The Cope Quarterly #4

The Cope Quarterly A free publication dedicated to those exploring Copenhagen Issue #4 August 2015

Astrid Andersen Future of Fashion Fairs Scuptural Photography Art Copenhagen

Scandinavia’s International Art Fair for Contemporary & Modern Art Scandinavia’s International Art Fair for Contemporary & Modern Art

18 - 20 SEPTEMBER 2015 FORUM COPENHAGEN

18 - 20 SEPTEMBER 2015 FORUM COPENHAGEN GALLERIES FROM 15 DIFFERENT COUNTRIES NEW TALENTS | FREE GUIDED TOURS PERFORMANCES | ART-TALKS GALLERIES FROM 15 DIFFERENT COUNTRIES NEW TALENTS | FREE GUIDED TOURS PERFORMANCES | ART-TALKS FRI

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#artcph

artcopenhagen.dk

@artcopenhagen

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@artcopenhagen

www.reflectionsbyhugaularsson.com The idea for the Danish design duo REFLECTIONS BY HUGAU / LARSSON evolved in the need for something different. Something to counteract the traditional style and a wish for light reflections when decorating.

The result is a unique collection of handcrafted mirrors and crystal T-light and candle holders.

Welcome to the world of REFLECTIONS BY HUGAU / LARSSON.

Editor’s letter

A Week in Hell.

How would you describe your vision of Hell? While you think that over, here’s my idea of it: hot, dark, lots of temptations such as beautiful women and vast amounts of free alcohol.

Wait, did I say Hell or Heaven? I’m confused. Either way it sounds a lot like Copenhagen Fashion Week doesn’t it? So, welcome to the first Fashion Edition of The Cope!

That’s right – we made a fashion issue. We teamed up with Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) – Copenhagen’s largest and most established fashion trade show. They know what they’re doing.

The upcoming fashion week will be alluring and Copenhagen will once again be packed with beautiful people that will leave the rest of us feeling like the Blur song “Common People.”

So is there life after fashion? Yes mate, indeed there is. This September the 19th Art Copenhagen will take place in Forum; this event should be on your to-do list. Forum packed with art by established as well as up-andcoming artists. The great thing here is (unlike at the fashion trade shows) that you can actually buy the pieces you fall in love with. So start saving, go to the nearest cash point and withdraw!

But before you do that, read this magazine. Invest some time in it because we have some awesome content in this issue: Cool reviews, an amazing fashion shoot (duh) and a pretty interesting interview with this edition’s cover star, Astrid Andersen. As always; let me know what you think: to@thecope.dk

See you out there!

From Hell, Heaven or somewhere in between, Your Editor.

Editorial

IN THIS ISSUE The Cope Quarterly #4

8 - 11 Art Copenhagen 20 - 25 Astrid Andersen 32 - 45 Days that never ended 50 - 53 Future of Fashion Fairs 58 - 67 Ania Wawrzkowicz 72 - 75 We Architecture

Editor-in-chief Thomas Ørum Co-editor Rebecca Thandi Norman @scandinaviastandard.com Cover Photo by Abdellah Ihandian

Art Direction Daniel Santaana Louise Dupont Mille Kruse Writers Thomas Ørum Rebecca Thandi Norman Paris Davis

Photographers: Abdellah Ihandian Nicky De Silva Creative Direction & Pre-production: GreyWorks CPH

The Cope Quarterly is published by Gone to Print Aps, Hestegangen 2, 2800 Lyngby, Denmark.

All editorial content is published under copyright and cannot be copied or reprinted without written approval from Gone to Print Aps. Points and opinions made in The Cope Quarterly are those of Gone to Print’s and are not subject to insult nor meant to be provocative in any way.

All feed-back will be answered if written to: to@thecope.dk Let us know what you think, please!

Ø Østerbro

N Nørrebro

K København k

F Frederiksberg

ChristiansHavn

V Vesterbro

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Islands brygge

Copenhagen, the merchant’s port.

So I’ve just arrived in Copenhagen. What now? Where do I go, what do I see and how on earth do I get there?

Oh the joys of exploring a new city! It’s always great to take advantage of friends who have relocated - they are the perfect candidates to show you the ”real side” of the city and avoid those tourist traps. But what do you do when you’re alone? Fear not: The Cope is here and luckily for you, we know this place pretty well. Plus we like making new friends! So, welcome to Copenhagen. Let’s get started, shall we …

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Clockwise from top left: Hesselholdt and Mejlvang - Attack of the warpainted eagles David Shillinglaw - Helium cowboy art space Kinki Texas - Sang real Husk Mit Navn - The window painter

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ART

COPENHAGEN

‘Creativity is allowing yourself to make mistakes.

Art is knowing which ones to keep.’

– Scott Adams

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Left: Kinki Texas - Sulla Right: Erik A. Frandsen - Still Life I

S

eptember 18-20 at Forum Copenhagen, this city is getting artsy! For the 19th year in a row, hundreds of artists will be gathering together to give us an eclectic taste of art ranging from the modern and contemporary to the quirky and street.

Welcome to Art Copenhagen, Denmark’s oldest art fair. What began as a small fair for us Danish folk has snowballed, picking up galleries from around the world and steadily growing its international reputation.

“We want to make an event where the collectors, viewers and art lovers in Denmark don’t always have to travel to see international galleries – we’d like to bring it to them, and to Copenhagen,” says Julie, the head of Copenhagen Art Fair.

Alongside the sixty plus galleries, both famous and emerging (full list can be found at www.artcopenhagen.dk), the fair will also host a collection of interesting installations and special projects. These include a VIP Lounge curated by Republic of Fritz Hansen & Illums Bolighus.

Edge 2015 is an exhibition presenting new talents coming from renowned art academies. Talks, performances, guided tours and extra activities will be available as well. This fair offers something for everyone.

Even the children, you ask? Oh, absolutely! Last year featured hands-on painting and this year, artist Anders Bonnesen will be engaging children using a mix of poetry, play, construction and

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Left: René Holm - Will Fuck For Food Right: Husk Mit Navn - Behind The Wheel

art with his interactive art piece “A table is a table.” Any parents out there: make it a family day and bring your little ones along!

