GREECE IS | SANTORINI | 2018 by GREECE IS

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SANTORINI

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ISSN: 2529-041X

ISSUE #28 | 2018 edition

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W E L C O ME

Let’s hear what social media influencers say about Santorini; focus on some real issues; and look at some amazing photos of what makes the island special.

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D ISC OVE R

You’ll probably have some volcano questions to ask; let’s get those answered before we take a journey through the history of the island.

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The more popular Santorini becomes, the more reluctantly locals reveal their secrets. Thankfully, we found a few who were eager to share.

Find out why everyone’s making a fuss over Santorini wines, learn more about the local wineries and see what’s on the menu of the island’s best restaurants.

EX PERIENCE

TAS T E

«Lions to me symbolize bravery», Cara Delevingne Shot in real conditions by David Yarrow Discover more on Youtube and on tagheuer.com/cara TAG HEUER CARRERA LADY SANTORINI: PONIROS

welcome

ONE ISLAND, TWO WORLDS To really know Santorini, you have to turn the postcard over. B Y G I O R G O S T S I R O S / editor - I N - C H I E F, G R E E C E I S

The awards keep rolling in for Santorini. Just a few days before this magazine went to print, in fact, it was named “Best Island in Europe” by the Leisure Lifestyle Awards 2018 of the American Global Traveler magazine. The tourism season is getting longer, reaching nine months, hotels are filling up and flights are increasing in frequency. Social media influencers are garnering thousands of “likes” with their shots of its sunsets and gorgeous meals set to the backdrop of the caldera. The tourism industry continues to purr along – generating wealth and thousands of jobs. People from all over Greece are moving to the island for work, some bringing their families with them and some creating families there: the school-age population grows by some 150 children a year. This injection of new blood brings vitality to the local community. The big event last May, which inevitably went unnoticed by tourists, was the 2nd Student Festival, organized by the Thera Municipality Cultural Committee – a small group of volunteers – in cooperation with the schools of Santorini and Therasia. The islands’ children threw themselves into the event with gusto, and hundreds of locals flocked to the Santorini Arts Factory to applaud their performances and praise their works of art. It was an expression of a creative force that needs more outlets to really grow.

Every coin, however, has two sides. Construction continues unabated, yet there is a shortage of housing for the people who make the island function (educators, doctors and other public servants). Rental rates are out of reach as landlords look to use their properties for tourism accommodation. Agriculture – which has helped build Santorini’s rich heritage in food and wine – is under threat as arable land becomes increasingly scarce. Development is damaging the natural environment and encroaching on the traditional way of life. Santorini is such a good servant to its image that it’s at risk of losing its true identity. A hard core of active individuals that either hail from the island or have adopted it as their own are trying to restore the balance. They seek to salvage the past and create the foundations for a more sustainable future. If someone really wants to get to know this incredible destination – a bucket-list dream for millions of people around the world – they need to explore both sides: the history and the luxury; the vineyards and the expensive caldera-view restaurants; the boutiques on the Oia shopping strip and the maritime and folklore museums, which usually get just a handful of visitors; the flawless service and the authentic local spirit, which is usually laid bare only at church festivals. It is the combination of all these aspects that really makes Santorini unique.

Locals gather for the celebration of the feast day of Aghios Georgios Katefios. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

welcome

Aegean Islands: Like No Other The South Aegean is the perfect vacation destination. B Y G eorge H at z i m ar k os / R E G I O N A L G o v ernor of the S o u th A egean

With millions of visitors every year and with destinations that are among the most famous and beloved worldwide, the South Aegean is the dominant force in Greek tourism and a powerful presence in the global tourism market.

visitors the possibility of living authentic experiences in 50 different destinations, each one with its own unique identity. While these may belong to the same geographic area, in reality they constitute 50 different options.

Every year, the South Aegean receives the lion’s share of tourist traffic in Greece; it’s responsible for approximately 30% of the country’s tourism revenue. And in this period of major changes and upheaval to the status quo across the globe, it remains a nexus of challenges and opportunities. It’s the region that will take the lead in the coming years on the road towards growth and development.

That’s not all. We’re continually enriching our brand with all of those elements that precisely reflect our true identity, highlighting as many aspects of our multifaceted touristic product as possible. Our selection as the European Region of Gastronomy for 2019 helps us promote the exceptional gastronomy of the islands, as well as our rich cultural heritage and the destinations that offer authentic travel experiences.

The uniqueness of our islands constitutes the core of the competitive differentiation of our touristic product, and this forms the basis for our strategy. In the Region of the South Aegean, we approach tourism with the seriousness that is demanded by the lifeblood of the Greek economy; we’re planning for tomorrow and seeking to claim it on terms that befit a leader. Our goal is to demonstrate what the South Aegean truly is: unique, multifaceted, and unsurpassable. Everything one could want from their vacation is offered here in abundance. Dozens of gorgeous islands, each with its own particular set of characteristics, can satisfy every possible demand and transform one’s vacation into a special and personally satisfying experience. The South Aegean offers

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Our philosophy as a regional administration is to make use of every opportunity that can lead to the further strengthening of the tourism sector on our islands, which will contribute to the recovery of the Greek economy. We’re taking the lead in charting a local tourism strategy which, by extension, is part of the national tourism strategy. We are aiming for the top and we are succeeding. We’ll accept nothing less for the region with the some of the strongest tourism brands worldwide, and with dozens of islands that add substance to the concept of “uniqueness.” “Aegean Islands: Like No Other” is the identity of the South Aegean; it is the identity of Greece!

Contents Greece I s - ISS U E # 2 8 s a n t o r i n i 2 0 1 8 E D I T IO N

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142

14. learning the lingo Local terms explained in brief.

42. the basics A crash course on what the island is all about.

past and build a sustainable future for Santorini.

16. so many likes What makes Santorini so likeable? Some of the most influential Instagrammers and bloggers tell us.

Discover

106. insider Craig Walzer, owner of the famous bookshop Atlantis Books, spills some of the island’s secrets.

54. science A beginner’s guide to the volcano.

22. Reality check The truth behind Santorini’s rampant tourism development.

62. timeline From the first prehistoric settlers to mid-20th century landmarks showcasing the island’s industrial past.

32. cool and calm Impressions and insights on why Santorini deserves a visit in the heart of winter.

82. eyewitness Photographer Robert McCabe remembers his first visit to Santorini in 1954.

38. art The island’s rich cultural scene.

90. THE DREAMERS Six passionate islanders who strive to preserve the

Experience

116. sunset oia sailing cruises Simply the best way to enjoy the island. 122. out of the ordinary When you’ve had enough rest and relaxation, there’s a whole gamut of outdoor activities to choose from.

132. the northern star Oia is what comes to mind when we think of Santorini.

Taste

142. WINE Konstantinos Lazarakis, Master of Wine, looks at why foreign markets are seeking out Santorini wines. 150. oenotourism The grand tour of the island’s wineries. 158. restaurants From local tavernas to five-star venues, this island has it all.

ON THE COVER: On the rooftops of Pyrgos, the best-preserved medieval settlement on Santorini. (Photo: Vangelis Zavos)

ISSN: 2529-041X published by:

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W E L C OM E G L O S S A R Y

What’s What?

Santorini’s trademarks explained in brief BY VOU L A DI D ON I , A RC H I T E C T

Churches There are about 600 churches of all sizes on Santorini. You’ll even see tiny chapels sandwiched between homes in the narrow alleys of settlements. Why so many? Because the island’s sailors, when they were at sea, would vow to build a church upon their safe return.

Kapetanospita Literally “captains’ houses,” these were residences for wealthy merchants or shipowners, built in the late 19th century, a time of great prosperity and cultural development for the island. Usually twostoried, the houses had storage areas and wine cellars on the ground floor, and spacious parlors and bedrooms on the upper floor. Oia’s kapetanospita are particularly noteworthy for their combination of austere geometric simplicity and Renaissance elements.

Canaves Traditional wine cellars for both making and storing wine, canaves were usually built underground or into the rock, primarily within settlements, with one or more vaulted ceilings and separate areas for pressing white and red grapes. 14

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Kouloura The kouloura is the product of the traditional method of training vines to form round “baskets” on the ground, protecting the grapes from the wind and the hot sun.

Blue domes The church domes here were not originally blue. They were painted this color to match the blue of the sky and the Aegean sea, and have become the island’s trademark.

Yposkafa The most distinctive architectural feature of Santorini, these are long narrow dwellings dug right into the volcanic rock, with vaulted ceilings and, occasionally, domes. These “cave homes” often have exterior additions built from the same volcanic materials and display both remarkable ingenuity in terms of construction and an eyecatching sculptural quality.

Kasteli A fortified settlement built when Santorini was under Venetian rule, each kasteli (castle) helped protect inhabitants from raids. Densely packed houses, with few openings to the outside, formed closed rings within a fortress-like structure. Of the original five kastelia at Oia, Fira, Pyrgos, Emporio and Akrotiri, only the last three have been preserved.

ILLUSTRATIONS: PHILIPPOS AVRAMIDES

Caldera From the Spanish for “cooking pot,” a caldera is a massive depression created when a volcano collapses. The geological history of the Aegean is written on the steep slopes and cliffs of the caldera of Santorini.

W E L C OM E T R E N D I N G

SO MANY We asked some of the most influential Instagrammers and bloggers what makes Santorini so special. B Y PAU L I N A B J O R K- K A P S A L I S

hey document their stays at luxurious hotels and their colorful mouthwatering breakfasts on balconies high above the sea, and they shoot photos of their outfits on the steps of the narrow alleys. What’s more: they usually come back. One of the reasons bloggers and Instagrammers love Santorini is how easy it is to create quality content here. There’s a never-ending supply of great backdrops and these deft hands have even found ways to avoid the crowds to get the best photos of the sunset and the caldera. To end up with an amazing fashion post from Santorini, all you really need to do is show up. One company, Santorini Dress, provides photographers and flowing dresses designed to go perfectly with the overall aesthetic of the island. There are also photographers who arrange photo tours to all the best spots. One of them, Olaf Reinen, also offers what he calls “phonetography tours,” where you shoot with your phone and get expert tips on editing and uploading. He says the iconic blue domes and the

Michelle Chu

California @michutravel 318k+ followers Runs the travel blog: “Michu Travel”

It’s best to travel before June or after September, because it’s crowded and hot at the peak of summer. But if you happen to visit in July or August, definitely explore early and relax in the afternoon. To avoid venturing out, pick a hotel that has a nice view so you can catch the beautiful sunset from your balcony. 16

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sea views are so photogenic, they always make a feed look more picturesque, and one blogger or Instagrammer inspires the next. Thankfully, most cafés, restaurants, and hotels on Santorini offer good wi-fi, but for instant uploads to blogs and social media, Reinen carries a 4G hotspot with him on the tours. Obviously, returning home with good photo material is a priority for bloggers and Instagrammers, but Reinen warns people not to go too far. “Be respectful,” he says, “the locals don’t appreciate people climbing into their properties or standing on churches.” The caldera is spectacular, but large and difficult to photograph well. Bloggers don’t like panoramas, but vloggers try to capture the atmosphere with sweeping shots of it at sunset. In the twilight hour, when the soft-looking, white walls of Oia’s houses reflect the blue of the sky, the sea and the illuminated infinity pools, most tourists head out to dinner. The bloggers stay at the spots they’ve chosen for the evening, to capture the view without the crowds.

W E L C OM E T R E N D I N G

Miss May

Sydney @hellomissmay 216k+ followers Runs the blog: “Hello Miss May”

The quaint streets with little white houses and blue doors are made even prettier with blooming bougainvillea. I could explore all the little pathways for days. But even the hotels, built into the side of the cliffs and serving beautifully plated breakfasts in view of the caldera, are all extremely Instagrammable.

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David Biedert

Zurich @davidbiedert 33k+ followers PHOTOGRAPHER Shoots for bloggers and blog campaigns

“Highlights of our trip were definitely the great seafood, which we loved, and our day of sailing along the coast of the island, which was great fun. We went snorkeling and had a barbecue with grilled veggies, fish, meat, and potatoes, before watching a romantic sunset from the boat.”

W E L C OM E T R E N D I N G

Charlotte Fisher

Isle of Wight/London @charlottefisher 88k+ followers Runs the blog: “Things I Do, Think and Buy”

Claudia Sartorelli Rome @claudiasartorelliblog 70k+ followers YouTube vlogger

“The colors are amazing, and the sea backdrop everywhere you go is almost stupefying. Walk a lot and experience the lunar-like volcanic landscape. Also, while this isn’t the Caribbean, it’s worth seeing the underwater landscape as well, so bring your scuba gear.”

Every time I visit Santorini it’s busier. To avoid the overwhelming crowds, I love getting up early to see the sunrise. It’s so special, and quieter than sunset. This photo was shot at sunrise, on a pathway that’s normally way too crowded. The sunsets are best appreciated from private locations.

Tara Edwards Toronto @luxe_tourista 41k+ followers

“My favorite experience was sipping on some local wine while watching the sunset from Oia. I was surprised by the fact that they can grow grapes in the volcanic soil to make wine, and I had never tasted wine as unique as that produced on Santorini. I took six bottles home!” 20

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W E L C OM E F O C U S

REALITY CHECK The tug-of-war between sustainability and tourism development on Santorini. BY GIORG O S T SI RO S

I. CONSTRUCTION The Thera Municipal Authority is regularly flooded with applications for permits for building construction, building expansion or modification of their use. This is the grim reality on one of the world’s most popular islands. As more and more concrete is poured, traditional settlements find themselves under siege. In some villages, in fact, new constructions account for up to 90% of all buildings. From 2004 to 2015, the number of hotel beds grew by 50% while, in the last eight years, the island’s population has shot up from 15,000 to 25,000. Just last February, CNN listed Santorini among 12 destinations that travelers might want to avoid. This is, without a doubt, an island under pressure. Mayor Nikos Zorzos feels this pressure all too keenly. Last December, at the annual “Santorini in Athens” meeting hosted by the Acropolis Museum, he issued yet another warning about

the dangers of overdevelopment and asked for limits to be set on construction before the island loses all of its unique charms. Some well-intentioned entrepreneurs on Santorini agree with the mayor privately, but urge him not to rock the boat. Others accuse him of sabotaging tourism. Yet Zorzos insists that these problems should not be swept under the carpet – even though he knows that he’s facing an uphill battle.

II. CRUISE SHIPS One fight which Santorini’s mayor already seems to be winning after years of effort is for the gradual implementation of a berth allocation system, to put a cap of 8,000 on the number of cruise visitors the island receives per day. For years, maximum daily numbers reached as high as 20,000, causing incredible congestion and hassle for visitors and residents alike. This year,

Years ago, fortunes were made in the souvenir business on the island.

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W E L C OM E F O C U S

A cruise ship passenger setting foot on Santorini.

Manolis Sigalas, one of the island’s farmers.

that problem is expected to occur on just five or six specific dates. One of these is June 13, when the port of Athinios is bracing to receive five cruise ships (operated by Royal Caribbean, Celebrity, MSC, Costa and Norwegian), each carrying between 2,000 and 3,500 passengers. Santorini has a love-hate relationship with cruise tourism. Artist Christoforos Asimis remembers how back in the 1950s, the island’s children would present arriving cruise passengers with flowers and bid them happy sailing by lighting small lanterns along the steps from Fira to Yialos harbor, offering them a beautiful farewell spectacle. An increase in arrivals in the early ‘70s, mainly of Americans intrigued by news of the work being done at the Akrotiri excavation, proved to be the spark for the tourism boom. “There was only a handful of souvenir shops, and they brought their wares in from Monastiraki in Athens and sold them at insane prices,” Asimis says. “There were two Cretan families that sold handmade rugs and throws. The post office in Fira was piled high with them. There were packages of them everywhere, waiting to be sent all over the world. These small merchants eventually invested their profits in the hotel business.” It was an era of opportunity for everyone. “In 1973, just after my military service, Eleni [his wife, a sculptor] and I opened a

small gallery to show our work. We paid 1,000 drachmas rent a year. One of the cruise ship guides took a liking to us and started bringing us small groups on the weekends. I spent the week doing watercolors and sold out everything I’d done every Saturday. We must have made around 83,000 drachmas in that year alone. It allowed us to start our home.” Times have changed. Cruise ship tourism has become a mass market and the vessels just keep getting bigger. They can no longer tie up at the much-beleaguered port of Athinios (an environmental impact study was recently approved for its long-anticipated reconstruction) nor, of course, at Yialos, which serves Fira. So what happens? A company operating a fleet of sea shuttles, each carrying 120-150 passengers, takes organized groups from the cruise ships to the port of Athinios, where they board buses for half-day and full-day tours. Another company takes individual tourists to Yialos, where they can arrange for their own tour and head up to the main town by cable car or donkey. At the KTEL bus station at 07:00 sharp we met with Yiannis Marinos from TravelWay, a tour organizer who specializes in cruise ship passengers, and boarded one of the 120 (!) large touring buses that currently serve the island, together with about 15 guides (mostly expats living on Santorini). Our bus headed to

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Celebrating the feast day of Aghios Georgios Katefios.

A luxury that became a necessity for Santorini hotels.

Athinios, where passengers from the MSC Musica, a cruise ship with a capacity of 2,550, were expected. On the way, we were briefed on the itinerary, which had been planned down to the minute: Akrotiri, Oia, Santo Wines, Fira and back to Athinios. The sea was calm, the port workers were on hand to help the passengers (many of whom were elderly) disembark from the shuttles, and the process of getting around 800 people to shore and into their designated buses went smoothly. This isn’t always the case. When a number of cruise ships and passenger ferries arrive at the same time, or when choppy seas make disembarkation trickier, traffic congestion at the port and huge queues at the Yialos cable car make for a rough start to the Santorini experience. The question is: at the end of the day, what does Santorini get from all this? The lion’s share of the profits stays with the ships. According to data from the Bank of Greece, in 2016 Santorini’s revenue from approximately 800,000 cruise ship visitors was

just €43.7 million pre-tax – about €50 per person. III. JACUZZIS AND POOLS Revenues are staggeringly higher from the luxury hospitality sector, which sees cruise ship tourism as damaging to the island. But luxury accommodation on Santorini has come to mean private swimming pools and Jacuzzis that allow visitors to enjoy a soak while gazing out at the caldera. “We are 99 percent to blame for this,” admits Manolis Darzentas, a former ship engineer who opened Santorini’s leading pool construction firm some 30 years ago. His company is renowned for making sure that even the smallest pools (1.20x1.60m) they install are built-in, giving them a far classier look than the standard, aboveground plastic models. He can’t remember how many pools and Jacuzzis he’s installed to date: “If 500 to 600 are put in every year on the island, then we’re responsible for 300 of them.” The technical challenges are daunting, there’s no margin for error, time limits are always tight and some clients have

Do you know that we have units that go for as much as €20,000 a day, with private chefs and butlers? And there are people who are happy to pay that, and more who would like to.

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W E L C OM E F O C U S

Buskers await their audience in Fira.

Katina Preka (Venizelou), at her home in Megalochori.

tastes that can only be described as bizarre. On the other hand, “you can’t have a luxury hotel in Santorini without pools,” says Darzentas. “Access to the beaches isn’t easy and any visitor’s dream is to stay in a suite where they can soak in a private pool or Jacuzzi while enjoying the view.” Tour operators demand this amenity from hoteliers, and offering it can push up room rates by four or fives times. Even though he is one of the links in the chain of building activity here, Darzentas believes that, for Santorini’s survival, construction needs to be strictly regulated. “It needs to be fair, though. When everyone has done their own thing, you can’t just punish the last guy to come along. If one guy wants to paint his property blue, the other green and the other red so they stand out, you need to stop that,” he says. “I believe that, overall, Santorini is inexpensive for what it is. Do you know that we have units that go for as much as €20,000 a day, with private chefs and butlers? And there are people who are happy to pay

that and more who would like to. But we need to upgrade our infrastructure – the airport, ports and roads; our public face, in other words – if we want to demand that kind of money. We are the hottest thing around right now, but we have to invest.”

