GREECE IS | SANTORINI 2019 by GREECE IS

EXPERIENCE CULTURE, GASTRONOMY & MORE

SANTORINI

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ISSN: 2529-041X

ISSUE #37 | 2019 EDITION

12 - 30

IN T H E ( K ) N O W

New projects, initiatives and events that turn the spotlight on the natural, cultural and historical heritage of Santorini.

90 - 118

P RIVATE SANTORINI

Our collection of activities that will allow you to experience the true magic of the island, away from the crowds.

120 - 143

EAT & DRINK

A crash course on Santorini wines, a mini-guide to the local wineries and the best places to enjoy the island’s cuisine.

152 - 159

IT ’S PERS ONA L

The prolific American photographer William Abranowicz has captured the light of Santorini like no other. His son tells the story behind the pictures.

TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE 16 ChrisÂ Hemsworth works hard and chooses his roles carefully. He handles pressure by taming it, and turning it to his advantage. #DontCrackUnderPressure was coined with him in mind. SANTORINI: PONIROS

WELCOME

PARADISE CHANGING Santorini is still a magical place, just not quite in the same way as before. B Y G I O R G O S T S I R O S / E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F, G R E E C E I S

Its acclaim continues to grow; Santorini has once again been voted the “Best Island in Europe,” this time by the readers of the US travel publication Global Traveler. And so, too, does the number of visitors; in April alone, the arrivals at Santorini’s airport were up by 25 percent compared to the same month in 2018. Its tourism season is lengthening; in April of 2011, the island received just 935 travelers by air - this year almost 27,000 landed. Digital “likes” are also pouring in; international top model Alessandra Ambrosio – in Santorini for a cover shoot for Vogue Greece – put eight images from the island up on Instagram, and this single post of hers garnered over 1.2 million likes. On the other hand, the problems remain. Rampant construction continues, Santorini’s networks and infrastructure are being pushed to the limit, the environment is under threat and many locals – particularly from the older generation – are beginning to feel like strangers in their own land. I’ll never forget my encounter last year with Katina Preka from Megalochori, who was kind enough to open her home to us one afternoon, showing us into the small living room where she

spends much of her day in the company of old photographs and her TV. “I don’t like how Santorini’s become. We used to go to Fira by donkey, but now nobody goes anywhere except by car. I know families where the father, the mother and the son each have their own car. We had mules, cows, rabbits and pigs. It was my job to take care of them. I also worked out in the fields, weeding and pruning the tomato plants.” Katina represents a part of Santorini that is at risk of being lost forever. Visitors to the island today may find it hard to believe that there are families who once had their main residence in Fira and a summer home in Exo Gonia or Messaria, and that they traveled between them by donkey. I think back on something amazing that the island’s prolific painter Christoforos Asimis had said, and it seems equally impossible: “When we were kids, we used to look down at the sea from the cliffs, and for us it was as though the whole world was like that. I was amazed when I went to the beach for the first time at the age of six; I was looking at the sparkling surface of the sea, and it was as if all the world’s silver was spread out before me.”

Above; Not all the beautiful views on Santorini are of the caldera S A N TO R I N I 2 018 019

CONTENTS G R E E C E I S - I S S U E # 3 7 S A N T O R I N I 2 0 19 E D I T I O N

90 112

132 12. IN THE (K)NOW What’s on, what’s new and what to expect on the island.

62. SAVE OUR SEAS A sustainable future for the island’s marine environment.

112. SUNSET OIA SAILING CRUISES Take to the seas for an unforgettable experience.

34. THE BASICS A crash course on what Santorini is all about.

68. A VOLCANIC LOVE AFFAIR A noted volcanologist shares his story and his favorite spots.

120. A GLOBAL PHENOMENON Yiannis Karakasis, MW, writes about Santorini’s successful wine industry.

72. TIMELINE From the first prehistoric settlers to mid-20th century landmarks showcasing the island’s industrial past.

128. A WALK ON THE WINE SIDE Touring the island’s wineries.

46. UNDER PRESSURE Santorini’s enormous popularity is taking a toll on the things that make it special. 52. ONCE UPON A TIME IN OIA Oia, forty years ago, as seen through the photographic lens of Pamela Browne.

90. CREATING MEMORIES An alternative look at what to see and do on the island.

132. MIRACLES FOR THE MOUTH Some of Santorini’s most fascinating restaurants.

138. THE VFM FACTOR Eating well without spending a fortune. 144. LIGHT AND PAINT Collector Dimitris Tsitouras is lending 180 artworks depicting Santorini for an exhibition in Athens. 152. FAMILY IDYLL An account of the Abranowicz family’s summers on the island, with splendid photos from the period.

ON THE COVER: ILLUSTRATION BY MIKE KAROLOS

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A look at current projects and events.

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A 3D reconstruction of Oia on Santorini for the VirtualDIVER app.

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IN THE (K)NOW

VIRTUAL TRIP

A new scientific project will soon make exploring Santorini possible from anywhere in the world. BY M A R I A C OV E OU

an a volcano that erupted more than 3,600 years ago really compete for the attention of a tourist visiting one of the most romantic and Instagrammable travel destinations in the world? After all, with all the exciting things to experience on the beautiful island of Santorini, what’s so special about volcanic rocks and steaming fumaroles? Paraskevi Nomikou (assistant professor in Geological Oceanography and Natural Geography at the Department of Geology and Geoenvironment of the University of Athens), who has devoted herself to the study of submarine volcanism around Santorini, certainly thinks the volcano has plenty to offer. In fact, she considers it so fascinating that she

and her team are currently developing an integrated platform called VirtualDIVER that will use augmented and virtual reality technologies to make the volcano, and other areas of Santorini, accessible even to those who aren’t able to visit the island. Imagine, for instance, sitting back at home on a cold winter night planning your summer vacation to Santorini and wishing you could get a clearer sense of the island in order to better prepare for your trip. With the help of VirtualDIVER and some virtual reality equipment, your computer screen could transport you to the island, flying you over small white churches and rock-hewn houses, past volcanic rocks and across active craters, making you feel as if you’re actually there.

WorldView-4 imagery has been combined with surface data pertaining to Santorini’s caldera.

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A 3D reconstruction of the “George Crater” on Nea Kameni.

The system will also help those who visit the island in person. If, for instance, you’re hiking across Santorini’s countryside and you come across an ancient ruin or an unfamiliar flower, you can simply point your mobile device’s camera at your discovery, and the VirtualDIVER app will access expert knowledge and an abundance of multimedia information to let you know more about what you’re looking at, making your experience more complete and more satisfying. Perhaps the most impressive ability of the app is the one that puts the “dive” in VirtualDIVER. Let’s say you’re not a great swimmer, or even comfortable out in the open sea, but you wish you could explore it nonetheless. With the help of this app, you can take a virtual deep breath and head underwater, among the colorful denizens of the Aegean sea. Swim alongside a wide variety of fish as you head even deeper, all the way down to areas of the seafloor otherwise accessible only to underwater vehicles engaged in costly research and scientific missions. VirtualDIVER is being developed in collaboration with the Remote Sensing Laboratory of the National Technical University of Athens and the companies TETRAGON, STEFICON and Up2metric. It will be completed in 2021, and piloted in 2020.

IN THE (K)NOW

DISCOVER LOST ATLANTIS A high-tech journey to the legendary city beneath the sea. BY A L E X A N DR A KOSTOP OU L OU

INFO

The museum is open daily from 10:00 to 21:00 • Tel. (+30) 22860.850.76 • Admission €12 (€6 for children aged 7 to 12).

Megalochori is home to the world’s first museum dedicated to the myth of the famous vanished city of the ancient world. Atlantis is one of the world’s most renowned mythological cities and, while many places in the world lay claim to it, the volcanic explosion that laid waste to Santorini is the most plausible explanation of the myth. Perfect for adventure seekers and techno-geeks alike, the Lost Atlantis Experience Museum is operated by eight friends who share a passion for the lost

city. The idea was the brainchild of two of them: George Koukoulas, author of “Atlantis Never Lost: The Story of Santorini,” and Nikos Kontis, owner of LEAP, the innovative Greek tech company responsible for the installations in the museum. Visitors will feel they are truly exploring Atlantis, thanks to interactive videos, animated holograms and augmented reality tools. The highlight of the visit is the 9D experience which plays on all one’s senses to simulate what people experienced during the earthquake and

volcanic eruption that struck Santorini in 1600 BC. The pioneering technology used to explain the Minoan history of Santorini and the myth of Atlantis is amazing. Wearing VR glasses, visitors “enter” the world of Atlantis, with moving seats offering a full roller-coaster effect. They experience 360° immersion, temperature changes, tremors, sounds, smells, wind, lightning and much more. Are you ready to journey through time and space to discover a lost world?

IN CLASSICAL STYLE FROM 06 TO 20/09

TAKE NOTE

The 41st International Music Festival of Santorini will open with works by Mendelssohn, Mahler, Bach and Skalkottas, performed by the event’s founder and artistic director, pianist Athena Capodistria, accompanied by Apollon Grammatikopoulos on violin and the festival’s own string orchestra. Other eagerly awaited performances include a recital by internationally acclaimed Greek pianist Vassilis Varvaresos; an evening of opera with coloratura soprano Vassiliki Karayanni and baritone Tasis Christogiannopoulos; and jazz improvisations on works of Bach by George Kontrafouris on piano and three other outstanding musicians in support. – XENIA GEORGIADOU INFO: International Music Festival of Santorini • Petros M. Nomikos Conference Center, Fira •

Tel. (+30) 22860.231.66

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IN THE (K)NOW

TAKE NOTE DOCUMENTING TRADITION TO 15/09

A mix of myth and melody in an enchanting setting. Back in 2011, Yannis Pantazis, a musician and master craftsman of traditional musical instruments, together with Argy Kakissis, a curator, undertook the restoration of the interior of a 13th-century Venetian tower in the Kasteli neighborhood of the village of Akrotiri in Santorini. Here, they set up a permanent exhibition showcasing the traditional tsambounes (from the Italian zampogna, a type of bagpipe); began to offer practical courses in the making of musical instruments; and organized musical soirées and theatrical events. The La Ponta cultural center was born. Through music, locals and foreign visitors alike explored the island’s history, while the center’s permanent collections awakened in the public a renewed interest in art across the whole of the Aegean. In 2018, the founders of the La Ponta center felt the need to seek a new site. In the town of Megalochori, which was undergoing a cultural revival, a winery 18

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dating back to the start of the 20th century provided them with the incentive to extend their thematic range and the spectrum of their activities. Nine holes in the wall outside the main entrance of the building brought to mind the Nine Muses of mythology, and therefore, in the events of the cultural center, now renamed Symposion by La Ponta, a new emphasis was given to the element of mythology. Visitors can tour the old winery and learn its history, explore the collection of old instruments, and attend theatrical events that draw their subjects from mythology, ancient Greek history and the epics of Homer. Also on offer are practical workshops on making traditional musical instruments, and wine tastings featuring different local wines. - XENIA GEORGIADOU

Symposion by La Ponta, Megalochori, symposionsantorini.com

– XENIA GEORGIADOU

INFO: Santorini Arts Factory • •

Vlychada Beach santoriniartsfactory.gr

A MUSICAL EDUCATION

The Tomato Industrial Museum will be screening the documentary Across Her Body by Zacharias Mavroeidis. Every year, on July 31, the few women who still strictly observe the tradition of fasting prior to the Feast of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary return to the cells of the abandoned Monastery of the Dormition on the southern tip of Therasia. For two weeks, they pray for the eternal rest of the deceased and the good health of the living, while preparing the monastery for the feast day on August 15. The film documents the decline in the tradition of the fast, with a focus on matters relating to faith and identity. In Greek, with English subtitles.

IN THE (K)NOW

OPEN KITCHEN

A cooking class that’s as much about the experience as it is about the food. BY NENA DIM ITR IOU

za-tzi-key. Cooking is a way of communicating with others, and this is exactly what Paula Toro from Chile and Giorgos Katsaounis from the Peloponnese had in mind when they created a cool cooking lesson for visitors who want to know more about the cuisine and food culture of Greece. Paula had been working in a wedding planning agency on the island and Giorgos was a catamaran captain when they decided on this radical career shift and restored a traditional 1950s house dug out of the rock in Megalochori to house their new endeavor. “We invite people over to the house to cook,” says Paula as she explains that this isn’t just another run-of-the-mill seminar, but a four-hour, hands-on cooking and socializing session that

culminates in a meal. It’s like a gathering of friends or extended family members who have come together to prepare food, and eat and drink around a table. Participants are invited to one of two time slots (lunch or dinner) and welcomed with a glass of wine and a meze. Then it’s time to get their hands dirty, learning to make five traditional recipes such as tzatziki (the iconic yogurt, cucumber and garlic sauce), Greek salad, tomato fritters, shrimp saganaki (cooked in a tomato sauce) and moussaka. With the main dish safely in the oven, the chefs relax on the veranda, sipping wine and perusing their gift copies of the Petra Kouzina recipe book before heading to the table. A complimentary dessert and some coffee wrap up the meal they’ve shared with their new Santorini friends.

INFO: Petra Kouzina, Megalochori, Tel. (+30) 698.107.6655 • petrakouzina.com • Classes are held in English. Assistance in Spanish and Greek

can also be offered • Cost: €95/person, including materials, supplies and cooking utensils, welcome meze, soft drinks and wine, meal after the cooking lesson, complimentary dessert and coffee/tea, and the recipe book.

EAT, DRINK AND BE PAMPERED

The new home of the Evia-based winery Avantis is a multi-purpose space focusing on the art of wine. Here, one can spend hours touring the area housing the afoures (large wine barrels) or taking part in a wine-tasting session. Lenga Grigoriadou, the wife of the proprietor Apostolos Moundrichas, has created her own range of cosmetic products based on vinotherapy, which you can purchase at the on-site shop, or even try out directly at the spa space, indulging in a facial treatment. Complete the experience with a meal drawing on Greek traditional cuisine at the restaurant that operates on the site.

Avantis Cellar Doors, Kontochori, Fira, Tel. (+30) 22860.231.40

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MAKING WAVES The athletic event Santorini Experience is bringing in the crowds. B Y PAU L I N A B J Ö R K K A P S A L I S

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hite ripples surrounded what looked like a shoal of large fish moving rapidly across the water. As they drew nearer, however, to the shouts of their supporters, bright swimming caps revealed there was nothing fishy about this group of swimmers. It was October, and Day Two of Santorini Experience, a sporting event featuring both open-water swimming and running competitions. On Day One, crowds had gathered in Oia to cheer the runners across the finish line. This

time of year normally sees tourism slow, but in 2018, 6000 people rolled their suitcases up the island’s alleys for this event alone. Athletes from 45 countries and five continents took part. Akis Tsolis, Chief Executive Officer of Active Media Group, says that, since its inception in 2015, the event has helped double the international October arrivals at Santorini Airport. This year, for the event’s fifth staging on October 4-6, the organizers (Active Media Group, the Municipality of Santorini and the Municipal Sports Cultural and Environmental Organization of

@ SANTORINI EXPERIENCE BY ELIAS LEFAS

Santorini) expect even higher numbers. Meanwhile, all tourists can enjoy watching the competitions. “The hotel guests and the people of Santorini constitute the largest spectator crowd for swimming in the world,” explains Olympic medalist swimmer Spyros Gianniotis. “Nothing beats Santorini’s energy,” says Greek national team member George Arniakos, talking about last year’s experience. “The wind’s so strong, you can smell the sulfur, and seeing the giant rock wall approaching is just incredible.” Arniakos also attributes the energy to

the inclusive nature of the event; anyone can join. Amateur swimmers can choose to use snorkels and flippers for the 2.4kmswim, although their time won’t be recorded. On land, the 5km “Aristides Alafouzos” event is geared towards speed walking, whereas the 10km and 15km events are for skilled distance runners. All routes follow the rim of the caldera. How did a sporting event held at a destination traditionally associated with romance take off? In part, it’s thanks to the media; Fox Sports beamed the event to more than 40 million people in 2016.

But more importantly, it combines sports tourism with existing tourism strengths. Tsolis recalls: “In 2017, we organized marriage proposals after the finish of both the land and sea races. The swimmer actually carried the ring in his swimsuit for 2.4 kilometers! Can you imagine the stress of swimming with that?”

INFO: The event will take place

on October 4-6 • More information at santorini-experience.com S A N TO R I N I 2 019

The impressive 19th-century façade of the Venetsanos Mansion in Messaria.

PRIVATE HERITAGE

Raising awareness about Santorini’s endangered historic mansions. BY LEF TER IS ZOR ZOS

antorini is an island with a monumental environmental and cultural heritage, with sites of immense interest and value situated both above and below the surface of this dynamic volcanic landscape. The island is constantly changing and evolving – both architecturally and geologically – and this means that there is a constant need to preserve and record the heritage of the island. Last year, a group of volunteers created a local committee of the Elliniki Etairia – the Society for the Environment and Cultural Heritage, a group which, as its name suggests, has been fighting to preserve the environment and the culture of Greece since its founding in 1972. As part of the European-wide aware24

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ness campaign “Private Heritage Week,” the local committee of the Elliniki Etairia organized its first event, together with the European Historic Houses Association. For the first time on the island, owners of historic houses opened their doors to showcase the heritage value of each building, while also bringing attention to the challenges associated with preserving them. Santorini is an island of unique archaeological, historical and architectural heritage, but the legacy from more recent historical periods, particularly the 18th and 19th centuries, is often overlooked. A great number of exceptional buildings

were erected during this period, and it was these structures which formed the focal point of this campaign. This first initiative on the island revealed several positive and negative aspects related to the preservation of the island’s architectural heritage. On the one hand, it made clear the artistic quality of our vernacular and traditional architecture, and the dialogue that it has with its environmental setting, as well as the firm commitment of homeowners to preserve their homes in the face of the passage of time. On the other hand, the destruction caused by the earthquake

The ceiling fresco in the Patiniotis Mansion (now home to the restaurant Botargo) in Pyrgos.

IN THE (K)NOW

The main living room of the Venetsanos Mansion, where the flooring, wallpaper and furniture are all original features.

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IN THE (K)NOW

The well-kept garden of the Episcopal Mansion opens its doors for the first time to the public.

Visitors gather outside the Episcopal Mansion, the house of the Catholic bishop in Fira.