If you’re not an art-buff, it can be a little intimidating to attend a gallery show. The beauty of having multiple galleries under one roof is the freedom to move around, ask questions, let your guard down and the curiosity out. This is an opportunity for those who adore art already as well as those who have the potential to do so and just don’t know it yet.

It doesn’t really matter what bracket you fall under. If reading this has piqued your interest, come for a wander around and who knows? You may end up bringing home an artistic gem of your own. This is the time for Copenhagen to make its mark in the art world, as Julie notes: “Our vision is really to make an international art fair that will make people travel from all over the world to Scandinavia and hopefully in the future combine Nordic design and potentially even fashion to make a whole new platform for art. We want to add an extra factor and do something a little bit different to create a buzz about art in Copenhagen that will make people talk and want to visit.”

This, my friends, is what is going to put our fine city on the international art map. Attention, Paris: You may just have yourself a little competition!

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The go to spot for bespoke apparel.

Goods Østerbrogade 44 2100 København Ø +45 35 43 05 05 www.goodscph.com Mon - Fri: 11:00 - 18:00 Sat: 11:00 - 15:00

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his shop is not like other shops.

When you enter Goods, at the beginning of Østerbrogade opposite Sortedam (the first of the lakes), this becomes crystal clear. Everything is very neat and very clean. You instantly feel that this is a shop with high-quality brands and that the owner tries a lot harder than most.

Goods has been the borough’s go-to guy for curated menswear since 2008, when the shop was located just around the corner in Classensgade. The shop moved to its current location in 2012 and founder Kasper brought Hannes on board to further develop the concept.

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Shortly after joining forces, the two began developing their own line: Capital Goods, which they recently released.

Capital Goods is founded on the same principles as the store: quality, beautiful details and craftsmanship. In Denmark, the line is only sold in their own store.

Abroad, it is available in a chosen few stores. Goods is also the only store in Denmark to carry renowned Scottish coat brand Mackintosh.

Goods tries harder and it works. When they recently re-launched their online store, and implemented the personal vibe you get when visiting an independent

shop. They also stopped using Google Adwords, and by trying a little harder, doubled their online revenue. That says a lot these days.

If you are on the lookout for great Moscot sunglasses, a rare polo shirt or the original all-white sneakers from Common Projects, then you’ll want to make the trip here. If you’re nice, the guys might let you sit on their beautiful handmade bench for a while, too.

Ø Østerbro

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Not just another meal, but a dining experience.

Maven Nikolaj Plads 10-12 1067 København K +45 32 20 11 00 www.restaurantmaven.dk Mon - Thur: 11:30 - 00:00 Fri - Sat: 11:30 - 02:00

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t wasn’t until recently that I discovered this gem of a restaurant. It opened in 2011 and is truly worth searching for. “Maven” directly translates to ‘The Stomach;” perhaps not the most exciting name for a restaurant.

When you talk to founder and owner Thomas, however, you realize there is more to the name. A few hundred years ago, Nikolaj Plads was called “Maven” (Københavns Mave, officially) by locals because the square was the original meatpacking district.

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Before opening Maven, Thomas worked for many years as a waiter in restaurants in Italy followed by Norway. He gathered experience and inspiration to eventually start his own place. If his face seems familiar, you might have seen him on stage in a musical or play in his other job as an actor. A true Renaissance man!

Thomas believes dining out should be an experience rather then just another meal. When he hires staff, he makes sure they know about food, wine and high quality ingredients, but even more so

about hosting. “When people come here we make a big deal out of being the best host they could ask for,” Thomas says.

“It’s more than just great food and wine”, he explains.

Maven offers a mix of Scandinavian and Southern European dishes, carefully prepared by a talented Swedish chef with a pedigree from Nørrebro Bryghus and Nimb Brasserie. Make sure to put Maven on your to-do list; if it’s sunny, get there before all the outdoor seats are snatched up.

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København K

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Stocking a curated collection of brands you need.

Kyoto Istedgade 95 1650 København V +45 33 31 66 36 www.kyoto.dk Mon - Fri: 10:00 - 18:00 Sat: 10:00 - 17:00

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hat used to be a small, local street fashion storefront has become a destination for local and international fashion lovers.

Kyoto used to be across the street from where it currently stands and a lot smaller. Owner Kristian risked it all when he moved the store to a much bigger and more expensive corner location, as well as starting to stock womenswear.

It turns out it was all worth it; business is booming to such an extent that Kristian

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barely had five minutes for us when we forced our way over to him, alongside a sales rep from yet another hip label.

Nowadays, Kyoto carries brands like Acne, Carin Wester, Libertine-Libertine, AMI Paris and Wood Wood. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out that this shop is on the radar in the fashion industry.

Like most other locals, we’ve known Kyoto for years but I hadn’t been down there in a while. Maybe I should pop into Kyoto more often because I have been stupid enough to buy Saturdays Surf

garments online and have them shipped from New York when I could have just biked down to Kyoto. Instead, I ended up paying the good ole’ import tax, shipping and all that jazz.

So whether you’re looking to save on import taxes or to check out the carefully selected threads they carry, one thing is guaranteed; you’ll find what you’re looking for.

V Vesterbro

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Interior design with a retro vibe.

Next Door Dag Hammerskjölds Allé 33 2100 København Ø +45 28 35 43 35 Tue - Fri: 11:00 - 18:00 Sat: 10:00 - 15:00

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t doesn’t take many episodes of Mad Men to make us eager to travel back in time and share a few drinks with Don Draper, right? Well, the girls on Dag Hammerskjolds Allé in Østerbro can’t deliver Don Draper (to my knowledge) but they can provide all the accouterments.

Next Door is a small interior design shop that specializes in retro furniture.

Although co-founder Christine says,

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“We never planned on being strictly 60s and 70s décor,” that’s definitely the vibe you get when entering. There are plenty of brass/glass coffee tables, small sofas with flower pattern cushions, oak-wood mirrors, teak – I could go on.

This place is truly fabulous and the girls are just so good at following through on their concept. You won’t find some random gadget from the 90s, sticking

out and ruining the atmosphere. You do, indeed, feel like you’re on the set of Mad Men. We fell so in love with the place that we asked if we could do this issue’s fashion shoot there.

