Groove Korea August 2014

Soft - serve Seoul

The city’s ice cream boom is leaving converts and brain freeze in its path

KOREA • Issue 94 / August 2014

An oasis out of

the ashes Old-world Jeju’s fragile existence hangs in the balance

Luna Lee

Gayageum guru proves Hendrix (almost) sounds better on 25 silken strings

Laughter wit hout borders Korea’s first international comedy throw down is on its way

Easy living in Ilsan

Why a community of former partiers isn’t tempted by HBC

EDITORIAL

To comment, email editor@groovekorea.com

The Jeju of my childhood Editorial

By Peter DeMarco

J

eju’s mythic volcanic statues — known as stone grandfathers, or dol hareubang — have altered the course of my life. For most tourists who visit the island, they are no more than a kitsch souvenir: a last-minute airport gift in the form of a keychain or orange-flavored chocolate. For many who live on Jeju, they are gods that offer protection and fertility, as well as centuries-old symbols of Buddhism and shamanism. But for me, they’re a symbol as powerful as the giant statues on Easter Island or the faces carved in stone at Angkor Wat. When I was 6, I lived on Jeju for a year with my family. We flew halfway around the world to live on what was then a poor little island at the end of nowhere. When we left, one of the things we brought back was a dol hareubang statue carved out of porous volcanic rock.

I was so young when I went to Jeju that as I got older, I wondered if the island even existed.

The statue was the only physical evidence that our trip ever happened. When I moved away to college I took my stone grandfather with me. From then on it became my talisman, a

reminder to keep searching for the mythical nafication of the island as increasing numand magical in the everyday. I knew I would go bers of Chinese now enter Jeju visa-free. In fact, a major cruise line will run 33 voyages a back — had to go back — one day.

Years went by. My statue followed me from year from Shanghai to Jeju in 2015 for over Boston to Barcelona and beyond. By the time 60,000 passengers. And that’s just the beI hit my 30s, I felt like I had to make my re- ginning.

Billy Joel’s song about change, “We Didn’t turn trip to Jeju or I never would. I drew up my own little romantic pilgrimage route. It started Start the Fire,” played in my head as I tried in Mongolia, ran through China, then on to to figure out where the Jeju of my childhood Seoul and finally ended on Jeju. I bought a went. I knew it would be different, just not that ticket, packed my bag and left for Asia. When much. Even though the island transformed, I finally arrived on the island in 2007, I couldn’t Jeju still is what it always has been: one of the most intriguing and mystical islands in Asia. recognize it.

There was a multimillion-dollar World Cup Little by little, parts of the old Jeju came back stadium, a sex sculpture theme park, a ted- to me. It usually happened when I left the tourdy bear museum, five-star resorts and huge ist trail, like when I smelled the burning brush apartment blocks. Now Jeju is the self-pro- in the fields or saw the black lava shores. At claimed Peace Island, yet a naval base big the end of my year’s stay, I felt reconnected.

I wonder, will I be able to recognize the place enough to hold 20 military vessels is being built. It has three UNESCO World Heritage if I come back 35 years from now? Regardsites, yet a huge, garish billboard for an Amer- less of the inevitable changes, I think I will forican multilevel marketing company was erect- ever feel connected to the island.

If you really want to go deep into the heart of ed right in front of one of the island’s most iconic sites: Sunrise Peak. And Jeju has one Jeju, look into the eyes of a stone grandfather, of the most distinct dialects and histories in and remember that it is you who brings Jeju all of Korea, yet locals worry about the Chi- to life.

next up: September 2014 Destinations

New Orleans: The best and the worst of America

A buddy picked me up at the airport in New Orleans, and we headed straight for the Commander’s Palace, a local landmark that features 25 cent martinis at lunch.

Upon arriving, however, we were told it would be a two-hour wait. Checking out the number of men in khakis and navy blazers, alongside women wearing proper church hats, I suspected this was a clever ploy to keep pond scum like us from lowering property values. It worked. So we found ourselves parked on the sidewalk in front of Ignatius, a well-established joint on Magazine Steeet. We had several $2 martinis (gin, dirty), perfectly paired with two po’boys: fried oysters and shrimp remoulade.

The sun was warm with the faintest bit of

12 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

Food

Little Russia’s culinary joy

chill upon the wind, and as I sat there, I was thankful I chose to visit in the winter. Like my hometown Wilmington in the Cape Fear region of North Carolina, and Charleston South Carolina, some places are best avoided in the summer, when the swamp-like conditions make everything literally drip with condensation; the muggiest of muggy.

In addition to shared climates, I was immediately struck by the similarities between all of these colonial port cities: the amazing cuisine, architecture and music that comes from this blending of cultures. Along with it, the institutionalized racism that still plagues the south as a whole. Truly, some of the best and worst America has to offer.

Beyond Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station lies a largely undiscovered piece of multicultural Seoul: Little Russia.

There are Mongolian textile shops, Uzbek travel agents, and Russian mini-marts selling vodka, caviar and pickled beets. Many of the denizens look Korean, but speak a polyphony of Central Asian and Eastern European languages: Russian, Ukrainian, Tajik, Kyrgyz, Kazakh, Uzbek and Mongolian. In fact, most residents of Little Russia are not Russian at all, but come from former Soviet states once dominated by Russia.

It’s an interesting place to walk around for an hour, but you don’t want to exaggerate the exoticness too much – like the French community in Sorae or Chinatown in Daelim, you always know you are in Korea.

The real reason to come here is for the food. We took a Korean, a New Zealander, two Americans and a Russo-Ukrainian to try out three of Little Russia’s restaurants. What we got was an afternoon of reasonably priced culinary joy.

Story by Ian Henderson

Story by Dave Hazzan

13

CONTENTS

What’s in this issue

ISSUE 94 Au gu st 2 0 1 4

46

34 WELCOME

INSIGHT

COVER STORY

Even though the island has transformed, Jeju still is what it always has been: one of the most intriguing and mystical islands in Asia.

high stakes A snapshot of the pressures facing North Korean envoys stationed abroad

Groove explores Jeju’s distinct, matriarchal — and disappearing — microculture that sits beyond the orange groves and sandy beaches.

18 Key people

32 Credit Cards — the Korean Way

Introducing some of the editors, writers and photographers behind the August issue

In the Korean credit card scene, loose spenders and late payers need not apply

19 The inbox

FOOD

12 Editorial: The Jeju of my childhood

Opinions and feedback from readers

20 Must reads

A selection of our editors’ favorite articles

22 On the Cover 24 What’s on

Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

28 the news

Drug smuggling in Korea on the rise; Man threatens immolation inside Ramada Hotel; Pensions will be divided in divorces; Pyongyang complains about Rogen, Franco film; Councilman indicted in murder case

30 For North Korea’s elite, every move is

46 An Oasis out of the Ashes

34 Soft-Serve Seoul

Dealing flavors that sound more like street names for LSD than dessert toppings, Korea’s organic ice cream fad is about to blow your mind.

38 Crustacean Sensation

Your sandwich game has a fever, and the only cure is more lobster. Head to Itaewon for a surprisingly affordable Atlantic indulgence.

40 Smoothie Party!

Break out your blender, your greens and your flavor-pairing A-game — the solution to your nutrition slump is on its way

Check out our GrooveCast episodes on these stories at groovekorea.com.

66 Destinations

66 Echoes of Jeju

A former expat revisits his young family’s year in 1970s Jeju and the parts of island life that will never be the same.

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CONTENTS

What’s in this issue

ISSUE 94 Au gu st 2 0 1 4

76

70 Music & Arts

Community

Distractions

Laughter without Borders Seoul’s diverse comedy crowds are nothing to be afraid of. The fear of crashing and burning in front of them, however, is perfectly legit.

Easy Living in Ilsan Sex, drugs and peaceful domestic bliss: Welcome to Seoul’s expat suburb.

GROOVE LISTINGS Doctors, travel agencies, restaurants, hotels, airlines, nightclubs and more

70

74 New Generation of Ska

Watch out, Sinchon: The ska scene is about to out-skank you in the best way possible.

76 Luna Lee

82

86 At Home in Korea

While living abroad himself, Korean native Kwon Young-hun learned what foreigners on the peninsula need most, and decided to make it happen

90 94

COMICS

95

GAMES

96

HOROSCOPES

A local gayageum player is using her fine, silken strings to cause a rock-driven sensation on YouTube.

78

Artist’s Journey Having collaborated with a who’s who of DJ talent in English Korea, KALA is bringing her fractalinspired sound to center stage.

80 AT THE BOX OFFICE

“Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles” (Aug. 28) “You’re Next” (Aug. 7)

81 DVD CORNER

“The Suspect (용의자)” “Confession of Murder (내가 살인범이다)”

88 88 Make ‘em Laugh

Korea’s first International Comedy Competition hopes to launch the next East Asian comedic dynasty.

Check out our GrooveCast episodes on these stories at groovekorea.com.

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Credits - Contributors

KOREA

K EY PE OPLE

Some of the editors, writers and photographers behind this month’s issue

4th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Jenny Na U.S.

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com E D I TORIA L Editorial Director Elaine Ramirez elaine@groovekorea.com Insight Editor Matthew Lamers mattlamers@groovekorea.com Community Editor Jenny Na jenny@groovekorea.com Music & Arts Editor Emilee Jennings emilee@groovekorea.com Food & Destinations Editor Shelley DeWees shelley@groovekorea.com Editor-at-large John M. Rodgers jmrseoul@gmail.com Senior Copy Editor Jaime Stief Copy Editors Daniel Deacon, Kevin Lee Selzer GrooveCast Host Chance Dorland chance@groovemedia.co.kr Social Media Team Celeste Maturen A RT & D E S I G N Art Director Park Seong-eun sam@groovekorea.com Illustration Director Wilfred Lee wilfred@groovemedia.co.kr Design Adviser Prof. Kim Duck-mo

Jenny is a Korean adoptee with an interest in human rights and social justice issues.

Outside of that, she’s in the kitchen making blended beverages, in the yoga studio, at the pool, or at the computer planning her next trip to oceans near and far. Jenny is Groove’s Community Editor.

Dave Hazzan Canada

Dave Hazzan eats, writes and drinks in Ilsan.

He has published in Groove Korea, 10 Magazine, Broke in Korea, Maximum Rocknroll, Terminal City and elsewhere in Korea and North America. His second novel, “The Ash Pilgrimage,” will be released in the fall. Check out his website at www.davehazzan.com.

Wilfred Lee M A R KE T I NG & A D M I NI S T R ATI O N CFO Steve Seung-Jin Lee steve.lee@groovekorea.com Marketing Executive Jay Park jpark@groovemedia.co.kr Manager Peter Chong yschong@groovekorea.com Accounting Choi Hye-won Web, I.T. Dan Himes danhimes@groovekorea.com W R I TE RS & P R O O F R E A D E R S

Alejandro Callirgos, Alexander Hall, Anita McKay, Anna Schlotjes, Annie Narae Lee, Anthony Levero, Beryl Sinclair, Christopher Green, Connor Dearing, Conor O’Reilly, Conrad Hughes, Daniel Deacon, Daniel Kang, Dave Hazzan, Dean Crawford, Deva Lee, Eileen Cahill, Elaine Knight, Felix Im, George Kalli, Haeryun Kang, Hyunwoo Sun, Ian Henderson, Ian McClellan, Jamie Keener, Jean Poulot, John Power, Kellie Ell, Ken Fibbe, Ken Hall, Kyndra Love, Leslie Finlay, Liam Mitchinson, Matt VanVolkenburg, Paul Sharkie, Rajnesh Sharma, Remy Raitt, Ron Roman, Ryan Ritter, Sean Maylone, Shireen Tofig, Simon Hunter-Williams, Sophie Boladeras, Stephanie Anglemyer, Timothy Cushing, Walter Stucke, Wilfred Lee

PH OTOGR A P H E R S & I L L U S TRATO RS

Andrew Faulk, Colin Dabbs, Craig Stuart, Darren Farrell, Dirk Schlottmann, Don Sin, Dylan Goldby, Fergus Scott, Hannah Green, James Anderson, James Kim, Jen Lee, Jessica Lia, Jon Linke, Jungeun Jang, Kaegan Saenz, Kevin Kilgore, Merissa Quek, Michael Hurt, Michael Roy, Min Pang, Nicholas Stonehouse, Nina Sawyer, Pat Volz, Peter DeMarco, Rob Green, Sabrina Hill, Samantha Whittaker

Publisher Sean Choi sean@groovekorea.com To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

To write a letter to the editor, email editor@groovekorea.com.

To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com.

To promote your event, email events@groovekorea.com.

To advertise, email ads@groovekorea.com.

The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

© All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2014

18 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

Canada

In pursuit of his multicultural roots, Wilfred Lee left Canada to travel 12 hours into the future and discover what Korea has to offer. Working as a concept designer, he’s also the host for Artist’s Journey and a comedian, musician, writer and animator. He loves meeting interesting people, inspiring others to draw and writing stories about his dreams. Check out the Artist’s Journey podcasts at www.artistsjourney.org. Wilfred writes the monthly Artist’s Journey column.

Shelley DeWees U.S.

Shelley is a freelance writer and professor of English living in Seoul. Originally from Missoula, Montana, she earned an MA in ethnomusicology and worked as a vegan chef for a Buddhist monastery before moving to Korea. She’s also an avid distance runner and will release her first book, a collection of biographies on British women writers, in 2015. Shelley is Groove’s Food and Travel Editor.

Paul Sharkie U.K.

A native of Edinburgh, Scotland, Paul Sharkie caught the travel bug after spending several summers in Asia, and dropped everything to head to Korea. What was meant to be a year turned into almost four and now he finds himself as Shinhan Bank’s foreign client relationship manager. Paul enjoys traveling, reading, exercising and dining, and fully admits that this is where all his money goes. Meeting new people is of paramount importance — as is converting his friends to sensible banking. Paul writes the Money column.

TH E I N B OX Groove readers’ opinions and feedback

Does Korea have an alcohol problem?

Nowadays, the belief that Russia is the most heavily drinking nation seems rather like a prejudice. How could one nation drink that much more? I understood it, however, when I first saw how much the people of the Land of the Morning Calm drink — often not out of desperation, but rather a sense of duty. The reason is Korea’s specific drinking culture, one where alcohol occupies a special place in the national consciousness.

It’s very common, for example, to see drunken people stumbling down the street in the late evening on a Friday night, or even seeing entire groups of office workers or students leaning on each other on their way to the nearest subway station. Some of these revelers, whether well-dressed white-collar workers or female students, can be found sitting or lying on the street or subway stairs.

Such images — a common sight in the commercial and entertainment areas of Seoul — can shock foreigners who are visiting Korea for the first time.

According to WHO statistics, Korea is the most alcohol-consuming nation in Asia. The WHO report, published in 2014, shows that Korea’s consumption among adults (aged 15 and older) is approximately 12.3 liters of alcohol per capita per year. Furthermore, Korea’s best-known alcoholic beverage — soju — holds 97 percent of the alcohol market in Korea, and is sold more than twice as much as any other spirit in the world.

While having a conversation with Koreans, you will surely be asked questions about your ability to drink alcoholic beverages such as “술 잘 먹어요?” (Literally: Are you good at drinking alcohol?). Such questions are hard to answer, especially for foreigners. For example, in my home country of Uzbekistan, it’s unacceptable for a woman to drink excessive amounts of alcohol, or even to admit to having done so. But in Korea, a negative answer to these questions can break your friendship with a Korean. Such actions are brought about by Koreans’ aspiration for national solidarity, which is also a very important part of Korean culture and the national consciousness. It’s considered bad form if you differ from the rest of the collective. If everybody eats guksu (Korean noodle soup), you must eat the same. If everyone drinks beer, it would be considered criminal to order something else. Though it should be noted, however, that Koreans are also a diligent and well-organized population who brought their country to prosperity through this solidarity — one of their indisputable merits.

That being said, the alcohol story wouldn’t be so sad if those who drank alcohol did it by themselves, not bothering those who don’t like hard liquor for a variety of reasons. But the reality is the exact opposite; Koreans call themselves “술 권하는 사회,” referring to a society that enforces drinking alcohol. Now, I understand that people all over the world drink alcohol: some of them drink a lot, others don’t drink at all. But still it is a choice that each person should be able to make by him or herself. More specifically, it’s abnormal when somebody uses their authority or higher position in order to promote alcoholism in others, especially when it becomes a part of the culture and can have such pernicious consequences. It’s natural for a nation to have its own problems; the unnatural thing is when it is not trying to resolve these problems. I entertain a hope that the younger generation of Koreans will change the current situation, or that the government will pay more attention to the issue.

By Elena Kan, international economics and law student, Hankuk University of Foreign Studies

MUST READS

A selection from our editors

M U ST READs Crustacean sensation

An oasis out of the ashes

Page 38

Page 46

Tucked into a corner at the top of a wooden staircase in Itaewon is Lobster Bar, a tiny and welcoming little refuge for those craving the comforts of the Atlantic Ocean. Whether you’re looking for succulent chunks of pink claw on a bun or an entire animal to crack open and mine through, few places in town serve lobster so proudly low-key.

Jeju’s island culture is so distinct that its people developed an extreme dialect of Korean. But this dialect, along with much else of what constitutes the essence of Jeju, is facing rapid erosion — its characteristic maritime religion, methods of subsistence, language and culture are on the brink of extinction.

Echoes of Jeju

New generation of ska festival

Page 66

Page 74

Thirty-five years ago, my family moved to Jeju Island for just over a year — I was just 6 then — and while we were there, my father took a bunch of photographs.

The exotic images and my own experience of living in Korea as a child were enough to convince me to one day go back. Now that we’ve digitized the photos, I wanted to find out the stories behind them.

Shine your two-tone shoes, don that pork pie hat and get your skanking ass out to Sinchon for the New Generation of Ska Festival 2014. What is ska? It’s a type of popular music, originally from Jamaica, that first appeared in the early 1950s and is a precursor to rocksteady and reggae. Since then, it has been through many incarnations, and now has a healthy following in Seoul’s Hongdae neighborhood.

Artist’s Journey

Easy living in Ilsan

Page 78

Page 82

Since arriving in Korea, Kholo Matsafu has stepped up to every opportunity that has crossed her path. The MC-turned-musician has worked hard to fine-tune her “musical vocabulary” and, unafraid of skipping across genres and media, the singer is ready to share her serene aura and deep, sultry voice with her fans in Korea and abroad.

One of the fastest-growing cities in Korea, Ilsan is split into two districts, east and west, in the city of Goyang. Twenty kilometers north of Seoul, Ilsan is dense with housing, shopping, vegetation and foreigners. Newfoundlander Shawn Morrissey arrived in December 2000. “I could go two or three days and not see another foreigner,” Morrissey says. “Now you can’t walk down the street and not see one.”

20 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

C OVER An oasis out of the ashes

Between the volcanic eruptions and the Japanese invasion, Jeju is a portrait of cultural survival under fire — literally and figuratively.

But it’s more than just water that separates Jeju’s island way of life from the mainland. The nuances of the community’s dialect, memorial sites and unique fishing practices have earned it multiple UNESCO designations for possessing distinct cultural assets that merit preservation. Writer Ian Henderson took in the island’s sights from off the beaten path, exploring the less polished — but no less picturesque — side of Jeju Island.

