Land of Enchantment
New Mexico’s scenic byways are no longer a local secret and are surprisingly accessible from all compass points
Leaving Sweet Chicago
It’s not hard to have a good time in the Windy City, and you’ll love how easy it is to find fun outside of The Loop
A Weekend Getaway
Take a trip to the gem of the Midwest, Kansas City, Missouri, home to the best football team in all the land
Road Trip g e t t i n g t h e r e i s as i m p orta n t as b e i n g there
with interstate batteries and ntb
WINDING AROUND WINE COUNTRY Our national search for the best vineyards in America decanted these top spots
The Thomas and Judith Beckmen Estate Vineyard in Los Olivos, California
the premiere issue
WANDER MORE, WORRY LESS.
Ready for another road trip? Make sure your vehicle is too with America’s #1 replacement battery brand.* Before you hit the road, get yourself an Interstate.®
©2020 Interstate Batteries | *Brand equity study 2019
Chicago skyline at sunset as you head out of town.
24 WINDY CITY DRIVES
From quick day trips to overnight and weekend adventures, here are the best places to play, dine and stay close to Chicago.
32 WINDING THROUGH WINE COUNTRY
Get a deep sense of the terroir and flavor of America’s diverse wine regions with these road trip itineraries that go beyond the tasting room.
38 A MULTIGENERATIONAL DRIVE OUT WEST
Inspired by the landscape and a love for green chiles, one family revisits the canyon roads and mountain climbs that make for a magical trip to New Mexico.
04 | A MOVEABLE FEAST Snap a selfie at larger-than-life shrines to regional cuisine and stop for lunch at these delicious detours. 06 | HACK MY RIDE Simple tricks to help restore that new car smell—and look—using products you already have around the house. 07 | TRAINING WHEELS Cars, kids and (no) complaints? Try these tips and games to keep everyone entertained on your next road trip. 08 | HIGHWAY GOURMET Celebrity Chef David Burke shares his makeahead recipes that will have the carpool asking for your advice. PHOTO CHECUBUS/SHUTTERSTOCK
09 | DIY CHECKS & BALANCES These important tests and at-home tips will help keep your car running smoothly between tune ups. 11 | MECHANIC'S CORNER Industry technicians talk repairs, road trips and what customers should check before going to the shop. roadtrip-magazine.com
13 | THEN & NOW Coney Island’s world famous amusement district continues to thrill visitors with new rides and attractions. 14 | THE LAP OF LUXURY Treat yourself—and your furry best friend— to noteworthy perks and services at these pet-friendly resorts. 16 | WEEKEND GETAWAY Find art, beats and incredible eats in the home of the 2020 Super Bowl champions: Kansas City, Missouri. 17 | LISTEN UP Podcast picks and audible books that cover everything from health issues to history to Harry Potter. 18 | NOT-SO-DOOMED TO REPEAT IT Lindsay Graham, the host of American History Tellers and American Elections: Wicked Game, is making podcast history.
20 | LIFE ON WHEELS New York Times bestselling author and travel writer Paula Froelich gives her must-have list for the ultimate road trip. 21 | SOMETHING'S GOTTA GIVE The famous 26-foot statue of Hollywood icon Marilyn Monroe finds a forever home in California. 22 | THE FAST & THE CURIOUS The Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum, recently deemed the greatest car collection in the world, is a must-see for auto lovers. 44 | TRAVEL-SCOPE Taurus? Leo? Gemini? Read your road trip personality and where to travel based on your Zodiac sign. 46 | HEALTH TIPS Whether you’re in the car or at a rest stop, these situational stretches will help keep the kinks at bay. 48 | NO NEED TO SKI WHEN YOU HAVE SEDONA A recent trip to Arizona shows one writer the power of change during travel. Road Trip | 1
Road Trip
What Drives Us
CONTRIBUTORS
Crai S. Bower, Anthony Calvert, Pete Freedman, Garrett Golightly, Tyler Hicks, Mike Jacobsen, Tom McNamee, Bratislav Milenkovic, Jill K. Robinson, Brian Smith
offers right outside your car windows. In essence, we want you to consider spending your free time in your vehicle—instead of avoiding it—en route to a special destination, even if it’s not too far from your home. We want the “getting there” to be as memorable as the “being there.” In this premiere issue of Road Trip magazine, we are celebrating you—the driver— and the road laid out before you. From podcasts and audiobooks for everyday errands to crosscountry road trip itineraries, buckle up for the best destinations, roadside attractions and pit stops across the United States. But before you set your Maps app and pack the snacks, remember that successful road trips begin with the vehicle itself. You won’t get far without routine maintenance— checking the fluids, tires and alignment—and the pros at Interstate Batteries, the leader in automotive batteries with an estimated 50 million batteries on the road today, recommend a battery check before any trip (more trip advice on page 9). In addition to vehicle maintenance, Road Trip features tips, tricks and industry secrets from auto professionals that will help keep your car running smoothly between tuneups (page 11). We hope this issue will inspire you to connect with your carpool in a new way and discover—or rediscover—the spirit of the open road. To quote the famous poet T.S. Eliot: “The journey not the arrival matters.” We’re going on a journey: We’re taking a road trip! Wanna come?
PRESIDENT/GROUP PUBLISHER
Adam Pitluk CEO
Kimberly Ferrante EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Jacquelyne Froeber CREATIVE DIRECTOR
David Halloran COPY EDITOR
MaryAnn Martin ABOUT MIDWEST LUXURY PUBLISHING Midwest Luxury Publishing is a full-service communications outfit made up of experienced industry experts. We are your turnkey provider for all your communications and publishing needs.
CONTACT THE PUBLISHER
info@midwestluxurypublishing.com midwestluxurypublishing.com 972.378.4845
PRESIDENT AND CEO
Scott Miller
EVP AND CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER
Tyler Reeves
VICE PRESIDENT NATIONAL SALES
Ken Wilcox
NATIONAL ACCOUNTS MANAGER
Teri Thomas Mahoney
CHANNEL MARKETING MANAGER
Sonia Angobaldo
All material is strictly copyright protected and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Road Trip are not necessarily those of Midwest Luxury Publishing, and Midwest Luxury Publishing does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any images supplied are at the owner’s risk and are the property of the owner. Printed in the USA
Teri Thomas Mahoney Editor-in-Chief 2 | Road Trip
ON THE COVER Michigan City Lighthouse: Jaclyn Novak/Shutterstock Thomas and Judy Beckmen Estate Vineyard: Beckmen Vineyards Rio Grande Gorge: Adam Springer/Shutterstock
roadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTO DAVID HALLORAN
hit the open road for an adventure? Played a rousing game of “Name That Tune” with friends? Cleaned your car to impress a loved one? Or, when was the last time you looked forward to getting in your car and just cruising around from spot to spot like you did when you first got your driver’s license? Transportation is literally the key to some of life’s most cherished moments. At Interstate Batteries, we not only know this, but we (and our strategic partners) spend our days making sure your cherished moments do not include concern for your car or any of the travel-associated obstacles standing between you and your final destination. In the same vein, we car people have a different view of travel and of the open road than perhaps any other specialized group of voyagers. That’s because our lives and livelihoods are wrapped up in making sure your time behind the wheel is enjoyable. We want you to not only relish your ride, but to appreciate the aesthetic beauty this country when was the last time you
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Teri Thomas Mahoney
PHOTO L I G H T P O E T/SHUTTERSTOCK
THE BEST ROAD TRIPS, TRAVEL TRICKS AND VEHICLE TIPS AHEAD
roadtrip-magazine.com
Road Trip | 3
PHOTOS KRISTI BLOKHIN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; COURTESY DUBLIN, OHIO CVB
A Moveable Feast Snap a selfie and stop for lunch at these delicious detours across the U.S. By Jacquelyne Froeber
Pronto Pup, World’s Biggest Corn Dog 602 s. highway 101, rockaway beach, oregon
As Pronto Pup legend goes, the corn dog was invented in Rockaway Beach in the 1930s. The pancake-batter based “buns” were created to withstand the rain (genius!), and in 2016, The Original Pronto Pup opened for business with a 30-foot fiberglass corn dog on the roof. You can’t miss it. Another can’t-miss moment: Riding the mechanical corn dog inside the restaurant. hungry? So many pups, so little time at The Original Pronto Pup. Need veggies? Try the zucchini-battered pup. Traditionalist? The Original Pup is 100 percent beef. Note: Restaurant hours are seasonal. originalprontopup.com
The World’s Largest Pistachio 7320 hwy 54/70, alamogordo, new mexico
Bust out of your shell at Pistachioland, aka McGinn Pistachio Tree Ranch. Here, a 30-foot “world famous” pistachio stands in tribute to founder Tom McGinn for his dedication to growing pistachios in the desert. The working family farm sells 25 unique blends in burlap bags and serious candies including Atomic Hot Chili Pistachio Brittle in the on-site country store. The Arena Blanca Winery is also part of the 111-acre ranch; motorized tours of the orchards and vineyards are from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. pistachioland.com hungry? Stop in at Yum Yums, a 15-minute drive north to Tularosa (look for the small stand-alone restaurant with a smiling doughnut painted on the exterior). Inside, New Mexican fry bread and giant burritos are favorites, but save room for a hand-cut fresh doughnut—or take as many as you can for the road. facebook.com/yumyumstulie2001 4 | Road Trip
roadtrip-magazine.com
Field of Corn (with Osage orange trees) 4995 rings road, dublin, ohio
Food for thought: In 1994, Ohio artist Malcolm Cochran unveiled 109 human-sized ears of corn in a popular field (now Frantz Park) as an homage to the community’s farming legacy and also a memorial to rural landscapes. Sam Frantz, a key inventor of hybrid corn, farmed the land where each stark, white concrete ear, weighing 1,500 pounds, is anchored in the ground. dublinarts.org hungry? The Dublin Village Tavern, a five-minute drive northeast, feels like stepping into your favorite watering hole on The Emerald Isle. Authentic simmered corned beef with a grilled Irish banger? Ta, please! thedublinvillagetavern.com
Lenny the Life-Size Chocolate Moose 419 us highway 1, scarborough, maine
The self-proclaimed “World’s Only Life-Size Chocolate Moose” resides along Route 1 inside Len Libby Candies. Sweet Lenny is 1,700 pounds of milk chocolate and has been a resident gatekeeper since 1997. To bring the spirit of Lenny home with you, Lenny Moose chocolates and other gourmet treats are available in the shop. lenlibby.com hungry? Travel five minutes south to the ’50s-style eatery, Blast From the Past Too Diner. Homemade meatloaf, shepherd’s pie and other comfort staples taste just like mom’s cooking. Note: BYOAC (Bring Your Own Antique Car). blastfromthepastdiner.com
Peachoid Water Tower i-85 between exits 90 and 92, gaffney, south carolina
It’s a bird! It’s a plane! It’s … a peach? Insta-darling Peachoid Water Tower, also simply called “The Peach,” is an easy photo op off I-85. The 135-foot water tower resembling the juicy fruit was commissioned by the Gaffney Board of Public Works in 1981 and most recently saw a surge in popularity after being seen in the Netflix drama House of Cards. gbpw.com hungry? Fatz Café, just steps from the Peachoid, serves up a Calabash twist on Southern cuisine. Chicken, shrimp, pickles—pretty much everything you want—are buttermilk brined for 24 hours and fried golden brown. Also impressive are the award-winning baby back ribs, scratch-made soups and homemade dressing. fatz.com roadtrip-magazine.com
Road Trip | 5
Hack My Ride These simple tricks will help restore that new car smell—and look—using products you already have around the house. By Jacquelyne Froeber Toothpaste Rubbing alcohol
Apply to windshield wipers to keep the glass smudge-free.