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these houses, including photographs, architectural plans, historical records and oral history accounts about the buildings. Working with architects, historians, photographers and videographers, a vibrant catalog of the historic houses of Santorini will be created, and the buildings themselves will eventually form a network extending across the entire island, encouraging policies for their preservation. The local committee’s im-

mediate aim going forward is to include other areas where these historic buildings are also found, including Oia, Foinikia, Karterados, Megalochori and Emporio, with the primary objective of informing inhabitants of the importance of preserving these buildings. These efforts will, of course, be in line with the group’s ongoing mission to rescue and preserve the architectural, cultural and environmental heritage of the island.

of 1956 has meant that several historic houses have been abandoned, and nothing has been done to protect them from dilapidation and destruction. This may be because the structures belong to individuals or families who may no longer live on the island or, in a few cases, because they belong to the state or the local municipality. The Private Heritage Initiative saw 25 buildings across Greece – in Athens, Kastoria, Corfu, Chios and Santorini – opened to the public. On Santorini alone, more than a dozen owners of historic houses and mansions in areas such as Imerovigli, Fira, Kontohori, Messaria, Pyrgos and Akrotiri took part. At the same time, a series of architectural walks took place in four areas (Fira, Messaria, Akrotiri and Pyrgos). The amount of interest among locals and visitors in exploring these historic houses indicates an even greater general interest in the island’s past. More than ever, it’s clear that the preservation of these buildings is crucial. As well as creating an accurate record of them for posterity, it’s important to come up with incentives for their physical preservation. The local branch of the Elliniki Etairia has begun work on a database which will contain detailed information on

The perfectly preserved kitchen at the Argyros Mansion in Messaria offers a glimpse into 19th-century living on the island.

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IN THE (K)NOW

TAKING THE SEA’S TEMPERATURE Pierre-Yves Cousteau is spearheading a new project to chart the effects of a warming world on marine ecosystems. Pierre-Yves Cousteau, the youngest son of the legendary explorer and conservationist Jacques Cousteau, was back in Santorini this summer measuring the temperature beneath the sea’s surface for the sake of a pioneering new environmental project examining the effects of climate change, one which involves hi-tech sensors, science and scuba-diving enthusiasts. Spearheaded by Cousteau Divers – the non-profit organization that PierreYves founded back in 2009 – and conducted with the support of Swiss watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen, the project aims to chart coastal temperatures of the ocean by supplementing satellite surface measurements with ones 28

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taken by thousands of recreational divers around the world using precision sensors. The collected data will then be stored centrally in a cloud-based platform and made accessible to scientists and anyone else interested in the protection of the marine environment. The hope of PierreYves and his team is to contribute to a better understanding of how the ocean’s temperature affects not only the climate, weather patterns and storm formation, but biodiversity as well. Pierre-Yves Cousteau’s latest visit marks the 44th anniversary of his father’s legendary 1975 exhibition to Santorini in search of the lost city of Atlantis, an expedition that, though a failure, did succeed

in revealing to the world the wealth of Santorini’s marine environment – a wealth that had been significantly diminished 34 years later when Pierre-Yves visited the island in order to be certified as a diving instructor. “Santorini has volcanic formations, underwater caves and ravines – a magnificent stage. But where are the actors? Where are the fish?” was his observation, one that compelled him to launch Cousteau Divers. Over the years, he returned to Santorini again and again, spearheading efforts to establish a Marine Protected Area which would help in the recovery of the area’s biodiversity. cousteaudivers.org - MARIA COVEOU

ΟΙΝΟΠΟΙΪΑ ΓΑΒΑΛΑ, Μεγαλοχώρι Θήρας, τηλ.: 22860 82552, www.gavalaswines.gr Αποκλειστική διανομή στην Ελλάδα : ΒΣ ΚΑΡΟΥΛΙΑΣ ΑΒΕΕΠ , Αγ. Στέφανος Αττικής, τηλ 214 6876200

IN THE (K)NOW

BOOKS ABOUND The famous Atlantis Books shop just turned 15. There aren’t many bookshops in the world that are considered destinations in their own right. Atlantis Books in Oia, however, is one such place, having featured for the past 15 years on numerous “must-visit” lists, such as the Top 10 most interesting bookstores in the world, featured in National Geographic’s special supplement “Destinations of a Lifetime,” where it was ranked as No 1. The idea that gave birth to the shop came to two friends, Craig and Oliver, when they were on the island on vacation. It took two years, and the help and hard work of more friends that arrived from all over Europe, before the intrepid cofounders of this unique bookshop housed in a space dug out of the rock could open their doors for business. What they achieved was amazing. They built a veritable rabbit warren right in the heart of cosmopolitan Oia.“The bookshop is, indeed, still going strong! The staff is here, flowers are blooming

and books are flowing in and out like the waves. Our shop just got a fresh coat of paint and our terrace looks better than ever,” says Craig, delighting in the smell of fresh paint, which signals the start of yet another season in Oia. A cat will undoubtedly brush your leg as you descend the steps to the entrance of Atlantis Books, on the main paved street. Mind your head. Two legs may well be dangling above you, from the wooden mezzanine of the dugout space; some of the staff also live here. Squeeze in alongside fellow reader-travelers who have spent a lifetime insatiably devouring the printed page; together, you’ll encounter wondrous heroes from every sort of tale. Along with works addressed to modern explorers, such as “The Pocket Atlas of Remote Islands,” you‘ll also find the verses of Cavafy, under “Greek Poetry.” There are books on Greek history and culture, too, and children’s books, and cook books. The INFO

shop’s inventory includes works by the great classical authors of world literature, as well as Greek writers translated into five languages, together with a good number of rare and collectable volumes. What’s more, Atlantis Books now boasts its own imprint, Paravion Press, as well as an online store. Witty limericks and philosophical musings adorn the walls. The overburdened shelves do not, in general, hold the newest or the trendiest titles. Selections have been made with care.You won’t find just any old book here, only those that have become landmarks in world literature or that promise to be special and unforgettable gifts. There are volumes here that will make you linger for a little longer, in a place that smells of fresh hot coffee in the morning, and provides shelter from the madding crowds. These are books that have moved the owners personally, and are certain to do the same for you. - NENA DIMITRIOU

The bookshop runs the Arts & Literature Caldera Festival, which does not have a fixed calendar of events, preferring instead the happy spirit of spontaneity. For information, inquire within • Oia, Tel. (+30) 22860.723.46, atlantisbooks.org 30

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ON THE EDGE

You can wander through its stone-paved alleys, marveling at its whitewashed dwellings and enjoying its famous sunset, but a bird’s-eye view of Oia puts things in a different perspective. From this angle, it’s clear that the beauty you see around you is the result of what was an intensely violent volcanic eruption, and even though no repeat performance is expected any time soon, the island is sitting on top of a still-active volcano. Yes, humans have found a way to live on the edge of a caldera, but their coexistence with nature is possible only because nature allows it – and that’s exactly what makes this island irresistible.

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Â© JULIA KLIMI

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THE BASICS

TANGLED

ARCHITECTURE

The settlements on Santorini probably wouldn’t be as charming if it weren’t for their architecturally unique yposkafa; these are structures, mostly private dwellings, that have been dug out of the volcanic rock, either partly or entirely. As a result, the villages are architecturally “tangled”– private and public spaces blend together and one home’s balcony forms the roof for another. In the midst of this complexity, however, there is a simplicity as well. The soft clean lines and the absence of right angles lend to the structures an air of rudimentary sculpture, while the magical light of Santorini, which changes hourly, seems to bring them to life. Despite the fact that these buildings were originally created by poor, unskilled laborers as simple shelters against the elements, without much concern for architecture or style, they have become aesthetic paradigms.

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Â© VANGELIS PARAVAS

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THE BASICS

EARTH, WIND AND WATER Unlike other Cycladic islands, Santorini doesn’t boast many easyto-reach beaches; the nature of its coastline makes most of them inaccessible by land. The few that do exist, however, are uniquely enjoyable. Perhaps the most dramatic of them is Vlychada, pictured here. Its black sands, which stretch along the shore for a considerable distance, affording spots with welcome isolation; its crystalline waters, which reach precipitous depths just a few feet from the shore; and its majestic volcanic stone cliffs, sculpted over time by wind and water, all combine to make this beach unforgettable. There’s also an excellent beach bar, Theros, on a section of the beach that has sun loungers.

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Â© VANGELIS PARAVAS

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FORCE OF NATURE

In springtime, even Nea Kameni, Santorini’s volcano islet, sheds its look of unworldly ruggedness and dons a cloak of wild shrubs and flowers that grow from the crags of its oldest formation. But whatever time of year you’re in Santorini, you absolutely must visit this young island (a mere 430 years old), with the newest volcanic surfaces in the Eastern Mediterranean, formed just 67 years ago. A listed natural monument, an active volcano that has given us three eruptions in the last century,

an official Geological Park since 2003 and an ever-popular stop for catamarans on day cruises, Nea Kameni is indisputably an authentic experience. Its uneven terrain will test your mettle (a hat, sunscreen and a bottle of water are essential in the summer), the steam vents near the central crater that eject gases at temperatures as hot as 95° C will wow you, and its thermal springs will invite you to dive into the water – it’s a good idea not to wear your nicest light-colored bathing suit!

There are six departures daily from the port of Fira, and two departures from the port of Athinios; rates vary. At the volcano itself, there’s an entrance fee of €2.50. For cruises with a stop at the thermal springs, ask at Sunset Oia Sailling Cruises (Page 112).

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Â© VANGELIS PARAVAS

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THE BASICS

HAUTE INGREDIENTS Unirrigated and wind-whipped, Santorini’s signature agricultural products survive thanks to the island’s rich volcanic soil, feeding on minerals as they patiently await a rare rainfall. The PDO cherry tomato, the yellow peas known locally as fava, the white eggplant and other local produce are flavorsome stars

of a much-admired local cuisine. Ironically, however, these plants are facing another battle for survival, as Santorini’s farmland comes under pressure from construction and tourist activity. There are still farmers fighting against the odds to keep their land and their crops, but production is falling. Today,

there are many top chefs hard at work investing their considerable talent and imagination to please the palates of the island’s well-heeled clientele. Just imagine what these artists could do if the wonderful native produce were still abundantly available; “haute cuisine” would take on a new meaning.

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Â© VANGELIS PARAVAS

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THE BASICS

VICTORIOUS VINES Why does everyone love Assyrtiko so much? This Santorini variety is born out of a unique combination of factors: there’s no other place on earth where you’ll find such ancient vines growing in mineral-rich volcanic soil under climatic conditions like those on the arid, windswept island. The Assyrtiko grape has adapted perfectly to this harsh environment, taking everything it needs from the terroir, but there’s more than just the plant at work here. The winemakers have developed a vine-training

technique used nowhere else, the kouloura, or basket, at is so perfectly adapted to such extreme conditions of survival. To this, we must also add a singular cultivation technique that the island’s vine growers have been developing for centuries. It is a painstaking system that results in vines that look more like works of sculpture than products of nature, yet one which allows the vines to emerge victorious from the incessant battle against the strong winds and the searing sun.

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TOURISM

UNDER PRESSURE

Santorini’s enormous popularity is taking a toll on the things that make it special. BY J E S SIC A BAT E M A N

very visitor to Greece is familiar with the iconic images of Santorini – those blue-domed churches looking out over the caldera sunset view. But what image do you get if you point your camera in the opposite direction? From April to October, the pretty paved pathways decorating the cliff face at Oia, the village famous for its sunsets, is packed with thousands of visitors all whipping out their smartphones to take the exact same picture. “In peak season, it’s busier than Penn Station at rush hour,” says the island’s former mayoral advisor, Lukas Bellonias. Over the past five years, Santorini has become one of the most popular destinations in the world – overnight stays here have increased by 66 per cent. And 46

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although it’s made the island into a rare financial success story in a country still struggling with the fallout from its decade-long financial crisis, it’s also taking a toll. A recent report on “overtourism” by the EU’s transport committee warned that the island is failing to manage the increasing numbers, spelling disaster for the local community and the environment, and putting “the future of the destination at risk.” According to Bellonias, this steep rise in visitors has been driven by social media. “Santorini has a unique geography that people immediately want to photograph,” he explains. “Before, you’d only show vacation photos to your close friends and family. But now, people share them with thousands.” The cob-

bled streets of Oia have now become a fixture on many an Instagram influencer’s feed. During peak summer months, according to Bellonias, mobile network companies struggle to provide enough coverage for the amount of people taking and uploading images. Bellonias was part of an administration that tried for years to sound the alarm about the situation, before they were voted out of office in May 2019. “Everything has a capacity,” he explains. “Each island can only accommodate a certain number of people.” In 2018, they introduced an 8000-person daily cap on cruise visitors. But Bellonias tells me that far more action

Above, the Nea Kameni Volcano

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TOURISM

Tourists maneuver to snap a shot of one of Oia’s famous sunsets.

The former municipal administration capped the number of day-cruise ship passengers at 8000 a day.

is needed, and the municipality does not have the power to make it happen. “Look,” he says, opening up Google Earth on his computer. “Twenty or thirty years ago there was a village here and a village there,” he says, pointing to the sprawling mass of buildings now covering most of the island’s west coast. “In five to ten years, it could end up as one big city.” The municipality has no power to stop new buildings going up. That responsibility lies with the Santorini Building Authority, which is controlled by central government. The EU report is highly critical of the Greek government, citing its “lack of adequate and appropriate governance” and its failure to implement planning legislation on Santorini. “We can’t forecast the results of this but it’s certain the quality of life will decrease,” says Bellonias. “We’ll have problems that we usually only see in cities.” The island is already plagued by traffic jams in the summer months, and Airbnb has pushed up housing prices so much that employers are having to build new accommodation just for their staff. “There’s a minority [on the island] that really understands these problems and really wants a more sustainable way of managing the island, but many don’t,” he

anything to sell will use it.” He explains that the much-maligned day-cruise visitors come on all-inclusive tours, meaning they add to the crowds but “don’t even buy a postcard.” Ermogenis has begun hanging “Respect” signs around Oia, reminding visitors: “It’s your holiday... but it’s our home” because, he says, “people behave not just badly, but unbelievably so. They treat churches like selfie studios. I’d get woken up at 6am by people traipsing across my terrace.” To understand how Santorini has reached this point, it’s worth taking a look at its past. The island was once one of the poorest and most isolated in Greece; boats from the mainland took two days to reach it. The cave houses carved into the cliff face were created because residents

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says. “The interest of the whole conflicts with the interest of the individual.” One resident campaigning for a better future for Santorini is Michael Ermogenis, a Greek-Australian who has lived on the island for the last 12 years. He is the founder of the Save Oia campaign, which raises awareness of the need for more sustainable management of the island. “Essentially, Santorini is the front window of Greece,” he tells me. “But you’d think that people would look after their own front window – hire cleaners, security. None of that happens.” He is particularly angry over what he sees as the exploitation of the island by multinational companies. “When there’s demand like this, everyone wants a piece of it,” he continues. “All the cruise ships, all the tour operators, anyone who’s got

“TWENTY OR THIRTY YEARS AGO THERE WAS A VILLAGE HERE AND A VILLAGE THERE. IN FIVE TO TEN YEARS, IT COULD END UP AS ONE BIG CITY.”

‘Εδρα: Ιωνίας 110 – Αχαρναί – 13671 Υποκ: Ν. Πλαστήρα 14 – Μαρούσι – 15124 Τηλ: (+30) 2111838002 – www.texni-kosmima.gr info@texni-kosmima.gr & shop1@texni-kosmima.gr ∆ΙΑΤΙΘΕΝΤΑΙ ΣΕ ΕΠΙΛΕΓΜΕΝΑ Κ ΑΤΑΣΤΗΜΑΤΑ ΣΤΗΝ ΕΛΛΑ ∆ Α Κ ΑΙ ΤΟ ΕΞΩΤΕΡΙΚΟ

TOURISM

Oia resident Michael Ermogenis started hanging ‘Respect’ signs after losing patience with tourists’ behaviour.

Pre-wedding photoshoots for Asian couples have become big business on Santorini – much to the dismay of residents, who say such shoots often treat houses and churches improperly.

had few building materials. A devastating earthquake in 1956 destroyed over 500 homes and sparked a mass exodus. And then came tourism. “The people here went from having nothing to, within two generations, holding the keys to Fort Knox,” says Ermogenis. “They have this incredible gift from nature. But they’re clueless about how to manage it.” The island’s famed geography was formed by eruptions from a still-active volcano. Knowing that it could still destroy everything has, arguably, instilled a sense of impermanence in its inhabitants, a feeling of carpe diem. Doesn’t it make sense to squeeze as much money out of what you have while you still can? Other industries that have existed on the island, like farming and wine production, are also under siege. Yannis Valam-

bous, owner of local winery Vassaltis Vineyards, says that the grapes he uses to create blends have quadrupled in price because vineyard owners are building vacation accommodations on their land or selling it off. “I don’t blame people here for wanting to make money; they had nothing for so long,” he says. “But it’s getting to the point where I’m worried it will have the adverse effect, and put visitors off coming.” The constant building and the floods of tourists create tons of rubbish. Santorini, however, still has no proper waste-management facilities, so every bit of trash goes into a huge dump that doesn’t meet EU regulations. Leakage has the potential to affect the surrounding earth, water and air. Bellonias says that every plan for a new landfill site has

SANTORINI STILL HAS NO PROPER WASTEMANAGEMENT FACILITIES, SO EVERY BIT OF TRASH GOES INTO A HUGE DUMP THAT DOESN’T MEET EU REGULATIONS.

been rejected by residents who don’t want it near their homes or businesses. Out of ideas and with little power to bring in new policies, the muncipality’s most recent strategy has been to promote the island as a year-round destination “in order to ease pressure in the summer months.” Of course, this brings with it the risk that crowds will stick around for even longer. What about, I ask Bellonias, introducing more caps on visitor numbers, or a tourist tax? “We could, but how would it work? Say someone wants to honeymoon in Santorini; how do we tell them they can’t come here?” As the debate rages on, the crowds of travellers continue to line up in front of the caldera, posing for pictures with their selfie sticks in hand. No one knows for sure what the future of Santorini will be. But for those of us still keen to see it for ourselves, there are steps we can take. We can visit outside of peak season, not take a day cruise, choose eco hotels over Airbnbs and make every effort to reduce our waste. We all have a part to play in preserving this unique gift from nature.

A version of this article originally appeared in The Economist’s sister magazine, 1843. •

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T he aut he nt ic side of S a ntor i n i

www.esperas.com info@esperas.com

LOOKING BACK

ONCE UPON A TIME IN OIA Australian photographer Pamela Browne takes us back to the days when this now world-famous Santorini village was the end of the line. BY NENA DIM ITR IOU

Babis the bus driver with his wife, Artemia, and his daughter, Evangelia, in 1979. Right, mother and daughter are pictured today in the same bus.

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Â© PERIKLES MERAKOS

LOOKING BACK

Youngsters clambering on their fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boat.

Basket-makers Charis and Roussetos in Baxedes.

Right, conversation over coffee in the kafeneio Lauda. Snapshot of locals playing with an octopus.