Read the story on Page 46.

Cover photo by Douglas MacDonald Design by Park Seong-eun

O u r pa st three iss u es

July 2014

June 2014

May 2014

Itaewon freedom Reflections on a restaurant Get your garden growing

Down the Marmot’s Hole More than cod Urban exploration

The women’s issue The art of the tease From Seoul to Chuncheon on a bike

W hat ’ s O n SUN

MON

TUE

August WED

THU

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q *All the events published in this calendar are subject to unforeseen changes by the promoters. Groove Korea does not take responsibility for any misunderstandings or third-party damage.

For suggestions or comments, email events@groovekorea.com

3

4

5

11th Seoul International Dance Competition

Kia Tigers vs. Doosan Bears

Dance

@ Arko Theater in Daehangno; last day; koreapac.kr Rose & Crown

SUNDAY SPECIAL

House wine at 5,000 won

Wing night (Mondays) @ Craftworks, Noksapyeong; craftworkstaphouse.com

Sports

6

Hyundai Card Citybreak 2014

@ Jamsil Stadium; 6:30p; mykbo.net

@ Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon; 9p; rockymountaintavern.com

SK Wyverns vs. Nexen Heroes

ARTS

@ Mokdong; 6:30p; mykbo.net

Wing night (Wednesdays)

4,000 won for 10 wings @ Bull & Barrel, Itaewon

11

12 Korean Street Food & BBQ Tour

(Maroon 5, Ozzy Osborne, Pentatonix)

@ O’ngo Culinary School; 1p; ongofood.com

@ World Cup Stadium; citybreak. superseries.kr

17 WEEKEND SPECIAL

ROSE & CROWN

10% off food orders; 1-5p; Sat. & Sun.

Comedy

Stand Up Seoul

@ Rose & Crown, Itaewon; blog.naver.com/rosencrown12

10

7

Musical

Nanta!

@ Myungdong or Chung jungno Nanta Theaters; special summer discounts; nanta.i-pmc.co.kr

18

19

Fright Night

Hedwig and the Angry Inch

Tour

@ Hwa-am Cave, Gangwon, last day; jsimc.or.kr/sub/ sub05_experience.asp Comedy

Musical

@ BaekAm Art Hall, Samsungdong; to Sept. 28; interpark.com

13 @ Korea Manhwa Museum in Korea Manhwa Contents Agency (KOMACON); to Aug. 17; bicof.com

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Quiz night (Wednesdays) @ Craftworks, Noksapyeong; craftworkstaphouse.com

@ Craftworks Taphouse Namsan; 6-10p; 15,000won

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25

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27

Musical

“Pulitzer Prize Photographs: Capture the Moment”

Miso-Baebijangjun

Pizza night 5,000 won off

Nam June Paik Archives: Rheinland

31 Musical

42nd Street

@ Seoul Arts Center; last day; sac.or.kr

Music Show Wedding

@ Hongdae Music Show Wedding Theater; nanta.i-pmc.co.kr ARTS

Hwang Kyu-tae:

Photography after Photography

@ Seoul Museum of Art; to Nov. 14; sema.seoul.go.kr

@ Seoul Arts Center; to Sept. 14; sac.or.kr

Quiz night 9p

@ Bull & Barrel, Itaewon

21

Comedy

Open mic

@ Orange Tree in HBC; (02) 749-8202 Live music

Open mic

@ National Museum of Contemporary Art, Gwacheon; last day; mmca.go.kr

Supersonic 2014

Mood Salon

@ Tony’s, Itaewon; tonysitaewon.com

Kang Chan-kyun

14

@ Jamsil Sports Complex, Olympic Park; supersonickorea.co.kr

Tuesday BBQ night

ARTS

@ Seoul Arts Center; to Sept. 17; sac.or.kr

Bucheon International Comics Festival

@ Rose & Crown, Itaewon; blog.naver.com/rosencrown12

ARTS

“The Great Artists of the 20th Century: From Renoir to Damien Hirst”

@ Jebi Dabang, Hongdae; free but donations welcome; 9p

Dance

28

@ Jeongdong Theater; to Aug. 31; interpark.com ARTS

@ National Museum of Contemporary Art; to Sept. 30; mmca.go.kr

See our story on Page 80

FRI

1

Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival @ Incheon Penta Park; to Aug. 3; pentaportrock.com/2013/main2014

S AT

2

Disco experience with Faze action @ B-One Lounge, Itaewon; b1itaewon.com

Busan Sea Festival

@ 5 beaches in Busan; to Aug. 7; seafestival.co.kr

MUD CRAZY

2014 Summer Beach K-EDM Festiv @ Boryeong Daechon Beach

8

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“Kkotjebi in Bloom: North Korean Children’s Flight to Freedom”

(Maroon 5, Ozzy Osborne, Pentatonix)

ARTS

@ Gallery IS; Aug. 6-11; NKHRevents@gmail.com

Hyundai Card Citybreak 2014

@ World Cup Stadium; citybreak.superseries.kr

P.T.T.L with Grid

@ CLUB MUTE, Itaewon; clubmute.com

Live music

Rise Again (Korean reggae concert) @ Muv Hall; 8p; muvhall.co.kr

15

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SUPER X SUMMER FESTIVAL

@ Walkerhill Riverpark www.superxkorea.com

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Just us with DJ WOW @ B-One Lounge, Itaewon; b1itaewon.com

Journey

@ CLUB MUTE, Itaewon; clubmute.com

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ONNO (Netherlands)

Wig out

@ CLUB MUTE, Itaewon; clubmute.com

30

@ B-One Lounge, Itaewon; b1itaewon.com Live music

My My

@ Jebi Dabang, Hongdae; free but donations welcome; 9p

ffanyourself

@ CLUB MUTE, Itaewon; clubmute.com

Seoul International Comedy Competition

9:30 p.m.; see our story on Page 88

New Generation of Ska Festival 2 p.m.; see our story on Page 74

Column by Dr. Lee Moon Won

Hair loss!

Let’s treat it and dispel some misconceptions

W

hen I have conversations with the people who visit my clinic because of hair loss problems, I see that some of them have misconceptions about hair loss.

One such misconception is that genetic hair loss is incurable, which is why many people give up on treatment. Hair loss can be genetic, but the notion that genetic hair loss is incurable is grossly inaccurate.

There are many serious diseases that may also be hereditary, but even if a disease is genetic, there is often still hope that the disease can be cured. Hair loss is also a disease, and should be approached similarly. Despite the fact that one of your parents may have experienced hair loss, you should approach hair loss like a treatable disease.

Besides heredity, there are a variety of other factors that can contribute to hair loss; just because one of your relatives has experienced the disease does not necessarily mean that this gene has been transmitted to you.

According to a recent study conducted in the United Kingdom involving two twins experiencing hair loss, the twins had both inherited hair loss from their parents, but each twin had a different response to the disease. This means that, even though heredity cannot be avoided, a disease’s transmission

depends on a variety of factors. In other words, even with the hair loss gene, the external factors are more important in terms of further contributing to hair loss.

As a result, if you are having a hair loss problem, there is no need to be afraid that the problem is unresolvable, and certainly no need to complain to your parents!

Another common misconception is that patients think they’ll need to take medicine for the rest of their lives, assuming that drugs for male hair loss are only effective while actively consumed. These days, however, there are a lot of treatments that are effective in preventing hair loss and can maintain their effects for a much longer time, eliminating the “lifetime of treatment” stigma.

The same goes for female hair loss treatment: Some forms of treatment are perfectly capable of long-term effects.

In short, hair loss does not necessarily require continuous treatment or medication; after the treatment, a patient simply needs to keep up proper maintenance and sensible hair care.

Nowadays, as technology has advanced, if you start treatment in the early stages, it is possible to not only cure hair loss, but to prevent hair loss and keep your hair for a long time.

Comprehensive medical head spa treatment program The following spa treatment procedures stimulate, restore scalp lipid balance and slow down the hair bulb aging process, which is one of the reasons for their appearance of gray hair. After the SPA treatment procedure your hair will be silky, shiny and manageable, and will gain volume and vitality.

Anti-stress Anti-Aging Medical Medical Head Spa Head Spa

Luxury Medical Head Spa

Aromatherapy Scaling (Scalp peeling procedure) Scalp therapy (RF scalp regeneration therapy) Hair therapy (OX-therapy) Nourishing and revitalizing mask packs based on organic ingredients Relaxing massage (shoulders, neck area)

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All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

N a t i o n a l

N e w s

with

August 2014 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Drug Smuggling in Korea on the Rise Korea’s illicit drug trade is at an all-time high, with a record amount of drugs smuggled into the country in the first half of this year, according to a report released yesterday by the Korea Customs Service.

According to the report, law enforcement officials seized 51.8 kilograms of illicit drugs worth 119.5 billion won from January through June.

The amount was a record high and represented a 61 percent increase compared to the previous period. The number of detected drug-smuggling cases stood at 153, a 20 percent jump from the same period in 2013.

The authorities said that methamphetamine accounted for the largest share (40.4 kilograms) of drugs seized, followed by synthetic cannabis (9.2 kilograms) and pure

marijuana (1.8 kilograms). The amount of methamphetamine smuggled within the past six months has already surpassed the total for all of 2013.

Officials attributed the surge, in part, to one case in which smugglers were caught with a haul of meth that was stored in a cargo ship from China. The shipment contained 6.1 kilograms of meth with a street value of 18.3 billion won.

The customs office uncovered the case on June 1 in Gohyeon Port in Geoje, South Gyeongsang. It also pointed to the increasing use of international mail in delivering illegal drugs, as more Koreans buy illegal substances from foreign websites and have them delivered by regular post straight to their doors.

The number of international parcels that contain drugs increased to 108 during the first half of this year from 74 over the same period last year.

Korea has a reputation as a country that is largely free of narcotics, and drug trafficking is generally considered a minor concern.

However, the nation has seen a rise in drug trafficking cases in recent years. The number of drug-smuggling cases uncovered by the Korea Customs Service rose from 150 in 2009 to 232 in 2012.

Acknowledging the recent rise, the agency vowed to root out illicit drug trading. “We will strengthen the monitoring of international parcels and increase the number of drug-detection dogs at ports and the international airports,” the customs office said.

Man threatens immolation inside Ramada Hotel A hostess bar owner threatened to commit suicide by setting a fire in a guest room in the Ramada Seoul Hotel in the posh Gangnam District, and police scrambled to stop him for 11 hours.

Around 6 p.m., police were told that a strong smell of gasoline was coming from a seventh floor guest room in the hotel in Samseong-dong, southern Seoul.

A 49-year-old man surnamed Park, whose hostess bar in the hotel’s basement had been shut temporarily on grounds of being a den of prostitution, poured 20 liters of gasoline around the hotel room and threatened to set himself on fire unless he was taken to meet Moon Byung-wook, chairman of the Ramada Group, formerly called the Sun and Moon Group. Police negotiators communicated with Park via the phone in the room and cellphone, trying to persuade

28 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

him to turn himself in.

Nearly 200 hotel guests and staff were evacuated from the building. Around 100 firefighters were on standby along with 22 fire trucks, and roads were blocked off to prepare for an emergency scenario.

A conflagration was averted when Park finally turned himself in the following morning around 4:50 a.m. He was arrested by police for obstructing the hotel’s business and fire code violations.

According to police, Park managed a hostess bar in the basement of the hotel between 2005 and May 2012, when he was accused of recruiting prostitutes and forced to suspend business for two months.

Park continued to run the business even after the lease with the hotel ended in 2012, but he reportedly had difficulty meeting the monthly rent. He eventually became

embroiled in an eviction lawsuit against the hotel, and in February, the court ruled against Park.

Ramada Hotel was involved in a crackdown on prostitution from 2005 to 2012, and in January, Chairman Moon was charged with running a prostitution business that made 7 billion won in profit.

In the suit against Moon, Park had been accused of being an accomplice to Moon in running the prostitution business, which took place in his hostess bar and in guest rooms upstairs. He claimed he was not involved and was merely a tenant of the hotel.

Park told police yesterday that the hotel management told him that if he accepted the court ruling in February, it would pay him compensation and take care of his employees’ overdue wages, “but they did not keep their promise.”

Pensions will be divided in divorces The Supreme Court ruled yesterday that a pension or severance payment expected in the future should be included in the property to be divided when a married couple files for divorce, ending a 1995 precedent that ruled the opposite.

Since the law was revised in 1990, it has become common for divorcing couples to divide their property. Previously, assets accumulated during marriages were considered to belong to the spouse with economic power, usually husbands.

But retirement payments were excluded in the division because it was difficult to calculate how big they would be or whether the retiring spouse would encounter difficulties in getting the payment.

The suit yesterday was a divorce suit filed by a woman against her husband after 14 years of marriage. In the process of the trial, the husband requested a share of the plaintiff’s pension, claiming he had contributed to his wife’s career.

The Daejeon High Court, which handled the first appeal, followed the precedent of nearly 20 years ago and rejected the husband’s request, saying that a pension that is not fixed cannot be divided in case of divorce and should simply be considered as one factor when dividing assets in general.

The Supreme Court yesterday quashed the decision and referred the case back to the high court.

It explained that the issue was not particularly

uncertain because most workers receive severance payments when leaving jobs; there is no clear standard of including it as a factor when couples divide assets; and that excluding severance payments in divorces for couples before retirement would be unfair compared to those who divorce after retirement.

The court added that pensions being paid at the time of divorce should be divided as well.

“Retirement pensions of government employees is like deferred payment for duties performed during marriages,” said the court yesterday. “An asset jointly contributed to by husband and wife can’t be excluded just because they don’t know the exact amount.”

The plaintiff in the case ruled upon was a teacher, a government employee.

Analysts said the Supreme Court took into consideration the increasing value of retirement payments in Korea’s aging society. The rate of so-called twilight divorces, or breakups of couples that have been married 20 years or longer, was 28.1 percent last year, up from 22.8 percent in 2009. The rate is expected to rise with Korea’s life expectancy.

The life expectancy of Koreans in 2012 stood at 81.2 years.

Other analysts say the ruling reflects a recent trend to make divorces more fair for women.

According to a dissertation last year on divorces, cases in which women took more than 50 percent of the assets accounted for 22.5 percent, up from 5.4 percent in 1998.

Prosecutors yesterday indicted Seoul Metropolitan Councilman Kim Hyung-sik for arranging the murder of a wealthy 67-year-old businessman and landowner who allegedly paid him kickbacks for political favors and was threatening to expose him.

They also brought murder charges against his 44-year-old alleged accomplice, surnamed Paeng.

In a briefing, the Seoul Southern District Prosecutors’ Office released the results of its investigation into the alleged murder of the businessman, who was surnamed Song. They charged Kim with making arrangements for his friend Paeng to carry out the killing in the early morning of March 3 in a residential building in Naebalsan-dong, Gangseo District, southwestern Seoul.

Paeng, who has been friends with Kim for a decade, allegedly owed Kim 70 million won and agreed to carry out the murder if his debt was cancelled.

At the time Song was killed, Kim was preparing a re-election bid for the Seoul Metropolitan Council in local elections that were held June 4.

On March 3, Paeng allegedly knocked Song out in the building in Gangseo that the real estate

magnate owned. Officials said Paeng then killed Song by hitting him on the head with a blunt object multiple times.

Kim allegedly received 520 million won in kickbacks from Song between October 2010 and December 2011. Song wanted Kim to help with the rezoning of Naebalsan-dong from residential to commercial use.

The kickbacks included tens of millions of won in free alcohol, prosecutors said. The payments were recorded in Song’s personal financial ledger, which had daily records of all expenditures since 1991. The final entry in the ledger was on March 1.

When the rezoning was delayed, Song grew impatient and threatened Kim that he would raise the issue to the public. Kim feared that his political career would come to an end and allegedly started planning the murder in 2012, according to prosecutors.

Kim denied all the charges and has pleaded innocent. After the alleged murder, Paeng fled to China. When Chinese police caught up with him, he appealed for help from Kim. Paeng felt betrayed when the councilman advised him to commit suicide numerous times, according to investigators.

Councilman indicted in murder case

Pyongyang complains about Rogen, Franco film North Korea has complained to the United Nations about a film starring actors Seth Rogen and James Franco, accusing the United States of sponsoring terrorism and committing an act of war by allowing the production of a movie with a plot to kill its leader, Kim Jong-un.

“The Interview,” due to be released later this year, is about an American television-show host and his producer, who land an interview with Kim Jong-un and are then recruited by the U.S. Central Intelligence Agency to assassinate the North Korean leader, according to the Internet Movie Database.

The letter to U.N. Secretary General Ban Ki-moon from North Korea’s UN Ambassador Ja Song-nam — dated June 27, but made public since then — does not mention the name of the film but talks about a plot that “involves insulting and assassinating the supreme leadership.”

“To allow the production and distribution of such a film on the assassination of an incumbent head of a sovereign state should be regarded as the most undisguised sponsoring of terrorism, as well as an act of war,” Ja said.

“The United States authorities should take immediate and appropriate actions to ban the production and distribution of the aforementioned film; otherwise, it will be fully responsible for encouraging and sponsoring terrorism,” he wrote.

Ja attached a June 25 article by the state’s official Korean Central News Agency slamming the film with similar rhetoric.

Actor Rogen said on Twitter the same day: “People don’t usually wanna kill me for one of my movies until after they’ve paid 12 bucks for it.”

29

INSIGHT Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

The North Korea Column

For North Korea’s elite, every move is high stakes Column by Christopher Green / Illustration by Michael Roy

I

f you were an ordinary, upper-class North Korean, how would you navigate your way through life? Imagine you owned a digital camera, a rice cooker (made by South Korean firm Cuckoo), a television (a gift from a benevolent Kim), and, to put the icing on the cake, you were posted abroad in China. You would be doing the state’s bidding, in a financial sense at least, and therefore would have a measure of power and authority. On the other hand, your power and authority wouldn’t really add up to much, since control over your life, death and liberty would reside elsewhere.

What type of relationship would you form with the North Korean state under such circumstances?

For a tiny but increasing number of today’s North Koreans, this is more than just an amusing parlor game. It is a high-stakes question. For five years or so, the government in Pyongyang has been working harder than ever on the issue of how to guarantee flows of hard currency. I do not mean to suggest that the state has seen the light and is embracing “economic reform” at last.

Rather, the Kim regime needs to ensure that it can afford the fuel that the “theater state” demands to function, so that the coercive flame of Kimist dominance burns on in the minds of domestic audiences, irrespective and in spite of the country’s end-

lessly inefficient, anacronistic social and economic structure. This is being done in part

through business interests based in China, and, whether the jittery regime likes it or not,

these kinds of business activities suck up manpower.

Needless to say, living in China as an envoy of the Kimist capital is not an endless whirl of cocktail parties and days spent at the mall. Whereas illegal border-crossers from the North find themselves at risk of forced repatriation and imprisonment (on those occasions when bribery doesn’t cut the mustard, or the transgressor is deemed unworthy of a self-flagellatory televised apology for foolishly opting to leave in the first place), legal visitors “merely” live under state surveillance, report and are reported upon, and, for all but the most eliteof-elite, are obliged to bow before the Kim dynasty at various meetings of one sort or another.