Scrub headlights in a circular motion using a clean rag and a dollop of toothpaste (any kind) to clear cloudy and scuffed surfaces.
Stockings
Down a windshield wiper blade? Wrap a pair of women’s stockings tightly around the arm—so the metal won’t scratch the glass—for a temporary fix before a replacement.
Olive oil
Add a few drops of olive oil on a coffee filter and wipe over the dashboard to eliminate dust and grime. The oil will help restore shine, and over time, make your dash less likely to crack.
Laundry balls
Add 1/4 cup of scented laundry balls to a mason jar and cover with a mesh lid (or poke holes using a thumb tack) and store in the cup holder or under the seat for that freshfrom-thedryer smell.
Baking soda
To neutralize and absorb odor, sprinkle on carpet and upholstery, leave for 20 minutes and vacuum.
Essential oil
Add five drops of your favorite essential oil directly onto a clothespin and store in a plastic bag. Clip on air vent for a subtle aroma.
Clear nail polish
For a small chip or crack in a window, apply a thin layer over the damage inside and outside. This may help the crack from growing.
6 | Road Trip
Newspaper
ANTHONY CALVERT
To remove window/bumper stickers, place a piece of warm, damp newspaper over the sticker for about 15 minutes and voilà! It’s yesterday’s news. roadtrip-magazine.com
BRATISLAV MILENKOVIC
Training Wheels Cars, kids and (no) complaints? Try these tips and tricks to keep everyone entertained on your next road trip. By Kimberly Ferrante
the family road trip is supposed to be exactly that: A family on the open road, enjoying time together as they go from Point A to Point B. A well-prepared traveler with children will have a toolbox of abstract and concrete tactics at their disposal that go above and beyond electronics (other than a car stereo/ SiriusXM radio). In order to stave off the dreaded whines and moans in transit, the most important thing is to keep all members of the family fed and watered. (See our road-warrior tested and approved snacks on page 8.) Once everyone is no longer “hangry,” you can be sure to get giggles with the following games: Warm up with an Alphabet Round of “A - my name is Adam and my sister’s name is Agatha and we live in Alabama where we sell Apples.” You do this all the way through the alphabet taking turns. A fun spin on this is to pick a theme such as camping or Disney where every turn reflects the theme. Add-on Storytelling is also fun. One person starts a story, with just a line or two, then stops mid-sentence. The next person picks up the story with a few more lines and so on. No one can negate someone roadtrip-magazine.com
else's idea, only build on it. The stories always go in crazy directions, good for a laugh. Name That Tune is a classic that gets teens involved as well. Turn the radio on or put your Spotify/Amazon Music on shuffle. Whoever can shout out the name of the song first, wins. (Be sure to cover your screen if it says the song names as they play.) Since things are going so well, why don’t you throw some learning into the games? Try Roadway Math. When on the highway, quiz your kids using the roadside mile-markers. For example, when you see a giant billboard for a Cracker Barrel at Exit 351, calculate the approximate distance to that exit based upon the next mile marker you see. For the longer hauls see page 17 for Podcasts or Audible books the whole family will enjoy. If all else fails, or if you’re driving cross-country, you may want to prepare a Dollar Store goody bag that has small gifts for each kid. Each hour (or two) you can have them reach in to select one. This keeps them looking forward to the next grab time and you can include things like new markers, a Mad Libs pad, a deck of cards or a book. If you’re crafty you can make your own portable Lego board. Use an old, cleaned out Altoids tin and glue a Lego plate to the inside of the lid or on the outside top and include blocks using the inside of the tin for storage. This allows them to play Legos on the go without them getting all over the car. PRO TIP Purchase backseat pouches for easy access to games, crafts and other boredom busters.
Road Trip | 7
Highway Gourmet Celebrity chef David Burke’s make-ahead recipes offer a sophisticated twist on snacking.
Peanut Butter Maple Bacon Dates
life on the road. From collecting James Beard awards in New York City to opening restaurants in Colorado and California, Burke says you have to get creative when noshing on the go. Here are two of his favorite make-ahead recipes that will have the carpool calling you “chef.”
Chef David Burke
chefdavidburke.com
Vegetable Fritters • • • • • • • • • • •
2 cups shredded zucchini 1 tablespoon grated ginger 2 cups shredded carrots 2 cloves garlic, minced 2/3 cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1/3 cup sliced scallions 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon pepper Sour cream or yogurt
Place the shredded zucchini in a colander and sprinkle it lightly with salt. Let the zucchini sit for 10 minutes, then using your hands, squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Transfer the zucchini to a large bowl and add the carrots, garlic, flour, eggs, scallions, ginger, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Stir the mixture until combined. Line a plate with paper towels. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add olive oil. Once the oil is shimmering, scoop 3-tablespoon mounds of the vegetable mixture into the pan, flattening the mounds slightly and spacing them 1 inch apart. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes then flip them once and continue cooking an additional 1 to 2 minutes until they’re golden brown and crispy. Serve with sour cream or yogurt on the side. 8 | Road Trip
PRO TIP Pack items in a paper towel-lined cooler without ice for transporting.
In a nonstick skillet, heat peanuts, honey and cayenne pepper until caramelized; cool and purée in a blender or food processor. Cut dates in half and remove seeds. Stuff purée into each date half and place back together. Wrap with half piece of bacon. Broil dates until bacon is crisp, about 2 minutes. In a small bowl, lightly beat egg. Run grapes under water, dredge in flour, dip in egg wash and dredge in breadcrumbs. Place into a deep fryer filled with hot oil and fry until crispy. (Alternately, bake on a baking sheet in a 350-degree oven for 5 minutes.) Using toothpicks, skewer a single grape, then a bacon-wrapped date. Repeat until all grapes and dates are used. Serve with maple syrup on the side for dipping.
roadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTOS DAVID HALLORAN (2); SUSAN MEZZULO
chef david burke is no stranger to
• 1⁄4 pound peanuts • 5 tablespoons honey • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1⁄2 jalapeño, minced • 20 medjool dates, halved • 10 strips smoked bacon, par-cooked (cooked to about halfway done) • 20 seedless grapes • 1 egg • Flour, for dredging • Breadcrumbs, for dredging • 20 toothpicks
Our creative director knows a thing or two about proper maintenance checks before hitting the road
DIY Checks & Balances These important tests and tips will keep your car running smoothly outside the shop. By Jacquelyne Froeber
PHOTOS DAVID HALLORAN; PETE LACKER/INTERSTATE BATTERIES
as the adage goes: There are no guarantees in life except
taxes and tune ups. OK, we made that last part up, but it’s true that all vehicles will need professional care at some point. You can, however, prolong your vehicle’s health and reduce the odds of the dreaded breakdown with these simple checks and tests.
BATTERY
The average battery lasts anywhere from three to five years. Factors like extreme heat or cold affect the battery life, and when it wears out, the engine will not run and you’ll be stuck. To avoid being that person on the side of the road, self-check your battery level twice a year and pay attention to the turn over: If your car is slow to start, you may have a low battery. One simple check you can do in your driveway: Start your car and turn on the headlights. If you rev the engine and the lights get brighter, odds are the battery is on its way out. roadtrip-magazine.com
Road Trip | 9
OIL
Check your oil level at least once a month. Oil helps pretty much everything run smoothly and it also helps cool the engine. Without oil, the engine will seize and lock up. Luckily, it’s easy to check: With the engine off, locate the oil dipstick (look for the colored handle), remove it from the tube and wipe it clean with a paper towel. Dip the rod back into the tube, remove it and note the level. If it’s below minimum, add oil. Note: A professional oil change is recommended every 3,000 miles for conventional motor oil and every 7,000 miles with synthetic motor oil.
Like the human body, your car needs H2O to go. Water helps keep the engine cool and reduces the risk of overheating. To check the level, make sure the engine is cold and find the coolant reservoir. The level should be between minimum and maximum. Add from the tap if you’re low or buy a bottle if you’re checking while on the road.
BELTS
Oh snap: Your car belts can last up to 100,000 miles, but like your battery, they wear out over time, which can result in overheating, loss of power steering and stalling out. Most vehicles have one Serpentine belt—older models may have more than one—located on the engine. Check the belt every 6 months for frays, tears and cracks and if your air conditioning fails or you hear a squealing sound from the front of your vehicle, that’s your car telling you to take it to a NTB, Midas or a Big O Tires near you.
10 | Road Trip
roadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTOS ANTONIO GUILLEM/SHUTTERSTOCK; PORING STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK; CHARNSITR/SHUTTERSTOCK
WATER
TECH YEAR Mechanic's Corner NTB West Division Tech of the Year Chuck Haddad talks about his career in car repair. By Tyler Hicks
chuck haddad never expected to receive a phone call like this. “My first reaction was shock,” the veteran technician says, laughing. “I never thought I’d get any recognition like this.” Haddad, a technician at National Tire and Battery service center in Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio, is referring to the Technician of the Year award he received in late 2019. “There is hardly any recognition for us in this field,” Haddad says. “Techs, managers, even the shops themselves don’t get noticed. So this was special.” Haddad, alongside four other TBC Corporation techs (the parent company of National Tire and Battery), were picked from more than 250,000 certified techs for this prestigious award. But ultimately, Haddad’s biggest satisfaction is seeing people walk out of his NTB with smiles on their faces. “At the end of the day, that’s why we do it,” he says. Road Trip sat down with Haddad for more on his career, cars and the customers he is proud to serve.
“There’s a dealership on every
corner here in Ohio, but there’s not a shop like ours on every corner.” How long have you been with NTB?
I’ve been with NTB for 12 years and I love the freedom we have to fix anything and everything. There’s a dealership on every corner here in Ohio, but there’s not a shop like ours on every corner. What makes your shop different?
We can fix all kinds of cars, and we can do it at a good price. I wouldn’t have that freedom if I worked at a dealership, and customers might not get that experience if they took their car to the dealership. Tell us the No. 1 thing you wish customers knew before bringing in their car.
Sometimes things take time, and when your car is with us, we like to take our time with it. It may not be an immediate fix, but your safety and your car’s well-being are our biggest priorities. Lastly, if you could be any car, what model would you be and why?
I’d be a 1987 Buick Grand National GNX because it was the fastest car in production that year.
Did you grow up in Ohio? How did you get started in the auto industry?