IV. KATINA: WITNESS TO A BYgONE ERA “Do you like how Santorini’s become?” I ask Katina, a resident of Megalochori who was kind enough to open her home to us one afternoon, showing us into the small living room where she spends much of her day in the company of old photographs and her TV. “No, I don’t,” she says. “We used to go to Fira by donkey, but now you can’t go anywhere unless you’ve got a car. I know families where the father, the mother and the son each have their own car.” Katina has four brothers and has worked since she was 10 years old. “We had mules, cows, rabbits and pigs. It was my

“When we were kids, we used to look down at the sea from the cliffs. for us, it was as though the whole world was like that. I was amazed when I went to the beach for the first time.” 28

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FINE ART

ITS

FINEST

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Congestion at sunset in Oia.

The Folk Museum.

job to take care of them. I also worked out in the field, weeding and thinning out the tomato plants. I got married and there was no better man than my husband, but he was old; 54 to my 27. He died within 10 years and left me with three children. I did everything to provide for them. I sold car parts, worked at the Boutaris Winery, cleaned homes and worked in bakeries. By the grace of God, I built two homes for my children.” Katina represents a part of Santorini that is at risk of being lost forever. Visitors to the island today may find it hard to believe that there are families who once had their main residence in Fira and a summer home in Exo Gonia or Messaria, and that they traveled between them by donkey. I think back on something amazing that Christoforos Asimis had said, and it seems equally impossible: “When we were kids, we used to look down at the sea from the cliffs, and for us it was as though the whole world was like that. I was amazed when I went to the beach for the first time at the age of six; I was looking at the sparkling surface of the sea, and it was as if all the world’s silver was spread out before me.”

found shelter here after being banished by her father, who disapproved of her beau; another is about a captain whose prayers for calm seas during a storm were answered, and so on. Like many churches in Santorini, this one is owned by a family; it is their duty to host the annual celebration of the saint. Martha Katavari-Koutsogiannopoulou, a pensioner who lives in Pyrgos, keeps the tradition alive. As the feast day of Aghios Georgios approaches, she struggles up the rocky path again and again, carrying everything she needs to get the church ready. On the big day, young and old come together in a festivity that keeps a part of the old way of life alive. They eat fried fish, chick-pea and tomato casserole with sausages, slices of local graviera cheese and hunks of sourdough bread. The wine flows freely. They share news and jokes, they dance and sing – as they have always done. But will the next generation put in the same effort?

V. THE CHURCH FESTIVAL We get a tiny taste of what it was like to get around Santorini back in the day on our way up a rugged path from Pyrgos to the small church of Aghios Georgios Katefios, which was built in the 18th century in honor of Saint George and nicknamed either after the Greek word “katafigio” (refuge), or “katifeia” (which means melancholy), as it receives little sun. There are myriad legends about this chapel: one concerns a princess who 30

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VI. THE FOLKLORE MUSEUM Architect Jenny Kyritsi runs the Manolis Lignos Folklore Museum in Kontochori in Fira. A lawyer and former publisher of the now-defunct local newspaper Therian News, Lignos turned his mid-19th-century ancestral home into a veritable “time machine.” The exhibits here capture perfectly how the people of Santorini lived some 150 years ago, and Jenny is always on hand to tell the story of every object. Anyone who truly loves Santorini and is interested in knowing more than just what the postcards show should make a stop here. But how many do? Santorini is indeed one of the world’s most beautiful islands. But there’s so much more to it than meets the eye.

W E L C OM E I M P R E S S I O N S

A toast to winter The editor of the wine magazine Oenochoos recounts a January visit to her favorite island. B y M e r o p i Pa p a d o p o u l o u

I reached Santorini one cold, sunny morning, on Ai Yiannis’ (St John’s) Day, on January 7. But before I realized full well what was going on, I found myself inside a traditional little room dug into the rock (yposkafo) – which belonged to a church in Megalochori and was used for feast day celebrations – eating meat and potatoes cooked in a tomato sauce 32

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(kokkinisto) and drinking Santorinian wine instead of a morning coffee! This was a “Welcome to Santorinian normalcy” moment, an introduction to authentic life on the island, to a Santorini having rested from its unbearable touristic burden, to become one which could now move – even if for a very brief period of time – at an everyday pace and allow us to enjoy the place just the way we’d like to. The sea glittered in the waveless caldera, and the sparkling villages were clean and spotless, washed by the rains and dried by the north wind. I walked around admiring the vineyards, which showcase their other selves during this season. The vines are trimmed and intertwined to form a protective wreath surrounding the plant. These kouloures are spread out across the countryside, and are a work of art of everyday life; they wait patiently for the arrival of

spring, which will bring with it tendrils and – slowly but surely – the new fruit. Santo Wines’ facilities are perched on the road between Pyrgos and Athinios. The tasting room is open and welcomingly warm; a perfect place for a glass of Assyrtiko, and a view that leaves you breathless, awakening the poet in you! Walking along the brow of the cliff, we traversed Fira, making a pilgrimage stop at the Museum of Prehistoric Thera, before heading to Imerovigli and the Heliotopos Hotel which, fortunately for us, remains open all year round. A feast of Santorinian wines and a gathering of our closest friends awaited us in the hotel’s atmospheric yposkafo wine bar. We raised our glasses and chatted well into the night, catching up on everything. Winter is the best season for curious travelers: that’s when you hear all the news! This is my special Santorini!

W E L C OM E I N S I G H T

OPEN YEAR-ROUND History, amazing landscapes and, of course, great wine, are not just for summer on Santorini. By Kosta s Konsta n t i n i di s

Five years ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find 30 hotels on Santorini that stayed open in winter. This year, there were 150 that did. The island enjoys the longest tourist season in Greece, and its wintertime visitors will discover different charms. Establishing Santorini as a year-round destination was a goal pursued by the Municipal Authority and aided by the decision made by Aegean Airlines to put on at least two return flights per day 34

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from Athens (Ryanair subsequently tacked on two flights of its own). Each year, more and more businessowners, mainly in Fira, Firostefani, Imerovigli and Oia, decide to remain open, even in the heart of winter – that is, December through February. There are also off-season dining options in Fira, Oia, Pyrgos and elsewhere. Finally, some wineries stay open, too; they may be few in number but more than enough to handle the winter crowd.

The demographics of those visiting the island in wintertime are different. As a rule, winter visitors are older, with large numbers coming from India and China. What brings these visitors here in winter is their desire to see one of the most beautiful islands in the world without the summer hustle and bustle. If you’re into long walks, then sunny winter days are ideal for setting off along the Fira-Imerovigli-Oia route. On the way, you’ll have the op-

portunity to enjoy the caldera in all of its glory, to admire the unique architecture of the settlements along its rim and to take in the natural beauty around you, including local plants and volcanic rocks. This walk takes about three hours. Another fine option is to visit the long stretch of “black” beaches that run from Perissa all the way to Perivolos. The dark volcanic sand there is a rare sight to behold and even feels different when you walk on it.

Vlychada Beach, a landscape of stunning geological formations sculpted out of the lava, is also nearby. A visit to the archaeological site at Akrotiri is an all-season must, but it’s particularly convenient on rainy days thanks to its bioclimatic roof. The ash from the 1614 BC volcanic eruption buried this prehistoric town, preserving it for posterity. Walking through these ruins, you’ll feel as though you’ve been transported some 3,600 years back in time. On particularly cold and windy days, you can seek refuge in one of the open wineries. Sample some famous Santorini wines and don’t forget to try the gold-hued Vinsanto as well. This sweet local wine is made from white grapes sun-dried for several days and then matured for years in oaken barrels.

HELPFUL HINTS - Rent a car; not everything is accessible by public transportation. - Dress warmly. Though the temperature may not fall to very low single digits, evenings tend to be quite chilly. - Be sure to bring comfortable walking shoes. - Each year from February on, Santorini starts preparing for the summer season. Before you book, to ensure peace and quiet, ask if any construction projects are slated to take place near your hotel.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Kostas Konstantinidis owns the Hotel Heliotopos in Imerovigli, one of the first on the island to stay open in the winter, and maintains the daily news website Atlantea.

01. Yannis Pantazis, the creative force behind Symposion by La Ponta.

02. Christoforos Asimis at work. 03. One of his latest works, inspired by concerts held at SAF.

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STIRRING THE SENSES The cultural scene on the island enriches the lives of residents and inspires visitors, too.

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When Yannis Pantazis starts playing a hypnotic melody on a diavlos (double flute), one of the ancient musical instruments he crafts in his workshop, something magical occurs. Time stops; the construction workers laboring away in the courtyard put down their tools, and listen, spellbound. Even the wind seems to die down so as not to distract from the sounds of this age-old music. We’re at Symposion by La Ponta – a new venue belonging to this remarkable musician, instrument-maker and performer – widely regarded as the year’s big newcomer to the Santorini cultural scene. An exceptional example of 19th-century industrial architecture in picturesque Megalochori, the Saliveros Winery remained abandoned for years. Yannis and his Greek-American spouse Argy fell in love with the space, acquired it and

renovated it to house their multifaceted activities: performances linking music with mythology; a display showcasing the tsambouna (bagpipes) and other traditional musical instruments, including an 1864 lyre; an instrument-making workshop; educational programs; and the Homeric Wine Café, which offers Greek coffee and select wines made from ancient Greek varieties. La Ponta began life in a smaller space inside the Kasteli in Akrotiri in 2012. It quickly became known around the world, thanks to the thousands of people who visited it, as well as through feature stories in the international media, including the BBC and National Geographic. The new space, which includes a wonderful courtyard, a roof terrace and large cellars (which may be converted at a later stage into accommodation for resident artists),

lends a new dynamic to Yannis and Argy’s work in support of Greece’s cultural heritage (www.symposionsantorini.com). Four years after its inauguration, the Santorini Arts Factory (SAF) has taken root for good in the local community, offering exhibitions, music events and educational programs for young and old alike (a new addition being culinary lessons). It is worth catching one of the August concerts in the industrial forecourt of the historic Nomikos tomato factory, as well as visiting the art exhibition (dates TBA) featuring works by Christoforos Asimis, the exceptional Santorinian painter who created the murals in the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral in Fira and in other local churches and who, since 1972, has been depicting the light and landscapes of Santorini on canvas. His latest series of works has been inspired by concerts performed at the SAF (www.santoriniartsfactory.gr). Visual arts enthusiasts will surely find the temporary exhibition of works created by Achilleas Christidis at the Crossroad Gallery in Pyrgos to be of great interest (July 13-September 15). The painter’s most recent work is the result of his latest 40

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01. Achilleas Christidis in his studio. 02. One of the dramatic landscapes from the exhibit at Crossroad Gallery.

03. Artemis Tsiaglani, head of the educational programs at Santorini Arts Factory.

travels around Santorini, where he drew inspiration from the island’s landscapes and transferred to his canvases all of the “volcanic energy, passion and simplicity” he had seen on these walks. Should you find yourself on Santorini between September 7th and 21st, be sure to catch some of the events that will make up the 40th International Music Festival of Santorini. Under the artistic direction of its founder, pianist Athena

Capodistria, this annual celebration of classical and jazz music brings together performers of international renown from around the globe to play in the unique setting of the Petros Nomikos Conference Center in Fira. The festivities begin with a performance by Capodistria, together with the distinguished cellist István Várdai, of music from J.S. Bach, Haydn, and Grieg. (www.santorinimusicfestival.gr)

W E L C OM E A R T

in perspective

You can wander through its stonepaved alleys, marveling at its whitewashed dwellings and enjoying its famous sunset, but a bird’s-eye view of Oia puts things in a different perspective. From this angle, it’s clear that the beauty you see around you is the result of what was an intensely violent volcanic eruption, and even though no repeat performance is expected any time soon, the island is sitting on top of a still-active volcano. Yes, humans have found a way to live on the edge of a caldera, but their coexistence with nature is possible only because nature allows it – and that’s exactly what makes this island irresistible.

THE BASICS 42

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W E L C OM E t h e B A S I C S

the art of simplicity The settlements on Santorini probably wouldn’t be as charming if it weren’t for their architecturally unique yposkafa; these are structures, mostly private dwellings, that have been dug out of the volcanic rock, either partly or entirely. As a result, the villages are architecturally “tangled:” private and public spaces blend together and one home’s balcony forms the roof for another. In the midst of this complexity,

however, there is a simplicity as well. The soft clean lines and the absence of right angles lend to the structures an air of rudimentary sculpture, while the magical light of Santorini, which changes hourly, seems to bring them to life. Despite the fact that these buildings were originally created by poor, unskilled laborers as simple shelters against the elements, without much concern for architecture or style, they have become aesthetic paradigms.

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W E L C OM E t h e B A S I C S

tasty survivors Buffeted by strong winds, seared by a hot sun and often grown without the aid of irrigation, the food crops of Santorini are hardy survivors packed with flavor, despite their difficult growing conditions – or perhaps because of them. The PDO cherry tomato, the yellow peas known locally as fava, the white eggplant and the other local produce, indigenous or not, are the stars of the much-admired local cuisine. But for how long will they be available? Ironically, these plants are facing another battle for survival, as Santorini’s farmland comes under pressure from construction and tourist activity. Thankfully, there are still farmers who are fighting against the odds to keep their land and to pass down age-old wisdom and skills to the next generation. But a farmer’s life is hard – even more so during periods of drought, such as this past winter – and not that many young people dream of working the land, either. So, next time you’re tucking into a delicious dish of fava purée with onions or a mouth-watering Greek salad with Santorini tomatoes and capers, remember that this isn’t just food; it’s a way of life and a philosophy for those who have committed themselves to toiling the soil here.

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Unlike other Cycladic islands, Santorini doesn’t boast many easy-to-reach beaches; the nature of its coastline makes most of them inaccessible by land. The few that do exist, however, are uniquely enjoyable. Perhaps the most dramatic of them is Vlychada, pictured here. Its black sands, which stretch along the shore for a considerable distance, affording spots with welcome isolation; its crystalline waters, which reach precipitous depths just a few feet from the shore; and its majestic volcanic stone cliffs, sculpted over time by wind and water, all combine to make this beach unforgettable. There’s also an excellent beach bar, Theros, on a section of the beach that has sun loungers.

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W E L C OM E t h e B A S I C S

the island of “i do” There’s a good reason why the phrase “destination wedding in Greece” conjures up images of couples tying the knot in Santorini – who wouldn’t want to have their wedding in such a romantic setting? That the couple we picture is usually Chinese is also understandable, since the island is a major destination for couples from China. The assumption that it’s a wedding destination for them, however, is the result of a cultural misunderstanding. Most Chinese couples do not travel halfway around the world to exchange vows. Instead, they come here to take photographs and shoot a video (which may involve as many as three

cameramen and even drones, depending on the budget) that they can show to their guests at the actual wedding back home. Most of these events are arranged by Chinese agencies that offer – for a fee in the €1,000 range – a photographer and make-up artist, as well as a choice between four or five bridal gowns and wedding suits. The staging of the photographs, which seems to be getting more elaborate every year, is carefully planned, and the photo shoots invariably include a caldera view, but may also take place in spots where they really shouldn’t happen, such as on the top of a chapel (as shown here).

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ADVERTORIAL

Yiorgos Poniros in five quotes!

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discover © MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/GENERAL DIRECTORATE OF ANTIQUITIES AND CULTURAL HERITAGE/EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF CYCLADES, PHOTO: VANGELIS ZAVOS

SA N TOR INI

HERE and now

All you need to know about Santorini’s geology and history; glimpses into the island’s pre-tourism era; the island’s defenders who work to preserve the past while making a better future. Geometric-period vases are the earliest surviving works of art from Ancient Thera (Archaeological Museum of Thera) S A N TO R I N I 2 018

– 53 –

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The Bay of Mikri Kameni (formed by the 1570-1573 eruption) at Nea Kameni. Lava from 1570-1573 is ringed by lava from the 1925-1928 eruption.

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D IS C O V E R S C I E N C E

A Beginner’s Guide to the Volcano One of the world’s foremost experts on the geology of Santorini answers our non-expert questions.

B Y P a r a s k e v i ( Ev i ) N o m i k o u

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Nea Kameni (Lava from the 1940-1941 eruption).

What am I looking at from my veranda? In front of you is one of the most impressive calderas in the world, extending some 8km by 11km. Its steep walls rise to nearly 300m above sea level, while below the water’s surface they drop another 350m! They mainly consist of alternating layers of volcanic rock (such as lava, pyroclastic rock and pumice), except around Athinios, where blueschist is prevalent. The characteristic white upper layer contains volcanic material from the Minoan eruption, which occurred more than 3,600 years ago. How was the caldera created? It was formed by the collapse of a huge cone of accumulated volcanic material. Beneath a volcano, there is always a chamber full of magma. When the volcano erupts, the magma rises to the surface and flows out as lava. After some time, the magma chamber is emptied, resulting in the collapse of this volcanic structure under its own weight. According to recent stud56

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ies, the caldera was not open to the sea during the main phase of the eruption, but was flooded once the eruption had finished. The inflow of water and associated landslides cut a deep, submarine channel between Oia and Therasia, filling the caldera in less than a couple of days. How deep was the caldera? Before the Minoan eruption, the caldera was much shallower. There was a volcano at this spot, which lay at the center of one of the largest volcanic eruptions of the last 10,000 years. If I could take you on a deep-sea dive, I would show you the amazing bottom of the caldera. The caldera is deepest in the north, where it reaches a depth 392m. In fact, the caldera floor is divided into three basins separated by the lava flows of the islets of Palia and Nea Kameni in the center, which continue beneath the sea, creating stunning volcanic forms. Between Oia and Imerovigli, we have found, at a depth of 230m, dense underwater “pools” (or

“Kallisti Limnes”) of waters that are rich in carbon dioxide and methane. One of the caldera’s most impressive areas is its northern side, near the small Church of Aghioi Efta Paides. There, dykes interrupt the stratigraphy of the lava formations, while continuing below the surface of the sea. I’m confused! Does Santorini have more than one volcano? Santorini has several volcanic centers that have been active during different periods of time. Over a period of about one million years, at least twelve eruptive centers contributed their various outputs; at least four times a caldera was formed, only to be filled again with volcanic materials. The oldest remaining volcanic center, 650,000550,000 years old, is located in the southern part of the island, at Akrotiri. Everyone talks about the 1956 earthquake. Was it related to the volcano? The 1956 earthquake had nothing to do

01. Combined topographic map of the Santorini Volcano based on onshore and offshore data (Nomikou et al., 2016, NatCom).

02. Hydrothermal chimney emitting both fluids and gases within the crater floor of the Kolumbo volcano at at depth of 500m.

with the volcano. It was caused by the quick movement of the active submarine fault near the island of Amorgos, northeast of Santorini. It was purely a tectonic earthquake, in which sections of the seabed shifted up and down. This caused a lot of damage in Santorini, mainly in the north in Oia, and 53 people lost their lives. Are there still earthquakes? Yes, and this is perfectly normal, as Santorini is an active volcano, and earthquakes are a sign of its activity. The volcano exists due to the subduction of the African Plate 58

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beneath the Eurasian Plate in this region. As a consequence of this movement, hot liquefied material gathers under our island. In addition to the main volcano, there are also large submarine faults off the coast of Santorini, mainly to the northeast, which have either been active in the past (1956) or may become active in the future. And don’t forget the underwater volcano “Kolumbo,” which last erupted in 1650 and still periodically generates earthquakes. Do we need to worry? The heart of the volcano is active, but the islanders

have grown up with and become used to its earthquakes. They know what they have to do and they don’t panic. Many scientists of different disciplines from a number of research institutions and universities are monitoring it systematically. In recent years, with the development of underwater exploration technology, we have been learning more about the mysteries of the volcano. How do the scientists monitor it? They have placed all kinds of instruments – seismographs, GPS devices, geodetic instruments, thermal cameras and devices for measuring tide levels, carbon dioxide and temperature – to record the “breathing” and movements of the volcano. A volcano always gives warning signs – such as numerous small seismic events, an increase in gas emissions or temperature, and uplift movements – before an eruption. So scientists are constantly evaluating the current state of the volcano and, in collaboration with the Institute for the Study and Monitoring of the Santorini Volcano, keeping local authorities, residents and visitors well informed. So there’s no reason to worry! I’d like to go to Red Beach, but I read it was closed due to landslides. Are there landslides elsewhere? The beauty of Red Beach is in its uniqueness, which it gets from the color of its iron-rich rock. Unfortunately, it is prone to landslides, so visitor access is prohibited. Both residents and tourists must heed the warnings from scientists and the local authorities about the beach’s dangers. Landslides occur mainly on the inner faces of the caldera’s slopes, due both to their steepness and to the nature of the rocks. Around the main port, as well as the ports of Fira and Ammoudi, appropriate works have been carried out to support the slopes and ensure the safety of the public. Is it worth taking the volcano tour?