Fortunately the girls said yes. So jump to page 32 to see how that went – or, better yet, pop over to Next Door to feel the vibe yourself!

Ø Østerbro

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ASTRID ANDERSEN

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Graduating from London’s The Royal Academy Of Art in 2010, Danish born menswear designer Astrid Andersen takes casualwear with a sports-inspired aesthetic to a whole new premium level.

Transferring inspiration from American streetwear, her collections fuse modern fabrics, bold colours and luxe finishes. The clothes speak for themselves but what we also love is the store itself.

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Moving away from the three storey madness of today’s shopping world, being no bigger than 25sqm and an extension of her personal studio, this store is an intimately cool hip-hop inspired space. Think of a golden basketball hoop hanging on the wall, giant mirrors, chairs with fur pillows and you’ll get the jist! A trendy store in a trendy location! You can find on Jagtvej 19, in what we can probably call the most culturally diverse neighbourhoods in the city – the one and only Nørrebro! Keeping in line with the low key vibe, the store is only open on Saturday’s so check your diaries and pop by this cute and quirky store offering a new kind of luxury - we dare you to be a little different!

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Why did you choose Jagtvej as the location for your store?

My studio is here and it’s where I first started my brand. I will forever feel a strong connection with this location. Nørrebro is one of my favorite parts of Copenhagen as it shows the most diversity in cultures and people. I love that it’s a destination shop, so people don’t just walk down the street randomly and find us. Our customers research and take the time to come by because they engage with the brand and become part of it - I’m very proud to have the support of such customers in today’s consumer market.

Have you noticed your store attracting a certain group of customers?

I’ve found that it’s those who are truly interested in the brand - both in the aesthetic we are trying to push and in the culture of which it is a product. The customer is mostly defined by his interests rather than his age or where he lives - we sometimes have guys that travel from Esbjerg or some other city in Jutland coming here to shop and to have a conversation about the brand –it’s truly amazing! They come here to feel like they are a part of it. Without them there is no brand, so the respect goes both ways for sure. This is the definition of a new luxury- a new generation defining luxury. It’s no longer about big corporate

fashion houses where you walk into a shop and feel so alienated by the staff, the size and the decoration.

Here, part of what makes it a luxury label is that you have the chance to engage.

What advice would you give to up-and-coming designers opening their own shop?

It took me four years to open this small shop. My advice would be to go slow. Take your time and prove your worth steadily. Nobody wants to be an overnight success because it’s not real. I didn’t open this shop to generate huge profits, I did it to have a place where people can come and feel the essence of the brand. It’s very difficult as a new designer to brand yourself in a multi-label shop where you maybe have 50 cm on a rack. How the brand is perceived and understood will always be the keystone to every move we make.

What was the greatest challenge opening up a store in Nørrebro?

I guess making people travel that extra mile to get here; getting them to take the time to actually visit us.

Could you see yourself opening concept stores like this in other cities?

That’s the ultimate dream for me. I hope it happens one day.

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We noted that you studied in London; did this inspire your collections? What parts or neighborhoods of London did you find visually inspiring?

My aesthetic will always originate from London. I studied there and that was the place where I found the space to develop an identity within my designs and believe in myself. I lived in Shepherd’s Bush, which is the most multicultural area in London; that both fascinates and inspires me.

You mention that it’s important to build your brand slowly; can you explain this process a bit more? What was your timeline like?

People are too focused on making it fast, especially in Denmark. From day one, you’re valued by how big a production setup you have and not in the creative level of your work or the dreams you have.

London is different. If you have a clear vision, you will get support because they understand it takes multiple seasons to build something that is stronger than a large production capacity. I’m very lucky to receive support from the British Fashion Council in this way and it makes me work harder than I ever thought possible.

Have you had any “breakthrough” moments of which you feel especially proud?

Yes! At the moment, I feel like they keep happening.

But one moment that will always be most precious was

when I graduated from RCA with honors and was selected to close the show. It was a very overwhelming stamp of approval that kick-started my label.

When you initially began looking for a space, was it always your intention to choose somewhere small to create this intimate vibe or did it just work out that way?

When I first found the studio I shared it with a friend.

I just loved the story of how it was a menswear tailor for over 50 years! Some days I feel like that history is in the walls and it inspires me. I didn’t consider having a shop when I first moved in, but as we grew it became very obvious.

We love the basketball hoop on the wall. Who inspired the interior design in here?

I made this hoop with a friend when I had my first presentation here in Copenhagen four years ago.

Basketball has been at the core of my aesthetic from the beginning. We created the hoop as a timeless piece of luxury and every day that I look at it, I feel very happy and focused.

Where do you see yourself and your brand in five years?

If we need more room, I hope we can take over the place next door! I can imagine staying here and growing from this space. For me the most important thing this is that we continue to stay true to our creative ambition.

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Doing it for kicks and giggles.

Hooha Elmegade 14-20 2200 København N +45 35 37 60 37 www.hooha.dk Mon - Fri: 11:00 - 18:00 Sat: 11:00 - 16:00

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ooha has two very cool shops on legendary Elmegade. I was going to say “coolest street in Nørrebro” but you could argue that would be Jægersborggade or somewhere around there. The thing is, Elmegade is original. Most shops and people – like Hooha and Henrik - have been there for years. That’s a rarity nowadays.

It’s too easy to move with the hype; move to the new cool area. It takes cujones to stay and fight when the trend wave flattens

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out. I would personally say Elmegade is much more hyggelig than hyped.

So what makes the respective Hooha locations so great? One is sneakers – and we all know that core sneaker shops rock!

They carry a really wide selection of kicks for both men and women. Like Nike once asked: “how many is too many?” Right?

The other space is a super tight menswear shop with both street fashion and more

dressy stuff. It also carries a selection of Filson bag, which go nicely with your Nudie Jeans, your Clarks and your new Hooha Sweatshirt (yes, they have a small collection of their own designs, too).

Hooha’s staff knows their shit. Ask them about any garment or brand and they will share their expertise; like why, for instance, they recently started working with Denmark’s first sneaker dry cleaner.

