preservatives in their cheeses. They produce their own rennet and yeast to make products which are available for purchase across Mykonos and at selected outlets in Athens.

Giorgos Syrianos raises his flock both on Mykonos and the nearby isle of Rineia.

(sour cheese) variety. His friend Thanasis Kousathanas has a similar background; he helped his parents milk the animals and make cheese on the family farm. His family also owned a hotel, where guests seemed to really appreciate the homemade cheeses and his mother’s yogurt. Kousathanas went off to study in the United States (economics at Boston University and a postgrad degree at Harvard) and then returned to the island, where he chose not to pursue a career based on his studies but, instead, to build a life that he saw as infinitely better: dealing with the family’s businesses. Thanasis and Giorgos, each aware that their parents’ line of work had giv-

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MYKONOS FARMERS The Mykonos Farmers dairy is located in Aghios Lazaros, on the plateau above Psarou Beach. From the outset, the owners wanted to create a facility that was open to the public. They have already created reception areas and a tour program. They also organize by appointment small functions with brunch, lunch or an afternoon ouzo with meze as well as cooking classes. They also accept group visits. Aghios Lazaros Tel (+30) 2289.023.970 ● www.mykonosfarmers.com ● ●

SHOPPING GUIDE You’ll find a selection of local cheeses at most of the island’s food stores. Menagias butchers and Flora supermarkets have the biggest range, followed by Madoupas and Markaras butchers. A decent selection can also be found at the Floriou Mini Market in Ano Mera, at Baxes in Argyraina and at Matsoukas. ●

Baxes: Argyraina, Tel (+30)

2289.077.450 ●

Flora Super markets:

Mykonos Airport Area, Tel. (+30) 2289.023.509;

MYKONOS DAIRY FACTORY

Ano Mera, Tel. (+30) 2289.072.478;

Using wisdom and know-how passed down from their ancestors, the Kouka family have been producing PDO-certified and tangy kopanisti cheese, a smooth tyrovolia and a creamy xinotyro, but also delicious, rich and light yogurt, in their facility in Ano Mera, since 2009. The milk they use comes from their own 160-strong herd of cows, the largest of its kind in the Cyclades. ● Paliokastro, Ano Mera ● Tel. (+30) 2289.071.813

Vothonas, Tel. (+30) 2289.079.327

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●

Floriou MINI MARKET: Ano Mera,

Tel. (+30) 2289.071.246 ●

Matsoukas: New Peripheral Road,

Ano Mera, Tel. (+30) 2289.026.206

PRODUCTS

The Mykonos Platter Y O U ’ L L TA S T E C H E E S E S Y O U N E V E R K N E W E X I S T E D - A N D that Y O U ’ L L N E V E R F O R G E T Xinotyro: This slightly

Niari: This is a soft, shape-

unsalted, fresh, soft and shapeless cheese, tyrovolia is made of sheep, goat and cow milk. It can be eaten as is, with a sprinkling of fleur de sel or a dollop of honey. It is also used in salads and is excellent in sweet or savory dishes, such as a Mykonos onion or honey pie.

sour cheese, made of sheep or cow milk, is sold in the form of a medium-sized head. When fresh, it is eaten as a table cheese and in salads or other dishes. When it is mature, it is perfect for grating over pasta and suits both a plain tomato and bolognese sauce.

less, light-yellow cheese that is very flavorful and aromatic. It is made with sheep and goat milk and arises from the process of making kopanisti which, when just a few days old, is called neari, meaning “young” in Greek.

Kopanisti: This P.D.O. Cycladic cheese is Mykonos’ most famous. Made of sheep and cow milk and fermented for at least 60 days, it’s soft and creamy, full-bodied, with a pungent aroma, a tangy mouthfeel, a peppery flavor and a powerful aftertaste, its diehard fans appreciate. Its strong flavor can be tempered by serving it with tomatoes and olive oil or beside summer fruits like watermelon, grapes or figs. It is often spread on a piece of soaked barley rusk, topped with tomato, olive oil and oregano – a local dish called mostra.