I was born and raised here in Ohio, in the Akron area. As for getting started in this industry, that’s a funny story. It was 2000, and I was standing in line at the University of Akron waiting to pay tuition. I saw a flyer for a job fixing cars, and I thought, “Hey, I like cars. Maybe I can do that?” road trip
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TECH YEAR Mechanic's Corner NTB Southeast Division Technician of the Year Tim Creech talks cars and customer care. By Tyler Hicks
“People may think we just want to overcharge them, but the truth is we do this because we love to fix
being a technician can be a thankless job. Customers
come and go, and sometimes they carry misconceptions about why techs do the work they do. “People may think we want to overcharge them, but the truth is we do this because we love to fix cars,” says Tim Creech, technician for National Tire and Battery (NTB). Creech is one of five technicians from TBC Corporation (the parent company of NTB) to be awarded Technician of the Year by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). The winners were chosen from more than 250,000 ASE-certified technicians across the United States, and were recognized for their certification level, commitment to customer satisfaction and involvement in their communities. Road Trip caught up with Creech to talk about cars, his career and why good customer care is so important. How did you get started in the auto industry?
My dad was in the army, so we moved around a lot when I was a kid. Eventually, I settled down here in Williamsburg, Virginia. As for my beginning in the auto industry, that’s kind of a funny story: I was a lazy high school kid, sitting on my couch, and one day my dad told me, “Get a job.” So, I did. And I’ve been working on cars ever since. What made you apply for that first job fixing cars?
I always loved cars, and it seemed like it would be fun. I never thought I’d be doing it forever, but here we are. I’m lucky enough to be in a place where I get to do what I like and make people happy. 12 |
road trip
cars. Any time you come to see us, we’re always thinking about how we can send you out the door happy.” Is that your favorite part of the job?
Absolutely. That’s our job, you know? To make sure people get fixed what they need to get fixed. If they walk out feeling relieved, we know we’ve done our job right. Tell us the No. 1 thing you wish customers knew before bringing in their car.
That we’re not just in it for the money. People may think we just want to overcharge them, but the truth is we do this because we love to fix cars. Any time you come to see us, we’re always thinking about how we can send you out the door happy. Lastly, if you were any car, what model would you be and why?
A ’67 Shelby GT 500. The body lines are beautiful, and it comes with a lot of power. I’m pretty and I’m powerful. You can’t beat that.
Municipal Baths, circa 1912
Then & Now PHOTOS WEBERJAKE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; SUSAN LAW CAIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Coney Island’s world famous amusement district continues to thrill visitors with new attractions. By Jacquelyne Froeber in 1912, thousands of beach goers
traveled to the public bathhouse on the shore of Coney Island in Brooklyn, New York, for the opportunity to splash in the ocean for a modest fee. A lot has changed from the scene in the vintage postcard above, like the not-so-water-friendly swimsuit stockings. Still, the image captures the summertime spirit found in the neighborhood even today. Coney Island’s nearly 3 miles of sandy shoreline is free to the public, and the famous boardwalk and surrounding amusement parks boast yesteryear favorites like the Cyclone— one of the country’s oldest operating roller coasters—and new attractions including a zip line, steel roller coaster and open-air entertainment area opening this year. lunaparknyc.com coney island
roadtrip-magazine.com
Luna B
each, 2
020
Road Trip | 13
The Lap of Luxury Treat yourself—and your best friend—to new and noteworthy amenities at these posh resorts. By Jacquelyne Froeber
Windsor Court Hotel
If your dog loves looking out the window at home, wait until he/she checks in at the Windsor Court Hotel. The recent $15 million renovation added private balconies and bay windows for stunning views of the Mississippi River and the city skyline. Upon arrival, dog beds and specialty treats will be waiting for your pup. The hotel is only one block from the French Quarter, so if your brunch is turning into an all day affair, ask the concierge for pet sitting and walking options. Rates start at $300. Pet fee: $150 for dogs up to 40 pounds, two pets per room, per stay. windsorcourthotel.com
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PHOTO COURTESY WINDSOR COURT
new orleans, louisiana
Peninsula Hotel
beverly hills, california
In the heart of America’s most glamorous ZIP code, the elegant Peninsula Hotel recently completed a refresh of the 195-guestrooms, suites and villas. Before you pull up to the valet, call the hotel to set up beds, bowls and treats for your dog or cat. And you don’t have to go far to pamper yourself: The brand-new spa features a pink Himalayansalt crystal wall said to help recharge after a long day of travel. Rates start at $595. Pet fee: $35 per pet (limit two), per night, no weight restriction. peninsula.com
Shinola Hotel
detroit, michigan
When the Shinola Hotel opened last year, fans of the luxury brand were delighted to find the accommodations were similar to their cherished timepieces—thoughtful, stylish and undeniably Detroit. Situated in the heart of downtown, loft-style rooms outfitted with midcentury accents boast impressive views of the city. Let the staff know what size dog bed before you arrive, and your best friend will feel right at home with his/her food and water bowl and welcome treats. You may even find new friends at the dog lawn on the terrace of the fourth floor. Rates start at $205. No pet fee or weight restrictions. Waiver must be signed on arrival. shinolahotel.com Hotel Viking
newport, rhode island
STUART THURLKILL
PHOTOS COURTESY HOTEL VIKING; NICOLE FRANZEN; STUART THURLKILL; COURTESY PARK HYATT
The 1926 Hotel Viking is a beacon of glamour in Newport’s historic Hill neighborhood. Inside, the lavish guest rooms and suites were recently renovated, but you’ll still find historic touches throughout the property starting with the original brass letter box in the lobby. Suites adorned with Queen Anne furnishings channel the sophistication of Newport’s surrounding mansions, and guest rooms blend old-world style with the latest tech amenities. Two outdoor restaurants (seasonal) cater to dining with your furry friend, and the hotel recently partnered with Lucky Dog Resort for deals on doggy daycations including chauffeured service to and from the resort. Rates start at $250. Pet fee: $100 for animals up to 85 pounds, two max per room, per stay, per pet. Waiver must be signed on arrival. hotelviking.com
The Resort at Paws Up greenough, montana
Proper Hotel austin, texas
Interior designer Kelly Wearstler puts a modern twist on historic Craftsman style at this new boutique property in the trendy Second Street District. Rooms boast earthy tones, textured prints and a mix of local wood and stone accents. The hotel’s Proper Pet policy welcomes pups with food, water bowls and treats. Proper is also a good home base for exploring neighborhood patios and nearby parks. Rates start at $300. Pet fee: $100 for dogs up to 35 pounds, two max, per stay; a portion of the fee goes to the Best Friends Animal Society. properhotel.com
Love the outdoors? You and your pup will probably give this resort two paws up. The 28 pet-friendly luxury homes are surrounded by timber trees, mountains and rolling pasture (the majestic backdrop was the site of the movie A River Runs Through It). Western-chic accommodations offer world-class perks like a chef’s kitchen and a personal Lexus. Pets also get the star treatment with signature beds, locally-made treats and a welcome card from the owner’s dog, Coco. New wilderness adventures, including pet-friendly hikes, are included with the rental. Rates start at $450 per person, per night. Pet fee: $50 per pet, per night. pawsup.com Park Hyatt Aviara Resort, Golf Club & Spa
carlsbad, california
Roll down the car windows and feel the coastal breeze: The drive to Park Hyatt Aviara winds past the Batiquitos Lagoon in the quaint seaside town of Carlsbad, known for its famous Flower Fields. At the hotel, you’re just steps (and a set of stairs) to the water to dip your paws in the surf, and a paved pathway is perfect for walks overlooking the shore. Dog beds and an Aviara ID tag are provided, and you won’t need a doggy bag here: Pets are welcome at the restaurant patio areas. Rates start at $300. Pet fee: $150 for up to 75 pounds combined, two dogs max, per stay. Reservations for pets must be made at least three days in advance. hyatt.com roadtrip-magazine.com
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Weekend Getaway
Kansas City, Missouri All roads lead to art, beats and incredible eats in the City of Fountains. By Jacquelyne Froeber
you wanting more—more barbecue, more art and more time to explore. With not a second to waste, here’s where to dine, play and stay during a weekend getaway. kansas city
kansas city is one of those towns that leaves
Home Base: Checking in at the 21c Museum Hotel Kansas City feels like you’re Ben Stiller in Night at the Museum. Surrounded by contemporary art, keep on the lookout for the life-size Sky Blue Penguin—the color an homage to the vast Midwest horizon—that seems to pop up where you least expect it around the property. Plush rooms and suites feature original artwork and the free, on-site museum supports local and rotating exhibits. Rates start at $130. Play: For more creative inspiration, the Nelson-Atkins Museum boasts a 22-acre sculpture park in addition to 35,000 works, including iconic pieces from Adolph Gottlieb and Jackson Pollock, inside the museum. 16 | Road Trip
For take-home talent, the Crossroads Arts District has 70 galleries and shops (the KC Heart T-shirts in Charlie Hustle are a perfect souvenir). Up for a little competition? The experts in the art of lager and ale at the Boulevard Brewing Co. recently opened the Rec Deck for shuffleboard enthusiasts and—of course—for sampling award-winning brews. At night, check out the lineup at the historic 1927 Arvest Bank Theatre at The Midland for live entertainment. Next door, The Indie on Main lounge caters to concertgoers before and after shows; there’s DJ music on Thursday and karaoke Friday and Saturday. Dine: Ricotta pancakes and homemade biscuits are just a short walk from 21c at Banksia. For lunch, brunch, snacks, dinner—you want to work in as much quality time with KC barbecue as possible. We like Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que for brisket; the award-winning Q39 for the burnt ends burger; Arthur Bryant’s for ribs; Slap’s BBQ for chicken and sausage. Stay in at the 21c and sip a martini made with Midwestern gin in the booth where President Truman sat in The Savoy at 21c bar. In the dining room, Chef Joe West, a KC native, serves up Midwest soul. Our favorite is heritage pork roast, “not quite like how mom made it,” with cardamom-coffee and smoked Missouri pears. roadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTOS COURTESY OF 21C MUSEUM HOTELS (2); MICHAEL ROBINSON; FREELAND PHOTOGRAPHY; BONJWING LEE
Luxury King room inside 21c Museum Hotel Kansas City; inside the Arvest Bank Theatre at The Midland; brisket at Joe's Kansas City BBQ; Boulevard Brewing Co.
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Listen Up
Who says you can’t multitask while driving? These podcasts and audible books cover everything from health issues to Harry Potter. By Kimberly Ferrante
PODCAST
When not listening to music, listen about music. Broken Record, by Malcolm Gladwell and Rick Rubin, interviews world-class musicians to discuss their music, lives and inspiration. The Doctor’s Farmacy with Mark Hyman provides the latest in integrative health and nutrition studies. Dr. Hyman is also the medical director at the Cleveland Clinic’s Center for Functional Medicine. Get inspired on your way to work with TED Talks Business. Learn and hear from some of the world’s most successful entrepreneurs, innovators and researchers as they share their insights. TED is a nonprofit devoted to ideas worth spreading. Need to find your happy place? Dear Anxiety by Go Zen!, hosted by Ed Crasnick, a comedian and Emmy Award-winning writer, and Renee Jain, positive psychology guru, is a show for all ages about the difficult emotions we all struggle with. Worry, anger, stress, perfectionism, body image: If you feel it, they talk about it.