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Locals dancing during the religious festival of Saint George in Oia.

rtemia says she can’t remember exactly when photographer Pamela Browne took the family portrait inside her husband Babis’ American-made bus. She does, however, remember having to move from Mesa Gonia to Oia around 1970, when Babis got the concession to operate his bus along with a small subsidy because it was the only vehicle available to serve the residents of the remote upland village. Apart from its regular runs, Babis’ bus was also used to take patients to hospital and kids to and from the secondary school in Fira, as well as to bring in groceries and anything else that was missing in the village, along with the post. During the 1970s, Babis, who drove two scheduled runs a day, often also had to bring the midwife from Fira when a resident went into labor. Oia really was the end of the line. Like many Australians, Pamela Browne decided to travel the world after finishing university. It was the mid-1970s and she was crossing Yugoslavia by train on her way to Budapest when she met a man named Stelios, who spoke to her about a place he said was like no other: Oia in Santorini. Her timeline is a bit fuzzy after 40 years, but she remembers keeping in touch with the young Greek, and later, in 1977, traveling from Piraeus to Santorini with Stelios and his sister on a liner called the “Miaoulis.” The journey was calamitous; engine breakdowns meant it 56

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Argyro, resident of the village of Finikia.

took 48 hours in a vessel reeking of cigarette smoke and the results of seasickness. They stopped for coffee and breakfast with a view of the caldera as soon as they arrived and then took Babis’ bus, throwing their backpacks onto the roof rack. “Traveling with little old ladies and chickens, we reached Oia, after surviving the hairpin bends along sheer cliffs at breakneck speed,” Pamela recounts in the introduction to the art book “Oia: Portrait of a Village 1977-1979,” containing her photographs from that time.

THE FACES It was late autumn, almost winter, with the setting sun casting its orange glow across the village’s white houses, when Pamela realized that there was indeed “something magical” about Oia. She stayed on for 10 months, renting a room on the Armeni steps from the owner of the kafeneio Lauda, which served coffee, omelettes and occasionally canned food. The kafeneio had no fixed prices; you just paid what you could. In the summer, the owner would sometimes rent out his rooftop as well as a few rooms nearby. The village already had a small community of expatriates, mostly Germans from Stuttgart. Pamela also met a French woman, Maria Viard, who had moved to Oia from Burgundy in 1974 after coming to the island, she says, “by accident.” Viard,

Kallitsa, owner of Oia’s grocery store, busy with her knitting.

whose nickname is Baba Vida, ended up buying and fixing up an old building in Finikia and still lives in Oia. There were few foreigners living on the island then, and Pamela got to know them all within a couple of weeks. (Strangely enough, the village also had a monkey someone had brought over from Africa.) The locals, most of them poor, were very friendly and would give the foreigners fruit and vegetables or treat them to a coffee as they returned from their fields on foot or by donkey. Donkeys were used for everything, including carrying heavy sacks of flour and sugar, and even barrels of gasoline for the bus. The kafeneio in the village belonged to Manolis Darzentas; it was close to the road that leads to where everyone goes to watch the sunset today. The main road also had a butcher’s shop, which today is a bar called either Hassapiko (after the Greek word for “butcher’s”) or Marykay’s. There was a baker called Nikos, two greengrocers, one run by Vintsenza and one by Georgia, and a grocery store belonging to Kallitsa in a space that‘s now a clothing store. They sold canned food, toilet paper, condensed milk, fresh eggs and, on occasion, some cheese. There was no running water, so the locals collected rainwater in cisterns and boiled it before they drank it. “We used to have lots of celebrations, and wine, red brusco, flowed freely.” Pamela remembers. The locals danced at religious festivals, including the one in honor of Saint George. “As a photographer, I always had a camera, but I didn’t walk around with it. It was hard to find film in Santorini. That said, it was easy to take people’s photographs; everyone was very relaxed. I photographed them brushing their hair and feeding 58

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their children, and I never had to convince anybody to let me photograph them. I didn’t feel like a bully when I needed to pull out my camera, as is the case now,” she says. Many of the photographs from those days will be on view in her exhibition “Portrait of a Village,” an extended version of her 1979 show, at the Oia Community Centre “Panygirospito,“ from September 5 to 12.

40-YEAR CHALLENGE Change came abruptly to the village. In the early 1970s, the Greek National Tourism Organisation (GNTO) selected six parts of the country to develop, and Oia was one of them. “I remember my husband telling me one day that the bus just couldn’t fit so many passengers,” Artemia says. As she recounts this, she is sitting in the parking garage run by her daughter Evangelia, looking at Pamela’s photos with Maria Viard, Vassilis Mandilaras, a friend of the photographer’s, and Emily Mandilaras, who is co-curating the exhibition with Elias Cosindas. The locals are trying to put names to the faces and to recognize where these pictures were taken. In these photographs, the main road, which is now paved in white marble, has nothing but houses – no jewelry shops, no boutiques and certainly no groups of tourists. Artemia left Oia – most natives have left – when it got a regional bus service and her sons took over from Babis. They, too, are bus drivers, but it’s no longer a one-bus town; there’s bus service from Fira every 20 minutes. The age of innocence that Pamela captured so beautifully in black and white is over. The one thing that hasn’t changed is the view: it remains equally magical, even if you have to share it with a lot more people.

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with the Gofas family. In the Greek market, Gofas boutiques host most of the twenty top Swiss-made watchmaking brands, including Rolex, Hublot, Omega, Panerai, Piaget, Tag Heuer, Zenith, IWC, Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Tudor, Longines, Hamilton, Tissot and other luxury brands. Furthermore, top jewelry designers such as Messika Paris, Fred, Pomellato, Chantecler, Minas, Brumani, Marco Bicego, Salvini compete in the showcases of the boutiques. Tradition, experience, glamour and gorgeous designs unite to compose a magnificent picture for those visiting GOFAS Jewelry boutiques, offering them a unique journey of high aesthetics and luxury! At the same time, in addition to the multi-brand GOFAS Jewelry Boutique at Syntagma, the strong commercial ties with the leading Swissmade watchmaking brand HUBLOT created the prerequisites for the birth of the first HUBLOT boutique in Greece in the center of Athens, with care and diligence from GOFAS Jewelry.

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ANDRONIS ARCADIA

On the outskirts of Oia, where the sunset views and electric atmosphere of the iconic village meet the serenity of the real Santorini, you’ll find Andronis Arcadia. A sense of style and elegance is reflected in every detail; the natural materials, in soft and earthy sand tones, the infinity pools (a private one for each accommodation) that discreetly meld land and sea together, make this a perfect place to relax. Here, at the latest addition to the Andronis Exclusive family of five-star hotels, you’re ensured luxury. The two-bedroom and four-bedroom villas and suites are fitted with all the modern amenities and designer furniture, and they all face the sea, making staying in to watch the sunset a treat you’ll

be longing for all day. The largest accommodation option, the 600-square meter Eden Villa, sits nestled in a secluded, peaceful area, and boasts six bedrooms, two private pools, a fitness center and a spa room. The hotel’s Evexia Spa spoils all guests with luxurious products, tailored treatments and traditional massage techniques. The Pacman culinary area, offering great seaviews, is there for you all day, with numerous options, from cocktails and sushi to Mediterranean dishes, often accompanied by live music events or other surprises. For a dinner experience you’ll always remember, visit the Opson Restaurant, where the chef, inspired by classical Greece, creates modern gastronomic masterpieces.

info Oia Santorini, Greece • Tel. (+30) 22860.719.28 • Email: info@andronisarcadia.com • Sales: sales@andronisexclusive.com

ENVIRONMENT

SAVE OUR SEAS 62

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Schools of fish along the rocky caldera reefs off the shores of Santorini.

The marine world surrounding Santorini is in danger. Urgent action is needed to protect it, and to preserve as much as possible of the rich native biodiversity that once characterized these waters. B Y VA N G E L I S I . P A R AVA S / P H O T O S Y I A N N I S I S S A R I S

ver the last decade, people from different disciplines â&#x20AC;&#x201C; fishermen, scientists, conservationists and maritime professionals, people who are mostly locals and predominantly marine users â&#x20AC;&#x201C; have joined forces to work together to get the seas surrounding Santorini designated as a marine protected area. The continuous and irreversible degradation of the natural environment through the overexploitation of resources (especially fish stocks), unregulated and chaotic development, the increasing pollution and the ubiquitous presence of non-reusable plastics have drastically changed the unique seascape and landscape of this famous volcanic Aegean island. These alarming facts have sparked initiatives such as the founding of Thiraiki Thalassa, a local NGO seeking the formal establishment of a no-fishing zone in the waters around the southwestern peninsula of Akrotiri, one of the most pristine parts of this cosmopolitan island. Unfortunately, this effort has yet to yield legal and binding regulations, despite the long hard work towards that end. Today, more than ever, urgent measures directly contributing to the preservation and protection of threatened and overfished marine species and of degraded habitats are needed. It is to be hoped that the joint efforts being carried out have forged a broad and solid alliance and established a common vision among numerous and seemingly opposing stakeholders. The achievement of a sustainable, healthy and inclusive future for the generations to come has become the expressed wish of a majority of the local community and other interested parties and individuals. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

ENVIRONMENT

VISITORS CAN HELP MAKE A DIFFERENCE. THEIR CHOICES CAN SHAPE THE SUPPLY AND DEMAND OF TOURIST SERVICES AND ESTABLISH PREREQUISITES FOR A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE.

At the same time, Santorini is one of the most popular destinations in Greece, with millions of visitors throughout the year. Tourism has become both a blessing and a curse for the island, bringing in billions of euros to the local economy, but also taking a huge toll on its resources, its natural environment and even its urban landscape. Nonetheless, visitors, along with local professionals and policymakers, can help make a difference. Their choices can shape the supply and demand of tourist services and establish prerequisites for a sustainable future, and for returning the deteriorated natural ma64

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rine environment and vulnerable ecosystems to their former healthy and resilient condition. Responsible and sustainable tourism can play a key role in achieving this goal. The marine environments surrounding the island, both the areas within and outside its famous caldera, constitute a spectacular seascape to visit, with minimal if any negative consequences for marine habitats if such activities are carried out responsibly. Scuba diving is an eco-friendly activity, fully consistent with the preservation of the marine environment, and one that offers the potential

to sensitize, engage and inform the visitor on crucial conservation needs and priorities. In recent years, the island’s small-scale fishermen, for whom the overexploitation of marine resources has meant bringing in ever-diminishing catches, have started to invest in fishing tourism, a relatively new initiative that’s also supported by the EU’s Common Fisheries Policy. Rather than overexploiting the environment to the point of a possible collapse of fish stocks, Santorini’s fishermen have started to modify their activities and avoid industrial-scale fishing practices. Instead, they are inviting visitors to explore fishing methods practiced for millennia in the Greek seas, thereby establishing sustainable livelihoods with a far less destructive environmental impact.

Above, a seagrass meadow and some sunken souvenirs.

ENVIRONMENT

A GREAT NUMBER OF FISH SPECIES, FAMOUS AS LOCAL DELICACIES, CONSTITUTE IRREPLACEABLE ELEMENTS OF MEDITERRANEAN MARINE ECOSYSTEMS.

Responsible seafood consumption is crucial as well in conserving resources and preserving the unique marine habitats of the Aegean. Beyond simply complying with EU and national legislation that protects certain species and bans the fishing and selling of undersized fish, consumers should be aware of additional measures they can take, such as not ordering particular seafood items at certain times of the year, or not eating those species at risk of extinction. A great number of fish species, famous as local delicacies, constitute irreplaceable elements of the Mediterranean marine ecosystems. This is the case for the dusky grouper (Epinephelus marginatus), a marine predator equivalent to the wolves or tigers of the terrestrial environment, which is still sold as a specialty in many fish restaurants. Apart from the grave consequences of consuming top predators that bio-accumulate toxic metals and pollutants (most of which are man-made), the extensive removal of such species, whose primary ecological function ensures prey population regulation and balance, degrades the whole ecosystem and leaves it seriously vulnerable to both existing and future threats, including climate change and bio-invasions. Groupers are, of course, only one example, since most commercial fish stocks in Greek seas have been

assessed as either fully exploited or overexploited. Detailed information for responsible seafood consumption may be found in several guides available from Greek environmental NGOs such as iSea. Apart from responsible seafood consumption, locals and visitors need to readjust their culinary preferences so as to include a range of new invasive and alien species that are seriously affecting the health of Mediterranean marine ecosystems. The Red Sea rabbitfish (Siganus sp.), for example, which has well -established populations in the waters of the Aegean, is discarded by most fishermen, but in Cyprus, it’s considered a prize catch. These invasive species have a serious environmental impact as algae grazers with no predators in the degraded marine environment of the Aegean. The excessive presence of rabbitfish and the spread of other, similar, species further contribute to the overall desertification of the once rich and diverse marine habitats of the Mediterranean. This autumn, the environmental NGOs iSea and Thiraiki Thalassa, with the support of the Cyclades Preservation Fund, will hold

a workshop in Santorini which will also include a culinary event to promote the fishing and marketing of those invasive species that have a serious impact on the marine environment but are perfectly safe for human consumption. The workshop will provide information on alien marine species and how to mitigate the damage they cause, while a specialist chef will demonstrate, for local seafood restaurants, new recipes using invasive species. Santorini is an extraordinary place, with a unique marine environment and an amazing landscape (that emerges from and dives into a caldera) with lunar cliffs and breathtaking vistas. Despite the pressures and threats it faces, the island can retain its rich natural character. Actions such as those described here, coupled with a commitment from the local populace, can help steer mass tourism in a better direction and ensure a sustainable future for the island and the Aegean.

Underwater photography is a sustainable alternative activity for tourists.

LINKS: Thiraiki Sea: fb.com/SantoriniMarineReserves • iSea: isea.com.gr •

Cyclades Preservation Fund: cycladespreservationfund.org

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ADVERTORIAL

A COSMOPOLITAN AIRPORT IN THE WORKS

A new era awaits air travelers arriving on Santorini, after the upgrading and modernization of its airport facilities. Approaching Santorini by sea may have its charms, but that first glimpse of the caldera from above certainly does set the mood for a unique, almost otherworldly, experience. What’s more, this experience is about to improve; in two years’ time, after the completion of upgrades carried out by Fraport Greece, operator and manager of 14 Greek regional airports including that of Santorini, air travel to the island will truly culminate in style, with a landing at an airport befitting this cosmopolitan island. The development works at Santorini Airport (JTR) include the refurbishment and the expansion (by 240 percent) of the existing terminal; the construction of a new fire station; the reconfiguration of the aircraft parking area; a 113 percent increase in the number of check-in counters; a 100 percent increase in the number of the baggage reclaim belts; a 20 percent increase in

the number of departure gates; a 250 percent increase in the number of security-check lanes; and the installation of a modern baggage handling system. Fraport Greece estimates that these works, together with modernizing the airport’s exterior and interior, will not only help handle the expected increase in passenger traffic, but will also contribute significantly to improving the overall customer travel experience. The upgrading of Santorini’s airport is part of Fraport Greece’s development plan for all of its airports (with a projected minimum spend of €415m), the major works for which will be carried out during the first four years of the 40-year concession period. For the remainder of that period, the company will implement further maintenance and upgrade work, as well as capacity expansion (depending on traffic growth), resulting in a potential total investment of some €1bn.

jtr-airport.gr/en

PERSPECTIVES

A VOLCANIC LOVE AFFAIR

A German volcanologist with decades of experience on the island shares his knowledge with visitors who wish to explore what lies beyond the standard attractions. BY TOM PFEIFFER

I’

ve always been fascinated by the forces of nature; storms, fires, big waves, volcanos. When I was five, my great-aunt showed me a picture book of the world and I remember being transfixed by a certain picture of the Stromboli volcano erupting at night. Little did I know then that, many years later in 1994, I’d be experiencing Stromboli erupting in person. Or that many years after that, I’d be organizing tours to another active, though dormant, volcano in neighboring Greece. Becoming a volcanologist wasn’t something that I’d planned; it was the result of a series of happy coincidences, the first of which led me to Santorini in 1997 to replace a guide who was doing geological tours for German tourists. Santorini in the late 1990s was already quite touristy, and I kept meeting people (both tourists and locals) who had been familiar with the island for a long time and were complaining that it had changed a lot. “You should have been here 20 years ago,” they’d say. Nowadays, I’d tell you the same thing, but back then everything

was new and impressive. There were stylish villas, luxurious shops and exciting nightclubs; there was also a still relatively unspoiled countryside with hospitable villagers and, of course, a landscape that could tell you more about geology and volcanos than any textbook ever could. In this open-air museum of volcanology, I met my future mentor and tutor, geologist Walter Ludwig Friedrich, who was conducting research on the Santorini volcano and who, before leaving the island, invited me to join his team. I quit my (not-so-exciting) studies in mineralogy at the University of Kiel in Germany and enrolled in the Department of Geology at the University of Aarhus in Denmark, where he was teaching. The more I got into my new study subject, the more fascinating I found Santorini. This island witnessed one of the most significant natural events of the Bronze Age – an eruption that ranks as one of the largest during the past 10,000 years or so, and that is believed to have played a role in the demise of the most advanced civilization of the time, that of the Minoans. This was

01. A narrow bay on Nea Kameni with iron-rich warm underwater springs. 02. A perfectly shaped “breadcrust bomb” from Nea Kameni. 03. View over the main harbour of Nea Kameni with the caldera cliffs of Imerovigli and Fira in the background.

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PERSPECTIVES

PERSONAL HIGHLIGHTS

The caldera cliffs near Megalochori and Athinios. Although not the highest, they show the most amazing and varied succession of impressive volcanic layers draped over the old non-volcanic basement of the island: an open picture book to read the life story of Santorini!

Hiking through one of the many “pumice valleys” on the Akrotiri peninsula.

the eruption that I decided to do my thesis on, so I started visiting Santorini to collect samples and take measurements. It was in 2002, during such a visit, that I came across a 3,600-year-old olive tree that had been buried alive in the pumice deposit. A branch from this tree has allowed the most precise dating so far of what’s called the Minoan Eruption, to 1613 BC (+/- 13 years). Today, after countless visits to the island, I can say that, in some ways, I know it better than many locals. Perhaps that’s why I feel confident in showing people around, as if it were my home. And it is my home, in a sense, even though I don’t feel the same connection to the locals today as I did at first. I think overtourism has changed people; so many are focused on making money nowadays. I, on the other hand, am still the same volcano freak who likes to tell stories about how this volcanic island came into being. And it may seem surprising, but there are quite a few travelers from all over the world willing to listen to my stories and join me on my tours around the island. My groups are always small and the participants are usually in their 50s. Though all of them are interested in 70

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learning, they don’t necessarily have a prior interest in volcanology; most are simply looking for an alternative vacation that involves something more than just lying on a beach. Of course, they’re only human, so I’ll also show them to the non-volcanic areas of the island (Pyrgos, Profitis Ilias, Mesa Vouno) and take them on scenic hikes of the caldera for photos, and to beautiful Perissa Beach for a swim. I’ll go out with them for dinners, drinks and socializing, too. Still, I’m mostly interested in showing them that there’s more to the island than luxurious villas, epic sunsets and congested streets. So, in the spring, I’ll take them to areas covered in poppies and daisies, and down paths where you can hike for hours without encountering others. And, of course, I’ll take them to Akrotiri, to the caldera and to Palia Kameni and Nea Kameni to show them how Santorini “writes” its history on its rocks, on the pottery still trapped in its soil, on its craters, and on its cliffs. Like most travelers, my clients, too, come with preconceptions. I think they leave, though, understanding you can only get to know the real island by approaching it like a new acquaintance: with an open mind and empathy. You might then hear its truth, about a dormant volcano which may seem harmless but is actually capable of great destruction. And while this isn’t cause for present alarm, it is cause for awe and great respect.