Tyrovolia: A white,

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mikonu brewery

The vineayrds of giorgos xydakis

WINE & BEER

Labors of Love A t o a s t t o t h e i s l a n d ’ s p a s s i o n at e w i n e m a k e r s a n d b r e w e r s .

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in the art, and produces some very interesting wines with an unusual character and temperament under the label Kipos Xydaki. (By appointment only. Tel. (+30) 6945.434.565) THE BIRTH OF A MYKONIAN BEER In 2016, two young brewers, Angelos Ferous and Jano Bako, joined forces with the esteemed oenologist and winemaker Yiannis Paraskevopoulos and the experienced salesman Yiannis Myzalis to create Mikònu, Mykonos’ first beer. The brewers use expensive and hard-to-find hops, Greek and Belgian malt, and a mix of three Belgian yeasts that brings about the fermentation they desire. They hope to brew 10,000 liters in the first year. “The brewery has its own well, so we have a good supply of water and don’t need to burden the island’s resources,” they explain. Mikònu produces two limited artisanal beers, fresh and unpasteurized. The Pale Ale is extremely pleasant, very summery, smoothly bitter-sweet and with hints of caramel. The Blonde Saison is the flagship and is sold in a 750ml bottle as well as the more common 330ml bottle. A complex beer full of mango, citron, rose, spice and banana on the nose, with a solid head and a silky mouthfeel, it pairs wonderfully with food. (By appointment only. Tel. (+30) 2289.077.912) - N i ko l e ta M a k r i o n i to u

STR ANGE NAMES, SPLENDID WINES The roots of winemaking on Mykonos go back to ancient times. Today, however, there are only two local producers of bottled wine, and their products are sold exclusively on the island. Both use rare native varieties that yield idiosyncratic wines with notes of the sea. Kountoura, Xeromacheroudi, Pariano and Kouforrogo are some of the lesser-known varieties being vinified, mainly in blends. Grapes that are very popular across the Cycladic islands, such as Assyrtiko, Mandilaria and Athiri, are also grown. Nikos Asimomytis’ Vioma Organic Farm has been producing three labels over the past two decades or so, from grapes grown in the family’s unirrigated vineyard in Maou in Ano Mera. Α visit to the farm is well worth it, if only to witness Asimomytis playing classical music to his vines over loud speakers. You will taste wines paired with local products and, if you’re there in September for the harvest, get a chance to look at the pressing of the grapes and to join in the fun. (By appointment only. Tel. (+30) 2289.071.883, 6974.120.069) At several restaurants and shops across the island you will also find wines produced by Giorgos Xydakis at his facility in Koutela. A dentist by profession, Xydakis has become a winemaker in earnest after spending several years dabbling

INDEX

International dialing code for Greece: (+30) • Price (per person, exc. wine): € less than €30; €€ less than €60; €€€ over €60 •

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r e s ta u r a n t s

pick your TABLE A culinary cornucopia awaits you on Mykonos. Here’s our shortlist of tried and true establishments for your dining pleasure. BY N I KO L E TA M A K R I O N I T O U & DIMITRIS ROUSOUNELOS

CHORA Amades Tiny, with a bohemian vibe and walls decorated with patrons’ quotes and drawings, this eatery on one of the island’s prettiest streets often hosts impromptu live music shows. Meatballs and other meze are followed by delicious staples prepared home-style by Georgia, the cook. For dessert try a classic yogurt topped with a dollop of sweet fruit preserve. € • 2 Kambani • Tel. (+30) 2289.078.801

Appaloosa A go-to for locals and visitors alike for the past 20 years, this place has a pleasant ambience and is always reliable in the quality of its food – ranging from BBQ chicken wings to kebab with yogurt sauce and Indonesian noodles to Indian chicken tikka masala. Great drinks, too. € • Mavrogeni, Goumenio Sq. • Tel. (+30) 2289.027.086

