GREECE IS | SANTORINI | 2017 by GREECE IS

greece is experience culture, gastronomy & more

SAN TO RI N I

FIRST EDITION

ISSN: 2529-041X

2017-2018 ISSUE

12 - 32

35 - 67

71 - 114

W e l c o me

Discove r

Ex pl ore

119 - 157 Taste

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not all about the caldera view; our crash course features the best you can experience on this multi-faceted island.

The history of Santorini has been marked by the continuous struggle for survival in a challenging environment.

Cosmopolitan Oia, laid-back Pyrgos and untamed Therasia represent the different faces of this mega-destination.

World-famous wines and delicious food products are the foundations of Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gastronomic scene.

WELCOME

| © VANGELIS ZAVOS

In Search of Balance a n i s l a n d o f 15 , 0 0 0 r e s i d e n t s c o p e s w i t h 2 m i l l i o n v i s i t o r s p e r y e a r

BY GIORGOS TSIROS e d i t o r - I N - C H IE F , G REE C E I S

Kids are playing in the courtyard of Oia Elementary School as their teachers talk to us about aspects of life of Santorini that none of the island’s two million annual visitors can possibly know about. How hard it is, for example, for civil servants posted to a tourism-oriented destination to find affordable housing. Or what a welcoming challenge it is to educate a varied student body, some permanent residents and some transient, in such a cosmopolitan and hospitable atmosphere. Santorini’s young population is growing – a sign of vitality and prosperity in a destination that offers jobs and prospects. Not all is rosy however: 11 percent of the island’s surface has been built on; there are 990 beds per square kilometer; water consumption has increased 60 percent in the past three years alone; and zoning violations are monitored by a single employee responsible for five islands. Santorini is an over-saturated vacation island, a sensitive ecosystem that cannot take any more buildings or visitors than it already has. For local authorities responsible for its protection, it is a constant uphill battle. Last winter, the destruction of the unique rock formations at Vlychada Beach at the hands of yet another hotel developer was prevented at the last minute. This year sees the trial launch of a cruise-berthing management system, limiting the daily number

of incoming passengers to 8,000 to avoid further congestion. Efforts to expand the tourism season into the winter, when visitors can enjoy a much quieter island at significantly lower costs, are starting to pay off, with 141 hotels staying open all year and four flights arriving each off-season day. Meanwhile, infrastructure is also being upgraded, starting with the airport, which is to receive a full overhaul after its acquisition by Fraport Greece. Problems aside, it is still a privilege to spend your vacation on this island, widely regarded as among the most beautiful in the world. You will stay in amazing hotels, encounter unforgettable landscapes, explore Europe’s best-preserved prehistoric settlement, taste amazing cuisine and wines that are gaining an increasing international reputation, right at their source. Santorini will make you fall in love with it. You’ll understand why couples travel all the way from China and other distant parts of the world for a few wedding photos here. You’ll find ample reason for rave reviews on TripAdvisor. You’ll take photos of your own that will be the envy of your friends back home and you’ll form memories that will last you a lifetime. The only thing that Santorini asks of you, its visitors, is to treat it with the love and respect that will help preserve it for your next visit.

A glimpse at the daily life that tourists often miss: children at play at Oia Elementary School.

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CONTENTS Greece Is - SANTORINI, 2017-2018 Issue, First Edition

greece is

30. Agenda. The cream of the season’s

EXPERIENCE 72. Oia. The jewel on top of the hill. 82. Pyrgos. Pride of place. 94. Therasia. Where time stands still. 104. Sunset Oia Sailing Cruises.

cultural crop.

“The best day of our vacation...”

DISCOVER 36. The Volcano. An inside look at the

Why just lounge when there are so many

ISSN: 2529-041X

activities on offer?

editor-in-chief Giorgos Tsiros (editor@greece-is.com)

TASTE 120. Harvest. Yiannis Nomikos,

commercial director Natassa Bouterakou

settlers to the 1956 earthquake that

the fava whisperer.

changed everything.

126. Grape. Santorini, an historical

46. History. The three lives of Santorini. 58. Archaeology. Bringing Akrotiri

wineland.

commercial inquiries Tel. (+30) 210- 48.08.227 Fax (+30) 210-48.08.228 Ε-mails: sales@greece-is.com, emporiko@kathimerini.gr

12. Τhe Basics. A crash course on what this island is all about.

28. What’s What? Landscape trademarks explained in brief.

112. Outside the Box.

constant scientific efforts to bring the secrets of this force of nature to light.

44. Timeline. From the first prehistoric

to light.

132. Wine. Assyrtiko’s astonishing rise. 134. Oenotourism. The grand tour of the island’s wineries.

144. Beyond Wine. Local producers ON THE C OVER A young saffron gatherer; detail from an Akrotiri fresco, taken from the book “Prehistoric Thera” by Christos Doumas, published by the John S. Latsis Public Benefit Foundation.

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fill your glasses with excellent beers and spirits.

146. Restaurants. From local tavernas to five-star venues, this island has it all.

published by E xe re vnitis - E xplore r S. A .

Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos St, Athens, 18547, Greece, Tel. (+30) 210.480.80.00 Fax (+30) 210.480.82.02

public relations welcome@greece-is.com Greece is -Santorini

is a yearly publication, distributed free of charge. It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.

THE BASICS A VIEW TO BEHOLD This vista, created by the strongest volcanic eruption in the past 10,000 years, is by far the most valuable “commodity” that Santorini has. For some, it may awaken passions; for others, it might soothe them. It may bring out the artist in you, or the philosopher; the dreamer, or the poet. It’s something for which you might pay hundreds, or even thousands, of euros, enjoying it in the comfort of a luxury suite hanging over the edge of a cliff. It may form the backdrop to the most significant, romantic and magical moment of your life. This view – and the setting around it – attracts 2 million visitors per year. It’s a guaranteed magazine cover-shot, a surefire ticket to hundreds of likes on your next selfie, a memory that will stay with you for a lifetime. It is the fundamental reason why Santorini is considered one of the most beautiful islands on the planet, and it’s also one of the greatest luxuries one can enjoy in life.

Photo courtesy of Canaves Oia Santorini Resort Recipient of a 2016 Conde Nast Traveler Reader’s Choice Award and a Travel + Leisure 2016 World’s Best Award. www.canaves.com/en

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Santorini: Poniros

Â© DIMITRIS VLAIKOS

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THE BASICS

SUNSET WORSHIPERS There is nothing metaphysical about a sunset: the Earth rotates, day slowly gives way to night, and the sun sinks over the horizon. As it does so, its rays must travel ever-larger distances through the atmosphere before reaching our retinas, meaning that the blue, violet, green, yellow and orange wavelengths of light are increasingly fil-

tered out, leaving only red light. The sky changes color, shadows lengthen and the landscape is transformed. All of this is more magical on Santorini because the viewing “gallery” is located at the top of a cliff and the burning disc of the sun appears to sink into the sea. The most famous spot from which to watch the sunset is in Oia, but be aware that during

high season, the thronging crowds can detract from the magic of the moment. Locals recommend Faros (Lighthouse) on Akrotiri, the westernnmost tip of the island, for reasons that can be seen in the photograph. Firostefani, Imerovigli (the island’s highest village) and Profitis Ilias (the island’s tallest peak) are also good options.

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THE BASICS

Every Beach is a Stage

Santorini is ringed by amazing beaches, with something for everyone. Perhaps the most dramatic of them all is Vlychada, pictured here. Its charm doesn’t end with its stunning cliffs and generous expanse of sand affording welcome isolation; there’s also an excellent beach bar. If you’re looking for something a little more lively, head a little further north to Perissa and Perivolos, where the crowd is young and the many bars and cafes are jumping, or beyond there to Kamari, a tourist hot spot with watersports and with all kinds of stores along the coastal road. Above here, head to Monolithos for a fam-

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ily-friendly beach with shallows and a lifeguard on duty If you turn west instead of north as you leave Vlychada, you’ll pass Red Beach first (unfortunately closed due to falling rocks) and then White Beach, both stunning stretches of coast near the site of Akrotiri. Continuing west, you’ll reach Mesa Pigadia with its impressive rock formations and excavated shelters. All the way at the other end of the island are the beaches of Koloumbo, Pori (with a small harbor and some tavernas) and Baxedes, which is particularly popular with families and windsurfers.

Despite the island’s popularity, it’s still possible to find spots where you can enjoy the natural beauty of the shoreline on your own.

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Â© GIANNIS GIANNELOS, VANGELIS ZAVOS

SOME LIKE IT HOT

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In springtime, even Nea Kameni, Santorini’s volcano islet, sheds its look of unworldly ruggedness and dons a cloak of wild shrubs and flowers that grow from the crags of its oldest formation. But whatever time of year you’re in Santorini, you absolutely must visit this young island (a mere 430 years old), with the newest volcanic surfaces in the Eastern Mediterranean, formed just 67 years ago. A listed natural monument, an active volcano that has given us three eruptions in the last century, an official Geological Park since 2003 and an ever-popular stop for catamarans on day cruises, Nea Kameni is indisputably an authentic experience. Its uneven terrain will test your met-

tle (a hat, sunscreen and a bottle of water are essential in the summer), the steam vents near the central crater that eject gases at temperatures as hot as 95° C will wow you, and its thermal springs will invite you to dive into the water – it’s a good idea not to wear your nicest light-colored bathing suit! Visitors are reminded that it is forbidden to stray from the trails, to take rocks as souvenirs or to tamper with the volcano monitoring equipment that can be found at various locations on the islet. If you want a more complete picture of just what a volcano is capable of doing, check out the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri (page 62).

There are six departures daily from the port of Fira, and two departures from the port of Athinios; rates vary. At the volcano itself, there’s an entrance fee of €2.50. For cruises with a stop at the thermal springs, ask at Sunset Oia Sailling Cruises (Page 108).

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the basic S

Delectable Natives Buffeted by powerful winds under a strong sun and often raised without any irrigation, the food crops of Santorini are hardy survivors adapted to their difficult growing conditions. They’re also packed with flavor characteristics that you won’t find elsewhere. In particular, the island boasts four local products with reputations that go far beyond the shores of their beautiful island; make sure you try them all.

Santorini Fava

Cherry tomatoes

White Eggplant

Capers

The local yellow split-pea, which in the kitchen has borrowed the name of a different legume entirely, does not dazzle in a range of dishes. Its singular role is as the irreplaceably flavorsome main ingredient in a purée that also includes onions; the dish is served warm and can stand alone or accompany either meat or fish.

The queen of the crops on Santorini is the small ruby-red cherry tomato, unique to the island. Thriving in the volcanic soil of the island, this little flavor-bomb contains more lycopene (the anti-oxidant that makes tomatoes so beneficial to our health) than any other tomato.

More than just its pale white skin distinguishes this amazing native from other eggplants. This is a sweet, firm variety that locals cook as a purée, as fritters, in casserole dishes both with and without meat, and even in an island recipe for scrambled eggs.

No one on the island grows capers; instead, they leave the job to Mother Nature, who causes these tangy green plants to sprout up in the craggiest places around Santorini. The entire plant is edible, but it’s the buds that really deliver that salty, slightly crunchy taste to fresh salads and, as a garnish, to the famed Santorini fava as well.

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THE BASICS

HEAVEN IN A GLASS

The Assyrtiko shimmers golden in your glass, the sea is spread at your feet and the view from the steep cliffs of the caldera is arresting. You are in Venetsanos (photo) in Megalochori, the island’s first industrial winery, founded in 1949. Similarly memorable wine-tasting experiences can be found all over the island, from Baxes to Perissa, and from Firostefani to Monolithos. Santorini’s winemakers are exploiting the richness of the local varieties – from indigenous vineyards, vital and productive for centuries – to create quality wines, which have impressed oenophiles and picked up prizes and distinctions worldwide. A tour of the Santorini canaves, or traditional wine cellars, will show you why. Ta s s o u l a E p ta k i l i

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the basic S

The Quiet Side It’s worth resisting the alluring call of the caldera, with its houses and hotels perched like eagles’ nests along the rim, to discover Santorini’s hinterland and its traditional “yposkafa” villages, where farming and winemaking once predominated. Built mainly in ravines to offer protection from pirate raids and adverse weather, these villages now represent paradigms of harmonious bioclimatic architecture. Inhabitants here did not just coexist; they lived close together in complex structures of horizontal dwellings where courtyards, stairs, rooftops, outdoor ovens and chimneys all formed a beautiful, fluid tangle. Finikia, located within walking distance of Oia, is a typical example of such a village, and many of its buildings have been restored. Walk around its narrow streets and stop in at the courtyard of the Church of Aghia Matrona (built in 1859), which holds a lively church fair every year on October 20th. Heading south from Fira, you go

through a number of villages in succession: Karterado, which was an important captains’ village in the 19th century; Messaria, home to the beautifully restored late 19th century Argyros Mansion (Tel. (+30) 22860 31669, open to the public on Tues-Wed, Fri-Sun, from 10:00-18:00) and Vothonas, a small yet impressive village built on the edge of a ravine. At Vothonas, it’s worth making the time to walk to Panaghia Trypa (also known as Sergena), a small church built into a steep volcanic cliff which served as a place of refuge during the Turkish occupation. Megalochori, meanwhile, boasts the island’s prettiest public square, while further south, just north of Vlychada, is Emporio, which was once Santorini’s biggest village and its center of commerce and trade. Wander around the labyrinth that is its Kasteli area and you’ll understand how this place helped inspire Jean-Paul Sartre to write his 1943 play “The Flies.”

1. The Church of Panaghia Trypa, carved from the rock, near Vothonas. 2. The Argyros Mansion has been impeccably restored and is open to visitors. 3. The village of Finikia is notable for its architecture. 4. The charming little square of Megalochori. 5. A quiet alley in the Emporio Kastelli. 4

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THE BASICS

THE ART LIFE

A wonderful stone building, a factory for ideas, a hub of cultural activity; the Santorini Arts Factory is all of these things. It combines interesting events (music, theater, dance and exhibitions) with the permanent exhibition of the Tomato Industrial Museum “D. Nomikos,” housed inside a former canning factory. Here, Kyr-Antonis, a retired mechanic, will share stories of the old days, when 3,500 crates of delicious Santorini cherry tomatoes passed through the plant’s pulping process every day. Outside Fira, painter Christoforos Asimis (his works are a paean to the beauty of Santorini’s landscapes) and sculptor Eleni Kolaitou, who creates wonderful jewelry, will (by appointment) give you a tour, together with their son Katonas and daughter Marianna, also artists, of their impressive art space “AK Art Foundation.” Inside the Venetian Kasteli of Akrotiri, you’ll find La Ponta, a museum of folk-music instruments and a workshop dedicated to making the tsambouna, a Cycladic wind instrument. La Ponta is the creation of instrument maker Yannis Pantazis and his Greek-American wife Argy Kakissis. Every year, they welcome 40,000 visitors who come to see traditional Cycladic instruments, listen to music or even sometimes learn to play these unique musical devices. In Megalohori, 1260 Ceramic Studio (run by Giannis Vlantonopoulos and Marina Taliadourou) has become a hotspot for friends, visitors and anyone else interested in seeing modern ceramics that have been created with passion and imagination. In Messaria, tons and tons of marble make their way through sculptor Grigoris Kouskouris’ hands every year as he forms his creations at the Spira Marble Art Gallery. In his workshop-showroom, he also holds classes for groups of up to 10 people.

1-2. AK ART FOUNDATION, Fira-Pyrgos Road, Tel. (+30) 22860.215.06, www.ak-galleries.com 3-4. La Ponta Workshop, Venetian Tower, Akrotiri, Tel. (+30) 22860.853.74, www.laponta.gr 5. 1260 Ceramic Studio, Megalochori, Tel. (+30) 22860.824.23, www.1260ceramicstudio.com 6-7. Santorini Arts Factory, Vlychada Beach, Tel. (+30) 22860.851.41, www.santoriniartsfactory. gr 8-9. Spira Marble Art Gallery, Messaria, Tel. (+30) 22860.332.69, www.kouskouris.gr

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GLOSSARY

What’s What? SANTORINI’S TR ADEMARKS EXPL AINED IN BRIEF

Kouloura Caldera

From the Spanish word caldera, meaning “cooking pot.” A massive, cauldron-like depression created by the collapse of the volcano. The geological history of the Aegean is written on its steep slopes and cliffs.

Blue domes

The traditional method of training vines to form circular, low-lying baskets on the ground, so that the grapes are protected from strong winds and the hot sun.

The church domes were not originally blue. They were painted this color to match the blue of the sky and the Aegean sea, and have become the island’s trademark.

Kapetanospita

Literally “captain’s houses,” the residences of wealthy merchants or ship owners, built in the late 19th century, a time of great prosperity and cultural development for the island. Usually two-storied, with large yards, verandas and gardens. The storage areas and wine cellars were on the ground floor, with the spacious parlors and bedrooms on the upper floor. Oia’s kapetanospita stand out in particular for their combination of austere geometric simplicity and Renaissance elements.

Churches

Traditional wine cellars for both making and storing wine. They were usually built underground or into the rock, primarily within settlements, with one or more vaulted ceilings and separate areas for pressing white or red grapes.

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Kasteli

A fortified settlement built when Santorini was under Venetian rule, each kasteli (castle) helped protect inhabitants from raids. Densely packed houses, with few openings to the outside, form closed rings with a fortress-like structure. Of the original five kastelia at Oia, Fira, Pyrgos, Emporio and Akrotiri, only the last three have been preserved.

Yposkafa

The most distinctive architectural feature of Santorini, these are long narrow dwellings dug right into the volcanic rock, with vaulted ceilings and, occasionally, domes. These “cave homes” often have exterior additions built from the same volcanic materials and display both remarkable ingenuity in terms of construction and an eye-catching sculptural quality. BY VO U L A D I D O N I , A R C H I T E C T

There are about 600 churches big and small on Santorini. You’ll even see tiny chapels in the narrow alleys of settlements, sandwiched between homes and yards. Why so many? Because the island’s sailors, when they were at sea, would vow to build a church upon their safe return. Canaves

agenda

What's On FRO M AT HLE T IC EVEN T S T O CL A SSIC A L CONCER T S , T HERE ' S A LW AYS SO M E T HING H A PPENING BY XENIA GEORGIADOU

The Aegean landscape June 10-October 8 Santorini Arts Factory hosts “Beyond White,” a series by Greek photographer Eugenie Coumantaros. Drawing inspiration from the simple architecture of the island’s chapels and making the most of the Greek sunlight, the artist has captured the Aegean landscape in abstract: whitewashed flagstones, dry stone walls, branches of olive trees and the like are magnified, dominating her images and highlighting the beauty of the landscapes in which they are found. • www.santoriniartsfactory.gr 30

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A new take on the bouzouki June 24 & August 26 The medieval village of Pyrgos, with its well-maintained mansions and wonderful churches, forms the perfect backdrop for the events being organized by Estia Pyrgou, the village’s cultural association. One standout event in this year’s program is Optima, a performance by a group led by bouzouki master and composer Vaggelis Trigas. This renowned virtuoso innovatively arranges pieces from various music genres, pairing the bouzouki with classical instruments such as the piano, cello and mandolin. The first

performance will take place at the association’s meeting house, and the second in the central square of the village. • www.santorinipyrgos.com

Musical Journeys July 25-August 28 Megaro Gyzi, the cultural center based in a historic 17th-c. mansion, together with St. John the Baptist Roman Catholic Cathedral, will host a range of free events during the Megaro Gyzi Festival. The Choir of the Hellenic Broadcasting Corporation (ERT), conducted by Dimitris Ktistakis, will take the audience on a journey through the Italian Renaissance, German

romanticism and American gospel. The Athens State Orchestra will present two of its exceptional musical ensembles. The program will also feature Syria-born oud player Haig Yazdjian, Greek singer Savina Yannatou, clarinet virtuoso Manos Achalinotopoulos and others. • Megaro Gyzi, Fira, • www.megarogyzi.gr

Summer festival September 1-5 The Municipal Sports, Cultural and Environmental Organization of Santorini, together with the Municipality of Thira, will host the 4th Strongyli Festival, with noted

Megaro Gyzi Festival

Ifestia

Santorini Experience

singer-songwriters such as Alkinoos Ioannidis and Leonidas Balafas, together with groups like Kitrina Podilata (Yellow Bicycles) from the contemporary Greek music scene. The headliners will be fronted by local bands and performers. • Santorini Indoor Sports Hall, Fira • www.dappos.gr

Classical music on the CLIFFS September 3-17 The International Music Festival of Santorini, in its 39th year, will once again treat visitors to wonderful sounds. Six classical concerts will feature leading musicians from Greece and abroad. Pianist Athena Capodistria, the festival’s founder and artistic director, together with the distinguished flutists Maxence Larrieu and Giuseppe Nova, will kick off the festivities with works by Bach, Cimarosa and Elgar, conducted by the artistic director of the Athens Concert Hall, Miltos Logiades. • Petros M. Nomikos Con32

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ference Center, Fira • www. santorinimusicfestival.gr

• www.santorini-experience.