PHOTO SAKSRI KONGKLA/SHUTTERSTOCK
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AUDIBLE
Great for longer, uninterrupted jaunts in the car. Are you hitting the road sans kids? Outlander (first in an eight-book series) by Diana Gabaldon will keep you enthralled for long trips. This series touches almost every genre with romance, adventure, mystery, historical fiction and even science fiction/fantasy. Highly addictive and highly recommended. For that decidedly different road trip with the family, you can’t go wrong with the classic tale of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, first in the seven-book series by J.K. Rowling. Even for those who have seen the movies or read the novels, the Audible books offer a different experience, transporting listeners to the world of Hogwarts wizardry and witches through Jim Dale’s phenomenal narration. If you are a daily commuter for 15 minutes or 50 minutes, you will laugh out loud listening to Born A Crime written and narrated by hilarious comedian Trevor Noah. His story of his childhood in South Africa is one of heartache and humor. Part therapist, part best friend, Glennon Doyle Melton’s Carry On, Warrior: Thoughts On Life Unarmed is incredibly funny and real. Glennon will take you through the often humorous and occasionally dark side of marriage, motherhood and addiction. You will hit the bookmark tab more than a few times on this one.
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Not-So-Doomed to Repeat It The host of American History Tellers, American Scandal and American Elections: Wicked Game is making podcast history. By Pete Freedman
when we catch him, lindsay graham—the podcaster, not
the politician (that one spells his first name with an “e”)—has just stepped out of the recording studio in the back of his East Dallas home. “It was for the latest episode of American History Tellers,” he shares. These days, Graham could be talking about any of his three historyfocused shows, all of which regularly rank within the top 20 of iTunes’ history podcast charts: The aforementioned American History Tellers as well as American Scandal and American Elections: Wicked Game. Just a couple years ago, Graham, a self-professed audio nerd, mostly worked in his home studio space at night, using it as a place to record area rock bands while he put his Southern Methodist University MBA to use during the nine-to-five grind. However, when cutbacks put him out of his marketing job, he started to look at the studio more seriously as a way to support his growing family, pulling any audio thread he could in hopes of finding a new career on the other end. One string he pulled got him work reading ad copy for other peoples’ podcasts. That led to trying his hand at making his own shows, finally putting to use all the lessons he’d learned while pursuing audio as a hobby. An amateur history buff, he started with American History Tellers, which first posted on January 3, 2018, and then immediately shot to the top of the overall iTunes podcast charts. Yes, ahead of every other podcast in the world. “Yeah, that surprised the pants off of me,” Graham says. He never expected to become full-time podcaster. Turns out, though, he was really good at it; great at it, even. And the rest is history. We asked Graham to spill his secrets to podcasting success and the new project captivating history buffs on the road. What is your background in history?
The closest thing I have to a formal background in history is about three semesters as a history major at SMU. History has always been an interest of mine, if not a fully developed academic one. But it does conform to many of my personal interests—and also to my more philosophical side. Government, politics and history are vastly compelling subjects. 18 | Road Trip
Why does history lends itself so well to the podcasting medium?
Well, it’s inherently a story, right? It's a narrative. It's already written for you. All the twists and turns and the shocking that-can't-be-true things, they’re built in. Plus, history is the story of us. There is an immediate kinship to anything in the past—even if it's strange—if it's told the right way. Maybe you have no relationship to the ancient history of Vietnam or whatever. But if told well, then you understand that those were people and they had the same struggles and the same desires that you do. That's why history is so compelling.
“There is an immediate kinship to anything in the past—even if it's strange—if it's told the right way.” Tell us about your newest project, American Elections: Wicked Game.
As we approach the November 3, 2020, elections—and as I learned more about American history through my own shows—I realized that more people should know how the political climate in this country has always been, let’s say, complicated. This morass of incivility and outrage that we think we're in now? It’s just the same as it was in 1800. I thought it might make people feel better about the current conditions if they could see how, every four years for the last 300 years, pretty much, we have survived these same things. So: Has it made you feel better?
I think so. But we've only just begun with the series. Things get really nasty in the middle of the 19th century, and I’m really excited about diving into that. roadtrip-magazine.com
Lindsay Graham in his studio in East Dallas
PHOTO DAVID HALLORAN
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Life on Wheels
Travel expert Paula Froelich has taken the wheel around the world. Here’s her list of essentials for your next road trip. By Jacquelyne Froeber travel isn’t just part of the job for
PHOTO CIRCE HAMILTON
TRIP ADVICE editor and New York Times bestselling Pump the breaks when you’re author Paula Froelich—it’s in her DNA. tired. “I’ve Growing up in Cincinnati, Ohio, the Froelich napped in so many Cracker family would pile into their 1974 Dodge Dart Barrel parking Swinger and hit the road every chance they got. lots. Just pick a place that is well “No one took the great American road trip more established and seriously than my parents,” Froelich says. “I don’t rest when you need to.” even remember a plane until I was in my teens.” Froelich’s career wanderlust took her around the globe as the former editor-in-chief of Yahoo! Travel and founder of the video series A Broad Abroad focusing on solo adventure travel for women. Road Trip caught up with Froelich in New York City for her must-have list and tips for the ultimate road trip.
Drive Reach by weBoost, $499
The brand’s most powerful in-vehicle cell signal booster means you’re connected no matter where the road takes you. “This is my number one. I don’t like being out of the zone— I watch too much CSI: Crime Scene Investigation.” weboost.com Spotify, $9.99 per month
“I love radio—it gives you a sense of where you are—but sometimes on road trips you get stuck. Spotify playlist to the rescue!” spotify.com Twist Memory Foam Travel Pillow, $24.99
The twistable design contours to your body and takes up little space. “Unless you’re in a super expensive car, you’re going to need some memory foam for lumbar support.” amazon.com 20 | Road Trip
Sleep Master Sleep Mask, $25.90
“I’m obsessed. This mask is satin, you can wrap it around your head to block out breezes and there’s a blackout shade. Other companies offer similar models for more money, but this one for $25 is the best in the world.” amazon.com OXO Good Grips Large Thermal Travel Mug, $11.99
Three silicone seals and doublewall construction means you can toss it in the car and it won't leak or lose heat. “As a massive caffeine addict, this mug keeps coffee hot for hours.” oxo.com Ray Ban Aviator Classic, $203
These iconic sunglasses were made for U.S. aviators in 1937. “I’ve had mine forever. They take a lickin’ and keep on tickin.’” ray-ban.com roadtrip-magazine.com
Something's Got to Give The famous larger-than-life sculpture of Marilyn Monroe finds a forever home in Palm Springs. By Jacquelyne Froeber
talk about a traffic-stopper: The 26-foot statue
of Hollywood icon Marilyn Monroe, perpetually locked in the famous subway grate scene from The Seven Year Itch, is back in Palm Springs, California, following a whirlwind trip around the globe. “Forever Marilyn” was created by artist Seward Johnson and first arrived in Palm Springs on loan from the Sculpture Foundation in 2012. In 2014, the 16.5-ton aluminum and stainless steel statue was shipped to New Jersey for a retrospective on Johnson’s work, and later exhibited overseas in Bendigo, Australia. Most recently, drivers may have seen her sculpted gams as they traveled from Johnson’s studio on the East Coast to Palm Springs via flatbed truck. Why Palm Springs? As the story goes, Monroe was discovered poolside here by a talent agent in 1949 at Charles Farrell's Racquet Club compound. “Forever Marilyn” now resides at the Town and Country Center in downtown Palm Springs. visitgreaterpalmsprings.com palm springs
PHOTO GREGG FELSEN (2)
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A 1975 Alfa Romeo 33 TT 12 (front), 1937 Alfa Romeo 8c2900a (back right), 1933 Alfa Romeo 8c Monza (back left)
Dr. Fred Simeone gives life to the greatest car collection in the world at his museum in Philadelphia. By Crai S. Bower
voted the no. 1 car collection in the world by the
Classic Car Trust, the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum resides among a nondescript set of warehouses three miles from the Philadelphia International Airport. What you discover inside, however, is anything but ordinary: A vividly presented gallery housing more than 70 endurance race cars dating back to the 1910s. This is the collection of prominent Philadelphia neurosurgeon Dr. Fred Simeone. Unlike many auto depositories across America (more relic barns than interactive museums), Dr. Simeone’s largesse purrs like a well-tuned Ferrari engine, each vehicle framed in vivid backdrop and fronted by technical information and a comprehensive video that describes both the role of the celebrity auto gleaming before us and the exceptional endurance race in which it has starred. philadelphia
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Like the most vibrant galleries, curator Kevin Kelly constructs an active calendar featuring an impressive volume of pertinent exhibits to expand the educational experience within the 78,000-square-foot exhibit space. Far from a fancy car graveyard, the institution is very much a living museum. Select race cars are driven around the outside track on Demonstration Saturdays, part of a mandate that dictates the majority of the vehicles remain in running condition. “We have a three-acre track and all these cars are demonstrated,” Dr. Simeone says. “Driving them is the ultimate pleasure, especially if you are a little wacky like I am, and you pretend you’re a great driver of the ’30s. You’re driving this car and all of a sudden you take on a different Walter Mitty personality for a little while. Cars get cranky if you don’t run them periodically, so the demonstrations are also a way for us to keep the cars in shape.” Dr. Simeone’s passion for vintage endurance race cars began when, as a teenager, his father gifted him a broken-down Alfa Romeo 6C 2500. If he could fix it up, he could drive it. Though the Alfa never quite performed to expectations, Dr. Simeone had caught the auto restoration bug, next rebuilding an ancient Duesenberg race car from roadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTOS CRAI S. BOWER (3)
The Fast & The Curious
a pile of parts as a tribute to his father, who had recently passed away. Two Duesenberg experts and a former driver visited and declared the very vehicle Dr. Simeone restored had won the 1921 French Grand Prix. Dr. Simeone’s obsession was off to the races. “I happened to have a few bucks from my business and I would buy [a car] that I liked because I knew it was important,” he says. “Then finally it got to the point where people were saying, ‘Well, the world should see these things.’” And what a world to see: a 1927 Stutz AA Blackhawk Challenger, a 1954 Ferrari 375MM Spider and a 1970 Porsche 917 LH, all three designed for 24 Hours of Le Mans, the most famous endurance race in the world. The permanent Le Mans exhibit would leave a pedestrian speechless, a dozen or so shimmering cars, several washed in the brilliant red paint associated with Ferrari and Porsche vehicles. They reside in angled repose as if awaiting a swipe of the green flag. “These cars have to stay together, they tell a story,” Dr. Simeone says. “They evolved because they competed, because they had to win. They were driven to do better.” The “Spirit of Competition” remains the central tenet of this museum, the importance of doing better than before, a message Dr. Simeone believes is critical for all visitors, but especially students. Whether or not you’re a gear head, this spirit revs inside you the instant you enter the great hall. Nor does it diminish once you’ve exited the exhibition to drive toward your next destination. The Simeone Foundation Car Museum is open Tuesday – Sunday, 6825 Norwitch Drive, Philadelphia, simeonemuseum.org
1929 Stutz Supercharged
1915 Packard 3-38, 1916 Oakland Speedster, 1922 Paige Daytona 6-66 Speedster
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Windy City a a Drives
