Grand Rapids Magazine July/August 2021

Page 104

Gaia Café's famous Mean Green Burrito.

Restaurant revival TABLE

Gaia Café is cooking once again thanks to Andrea Bumstead’s determination. BY CHARLSIE DEWEY

// PHOTOS BY BRYAN ESLER

After nearly seven years, Gaia Café is once again serving guests its famous veggie hash and Mean Green Burritos. Andrea Bumstead, a former Gaia Café employee, reopened the restaurant in the Creston neighborhood this past winter. She overcame several obstacles to bring the beloved former East Hills restaurant back to life in the new setting. In 1982, KC Caliendo opened Gaia Café in the East Hills neighborhood as a place for artists and community activists to come together. “It was just this slim little space where they passed around the coffee pot and sang songs and told stories. That’s how it started,” Bumstead said. A couple of years later, Rick Van Dam took over ownership of Gaia and added a small vegetarian and vegan menu, turning the café into a local eatery with a unique menu. Over the years, Gaia built a loyal following with regulars returning weekend after weekend. It was a popular spot that often had a waitlist. People would mill about on the sidewalk in front of the building with coffee in hand until their coveted table was ready. Inside, the restaurant 102

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