Bakalo

Bill & Coo

In a pretty space that resembles an Athenian inter-war taverna-cum-grocery store, chef Yiannis Gavalas prepares home-style food with creative twists using all the good stuff that the Cyclades have to offer. The cheesy bread ring with kopanisti cheese is his signature

dish; his moussaka is divine. Save space for desserts such as the nutty, syrupy baklava, which is among the best you’ll ever have. There’s a beautiful veranda if you prefer to sit outside. €€ • Lakka • Tel. (+30) 2289.078.121

Bakogia (or Gialos) A local favorite, this is where to go for an authentic experience of ouzo and great meze like roasted Mykonian sausage, mostra (rusks topped with juicy tomatoes and kopanisti cheese), fluffy omelets, freshly fried whitebait and crispy calamari. € • Gialos • Tel. (+30) 22890.235.52

Captain’s Tucked in among all the cafés overlooking the Old Port, this friendly kind of place is perfect for enjoying a relaxed ouzo and sharing all sorts of surf and turf meze, including the mussels in a mustard sauce and the lemony sausage hotplate. The drinks list features a selection of Greek beers, tsipouro and wines produced by local winemaker Giorgos Xydakis. € • Gialos • Tel. (+30) 2289.023.283

Catari Certified by Ospitalità Italiana for its authentic ingredients, exclusively Italian wines and even its Italian owners, this restau-

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rant-bar, located in a pretty garden near Gialos, screams Italy in every menu selection – from the thin-crust pizza with Sardinian bottarga to the handmade ravioli mezzaluna and the Sicilian dessert cannoli. €€ • Aghia Anna • Tel. (+30) 2289.078.571

Funky Kitchen Εlements from around the world are brought into classic Greek dishes, in a simple yet island-inspired space located on a relatively quiet side street. Highlights include the panna cotta of kopanisti cheese sprinkled with poppy seeds, dried figs and prosciutto from Evrytania, Central Greece; the zingy octopus carpaccio with capers from Syros; and the lamb cutlets with cumin-scented split-pea paste. The Sifnos honey pie with a dollop of sweet sour-cherry preserve and cinnamon ice cream is a must. €€ • Ignatiou Basoula • Tel. (+30) 2289.027.272

Kadena Mediterranean flavors dominate the menu of this all-day café-restaurant on the beach of the main town. We recommend the beef casserole, the fish soup and local specialties such as salad with tomato, barley rusks, mostra cheese, olive oil and oregano, or the risotto with cured louza pork, xinotyro 152

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Bakogia (or Gialos)

Mr Pug

cheese, leeks and celery. € • Gialos • Tel. (+30) 2289.029.290

Kalita Located in the beautiful courtyard of the Fresh Hotel, Kalita uses local products and serves Greek cuisine with international influences. Classics include the clay-roasted rack of suckling pig as well as more creative fare, like the gnocchi with San Michali cheese from Syros, the risotto with saffron from Kozani in northern Greece, and the yogurt panna cotta. €€ • 31 N. Kalogera •

Tel. (+30) 2289.027.102

Kazarma Originally a café-restaurant that made its mark in the Gialos area, Kazarma has evolved into a top-notch upmarket establishment. Chef Aris Haidari is in charge for a second consecutive year and his menu highlights include the pappardelle with oxtail and local xinotyri cheese, as well as the sea bass fricasseed with lettuce and chard. The desserts are also quite interesting, with selections like the strawberry gazpacho with vanilla ice cream. €€ • Gia-

grilled at what is the island’s oldest fish taverna, a favorite among locals and visitors for the past 40 years. Its dining area includes different small rooms and a yard. €€ • 1 Svoronou, Gialos • Tel. (+30) 2289.028.220

La Μaison de Catherine With a history spanning 45 years, this legendary Greco-French restaurant is one of Mykonos’ most popular. Its array of delights includes stuffed zucchini flowers and spinach pies, steamed mussels with double cream, and chateaubriand steak – all served in a pretty alleyway covered in bougainvillea. It also has a good wine list. €€€ • 1 Nikiou • Tel. (+30) 2289.022.169