Clever, that…

N

Nørrebro

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Gourmet coffee, great service, and cosy décor.

Coffee Room Silkegade 1 1113 København K +45 20 75 92 72 Mon - Fri: 8:30 - 19:00 Sat - Sun: 10:00 - 17:00

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offeehagen: that’s what it should be called by now. So many coffee bars have opened over the last three years; many of them with their own roasting facilities in Copenhagen. Hell, half of our office staff used to work as baristas.

So with so many coffee bars around, what makes this place stand out from the rest? Gourmet coffee from The Coffee

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Collective, great service and chic décor are three safe bets.

Located on a narrow side-street off the busy pedestrian road Købmagergade, this little gem gets the city-meets-cosy vibe just right. Whether you’re looking for a moment of solitude during a hectic day or an afternoon of work (free wifi available!), you won’t be disappointed here.

The Coffee Room is somewhat of a rarity in downtown Copenhagen. If we were in Vesterbro or Nørrebro, we’d expect a cool interior and funky personnel but in the city centre we are mainly exposed chains and franchises. That’s why we hope The Coffee Room will remain a beloved neighbour to our office! Support a local treasure and stop by for a quiet cup on a summer eve.

K

København K

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One of the last true skateboard shops in the city.

Sidewalk Enghave Plads 10 1670 København V +45 33 31 32 34 www.sidewalkshop.dk Mon - Fri: 11:00 - 18:00 Sat: 10:00 - 16:00

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n the heart of Vesterbro, Engahave Plads is a small DIY skatepark made by local skaters and home of the sidewalk surfers. The Sidewalk Skateshop and its loyal entourage have been here since 2003 and you just have to applaud Thomas Madsen who has been fighting hard to remain as one of the last true skateshops in Copenhagen, well, Denmark even.

Refusing to sell out takes a lot of guts and Thomas has that. Just across the road

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from the skatepark, Sidewalk Skateshop is the skateboard shop for everyone that likes to roll, old school or new school, everyone is welcome.

Thomas stocks classic core skate brands like Thrasher and Independent, the latest from Nike, Adidas, Vans, and a truckload more brands, as well as things you won’t find elsewhere like Transportation Unit & Welcome skateboards. Every May

Sidewalk hosts Fortovsfest, which began as a skateboard contest, and has turned into a one day festival with bands, food, streetball, a fleamarket and of course skateboarding. So if you’re down in Vesterbro and feel like going for a roll, or just having a good chat, stop by and see Thomas and Rasmus in Sidewalk for friendly personal service and some inside local knowledge.

V Vesterbro

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Photographer NICKY DE SILVA Stylist PARIS DAVIS

Hair & Makeup ASHLEY ZAREIFARD

Models EMMA PENTHIEN & JANNIC SORIANO

Assistant MILLE KRUSE DAMGAARD

DAYS that never ended

ever.

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Shirt JAN MACHENHAUER from ZONE 1 // 950,Skirt JAN MACHENHAUER FROM ZONE 1 // 4500,Belt JAN MACHENHAUER FROM ZONE 1 // 735,Sunglasses KAIBOSH FROM KYOTO // 850,Cope Quarterly | p.33

Shirt CAPITAL GOODS from GOODS // 1300,Jeans HAN KJOBENHAVN from KYOTO // 1000,Shoes CLARKS from KYOTO // 1000,Glasses EYEVAN from GOODS // 3350,-

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Shirt CAPITAL GOODS from GOODS // 1000,Shorts NORSE PROJECTS from GOODS // 600,Hat GITMAN VINTAGE from GOODS // 700,-

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Coat JAN MACHENHAUER from ZONE 1 // 9500,Silk Scarf ÉPICE from ZONE 1 // 650,-

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SIXTIES SLANG

A GAS // Having a lot of fun. BOSS // BOOKIN' // Going real fast. BREAD // M someone out in a fight. DITZ // An idiot.

FINK // A tattletale. FLICK // Movie. FOX // chick. GLITCH // An obstacle. GROOVY // police or any law enforcement. HIP // To b Cadillac. HUSTLE // To persuade or pressu JUICE // Inside, confidential information. fashionanddesign. NIFTY //Stylishorvery thin sheets used to roll joints. SKIN // A h uncool. VIBES // feelings emanating from naturallyenergizedorexcited. ZONE //Tol Cope Quarterly | p.38

Cool or fantastic. BLITZED // Drunk.

Money. CAT // A guy. DECK // To knock FAT // Signifies something good or best. / An outstanding, hot, attractive looking // Outstanding, cool or neat. HEAT // The be in the know, to be cool, good. HOG // A ure. JAM // To leave a place, often in haste. . MOD // Short for modern, it pertained to ygood. PAPERS //Shortforrollingpapers, handshake. SQUARE // A person who is m a person or situation. WIRED // High, also loseawarenessandyourtrainofthought.

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Jannic Shirt CAPITAL GOODS from GOODS // 1000,Jumper ACNE STUDIOS from KYOTO // 1095,Shorts CAPITAL GOODS from GOODS // 900,Shoes ADIDAS from KYOTO // 800,Glasses EYEVAN from GOODS // 3350,-

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Emma Top CALVIN KLEIN from KYOTO // 400,Skirt JAN MACHENHAUER from ZONE 1 // 4500,Sunglasses KAIBOSH from KYOTO // 850,Shoes GARDENIA (models own)

Top ÉPICE from ZONE 1 // 2500,Skirt JAN MACHENHAUER from ZONE 1 // 4500,-

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Emma Dress JAN MACHENHAUER from ZONE 1 // 6500,Jannic Polo SUNSPEL from GOODS // 800,Jeans LEVI’S from GOODS // 1300,Cope Quarterly | p.43

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Top ÉPICE from ZONE 1 // 2500,Skirt JAN MACHENHAUER from ZONE 1 // 3800,Belt JAN MACHENHAUER from ZONE 1 // 735,-

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Handmade Danish designs.