The eruption

Perfect pairing

September 16 Every year, the “Ifestia” Festival recreates the volcanic eruptions that have sculpted the island’s dramatic landscape. A must-see event featuring sound, color and fireworks in a simulation of the earth’s convulsions, this show makes for an unforgettable and moving experience. • www.thira.gov.gr

Until October 15 The melodies of Manos Hadjidakis mingle with jazz songs and latin beats in “Methexis,” a live music event with pieces chosen and performed by Marina Dimitriou. For the 5th year running, the talented singer takes up residency at Santo Wines. • Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 18.00-21.00. Santo Wines, Pyrgos. • www.santowines.gr

Endurance sports October 6-8 Now in its third year, the Santorini Experience is an exciting sports event which features open-water swimming and running. Swimmers will cover the distance from the volcano to the old port of Fira, while runners can choose between three routes of 5k, 10k or 15k, passing through the villages of Imerovigli, Firostefani and Oia. All routes start and finish at the Oia desalination plant.

com

New Greek Art to October The cultural activity platform #Rest@rt, which operates under the aegis of the Ministry of Tourism, features visual artworks, sculptures, video-art projections and installations by distinguished Greek artists. The aim of the platform, according to its artistic director, sculptor Kelly Athanasiadou, is to highlight the trends and vitality of

the contemporary art world in Greece. 80 artists will present their work at exhibitions in Rhodes, Athens, and at two locations in Pyrgos, Santorini: the Aqua Gallery of the Art Hotel (part of the Aqua Vista Hotels group) and Voreina North Luxury Villas.

Defying gravity October 7 Thousands of spectators will pack the alleys of Oia in the hope of securing a good spot to watch the final of the 7th Red Bull Art of Motion. Well-known freerunners, together with upand-coming athletes, will compete on one of the best natural freerunning courses in the world. In order to qualify for the final, athletes must accumulate points based on the execution, creativity and flow of their movements, as well as being scored on their overall performances. The difficulty level of the maneuvers performed is also taken into account, as is the extent to which the course is utilized. • www.redbull.com/en/events

Poniros G l i t t er i n g j e w e l ry i n s p i re d by t h e l a n d o f S a n t o r i n i

unique because it is made entirely by hand. The detail of the fresco in the room of the Blue Monkeys in the Minoan Bronze Age settlement of Akrotiri, the island’s distinctive church domes, the colors of the sunset, or the pebbles that pave the Gold Street in Fira were the inspiration behind many a dazzling and timeless piece of jewelry. “I don’t follow fashion or trends. I design that which expresses who we are as a family, with the natural surroundings and history as my sources,” says Poniros. The Poniros company has 40 employees, five jewelry stores and 29 selling points in Greece; it also exports to other European countries, the United States, Hong Kong and Singapore. It remains, however, a closely-knit family unit that supports domestic jewelry production while maintaining a strong and successful business profile.

“MY DESIGNS express who we are as a family, with the natural surroundings and history as my sources OF INSPIRATION.”

For the past five years, Yiorgos Poniros has been designing the meticulously handcrafted Vatican Cardinal ring, a gift which is bestowed annually by the Vatican upon the Cardinal who has performed the most significant humanitarian work.

Info • 36 Ermou, Athens, Tel. (+30) 210.323.3066 • Main Street Oia, Tel. (+30) 22860.722.60 • Gold Street, Fira, Tel. (+30) 22860.251.65 www.poniros.com

Sitting on a small balcony that hangs over the sea at the Poniros boutique jewelry store in Fira, designer Yiorgos Poniros is using paper and pencil to draw a flower that will then be turned into a medallion. Poniros was only 12 years old when he drew his first piece of jewelry – it was an abstract shape inspired by the Greek meander. Having studied gemology in the United States and jewelry design in Italy, he represents, together with his brother Fotis, the third generation of jewelry-makers to continue the tradition of a Greek family brand whose history began in Constantinople in 1945. Drawing inspiration from nature, Poniros explains that Santorini provides a strong incentive for creation. Motifs and symbols like the vineyard are turned into objets d’art of yellow, white or pink gold, white and black diamonds, precious stones and stones with special colors, like kunzites, morganites and tourmalines. Each piece of work is

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THE ASHES OF TIME The story of Santorini is a struggle for survival against an inexorable foe â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the volcano that shaped the islands we see today. 1967: Early excavations at Akrotiri, under Spyridon Marinatos, uncovered the first indications of a prehistoric settlement preserved under layers of volcanic ash. Photograph by Vikentios Pintos

THE VOLCANO |

Below Calm WATERS Year after year, mission after mission, scientists have been delving deeper into the past to figure out how the volcanic system of Santorini will behave in the future.

Â© DIMITRIS VLAIKOS

B Y G i o r g o s T s i r o s P H O T OS V A N G E L IS Z A V OS

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THE VOLCANO |

ll around us, pleasure craft leisurely criss-cross the caldera and carefree tourists take photos of the enchanting volcanic landscape. Meanwhile, from the dimly lit monitor room of the German research vessel R/V Poseidon, we watch an underwater mission that is not for the faint of heart. The pilot of PHOCA, a remotely operated vehicle (ROV), is attempting to collect samples from solid lava rock at a depth of 260m on the southern walls of the caldera. The rock is exceptionally hard and, to make matters more difficult, the ROV changes position each time its steel manipulator arms exert any pressure on the petrified lava. But the pilot persists. Again and again. Finally, a piece of lava is pried loose and maneuvered into a special box. The scientists are eager to collect more samples before the sun goes down. When the ROV surfaces, the technicians immediately carry out maintenance work to ready it for the next

mission, the scientists take the samples to the laboratory and a second team – the night shift, whose task is to map the seabed – get to work. In the meantime, we visitors have gotten a small taste of the setbacks, the suspense and the feeling of satisfaction gained from a research project aimed at shedding light on the origin of volcanic activity around Santorini a million years ago. The distant past may hold the answers to questions about how the volcano is likely to behave in the future. “The sea hides all the secrets. We have examined the land thoroughly. All the eruptions of Santorini took place underwater,” says Paraskevi Nomikou, Assistant Professor of Geological Oceanography and Natural Geography at the National and Kapodistrian University of Athens and one of the world’s leading experts on the Santorini volcano. During the past 500,000 years, the volcano has erupted and been reborn from its ashes 12 times, bring-

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THE VOLCANO |

ing dramatic changes to the physical structure of the islands around it. The devastating eruption that occurred around 1610 BC broke up the formerly single island of Strongyli into three separate isles – Thera, Therasia and Aspronisi – and created the caldera, an enormous rectangular lagoon measuring approximately 12x7k with a depth of up to 392m, surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs 300m high. Underwater geophysical surveys have revealed that, during the Minoan eruption, the strongest of the past 10,000 years, approximately 40 cubic kilometers of pyroclastic flows were deposited on the seabed around Santorini. The gigantic tsunami triggered by the eruption devastated the northern coast of Crete, leading eventually to the collapse of Minoan civilization.”We have a new theory that the tsunami was not in fact caused by the collapse of the caldera, but by these pyroclastic flows that hurtled down the slopes of the volcano and hit the sea with violent impact,” says Dr. Nomikou. “The sea floor is revealing the truth.” In the centuries that followed, there have been other, less powerful, eruptions, such as those between 1707 and 1711 which created the islet of Nea Kameni – where visitors

can walk on the still active volcano – and the most recent, in 1950, which created the youngest volcanic rocks in the eastern Mediterranean. Signs of activation accompanied by intense seismic activity in 2011-2012 rekindled scientific interest in the volcanic system of Santorini and more particularly in the submarine volcano Kolumbo, located 7k to the northeast. Kolumbo erupted in 1650 and is currently the most active and potentially dangerous volcano in the Aegean Sea. Recently, scientists from Italy and Greece discovered that its crater, whose floor lies at a depth of 500m below sea level, is emitting powerful bursts of fluids and gases approximately every two minutes: a phenomenon known as volcanic “breathing.” The first systematic bathymetric mapping of the seabed in the wider region of the Santorini volcanic complex, extending over 2,300 square kilometers, was carried out in 2001. This was the first time that the caldera and the structure of Kolumbo were mapped in great detail. In addition, at least 20 more submarine volcanic cones were discovered north-east of Santorini, between the islands of Anydros and Ios. Subsequent expeditions brought to light the active hydrothermal field of the volcano at a depth of

It takes surgical precision and a lot of patience to collect rock samples from the deep, using the mechanical arms of the ROV.

The ROV PHOCA, its drawers filled with underwater rock samples, is brought up for maintenance.

THE VOLCANO |

1. Graduate student Phillip Kosbü (University of Kiel) and petrologist Dr. Thor Hansteen (GEOMAR), examining newly collected samples at the lab. 2. University of Athens Post-graduate students Theodora Ioannou and Danai Lampridou prepare the Sea-Bird Rosette sampler to collect water samples.

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500m, with chimneys emitting fluids and gases at temperatures up to 220oC. Samples were collected from the chimneys, along with the gases and fluids which indicate activity levels as well as the bacteria covering the seabed. A turning point in efforts to locate the magma chamber of Santorini came with the international experiment known as PROTEUS (Plumbing Reservoirs Of The Earth Under Santorini), which was carried out in late 2015 by Greek, US and British scientists aboard the most advanced seismic vessel in the world, the R/V Marcus G. Langseth. This was the first time that an exhaustive study was conducted of the Amorgos-Santorini underwater region and geophysical maps were made of the geometry of the magma chamber system of the Santorini-Kolumbo volcanic complex, with ten times more detail than for any other volcano in the world. To achieve this, 91 specially designed seismometers were installed on the seafloor, along with a further 65 on land. “The study of active structures in the underwater region of Amorgos is of paramount importance to us, since it allows us to pinpoint the seismic fault that caused the devastating earthquake on Santorini in 1956. We are studying the region to learn as much as possible about the quake, because the more we know, the better prepared we will be,” notes Dr. Nomikou. Last spring, the baton was taken up by the German research vessel R/V Poseidon of the Kiel-based GEOMAR Helmholtz Centre for Ocean Research, one of the world’s leading marine science institutes. The aim of the mission, headed by Dr. Jörg Geldmacher, was not just to shed ample light on present

activity, but to look at the past as well: to ascertain, by means of underwater sampling, the history of this volcano’s evolution. The R/V Poseidon is not the newest (built in 1976) nor the largest (length 60.8m) research vessel of the German Research Fleet but it has proven itself worthy in seas around the world, from Greenland to Cape Verde, hosting various teams of scientists. In early March, it launched the autonomous underwater vehicle “Abyss” between Santorini and Amorgos, mapping 100 square kilometers of the seabed and searching for traces of tectonic activity and submarine eruptions. This was the first time that an active volcano in the Aegean has been mapped with such high definition using this method. “During a second expedition in April, we conducted 6 ROV surveys (photogrammetric mapping), 15 ROV sampling dives, 21 dredge hauls, 43 wax corer deployments and 5 CTD stations (with water sampling). During the 3

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nights, we completed 906 nautical miles of multibeam mapping,” says Dr. Geldmacher. After two months, and alternating emotions of frustration and success, hundreds of rock and mineral samples have been collected for analysis. Nature has not yet revealed all her secrets. Nothing can stop the volcano, but every effort is being made to control its impact on human life. Volcanologists and other experts from around the world are systematically studying, recording and observing seismic activity in the area, the level of the coastline, changes in temperature and the composition of the vapors and hot springs, all as part of a reliable monitoring system that allows them to predict when the next volcanic eruption will occur within a window of a few months to a year. Thanks to an increasing body of knowledge, the rest of us can simply enjoy the results of the geological events that formed the caldera and gave Santorini’s colorful rocks their special beauty.

1. “Scientific work is so much more rewarding than moving containers around the world,” says Captain Matthias Günther of R/V Poseidon. 2. Scientists Paraskevi Nomikou, Jörg Geldmacher and Thor Hansteen plan the next steps of the mission. 3. Built in 1976, but equipped with state-of-the-art navigation systems, the R/V Poseidon has taken on missions around the world.

We thank Captain Matthias Günther and the crew of the R/V Poseidon, as well as mission chief scientist Dr. Jörg Geldmacher and his colleagues, for their kind cooperation.

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turbulent HISTORY The devastation caused by the volcano did not stop pioneers, fortune hunters and conquerors from sailing for Santorini’s shores through the centuries.

4500 BC

The first inhabitants arrive. Traces of their presence have been found at a number of locations, particularly the settlement of Akrotiri.

Archaeological Site of Akrotiri

18th century BC © VANGELIS ZAVOS, GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

The settlement of Akrotiri takes on the characteristics of a large town and assumes a key role in sea trade, maturing into a sophisticated civilization.

Detail of an offering table, Museum of Prehistoric Thera

4500 BC 44

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1614-1613 BC

The Minoan eruption buries the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri under thick layers of pumice and ash, leaving the island uninhabited for centuries.

288 BC

8th century AD

Inscribed Roman-era steles at Ancient Thera

Photo of Pyrgos

The island moves into the sphere of influence of the Ptolemies, who transform it into an important naval base.

Continuous Arab raids on the coast force the inhabitants to move further inland, establishing new settlements.

Akrotiri. Section of the Flotilla Fresco, National Archaelogical Museum

8th century BC

King Theras (with a few dozen Spartans) establishes a colony at the top of Mesa Vouno and names the island Thera in his own honor.

Theran Geometric amphora, Museum of Prehistoric Thera

4th century AD

1154

The Church of Panaghia Episkopi, the most important Byzantine monument on the island

Detail of a map drawn by the geographer

During the Byzantine period, Santorini becomes part of the Province of the Islands.

The Muslim geographer Al Idrisi is the first to call the island – formerly known as Kallisti, Strongyle and Thera – Santorini (Santa Irini).

In 1154, the Muslim geographer Al Idrisi is the first to call the island – formerly known as Kallisti, Strongyle and Thera – Santorini.

1207

Following the Sack of Constantinople in 1204, Marco I Sanudo establishes the Duchy of the Archipelago. Thera and Thirasia are given as fiefdoms to Jaccopo Barozzi.

1566

After years of Ottoman raids, including an attack by the notorious pirate Barbarossa, Santorini is finally forced to recognize the sovereignty of the Sultan.

The Barozzi family crest

Detail of a copper engraving by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur

1487

1707-1711

The island is annexed by Venice, seven years after being given as part of a dowry by the Duke of Naxos, Giacomo III, to the Duke of Crete, Domenico Pisani.

The Venetian tower known in Ottoman times as “Goulas”

Volcanic eruptions result in the formation of Nea Kameni, the tiny islet in the center of the caldera, which acquired its present form as recently as 1950.

18th-19th centuries

january 1950

View of Emporio in a tinted copper engraving from 1782

Photo by Giorgos Ioakeimidis

Santorini becomes home to one of the largest merchant fleets in the Aegean.

1830

Santorini is integrated into the newly established Greek state. The island’s naval force participated in Greece’s liberation from Ottoman rule.

Watercolor by Aristides Glykas, Oia Maritime Museum

The last recorded eruption results in the creation of the most recent volcanic rocks in Greece.

July 9, 1956

The most powerful earthquake in Europe in the 20th century (7.8 on the Richter scale), its epicenter the nearby island of Amorgos, causes extensive damage.

A prayer after the earthquake. Photo by Walter Carone for Paris Match

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Â© GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE, MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/GENERAL DIRECTRORATE OF ANTIQUITIES AND CULTURAL HERITAGE/EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF CYCLADES

Buried in meters of volcanic ash, Akrotiri stands like a time capsule of Late Bronze Age Cycladic life.

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history

THE THREE LIVES OF SANTORINI Over the years, the island’s extraordinary volcanic landscape provided a maritime crossroads for Minoan and Egyptian traders, Saracen pirates and Venetian lords. By John Leonard

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hese days, shipborne visitors landing on Santorini quickly come face to face with its impressive geological and cultural past, as they disembark at the foot of its sheer volcanic cliffs. Three main archaeological attractions – the houses and streets of “Pompeii-like” Akrotiri, the ruins of the hilltop town of Thera and the island’s once-fortified towns and watchtowers – bear witness to three major phases in Santorini’s lengthy history: the prehistoric period, Geometric through Early Christian or Byzantine times and the medieval to early modern era. Recurrent features in all these times were war and peace, as Santorini (or Thera) evolved from being a quiet island settlement, to a key maritime crossroads, a frequent target for pirates and, most significantly for its native population, a political plaything of great Western and Eastern powers. Rise and Fall of Akrotiri The earliest inhabitants of Santorini arrived during the Neolithic era, by at least the 4th millennium BC. Minimal, scattered traces of their architecture and pottery reveal they were very few in number, probably attracted by the natural abundance of the volcanically-formed island – freshwater springs, rich, arable soils and an encircling sea well-stocked with fish and other marine creatures. Obsidian was also a much-desired volcanic product in Neolithic times, used for tool manufacturing, and early sea travelers may have looked to Santorini as a potential source of this valuable raw material, supplementary to the region’s main supply on nearby Milos. As prehistoric seafaring expanded in the Aegean, more and more people migrated to Santorini, settling especially on a peninsula (“akrotiri”) at the southwestern end of the island, beside a large, south-facing bay that offered a naturally protected harbor. After limited Neolithic occupation, the site known today as Akrotiri was reinhabited during the Early Bronze Age, from ca. 2,500 BC, and then went on to become 48

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Akrotiri’s multi-storied buildings featured suites of rooms with multiple doors, light wells and lustral basins. Water and waste were managed through a complex system of pipes and drains.

an increasingly populated, prosperous and architecturally elaborate urban center and maritime hub through the Middle and early Late Bronze Ages (ca. 2,000-ca. 1,627 BC). In the last quarter of the 17th c. BC, however, one or more earthquakes and minor volcanic eruptions were followed by a massive, far more devastating explosion that altered the island’s landscape and buried the town of Akrotiri beneath meters of

volcanic ash. Thus was created one of the Mediterranean’s great archaeological sites, covering an enormous area of about 200,000m2 (20ha), which serves as a long-sealed time capsule of Late Bronze Age Aegean life. Rediscovered in 1967 by archaeologist Spyridon Marinatos, Akrotiri has been steadily unearthed to the point where now about one hectare of ruins can be viewed beneath a vast protective

1. One of the platforms that provide excellent views over the archaeological site. 2. Leaping dolphins, in a wall painting from ancient Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.

roof. Removal of the thick ash layer revealed a remarkable prehistoric town: a sophisticated Cycladic culture heavily influenced by the Minoans of Crete, who likely were frequent visitors for trade with Akrotiri or even long-term or permanent residents. Cultural affinities with Knossos and other Minoan centers include a light-spirited appreciation of nature and life, reflected in the more than fifty-eight colorful fres-

HISTORY

coes so far recovered and conserved. Among the extraordinary images are semi-tropical and spring landscapes, papyrus plants, dolphins, monkeys, antelopes, nearly-naked boxing boys, a young priestess, elegant ladies harvesting saffron, a fisherman holding up his bountiful catch and a fleet of ships arriving at port. Scenes from a naval battle may be allusions to an historical event and may show that life on Santorini was not always serene. Minoan architectural influence is seen in Akrotiri’s multi-storied buildings, some with suites of rooms with multiple doors, light wells and lustral basins. Water and waste were managed through a complex system of pipes and drains. Akrotiri’s excavations, led by Professor Christos Doumas since 1975, have also yielded tens of thousands of ceramic vessels and other artifacts of stone, metal and ivory. Even traces of wooden furniture, bed frames and basketry have been preserved within the site’s volcanic overburden. Some thirty-five buildings stand beneath the modern roof, separated by a network of streets occasionally punctuated by small open squares. There are lavish public buildings such as “Xesti 3,” where a small golden ibex offering was found in 1999, and the imposing “Xesti 4” with its monumental façade of

3. A portable ceramic oven/stovetop from Akrotiri, 17th c. BC (Archaeological Museum of Thera). 4. Firedogs or “souvlaki trays” with bulls-head finials, from Akrotiri, 17th c. BC (Archaeological Museum of Thera).