From day trips to overnight adventures, here are the best places to play, dine and stay near Chicago by tom mcnamee
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illustration by mike jacobsen
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We love Chicago ‚ a great city. We love the lakefront. The crazy tall buildings. The neighborhoods. The glacier-scoured flatness easy on bike riders and marathon runners. It’s just that sometimes we have to get away. We have to sit by some other body of water, look at a sunset free from skyscrapers and rediscover those things called birds. That means, we have to hit the road. Here are the best jaunts, day trips and overnight escapes close to the Windy City. 26 | Road Trip
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PHOTO NAT CHITTAMAI/SHUTTERSTOCK
An aerial view of Chicago from the north
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Geneva Arts Fair
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Geneva, Illinois
PHOTOS COURTESY CITY OF GENEVA; THOMAS BARRAT/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY CHICAGO BOTANIC GARDEN
drive time: 49 minutes We went for a drive to Galena, Illinois, a resort town close to the Mississippi River. Something didn’t seem right, when after driving just an hour, we found the throwback charm, the historic downtown, the boutique shopping and the craft breweries, the music pouring from doorways and the fudge shops. What gives? We were, in fact, not in Galena by the Illinois state line, but in Geneva, a Chicago suburb that strangely doubles as a getaway town. In summer, there are concerts on Island Park and more than 150 artists at the Geneva Arts Fair in downtown. At Christmastime, the town decks itself out like a Hallmark movie. Shops line West State Street. Rent a bike and ride the 40-mile Fox River Trail. Order a perfectly balanced Belgian-style beer at Penrose Brewing. And, you’ll still get home in time for a good night’s sleep before work the next morning. geneva.il.us
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drive time: 26 minutes You’ll never leave the Chicago area, but the North Shore feels like another world. Start at the breathtaking Baha’i House of Worship in Wilmette, where you are welcome to come in and gape (quietly). Pack a lunch at nearby Convito Café & Market. Drive north up Sheridan Road through some of the wealthiest suburbs in America, winding through ravines carved into lakefront bluffs with mansions overhead. Detour west at Lake-Cook Road, if you like, to the Chicago Botanic Garden, where the butterfly garden is a highlight. Or continue north to Illinois Beach State Park and take a swim. Returning back Downtown, stop in Highwood, with its restaurant row, for dinner. visitchicagonorthshore.com
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Chicago Botanic Garden
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Driving the scenic North Shore
Pullman National Monument
drive time: 22 minutes It was once the most famous planned community in the United States, as well as the most famous company town. George M. Pullman built his utopian community in the 1870s for his rail car factory hands. He rented sturdy small houses to common laborers,
Pullman National Monument
bigger houses to skilled craftsmen and the biggest to executives. But there would be no booze, no loud music or town elections. Pullman’s paternalistic dream fell apart with the great Pullman Strike of 1894, triggered when he cut wages but not rents. Today, the Pullman community is both a living Chicago neighborhood and a national monument, part of the U.S. National Park Service. You will find no more fascinating way to study the history of the American labor movement. nps.gov/pull
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Six Flags Great America
drive time: 47 minutes Got kids? Then you know about this. The kids are begging to go, or to go back. Or is it the child in you who wants to drive up Interstate 94 to Gurnee one more time? Great America, one of the nation’s biggest theme parks, offers 16 heart-pounding roller coasters and more than 30 water rides. We love the American Eagle because it never goes upside down, but we know people (little ones) who prefer the stomachchurning Maxx Force, the fastest double inversion coaster in the world, according to Six Flags. Same-day tickets are expensive, so get them online in advance or at a JewelOsco drugstore. sixflags.com/greatamerica
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Gurnee Mills
drive time: 50 minutes Looking for new shoes at a great price? Children’s clothes? Cigars? A suit? A winter coat? Gurnee Mills, an outlet mall near the Wisconsin border, is among the most popular tourist attractions in the Chicago area. Tour groups pull up in buses all day— and no wonder. The mall, which includes more than 200 outlet stores, is all about good deals. This is what you want to do if you were heading to Six Flags Great America but the weather had different ideas. simon.com/mall/gurnee-mills Mars Cheese Castle
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drive time: 52 minutes That the dunes—15,000 acres of natural splendor along 25 miles of Lake Michigan— even exist is a wonder. Preservationists fought industrial encroachment for a century, and only in 2019 were the dunes designated a United States National Park. Not to put too fine a point on it, but the dunes are the ultimate day trip for burnedout Chicagoans. A drive of just an hour or so, past steel mills and refineries, will put you on the beach, dune grasses bending in the breeze. It’s glorious. You can see the skyline of Chicago, but you’re in another world. Pack a lunch to enjoy near the Michigan City Lighthouse—that’s the Chicago way. nps.gov/indu
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Mars Cheese Castle and The Brat Stop
drive time: 1 hour Nothing says Wisconsin like cheese and brats. And no road trip north from Chicago, whether to Milwaukee, Lake Geneva, or beyond, is complete without stops at Mars Cheese Castle and The Brat Stop, both off Interstate 94 in Kenosha. At Mars, pick up a Cheddar that goes back to the Obama administration. At The Brat Stop, have a brat and a beer—or something fancie—and take in a Milwaukee Bucks or Brewers’ game on an enormous TV. The live bands after dark might keep you off the road a little longer and turn this quick drive into an overnighter. marscheese.com, bratstop.com 28 | Road Trip
Indiana Dunes National Park
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Illinois Railway Museum
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drive time: 1 hour, 9 minutes It has been called “the best Lionel train set in the world.” Except it’s better. The trains are full-scale, and you can hop a ride on many of them. Three favorites are a working 19th Century steam engine, a Pullman sleeping car and the last surviving “Green Hornet” streetcar used in Chicago. The museum offers more than 400 engines, cars and other major pieces of equipment, as well as a restored 1920s elevated train station from downtown Chicago, and draws train buffs from around the world. But it’s fun even if you don’t know a Norfolk & Western 2050 from a Chesapeake & Ohio 2707—not that you don’t. There’s a snack bar, but you know how train food goes. Bring a picnic lunch. www5.irm.org
drive time: 39 minutes Want to climb on a tank? How about more than 100 armored vehicles? You’ll find them pointed at nobody in particular at Cantigny Park in Wheaton, Illinois, the former estate of Col. Robert R. McCormick, legendary publisher of the Chicago Tribune, who served with the U.S. Army’s 1st Infantry Division. The 500-acre park includes formal gardens, picnic grounds, a public golf course and two museums. One tells the story of the First Division. The other, housed in McCormick’s former mansion, tells the story of the colonel. As you drive west on Interstate 290 to Cantigny, consider a stop at the Morton Arboretum in Lisle. No tanks, but endless birds. cantigny.org, mortonarb.org roadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTOS D GUEST SMITH/SHUTTERSTOCK; JON LAURIAT/SHUTTERSTOCK; CARLOS YUDICA/SHUTTERSTOCK
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Jasper-Pulaski Fish & Wildlife Area
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Sandhill Cranes in Indiana
drive time: 1 hour, 32 minutes The day grows long and a sandhill crane glides down into an open field at the JasperPulaski Fish & Wildlife Area in Northwest Indiana. Then another crane. And another. Within an hour or two, as many as 10,000 cranes have landed. They strut about and make a ruckus, like it’s happy hour in the grasslands. Then, as the sun sets, they fly off, headed for the protective reeds of a nearby marsh, where they will roost through the night. This goes on every year from late September through December, the cranes’ fall migration season. Watch through binoculars from a wooden viewing stand. Wish the cranes Godspeed. Drive home feeling a kind of calm. It’s a long drive for a few hours of birding, but worth it, especially if the only birds you see in your day-to-day are pigeons. in.gov/dnr/fishwild
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Starved Rock State Park
drive time: 1 hour, 30 minutes What do you do here? Walk 13 miles of trails through 18 canyons, which you won’t see much of otherwise in Northern Illinois. The scenery shifts constantly through the seasons, offering new surprises with every visit. Even winter has its stark appeal, and the rustic main lodge is quieter then. Walk in the snow and sit by a grand fire. Summer weekends, be forewarned, are crowded. The Lodge Restaurant, long known for simple family fare, has developed a more ambitious menu, but it’s still pushing the good fried chicken. Stay at the lodge, if staying overnight, or in a thoroughly modern log cabin. starvedrocklodge.com
PHOTOS KENNETH KEIFER/SHUTTERSTOCK; JASON PATRICK ROSS/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTSY ABBEY RESORT
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Lasalle Falls at Starved Rock State Park
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Lake Geneva, Wisconsin
drive time: 1 hour, 27 minutes See how the other half has lived for 150 years. Lake Geneva was once—and in some cases, still is—the summer home of the Midwestern industrialist elite, families with names like Wrigley, Maytag, Schwinn and Pritzker. We once spotted a Rockefeller gardening. Walk the Shore Path, which runs right in front of grand Gilded Age estates. Lake Geneva is all about glittering waters, sun-filled restaurants, sailboats and kicking back. Stay at the Abbey Resort in nearby Fontana. For lunch, try a burger at Gordy’s Boat House, where you can pull up in your yacht. For something more high end, there’s Medusa Grill and Bistro. visitlakegeneva.com, theabbeyresort.com
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Harley-Davidson Museum
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Harbor Country
drive time: 1 hour, 30 minutes This is a trip that can become a habit. There’s so much to do. The Milwaukee Art Museum holds its own against the best of Chicago. Make sure to see the unfolding of the retractable bird wings above the museum’s main building, designed by Santiago Calatrava. Poke around the Historic Third Ward, the heart of Milwaukee’s restaurant, art gallery and shopping scene. Find lunch on the River Walk or rent a kayak. Shoulder your way through the Public Market, crowded with tiny shops and food stalls. Vegan or not, On the Bus is a good stop. And check out the Harley-Davidson Museum. Kids love it. So will your old man or old lady. For dinner, try Bacchus, overlooking Lake Michigan. And the Pfister Hotel is refined Old Milwaukee. visitmilwaukee.org
Dane County Farmers Market
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Galena
drive time: 2 hours, 49 minutes President Ulysses Grant lived here. He sat on his porch and wrote his memoirs, among the greatest ever by a soldier. What is equally remarkable about Galena today is this: It looks pretty much like it did in Grant’s day. Main Street is almost a solid stretch of preCivil War buildings. The music, restaurant and shopping scenes will leave you happy, and you can paddle a canoe on the Mississippi. Galena’s third great charm, though, is its geology. As you drive west into town, the landscape dips and swells, showing off a patchwork of tidy farms that roll to the horizon. Try Vinny Vanucchi’s Little Italy for Italian food. Book a stay at The Irish Cottage Boutique Hotel. visitgalena.org
Pro Tip
Don’t let your car go thirsty: Important systems in your vehicle need fluids to keep them running. Every two years or 30,000 miles, take your car in for: • Brake Fluid Exchange, which helps extend the life of the brake system parts, including the master cylinder, wheel cylinders and hoses. • Cooling System Flush and Fill to remove rust, sludge and corrosion deposits from your car’s engine and prevent overheating. • Transmission Fluid Exchange helps keep the transmission from failing. • Differential Fluid Exchange removes moisture and dirt and helps extend performance. • Power Steering Fluid Exchange for quiet and smooth steering control.