D IS C O V E R S C I E N C E

Red Beach, Akrotiri.

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I hear there’s a spot where you can swim in warm water that ... smells. Is it true? Of course! Don’t forget to take your swimsuit for a dip in the warm waters of the little bay of Palia Kameni, near the small Chapel of Aghios Nikolaos. You’ll see bubbles emerging from small openings in the seabed. The water is really warm (about 30°C) and smells of sulfur. It’s a unique experience! What’s so special about Santorini’s volcanic soil? The island’s Late Bronze Age (Minoan) eruption destroyed the civilization that was flourishing on Santorini and which has now been revealed by the archaeological excavations at Akrotiri. The eruption covered the island with rich volcanic ash, which has ultimately provided Santorini with unique, flavorful produce, such as cherry tomatoes, various types of grapes, white eggplants, round zucchinis, yellow peas and little potatoes. Crops whose cultivation does not require watering can grow here, since moisture is retained in the pores of the pumice-rich soil. Santorini’s singular landscape has also provided work for its inhabitants in mining – the extraction and exploitation of pumice – and it has encouraged them to be hardy and resourceful, as they learned to protect themselves from earthquakes by digging their homes into

the pumice and carving out amazing underground habitations that are cool in summer and warm in winter. The volcano is a living organism that has generously bestowed its natural gifts on us, only asking in return that we respect its geologically unique landscape and protect it as a world heritage monument.

What’s in store? Yes, the tour’s definitely worth it! You’ll love all the remarkable colors and volcanic formations. A good starting point is the northern part of the island, Oia, where you can see the contrasts between colorful pyroclastic deposits and the compacted lava flows at Ammoudi. You should take a walk on Kolumbo Beach, too, and wander in the “river” at Vothonas, where the houses were constructed by digging into the pumice. Visit the old mines to see the thickness of the volcanic tuff that covers the entire island. Stroll along the beach at Glyfada, where the naturally sculpted pumice formations will make you think you’re on another planet. And finish up by taking the path to Skaros Rock, where the alternating colors of the volcanic rock are striking. Of course, you should also take a cruise around the caldera; you’ll get to see the island’s steep slopes, the impressive Skaros Rock, the geological dykes, the wonderful variations of color on Therasia – before ending up at the islet of Nea Kameni. When you finally reach the summit there, you’ll feel you are at the center of an active caldera, next to craters that once spewed out the lava you’ve just been stepping on, and you’ll hear the power of the volcano, too, since you’ll be standing next to its fumaroles!

scientists are constantly evaluating the current state of the volcano and keeping local authorities, residents and visitors well informed.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Paraskevi (Evi) Nomikou is an assistant professor in Geological Oceanography and Natural Geography, University of Athens. Since 2006, she has devoted herself to the study of submarine volcanism around the island of Santorini. She has participated in more than 80 marine geological surveys in the Aegean Sea, the Eastern Mediterranean, the Red Sea, the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Atlantic Ocean.

D IS C O V E R H I S T O R Y

A well-to-do lady dressed in Minoan-style clothing, wearing make-up and jewelry, perhaps in attendance at a public or religious ceremony. Room 2, House of the Ladies, Akrotiri (Museum of Prehistoric Thera).

Ceramic figurine of a woman, with well-preserved painted details; possibly a mourner rending her hair, a typical gesture of grief; 7th c. BC, Ancient Thera (Archaeological Museum of Thera).

Through the ages, life on Santorini, like the volcano lurking beneath the islanders’ feet,

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A Santorinian woman, circa 1825. A detail from a colored lithograph (Aikaterini Laskaridis Foundation Library).

Vicky Nomikou, member of a prominent Santorini family, on the porch of the Langadas Mansion, with Pyrgos in the background (1954).

has been dynamic, unpredictable and impressive.

B Y J O H N L E O N A R D & g i or g o s t s i ro s

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17th c. BC The earliest inhabitants of Santorini (Thera) arrived by at least the 4th millennium BC. Over time, more and more people migrated to the volcanic island, settling in particular on a peninsula (“akrotiri”) at the island’s southern end, near a natural harbor. In the Early Bronze Age, from ca. 2500 BC, the site of Akrotiri became increasingly prosperous and archi64

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tecturally elaborate – an urban center and maritime hub whose civilization peaked in the Middle and early Late Bronze Ages (ca. 2000-1625 BC). In the last quarter of the 17th c. BC, a massive eruption changed everything, burying the town of Akrotiri beneath meters of fallen ash. Thus was created one of the Mediterranean’s great archaeological sites. Covering

about 200,000 square meters (20ha), it represents a sealed time capsule of Aegean Bronze Age life. Akrotiri was heavily influenced by the Minoans of Crete, who likely were frequent visitors to the town or permanent residents. Cultural affinities with the Minoans included a light-spirited appreciation of nature and life, reflected in the

many colorful frescoes so far recovered. In addition to lush landscapes and images of dolphins, monkeys and boxing boys, there are scenes from a naval battle, indicating that life on Santorini wasn’t always serene. Minoan influence is evident, too, in the multi-storied constructions, suites of rooms with multiple doors, light wells,

lustral basins and sophisticated water-sewer system. The excavations have yielded a trove of artifacts, but the inhabitants themselves, perhaps warned by preliminary earthquakes, seem to have escaped before the final cataclysm.

01. A fleet of ships arriving at Akrotiri’s port; detail of the Fleet Fresco from the West House. 02. Some thirty-five buildings, separated by a network of streets and small squares, are visible beneath the modern roof. 03. Sector Alpha, East Building, Pithoi Storeroom, Room Alpha 1.

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AKROTIRI HIGHLIGHTS 1

Xesti 3 Xesti is a Homeric word used to describe buildings with exterior walls constructed of dressed stones. Each of these structures was numbered in the order in which they were discovered. Buildings with such distinctive masonry were clearly not random. Indeed, some of them have been shown to have had a public character. These include Xesti 3, left of the entrance to the archaeological site, and Xesti 4, a little to the right. Others, with a more limited use of dressed stones, have been proven to be private houses, apparently belonging to prosperous families.

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Beta Building A two-story construction located east of Telchines Street, Beta Building has suffered much damage from the seasonal stream that flowed beside it. Inside this building were found some of Akrotiriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important wall paintings: the Boxers, the Antelopes, the Blue Monkeys (pictured) and the Four-footed Animals. (Museum of Prehistoric Thera)

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ENTRANCE

MILLHOUSE SQUARE Inside the south entrance to the structure known as Complex Delta (Δ15), a milling installation was found. The small square located just in front of the entrance to this place is conventionally called the “Millhouse Square.”

House of the Ladies A large three-story structure with a central light well, it owes its name to the wall paintings that covered the north and south walls of one of its rooms (pictured: female figure from the south wall). Three colored ribbons, reminiscent of waves, form an arch, probably representing the celestial vault, over the figures. In the western part of the same room, the Papyrus Fresco was found (Museum of Prehistoric Thera)

Telchines Street In ancient mythology, the Telchines were sea monsters with human faces, believed to have taught the art of metalworking to humans. This name was given to the first street that was unearthed - and which later proved to be the town’s main thoroughfare because in Building Gamma, the first building encountered on the road’s left side, a ground-floor room contained heavy stone hammers and anvils, indicating that it was a metallurgical workshop.

Alpha Section This is a building complex on the northern edge of the excavation. It’s also known as the Pithoi Storeroom, this name coming from the discovery in the complex’s three largest rooms of many “pithoi” (storage jars) containing legumes, flour and barley. Next to it is the North Mill, in which was found a milling facility and a basket containing fish and sea urchins.

Triangle SQUARE This is the largest public square in the town of Akrotiri, at the point where Telchines Street ends. Located on the west side of Complex Delta, it was thus named because of its shape. On the southwest side of the square is the House of the Anchor, while on the northwest side stands the West House.

Square of the Double Horns Double horns were an element of Cretan prehistoric architecture copied by Thera’s wealthy merchants/sailors, but we don’t know exactly what they symbolized. Given the close economic and cultural relations now recognized to have existed between Thera and Crete, especially after the beginning of the 2nd millennium BC, such cultural transmission seems unquestionable.

The West House This house, with three floors and sixteen rooms, was once a grand residence. On the ground floor were food stores, workshops and a mill installation. Upstairs, there was a workspace with a loom, a storage room, a toilet and two additional rooms serving as living rooms during the day and bedrooms at night, both adorned with magnificent wall paintings and other fine decorations. From these rooms come the murals of the Fishermen (detail pictured) and the famous miniature known as either the Fleet Fresco or the Flotilla Fresco. (Museum of Prehistoric Thera)

Curetes Street When other streets began to emerge through further excavation, the practice established by Spyridon Marinatos, the discoverer of Akrotiri (pictured here), of naming them for mythical groups was maintained. One such group was the Curetes, benevolent spirits who protected the baby Zeus from his father Kronos by using their metal instruments to produce a loud noise.

INFO Akrotiri lies at the southwestern tip of the island, 15km from Fira • The archaeological site is open 8:00-20:00 daily except Thursdays (8:00-15:00) until the end of October. Winter hours: 8:00-15:00 daily except Mondays • Tel. (+30) 22860.819.39 • Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Tel. (+30) 22860.254.05 • Open 8:00-15:00 daily except Tuesdays. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

8th c. BC-4th c. AD

After the great eruption, mainland (Dorian) Greeks colonized Santorini in the 9th and 8th centuries BC. Geometric-era graves and pottery reveal that the island’s new center was now on the hill of Mesa Vouno, at Ancient Thera, near the island’s east coast. The town flourished in Archaic times (7th-6th c. BC) as well as in Hellenistic times (3rd-2nd c. BC), when the Greek rulers of the Ptolemaic Kingdom in Egypt exploited its port as a strategic naval base. Since 1895, archaeologists have unearthed paved streets, courtyard houses, a theater/council house, gymnasia, an agora, public buildings and temples and shrines dedicated to Greek or Egyptian gods. 68

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3rd c. BC

Marble grave stele (early 3rd c. BC, Archaeological Museum of Thera), showing Alexibola, the deceased, bidding final farewell to a seated man, probably her father. The woman’s tender, respectful gesture, touching the older man’s beard, and his reciprocal touching of her arm expresses the great affection felt between the two figures. This stele was displayed in the highly acclaimed 2017 exhibition “A World of Emotions: Greece, 700 BC-AD 200” (Onassis Cultural Center, NY; Acropolis Museum, Athens). The exhibition’s lead curator, Angelos Chaniotis, notes that emotions shaped Greek culture no less than reason. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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Â© MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/GENERAL DIRECTORATE OF ANTIQUITIES AND CULTURAL HERITAGE/EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF CYCLADES

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6th c. BC The fascinating historical exhibition “Cycladic Snapshots: Monuments and People” offers a look at the important excavations and discoveries of the French School at Athens and Greece’s Archaeological Service, from the late 19th century onward. Commemorated as well are the archaeologists, architects, photographers, conservators and tireless workmen who devoted their lives to unearthing, preserving and presenting the Cycladic islands’ ancient, Byzantine and post-Byzantine monuments. Photographs, archival materials, artifacts, wall paintings and icons illuminate the cultural riches found on Delos, Rhenea, Santorini and Naxos. After its successful run at the Byzantine and Christian Museum in Athens, this exhibition has been divided into three sections, the most impressive of which will be shown in the Archaeological Museum of Thera. It features some of the outstanding finds made by the late Nicholas Zafeiropoulos (Ephor of Cycladic Antiquities, 19591972), including a unique model of a house found in a woman’s tomb that was brought to light during his excavation of Ancient Thera’s Geometric-Archaic necropolis at Sellada (1961-1982). This model is a miniature version of a Theran house, with over a hundred everyday objects. The other two sections of the exhibition will be hosted by the archaeological museums of Delos and Naxos. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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The Virgin of the Sweet Kiss, a 12th-century icon brought from Constantinople to Panaghia Episkopi.

12th c. In early Christian times, Thera became the seat of a bishop, Dioskouros (AD 324-344). Churches and chapels were established, sometimes replacing pagan temples or shrines. Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s preeminent Byzantine church is Panaghia Episkopi at Mesa Gonia, commissioned by Emperor Alexios I Komnenos in the late 11th century. As the new episcopal headquarters, featuring architectural spolia from Ancient Thera and extraordinary frescoes (ca. AD 1100), the church has survived invasions, fires, earthquakes and Catholic appropriation (1207). Today, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s known for its spirited August 15th commemoration of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin. 72

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13th-17th c.

With the Crusaders’ victory over Constantinople in 1204, the Venetians moved into the Aegean. Over the next four centuries, Santorini gained a rich mixture of cultures, finding itself on the fringes of disputes between Byzantine, Venetian, Genoese, Catholic, Orthodox, Catalan and Ottoman powers. The larger settlements were stoutly walled. These “kastelia,” with gateways and “goulades” (watchtowers), stood at strategic spots – Skaros (Imerovigli), Oia (Castle of Aghios Nikolaos), Pyrgos (now Aghios Georgios Monastery), Akrotiri (Punta Castelli) and Emporio (pictured above). They later spread beyond their walls during more peaceful times. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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17th c. Skaros, west of Imerovigli, holds a commanding view over Santorini’s caldera. Today a desolate, ruin-strewn rock formation, it was once the core of a thriving Venetian settlement, with an Upper (early 13th c.) and Lower Castle (17th c.). Closely packed on and around Skaros were 200 houses, public buildings, Catholic churches, a cathedral and an Orthodox monastery (Aghios Nikolaos, 1651). The citadel was an impregnable refuge from pirate raids. Following destructive earthquakes, beginning with the 1650 event (associated with nearby Kolumbo’s eruption), Skaros declined. By the 1820s, it had been abandoned. 74

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The Church of Panaghia Kalou in Pori (8km NE of Fira) is a testament to the resilient spirit of Santorinians in the face of numerous dangers, including Catholic and Muslim invaders, marauding pirates and violent earthquakes and eruptions. The islanders defended themselves both practically, living within walled towns or subterranean houses, and spiritually. To secure the Holy Virgin’s protection, Panaghia Kalou was constructed after 1649-50, known as the “Time of Evil,” when the undersea Kolumbo volcano (7km NE of Santorini) erupted, killing people and animals. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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1888

At sea, the age of sail was drawing to a close, while on land the age of industrialization was in full swing, with mining, textile production, tomato canning and wine exports all enjoying impressive growth. Wealthy families were becoming more “urbanized,” as they built mansions, imported lumber for their furniture, and slept on lace bedding. It is this period to which you will be transported as you enter the former mansion of wine merchant George Argyros, in Messaria. This stately building, constructed by local craftsmen according to plans drafted by Bavarian architects, was seriously damaged in the 1956 earthquake and remained in that state for 35 years until the Ministry of Culture designated it as a protected heritage property, paving the way for a lengthy and faithful restoration. 76

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ÂŠ VANGELIS ZAVOS

1956

Sadly, many other notable structures on Santorini did not share the good fortune of the Argyros Mansion, and were never renovated. The earthquake, which measured 7.5 on the Richter scale and struck the island in the early hours of July 9, left many buildings half-destroyed and exposed to the elements. Just a few dozen meters from the Argyros Mansion in Messaria stands the Markezinis Mansion, with its wild bougainvilleas and jungle-like garden. Having partially crumbled to the ground, it now faces the threat of collapsing entirely. This house stands as a silent witness to a very different way of life, one abruptly interrupted. There are dozens of similar buildings in Oia, Pyrgos, Fira and Kontochori. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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Mid 20th c.

Two mid-20th century landmarks, open to the public, showcase Santorini’s industrial past to visitors. The first is the D. Nomikos Tomato Industrial Museum - SAF, in Vlychada, once home to one of the nine tomato canneries operating on the island. The second is Santorini’s first industrial winery, designed by trailblazer George Venetsanos, which was recently returned to operation. For a glimpse into the island’s mining industry, visit the Lignos Folklore Museum in Fira. In the brightly lit mine shaft below the museum, you can see how Theran pumice – a formidable, widely exported contruction material – was extracted. 78

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The village of Firostefani in Santorini is a unique location where Past memories, Present beauty and Future dreams all come together. The menu of Casa di Te is inspired by modern Greek and Mediterranean cuisine with a touch of traditional local flavors, perfectly paired with our list of selected wines from Santorini. We bring together the past and the present and serve it to you in impeccable style at your table. Our goal is to create the perfect combination of flavors and atmosphere that enables you to enjoy unique moments on our gorgeous veranda or in our charming courtyard. Our executive chef Theodoros Aronis and all our staff members welcome you to Casa di Te and wish you a delightful dining experience.

Facebook: casa di te santorini Instagram: casa_di_te17

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MAP ILLUSTRATION: VASILIS GEORGIOU

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INFO

1. The archaeological site of Akrotiri is open daily 08:0020:00 (Thursdays 08:00-15:00). Tel. (+30) 22860.819.39. Admission €12. 2. The Museum of Prehistoric Thera is open daily 08:00-15:00 except Tuesdays. Tel. (+30) 22860.254.05. Admission €6. 3. The archaeological site of Ancient Thera: open daily 08:00-15:00 except Mondays. Admission €4. 4. The Archaeological Museum of Thera, Fira,

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open daily 08:00-15:00 except Mondays. Tel. (+30) 22860.222.17. Admission €2. 5. The Church of Panaghia Episkopi, open daily 10:0012:00 & 14:00-17:00. Tel. (+30) 22860.314.36. 6. The Venetian Castle of Emporio: The village of Emporio is located on the southern side of Santorini, 12km from Fira. The Tower of Goulas is also found here, a short distance from the village. 7. Skaros, Imerovigli: Descend the steps located next to the Church of Aghios

Georgios in Imerovigli. These will take you to the 400m-long dirt path that leads to the peak of Skaros. 8. The Church of Panaghia Kalou, located 8km northeast of Fira. 9. Argyros Mansion, Messaria, open daily 10:00-18:00 except Mondays & Thursdays. Tel. (+30) 22860.316.69. Admission €2. 10. Santorini Arts Factory (SAF), Vlychada Beach, open Tuesday-Sunday 10:00-18:00. Tel. (+30) 22860.851.41. Admission €5.

11. Venetsanos Winery, Caldera Megalochori, open daily for tastings 10:0021:00 (€12 for 5 wines), tours available 10:30-18:00 (€3 per person), 18:00-22:00 to simply enjoy wine with a view of the sunset. Tel. (+30) 22860.211.00. * Visitors can purchase a joint ticket for €14 which is valid for four days and grants entrance to the first four archaeological sites and museums listed here, as well as to the Icon and Heirloom Collection of Pyrgos.