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From the 9th c. BC until the spread of Christianity, the ancient city atop Mesa Vouno was the only urban center on the island.

squared blocks and a painted procession of life-sized male figures that flanks its stepped entranceway. Private residences include the “West House,” which features storerooms, workshops, a kitchen, a mill installation, a weaving room, a storeroom stocked with ceramic vessels, a bathroom and two possible bedrooms splendidly decorated with murals. The exotic subjects of some wall paintings and the many imported objects recovered at Akrotiri indicate the town enjoyed links with the outside world, including mainland Greece, Crete, other southern Aegean islands, Cyprus, Syria and Egypt. Its diverse population included traders, craftsmen, fishermen, farmers, shepherds, priests, priestesses and probably civic officials, at least some of whom were literate, judging from inscribed Linear A tablets discovered in “Building Complex D.” To date, no royal palace or other evidence for a singular leader has been detected. Also lacking are any skeletal traces of the inhabitants themselves. This could mean they rightly took earlier seismic and volcanic events as signs of impending disaster, and thus were able to evacuate their doomed island before its final, cataclysmic eruption. According to Doumas, further investigation outside the town – especially westward, where residents may have fled upwind to avoid smoke, ash and noxious gases – may still reveal burials or other archaeological clues regarding the ultimate fate of the exceptional and mysteriously absent Akrotirian people.

Ancient Thera: THE Mountain Citadel After the great Theran eruption, there is scant archaeological evidence for inhabitants on the island for many centuries. The historian Herodotus, however, reports that during this period, “…Theras…was preparing to lead out colonists from Lacedaemon [Sparta]. This Theras was of the line of Cadmus… and…held the royal power of Sparta… On the island now called Thera, but then Calliste, there were descendants of Membliarus…a Phoenician…[who had] dwelt [there]…for eight generations… It was these that Theras was preparing to join…to settle among…and not drive them out but claim them as in fact his own people.” The presence of such mainland Greek (Dorian) colonists is well attested in the 9th and 8th c. BC by Geometric graves and pottery, which indicate the island’s new center of settlement was now on its east coast – on the slopes and summit of the mountain Mesa Vouno, overlooking the bays of Kamari and Perissa. It was here that the Geometric-through-Early Byzantine town of “Ancient Thera” was established. Thera, named after its mythical founder, grew to be a far-reaching trade station, as shown by hundreds of excavated coins (6th c. BC) linking the town with Athens and Corinth to the west, and Rhodes and Ionia (western Anatolia) to the East. It also sent out its own colonists when, as Herodotus further reports, a seven-year drought (ca. 630 BC) led Therans to sail to Libya and establish the great port city of Cyrenaica. Thera’s zenith came in Hellenistic times, during the 4th-2nd c. BC, when Alexander the Great’s rivalrous suc-

Info A n c i e n t T h e r a is open daily except Mondays (8:00 – 15:00). A r c h a e o l o g i c a l M u s e u m o f T h e r a (Tel. (+30) 22860-22.217) Summer hours: Mon, Wed, Fri 8:00-15:00; Thur, Sat, Sun 8:00-20:00; Tues 12:00-20:00; winter hours to be determined.

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Thera’s zenith came during the 4th-2nd c. BC, when Alexander the Great’s rivalrous successors and later the Egyptian Ptolemaic navy exploited its port facilities as a strategic naval base.

Geometric-period vases are the earliest surviving works of art from Ancient Thera. (Archaeological Museum of Thera).

cessors and later the Egyptian Ptolemaic navy exploited its port facilities as a strategic naval base. The fortified mountain-top town was reorganized with a more regular plan of paved, often stepped streets; affluent courtyard houses appeared; and religious/public life was enhanced with numerous temples, sanctuaries, gymnasia, Doric stoas (colonnaded walkways), a theater and/or council house (capacity 1,500) and, in Roman times, a bath complex. German and Greek archaeologists, excavating since 1895, have unearthed a central marketplace and administrative center (agora); a major sanctuary honoring the Spartan deity Apollo Karneios; a large manmade terrace for hosting the annual Karneia festival; another sanctuary adorned with statues and relief-carvings, founded by the Ptolemaic admiral Artemidoros 52

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of Perge and dedicated mainly to Poseidon, Zeus and Apollo; a shrine for the Egyptian gods Serapis, Isis and Anubis; a natural grotto dedicated to Hermes and Hercules; and many dwellings, including an impressive residence thought to belong to the commander of the Ptolemaic fleet. In early Christian times, Thera became the seat of a bishopric â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the first bishop was Dioskouros (AD 324-344) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and several basilicas or smaller churches were soon established, sometimes on the spot of a previous pagan temple or shrine whose stones were reused for the new building. By the 8th or 9th c. AD, Thera had declined and was finally abandoned, perhaps partly as a result of renewed threats from the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s volcano, such as the heavy barrage of pumice stone recorded as having fallen on the town in AD 726.

Serving dish; a representative example of Theran pottery in the Geometric and Archaic periods. (Archaeological Museum of Thera).

Clay figurine dating to the 7th c. BC, with amazingly well-preserved colors. From the position of the arms above the head, it is believed to depict a woman mourning. (Archaeological Museum of Thera).

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The Kasteli of Emporio.

Outside interference and Ultimate Freedom In addition to the dangers they faced from volcanic activity, Santorinians were also plagued by seaborne bandits and covetous foreign powers. The story of Santorini in the medieval and early modern era represents a microcosm of the larger history of the Aegean islands during this period. Many coastal communities, seeking greater security, moved inland after the mid7th c. Marauding Saracen (Arab/Muslim) pirates took control of Crete in the early 9th c. and began exacting tribute or “taxes” from the Cycladic islands. Through the following centuries, Santorini held little political or military significance and suffered greatly from poverty. With the European Crusaders’ victory over Constantinople in 1204, the Venetians moved into the Aegean; Mark Sanudo took Naxos in 1205; and his relative Jaccopo Barozzi was initially granted “Santorini,” a name that recalls the conspicuous church of Santa Irini (Aghia Irini) in coastal Perissa. As wealthy, adventuring lords divided up spoils from the Fourth Crusade, a feudal system was imposed in the Cyclades much like that in Europe; sea routes through the region were made safer; and maritime trade flourished. In Santorini, wine and cotton became profitable products. An aristocratic culture also developed. John IV Crispo, a governor of the Duchy of Naxos (15181564), is said to have fostered a lavish court life and tried to emulate locally the Western Renaissance. Despite such lofty aspirations, the Aegean remained fraught with risk. The Santorinians of the 13th through 17th c. increasingly found themselves on the fringes of a watery battlefield, caught between disputatious ByzanG R E E C E IS

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| © GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE

Panoramic view towards the island of Thirasia from the castle ruins at Aghios Nikolaos, Oia.

tines, Venetians, Genoese, Catholics, Orthodox, Spaniards (Catalans) and Turks. Commonly heard on Cycladic streets and wharves were Greek, Italian and Turkish, while even the multi-lingual wording of contemporary legal documents reflected this rich mixture of cultures. Pirates of diverse origin also continued to pose a threat, as they repeatedly raided Santorini and neighboring Aegean islands. Among them were the Barbary Pirates (from North Africa) and the infamous Barbarossa, Grand Admiral of the Ottoman Navy, in the 16th c. Albanian, Maltese and other Christian pirates – such as Hugues Creveliers, “the Hercules of the seas” – defied the Turks’ increasing hegemony in the 17th c., often aided by priests and monks who gave them provisions. Francois Richard, a Jesuit, recorded at this time that Santorini had poor resources and suffered from severe drought when rainwater did not fill the islanders’ rock-cut cisterns. Moreover, he noted that, to counteract the danger 56

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of pirates, “most of the villagers’ houses or farmhouses, even churches and chapels, are underground. Thus, many families have over their roofs the fields, vineyards and gardens they cultivate.” Santorini’s wines, according to Richard, were exported to Chios, Smyrni, Chandakas (Heraklion) and Constantinople. The larger towns or important manors on Santorini were fortified by the island’s Venetian lords with stout, castle-like walls. These “kastelia,” equipped with gateways and “goulades” (watchtowers), existed at Skaros (or present-day Imerovigli), Oia (Castle of Aghios Nikolaos or Apanomerias), Pyrgos, Emporio and Akrotiri (Punta Castelli). Although heavily damaged by the earthquake of 1956, remains of these defensive structures are still visible today. They stood on strategic spots, difficult to attack from the sea, and served as nuclei for expanded settlement during later, more peaceful times. The best-preserved outlying watchtower is that of the Venetian Bozzi family in the

island’s present-day capital of Fira. Santorini’s fortunes greatly improved following the Greek War of Independence in 1821. Despite characteristically arid soils and few fresh water resources, agriculture and industry developed and commercial shipping flourished through the 19th and early 20th c. Before steam ships eclipsed sailing vessels in the late 1800s, Santorini possessed one of the largest merchant fleets in the Aegean, while Oia came to be known as “the village of the captains.” The devastating 1956 earthquake severely altered the island’s upward course; many homes were destroyed, lives were losts and livelihoods were wiped out. The people of Santorini once again returned to poverty and hardship. However, since the economic resurgence of the 1970s, Santorini has, with the help of its unique history, stunning geology and burgeoning wine and tourism industries, now reached new heights of world-wide popularity as a vacation destination.

A R C H A E O LO GY

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...AND THERE WAS LIGHT

Marking 5o years of excavations at Akrotiri – his life’s work – archaeology professor Christos Doumas talks about the “Pompeii of the Aegean.” BY TA S S O U L A E P TA K I L I

ebruary, 1961. A young archaeologist arrives by sea in Santorini, after a 48-hour sail from Mykonos! He has changed boats twice, overnighted in Syros and Ios, and now catches his first glimpse of the caldera at dawn. “Anyone who hasn’t visited Santorini by boat at least once, entered that giant crater and sensed the awe that it provokes, is missing out,” says Christos Doumas, emeritus professor of prehistoric archaeology. Back then, he was 28 years old and a junior archaeologist in the Cyclades. His mission was to evaluate a group of graves (early Christian, as it turned out) that had been revealed during building work to enlarge the high school of Thera – as the island is officially called. Santorini in those days bore no relation to the glamorous image it presents today. “Everywhere there was evidence of the great earthquake of 1956. Oia was a tiny village, almost in ruins. At Fira, there was only Nikolas’ taverna. That is where all of us, the workers who weren’t locals, went to eat. Most of the island’s inhabitants were farmers or herders – there were very few craftsmen – and given that they only produced grapes and tomatoes, they had to import a lot of their produce.” That year, Doumas spent only a few weeks in Santorini. But he would come back, and stay for good.

1968: Christos Doumas with acclaimed archaeologist Spyridon Marinatos (right), who had begun excavations at Akrotiri a year earlier in search of the prehistoric settlement.

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Today, 2017. A few months ago, Christos Doumas was made an honorary citizen of Thera. It was to be expected. His occupation with the island’s ancient heritage now goes back more than 50 years. “As a student of the ancient civilizations of the Aegean, I have become accustomed to measuring time in millennia. Half a century is like an instant,” the professor and director of the Akrotiri excavations says, laughing. “However, taking stock of what I have achieved in that half century makes me feel rich. Once, a high school student from Emporio asked me what I had gained from working in Santorini all these years. I repied that ‘the wealth that I acquired here is priceless. And it is of such a kind that I am not afraid of losing it or having it stolen.’” In the autumn of 1968, Doumas returned to Athens from England, where he had received his doctorate. “I presented myself to Spyridon Marinatos, the general director of the Archaeological Service, who one year earlier had begun to excavate Akrotiri. He asked me where I would like to serve. I replied that I would prefer to return to the Cyclades. ‘I need someone to work with me at Akrotiri,’ he told me. That is how I found myself back in Santorini. I was lucky. By working next to Marinatos, I learned a lot.” From that point on, Doumas never left. He now feels like a Santorinian. “I feel like an Akrotirian! If I go a month without visiting the excavation, I get withdrawal symptoms…”

Detail of the Flotilla Fresco from the wall of Room 5, West House. Warships arrive in port while residents come out of their homes and descend to the quayside to welcome their loved ones. A colorful, miniature narrative, it is one of the restored frescoes of Akrotiri not exhibited in a museum.

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“In the long-term history of Aegean civilisation, Akrotiri is considered on a par with the Acropolis and Mt Athos.”

Pride in Akrotiri In 1974, Marinatos passed away and the following year Doumas himself took over running the excavation, bringing to light an amazing wealth of finds and information. He continues to work tirelessly at the age of 83. “We should be proud of Akrotiri. It is on the curriculum in every university in the world where archaeology is taught. In the long-term history of Aegean civilization, it is considered on a par with the Acropolis and Mt Athos. It is an incredibly significant heritage, which it is our duty to present to the world, and not to abuse,” he says. Listening to him talk about prehistoric Thera is a joy. He talks about its inhabitants who, having covered their basic needs, graduated to pleasure, developing gastronomy. He speaks, too, of the flowering of art as way of projecting social status and about a society with a democratic structure. “It is not accidental that men, women and children are all depicted to an equal degree in the frescoes. This is why Akrotiri is known as the ‘prehistoric Venice of the Aegean,’” he explains, referring the Italian republic’s reputation for egalitarianism. Even hearing him talk about the volcanic eruption, the largest on the planet in the last 10,000 years, that totally destroyed Santorini and the nearby islands, is fascinating. “If it weren’t for the volcano, we wouldn’t have Santorini as we know it today, and of course there would be no Akrotiri. The volcanic ash ‘saved’ the remains of

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| © “PREHISTORIC THERA” BY CHRISTOS DOUMAS, PUBLISHED BY THE JOHN S. LATSIS PUBLIC BENEFIT FOUNDATION

the prehistoric town from the passage of time,” he stresses. What has he learned from archaeology? “That the history of humanity can’t be shoehorned into the little boxes that we archaeologists have created, such as ‘from x date to y.’ It is a continuum, and if you can’t understand that, you won’t understand anything. Every civilization is nothing but the sum of the responses of humans to the environment. We have a variety of environments on this planet, and therefore a variety of civilizations.” And what has this excavation still got to contribute, 50 years on? “Within the covered area, we’ve identified 35 buildings. Of these, only four have been excavated, and we’ve recovered over 14,000 whole pots from them! You can appreciate that we still have many centuries of work under this protective roof!” 62

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Santorini of yesteryear Doumas’ stories bring us back to a time when even a telephone call was a complicated undertaking. “From the excavation site, we had to walk to Mrs Kalliope’s house; she had the only telephone in the area. She connected us to Pyrgos, they connected us to Fira and then the call would go through to Athens. The whole thing took about an hour.” Doumas wasn’t always at the site. “From 1968, when I settled permanently, I spent all week at Akrotiri and on weekends I explored the ‘other’ Santorini: the trails, the villages, the Byzantine and post-Byzantine monuments. I wanted to understand how this society evolved. For example, in Fira at the time, there were around 15 carpenters, for a population of fewer than 400. Why, I wondered, did they need so many? I soon learned that they crafted the bar-

“The history of humanity can’t be shoehorned into the little boxes that we archaeologists have created, such as ‘from x date to y.’ It is a continuum.”

Unearthing the Spring Fresco.

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Scene from another great fresco: in a lush mountain landscape, women gather saffron - a precious Theran product, prized for its color, aroma and reputed aphrodisiac properties!

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A detail featuring the expression of the older saffron gatherer from a mural which has not yet been exhibited at the Museum of Prehistoric Thera.

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rels for the wine that was exported. The ships that left mainly for Odessa (which had a large Greek community) full of barrels of wine couldn’t return empty; it wasn’t economical. So they filled their holds with wheat and stacked their decks with tree trunks for the Santorinians to build new barrels for the next round of exports. These are the kind of fascinating things I learned.” In Santorini, Doumas learned about more than the place and its people; a mainlander, he got to understand the behavior, culture and character of islanders. “Santorinians, even if they didn’t all travel, heard stories from the sailors, and had open horizons, as all islanders do. They developed a respect for ‘the other,’ an understanding that, all over the world, people face more or less the same problems. And another thing: for the islander, the sea is a road that can open up new horizons, but if you don’t develop initiatives, if

you don’t improvise when required, the almost perpetually stormy sea can ‘eat you alive.’ This uncertainty accounts for the fact that we Greeks find it hard to plan ahead. For the Aegean islander, it’s the end goal that matters, not the time required to accomplish it.” Recently, Prof. Doumas authored a book titled “Prehistoric Thera,” which is published by the John S. Latsis Public Benefit Foundation and distributed for free to research institutions such as museums and university libraries. What did he want to convey to the reader? “An understanding that ‘sic transit gloria mundi’ or ‘thus passes the glory of this world.’” Is he concerned about his own legacy? “Honestly, no. I’ve done good things and bad things. Some will remember the former, others the latter. It’s my reputation now that concerns me, not after I’m gone. I don’t believe in the next world. I’m not afraid of becoming a cloud…”

Christos Doumas, archaeologist: “What have we learned from Akrotiri? ‘Sic transit gloria mundi’ ‘Thus passes the glory of the world.’”

“Prehistoric Thera” is available in English, in ebook format, on the website of the John S. Latsis Public Benefit Foundation: www. latsis-foundation.org/eng/electronic-library/ the-museum-cycle

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VISITING aKROTIRI

Xesti 3

Xesti is a Homeric word used to describe buildings with exterior walls constructed of dressed stones. Each of these structures was numbered in the order in which they were discovered. Buildings with such distinctive masonry were clearly not random. Indeed, some of them have been shown to have a public character. These include Xesti 3, left of the entrance to the archaeological site, and Xesti 4, a little to the right. Others, with a more limited use of dressed stones, have been proven to be private houses, apparently belonging to prosperous families.

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Beta Building

A two-story construction located east of Telchines Street, Beta Building has suffered much damage from the seasonal stream that flowed beside it. Inside this building were found some of Akrotiriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important wall paintings: the Boxers, the Antelopes, the Blue Monkeys (pictured) and the Fourfooted Animals.

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Square of the Miller

Inside the south entrance to the structure known as Complex Δ (Δ15), a milling installation was found. The small square located just in front of the entrance to this place is conventionally called the “Miller’s Square.”

House of the Ladies

A large two-story structure with a central light well, it owes its name to the wall paintings that covered the north and south walls of one of its rooms (pictured: female figure from the south wall). Three colored ribbons, reminiscent of waves, form an arch, probably representing the celestial vault, over the figures. In the western part of the same room, the Papyrus Fresco was found.

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Telchines Street

In ancient mythology, the Telchines were sea monsters with human faces, believed to have taught the art of metalworking to humans. This name was given to the first street that was unearthed and which later proved to be the town’s main thoroughfare - because in Building Γ, the first building encountered on the road’s left side, a ground-floor room contained heavy stone hammers and anvils, indicating that it was a metallurgical workshop.

Alpha Section

This is a building complex on the northern edge of the excavation. Also known as the Pithoi Storeroom, its name comes from the discovery in the complex’s three largest rooms of many pithoi (storage jars) containing legumes, flour and barley. Next to it is the North Mill, in which was found a milling facility and a basket containing fish and sea urchins.

The West House

The “Plateia” of the Triangle

The largest public square in the town of Akrotiri, at the point where Telchines Street ends. Located on the west side of Delta Complex, it was thus named because of its shape. On the southwest side of the square is the House of the Anchor, while on the northwest side stands the West House.