First among these meetings is the birthday of Kim Il-sung, North Korea’s long deceased founding father. The day, April 15, is known as the Day of the Sun, and the sanctioned means of celebrating it is to gather early in the morning at Yuwen Middle School in Jilin, where Kim spent a number of years studying in the 1920s before he was jailed for his subversive militancy.

The event at Yuwen is not particularly grand: there are a few balloons, a brass band, and some beautiful Korean hanbok. As those digital cameras flick and click beneath a bronze statue of a youthful revolutionary Kim,

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Christopher Green is the manager of international affairs for Daily NK, an online periodical reporting on North Korean affairs from Seoul.

The opinions expressed here are the author’s and do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. For more information, visit dailynk.com.

30 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

Where my child’s smile is concerned, I want the best. Any father would feel the same.

The only way to find a person in China sporting a Kim pin badge with any sincerity is to hunt down Alejandro Cao de Benos, the cartoon chairman of the Korean Friendship Association. Real North Koreans take them off whenever possible, it seems, and regard the Day of the Sun, when they must be worn, as a challenge. his very own ode, “Song of Kim Il-sung,” sounds out over a police cordon provided by Jilin’s finest municipal security services. The event plays a vital role for North Korea: (1) it is a centerpiece of the idolization of the Kim family as the revolutionary defender of the nation and its people; furthermore, (2) it is used to measure and reinforce the loyalty of North Korean citizens stationed abroad.

However, the Chinese government has absolutely zero incentive to draw attention to either of these matters, and so it is an open question whether the extensive police presence that accompanies the event is designed to keep rogue anti-DPRK elements out, or to ensure that the never-ending process of manufacturing revolutionary history does not cross the line of that which Beijing is prepared to permit. Kimism is a thorn in the side of the entire Manchurian region; it’s only natural that it would be fenced in.

People dress well at such times. Aside from wonderfully colorful hanbok, men dress in sharp business suits. Some, though not many, come by car; the majority is bused in and out. Ubiquitous Kim pin badges are on display.

However, vignettes drawn out from the formality reveal a studied ambivalence about the subtext of the gathering: For one thing, there is no mass rush to stop those who evade the police cordon to get into the garden and take pictures. Infinitely more telling than this, however, is evidence that younger North Koreans here are going out of their way to hide, obscure or transform the meaning of their pin badges. One has it pinned to a coat pocket at waist height, while another pins it to a handkerchief nestling inside a breast pocket. A third has it pinned on as intended, but wears a stylish long jacket that almost entirely covers it.

Foreigners often laugh at these pin badges, regarding them as a regressive symbol of the North Korean government’s staunch refusal to bear witness to the end of the Cold War. If these young people can be said to offer any guide, foreigners are not alone in thinking this way. Ordinarily, the only way to find a person in China sporting a Kim pin badge with any sincerity is to hunt down Alejandro Cao de Benos, the cartoon chairman of the Korean Friendship Association. Real North Koreans take them off whenever possible, it seems, and regard the Day of the Sun, when they must be worn, as a challenge.

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INSIGHT Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

The Money column

Credit cards — the Korean way Want a credit card in Korea?

Here is some useful information before applying Column by Paul Sharkie / Illustration by Rob Green

O

ne of the more common conversations I have with customers involves a line of questioning that starts like this: “I think I need a credit card …. How can I get one as quickly as possible?” My initial response to this kind of request is not what you might think. More specifically, I would advise any prospective applicant to consider why they want a card and remind them that, beyond the basic concept of paying your bill on time each month, credit cards are managed a bit differently in Korea.

Put simply, the cards offered here generally do not operate on a minimum payment system as they do in other places around the world.

Here, the majority of the balance, if not all, must be paid each month. If you fail to do so, or make a late payment, this oversight can negatively

affect your credit limit and credit rating much more immediately than you might expect if you were living elsewhere.

In countries where you are only required to submit a minimum monthly payment, the convenience of having credit is understood to be paired with high interest rates on the remaining balance. While this is fine for some, for others the credit system often results in bills that become unmanageable due to their rising minimum payments.

By contrast, Korean credit card policies tend to encourage people to live slightly more within their means. In other words, you should not see your Korean credit card as another source of income. This often means tighter eligibility criteria to get a card in the first place, as well as lower credit limits for new customers or late payers.

ABOUT THE writer Paul Sharkie is the Foreign Client Relationship Manager for Shinhan Bank’s Foreign Customer Department. Please visit Shinhan Expat Banking on Facebook for more information. The banking information provided in this column is based on Shinhan Bank policies and may not be applicable to all banks in Korea. — Ed.

32 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

Though newcomers to the Korean credit system might find the process daunting, it’s actually a lot simpler than you might think.

In Korea, your credit card is linked to your bank account, and the balance due is automatically deducted each month. Provided that you have the funds in your account, these payments shouldn’t present any problems. What is very important, however, is to be aware of your automatic payment date and make sure you have a sufficient balance in your account. In addition to an online or paper bill, you can also call your respective institution’s card call center to find out what the balance of your next bill is. You can even request such information be sent to you via text message. With regards to the latter option, even if this service isn’t available in English, the messages usually make it quite obvious how much you’ll have to pay and on which date.

If you have spent a little too much in the previous month, you do have the option to call your card company and ask them to split the payments into one or more transactions over an agreed number of months; in this case, the staff should advise you if any interest will be applied — something that depends on how many months you wish to spread the cost over. Shops might also ask you to split the payment. If they do not, wait a couple of days and then contact your bank. This should be done in advance of your actual billing day.

TIPS • Personally, I rarely use my debit/check card and use my credit card for almost everything I buy. I do this because a) my card provides numerous benefits, which increase the more I use it (air miles, discounts etc.) and b) my income far exceeds my credit limit on the card, which means I will always have enough money in my account to both pay the card balance and take care of my other monthly outgoings. Any leftovers get stashed into an Installment Savings Account or a Time Deposit (check your bank’s equivalents).

• If you have a good track record for paying your bills on time, why not call to request a credit limit increase? The worst thing that could happen is that they may say no. Please do consider your monthly income, though.

• Credit cards here offer lots of benefits and discounts. Shop around.

• Unlike check cards, which can carry the T-Money function that allows you to prepay for your transportation, having a credit card allows you to pay for your transport at the end of the month. Again, make sure you have enough funds in your bank account to cover this.

• Consider a “secured” credit card if you are not eligible for a regular card. Although this kind of card looks and operates like other cards, a security deposit is required, which you will get back with a small amount of interest when you close the account. Using such a card in conjunction with making timely payments will also help you build your credit profile.

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FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Soft-serve

Seoul Four ice cream parlors compete for your palate this summer Story by Sarah Edge and Jongmin Lee / Photos by Ida Marie Skeie

34 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

H

umidity, cicadas and a thirst for something other than Gatorade — these are all things that every Seoul resident will come face to face with at some point this summer. But a trend has been brewing for several months ahead of the oncoming surge of sweat; an early summer savior, some call it. Others call it the next dessert wave. At Groove, we just call it soft-serve ice cream.

The soft-serve craze has swept across Seoul and the evidence is easy to spot: Look just outside the entrance to any of these ice cream havens and you’ll nearly always see a line, not to mention the advertisements of all shapes and sizes that are omnipresent around the city. It’s a pandemic, sure, but a welcome one.

The upswing goes hand in hand with what has affectionately been called the “well-being” trend in an increasingly health conscious nation. As a spokesperson for the brand Milky Bee explained, “Consumers started looking for a ‘well-being dessert’ and soft-serve ice cream just pulled ahead by using organic milk.”

A spokesperson from another brand, Con Dorothy, weighed in as well: “Ice cream made in bulk like Baskin-Robbins has permeated Korea for about 15 years, but people have started to see it as unsanitary because it’s made in factories. People want clean and fresh food, so organic soft ice cream is becoming more and more popular.”

Soft-serve ice cream isn’t just a take-out dessert; it’s also taking over the role that coffee once played as a sit-down conversational placeholder. To put it bluntly, this market has grown faster than Tom Selleck’s mustache.

Among the titans fighting for dominance in Seoul, one brand holds the reins to what might be the most impeccable spot to build its presence. If locations were a game of poker, Con Dorothy holds the royal flush. Its fantastic location at Sinnonhyeon Station is near one of the four major exits to Gangnam’s bustling main street, not far from the nation’s biggest bookstore. That means a lot of hungry eyes devouring the inviting Con Dorothy menu — including mine.

When I visited, I went straight for the Tim Tam flavor. It may have been my past life as an Australian kicking in, but if we’re being honest, it was more likely because Tim Tam was boldly highlighted with the word “BEST!” in bright red letters.

That small, cute star glued up next to the words spoke volumes. I was ready to make my order, but then the authoritative words of Con Dorothy’s cofounder Kim Gi-hui bulldozed over me: “Make her the grapefruit flavor.”

The founders of Con Dorothy don’t take the soft-serve business too seriously.

On the contrary — they take it just seriously enough. “We had already made a name for ourselves with handmade cookies and cakes in our café. Soft-serve ice cream was added after we noticed consumers were pursuing it elsewhere.”

Con Dorothy exists within the larger company Café Dorothy, one of the few cafés in Gangnam where an evening in with coffee and cake is enhanced by a live musician or two. The location and public persona gave it the perfect position to springboard into the soft-serve action, and with a hot summer looming ahead, Dorothy has zoomed forward with a slew of unique flavors and an ongoing commitment to quality.

“We use toppings made of only organic ingredients,” Kim said. “I understand other brands use powdered yogurt, but we do not — our yogurt is made of pure, organic milk. We try our best not to use chemical elements in our ice cream as well.” Consumers are trying to suss out the brands that are all-organic, but taste is just as important.

As my palate discovered, taste and health can coincide just beautifully. The tart juice of the grapefruit paired with smooth, milky yogurt is just one of many combinations that uphold this newfound dedication to flavor. I’m not usually much of a fan of fruit and yogurt together, but when it’s done well it makes me wonder if perhaps these well-being trendsters may be on to something. Mr. Kim certainly is.

35

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

My search for soft-serve ice cream has taken us to the center of Itaewon where David Go’s Sweetruck is enjoying a strong second week after its grand opening.

Sweetrucks are all over Seoul — the royal blue and gold colors make it an easy chain to spot — but what Sweetruck does with its soft-serve is not common. Make no mistake: this concoction is nothing short of magic.

Go, an ice cream enthusiast and opportunist, couldn’t have picked a more action-packed spot for his store. Hailing from the United States, Go hopes to build up a loyal customer base in Itaewon’s regular crowd.

“I’ve always wanted to have a place where I could be myself and really relax … This presented the perfect opportunity,” he said. “Itaewon’s the perfect spot for the store. I’m from America, so this area is really comfortable for me.”

He’s not lying. Our conversation gets cut short because the store is inundated with a regular influx of customers salivating for a sweet treat, which Sweetruck is happy to deliver. Go’s secret weapon arrives in the form of the company’s specialty — the honey chip, a growing trend — but rather than having a variety of flavors to choose from, Sweetruck really embraces its honeycomb. It’s so deeply entwined with the brand that they decided to feature a bee in the logo and, according to a Sweetruck representative, their honey is endorsed by the Korea Beekeeping Association.

Go acknowledges that the menu is minimal, but assures us that there’s more to it than meets the eye. “It’s simple, but what makes us stand out is that we offer variety for our ice cream options. We have vanilla, chocolate and we also have a mix of the two.” That mix is a popular request. I decided to go for it and was not let down. The honeycomb was a fine addition too — the waxy texture shook things up a bit while also connecting the three flavors together as if they were one. Among the plethora of softserve brands claiming land all over Seoul, it’s a relief to know that classic vanilla isn’t the only option out there for those who want to keep it simple.

Despite competition running high in Gangnam, the soft-serve game still remains quite sparse in Itaewon, so Go is hopeful for his location: “It’s easy to access, it’s right by the subway and the ice cream we make here is fantastic.”

36 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

I’ll bet my bottom dollar that if you’ve rummaged through Seoul, you’ve brushed shoulders with Milkcow at some point. The brand has managed to raise itself above the noise of Hongdae and Gangnam, as well as making itself at home in the upscale back alleys of Apgujeong. Its aim? To maintain classy simplicity all the way to ground zero: our stomachs.

At first glance, Milkcow looks like it was plucked right from a 1950s middle-America town square — it’s all smiles, milkshakes and bobby socks. The flagship store in Gangnam, however, puts a modern spin on this golden era homage; the building, composed of several floors for its consumers’ convenience, is wall-to-wall glass. Put simply, what you can see from the outside — customers taking an hour for themselves with teacup-sized frozen comfort — will entice you to walk in.

The names of the flavors add another layer of intrigue: Golden Angel? Greenlight? Snowdrop? These aren’t the typical Smurf monikers you see on menus elsewhere.

Golden Angel is made with white chocolate and white

chocolate syrup. Greenlight, by contrast, uses mint syrup to give it its green color, and Snow Drop includes cotton candy and jelly beans. I went for their signature flavor, the one that everyone’s craving these days: honeycomb (again). A pinch of salt and a luscious honeycomb scoop later, I was over the moon.

The flavors were all there in that first bite. “Easy to make, easy to take,” I thought. With that first spoonful of flavor, I began to suspect that Milkcow boils down to two things: milk (the obvious one) and honey. And I was right. “We’re using 90 percent organic milk for our soft ice cream, and the syrups we use are made of honey to suit our customers’ needs for a healthy life,” a representative of Milkcow explained.

It’s a quick in-and-out at Milkcow: an easy-to-eat treat on the go, and with its signature flavor keeping customers returning regularly, it’s clear that Milkcow is in this for the long run. Plus, having two of Korea’s finest faces, Lee Jong-suk and Go Jun-hee, in their advertisements?

Well, that doesn’t hurt either.

The pulsating hub of Myeongdong requires some careful navigation, but as I made my way past the throngs of people, I encountered an ice cream parlor that vaguely resembles a Carvel cake I once ate. Milky Bee’s pastel exterior is adorably equipped to handle curious tourists — lines formed quite quickly, and it wasn’t long before the two young employees had their hands full.

The cute imagery isn’t surprising when you consider that Milky Bee’s parent company, Schneeballen Korea (those cookie balls you crack to eat), is a powerhouse in the local confectionery business and enjoys quite a consistent following. According to a representative, “Milky Bee was established in order to change the dessert trend and to show its unique taste with high quality” and uses “premium quality organic milk for (its) products.”

Milky Bee caters to three types of customers: those looking for typical ice cream options, those who want a health-conscious alternative to regular ice cream and the many others who want to walk away with something pretty to pose with in a selfie. Their menu caters to all of the above. While each dessert still comes with a standard vanilla base, topping options such as caramel brownie and mint cookie fulfill a dessert enthusiast’s need for comfort-food flavors. Health-conscious customers, by contrast, might prefer cereal and berries for their ice cream, but those in need of a nice selfie companion will bee-line for the banana and strawberry toppings — they’re the belles of the selfie ball, so to speak.

We went with banana and mint cookie, and to call each one sweet would be an understatement. The potency of the flavors almost overwhelmed the ice cream itself, but that soft, milky texture stayed true and intact.

And, who are we kidding? These really did make for a snazzy photo prop.

Though Milky Bee might be aiming for a pure and organic image, the experience felt more like visiting a candy boutique, perhaps in the 1960s New York era: sophisticated, yet whimsical.

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FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Crustacean sensation Load up on lobster at Itaewon’s newest joint Story by Dave Hazzan / Photos by Hannah Green

T

ucked into a corner at the top of a wooden staircase in Itaewon is Lobster Bar, a tiny and welcoming little refuge for those craving the comforts of the Atlantic Ocean. Whether you’re looking for succulent chunks of pink claw on a bun or an entire animal to crack open and mine through, few places in town serve lobster so proudly low-key.

It’s a new operation with just four dining options at the moment: whole grilled lobster (47,000 won), lobster grilled cheese (17,000) and Maine or Connecticut lobster rolls (17,000). For those without a budget for casual lobster consumption, the most affordable, yet traditional options on the menu are the lobster rolls: open-faced sandwiches that come on a bed of lettuce and a soft bun, with the lobster meat piled high on top. The Maine lobster roll is cold and served with mayonnaise, while the Connecticut is warm and served with butter. Both come with salad, pasta salad and shoelace French fries, and for those who prefer to skip the bread, they’ll serve the entire meal in salad form.

We ordered the Maine and Connecticut rolls, and both were superb. The Maine roll’s accompanying sauce was not overpowering (a frequent problem with mayo-based seafood dishes) and it was topped with chives and Old Bay seasoning. The Connecticut roll was warm but not hot, the butter melted and delicious. The meat was succulent and came from the claw — the best part of the creature — and it was very well prepared. The generous serving was moist

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and tasty, with no bits of shell buried inside. The lettuce was crisp and kept to a minimum, rather than piled on like in many Korean sandwiches, and the rolls’ freshness was complemented by the awesome, crunchy texture of the shoestring fries. The salad, too, was nice, free of iceberg lettuce and sprinkled with a balsamic vinaigrette (not the sweet balsamic syrup some restaurants serve instead). There was also a small serving of penne pasta salad with cherry tomatoes, a lemon for squeezing over the main course and even a proper dill pickle.

Lobster Bar serves a range of signature cocktails too, for anyone who’s still got room. There’s a lobster island iced tea, a twist on the classic Long Island, and a spiced tropical punch, which includes ginger and spicy black currant. We had the honey ginger beer, a mix of draft Cass, club soda, ginger and Manuka honey; it was delicious, with very mellow flavors — definitely the best thing to ever come out of a Cass tap. They also have canned L&P, a lemony soda from New Zealand not normally available in Korea. Otherwise, there’s red and white wine, draft Cass and the usual bottled beers.

Chris Kwon, the head lobster in charge, has built a tank and filled it to the brim with 900 to 1200 gram Canadian crustaceans — you can choose which one goes on your plate, which, for Korea, is quite a novelty. There’s no doubt Lobster Bar is the place to go for fresh Atlantic lobster, and I can’t wait to go back.

The meat was succulent and came from the claw — the best part of the creature — and it was very well prepared. The generous serving was moist and tasty, with no bits of shell buried inside.

Getting there c Itaewon Station, exit 3. Walk toward the Cheil Building. Go up the wooden stairs on the right, just across from On the Border. Lobster Bar is on the left.

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FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Seoul Veggie Kitchen

It’s hotter than hell outside — let’s cool things off in here Story by Shelley DeWees / Photos by Ken Hawkins

C

ool, healthy, powerful, sexy. This is your body on smoothies. Not only are they the absolute pinnacle of refreshment when the pavement outside your window shimmers with heat and the trees sag with the weight of humidity sent from the devil, they’re also an awesome way to pump whole raw food into your system without having to gnaw on uncooked vegetables or yet another boring apple. If you’re working extra hard this summer to keep away the jiggle, they’re also the perfect thing to fill you up without making your shorts tight. Everyone wins!