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Before the Flood

An American photographer whose love for Greece has been captured in hundreds of iconic images remembers the first time he set foot on Santorini some 65 years ago. B y R o b e r t A . M c Cab e

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(Left) View of Perissa from Ancient Thera.

(Right) The captain of the “Despina” fishing below Fira.

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Before the cable car, mules carried most visitors up to Fira.

t was July, 1954. My brother Charles and I had been in Athens for just a few days on our first visit to Greece when we boarded a ship in Piraeus, bound for Santorini. After the long voyage that was typical of that era, our ship finally entered the caldera. Immediately, we noticed that the villages along the cliff edges were ablaze with flashes of brilliant light. The townspeople were greeting the ship by reflecting sunlight with small mirrors. I wondered whether this was a normal greeting for arriving steamers. As it turned out, it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t; this was a special welcome for one of our fellow passengers, Markos Nomikos, a Santorinian who was a representative for the Cyclades in the Greek Parliament and, coincidentally, the father of our host, Petros. When we got up to Fira â&#x2C6;&#x2019; by mule or on foot were the sole alternatives then â&#x2C6;&#x2019; we realized that we were the only visitors on the island, and that there were just two passenger vehicles, a jeep and a bus, in working order on the whole island. Fortunately, we had access to the jeep and thus were able to see much of the island. We visited Ancient Thera, the mountain-top archaeological site at the end of the twisting new road bulldozed just a few months earlier in preparation for the visit of the German statesman Konrad Adenauer, whose grandfather had excavated the site. On another day, oblivious to the treasures buried beneath us, we walked over the site of Akrotiri to go for a swim. We visited Oia, Kamari, Perissa, the Monastery of Profitis Ilias, Emporio, Imerovigli, Firostefani and the volcano. The dramatic beauty of the island and its extraordinary geological history had come as a complete surprise, but very quickly Santorini became a special one for us. I returned the following summer. It was still largely undisturbed by tourism, although the Atlantis Hotel was under 84

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Outside Lucasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Restaurant: the son and daughter of the founder with friends.

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Boarding (and â&#x20AC;&#x153;wateringâ&#x20AC;?) the bus for Fira at Perissa.

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Dock workers at the port of Fira.

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In a tender approaching “Despina.”

construction. Then, only a year later in 1956, a devastating earthquake struck, severely damaging 85% of the structures on the island and leading to a dramatic reduction in its population. I next returned in 1961, once more with my brother; we were accompanied by our family doctor and some friends from France. Signs of the destruction were everywhere, yet the hospitality and the generosity of the people were unforgettable. There were still few tourists, but the extraordinary character and qualities of the island were beginning to be discovered. For those of us who had the privilege to visit in that era, the changes since then are sometimes difficult to accept. The old ways of living and working have all but disappeared. Nonetheless, each time we make landfall, we are overcome with awe at this unique place and its incredible people. In 2006, when we had an exhibition in Fira of photos taken here in the 1950s, Santorinians were moved by what they saw. One elderly lady was in tears. She said that, in those days, the villagers said good morning to each other, and would even offer a glass of water to passersby. She noted wistfully that all that had vanished. Given the present flood of visitors, it’s strange how so many who come here miss the island’s pièce de résistance, Santorini’s unique Minoan “Pompeii,” an intact city preserved under 45 feet of volcanic ash, discovered complete with amazing frescoes of extraordinary grace and beauty.

INFO These photographs are from a forthcoming book by Robert A. McCabe depicting Santorini before both the devastating earthquake of 1956 and the onset of tourism over the next decades. His other new books, on Mykonos and on the Strofades (two small Ionian islands off the southwestern coast of the Peloponnese), are due out in September 2018. 88

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The “Aigaion” moored below Fira.

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Pyrgos, Santorini, Greece, 84700

Tel. (+30) 22860.342.46

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D IS C O V E R R E A L L I F E

Young, educated and enterprising, they strive to preserve the past and build a more sustainable future for Santorini. BY GIORG O S T SI RO S

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Â© VANGELIS PARAVAS S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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“Books, documents, photographs, AND old furniture are not junk, they are the history of this place.” Lefteris Zorzos

The PAST MATTERS “We try to salvage everything we can in a place that changes from one day to the next. Books, documents, photographs, old furniture and dinner sets. They are not junk, they are the history of this place. I have set up a network of people – they notify me when there’s a chance that things of value are being thrown away, and I rush to see if there are items worth preserving. For the same reason, we keep in touch with prominent families on the island, as well as collectors. We have digitalized 7,000 photographs dating from the 19th century up to the time of the earthquake, as well as many engravings. I settled on the island nine years ago. Back then, my brother, who is an architect, and I opened a family business, a small, suites-only hotel with a focus on art. Before that, I had spent almost 20 years abroad; my mother worked for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Bulgaria, London, three degrees in archaeology from UCL… I’d never lived permanently on Santorini, but I had always been interested in the island and spent summers there. From the age of 16, I worked at archaeological excavations all over Greece, including Akrotiri. Both my father, the president of the Estia of Pyrgos Cultural Association, and I work to preserve history and promote culture. Our association, which is self-funded, tries to motivate other businesses so that the village can enjoy cultural events all year long. Among other initiatives, we brought over volunteers from the UK to clean up the Venetian castle, along with architectural students from Italy to study it; for a number of years, we’ve been hosting groups from the National Technical University of Athens, who do research on the island’s architecture. Because of its volcanic nature, Santorini has been changing

constantly for over two million years. Sometimes this change is violent, as in the case of volcanic eruptions, but more often it is less perceptible; the caldera, for example, is expanding outward by approximately one centimeter each year. This is a natural process. More worrying is human intervention, which harms the island both geologically and architecturally. It’s hard for me to imagine what Santorini will be like in a decade. On the one hand, it’s difficult to believe that the island can continue to attract more and more tourists every year, but on the other hand, its “brand name” is so strong that I can’t see a future without major tourism, either. The encouraging thing is that there’s a critical mass of tourism professionals who care about their services and respect our visitors. It’s very gratifying to get such positive feedback regarding the island’s hospitality. This makes me very happy indeed. As for me, I’ve chosen to live on Santorini. All year round. And there is undeniably a certain quality of life here. The island is incredibly beautiful in the winter; many businesses remain open, and, of course, you don’t feel cut off, as you did 20-30 years ago. It would be a godsend if notable buildings that have been lying derelict since the 1956 earthquake could be restored. I also wish more tourists would visit some of the smaller museums, such as the Maritime Museum in Oia, or the Folklore Museum in Fira. Although they may look a little “tired” by 21st-century standards, and although they usually lack funds to upgrade, it’s imperative that they continue to exist. Inside them lie hidden treasures, parts of our history that must be preserved for future generations. Sometimes I feel that we’re fighting a losing battle, but we must wage it nonetheless.”

INFO Lefteris Zorzos, who runs Voreina Gallery Suites in Pyrgos, is the founder and owner of Crossroad, and antique shop and art gallery, and a member of the Cultural Committee of the Municipality of Thera. He works every day for the preservation of the island’s historical documents. 92

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“Anyone who has worked the land will go back to it AND APPRECIATE WHAT IT OFFERS.”

Ioanna Vamvakouri

PLANTING IDEAS “In early 2018, after several years of efforts, the vinicultural traditions of Santorini were listed in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage. This is an important development – the first step towards the formal recognition by UNESCO of our unique grape varieties, our particular cultivation practices, our wine festivals and viticultural traditions. The vineyards of Santorini can become bulwarks against the uncontrollable urban sprawl. Their legal protection needs to be finalized and cultivation permits must become more readily available. It would be difficult to triple the current 1,400 hectares so as to approximate the vineyard levels of the early 20th century, but present numbers can at the least be increased. There’s great demand for land. We are literally begging to be allowed to plant on the plain, and they won’t let us. Tourists may come and go but the land is always there. Most children here come from landowning families and they need to learn about the soil. Last year, we began seminars on viniculture for 507 fifth and sixth graders. This year we repeated the seminars for 617 fourth and fifth graders. All of our wineries participate in this initiative and we receive support from the association New Wines of Greece. We visit the vineyards, agronomists show the children how to prune the vines; they plant their own and mark them with their names. We explain “terroir” and talk about the other crops the island produces. And, finally, we

hold blind tastings of different juices… There are no words to describe how much the kids enjoy it! There’s a lot to gain from this initiative. Anyone who has worked the land will go back to it. Anyone who learns how to appreciate good food and wine will continue to value these things throughout their life. And even if they end up owning hotels, they’ll still want to serve the best the island has to offer to their guests. I’ve spent the last 14 years of my life on Santorini. I’m raising my children here. Two million tourists pass in front of my house on the main square in Oia every year. It isn’t always an easy life – sometimes you feel as though the place is pushing you away. But if we, the residents, were to go away, and if the real life were lost, what would the visitor then see? The other visitors? We are, in a sense, a local attraction; I can feel it. But we must continue our efforts for the sake of our island. Fortunately, there are many positives that keep us going. Most days after work, we can go swimming as a family. We go sailing. The other day, we went on a day trip to Ancient Thera; it was mind-blowing. If I want to meet up with a friend for coffee, I don’t need to plan days ahead. If I want to have friends over for dinner during the week, it’s no problem. Every Friday I take my son out for ice cream; we stare out at the caldera like tourists and talk about our week. All of this is why I feel optimistic.”

INFO Ioanna Vamvakouri is an oenologist, a member of the Municipal Council and president of the Cultural Committee of the Municipality of Thera. In collaboration with two legendary figures in the world of Greek wine, Vangelis Gerovassiliou and Vassilis Tsaktsarlis of the Biblia Chora Estate, she is currently creating a new winery on Therasia, the “Ktima Mikra Thera” Estate, with 100 acres of vines.

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Â© VANGELIS PARAVAS S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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“Santorini can set a good example for other tourist islands by adopting a sound protection model for its marine wealth.”

Vangelis Paravas

save our seas “We began the task of demarcating a MPA (Marine Protected Area) off Santorini in 2010. We found an ally in PierreYves Cousteau, who loves the island and its unique underwater seascape – this is where he earned his ‘stripes’ as a diver. It’s also where his father, Jacques-Yves Cousteau, filmed his documentary on the lost Atlantis. The municipal authority and all the other stakeholders signed off on it, the Hellenic Centre for Marine Research (HCMR) completed the relevant study, and last November we submitted a formal petition to the Greek government. Now we wait. The proposed area is not large, just 6 sq. km., but it is very significant in terms of biodiversity and it’s rich in pastures of posidonia seagrass, which provide natural shelter and breeding grounds for fish. Santorini is facing a significant overfishing threat, with several species unable to properly develop or reproduce; as a consequence, their populations cannot replenish themselves. At the same time, there are non-native herbivorous species, such as the Dusky Spinefoot and Marbled Spinefoot, which have no natural predators and are not considered commercially valuable by fishermen; as a result, they are multiplying uncontrollably and devastating the underwater vegetation at the expense of other species. What is particularly irksome is that in other countries these fish sell for more than €20 per kilo, but we simply discard

them! In addition, bonito tuna, saddled-, gilthead- and black seabream are being overfished, while red and blunt-snouted mullet, dusky grouper, red porgy and smaller species such as sprat and anchovy are all at the upper limits of exploitation of their stock. Legally protecting the fishing grounds is crucial for the replenishment of marine life, but it’s not enough. We must agree to fish more sustainable species using less intensive gear (for example, static nets with a larger “mouth,” as opposed to trawls) and only during designated time-periods. We must minimize the bycatch that ends up being discarded. Santorini has a unique opportunity to set a good example for other tourist islands by adopting a sound protection model for its marine wealth. My roots on the island run deep. Our family chapel of Aghia Marina dates back to the 17th century. My grandfather, Victor, was a pediatrician who contributed greatly to the community and is still remembered. All my childhood memories are linked to this place. This is why I want to help. It’s our duty to create a sustainable model for tourist development, focusing on nature, architecture and local products. We must understand that mass tourism isn’t in our long-term interest. There is an alternative option.”

INFO Vangelis Paravas is a biologist and photographer. He worked for many years for the Hellenic Society for the Protection of the Monk Seal. He is a member of iSea, a group created for the protection of marine ecosystems, and the president of the association Sea of Thera. 96

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Pierre-Yves Cousteau, seen here during a 2014 visit to Santorini, actively supports the establishment of a Marine Protected Area.

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“The energy of this island, its plasticity, keeps me alive creatively.”

Katonas Asimis

ART IS THE ANSWER “I’ve spent the greater part of my life abroad – New York, London, Venice. Yet I have strong childhood memories of my island, and memories are important to an artist. The energy of this island, its plasticity, keeps me alive creatively. This winter, for the first time in the eight years since I settled on Santorini, I didn’t go away for a single day. I wanted to find peace, to study. It was marvelous. Exactly as I love it. Santorini has become hardened, just like any other place where there is a lot of money to be made. Workers cannot find housing; they also face long working hours and tough conditions. This creates tension; everyone is a bundle of nerves. And every two years, you see a completely different island. I can’t understand why the locals simply won’t protect it, why they constantly wish to do more and more, undermining all they have created. But, of course, this is a global phenomenon. When there’s no planning, you can’t apprehend the future consequences of what you do today. There’s no interest in perspective in the notion of development. There’s a certain degree of concern, but as

long as the island fills up and produces wealth, most of these concerns are allayed. A few years ago, a close group of friends sharing the same concerns, without political affiliations, formed the Cultural Committee of the Municipality of Thera. Our emphasis at present is on education. Since the start of the school year, we’ve been putting together a student festival involving all the schools on the island. We’re talking about 3,000 pupils of all ages, on both Santorini and Therasia, who worked in groups and within a specific timeframe to stage concerts, plays and art shows. I was involved in the fine arts side of things, working with two excellent art teachers, Lea Binzer and Viveta Christopoulou. I visited the schools, presented the work of great painters and spoke about art in a language that the children could understand. I wanted them to see that a work of art is not just decorative, something that simply pleases the eye. Their response was really moving. The children’s need to learn was striking, to say the least. And I reconnected with a part of myself that I had forgotten.”

INFO Katonas Asimis is a painter and architect whose works are displayed at the three A+K Galleries on Santorini, along with those of his father, the painter Christophoros Asimis, and his mother, the sculptor Eleni Kolaitou. 98

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Iosif Perros

COLLECTING STORIES

“Santorini could be a ‘living’ academy, as long as it doesn’t allow its real riches – its history and traditions – to be lost.”

“It’s terrible that young people on Santorini today don’t know their own history. I wasn’t born on the island – my mother is from Santorini – yet all my memories are linked to this place: summer vacations, the grape harvest, church blessings with holy water. The priest of Megalochori ringing the bells each year to mark the anniversary of the great earthquake. The festival of Aghios Chariton at the end of September amidst the vineyards. I was fortunate to meet people who were pure in heart and mind, who worked hard to get by and had nothing to do with the image that the island projects today. It’s their stories that I’m trying to record and convey, especially for the sake of the locals. Because memory is our only constant at this moment in time, when everything is changing at an incredible speed. The older people in particular feel the need to speak. To be heard. Santorini could be a ‘living’ academy, as long as it doesn’t allow its real riches – its history and traditions – to be lost. My recommendation to visitors would be to attend a local fair in order to get a real feeling of the community. To walk the path from Pyrgos as far as the medieval Castle of Emporio, where they’ll see what people did to protect themselves from pirates. Most certainly to read up on the volcano before visiting. To explore the magical, little known island of Therasia. And to make a stop at the Lignos Folklore Museum in Fira, which reveals the Santorini of old.”

INFO Iosif Perros maintains the history blog kallistorwntas.blogspot.gr (in Greek) and makes himself available to academics, researchers and tourists seeking information about the “other” Santorini (kallisorwntas@gmail.com). S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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A severely damaged church in the aftermath of the 1956 Santorini earthquake. This photo is one in a well-known series taken by Walter Carone for the magazine Paris Match.

Nikos Korakakis

MOVING IMAGES “Santorini is blessed. Though it has endured many difficulties, it always manages to turn the situation to its advantage. I don’t know if this is due to the energy of the place or to the people. I imagine it’s the former. You feel it the moment you arrive. I was born in Crete, grew up in Athens and settled here 10 years ago to work as a graphic artist for a local tourism publication. At some point, I came across a map dating from 1840 explaining the geological formation of the island, and this prompted me to make the 6-minute animation short ‘Santorini: Volcano History.’ This was followed by a documentary I made with Lefteris Zorzos, which focused on the testimonies of people who had lived through the 1956 earthquake. We wanted to record these narratives mainly for Santorini’s younger generations, which, odd as it may sound, don’t know anything about this chapter of their history. The older people wanted to speak and we did everything we could to make them feel comfortable: in many cases, we had granddaughters or nieces asking them the questions in front of the camera. The material we collected would

“As long as my wife and I remain on Santorini, I will continue to record its history.”

have been enough for four hours of film. We edited it down to 40 minutes. It was shown for the first time in the main square of Pyrgos on the 60th anniversary of the earthquake. Everyone was there, young and old. It was very moving. As long as my wife and I remain on Santorini, I will continue to record its history. I’ve worked on a documentary on the island’s vineyards, and we’ll be making another on local fairs and festivals, which are very important to local life. Unfortunately, very few young people I’ve met are interested in preserving these traditions. I honestly don’t know which way the island is headed. You see lights everywhere today. It’s like a big city. It wasn’t like this 10 years ago. Sure, there was a lot of tourism then, but it was still an ‘island.’ My wife and I are among the lucky ones, we haven’t had to move house for five years now. People come here from all over Greece to work and can’t find places to stay. Even doctors and teachers have to sleep four in a flat because they can’t find housing. Here in Pyrgos, at least, the pace is different and there’s a sense of solidarity. It still feels like a village.”

INFO Nikos Korakakis is a graphic artist, photographer and video artist. His “5:12 - A documentary about the 1956 Earthquake in Santorini” is available on YouTube and Vimeo with English subtitles. 100

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101 Â© WALTER CARONE / Paris Match by Getty Images / Ideal Image

Dome Resort masterplan by Utopia

Interview with Anastasios Tserpelis

Tholos Resort Bar Restaurant, designed by Utopia

lead designer of Utopia Hotel Design How did you first come to work on Santorini? I first came to the island at the invitation of a visionary entrepreneur who wanted a design for a half-built hotel unit. It didn’t have a view of the caldera, so he felt it was crucial to invest in a memorable, modern design that would blend the unique local architecture with the most contemporary luxury hotel style. Were you asked to design the entire hotel unit? That’s not usually the case. Hotel owners and managers typically plan their projects in stages, to ensure they maintain control of the project budget and don’t miss the peak season. This is good for us, too, because it lets us develop a lasting relationship with our client and a good understanding of their needs. In this case, we first designed all the exterior areas of the Dome Santorini Resort: the entrance, the bar, the pool-side restaurant, the pathways and each suite’s private garden terrace with its individual jacuzzi. Once this was done, we designed the villa interiors, each unique and ready in time for the summer season.

Dome Resort Villa, interior architecture by Utopia, photo by Poupalos

44 Tsami Karatasou, Filopappou, 11742 Athens, Greece • Web: www.utopiahoteldesign.gr •

Dome Resort Reception, designed by Utopia

Tholos Resort Deluxe Suite, nterior architecture by Utopia

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Tholos Art Hotel Reception, designed and supervised by Utopia

How was the Dome Santorini Resort received by the island’s visitors? It was a success. The Dome is now a local landmark and enjoys high demand and an extended season. Following this first collaboration, we redesigned a second hotel for the same entrepreneur. It was split in two, and one half was designed first and relaunched as the Tholos Resort. The following year, we redesigned the other half, the Art Hotel. And then we returned to the Dome and added the finishing touches by designing the hotel spa. Needless to say, we also supervised the work throughout the protracted construction process, to ensure a flawless end result. What next for Utopia? Well, we’re currently completing the design of two more boutique hotels here on Santorini, as well as working on some luxury rental villas on Cephalonia. They’re all very interesting projects and we can’t wait to see our design ideas implemented.