Zone 1 Nikolaj Plads 7 1067 København K +45 33 12 13 43 www.janmachenhauer.com Man - Sat: 11:00 - 18:00

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ike most great cities, the best independent shops are never found on the main streets, or in Copenhagen’s case, on Strøget. Jan Machenhauer is no exception. This is a strongly independent Danish label that is designed and produced in Copenhagen to the highest standards.

out in number 11, moved to number 9 and now his store is located at Nikolaj Plads number 7. That says a lot about the man; he is consistent. Whether it comes to choosing fabrics for his collections or sticking to a certain silhouette that works, he will remain constant.

One of the many impressive things about Jan is that he has remained “off the map” since 1981. He has moved twice – but only within the same building. He started

It is that consistency that garnered the attention of world-renowned King of Merino John Smedley, who produced a private label for Jan. It is the same

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consistency that makes Jan’s label Épice one of the most sought-after scarf collections in Europe.

Whether you’re a local or visiting Copenhagen, make sure you get to know Jan’s store, Zone 1. The store is beautiful as a space but wait until you start flicking through those racks! The next time you’re in Paris or Tokyo, make sure you visit the Épice boutique; you are guaranteed to fall in love.

K

København K

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The coffee we love to love.

Kontra Coffee Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 36 2100 København Ø +45 35 25 59 20 www.kontracoffee.com Mon - Fri: 11:00 - 18:00 Sat: 11:00 - 15:00

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offee: the six letters no one can seem to live without. Coffee in the morning, coffee before lunch, after lunch, during work and on it goes.

All that work just so we can enjoy the good stuff in their Østerbro store, in other great cafes around the city and the rest of Denmark. What nice chaps!

brew yourself the perfect cup. The taste testing sessions and their in-store brew bar add to the already impressive level of information.

Situated in Østerbro, Kontra Coffee is a staple of Copenhagen’s coffee scene.

Headed by dedicated caffeine-fanatics Kurt Dalsgaard and Troels Poulsen, the Kontra crew are admitted coffee nerds with a focus on quality. The best beans are sourced from around the world, then roasted and blended here in Copenhagen.

Any self-diagnosed coffee addicts out there (own hand goes straight up)? The store not only offers spectacular coffee but almost every other coffee-related thing: beans, grinders, every brewing device imaginable. The staff are super knowledgable and will ensure that you head home with everything you need to

We, as normal self-serving human beings, want the best we can have. Period. We just aren’t programmed to choose bad coffee when we can have good, or pretty good when we can have the bloody Best with a capital B. Why should we?

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Wake up and smell that Kontra Coffee.

Ø Østerbro

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F.O.F.F Future of Fashion Fairs

Kristian Andersen is the Fashion and Design Director of Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF), Art Copenhagen and northmodern. Since he began there in 2011, his vision and local-meets-global strategy have been a pillar of the three fairs’ growth. We’ll let him explain why Copenhagen is fast becoming a top destination for fashion and design brands & buyers.

CIFF has undergone huge changes over the last few years. Can you tell us about the need for those changes?

Fashion trade shows all over the world were, and some still are, quite challenged by a conservative way of thinking and doing business. CIFF was no exception when I took over the direction in 2011.

It was crucial for me to work on the strategy intensely for a couple of months. I already had a very clear idea of that when I accepted the position.

Being a brand exhibitor and sales director for over two decades helped a lot, obviously – especially in how not to run the business in the future.

I drafted a pan of my long-term vision and swiftly implemented a new way of running the business within 3 – 4 months. This could be considered the classic “100 Days” you get to form a sense of the status quo, then rock on with the new vision. CIFF changed from being a classic trade show to being a brand on its own.

What was the hardest decision you had to make during that changeover?

I do not find decisions hard. From the outside, some may have seemed quite hard. They were all necessary and therefore crucial for our future business and for Copenhagen Fashion Week in general.

What are the initiatives of which you are most proud?

In business matters I do not really use the word proud. It is often misinterpreted. I’m proud of my team, I’m proud of our clients and especially of our new domestic and international talents that are doing so well. I take great pride in doing a serious job down to the smallest details.

The initiative I am most pleased with, or proud of if you like, is the fact that CIFF has managed to keep all our existing clients and as well as attracted a whole new league of international brands to Copenhagen.

This is a complicated journey; creating individual platforms for very different brands, then gathering them all for one global showcase.

By knowing and understanding the brands, as well as having genuine interest in the collections and distribution, CIFF has become one the leading fairs in the world. We operate more than ten highly individualized and curated shows from Raven Projects, Raven, LAB, SLEEK, Urban, Style Setters, Performance, Essentials, Showrooms and CIFF Shoes.

You work a lot with young Danish designers. What kind of support do you offer to up-and-comers?

Danish Designers – new talent in particular - are one of the pillars of the

CIFF Raven Exhibition space and entertainment

business. We monitor the entire industry. The designers we believe have international potential are invited to work with us in one of our curated areas.

This empowers the brand visually, as we have custom-made build-up and solutions, and also guarantees an improved professional network.

We travel the world between seasons with special events created by our marketing and global management team in order to directly promote new talents to buyers and press in major cities. We currently do this in London, Paris, New York City and Berlin.

Designers chosen by CIFF also receive financial support for fashion shows, marketing activities and social dinners. For the last three years, CIFF has supported DANSK / MAGASIN Talent Award.

CIFF is an important platform for the development of the Danish fashion industry. What aspects do you think are most beneficial?

CIFF has a tremendous impact on the Danish fashion industry. This impact obligates us to be of service to the industry not only in Denmark, but in all of Scandinavia. Since the late 1960s, Bella Center has operated Scandinavia’s most successful show.

Today, CIFF is the only platform in Scandinavia that is able to attract successful Scandinavian brands plus curate high-end international brands at the same time. This combination of commercially successful brands, global brands and the best of new designers from all over the world is establishing CIFF – and Copenhagen - as a highly relevant destination for business and innovation.

Buyers are too busy to attend all the shows and fairs these days. How do you entice them to CIFF?

Everybody is busy! Time is the most valuable asset we have. The key to making sure buyers and brands attend is relevance. If it’s not relevant, nobody cares. Therefore, our curation of brands is vital.

We engage a lot with our talent before the show. Buyers will find pieces only sold at CIFF. The professional buyers are very concerned about getting the most up-to-date information and seeing the special editions.

They follow our designers and engage with them. These buyers are the future because they support and are curious about new talent.