Maereio A simple veranda in a small alley with just five or six tables makes up this cozy little taverna run by the Monogios family, who cook up authentic Mykonian dishes such as lamb fricassée, tomato fritters, snails braised in tomato sauce and rice with limpets or small crabs. € • 16 Kalogera •

los • Tel. (+30) 2289.028.256

Tel. (+30) 22890.288.25

Kounelas

Matsuhisa Mykonos

Handpick the fish you want to eat and enjoy a glass of wine and some salad while it’s being

Japanese cuisine meets South American flavors – beside the pool of the five-star Belve-

dere Hotel. Here, Japanese chef-restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa unleashes all of his creative powers in new-style dishes presented by head chef Nikos Skamnakis. Naturally, these include perfectly executed sushi as well as signature recipes like Matsuhisa’s legendary black cod miso, tiradito, salmon in a karashi su miso sauce, and frequent new menu additions. Excellent wine selections, vintage champagnes and exceptional cocktails. €€€ • School of Fine Arts District • Tel. (+30) 2289.025.122

M-eating Using local products and working them with great skill, chef Panagiotis Menardos prepares refined and creative Greek food. The style – both of the dishes and of the beautiful space – is an elegant combination of the contemporary and the rustic. Must-tries include the stuffed rabbit filet served with cauliflower purée and spinach pesto; the fresh ravioli stuffed with beef filet done in a tomato sauce, served with goat cheese and basil foam; and a dish called “Like the Mykonian Sun”, an egg cooked for five minutes in a sauce of sweet tomato and smoked lamb bacon, served with freshly toasted bread rolls and a light mousse of tyrovolia cheese. €€ • 10 Kalogera • Tel.

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Kalita

Wolves of Kitchen

(+30) 2289.078.550

this balcony with a view overlooking the Old Port. €€ • Yacht

Nautilus

Marina • Tel. (+30) 2289.022.955

This lovely venue celebrates local fare, such as cheeses from around the Cyclades, louza (cured pork) and fresh seafood, while also putting an emphasis on great service. We recommend the fresh fish linguini in a lemon sauce; the honey, orange and ginger-marinated chicken; and the crisp fresh salads. €€ • 1 Lakka Square • Tel. (+30)

Sale e Pepe This classic Italian restaurant is renowned for its award-winning wine list, featuring selections from Italy, France and Greece. Try the handmade pasta (the ravioli is amazing) with well-executed sauces, northern-inspired game dishes and the delicious seafood options. €€ • Lakka •

2289.027.100

Tel. (+30) 2289.024.207

Remezzo

Sea Satin Market

The view of Chora from the veranda is almost as enchanting as the food, particularly when the sun sets over the caique-dotted harbor. Try a cocktail before diving into dishes like Cycladic dakos (rusks with fresh tomato and soft white cheese), a vegetable mille-feuille that’s a play on the classic moussaka, or Greek-style stuffed tomatoes and pepper with a twist. €€€ • Polykandrioti • Tel. (+30)

This wonderful location, which appears to float above the sea right below the iconic windmills, is a favorite with the in-crowd. It specializes in gourmet Greek cuisine and fresh fish that is on display so you can pick your dinner. The dessert of loukoumades (dough fritters drenched in honey) is classic Greek, as is the music playing from the speakers. €€ • Little Venice • Τel.

Nikos Zervos, who highlights the Greek element by showcasing local products. Try the signature yellowfin tuna with beluga lentil sprouts, yogurt mousse, citrus oil and tangy ice plant. €€€ • School of Fine Arts District • Tel. (+30) 2289.025.122

AROUND CHORA Bill & Coo Chef Athinagoras Kostakos presents a refined version of Greek cuisine, with Mykonian and Cycladic references, at the stylish poolside dining area of the hotel with the same name. Menu highlights include the Delos sea urchin with couscous, garlic, ouzo and confit lemon; the bottarga with early-harvest olive oil; the cod fricassée with a majestic egg-lemon sauce; and the slow-cooked pancetta with kale that is inspired by a Mykonian classic. A high-caliber dining experience is guaranteed. €€€ • Megali Ammos Beach • Tel.