Dome Resort Entrance, designed by Utopia

Do you think there’s still a role for contemporary design in Greece today? Architects are, as always, being called upon to enhance properties in terms of style and value, while making use of a limited budget. Redesigning and upgrading is a more frequent request than designing from scratch. In terms of aesthetics, however, the main request is still to merge contemporary design with local character, which is always an interesting challenge.

•

E-mail: info@utopiahoteldesign.gr • Tel. (+30) 210.983.5804 • Fax: (+30) 210.980.2107

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Villa Ioulia is a modern luxury villa that stands on the very same spot where the most elegant mansion of Pyrgos once stood. Built in the 19th century by the merchant Michalis Zannos for one of his daughters, the original neoclassical villa dominated the main street of this settlement until its collapse following the 1956 earthquake. Today, however, this iconic house has risen again, newly built as an opulent villa (available for vacation rental) combining the aura of history with ultra-modern amenities. The villa features a large living and dining room area, three bedrooms with king-size beds and en-suite bathrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and an additional smaller bedroom with a twin bed and shower. Featuring museum-quality furniture and impeccably restored objects from the 19th century, the interior offers a sense of the past grandeur of this residence. At the same time, modern features have been added as well, including a veranda with an outside dining area, a large Jacuzzi and incredible views over the southern part of the island.

Villa Ioulia is located next to the Estia Cultural Center of Pyrgos and offers guests free parking in the municipal parking lot. Pyrgos Kallistis • Santorini • Tel. (+30) 22860.307.00 • villaioulia.gr

experience © VANGELIS ZAVOS

SA N TOR INI

THE KNOWLEDGE

Insiders’ tips on how to best enjoy this unique island; a special tour to picture-perfect Oia; the best activities on land and sea. A walk off the beaten path, to the medieval settlement of Emporio

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Â© Nikola Ancevski

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EXPERIENCE INSIDER

Sharing Secrets (reluctantly)

There are still places to explore on this magical, if sometimes overwhelming, island.

Â© VANGELIS ZAVOS

B y C r a i g Wa l z e r

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n 2002, I visited Santorini for the first time with a friend of mine, Oliver. Words are inadequate to describe the impression the island left on us, so let our actions speak for themselves: we decided on the spot to to return here, build a home and open a little shop that would sell nice things to read. We believed that we had found the best spot in the universe to sit quietly in good company, drink a glass of wine and enjoy a good book. Fifteen-plus years later, on the cliffs of the north-side town of Oia, sits our Atlantis Books, the love-child of an ever-growing group of friends who have transformed a little bookshop into a humble institution, filling its rooms with great literature and making it a space to greet new visitors from across the world. Even during our first years, around 2004, only traces of “old Santorini” remained; those remnants often hid in shame amid a sea of plastic pastel paint and burgeoning strips of artisanal boutiques. The villagers watched as convoys of fully loaded donkeys carried cement and bottled water through the streets, and declared: “Well, after this year, they cannot possibly build any more.” And then they would say the same the next year, watching those same donkeys. By Year Three, we, the Americans and Brits and Cypriots and continental Europeans of Atlantis Books, joined the donkey watchers in the spring and sighed: “Our poor little village is changing. But well, after this year, at least they cannot possibly add any more.”

01. For the best views of Santorini, take the boat to Therasia. Here, the Church of Aghia Eirini, dating from 1867. 02. One of the less air-brushed areas of Oia. 03. Everywhere on Santorini, even in the archaeological site of Akrotiri, you’ll be tempted to take pictures, but it’s better to look first and snap later. 04. The twin brothers running Altana, in Imerovigli. © CLAIRY MOUSTAFELLOU

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Now, as we reach our 14th year in the village, we are still sighing. But isn’t it sublime to watch the evolution? Over the years we ingest, bite by bite, block by block, the slowly sprouting collage of new carvings, buildings and luxuries that appear in countable numbers each year, as Santorini grows into its relatively sudden pubescent emergence as a mecca of early 21st-century tourism. Now, in the spring of our 15th year, in our unofficial role as our town’s resident expats of note, we are approached between 15 and five million times a day by strangers who ask us for advice on how to spend some of their precious vacation time on Santorini. We don’t take the responsibility lightly; at this point I’d say we’re professionally capable of answering the question. The art of prociding good Santorini advice rests on three correlated considerations: A: Santorini is a brutal tourist destina-

tion. The social and cultural life is nearly all artificial, given that the island has only awakened from its sleep in the past 30 years or so, and that most buildings here are younger than the cars that clog its rocky, winding roads. Santorini is an island riddled with tourist traps, where it is exceptionally difficult to reach a spot that has not been pre-pampered and airbrushed by tourism. B: We of the island are very protective of the few secrets we have left. Here’s the paradox, as the Greeks would say: I know a few places that you don’t know. But the moment I tell you about them, they cease to be my hidden gems. How do I share the wealth if, in doing so, I immediately devalue the currency? C: It’s simply a beautiful island, and that’s enough. It’s very easy to understand a traveler’s instinct to soak up every sensation available from a once-in-a-lifetime, out-of-the-way destination like Santorini, but the longer we are here, the more

Don’t kill our home! Come see it, swim it, taste it. Come make it more beautiful, come make it kind. Come visit me in person and I’ll tell you more.

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01. The lighthouse near Akrotiri is a great sunset spot. 02. Villages such as Emporio offer an element of shelter and authenticity that Fira could never give you. 03. The view over the caldera is not the only stunning vista you’ll come across on the island.

convinced we are that the immediate point and most transcendent element of Santorini is to be found in a simple, wistful gaze at the elegant cave-houses, snow-flecked on the cusp of an impossible caldera. We know that no matter what particular advice we give, there is no tip that will deliver anything near the joy that can be derived from a simple, holy moment enjoying the view. So the bookshop’s strategy has consistently been to help nice people avoid the pitfalls and perils of the worst of Santorini as much as possible, to hint to people how they might go about “accidentally” stumbling upon our secret spots, and to remind people to relax – they’ve made it to the island, they’ve done the heavy lifting, don’t worry, find a perch, enjoy the view – perhaps with a good book in hand. But. In the past 18 months something smells a bit different on Santorini. Perhaps it is our overflowing landfill, or first

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EXPERIENCE INSIDER

In photography, as in anything in life, discretion is important. Don’t forget to be polite!

branch of McDonald’s. More hopefully, it is a new wave of refined taste and respect emanating from the most recent generation of entrepreneurs and adventurers who still see potential for this island where others see nothing but capacity. In that hopeful vein, one might say that so much touristic, overpopulated sh*t has piled onto Santorini that shoots of a new era are starting to spring. And there might just be enough of a real society taking hold here that we can allay the casual visitor’s fear of missing out and still maintain the community and integrity of our intrepid residents. More cynically, we are losing so much goodwill and so many good tourists, and we are so overwhelmed by crowds and semi-comatose commercialism, that we’re kind of in an emergency mode right now. So we might as well unleash the floodgates of our secrets and do everything we can to convince people that we’re more than 112

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just cruise boats and sunsets, that we really do have something good going here, and that Santorini is so much more than just a postcard. Therefore, in the spirit of a sh*t-born spring, I give you, in a few words, some of what I know. I hope – no, I beg – you to use it respectfully. Don’t kill our home! Come see it, swim it, taste it. Come make it more beautiful, come make it kind. Come visit me in person and I’ll tell you more. Without further ado, and as simply and straightforwardly as possible, this is what you should know: — The best view of Santorini is not found on Santorini itself, but on Therasia, the chunk of island severed from Santorini some millennia ago in an explosion. Take the ferry there for one euro, strap your boots on, bring an apple for the donkey, pick some fresh lemons and breathe in relief when you find the real Santorini you never knew you wanted all along. — Grab an aperitif or a nightcap at Vineyart in Oia. Welcome to what we hope is the future of our island. Opened recently by a smashing group of the best young dynamic lads in town, it’s spacious,

quiet and serves an impeccably curated menu of local foods and the full, meticulously researched gamut of every wine grown on the island. This is the newest haven for the Atlantis Books team – finally, a private space that feels calm and quiet and public, where you can run into friends and just know that good conversation awaits at welcoming tables with classy eclectic music riffing over the summer breeze. Find us here reading in the afternoons and reveling at night. We’ll pull up a chair for you. — Enjoy a three-hour meal at Metaxi Mas in Exo Gonia. Make reservations because you are officially the last person to hear that this is the single most satisfying eating experience on the island. — Stroll around the Akrotiri archaeological site. Don’t get too bogged down in details; just know that you’re walking in one of the oldest places you’ve ever been. Enjoy the air and the sunroof. Ask to see the world’s oldest toilet. — Visit the lighthouse on the island’s southern tip at sunset. Bring a bottle of wine and a blanket and prepare to think big thoughts.

— Gaea is a truly fine, old (and thankfully unimproved) winery with a bamboo-roofed gazebo that is so close to the beach that you can order a white wine, jump in the water and be back at your table by the time the bottle is uncorked. — Stay at Altana in Imerovigli and find yourself amused and confused at how, in a world of so much evil and frustration, a set of twin gentlemen could possibly be so truly, deeply nice, helpful and fun while running such an eminently professional, intimate and gorgeous little hotel. And get them to mix you a cocktail in their very own kafeneio. — Take a full day to just drive off the beaten paths. You can’t get lost. It’s an island with a huge volcano in the middle. Find a quiet spot – there is no wrong spot – and make it your own. — Stop at any beach off a rocky or winding road. If you want sand and surf, go to California. If you want truth, go to Katharos, Caldera, Vlychada or Exo Gialos, or any patch of sandy rock, and swim like a true volcanic islander. — Avoid Fira, the capital and the heart of darkness. Gravitate to Pyrgos, Emporio, and Megalochori – they’re off the cliffside but offer vistas of their own and an element of shelter and authenticity that Fira could never give you.

If you want sand and surf, go to California. If you want truth, go to Katharos, Caldera, Vlychada or Exo Gialos, or any patch of sandy rock, and swim like a true volcanic islander.

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One of the four-legged members of the Atlantis Books team.

And keep this in mind generally: — Don’t go to Santorini in August. It’s too crowded. Hopefully, that will change in a few years but don’t be a hero. Wait until the off-season. My favorite months are April, May, September, October and (for the not-faint-of-heart) January. — If it’s too late and you’re already booked for August, wake up early and get off the beaten paths. Take siestas and emerge again when the sun has gone down to explore the main streets. Make a plan. Rent a car and make dinner reservations ahead of time. Then come again when it’s not August to see a side of the island you just can’t get when tourist season is in full swing. — Any produce being sold at a market stall or near a church is worth buying. — Take naps. They’ll naturally mold your day, giving you peaceful times early in the morning and late at night, perfectly aligning you with the contours of the island. — Use your camera wisely. Photograph to your heart’s content but enjoy with your own eyes first. If you’d like to take the picture of a person or the inside of a person’s home or business, ask for

permission first. In sum: be reasonable and respectful. Trust me, photography etiquette goes a long way in a tourist community. — Life can get stressful even on vacation, but keep in mind that generally all workers on Santorini work seven days a week during the tourist season. So if you’re thinking of being short-tempered with a sales clerk, or a waiter, or a taxi driver or a concierge, or if we seem short-tempered to you, just take a deep breath and encourage us to do the same. — Watch out for donkey poop. — It bears repeating: there is no way to miss out on the “true” Santorini experience. Make sure you take the time to take your time. Find a favorite spot – a restaurant, a beach, even your room’s little terrace – and spend some time eating feta and tomatoes soaked in olive oil with a cold glass of wine to wash it down. This moment of sitting peacefully with an extraordinary view to soak in – this is the essence of the Santorini experience. — Finally, allow me to brazenly suggest you get yourself a good book as well, for the quiet moments in-between. Perhaps you can find that book in Oia, at Atlantis Books – one of the best bookstores on Santorini. Come join us. Santorini is still a miracle and worth fighting for. See you soon.

EXPERIENCE SAILING

“The Highlight of our Trip to Santorini” The best way to experience this magical island by sea is to choose one of the many options on offer from Sunset Oia Sailing Cruises, proud owners of the largest and most modern fleet of leisure craft on Santorini.

egardless of the vantage point from which you observe it, Santorini is a spectacular island to behold. Its hidden beauties, however, such as its picturesque coves and remote beaches, can only be experienced on a sailing trip that will take you away from the throngs of tourists. The prestigious touring and sailing yacht rental company Sunset Oia has been a leader in providing activities on the seas around Santorini since it was launched in 2009. From its base in Oia, the company offers exclusive, semi-private and tailor-made excursions on board a wide variety of top-of-the-line boats, combining affordable packages

with luxury and comfort, and always with passenger safety as a top priority. For this reason, Sunset Oia’s vessels are manned by professional captains and expert sailors with years of experience under their belts. In addition to morning and sunset options and excursions around the volcano, with breaks for swimming at the hot and cold turquoise patches created by the sulfur springs of Palia Kameni, travelers with Sunset Oia can also enjoy other sea adventures, including snorkeling in the deep blue waters around the caldera, sunbathing while taking in the striking beauty of the landscape, or even just sampling the delicious snacks and dishes available on board, all while being treat-

Unparalleled vistas on board the Sunrise II.

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ed to the outstanding personal service offered by Sunset Oia. The variety of destinations and the sheer quality of the 15-strong fleet has earned the company top ranking in its category according to TripAdvisor, making it a strong international competitor. “Beautiful cruise around the caldera. Really enjoyed the different stops – Red Beach, snorkeling stop, hot springs and most of all the sunset,” writes one happy customer, MartinK, from Kenya. Fine local wines and refreshments are offered to guests in generous amounts for the duration of the tour. The company has received accolades for its cuisine, which includes local delicacies such as grilled shrimp and skewered chicken or pork, along with an array of vegetarian options made using the finest local produce. It’s little wonder, then, that a large number of TripAdvisor reviewers talk enthusiastically about the on-board cuisine. “Sunset Oia was amazing; everything

The variety of destinations and the sheer quality of the 15-strong fleet has earned SUNSET OIA SAILING CRUISES top ranking in its category according to TripAdvisor.

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01. The semi-private excursions aboard a Lagoon 450 are ideal for those looking for some quiet time. 02. Refreshments are served on board the Sunset Santorini catamaran. 03. The Iguana, a Speedboat 35, is ideal for couples and adventurous groups of friends. 04. Relaxation and some serious sunbathing on board a Taiti 80 catamaran. 05. Snorkeling in the blue waters of the caldera basin is an unforgettable experience. 06. The Sunset Ios, a Taiti 80 catamaran, makes a scheduled stop for swimming and snorkeling.

was so clean on the boat and the crew very kind. Also the perfect number of guests and not over-crowded at all. The food was delicious, and my mother and I enjoyed watching it being cooked fresh right there on the boat. Would highly recommend this tour to anyone looking for a classy time!” writes krystianag from Long Island, New York. Reviewers also praise the crew’s experience and willingness to provide information about the island’s rich history and culture. “We got to see so much and all from the vantage point of a dreamy sailboat! Our knowledgeable captain and amazing chef made our trip even more fantastic and memorable! They kindly answered all of our questions and provided a delicious meal and an unmatched view of the sunset. Treat yourself to this unforgettable experience,” writes Jen D, who got to experience the cruise with five of her girlfriends. It’s not just the exquisite facilities and cuisine that make Sunset Oia cruises worthwhile; it’s the special memories that will last a lifetime, and the feeling of satisfaction that lingers on well after the trip has ended. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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MEET THE FLEET

S/Y SUNSET ANAFI Lagoon 450 Catamaran SLG

Lagoon 450 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNSET DELOS

S/Y SUNSET NAXOS Lagoon 450 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNSET OIA Lagoon 500 Catamaran SLG

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2016 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 45ft/13.7m Passengers: 14 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2017 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 45ft/13.7m Passengers: 14 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2018 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 45ft/13.7m Passengers: 14 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2009 Cruising / Sailing Overall Length: 50ft/15.2m Passengers: 20 max

Enjoy an all-inclusive semiprivate morning or sunset excursion on this most luxurious Lagoon catamaran. Stops for swimming and snorkeling at the White and Red Beach and hot springs. Towels and snorkeling equipment are included, as is a full barbeque with unlimited drinks.

Feel like royalty on this luxurious catamaran. The 5-hour tour starts from Ammoudi at 10:00 and from Vlychada at 15:00. Enjoy mudbaths at the hot springs, snorkeling at the White Beach and barbeque on board with scrumptious Greek delicacies. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

If you’re yearning for some peace and quiet, book a semiprivate tour with this brand new luxurious catamaran and discover some of Santorini’s most impressive spots and sights. Opt for the Sunset Tour that starts from Vlychada at 15:15 and, with a glass of wine in your hand, say goodbye to the day as the setting sun slowly disappears into the sea.

Departs from Ammoudi at 09:45 and from Vlychada at 14:45 for 5-hour morning and sunset tours, which include stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach. The on-board barbeque features local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

Taiti 80 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNSET IOS

S/Y EXCLUSIVE TAITI 80 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNSET SANTORINI Lagoon 400 Catamaran SLG

F. P. Cumberland 46 Power Catamaran

Semi-Private Built: 2015 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 80ft/24.4m Passengers: 55 max

Semi-Private Built: 2017 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 80ft/24.4m Passengers: 55 max

Private Tours Built: 2015 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 40ft/12.2m Passengers: 8 max

Private Tours Built: 2009 Cruising Overall length: 46ft/14m Passengers: 14 max

One of the two largest catamarans in Sunset Oia’s fleet, the Sunset Ios departs daily for 5-hour morning and sunset tours around the caldera and the beaches on the south coast of the island. It sails from Athinios Port at 09:30 and again at 14:30. With a comfortable layout and a large space for dancing, the Sunset Ios is also available for wedding parties and other events.

You’re in for a treat on board Sunset Oia’s new acquisition which, like its sister Sunset Ios, is large enough to accommodate various events. The tour includes stops at the hot springs and the Red and White beaches and features an on-board barbeque. Refreshments abound and so does delectable local white wine.

Available for private 5-hour excursions around Santorini, with stops around the caldera, the White and Red beaches and the hot springs. With a fullday tour, you have the option of sailing to the crystal-clear waters of the nearby island of Ios. Full barbeque meal, drinks, towels, snorkeling equipment and more amenities are provided.

Two powerful 310 hp engines allow this vessel to cruise at a maximum speed of 20 knots, while the hulls are specially designed for maximum stability. A shallow draft allows it to approach hidden island beaches safely. Available for private tours around Santorini and nearby islands as well as for multi-day charters. Full barbeque meals, drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included.

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M/Y EMILY

All cruise options include transportation from and back to your hotel.

S/Y SUNSET AMORGOS Lagoon 520 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNRISE II Lagoon 560 Catamaran SLG

s/y SUNSET milos IPANEMA 58 Catamaran SLG

S/Y AMMOUDI Ocean Voyager 74 Catamaran SLG

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2016 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 52ft/15.8m Passengers: 20 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2014 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 56ft/17.1m Passengers: 20 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2017 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 58.4ft/17.8 m Passengers: 20 max

Semi-Private Built: 2011 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 74ft/22.5m Passengers: 48 max

Available for 5-hour morning and sunset tours starting from Ammoudi Bay and Vlychada respectively. Includes stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach, as well as an on-board barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

Available for 5-hour morning and sunset tours, starting from Ammoudi Bay and Vlychada respectively. Includes stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach, as well as an on-board barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

The tour begins and ends at Ammoudi and includes stops for mudbaths at the hot springs, for swimming at the Red Beach and snorkeling at the White Beach. An on-board barbeque features local delicacies and unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

Available for 5-hour morning and sunset tours, starting from Ammoudi. Includes stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach, as well as an on-board barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment is also included.