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Madison, Wisconsin
Drive Time: 2 hours, 30 minutes Year after year, surveys list this happy college town as one of the best places to live, which is quite a trick given the winters. Then again, cold weather in Madison means ice skating and ice fishing. It’s an attitude. The trip up from Chicago is fine—schedule time for The House on the Rock on the way there—but once in town, ditch the wheels. Madison is a bike rider’s paradise, and you can rent a BCycle share bike anywhere. Don’t miss the Dane County Farmers Market on Saturdays, said to be the largest farmers market in the country, or the State Street pedestrian mall. On the campus of the University of Wisconsin, you might like the Arboretum and the Allen Centennial Garden, but you know what’s really great? An ice cream cone from the Babcock Hall Dairy Plant and Store. The money supports the university’s Food Science Department. That’s Madison: Fun and scholarship. Book a room at the Edgewater Hotel. visitmadison.com Tom McNamee, a lifelong Chicagoan, has been stuck in way too many traffic jams while trying to get out of town. He is the editorial page editor of the Chicago Sun-Times.
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PHOTOS PAOLO NABAS/SHUTTERSTOCK; MARYNAG/SHUTTERSTOCK
drive time: 1 hour, 10 minutes A weekend in New Buffalo can feel like an extension of home. You might spot a TV news anchor having breakfast at Jackie’s Café (get the scrambler), or a top Chicago newspaper executive having lunch at Brewster’s Italian Café (sourdough pizza) and maybe a film critic gazing out over marshlands from a tower in Galien River County Park. Harbor Country, on the Indiana-Michigan state line, is a bit of a media hangout, though Chicagoans of every kind make the drive. For all the wineries and fruit orchards, Warren Dunes State Park remains the biggest draw, rolling on what seems like forever. The Acorn in Three Oaks offers good live music. For a classic bed-and-breakfast experience, try the Inn at Union Pier. harborcountry.org
The southern rolling plains outside of Guthrie, Texas
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PHOTO DAVID HALLORAN
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A panoramic view of Cliff Lede Vineyards and the surrounding area in Napa Valley
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Winding Around Wine Country Our national search for the best vineyards in America decanted these top spots by jill k. robinson
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get a deep sense of the in a handful of United States wine regions with a number of road trips that goes beyond the city tasting room. It’s only when you have your feet on the ground in the vineyard and breathe in the landscape where the grapes are grown can you experience the elements that come together in each glass of wine. These select vineyards have significant differences in terrain, climate and culture—making for a vacation road trip to remember. Pack your bags and follow your palate to these rich wine destinations.
Santa Barbara County, California
Known to film buffs as the Sideways wine region, Santa Barbara County has more than 100 wineries across more than 21,000 acres. This is one of the coolest viticultural areas in California, due to the inland ebb and flow of fog and ocean breezes along the east-west transverse mountain range and valleys that open directly to the Pacific Ocean. There are six official santa barbara county
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American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) here: Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley, Ballard Canyon, Los Olivos District and Santa Rita Hills. Santa Barbara County has a near-perfect place for a wide variety of wine grape varieties. Start at Beckmen Vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley near Los Olivos, where the focus is on innovative and well-crafted Rhône varietal wines. Longoria Wines, with an explicit concentration on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, has a tasting room in the heart of Lompoc. Finish up in downtown Santa Barbara where many of the area’s best wineries have tasting rooms including Au Bon Climat, Margerum Wines, Santa Barbara Winery, Pali Wine Co., Riverbench Winery and Jaffurs Wine Cellars. For days when you want to leave the car behind, 805 Transportation has both limousine and wine country cab services to get you where you need to go. Take a wine break at the Hitching Post II, famous for its Santa Maria-style barbecue (and as the hangout in Sideways) that dates roadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTO; PREVIOUS SPREAD ROBERT MCCLENAHAN
terroir
Ehlers Estate in Napa Valley; rows of cabernet at Thomas Judy Beckman Estate Vineyard from top:
back to 19th-century Spanish-style ranch cookouts featuring topblock sirloin and tri-tip barbecued over a native oak species that adds a smoky flavor. Stay at Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort in the new refurbished suites designed by Nathan Turner. Or embrace your inner cowboy at Fess Parker Wine Country Inn. The 19 spacious rooms and suites channel a Wild West vibe, courtesy of the famous actor’s roles in Davy Crockett and Daniel Boone television shows. At the Bear and Star restaurant, refined ranch cuisine is paired with estate-grown Rhône varietals from the Fess Parker Winery.
PHOTOS ANDRÉA JOHNSON; BECKMEN VINEYARDS
Napa Valley, California
California State Route 29 winds through Napa Valley and leads to everything this northern slice of wine country is famous for: sprawling vineyards, luxury inns and boutique wineries. Known as one of the most premier wine regions in the world, Napa’s elite reputation stems more from science than snobbery: The 30-mile stretch of wine country boasts a Mediterranean climate only seen in 2% of the world. For vintners, it’s the perfect blend of unique geography, weather and some of the most diverse soil on the planet that allows more than 34 varieties of premium wine grapes to thrive here. The Napa Valley itself is an American Viticultural Area (AVA) with 16 nested AVAs within the valley: Atlas Peak, Calistoga, Chiles Valley District, Coombsville, Diamond Mountain District, Howell Mountain, Los Carneros, Mt. Veeder, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena, Spring Mountain District, Stags Leap District, Yountville and Wild Horse Valley. napa valley
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Award-winning wines produced here include Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc and—of course—Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up 40 percent of the total wine production in the valley. With more than 400 wineries in Napa, the tasting options are as diverse as the grapes. If you’re a morning person, the early bird gets the vino inside the 1886 stone barn winery at Ehlers Estate where the “Start Your Day” tasting of organically-farmed varietals begins at 9:30 a.m. (reservations required). Music lover? Reds and rock n’ roll are the jam at Cliff Lede Vineyards where blocks of the vineyard are named after owner Cliff Lede’s favorite songs and albums including “Dark Side of the Moon” and “My Generation.” The “Backstage” tasting option features rotating exhibits from music artists and music memorabilia from Lede’s personal collection. Architecture buffs will Pro Tip Tires sold in North America appreciate the “Founders Experience” are required to have molded at Sullivan Rutherford Estate: sipping indicators, or "wear bars," to let drivers know when to Bordeaux varietals in the vineyard home replace them. Inspect tires designed by celebrated architect John for wear and damage before any road trip, and schedule an Marsh Davis, known for his Frank Lloyd alignment check at least once a Wright aesthetic. Cinema aficionados year to help reduce tread wear and get more miles per gallon. should head to Frank Family Vineyards where Marilyn Monroe sipped sparkling wine when she was in town. And keep an eye out for owner Rich Frank, the former president of Disney Studios and a Hollywood legend in his own right for his involvement in blockbusters including Pretty Woman. His Hollywood stories are best paired with a Napa Valley Chardonnay. For A-list lodging, the five-room boutique hotel, Poetry Inn, is perched high above the valley with 360-degree views of wine country. Also A-list: Meadowood Inn. Rooms and suites are thoughtfully incorporated into the natural landscape of the 250-acre estate with outside-the-wine-box activities including croquet (you must wear all white), tennis and golf. Feel free to leave the car at the hotel: Napa has endless transportation options—from bikes to limos to trolleys and even a Wine Train—to help get you around town. — JF Road Trip | 35
Farmers harvesting at Hermann J. Wiemer in the Finger Lakes; glasses of red served fireside at the Allison Inn & Spa from top:
Willamette Valley, Oregon
This wine region south of Portland is home to two-thirds of Oregon’s wineries and vineyards, and is known as one of the premier Pinot Noir-producing areas in the world. The grape itself is extremely reflective of climactic and site differences, and demands a cool climate to thrive. The protection afforded by the Coast Range mountains to the west, Cascade Mountains to the east and lower hill chains to the extreme north makes the valley especially suitable for cool-climate grapes. Six official AVAs here include: Chehalem Mountains; Dundee Hills; Eola-Amity Hills; McMinnville; Ribbon Ridge; and Yamhill-Carlton. While its Pinot Noir wines are the benchmark production at Elk Cove Vineyards in Gaston, it’s also worth tasting their Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Chardonnay wines. In Dundee, Nicholas-Jay is the result of a collaboration between a Burgundy luminary and a United States music executive, producing beautiful Pinot Noir wines. Lingua Franca in the Eola-Amity Hills is inspired by a desire for transparency in winemaking and purity in the vineyard, and featured Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. And leave the driving to someone else because Pinot Car lets you plan your own itinerary, or you can lean on their expert suggestions. Splurge at The Allison Inn & Spa, the Willamette Valley’s premier destination resort, set on 35 hillside acres where its on-site restaurant showcases wine country cuisine and an impressive 500-label wine list. At Abbey Road Farm, you can stay in beautifully designed suites housed in converted grain silos with vineyard views and fuel up every morning with a gourmet breakfast before heading out for a day of wine tasting.