Here are four smoothie recipes that are really crankin’ my wheels these days, ready to go for your ultimate enjoyment. You’ll find they’re all dairy free — because no one wants a big bubbly food baby — and not mega sweet. But, you can definitely embellish them for a “Blend a la You.” Add some extra nutrition with sunflower or flax seeds, top it off with a big handful of whole frozen berries for an ice cream-y effect or add three chocolate bars and a shot o’ bourbon. No matter what you decide to cram in there, the process for smoothie-making is simple: Dump everything in the blender, buzzzzzz, then eat. Yesss.

About the writer: Shelley DeWees worked as a vegan chef for a Buddhist monastery before moving to Seoul. She is a columnist and the food editor for Groove Korea. — Ed.

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Classic fruit The ol’ standby. To round this one out into a complete meal, stir in some unblended berries before you start slurping. And throw in a few nuts, too, while you’re at it.

Ingredients •1 banana •1 cup frozen strawberries •1 cup frozen blueberries •2 cups water (more or less) •Handful of ice cubes

Green This one packs an amazing health wallop — cups and cups and cups of spinach that were once on your counter will now be in your body, and it’ll taste like dessert. Trust me on this. Pack in all the ingredients then fill the water line about 2/3 of the way up.

Ingredients •2 bananas •1 apple •1 cup frozen pineapple •2 cups of ice •Spinach, as much as you can fit •2 - 2 1/2 cups water

Quirky Here’s a peppery banana-lime concoction to get your blood pumping.

Ingredients •1 banana •1 apple •Juice of 1 lime •1 tbsp honey, agave or maple syrup •1/2 jalapeño •2 cups water •Handful of ice cubes

Chocolate Oh baby, make it happen. Freezing the bananas ahead of time will make this smoothie utterly delectable and totally addictive.

Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Ingredients •2 frozen bananas •2 tbsp cocoa powder •2 tbsp chocolate chips or cacao nibs •1 tbsp peanut butter •2 cups non-dairy milk •Handful of ice cubes

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Gastropub revolution Prost ups the ante for pub culture with a high-end menu of delectable dishes Story by Shireen Tofig / Photos courtesy of Prost

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“A

dventure. That’s why.” Chef Gu Jin-kwang says, smirking, in response to my question about why he first moved to London nearly 15 years ago. He’s sitting in front of me wearing a traditional chef’s white double-breasted jacket and black dress pants, and a flash of mischief appears underneath his otherwise reserved demeanor.

I ask how he got started, expecting an inspirational story from his childhood, but he merely shrugs. It was just a part-time job in college and he grew to like it.

Up until a few years ago, Gu worked as a sous chef all across London, gaining experience with French cuisine for more than a decade. The highlight of his time there was when he worked as senior chef de partie at the highly acclaimed Le Gavroche, which is the only restaurant in the UK to receive three Michelin stars.

Working there with chefs Michel and Albert Roux was a main source of inspiration for him, he says. Their work, along with English pub culture and Gu’s own philosophy on French dishes is what he claims made him what he is today.

Since his return to Korea, Gu has been studying local ingredients and traditional cooking techniques to develop his own French-Asian style.

Now, he works at the popular Prost Pub & Grill located behind the Hamilton Hotel in Itaewon, part of the same complex as Glam Lounge and Club Mute. It’s a great restaurant for all occasions and the location makes it a prime spot for nightlife. The menu features pasta, burgers, Mexican brunch, eggs benedict, seafood and dessert (Gu is also a talented pastry chef), and a lengthy drink menu.

While Prost is known as a traditional pub, Gu’s expertise is turning it into more of a gastropub, serving high-end food and offering an extensive drink menu. He says that he’s very aware that many people come to Prost specifically for the drinks, so he takes extra care when pairing the dishes with certain beverages.

One of the dishes is a plate of mouth-watering, oven-roasted barbecue pork ribs made with a homemade sweet and sour sauce, and served with fried rice and crispy pork skin. It’s the same dish he made for Sam Kass, the senior policy advisor for nutrition policy and former personal chef of U.S. President Barack Obama, when Kass visited Seoul in July.

To challenge himself, he makes trips to the seaside or mountains every so often to sample the food made by the locals there.

More info j Prost Pub & Grill is located out of Itaewon Station, line 6, exit 1.

Find it on Facebook at fb.com/prostpubandgrill.

“Instead of trying to follow trends, I travel outside of Seoul and try the ingredients,” he says. “I want to see what’s special about this or that area and what kinds of food they provide. It could be meat, vegetables, seafood or other ingredients and I create a new menu out of it. That’s my challenge.”

He says that since the Prost menu is seasonal, he needs to know what flavors are currently being used around Korea.

Based on what he finds, he creates the first version of a dish.

Then he brings it to his chefs at Prost and together they decide what works best for the course they will ultimately serve in the restaurant.

His innovations show in his dishes. Head to Prost this summer and you’ll even find Salmon Gravlax, his personal favorite, which is a Nordic dish consisting of raw salmon cured in sugar, salt and dill on a bed of radicchio salad and balsamic dressing.

You’ll also find Singaporean fried noodles with chicken breast, prawns, bean sprouts, bacon and his very own spicy sauce. The portions are not very big, so your best bet would be to split a few dishes with friends to get all the different varieties of flavors and textures available.

Dishes made with this much care don’t come cheap, but you also get what you pay for. The food is of a quality that’s much higher than your average pub. And the menu is always changing, so the ingredients are sure to be fresh.

As for where Prost is headed, Gu says that he sees it becoming the pub to go to in Seoul. With its impressive menu of food and drinks, he’s sure to reach his goal in no time.

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F

or a medical practitioner, Dr. Song Jae-chul knows a lot about windows. His passion, he says, is providing nutritional assistance to those who fall within the “window period,” or the years when preventative medicine can make the biggest impact on a person’s quality of life. It is the people in this window that have inspired him to open his facility, Dr. Paul.

Based in Bundang in the outskirts of Seoul, the doctor specializes in rehabilitative medicine and noninvasive surgery — that is, restorative health, or the things we do every day to keep ourselves healthy and prevent disease.

Dr. Paul is a drug store named after Dr. Linus Pauling, an American scientist who won the Nobel Prize for chemistry in 1954. Pauling was a long-time advocate of vitamin supplements and their ability to improve overall health. For Dr. Song, the combination of supplements and sound medical advice are what’s missing in many people’s health regimens. “There is no dispute that healthy nutrition is the best way to stay healthy,” he explains, “but it’s often hard to balance nutrition with people’s busy social lives.”

Dr. Song’s professional career has not only put him in contact with people suffering from serious diseases, but also with those in peak physical condition. His background in preventive medicine helps him with his second occupation as the Korean national volleyball team physician. While some might think the hardest strain on the players is the physicality of their sport,

Dr. Song opens Korea’s first doctor-run supplement facility

Nutrition boon

in Bundang Story by Jaime Stief / Photos courtesy of Dukhwa

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Dr. Song disagrees: “When the teams travel long distances, like to Brazil, for example, we need to have them back in peak condition immediately — and adjusted to the water.” Just like Korea’s top players, we all need to stay on top of our energy levels, he says.

Dr. Song admits that in addition to the challenges of picking the appropriate product in an already crowded market, it can be even harder for a patient to know how to use each product effectively. What is unique about Dr. Paul’s service, however, is the mandatory consultation — in person, on the phone or through email — that is required before purchasing one of the Metaformula products his facility sells. He insists that patients turn to their doctors for advice on supplement use, and even accepts referrals from other physicians who want to recommend Metaformula products.

Dr. Song personally picked the Metaformula brand because of its high-quality ingredients and affordability. He says his foreign patients have the greatest interest in Metaformula’s probiotic supplements (64,000 won for a month’s worth) to improve digestion and immune functions, the Omega 3 supplements (59,000 won) to help manage cholesterol and the Energy Formula (44,000 won) to battle fatigue.

Dr. Song is especially impressed with the team behind Metaformula’s line of products, who are all doctors themselves. Using the Metaformula line as a starting point, the doctor hopes his first-floor facility will encourage patients to drop in, discuss their lifestyle and make healthy changes for the future.

More info j Address Gyeonggi-do, Seongnam-si, Bundang-gu, 89 Seohyun-dong 102 Seohyun Park Plaza Phone (031) 701-1023 Getting there From Gate 3 on second floor of AK Plaza at Seohyun station, walk down the street towards Seohyun-dong Office. Continue for three minutes until you come to Woori Bank on your left. Dr. Paul is directly beside the bank.

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COVER story Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

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An oasis out of the ashes Jeju shines as Korea’s forgotten success story Story by Ian Henderson / Photos by Douglas MacDonald

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COVER story Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

“Y

ou cannot drive down the mountain road. Ever,” warned Mr. Lee, the owner of a Jeju scooter shop, as he used a red marker to highlight the treacherous, serpentine highway cutting through the middle of the island. It seemed this rule might be in our best interest.

It created a quandary, however: Coming to Jeju and not hiking Hallasan is like coming to Korea and not trying kimchi. The experience just wouldn’t be complete without it.

So we postponed our plan to circumvent the island on two wheels and caught a bus to the mountain. It took several attempts over the course of a few days to successfully scale the summit, either because we started too late or hit inclement weather; but the third time was the charm — we finally reached the reflective waters of the caldera lake atop this 2-kilometer-high extinct volcano.

What we think of as Jeju is essentially the settled foothills of Hallasan, South Korea’s tallest peak. On its slopes of basalt and cooled lava, a people have eked out a living over several millennia, a people that are as distinct from mainland Korea as their subtropical climate. The island was originally known to Koreans as Tamna, and it wasn’t until 1105 that it was brought under the control of the mainland.

Amid its long-tumultuous relationship with dominant outside powers, Jeju has fostered a fiercely proud sense of local identity. In fact, the island culture is so distinct that its people developed an extreme dialect of Korean — some would argue it’s their own language. Called Jeju-eo, it diverged long ago from the common progenitor it shares with the mainland, and has a markedly separate syntax and lexicon. Once used by some 600,000 residents, only 5,000-10,000 speakers remain, most of whom are over 70 years old. UNESCO declared the language critically endangered in 2010, one of the society’s many hallmarks being lost to modernization.

This dialect, along with much else of what constitutes the essence of Jeju, is facing rapid erosion — its characteristic maritime religion, methods of subsistence, language and culture are on the brink of extinction. We sought to find the traces of this island culture before they slipped into history.

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COVER story Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

I. Mermaids on the Stony Shore

A few days later we set off eastward from Jeju City, at the center of the island’s northern coast, on one of Mr. Lee’s scooters. The main arterial 1132 highway, which runs around the perimeter, flows smoothly due to very few stoplights, no sharp turns and minimal traffic — just the free and open road. Heading clockwise, the endless coast envelops our left as thick foliage rolls upward on the right. Given that buses can be few and far between and many of the sites on the interior lack public transit options, traveling by scooter is undoubtedly the best way to explore Jeju.

Since the island is a mere 73 kilometers wide and 41 kilometers north to south, it didn’t take long to get to the northeastern end. This area boasts the main geological attractions that, coupled with Hallasan itself, have earned Jeju a coveted space among the New 7 Wonders of Nature. We swung off the main road toward the famed Manjanggul lava tubes. They were created by giant columns of lava burrowing their way out of the bowels of Hallasan in an eruption now in the distant past; the behemoth black tunnels are scoured out of the rock itself, and they’re the longest of their kind in the world. Along this side road is also the Gimnyeong Maze Park, a hedge maze fashioned after the almond shape of Jeju itself. Groups of people without wheels lined the sides of the road leading inland to these attractions, poor souls trudging along in pedestrian purgatory under the glaring sun.

Slightly farther down the coast are perhaps the most visible ambassadors of Jeju’s indigenous culture: the haenyeo, or diving women. In contrast to the mainland, Jeju society is founded on matriarchy, due largely to centuries of women controlling the income and family’s livelihood while the men were at sea. This iconoclasm of Confucian culture led Seoul policymakers to attempt to ban them from diving, but tradition reigned.

The haenyeo still dive to this day, plunging to depths of up to 20 meters to gather abalone, conch and other seafood by hand, without the aid of any equipment other than a mask. When they surface, the release of pressure from their lungs emits an audible whistle whistle. They are known in Korean folk culture as mermaids, and written records of them stretch back several hundred years.

In the Joseon period (1392–1910), Jeju was a place of exile. Cho Kwan-bin — a nobleman who was banished to Jeju in 1731 — described his fate as befitting

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“not an ordinary sinner, but one who just escapes the death sentence.” He also wrote that after witnessing the Herculean ordeals endured by the haenyeo to harvest abalone, he couldn’t in good conscience eat the dish ever again.

The haenyeo later made history when Jeju was under direct Japanese imperialist control (1910 through World War II). The island played its part in the Korean independence movement during this time, and the haenyeo led one of the most notable acts of resistance on the island: Spurred on by outrage over regulations from the Japanese Diver’s Association, they mobilized tens of thousands of people in protest against the colonial government before being subjugated in a brutal crackdown.

As recently as the 1960s, over 20 percent of the island’s income and over 60 percent of its fishing industry came from the divers. But due to modernization and changing lifestyles, only about 5,000 haenyeo remain working today, with the vast majority being over 60 years old. Like many tra- You haven’t seen ditional cultures globally, the tough until you’ve Korean mermaids are at real seen an 80-year-old risk of dying off (UNESCO grandma trudging has added them to its Intan- out of the rocky gible Cultural Heritage list). surf carrying a bag The Haenyeo Museum is a of shellfish half great place to learn more her weight that about the details of their she’d just collected saga. Nearby is also Seong- by hand off the san Ilchulbong, known as ocean floor.

Sunrise Peak, a small crater islet barely connected to the main island. Between the museum and this tuft cone is a small pebbly beach where a group of haenyeo dive and sell the maritime delicacies they forage from the depths to tourists watching from the shore.

You haven’t seen tough until you’ve seen an 80-yearold grandma trudging out of the rocky surf carrying a bag half her weight of shellfish she’s just hand-collected from the ocean floor. We drank and talked to the women in their wetsuits, cracked open shells and ate our fill. Out in the water, the shrill sirens of the surfacing haenyeo filled the air. The wind whipped as the waves crashed against the rocks, but they seemed as indomitable as the volcanic crag towering behind them.

Gujwa-eup

Jeju City Jocheon-eup Hallim-eup Hangyeongmyeon

Udo

Hallasan National Park

Seongsan-eup Pyoseon-myeon

Daejeong-eup Andeokmyeon

Seogwipo City

Namwon-eup

Gimnyeongsa Cave Gimnyeong Maze Park Manjang Cave Jeju Female Diver (Haenyeo) Museum

Udo

Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak

Seongsan-eup Mermaids on the stony shore (east)

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COVER story Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

II. Excitement, Economics, Empire

The next day, we continued our clockwise circumnavigation of the island, toward the southern city of Seogwipo.

According to tourist info, the picturesque landscape we passed en route was dotted with golf courses, as well as many filming locations for Korean movies. Considering my rock-bottom level of interest in both golf and K-drama, I felt as if the map was brazenly challenging me to give less of a shit. We came upon citrus farms where Jeju’s sweet, delicious, iconic satsuma oranges are grown, and stopped to buy a bag. Farming is Jeju’s other major industry alongside tourism, and like every aspect of old-world Jeju, it too is bracing for severe change.

Korea’s new free trade deal with China is expected to impact Jeju’s satsuma orange industry with losses of over 160 billion won a year. The overall effect on the nation’s other agricultural products may be even greater, due to the influx of low-cost imported potatoes, onions, garlic, cabbages and carrots. And while the government plans to dole out 30 billion won in subsidies to help local farmers develop their infrastructure, many fear it won’t be enough to stem the tide.

This dual-pronged economy of tourism and agriculture is the lifeblood of Seogwipo. In addition to several noteworthy sites like Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, another popular activity here is taking a submarine ride. While not quite as exhilarating as Captain Nemo’s Nautilus, we nonetheless cruised around submerged beneath the waves and saw a realm usually denied to most beachgoers. As we set off from the rocky harbor, sunlight streamed down from the surface, with schools of fish darting away from our metallic leviathan. We went deeper to find the shapes of shipwrecks slowly forming amid the murky water, old fishing boats and trawlers littering the sea floor.

Those with a more adventurous streak might want to consider climbing into a wetsuit to get up close and personal with sea life. Although Korea isn’t usually thought of as a diving destination, Jeju is still considered the republic’s mecca of scuba. Big Blue 33 is a dive shop operated out of Seogwipo by German national Ralf Deutsch, and it offers several courses for all skill levels.

“Diving in Korea is like an attractive mix of Norway and the Red Sea — black rocks and kelp like in Norway coupled with the soft coral and colorful tropical fish like in the Red Sea,” says Wolfgang Pölzer, an Austrian dive journalist and photographer.

But the unsullied maritime environment faces new, possibly fatal challenges, with Jeju Naval Base (also called Gangjeong Naval Base) scheduled for completion in 2015.

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Construction of the 1 trillion won facility has been halted over half a dozen times due to protests. Destruction of cultural property, loss of ancient artifacts and damage to the local way of life are among the arguments against it, but the strongest opposition comes out of concern for the environment.

Construction has cleared out large amounts of ancient lava formations that make up Jeju’s only estuary, and this area is home to numerous species of cranes and aquatic life, many of which are endangered. “Disaster” is a word often used to describe the environmental impact of the project: International human rights organizations have condemned the organizers’ use of hired thugs to harass and intimidate activists, which resulted in several foreign protesters being arrested and deported.

The Korean government and Jeju’s own courts and administration have all supported An old Jeju adage the project and struck down encapsulates the grassroots efforts to prevent fears of many of the its completion. Proponents islanders — that say the influx of money will they could end up stimulate the local econo- like the proverbial my — the base will serve as ‘shrimp whose back an occasional port for cruise gets broken in a fight ships — but the real motiva- between whales.’ tion seems to be the geopolitical significance of a military presence in the area: Nearby waters are home to shipping lanes through which all of Korea’s exports and most of its petroleum imports are transported.

Supporters have also used as justification the increased capacity of military response in case of a North Korean threat. The base is planned to house 20 warships, three destroyers, several submarines and possibly even aircraft carriers. However, some see the North Korean threat as a mere diversion, and instead propose that the base is really intended as a power play directed toward China.

Tensions are heightened because of the waters surrounding the nearby island Ieodo, which are thought to contain oil and mineral deposits. The situation is comparable to posturing between Japan and China, but author Donald Kirk, in “Okinawa and Jeju: Bases of Discontent” (2013), writes that in stark contrast to the Japanese, the port on Jeju will not be used to house any American military presence. An old Jeju adage encapsulates the fears of many of the islanders — that they could end up like the proverbial “shrimp whose back gets broken in a fight between whales.”

Gujwa-eup

Jeju City Jocheon-eup Hallim-eup

Hangyeongmyeon

Udo

Hallasan National Park

Seongsan-eup Pyoseon-myeon

Daejeong-eup Andeokmyeon

Seogwipo City

Namwon-eup

Seogwipo City Jungmun Tourism Complex

Cheonjiyeon Waterfall Big Blue 33 dive shop Seogwipo Submarine

Excitement, economics, empire (south)

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COVER story Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

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COVER story Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

III. Conquest of Paradise

As we rounded through the southwestern tip of the island, the flora became markedly thicker and jungle-like. Dense expanses of vegetation framed the side roads, while a deafening cacophony of cicadas served as an auditory temperature gauge. People moseyed on horseback in this lush, verdant area.