Speedboat 35 Lux Speedboat

M/Y IGUANA

M/Y ALEXANDROS Ferretti 680 Motor Yacht

M/Y ALEA Alfa Marine 72 Motor Yacht

Luxury Built: 2010 Cruising Overall Length: 35ft/10.7m Passengers: 4 max

Luxury Built: 2002 Cruising Overall Length: 69,5ft/21.2m Accommodation: 4 cabins

Luxury Built: 2009 Cruising Overall Length: 72ft/22m Accommodation: 4 cabins

Enjoy an exciting adventure in style on a private morning or sunset tour aboard this luxury speedboat. Swim at secluded beaches or enjoy a romantic cruise. With quick and easy adjustments, the exterior space can be transformed into a lounging area. Gourmet snacks, unlimited drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included.

The perfect choice for yachting and private tours. Four sumptuous cabins (master bedroom, VIP bedroom with king-size beds and luxurious en-suite facilities) and lowerlevel and upper-level decks with high-end amenities make this an ideal choice for luxury excursions and island-hopping. Gourmet snacks, unlimited drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included.

With a maximum speed of 40 knots, the Alea connects Santorini with Mykonos and remote islands of the Small Cyclades. Available for day trips or multi-day cruises, it features spacious indoor and outdoor areas for leisure and enjoyment and four luxurious cabins with en-suite bathroom facilities. First-class service, gourmet meals, beverages, towels, snorkeling equipment and other amenities are included.

INFO

www.sunset-oia.com Tel. (+30) 22860.722.00 Mob. (+30) 698.026.8881 reservations@sunset-oia.com

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Out of the Ordinary E XPERIENCE AC TIVITIES

From horseback riding to scuba diving and from kayaking to hiking and biking, Santorini has it all. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also the perfect place for those photos of a lifetime.

BY N E NA DI M I T R IOU, M A R I A KOR AC H A I , PAU L I N A B J O R K- K A P S A L I S

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Yana, one of the instructors at Santo Horse Riding, in action.

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E XPERIENCE AC TIVITIES

INFO

Santo Horse Riding • Akrotiri • Tel. (+30) 697.554.1447 • www.santorinihorseriding.gr

BLAZING SADDLES “Am I gonna fall?” It’s probably the question that Yana Bystrova of Santo Horse Riding in Akrotiri hears most often. Her reply? “Certainly not!” Getting into the saddle is easy, and riding can be a really exciting experience – even if it lasts for just a little while. Back in 1997, brothers Nektarios and Valantis Baikas – who had been involved with horses since childhood – decided to set up a horseback riding business. Today, their “family” numbers some 34 horses – adults and foals – that live in a huge, fenced field. If you go near the 124

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fence, they’ll approach you in a friendly manner; they like to be petted. Ares is the “Alpha,” the stallion, the leader of the stable and father of the foals; Banana is one of the mares, shorter and stouter, who recently became a mother; Hassan has a shiny, brown coat and a brilliant, blond mane. Most of the horses on the farm are successful crossbreeds, not thoroughbreds. “By nature, they’re nice friendly animals – but they’re also lazy! Generally, they want to eat a lot and to move around as little as possible. Regular horses (racehorses are faster) can reach speeds of

up to 50kph – but only if their life is in danger. We feed them hay, oats, bran and a little clover, three times a day. High-quality food is very important for their physical and mental well-being,” explains Yana. She also points out that the animals are brushed and “pedicured” on a daily basis. It was my first time on a horse. I found my lofty position in the saddle, and Hassan’s rhythmic gait – along the water’s edge – very uplifting to the soul. When we reached the end of the beach, I turned around and gazed over my shoulder wistfully. I really didn’t want to dismount! One of the routes offers an introduction to the inland area around Akrotiri; it runs through vineyards and past picturesque chapels, winding up at the blue Church of Aghia Anna. Another lets you experience your own “film moment,” riding into the sunset on Eros Beach in Vlychada. To take part, you have to be older than eight and comfortable with heights. A horse can measure anything from 140cm to 180cm from the ground to the highest point along its spine, and being this high up can make some people feel nervous. “Most visitors aren’t used to riding,” says Leonidas, one of the center’s other guides, “and horses sense fear. Their intuition is unerring. You can’t lie to a horse.” My advice is to leave your fear behind, grab the saddle by the horn, and enjoy an experience that you will remember forever! Rides are priced at €60 and €90, lasting one and two hours respectively.

Vazeos Car & Moto Rental Oia, Santorini Tel: (+30) 22860.712.00 E-mail: info@vazeos.gr www.vazeos.gr www.santoriniluxuryrentals.com

E XPERIENCE AC TIVITIES

A Great Catch Volcanic beaches; a rock that resembles the face of a Native American; one of Greece’s oldest lighthouses which — still inhabited — stands nobly on the precipice of a cliff... You’ll spot all these sights and more, as you try your skill at deep-sea fishing. Anthi Arvaniti, 28, is your captain as you sail the seas of southern Santorini. The name of her traditional caique is Giorgaros – or “Big George,” her grandfather’s nickname. He was a fisherman, like most of the members of her family. After completing her studies in philosophy, Anthi returned to the island where she had grown up. Today, she organizes incredible fishing excursions that begin either in the morning – which sees you raising nets cast the previous evening – or in the afternoon – with the sunset finding you at sea. People from around the world have boarded the Giorgaros – from those in search of the alternative side of the island to famous YouTubers, and from friends holding bachelor parties to young children who, never having eaten fish before, tried it here for the first time. (So many grateful parents have thanked the captain for this!) The trip is a hands-on adventure; you’ll learn how to bait fishing lines, remove fish from nets, and properly descale and gut a fish. Above all, however, you’ll discover what it means to respect the sea. Using low-impact fishing methods, you’ll catch everything from red mullet to scorpionfish, parrotfish and little red shrimp, all to be cooked on the spot (either as part of a kakavia, a bouillabaisse-style fish soup, or fried or grilled), and served accompanied by Santorinian wines and fresh vegetables.

INFO

Book your trip on www.santorini-fishingtours.com; Tel. (+30) 693.671.6348 or (+30) 22860.832.87. The cost per person is €130 (includes the meal), while private, specially tailored experiences can also be arranged, starting from €500. 126

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MAKING MEMORIES THE FUN WAY

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Santorini’s caldera may not offer much in the way of fish-watching, but it still has enough going on underwater to have impressed Jacques Cousteau, as he searched – in vain – for the lost city of Atlantis back in 1975. The most popular dive sites are off the islets of Palia and Nea Kameni (known for their vast lava formations); at Taxiarchis Cove off Nea Kameni, where the submerged wreck of a passenger ship is a great spot for exploration and photos; and in the sea near Akrotiri, where you can see the commemorative plaque that Cousteau’s son, Pierre-Yves, placed there in honor of his father. Diving conditions around the island are ideal, thanks to the clear

warm waters, while Santorini’s dive centers – certified by the leading international diving authorities – provide all the equipment required and a complete range of programs for all ages. To explore hidden coves, secluded beaches and beautiful volcanic rock formations that nature has sculpted over millennia, get in touch with Santorini Sea Kayak. The company arranges pick-ups and drop-offs at your hotel and offers a selection of tours ranked by TripAdvisor users as one of Santorini’s “must” experiences. Sea kayaking is also a great family activity (kids must be aged eight or older), and the company’s special tours include swimming stops, cliff jumping,

INFO Diving: Atlantis Oia • Oia, www.atlantisoia.com • Tel. (+30) 22860.711.58 Aegean Divers • Aghia Irini • Pyrgos • www.aegeandivers.com • Tel. (+30) 22860.332.01 Santorini Dive Center • Perissa • www.divecenter.gr • Tel. (+30) 22860.831.90 Mediterranean Dive Club • Perissa Beach • www.divingsantorini.com • Tel. (+30) 22860.830.80 Navy’s Waterworld • Kamari Beach • www.navyswaterworld.gr • Tel. (+30) 22860.281.90 Volcano Diving Center • Kamari • www.scubagreece.com • Tel. (+30) 22860.331.77 Kayaking: Santorini Sea Kayak • www.santoriniseakayak.com • Tel. (+30) 22860.852.37, 695.180.1051 Walking: Santorini Walking Tours • www.santoriniwalkingtours.com • Tel. (+30) 697.160.3600, (+30) 22860.364.96 CYCLING/MOUNTAIN BIKING: Santorini MTB Adventures • www.santoriniadventures.gr • Tel. (+30) 22860.305.54, (+30) 698.028.9453 Photography: Konstantina Sidiropoulou, K-Yellow • www.kyellow.photo • Tel. 698.630.2711 Olaf Reinen, Shotz Tours • www.santoriniphototours.com • Tel. (+30) 698.882.8289

snorkeling and, thankfully, picnic lunches. Fans of the island say that unless you walk its alleys and country backroads, you’ll never truly get to know it. If you don’t want to go it alone, Nikos Boutsinis of Santorini Walking Tours is your man. He spends his winters designing tours along the island’s most interesting routes, with stops for cooking classes, wine tastings and visits to archaeological sites, castles and museums, along with a few special spots well and truly off the beaten path. His company also organizes private guided tours, tailor-made to his clients’ interests. Each tour lasts about four hours. At first sight, the island (with its steep

inclines and, in the summer months, its busy roads) may not appear to be particularly bicycle-friendly, but don’t let that discourage you. At Santorini MTB Adventures, you can rent electric-powered mountain bikes that allow you to decide whether you’re going to do all the legwork or let technology assist you while you enjoy the scenery on some of the island’s quieter byways. The company offers two tours: a 40km cross-island private tour and a 22km seaside group tour that takes you along ancient wine routes, down to local beaches and through unspoiled traditional villages – the experience has received a certificate of excellence from TripAdvisor.

There are also less physically demanding options. A graduate of the Leica Academy for Creative Photography in Athens, Konstantina Sidiropoulou will take you to all the perfect spots for professional-caliber shots that will amaze your friends. The tours, which last from two to six hours, start in Oia. Choose a tour depending on your favorite time of day. Would you like to capture the light of the sunrise, morning, afternoon and sunset, or the night sky? On similar tours with Olaf Reinen, you can choose to shoot with anything from a professional camera to your phone, and get help to edit your images perfectly and to upload them to social media, too. S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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Alexandros Jewelry • Gold Street, Fira, Tel: (+30) 22860.254.70, (+30) 22860.280.64 • Marble Road, Oia, Tel. (+30) 22860.273.13 • alexandrosjewelry.gr

EXPERIENCE LUXURY

TREASURE HUNT

Precious gift items from the island’s best jewelry boutiques

Excelsior • Gold Street, Fira, Tel. (+30) 22860.361.96

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Poniros Gold Street, Fira, Tel (+30) 22860.251.65 • Sunset Bulevard I, Oia, Tel. (+30) 22860.712.11 • Sunset Bulevard II, Oia, Tel. (+30) 22860.72260 • www.poniros.com •

Nick the Greek Gold Street, Fira, Tel. (+30) 22860.239.07 & (+30) 22860.230.15 •

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EXPERIENCE oia

The Northern Star Once a stronghold of the island’s shipowners and sea captains, the glittering village of Oia is Santorini’s headline act. B Y N E N A D I M I T R I O U / P HO T O S P ER I K L E S M ERA K O S

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One of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous sunsets.

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ia is the epitome of picture-perfect Santorini. In part a traditional settlement with a long history and unique architecture, in part an ultra-glamorous vacation destination, it hangs suspended above the Aegean, looking down on Ammoudi Harbor and out over the rest of Santorini and the islands of Therasia and Palia and Nea Kameni in the distance. In the Doric dialect, the word “oia” meant “far,” so when the government in the interwar period sought to bestow a new, more elegant name on the place, it chose Oia, because the village was so far from all the other settlements. Up until the 19th century, the village was a prolific shipbuilding center known as Apano (or Pano) Meria, which translates simply as “the upper side.” Its inhabitants were called Oiates or Panomerites; the men were mostly sailors or shipowners, and the boatyard in Armeni built large caiques. Every shipowner was also the captain of his craft, which was typically 134

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crewed by family members. They loaded their vessels at Ammoudi Harbor with barrels of Vinsanto, a wine made with sundried grapes from the local vineyards and matured in Finikia, in wine cellars known as “canaves.” This cargo was often destined for the Black Sea, or for the Orthodox communities of Russia, who used Vinsanto wine for Holy Communion.

Saved by an earthquake Until the 1950s, this small part of the world had no electricity, no paved roads and, of course, no guesthouses or tavernas. It’s hard to imagine today, as you watch hordes of visitors jostling each other and wedding photographers struggling through the crowds to set up the best shots, but Oia back then was a sparsely settled village, and its narrow ways were graced not by tourists but by the horses, donkeys and mules used to transport goods. All this changed on July 9, 1956, the day of the catastrophic earthquake that

A close encounter with Oia’s traditional transportation system.

IN THE FIFTIES, Oia was a sparsely settled village, and its narrow ways were graced not by tourists but by the horses, donkeys and mules used to transport goods.

Oia Castle before the sunset worshipers arrive.

EXPERIENCE oia

“OUR VILLAGE” “For us, the summer meant walking every day from Oia to Armeni, where our grandfather lived. We’d spend the whole day there, swimming, waterskiing or fishing. Today, there’s also the option of taking a boat from Ammoudi. Take a dip in Armeni and lunch in the restaurant of the same name or return to eat in Ammoudi. We’d always go to Katina’s, as our grandfather was close with the people who ran it, but all of the tavernas there are good. Another must is the classic walk from the Church of Aghios Georgios to the castle and along the back road with the old sea captains’ houses. For a glass of wine and some delicious food made with fine local ingredients, go to Vineyart, which has a relaxed atmosphere. For drinks, good music and dancing until late (or early in the morning), go to Marykay’s on the main road. Solo Gelato offers ice cream made with fresh ingredients, including milk from Naxos. For shopping, our favorite boutique is Andronis Major, which stocks items from famous Greek designers. To catch the sunset, there’s a pebbled beach called Katharos on the road towards Ammoudi, after the new hotel Canaves Oia Epitome. It doesn’t have a view of the caldera, but it’s not crowded. You can grab a drink at the beach bar and sit and watch the sun go down. Alternatively take a stand-up paddle board from Armeni and head out to the catamarans. From there, you can see the most magical sunsets.

Christina and Alexandra Karageorgiou, who spent their childhood summers in Oia, manage tourism properties in the area today.

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The vaulted ceilings are characteristic of the architectural style of many of the island’s mansions.

The neighborhood of Sideras, with its well-restored Kapetanospita, or Captain’s Houses.

Oia Maritime Museum showcases the settlement’s glorious seafaring past.

flattened the whole village and many other parts of the island. The houses in Oia, which were made of stone and mud, collapsed. The inhabitants scattered in whichever direction they had family. Many would never return. The center of Oia, the area left and right of the marble-paved street, along with the public squares and churches, was rebuilt within about ten years, along with new homes for the earthquake survivors. Building materials and army personnel were sent from Piraeus for the reconstruction effort. In order to get everything to Oia from the main harbor of Kamari, a road was built. It was, at first, just a dirt track. The new houses were constructed using concrete, with

strong foundations and distinctive, barrel-shaped roofs. These “barrels” can still be found along the main road, atop single-story structures now nestled in between luxury dwellings. Around the same time electricity arrived and a regular boat service began. In 1976, an airfield was built. Initially intended for military use, it soon started servicing commercial flights and tourism took off. That’s why on Santorini, they say “O sismos, sosmos,” which means “The earthquake was our salvation.”

the poorest islanders, who lived in single-story homes built from aspa, a mixture of volcanic ash, pumice stone and pieces of solidified lava and sand. The “good” neighborhood was the inland side of the village, or Sideras, where the grand, two-story captains’ houses were located, with their distinctive architectural features and a characteristic transom window above the entrance. Many still survive, either as houses or as restaurants. Today, the traditional village of Oia is almost as famous as the island of Santorini itself. The castle, whose ruins welcome crowds of visitors every evening, offers a spectacular sunset. There are a number of world-famous luxury hotels and holiday accommodations with contemporary spa facilities, infinity pools and personal Jacuzzis (they come with amazing views, too), as well as dozens of dining options for every budget. There is a hair salon, a post office, an elementary and secondary school, a health center and one of the most famous bookshops in the world, Atlantis, housed in an yposkafo, a building carved right into the rock. The Maritime Museum preserves the history of the village and, with it,

THEN AND NOW What you might not know about the caldera area, so glamorous today, is that in older times it was inhabited by

What you might not know about the caldera area, so glamorous today, is that in older times it was inhabited by the poorest islanders.

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much of its character. There is, however, no turning back the clock; while Oia has a permanent population of only 1,000, with over 8,000 visitors a day from cruise ships alone, it becomes, for a few hours at a time, an extremely lively place.

Arts and crafts Walk along the central, marble-paved road which runs from the luxurious Canaves Oia Hotel to the castle, a distance of about one kilometer. On the left-hand side, small wooden gates open onto paths leading down to the hotels and restaurants that perch on the edge of the caldera. This main road is a shopper’s paradise. Boutiques here feature both Greek and international designers: Soho-Soho for the most famous global brands and fashion houses; design garments and accessories at Andronis Boutiques; and silk, cashmere and wool accessories at the Silk Shop. In smaller shops, look for handmade Greek creations by young 140

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designers such as Ioanna Kourbela. Stunning jewelry by Greek designers shine in the display cases of boutiques such as Poniros. Check out the classic gold designs by Alexandros, or discover jewelry, ornaments, paintings and other vintage items in Oia’s only antique shop, which resembles a small, open-air bazaar. Distinguished artists also maintain their own galleries in Oia. Worth visiting are Asimis-Kolaitou AK Art Gallery; Oia Art Gallery; Kyrkos Art Gallery; photographer Nikos Rigopoulos’ Oria Gallery; and the workshop of Dimitris Koliousis, a self-taught icon painter who has also decorated Panaghia Episkopi Church. Lesser-known artists from all over Greece – potters, jewelers, sculptors and painters – also send work to be displayed and sold on this illustrious stage.

Many thanks to our guide, Nicoletta Nomikou, who is available for tours. Tel. (+30) 693.221.4130.

01. Oia Art Gallery. 02. Marykay’s Bar. 03. Low-season strolling in the back alleys. 04. The boutiques of Oia feature collections by both Greek and international fashion designers.

SA NTOR INI

WINE AND DINE

Taste world-famous Santorini wines at the source and book a table at the best restaurants on the island. The small, ruby-red cherry tomato of Santorini: a taste you’ll remember forever.

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TA S T E W I N E

The Deep Roots of Success An expert’s look at what makes Santorini wines so sought after by the influencers of the international wine market. B y K o n st a n t i n o s L a z a r a k i s , M a st e r o f W i n e

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antorini’s ascendancy over the Greek wine scene is widely recognized by wine experts around the world. No wine list from New York to London is considered complete without at least one Santorini label, as world-class sommeliers rain praise once reserved for classic French regions like Burgundy or Loire on the island’s wines, and every producer runs out of stock within a few months of each new release. As with every major success, there is, of course, no single factor that caused it. In the case of Santorini, contributing elements include its terroir; the incredible native Assyrtiko grape and the style of wines it yields; the reliability of that style; the limited yield; the high average quality; and conditions on the global wine scene. What’s more, the island’s own incredible beauty and popularity, makes it a thriving wine tourism market. This success story dates back to the 1990s and the winery of Santo Wines – beautifully situated on the rim of the caldera – and to the architecturally stunning Boutari Winery. The story of Santorini’s wines would have been very different had they been produced in a less popular part of Greece like, say, Epirus, particularly on an international level, as the southern Aegean island receives millions of visitors every year who go back home as net promoters for its wines. And even though Santorini’s wines have been famous for centuries, today’s product is a relatively recent force in terms of commercial and export value. A few top-notch wineries, such as the Koutsoyannopoulos Winery, have been in operation for many years now, but up until the 1980s, the overwhelming bulk of Santorinian wine was only consumed on the island and very little of it was bottled. This changed thanks to two developments. The first was the establishment

A visit to a local winery, such as Domaine Sigalas (pictured here) is the perfect way to introduce yourself to Santorini wines.