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Finger Lakes/Upstate, New York
This wine region in upstate New York is often compared to the German wine regions along the Rhine River, mostly due to the laser-focus on aromatic whites like Riesling and Gewürztraminer. But like many wine regions, there’s still much more to discover with its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and several French-American and native varieties. There’s one major viticultural area here—Finger Lakes AVA—with two nested within, Cayuga Lake AVA and Seneca Lake. More than 140 wineries are spread throughout this area, though the majority are clustered around Cayuga, Keuka and Seneca Lakes. At Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, among the first to put the region on the map with its Rieslings, it’s best to make a reservation to ensure you get a space in the intimate rustic barn. Wagner Vineyards has a variety of regional selections, from Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir to hybrid grapes like Cayuga and Delaware. And, of course, they have Riesling. Take a trip through a flight of wines across the Finger Lakes at Microclimate Wine Bar. For a day off winery tours, visit the Corning Museum of Glass, home to the largest collection of glass in the world. You can merely look, or even step into the hot shop to make a creation of your own in a class. Make your home base at Belhurst Castle, a restored castle with two restaurants and a spa, or check in at Firelight Camps for some relaxed glamping in Ithaca. If you want a lift or a wine tour, check in with Main Street Drivers, so you don’t need to do it all alone. finger lakes
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PHOTOS HERMANN J. WIEMER VINEYARD; BARBARA KRAFT
willamette valley
from top: A couple enjoying a glass on the patio at Abeja Winery; an aerial view of William Chris' new wine tasting facility in Hye, Texas
Columbia Valley, Washington
Stretching across the central and southern areas of Washington is the Columbia Valley Wine Region, the state’s largest viticultural area that covers a full third of Washington’s landmass. The cross-border AVA (which spills into Oregon) covers more than 11 million acres and contains 99 percent of wine grapes grown in Washington state. Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted grape here, followed by merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling and Syrah. Nine smaller AVAs are nested within Columbia Valley: Ancient Lakes, Yakima Valley, Red Mountain, Walla Walla Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Rattlesnake Hills, Lake Chelan, Snipes Mountain and Wahluke Slope. Hit the road (actually, have someone drive you) to taste at Long Shadows in Walla Walla (look for the glassworks by sculptor Dale Chihuly). Also in Walla Walla, Abeja (Spanish for “bee”) focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. Visits to this idyllic country farmhouse setting are by appointment, and you can also stay at the inn on the estate, the Inn at Abeja, where you get priority for tasting appointments. Main Street Drivers is your best bet for a designated driver on a heavy tasting day. Pick your own lavender at Blue Mountain Lavender Farm in early summer or visit Lewis and Clark State Park to get a great sense of the outdoors. Lay your head at The Marcus Whitman in Walla Walla, with elegant rooms and suites and five on-site tasting rooms hosted by boutique vintners, so you can still sample the region’s wine when you take a break from the road. columbia valley
Hill Country, Texas
Before you ask whether there’s wine in Texas, the answer is yes. Believe it or not, there’s wine in each of the 50 states. The sunny and dry climate of Texas is ideal for the varietals that flourish in the region, including Cabernet and Zinfandel, though many other varietals are planted throughout the Hill Country. The Texas Hill Country AVA is one of the largest AVAs in the geographic area, with more than nine million acres, even though that entire acreage isn’t used in producing wine. Drop in at William Chris Vineyards in Hye off Highway 290 for a true taste of Texas terroir. All wines are made from 100 percent Texasgrown grapes with an emphasis on red including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and unique Lone Star blends including a Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre with a touch of Tannat. At Kuhlman Cellars in Stonewall, the estate vineyard is planted to Mourvedre, Marsanne, Aglianico, Roussanne and Carignan. Enjoy a tasting on the breezy second-story covered tasting patio, where the world slows down and you can get an intimate sense of winemaking in Hill Country. The 290 Wine Shuttle is a great option when you don’t want to drive on your own. On a wine break, go see the nation’s second-largest granite dome (next to Georgia’s Stone Mountain): Enchanted Rock. Half-buried in the hills near Fredericksburg, the rock is best to visit at the end of the day, just before sunset. Stay at Tres Lunas, where you can get a poolside suite and truly see the wide-open skies of Texas, including what seems like a billion stars at night. hill country
PHOTOS MATTHEW LOVETTE; MIGUEL LECUONA
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Jill K. Robinson writes about adventure and travel for a variety of print and digital publications, including Afar, National Geographic, Outside and Travel + Leisure. Her wine adventures usually result in more than a few extra bottles.
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The High Road to Taos, heading north out of Santa Fe, winds its way through the arid landscape
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A Multigenerational Drive Out West Canyon roads and mountain climbs make for a magical trip to New Mexico by maryann martin
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for car-time bonding with my mother, I’ve wanted to take a page from her playbook and load up my three young daughters and set out across I-40 from Oklahoma City to Santa Fe, New Mexico. When mom and I would drive to the southwestern city, something magical happened during those weekend getaways—it was far enough and different enough to be “away” from Oklahoma, but close enough to drive in a day. Over the years, the drive to Santa Fe became an escape for us during rough times back home. When I moved away for college, I’d return home to Oklahoma just to take a road trip to New Mexico with mom. First, we would hit our favorite shops: Maya on Water Street in the Plaza District and Jackalope on Cerrillos Road, where we’d spend hours browsing the pottery and handmade goods under the sun. We would dine at the same restaurants: The Shed, the Pantry, La Fonda and the little Baskin-Robbins on Cerrillos Road across from our favorite motel. Perhaps these trips are when I discovered my love for green chiles. Or it may have been when a restaurant I worked at in Oklahoma City made a dish with green chile pesto. Regardless, the peppers are ubiquitous in New Mexican cooking, a unique cuisine by itself, and every meal can be served with red or green chile sauce, or both. We
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long for the food as much as the landscape between trips and green chiles are a central part of my cooking when I’m home. As I began my own family, I took trips west with my husband and daughters to New Mexico, who know well my love for New Mexican food. But by the summer of 2018, we had yet to make a trip with my mom—she worked two jobs and her schedule just never permitted. Then she retired after 40 years of civil service and I was itching to go west with her again. My hope was to recreate the same experiences with my daughters that mom created with me, where the “getting there” element of the travel was just as important as the “being there.” And so we hit the road. It’s a relaxing drive from Oklahoma, almost a straight shot until you hit Clines Corners, New Mexico, off I-40, then a mere hour-long chip shot from there. While the drive may be simple, what it lacks in difficulty it more than makes up for with all the panoply of Midwest and Southwest beauty. The terrain changes drastically at least five times between central Oklahoma and Clines Corners. So much so that a five minute rest stop just east of Amarillo, Texas, yields unparalleled panoramic views of rolling plains that seem to emerge from nowhere. It’s not just the scenery—although that could be enough: It’s knowing the culture is changing every time the landscape changes, from the farming and tribal casinos of central Oklahoma to the cattle ranches of the Texas Panhandle, with land so flat that you barely have to turn the wheel. The oil and gas industries are woven into the scenery the entire way, but it’s simply a backdrop to an older time and older way of life. The farther west and the closer you get to the New Mexico state line, the heavier the green chile contact high. There are many ways to get between New Mexico and Oklahoma that don’t involve an interstate, so stop in any small town diner to eat any meal of the day along the way and you’ll find green or red chiles—the mouthroadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTOS, PREVIOUS SPREAD WILLIAM SILVER/SHUTTERSTOCK THIS PAGE MICHAEL ZYSMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK
Long a destination
from left: Green chiles being roasted; Hotel La Fonda de Taos; the Pantry Restaurant in Santa Fe
watering, spicy, metallic sauce born by that delightful, one-of-a-kind green vegetable—on the menu. And it’s also the otherworldly essence of the High Plains, the mixture of centuries-old civilizations, which immediately calms my mind and lowers my blood pressure. The purple shadows of the mountains lurk to the north of I-40 It is the desert in New Mexico, so pack plenty of water as the pine-dusted southern end of the and beverages to drink. But Rockies cuts through the state and the remember that rest stops may be few and far between. arroyos off the side of the highway carve interstaterestareas.com through the sagebrush and cactus. To stay, Taos Vacation Homes This is why I come back. Mom and has a wide variety of options. I have driven this way to escape our Note: Read the fine print and cancellation policies before family, to escape health crisis and before booking. taosvacationhomes.com major life changes. We do so because New Mexico’s calming effect never changes. Add the mix of my three grizzled road warrior children in the back seat, and the drive to Santa Fe becomes a much-anticipated family respite. This trip we decided to stay outside of Sante Fe near Taos, having unwittingly planned to travel the weekend of the Indian Market in August. Smaller and more remote than Santa Fe, Taos is only 69 miles northeast but the mountain roads add another 30 minutes or more. That NEW MEXICO TRAVEL TIPS If you want world-class service and food, Cafe Pasqual’s in downtown Santa Fe is a must. There is always a wait to eat pretty much any time of day, but the host will take your name and literally come find you in the stores down the street when it’s time for you to be seated. pasquals.com
PHOTOS RICHARD AMORA/SHUTTERSTOCK; STEVE LARESE
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additional 30 minutes is well worth it, as the High Road to Taos Scenic Byway is the closest any traveler will get to Old Spain in North America. We planned our eight-hour trip from Oklahoma City to hit Santa Fe for an early dinner at the Pantry—always my first stop for breakfast, lunch or dinner—and then we planned to finish our trip by driving to our rental in Taos by sunset. About those mountain roads: The first stretch between Santa Fe and Taos is on I-25 with heavy traffic before setting east, where the roads quickly begin to wind and narrow. Some points are an easy 65 mph. Other points are two-lane roads. And at other points, you’re in a small town somewhere with vacant storefronts, or driving directly next to a mountain river with your passenger side snuggled next to a rock cliff. There are very few stops after about 30 minutes out from Santa Fe. Definitely choose bathroom breaks accordingly and monitor your gas. Fuel up on I-40 as soon as you see a gas station. Once you head north from Clines Corners, it’s 30 minutes before there’s sign of life again. In the past 15 years, that distance has shrunk; it used to be 70 miles before you hit the south of Santa Fe and my mother and I have driven that distance hovering—very, very nervously—on E. Let’s just say, you may plan to get to Taos by sunset from Santa Fe. But you won’t get to your rental north of Taos before dark. The drive to the Pantry this past summer went as planned. That was familiar territory for me. The mountain roads were not. Getting to Taos took longer and a steelier spine than expected. It was the first time I had made this drive, much less with a car full of children and a nervous mother next to me, watching the clock and the rapidly setting sun. It was a world different than the uneventful stretches of I-40. We got to Taos and discovered our rental was quite a Road Trip | 41
ways north of town and down (and then up again) poorly-marked and some unmarked roads in a canyon. Dogs ran out and barked at our headlights, we missed our turn multiple times, did a 20-point turn in a narrow one-lane road in the dark to double back and squeezed to the side to let another car go by before hurtling up a road and happening upon our rental with the porch light on. And it was heaven, worth every bit of the dust and white-knuckle driving along dark canyon roads. Our windows and the yard opened onto Taos Mountain and we could hear the coyotes howling in the distance throughout the night. We had the opportunity to visit Taos Pueblo the next day. Affectionately known as the place of the red willows, Taos Pueblo is one of the oldest continuously inhabited villages in North America. The village lies at the base of the Sangre de Cristo mountains and the adobe homes of Taos Pueblo have been the muse of artists for a century. There was another requirement of this trip—for me, perhaps the most therapeutic—but we had to make multiple stops for it to happen because it was oddly difficult to find: freshly roasted Hatch green chiles. August and September are Hatch chile season, and I love nothing more than green chile stew and green chile sauce. In certain parts of the country, grocery stores set up roasters in the parking lot, tossing fresh green chiles from southern New Mexico in a propane-fueled circular grill, and parcel out chiles into plastic bags by the pound in the late summer. When I’ve been in Santa Fe in the past, I’ve been there in time to find some locally. I was not so lucky on this trip. To my surprise, the trip south from Taos was more populated than I expected and we passed a number of communities on the way to I-40, eyes peeled for chile roasters. I had just about given up hope on finding my treasure trove of green chiles until we were sitting at 42 | Road Trip
a red light after grabbing lunch Pro Tip and saw the trucks, canopies and Weather, age and driving habits affect roasters typical of the farmers your car’s battery life—especially hot weather. To keep the power up, follow bringing their chiles to town. these tips. Unlike the grocery store, Regular Maintenance: Check water level the chiles weren’t sold by the and clean your battery using a mix of pound. I could choose from a baking soda and water. Mix the two ingredients to the same consistency as small bucket, a bigger bucket, toothpaste, clean the battery with the and a 10 gallon bucket and the mixture, rinse with water after clean and then dry thoroughly. multi-generation family selling the chiles overflowed the size Power Down: Make sure interior lights, radio and windshield wipers are off when I chose, then popped them in the engine of your car is not running. the roaster, stirring it for three Drive: Leaving a car in the garage for minutes over the roaring flame weeks can weaken the battery. If you’re before shoveling my purchase not going to be driving, consider getting an automatic battery charger. into a plastic garbage bag. Inside the bag, the steam separates the Test the Battery: Ask your technician to test the current strength. The test also skin from the flesh of the chiles predicts what temperature may cause for easy peeling. your car battery to fail. I chatted with and got tips from the abuela on green chile stew recipes while her son roasted my chiles. We loaded them into my cooler in the back of my SUV and drove the rest of the way home, marinating, once again, in the aroma of green chiles. MaryAnn Martin, Ph.D., is a writer and college instructor who lives in Norman, Oklahoma, with her husband and three daughters. When she's not yearning for the day her children can tolerate spicy green chiles, she's dreaming up the next big road trip to take with her family. roadtrip-magazine.com
PHOTO MARYANN MARTIN
The Martin kids taking in the southwestern scenery
Cape Disappointment State Park at the mouth of the Columbia River in Washington
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PHOTO DAVID HALLORAN
Travel-Scope Read your road trip personality and where to travel based on your Zodiac sign. By Jacquelyn Froeber
Jan. 20 - Feb. 18 Travelers born under the Aquarius sign see the tank half full. They are known for helping others, which makes them an ideal co-pilot on the road. To wit: Aquarius is an air sign, meaning they enjoy intellectual conversations and are often good listeners. Road Trip 2020: New Orleans, Louisiana, hits all the marks: volunteerism efforts like Habitat for Humanity; a newly expanded sculpture garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art; and—of course— fun in the French Quarter. Feb. 19 - March 20 Pisces tend to be selfless and kind and find themselves taking the wheel while fielding the “are we there yet” questions with grace. But don’t mistake kindness for weakness: They will turn the car around if their intuition says so. Road Trip 2020: Treat yourself at the Vintners Inn in Santa Rosa, California. The hotel’s new spa offers creative services—including a Fresh from the Garden Massage & Scrub—for some well-deserved pampering. March 21 - April 19 Neighborhood pop-ins and impromptu road trips are what Aries live for. Known for exhibiting a playful and enthusiastic spirit, Aries are confident in sharing colorful stories and belting out their own version of “Carpool Karaoke.” Road Trip 2020: Nashville, Tennessee, is a match for fun-loving people and live music around every turn. For the best in entertainment, check out the new Brooklyn Bowl, which opened March 2020.