Square of the Double Horns

This house, with three floors and sixteen rooms, was once an affluent residence. On the ground floor were food stores, workshops, a kitchen and living quarters for workers and servants. Upstairs, there was a work space with a loom, a storage room, a toilet and two additional rooms serving as living rooms during the day and bedrooms at night, both adorned with magnificent wall paintings and other fine decorations. From these rooms come the murals of the Fishermen (detail pictured) and the famous miniature known as either the Fleet Fresco or the Flotilla Fresco.

Curetes Street

Double horns were an element of Cretan prehistoric architecture copied by Thera’s wealthy merchants/sailors, but we don’t know exactly what they symbolized. Given the close economic and cultural relations now recognized to have existed between Thera and Crete, especially after the start of the 2nd millennium BC, such cultural transmission seems unquestionable.

When other streets of the prehistoric town began to emerge through further excavation, mythology aided us again in following Marinatos’ example of using mythical groups for their names. One such group was the Curetes, benevolent spirits who protected the baby Zeus from his father Kronos by using their metal instruments to produce a loud noise.

Info Akrotiri lies at the southwestern tip of the island, 15k from Fira • The archaeological site is open 8:00-20:00 daily until the end of October. Winter hours: 8:00-15:00 daily except Mondays • Tel. (+30) 22860.819.39. • Original souvenirs and artwork are available from the kiosk of the non-profit Society for the Promotion of Studies on Prehistoric Thera, just outside the complex. All proceeds go towards the excavation and restoration work in Akrotiri. M u s e u m o f Pr e h i s t o r i c T h e r a Fira, Tel. (+30) 22860.232.17 • Open 8:00-15:00 daily except Tuesdays.

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Alexandros H an d m a d e P er f ect i o n Alexandros Rogavopoulos has been a goldsmith his entire life. He began designing jewelry at the age of 15, and it’s easy to see a common thread – the concept of classical beauty – in his designs and collections over the years. He divides his time between his workshop in Athens and his two shops in Fira and Oia, both named Alexandros. He also travels abroad every year, primarily to the United States, in order to draw inspiration from modern trends and refresh his creative spirit. Every piece that Alexandros creates requires time and reflection. Using 18 and 22 karat gold which he obtains from Switzerland and from well-respected sources in Greece, he creates intricate designs with Greek and Byzantine motifs for his signature line. He begins working in his workshop in November and, by March, the collection has taken shape. Lustrous yellow gold, white diamonds and glittering precious stones, including emeralds, sapphires and rubies, provide the raw material for his creations.

Often, Alexandros will place a diamond at the base of a design and use other precious stones as embellishments. “The most demanding stage in the making of a piece is the handling of the stone; exceptional care is needed in cutting it, placing it and even pinning it,” he admits with a humility that belies his many years of experience. His handmade creations, reminiscent of earlier eras, evoke a gentle sense of nostalgia. Classic collections by Alexandros are available at his two shops on Santorini; they are, one might argue, pieces fit for a museum, as they will never be reproduced. Thanks to partnerships with Italian companies, he also offers a carefully curated selection of modern jewelry from other makers, with pieces for all ages. Over the years, he has succeeded in building a list of faithful international clients who love the style and trust the quality of Alexandros.

“The most demanding stage in the making of a piece is the handling of the stone; exceptional care is needed in cutting it, placing it and even pinning it.”

alexandrosjewelry.gr Gold Street, Fira, Tel. (+30) 22860.254.70 Main Street, Oia, Tel. (+30) 22860.273.13

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SANTO RI N I

SO MUCH TO SEE From the picture-postcard village of Oia and the laid-back town of Pyrgos to the untamed island of Therasia, Santorini offers plenty to explore. 1954: Vicky Nomikou, member of a prominent Santorini family, stands on the porch of the Langadas Mansion with Pyrgos in the background.

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A Jewel at the Cliff’s Edge This sparkling village, once a stronghold of the island’s shipowners and captains, is Santorini’s crowning diamond. BY NENA DIMITRIOU PHOTOS PERIKLES MER AKOS

Like a sparkling diamond on the apex of a tiara, the village of Oia glitters brightly in the sunlight.

The neighborhood of Sideras, with its wellrestored Kapetanospita, or Captain’s Houses.

The vaulted ceilings are characteristic of the architectural style of many of the island’s mansions.

On the side of Oia that doesn’t face the caldera, you’ll find plenty of small churches and traditional barrel-roofed dwellings.

The bustling Main Street of Oia, with its boutiques, art galleries and jewelry, has everything you need right at hand.

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“In the Doric dialect, the word oia meant ‘far,’ and so when the government sought a new, more elegant name, it chose Oia, because the village was so far from all the other settlements.”

The hard-working but well-cared-for donkeys of Oia are ready to help you get around.

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1. The entrance to the Maritime Museum, where you can learn a great deal about Oia’s long and vital relationship with the sea. 2. Iconographer Dimitris Koliousis at work in his studio on Main Street.

Stocking the shelves at Atlantis Books, an underground den of literary wonders in the center of town.

f Santorini were a house, then Oia would be its parlor-room. Then again, the balcony might be a more appropriate metaphor, when you consider how it hangs suspended above the Aegean, looking down on Ammoudi Harbor and out over the rest of Santorini and the islands of Therasia and Kameni in the distance. “In the Doric dialect,” explains Nicoletta Nomikou, who was our guide on a recent evening stroll, “the word oia meant ‘far,’ and so when the government in the interwar period sought to bestow a new, more elegant name on the place, it chose Oia, because the village was so far from all the other settlements.” Up until the 19th century, the village was a prolific shipbuilding center known as Apano (or Pano) Meria, which translates simply as “the upper side.” Its inhabitants, who were

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called Oiates or Panomerites, were mostly seamen or ship owners, and the boatyard in Armeni built large caiques. Every shipowner was also the captain of his craft, which was typically crewed by family members. They loaded their vessels at Ammoudi Harbor with barrels of Vinsanto, a wine made with sundried grapes from the local vineyards and matured in Finikia, in wine cellars known as canaves. This cargo was often destined for the Black Sea, or for the Orthodox communities of Russia, who used Vinsanto wine for Holy Communion. Saved by an earthquake Until the 1950s, this small part of the world, where today hordes of visitors jostle each other and wedding photographers struggle through the crowds to set up the best shot, had no electric-

ity, no paved roads and, of course, no guesthouses or tavernas. Oia was a sparsely settled village, and its narrow ways were graced not by tourists but by the horses, donkeys and mules used to transport goods or for farm work in the nearby vineyards. All this changed on July 9, 1956, the day of the catastrophic earthquake that flattened the whole village and many other parts of the island. The houses in Oia, which were made of stone and mud, collapsed. The inhabitants scattered in whatever direction they had family. Many would never return. The center of Oia, that area left and right of the marble-paved street, along with the public squares and churches, was rebuilt within about ten years, along with new homes for the earthquake survivors. Building materials and army personnel were sent from

Contemporary artwork on display in the foyer of the Oia Art Gallery.

Piraeus for the reconstruction effort. In order to get everything to Oia from the main harbor of Kamari, a road was built. It was, at first, just a dirt track. The new houses were constructed using concrete, with strong foundations and distinctive, barrel-shaped roofs. These “barrels” can still be found along the main road, atop single-story structures now nestled in between luxury dwellings. “Around the same time,” our guide tells us, “electricity arrived on the island and we got a regular boat service. In 1976, a military airfield was built, which almost immediately began being used for civil aviation, so flights started, and so did tourism. That’s why, in Santorini, we say ‘O sismos, sosmos,’ or, in English, ‘The earthquake was our salvation.’” Cosmopolitan and for every taste What you might not know about the caldera area, so glamorous today, is 78

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that in older times it was inhabited by the poorest islanders, who lived in single-story homes built from aspa, a mixture of volcanic ash, pumice stone and pieces of solidified lava and sand. The “good” neighborhood was the inland side of the village, or Sideras, where the grand, two-story captain’s houses were located, with their distinctive architectural features and a characteristic transom window above the entrance. Many still survive, either as houses or as restaurants. Today, the traditional village of Oia is one of the most popular destinations for visitors. It is almost as famous as the island of Santorini itself. The castle, whose ruins welcome crowds of romantic visitors every evening, offers a spectacular view of the sunset. There are a number of world-famous luxury hotels and holiday accommodations with contemporary spa facilities, infinity pools and personal jacuzzis (they come with amazing views, too) as well as dozens of

There’s always an opportunity to take a picture in surprising Oia.

Timeless fashion from the designer Vassilis Emmanuel Zoulias.

Potters, jewelers, artists working in stone and fabric, sculptors and painters all have unique creations available. It could take you several strolls to find what’s perfect for you.

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The early birds will get the best seats from which to watch Oia’s spectacular sunset.

dining options for every budget. There is a hair salon, a post office, a primary and secondary school, a health center and one of the most famous bookshops in the world, Atlantis, housed in an yposkafo carved right into the rock. The Maritime Museum preserves the history of the village and, with it, much of its character. There is, however, no turning back the clock; while Oia has a permanent population of only 1,000, with over 8,000 vistors a day from cruise ships alone, it becomes, for a few hours at a time, a very popular and lively place. Arts and crafts Walk along the central, marble-paved road which joins the luxury Canaves Oia Hotel to the castle, a distance of about one kilometer. This is the starting point for your descent to80

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wards the hotels and restaurants of the caldera; it’s also the main commercial street, lined with shops of every kind. Boutiques here feature both Greek and international designers: Soho-Soho for the best-known global brands and fashion houses; retro-style gowns in the elegant boutique of Vassilis Emmanuel Zoulias; design accessories from Andronis Boutiques; and silk, cashmere and wool accessories at the Silk Shop. In smaller shops, look for handmade Greek creations by young designers such as Ioanna Kourbela. Stunning jewelry by Greek designers and jewelers shine in the display cases of boutiques like Poniros. Check out the classic gold designs by Alexandros, or discover jewelry, ornaments, paintings and other vintage paraphernalia in Oia’s only antique shop, which

resembles a small, open-air bazaar. Distinguished artists also maintain their own galleries in Oia. Worth visiting are Asimis-Kolaitou AK Art Gallery; Kyrkos Art Gallery; photographer Nikos Rigopoulos’ Oria Gallery; and the workshop of Dimitris Koliousis, a self-taught icon painter who has also decorated Panaghia Episkopi Church. Lesser-known artists from all over Greece – potters, jewelers, artists working in stone and fabric, sculptors and painters – also send work to be displayed and sold on this illustrious stage. With this much talent around, it could take you several strolls to find what’s perfect for you.

Many thanks to our guide, Nicoletta Nomikou, who is available for tours. Tel. (+30) 693.221.4130).

PYRGOS

pride of place The former capital of Santorini and the best-preserved medieval settlement on the island, the village of Pyrgos retains an unruffled air of easy grace. BY G I O R G O S T S I R O S P H OTO S VA N G E L I S Z AVO S

PYRGOS

ust seven and half kilometers south of Fira, a different side of Santorini emerges, an aspect that harkens back to the picturesque Greek villages of yesteryear. Here, the pace of life is more relaxed; cats stroll in the alleys, families dress up in their Sunday best to go to church, and piano lessons can be heard through the open windows of the cultural society. The main square, with its tall pine trees and quaint little coffee shops, is the focal point for socializing and entertainment. Regardless of the season, its busiest time is noon, when people gather for ouzo or Santorinian beer accompanied by excellent local meze. This is Pyrgos, the largest preserved village on Santorini and the island’s former capital. Strategically built in the heart of the pre-volcanic hinterland and at the foot of Mt Profitis Ilias, Pyrgos affords panoramic views. Yet, located that bit further from the famous caldera, it has been spared the terraces, balconies, infinity pools and master suites that adorn the glossy covers of tourist magazines the world over. Pyrgos is not swamped by sunset spotters, nor is it the first choice among the hordes of cruise-ship passengers. Its charm is different: more subdued, less picture-perfect, little advertised. Ask the locals what the difference is between Pyrgos and the rest of the island in terms of social profile, and you’ll get conflicting answers. For some, it’s that the villagers are more cultivated and more united among themselves, while for others, it’s that its location has kept the village relatively untouched – at least for now – by the tourist industry that is flourishing on the island. It is a fact, however, that on Palm Sunday, as I was going up to the top of the medieval Kasteli (castle), I was overcome with emotion. The historic

Even the relatively short distance that it stands from the rim of the caldera has taken Pyrgos down a different path of development.

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1. Strolling through the main square, with its welcome shade trees and its two cafĂŠs.

4. A father and daughter, returning from church services on Palm Sunday.

2. Father Michail, the priest of the Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary.

5. Detail from the magnificent pulpit of the Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary, following its long restoration.

3. The upper square, near the entrance to the Kasteli, with the Church of Aghios Nikolaos, founded in 1660 by Bishop Parthenios Gavalas of Thera and renovated in 1980.

6. Maria the Kastelian, a living witness to the history of the village. 7. A traditional dance presentation, featuring the young dancers of the Estia Cultural Center of Pyrgos.

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The ingenious architecture – making use of all available space – lends an air of theatricality to the old part of the town and makes it the perfect spot for selfies.

Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary (1660), one of Santorini’s largest and most important places of worship, was welcoming the faithful for the first time after a lengthy restoration: its masterful pulpit and intricate woodcarved altarpiece have been fully restored after centuries of wear and tear. Shortly afterwards, a crowd of local people and friends of the island, including parents with their young children, rolled up their sleeves and cleaned the castle in preparation for Easter. Black plastic bags, disposable gloves and bottled water from the square were handed out as everybody worked in good spirits – mission accomplished! “What we’re trying to instill in young people is the idea that only with love and affection for our land and its 88

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history, and with solidarity within the community, can we ever guarantee the future of the village and the preservation of its monuments and churches – all the things that attract visitors,” explained Giorgos Darzentas, president of the village council. “People in Pyrgos have not yet been corrupted by tourism money. Our businesses are modest and down to earth, and people care about the environment and maintaining the architectural profile of the village. As much as we can, we avoid discord. All of us who are able offer money, time and effort. Pyrgians love Pyrgos, and this becomes evident to our visitors.” Darzentas goes on to show me an intricate pebble mosaic that paves the yard in front of the church: “This too, we made with our hands.”

The local cultural society supports these civil efforts wholeheartedly. Founded in 1949 but later falling dormant for a number of years, the society has, under the leadership of its current president, Makis Zorzos, been rejuvenated and now hosts dozens of cultural events, while also offering dance, music and theater lessons to teenagers and young children. “We operate an exhibition space and an information center on the main square, we manage the village library and historical archives, and we offer help to students who get into university. All of this we do with our own funds and with donations from friends of the village.” His own two sons serve the common cause as well. Lefteris, who studied archaeology in London, runs the first-class Voreina Suites Hotel while simultaneously overseeing the digitization of Santorini’s historical and photographic archives. He also owns Crossroad, an antiques store and art gallery that is counted among the finest in the

“Only with love and affection for our land and its history, and with solidarity within the community, can we guarantee the future of the village and the preservation of its monuments and churches – all the things that attract visitors.”

Once upon a time, the Pyrgos Kasteli had so many passageways that inhabitants only caught glimpses of the sky. Photograph by Nelly’s, circa 1925 (Benaki Museum Photo Archives)

Cyclades. Vassilis, the other son, is an architect who undertakes new builds but also oversees restoration projects that respect the architectural identity of the area. It is, however, only in the last ten years that – thanks to this nucleus of permanent residents and friends who are concerned about its medieval heritage – Pyrgos has embarked on the path of mild and controlled tourist development. Its most beautiful mansions, such as Villa Ioulia and Zannos Melathron – both built at the end of the 19th century by the rich ship owner and wine merchant Michalis Zannos – have been restored in exemplary fashion. Now operating as luxury accommodation, they offer their guests the atmosphere of a bygone era. 90

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In 2010, Yiorgos Hatziyannakis – the first man to transform the island’s local produce into haute cuisine in the 1980s with his renowned Selene Restaurant in Fira – adopted Pyrgos as the base for both his gourmet restaurant Selene and its more casual sibling, Selene Meze & Wine. Another Fira legend followed suit. Franco’s Bar, which made local history by providing perfect cocktails and classical music as an accompaniment to the famous caldera sunsets, now has a bird’s-eye view of the island from the vantage point of Pyrgos. The common denominators among these new establishments are balance and moderation. Aesthetic missteps have, for the most part, been avoided. If you feel inclined to visit Pyrgos, get your climbing shoes on. This is the

1. The courtyard of the19th-century Villa Ioulia, a painstakingly restored mansion that is available for vacation rental. 2. Inside Crossroad Antiques, where one can find items not only from Santorini but from different parts of the world as well. 3. Yiorgos Hatziyannakis, the culinary pioneer of the island and owner of the Selene and Selene Meze & Wine restaurants (right) with chef Vassilis Zaharakis. 4. Detail from the facade of Zannos Melathron, a 19th-century mansion transformed into a boutique hotel.

PYRGOS

“The view from the roof was of vineyards, nothing else,”, says Maria. “Now, it’s only houses. All the villages have become one big town. At night when they’re lit up, I feel like I’m in Athens.”

only way to explore the Pyrgos Kasteli, the best preserved of the five Venetian castles that once adorned the island. Don’t worry about getting lost; just head uphill from the main square and you’ll find it, a fortress hamlet that started life as a monastery and grew in size after the arrival of the Venetians at the beginning of the 13th century. It initially consisted of two- and three-story houses, wisely built into a dense, labyrinthine compound, with the outer walls forming a perimetric shield against pirate invasions. The one and only gate led to the interior, and a guard bolted the wooden-and-metal door shut at sunset. Over the door, there was a fonissa or murder-hole, through which hot water could be poured onto the heads of intruders. When, with time, the risk of invasions diminished, the dwellings of the fortified perimeter dropped their guard, opening up windows, doors and liatika (sheltered balconies), and the original citadel began to expand beyond the walls of the castle, forming the Kseporto (literally, “outside the gate”). Some villagers still remember living within the Kasteli, before the earthquake of 1956. One, an affable, nonagenarian lady who now lives in the new square of the village, introduces herself proudly as Maria the Kastelian. “You couldn’t see the sky; it was all narrow, vaulted passages. On moonless nights, my aunt would carry an oil-lantern to light the way for us to visit our neighbors; that’s how we passed the time. We cooked in earthenware pots over wood fires, and the food tasted delicious because of it. Kastelians had it better than the rest; they called us nobles.” 92

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The house where Maria grew up shared a wall with the Church of Aghios Iakovos, a vaulted structure dating from 1805. She can still remember to whom every house in Kasteli belonged. Her legs are too frail now to carry her up the 120 steps, but her living testimony is a mine of information for researchers of the area’s history. Alterations inside the Kasteli, she explained, were carried out with great skill by real craftsmen who used mules to carry their materials. “When it rained, the water flowed into our yard to fill up our cistern, and then it would overflow into the gutter and spill into the street below – we never flooded. One house was next to or on top of the other. You could enter through one door and exit into the next street. The view from the roof was of vineyards, nothing else. Now, it’s only houses. All the villages have become one big town. At night when they’re lit up, I feel like I’m in Athens.” Pyrgos, like the rest of Santorini, changed radically after the earthquake of 1956. Puzzlingly, the Kasteli, because of the calcareous soil it sits on, did not suffer much damage in the quake itself. When, however, the civil engineers came to inspect the buildings, many sound houses were condemned purely for financial reasons. Upper floors were knocked down, filling the ground floor with rubble. In some cases, they even used cement to stabilize the remains. Homeowners sold properties for a pittance or abandoned them, and moved into the new homes that were built for them on the lower outskirts of the village in an undertaking that changed the shape of Pyrgos. Despite these modifications, Pyrgos

still has a lot to offer. There are small galleries, such as Kallisti, boutique cafés like Kasteli 1663 (with its homemade desserts and permanent exhibition of black-and-white photographs), and elegant restaurants. The Church of Aghios Nikolaos, with its square, draws visitors, as does the little museum of icons and church relics (including a rare icon of St George from the early 15th century) housed in the church of Aghia Triada. There’s even a chance you might meet Father Michail, who can let you into the Theotokaki – a tiny, 14th-century chapel under restoration at the north end of the Kasteli which, in its original form, could barely fit four or five worshippers. The natural light streaming through the only door will illuminate the unique altarpiece and make your elated soul rejoice when, for a few precious seconds, you become privy to this well-hidden gem in the mega-destination known as Santorini.