You have mentioned digital strategy as a being a large part of your overall strategy. How is this being integrated?

Social media is a big part of the CIFF strategy. We count engagement rather than number of followers, it’s about quality not quantity. Our social media team is working 24 hours a day as we start up with an overseas team as well.

We create stories, we visit the brands, and we are open to ideas from our network in order to create relevant content. In 2016, we launch our app to improve buyer visits. We also digitized the traditional hardcopy catalogue.

How important has social media been to the success of the projects you’re running?

It is a crucial part of how we interact with professionals all over the world, as well as our exhibitors. It will increase beyond comprehension in the future

Kristian Andersen

Virgil Abloh's OFF WHITE, and buyers at CIFF Raven

International brand presence is obviously very important to buyers.

How important is that presence to development of Danish brands?

It’s just as important for the Danish brands as it is for the buyers. Who wants to be a hero among the other local heroes? The best way I can explain this is that it is like a nightclub. Do you want to be the best looking and most interesting group in the local club with your local friends? Or would you rather go to a place where there are bigger stars and better-looking people that are more successful than yourself? With the latter, you have a great chance to meet the best buyers and be among some of the best international brands that Danish designers look up to.

What do you do to attract in-demand brands to Copenhagen?

Copenhagen is an in-demand destination known globally for its food and lifestyle. At CIFF we have fully integrated the city into our show, offering unique collaborations, experiences and opportunities for popular brands, designers and key personalities.

What initiatives have you created that are unique to CIFF?

completely into a booming new community with the construction of the Bella Bro city, which has already begun. We do not aim to be the biggest platform in the world - just the most innovative.

How do you see the future of fashion fairs in general?

As with any other business: if you stay relevant you will survive.

Aside from the fairs themselves, what other activities are you involved in throughout the year?

Is this not enough? [Laughs] I’m involved with new projects as well as continuing to improve the global presence of CIFF, northmodern and Art. How do you plan to continue growing and potentially compete with Paris & Milan?

We do not compete with Paris and Milan. Paris has 200 years of couture tradition and Milan has the biggest furniture show in the world. But we will be in the top 10 relevant destinations in the world within the different industries. We offer relevance, not size.

CIFF offers a unique co-branding platform and special projects for both international and domestic talents not seen at any other trade show destination.

Are there any exciting projects in the works you can let us in on?

How have the habits of buyers and exhibitors changed over the years?

Do you have any personal picks for most exiting brands to watch this year?

I personally think professional buyers and brands have always acted the way they do now. What you see today is that it is becoming increasingly obvious who will be around 10 years from now. That counts for all of us.

This question would need a special interview but I guess the printing space is limited. To mention just a few among hundreds of super talented brands and personalities for this coming SS 16 edition: for CIFF, I recommend that you visit Raven Projects and Raven for talented artists and designers with the most current, global design.

In addition to CIFF, you also run Art Copenhagen and northmodern.

What led to you taking on these additional fairs?

I would love to, but I believe actions speak louder than words. So please stay tuned!

The art, furniture and industrial design scene were actually part of the initial strategy for CIFF made back in 2011. Today, we have created a platform that makes it possible for our national and international team to create a unique network that has global relevance now and in the future .

For northmodern: check out 1.618 Paris, our partners in Paris who are joining northmodern for the first time - they’re a sustainable luxury destination for lifestyle and design representing the most talented creators for now and the next generation.

We're presenting art, fashion, furniture and industrial design all with the different industry needs in mind, but on a single, powerful, creative and business platform. The area in and around Bella Center will change

For Art Copenhagen: it’s still a secret.

The menswear store with a personality.

K. Munch Ndr. Frihavnsgade 26 2100 København Ø +45 40 31 91 50 www.kmunch.com Mon - Thur: 10:00 - 18:00 Fri: 10:00 - 18:00 Sat: 10:00 – 16:00

M

y father-in-law often says “Kristian and Kevin are the friendliest shopkeepers in Østerbro”. He is a regular there and only shops when they are in-store.

They all share a few interests; one of them is quality footwear. K Munch recently started carrying Paul Smith shoes. They also carry limited edition sneakers like Neighbourhood x Adidas, so that makes the daily dog-walk a tad more interesting for my wife’s father. That’s another passion they share: dogs.

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Chances are, the first personality you’ll encounter when visiting Kristian’s cool menswear shop is Fie. She is a sturdy (didn’t say fat, Kristian) English bulldog and has been part of K Munch since day one. And, yes, she does have a very big personality even though she is, well, a dog.

She looks frightening but is totally adorable and not the slightest bit dangerous.

K Munch has sold Nudie Jeans for many years and recently acquired an old

sewing machine from the company, now qualifying the store as an official jean repair shop. Other brands you’ll find there are Lacoste Live, Mads Nørregaard and, of course, Kristian’s own leather label: K Munch.

Make sure you stop by for a friendly chat and some quality shopping when you’re in the area.

Ø Østerbro

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An oasis in the city with a spectacular view over Øresund.

Docken Færgehavnsvej 35 2150 Nordhavn +45 39 29 92 00 www.docken.dk www.dockhouse.dk Docken: By appointment Dock House: Every day 10:00 - 21:00

D

oes dinner and drinks with a view sound appealing? Docken may be your place! What used to be a rusty salt warehouse is now fully transformed into the perfect place to chill out after a stressful (or non-stressful) day.

Consisting of two big halls and the lovely café called The Dock House, the space is a little piece of paradise in Østerbro with a

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spectacular view over Øresund. The Dock House is the ultimate place to relax with a refreshing drink in-hand, toes in the sand. If you can’t go on vacation, bring the vacation to you.

If you feel like throwing a get-together for your closest 40 or 4000 friends (Facebook friends are still real, right?) this is the perfect place to do it. With over 2.600

square meters, Docken has plenty of room for parties, conferences, concerts, exhibitions and more.

Ample space; beautiful view; hot location… check, check and check!

Sounds like a new favorite summer hangout to me. Push the boat out and enjoy a holiday at Docken.

Ø Østerbro

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Set design by Linnea Apelqvist

Ania Wawrzkowicz is a still life photographer based in London. Specialising in what she calls sculptural photography, Ania's carefully composed images and playful emphasis on materials transform inanimate objects into fully fledged artworks.