The small bay of Balos near the village of Akrotiri. The area is particularly interesting, as it’s likely that it was already being used as a harbor in Minoan times. The first houses from the Bronze Age were discovered in this area in the early 19th century, but the findings are now lost. Today, you can observe an ancient exposed cinder cone and spectacular volcanic layers. It’s also one of the best places for swimming or just taking photographs.

The traditional houses in the middle of old villages like Pyrgos or Emporio. I can’t help but admire their layout and their appearance, the alternating straight and curved lines, and how they can be both functional and in harmony with their surroundings. The aesthetic result is quite unique to Santorini, like the singular style of a painter.

Sitting at the seaside on Akrotiri Beach during the blue hour, the sea spray reaching you while you’re eating grilled fish accompanied by simple house wine flavored by the old barrel in which it was aged.

The archaeological excavation of Akrotiri, which has unearthed a part of an impressive town about 4,000 years old. It’s certainly one of Europe’s most important archeological sites. It is in many ways similar to Italy’s well-known Pompeii (covered and destroyed by the ashes of Vesuvius volcano in AD 79) but it’s almost twice as old. I highly recommend visiting the place in the afternoon, when it’s normally quieter, and taking one of the excellent official guided tours for your first visit. An amazing world will come into view if you can see through the dust covering the stones. • FOR MORE INFO: www.volcanoadventures.com

NATIVE ECO VILLAS Eco Canava * Eco Residence * Eco Villa Ημεροβίγλι, Σαντορίνη | Imerovigli, Santorini Tel.: +30 22860 21734 | Fax: 22860 21581 Email: info@native.gr | www.native.gr

T H E PA S T © VANGELIS ZAVOS

A well-to-do lady dressed in Minoan-style clothing, wearing make-up and jewelry, perhaps in attendance at a public or religious ceremony. Room 2, House of the Ladies, Akrotiri (Museum of Prehistoric Thera).

Ceramic figurine of a woman, with well-preserved painted details; possibly a mourner rending her hair, a typical gesture of grief; 7th c. BC, Ancient Thera (Archaeological Museum of Thera).

Santorini’s character has been shaped by the actions of both man and nature, and the

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T H E PA S T

A Santorinian woman, circa 1825. A detail from a colored lithograph (Aikaterini Laskaridis Foundation Library).

results never cease to amaze.

Vicky Nomikou, member of a prominent Santorini family, on the porch of the Langadas Mansion, with Pyrgos in the background (1954).

BY JOH N L E ONA R D & GIORG O S T SI RO S

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T H E PA S T

17th c. BC The earliest inhabitants of Santorini (Thera) arrived by at least the 4th millennium BC. Over time, more and more people migrated to the volcanic island, settling in particular on a peninsula (“akrotiri”) at the island’s southern end, near a natural harbor. In the Early Bronze Age, 74

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from ca. 2500 BC, the site of Akrotiri became increasingly prosperous and architecturally elaborate – an urban center and maritime hub whose civilization peaked in the Middle and early Late Bronze Ages (ca. 2000-1625 BC). In the last quarter of the 17th c. BC, a massive eruption

changed everything, burying the town of Akrotiri beneath meters of fallen ash. Thus was created one of the Mediterranean’s great archaeological sites. Covering about 200,000 square meters (20ha), it represents a sealed time capsule of Aegean Bronze Age life.

03 01. Some thirty-five buildings, separated by a network of streets and small squares, are visible beneath the modern roof. 02. Wall painting from the House of the Ladies, found in Akrotiri. (Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira)

Akrotiri was heavily influenced by the Minoans of Crete, who likely were frequent visitors to the town or permanent residents. Cultural affinities with the Minoans included a light-spirited appreciation of nature and life, reflected in the many colorful frescoes so far recovered.

In addition to lush landscapes and images of dolphins, monkeys and boxing boys, there are scenes from a naval battle, indicating that life on Santorini wasn’t always serene. Minoan influence is evident, too, in the multi-storied constructions, suites of

04 03. Over 50 different shapes can be distinguished among the thousands of vessels found during archaeological excavations. (Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira) 04. Gold ibex figurine, 17th century BC. Very few precious artifacts have been found at Akrotiri, since the inhabitants probably took their valuables with them when they left the island. (Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira)

rooms with multiple doors, light wells, lustral basins and sophisticated water-sewer system. The excavations have yielded a trove of artifacts, but the inhabitants themselves, perhaps warned by preliminary earthquakes, seem to have escaped before the final cataclysm. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

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AKROTIRI HIGHLIGHTS 1

XESTI 3 Xesti is a Homeric word used to describe buildings with exterior walls constructed of dressed stones. Each of these structures was numbered in the order in which they were discovered. Buildings with such distinctive masonry were clearly not random. Indeed, some of them have been shown to have had a public character. These include Xesti 3, left of the entrance to the archaeological site, and Xesti 4, a little to the right. Others, with a more limited use of dressed stones, have been proven to be private houses, apparently belonging to prosperous families.

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BETA BUILDING A two-story construction located east of Telchines Street, Beta Building has suffered much damage from the seasonal stream that flowed beside it. Inside this building were found some of Akrotiriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important wall paintings: the Boxers, the Antelopes, the Blue Monkeys (pictured) and the Four-footed Animals. (Museum of Prehistoric Thera)

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ENTRANCE

MILLHOUSE SQUARE Inside the south entrance to the structure known as Complex Delta (Δ15), a milling installation was found. The small square located just in front of the entrance to this place is conventionally called the “Millhouse Square.”

HOUSE OF THE LADIES A large three-story structure with a central light well, it owes its name to the wall paintings that covered the north and south walls of one of its rooms (pictured: female figure from the south wall). Three colored ribbons, reminiscent of waves, form an arch, probably representing the celestial vault, over the figures. In the western part of the same room, the Papyrus Fresco was found (Museum of Prehistoric Thera)

TELCHINES STREET In ancient mythology, the Telchines were sea monsters with human faces, believed to have taught the art of metalworking to humans. This name was given to the first street that was unearthed - and which later proved to be the town’s main thoroughfare because in Building Gamma, the first building encountered on the road’s left side, a ground-floor room contained heavy stone hammers and anvils, indicating that it was a metallurgical workshop.

ALPHA SECTION This is a building complex on the northern edge of the excavation. It’s also known as the Pithoi Storeroom, this name coming from the discovery in the complex’s three largest rooms of many “pithoi” (storage jars) containing legumes, flour and barley. Next to it is the North Mill, in which was found a milling facility and a basket containing fish and sea urchins.

TRIANGLE SQUARE This is the largest public square in the town of Akrotiri, at the point where Telchines Street ends. Located on the west side of Complex Delta, it was thus named because of its shape. On the southwest side of the square is the House of the Anchor, while on the northwest side stands the West House.

SQUARE OF THE DOUBLE HORNS Double horns were an element of Cretan prehistoric architecture copied by Thera’s wealthy merchants/sailors, but we don’t know exactly what they symbolized. Given the close economic and cultural relations now recognized to have existed between Thera and Crete, especially after the beginning of the 2nd millennium BC, such cultural transmission seems unquestionable.

THE WEST HOUSE This house, with three floors and sixteen rooms, was once a grand residence. On the ground floor were food stores, workshops and a mill installation. Upstairs, there was a workspace with a loom, a storage room, a toilet and two additional rooms serving as living rooms during the day and bedrooms at night, both adorned with magnificent wall paintings and other fine decorations. From these rooms come the murals of the Fishermen (detail pictured) and the famous miniature known as either the Fleet Fresco or the Flotilla Fresco. (Museum of Prehistoric Thera)

CURETES STREET When other streets began to emerge through further excavation, the practice established by Spyridon Marinatos, the discoverer of Akrotiri (pictured here), of naming them for mythical groups was maintained. One such group was the Curetes, benevolent spirits who protected the baby Zeus from his father Kronos by using their metal instruments to produce a loud noise.

INFO Akrotiri lies at the southwestern tip of the island, 15km from Fira • The archaeological site is open 8:00-20:00 daily except Thursdays (8:00-15:00) until the end of October. Winter hours: 8:00-15:00 daily except Mondays • Tel. (+30) 22860.819.39 • Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Tel. (+30) 22860.254.05 • Open 8:00-15:00 daily except Tuesdays. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

8th c. BC-4th c. AD

After the great eruption, mainland (Dorian) Greeks colonized Santorini in the 9th and 8th centuries BC. Geometric-era graves and pottery reveal that the island’s new center was now on the hill of Mesa Vouno, at Ancient Thera, near the island’s east coast. The town flourished in Archaic times (7th-6th c. BC) as well as in Hellenistic times (3rd-2nd c. BC), when the Greek rulers of the Ptolemaic Kingdom in Egypt exploited its port as a strategic naval base. Since 1895, archaeologists have unearthed paved streets, courtyard houses, a theater/council house, gymnasia, an agora, public buildings and temples and shrines dedicated to Greek or Egyptian gods. 78

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3rd c. BC

Marble grave stele (early 3rd c. BC, Archaeological Museum of Thera), showing Alexibola, the deceased, bidding final farewell to a seated man, probably her father. The woman’s tender, respectful gesture, touching the older man’s beard, and his reciprocal touching of her arm expresses the great affection felt between the two figures. This stele was displayed in the highly acclaimed 2017 exhibition “A World of Emotions: Greece, 700 BC-AD 200” (Onassis Cultural Center, NY; Acropolis Museum, Athens). The exhibition’s lead curator, Angelos Chaniotis, notes that emotions shaped Greek culture no less than reason. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

The Virgin of the Sweet Kiss, a 12th-century icon brought from Constantinople to Panaghia Episkopi.

T H E PA S T

12th c. In early Christian times, Thera became the seat of a bishop, Dioskouros (AD 324-344). Churches and chapels were established, sometimes replacing pagan temples or shrines. Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s preeminent Byzantine church is Panaghia Episkopi at Mesa Gonia, commissioned by Emperor Alexios I Komnenos in the late 11th century. As the new episcopal headquarters, featuring architectural spolia from Ancient Thera and extraordinary frescoes (ca. AD 1100), the church has survived invasions, fires, earthquakes and Catholic appropriation (1207). Today, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s known for its spirited August 15th commemoration of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin. 80

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13th-17th c.

With the Crusaders’ victory over Constantinople in 1204, the Venetians moved into the Aegean. Over the next four centuries, Santorini gained a rich mixture of cultures, finding itself on the fringes of disputes between Byzantine, Venetian, Genoese, Catholic, Orthodox, Catalan and Ottoman powers. The larger settlements were stoutly walled. These “kastelia,” with gateways and “goulades” (watchtowers), stood at strategic spots – Skaros (Imerovigli), Oia (Castle of Aghios Nikolaos), Pyrgos (now Aghios Georgios Monastery), Akrotiri (Punta Castelli) and Emporio (pictured above). They later spread beyond their walls during more peaceful times. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

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17th c.

Skaros, west of Imerovigli, holds a commanding view over Santorini’s caldera. Today a desolate, ruin-strewn rock formation, it was once the core of a thriving Venetian settlement, with an Upper (early 13th c.) and Lower Castle (17th c.). Closely packed on and around Skaros were 200 houses, public buildings, Catholic churches, a cathedral and an Orthodox monastery (Aghios Nikolaos, 1651). The citadel was an impregnable refuge from pirate raids. Following destructive earthquakes, beginning with the 1650 event (associated with nearby Kolumbo’s eruption), Skaros declined. By the 1820s, it had been abandoned. 82

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The Church of Panaghia Kalou in Pori (8km NE of Fira) is a testament to the resilient spirit of Santorinians in the face of numerous dangers, including Catholic and Muslim invaders, marauding pirates and violent earthquakes and eruptions. The islanders defended themselves both practically, living within walled towns or subterranean houses, and spiritually. To secure the Holy Virgin’s protection, Panaghia Kalou was constructed after 1649-50, known as the “Time of Evil,” when the undersea Kolumbo volcano (7km NE of Santorini) erupted, killing people and animals. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

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1888

At sea, the age of sail was drawing to a close, while on land the age of industrialization was in full swing, with mining, textile production, tomato canning and wine exports all enjoying impressive growth. Wealthy families were becoming more “urbanized,” as they built mansions, imported lumber for their furniture, and slept on lace bedding. It is this period to which you will be transported as you enter the former mansion of wine merchant George Argyros, in Messaria. This stately building, constructed by local craftsmen according to plans drafted by Bavarian architects, was seriously damaged in the 1956 earthquake and remained in that state for 35 years until the Ministry of Culture designated it as a protected heritage property, paving the way for a lengthy and faithful restoration. 84

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ÂŠ VANGELIS ZAVOS

1956

Sadly, many other notable structures on Santorini did not share the good fortune of the Argyros Mansion, and were never renovated. The earthquake, which measured 7.5 on the Richter scale and struck the island in the early hours of July 9, left many buildings half-destroyed and exposed to the elements. Just a few dozen meters from the Argyros Mansion in Messaria stands the Markezinis Mansion, with its wild bougainvilleas and jungle-like garden. Having partially crumbled to the ground, it now faces the threat of collapsing entirely. This house stands as a silent witness to a very different way of life, one abruptly interrupted. There are dozens of similar buildings in Oia, Pyrgos, Fira and Kontochori. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

T H E PA S T

Mid 20th c.

Two mid-20th century landmarks, open to the public, showcase Santorini’s industrial past to visitors. The first is the D. Nomikos Tomato Industrial Museum - SAF, in Vlychada, once home to one of the nine tomato canneries operating on the island. The second is Santorini’s first industrial winery, designed by trailblazer George Venetsanos, which was recently returned to operation. For a glimpse into the island’s mining industry, visit the Lignos Folklore Museum in Fira. In the brightly lit mine shaft below the museum, you can see how Theran pumice – a formidable, widely exported contruction material – was extracted. 86

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MAP ILLUSTRATION: VASILIS GEORGIOU

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INFO

1. The archaeological site of Akrotiri is open daily 08:00-20:00. Tel. (+30) 22860.819.39. Admission €12. 2. The Museum of Prehistoric Thera is open daily 08:30-16:00 except Tue. Tel. (+30) 22860.254.05. Admission €6. 3. The archaeological site of Ancient Thera: open daily 08:30-16:00 except Tue. Admission €4. 4. The Archaeological Museum of Thera, Fira, open daily 08:30-16:00 except

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Tue. Tel. (+30) 22860.222.17. Admission €2. 5. The Church of Panaghia Episkopi, open daily 10:0012:00 & 14:00-17:00. Tel. (+30) 22860.314.36. 6. The Venetian Castle of Emporio: The village of Emporio is located on the southern side of Santorini, 12km from Fira. The Tower of Goulas is also found here, a short distance from the village. 7. Skaros, Imerovigli: Descend the steps located next to the Church of Aghios Georgios in Imerovigli. These

will take you to the 400m-long dirt path that leads to the peak of Skaros. 8. The Church of Panaghia Kalou, located 8km northeast of Fira. 9. Argyros Mansion, Messaria, open daily 10:00-18:00 except Mon & Thu. Tel. (+30) 22860.316.69. Admission €5. 10. Santorini Arts Factory (SAF), Vlychada Beach, open daily 10:00-18:00 except Mon. Tel. (+30) 22860.851.41. Admission €10.

11. Venetsanos Winery, Caldera Megalochori, open daily for tastings from10:0021:00 (€15 for 4 wines), tours from 11:00-17:00 (€6 per person), and 18:0022:00 to simply enjoy wine by the glass/bottle with a view of the sunset. Tel. (+30) 22860.211.00. * Visitors can purchase a joint ticket for €14, valid for four days, which grants entry to the first four archaeological sites and museums listed here, as well as to the Icon and Heirloom Collection of Pyrgos.

EXPERIENCE

CREATING MEMORIES Tear up the standard list of must-dos and grab our alternative guide to Santorini instead. B Y A L E X A N D R A T Z AV E L L A / P H O T O S P E R I K L E S M E R A K O S

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SUNRISE SNAPSHOTS

Although the sunset steals all the glory, the sunrise on Santorini is just as spectacular. Set your alarm clock for the early hours when the island is still asleep and make your way up Mt Profitis Ilias. From a ledge near the monastery of the same name, you’ll be able to take some amazing photos as the sun rises behind the island of Anafi, painting the sky in shades of yellow and pink. For the next 60 minutes, during what

photographers call the golden hour, the sun’s rays gradually illuminate the sugar-white houses of the villages further inland. You may want to take part in one of the two-hour photo workshops organized for the past five years by Konstantina Sidiropoulou (kyellow.photo, Tel. (+30) 698.630.2711), a graduate of the Leica Academy in Athens. Konstantina will show you other sunrise spots and share tips to help you become a better photographer.

TIP: Start early and you’ll have Santorini all to yourself until the first cruise ships arrive (daily, at around 07:00).

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Off-the-beatenpath is the way to go to discover hidden gems like the beautiful mosaic courtyard of this small private church.

Dozens of abandoned traditional houses are begging to be explored in the villages of the island’s interior.

EXPERIENCE

KEEP WALKING Santorini isn’t an obvious destination for hardcore hikers who want to lose themselves in nature, but its walking paths hold many unexpected delights. The island’s most scenic trail – an absolute must, according to TripAdvisor and other sources – is the one that connects Fira and Oia. Most of the route (9.8km, hiking level: moderate to partly difficult) is stone-paved and follows the rim of the caldera. Along the way, there are two places you can stop for water, ice and a rest; you’ll often meet fellow walkers here. If, however, you’re looking for the road less traveled, try a tour of the inland countryside: follow the old path that connects Pyrgos and the tourist-free settlements of Exo Gonia and Episko-

pi Gonia, where you‘ll discover ghostly neighborhoods of rock-hewn dwellings abandoned after the earthquake of 1956. Another option is the trail between Vothonas and Messaria, whose highlights include the Argyros Mansion, open to visitors; some now-deserted industrial buildings; the Chapel of Panaghia Sergena, carved into a cliff-face; and one of the island’s most impressive ravines. For the past 20 years, Nikos Boutsinis has walked the length and breadth of Santorini, revealing the villages and their secrets to small groups he guides (santoriniwalkingtours.com, Tel. (+30) 697.160.3600). Depending on the route you choose, there are stops at a local brewery, a winery, or for cooking lessons.

TIP: The best time to start the hike from Fira to Oia is 16:30, so that you arrive in Oia before sunset. For other walks, morning hours are better. P.S. Avoid geotagging!

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The route between Fira and Oia offers a five-star view.

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IT TAKES TWO TO PADDLE Three famed volcanic beaches (Red, White and Black), eerie sea caves, and imposing rock formations that look like sculptures, including “Indian Rock,” so named for its likeness to the facial profile of a Native American, are all on the itinerary as you paddle your kayak along the southern coast of Santorini. But there will be surprises as well; for one thing, you’re likely to run into plenty of members of

the animal kingdom, including the Eleonora’s falcon, shoals of fish, sea turtles and, as you reach the shore, partridges and rabbits. If you’re in good physical condition, it’s worth paddling into the caldera (southwest), where you’ll find yourself in a truly surreal setting, or to the edge of the bay at Kamari on the southeast coast, to see the abandoned rock-hewn hermitages

at Mesa Vouno, where monks lived in the 17th century. The starting point for all trips is Santorini Sea Kayak at Akrotiri. Tours include time for snorkeling and a picnic, while the guides – certified by British Canoeing – are highly experienced kayakers who have been exploring the waters around Santorini since 2011. (santoriniseakayak.com, Tel. (+30) 22860.852.37, 695.180.1051).