Further uphill Further uphill beyond Pyrgos is the Monastery of Profitis Ilias (17111724), at the top of the mountain of the same name (at 567m, Santorini’s highest point). There are still a few monks living here and, even if you don’t make it for the evening vespers – a mystical experience – you can still enjoy the unprecedented view. On a clear day, you can see north as far as Folegandros, Ios and Sikinos, or south to Crete, where Mt Ida (or Psiloritis, as it is also known) rises faintly visible on the horizon.

Oia, Santorini, Greece | 84702 | tel: (+30) 22860 71114

email: info@lcsantorinirestaurants.gr | operating hours :19:00-23:30

The Monastery of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, built in the 19th c. on a promontory of Cape Trypiti, welcomes the faithful every August 15th.

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Where Time Stands Still Born from the same volcanic womb, Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smaller, wilder sister will awaken the explorer in you. B Y G I O R G O S T S I R O S p h o t o s v a n g e l is z a v os

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A common sight on Therasia, mules can be seen at work or at play.

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t’s like stepping into a time machine. The short boat ride from Ammoudi, the small harbor serving Oia, to the nearby island of Therasia takes you back at least 50 years – to a rural Greece, to a Santorini without tourists. Together with present-day Santorini, this smaller island – variously described as “innocent,” “pristine,” “a wild beauty,” “under-developed” and “off the map” – once formed part of a larger island called Strongyli. The volcanic eruption of the late 17th c. BC cut Therasia off from the rest of the land mass, showering it with billions of tons of magma that turned into pumice and ash, increasing its surface area to 9.3 square kilometers. At the same time, the caldera was formed – the sea ravine that links, but also separates, Therasia from its larger, cosmopolitan sister. Even though archaeological research in the Aegean started on Therasia, the island’s history is scarcely

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known today. Scattered evidence of human activity testifies to its being continuously inhabited from prehistoric times, with human presence shifting locations in order to ensure survival. Historical references to Therasia are few and fragmentary. Even Herodotus – who devotes eight chapters to Thera, as Santorini was known – ignores Therasia completely. The most plausible explanation is that it was never regarded as a separate entity, but rather as a weak, poorer satellite. This perception applied even in times of prosperity, such as during the Roman era, when it was an important export center for agricultural products. Over the centuries, the continuous volcanic activity and the way residents reacted to it changed the island. During the 19th century, Therasia became a significant source of pumice, an important building material used in major construction projects such as the Suez

The two islands today exist in diametrically opposed circumstances: Santorini has abandoned itself to the frenzy of development while Therasia swings between nostalgia and inertia.

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Canal and the ports of Trieste and Alexandria. The winding down of the mining industry and the outbreak of World War II brought about widespread poverty. The island’s two pumice mines, both the “old” one in the south and the “new” one in the north, were abandoned. “My father would come and ask my mother to give us a nudge, to check if we were alive,” recalls an elderly man whom we meet on the road. He makes it very clear though, that despite all the hardship he endured, he never thought of leaving the island he grew up on. Others, however, have. Its permanent population – which half a century ago numbered 500 – has gradually declined. Men went to find work elsewhere; as miners in Lavrio, Attica (which still has a sizeable Therasian community), as immigrants, mostly to the United States, or as sailors traveling the world. Today, most of these exiles are retired and winter elsewhere, but in the summer they return to their

island for some peace and tranquility. “Until the mid-20th century, Santorini and Therasia followed more or less similar paths, as agricultural land lost its value and was slowly abandoned,” explains Clairy Palyvou, Emeritus Professor of Architecture at the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, who in 2007 undertook the first systematic research of the island’s history, together with Iris Tzachili, Emeritus Professor of Prehistoric Archaeology at the University of Crete. “Since the 1960s, tourism in Santorini has grown by leaps and bounds. Today it ranks among the most famous vacation destinations worldwide. This sudden change has had sweeping consequences in all areas, cultural and environmental. Therasia did not tag along, though. It stayed behind as if frozen in time. Today, the two islands exist in diametrically opposed circumstances: Santorini has abandoned itself to the frenzy of irrational development while Therasia swings be-

1. The small tourist-focused harbor of Korfos comes to life every summer to welcome daytrippers arriving on launches from Santorini. 2. The symmetrical façade of the Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary (1887), one of the most beautiful churches in the Cyclades, which was constructed by the famed Santorinian master builder Yiannis Saliveros.

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Family photographs on the wall of one of the few remaining canaves, excavated spaces for making and storing wine, on Therasia.

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A simple inscription above the entrance to the Church of Aghia Eirini (Saint Irene) states that the building was finished on May 5th, 1867.

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tween nostalgia and inertia. It awaits a better future, in which the Santorini model has no place.” That may be why, on this “little Santorini,” with its 250 permanent residents, electricity didn’t arrive until 1980, why drinkable municipal water (from water tanker ships) was introduced in 1999 and why the first road was not paved until 2008. Therasia now has an ATM, a citizens’ service center, a newly built medical center with a single nurse, but it still lacks a police station, a coffee shop that is open all year round and a barber. There are only a few rooms to let, a handful of tavernas, and a few seasonal shops for the tourists. For all provisions – even for garbage disposal – Therasia is dependent on its “bigger sister,” Santorini, which shines from across the caldera as a separate, bright, clamorous world. “The earth is scorched and arid; the vegetation low, beaten by fierce meltemi winds… A single vine can be seen getting green here and there and the towering agave stalks display their graceful flower clusters. Underground tanks, scattered among the fields and by the sides of the roads, collect precious water, while drystone walls spread out everywhere in the warm, dark, red-gray hues of their volcanic core,” writes Maria Arakadaki, Associate Professor of Architecture at the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, a participant in the Therasia study. “Visitors have a strong sense of stepping back in time, to an era when the countryside was used for farming, public transport and water supply sys-

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tems were not taken for granted and sustainable development (a necessity linked to a bygone cycle of life) was not the latest buzzword in agriculture. The daily pace is slower, a pickup truck retrofitted with benches serves as the taxi, and donkeys – no longer a frequent sight in rural Greece – still play an active part in village life: strong, sturdy donkeys, adorned with beaded and tasseled bridlework, that one can see grazing in the scorching sun along dirt roads.” EXPLORERS FOR THE DAY Is it worth interrupting your time on Santorini to get on the boat that services Therasia two or three times a day? Yes it is, because the island is a magical place that offers that rare sense of real discovery. Even more importantly, the discerning traveler will recognize the human achievement behind the taming of this inhospitable land and admire the harmonic adaptation of the community to the natural environment. Ninety percent of the area is covered by artificial terraces – hundreds of tiny plateaus (on fields, hills or even canyons), all carved out by hand to accommodate human labor and activity. Intricate dry stone walls – up to two meters in height – form and support the terraces. Both elements testify to the ability of the craftsmen of yesteryear and to the special relationship that the islanders have with their land. Dry stone walls and terraces were not a means to prosperity – purely one of survival. Creating arable land was a necessity for people who had to provide

The discerning traveler will recognize the human achievement behind the taming of this inhospitable land and admire the harmonic adaptation of the community to the natural environment.

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for their basic needs. At the same time, it was also a way of preserving invaluable rainwater. Taking advantage of the island’s morphology, the farmers here managed to build an intelligent irrigation system that gathered the free-flowing water from torrents, channeling it to wherever it was needed. Furthermore, dry stone walls lined the island’s road network as well, a network which provided the locals with access to their arable land. The overall unity between the manmade and the natural highlights the skill of these early craftsmen: their work has stood the test of time. Unfortunately, the land they worked so hard to tame is no longer farmed, due to the difficult conditions, declining numbers of young people, dwindling prospects and an abundance of wild rabbits. Introduced at some point to provide game for hunters, these animals multiplied at an uncontrollable rate and now wreak havoc on crops. Despite all this, for those keen on walking, Therasia is still a gem. Once you step off the small boat that drops visitors off at Riva – the harbor across from Oia – you’ve come too far not to visit the two village communities on the island. Manolas, the larger one, developed in a line along the ridge of the caldera in the 19th century, mirroring Fira, Imerovigli and Oia on Santorini. Manolas also boasts Panorama – a taverna that lives up to its name with first-class views across the caldera. The village is linked, through a series of cobbled steps, to a small harbor below, Korfos, where the only tourist shops on the island are to be found. The other community is Potamos, where many of the homes are carved into the rock: built within a canyon, it remains an active spot even in winter. Near Potamos is Agrilia, an otherwordly and almost deserted farming village, where only a few of the original 130 houses remain occupied. The settlement was carved out of the sides of a dry gulch, on three different levels. The most sought-after and best-built houses were on the lowest level, close to the communal path. Over

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1. The village of Potamos.

2. Dry stone walls helped create the roads and paths of the island as well as the terracing for farming.

3. Women from the island are preparing the traditional Easter treat “melitinia,” made with unsalted myzithra cheese and honey.

4. Dimitris Syrigos, president of the local community, and his dog.

5. An overview of the nearlyabandoned Agrilia settlement.

6. Perivolas Hideaway, an ultra-luxury boutique resort, accessible only by boat or helicopter.

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So close and yet so far... The view of Santorini from Therasia, with the two Kameni islets in the foreground.

this landscape stands the Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary (1887), generally considered one of the most beautiful in the Cyclades. For the intrepid at heart, a unique hiking experience is the path leading from Manolas to the weather-beaten chapel of Profitis Ilias, then on to Kera – a tiny, now deserted, community of buildings carved into the rock that overlooks the sea – and continuing south to the Cape of Trypiti where you’ll find the Monastery of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. The breathtaking view will make you feel like you’ve reached the end of the world. “We invite visitors to Santorini to

come here, too, and discover something different,” says Dimitris Syrigos, president of the local community and a man who, despite his profound love for his island, spent half his life on ships. It’s ships that help keep Therasia alive, too. Every summer the locals who work in tourism prepare for the daily arrival of boats with visitors who alight, see what there is to see – perhaps enjoying a meal – but then, because of a lack of any real infrastructure, leave on the same day. This unspoilt island could certainly claim a greater share of the tourism market by following its own course of development and embracing the discerning and wealthy. The first serious

investment in this direction was made two years ago, when Therasia saw the opening of Perivolas Hideaway, an offshoot of one of Oia’s most emblematic resorts. A diving center and luxury lodge, the Hideaway has just four super -luxurious suites near the site of the old mines. The recipient of a European architectural award, it is reachable only by sea or air (it has a heliport), and is so perfectly integrated into the landscape as to be practically invisible. No wonder it served as the chosen hideaway of Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt when they were still Hollywood’s golden couple. Most locals, however, have never actually set eyes on it.

The above article greatly benefited from “Therasia I: A Timeless Route,” the first systematic interdisciplinary field study of the island, headed by professors Palyvou and Tzachili within the framework of the Thalis Research Program. Sincere thanks are due to Dimitris Syrigos, who acted as our local guide.

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| SUNSET OIA SAILING CRUISE S |

“The Best Day of Our Vacation...” 104

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With their rave reviews, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s little surprise that, year after year, Sunset Oia Sailing Cruises earns a TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence.

Good times and unparalleled vistas on board the Sunrise.

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| E XPE RIENCE |

egardless of the vantage point from which you observe it, Santorini is a spectacular island to behold. Whether watching the sun cast its golden glow on the houses in the center of the picturesque village of Oia or exploring the beautiful seascape on one of Sunset Oia’s chartered yachts, you will be dazzled by this island paradise. Away from the throngs of tourists, a tailor-made cruise to picturesque coves and remote beaches offers a chance to experience another side to this popular destination. In addition to sunrise and sunset options and excursions to the volcano, with breaks for swimming at the hot and cold turquoise patches of the sulfuric springs of Palia Kameni, travelers can also enjoy other sea adventures, including snorkeling in the deep blue waters around the caldera, sunbathing while taking in the striking beauty of the landscape, or even just sampling the delicious snacks and dishes available on board, all while being treated to the personal service offered by Sunset Oia. The prestigious yacht and catamaran charter company has been a frontrunner in providing activities on the seas around Santorini since it was launched in 2009. From its base in Oia, the company offers exclusive, semi-private and tailor-made excursions on board a wide variety of top-of-the-line vessels, combining affordable packages with top-rate luxury and comfort, and always with passenger safety as top priority. For this reason, Sunset Oia’s vessels are manned by professional captains and expert sailors with years of experience under their belt. The crews are seasoned, not the boats. It is important to note that Sunset Oia’s fleet is the youngest of its type in Greece and that it’s continuing to grow. The most recent additions are two brand-new catamarans. The Sunset Milos, an Ipanema 58 catamaran with an overall length of 17.8 meters, can carry 24 passengers. Its morning and sunset tours start and finish at Ammoudi Harbor and take visitors on a sea route around the island, making stops at traditional favorites including 106

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the hot springs the Red Beach and the White Beach. The other new addition is the Sunset Delos, a Lagoon 450 almost 14 meters in length, which takes its passengers on 5-hour morning or sunset tours to key spots around the island: to the hot springs for mudbaths, to the White Beach for swimming and snorkeling, to the Red Beach for snorkeling and photography. All tours feature barbeques on board and also include Greek delicacies like stuffed vine leaves, along with an abundance of drinks, including Santorinian white wine. Whether you’re interested in a formal function or a romantic couple’s cruise, Sunset Oia has a vessel to suit your needs. Imagine being aboard the Alexandros, a Ferretti 680 motor yacht. You’ll feel like royalty as you lounge around the elegantly designed interiors of the stylish sitting area. Soak up the sun on the upper-level deck and then retreat to the lower deck for privacy, relaxing around the four luxurious cabins that include a master bedroom and a VIP bedroom, both fitted with king-size beds and en-suite facilities. Another option for private tours is the Emily, a Cumberland 46 power catamaran with hulls specially designed to offer maximum stability. Ideal for beach and cave exploration, its shallow draft allows it to access hidden gems. It is available for private charter tours around Santorini or visits to nearby islands. The variety of destinations and the sheer quality of the 13-strong fleet has earned the company top ranking in its category according to TripAdvisor, making it a strong international competitor. “The boat was extremely nice, clean and state-of-the-art. We’ve been on other catamaran tours in Grand Cayman and along the coasts of California and Hawaii, and though we loved every one of those tours, this boat was by far the nicest one we’d been on for a touring boat,” writes one happy customer, Loretta E. from Southern California. Fine local wines and refreshments

1. Sunset Anafi sets sail for its morning tour towards Vlychada. 2. Raising a glass of chilled Santorinian wine to the travelers on board the Ammoudi. 3. Eleven of the thirteen vessels that now comprise the still-expanding fleet of Sunset Oia. 4. Breakfast is served on board the luxurious Ferretti 680 motor yacht, the Alexandros. 5. Snorkeling in the deep blue waters of the caldera basin is an unforgettable experience.

The crew draws on its experience to provide interesting information about the island’s history and culture, and is also on hand to respond to all your needs and wants.

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Sunset Ios, the Taiti 80 catamaran, makes a scheduled stop for swimming and snorkeling.

are offered to guests in generous portions for the duration of the tour. The company has received accolades for its cuisine, which includes local delicacies such as grilled shrimp and skewered chicken or pork, along with an array of vegetarian options using the finest local produce. It’s little wonder, then, that a large number of TripAdvisor reviewers refer to the on-board cuisine as a pleasant surprise and the “best” during their stay. “There was plenty of space to spread out, but we also enjoyed chatting with other people on the boat. We jumped in the cool water to get to the hot springs – it’s worth it; don’t worry if you aren’t a strong swimmer, they provide pool noodles. They prepare delicious Greek dinner on board with all the local wine and beer

The Iguana, a Speedboat 35, is ideal for couples and adventurous groups of friends.

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you can drink,” writes Jessica H. from Texas, who describes the five-hour cruise as her husband’s favorite part of the vacation and a “wonderful experience.” Reviewers also praise the crew’s experience and willingness to provide information about the island’s rich history and culture. “They took the time to explain about the coastline and answer random questions about Greek culture, including the compelling story of the hermit who lives at the edge of the volcano,” writes New Yorker Iris H. It’s not just the exquisite facilities and cuisine that make Sunset Oia cruises worthwhile; it’s the tailor-made memories that will last a lifetime, and the feeling of satisfaction that lingers on well after the trip has ended.

Enjoying the sun and a light snack on board the Sunrise, the fleet’s Lagoon 560 catamaran.

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| SUNSET OIA SAILING CRUISE S |

THE FLEET is in

S/Y SUNSET ANAFI Lagoon 450 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNSET DELOS Lagoon 450 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNSET OIA Lagoon 500 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNSET AMORGOS Lagoon 520 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNRISE Lagoon 560 Catamaran SLG

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2016 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 45ft/13.7m Passengers: 14 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2017 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 45ft/13.96m Passengers: 14 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2009 Cruising / Sailing Overall Length: 50ft/15.2m Passengers: 16 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2016 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 52ft/15.8m Passengers: 18 max

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2014 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 56ft/17.1m Passengers: 24 max

Enjoy an all-inclusive semiprivate morning or sunset excursion on this most luxurious Lagoon catamaran. Stops for swimming and snorkeling at the White and Red Beach and hot springs. Towels and snorkeling equipment are included, as well as a full barbeque with unlimited drinks.

Feel like royalty on this brand new luxurious catamaran. The 5-hour tour starts from Ammoudi at 10:00 and from Vlychada at 15:00. Enjoy mudbaths at the hot springs, snorkeling at the White Beach and barbeque on board with delectable Greek delicacies. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

Departs from Ammoudi at 09:45 and from Vlychada at 14:45 for 5-hour morning and sunset tours, which include stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach. On-board barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

Available for 5-hour morning and sunset tours starting from Ammoudi Bay and Vlychada port respectively. Includes stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach. On-board barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

Available for 5-hour morning and sunset tours, starting from Ammoudi Bay and Vlychada port respectively. Includes stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach. On-board barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

S/Y SUNSET IOS Fountaine Pajot Taiti 80 Catamaran SLG

S/Y SUNSET SANTORINI Lagoon 400 Catamaran SLG

M/Y EMILY F. P. Cumberland 46 Power Catamaran

M/Y IGUANA Speedboat 35 Lux Speedboat

M/Y ALEXANDROS Ferretti 680 Motor Yacht

Semi-Private Built: 2015 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 80ft/24.4m Passengers: 55 max

Private Tours Built: 2015 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 40ft/12.2m Passengers: 13 max

Private Tours Built: 2009 Cruising Overall length: 46ft/14m Passengers: 14 max

Luxury Built: 2010 Cruising Overall Length: 35 ft/10.7m Passengers: 4 max

Luxury Built: 2002 Cruising Overall Length: 68ft/21.2m Accommodation: 4 cabins

Î¤he biggest catamaran of Sunset Oiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fleet departs daily for 5-hour morning and sunset tours around the caldera and the beaches on the south of the island. It sails from Athinios Port at 09:30 and again at 14:30. With a comfortable layout and a large space for dancing, the Sunset Ios is also available for wedding parties and other events.

Available for private 5-hour excursions around Santorini, with stops around the caldera, the White and Red beaches and the hot springs. With a full-day tour you have the option of sailing to the crystalclear waters of Ios island. Full barbeque meal, drinks, towels, snorkeling equipment and more amenities are provided.

Two powerful 310 hp engines allow this vessel to cruise at a maximum speed of 20 knots while the hulls are specially designed for maximum stability. Shallow draft allows it to approach hidden island gems safely. Available for private tours around Santorini and nearby islands as well as for multi-day charters. Full barbeque meals, drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included.

Enjoy an exciting adventure in sheer style on a private morning or sunset tour aboard this luxury speedboat. Swim at secluded beaches or enjoy a romantic cruise. With quick and easy adjustments, the exterior space can be transformed into a lounging area. Gourmet snacks, unlimited drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included.