Ma Park is known not only for riding but also as a place for watching dramatic recreations of Mongol horse warriors. The performers are actually Mongolians who’ve been sitting atop horses since before they could walk, and have come to show off their skills to the masses. Part hybrid stunt-riding exhibition and part medieval battle reenactment, “The Black Flag of Genghis Khan” is divided into three thrilling acts, featuring horseback archery, swordfights and riding acrobatics.

The horses are certainly not the first of their breed in the area — the Mongolian horses on Jeju have roots firmly entrenched in antiquity.

Following the series of Mongol raids that culminated in 1270, Mongolia officially brought the peninsula — and its islands — on as an ally for the next 80 years. According to the Head of the Jeju Horse Culture Center, as quoted in The Jeju Weekly, the Mongols introduced 160 of their characteristic short, stocky mounts to the island in 1276. The conditions proved ideal, and through the interbreeding that ensued with local steeds, Jeju has been known as an equine haven ever since. Although numbers declined in the mid-1900s, modern efforts to preserve the horses have been helpful, and as a result their numbers are rebounding. They are called jejuma or gwahama, meaning “short enough to go under fruit trees.” In truth, it’s best to think of them as ponies; for average- to large-sized Westerners, climbing on the back of one is unlikely to be an option.

Before the Mongols arrived, the island had long been a breeding ground for four-legged beasts — horses, mules, sheep and even camels. The Mongol armies took advantage of these resources, and it was Jeju horsepower that was used to connect Korea’s network of military posts under Mongol rule.

These same rulers used Jeju’s rocky coasts

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to launch several invasions of Japan, but each attempt was thwarted when freak storms dashed their ships upon the rocks. These were called Kamikaze, or Divine Wind, by the grateful Japanese, who 500 years later went to Jeju with imperial ambitions of their own. The Japanese brought 70,000 soldiers to implement their plans, building a military facility at the base of Songaksan during the Second World War. During this time, the islanders were treated harshly and conscripted into building runways, tunnels and other infrastructure for the emperor’s forces.

Much of the island still bears the scars of this oppression; the island’s brutal subjugation can be seen along the walking trail Ollegil 11, which starts in the southwest harbor of Moseulpo. Along the way are 19 still-standing Japanese airplane hangars, most of which are being used by local farmers to house equipment. But the blood of Jeju’s islanders isn’t solely on the hands of foreign powers. Catholic activist Hwang Sa-yeong was executed in 1801 as part of the Joseon suppression of peregrine religious influence, and his memorial is erected along this path.

A century and a half later, at the outbreak of the Korean War, over 200 people from a nearby village were executed without trial on suspicion of being communist sympathizers.

In fact, the whole island saw a series of violent purges from 1948 to 1954. The most infamous was the Sasam (“4-3,” or April 3) massacre. From April 1948 and lasting just over a year, government troops executed over 30,000 people suspected of having leftist political leanings. It was around 10 percent of the entire island population at the time, and 30 percent of the speakers of the original Jeju-eo dialect, which left much of the language to die along with its speakers. The trail passes the Seotal Oreum memorial, which bears solemn witness to these tragedies.

The influx of tourists treading these paths has damaged some coastal areas on the southern side of the island, and some rare fir and pine trees are dying off, according to Douglas MacDonald of The Jeju Weekly.

Distinct vegetation and plant life are a corner-

stone of the Jeju identity, and one of the best places to see them is Hallim Park. One of the oldest tourist spots on the island, it boasts magnificent gardens, arboretums, bonsai forests, lava tunnels and caves. It’s located just northwest of Ma Park and the walking trail, lying off the main highway and across the road from Hyeopjae Beach.

Smaller islets break the waves farther out, leaving a calm lagoon of tropical turquoise waters lapping onto white sand beaches, peppered with clusters of black volcanic rock.

Jeju is often promoted as “the Hawaii of Korea,” and while most long-term expats will have undoubtedly developed a thick skin to such hyperbole, it is actually warranted for Hyeopjae. Smaller islets break the waves farther out, leaving a calm lagoon of tropical turquoise waters lapping onto white sand beaches, peppered with clusters of black volcanic rock. The area provided plenty of opportunities to indulge in one of my favorite beach pastimes: finding a tidal pool and wallowing like a hog.

Speaking of hogs, we passed several farms along this stretch of the west coast, identified by their porcine odor long before they came into eyeshot. They contribute to one of Jeju’s signature culinary dishes, black pork. Small, with a sleek black coat, these pigs were traditionally raised in pens built underneath latrines, living off of the human waste deposited therein. They were then slow-smoked over burning hay, which was meant to infuse the meat with a smoky goodness. The final product is supposed to be tastier and “chewier than its white northern counterparts,” according to one Konglish-laden tourism website. While the smoking method remains, the eating of turds has gone with the wind, apparently to the chagrin of some hard-line ajeossis (older Korean men) who claim it has adversely affected the taste. As part of a joint North– South Korean operation, black pig farming is expected to begin soon in Pyongyang.

Biyangdo Hyeopjae Beach

Hallim-eup Hallim Park

Gujwa-eup

Jeju City Jocheon-eup Hallim-eup

Ma Park

Hangyeongmyeon

Hangyeongmyeon

Udo

Hallasan National Park

Seongsan-eup Pyoseon-myeon

Daejeong-eup

Chagwido, Ieodo, Wado

Andeokmyeon

Seogwipo City

Namwon-eup

Conquest of paradise (west)

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IV. Maiden, Mother, Crone

After a couple of days lounging proper in the waters of Hyeopjae, we continued northeast back to Jeju City for the final stretch. Just south of the city is the granddaddy of all tourist traps in Jeju: LoveLand. This erotic art theme park opened in 2004 and is filled with hundreds of statues and displays of every size and type of genitalia or intercourse imaginable (except for homosexual, because Korea’s not quite there yet). As with other raunchy exhibitions in Korea, it’s fun watching older folks get down ’n’ dirty — all inhibitions seem to get tossed aside when there’s a giant cock in the room.

There are many sex theme parks on Jeju, and several historical reasons why it’s associated with amorous trappings. First, many marriages were prearranged back in the day, and Jeju’s professional matchmakers gave advice to help consummate the union between two awkward strangers. Also, under a series of military dictatorships that ran the country for decades, international travel was heavily regulated and difficult to come by, leaving Jeju to serve as an exotic honeymoon destination within national borders. As such, it has developed a sexy reputation over the past few decades.

The relics most closely linked to this history are the dol hareubang, or stone grandfather statues. These phallic figurines have traditionally been thought to represent virility and stamina, though some scholars have argued that they actually represent hallucinogenic mushrooms used in rituals originating in Siberian shaman culture. Shamanism is present all over the nation, but the variety practiced here is distinct from that on the mainland.

While the exact origins of Jeju’s folk shamans are unclear, scholars have pointed out their strong similarities with those on the mainland and in Okinawa, Siberia and Mongolia.

Dirk Schlottmann, a German professor in Cheongju who has studied shamanism throughout Asia for several decades, thinks the strongest similarities can be traced to Siberian roots: “Some of the main signifiers

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include crowns from the Silla kingdom which why Hallasan looms large over the whole isrepresent the cosmic tree, and also color pat- land: “Seolmundae watches over us all.” terns on pottery, both of which are near-exact As with other aspects of the island’s tradimatches.” In addition, Jungseum, wooden tions, these folk practices were outlawed by ducks mounted on tall poles outside villag- the Japanese because they were deemed to es, can be found throughout many shamanic contribute to nationalism. Under Park Chungcultures heading westward from Siberia into hee’s New Village economic program, many Europe. This correlates with how Korea is be- folk practices were “declared the enemy of lieved to be partly settled by people of Tungu- modernity,” say Anne Hilty and Sunyoung sic stock, as is the case with Siberia and parts Hong, writing in The Jeju Weekly. “Shamans of Manchuria. were required in formal proceedings to give There are also other notable differences be- their tools to the government and renounce tween the shamanism on the island and on their beliefs. Practices continued in secret, the mainland. Shamans usually have a multi- though, at the threat of legal sanctions.” faceted role in traditional folk culture — healer, historian, mediator and prognosticator — The creator deity and while these nurturers of domesticity have Seolmundae is the usually been women in Confucian society, on personification of Hallasan, the conversely matriarchal Jeju they’ve tend- deep within which she is said ed to be men. They’re not considered nat- to be slumbering, and the ural conduits to the gods, nor do they enter nearly 400 smaller volcanic trance-like states; rather, they act more like cones around the island priestly officiants. are said to be her offspring.

She can at various times Jeju is called the Island of 18,000 Gods be portrayed as the young for a reason: It’s home to over 400 working shrines where people can engage the spirits, virginal maiden, the lifeor placate them, for good fortune and bounty. giving mother, or the wise old crone.

Among the more famous ones in Jeju City is Chilmeori Shrine, which is dedicated to Yeongdeung, the goddess of the sea and The religion survived these historical aswind whose ritual is inscribed in the UNESCO saults, but recently the relevance of traditional Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list. shamanism has been diminishing. Instead of Certain regions have unique preferences holding their rituals on the beach or in sacroout of the pantheon; the haenyeo make sanct locations, they are more often turning offerings to Yowang and his wife Yowang to the stage. And while shamanism on the Buin, the dragon king and the queen of the peninsula welcomes foreign guests and mesea, respectively. dia, non-Koreans are largely shunned on Jeju.

The creator deity Seolmundae is the per- Schlottmann related a time he witnessed the sonification of Hallasan, deep within which sacrificing of a chicken during a seaside ritushe is said to be slumbering, and the nearly al: “When the bird failed to die properly, many 400 smaller volcanic cones around the island believed it was due to my presence, a forare said to be her offspring. She is portrayed eigner being in attendance.” Beyond UNESaround the island in near-universal archetypes CO, other efforts are being made to preserve found throughout the world’s ancient belief and safeguard this ancient way of life such as systems: She can at various times be the Giuseppe Rositano’s upcoming documentary, young virginal maiden, the life-giving mother, “At Search for Spirits on the Island of Rocks, or the wise old crone. There’s a saying for Wind and Women.”

Maiden, mother, crone (north) Jeju Port Passenger Terminal

Jeju International Airport

Mr. Lee’s Bike Shop

Chilmeori Shrine

Jeju City Jeju LoveLand

Gujwa-eup

Jeju City Jocheon-eup Hallim-eup

Udo

Hallasan National Park

Hangyeongmyeon

Seongsan-eup Pyoseon-myeon

Daejeong-eup Andeokmyeon

Seogwipo City

Namwon-eup

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COVER story Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

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Having completed our odyssey of this small maritime hideout, we returned our trusty steed to Mr. Lee’s bike shop, who seemed genuinely amazed that neither we nor the bike had tragically perished. On our last night, we headed to the densest concentration of watering holes in Shin (New) Jeju and hit up Jespi, a bar dedicated to serving Jeju’s very own line of malted beverages. Jeju has tried to elbow its way into the domestic beer market, with its own brand launched just last summer. Sharing the name with the company bar, Jespi (Jeju Spirit) has wisely avoided the usual domestic swill approach and offers stout, pale ale, pilsner and strong ale, each brewed with Jeju’s legendarily pristine water and locally grown barley.

Besides new initiatives in food and beverages, other attempts are underway to transform Jeju’s economy so it can flourish in the modern era. Jeju City recently built a 271acre, $381 million science park as part of six major projects designed to cement Jeju’s reputation as a hub for education, healthcare and research. So far, it seems to be working: The domestic internet staple Daum moved its main operations there in 2012, as had gaming giant Nexum, which relocated its corporate headquarters in 2011. While it’s unlikely that the big guns will abdicate Seoul anytime soon, it doesn’t mean Jeju can’t cut itself a bigger slice of the pie.

All of this should give hope regarding what the future holds for the island. Even after centuries of suffering and tremendous hardship, there remains a myriad of contemporary challenges facing these proud people. Their story has always read like a classic David versus Goliath tale of overwhelming odds, yet their religion, lifestyle and language have somehow managed to persevere. The island became an autonomous government in 2006 — 900 years after first being annexed — and perhaps this, coupled with modern economic strategies, could allow the fate of Jeju to be decided on its own terms.

More info j Mr. Lee’s Bike Shop There is a wide selection of scooters available and English-speaking staff. An international driver’s license is required to rent a scooter anywhere on Jeju.

Email jejubike@gmail.com Website jejubike.co.kr/eng Big Blue 33 diving service Owner Ralf Deutsch speaks English. Visit the site to find out more about diving trips, rental gear and certification courses.

Website bigblue33.co.kr Ma Park The park offers horseriding (12,000 won to 30,000 won) and go-karts (25,000 to 35,000 won). “The Black Flag of Genghis Khan” is staged three times daily (tickets 12,000 won to 18,000 won).

Hours 9 a.m. to 5:20 a.m. (March to Oct.), 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Nov. to Feb.) Website mapark.co.kr Manjanggul lava tubes Hours 9 a.m.-6 p.m. (summer) and 9-5:30 (winter).

Website english.jeju.go.kr

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Echoes of

J ej u

A father’s recollection of the island in the 1970s Story by Peter DeMarco / Photos by Tony DeMarco

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T

hirty-five years ago, my family moved from the U.S. to Jeju Island. We lived there for just over a year — I was 6 then — and while we were there, my father took a bunch of photographs.

But they got buried away in a pile of boxes, stored along with all the other stuff families collect.

I remember seeing the Jeju photos as a child when we came back from Korea.

Whenever friends would come over, my dad would pull open the big white viewing screen, turn on the slide machine — I can still hear the whizzing of the fan cooling down the bright viewing light — and then dim the lights.

The carousel made a clicking sound as the slides dropped in and out: a Korean grandfather in traditional clothing, Hallasan, the ubiquitous haenyeo divers. Between the exotic images and my own experience living in Korea as a child, I was convinced that I needed to travel around the world as much as possible — and someday go back to Jeju.

Time moved on and with it went the photos and slideshows. Ever since I came back to Korea in 2007, my father and I have talked about digging up those old photographs and converting them to digital files. Whether it was for educational purposes or purely for entertainment value, we both felt a need to share them.

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Locals in front of choga-jip or Jeju stone house

Housing development plans

Boxes of fish

Street festival in Jeju City

Now that we’ve digitized the photos, I wanted to find out the stories behind them. I wanted to know why my father made the choices he made, so I asked him a few questions about that part of our lives. Here’s what he had to say.

Peter DeMarco: What brought you to Jeju in 1979?

Tony DeMarco: An independent study course for my masters in international studies at Central Connecticut State University. My adviser, Dr. K.L. Koh, knew I’d been a Korean linguist in the army and had spent a year in Pyeongtaek. He asked me to go to his home island of Jeju to begin an exchange relationship teaching English at Jeju National University.

In addition, I wanted to do an article for National Geographic and continue a Korean art business I’d started with four of my buddies.

What was your first impression when you arrived in Jeju? You went over first and then we came a couple months later.

I was scared and really alone. I felt like I was on a different planet. No one spoke English. Your mom was pregnant with your little brother; I felt really guilty about leaving her and you. My first night there was stormy, cold and dark, and my first meal in Jeju City was something I’ll never forget: I ordered from a picture menu, lobster and octopus, and when they came to my table, both were moving.

What did you know about Korea before you went?

I’d spent a year as a Korean linguist for the U.S. Army Security Agency in Pyeongtaek at Camp Humphreys. Your mom came a few weeks after I got there in 1972, and because Korea was so primitive then, depen-

More info j To see more of Tony’s photos, visit TheNomadWithin.com.

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dents were not allowed for enlisted men. So we lived off base in Korean-style housing with yeontan (coal briquette heating) and an outhouse. It was really hard, but we learned a lot about how Koreans lived back then.

What was it like teaching English at Jeju National University?

I was really shocked at what I found. The “language lab” was a bunch of broken-down tape machines. Nothing worked. All my students looked at me as if they’d never heard English. Park Chung-hee was a full dictator by then, and there was a big pro-democracy movement led by academics and students.

The Jeju kids, although backward then, were catching on to things, too. Then the massacre in Daegu happened and things got really serious, and Park got assassinated. Really turbulent times.

Horse pulling cart full of coal briquettes

Honeymooners

Tony DeMarco with village elder and kids

What was it like raising a family there?

An almost impossible challenge. The first apartment JNU put us in had holes in the walls behind the cabinets. Rats would come in. But after a few weeks, we got a much better apartment from JNU, and we were the only Western family there. Mom got sick just after she came with you, from exhaustion, probably, and almost died when she got antibiotics she was allergic to. Your baby brother also got sick with really bad eczema, and the only Western medical help we could get was with the nuns at Hallim.

You went back to Jeju a few years ago.

How has it changed?

I didn’t recognize it. I was stunned at the development, new architecture, new roads — a complete transformation. It had changed from a primitive backwater place to avoid, to a modern and beautiful resort destination.

Photo shoot at Hyopjae Beach

How did you get into photography? Why did you shoot mostly slides?

I always enjoyed taking pictures. During my army tour in ‘72-’73, we had a darkroom and lots of my buddies were into taking shots of Korea; it was a strange and beautiful place.

We got into developing our own film, black and white, color … so we had a great little informal photo club. And for my National Geographic article, slides were the highest-quality image you could get.

Was there anything in particular you were trying to capture with your camera?

I knew Jeju was going to change forever. Dr. Koh told me about the billions of won that the government was going to pour into the island for development. Being “modern” was more important to them than preserving the unique culture of Jeju, and I knew a lot would be lost forever; I wanted to preserve a small slice with my shots.

What did your friends and family say when you said you were moving to Jeju?

They thought I was crazy. It devastated your mom that I would leave her with a little 5-yearold while expecting another baby. It caused a lot of pain for all of us, but I felt I had no other options. It seemed like a path was laid out for me to go back to Korea for lots of reasons, and I couldn’t get a job in the U.S. I’ll never forget the look in your eyes when I left you.

How did the locals treat you?

Some treated us really well and were sorry for the tough time we were having. Our friend Kyeong-hee was a godsend; she helped your mom so much with all the challenges. We made some Korean friends, but others looked at us like we were from Mars. There was only one other American on the island then, and only one other foreign family with kids. It’s crazy, but I think I’d do it again.

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The accidental comedian

Laughter Story by Gabi Eliasoph / Photos by Jessica Lia

without

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“I

like the pressure. It adds an edge to what you’re doing. The pressure, those little nerves, you need those nerves or you shouldn’t be doing it,” admits Enda Whitney.

As I sit down with the Irish comedian at a coffee shop on a humid summer day, I can already tell this is going to be fun. The enthusiasm literally drips off him as he sings each word. “You don’t turn into a different person on stage; you turn into a different energy source,” he explains. “If people feel your energy, it’s better than any drug you can possibly take. If I’m buzzing after a show, I’ve really achieved something.”

Whitney came to Korea fresh off the famed Irish stand-up comedy circuit, where he was well known to organizers as an audience favorite. After touring around Ireland and commanding some of its biggest stages, here he is now, years later in Seoul, still making us laugh.