(+30) 2289.024.676

(+30) 2289.026.292

Thea Estiatorio

Joanna’s Niko’s Place

Set in the luxurious surroundings of the Belvedere Hotel, with an amazing view of Chora and the sea, Thea is the place to enjoy inspired modern Mediterranean cuisine from chef

The walk from Chora to Megali Ammos Beach is quite lovely, and this authentic Greek taverna is yet another reason to make it. Its delicious no-fuss dishes include staples like bat-

2289.025.700

Roca Cookery Celebrate the Aegean by enjoying Mediterranean cuisine and traditional recipes, including plenty of fish and other seafood from around the Cyclades, on 154

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ter-fried zucchini slices, fried calamari and whitebait, taramosalata (roe dip) and tzatziki, and all other lovely meze that go so well with a glass of ouzo or a cold beer. enjoy the great sunset atmosphere, often including impromptu live music. € • Megali Ammos Beach • Tel. (+30) 2289.024.251

K for Kiku & Kiku Cavo Tagoo A strong Athenian team that spends its summers in Mykonos presents refined and creative Nikkei cuisine at two separate spots: one at a beautiful poolside location with sea views at the Cavo Tagoo Hotel and the other in the middle of Chora, in a setting perfectly in synch with the island’s vibe. €€€ • Kiku Cavo Tagoo • Tel. (+30) 2289.020.200 • K for Kiku • 47 Matoyianni • Tel. (+30) 2289.022.881

The Liberty Breakfast Room Looking to promote local certified products from small-scale producers around the Cycladic islands, the Liberty team is relying on the philosophy of simplicity. Vangelis Pelekis (who runs the kitchen) allows the – mainly organic – ingredients

Kiku Cavo Tagoo

to shine by fussing with them as little as possible, favoring low-heat cooking and a lot of raw options. Likewise, the coffee beans come from selected farms and most of the reasonably priced wines are from Cycladic producers. Don’t miss the very enticing breakfast. €€ • New Peripheral Road, Vougli • Tel. (+30) 2289.024.005

Mr Pug Whether you choose to dine outside in the cool courtyard or in the elegant dining room, the combination of modern lines with ethnic elements is a winner. Like the décor, chef George Venieris’ dishes are an amazing fusion of Asia and Greece, executed with technical mastery and an eye for presentation. The steamed buns with satay chicken are light as air and crab cakes wrapped in fine kataifi pastry are a crunchy delight. €€ • New Peripheral Road, Argyrena • Tel. (+30) 2289.077.771

FURTHER OUT Avli tou Thodori Greek-chic is the motto in this pretty courtyard venue just a few steps from the beach, where Greek cuisine is transformed in modern dishes such as tomato fritters with a feta cheese sauce and fresh oregano, or the salad of watermelon and salty feta, enriched with mint leaves, rusk and an ouzo-based dressing. €€ • Platys Gialos Beach • Tel. (+30) 2289.078.100

Balothies Using Cretan products and recipes, this meze restaurant has the kind of laid-back atmosphere that is always popular with Greeks. Start your meal with either the koukouvagia salad (barley rusks topped with grated tomatoes, feta and olive oil), the Mykonos sausage or the Cretan fennel leaf pie, followed by the handmade makarounes pasta with smoked apaki (pork) and a tomato salad, snails sautéed in rosemary and the fried rabbit. Finish up with a dessert of Sfakia cheese pie dolloped with thyme-scented honey. € • Ornos • Tel. (+30) 2289.077.701

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Bowl An extremely likable Australian couple has this year introduced to Mykonos the global food trend of everything in one bowl. Healthy food is what it’s all about, with super-food, gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options, all selected in collaboration with a professional nutritionist. € • New Peripheral Road, Ornos • Tel. (+30) 2289.077.659