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of the Boutari Winery in 1987, when a “foreign” (that is, non-Santorinian) winemaker tapped into the island’s potential and made its wines known in Greek and foreign markets. The second was an effort, spearheaded by Paris Sigalas in the early 1990s, which proved that smallscale winemakers not only had a place on the island but could work magic as well. You have only to look at a Santorinian vineyard to see that the wines here are different to anywhere else. The soil is volcanic and arid but contains elements that prevent the spread of phylloxera, a pest that attacks the vine from the root, destroying it entirely. Santorini’s ancient vines are, in fact, the only ones in Europe that haven’t come under assault from this wine louse. The roots of a vine here can reach a depth of 20m in order to absorb all of the soil’s nutrients and, while the climate is incredibly arid, there is enough morning dew to keep the crops happy. Powerful winds, meanwhile, prevent any form of tall growth, so Santorini’s vines are trained into “baskets” close to the ground. The combination of all these factors results in extremely small yields from Santorini’s aged vines, but these grapes are of exceptional quality. The island’s rather cantankerous terroir might have resulted in equally can-

THE Kouloura The Greek word for Santorini’s woven vines denotes a training system that you won’t see anywhere else in the world, developed in response to strong winds that would simply decimate vines grown in the customary manner. Here, they are trained near the ground and shaped into a ring (kouloura) or “basket.” The reason is that the climate in this area is extremely arid and, if it weren’t for the caldera that allows dew to form in the morning and settle on the ground, almost any form of cultivation would be impossible on Santorini. So, while humidity is the number-one enemy for grape growers in almost every other part of the world, it is a powerful ally here, and is trapped inside the basket so that the roots get the water they need. While this system yields a very small quantity of grapes, they are packed with flavor. 146

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on Santorini, there is no weak link: the average quality of the wines and the producers is very high; it is almost impossible to find a wine that is not at least very good.

tankerous wines had it not been for the cultivation of Assyrtiko, arguably the best white variety in the Mediterranean. The wines this grape gives us are even fuller in body and alcohol than an Australian Shiraz and have the kind of high acidity usually found in a Riesling from Germany’s coldest parts, yet these otherwise contradictory traits find themselves in surprising harmony. Assyrtiko is not aromatic or even fruity; it is the epitome of “minerality.” Santorini wines are cerebral and extremely pleasant in youth, especially when served with big fish, but also have the ability to age extremely well for a decade if not longer. Every winemaking region needs to develop a style that is unique, consistent and instantly recognizable in order to achieve success. All the classic wine producing regions have it – Campania, Bordeaux, Chianti, Napa Valley. This allows consumers to know what they’re getting every time they buy a bottle, making repeat purchases more likely. Santorini has also nailed it in this regard, as the strength and consistency of character of its wines are guaranteed by the combination of the terroir, which “stresses” the plants to an extreme degree, and Assyrtiko, a variety that gives its wine a very distinct personality. However, quantities are destined to remain limited despite constantly rising demand, as Santorini has a total of just 1,400 hectares of vines (there are private vineyards bigger than that in Chile) and this number is unlikely to grow given that agricultural development is in direct competition with tourism, and the latter will always pre-

vail, no matter how expensive Santorini’s wines become. The danger here is not that producers will become carried away by rising demand to push yields, but the exact opposite: that production in the future will be even smaller than it is today. Some are concerned by the fact that Assyrtiko is being grown in other parts of Greece and in other countries like Australia, the United States and South Africa. I maintain that this is a good thing because the more the variety’s reputation grows, so will the number of oenophiles who will become interested in this exceptional grape’s place of provenance. And here, on Santorini, there is no weak link: the average quality of the wines and the producers is very high; it is almost impossible to find a wine that is not at least very good. Another factor that has contributed to the success story are the developments in the international wine market, particularly the growing disdain of discerning consumers towards ubiquitous varieties like Chardonnay and Merlot, as well as classic wine regions that everyone knows about. What they are looking for are new, alternative options, both in terms of location and style. Anything pompous, creamy or over the top is considered dated, as tastes have turned to freshness and density. Love for the barrel, a dominant trend for decades, has been replaced with a fascination for minerality. Given all these separate factors, it’s almost as if the script has been written for Santorini Assyrtiko to become one of the new classic wines of the 21st century – and its rise to stardom has already begun.

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Vinsanto Making Vinsanto is nothing short of economic suicide. A tiny share of the small amount of grapes produced by every vine on the island is spread out across rooftops and courtyards to dry in the harsh Aegean sun. The raisins that form after two or three weeks yield only a smidgen of juice, which is then fermented and aged for many years, even decades, in barrels. But a Vinsanto is almost always an amazing wine: high in viscosity, extremely intense in aromas of sweet fruits and spices, with a mouth where incredible sweetness is counterbalanced by tannins and sharp acidity. A Vinsanto need not be reserved only for desserts like syrupy baklava; it also goes very well with sharp, salty cheeses.

Mavrotragano Even though Santorini’s reds do not have protected designation of origin status (it’s reserved for the island’s whites), this variety of grape yields some marvelous wines. Rich in color and on the nose, they are full of Mediterranean summer herbs and black fresh fruits, with strict yet unaggressive tannins in the mouth and incredible volume. Mavrotragano calls for juicy red meats or voluptuous casseroles, such as lamb in tomato sauce.

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Nychteri Nychteri is a style of wine that comes from late-harvest, very mature grapes collected at night – thus its name, with “nychta” meaning night in Greek. Aged for several months in the barrel, Nychteri is like a typical Santorini wine on steroids, with even more intense minerality. The honey and nuts come through much earlier, while in the mouth it is even more condensed and, oddly, even more balanced. This is a wine that pairs beautifully with intense seafood dishes, and is not at all skittish around red meat.

Santorini Assyrtiko There is nothing blah about a dry Santorini. It is different to other whites on the nose because of the absence of the usual fresh and charming fruits; instead, minerality takes center stage, allowing for the aromas of honey, herbs and dried fruits to develop with aging. High acidity and alcohol, as well as a full body, come together to create a wine that is more reminiscent of a red than a white in the mouth. Santorini wines are the perfect match for large charcoal-grilled fish and lobster-based dishes.

ADVERTORIAL

Your Number One Tasting Experience Canava Roussos, the oldest winery on Santorini, was founded in 1836 to produce high-quality aged wines expressing the distinctive characteristics of the numerous varieties of indigenous grapes. Our experience, passed on from generation to generation, ensures that the island’s art of winemaking is maintained with consistency and absolute respect for the past. Born of the volcano, Santorini, at once welcoming yet still awe-inspiring, has for centuries been a unique eco-system. Today, Canava Roussos’ sixth generation of owners, faithfully adhering to the island’s heritage but still valuing modern technology, chooses the best grapes from the island’s varieties (Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani, Mandilaria and Mavrathiro) and produces wines with individual tastes and bouquets. Our journey continues with tradition and quality as our guiding compass points. For the last thirty years, every day during the summer season (April-October), the Roussos family and staff have been receiving visitors at the Canava Roussos Winery at Episkopi-Mesa Gonia,

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showing them around the facility, offering them a chance to stroll among the wine barrels and tempting them with the best flavors from Santorini. You can contact the winery to arrange a guided tour that includes a taste of some of the island’s food specialties and wine samplings from several different newer and older vintages of Vinsanto Roussos, Santorini Roussos, Nykteri Roussos, Rivari Roussos, Caldera Roussos, Athiri Roussos, Mavrathiro Roussos and Nama Roussos. Canava Roussos, a genuinely local venue, takes you back in time to authentic tastes. Our menu features long-standing Santorini recipes that use the purest local produce. We aspire to becoming your number one tasting experience on Santorini. We also invite you to enjoy one or more of our special “Santorini Evenings,” each dedicated to a more extensive sampling of our wines paired with selected dishes. A final note: we often host theater performances, concerts and exhibitions. Check out our FB page for upcoming events.

www.canavaroussos.gr • Tel. (+30) 22860.312.78 • Email: info@canavaroussos.gr

TA S T E W I N E R I E S

Take a Walk on the Wine Side

Santorini has plenty of options for wine tourism; let an expert help you discover the treasures that the island’s wineries have to offer. B Y NENA DI M I T R IO U

ave you ever seen grapevines growing flat on the ground in a vineyard? What would that look like? Well, just imagine a basket, about the circumference of a small barrel, and in this “basket” – known in Greek as as a kouloura (a grapevine shaped into a ring) – the grapes ripen. This is a unique method of cultivation, and one of vital significance to the development of Santorinian wine. The grapes grow inside this kouloura, protected from the blazing sun and low humidity of the local microclimate. We know this, because we’re on a wine tour with a knowledgeable guide. “The kouloura is the basic characteristic of the ancient, own-rooted Santorinian vineyard,” explains oenologist Iliana Sidiropoulou of Santorini Wine Trails. In a unique terrain covering 1,400 hectares situated atop 3,500-year-old volcanic 150

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rock, we see vines with an average age of 70 to 80 years. Among these is one in Mesa Gonia that is 300 years old, with a trunk like a large tree. We become better acquainted with Assyrtiko, the “ambassador” grape of the Greek vinicultural scene, here on its own native soil. Indigenous varieties are the rule on the island; in general, other Greek or foreign grapes are not cultivated in these vineyards – only native ones (there are over 30 in number; the list includes Aidani, Athiri, Mavrotragano and Voudomato). All of these peculiarities are neither imaginary nor part of some marketing trick aimed at promoting oenotourism on the island, which already ranks as a top Greek destination. Thanks to what is, in fact, a truly rare and unique wine tradition, more and more winemakers are seeking to “get a piece of the Santorinian pie.”

The 200-year-old Canava Roussos.

A wine-tasting session at Gaia.

MAKING FRIENDS “Organized wine tours are an easy and enjoyable way to find out about the island and to come closer to the place and its people,” says Mark, an American who, along with his wife Jane, is participating in Iliana’s tour. Another couple are in the group, too, and although Mark and Jane have just met them, they’ve all come to the realization that they have something in common: they know absolutely nothing about the island’s winemaking culture. This wine tour will change that. It’ll give them, and us, the chance to meet the people who make the wine, and we’ll

Info

be able to try the results of their labors. A visit to any of the island’s wineries, old or new, will reveal the reasons why Santorini is such a unique phenomenon in the winemaking world. The wine-tasting glasses sit there, waiting, on the winery’s table. The first selection of the day is a cool, extremely fresh Assyrtiko. Glasses are raised in the air, gleaming golden in the bright sunlight. Sip by sip, our tongues loosen. The wine has more and more of an impact, as its intensity increases. We try a second one, and then a third. This one is more aromatic, with a fuller body and a higher alcoholic content. We find we’re able to distinguish its tang, its peak, its fullness. Some of us come to the conclusion that dry Assyrtiko isn’t for everyone. It has an intense

acidity, a pronounced minerality without great aromatic richness. It certainly isn’t for Jane, the Canadian, who says she prefers sweet wines. She’ll have to wait to enjoy the matured Vinsanto. Four types of wine, each with a different character, are produced out of this one, multifaceted grape: there’s the Assyrtiko in vats, the Assyrtiko aged in barrels, the full-bodied Nykteri and the aged, rare Vinsanto – as sweet as honey. If we factor in micro-terroirs, special vinification processes and the role played by the vintner’s touch in each and every harvest, then just think how many magnificent wines are produced from Assyrtiko! Coming to know the grape that makes Greek vintners proud, both within the country’s borders and overseas, is certainly an experience not to be missed.

Santorini Wine Trails: Emporio, Tel. (+30) 22860.831.03, (+30) 697.900.0568 • www.santoriniwinetrails.gr • Iliana Sidiropoulou organizes two different tours, in small groups of up to six persons. The Wine Lover Tour: A four-hour guided tour of a vineyard and three wineries, with a tasting of all types of wine produced on the island, accompanied by platters of meze. The Foodie Tour: A four-hour guided tour of a vineyard, two wineries (where you’ll taste the different types of wine produced on the island), a microbrewery and a farm, where you’ll taste even more local products. Tour languages: English and French. 152

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TA S T E W I N E ries

GO IT ALONE

A mini-guide for those who’d rather explore Santorini’s wine scene on their own.

Gaia Wines

Why should I go? To visit the “native

land” of the Thalassitis, a singular local wine that has won over many oenophiles around the world, as well as to do some wine-tasting next to the island’s Mavri Paralia (Black Beach). What should I try?

The PDO Thalassitis.

Estate Argyros Why should I go? To admire this established estate’s brand-new, ultra-modern winery situated in the heart of its privately-owned vineyard, all reminiscent of Napa Valley. What should I try? The PDO Santorini Vareli, the Aidani and the 20-year-old Vinsanto, as well as the signature Vinsanto-infused chocolate bar that accompanies it. Episkopi Gonias • Tel. (+30) 22860.314.89 • www.estate-argyros.com

Exo Gonia • Tel. (+30) 22860.341.86 • www.gaia-wines.gr

Santo Wines

Avantis Estate

caldera, and to pick up some local products, conveniently packaged, all within an impressive facility dedicated to the island’s unique gastronomic heritage. What should I try? The PDO Santorini, the Assyrtiko, the Mavrotragano, the sparkling wines and the Kameni made from Mandilaria in the traditional way, as well as the local cooperative’s latest product – Santorini cherry tomato paste with honey, mastic and ginger.

look at a wonderfully preserved “canava” (traditional winery) that is over 200 years old. What should I try? The “Delfinia” and the “Afoura,” both PDO Santorini.

Why should I go? To enjoy traditional dishes, to indulge in wine-tasting while gazing at the

Pyrgos • Tel. (+30) 22860.225.96 • www.santowines.gr

Why should I go? To get a first-hand

Vothonas • Tel. (+30) 22860.224.24 • www.avantisestate.gr S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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Gavalas Winery Why should I go? To taste rare varieties that this family is preserving and protecting through cultivation. What should I try? The PDO Santorini Natural Ferment, the Katsano and the Xenoloo.

Boutari Winery Santorini Why should I go? To get to know the winery belonging to the fourth generation of a family that laid the foundations of modern Greek winemaking. What should I try? The PDO Kallisti Reserve – the first bottled dry white Santorini wine aged in barrels.

Megalochori • Tel. (+30) 22860.825.52 • www.gavalaswines.gr

Artemis Karamolegos Winery Why should I go? To experience the Vinsanto that has been aged for 60 months prior to being bottled. What should I try? The PDO Santorini “Pyritis” and “Mystirio/14.” Exo Gonia • Tel. (+30) 22860.333.95 • www.artemiskaramolegos-winery.com

Art Space

Why should I go? To learn about the

history of winemaking as recounted by an enchanting storyteller, and to admire works created by talented artists. What should I try? The Vinsanto, the Nykteri and the Aghios Avgoustos white. Exo Gonia • Tel. (+30) 22860.327.74 • www.artspace-santorini.com

Megalochori • Tel. (+30) 22860.810.11 • www.boutari-santorini.gr

Vassaltis Vineyards Why should I go? To get a feel for what the new wave of island winemakers is up to at a modern winery built in harmony with its natural surroundings. What should I try? The PDO Santorini, the Nassitis and the Pet (Petillant) Nat (Naturel), in unexpected wine pairings with the ceviche, the tiraditos or the tartare of Greek fish. Vourvoulos • Tel. (+30) 22860.222.11 • www.vassaltis.com

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ADVERTORIAL

Our story began in 1983, when George Psychas opened Sphinx, a jazz bar, in Oia. Two years later, his passion for cooking encouraged him to open restaurants in Santorini and Athens under the same name. Good food needs good wine, and over the years, George’s collection of local and international wines kept growing, eventually leading him to the idea of combining his passions. Thus, Sphinx Wine Restaurant was born. In Oia, a unique traditional building listed for heritage protection by the Ministry of Culture caught his eye as the perfect spot for a wine restaurant. Sphinx is located in the old Captains’ Houses area, and its terrace offers magnificent views of Oia’s spectacular sunsets.

The Sphinx team serves a daily menu of dishes based on Mediterranean flavors, paying extra attention to the quality of ingredients, using vegetables, including fava beans, and herbs grown on George’s own organic farm. The olive oil used comes from his own olive grove as well. The building’s old underground water tank has been converted into a wine cellar, where more than 300 bottles are stored in conditions ideal for ageing. To ensure premium quality, the Coravin method is used for wines served by the glass. The sommelier will advise you on the perfect wine pairing. And what’s better than starting or finishing your dinner with cocktails created exclusively by Sphinx’s head bartender?

Oia, Santorini • Tel. (+30) 22860.714.50 • Email: info@sphinxwinerestaurant.com • www.sphinxwinerestaurant.com

Canava Roussos Why should I go? To experience the oldest canava on the island, a winery which has been left unaltered by the fifth generation of the family running it. A tour here is tantamount to traveling through time! What should I try? The aged Nykteri and the Mavrathiro.

Venetsanos Winery Why should I go? To get a closer look at the first winery to export Santorinian wine, considered to be a milestone in the island’s winemaking history. Its location, on the less photographed side of the island, is exceptional. What should I try? The Nykteri, the Mandilaria and the Anagallis rosé.

Episkopi Gonias • Tel. (+30) 22860.313.49 • www.canavaroussos.gr

Caldera Megalochori • Tel. (+30) 22860.211.00 • www.venetsanoswinery.com

Domaine Sigalas Why should I go? To meet Paris Sigalas, one of the most innovative Greek winemakers, who continues to experiment with the Santorini varieties. What should I try? The Kavalieros, the Nykteri, the Mavrotragano, the Epta; in addition, dine in the winery’s wonderful restaurant, which features uniquely scrumptious local products prepared with creative flair. Baxes, Oia • Tel. (+30) 22860.716.44 • www.sigalas-wine.gr 156

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Hatzidakis Winery Why should I go? To see an yposkafo winery (literally built into the rock), that belonged to the late Haridimos Hatzidakis, who was among the most important Greek producers of recent times. His death was viewed as a huge loss for the world of winemaking. His family now runs the winery. Today, the bottled wines that he created are sought after by collectors. What should I try? The Louros and the Skytali 2017. Pyrgos Kallistis • Tel. (+30) 697.001.3556 www.hatzidakiswines.gr

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Koutsogiannopoulos Wine Museum Why should I go? To take a wonderful tour (available in 14 languages) of an underground wine museum. What should I try? Their limited production, which is only available there. Vothonas • Tel. (+30) 22860.313.22 • www.santoriniwinemuseum.com

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TA S T E R E S T A U R A N T S

The Caldera Dinnersâ&#x20AC;¨ Not treating yourself to a meal with a view of this natural wonder would be like not having gone to Santorini at all. B Y NENA DI M I T RI O U / P H O T O S p e r i k l e s m e r a k o s

PETRA CANAVES

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TA S T E restaurants

AXINOS

axinos

mylos

THE ATHENIAN HOUSE Eating here is a lot like being invited to dinner at an elegant Athenian mansion, which explains why this restaurant won the prize for best ambience and most romantic atmosphere in southern Europe at the 2017 World Luxury Restaurant Awards. Chandeliers and baroque decorative elements set the tone indoors, while outside it’s all about the star-studded sky and the amazing view. The Food: Classic Greek 160

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cuisine is given a complete style makeover in dishes such as moussaka made with a white eggplant mousse, lamb mince and a feta cheese béchamel. The fava is prepared in the traditional manner but served with a spicy soutzouk sausage from Evros in northern Greece and flavored with oak smoke. The chef ’s take on cheese pie and on baklava are also delicious. The Drinks: Go for a refreshing cocktail based on

Greek spirits like mastic liqueur, tsipouro or ouzo. The wine list presents 25 labels from Greece and other parts, with nine served by the glass. Imerovigli • Tel. (+30) 22860.364.20

AXINOS With a boho-chic ambience and a warm welcome, the mood at this restaurant, as well as at the Rocabella Hotel hosting it, is pleasant and easygoing. The Food: Mediterranean

and Greek classics are presented in elegant abstract compositions full of flavor. For example, the tomato fritter and cod croquette with beetroot is a traditional Santorinian dish that’s been given a new look, while the fava with octopus terrine is a classic recipe executed in an innovative manner. The highlight of the dessert menu is the profiterole with three types of chocolate and choux filled either with vanilla ice cream or pastry cream.