“When I got to Korea, I fell in love with (comedy) all over again,” says Whitney, the youngest of six from a small town in the Midlands of Ireland.

As a result of his crowded upbringing, he never takes anything too seriously with his friends and family, explaining that when hard times happen, you have to put a positive spin on them and make people laugh. This, he says, is the Irish way. But in spite of any sort of shared cultural affinities for good humor and high spirits, Whitney remains modest about his beginnings in standup: “I always liked comedy, but never really had any aspiration to go into it.”

He describes his 2009 entrance into performing in the same way that some guys might recall getting their first tattoo: He accidentally stumbled into it when he lost a bet with some friends. After losing said fateful bet (he declines to elaborate on the circumstances), Whitney’s punishment was to skydive out ‘You don’t turn of a plane during the day before performing a into a different seven-minute open mic set later that evening. person on stage; Of the experience, he says, “The sky diving you turn into a was the less scary part of the day.” That may different energy be true, but both plunges appeared to be suc- source. If people cessful; not long after that, he was booked to feel your energy, do gigs all over Ireland. it’s better than What’s interesting about the comedy scene any drug you can in Seoul is that the audience can feature any possibly take.’ random assortment of people from all over the Enda Whitney globe. Bearing this in mind, you need to figure out who’s in your audience and what it is they want to hear. “The greatest satisfaction is when you can relate to people from all around the world,” says Whitney. “Living in Seoul has given me the ability and opportunity to draw on situations and stories from my life and make people from anywhere laugh.”

Not very long ago, Seoul barely had a comedy scene to speak of; now, there’s a thriving one. The Spotlight Comedy Club run by BH Productions was the first to regularly bring professional comics to the city and give locals and expats a chance to perform. Whitney is working on creating a bigger and bolder comedy scene in Korea. To get the ball rolling, he founded the Ag Gaire Comedy Club at the Harp Bar in Bundang’s Jeongja district. Ag Gaire, which means laughter in the Irishman’s native tongue, runs every second Friday.

More info j Whitney will be performing at multiple comedy venues all around Korea in the next few months. Check out his Facebook page for more information.

Website fb.com/enda.whitney

‘The greatest satisfaction is when you can relate to people from all around the world. Living in Seoul has given me the ability and opportunity to draw on situations and stories from my life and make people from anywhere laugh.’

Enda Whitney

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Ozzy Osbourne

Citybreak Brings Th e B i g N a m es Two days of well-known headliners, past legends and some newcomers Story by Chance Dorland / Photos courtesy of Hyundai Card Citybreak

H

yundai Card’s Citybreak Festival is brimming with potential. Between the impressive lineup and the fact that you can most likely bring your own food and beverages, this concert should offer a good return on your investment. One-day passes start at 115,000 won using Hyundai card discounts (165,000 won without) and a two-day “super plus package” hits 240,000 won (300,000 won without discounts), so this concert can in no way be considered “cheap.” But luckily for those who decide to buy in, there’s a hell of a lot to see.

Veteran heavy metal god Ozzy Osbourne headlines this year’s festival and performs on Saturday night. This looks to be a solid choice to

Maroon 5

Richie Sambora

Hoobastank

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Lupe Fiasco

The Neighbourhood

follow up Metallica, last year’s main heavy metal/rock attraction.

Osbourne, the lead vocalist of Black Sabbath, is no longer the spry young man he used to be, but given that this is Ozzy F***ing Osbourne we’re talking about (the actual name he signed on his consent form before appearing on “The Howard Stern Show” while I worked there in 2010), his presence alone should infuse energy into the first day of the event, if not both days.

While more recently known for his solo career and various TV appearances, last year Osbourne and Black Sabbath released “13,” their 19th studio album. Despite being the band’s first record in 35 years, “13” did well internationally and earned the group a Grammy Award for Best Hard Rock/Metal Performance.

Sunday promises to be a lighter affair, with Grammy Award-winning American pop group Maroon 5 performing just shy of their fifth full-length studio album release — September’s “V.” Do not underestimate how many people in Korea are looking forward to this performance. Take a stroll through Hongdae on any given Friday or Saturday night and you’ll eventually hear someone singing the band’s powerhouse hit “Sunday Morning” with a pile of 1,000 won bills crumpled in front of them.

Outside of the headliners, the solid list of B-level acts — New Found Glory, Hoobastank, Psy, Richie Sambora and The Deftones

locofrank

Pentatonix

— should also bring out the crowds. Much like last year’s lineup of notable artists of the past and present (Muse, Metallica, Iggy and the Stooges, Limp Bizkit and the Used, to name a few), a wide range of musical tastes are represented, meaning there will be diversity on stage, and if all else fails, the people-watching should get interesting. If this year’s crowds match the 75,000 people in attendance in 2013, I should be able to find one other person whose inner teenager is stoked for New Found Glory. Regardless, the convergence of international acts with a long history of making music is sure to please.

More info j When Aug. 9-10 Where Seoul World Cup Stadium Price 165,000 won (one-day), 300,000 won (two-day); 20 percent discount with Hyundai card Website citybreak.superseries.kr

Deftones

For more information on tickets and availability, visit ticket.interpark.com/global

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland hits Hyundai Card CityBreak. Check out his interviews at groovekorea.com.

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New Generation of Ska Festival Entrance is free, but dancing is compulsory Story by Dave Hazzan / Photos by Jon Dunbar

S

hine your two-tone shoes, don that pork pie hat and get your skanking ass out to Sinchon for the New Generation of Ska Festival 2014.

On Aug. 30, from 2 to around 11 p.m., 12 great ska acts will be performing at a free outdoor festival near Yonsei University.

What is ska? It’s a type of popular music, originally from Jamaica, which first appeared in the early 1950s. The original ska bands represented a fusion of Caribbean Mento and Calypso with American jazz and R&B, and ska was the precursor to rocksteady and reggae.

Since then, it has been through many incarnations: In the 1960s, it became popular with British mods; in the 1970s and 1980s, it became closely associated with punk music and was also adopted into skinhead culture.

The Specials, Madness, The Beat and Toots & the Maytals are some of the most famous ska groups, but like its own history of blurring lines between genres, bands like Rancid, Sublime, No Doubt and The Mighty, Mighty Bosstones are all known (or at least were at one point known) for being heavily ska-influenced.

In the 2006 Hongdae music scene, some local players held a concert called Ska vs. Punks, a celebration for fans of both genres.

“But it was just a local show, like any other club show in Hongdae,” says Kim Ji-won, 29, a festival organizer. Fortunately for hard-core aficionados, the initial event was able to generate enough interest to turn it into a concert series, which has continued every year since, sometimes twice a year.

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“Last year, it was the first time to bring bands from Japan,” Kim says. “It was the foundation for making an international ska show.

It was quite successful. Last year, we thought, now we can make an international festival.”

Twelve bands will be performing at this year’s festival, including California group The Bruce Lee Band, as well as two bands from Japan, Rollings and The Autocratics. Locally, Burning Hepburn will be representing Daejeon and Ska Wakers will be coming up from Busan. Rock festival regulars No. 1 Korean and old-timers Lazybone will also be performing, with Pegurians playing their unique early reggae, first-wave sound. The great Skasucks, ReSka and Rudy Guns have also been added to the bill.

As a particular treat for old-timers in Korea, the show is bringing the mem‘Last year, it bers of Beach Valley back together to was the first add their solid reggae vibe to the event. time to bring Having not played together in over a debands from cade, the group is reuniting just for this Japan. It was show.

“Eleven years ago they were a really the foundation for making an popular and beloved ska band in Seoul,” international Kim says. “We hope it’s not the last ska show.’ chance to see them.”

The goal of the festival is to raise Kim Ji-won awareness of ska music, and hopefully establish something of a proper ska scene in Seoul and the rest of Korea.

Kim says that in the future, they hope “to make a bigger festival, which people can easily approach to enjoy ska music. One day we hope to have a big ska scene and everyone knows what ska music is.” A bigger scene would hopefully help organizers bring some bigger ska and ska-influenced bands to Korea, groups like The Specials, Madness and Rancid.

In the meantime, Kim hopes to see a big turnout at the free festival. “This is the opportunity for people to learn about ska music,” she says.

More info j Website ngoskafest.com Facebook fb.com/tngoska Twitter twitter.com/tngoska 75

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rock n roll seoul

T

he gayageum’s silken strings have a discernibly Eastern twang to them, even when they’re embracing modern music. The gayageum is Korea’s best-known traditional instrument, dating back to the sixth century. Each instrument is usually 140 to 160 cm in length and, luckily for musicians, is played in a horizontal position.

Though it might be tempting to compare the gayageum to the European zither, the instrument has a unique sound and history, which recently received a major signal boost thanks to an innovative young musician named Luna Lee. Her tributes to modern pop and rock songs played on this historic instrument have captivated Web audiences around the world, amassing an increasing

number of views on her YouTube channel.

Lee has been playing the gayageum since she was 11 years old, and has developed some brilliant adaptations of songs from popular artists. The original gayageum was 12-stringed, but the modern versions are often designed to hold 20 to 25 pliable strings. When Lee plays, she uses her right hand to pluck or strum while her left raises the pitch and creates distortion and vibrato.

Her recent album, “Luna by Luna,” consists of both cover songs and originals. It features renditions of tracks by Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd, Air and Ryuichi Sakamoto.

Lee carefully selected the album’s featured songs to showcase the gayageum’s distinctive sound.

Column by Sophie Boladeras / Photos by Dylan Goldby

Groove Korea: You play gayageum renditions of a number of Jimi Hendrix songs.

What draws you to his music?

Luna Lee: I started getting interested in blues music because of its similarities to Korean traditional gayageum music in the use of scale. I was attracted to Jimi’s music because I thought his approach to blues was unique and fresh.

What inspired you to play the gayageum?

I have always loved touching rough surfaces. I love feeling different textures, and when I was young I always fell asleep while touching the edges of my pillow. The strings of the gayageum are twined with very fine silk threads, so the texture is different from the smooth nylon or metal of guitar strings. I think I started practicing the gayageum because I loved to feel the texture of the strings.

Did you start out playing another instrument?

Yes, I started out with the piano when I was 9. I still find the piano very useful when I write songs.

What do you find to be the most enjoyable aspect of playing the gayageum?

I like the fact that I use my fingers directly to pluck the strings made of fine silk threads; I feel even closer to my instrument that way. I think the freedom of expressing the dynamics with your left hand on this instrument is very unique.

How often do you practice?

I tend to not practice much, really. I usually practice when I feel like playing the instrument, and I practice for a long time once I start playing.

When and why did you decide to veer away from playing traditional music?

I have enjoyed playing different genres like New Age and K-pop on the gayageum since I was young. Then about six years ago, I started getting into rock music and thought it would go well on my instrument, too.

What is your favorite song to play at the moment?

I enjoyed practicing the song “Hotel California” by the Eagles recently, and I was happy that the guitar solo part went really well on the gayageum.

What bands or musicians have you been listening to lately?

Recently, the new Michael Jackson and Coldplay albums have been released, and I’m enjoying both of them quite a lot.

Who influences your current music?

Out of the many great blues and rock musicians, I’d pick Jimi Hendrix for inspiration.

I also like R&B music and I have listened to Maxwell’s music a lot, so I’d say my music has also been inspired by him.

You have become very popular on YouTube. What do you think attracts so many people to your music?

I think the fans are attracted to the contrast of Western music and an Eastern instrument.

Even though my instrument is an Asian instrument with a long history, the music of today and music from both the East and West sound great on it. I think that’s what attracts them: the harmony of you and me — us.

What is the creative process behind the tracks on your album?

I composed the originals and also arranged the covers. The recording, mixing and producing were done in Los Angeles, where my recording company is located. The album was produced by The Rolling Stones’ current producer Krish Sharma.

You majored in gayageum performance and you have ensured that gayageum music has been heard by thousands of people. Do you ever worry that traditional Korean instruments won’t continue to attract young listeners?

I don’t worry about that too much, really, because government policies for teaching students in Korea about traditional Korean instruments and music are being implemented.

Besides, there are many other traditional musicians that are going in new directions, such as crossover and playing modern music with their traditional instruments, so I think all of this will help younger generations continue to be interested in those instruments.

Do you get nervous before performing?

I tend to get nervous when the sound system at the venue is not good enough or when my gayageum is not in a good state. There aren’t any other special things I do before a gig, but I always focus on tuning my instrument because it tends to go out of tune when I bend the strings too much.

Where and when was your favorite concert?

I toured California last February and I had concerts in Long Beach and at the Pacific Asian Museum in Pasadena — both were unforgettable. I was glad that the audiences were interested in my performances.

What are your hopes for the future?

I hope it becomes easier for musicians to live well and to be themselves. I have met a lot of musicians in different fields whose passion for music is inspiring and great. But I feel bad when I see those musicians, once so full of passion, go through challenges in their musical careers or even give up on it due to economic and social instability.

What challenges have you faced as a gayageum player?

Since I play pop and rock music, I have had to study other string instruments like the guitar. It is not easy for the gayageum to express some musical ideas that electric guitars can do by using distortion pedals, so I have started working on modifying my gayageum to make it easier to use varied, guitar-like effects. At the moment, this is the most difficult part of being a gayageum player.

Do you have a day job or are you a fulltime musician?

I’m currently a primary school teacher. At Korean schools, there are teachers who specialize in teaching Korean traditional music, and I’m one of them. I finally get to be a fulltime musician on school holidays.

Is there anything else you would like to tell your readers?

This year, I’m planning to release my second album. I’m also planning to hold concerts in the U.S. this fall and in Europe this winter.

Information will be updated on my Facebook page. Please check it out!

More info j Website youtube.com/luna422422 Facebook fb.com/lunagayageum 77

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Interview with KALA, musician Column by Wilfred Lee / Photos by Luc Bennocci, Hospital Photography

S

ince arriving in Korea, Kholo Matsafu has stepped up to every opportunity that has crossed her path. The MC-turned-musician has worked hard to fine-tune her “musical vocabulary,” collaborating with other talented artists and participating in various music festivals under the name KALA. Unafraid of skipping across genres and media, the singer is ready to share her serene aura and deep, sultry voice with her fans in Korea and abroad.

Artist’s Journey’s Wilfred Lee sat down with KALA and discussed the connection between music and fractals, and how living in Korea can serve as a necessary struggle to help one find oneself.

78 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

‘Inspiration comes from whatever is relevant to me at the time. It’s important to be honest regardless of whether it seems trite or verbose when you write.

The trick is to record everything you can, because later you can sift through it all and find rare gems.’

KALA

Groove Korea: What’s your definition of music?

KALA: Because I think in pictures, the imagery that the word “music” invokes in my mind is an infinite, multicolored fractal loop (a repeating, mathematical pattern visible both close up and far away). Fractals, like music, are “beautiful, damn hard and increasingly useful,” in the words of Mandelbrot.

The quality of “self-similarity” is expressed through the different genres, which on the surface are entirely different, but the deeper we zoom in, the more we can see that the key elements that make good music are the same: earnest dedication, love, fun and the desire to change something.

There’s a math to music that is intangible.

It’s in the ether; it encompasses everything.

The joy is in discovering — to keep discovering.

What is the songwriting process like for you?

It gets harder the more I know because once I’ve set a standard for myself, I always want to do better. At times, the song just writes itself. It can be cathartic, when there is so much of me going into it that I’m almost afraid to let that part of me float about somewhere and plant itself in other people ... or be lost. At best, it’s pure, undiluted magic.

How do you hone your inspirations into a song?

Inspiration comes from whatever is relevant to me at the time. It’s important to be honest regardless of whether it seems trite or verbose when you write. The trick is to record everything you can, because later you can sift through it all and find rare gems.

What is the meaning behind the name you’ve been performing under?

KALA was inspired by the title of M.I.A.’s second album. In Hinduism, it is a Sanskrit term for time. According to this mythology, Kala is “time personified,” destroying all things and sometimes identified as a god or goddess of death. The real definition is a little emo, so I decided to remix it a bit and own KALA because I acknowledge that death or destruction are the forebearers of creation. I wanted to un-create and create at will, to be and un-be whatever I want to be.

I’m not affiliated with any particular religion and my intention is not to appropriate anything disrespectfully; I guess at some

point I may be confronted about this. But in all honesty, the name just felt right for me.

When did you start performing in Korea?

I started emceeing with DJ-producer J-Path in 2010. We formed a collective, Low End Theory, which included three DJs (J-path, Heuristics and Helix) and two MCs (MC Lucid and myself). We held events in clubs around Hongdae and Itaewon and were featured in some of the major electronic music festivals in Korea such as the World DJ Festival, Jisan Valley Rock Festival, Pentaport Festival and Ultra Music Festival. Together with J-path, I performed alongside drum-and-bass industry greats such as Goldie, Andy C, Roni Size, High Contrast and Fabio, as well as a bunch of DJs from Hospital Records.

I was a member of a DNB collective called Troublemakerz simultaneously, with DJ Fenner, DJ Yann Cavaille and MC Jake Pains. We did some festivals and university gigs and performed at the Boryeong Mud Festival.

I’ve been exploring other avenues as a vocalist. I’ve featured on tracks with House Rulez, Rudepaper, Jake Pains, Pinnacle TheHustler, Elliot Ashby and producers J-Path, Scotty Soul and Blackthought. I occasionally session with a jazz ensemble called the Cavalier and I’m the lead vocalist in a deep house/jazz fusion band called M!LK. I try to stay busy and expand my “musical vocabulary,” so to speak. I guess I’m in the process of evolving into more of an all-round vocalist.

How has Korea inspired your personal journey in artistry?

I’ve managed to take the time to get to know myself here. My intentions for coming have shifted and it’s a continuous struggle working the 9 to 5 and having to manipulate time to do what I really love. I’ve gained insight into my working habits and creative persona; I’ve been afforded opportunities to work with incredible people, inverted all existing ideas of self and excavated talents I wasn’t even sure I had. I can’t say that I’ve had many literal influences from Korea on my craft, but on a metaphysical level this place has been both my oasis and my island.

More info j Website soundcloud.com/kala_seoul, ideosyncratica.com

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MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

AT THE BOX OFFICE THE BIG SCREEN Preview by Dean Crawford

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles

Directed by Jonathan Liebesman August 28

Action / Adventure / Comedy U.S.

Whether it’s right here in this column or in 1991’s “The Secret of the Ooze”? Not a peep. the GrooveCast with Chance Dorland, you may (Any fallout after the Vanilla Ice cameo probably have heard me air my grievances about the went undocumented due to lack of Internet, if “Transformers” movies. But as much as I enjoy we’re being realistic, but that’s not the point.) calling out Michael Bay and the Autobots, I feel Regardless of the circumstances, why bother I should point out that this isn’t done out of spite complaining now over something so trivial as a or some kind of deep-rooted anger at Bay for facial feature?

“Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles” sees New York ruining the best cartoon from my childhood. No. It really comes down to the fact that the “Trans- gripped with fear as the evil Shredder (William formers” movies are bad films: Their character- Fichtner) wreaks havoc on the city. The only ization is nonexistent, and for all the explosions ones who are brave enough to stop him are four unlikely heroes, the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turthey contain, they still manage to be boring.