Fokos A family-owned restaurant with loyal clientele, located on one of the island’s quietest beaches. Fokos is known for its crispy salads and hot appetizers, and the wonderful surf and turf concept that mixes the flavors of fish, seafood and grilled meats. Highlights include the hummus with Arabic pita bread, the black-eyed pea salad and the grilled calamari served with a peppery rocket salad with Mykonian louza (cured pork) and figs. €€ • Fokos Beach • Tel.

with its Greek and Mediterranean menu, as well as with its wine list. Specialties include the lobster spaghetti, the grilled king crab legs, the fresh sea urchin with a salad of citrus and parsley and the shrimp risotto. €€ • Paraga Beach • Tel. (+30) 2289.023.397

Kensho The Kensho Boutique Hotel & Suites opened last year and has hired experienced Greek chef George Stylianoudakis to deliver creative Greek cuisine at its finest. The restaurant offers two gastronomy menus and one à la carte, where you won’t find extravagant molecular applications or exotic plating; instead, high-caliber culinary techniques, combined with the optimal use of local and Greek products, bring a whole new freshness to traditional recipes. This year renowned pastry chef Dimitris Chronopoulos also comes on board, bringing a menu of highend desserts. €€€ • Ornos • Tel.

(+30) 6944.644.343

(+30) 2289.029.001

Kalua

La Cucina di Daniele

A popular summer destination on Paraga Beach for over a decade, Kalua draws the crowds

The hospitable Tuscan owner of this elegant Italian osteria prepares refined dishes from his

advertorial

Sale e Pepe

Bakalo

Fokos A no t h e r k i nd o f P arad i s e

birthplace with wonderful seasonal ingredients from smallscale producers back home. A second branch called DA is opening and will serve a similar style of cuisine. €€ • Ano Mera • Tel. (+30) 2289.071.513

Liasti This is perfect summer setting at one of the island’s loveliest beaches, with a chilled-out atmosphere and a medley of Mediterranean and more exotic dishes served right by the sea. It’s the perfect place for a light lunch or a sunset apéritif, followed by dinner; the menu includes seafood, grilled meat, wraps, pasta and more. €€ • Lia Beach • Tel. (+30) 2289.072.150

Limnios A classic taverna and grill that is open all year round, this is a favorite hangout for locals and regular visitors. Many of the dishes are prepared with locally sourced meat, with specialties including succulent lamb chops, mom-style moussaka and finger-licking stuffed vine leaves. € • Aghios Stefanos • Tel. (+30) 2289.027.814

Lounda (Pikantiki Gonia) Ukrainian proprietor and cook Lounda Onouferko has staunchly resisted jet-set chic and prepares simple, delicious food in a cozy, homey space. Based on traditional Cycladic cuisine, but with a daily Russian-Ukrainian delicacy to tempt patrons, her menu features hearty dishes like succulent spit-roasted pork or pork marinated in juicy summer tomatoes. € • Glastros • Tel. (+30) 2289.027.238

Markos This is an old-school family taverna, with Greek music playing on the stereo, polite hosts and a simple menu that emphasizes on fresh fish and other seafood. It has been a favorite among locals since opening in 1982, at a spot above the small harbor where the fishing boats tie up. Try the fish soup with the catch of the day, the scorpion fish salad, the delectable fried shrimp and the grilled fish. € • Kalafatis • Tel. (+30) 2289.071.771

Mathios This local favorite right at the entrance to the port of Tourlos

Fokos is a rare gem of a Mykonian beach; a remote, untamed natural beauty, far from the crowds, that enjoys a unique air of privacy. To reach it, follow the road signs to Fokos from Ano Mera, look for the wind turbine on your right and take the scenic road that guides you through farmland. Let the crystal-clear waters and the warmth of the sun build your appetite, and then join us at the recently renovated Fokos Taverna for an unforgettable meal. At Fokos, we believe in lovingly preparing food just as our families have done for generations. Our delectable menu features delicacies inspired by traditional Mykonian and Mediterranean cuisine, made with only the freshest, seasonal ingredients. Our grill-master is ready to prepare for you the most scrumptious grilled meats, shrimp and fish fresh from the sea, paired with exquisite Greek wines from our thoughtfully prepared wine list. To complete the experience, we suggest you try one of our mouthwatering homemade desserts.