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Styling by Olivia Gregory

H

ow did you get started with photography?

I have been interested in the arts since I was very little. My grandparents and my mother were all architects. I grew up with my mum and grandmother by their drawing desks, where everything was drawn by hand. I wanted to become a painter; that dream evolved with time and shifted to photography.

When I was 16, I went for an exchange year to the United States, where I felt disconnected from my environment, home, friends. I was bored with rural Indiana day-to-day life. I signed up for afternoon photography classes and loved it. I got a part time job in the school darkroom, cleaning old negatives and printing archival images that belonged to a local family. I loved it and haven’t put the camera down since.

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You specialise in still life. How did you get to that point?

At one point, I shifted from treating photography as a frame or a window through which the world is viewed to that of a site where the world is arranged; where sculptural activity takes place. What I really enjoy about still life photography is the freedom to experiment with concepts, ideas and materials. I’m interested in assembling and constructing, that is why working in the studio has became an integral part of my practice.

I’m interested in photography’s ability to make images that are not bound to the real world; images with no indexical relationship with reality. Moving photography into abstraction, with no readable subjects – arrangement of objects, shapes, materials that hold no meaning

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Set design by Aliki Kirmitsi

Set design by Linnea Apelqvist

and are recognized purely for their shape and colour. Sculptural photography.

You’ve mentioned that you have fond memories of Denmark. Can you tell us a little about that?

I used to go to Denmark for family holidays.

My dad had work connections with Denmark and became good friends with few people. I remember white sandy beaches, boats, and classic Danish ice creams. I loved Legoland, flea markets, beautiful little towns, as well as Copenhagen. I haven’t visited for around 20 years and I’m planning to visit in autumn with couple of friends. Can’t wait!

Where do you draw inspiration for your work?

I love looking at art, films, reading books or looking at landscape and allowing free association to happen. It is important to allow time for

ideas to emerge. I draw inspiration from abstract art, sculpture, conceptual art, geometry, constructivism and minimalism, among many others. But also from childlike curiosity, playfulness with materials, imagination, philosophy and questioning the sense of reality…

A simple form, line, color or interest in particular material can be a visual starting point, which allows experimental engagement with the medium of photography.

Do you have a set process when you are putting compositions together, or does it depend on the subject matter?

I research a lot before a project and have an idea of which direction I want image to move.

Then I gather materials, paint, build sets often in collaboration with other artists.

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Set design by Aliki Kirmitsi

It is important for me to leave space for experimentation and playfulness on the shoot and not to be too set on a final outcome.

My work also emphasises physicality and substance trying to make sense of matter through process. The back and forth movement of observing, composing, reflecting and recomposing is a vital part of my way of working.

Your work has a very sculptural aesthetic. Is photography just a way to give permanence, or is the work always conceived in the context of a photo?

I think of my work as “sculptural photography” and I’m fascinated with the transformative quality of photography. Photography provides means by which we can free sculpture from its weight, monumentality and permanence.

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perfect way to experiment, to explore abstract concepts. I feel that a created image is selfsufficient; it’s a trace of an encounter between the artist and material.

I’m interested in sculpture, drawing and other art forms too, but I feel that my work investigates the potential of photography to transform reality and create new reality. I’m interested in the relationship between an actual thing and a construct; between two and three-dimensional forms.

What drives you to keep doing what you do?

That’s hard to answer. It feels natural to do what I do. It’s a combination of love for contemporary art and philosophy, and need for expression.

You often work in collaboration with other artists. How important are those relationships to your success?

Collaboration is a very important part of my work. It’s the ability to share ideas, move them

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Set design by Linnea Apelqvist

Set design by Robert Storey

forward and share in the creative process that enable us to grow as artists. Two people always bring different experience and skills. I collaborate mainly with set designers and stylists. At the same time, I don’t share my studio. It is important for me to have time on my own, to think, to read, to daydream. I guess the balance between the two is the key.

You seem to have a lot of freedom to create work that is true to yourself. Have you had to turn down clients if they don’t share your vision?

I do sometimes turn jobs down if I feel that it is not right for me. I feel that artistic integrity is very important. It makes us more human, humble and real. I think it’s just important to be honest with oneself and have the right motives.

Which other areas of art do you see yourself moving into in the future?

I got into jewellery design; I would love to learn more and make more. It’s a new hobby that is evolving into a semi-professional project at the moment. It’s a refreshing change from the quick and full-on world of photography with loads of equipment, wires, and computer screens.

Jewellery design is very manual, slow, and meditative. I love sitting and polishing ring for hours or sculpting in wax.

I would also love to start painting again. I stopped 15 years ago and have found it hard to start again. Maybe I will integrate more painting with my photography instead.

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Quality goods you won't find elsewhere, and no plastic.

H. Skjalm P. Nikolaj Plads 9 1067 København K +45 33 11 82 00 www.hskjalmp.dk Mon - Thur: 10:00 - 18:00 Fri: 10:00 - 19:00 Sat: 10:00 - 16:00

F

or more than 60 years, the shop with the quirky name has been selling bespoke interior goods and attracting people from all over Copenhagen as well as the outskirts of the city.

H. Skjalm P. is one of those shops with so many wonderful products that you leave thinking “I actually need a new vase, lamp shade, brass container for my paper clips or what about that handmade wooden bench for my dining room…?”

Yes, it is slightly dangerous to enter if you love home accessories. If you’re a sucker

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for a good story, don’t ask the staff how it all began. The nice woman we talked to has worked there twenty years! She told us that Hagbarth Skjalm Petersen opened his shop 62 years ago with his wife, Mrs. Westergaard. Sadly, Skjalm P. is no longer with us. But at the age of 90, Mrs. Westergaard still participates in running the shop. She may not be in the office from 9-5 every day but she still approves – or vetoes – the products.

The company philosophy is that no plastic goods will ever find their way to the shelves. That says a lot about the

shop; quality goods that you won’t find elsewhere, from pillows to fabrics, brass to glassware to wooden goods, and anything else you could possibly imagine having in your kitchen. How do they make sure you won’t find the products that grace their shop in other places?