Perfect choice for yachting and private tours. Four luxurious cabins (master bedroom, VIP bedroom with king-size beds and luxurious en-suite facilities), lowerand upper-level decks with high-end amenities make this an ideal choice for luxury excursions and island-hopping. Gourmet snacks, unlimited drinks, towels and snorkeling equipment are included.

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s/y SUNSET milos IPANEMA 58 Catamaran SLG

S/Y AMMOUDI Ocean Voyager 74 Catamaran SLG

Premium Semi-Private Built: 2017 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 58.4 ft/17.8 m Passengers: 24 max

Semi-Private Built: 2011 Cruising / Sailing Overall length: 74ft/22.5m Passengers: 48 max

The tour begins and ends at Ammoudi and includes stops for mudbaths at the hot springs, for swimming at the Red Beach and snorkeling at the White Beach. On-board barbeque with local delicacies and unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment and towels are also provided.

Available for 5-hour morning and sunset tours, starting from Ammoudi. Includes stops for swimming at the hot springs, the White Beach and the Red Beach. On-board barbeque with local delicacies, salads, fruit, unlimited Santorini wine and soft drinks. Snorkeling equipment is also included.

M/Y ALEA Alfa Marine 72 Motor Yacht Luxury Built: 2009 Cruising Overall Length: 74ft/22m Accommodation: 4 cabins With a maximum speed of 40 knots, the Alea connects Santorini with Mykonos and remote islands of the Small Cyclades. It is available for day trips or multi-day cruises. Spacious indoor and outdoor areas for leisure and enjoyment; four luxurious cabins with en-suite bathroom facilities. First-class service, gourmet meals, beverages, towels, snorkeling equipment and other amenities are included.

INFO:

www.sunset-oia.com Tel. (+30) 22860.722.00 Mob. (+30) 698.026.8881 ticket offices:

Oia, Ammoudi reservations@sunset-oia.com

All cruise options include transportation from and to your hotel.

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activitie s

Outside the Box Ta k e t h e o p p o r t u n i t y t o e x p l o r e a l l t h e d i f f e r e n t f a c e t s o f t h E i s l a n d .

s great as it is to just lounge around the infinity pool soaking up the sun and the view until it’s time for cocktails, it’s a shame to miss out on the many activities the island has to offer or on the chance to explore it from a different perspective. The world’s largest underwater caldera may not boast much in the way of fish-watching, but it still has enough attractions to have impressed Jacques Cousteau as he searched – in vain – for the lost city of Atlantis back in 1975. The most popular dive sites are off the 112

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islets of Palia and Nea Kameni (known for their vast lava formations); the cove of Taxiarchis off Nea Kameni, where the submerged wreck of a passenger ship offers itself for exploration and great photo-ops; and the sea near Akrotiri, where you can see the commemorative plaque that Cousteau’s son, Pierre-Yves, placed there to honor his father. Diving conditions around the island are ideal, thanks to the clear, warm waters, while Santorini’s dive centers – certified by the leading international diving authorities – provide

all the equipment and a complete range of programs for all ages. To explore hidden coves, secluded beaches and beautiful volcanic rock formations that nature has sculpted over millennia, get in touch with Sea Kayak. The company arranges pickups and drop-offs at your hotel and offers a selection of tours that have been ranked by TripAdvisor users as one of Santorini’s “must” experiences. Sea kayaking is also a great family activity (when the kids are 8 or above), and the company organizes special tours that

electric-powered mountain bikes that allow you to decide whether you’re going to do all the leg work or let technology take over while you enjoy the scenery on some of the island’s quieter byways. The company offers two tours: a 40k cross-island private tour and a 22k seaside group tour that takes you along ancient wine routes, down to local beaches and through unspoiled traditional villages – the experience has received a Certificate of Excellence from TripAdvisor. There are also less physically demanding options. A graduate of the Leica Academy for Creative Photography in Athens, Konstantina Sidiropoulou will bring you to all the perfect spots for professional-caliber shots that will amaze your friends. Her photo tours can also be tailored to individual specifications. If, on the other hand, you prefer a private, illuminating tour by someone who can answer any question you may have about the island (its history, architecture, winemaking and more), Spiros Thermos, an archaeology graduate and amateur oenologist, is your go-to guy.

Info

include swimming stops, picnic lunches and snorkeling. Fans of the island say that unless you walk its alleys and country backroads, you’ll never truly know it. If you don’t want to go it alone, Nikos Boutsinis of Santorini Walking Tours is your man. He spends his winters designing tours along the island’s best-preserved routes, with stops for cooking classes, wine tastings and visits to archaeological sites, castles and museums, along with a few special spots well and truly off the beaten path. His company also organizes private guided tours, tailor-made to his clients’ own interests. For riding enthusiasts – and incurable romantics – Santorini Horse Riding has designed a series of excursions 114

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that provide not only fresh insights into the island, but also into the noble animals that were once a key mode of transport. The rides start at the company’s stables in the village of Megalochori and take you down uncharted trails, past vineyards, into impressive gorges and along romantic beaches, with optional stops at traditional tavernas and wineries. You can also arrange a private excursion (ideal for couples). Inexperienced riders will be shown all the do’s and don’ts; children must be chaperoned by a parent or guardian. At first sight, the island (with its steep inclines and, in the summer months, its busy roads) may not appear to be particularly bicycle-friendly, but don’t let that discourage you. At Santorini MTB Adventures, you can rent

D i v i n g : Atlantis Oia , Tel. (+30) 22860.711.58, www.atlantisoia.com • Aegean Divers , Aghia Irini, Pyrgos, Tel. (+30) 22860.332.01, www. aegeandivers.com • Santorini Dive Center , Perissa, Tel. (+30) 22860.831.90, www. divecenter.gr • Mediterranean Dive Club , Perissa Beach, Tel. (+30) 22860.830.80, www. divingsantorini.com • Navy’s Waterworld, Kamari Beach, Tel. (+30) 22860.281.90, www.navyswaterworld.gr • Volcano Diving Center , Kamari, Tel. (+30) 22860.331.77, www.scubagreece.com K aya k i n g : Santorini Sea Kayak , www. santoriniseakayak.com, Tel. (+30) 695.180.1051

W a l k i n g : Santorini Walking Tours , www.santoriniwalkingtours.com, Tel. (+30) 6971.603.600, (+30) 22860.364.96

H o r s e r i d i n g : Santorini Horse Riding , www.santorini-horse-riding.com, Tel. (+30) 22860.305.96, (+30) 698.283.0335 B i k i n g : Santorini MTB Adventures , www.santoriniadventures.gr, Tel. (+30) 22860.305.54, (+30) 698.028.9453 P h o t o g r a p h y : Κ-Yellow, www.kyellow.photo T OUR GUIDE : SANTORINI BLUE, Tel. (+30) 6980.124.957, www santoriniblue.com

ΜΑΤΙ ART GALLERY A M E E T I N G P L A ce f o r art l o v er s s i nce 1 9 9 0

One sits on the flat roof, the other two are perched atop two tall poles. For the past 30 years or so, these three figures have sat motionless, looking out over the caldera and attracting the attention of perceptive passersby to the MATI Art Gallery of sculptor Yorgos Kypris. He donated these three watchmen to the island back in 1990, when he inaugurated the gallery, a permanent home for his work, in the same spot where it still stands, right next to the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral. Kypris studied ceramics in Italy, but soon turned his attention to metal, attracted to the material by its robust and dynamic nature. A key source of inspira-

tion in his work is the environment, along with the impact that human activity has on it – behind the icy, smooth surfaces of his work, we see the issues he is trying to raise and the messages he wants to put across. Fish are a recurring motif, yet every so often he enriches his visual vocabulary with other imagery, such as boats, geometric shapes and human forms. The aim of the MATI Art Gallery is to share fine taste and contemporary perceptions about art with an international community of art lovers. The selection of artwork that you will find in the gallery ranges from sculpture and installations to drawings and jewelry. Kypris takes pride in the personalized approach

that he likes to develop with his clients, enabling him to build a rich portfolio of commissioned works for museums and public spaces, private collections and hotels and other commercial buildings, both in Greece and abroad. His passion has also been passed down to his son, Alexandros Kypris, who creates work defined by crisp lines and bold colors, and to his niece, jewelry designer Ariadne Kypri. Visitors can also find selected jewelry items by other contemporary Greek designers such as Yannis Sergakis, Katerina Ioannidis and Calliope Chronopoulou, as well as work in different media by young and up-and-coming artists.

Mitropolis Square, Fira, Tel. (+30) 22860.238.14, www.matiartgallery.com

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SAN TO RI N I

THE bounty OF THE LAND Santorini’s rich culinary scene stems from an age-old tradition of winemaking and farming, supported by the island’s unique volcanic soil. Grape harvest, mid-1930s, by the legendary Greek photographer Nelly’s © Benaki Museum Photographic Archive.

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Authentic Santorini fava plant in bloom, its pods full of fresh, juicy peas.

harvest

The Fava Whisperer Combining 0ld-school, hands-on farming with a 21-century approach, Yiannis Nomikos represents Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agricultural tradition at its best. BY GIORGOS TSIROS

Yiannis Nomikos in his own garden, where visitors can learn all there is to know about Santorini’s food crops.

Know what’s growing here?” Yiannis Nomikos asks me as we set off on a tour of his estate from a spot he loves: a meadow of white-and-purple flowers from the plant that produces the split-pea known in Greek as fava, a delicious pulse renowned in Santorini and a particular favorite of this successful farmer. I answer with the hesitation of a city dweller, and he shakes his head. “You walk the land and live on the land, so you should know,” he says. He tells me about a piece of advice he got from his father, which still helps him produce some of the best products on the island: If you want to grow fava, you have to become fava! “He meant you need to feel as one with the plant, observe how it grows, sense its needs and help it produce.” A drought last year destroyed the crop, but rain has been generous on Santorini this year and the meadows started blooming in March. Yiannis snips off a pod, extracts a tiny fresh pea and gives it to me to taste. It’s juicy, sweet and delicious. Even though the market has become inundated with hybrid varieties,

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he still grows the ancient species, Lathyrus clymenum L, which has thrived in the island’s rocky volcanic soil for the past 3,500 years by trapping the moisture brought in on westerly winds that clear the rim of the caldera. “We sow from late November to early December,” says Yiannis, “starting in the fields near the sea because the climate is more temperate (which helps production), and then heading uphill. The plant grows very slowly for the first five months but then, in the sixth, you can see it shoot up day by day. The old-timers say that the plant grows more in this last month than in the previous five combined. This isn’t one of those new hybrids that stands up straight; the bigger it gets, the more it trails on the ground, which is why reaping needs to be done by hand come May. You have to harvest well before sunrise so that the pods containing the peas retain the nighttime moisture and keep their elasticity and integrity. We thresh in June, then put the fava in barrels and allow it to mature for at least six months until it’s dry enough. It’s best to let it age nat-

After harvesting, the fava is threshed before going into storage.

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“I worked hard to be the first to grow, process, package and distribute my own products. That is the only way to ensure authenticity.”

urally rather than use a dryer – having the patience so that the fava acquires that golden-yellow color and strong flavor. We start grinding as soon as January arrives.” There’s the famous Santorini of tourism, the up-and-coming Santorini of wine and the overlooked, heroic and romantic Santorini of agriculture, a determined community of people fighting against the odds to keep their land and pass down age-old wisdom and skills to the next generation. Yiannis Nomikos represents this last group. Born into a poor farming family, he managed, thanks to his parents’ sacrifices, to attend the School of Industrial Studies in Piraeus. In 2000, he decided to come back home and become a farmer, too – but not the kind who sits in the café all day as hired hands do the work. From cultivation and processing to packaging and marketing, everything goes through him first on the farm, which itself has evolved into an integrated production unit that produces and sells its products in Santorini and beyond. “Packaging,” he says, “is the only way to ensure the authenticity of a Santorinian product, which is why I worked hard to be the first to produce, process,

Fava is also the name of the delicious thick paste dish made from the dried peas and served everywhere on the island.

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pistachios on the tree...

sun-dried goodness

cherry tomatoes

package and distribute, having complete traceability from start to finish.” If you’d like to discover a different side of Santorini from that which is usually presented to tourists, a visit to the Yiannis Nomikos Estate is amply rewarding. Not only can you purchase, directly from the source, pure products such as extra virgin olive oil made from Koroneiki olives and wild olives, or sun-dried Santorini tomatoes, or capers, or pistachios, salted or plain, that have been dried naturally in the sun, but you can also learn a lot about the island’s food plants. For instance, did you know that caper seeds are sown by ants, or that the original white eggplant is armed with small barbs, or that male pistachio trees need to be planted so

they can pollinate the females via the wind because their blossoms are not attractive enough to lure bees? Were you aware that the seeds of this arid island’s tomatoes need to be placed at the rim of the furrow so they don’t harden? What about how to distinguish female from male broad beans? These are just some of the many wonderful secrets about nature, held by an ever-dwindling number of the island’s residents. “Being a farmer is not just about growing something and having a crop; it’s a philosophy,” says Yiannis. “When I’m in my fields, I feel so much freedom. I am also humbled because I depend on nature and witness its force every day.” Yiannis believes in the potential of agritourism and hopes that his young-

est daughter will follow in his footsteps in the business. “You can sell sun, sea and views, but I think Santorini’s visitors need to see how our fava, olive oil and nuts are produced, too. We don’t have anything to do with luxury tourism or the logic of swimming pools or spas. Nature and its products: that’s our identity. There’s a saying here that your field should be as big as the eye can see and your home just big enough to live in. I love talking to real Santorinians who wake up early in the morning to look for signs about the coming weather because their crops depend on it. This Santorini is fading away. Sometimes we locals feel out of place on our own island. Our lives and our home are both changing so fast…”

Info Y i a n n i s N o m i k o s E s tat e – S a n t o r i n i E a r t h G o o d s : Vothonas, Tel. (+30) 2286.031.016 - (+30) 697.223.2743, www.madeinsantorini.gr

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...and in the bowl

advertorial

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grape

An HISTORICAL WINELAND Blessed with very old vines and a winemaking tradition that goes back thousands of years, Santorini holds a special place in the wine world. BY N ATA S H A B L AT S I O U

lready world-famous for its caldera views and sunsets, its architecture, local products and cuisine, amazing hotels and still-beating volcanic heart, Santorini has also built a strong brand name in the international wine market. Unharmed by the phylloxera louse, the island’s aged vines, some as old as 400 years, are trained in the shape of a basket (called a kouloura) to protect them from strong winds and preserve precious humidity. They produce four classic grape varieties: the whites Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani, and the red Mandilaria. Santorini is also an exemplary oenotourism destination, with wineries that offer everything from tailor-made experiences to group tours and tastings. To tell the island’s wine tale, we have selected excerpts from the seminal publication “Santorini: An Historical Wineland” by Stavroula Kourakou-Dragona aka “The Lady of the Vines,” a chemist-oenologist who has championed Greek wine for over six decades and shaped the foundations of its modern era. 126

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In the summertime, most of Santorini’s grapes ripen inside their “baskets,” protected from the wind and blowing sand.

The canava at Hatzidakis Winery.

“I advise all who visit Santorini to go up Profitis Ilias Mountain, particularly in the season when the vines are verdant, in order to enjoy this unique spectacle that delights the eyes and the soul,” wrote Abbe Pegues, prior of the Lazarist monastery in Santorini, who lived on the island for many years in the early 19th century. “From the peak of this mountain in the south of Santorini, which is the island’s highest point, one’s gaze falls enchanted over a seemingly enormous expanse of vines, covering almost the entire isle, and roams over three delightful plains, bounded by smooth hillsides or blocked by steep mountains, half cultivated, half fallow ... In summer they compose a splendid picture, as the green of the vines creates a pleasing contrast with the yellow of the scattered fields of ripened grain ... Santorini offers an astonishing array of contrasts: there are the mountains, volcanic and rugged, half arable and half fiery rocks, some beautiful and 128

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Not only have pieces of charcoal from vine wood been found in the excavations at Akrotiri, but also grape seeds, dispersed among the ruins of the settlement.

others terrible; there are the deep ravines that break up the plains and the fertile slopes, those densely planted with vines; there is the proximity of the sea, which embraces the island from every side, as if it were a huge plain ... This, after so many major disasters, is the enthralling spectacle offered by the remnants of mutilated ancient Kalliste. From these we can easily imagine how beautiful the island was as a single whole, before the disasters that shattered it and rent it apart from all sides.” The disasters Abbe Pegues mentioned were caused by the volcanic

eruption of the late 17th c. BC that buried the thriving prehistoric city of Akrotiri and created the caldera. In this prehistoric phase of the island, there are many indications of vine-growing and winemaking. As we learn from Christos Doumas, excavator of Akrotiri, “not only have pieces of charcoal from vine wood been found in the excavations at Akrotiri, but also grape seeds, dispersed among the ruins of the settlement.” Moreover, bunches of grapes feature as decorative motifs in the vase-painting of the period. Evidence of winemaking and wine trading

THE GREAT GRAPE ASSYRTIKO

The dominant cultivar on the island accounts for about 75 percent of the total terroir. It’s considered among the choicest white grape varieties in the entire viticultural population, because its important range of chemical composition allows the production of high-quality wines of various types (fresh, high-grade aged, sweet, semisweet, sparkling and even wines that mature under a film of saccharomycetes) depending on the stage of maturity at which the grapes will be harvested. But where did this blessed grape variety originate? Who brought the first cuttings of this plant, which has adapted so well to this difficult ecological environment and produces such high-quality wines with a special and distinctive character in terms of taste and aroma? No source has given an answer. However critical these questions are for historians, one thing is certain: Assyrtiko has been enlivening the island’s volcanic earth with its greenery for hundreds of years. Thanks to Assyrtiko, the most remarkable white grape variety in the whole of the Mediterranean basin, the Santorinians down the centuries have been able to keep their island’s winemaking tradition alive. GREEC GER E ISE C ISN T R INNEI 2 0 1 7 • ES A • OWI

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Grapes are spread out in the sun to dry. The white grapes will be used to make Vinsanto, the island’s traditional sweet wine.

are certain kinds of storage jars (pithoi) with a spigot near the bottom of their narrow base. Some three centuries after the volcanic disaster, the island was resettled. Wherever the new inhabitants came from, they had to survive on a treeless, waterless and wind-swept land with very little rainfall and hard compact soil that, when it was dug, became like sand and was whipped up in swirls by the winds, as in the desert. In all eras, the residents of Santorini have been forced by nature to find solutions in order to cope with their needs; to respond to the elements in a unique way, because 130

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the conditions they had to deal with were unique. So, they cultivated those plants that could survive in arid and hot conditions, including, of course, vines. They arranged whole hillsides in stepped terraces, building dry-stone walls with black-lava cobbles, which in summertime are crowned with the green shoots of the vine. This contrast of volcanic gloom and Dionysiac hope is a trademark of the island. In the Santorini ecosystem, no extraneous agent intervenes between plant and soil, as is the case in regions blighted by phylloxera, where the vineyards were destroyed by this pest and replanted with resistant American rootstock grafted with local cultivars. As the vineyards here remained uninfected, the vines sink their roots directly into the soil, which enables the renewal of old vines through the use of layings or cuttings, just as was done in antiquity. Very few vineyards around

the world can boast such credentials. The fact that phylloxera did not appear on Santorini is due to its soil. Sandy soils in general prevent the development of the phylloxera insect; and the soils of the island’s vineyards are sandy with a very low clay content. Visitors to Santorini in early spring, before the vines have awoken, or in late autumn, when their leaves have fallen, are struck by the “baskets” they see scattered over the bare earth, deeply rooted in the soil. They are the ampelies, products of the patient toil and long experience of the island’s vinegrowers. In summer, the baskets are luxuriant green, as the annual shoots of the ampelies grow upwards. Within their embrace, inside each basket, the grapes ripen, protected from the blasts of sand borne by the strong Etesian winds, which would blind the buds before bud-break and harm the fully ripened, fine-skinned berries.