So imagine my surprise when the Internet got tles, who work alongside April O’Neal (Megan up in arms about the upcoming reboot of the Fox) and her cameraman Vernon Fenwick (Will “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles” series — not be- Arnett) to protect the city from Shredder and cause the turtles are now fully CGI or because his minions.

My suggestion is that the Internet take a they are changing the heroes’ backstory, but because the turtles now have lips. Now, I could break and relax over this film. They need to unhave understood some considerable anger at derstand that it’s a summer blockbuster meant the reinvention of comic book mythology, but to cater to kids and they shouldn’t get worked losing it over a pair of lips? If TMNT fans were up over something so benign. And, yes, I am looking for something blasphemous to com- aware that I should listen to my own advice with plain about online, how did Leonardo, Donatello, regards to the “Transformers” movies, but I’d Raphael and Michelangelo manage to go un- take a pair of mutant lips over the jive-talking scathed after that dance-off with Vanilla Ice in Skids and Mudflap any day!

You’re Next

Directed by Adam Wingard August 7

It’s not uncommon for the release date of a movie to change. Take “Fast 7,” for example.

The untimely passing of Paul Walker meant the mammoth franchise had to vacate its prime summer spot, as the film has been pushed back to next year. In its place comes Matt Reeves’ “Dawn of the Planet of the Apes,” moving up four months from November. Luc Besson’s “Lucy,” starring Scarlett Johansson, was supposed to come out in July, but has been pushed to September. In this instance, a delay could suggest a lack of quality in the finished film, but two months doesn’t really raise any red flags.

But when we look at a movie like “Jupiter Ascending,” which was originally scheduled for July but has been pushed back to February 2015, alarm bells definitely start to ring. The official reason for the delay is unfinished visual effects, but a better guess would be that Warner Bros. has no confidence in the movie and has banished it to the doldrums of February — the phantom zone where studios send their movies to die.

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland and columnist Dean Crawford talk movies.

Check out the podcast at groovekorea.com. www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

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Comedy / Horror / Thriller U.S.

To say these schedule changes have wreaked havoc with my previews would be an understatement, but these last-minute changes mean I get the chance to promote an independent horror movie that may otherwise have flown under the radar. That movie is “You’re Next” (2011), a modern slasher film directed by Adam Wingard and starring the lovely Sharni Vinson.

Erin (Vinson) is attending her boyfriend’s parents’ anniversary celebration at their holiday home in the woods of Missouri. As the celebration gets underway, a group of masked killers start picking off the guests one by one. But little do they know, Erin has a particular set of skills that allows her to fight back and potentially ruin the plans of the crazed killers.

“You’re Next” doesn’t claim to reinvent the wheel, but it is an interesting, refreshing take on the subgenre and boasts a strong female lead. Horror fans will definitely enjoy “You’re Next,” which is out in August. Or September.

Or maybe next year. Who can tell when movies are coming out these days?

KOREaN DVD CORNER THE SMALL SCREEN Review by Dean Crawford

Action / Drama 137 minutes

Directed by Won Shin-yeon PG-13

When “The Suspect” (2013) opens, we learn of a recent power handover in North Korea where any agents not fully trusted by the new regime are cast aside. Dong-cheol (Gong Yoo) is one such unlucky candidate — attacked and left to die while his family is killed. But the regime underestimates Dong-cheol’s abilities, and he manages to survive and make his way to the South. Once there, he finds a day job working as a chauffeur for Chairman Park, a high-ranking official with links to North Korea.

At night, however, Dong-cheol spends his time hunting down the man responsible for murdering his family.

After the chairman is killed by Northern spies over nothing more than a pair of glasses, Dong-cheol is forced to flee when the National Intelligence Service frames him for the crime.

He is all alone, except for documentarian Choi Gyeong-hee (Yoo Da-in), who is the only person who believes he is innocent. The NIS brings in the tenacious Min Sae-hoon (Park Heesoon), an agent with whom Dong-cheol shares a complicated past, to lead the case.

Whereas “The Berlin File” (2012) mixed frenetic action with interesting character development, particularly in the complicated love story between its two main characters, “The Suspect” sticks with straight action and maintains a fast pace for the entire film — a welcome change.

While the editing and effects in the movie’s climactic scenes aren’t groundbreaking, they’re good enough to keep you more than entertained.

The movie reminds me of one thing I’ve noticed about the South’s portrayal of North Koreans: They all appear to be superhuman badassses. Forget being scrawny and malnourished; these guys all know several martial arts and can handle a multitude of weapons. If these depictions are in any way based on reality, I feel for the country should the North actually decide to attack!

With an interesting twist on the revenge movie and a strong performance from lead actor Gong Yoo, “The Suspect” is a welcome addition from director Won Shin-yeon.

Action / Thriller 119 minutes

Directed by Jeong Byeong-gil R

This 2012 thriller’s frenzied opening scene sees cop Choi Hyeong-gu (Jeong Jae-yeong) chasing an assailant over the rooftops of Seoul.

Choi has a murky past with this man, so the fact that his target manages to escape causes our lead character a great deal of pain. But any pity we feel for him vanishes when another man takes his own life by jumping off a roof — only to be hit by a passing bus.

After such a crazy opening, “Confession of Murder” jumps forward two years and shows Choi reduced to a common drunk with a temper, shattered by losing the serial killer who murdered his fiancée. But then, out of nowhere, a man named Lee decides to finally confess to the murders, at this point committed 17 years prior, as the statute of limitations has finally expired. Lee says he wants to atone for his crimes, so he releases a book describing the murders in great detail, which makes him something of a celebrity.

Choi, however, has his suspicions. Why would Lee confess after all this time? The situation is

muddled even further when another man simply known as “J” (Jeong Hae-gyun) also confesses to the murders. But with Lee’s book detailing the crimes in such a way that it’s impossible to not take him seriously, Choi must find out which of these psychos is telling the truth: the pretty-boy celebrity or the mysterious “J.” As is typical of a lot of Korean movies, the first hour of this drama is at times unintentionally comedic. For example, there’s a car chase that feels more in line with the Keystone Cops than a Korean revenge film. Things don’t get down to the nitty-gritty until the second hour, as the secrets begin to unravel and we try to work out the truth behind the mystery. Then, as you may well have guessed, the film ends with a lot of screaming, a lot of crying and a decent amount of blood.

“Confession of Murder” is the debut feature film from director Jeong Byeong-gil and, despite the unintentional comedy, is a strong effort that is worth your time.

The Suspect 용의자

Confession of Murder 내가 살인범이다

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COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

expat enclaves

Easy living in Ilsan Story by Dave Hazzan / Photos by Ida Marie Skeie

Ilsan, 1993: “There was nothing,” says Mark Gomez, a 46-year-old British hagwon owner. “I rented a house in Daehwa-dong; it was the only house. The roads were there, but it was just empty lots as far as you could see. There was nothing clear to the Han River.”

Ilsan, 2014: “We have everything here, absolutely everything,” says Dairin Frawley, a 35-year-old teacher from Ireland. “My friends who live in Seoul, if they need to (do anything) they have to travel.” Not so here.

82 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

O

ne of the fastest-growing areas in Korea, Ilsan is split into two districts, east and west, in the city of Goyang.

Twenty kilometers north of Seoul, it is dense with housing, shopping, vegetation and foreigners.

In the ‘90s and early 2000s, both of Gomez’s kids were born in Ilsan. When they got to school, they were the only foreigners in the whole system.

“I took (my daughter) on the first day, and the principal came out, shook my hand and gave me flowers,” Gomez says. The father was worried about bullying, but soon found there was “a certain cachet” with having one of his children for a friend, so they ended up quite popular.

Newfoundlander Shawn Morrissey arrived in December 2000. “I could go two or three days and not see another foreigner,” Morrissey says. “Now you can’t walk down the street and not see one.”

Expat Enclaves offers a snapshot of the communities that expats in Korea call home. — Ed.

High times Throughout the 2000s, the foreigners arrived. As upper-middle-class Korean families moved to Ilsan, scores of hagwon (after-school academies) opened up. Officetels were built between Madu and Daehwa stations, at the end of line 3. LaFesta — a now-crucial pedestrian arcade and shopping mall — opened up near Jeongbalsan Station.

“The biggest root of change was LaFesta,” Morrissey says. “It offered a place where people could spend a Saturday afternoon having coffee or something, instead of going to Seoul.”

The Don’t Go bar opened at the far end by the subway station, and became a magnet for foreigners. Though not the first foreign bar in town — the Underground and Adventure Korea preceded it — it was the first in the LaFesta area where most foreigners lived.

The beer was cheap (if flat) and the owner was always willing to play requests. By 2005, there were rumors that he cleared over 1 million won every Friday night, serving the 100 or so drunken foreigners passing through.

“Holy shit,” Morrissey recalls. “It was just wild on a Friday night.”

Moronic behavior became a problem. There were instances of sex in the stairwells, as well as pube burning and weed smoking in the electrical room. An anti-foreigner hate group, the Anti-English Spectrum, got wind of what was going on and famously started stalking foreigners in the area, as well as other communities.

In 2007, the police busted a marijuana ring; the AES claimed it was with their help, but it was more likely brought on by incautiousness on the part of the smokers.

Brazilian-Korean Sid Toledo Lee remembers the bust well. “We were just going down to Itaewon to pick up schwag from the Nigerians and the Ghanaians,” Lee says. “One morning I woke up to a pounding on my door, and I assumed it was a drunk ajeossi. When I opened the door it was plainclothes detectives, with (a friend) in handcuffs. The second I saw that, I knew what it was about. I didn’t resist.”

Five foreigners were fined and deported. Lee got to stay because of his Korean citizenship, and a Canadian was also allowed to stay because he was married. He committed suicide four years later, leaving a wife and two sons.

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COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Present perfect In 2010, Frawley became tired of not being able to answer the question, “What are your hobbies?” in job interviews, and so she began volunteering at Empathy For Life, a privately run dog shelter in Ilsan. Today, foreigners make up a large number of the shelter’s volunteers and adopters, and fundraisers are held for it every month.

One of the hallmarks of this new generation of Ilsanites is its social awareness. Other fundraisers — pub crawls, sports pools, pub quizzes, Oscar pools, Beer Olympics and more — are held regularly and for all sorts of causes: sick children, sick foreigners, the Korean Red Cross, orphanages, families in need and the dog shelter, among others.

Oregon native Allison Lee (no relation to Sid), who has organized the Beer Olympics and pub crawls, attends the monthly quiz for the animal shelter. She also adopted a dog from EFL. “As much alcohol as we have here, we have as much heart, if not more,” Lee says. “Many months there are numerous causes within our little corner, and beyond that we get together, drink together and donate together.”

Looking back on her network, Lee says,

84 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

“I’ve met some of the best people I’ve ever known here.”

The community today is spread out, but the LaFesta–Lake Park area remains the central hub of Ilsan life.

Lake Park is the green space that surrounds the largest artificial lake in Asia. The park around it is a major gathering place for Koreans and foreigners alike, who hold picnics, walk their dogs or jog on the track around the waterfront. Many foreigners live just across the street from it.

Terri Easter, 22 and from Tennessee, just arrived in Ilsan a few months ago. Though she loves Seoul, she prefers Ilsan because “there’s more greenery, you still have the outdoor factor (and there are) the little city parks in your neighborhood — Lake Park.”

She brought her dog from the U.S. and takes it to Lake Park every day. “He’s trained to go outside, so I can’t imagine having him in Seoul, trying to find grass,” Easter says.

Meat Street, on the three blocks north of LaFesta, is a pedestrian arcade with barbecue restaurants downstairs and rows and rows of bars above it. It’s busy every night, but on weekends especially it is rammed shoulder to shoulder with people, often until 3 in the morning. Foreigners gather everywhere,

but particularly in the half dozen bars in and around this street. The most popular are the Cocky Bar, Le Pub and Into’s. Many more have come and gone over the years.

There’s plenty of foreign food as well, which

‘As much alcohol as we have here, we have as much heart, if not more.

Many months there are numerous causes within our little corner and beyond that we get together, drink together and donate together for.

I’ve met some of the best people I’ve ever known here.’ Allison Lee is often not available in other cities outside Seoul. Nick Montella, 25 and from New Jersey, says, “There’s lots of food that’s pretty good: Corner Bistro, they do really good burgers. Royal India, their lunch special is awesome.”

In 2011, expats Mark and Mike Gringo set up Gringos, and have been schlepping authentic burritos all over Ilsan and the rest of Korea ever since.

The good life More foreigners are following Gomez’s example and settling down in Ilsan and having families. Morrissey and his wife have a 2-year-old daughter, and they’re happy to have all they need here.

“I wouldn’t want to be a parent in central Seoul,” Morrissey says. “Ilsan is more spread out, as far as spread out can go in Korea. There are more parks. Lake Park is a great place to bring your kid. ... There (are) all these amusement parks, so there are lots of places to go. They’re accessible and easy to get to, and they’re cheap or free.”

The new One Mount Water and Snow Park and Aquaplanet aquarium are both very popular with families, though it means that the lines on weekends can be excruciating.

‘We’re living Michael Behn, 28, from Massachusetts, in clover here has lived in both Ilsan and Hannam, a city compared to living southeast of Seoul. Comparing the two, he says Ilsan is “very different. Ilsan is com- in Seoul. We’ve got paratively very new, clean, modern and or- a good life in Ilsan. ganized. Hannam, especially the older part I don’t think there’s of the city where I was, is very traditional.”

“Overall, I like Ilsan better,” Behn says. anything bad.’

Mark Gomez “It’s just more comfortable.”

He admits, however, that he’s a bit bothered by the lack of character in Ilsan — it seems to him that Hannam felt more like “the real Korea.”

Montella used to live in Dalian, China. He, too, loves Ilsan, but feels expat life here might be a bit too cushy.

“It’s kind of like a double-edged sword with it being so convenient and easy,” Montella says. “I really liked the challenge of living in China. I kind of miss it here. It’s almost like living in New York.”

Frawley says most her friends have now moved to Haebangchon, but she and her boyfriend have stayed behind. “Parts of me would like to move there, and another part thinks, ‘meh,’” Frawley says. “We have it all.”

Gomez is more enthusiastic. “We’re living in clover here compared to living in Seoul,” Gomez says. “We’ve got a good life in Ilsan. I don’t think there’s anything bad.”

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COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

At home in Korea

Community Korea welcomes expats with a language exchange and built-in social network Story by Emilee Jennings / Photo by Kim Da-un

K

won Young-hun was just an average Korean student looking for an adventure. So he set off for Australia, not realizing how much the experience would change his life. It was his first time leaving Korea and he could barely string an English sentence together, so he memorized some essential phrases like “Sorry,” “Excuse me” and “Can you exchange money?” to get by. Upon his arrival Down Under, he joined a variety of groups to improve his language skills and meet new people.

“I learned English as quickly as possible so I could make some friends,” he says. “Actually, I found the best way to learn English was by having (Australian) friends.”

After returning to Korea, Kwon noticed there had been an influx of expats since he’d left, and he empathized with the difficulties they faced. He says there was limited information in English for the expat community online, so he launched a website to help.

He later expanded the site into a group called Community Korea that kicked off in

86 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

March 2012. It has since become a large network of people who share cultural experiences. The group is open to all nationalities and sees itself as bringing Europeans, North Americans, Asians and many other groups together to exchange languages and share their thoughts about the world.

Kwon says he also wanted to bring some of the friendliness and openness he had witnessed in Australia back to Korea.

“Australians always say hello to strangers on the street and make eye contact,” says Kwon.

“But Korean people don’t do that. I liked it because it was easier to make friends.”

He started things off with a language exchange, so he could meet expats and figure out some of the problems they were having in Korea. He then moved on to giving personal tours to foreigners who had just arrived, in an effort to make them feel more at home. Kwon also accompanied expats on shopping trips to help them purchase certain items, such as cellphones, which can be difficult to buy without Korean language abilities.

His friendly approach has eased the way for numerous people new to the country.

As Tori Palmer from Kansas City explains, “Community Korea was my first true community in Seoul. I met a lot of great friends, people to laugh with and people who were always willing to help me out with whatever I needed.”

The group isn’t just for expats. Koreans are hugely important to the organization, too. Lee Young-gun, originally from Daegu, says, “At (the) language exchange, I made a lot of foreign friends from many different countries. It helped me to improve my English and learn about cultural differences.”

More info j Community Korea hosts language exchange evenings every Thursday in Gangnam. The main languages of the group are Korean, English and Chinese.

Website communitykorea.com, fb.com/communitykorea

Sweet summer Story by Elizabeth Kim / Photos courtesy of Fruit & Vegetable Land

sensations Fruit & Vegetable Land crafts seasonal concoctions that put freshness first

K

im Tae-gyun (Russel) had an idea for a café using only fresh fruits and vegetables, but he knew he couldn’t do it alone. He approached his parents with the concept and they embraced it, deciding to make it a family venture.

They opened the café, Fruit & Vegetable Land, in June near Korea University. Since then it has attracted a steady stream of students and office workers alike, creating a friendly environment and popular meeting place. Local business owners, especially from the Dongdaemun area one bus stop over, often visit the café for a refreshing break.

The café is modeled after popular juice chains in the West, but improves on the idea by using only the freshest ingredients. Its selling point is no doubt the high quality of fruit used in their main items.

Fruit and Vegetable Land’s mission is to help people enjoy a healthy life, and Kim has created a menu to endorse his mission. Before opening the café, he visited several establishments in Seoul to see which beverages were the most sought after by customers and why. He built his menu based on his research and his experience in Canada studying hotel management.

The most popular item on the menu is the fruit ice frappe, or bingsu, a traditional Korean shaved ice dessert, and

there is almost nothing better to beat the summer heat. The café’s bingsu starts with the usual topping of red beans over shaved ice, but finishes with a mountain of fresh fruit. Fruit & Vegetable Land’s take on the local classic has seven kinds of fruit, including mango, strawberry, kiwi and pineapple, making for a refreshing dessert any time of the day.

“The concept of bingsu is almost unheard of by foreigners, because it’s something unique to South Korea,” Kim says. “I thought that foreigners would like the ice frappes if they just had the chance to try one, and I think a visit to our café will convince them.”

For those wanting to grab a drink to go, the same fresh fruits used for the bingsu are also turned into smoothies, and what is immediately noticeable from the first sip is the overwhelming taste of fresh fruit. Kim says no artificial sweeteners are added to the drinks; instead, they use sugar cane and agave syrup.

“Sometimes when I go to other cafés, they use so much sugar in their smoothies that I have to drink water right afterward. We don’t do that here,” Kim says.

“We only use fresh fruit, and we’re always thinking of the next menu item.”

Kim will soon return to Incheon National University to study business administration, but he will continue to develop Fruit & Vegetable Land by expanding the menu’s offerings.