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April 20 - May 20 Determined and reliable, travelers born under the Taurus sign are the oil that keeps the motor running. They know how to fix a flat, navigate through rough terrain and always arrive on time. Taurus is possessive by nature, which may manifest in perpetually calling “shotgun” before getting in the car and reigning over the radio. Road Trip 2020: Head to the Olympic Peninsula from Seattle, Washington, to drive through the Hoh Rainforest, one of the largest temperate rainforests in the U.S., and stay in one of the new cottages at the historic Red Robin Village in Union. May 21 - June 20 The Gemini’s dual personality craves spontaneity, so naturally they want to do it all: drive all day into the night; navigate through the countryside and city traffic; command the road in a van and a sports car. Despite the tendency to bore easily, their inquisitive nature keeps things interesting. Road Trip 2020: Las Vegas, Nevada, has the best of both worlds: elite entertainment and sports inside the new Las Vegas Stadium, and challenging outdoor adventures at Red Rock Canyon, less than 30 minutes from the Strip. June 21 - July 22 Travelers born under the Cancer sign are extremely loving and imaginative, which makes them fantastic backseat drivers who know the perfect game to play when passengers are getting restless. They also have a knack for magically finding a restaurant/attraction/lodging that caters to everyone. Road Trip 2020: Head to Washington, D.C., the epicenter of nonprofits, and stay at the new Conrad Hotel within walking distance to shopping, restaurants and famous landmarks everyone will want to see.
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July 23 - Aug. 22 Passionate and outgoing, a Leo will seek the spotlight wherever they go. Also known to be fiercely loyal, they travel with close friends and family who must endure their love for power ballads like Katy Perry’s “Roar.” Road Trip 2020: To see and be seen, take Florida’s A1A to Miami Beach and anchor at the impossibly chic Faena Hotel before heading to the new Joia Beach Club and Restaurant on Watson Island. Aug. 23 - Sept. 22 Virgos may appear shy at first, but they are probably just analyzing the road map for the quickest way to the destination. Both practical and highly intelligent, Virgos plan every aspect of the trip down to the tropical car freshener and the homemade trail mix. Road Trip 2020: In Jackson Hole, Wyoming, let the staff at the new Caladra House resort curate one-of-a-kind experiences (ski lessons with Olympic gold medalist Bode Miller!) for your group—and take the credit. Sept. 23 - Oct. 22 Easygoing in nature, Libras tend to go with the flow both behind the wheel and as a passenger. Despite their indecisiveness, Libras seek tranquillity and peace and are happy to share yoga stretches at rest stops. Road Trip 2020: The new Mirival resort in Austin, Texas, is tucked into Hill Country and offers the best in health and wellness programs including yoga on the lake.
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Oct. 23 - Nov. 21 Confident and resourceful, Scorpios are known to take control behind the wheel and as a boisterous back-seat driver. Always up for a challenge, their magnetic nature draws people in, but they will never lose a game of “I Spy.” Road Trip 2020: Drive to Zion National Park in Utah for challenging trails including the Narrows; the stunning Emerald Pools Trail. Nov. 22 - Dec. 21 Boredom is a Sagittarius’ worst nightmare. They crave excitement and need mental stimulation, which makes them leaders in car trivia and dance contests like the “Kiki Challenge” during a road trip. They tend to gravitate toward vehicles with optimum gas mileage so they can stop when they want to—not when they have to. Road Trip 2020: An adventurous spirit makes driving through New York City a breeze. Don’t miss the new Statue of Liberty Museum for an up-close look at the original torch (replaced in the ’80s) and other historical items. Dec. 22 - Jan. 19 Driven by success, Capricorns are ambitious planners. They lead the pack behind the wheel or co-pilot to destinations with a focus on efficiency. Although Capricorns tend to lead with a “my way or the highway” attitude, their meticulous methods pay off in extra time at the destination. Road Trip 2020: Park the car at the new International Hotel in San Diego, California, for easy access to the Maritime Museum, shopping and seafood dives.
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Stretches for Road-Trip Warriors We asked Dr. Brandon Bishop, physical therapist at ATI Nevada, for situational stretches to help keep the kinks at bay.
IN THE CAR
Note: Hold each stretch for 20 seconds and repeat three times
Seated Trunk Rotation
BRIAN SMITH
Begin sitting upright with your arms crossed over your chest. Slowly rotate your trunk to one side, then return and repeat the rotation on your other side. Tip: Make sure to stay upright throughout the exercise and do not bend forward or backward.
Seated Lumbar Flexion Stretch
Begin sitting with your knees spread apart. Bend forward, letting your arms hang toward the ground until you feel a stretch in your lower back. Tip: Make sure to keep your movements slow and controlled and do not rise up off the seat when you bend forward.
Seated Hamstring Stretch
Begin sitting upright with one leg straight forward and your other heel resting on the ground. Bend your trunk forward, hinging at your hips until you feel a stretch in the back of your leg. Hold this position. Tip: Make sure to keep your knee straight during the stretch and do not let your back arch or slump. 46 | Road Trip
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REST-STOP REVIVAL
Note: Hold each stretch for 20 seconds and repeat three times
Standing Forward Trunk Flexion
Begin in a standing upright position. Slowly reach your hands toward your feet, hinging at your hips until you feel a stretch in the back of your legs. Hold this position. Tip: Make sure to keep your knees straight without locking them during the stretch.
TL Sidebending Stretch
Begin in a standing upright position with your arms clasped straight overhead. Slowly lean toward one side until you feel a stretch and hold. Tip: Make sure to keep your hips level and maintain your balance during the stretch. Do not let your trunk bend forward or backward.
Standing Lumbar Extension
Begin in a standing upright position with your hands resting on your hips. Slowly arch your trunk backward and hold. Tip: Make sure to maintain your balance during the exercise and do not bend your knees. roadtrip-magazine.com
Road Trip | 47
No Need to Ski When You Have Sedona By Adam Pitluk
I’m still wearing the same clothes from college (and some from high school) because they still fit and they’re not too ragged. I still don the same pair of shoes every morning that I bought in the fall of 1996 (these are ragged and they barely fit, but they look cool). I recently drove 50 miles to pick up some printer ink that I bought on Craigslist because even though the printer itself has been discontinued, the thing still works and I don’t want to fuss with a new one. And my cellphone is so old that you have to turn a crank to start it. My whole repertoire of activities, from my day-to-day life to my future road-trip plans in my wife’s 2002, 145,000-mile-plus Jeep Liberty, is practiced in a familiar, consistent manner. All but one, that is. When it comes to traveling and vacationing, I like to let my sails out; I like to let my hair down, so to speak, which is usually easy because I only get one haircut a year and have only gotten one haircut a year since I was 18. But the older my kids get, the harder it is to vacation. I assume that’s because one is 11, one is 14, and they’re both super high-strung. In fact, my wife and I weren’t going to vacation at all this year. That’s when I had an idea, and it went a little something like this: My father lives in Phoenix and has for years. We try to visit him in the winter so that we don’t become too sun-starved back home in North Texas. So, on this trip to Phoenix, I decided to leave the kids with their grandfather for a night and take Kimberly on a two-and-a-half hour burn straight north to Snowbowl Ski Resort in Flagstaff for a quick day of skiing and then a brief night out in this quaint mountain town. The drive from Phoenix to Flagstaff on I-17 is standard and uneventful, until you get about an hour in and start climbing altitude near Camp Verde. The saguaro cactuses give way to paloverde trees, which give way to rocky mountain juniper and quaking pines the higher you climb. You can see the towering red rocks of Sedona in the distance to the west, and the congestion seems to dissipate as you inch closer to the campus of Northern Arizona University in the heart of Flagstaff. The drive was so inspiring just taking the interstate that we decided to take the back roads on the return trip to Phoenix. That ended up being the highlight of the trip, especially when we got close to Sedona. Sedona can be summed up as an artist community 48 | Road Trip
in the middle of a stunning geographic anomaly ensconced by a supernatural vortex (paranormal experts swear that this is where you’ll find a secret portal to another dimension). The generational Native American culture permeates everyday life and adds genius to the twin virtues of sustainable living and smart growth. They’ve been doing it right out there for more than a century, which made the circa 1989 “Powell Peralta” skateboard shirt I was wearing while there youthful by comparison. There is so much to do in such a stretching, sprawling surrounding that Kimberly and I wished we had forgone skiing altogether and spent our time driving in and around Sedona. After all, Arizona skiing, although fantastic by alpine standards, is very, very crowded. Sedona and the surrounding areas, on the other hand, are not. The only thing that marred our mini-vacation was my attire. “I didn’t like that outfit when we were in college,” Kimberly quipped about my driving threads, “and I don’t like it now.” Baby steps. PRO TIP Need a quick cabin for a night in Sedona? Check out Orchard Canyon on Oak Creek for a truly singular experience. enjoyorchardcanyon.com
Take the Red Rock Scenic Byway (SR 179) for sweeping views on the way to Sedona
PHOTO DOMINIQUE MILLETTE/SHUTTERSTOCK
i’m the type of guy who doesn’t do too well with change.
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