TIP: You’ll think yourself lucky as you admire (and photograph) the famous beaches from the vantage point of your kayak, cleverly avoiding the crowds and, in the case of Red Beach, the danger of falling rocks.

KATHAROS BEACH

BEST CHANCES FOR A QUIET SWIM

If you prefer unspoiled natural beauty to modern amenities, there are plenty of beaches free of loungers, beach umbrellas and bars. Katharos (in the northwest), with sand and small pebbles, is a great choice for basking until dusk; it offers a wonderful view of the sunset. A favorite with hikers is Koloumbo (in the north), where swimsuits are optional. Park on the main road and walk 10 minutes down the grassy path. It might be interesting to know that around seven miles offshore there’s a submarine volcano of the same name. Pori (in the northeast), the sandy beach locals love, requires descending about 50 steps. Little-known Almyra (in the south) can be accessed via a narrow dirt road. 94

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01. At Palio Koureio, a traditional kafeneio in Emporio.

02. Go treasure hunting at the shop Crossroad Antiques in Pyrgos. 03. A view of the old windmills on the far side of the valley at Emporio.

EXPERIENCE

VILLAGEHOPPING In the quieter, lesser-known villages of Santorini, there’s plenty to explore as you lose yourself in labyrinthine alleys and make your way up to the fortified medieval districts, or kastelia, that crown many of their hilltops. Pyrgos, once the island’s capital (7.5 km from Fira) and still its highest settlement, is built around one of these kastelia below Mt Profitis Ilias. A short ascent will be required, but you’ll be rewarded with sights such as the Theotokaki, a tiny 14th-century chapel, and a panoramic view of the nearby islands. In the village, you’ll find boutique cafés, elegant restaurants and small art galleries. If you have a penchant for antiques, a ver96

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itable treasure trove awaits at Crossroad Antiques. Alternatively, relax with a cool ouzo in the shade of the main square. Emporio (9km from Fira) used to be the commercial hub of Santorini. Today, it’s the largest village on the island, an enchanting maze of small houses, arches and passageways so narrow at some points that only one person can squeeze through at a time. Following the signposts uphill, you’ll come to the kasteli, where the fronts of the tightly packed houses form part of the fortification. Before leaving, take time for a Greek coffee at one of the two traditional cafés, among the most charming on the island.

(Right) Getting lost is the best part of exploring the labyrinthine lanes criss-crossing Emporio.

TIP: The quietest time to visit the

villages is either in the morning, or at sunset when most other visitors to Santorini have taken up position at sunset spots on the caldera’s edge.

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ANCIENT VANTAGE POINT

High up on the hill of Mesa Vouno, the stunning views and incredible history combine to make a visit to Ancient Thera a thrilling, not-to-be-missed experience. One moment you’ll be admiring the ruins of a city inhabited from the 9th century BC to AD 726 (including a theater, sacred precincts, and a gymnasium where athletic contests were held), and the next you’ll be looking out across the eastern and western sides of the island. You may

notice that you are, in fact, higher up than the aircraft coming into land at the airport! The easiest way to get to Ancient Thera is from Kamari, either ascending on foot or driving up the country road that connects the site to Messaria. The actual tour around the archaeological site involves a medium-difficulty walk on rocks that can often be slippery. You’ll need closed footwear, a hat, sunblock and water. Make sure you have cash on you – the ticket booth does not accept credit cards (admission €4, open Tue-Sun, 08:30-16:00).

TIP: Without a doubt, the climb

up to the site and the tour around it are more pleasant in the cool of the morning. If you can, come in springtime when the ancient city is alive with daisies and poppies in full bloom.

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EXPERIENCE

DIVERS’ DELIGHT The stunning beauty of Santorini isn’t limited to the land; it also extends to the sea depths that so impressed Jacques Cousteau back in 1975 when he was searching for the lost city of Atlantis in the caldera. Thanks to the exceptional underwater visibility (25-35 m), the mild water temperature (up to 24°C in summer) and the submarine topography, it‘s considered one of the best places in the Mediterranean for scuba diving. As you descend into the caldera, you’ll discover firsthand the form and composition tak100

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en by the petrified lava after the massive prehistoric eruption. You’ll see volcanic chimneys and the walls off the islets of Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, as well as volcanic step formations that begin at the surface and reach a depth of 150m. One must-see is the Mansel Reef, featuring caverns, a great wall, overhangs and canyons, as well as three shipwrecks, two of which can be reached even by beginners. You’ll also get close-up views of marine creatures such as amberjacks, sea turtles and sponges.

INFO: A number of PADI-accredited diving centers operate on the island: Volcano Diving Center, Kamari, Tel. (+30) 22860.331.77, Atlantis Oia, Oia, Tel. (+30) 22860.711.58, Aegean Divers, Aghia Irini, Pyrgos, Tel. (+30) 22860.332.01, Santorini Dive Center, Perissa, Tel. (+30) 22860.831.90, Mediterranean Dive Club, Perissa Beach, Tel. (+30) 22860.830.80, Navy’s Waterworld, Kamari Beach, Tel. (+30) 22860.281.90.

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IT’S A JOY TO RIDE

Whether you’re a skilled rider or have zero equestrian experience but dream of a movie-like horseback ride on the beach, you’ll have a story to tell for years about this experience on the less touristy southwest side of Santorini. Setting out from the Akrotiri area, you’ll follow trails and country roads inland, passing vineyards and farmhouses, before reaching the picturesque Church of Aghia Anna with its striking blue dome. From there, you’ll head for the

pristine beach of Katavati and then on to the lunar landscape that is Vlychada Beach, for unique snapshots with a dramatic backdrop of cliffs carved by the wind into passable imitations of structures by Gaudi. Your guide on this two-hour, 8.5km excursion will either be Nektarios, who was born and raised on Santorini and has been riding since an early age, or one of the other experienced riders of Santo Horse Riding (santorinihorseriding.gr, Tel. (+30) 697.554.1447).

TIP: Early in the morning and

late in the afternoon, the light is better for taking photos, and the beaches on the route are less crowded.

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There’s much more to the organized cycling tours than just the exercise, as all sorts of enjoyable surprises lie in wait along the way.

THRILLS ON WHEELS With its rugged terrain and its often unbearable vehicular traffic in high season, Santorini may not seem the most bike-friendly island, but you’d be surprised how pleasant an organized bike tour can be. One delightful cycling tour in southern Santorini, covering a total distance of 26km, starts at Perivolos Beach, continues along country lanes to Emporio, and then follows the wine roads as far 104

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as Megalochori, before ending up back at Perivolos. You won’t need to worry about getting tired, because you‘ll be riding electric-powered mountain bikes from Santorini MTB Adventures, an enterprise run by Vassilis Zafiris. He has both the know-how and enthusiasm to turn you into a passionate explorer as well. There are rest stops along the way, and you’ll walk with him through villages on the route, visiting a traditional kafeneio in Emporio as well as the picturesque Church of Aghios Nikolaos, built on the rim of the caldera at Megalochori, where

Zafiris will fill you in on its history as he shows you around. He’ll take photos of you framed by the famed heart-shaped rock opening and, before he brings you back, will also take you to the restaurant Feggera in Megalochori for some local wine and snacks. (santoriniadventures. gr, Tel. (+30) 698.028.9453).

TIP: The bike tours are half-day excursions, and the best time to set off is around 10:00.

EXPERIENCE

EASY SUNSETS

You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be swept along by the human river of sunset worshipers who head for the Kastro of Oia every afternoon. If you leave Oia instead and walk for 10 minutes on the path towards Fira, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ll come to the charming Church of Mikros Profitis Ilias, where the sunset 106

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view is equally spectacular. The perfect spot from which to admire the small white houses and blue domes of Oia is at the entrance to the village, before the desalination plant. Stay on a while to see the lights of Oia gradually come on as the stars come out. Capture the moment with a time-lapse video.

TIP: Check online for sunset times and set

off as late as possible for Oia, arriving after all the busses have already parked. Another reason to wait and see the moonrise is to avoid traffic on the return trip.

EXPERIENCE

SEAFARING STORIES Santorini’s maritime traditions and the islanders’ profound love for the sea are rooted far in the past, but seafaring activity here reached its height in the 19th century, considered the golden era of the island’s nautical history, when maritime commerce boomed. Large sailing ships with great capacity would depart from Santorini, laden mainly with pumice stone and local wine, destined for ports from the Black Sea to Egypt, and would return with exotic cargoes and the rich experiences of their crews. During those long journeys, the highly skilled Santorini

captains distinguished themselves with their naval prowess. Today, this history is vividly presented in the Maritime Museum of Thera in Oia. Drop by this renovated two-story sea captain’s house with its cobblestoned courtyard to see rare 17th-century figureheads, models of ships that belonged to old seafaring families, nautical instruments and marine watercolors (405 25th March, Oia, Tel. (+30) 22860.711.56, open daily except Tue, 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00).

TIP: The museum is a cool and quiet spot, even when the crowds of sunset gazers start to descend on Oia.

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Santorini’s glorious seafaring history is on display at the island’s Maritime Museum, a small space suffused with an air of nostalgia.

ADVERTORIAL

In the center of the town of Fira, in our old garden filled with palm trees, pergolas and flowers, we have created a space to relax and enjoy a coffee, a drink or a meal. Ten meters below the garden, inside a 400-year-old vaulted cave, is our wine cellar, which stores more than 600 different wines from Santorini, from other parts of Greece and from around the world. Come and join us in our wine cellar for a tasting of Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distinctive wines, accompanied by local and regional cheeses, and browse our stellar collection of wines available for purchase.

OPENING HOURS Daily: 08:00-Midnight www.pelicankipos.com TO BOOK A TOUR OR A WINE TASTING, PLEASE CONTACT US Tel. (+30) 22860.234.33 E-mail:Â info@pelicankipos.com Fira, P.O. Box 5, 84700, Santorini, Greece

EXPERIENCE

CATCH A MOVIE

Watching a movie outside on a warm summer night is a great Greek summer experience, and the perfect place for this is at Kamari’s open-air cinema, listed among the Guardian’s top ten open-air cinemas worldwide. Catch the latest blockbuster in a lush garden, with a cocktail or beer in hand (Kamari, Tel. (+30) 22860.334.52). At café-restaurant Volkan on the Rocks by Ergon Foods, they screen “Mamma Mia!” and “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” alternately. Grab a table in the flower-fringed courtyard with a spectacular view out over the caldera, order a hot or cold snack and put on headphones for a better sound experience (Firostefani, next to the Nomikos Conference Center, Tel. (+30) 22860.283.60).

TIP: The movie at Cinema Kamari begins at 21:30, but

arrive earlier for one of the coveted deckchairs. At Volkan on the Rocks, the show starts at 21:00, though it’s worth going earlier for a drink with a memorable sunset view.

INDUSTRIOUS ABOUT ART The old factory that once processed one of Santorini’s most famous agricultural products, the local cherry tomato, has been transformed into the Tomato Industrial Museum. Drop by to see the production line with the old machinery and try the tomato paste (exclusive to the museum) that’s made using traditional methods. The tour might include can-sealing processes, information on the label design or even a cooking demonstration focused on tomato paste. The 110

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museum is housed in the main building of the plant that operated from 1945 to 1981; the whole complex, which also houses cultural activities, is known as the Santorini Arts Factory. Explore all the spaces here; enjoy the works by photgraphers Dewi Glyn Jones and Christophoros Doulgeris, and the documentary by Zacharias Mavroeidis on the traditional fast prior to the Feast of the Dormition on Thirasia. (Vlychada, open Tue-Sun, 10:0018:00, Tel. (+30) 22860.851.41).

TIP: The museum has very few visitors

before noon. Before leaving, go for a walk on Vlychada Beach, which at that time is almost deserted.

SAILING

“AN AWESOME WAY TO SEE SANTORINI” The best way to experience this magical island by sea is to choose one of the many options on offer from Sunset Oia Sailing Cruises, proud owners of the largest and most modern fleet of leisure craft on Santorini.

egardless of the vantage point from which you observe it, Santorini is a spectacular island to behold. Its hidden beauties, however, such as its picturesque coves and remote beaches, can only be experienced on a boat trip that will take you away from the throngs of tourists. The prestigious touring and sailing yacht rental company Sunset Oia has been a leader in providing activities on the seas around Santorini since it was launched in 2009. From its base in Oia, the company offers exclusive, semi-private and tailor-made excursions on board a wide variety of top-of-the-line boats, combining affordable packages

with luxury and comfort, and always with passenger safety as a top priority. For this reason, Sunset Oia’s vessels are manned by professional captains and expert sailors with years of experience under their belts. In addition to morning and sunset options and excursions around the volcano, with breaks for swimming at the hot and cold turquoise patches created by the sulfur springs of Palia Kameni, travelers with Sunset Oia can also enjoy other sea adventures, including snorkeling in the deep blue waters around the caldera, sunbathing while taking in the striking beauty of the landscape, or even just sampling the delicious snacks and dishes available on board, all while being treat-

Unparalleled vistas await you on board the Sunrise II.

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ed to the outstanding personal service offered by Sunset Oia. The variety of destinations and the sheer quality of the 17-strong fleet has earned the company top ranking in its category according to TripAdvisor, making it a strong international competitor. “Beautiful cruise around the caldera. Really enjoyed the different stops – Red Beach, snorkeling stop, hot springs and most of all the sunset,” writes one happy customer, MartinK, from Kenya. Fine local wines and refreshments are offered to guests in generous amounts for the duration of the tour. The company has received accolades for its cuisine, which includes local delicacies such as grilled shrimp and skewered chicken or pork, along with an array of vegetarian options made using the finest local produce. It’s little wonder, then, that a large number of TripAdvisor reviewers talk enthusiastically about the on-board cuisine. “Sunset Oia was amazing; everything

THE VARIETY OF DESTINATIONS AND THE SHEER QUALITY OF THE 17-STRONG FLEET HAS EARNED SUNSET OIA SAILING CRUISES TOP RANKING IN ITS CATEGORY ACCORDING TO TRIPADVISOR.

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01. The semi-private excursions aboard a Lagoon 450 are ideal for those looking for some quiet time. 02. Refreshments are served on board the Sunset Santorini catamaran. 03. The Iguana, a Speedboat 35, is suitable for couples as well as for adventurous groups of friends. 04. Relaxation and some serious sunbathing on board a Taiti 80 catamaran. 05. Snorkeling in the blue waters of the caldera basin is an unforgettable experience. 06. Tailor-made trips offering total comfort and elegance on the brand-new Pardo 43.

was so clean on the boat and the crew very kind. Also, [it was] the perfect number of guests and not over-crowded at all. The food was delicious, and my mother and I enjoyed watching it being cooked fresh right there on the boat. Would highly recommend this tour to anyone looking for a classy time!” writes krystianag from Long Island, New York. Reviewers also praise the crew’s experience and willingness to help out and make the cruise a memorable one. “This was the highlight of our holiday. The boat was very clean, and looked after. The staff on board were brilliant. They couldn’t do enough for you. Coming over asking what drinks you like, taking your pictures for you, having a chat, telling you what you were looking at, holding your hand as you got around the boat. You guys were amazing, I can’t thank you enough,” writes 661Gabriellee from London. It’s not just the exquisite facilities and cuisine that make Sunset Oia cruises worthwhile; it’s the special memories that will last a lifetime, and the feeling of satisfaction that lingers on well after the trip has ended. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

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S/Y KALLISTI LAGOON 380 CATAMARAN SLG

MEET THE FLEET

PRIVATE TOURS Built: 2019 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 38ft/11.6m Passengers: 10 MAX Enjoy an all-inclusive private morning or sunset excursion on this luxurious Lagoon catamaran. Your cruise around Santorini includes 3 stops for swimming and snorkeling at the White and Red beaches and the hot springs. Full barbecue meal, unlimited drinks, towels, snorkeling equipment and more amenities are provided. The sunset tour ends at the picturesque port of Oia.

All cruise options include transportation from and back to your hotel.

S/Y SUNSET SANTORINI LAGOON 400 CATAMARAN SLG

S/Y SUNSET ANAFI LAGOON 450 CATAMARAN SLG

LAGOON 450 CATAMARAN SLG

S/Y SUNSET DELOS

S/Y SUNSET SIKINOS LAGOON 450 CATAMARAN SLG

PRIVATE TOURS Built: 2015 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 40ft/12.2m Passengers: 14 max

PREMIUM SEMI-PRIVATE Built: 2016 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 45ft/13.7m Passengers: 14 max

PREMIUM SEMI-PRIVATE Built: 2017 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 45ft/13.7m Passengers: 14 max

PREMIUM SEMI-PRIVATE Built: 2018 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 45ft/13.7m Passengers: 14 max

Enjoy an all-inclusive private morning or sunset excursion on this luxurious Lagoon catamaran. Available for 5-hour morning or sunset excursions around Santorini, with stops for swimming and snorkeling at the White and Red beaches and the hot springs. Full barbeque meal, unlimited drinks, towels, snorkeling equipment and more amenities are provided.

Enjoy an all-inclusive semiprivate morning or sunset excursion on this luxurious Lagoon catamaran. Three stops for swimming and snorkeling: at the hot springs, at the White Beach and at the Red Beach. Sails past Aspronisi, Akrotiri, Indian Rock and the old lighthouse. Enjoy Greek delicacies and the on-board barbecue. Unlimited drinks, snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided. The sunset tour ends at the picturesque port of Oia.

Indulge in a journey of sensations on this luxurious catamaran. Experience the unique pleasure of bathing in a hot spring, and swim and snorkel at the Red and White beaches. Take great photos of the old lighthouse and Indian Rock. Enjoy scrumptious Greek delicacies and barbecue treats. Unlimited drinks, snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided. The sunset tour ends at the picturesque port of Oia.

If you’re yearning for some peace and quiet, book a semiprivate tour with this brandnew luxurious catamaran and discover some of Santorini’s most impressive spots and sights. Feel your body relax as you indulge in a hot bath in the mineral-rich volcanic waters. Discover unique places as you swim, snorkel and take the most beautiful photos at the Red and White beaches.