More info j Fruit & Vegetable Land Sinseol Station, line 1 or 2, exit 1 1F, 41-36, Anam-dong 4-ga, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul Phone (02) 929-1351 Website fb.com/FruitandVegetableLand blog.naver.com/ktkws

COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Make ’em laugh

First Seoul International Comedy Competition aims to crown comedic royalty Story by Ian Henderson / Illustration by Wilfred Lee / Photo by Chad Murphy

‘The comedy scene in Korea (specifically Seoul and Busan) is alive and really damn funny. I hope this event helps to showcase their talents. If all goes well, we’ll do it again in 2015.’

Dan Wiberg, event organizer

88 www.groovekorea.com / August 2014

K

orea’s first-ever International Comedy Competition is set to showcase Korea’s burgeoning stand-up scene on Aug. 30 at Bull & Barrel in Itaewon. A regular host for comedy and theatrical productions, the ample space and layout make the popular bar one of the best options for this kind of event.

The contest is limited to 10 performers, selected after an application process held throughout July. The judges’ selections were based on the performers’ bios, performance history and (most importantly) video samples of their stand-up skills. Though entry was open to anyone, it was expected that most performers would likely be from Korea, with possibly one or two from Hong Kong or China.

The competition itself will be divided into three rounds. Round one consists of all 10 performers, who will each have four minutes to show their stuff. The second bout will give the five top comedians five more minutes to woo the crowd. Finally, three finalists will have six minutes to make their final performances shine. Given the multiple-round nature of the competition, each comedian must have several short sets prepared.

Although the competition is not officially associated with Stand Up Seoul, some of the judges may be from the group. The performances will be judged on the following criteria: material, stage presence, delivery, technique, audience response, audience rapport and each judges’ “gut feeling” about the performer.

A combination of judges’ opinions and audience feedback will determine who goes on to the subsequent rounds, with ballots provided to the audience members for voting. The prize for first place is 200,000 won in cash. The runner-up will receive a 50,000 won gift certificate for Bull & Barrel. There will be other prizes and awards for some of the other contestants, to be announced at a later date.

Live comedy has been undergoing a sort of renaissance in the country since Brian Aylward founded Stand Up Seoul in 2009.

Aside from that, numerous open mic nights have sprung up not only in the capital, but in places like Busan and Daegu as well. It was actually from a competition in Daegu that local comedian Dan Wiberg got the idea to hold the upcoming event in Seoul.

He hopes to turn the competition into a yearly event, if all goes well. Given that Wiberg is getting married on the peninsula in the not-too-distant future, he thinks he’ll definitely be in Korea long enough to try to help turn it into an annual institution.

“The comedy scene in Korea (specifically Seoul and Busan) is alive and really damn funny,” he says. “I hope this event helps to showcase their talents. If all goes well, we’ll do it again in 2015.”

More info j First Seoul International Comedy Competition When Aug. 30 at 9:30 p.m.

Where Bull & Barrel in Itaewon, Itaewon Station, line 6, exit 4 Price 7,000 won to help cover performer prizes Email SeoulComedyCompetition@gmail.com Website seoulcomedycompetition.wordpress.com or fb.com/seoulcomedycompetition

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland talks with Dan Wiberg about the event and the comedy scene in Korea.

Check out the podcast at groovekorea.com.

89

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongnogu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdong-gil (Jeongdong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemungu, Seoul

TRAVEL AGENTS Fides Travel (02) 755 5470 • fidestravel.co.kr Prime Travel (02) 6739 3570 Shoe String Travel (02) 333 4151 • shoestring.kr/eng/abo01.htm Soho Travel (02) 322 1713 • sohoholiday.com Top Travel Service (02) 737 4289 • toptravel.co.kr/eng Unique Travel (02) 792 0606

DOMESTIC TOURS Adventure Korea (010) 4242-5536 • adventurekorea.com Discover Korea (02) 398-6571 • discoverkoreatour.com/en

Explore Korea sonyaexplorekorea.com Joy Leisure Service (02) 2307-8642 • joyleisures.com Panmunjom Travel Center (02) 771-5593 • koreadmztour.com Seoul City Tour (02) 774-3345 • seoulcitytour.net Tour DMZ (02) 755-0073 • www.tourdmz.com Travel Pants Korea (010) 9961 5765 • travelpantskorea.com

HOTELS & RESORTS Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpagu, Seoul Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseongro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr Jeju Air 1599-1500 T’way Air 1688-8686

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. www.etonhouseprep.com Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Donggu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul (02) 3015-8500 • 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr www.dulwich-seoul.kr The curriculum from Toddler to IGCSE (ages 2 years to 16 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum enhanced for an international setting.

Jin Air 1600-6200 D ETUR

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnamgu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

PO NS MU

NDO

British Airways (02) 774-5511 Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

AMUSEMENT PARKS

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

FAMILY & KIDS

Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpagu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul

Seoul Intl. School 031-750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do

Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

070-7504-8090

Oriental massage spa in Itaewon at a reasonable price.

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 12pm-9pm

BOOKSTORES

Animal hospitals

What the Book (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul www.cwhospital.com

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES

HEALTH DENTAL CLINICS

UPENNIVY Dental (02) 797-7784 • 300-26 Ichon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Mir Dental (053) 212-1000 • 149-132 Samdeok-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Esarang Dental Clinic (02) 701-2199 • 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Chungdam UPENN Dental (02) 548-7316 • 131-20 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul SKIN CLINICS TengTeng Skin (02) 337-4066 • 10th floor, First avenue Building, Nonhyeon 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul If you have a skin problem, Dr. Julius Jon will take good care of you. English is spoken.

Nova Skin (02) 563-7997 • 2 floor A Tower, 822-1, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051• 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.dryaksan.com

National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, FITNESS Jung-gu, Seoul Reebok Crossfit Sentinel 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays.

(02) 790-0801 • reebokcrossfitsentinel.com National Museum of Modern and

Exxl Fitness Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksamdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, • www.exxl.co.kr Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Body & Seoul 010-6397-2662 • www.seoulmartialarts.com UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

Restaurants

Hair & Joy Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

Hair&Joy

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam Apgujeong Branch

Qunohair

Phone 02.549.0335 www.qunohair.com 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

100% All Natural Ingredients Shave Ice

Jin Donburi (02) 2235 1123 • 103-9 Jeodong 1-ga, Junggu, Seoul The chef here trained in Japan and serves an authentic Japanese-style donburi (donkatsu over rice) at an affordable price. Katsudon goes for 6,000 won.

KOREAN & BBQ

Small Happiness in the Garden (02) 975-3429 • 28-3 Jeodong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

Dr. Oh’s King-size Donkatsu / O Baksane Donkatsu (02) 3673 5730 • 131-32 Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul This place serves donkatsu the size of a car wheel and this restaurant dares you to finish it in one sitting.

Ondal (02) 450-4518 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Looking to impress a date or a business partner? Head to the premier traditional Korean restaurant in Seoul.

Myeongdong Donkatsu (02) 776 5300 • 59-13 Myeong-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul This is the most popular and oldest Japanese-style donkatsu restaurant in Myeong-dong. Try the wasabi.

Hadongkwan (02) 776-5656 • 10-4 Myungdong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul This place simply has the best gomtang (beef soup) in Seoul.

Namsan Donkatsu (02) 777-7929 • 49-24 Namsandong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Since 1992, this casual Korean-style donkatsu restaurant has been a favorite of Namsan hikers and taxi drivers.

Two Plus (02) 515 5712 • B1 fl. 532-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Served here is a high-quality beef loin at a reasonable price.

Tosokchon (Samgyetang) (02) 737 7444 • 85-1 Chebu-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul A popular Korean-style chicken soup with ginseng is popular at this place. Former presidents enjoyed this restaurant. A soup costs just 15,000 won.

Battered Sole (02) 322-8101 • 52-23 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Battered Sole is a relative newcomer, but they serve up some of the best fish and chips in Korea. This is the real deal.

Simply India (02) 744 6333• 1-79 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul VEGETARIAN

Pho Hoa (02) 792-8866 • 737-4, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Sanchon (02) 735 0312 • 14 Gwanghun-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul www.sanchon.com

Grill5taco (02) 515-5549 • 519-13 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

5mins from Korea Univ.

INTERNATIONAL

THAI & VIETNAMESE

Dos Tacos (Gangnam) (02) 593-5904 • 104 Dessian Luv, 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul The best and largest taco franchise in Korea; try out their shrimp potato burrito.

Coffee

DONKATSU

Jang Sa Rang (02) 546-9994 • 624-47 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul The menu at this traditional Korean restaurant ranges from classic kimchi pancakes and stone pot rice to an array of meats and veggies.

MEXICAN & TEX-MEX

Sala d

서울시 성북구 안암동4가 41-36 세화빌딩1층

Jo’s Basket Grill & Dining (02) 744-0701 • 31-37 Dongsoong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Pizza Hill (02) 450-4699 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjingu, Seoul The first restaurant to serve pizza in Korea.

Toast

1F, 41-36, Anam-dong 4-ga, Seongbuk-gu

JAPANESE

ITALIAN & FRENCH

Fresh Squeezes Juices Smoothies

02.929.1351,

AMERICAN & BRUNCH

Veggie Holic 070 4114 0458 • 204-59 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul www.veggieholic.co.kr March Rabbit (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul Daegu 5th Lounge (053) 764-3579 • 207-10 Doosan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu This fabulous lounge does just about everything right. If you’re in search of space for private parties, this is the place.

G’day (American & Brunch) (053) 746-1217 • 980-9 Suseongdong 4-ga, Suseong-gu, Daegu This Aussie brunch cafe serves the best brunch in Daegu at the best price. www.facebook.com/CafeGday

Night clubS The Paris (Italian & French) (053) 763-8998 • 207-10 Doosan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu This place offers fine dining in one of the few authentic French restaurants in town.

Dos Tacos (Mexican & Tex-Mex) (053) 255-4885 • 34-4 Dongsung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Pan Asia (International) (053) 287-7940 • 2 fl., 21-9 Samdeok-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu South St. (American) (053) 471-7867 • 664-10 Bongdeok 3-dong, Nam-gu, Daegu Bagel Doctor (Café) (053) 421-6636 • Samdeokdong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Miyako (Japanese) (053) 761-5555 • 402-5 Sang-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Beyond Factory (Italian/café) (053) 255-7614 • 40-63 Daebong-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu Italy & Italy (Italian / French) (053) 423- 5122 • 22-2, Samdeok-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu

La Luce (European) (053) 255-7614 • 40-63 Daebong-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu

The Pho (Vietnamese) (051) 256-8055 • Saeabusan town, Sinchangdong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Busan

Ariana Boccaccio Hotel Brau (Buffet) (051) 767-7913 • 200-1, Dusan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu

The Grill On The Beach (Pub) (051) 731-9799 • B1 fl. Sea star bldg., 1417-2 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan This submarine-themed pub carries international beer and a wide selection of wine.

Thursday Party (Bar) 21-23 Samdeok-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Busan Wolfhound (Haeundae, Busan) (051) 746-7913 • 1359 Woo 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Rock N Roll (Bar) • 2 fl, 56-5, Daeyeon 3-dong, Nam-gu, Busan Wolfhound (Irish Pub) (051) 746-7913 • 2 fl, 1359, U 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Fuzzy Navel (Mexican Pub) (051) 754- 6349 • 178-13, Millak-dong, Suyeong-gu, Busan Farmer’s Hamburger (American) (051) 244-5706 • 35-1 Daechungdong 2-ga, Junggu, Busan

Paniere (Café) (051) 817-8212 • 225-1 Bujeon-dong, Jin-gu, Busan The European-style brunch restaurant/café serves fresh fruit juice and sandwiches.

DRINKS BEER AND COCKTAILS Big Rock (02) 539-6650 • B1 818-8, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul This place imports premium beer from Alberta. Its comfortable atmosphere and huge space is perfect for just about every occasion.

Once in a Blue Moon (02) 549. 5490 • 85-1 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A live jazz club Seoul that hosts renowned musicians from Korea and around the world.

Octagon 175-2 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cocoon 364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Eden

Ritz Carlton 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul Elune

1408-5 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Mass 1306-8 Seocho 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

Massage, Spa & Beauty Lucy Hair (02) 325-2225 • 2nd floor, 30-10, Chandcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Look your best effortlessly with the help of Lucy. Her internationally trained hair stylists treat your locks with the best hair products in a modern and cozy environment.

94

COMICS

Games

EASy

Crossword - Sudoku

Medium

Across 1. Priestly vestments 5. Peeve 9. Andean shrub 13. Hawaiian feast 14 .Better equipped 16. Mideast resident 17. Wrestling throw 19. Use a stopwatch 20. Capital of Texas 21. Foreshadowed 23. Norway’s patron saint 25. Actor Estevez 26. ___ Haute, Ind.

29. Followed, as advice 31. Graph lines 32. Cause of inflation?

33. Aspect 36. Filmmaker Craven 37. Orchestra section 39. It’s spoken in Vientiane 40. Char 42. A Stooge 43. Film segment 44. Siren 46. Singer Crystal 47. Fuel gas

48. Tatum’s pa 50. Ascorbic acid 52. Somewhat elderly 56. Aperture 57. Star of “Un homme et une femme” 59. Woodwind instrument 60. Scandinavian 61. Curse 62. Water lily habitat 63. Penury 64. “Time’s Arrow” author

18. Khartoum’s river 22. Factions 24. Equitable 26. Marbles 27. Corporate VIP 28. Denouement 30. Felony 32. Demosthenes, e.g.

34. Marsh bird 35. Chump 37. Buzz off 38. Film genre

41. Went around 43. Shaw play 45. “Imagine” singer 46. Big celebration 47. Baggins the hobbit 49. On the team?

50. Initials on a brandy bottle 51. Nucleus 53. Mosque official 54. Freight hauler 55. Feathered layers 58. Application

HArd

Down 1. ___ Romeo 2. Humdinger 3. Alcoves 4. Swains 5. ___ Carta 6. PC maker 7. Agitated state 8 Polecat kin 9. Inventory 10. In the first place 11. Carved pictorial gem 12. All tucked in 15. Appear again

Evil

Crossword Medium

HARD

EVIL

July AnswerS

Easy

Horoscopes Aries

August 2014

March 20 - April 20

Don’t make waves at work this month. Keep your attention focused on your own duties and leave others to their work. Your opinion will not be appreciated by co-workers right now. Loved ones need your help with plans. Make time for them even though it will interfere with your social life.

Taurus

April 21 - May 21

Your stubborn nature presents problems at work this month. You only see one way to solve a problem, but no one else shares your point of view. Don’t alienate yourself from your co-workers. A close friend turns to you for advice. Don’t let your personal feelings stop you from being objective.

Gemini

May 22 - June 21

Be sensitive to other people’s needs at the office this month. No one is as strong as you when it comes to constructive criticism from superiors. Help co-workers see the positive side of things. A close friend wants to take you out; don’t refuse.

Cancer

June 22 - July 22

It’s slow at work this month, which is OK. It gives you time to finish up those little things that always get pushed aside. A loved one needs a lot of your attention this month; give it to him or her. Not only will it help them out, but it will bring the two of you closer together.

Virgo

August 24 - September 23

Libra

September 24 - October 23

Don’t stand in a co-worker’s way at work early on in the month.

While you are hoping for all of the attention, it is not yet your turn to shine. Don’t worry, though — your time will come. Loved ones look to you for support this month. Don’t turn your back on them.

Capricorn and Leo play important roles.

You are the star at work early on in the month, but don’t get overconfident; the end of the month will change things. You will be out of the loop when it comes to decision making. As for your love life, it is in full swing. Your phone keeps ringing and you don’t know whom to date first.

Scorpio

October 24 - November 22

Don’t be wishy-washy when it comes to a managerial decision at work. Stand up for what you think is right, even if it may hurt a co-worker. Think of what’s best for the company. You meet an interesting person during the middle of the month. Ask him or her out.

Sagittarius

November 23 - December 21

You’re on cloud nine this month. Work is going well and your superiors are happy with your efforts. That special someone finally makes his or her move. Now’s your chance to turn on the charm and work toward a lasting relationship.

Capricorn

December 22 - January 19

Don’t get distracted at work this month. Co-workers try to get you involved in their minor conflicts, but stay focused on the job at hand.

It’s the only way to get ahead in the workplace. Turn to a loved one for help when making an important personal decision.

Leo

Aquarius

July 23 - August 23

You become your manager’s confidant at work this month. You learn about decisions that will affect your co-workers, but you have to keep them quiet. While this may be difficult, it will lead to rewards from the higher-ups. That special someone surprises you with a romantic dinner. Revel in the attention.

January 20 - February 18

After a few hectic weeks, work finally takes a turn for the better.

You make all the right moves and your manager notices. Keep up the good work. As for your love life, things aren’t as great. You have a fight with that special someone, but don’t get discouraged.

Everything will work out.

Pisces

February 19 - March 19

Make your mark this month. Whether it’s work or play, you’ll shine.

Co-workers and friends alike will be impressed with your abilities; you’re sure to get noticed. A loved one calls on you for help. Give him or her sound advice. Capricorn plays an important role.

Column by Dr. Lim-gwon Kang

The Wellness of Your Senior dog

W

hen is a dog truly senior?

The answer is that it happens at a different time for every animal. Individuals and body systems age differently, and this is especially true in canines due to significant size differences and the varying aging rates among breeds. However, most dogs become senior at 7 to 10 years of age, and most large- and giant-breed dogs become seniors earlier than their small-breed counterparts.

Dogs age much more rapidly than people do. Therefore, they may appear healthy for a long time and then seem to become ill quite suddenly. As dogs grow older, their bodies become less able to cope with physical or environmental stress. Their immune systems become weaker, and they are more prone to developing certain diseases or conditions, including cancer, cardiovascular diseases, intestinal problems, deafness, dental disease, diabetes mellitus, kidney disease, liver disease, osteoarthritis and vision problems.

This is why regular senior wellness visits with your veterinarian are important for the long-term health of your dog.

Most experts agree that healthy sen-

ior dogs should see their veterinarians every six months, with the visits focusing on monitoring changes in the patient’s history and physical exam, and pursuing diagnostics as necessary. It is recommended that your dog gets a checkup at least once a year.

The key to the wellness exam in all our animal patients — but especially those that are senior/geriatric — is to provide an early diagnosis, enable close monitoring and initiate treatment as necessary for pathological conditions that develop.

The minimum annual checkup recommended for older dogs includes a CBC (complete blood count), a biochemistry panel, urinalysis and other diagnostic testing, which can be individualized for each patient.

You can help your veterinarian by keeping a close eye on your dog between exams. If you notice any unusual signs, don’t wait for your regularly scheduled checkup to see your veterinarian: Call right away. Take steps to ensure your dog’s comfort, such as making sure that food and water bowls are easily accessible to your old friend, and giving him or her plenty of attention and affection.

Korea Animal Transport (KAT) & Chungwha Animal Hospital (02) 792-7602 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Itaewon Station Exit 4

Exit 3

chungwha77@gmail.com

j www.cwhospital.com

Hospital hours Mon - Sat : 9 a.m.-8 p.m.

The Pet Hotel M

Grooming hours Mon - Sat : 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

For reservations, call (02) 794-9967.

(02) 797-3040 pethotelm@gmail.com

j www.thepethotelm.com Chungwha Apt.

Chungwha Animal Hospital

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