They design and produce up to 60% of the items themselves – that’s how.

A company that’s been around for over half a century and hasn’t lost its modern edge is one that deserves our attention.

K

København K

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A unique gallery space in central Copenhagen.

Martin Asbæk Gallery Bredgade 23 1260 København K +45 33 15 40 45 www.martinasbaek.com Tue - Fri: 11:00 - 18:00 Sat: 11:00 - 16:00

M

artin Asbæk Gallery is a unique space in central Copenhagen with high ceilings, a beautiful frieze and a lounge that orders you to relax.

Scandinavian and international photographers like Ebbe Stub Wittrup, Trine Søndergaard, Nicolai Howalt and Astrid Kruse Jensen.

Martin Asbæk established the gallery in 2005, having been inspired by his parents’ gallery Galerie Asbæk. Initially, it was a small space in the basement of Galerie Asbæk. As the gallery grew, it needed more space and moved across the street. Since then, Asbæk has built a strong portfolio of artists. The gallery has become a pioneer of photography and today works with established

When Asbæk curates solo exhibitions, he allows the artist make his or her own statement in the space. This has given the gallery many unique moments; Danish multi-media artist Eva Koch showed bronze sculptures alongside video, placing a huge point as an obstacle in the middle of the room. Maria Rubinke installed a dense forest of birch trunks that stood from floor to ceiling, with

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her porcelain sculptures on podiums between the trees.

In the last decade, art fairs have become a key platform in the promotion of artists and galleries. Martin Asbæk Gallery participates in several international fairs annually, such as CHART Art Fair at Kunsthal Charlottenborg in Copenhagen, 21st - 23rd August 2015, where the gallery will present sculpture by Maria Rubinke, photography by Trine Søndergaard and paintings by Markus Oehlen. In the gallery itself, the annual group-show Summer in the City will be on display.

K

København K

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WE architecture Founded in January 2009 by the architects Marc Jay and Julie Schmidt-Nielsen, WE architecture handles architectural and urban design, interior design and renovation and the development of conceptual projects and visionary ideas.

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Psychiatric Center Ballerup, Denmark

Medical Center Moscow, Russia

What is WE architecture’s design philosophy?

As the primary focus of the office is architecture, a lot of effort goes into rethinking and examining new potential correlations in architecture, framed by a sustainable approach.

The studio is not willing to dedicate itself to only one particular architectural ideology. WE adapt each project to the situation – from a cultural, social, constructive, sustainable and aesthetic point of view. WE emphasize the importance of every single voice in the creation of their projects.

Architecture is everything that surrounds us; it is the framework of life. From big scale plans to tangible design, in small scale: it all has value.

That is why WE architecture is very focused on what kind of life we create and who it is being created for, so that the designs are as conscious and precise as possible. We’ve all heard it said: “clothes make the man” or “fine feathers

make fine birds,” well, in the same way good architecture make good societies.

WE stand for the idea that we all have a voice in the creation of our projects. We have a flat organization with a culture that invites internal criticism in an open discussion forum. With a young dynamic team of Danish and foreign architects, we make it an important part of the working process that everybody has a voice.

This input questions cultural habits that are attached to design and use. It’s all about being open-minded. The vision is to get people’s skills in words, models, pictures, concept and design to blend together, swirling around one idea.

Pillars of the studio are hard work, responsible employees and a strong commitment. Apart from that, we believe in a multidisciplinary and methodical process in which repetition and detailed analyses set the stage for an almost playful approach to the any projects presented.

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Mariehøj Culture Centre Holte, Denmark

COLLABORATORS: Sophus Søbye Arkitekter, MASU Planning, Ă˜llgaard Consulting Engineer, Spangenberg & Madsen Consulting Engineer, Hausenberg

The world is constantly changing; planning, architecture and design are catalysts for the future. Always remember: good architecture pays off!

What inspires you? To what extent do other creative fields influence your architectural work? Can you be inspired by fashion, for example?

I think that all creative fields, like art, fashion, music and architecture are a result of trends in society. The creative world is a result of the time we live in and the challenges we face in society. WE architecture is inspired by everything that surrounds us. We find inspiration in art, fashion and music.

For example: when a crisis hits society, you tend to see a trend in architecture, art and fashion with more simple and toned-down shape/form language. During a financial boom, you see more expressive form language.

Today you see a focus on sustainability which influences art, fashion, architecture and many creative fields.

How would you describe Danish design and architecture right now? Why do you think that Danish design, and especially Danish architecture, is so popular around the world right now?

There is a big focus on Danish design and architecture these days. In my mind, it is defined by two things. The first is the tradition of simplicity, minimalism and good natural robust materials. The second is that the new generation of architects in Denmark takes social responsibility seriously. It is not enough to create good houses; buildings should also give something back to the city and surroundings.

What would you say is the greatest challenge in the future for architects working in Copenhagen/Denmark/Scandinavia?

'T-magi' tea shop Copenhagen, Denmark

How do we, as architects, design buildings to fit future ways of living? How do we deal with big challenges such as sustainability, climate changes and urbanization?

It forces us to look at new ways of thinking about and designing architecture. I think the big challenge for architects is to keep on trying to answer these questions and to challenge the way we look at society and architecture in general.

What is your favorite area(s) in Copenhagen and why? Do you have a favorite building?

Boat House Kalundborg, Denmark

The fantastic thing about Copenhagen is the diversity of the city, especially the areas where the city and nature meet. From Langebro and Knippelsbro you have the view along the waterfront and along the city. At night, the buildings are lit up and reflect in the water. You can see a deer on AmagerfĂŚlled and five minutes afterwards be at RĂĽdhuspladsen.

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RUNE FISKER - THE ROOM Rune Fisker's abstract, surrealist style plays with geometries, line, and tone.

The result are subconscious scenes where characters of distorted proportions entangle with phantom scenes hinged between fiction and reality. His drawings are inspired by the scenography of everyday life and the chaos in his own life after the birth of his twins. runefisker.com instagram.com/rfisker

SPRING SUMMER 2016 BELLA CENTER COPENHAGEN 5 - 7 AUGUST 2015

CIFF.DK