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S/Y SUNRISE II LAGOON 560 CATAMARAN SLG

TAITI 80 CATAMARAN SLG

S/Y SUNSET IOS

S/Y EXCLUSIVE TAITI 80 CATAMARAN SLG

S/Y SUNSET MILOS IPANEMA 58 CATAMARAN SLG

PREMIUM SEMI-PRIVATE Built: 2014 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 56ft/17.1m Passengers: 20 max

SHARED EXCURSION Built: 2015 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 80ft/24.4m Passengers: 55 max

SHARED EXCURSION Built: 2017 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 80ft/24.4m Passengers: 55 max

PREMIUM SEMI-PRIVATE Built: 2017 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 58.4ft/17.8m Passengers: 20 max

Choose either a 5-hour daytime or a sunset cruise. The excursion begins and ends at the picturesque port of Oia. Three stops for swimming (the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach), as well as an on-board barbecue with local delicacies, salads, unlimited Santorini wine, beers and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

One of the two largest catamarans in Sunset Oia’s fleet, the Sunset Ios departs daily for 5-hour morning and sunset tours around the caldera and the beaches on the south coast of the island. Full BBQ menu, salads and unlimited drinks on board. With a comfortable layout and a large space for dancing, the Sunset Ios is also available for wedding parties and other events.

You’re in for a treat on board the catamaran Exclusive, which, like its sister Sunset Ios, is large enough to accommodate various events. The tour includes stops at the hot springs and the Red and White beaches and features an onboard barbeque. Refreshments abound and so does delectable local white wine.

Enjoy an all-inclusive 5 hours semi-private morning or sunset excursion on this luxurious Fountaine Pajot 58 catamaran. The tour begins and ends at the port of Oia and includes three stops for swimming: at the hot springs, at the Red Beach and at White Beach. An on-board barbecue features local delicacies and unlimited Santorini wine, beers and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

S/Y SUNSET OIA LAGOON 500 CATAMARAN SLG

S/Y SUNSET AMORGOS LAGOON 520 CATAMARAN SLG

PREMIUM SEMI-PRIVATE Built: 2009 • Cruising / Sailing • Overall Length: 50ft/15.2m Passengers: 20 max

PREMIUM SEMI-PRIVATE Built: 2016 • Cruising / Sailing • Overall length: 52ft/15.8m Passengers: 20 max

Enjoy an all-inclusive semi-private morning or sunset excursion on this luxurious catamaran. Three stops for swimming: at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach. The on-board barbecue features local Greek delicacies, salads, unlimited Santorinian white wine, beers and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided. The sunset tour ends at the picturesque port of Oia.

Available for 5-hour morning and sunset tours starting from Ammoudi Bay and Vlychada respectively. Includes stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach, as well as an onboard barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

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M/Y EMILY

F. P. CUMBERLAND 46 POWER CATAMARAN SEMI-PRIVATE TOURS Built: 2009 • Cruising • Overall length: 46ft/14m Passengers: 14 max Two powerful 310 hp engines allow this vessel to cruise at a maximum speed of 20 knots, while the hulls are specially designed for maximum stability. A shallow draft allows it to approach hidden island beaches safely. Full barbecue meals, Greek appetizers, unlimited drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included. The sunset tour ends at the picturesque port of Oia.

S/Y FOLEGANDROS OCEAN VOYAGER 74 CATAMARAN SLG

SPEEDBOAT 35 LUX SPEEDBOAT

SHARED EXCURSION Built: 2011 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 74ft/22.5m Passengers: 48 max

LUXURY Built: 2010 Cruising Overall Length: 35ft/10.7m Passengers: 4 max

Available for 5-hour morning and sunset tours, starting from Ammoudi. Includes stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach, as well as an on-board barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment is also included.

Enjoy an exciting adventure in style on a private morning or sunset tour aboard this luxury speedboat. Swim at secluded beaches or enjoy a romantic cruise. With quick and easy adjustments, the exterior space can be transformed into a lounging area. Gourmet snacks, unlimited drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included.

M/Y PARDO 43 PARDO MOTOR YACHT

M/Y ALEXANDROS FERRETTI 680 MOTOR YACHT

M/Y ALEA ALFA MARINE 72 MOTOR YACHT

LUXURY Built: 2019 Cruising Overall Length: 44ft/13.4m Passengers: 4 MAX

LUXURY Built: 2002 Cruising Overall Length: 69.5ft/21.2m Accommodation: 4 cabins

LUXURY Built: 2009 Cruising Overall Length: 72ft/22m Accommodation: 4 cabins

The luxury motor yacht PARDO 43, with its innovative technology and superior performance, offers comfort and luxury for an unforgettably stylish adventure on a private morning or sunset tour. Tours start and end at the charming port of Oia. Explore the volcanic beauty of Santorini and Thirasia and swim at the famed Red and White beaches. Savor local appetizers and unlimited drinks. Towels, snorkeling equipment and other amenities are provided. (Guests can choose different routes, according to their desires). 118

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The perfect choice for yachting and private tours. Four sumptuous cabins (including a master bedroom and a VIP bedroom with king-size beds and luxurious en-suite facilities) and lower-level and upper-level decks with high-end amenities make this an ideal choice for luxury excursions and islandhopping. Gourmet snacks, unlimited drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included.

With a maximum speed of 40 knots, the Alea connects Santorini with Mykonos and remote islands of the Small Cyclades. Available for day trips or multi-day cruises, the motor yacht features spacious indoor and outdoor areas for leisure and enjoyment and four luxurious cabins with en-suite bathroom facilities. Firstclass service, gourmet meals, beverages, towels, snorkeling equipment and other amenities are included.

M/Y IGUANA

INFO

sunset-oia.com Tel. (+30) 22860.722.00 Mob. (+30) 698.026.8881 reservations@sunset-oia.com

YA C H T- M A S T E R 4 2

ADVERTORIAL

THE WATCH OF THE OPEN SEAS

Rolex is proud to announce that it is extending its Yacht-Master range with the presentation of its new Yacht-Master 42 model. Yacht-Master sailing watches are instantly recognizable, thanks to their distinctive bidirectionally rotatable bezel with a raised 60-minute graduation.

www.rolex.com

The new model is fitted with a Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic that perfectly complements its black lacquer dial. Its sides and lugs, created from 18K white gold, highlight the profile of the new 42mm Oyster case. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more, it offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and perhaps even more so in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The Yacht-Master 42 is equipped with the mechanical movement calibre 3235, which is at the forefront of watchmaking technology and offers fundamental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. It is fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet and an Oysterlock safety clasp and is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 meters. Like all other Rolex watches, the Yacht-Master 42 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures its excellent performance.

WINE

A GLOBAL PH Soil, sea and soul have conspired to establish this small islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enormous

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Â© VANGELIS PARAVAS

ENOMENON reputation in winemaking.

BY YIA NNIS K A R A K ASIS M W

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ONLY IN SANTORINI There are many wine regions in the world that claim to be unique. Bordeaux talks about its stunning Grand Vins, Burgundy about possessing the “Holy Grail” that is Pinot Noir, and the Rhone about its invaluable schist soils and staked vines. But if there’s a wine-producing area in the world that deserves special attention, it’s Santorini, one of the oldest continuously productive places for winemaking. The island boasts ancient vines of indigenous varieties (estimated to be between 200 to 400 years old) that are cultivated using a singular training system called “kouloura,” or basket, to protect the grapes from winds that can exceed 80 kilometers per hour and to create a small pocket of humidity on an island with scarce rainfall, all on the slopes of one of history’s most aggressive volcanoes. On Santorini, men and plants know they can expect little from the climate. Often, they can do little more than hold on to hope. Nevertheless, in the phylloxera-free (phylloxera are extremely destructive pests that attack grapevines) volcanic soil of this “Jurassic Park” of vines, the grape variety Assyrtiko produces tiny yields of world-class wines with natural strength, tremendous freshness and a profound mineral footprint, proving once again that great wines are children of poverty.

ONE OF THE OLDEST CONTINUOUSLY PRODUCTIVE PLACES FOR WINEMAKING, SANTORINI BOASTS ANCIENT VINES OF INDIGENOUS VARIETIES (ESTIMATED TO BE BETWEEN 200 TO 400 YEARS OLD). 122

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STYLES AND TRENDS There is just one designated appellation on the island, PDO Santorini, which covers both the dry wines and the lusciously sweet Vinsantos. Styles and trends include: Taut and mineral: The classic taut and sometimes backward-in-its-youth unoaked style made from 100% Assyrtiko is the most well-known manifestation of Assyrtiko and a perfect expression of Santorini’s uniqueness. The PDO law permits small quantities of Athiri and Aidani to the blend (optional, but up to 25% for both) and, if included, these varieties produce broader and softer wines. Lees ageing: this is a popular technique used by wine producers to fill the mid-palate and balance Assyrtiko’s mouthwatering bright acidity. If done wisely, it can add more layers of complexity while retaining the varietal expression. This shorter ageing period can be from a few months to almost two years. The oak factor: Whether oak is needed or not is a point of debate; the best oaked examples, however, display a lovely, creamy, toasty complexity reminiscent of a white Burgundy. Santorini Nychteri used to be made by pressing the grapes the night immediately following the harvest. Although the name still exists today, Nychteri can now be many things, as regulations simply state that it contain a minimum 13.5% abv and undergo three

Stomping the grapes at harvest time, when the whole island celebrates.

months’ maturation in oak. Some producers, therefore, try for a more elegant, discreetly oaked style, while others go for a full-bodied, oxidative style with a nutty, honeyed character. Lately, some are also experimenting with vessels such as concrete eggs and clay amphoras for fermentation and maturation, presenting new interpretations of the variety. Late releases: This new trend on the island sees producers bringing wines with considerable bottle ageing (up to two years) to market. This serves a dual purpose; increasing the perceived value and giving the wine a chance to shine and reveal its true colors and personality. Vinsanto: “Vin of Santorini” is not to be confused with Vin Santo from Tuscany, which is made from entirely different varieties using other methods. Vinsanto is the island’s sweet wine; it’s produced from sun-dried grapes, mainly Assyrtiko and Aidani (by law, the wine must be made using a minimum of 51% Assyrtiko). This naturally sweet wine undergoes an oxidative ageing process and matures in old oak for years, or even decades. Vinsantos are lusciously sweet, complex elixirs; they are among the best sweet wines of the world, almost literally immortal, with an ageing potential of centuries.

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The vines are trained into a basket shape, or kouloura, in order to protect the grapes from the island’s challenging weather conditions.

the island, future tastings of old vintages may show even better results.

THE OTHER VARIETIES White varieties hold sway in the vineyards of Santorini. Assyrtiko covers approximately 75% of the total 1100 hectares that are planted with grape vines on the island. The Aidani comes second, and usually plays the role of blending partner for Assyrtiko. There has been, however, lately a trend towards bottling 100% Aidani, as a more aromatic wine alternative. Varietal Aidanis display a lovely floral and herbal complexity, without losing Santorini’s mineral footprint, although the exact wine style varies among producers. As for the red varieties, Mavrotragano, an indigenous variety of Santorini, is on the rise. In the late ‘90s, producers such as Sigalas and Hatzidakis brought it back from near extinction, and this exotic grape nowadays accounts for about 2% of the Santorini plantings. It’s high tannin load means that this variety needs special care regarding cultivation and vinification. Mavrotragano wines reveal a nose full of black fruits, lavender and herbs, supplemented by firm tannins and a mineral-rich palate. Other varieties worth mentioning are the red Mandilaria, a capricious variety producing full-throttled tannic wines that demand extended bottle ageing, and what locals call the “Xenoloo” varieties: Gaidouria, Katsano and Voudomato. Most of them find their way in blends, although a few varietals do exist. 124

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HOW SANTORINI AGES Everyone talks about the stunning personality of the wines of Santorini, with their benchmark saltiness and uncompromising combination of high acidity and alcohol. They also praise the long ageing potential of these wines; however, old vintages are a very rare find, as producers have started holding back vintages recently. A blind tasting I performed a few months ago for karakasis.mw revealed some interesting finds regarding the ageing potential of the wines. Santorini wine can certainly age, though it can be inconsistent, and bottle variation can be an issue. Screw cap closures seem to be a way forward. The best examples show no sign of fatigue; they exhibit pale colors and an amazing nutty, toasty character like that of a Hunter Valley Semillon. At present, it seems 5-8 years is a safe drinking window for these wines, but I’m sure that, with the progress already seen on

IN A GLOBAL CONTEXT Santorini is the driving force of the Greek wine industry in the demanding export markets. Assyrtiko’s virtues have been lauded by wine professionals around the world, and it’s the first Greek grape variety to be planted in other countries, including Australia, South Africa, Italy and Lebanon, by quality-minded wine producers. From a global perspective, Santorini has really raised the image of Greek wine, gaining respect and acclaim. An important concern, however, is the price of Santorini’s wines or, more specifically, the rate of price increases for the last few vintages. Santorini prices are now firmly in the fine wine category, comparable to Burgundy whites (entry-level wines are at Bourgogne Blanc prices, and the higher cuvées are matching many Village and 1er Crus), serious German Rieslings and other top whites around the world. Of course, the economic realities of the island mean that wine production was unsustainable at the previously low prices, but the speed of the price rise is something that worries the wine industry. The best examples of Santorini wines are, without a doubt, premium wines that deserve to be taken seriously on the international stage, but there is a danger that prices are moving faster than the reputation is being built, and that will make it difficult to sell the wines in competitive export markets, if the situation

ASSYRTIKO’S VIRTUES HAVE BEEN LAUDED BY WINE PROFESSIONALS AROUND THE WORLD, AND IT’S THE FIRST GREEK GRAPE VARIETY TO BE PLANTED IN OTHER COUNTRIES.

A taste of heaven

High quality wines from local Santorinian grape varieties, patiently aged to perfection

anava Roussos, the oldest winery on Santorini, was founded in 1836 to produce high quality aged wines uniquely expressing the characters of the numerous varieties of Thiran grapes. Today, Canava Roussos’ 6th generation, faithfully adhering to the island’s traditions, values modern technology and aims at creating wines with individual tastes and bouquets, selecting fruit of the highest quality from the island’s select varieties: Asyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani, Mandilaria, Mavrathiro. As has happened for the last thirty years during the summer season (April - October), the Roussos family and team daily receive visitors at the traditional Canava Roussos Winery

@ Episkopi - Mesa Gonia, Santorini, guiding them around the installations and the unique traditional f lavours of Theran earth. Arrange a guided tour, a taste of the Theran f lavours and wine samplings among the several different wine products. CANAVA ROUSSOS will prove a challenge to wine buffs on their enjoyable stroll among the barrels. This summer too, CANAVA ROUSSOS will satisfy your gastronomic needs and provide a much needed genuinely local venue to travel back in time and tastes, with a menu of our own customary dishes, authentically prepared to long standing Santorini recipes with purest local produce, set to satisfy the most demanding guest.

www.canavaroussos.gr - e-mail: marketing@canavaroussos.gr headquarters: episkopi – mesa gonia, 847 00 santorini - tel.: 22860 31349, 22860 31278

WINE

Vinsanto wine turns a darker brown as it ages.

On the veranda of the Venetsanos Winery, wine-tasting sessions include a stunning caldera view.

continues. Of course, Santorini always has the advantage of its status as a global tourism destination, but there’s still work to do – both in terms of communicating the message of the island’s unique terroir and in raising the quality of the wines.

been successful, which is remarkable, and the current limitations to that success. Perhaps soon, Santorini‘s best will join those elite wines seen as investment opportunities or collectors’ items. At the moment, they’re still flying under the radar. Still, prices are rising every year, with increases in domestic market prices of up to 80% over the last five years. This is mainly attributable to the increase in the price of the grapes from €0.85/kg in 2010 to €5/kg in 2018, but it’s also tied to the rise in the number of producers on the island, from 13 in 2010 to more than 20 in 2018. Bearing this in mind, buying a mixed case or two of Santorini wines for cellaring might end up as a very wise move. It will certainly pay back in terms of enjoyment. Nowadays, more and more

INVESTING IN SANTORINI It’s really exciting to hear the positive buzz being made about the magnificent wines of Santorini. These wines truly deserve their place among the finest white wines in the world. However, according to respected wine journalist Eric Asimov, “Most people, including many who consider themselves wine lovers, still regard Assyrtiko as something exotic, perhaps even alien.” This statement highlights both the extent to which the variety has

VINO DI SANTORINI Vinsanto is the traditional dessert wine of Santorini (Vino di Santorini), produced from sun-dried grapes, the majority of which must be Assyrtiko. It acquires a minimum final alcohol of 9%. The sun-drying process is an ancient, ultra-traditional technique, first reported by Hesiod, which dehydrates the berries while increasing total acidity (high to begin with, thanks to the dominant presence of Assyrtiko) along with the sugars. This means that, while Vinsanto is extremely sweet (residual sugar levels can reach more than 300 g/lt), it’s never cloying, because of that prominent acidity. The production method is laborious, and yields are so restricted it’s entirely possible that one plant might produce only a single bottle of Vinsanto. The wines develop a complex aromatic flavor profile, with aromas ranging from dried fruits like raisins and figs to roasted nuts, walnuts, chocolate, coffee and caramel.

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producers are releasing special bottlings in such small quantities, they don’t find their way onto many shelves. Stay alert and seek them out!

FOOD PAIRINGS With a vast array of styles and varieties available, the wines from Santorini can be seen as perfect partners for a wide variety of dishes. • Aidani, with its broad aromatic character and balanced freshness, can be a delicious match with seafood, stir-fried vegetables and pasta dishes. • Assyrtiko, fermented in stainless steel to further accent its mouthwatering minerality, will pair wonderfully with raw shellfish, sea urchins and lemony-sharp fish tartare dishes. You can also opt for fried fish, or any food on which you would squeeze lemon in order to enjoy. • For an oaky, full-bodied, creamy version of Assyrtiko, look for a prime grilled fish or a white meat dish such as lamb fricassée. Creamy dishes based on other white meat, including chicken or pork, will also work perfectly. • With its great complexity, weight and density, Nychteri pairs with roasted lamb with yogurt and herbs, or even, in the case of nuttier, more fully developed styles, with a truffle risotto. It also goes with mature yellow cheeses with lots of texture. • For a red Mavrotragano, stay in classic mode and go for a grilled prime cut or meat casseroles. • For the ultimate Vinsanto pairing, go beyond chocolate and boost your enjoyment with either a savoury cheese (such as Roquefort) or some prosciutto or pata negra. Don’t forget, however, that it’s always about the moment; the people you are with and the environment you are in will help you get the most out of these excellent pairings.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Yiannis Karakasis is one of the 355 Masters of Wine in the world. He consults, writes and teaches about wine, and is the founder of the karakasis.mw blog and the author of the ebook “The Vineyards and Wines of Greece 2017.”

Â© PERIKLES MERAKOS

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WINERIES

A WALK ON THE WINE SIDE

A visit to the guardians of the island’s great oenological legacy offers rewards all its own. BY NENA DIM ITR IOU

A thin dust covers the soft ground under the verdant green vines. All around, there is the blackness of the volcanic terrain and the deep blue of the sea. What other vineyard in the world can boast such a setting? The grapes grow nestled inside basket-like vine structures lying on the ground (part of a unique cultivation technique) in fields abutting the main roads. In this Tuscany of the Aegean, a vast wine culture awaits you. Some of the most important Greek wines are produced by the vineyards of Santorini, which today cover more than 1500 hectares across an island where grapes have been grown for more than 3000 years. In more recent history, it may have taken a little more than three decades to recognize the potential of Assyrtiko, the predominant variety in Santorini, but no one doubts its absolute rule anymore. Some 20 wineries are in operation at present and nearly all of them welcome visitors. Inside centuries-old underground wine cellars or in ultramodern wineries dug out of the volcanic rock and facing the open sea, you’ll discover that, from a single grape, one can produce wine in almost infinite variations as you try the best vintages of Assyrtiko, the special character of Nychteri and the sun-dried, deliciously sweet Vinsanto. The unique features of lesser-known varieties, including the whites Athiri and Aidani and the reds Mavrotragano and Mandilaria, are also appealing.