Santorini entered the 21st century with modern wine legislation, stateof-the-art wineries, an organized trade in bottled wine and the prospect of intensifying viticulture on a scientific basis.

Superior quality wine Considerable information on the vines and the pre-industrial wines of Santorini can be found in foreign travel literature dating from the 17th to the 19th century. Back then, the grapes were stomped by foot in canaves, as the traditional cave cellars are called; the wine was stored in wooden barrels and transported in sheepskin bags by pack animals. A milestone for wine production came in 1971, when the toponym of Santorini was recognized as a Protected Appellation of Origin for white wines made in a way defined by law, mainly with Assyrtiko. From that point on, modern wineries were constructed and existing canaves were upgraded with appropriate technology. Thus, Santorini entered the 21st century with modern wine legislation, state-of-the-art wineries, an organized trade in bottled wine and the prospect of intensifying viticulture on a scientific basis. Preindustrial winemaking on Santorini now belongs unequivocally to the sphere of tradition.

FROM THE BOOK: “Santorini: An Historical Wineland” (Foinikas Publications 2015), authored by Stavroula Kourakou-Dragona, widely considered the savior of Greek varieties.

THE HOLY WINE VINSANTO Don’t let the deep amber color fool you – Vinsanto is made from the same blend of white varietals (Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani) that produce the dry white Santorini PDO wines. It’s just that the grapes are harvested very ripe, and then spread under the hot sun for about 15 days. Then, the must is fermented and aged in oak barrels for a minimum of two years. In some cases, the aging can last 30 years! What makes Vinsanto unique is the interplay between acidity and sweetness. A dessert wine, served cool at around 10-12°C, it accompanies blue and yellow cheeses, nuts, sweets with fruit, or chocolate. It has been produced on the island since the 16th century. As for its name, there are two theories: that it is a composite of the words vino santo, meaning “holy wine,” or is derived from the phrase vino di Santorini, meaning “wine of Santorini.” Whichever explanation is right, it doesn’t change the fact that Vinsanto remains highly sought after in the world market. - Ta s s o u l a E p ta k i l i

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Assyrtiko’s Astonishing Rise The efforts of Santorini’s vintners to showcase this endemic variety are being rewarded by the international wine world.

BY YIANNIS PAR ASK E VOPOULOS *

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here have been many exciting moments during my 28-year career in the service of Greek wine, but two in particular stand out as really exhilarating, and both feature Santorini’s Assyrtiko variety. The second and most recent of these took place just a couple of years ago, when Jancis Robinson presented her new book, “Wine Grapes,” on the Daily Meal website. For those not in the know, Master of Wine Jancis Robinson is widely regarded as the preeminent authority today on all matters related to vine and wine. To put it simply, when the British expert speaks, we, the people of the wine world, sit up and listen. In the book, Robinson provides an indepth description of no less than 1,368 wine grapes, ranging from widely popular varieties to several that are almost universally unknown. Towards the end of her presentation, she was asked to single out one variety from the 1,368. Just one. Hearing the question and being familiar with the idiosyncrasies of British reserve, I expected Robinson to be evasive, diplomatic. How wrong I was! She didn’t hesitate for an instant, naming a variety, which, in her own words, “makes the most stunning white wine” – Santorini’s Assyrtiko. Readers without a profound knowledge of the world of wine may not appreciate the gravity of this statement. To a soccer fan, it would be like hearing Pep Guardiola say that Greece will win the World Cup. My first exhilarating experience was a few years earlier, at the change of the millennium. I was at the home of Stavroula Kourakou-Dragona, the doyenne of Greek wine and savior of the Greek vineyard, together with about a dozen oenologists. We opened a bottle of Assyrtiko from 1847. Imagine our astonishment when we realized that what we had before us was in fact a “new” wine that was 153 years old. And at that precise moment, we became aware that we were dealing with a variety like no other, a variety that was almost completely unknown, begging for attention and a new approach. Let us go back about a third of a century. It is 1986-87 and vintner Yiannis Boutaris discovers both the potential of Santorini as a vine-growing region and its endemic Assyrtiko variety. He immediately embarks on the construction of a state-of-the-art winery and strives to convince us of something he has only just realized, namely that Santori-

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ni’s Assyrtiko is an amazing grape capable of yielding excellent wines. At the time, of course, we could only trust in Boutaris’ intuition, as the wines being produced by the island’s smattering of wineries were, by current standards, anything but great. A great deal has changed since then. A handful of oenologists and vintners threw themselves into the task of producing and promoting Assyrtiko on the international stage, ultimately leading to Jancis Robinson’s astonishing statement. In the early 1990s, the efforts of winemakers on Santorini, myself included, were focused on applying established state-of-the-art techniques. More recently, we have gone on to fine-tune these techniques to develop the individual personality – style, if you will – of each of Santorini’s wineries. On the cultivation front, our interventions for Assyrtiko were minimal, and there is good reason for this. In contrast to other wine-growing regions in Greece, where evolving cultivation methods was the key to improving quality, on Santorini the methods were more or less predetermined centuries before, leaving little room for maneuvering. In effect, all we had to do was respect the age-old system of Assyrtiko cultivation. And that’s exactly what we did. Nowhere else in the world do we come across the rare combination of vine, earth and climate that is present on Santorini, a combination that includes volcanic, mineral-rich soil, a climate profile that is essentially arid (forcing the vine to send its roots deep into the earth to find life-giving water), and a white variety – Assyrtiko – that is so perfectly adapted to such extreme conditions of survival. To this, we must also add a singular cultivation technique that the island’s vine growers have been developing for centuries. It is a painstaking system that results in vines that look more like works of sculpture than products of nature (visitors will often walk right past one without knowing what it is), yet it is also one which allows the vines to emerge victorious from the incessant battle against the strong winds and the searing sun.

The rare wines that emerge from Santorini’s volcanic soil are much like the island’s people: voluptuous and over-the-top in manner, with a character you either dislike instantly or adore forever.

The result of this combination is a veritable living monument of global cultural heritage, the world’s oldest self-rooted vineyards with a root system that can be traced back four centuries and which yield impressive dry whites and the amazing sweet Vinsanto. Today, Assyrtiko is grown in nearly every corner of Greece, and I’m confident that we will soon find it throughout the vine-growing world (it’s already present in Australia). Outside Santorini, it yields lovely, aromatic and refreshing whites that appeal even to the uninitiated palate. This, however, is not the case in Assyrtiko’s birthplace. The rare wines that emerge from Santorini’s volcanic soil are much like the island’s people: voluptuous and over-the-top in manner, with a character which you either dislike instantly or adore forever. Wines that are whites but have the attitude of a red. Wines that are rich in flavor with sharp and unexpected acidity levels, and a long, briny finish – qualities that allow myriad bold combinations with Greek and international cuisines. Wines that challenge all stereotypes. These are the ultimate food wines. They may be difficult, even hostile at times, but they are also wonderful, rare and, often, majestic. If you think you know Santorini’s Assyrtiko, think again.

* Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, PhD in Oenology from the University of Bordeaux II,

is the cofounder of Gaia Wines.

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OENOTOURISM

Visiting the Source B Y Mar i a K o rac h a i

ESTATE ARGYROs Established in 1903, this awardwinning winery has just moved to an impressive contemporary building in the middle of its privately owned, 40-hectare vineyard, which is the largest on the island. For the first time, visitors will be able to tour all of the production areas before stopping in at the wine-tasting room. Make sure to try their top 20-year-old Vinsanto wine, which earned a

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rating of 97/100 from leading wine critic Robert Parker, and check out their boutique, selling not only wine and souvenirs but also a delicious Vinsanto-infused chocolate bar. • Episkopi Gonias, Tel. 22860.314.89, www.estate-argyros.com; tours and tastings daily 10:00-20:00.

Art Space Winemaker Antonis Argyros has restored his ancestors’ canava,

a traditional wine cellar built in 1861, to host a cultural venue located right next to his winery. The structure that once served as the barn, meanwhile, is now used to process the grapes harvested from his 1.3 hectare vineyard, to produce a limited number (around 10,000) of bottles per year of the estate’s five wines. Definitely try the Vinsanto and a few of the excellent spirits produced here, such as the tsipouro and the co-

gnac.The gallery hosts exhibitions by contemporary visual artists, painters and potters; entrance is free of charge. • Exo Gonia, Tel. 22860.327.74, 6932.899.509, www.artspace-santorini. com.

CANAVA AVANTIS In the white vaulted canava, dating to 1864, you can explore the island’s winemaking history through a display of rare arti-

facts, including an 18th century press, rock-hewn fermentation tanks and afoures (large barrels). Afoura is also the name of one of the estate’s most distinctive wines; it is made from 100% Assyrtiko grape, aged for six months in the barrel which gives it an oaky character and aromas of honeycomb and vanilla. Messaria, Tel. 22860.302.42, 6946.124.890, www.avantisestate.gr; open Apr-Oct,11:00-19:00, except

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Sundays; tours and tasting from €6 PP..

BOUTARI One of the first wineries in Greece to offer organized tours, this one still impresses with its architecture. Visitors learn the history of local viticulture, winemaking methods and the varieties. Tasting wines from all six Boutari wineries located in key viticultural areas across the country offers a comprehensive overview of

Greek wines. Discerning wine lovers can also enjoy aged wines such as the12-year-old Vinsanto, available exclusively here. There is also a shop selling wine, books and other items. Megalochori, Tel. 22860.810.11, 22860.816.07, www.boutari.gr; open May-Sep, Dec-Feb10:00-19:00, April & Oct 10:00-18:00, Mar & Nov 10:0016:00; tour and tasting of four wines, accompanied by cheeses €12 PP; customized tours and out-of-season

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visits by appointment.

GAIA WINES For Assyrtiko lovers, this early 20th-century former tomato processing plant is not to be missed. Today, one can taste four wines produced using four different methods, all made entirely from the famous Santorini variety. The big surprise is the limited edition Thalassitis Submerged, a wine aged for five years at the bottom

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CANAVA ROUSSOS

of the sea. You can also taste wines produced in their second winery, in Nemea, Peloponnese.

The winery also offers cooking lessons for groups of 6-8 persons, starting at €50 PP.

Exo Gonia, Tel. 22860.341.86, www. gaia-wines.gr; open Apr-Oct 11:0019:00; tours and tastings €6-12 PP, food extra. Headquarters: 22 Themistokleous, Maroussi, Athens, Tel. (+30) 210.8055.642-3.

• Exo Gonia, Tel. 22860.333.95, www. artemiskaramolegos-winery.com; open daily, 11:00-20:00 (Apr-Oct), 11:0017:00 (Nov-Mar); tours are free; wine tasting from €8 PP, food extra.

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GAVALAS WINERY Father and son Giorgos and Vangelis Gavalas are fourth- and fifth- generation winemakers who produce Vinsanto by stomping the grapes the old way. This process is part of a major celebration in late August, in which the public is invited to take part. In the charming production areas, you will see a number of antique items, such a grape press and wicker baskets, while the wine tasting offers a number of rare indigenous varieties, including the white Katsano and the rosé Voudomato, in addition to a six-year-old Vinsanto.

VENETSANOS

• Megalochori, Tel. 22860.825.52, www.gavalaswines.gr; open daily AprilOct 10:00-18:00, Nov - 10 Mar 10:0016:00; tours are free; wine tastings from €1.50 to €3.

HATZIDAKIS WINERY Haridimos Hatzidakis’ winery, now in its 20th year of operation, has recently moved to new facilities. The wines, made from native varieties, are fermented and aged in two underground vaults where temperatures remain stable all year-round. Following your comprehensive tour of the winery, you will once again emerge above ground for a stroll around the plateau with its organic vineyards and marvelous view. VASSALTIS DOMAINE SIGALAS

• Pyrgos, Tel. 22860.324.66/325.52, www.hatzidakiswines.gr; open daily May-Oct, 10.00-18.00; tours and tastings start at €7 PP.

Following a tour of the modern facilities, stop at the flower-bedecked terrace overlooking the plain and the sea to sample some of the award-winning wines produced by passionate winemaker Artemis Karamolegos. The adjacent “Aroma Avlis” restaurant serves exquisite local dishes, and a sommelier will help you with wine pairing. Don’t miss sampling the Pyritis, made with 100 percent Assyrtiko grapes left to age on the lees for 10 months. 136

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KOUTSOYANNOPOULOS WINE MUSEUM In a labyrinth carved out of rock eight meters underground, one can learn about vine cultivation since the 17th century through the display of rare items, including manual and electric machinery and photographs of wine-related occupations which have long disappeared. The winery, founded in 1870, cultivates all local varieties. A highlight of the tasting is the limited 10-year-old red Kamaritis, not available on the market. • Vothonas (on the road leading to Kamari Beach), Tel. 22860.313.22, www.santoriniwinemuseum.com; open daily Νov-Mar 9:00-17:00, Apr-Oct 9:00-18:00; tours and wine tasting at €9.50 PP.

CANAVA ROUSSOS A member of the Roussos family will give you a tour of one of the oldest wineries on the island, housed in a canava dating back to 1800. A hand-powered, 300-year-old grape press and a 90-year-old vine are just two of the impressive exhibits you will see. There is also plenty to learn about cultivation methods, natural winemaking and the maturing of indigenous varieties. In the winery’s lovely garden you can taste wines aged up to 17 years and, if you happen to be around at the end of August, you can even help crush the grapes in what is essentially an annual celebration. • Nea Gonia, Episkopi, Tel. 22860.312.78, www.canavaroussos.gr; open daily 11:00-19:00; tours are free, wine tasting starts at €2 PP.

DOMAINE SIGALAS In 1997, Paris Sigalas planted Santorini’s first experimental linear vineyard on the plain of Oia, saving the now-famous Mavrotragano variety from extinction. A private tour is highly recommended, as you can learn about the history of the winery while tasting seasonal dishes with vegetables from the estate’s own garden, ideally paired with wines: dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) are

made with Aidani vine leaves and served with Aidani. That being said, the estate’s highlight is the 100 percent Assyrtiko Nychteri. •

OENOTOURISM

BOUTARI

Baxes, Oia, Tel. 22860.716.44,

www.sigalas-wine.com; open MonFri 10:00-20:30, weekends 11:0020:30; 12-variety wine tasting €25 PP, private tour including food €90 PP by appointment.

VASSALTIs The newest, state-of-the-art winery on Santorini takes its name from the black basalt of the island and offers two tour options for visitors. The short tour is 30 minutes, costs €20 per person and concludes in the wine-tasting room where three to six wines are available for sampling, accompanied by a plate of cold cuts. The extended tour lasts an hour and includes a look at the production areas (€40 per person). From 13:00 to 16:00, visitors will be treated to a light lunch of salmon tartare, seafood ceviche and other selections (at an extra charge). On a clear day, you can see as far as the islands of Ios and Amorgos. •

ARTEMIS KARAMOLEGOS WINERY

GAVALAS WINERY

Vourvoulos, Tel. 22860.222.11, www.

vassaltis.com; open daily 11:00-20:00 for tours and wine tasting (groups by appointment only).

VENETSANOs

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Caldera, Megalochori, Santorini, Tel.

22860.211.00, www.venetsanoswinery. com; open daily, 10:00-20:00; tours and tastings together €13 PP; à la carte menu of cold dishes for an extra charge.

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GAIA WINES

Built almost vertically on the slopes of the caldera, where gravity makes production easier, the first industrial winery in Santorini (it opened in 1949) is impressive for both the view it offers and its architecture. Nowadays, it boasts state-of-the-art facilities, while the older building has been renovated to serve as a museum and wine-tasting area. You will get a look at fascinating exhibits, such as the first diesel generator that arrived on the island in the 1950s and the laboratory where Giorgos Venetsanos, a widely knowledgeable wine pioneer, conducted his early experiments. In the summer months, enjoy a wine cocktail outside on the terrace.

OENOTOURISM

ΤRAVEL, TASTE, DISCOVER Choose from a range of exciting options to learn the history, explore the unique terroir and, of course, taste the wines made from the local varieties. Note that wineries are generally open to the public from April through October – it’s advisable to make a call beforehand.

S antorini W ine T rails Emporio • Tel. (+30) 22860.831.03, (+30) 697.900.0568 • www. santoriniwinetrails.gr The itineraries offered by Iliana Sidiropoulou are more gastronomically oriented and may include cooking and pairing lessons. They usually last about 4 hours. Cost is €100-150 per person, in groups of up to six but also individuals. Languages: English, French.

S antorini W ine A dventure Messaria • Tel. (+30) 22860.341.23 • www. winetoursantorini.com Gastronomy, wine and culture are the main focuses of the tours. You will need either a half or a full day for the trip and all that it includes. Each tour takes in up to three wineries. Cost is €100-150 per person, in groups of up to eight. Individual packages available. Language: English.

1. SANTOWINES

S antorini W ine T our

2. VENETSANOS WINERY

Messaria • Tel. (+30) 22860.283.58, (+30) 693.708.4958 • www. santoriniwinetour.com Seven different food and wine experiences are available, with tours and cooking classes as well, depending on the option that best suits you. Each tour may last up to five hours. Cost is €100-150 PP in groups of up to 10, but also available for individuals. Language: English.

4. GAVALAS WINES 3. BOUTARI SANTORINI WINERY 5. HATZIDAKIS WINERY 6. ESTATE ARGYROS 7. CANAVA ROUSSOS 8. ART SPACE 9. ARTEMIS KARAMOLEGOS WINERY 10. KOUTSOYANNOPOULOS WINERY 11. GAIA WINES 12. CANAVA ARGYROS AVANTIS 13. VASSALTIS VINEYARDS 14. DOMAINE SIGALAS

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advertorial

Your Number One Tasting Experience Canava Roussos, the oldest winery on Santorini, was founded in 1836 to produce high-quality aged wines expressing the distinctive characteristics of the numerous varieties of Theran grapes. Our experience, passed from generation to generation, ensures that the island’s art of winemaking is continued with consistency and absolute respect. Born of the volcano, Santorini, at once welcoming yet still awe-inspiring, has for centuries been a unique eco-system. Today, Canava Roussos’ sixth generation of owners, faithfully adhering to the island’s traditions but still valuing modern technology, chooses the best grapes from the island’s varieties (Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani, Mandilaria and Mavrathiro) and produces wines with individual tastes and bouquets. Our journey continues with tradition and quality as our guiding compass. For the last thirty years, during the summer season (April - October), the Roussos family and staff have been receiving visitors every day at the Canava Roussos Winery at

•

Episkopi – Mesa Gonia, guiding them around the facility, offering them a chance to stroll among the wine barrels and tempting them with the best flavors from Santorini. You can contact the winery to arrange a guided tour that includes a taste of some of the island’s specialties and wine samplings from several different newer and older vintages of Vinsanto Roussos, Santorini Roussos, Nykteri Roussos, Rivari Roussos, Caldera Roussos, Athiri Roussos, Mavrathiro Roussos and Nama Roussos. Canava Roussos, a genuinely local venue, takes you back in time to authentic tastes. Our menu features long-standing Santorini recipes that use the purest local produce. We aspire to becoming your number one tasting experience on Santorini. We also invite you to enjoy one or more of our special “Santorini Evenings,” each dedicated to a more extensive sampling of our wines paired with selected dishes. A final note: we often host theater performances, concerts and exhibitions. Check out our FB page for upcoming events.

www.canavaroussos.gr • Tel: (+30) 22860.312.78 • Email : info@canavaroussos.gr

OENOTOURISM

70 Years of Santo Wines In 1947, a small group of Santorini producers decided to join forces and pursue their common goals; thus was born Santo Wines, a cooperative that continues to thrive and to demonstrate the power of unity and an outward-looking approach. Today, Santo Wines has 1,300 active members. The purchase of the annual harvests of these viticulturists and farmers is guaranteed by the cooperative, thus ensuring that both their efforts and their crops do not go to waste. Santo Wines runs a winery in Pyrgos, as well as the only tomato processing and canning factory on the island. A number of other local agricultural products are also processed and packaged by the cooperative and sold under the label Santo.