• Tel.

(+30) 6944.644.343 • Email: taboul52@yahoo.ca Beach Mykonos • Opening hours: 13:00-19:00 Instagram: fokos_mykonos • Facebook: Fokos Mykonos • Fokos

Nesaea

Matsuhisa Mykonos

M-eating

always has a large variety of well-prepared dishes, including classics like taramosalata (roe dip), scorpionfish soup, Mykonian onion pie and oven-baked staples like moussaka and stuffed tomatoes and peppers. € • Tourlos • Tel. (+30) 2289.022.344

Nesaea Veteran chef Christos Athanasiadis has gone all out at this modern Mykonian restaurant, located at a wonderful vantage point with a sea view. Start with crunchy chips made from the skin of a gilt-head bream, accompanied by a dip of squid ink and wasabi aioli, or try the beetroot cooked in different ways to bring out different textures, which comes with raspberry relish. For the main course, try the octopus sous-vide with split-pea purée, or the crispy calamari with truffle and eggplant purée in a squid ink sauce. The nougat parfait – a play on the traditional mandolato biscuit – is the perfect way to wrap up your meal. €€ • Aghia Anna, Kalafatis • Tel. 158

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(+30) 2289.072.130

NTekoto Mykonian cook Nikolas Antonopoulos has built a reputation among locals and visitors for his bold and flavor-packed creations, which rely on traditional recipes, but with a personal twist. The plats du jour are always recommended as they are made with seasonal vegetables, wild greens and fresh fish. Other highlights include the vine leaves stuffed with smoky grilled metsovone and Chios mastelo cheeses, the stuffed squid with cheeses from Cyclades and sweet red pepper, and the homemade pasta with prawns in a creamy lemon sauce. € • Ano Mera • (+30)

succulent spit-roasted pig, juicy lamb chops and traditional oilrich dishes like eggplant imam, while the meze consist of nibbles such as kasseri cheese pie, chicken salad and fragrant fried meatballs. € • Ano Mera • Tel. (+30) 2289.071.534

Pasaji In a glamorous setting under palm trees by the sea, highlighted by elegant lighting and sophisticated art de la table, chefs Aris Tsanaklidis, George Vidalis and Giannis Chrisochoidis have joined forces in a celebration of traditional Greek products used in creative fusion recipes, that were inspired by exotic destinations. €€ • Ornos Beach • Tel. (+30) 2289.023.216

2289.072.110

Oti Apomeine A great authentic taverna, it may indeed be named “Leftovers,” but only because you’ll probably ask for your leftovers to be wrapped up to go at the end of the meal. Specialties include

Reeza @ Rocabella With an amazing view of Chora, the poolside restaurant of the Rocabella Hotel boasts high-end cuisine conceived by award-winning chef Gikas Xenakis and executed by his talented sous-chef Stefanos

Tsoukalas. The menu serves as something of an initiation into contemporary Greek cuisine, with dishes such as the softboiled egg served with a potato and truffle cream and sausage, the pasticcio made with rigatoni, lamb and Naxos arseniko cheese, and the octopus and orzo casserole. €€ • Aghios Stefanos • Tel. (+30) 2289.028.930

Wolves of Kitchen This is a new arrival helmed by chef Alsi Sin (of Cinco, Oozora, Mr Pug and Kolonaki Red Door fame, among others), who imports his own premium Black Angus beef from Creekstone Farms in the US and Simmental beef that he dry-ages in-house in a special fridge. The menu features gems such as flank steak, tri-tips, tomahawks and porterhouses, as well as interesting appetizers including roasted eggplant with Mykonian cheese and salads made with locally sourced vegetables. The wine list is designed to match the food on offer. €€ • Ornos • Tel. (+30) 2289.023.529

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