INFO

For organized wine tours, contact one of the travel agencies that operate on the island: • SANTORINI WINE TRAILS: Emporio • Tel. (+30) 22860.831.03 • santoriniwinetrails. gr. Tours may last up to five hours. €120 per person for groups of up to six, but options are also available for individual visitors. Languages: English, French. • SANTORINI WINE ADVENTURE: Messaria • Tel. (+30) 22860.341.23 • winetoursantorini. com. Tours include up to three wineries. €120 per person, in groups of up to eight. Individual packages available. Language: English. • SANTORINI WINE TOUR: Messaria • Tel. (+30) 22860.283.58 • santoriniwinetour. com. Tours may last up to five hours. €145 per person in groups of up to 10, but options are also available for individual visitors. Language: English. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

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AT THE SOURCE A mini-guide for those who’d rather explore Santorini’s wine scene on their own.

ESTATE ARGYROS

ART SPACE

To admire this established estate’s brand-new, ultramodern winery in the heart of its privately owned vineyard, all reminiscent of Napa Valley.

To learn about the history of winemaking as recounted by an enchanting storyteller, and to admire works created by talented artists.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The PDO Santorini Vareli, the Aidani and the 20-yearold Vinsanto, as well as the signature Vinsanto-infused chocolate treat that accompanies it.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The Vinsanto, the Nychteri and the Aghios Avgoustos white. Exo Gonia • Tel. (+30) 22860.327.74 • artspace-santorini.com

ARTEMIS KARAMOLEGOS WINERY WHY SHOULD I GO?

To experience a Vinsanto that has been aged for 60 months prior to being bottled. WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The PDO Santorini “Pyritis” and “Mystirio/14.” Exo Gonia Tel. (+30) 22860.333.95 • artemiskaramolegos-winery. com •

Episkopi Gonia Tel. (+30) 22860.314.89 • estate-argyros.com •

HATZIDAKIS WINERY WHY SHOULD I GO?

To see a winery literally built into the rock, which belonged to the late Haridimos Hatzidakis, among the most important Greek producers of recent times. His family now runs the winery. Today, the bottled wines that he created are sought after by collectors. WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The Louros and the Skytali 2017. Pyrgos Kallistis • Tel. (+30) 697.001.3556 • hatzidakiswines.gr

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KOUTSOGIANNOPOULOS WINE MUSEUM

VOLCANIC SLOPES VINEYARDS

To take a wonderful tour (available in 14 languages) of an underground wine museum.

For a unique experience in a boutique winery of industrial design, which produces only one wine label, Pure, from 100% Assyrtiko grapes from their privately owned vineyards.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

Their limited production, which is only available there. Vothonas • Tel. (+30) 22860.313.22 • santoriniwinemuseum.com

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

Pure’s four vintages, ranging from 2013 to 2016, giving one the chance to taste the wine’s flavor development through the years. Visits available upon request. Episkopi Gonia • Tel. (+30) 22860.313.68 • vsvwinery.com

CANAVA ROUSSOS WHY SHOULD I GO?

To see the oldest canava on the island, a winery whose traditions and appearance have been preserved by each of the five generations of family that have run it. A tour here is tantamount to traveling through time! WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The aged Nychteri and the Mavrathiro. Episkopi Gonia • Tel. (+30) 22860.313.49 • canavaroussos.gr

AVANTIS CELLAR DOORS

BOUTARI WINERY

GAIA WINES

GAVALAS WINERY

To get a look at a modern space dedicated to wine that also happens to include a spa and a restaurant, as well as cellar and lounge areas where you can relax with a glass in hand.

To meet the fourth generation of a family that laid the foundations of modern Greek winemaking. Boutari has wineries in various areas, so a wine tasting here allows you to compare Assyrtiko to other Greek varieties.

To visit the “native land” of Thalassitis, a singular local wine that has won over many oenophiles around the world, as well as to do some wine tasting next to the island’s Mavri Paralia (Black Beach).

To taste rare varieties that this family is preserving and protecting through cultivation.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The “Delfinia” and the “Afoura,” both PDO Santorini. Kontochori, Fira • Tel. (+30) 22860.231.40 • avantissantorini.com

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The PDO Kallisti Reserve – the first bottled dry white Santorini wine aged in barrels.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The PDO Thalassitis.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The PDO Santorini Natural Ferment, the Katsano and the Xenoloo. Megalochori • Tel. (+30) 22860.825.52

Exo Gonia • Tel. (+30) 22860.341.86 • gaiawines.gr

Megalochori • Tel. (+30) 22860.810.11 • boutariwinerysantorini.gr

SANTO WINES

DOMAINE SIGALAS

VASSALTIS VINEYARDS

VENETSANOS WINERY

To enjoy traditional dishes, to indulge in wine tasting while gazing at the caldera, and to pick up some local products, conveniently packaged, all within an impressive facility dedicated to the island’s unique gastronomic heritage.

To meet Paris Sigalas, one of the most innovative Greek winemakers, who continues to experiment with Santorini varieties. In addition, to dine in the winery’s wonderful restaurant, which features scrumptious local products prepared with creative flair.

To get a feel for what the new wave of island winemakers is up to, at a modern winery built in harmony with its natural surroundings.

To get a closer look at the first winery to export Santorinian wine, considered a milestone in the island’s winemaking history. Its location, on the less photographed side of the island, is also exceptional.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The PDO Santorini, the sparkling wines and their new label IRINI, from 100% Assyrtiko, aged in Vinsanto barrels, as well as the local cooperative’s top delicacy – Santorini cherry tomato paste with honey and mastic.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The Kavalieros, the Nychteri made from the Aidani variety and the famous Mavrotragano. Baxes, Oia • Tel. (+30) 22860.716.44 • sigalas-wine.gr

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The PDO Santorini, the Nassitis and the new premium labels Plethora and Gramina in unexpected pairings with ceviche, tiraditos or tartare of Greek fish. Vourvoulos • Tel. (+30) 22860.222.11 • vassaltis.com

WHY SHOULD I GO?

WHAT SHOULD I TRY?

The Nychteri, the Mandilaria and the Anagallis rosé. Caldera Megalochori • Tel. (+30) 22860.211.00 • venetsanoswinery.com

Pyrgos • Tel. (+30) 22860.225.96 • santowines.gr

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MIRACLES FOR THE MOUTH

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Santorini is a showcase for Greece’s high-end culinary scene; it’s where up-and-coming chefs and those at the top of their profession are creating dishes so amazing, they rival Santorini’s stunning views. BY N E NA DI M I T R IOU / P HOTOS PE R I K L E S M E R A KOS

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ALIOS ILIOS

BOTARGO

ALALI

LA MAISON

ALALI In a particularly romantic setting beside the pool of Astarte Suites, one with a view over Oia that’s absolutely stunning at night when the village is in its nocturnal finery, renowned chef Adam Kontovas presents creative Mediterranean dishes made using famous Greek products such as avgotaracho (bottarga), Kozani saffron, yellow split peas and fresh chloro cheese. The chef ’s special skills are evident in his unique and elegant combinations that add a special note to every meal. The cod with celery root, wild greens and sea urchin, or the lamb fricassée with sea lettuce and samphire, are the kinds of profoundly flavorful dishes that will leave you wanting to come back. • •

Astarte Suites • Akrotiri Tel. (+30) 22860.833.88

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ALIOS ILIOS Santorini and Crete’s shared culinary ancestry is the focus of the menu at the Santo Maris restaurant, a radiant space done in white, with wicker chairs and discreet gold details. The food here is traditional Greek, with a Cretan emphasis because this is where the hotel’s owners come from. Young chef Vassilis Katsikas proves just how elegant everyday comfort food can be, presenting elevated versions of classics like grouper “giouvarlakia,” balls of fish cooked in a sauce of fish broth, shrimps and saffron. His pasticchio is a sheet of pasta with small morsels of meat hidden inside, and he turns the classic moussaka into croquettes. The desserts are things of beauty; the baklava is made with pistachio paste, there’s a pear and thyme sorbet, and a chocolate caramel cream steals the show.

The cocktails are equally creative, while the wine list of Cretan and other Greek labels presents carefully selected pairings. •

Santo Maris • Oia • Tel. (+30) 22860.710.00

BOTARGO Follow the signposts and head uphill through Pyrgos’ maze of lanes and alleys to Botargo, at the top of the village, where you’re welcomed by the fragrant aroma of Mediterranean herbs at the entrance. Once the home of a local noblewoman called Margarita, the building dates to 1872, as does the fresco on the ceiling of what is now the bar. Jazz music accompanies your meal, which comes with a lovely view of Santorini’s less-photographed and greener side. The chef has created an a la carte menu where each dish is served with a different type of olive oil, in a bid to

OVAC

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SELENE

acquaint diners with a range of different varieties. By adding raw olive oil to his food, he succeeds in bringing out the organoleptic characteristics, like its bitter or fruity notes, that are lost when the oil is cooked. Both the bar and the kitchen open early in the day, serving brunch and lunch, together with classic cocktails and signature concoctions made with Greek spirits. •

Pyrgos Kallistis • Tel. (+30) 22860.300.70

ELEMENTS The natural materials and earthy colors that predominate at the Epitome hotel help guests feel comfortable and relaxed. Its restaurant, Elements, strives for the same atmosphere. It may also be the best spot on the island from which to watch the famed Oia sunset, far from the madding crowd. Choose a recliner or one of the low tables set around the pool, and sip on a cocktail as you say goodbye to the day. The bar, a central feature in the space, is the perfect place to start your evening. Kick off with one of its signature cocktails, like the Asia Crusta, made with whiskey and citrus fruits. Then move on to one of the wildly imaginative and exciting dishes created by 136

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Canaves Oia Resort Executive Chef Tasos Stefatos, who cooks international cuisine with Greek elements, all while keeping it fun and packed with flavor. Every table is supplied with fresh bread (made with eggplant leavening) and butter subtly flavored with onion. The Flying Burger is a sandwich of quail, red fruit chutney, goat’s cheese and amazing chips, while Figaro’s Wedding is a multifaceted dish with rice, spices and lobster mousse in a crunchy baguette shaped like a lobster claw. The wine list stars Santorinian selections with a few well-chosen domestic and international wines. Consider accompanying your meal with one of the lighter cocktails on the drinks list or to ask for pairing tips. • •

Canaves Oia Epitome • Oia Tel (+30) 22860.714.53

LA MAISON Located beside Imerovigli’s Venetian tower, this restaurant has a rooftop dining area painted in warm colors, with plants and decorative details that give it an exotic feel. It’s also got views out over the volcano and Akrotiri to the south. In addition to its amazing location, the restaurant offers

an easy-going yet lively atmosphere and nice music. In terms of the food, Dimos Samourakis and Vasilis Sdrougias have created a menu of creative international cuisine, with lots of Greek, Japanese and French ingredients and techniques. From the appetizers, we recommend the gazpacho (with basil ice cream, crunchy carob-flour bread and bonito flakes), which will cool you down and sharpen your appetite. From the entrees, the orange duck with miso, potato gnocchi, leeks and a broth made from the duck’s juices showcases the chefs’ knack for introducing a successful twist to a classic. There’s a six-course tasting menu that can include wine pairing as well. Santorini and other parts of Greece star on the wine list. •

Imerovigli • Tel. (+30) 22860.256.49

NAOS In an old mansion that has been given a luxurious makeover – including marble floors, an ornate ceiling and chandeliers – Naos gives all its guests a warm welcome. Start at the bar with a fusion cocktail like the Hokkaido Martini, made with gin and sake, or order your aperitif in the dining area on the rooftop so you can enjoy the sunset

GASTRONOMY

PETRA

over Imerovigli and Firostefani, with views all the way to Akrotiri. Chef Spyros Agious presents a menu where the ingredients are the stars: mollusks, sea urchins and king crab prepared in all sorts of wonderful and creative ways. The black tagliolini with activated carbon, seaweed and rock samphire is a marvelous dish and perhaps one of the best on offer in Oia this year. •

Oia • Tel (+30) 22860.724.13

OVAC The younger sibling of the renowned Mykonos restaurant, this establishment at Cavo Tagoo is a must for all luxury-seeking travelers to the island. Ovac is designed in inky tones to make it look like the inside of a volcano, though the sun provides plenty of natural light during the day. From its outside dining area, you’ll enjoy a view of Thirasia and, to the west, of Oia, while the food by chef Polychronis Damalas is a fine-dining fusion of Asian and Mediterranean cuisines. The tuna, for example, is served with Cretan spiny chicory, chili and garlic, while the fresh bass carpaccio is combined with sea urchin and passion fruit. The more gastro-casual lunch menu comprises a lot of fish and

NAOS

sophisticated sushi rolls. We recommend accompanying your meal with a cocktail or wrapping it up with a cocktail dessert, such as the Crema Catalana, made with vanilla vodka, orange liqueur and fresh cream. Cavo Tagoo • Imerovigli • Tel. (+30) 22860.289.00 •

PETRA The award-winning Canaves Oia Resort offers an amazing gastronomic experience. The stylish restaurant Petra, located in the Canaves Suites pool area, looks straight out at Thirasia and over the small harbor of Armeni. Chef Vasilis Roussos, in cooperation with Canaves Resort’s executive chef,Tasos Stefatos, draws inspiration from the cuisine of the Greek islands to put forward elevated and sophisticated variations of traditional classics, such as the Hania meat pie, made with creamy Cretan cheese, or the Corfiot pastitsada, made with rabbit and a signature mixture of 14 spices. The wine list features 60 selections from Santorini, the rest of Greece and a few international wineries. Their signature cocktails are also an excellent food-pairing option. Don’t pass up the

chance to be seated at the Panorama table – if it’s available. • Canaves Oia • Tel. (+30) 22860.714.53

SELENE Fava “Seabed,” Santorinian Tomato “Can” and “Black” Aegean Codfish: nothing is what is seems on the menu at Selene. The first gourmet restaurant on Santorini and, possibly, in all of the Cyclades, holds a distinct place at the forefront of Greek gastronomy. Its elegant dining room serves food poetry on a plate, dishes of such refined taste they have made Santorini a gourmet destination. Under the direction of owner Yiorgos Hatziyannakis and overseen by manager and sommelier Georgia Tsara, Selene has been serving dishes created with ingredients that sing of Santorini. This year, thanks to the imaginative chef Thodoris Papanikolaou, the plating is even more artistic than usual. The names of the dishes are not literal descriptions; they’re creative interpretations. The wine list is pure gold, consisting of 300 new and vintage Greek selections. • Pyrgos Kallistis • Tel (+30) 22860.222.49 S A N TO R I N I 2 019

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E AT I N G O U T

There are places on Santorini where you can find good, simple food that doesn’t cost a fortune. Those listed here have been recommended by visitors and locals alike as great “value for money” eateries. BY NENA DIM ITR IOU

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THE VFM FACTOR

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TA DICHTIA

BRUSCO Friendly, relaxed and strategically placed near a popular intersection in Pyrgos, this is where locals come on their lunch breaks for a quick bite, or in the afternoon for a beer or raki to whet their pre-dinner appetite. It opens early for breakfast (which is worth trying if you are staying nearby) and goes on to serve hearty sandwiches and salads, and platters of cheeses and cold meats. Order the grilled talagani cheese (from the Peloponnese) served with very well-suited fig marmalade. You’ll also find anthotyro cheese, tomato and pesto mini-pies, and small rusks with a split-pea fava spread, among other Santorinian tidbits. There aren’t a lot of options for wine by the glass, but it does serve the local Donkey beer, which is as bright and light as the food and the mood. • •

Approx. €18/person • Pyrgos Square Tel. (+30) 22860.309.44

FINO This small yet attractive bar-restaurant is located right above the square in Oia where the regional buses stop. It has a pretty garden where bright bougainvillea, colorful tiles and smiling waitstaff set the tone for a pleasant evening. Your waiter will probably recommend that you start with a cocktail. The Snappy Tea, with vodka, passion fruit, 140

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five spice and Tabasco, is the perfect match for the sea bass ceviche with coriander and lime, or the grilled squid with tarama (roe) paste, lettuce and ponzu – two menu standouts. Leave room for dessert. • •

Approx. €25-30/person • Oia Tel. (+30) 22860.720.37

KRINAKI Leave your car in the small parking lot at the entrance of the village and walk the 80 short meters to the door of this spot. The dining area is on a rooftop and looks out over the village of Finikia, taking in the Aghia Matrona bell tower and the vineyards of Baxedes. This is a typical Greek taverna, serving salads of seasonal vegetables or greens, pulses (they slow-cook the chickpeas in an earthenware pot), roasted feta, grilled meat dishes and small fried fish. If the grilled thrapsalo, or flying squid, is on the menu, it’s definitely worth a try. The tomato-braised beef and the lamb cooked in a clay pot are also musts. They serve only bottled wine. • •

Approx. €18-20/person • Finikia Tel. (+30) 22860.719.93

METAXI MAS More and more visitors squeeze onto the veranda every year, enjoying meals alongside the locals, who aren’t about to give up one

of their favorite tavernas. Tucked away behind a church on the main street of Exo Gonia, Metaxi Mas boasts a lovely view over Santorini’s interior and a menu that blends Mediterranean, Greek and Cretan classics. You’ll find Greek staples such as fava dip and dakos salad, made with rye rusks and tomatoes, as well as risotto and meat options. Reservations are essential. • •

Approx. €18/person • Exo Gonia Tel. (+30) 22860.313.23

PELICAN KIPOS The garden of this all-day restaurant, which is ideal for breakfast or a cool afternoon break, stretches out over a large property filled with flower pots, climbing plants and a variety of trees, including a pair of 60-year-old palms. It is quite the jungle inside the town of Fira, and yet this is not Pelican Kipos’ most impressive feature. For that, you have to go underground, where a network of caverns extends to a depth of ten meters. These spaces make up the restaurant’s legendary wine cellar, which contains over 600 selections from around the world, including, of course, notable wines from Santorini and the rest of Greece. There’s also a specially designed winetasting space, as well as an ageing room where local wines are matured in the bottle. Spirit enthusiasts will have a good time as

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well, with selections of whisky and other drinks from all over the world.

parts of the country, with an emphasis on whites.