Among the choices in their notable inventory of award-winning wines, the most popular are Santorini Assyrtiko and Santorini Nykteri, while this year Santo Sparkling Rosé, made from the Mandilaria and Assyrtiko varieties, has been added to the range. Of their tomato-based products, the most famous, thanks to its incomparable flavor, is the triple-concentrated tomato purée made from 100% super-ripe, unwatered cherry tomatoes. Overall, 25% of Santo’s total production is exported to the US, Canada, central Europe and Australia. It is estimated that in 2017, the winery will receive more than 400,000 visitors. This is perhaps to be expected given that, on the Sunset Terrace located

over the caldera, one can enjoy a glass of wine while taking in a spectacular sunset and view. A tasting session featuring up to 18 wines is recommended. Whether you opt for the full experience or just a single glass, you can accompany your wine with one of the eight dishes, cooked with local ingredients. At the on-site store, you can find all of Santo’s products, including their exceptional fava (complete with cooking instructions), cans of tomato purée, pickled wild capers and various ready-to-eat dips. The shop also offers an eclectic mix of top-quality goods from other parts of Greece such as honey, spoon sweets, nuts and olive oil, all from small producers. - NENA DIMITRIOU

Info: Pyrgos • Tel. (+30) 22860.280.58 • www.santowines.gr • Tastings from €19.

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bottoms up

Beyond Wine F i l l y o u r g l a ss e s w i t h e x c e p t i o n a l l o c a l b e e r s a n d s p i r i t s

Paris Sigalas, the innovative winemaker of Domaine Sigalas, makes use of the pomace (the solid residue left over after Assyrtiko and Mavrotragano grapes have been pressed), as well as the prickly pears that grow on the island’s rocky slopes, to make two delicious types of tsipouro. The twice-distilled spirits are strong (with an alcohol content of 40%) and full-bodied, with aromatic notes of herbs. This year, Sigalas will also offer an aged tsipouro that has been matured for two years in barrels that once held Vinsanto wine. The distillery Canava Santorini, run by the Lignos family, was founded in 1974; it is famed for its ouzo with characteristic aromas of Assyrtiko grapes, saffron and anise. Equally special is the tsikoudia that the distillery produces under the label Santino, from pomace of Assyrtiko (80%), Aidani and Athiri grapes. This premium spirit is slowly distilled four times in a handmade copper still, according to traditional methods. Worth visiting is Canava Santorini’s new museum space where you can see rare tools and family heirlooms, an original distillery from 1885, a wine

press from 1700 and a reconstruction of a 19th century village square. Beer lovers should make sure they try a Donkey – a locally produced beer that comes in three varieties: Yellow, Red and Crazy (Pale Ale). The Donkey brewery on Santorini was created in 2011 by a diverse group of entrepreneurs: Majda from the US, Slobodan from Serbia, Steve from the UK and Yannis from Greece. This year, the brewery will produce over 300,000 bottles, to be sold at 150 locations on the island or exported to the US, Australia, Switzerland, the UK and Japan. Visits to the brewery itself, located in Mesa Gonia, can be arranged upon request. Volkan beers, made with local honey, essential oils of citron from Naxos and water filtered through volcanic rock, have a Santorinian soul and a Cycladic temperament. The Volkan range includes a blond pilsner, a dark wheat lager, Volkan Grey with essences of citron and bergamot and Volkan White, a wheat lager with notes of citrus. The beers make ideal accompaniments to local dishes and are served at many of the island’s restaurants and tavernas.

Info D o m a i n e S i g a l a s : Baxes, Οία, Tel. (+30) 22860.716.44, www.sigalas-wine.com • C a n a v a S a n t o r i n i : Mesaria, Tel. (+30) 22860 31573, www.canavasantorini. com • S a n t o r i n i B r e w i n g C o m p a n y: Mesi Gonia, Tel. (+30) 22860.302.68 • V o l k a n : Fira, Tel. (+30) 211.41.11.072

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E AT & DRINK

Gastronomic Heights Santorini’s restaurant scene is among the most sophisticated in the Cyclades, offering everything from shining examples of haute cuisine to classic recipes of the local culinary tradition.

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BY Nena DImItriou

The Selene chefs, Alex Tsiotinis and Panos Tsikas.

INDEX

International dialing code for Greece: (+30) • Price (per person, exc. wine): € less than €20; €€ less than €50; €€€ over €50 • H: Hotel restaurant, reservations required •

G R E E C E IS

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MICRASIA

FIRA - FIROSTEFANI Assyrtico Breakfast and brunch, lunch and dinner – all Mediterranean-inspired – served in a quiet yard, right next to the Metropolitan Cathedral. A great lunchtime dish is fried zucchini balls with a glass of wine, or a Greek take on cheesecake, made with paximadi (barley rusks), katiki (a soft, yogurt-like cheese) and tomato jam. The wine selection is impressive, featuring more than 100 labels and many by-theglass options. •

€-€€, Tel. 22860.224.63

• www.assyrtico-restaurant.com

Character Serves up a perfect volcano view and Italian-Mediterranean dishes some made with organic ingredients. Try the squid-ink tagliolini with langoustine, accompanied by a Santorini wine. The cocktails are also interesting. Open in the morning as well. • •

€€, Tel. 22860.218.16 www.character.gr

Idol Its rooftop and panoramic view put it among other all-day bar-restaurants on the caldera,

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but its cuisine is what makes it stand apart. Fava spilt-pea dip, tomato fritters, octopus and other local recipes marry the essence of cooking with well-developed ideas and an impressive presentation. Try the rabbit mince dip, an original Italian-Greek inspired blend of stifado stew and bolognese. The desserts – such as the lemon, a concoction of white chocolate with yuzu and bitter lemon cream shaped to look like a freshly plucked lemon – are simply gorgeous. The wine list features more than 200 wines from Santorini and other parts of Greece. •

€€, Tel. 22860.232.92

•

www.idolsantorini.gr

Koukoumavlos This is an all-time classic for romantic dinners in the retro dining room of an old mansion. One of Santorini’s first gourmet restaurants, Koukoumvalos is here to remind us how intense flavor contrasts can coexist harmoniously on the same plate and how a dessert can be made to look like a piece of art. More than 150 Greek wine selections are available. •

€€€, Tel. 22860.238.07

•

www.koukoumavlos.com

Mylos The décor may not scream Santorini, but the food shows the same creative spirit that has shaped the island’s gastronomic scene. Talented chef Adam Kontovas goes down to the port every morning to take delivery of fresh fish and eclectic ingredients, such as blue lobsters from Brittany. The menu is designed according to the seasonality and availability of products and the flavors are clean and crisp. Stars include the Niçoise bonito in a broth made from the same fish, while the Santorini vine dessert is a beautiful creation of thin biscuit and Vinsanto sorbet shaped to look like a grape vine basket. There’s also an eightcourse degustation menu with wine pairing. • •

€€€, Tel. 22860.256.40 www.mylossantorini.com

Yalos Gastronomy by the Sea Just a five-minute drive from Fira, this is a cozy beach bar with a retro look and large wooden barrels that serve as stands where you can have all sorts of delightful nibbles right by the sea. It opens in the morning with coffee and breakfast and closes late at

night, presenting a menu that suits a variety of different tastes. Anna, a local cook, is responsible for the traditional Santorinian dishes, while there’s a second chef who prepares Mediterranean and international favorites. The cocktail and wine lists are quite extensive. • •

€€, Tel. 22860.258.16 www.yalos-santorini.com

IMEROVIGLI Axinos Luxurious in an understated manner, Rocabella stands out from most of the island’s hotels. Its restaurant, Axinos, follows lead with simple, well-executed dishes inspired by traditional Greek cuisine, such as sea bream served with a garlic sauce and a beetroot salad. Try also their generous Greek salad with a modern twist. The desserts are light and show eastern influences, and the ice cream is handmade. The list of 60-plus wines includes local, Greek and international selections. We recommend a pre-dinner cocktail at one of the pool bars with a caldera view. •

Η, €€, Tel. 22860.237.11

•

www.rocabella-hotel-santorini.com

SANTORO

AXINOS

ANTHOS

BLACK ROCK

G R E E C E IS

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Buddha Βar This year’s big opening, global brand Buddha Bar brings its signature luxurious lounge vibe to the La Maltese Estate boutique hotel at one of the island’s most enchanting locations. The high-caliber cuisine is governed by a pan-Asian philosophy with international references, while spices, essential fruit oils and fresh herbs are brought together in amazing classic and signature cocktails. If you prefer wine, there’s a comprehensive list of international selections. • •

Η, €€€, Tel. 22860.247.01 www.buddhabarsantorini.com

Heliotopos Wine Bar The aim here is to make you feel as though you’re having dinner at a friend’s house. In the outdoor area (complete with gorgeous view), you can opt for tastings from a list of 100 wines to explore Assyrtiko and other native varieties. The indoor area, a man-made cave, was originally a wine cellar and dates back 400 years. Aside from cheese and cold-cut platters to accompany the wine, you can also sample some of the house dishes, prepared according to family recipes. The atmosphere is very friendly, but if you prefer a more romantic evening, book one of the two tables at the front of the terrace. • •

Η, €€, Tel. 22860.236.70 www.hotel.heliotopos.net

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LYCABETTUS

IDOL

Santoro The Grace Hotel bar, done up all in radiant white, is the perfect place to indulge in a champagne-based pre-dinner cocktail at sunset. In the kitchen, chef Spyros Agious puts together his awe-inspiring detail-oriented dishes. Complex techniques, geometrical compositions and intense colors define dishes that not only showcase the chef’s skills, but also his dedication. Try the Broccoli Savoro with three different textures for the vegetable, wakame seaweed and a spicy fish sauce with rosemary and sesame; or the memorable lamb fricassee, a rustic Greek dish that is elevated into a light, airy work of art. The 50-strong wine list has been very well researched. • •

Η, €€€, Tel. 22860.213.00 www.gracehotels.com/santorini/

MEGALOCHORI Feggera Located in a big courtyard with beautiful flowers, the atmosphere at Feggera is all about creating a sense of familiarity. The menu reflects a creative take on Mediterranean food, unpretentious and made from the finest ingredients, featuring dishes that are original without being eccentric. Don’t rush to the main course, as the meze are very interesting, and be sure to sample the seafood dishes, too.

Cooking classes, which are great fun, are also available. • €€, •

Tel. 22860.829.30 www.feggera.gr

OIA Anthos There are just 13 tables, with priority given to the guests of Kirini Suites, and an open kitchen that you’ll probably want to turn your back on, as sizzling pots cannot compete with the caldera view. The food is a fusion of Greek ingredients, Mediterranean flavors and Asian techniques. The rabbit, for example, is served with buckwheat and black truffle, and the eel comes with a split-pea dip, pickleweed and a sorbet made of dittany and lemon. The chef has a penchant for contrasts, so prepare yourself for things like the semifreddo desserts with sweet preserve of capers and rose locoum. The wine list features 16 bubblies, a few local labels and a largish selection of international wines. •

Η, €€€, Tel. 22860.712.36

• www.katikies.com/kirinisantorini/food-

wine

Armeni To reach Armeni, which probably serves the most authentic Greek cuisine on the island, you need to descend a few hundred steps or take a 2-minute boat ride from Ammoudi. Located on a quaint pier, this little restaurant is very

casual, serving fish that is prepared simply and tastes exceptional. Drop by in your bathing suit on your way from the beach and take a dip in the little harbor outside. Loungers are available for before or after your meal. • •

€€, Tel. 22860.710.533 www.armenisantorinirestaurant.gr

Black Rock Creative Greek comfort food with Asian elements is served in a lively but laid-back setting. Chef George Choraitis is not out to impress but to provide good food without fuss. The welcoming treat consists of sourdough bread with different dips such as fish roe, spicy feta and smoked eggplant. The dishes are made so they can be easily shared, with standouts that include the pork belly bun with onion and yogurt – an Asian take on Greek souvlaki. The Greek wine is made up exclusively in collaboration with Santorini’s Domaine Sigalas while there are also also some 30 other wines from around the world. There’s a sixcourse wine-tasting menu at a special price. •

Η, €€, Tel. 22860.273.37

•

www.santorini-secret.com

Mikrasia This restaurant is like nothing else you’ll find on the island, as it blends middle eastern cuisine with modern western gastronomy. There are just six tables but

advertorial

Metaxy Mas* S antorini ’ s most delicious secret Authentic local cuisine with a Cretan twist

The raki flows, the tasty food comes out in huge portions, the atmosphere is friendly... You’ll lose track of time and look forward to visiting our two shaded courtyards again and again.

* Greek for “Between Us” Exo Gonia, Santorini • Tel. (+30) 22860.313.23 www.santorini-metaximas.gr • email: info@santorini-metaximas.gr

E AT & DRINK

Petra Canaves Suites is one of Oia’s top accommodation options and this year Petra, its poolside restaurant, is welcoming non-guests as well. For lunch, chef Andreas Evangelatos recommends comfort favorites from Greece and other parts of the world, executed with an unconventional, fresher approach, such as garlicky tzatziki dipping sauce served with home-made potato chips or graviera cheese from Naxos fried in a

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panko crust. For dinner you can either pick the specially priced tasting menu, with or without wine pairing, or explore the à la carte selections of sumptuous seafood and meat dishes. Local vineyards are well represented on the wine list, though the signature cocktails also make for delightful combinations with the food.

H, €€€, Canaves Suites, Tel. (+30) 22860.714.53

•

E AT & DRINK

BUDDHA BAR

HELIOTOPOS WINE BAR

they are worth fighting for. This year’s menu draws inspiration from Santorini’s volcanic earth. There are just five appetizers and six mains, all well above the average fare served on the island. Try their original and flavor-packed deconstruction of “gemista” (stuffed vegetables) with crunchy rice and the blackened beef with carrots, eggplant and onion. The hotel is also home to Seltz, a Champagne bar with Japanese influences. Η, €€€, Tel. 22860.714.01 www.katikies.com/kirinisantorini/ food-wine • •

Lycabettus The food is contemporary international and with styling befitting a jewelry store window: dishes are served on miniatures of trees, wooden boxes or volcanic rocks, while the flavor combinations, such as seafood with fruit, are equally exotic. If you choose the full wine-tasting menu, you can book their exclusive “Sommelier’s Table” for two, overlooking the caldera from its own perch. The wine list includes 22 by-the-glass options and 16 champagnes. • Η,

€€€, Andronis Luxury Suites, Tel. (+30) 22860.720.41 • www.andronisexclusive.com

Roka With its airy courtyard full of flowers and its simple, wellcooked dishes, Roka is popular 154

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with locals. The menu features selections such as saganaki fried cheese, meatballs and octopus topped with a delicious beetroot and walnut sauce. At the end of your meal, you’ll be offered a dessert wine, which wraps everything up nicely.

more than 120 selections and all of the local wineries are represented. There’s also an old canava that has been turned into a delicatessen.

• €€,

PERIVOLOS

•

Tel. 22860.718.96 www.roka.gr

Sphinx Τhis building started as a boarding school, became a raki distillery and then a sock factory, only to be abandoned for decades, before an extensive renovation highlighted its industrial character. Mediterranean classics are prepared in an open kitchen, and the wine list features more than 300 choices, including special vintages and about 60 wines available by the glass. •

€€, Tel. 22860.238.23

•

www.sphinxwinerestaurant.com

Vineyart The restaurant’s young owners have put in a lot of personal effort here, but the place is unpretentious, the service friendly and the atmosphere easy-going. Grab a table on the terrace and enjoy plats du jour such as the risotto with baby artichoke from Tinos. Most ingredients are sourced locally or from the surrounding islands, while some come from small producers further afield in Greece. A wine tasting is a must here, since the cellar contains

• €, •

Tel. 2286.0720.46

www.oiavineyart.gr

Sea Side by Notos A luxury version of the all-day beach bar-restaurant, Sea Side by Notos introduced sushi on the beach to Santorini. Chef and co-owner Tassos Bacharidis has created a varied international menu. Tuna tartare, oysters, lobster, as well as burgers with fresh fries, are all very well presented and tasty. There is also a cocktail menu, a good wine list and many premium spirits. • •

€€, Tel. 22860.828.01 www.seaside-restaurant.gr

PYRGOS Selene You’ll have a memorable gastronomic experience at this historic restaurant, which was the first to showcase Santorini’s products when it opened 32 years ago in Fira. Under the direction of its owner Yiorgos Hatziyannakis and the care of manager and sommelier Georgia Tsara, it just keeps getting better with time. While it does not have a caldera view, its commitment to quality ingredients and the

finer details of food preparation make it a top gastro-destination. Chefs Alex Tsiotinis and Panos Tsikas are sharing the kitchen this year, so the menu is a fusion of their disparate yet well-suited styles. The rabbit stew is amazing, with slow-cooked onions, onion purée and a thick sauce, as is the squid-ink ravioli stuffed with shrimp and served with an almond, ginger and pine nut sauce. Comprising around 300 vintage and new Greek wines, the wine list is golden. • €€€, •

Tel. 22860.222.49 www.selene.gr

Selene Meze and Wine Here you will understand what simple yet not simplistic food if all about, thanks mainly to the chef’s commitment to local and Cycladic products. The menu is not very big with 10 appetizers and 10 mains, but they are all meant to be shared in the middle of the table. Highlights include the sun-dried fish, the octopus with split-pea cream, spicy chicory and beetroot, and vine leaves stuffed with tuna and quinoa, and served with fennel and green roe salad. The wines are all from local producers and the desserts are complex, modern delights. You can also arrange an olive-oil tasting session before a meal or Greek cooking class.

• €€, Tel. 22860.222.49 •

www.selene.gr

E AT & DRINK

Ammoudi Fish Tavern

Ammoudi HARBOR Picturesque Ammoudi, the small harbor of Oia, with its row of restaurants carved out of the red rocky cliffs, is perfect for a meal of fresh fish and seafood, local specialties and Santorini wines by the sea. Ammoudi Fish Tavern is located at the bay’s entrance, with a terrace that overlooks the water and makes you feel as if you’re on a sailboat. With over 40 years’ experience, the owners know how to make the best of the steady supply of fresh ingredients brought in by fishermen daily (€€ • Tel. 22860.722.98 • www.ammoudi-santorini.gr ). Right next door is Katina’s, renowned not only for its fresh seafood and family atmosphere but also for its owner, who over the years has become synonymous with Ammoudi Bay (€€ • Tel. 22860.712.80). Third in line is Sunset Ammoudi by Paraskevas, a fisherman himself, whose menu also includes selections for meat lovers and vegetarians (€€ • Tel. 22860.716.14 • www.sunset-ammoudi.gr). A few steps further, Dimitris welcomes patrons with a garland of octopuses hung out to dry in the sun and also serves grilled fish and seafood, lobster spaghetti and mussel saganaki. (€€ • Tel. 22860.716.06 • www.dimitris-ammoudi-restaurant.com)

Local Favorites Locals tend to prefer small, quite tavernas that may not have a caldera view, but prepare good food. Krinaki ( Finikia, Tel. 22860.719.93) uses local and Cycladic products in traditional dishes served on the rooftop terrace of an old house. Metaxy Mas ( Exo Gonia, Tel. 22860.313.23) is a cozy, friendly space overlooking a plateau and serves Cretan meze, while Postalia tou Aigaiou ( Messaria, Tel. 22860.342.34) offers the experience of a typical old island kafenio, serving salt-cured fish and ouzo. 156

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PSARAKI

KRINAKI

CAVE OF NIKOLAS

Catch of the Day Ta Dichtia ( Perivolos, Tel. 22860.828.18) is actually the kitchen and yard of a local fisherman, who cooks up his daily catch for his friends. Located by the sea, it is perfect for families with kids. House and bottled wine, all from Santorini, are available. Psaraki ( Vlychada, Tel. 22860.827.83) is known for the quality and variety of its menu, as the cooks use each fish to its best advantage – some are made into soup, others filleted and fried or grilled and some are served as a sashimi or carpaccio. The wine list – fully Santorinian – consists of both barreled and bottled options. At the same location – a cave by the sea – since 1967, The Cave of Nikolas (Akrotiri, Tel. 22860.823.03 ) still serves solid local fare with an emphasis on fish and seafood. Try the shellfish risotto and the wine produced by the family at its vineyard in Faros.

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