TA S T E restaurants

The Drinks: You’ll find more than 60 selections of local, Greek and international wines. Start your evening with a cocktail at one of the pool bars. Rocabella Hotel • Tel. (+30) 22860.237.11

LA MAISON Apart from the amazing view (which takes in the “suspended” village of Imerovigli), this restaurant also stands out for

the fact that its warm, exotic décor and youthful vibe make it refreshingly laidback. The Food: The menu has been designed by Dimos Samourakis, well-known on the Athenian restaurant scene, and is executed by Vassileios Sdrougias, who has worked at top restaurants like Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and Matsuhisha Badrutt’s Palace in St. Moritz. From the à la

carte menu, we recommend the octopus and calamari sautéed with bergamot and olives, and served with a lime sauce: a symphony of flavors with fine notes of citrus. The scampi with spinach, roe paste, herring eggs and tamarisk greens is also excellent. There are two degustation menus – of five and eight dishes – with wine pairings. The Drinks: Most of the 72

wines on the well-priced list are also served by the glass; the champagnes and French selections are only by the bottle. Imerovigli • Tel. (+30) 22860.256.49

LYCABETTUS One hundred steps lead down to this restaurant which is literally on the edge of the cliff. An eye-catching feature is the set of fuchsia chairs at the

lycabettus

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sommelier table, the best seats in the house.   The Food: Modern international dishes are presented with creativity and panache by the incredibly talented chef Pavlos Kyriakis, who spent six years at Spondi, Athens’ top French restaurant. We were impressed from the get-go as we were presented with a selection of appetizers

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including Santorini split-pea fava paste with a caper chutney; crispy pastry shells stuffed with tarama roe paste and avruga caviar; croquettes of cracked trahana wheat, pastourma ham and yoghurt; and a seabass tartare with mango and passion fruit, served on a rice tortilla. For dessert, order the praline mousse with a cocoa bean biscuit or, for something

more exotic, the peanut butter mousse with a mango compôte and a passion fruit cream. The Drinks: The vast and well-researched list of 410 wines includes selections from all over the world but puts the emphasis on Greece, France and Italy. It contains a few gems from Europe’s greatest vineyards. You can also choose from 30 dinner cocktails.

Andronis Luxury Suites • Tel. (+30) 22860.720.41

MYLOS BAR RESTAURANT The ambience here is lovely. The restaurant is located in a beautifully restored windmill, with classic, elegant décor.   The Food: Young chef Adam Kontovas, previously of the Michelin-starred Sea Grill in

TA S T E R E S T A U R A N T S

with a Vinsanto. The wines in between change according to your food selections.

SANTORO GRACE

Firostefani • Tel. (+30) 22860.256.40

PETRA RESTAURANT The award-winning Canaves Oia Resort offers an amazing gastronomic experience. In charge is Stelios Arakas, the distinguished winner of the 2016 San Pellegrino Young Chef competition. The stylish Petra Restaurant, located in the Canaves Suites pool area, has also opened its doors to non-guests for the first time. Note that its super-exclusive Panorama table is already booked for the entire season. The Food: The cuisine is international and creative, and the menu is eclectic, with a range of complex dishes. Try the scallops with cauliflower and a bitter almond foam,

ADVERTORIAL

Brussels, is considered a rising star among his peers. His focus is firmly on the ingredients and, as an avid fan of local sourcing, he has reached out to producers on the island to ensure that his kitchen gets the best of everything. His style is creative and relies on interesting and well-balanced contrasts. The perfect meal here starts with shellfish accompanied by a glass of bubbly, then moves on to the excellent amberjack with mushrooms, onions and black garlic, or the quail with gorgonzola, hazelnuts and espresso.  The Drinks: Award-winning sommelier Aris Sklavenitis has chosen 70 wines from Santorini and a few international ones that constitute the perfect match for Kontovas’ dishes. There are two wine degustation menus of five selections starting with a prosecco and ending

Just 15 minutes from Fira, an exotic paradise awaits. The landscape can be almost overwhelming in its beauty, but between the sea and the jaw-dropping cliffs that tower over the sandy Vlychada Beach, Theros Wave Bar offers all the comforts you need to relax. Get a holistic or deep-tissue massage in the secluded wellness facility by the sea, go canoeing, or just enjoy your sun lounger and the excellent beach service. Then, as the sun sets, head up to the veranda for dinner paired with a classic, tiki or signature summer cocktail, or choose a bottle from the list of select local and foreign wines. You’ll never want to leave! Eros Beach, Vlychada Open 10:00-21:00 | Tel. (+30) 22861.120.15 | info@theroswavebar.gr

TA S T E restaurants

la maison

served with Amaretto-soaked raisins. The lobster ravioli with caviar, lemon cream and a bisque sauce is the essence of luxurious comfort food, executed with finesse, as are the fish-balls made from white grouper and simmered in a delicious egg-lemon broth. After a refreshing pre-dessert of mint sorbet with a merengue and lemon cream, get ready for a selection of exotic treats such as coconut and lime sorbet with pineapple cream and a vanillamango tuile. The Drinks: The wine list features 60 selections from Santorini, the rest of Greece and a few major European wineries. Inquire about the signature cocktails; they are also an excellent food-pairing option. Canaves Oia • Tel. (+30) 22860.714.53 164

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THE ATHENIAN HOUSE

SANTORO This all-white minimalist-yetluxurious dining area is located by the pool of the Grace Hotel, looking out at Skaros Rock. The Food: Talented chef Spyros Agious, who has worked in restaurants owned by the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Arnaud Bignon, enjoys linking his dishes to the place where he’s created them, so expect a lot of volcano references here. Try the Volcanic shrimp dakos with rye rusks soaked in the juices of a Greek salad and shrimp cooked over hot sand, served with vegetables seared for sweetness on the flat-top grill. For an intense sea flavor, order the angel hair pasta soup made with a broth of seaweed and purple dye murex sea snails. The Drinks: The list contains wines from all over the

world, but the highlight is the Champagne Bar where you can find more than 30 selections of champagnes and sparkling wines (cuvée, vintage and nonvintage) and a few champagnebased cocktails. Imerovigli • Tel. (+30) 22860.213.00

SANTO WINES   The restaurant of the Santo Wines agricultural cooperative boasts a privileged location on the rim of the caldera, with space enough to host the hundreds of visitors who come here every day to be shown around the winery, to shop for local products and to enjoy the perfect casual lunch. The Food: Executive chef Vasilis Zacharakis is a local with deep knowledge of Cycladic products, who creates dishes for sharing,

inspired by the family meals of his childhood. There are five different tasting options that combine wine with meze platters as well as a fivewine, four-course menu titled “Santorini’s Gastronomy” which features dishes such as a salad of fresh cheese, caper leaves and rusks; fava split-pea paste with octopus; and pork fillet stuffed with local sundried tomatoes. The à la carte menu consists of local dishes such as hylopites pasta with Cycladic syglino (cured pork). The Drinks: More than 20 selections by the glass and 25 by the bottle represent all different types of wine produced here – dry, sparkling, aged, tankfermented, sweet and red – all bearing the Santo Wines label. Pyrgos • Tel. (+30) 22860.280.58

ADVERTORIAL

For 35 years, Mario Catering on Santorini has been organizing receptions and handling events. During these 35 years, we have earned your trust and your preference. These 35 years have made lifeâ&#x20AC;Ś delicious!

www.santorinirestaurant.gr

www.santorini-catering.gr

SPHINX

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food first B Y NENA DI M I T RI O U

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A view of the caldera might not be on the menu, but you will surely enjoy the cuisine at these restaurants.

PELICAN KiPOS

MR E

Mr. E This year, Mr. E moved to the Istoria Hotel, which is located in Perivolos, right in front of the beach. Overseeing the menu – which is mainly Greek with Mediterranean influences – is Alexandros Tsiotinis, a chef who has served in several awardwinning restaurants in France. He recommends the moussaka croquettes with a pesto made from Santorinian tomato paste – a modern take on a classic Greek recipe. The Greek sushi, with marinated sardines and vine leaf, is extremely tasty as well. If you like more sophisticated and complex combinations, then be sure to sample the carpaccio made with fresh tuna, watermelon and lavender. The wine list includes 38 selections from Santorini, the rest of Greece and other countries, too. Thirteen wines are also served by the glass, while 11 signature, 17 classic and three alcohol-free cocktails are available to precede or follow up your meal. Perivolos • Tel (+30) 22860.287.00

Naos This new arrival on Oia’s culinary scene focuses on wine and Greek tapas. Naos offers morsels from GreekAsian fusion cuisine in a renovated mansion. Creative chef Polychronis Damalas recommends the dolma prepared using Chinese cabbage and shrimp in egg-lemon sauce, as well as the smooth clam ceviche in lemon and coriander. On the rooftop, you can gaze at the sunset in relative tranquility, sipping on one of the options from the wine list, which includes selections from Santorinian wineries, as well as from the rest of the country and around the world. Roughly 10 of these wines are also served by the glass. Naos will soon be open not just for dinner, but as an all-day bar-restaurant. Oia • Tel (+30) 22860.724.13

OIA Vineyart If a crash course in authentic Greek cuisine is what you’re after, then this is the place to be. You’ll find local delicacies prepared in the traditional

method and served in a charming courtyard. Ideal mezes to accompany spirits and wine include salt-cured sardines, Santorinian fresh cheese and sun-dried tomatoes prepared according to a traditional recipe supplied by a homemaker from the nearby village of Finikia. In all their dishes, the young owners showcase seasonal local products. When it comes to wine, the focus is also on Santorini. Noteworthy vintages are preserved and matured in bottles in the cellar.

network of caverns extends to a depth of ten meters. These spaces make up the restaurant’s legendary cellar, which contains over 600 bottles from wine-producing countries around the world, including of course notable selections from Santorini and the rest of Greece. In addition, there is a specially-designed wine tasting space, as well as an aging room, where local wines are matured in bottles. Spirit enthusiasts will have a good time as well, with selections of whisky and other drinks from all over the world.

Oia • Tel (+30) 22860.720.46

Fira • Tel (+30) 22860.234.33

Pelican Kipos The garden of this all-day restaurant, which is ideal for breakfast or a cool afternoon break, stretches out over a large property filled with flower pots, climbing plants, and a variety of trees, including a pair of 60-year-old palms. It is literally a jungle inside the town of Fira. And yet, this is not Pelican Kipos’ most impressive feature. There’s even more to see underground where a

Selene Selene, the first gourmet restaurant on Santorini and, possibly, on all the Cycladic islands, holds a distinct place at the forefront of Greek gastronomy. Under the direction of owner Yiorgos Hatziyannakis and in the care of manager and sommelier Georgia Tsara, it has been offering dishes created using select local products for some 32 years now – long before S A N TO R I N I 2 018

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YALOS

RELAXING BY THE WATER

fava (split pea purée) and domataki (Santorini cherry tomatoes) came to fame. The dining room is elegantly decorated; the epitome of simplicity, it transcends time. Chef Panos Tsikas, a very capable saucier, composes a complex menu, dressing dishes with outstanding sauces. Try the fennel with mackerel marinated in buttermilk, as well as the egg with trachanas (a type of frumenty), asparagus, smoked eel and a broth made using Naxian arseniko cheese. The wine list is pure gold, comprising some 300 vintage and new Greek selections. On the lower floor, Selene’s sister establishment – Selene Meze & Wine – is open for lunch as well, serving up creative Greek cuisine based on scrumptious products from the island and the wider Cyclades. We recommend choosing two or three appetizers to share – dishes like smoked eggplant salad, little dolmas and a variety of Cycladic cheeses. What grabbed our attention among the main courses were the ravioli with shrimp and the little meat patties in a Rhodian 168

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pie. You might want to consider arranging an olive oil tasting session and/or taking Greek culinary classes here. Pyrgos • Tel (+30) 22860.222.49

Sphinx Sphinx is housed in a historic building that used to be a school, was later converted into a raki distillery, and then operated as a sock factory. Its owners love wine and they prove it through the encyclopedic wine list that they have created. Information on the characteristics of each variety will help you select from among the 300 or so options. There are at least 34 wines from Santorinian and other Greek vineyards that can also be enjoyed by the glass. Accompanying the wines on offer are classic Mediterranean dishes with international influences, such as the risotto with lobster tail and orange confit. Head up to the rooftop to catch the colorful sunset while enjoying one of the signature cocktails from their imaginative drinks list. Oia • Tel (+30) 22860.714.50

With cool vibes and Mexican flair, the Tranquilo beach bar at Perissa is great for cocktails and all-day snacks that include lots of vegetarian options. If you’re looking for a posh crowd, highend service and fusion food enjoyed from the comfort of your (expensive) lounger, head to Perivolos, where the stylish beach bar restaurant Sea Side by Notos serves good sushi, burgers and other global favorites. Theros Wave at Eros Beach, near Vlychada, is recommended for quiet moments and comfort food, but make sure to get there before rush hour at 1pm if you hope to find parking. Yalos, at Exo Yialos beach near Fira, serves well-cooked food in a friendly atmosphere and is equally suitable for lunch or dinner; its menu features Greek cuisine with modern Mediterranean influences. Last but not least, the beach bar Akro at Mesa Pigadi is perfect for a quiet time at the seaside and some conversation, as this area is completely off the internet grid. Nice cocktails and good food are served in a space that is in perfect harmony with the natural environment. Theros Wave

Sea Side by Notos

ADVERTORIAL

In the center of the town of Fira, in our old garden filled with palm trees, pergolas and flowers, we have created a space to relax and enjoy a coffee, a drink or a meal. Ten meters below the garden, inside a 400-year-old vaulted cave, is our wine cellar, which stores more than 600 different wines from Santorini, from other parts of Greece and from around the world. Come and join us in our wine cellar for a tasting of Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distinctive wines, accompanied by local and regional cheeses, and browse our stellar collection of wines available for purchase.

OPENING HOURS Daily: 08:00-Midnight www.pelicankipos.com To book a tour or a wine tasting, please contact us Tel. (+30) 22860.234.33 E-mail:Â info@pelicankipos.com Fira, P.O. Box 5, 84700, Santorini, Greece

Metaxi Mas

to krinaki

Ta Postalia tou Aigaiou

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Eat Where the Locals MEET Here are five recommendations for great simple food. B Y NENA DI M I T RI O U

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Restaurants serving authentic home-style food that’s easy on the pocket aren’t exactly abundant on this tourismoriented island. Indeed, there are only a handful of spots for simple cuisine, and none boasts a caldera view. Captain Michalis Damigos opened a traditional ouzeri near the Messaria sports field for his fellow villagers and other locals. All wooden rudders and knotted ropes, the décor is so profoundly maritime it’s surprising Ta Postalia tou Aigaiou (Tel. (+30) 22860.342.34) hasn’t sailed off on the open sea. With Michalis and his wife doing the cooking, the kitchen turns out very nice Greek meze dishes, such as eggplant purée; a spicy Mykonian cheese dip; skipjack filets; and baby cheese pies. All are customarily served with a small carafe of ouzo or tsipouro. They are particularly proud of their roasted liver and their smoked buttery mackerel. Groups of locals often come together, especially on Saturdays, for a sing-along, so there’s a good chance you’ll come across a spontaneous

party. In the lovely village of Finikia, the Krinaki (Tel. (+30) 22860.719.93) taverna consists of a smattering of small tables laid out on the rooftop of an old home with a view stretching to Baxedes Beach and the vineyards of Santorini’s hinterland. You’ll find a selection of starters made with local vegetables, herbs and cheeses, as well as meat entrées from the broader Cyclades area. If the fish plaki (baked in tomato sauce) is on the menu, it’s definitely worth a try for its delicious and fragrant sauce. The menu also includes stuffed tomatoes, moussaka and roast lamb – all prepared as they would be for a home-cooked dinner with guests. The wine is local and nicely priced. Metaxi Mas (Tel. (+30) 22860.313.23) is tucked away behind a church on the main street of Exo Gonia and provides a lovely view over Santorini’s plain. Foreigners and locals alike fill its tables, dining on good Cretan and Mediterranean cuisine. You’ll find Greek staples like split-pea fava dip and dakos rye rusk

with tomato salad, as well as risotto and meat options. Reservations are essential. Roka (Tel. (+30) 22860.718.96) in Oia has new owners but the friendly ambience remains the same. The food is simple and good, and served in a very pretty courtyard decorated with potted plants and a warm color palette. Try the fava, the smoked trout with potato salad and the skioufichta (rustic pasta) with grated xinomyzithra cheese. Dessert is perfect; yogurt sweetened with fruit preserve. Roza (Tel. (+30) 22860.243.78) has set her tables out on a stone patio bordering the main street of Vourvoulos and treats patrons at the taverna that bears her name as though they were guests at her home. You’ll find fresh cheeses, a rabbit and tomato casserole, and garlicky pasta, as well as a good selection of vegetable dishes. The food is very affordable, so this taverna tends to get very busy at peak hours.

PSARAKI

TA S T E R E S T A U R A N T S

Fish Tales Fresh fish and other seafood are precious and these restaurants treat them accordingly, with the respect they deserve. B Y NENA DI M I T RI O U

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South Make the trip to Perivolos for Ta Dichtia (Tel. (+30) 22860.828.18), a restaurant owned by an extremely capable fisherman who has proved an equally deft hand in the kitchen. In the nauticallythemed courtyard, he serves fresh fish cooked over charcoal or poached in seawater and olive oil. Almost all of the island’s wineries are represented on the wine list. Since 1967, The Cave of Nikolas (Tel. (+30) 22860.823.03) has been serving the finest fare from the sea at Akrotiri, along with a very good version of local cuisine with some creative twists. Try the risotto with shellfish and the wine from the owner’s vineyard. Psaraki (Tel. (+30) 22860.827.83) gets its fish from the local fishermen at the port of Vlychada, presenting it in traditional recipes such as red mullet with savoro sauce (garlic,

vinegar and rosemary). You’ll also find a mixed steamed shellfish platter and ceviche made from the day’s catch. The orzo with clams, scampi and mussels is also very good. The wine is mainly white and rosé, and all Santorinian.

North Located at the entrance of the small bay which has become a famous seafood destination, the terraces of Ammoudi Fish Tavern overlook the water, making you feel as if you’re on a sailboat. With more than 40 years’ experience, the owners know how to make the best of the steady supply of fresh ingredients brought by fishermen on a daily basis. (Tel. (+30) 22860.722.98) A garland of octopuses hung out to dry in the sun decorates the entrance of Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna. Try the grilled fish or their lobster spaghetti. The wine list features

local options. (Tel. (+30) 22860.716.06) The owner of Katina’s (Tel. (+30) 22860.712.80) has become a cult figure in Ammoudi Bay. Customers appreciate both the fresh seafood from the open sea and the family atmosphere for which her restaurant is renowned. A photo with the woman herself in front of a pan of sizzling tomato fritters is a must. The customary white and blue of the Cyclades dominates the décor at Armeni (Tel. (+30) 22860.710.53), a simple taverna right on the waterfront that specializes in traditional meze such as fava split-pea dip, tomato fritters, fresh roasted fish and pasta with lobster. You can reach it down a long flight of stairs or by sea from Ammoudi Bay, by arrangement.

GREECE IS | SANTORINI | 2018

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