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Approx. €30/person • Fira Tel (+30) 22860.234.33

PSARAKI The owners of this eatery get their fish from local fishermen at the port of Vlychada and prepare traditional recipes such as red mullet with savoro sauce (garlic, vinegar and rosemary). You’ll also find a mixed steamed shellfish platter, and ceviche made from the day’s catch. The orzo with clams, langoustine and mussels is also very good. The wine is mainly white and rosé, and all Santorinian. If you like to concentrate on your food, we recommend a table in the quiet garden. If you prefer a view, choose the veranda, which overlooks the harbor. • •

Approx. €35/person • Vlychada Tel. (+30) 22860.827.83

SALTYBONE A glass of chilled wine and a few plates of modern meze are the right way to end a day at Vlychada Beach. In a courtyard directly across from the Santorini Arts Factory, SaltyBone serves cool quirky food with an international twist, such as the anchovy filets marinated with black garlic, the eel with angel’s hair pasta, the tuna tacos and other colorful creations. The wine list comprises around two dozen selections from different 142

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Approx. €25/person • Vlychada Tel. (+30) 694.848.277

SELENE MEZE AND WINE A new chef, full of energy and fresh ideas, has taken over this year, presenting dishes that are technically sophisticated and imaginative. The menu experiments with the concept of meze, while throwing in a few Mediterranean and Greek classics, too. The most-photographed dish here is the “stuffed vegetable risotto,” a rich, fragrant rice dish with a topping made from tomatoes, green and yellow peppers, and feta, too. Other highlights include the fava with squid ink and lemon, served with grilled squid, and the pancetta with a pork juice sauce served with sautéed leeks and celery. They make two types of bread here every day and serve 27 wines from different parts of Greece by the glass and 18 Santorini wines by the bottle. Coupled with great service, all this makes Selene’s more relaxed offshoot a haven of simple, delicious food. • •

Approx. €25-30/person • Pyrgos Tel (+30) 22860.243.95

TA DICHTIA The owner is a skilled fisherman, an excellent cook and a master of the grill,

so it’s no surprise that fish (either grilled over charcoal or cooked in its own juices) dominates a menu that also includes a few appetizers and salads. Availability and prices depend on what’s been caught in the net. There are also plenty of well-priced options from local wineries. From €25-30 to €50/person depending on the type of fish • Perivolos • Tel. (+30) 22860.828.18 •

VINEYART If a crash course in authentic Greek cuisine is what you’re after, then this is where you should go. The pretty courtyard, decorated in relaxing terracotta tones, is quiet most hours of the day. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and a good book in the afternoon hours. You’ll find local delicacies prepared according to traditional methods. Ideal meze dishes to accompany spirits and wine include salt-cured sardines, Santorinian fresh cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. In all their dishes, the young owners showcase seasonal local products. When it comes to wine, the focus is also on Santorini, and this is one of only a few places on the island where you can find all the wines produced here. Noteworthy vintages are preserved and matured in bottles in the cellar. • •

From €15-20/person • Oia Tel (+30) 22860.720.46

TA POSTALIA TOU AIGAIOU At Captain Michalis Damigos’ establishment, the décor is so profoundly maritime – all wooden rudders and knotted ropes – it’s surprising that Ta Postalia tou Aigaiou hasn’t sailed away yet. Michalis and his wife do the cooking, and the kitchen turns out very nice Greek meze dishes such as eggplant purée, a spicy Mykonian cheese dip, skipjack filets, and mini cheese pies. All are usually served with a small carafe of ouzo or tsipouro. They are particularly proud of their roasted liver and their buttery smoked mackerel. Groups meet up here, often on Saturdays, for sing-alongs, so you might get a show with your meal.

PENTOZALI Two friends from Crete opened this eatery near the school in Messaria. In the summer, most everyone sits outside, in the shade of the eucalyptus trees. This relaxed setting is perfect for a simple meze menu that includes potato salad, cheese served with thyme, feta with olive oil and oregano, Cretan rye rusks, omelet with cured syglino and apaki pork loin. The drinks are raki, wine from the barrel, ouzo and four different beers, two of which are from the local brewery. If you enter from the side door, you’ll find a small retail area where the owners sell local products such as dried herbs, wine and rusks. • Approx. €12-15/person • Messaria

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NOT SO FORMAL

Join the locals at perfect places for ouzo and meze.

The food is meze, dishes that can be prepared in minutes in a frying pan or served as is. In years gone by, the dishes would depend on what the owner’s wife had prepared for her family, as she’d simply set aside a few portions for customers. The most common meze nowadays, however, are items like salted fish, pickled vegetables, vinegary sausages, mature cheeses, olives and perhaps a few small fried fish if the establishment happens to be on an island or close to the sea. Everything comes to the table in small servings on small dishes. Their strong flavors make them ideal partners for equally strong spirits like tsipouro and raki, or with anise-scented ouzo. Here are two eateries on Santorini that do the great meze tradition proud.

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Approx. €15/person • Messaria Tel. (+30) 22860.342.34

Tel. (+30) 22860.373.83

THE THEROS WAVE BAR EXPERIENCE JUST 15 MINUTES AWAY from Fira, in a landscape of lunar beauty, with the commanding volcanic rocks at the background, on Eros beach of beautiful Vlyhada, Theros Wave Bar emerges as a jewel and will surely become your favorite destination for every moment of the day. Get a holistic massage, go canoeing, or just enjoy your sun bed and the excellent beach service. Its menu includes fine flavors of the Mediterranean, signature cocktails and a selected list of local and foreign wines. It has been voted as one of the best beach bars in the Mediterranean! Eros Beach, Vlyhada Open 10:00-21:00 | (+30)2286 11 2015 | info@theroswavebar.gr

Santorini

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LIGHT AND PAINT The beauty of Santorini is captured in 180 works from the extensive collection of Dimitris Tsitouras, on exhibit this autumn at the Pireos Street Annex of the Benaki Museum. BY TA S SOU L A E P TA K I L I

n the 1950s, in Athens, young Dimitris Tsitouras was told by his well-traveled and cosmopolitan French teacher that she had never seen a place as enchanting as Santorini. In 1968, when he was a student at the University of Zurich Faculty of Law, a Swiss friend bought a small house on the island and urged him to spend a few days of his summer vacation there. “It was love at first sight. I immediately became part of the life of Santorini, and it became part of mine,” says Tsitouras. An eminent lawyer, enterprising businessman, Officer of the National Order of Merit of the French Republic, honorary consul of France in Santorini, art collector, founder of the Archive of Santorinian Studies, member of several scientific organizations, tireless organizer of exhibitions in Greece and abroad – Tsitouras is certainly a multifaceted individual. But one aspect of his life encompasses all the rest: at heart, he is a lover of beauty in all its manifestations. It is to the beauty of Santorini, which has never ceased to move him even all these decades later, that the exhibition titled “The landscape of Santorini in Greek 20th century painting” is dedicated; it will be held at the Benaki Museum, Pireos Street Annex, in Athens, from September 30 to November 3 and will feature approx-

YIANNIS MITARAKIS “Santorini,” 65x81cm, oil on canvas.

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NIKOS ENGONOPOULOS “Arch in Fira,” 19x13cm, oil on canvas.

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PARIS PREKAS “The view from Monasteri Profitis Ilias,” 54x80cm, watercolor (1983).

LYKOURGOS KOGEVINAS “Firostefani, Imerovigli,” 44x26cm, oil on cardboard.

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DESPINA MEIMAROGLOU “The sea of Santorini,” 89x45cm, hand printed lino-cut (1982).

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PAVLOS SAMIOS “Fira,” 40x100cm, acrylic on canvas.

CHRISTOFOROS ASIMIS “The house of Tsitouras in Santorini,” 50.5x140cm, acrylic on canvas.

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NIKOS HADJIKYRIAKOS-GHIKA “Santorini sketch,” 52x37cm, with pen and colored pencil (1962).

Dimitris Tsitouras.

imately 180 works by some of the most important Greek painters: from Yiannis Moralis, Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, Spyros Vasiliou and Nikos Engonopoulos to Opy Zouni, Yannis Gaïtis, Costas Tsoclis, Alekos Fassianos, Valias Semertzides and Pavlos Samios. This isn’t the first time that Tsitouras has sought to present artists’ conceptions of Santorini. “In 1980, we showed the core of our collection at the French Institute on Sina Street, under the title ‘Santorini as seen by European travelers between the 15th and the 19th centuries’. The exhibition was a huge success, and was transferred to Santorini that summer, to the Gyzi Megaron, that wonderful 1780 building. That’s how the first small museum of the Tsitouras Collection was created, and the collection was housed there until the end of 1985,” he explains. “Later, I decided to create a collection of works by Greek painters who had captured the landscapes of the island. It began in 1982, with a 1936 watercolor by Yiannis Moralis, depicting the entrance of the Gyzi Megaron. Soon it was joined by two drawings, one by Nikos Hadjikyr-

ing bare the magnificence of the caldera. When asked which of all the works in the exhibition is his favorite, Tsitouras says: “You might be surprised by what I’m about to tell you. I think they’re all wonderful, but none of the artists has painted the island the way I see it. Most have focused on the black of the volcano; they were frightened by the wildness of the land, and that is what they captured in their works. My own Santorini is not so rough; it retains a tenderness, a sweetness.” The exhibition doesn’t include a single work by Yannis Tsarouchis, and that comes as a surprise to those who know of the deep friendship that connected the collector and the great Greek painter. The explanation of this, however, is simple: “Yannis Tsarouchis’ visit to Santorini was always being postponed,” Tsitouras notes. “At some point he told me: ‘The beauty of Santorini is vertical. I prefer it horizontal, like the beauty of Attica. But you should bring me a photograph of a local costume, and I will paint it for you.’ I never did, firstly because there is no local costume of Santorini but also, mainly, because it felt false.”

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iakos-Ghika and the other by Gerasimos Steres. The following year, Paris Prekas visited Santorini and gave me a large watercolor. Further additions that year included artworks by Despina Meimaroglou, Elli Solomonidou-Balanou, Yannis Gaïtis and Zoe Skiadaresi.” Much has come to pass since then, in the history of Greece, of Santorini, and of the collector himself. But the collection never stopped growing. “I’m very happy and proud of the fact that we managed not only to acquire some exceptional works, but also to encourage a number of very important artists to get to know the landscape of Santorini, draw inspiration from it, and render it through the prism of their perspective,” he tells me. The exhibition at the Benaki Museum will begin with the work “Santorini volcano eruption,” by Dimos Braessas (oil on cardboard, early 20th century) and include present-day representations such as the most recent work by Costas Tsoclis (acrylic on canvas, 2017). It will take viewers from the alleyways of Fira and Oia inland to the island’s charming interior and outward to its rugged coastline, lay-

TESTIMONY

FAMILY IDYLL Prolific American photographer William Abranowicz has been capturing the magic of Santorini on film for decades; his son, a creative force in his own right, describes their special connection to the island. BY Z A N DE R B. A BR A NOW ICZ / PHOTOS W I L L I A M A BR A NOW ICZ / A RT + C OM M E RCE

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The photographer’s children – from left to right, Zander (the author of this article), Simon and Max Abranowicz – in Oia in the 1990s, during one of the family’s annual holidays to Greece.

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A wall of portraits at the Naval Maritime Museum in Oia, Santorini.

n the home videos of my first trip to Santorini, I’m a naked baby bathed in late-day sun, grasping at the black sand of a secluded beach, or giddy as I’m buoyed on the generous bosom of a Greek woman in the kitchen of a taverna while she coos beneath a canopy of bare bulbs. It was September of 1992 when my parents carried me, a babe of five months, off a small Olympic Air plane onto the tarmac at the then dinky Santorini Airport, exposing my skin to the famed Mediterranean light for the first time. There to meet his godson was Kostis Psychas, owner of the Perivolas hotel and my father’s best friend. His beard was darker then, but his surfer’s sun-bleached hair and stunningly blue eyes have lost little of their luster today, twenty-six years later. My father first met Kostis in 1988, and over 154

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the years, on countless family trips and as a photographer for many magazines, he documented the stewardship Kostis and his sister Maria Irini exercised over Perivolas, whose traditional rock-hewn white houses first welcomed travelers in 1974. The Aegean Sea serves as the backdrop to my boyhood memories of our annual visits to Kostis and Santorini. We are skimming on the caldera past cliffs of pocked igneous rock on Kostis’ beloved Zodiac, the nimble, inflatable boat often associated with Navy SEALs. We laugh and scream each time our bottoms are lifted from the floor of the boat as Kostis – the epitome of a waterman, whose closest physical correlates would be surfer Laird Hamilton or Disney’s Poseidon – propels the vessel off the surf. My father photographs our summer entou-

rage, tanned and windswept. Reflected light from the sea dances on the magma, settled millions of years ago into the perforated inner walls of the caldera. We disembark at Armeni, a small fishing village at the bottom of the cliffs below Oia, accessible by sea or by a hidden donkey path, and order fresh fried eggs, calamari, and Epsa limonada sodas that come in glass bottles. Kostis, whom we call “The Mayor of Santorini,” makes the rounds among the locals. On the surrounding tabletops sit quintessential elements of a Greek still life – cigarettes, cell phones, worry beads, frappés, glasses of water. On our way back to the port of Amoudi, somewhere between Thirasia and Santorini – the largest landmasses that encircle the caldera, like cupped hands – Kostis cuts the engine and the boat slows to stillness. Thousands of feet below us

TESTIMONY

Kostis Psychas, owner of the Perivolas hotel as well as William’s close friend and Zander’s godfather, getting a trim at his home in Oia, Santorini.

runs a volcanic fracture, the speculative site of the lost city of Atlantis. Wordlessly, he dives in. I follow. Beneath the water, my eyes track prismatic beams of sunlight to their terminal points below my treading feet. The depths below me are immense – these are the coordinates where cruise ships make their turns to enter Santorini’s submerged crater on their way to the port. I’m swept with the nervous sensation of being exposed to whatever might emerge from those depths, and work to master my breathing. From the corner of my eye I see my godfather peacefully swimming well below me, occasionally pinching his nose to relieve pressure. My nerves give way to exhilaration and awe. Children under 16 aren’t allowed at Perivolas, so visits to the hotel required our best behavior so as not to

disturb the honeymooners relaxing at the edge of the famous infinity pool, or disrupt the reading and sunbathing of Greek celebrities on their balconies. My younger brother and sister and I would wade into the pool and paddle quietly around, lingering with our arms resting on the edge and peering down the cliffs below, where yellow-legged gulls and alpine swifts build gravity-defying nests amid the thorny scrub. Once or twice each trip, Kostis would invite me to swim at the hotel by myself. I had to creep down from our hotel adjacent to Perivolas so as not to arouse the jealousy of my younger siblings. I’d swim, drink chocolate milkshakes at the hotel bar with Kostis’ daughter, Sandrine, two years my senior, then wrap myself in Perivolas’s luxurious grey and white towels – the same towels I’ve worn to

BENEATH THE WATER, MY EYES TRACK PRISMATIC BEAMS OF SUNLIGHT TO THEIR TERMINAL POINTS BELOW MY TREADING FEET. THE DEPTHS BELOW ME ARE IMMENSE.

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Simon Abranowicz plunging into Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s submerged caldera from Perivolas Hideaway, the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s private residence on the island of Thirasia.

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Williamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic photograph of a cloud over the caldera was taken in Fira, Santorini in the 1990s. The austere site where he stood has since been turned into a lively cafĂŠ.

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Linens drying on the line in Santorini in the 1990s.

a thread after years of use back home. At eighteen, I found myself in Santorini without my family for the first time, a recent high school graduate disembarking a Hellenic Seaways ferry from Naxos with a half-way beard, a red bandana, a big hiker’s backpack, in the company of Conor, my oldest friend, from Bedford, New York. I spotted Kostis standing in front of his off-white, exquisitely gutted ’88 Range Rover, scanning the crowd, his azure eyes passing over me once, twice. It wasn’t until I was right in front of him that his eyes lit up –“You look just like you should!” he said, taking my backpack. Conor and I spent our days reading Henry Miller by the pool at Perivolas or cliff-jumping off the small island near Amoudi, reveling in our freedom and speculating on what college had in store for us. That summer, Kostis was busy with the construction of his new home in the 158

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foundation of a 19th-century gypsum factory across the caldera on Thirasia; it was a light-colored structure on the shore barely visible from Perivolas. Conor and I helped with the Sisyphean task of clearing rocks from the seawater pool, and swam around diving for sea urchin shells while Kostis led his team of laborers to create what was to become Perivolas Hideaway, a magnificent private house accessible only by helicopter or boat. On the Zodiac back to Santorini, Kostis, his expression visibly lighter when on the water, pointed the boat toward a cruise-liner’s wake. We momentarily left the water’s surface, like the dolphins or the flying fish depicted in late Minoan frescoes. My vision of Greece as an idyllic playground of family travel changed as photos of an Athens aflame began appearing on the front page of The New York

WE MOMENTARILY LEFT THE WATER’S SURFACE, LIKE THE DOLPHINS OR THE FLYING FISH DEPICTED IN LATE MINOAN FRESCOES.

TESTIMONY

The late Evgenios Spatharis was Greece’s foremost performer of Karagiozis plays, or shadow-puppet theater. His visit to Santorini in the 1990s was a momentous occasion for the island’s youth, including the Abranowicz kids and Kostis’s daughter, Sandrine, visible in the crowd.

Times from 2008 onward. These photographs deeply troubled me, far away at university in Ithaca, NY, and inspired my research into the modern history of a nation I felt somehow had become my own. Endowed with a generous grant to fund more than three months of field research, I let the rugged topography of the Greek spirit take form in my consciousness. I arrived at Santorini after months of traveling by foot, train, boat, and thumb, conducting interviews with activists, students, artists, journalists and politicians in Athens, farmers outside of Thessaloniki, survivors of the Axis occupation and Civil War in the borderlands of Epirus, and hermetic monks on the holy mountain of Athos. Seeing before him a scruffy nomadic scholar beginning to resemble the ascetic saints depicted in Greek orthodox iconography, with worn-out shoes and dog-eared books

by Patrick Leigh Fermor, Kostis gave me a crisp white Perivolas polo shirt, the kind worn by his staff, and a beautiful room at the hotel. Some of the faces and places associated with my youth – among them Pero, the toothless old man with a fisherman’s hat, rope belt, and stubble whom my father befriended as a young man, as well as the cantina where we would eat ham and cheese on toast after hikes up to a small white monastery – have disappeared. Behind me, too, are the trips from Athens to Santorini in the cockpit of miniscule Dornier 228 planes, arranged by Kostis’ brother Valodia, a man who’s as much a bird as Kostis is a fish. The drive in Kostis’ old Range Rover from the airport to Perivolas encountered more traffic than it ever had when I was young, with endless shabby hotels lining the route, and more under construction. Today, you’re more likely to find the road

blocked by confused tourists on rented ATVs than by a shepherd and his goats. (Amid the economic crisis, Santorini increased its quota on cruise-ship arrivals, resulting in an exponential increase in tourists disembarking on the relatively small island. Thankfully, this policy was reversed in 2017.) Santorini has taken form over two million years of successive volcanic eruptions, each depositing ash and magma and pumice into stratified layers of compressed earth. Small new islands such as Palea Kameni have appeared, and others have sunk back into the caldera. The homogenous infrastructure of modern tourism is simply the most recent residue of physical change on Santorini, unsightly as it is. The secluded wonder of the island hasn’t disappeared; out on the Aegean or within Perivolas’ sanctuary, my beloved secret remains preserved. S A N TO R I N I 2 019

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